Winepress - December 2019 by Winepress Magazine

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF WINE MARLBOROUGH

ISSUE NO. 300 / DECEMBER 2019

CELLAR DOORS

BRIGHT IDEAS

wine-marlborough.co.nz

WILLIE CROSSE

GREENING MARLBOROUGH

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Marlborough NZ

this issue... REGULARS

FEATURES

3 4

6 26 28 30 32 34 36

Editorial - Sophie Preece

Tasman Crop Met Report - Rob Agnew Pioneer - Willie Crosse

Industry News Wine Happenings

Cover: The past 30 years in the wine industry have been a “bloody wonderful ride”, says Willie Crosse, who is featured in the Pioneer series (pg 26) and the Forgotten Corners story on Greening Marlborough. Photo by Jim Tannock

In summer months, Jack’s Raw Bar tempts many to linger at the edge of Cloudy Bay’s lawns, supping on wine and slurping down oysters in the shade of the winery’s iconic gum trees. It’s perhaps little wonder the beautiful spot won Marlborough Cellar Door of the Year last month.

14 BRIght Ideas

Generation Y-ine - Blair Macdonald Biosecurity Watch - Sophie Badland

10 Cellar Champs

From the Board - Tom Trolove and Marcus Pickens

Forgotten Corners Marlborough Landscape Group

Len Ibbotson is working to ensure science is in sync with industry, in his new role at the Bragato Research Institute (BRI).

28 Greening Marlborough

The Marlborough Landscape Group is planting the seed for a new biodiversity programme, to help protect the ecology and reputation of the Wairau Plain and beyond. “We really want to show growers how easily they could create a more diverse landscape, without impacting on their production,” says Willie Crosse.

Winepress December 2019 / 1

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General Manager: Marcus Pickens 03 577 9299 marcus@wine-marlborough.co.nz Editor: Sophie Preece 027 308 4455 sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz Advertising: Harriet Wadworth 03 577 9299 harriet@wine-marlborough.co.nz Wine Marlborough Board: Ben Ensor ben.lisa@clear.net.nz Beth Forrest Beth@forrest.co.nz Callum Linklater callum@csviticulture.co.nz Jack Glover jack.glover@accolade-wines.co.nz Kirsty Harkness kirsty@mountbase.co.nz Nick Entwistle nick@wairauriverwines.com Stuart Dudley (Deputy Chair) stuartd@villamaria.co.nz Tom Trolove (Chair) tom.trolove@framingham.co.nz Tracy Johnston Tracy@dayvinleigh.co.nz

From the Editor Marlburians are seriously spoilt for choice when it comes to summer-season hospitality. It can be a tough decision whether to whisk relatives off to Wairau River or Wither Hills for lunch in the sun, and whether to take friends to Rockferry or Saint Clair’s Vineyard Kitchen to dine amid the vines. They’re all on my summer to-do list, but first up I’ll be hitting Jack’s Raw Bar at Cloudy Bay, which opens for the summer months. There I’ll swing in an egg chair, playing like a tourist, before sampling some of the region’s best produce with some of its most iconic wines. Cloudy Bay wowed the secret shopper who visited for the Wine Marlborough Cellar Door of the Year Awards - in fact, the words “wow, wow, wow”, were part of their summation - and it’s pretty easy to see how they took top spot. The staff are attentive, the setting sublime and Jack’s Raw Bar is something you’d expect to see in Auckland and Melbourne. On page 10 we talk to Nicky Hewett about the company’s new approach to cellar door operations, aimed at making every single customer a “brand ambassador”. There are dozens of other gorgeous cellar doors to visit, from big players like Sophie Preece Yealands to tiny operators like Bladen. Both of those have been given a big tick from the secret shoppers, who awarded the Personality of the Year award to Blair Macdonald at Bladen and Nina Huria-Bryce from Yealands. Blair is this month’s Generation Y-ine story, and a great example of the role family-led businesses play in Marlborough’s increasingly corporate wine industry. “My first day of internship was while I was still wearing a pair of nappies,” he says on page 30. Our cellar door and restaurants give our provincial paradise a sophisticated edge that makes others wish they could live here. They draw tourists in throngs, many on their Sauvignon Blanc “pilgrimage”, and boost far more than the wine industry’s fortunes. I plan to show my appreciation this summer, one vineyard lunch at a time.

“I plan to show my appreciation this summer, one vineyard lunch at a time. ”

Jamie Marfell Jamie.Marfell@pernod-ricard.com

Printed by: Blenheim Print Ltd 03 578 1322

SOPHIE PREECE

Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.

Winepress December 2019 / 3

PROTECT

From the Chair & General Manager TOM TROLOVE & MARCUS PICKENS

LAST YEAR we reported on the Marlborough Winegrowers Strategic Plan through to 2021, which was an important milestone for the organisation and gave us renewed assessment of our priorities and goals for the board and Wine Marlborough team to work towards. Our main goal is to make Marlborough the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest wine region. We have set the bar as high as we can and, as a board, we are pleased with the progress towards our aims. The Wine Marlborough team are held to account through their 90 day planning cycles and a new reporting format at board meetings, which focuses on progress against our strategic goals. We defined our purpose as proudly standing up for, and building, the reputation of Marlboroughâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine region. This statement is the backbone of the organisation. The strong culture we have as a board and team has been gently shaped to be more prepared to stand up and be courageous, and demonstrate our purpose and call out the good and the bad if ever it should occur. We feel the Marlborough Winegrowers board is very reflective of the industry at large today. It is a relatively young board, which reflects the changes across the industry, and has three female directors, improving its gender diversity. We hold at least six board meetings per year, as well as additional meetings for the finances 4 / Winepress December 2019

and marketing functions. The board has also recently decided to retain the split of representation Tom Trolove, MWG Chair. Photo by Jim Tannock of five grape grower representatives and five wine company The Marlborough Wine Show has representatives. The board believes been a wonderful acquisition for the this serves your interests best. While organisation. Having recently delivered there are very few, if any, votes based our second show, we are pushing on the member groups, it is the balance through with a number of innovations of representation and views that and changes, including a new naming matters to us in the board room and, sponsor in QuayConnect. We have we believe, to our membership. We feel doubled down on our freshening up that both vital groupings deserve equal of the awards event, which is now representation at the board table. the Wine Marlborough Long Lunch Our trading company, Wine Celebration. We are committed to Marlborough Limited, is 100% owned bringing the industry together to by Marlborough Winegrowers celebrate and connect and are thrilled Association Incorporated and is tasked with the support and endorsement the with implementing our Strategic Plan industry has given us. You may know through General Manager, Marcus we auction off the remaining wine that Pickens. all entrants donate and we have now The Wine Marlborough team established a Future Leaders fund to has built and delivered a work plan support members of the industry in that aligns all our efforts into six key their pursuit of future learning and challenges: leadership opportunities. Applications 1. Protect Marlboroughâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wine are open and enquiries about the brand; purpose should be made to general 2. Grow our member engagement; manager, Marcus Pickens. 3. Relentlessly share the The organisation was deeply Marlborough Wine Story; involved in the delivery of the 4. Create and sustain workforce outstanding International Sauvignon availability; Blanc Celebration held here in late 5. Generate sustainable funding; January 2020. Wine Marlborough 6. Achieve sector wide clarity on agreed to be a principal sponsor, roles and responsibilities. given the importance of Sauvignon We have made meaningful progress on Blanc to this industry, with a $25,000 a number of these activities, and I will investment. We also agreed to support touch on a few important initiatives. the event with a significant amount of

PROTECT

in-kind staff time, which was of substantial assistance to the event, given our expertise in event management and delivery. The celebration hosted 82 international visitors and had up to 460 people attending some of the evening events. The event showcased our outstanding natural environment and profiled a large number of winery locations, restaurants and venues over the three days the guests were here, and we hope it has a lasting positive benefit to all our members. A new concept was introduced to welcome sommeliers to the region via the New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) Sommit, and we hosted two separate groups in 2018 and another in 2019. We designed a programme called Bach Hop, showcasing the Marlborough Sounds and welcoming visitors into our backyard to show off another asset for Marlborough. The feedback we receive from the groups is great - they love going into hosts’ baches and playing at being a real Kiwi for the day, while discovering more about our wines through structured tastings, conversations and interactions with other groups throughout their time here. The organisation’s objective of ‘relentlessly sharing the Marlborough wine story’ comes to the fore with these previous examples. Alongside this, core activities such as those listed below are of high importance to us: • The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival • Sauvignon Blanc Day • Regional Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year • Wine Marlborough Silver Secateurs • Marlborough Cellar Door of the Year • Bayer Young Viticulturalist of the Year • Winepress Magazine Wine Marlborough also prioritises effort into the advocacy area, with the past year demanding an exceptional focus. Most of the work is in the areas

of ‘protect our members’ interests’ and/or ‘create and sustain workforce availability’. Water has been a priority area, and our key target in the Proposed Marlborough Environment Plan. The board decided to allocate significant resources to this to ensure our position of aligning with the Marlborough District Council in requesting status quo on the river trigger levels for surface irrigation. Advocacy manager Vance Kerslake led the submission process with the general manager. We engaged experts to assist our position. WSP-Opus did a sensitivity analysis on low flow trigger levels on both the Awatere and Wairau rivers, and The AgriBusiness Group presented an economic impact report on various low flow levels. We also engaged Pattle Delamore Partners to present on instream ecology and were ably represented by Steve Wilkes of Wilkes RM and Quentin Davies of Gascoigne

We feel members trust us to get the balance right Wicks Lawyers. We await the findings of the hearings panel and hope these are favourable to our member group, but will evaluate any next steps once we have had a chance to review the decision. Recently, the Healthy Waterways and Highly Productive Land consultations have been made, this time with NZW rightly taking the lead with our submission supporting theirs. The number of consultations from Government has reached an almost impossible level and we have often had overlapping deadlines and consultations on the go. We feel members trust us to get the balance right, but of course always welcome direct input, feedback and individual

submissions by members, which most often are the most powerful of all. The organisation is a strong supporter of the various regional groups such as Appellation Marlborough Wine, Mana, Organic Winegrowers New Zealand and Méthode Marlborough, all trying to push their collective messages to consumers and gatekeepers. We involve and support them wherever we can, as we would with other interest groups that align with our purpose and have member support. This past year we have worked hard to use our strategic plan to clarify our roles and responsibilities with NZW, given the increasing expansion of Marlborough and also the number of staff NZW have here. We have developed a matrix highlighting which organisation leads activities and which one supports those activities. This has been presented to NZW and agreed on, but will be refined and expanded as required to aid even more clarity. Funding is always a key driver, and the NZW Levy return to us is vital. We believe that Marlborough Winegrowers delivers outstanding value for our members. We deliver world-class activities on a shoestring and are accountable for every dollar spent. We have put it to NZW that our efficient delivery of service and activity should be rewarded by further funding, to further improve what we can do for you. The team are united in their purpose and clear on who we serve - our members. We are all proud to do so, while striving for Marlborough to be the greatest wine region in the world. Thank you for the opportunity to lead this organisation and represent you. Tom Trolove Chair, Marlborough Winegrowers Association Board Marcus Pickens General manager, Wine Marlborough

Winepress December 2019 / 5

MET REPORT Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – November 2019

Air Temperature

November November 2019 November Period November 2019 compared to LTA LTA of LTA 2018 GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min1 201.9 139% 145.4 (1996-2018) 152.3 Month – Mean2 197.3 135% 146.3 (1996-2018) 155.7 Growing Degree Days Total Jul - Nov 19 – Max/Min 374.7 % 334.2 (1996-2018) 358.1 Jul - Nov 19 – Mean 441.0 % 386.5 (1996-2018) 408.2 Mean Maximum (°C) 22.2 +2.3°C 19.9 (1986-2018) 19.9 Mean Minimum (°C) 11.2 +1.7°C 9.5 (1986-2018) 10.3 Mean Temp (°C) 16.7 +2.0°C 14.7 (1986-2018) 15.1 Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0 - 0.52 (1986-2018) 1 Air Frosts (0.0°C) 0 Equal 0.0 (1986-2018) 0 Sunshine hours 272.8 113% 240.4 (1986-2018) 219.4 Sunshine hours – lowest 158.9 1985 Sunshine hours – highest 322.5 1997 Sunshine hours total 2019 2526.7 112% 2246.0 (1986-2018) 2289.6 Rainfall (mm) 42.6 85% 49.9 (1986-2018) 47.3 Rainfall (mm) – lowest 4.6 1930 Rainfall (mm) – highest 154.6 1999 Rainfall total (mm) 2019 569.8 96% 594.5 (1986-2018) 756.0 Evapotranspiration – mm 134.0 109% 122.5 (1996-2018) 109.1 Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 255.9 86% 298.9 (1996-2018) 245.0 Mean soil temp – 10cm 16.0 +1.0°C 15.0 (1986-2018) 15.3 Mean soil temp – 30cm 17.2 +0.6°C 16.6 (1986-2018) 16.9 1GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures 2GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures

November 2019 recorded a mean temperature of 16.7°C, 2.0°C above the long-term average (LTA) temperature for November of 14.7°C. Every week during November recorded above average mean maximum, mean minimum and mean temperatures (Table 2). The highest maximum air temperature of 30.8°C was recorded on 26 November. The lowest minimum air temperature of 4.8°C was recorded on 21 November. The coldest minimum grass temperature of 1.1°C was recorded on 25 November. November 2019 is the second warmest on record for the 88 years 1932 – 2019 (Figure 1). The warmest on record is November 1982 with a mean temperature of 16.9°C. Of the 20 years 2000 to 2019 the November mean temperature has only been below average in four of those 20 years. The red trend line in Figure 1 indicates that Novembers mean temperature has warmed by 0.641°C over the course of 88 years from 1932 (14.344°C) to 2019 (14.985°C).

November 2019 recorded a well above average mean temperature, well above average sunshine hours, well below average wind-run and slightly below average rainfall.

Looking back on past November daily maximum temperature records (1947-2019), the maximum temperature of 30.8°C in November 2019 is only

Table 2: Weekly weather data during November 2019 1st - 7th 8th - 14th 15th - 21st 22nd - 28th 29th – 30th (2 days) 1st – 30th November 2019 November LTA (1986 – 2018) LTA – Long Term Average 6 / Winepress December 2019

Mean Max Mean Min Mean (°C) (°C) (°C) Deviation 22.6 10.5 16.5 (+1.8) 20.1 12.8 16.4 (+1.7) 20.8 10.5 15.6 (+0.9) 25.3 11.0 18.2 (+3.5) 23.1 11.7 17.4 (+2.7) 22.2 11.2 16.7 (+2.0) (+2.3) (+1.7) 19.9 9.5 14.7

Figure 1: Average November temperatures for Blenheim (19322019)

Rainfall (mm) 0.4 39.2 3.0 0.0 0.0 42.6 (85%) 49.9

Sunshine (hours) 63.2 45.0 62.5 80.7 21.4 272.8 (113%) 240.4

the second time that Blenheim has exceeded 30°C during November since 1947. The only other year to have exceeded 30°C during November is 1961. It looks as if 2019 is headed for Blenheim’s hottest year on record (1932-2019). The only way that this will not occur is if December’s mean temperature is at least 0.3°C below the long-term average. Growing degree days Figure 2: Normalized growing degree days for Blenheim: days

above (+) or below (-) the long-term average (1990-2018) for the period 1 September to 31 December Up until the start of November 2019 the GDD line for the 2019/20 season was well below the lines for the 2013/14, 2017/18 and 2018/19 seasons (Figure 2). However, with the well above average temperatures during most of November 2019 the GDD deviation line climbed rapidly throughout the month. November 2019 recorded 201.9 GDD or 139% of the LTA. Even the very warm early part of the 2013/14 season only recorded 177.1 GDD during November. It will

be interesting to see if the well above average temperatures continue during December 2019. If they do then we could expect the GDD line to follow a similar course to the 2017/18 line. At the beginning of December 2019 the temperature predictions from NIWA for the top of the South Island are: 50% chance of above average, 35% chance of average, 15% chance of below average. So the chances of above average temperatures being sustained over the three summer months are fairly high. Interestingly the predictions at the beginning of the 2018/19 summer were: 45% chance of above average, 40% chance of average, 15% chance of below average, and last summer turned out to be a stunner temperature wise. Flowering of grapes in 2019 The outcome of the very warm November temperatures has meant that the flowering of grapes in Marlborough in 2019 is quite a bit earlier than was anticipated soon after budburst in late September / early October. If temperatures in December 2019 and January 2020 are above average then it is highly likely that date of 8°Brix (50% véraison) will be quite a lot earlier than normal.

Winepress December 2019 / 7

Sunshine November 2019 recorded 272.8 hours sunshine, 113% of the LTA. Total sunshine for the 11 months January to November 2019 is 2526.7 hours; 112% of the long-term average of 2246 hours. At the end of November Blenheim is on-track to record its second sunniest year on record (1930-2019). Or if December 2019 records well above average sunshine hours the annual total could surpass the highest total, recorded in 2015. Rainfall November 2019 recorded 42.6 mm rain, 85% of the LTA. Total rainfall for the 11 months January to November 2019 was 569.8 mm; 96% of the longterm average of 594.5 mm. January to November 2018 recorded 756 mm; i.e.186.2 mm higher than Jan-Nov 2019. Total rainfall for the three months of spring 2019 (Sep-Nov) was 134.0 mm or 83% of the long-term average. Spring 2018 recorded almost the same rainfall with 132.6 mm. Spring 2017 only recorded 98.6 mm; 61% of the LTA. Soil Moisture Shallow soil moisture (0 to 35 cm depth) at the Grovetown Park weather station on 1 November 2019 was 22.4%. This was well below the average value at the start of November (2003 to 2018) of 27.5%. Almost no rainfall in the first eight days of November saw the

shallow soil moisture drop to 19% by the 8th. However, 33.6 mm rainfall was recorded from the 9 to 11 November. This boosted moisture in the topsoil from 19% on the 8th up to 27.4% on 12th November. A further 8.6 mm rain from 12 to 19 November helped the topsoil moisture to stay reasonably steady. However, with little further rain from 18 to 30 November the moisture in the topsoil fell fairly rapidly from 27.4% to 17.8%. While moisture in the topsoil in Marlborough during November 2019 was below average it was not as low as in years that have experienced low rainfall in November; e.g. November 2017 recorded only 2.8 mm rain and by the end of the month the topsoil was at 15.2% moisture, which is bone dry. Wind Run Average daily wind-run during November 2019 was 255.9 km or 86% of the LTA wind-run for November. Some of you will remember a number of windy days during the month. However, there were only nine days during the month with above average daily wind-run, whereas 21 days recorded below average daily windrun. The windiest day of the month was Saturday 16 November, with total wind-run of 468 km and average wind speed of 19.5 km/hr. The calmest day of the month was Monday 4 November, with total wind run of 135 km and average wind speed of 5.6 km/

hr. 2019 is the fourth year in a row that November has recorded below average wind-run. The last year to have recorded above average daily wind-run across the whole calendar year was 2007; i.e. Blenheim is heading for its 12th straight year in a row with below average wind run. Evapotranspiration (ET) Total Evapotranspiration for November was 134.0 mm, or 109% of the longterm average. Water Deficit (rainfall minus evapotranspiration) Total water deficit for November was 42.6 mm â&#x20AC;&#x201C;134.0 mm = -91.4 mm; which is -14.1 mm lower than the average of -77.3. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research / Marlborough Research Centre

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CELEBRATE

Destination Seller Cloudy Bay redefines the cellar door experience SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN NICKY Hewett started work at the Cloudy Bay cellar door 10 years ago, tastings were free and the queue could be three to four people deep on a busy day. There were no food options, staff were harried in the busy summer season, and visitors left with little impression of the brand and its stories. The experience these days couldn’t be more different, with tiered tastings charged at different price points, including library and rare wines at the top end. Jack’s Raw Bar tempts many to linger at the edge of the lawn over summer months, supping on wine and slurping down oysters in the shade of Cloudy Bay’s iconic gum trees. Others dangle in egg chairs hanging from

Nicky Hewett and Joyce Tang

10 / Winepress December 2019

those trees, and soak up the view to the Richmond Range, reflected on Cloudy Bay’s label. “We are giving people more Joyce Tang at the Cloudy Bay cellar door options,” says Nicky, customer with well-trained and professional experience manager at the Cloudy staff, who understand the wines Bay cellar door, which won Wine and stories of Cloudy Bay and also Marlborough Cellar Door of the Year last month. “It regulates the flow a little Marlborough.” Cloudy Bay didn’t stop at the bit, and you definitely get more people counter, but instead pushed their who are seriously interested in tasting “cellar door experience” to the Cloudy Bay wine.” vineyard, the winery, The Shack Offering a range of different (Cloudy Bay’s stylish accommodation), tastings was part of ensuring a better and the Marlborough Sounds. experience for customers, many of Personalised vineyard tours roll out whom are on their “pilgrimage” to in a refurbished 1985 Land Rover, Cloudy Bay, says Nicky. “We also named Dave the Defender after David wanted to staff our cellar door well,

CELEBRATE

Hohnen, who founded Cloudy Bay that year. There are tailored tastings with a “Cloudy Bay ambassador”, “epicurean experiences”, with wine pairings, a private chef and wait staff. There are helicopter tours, “Forage” explorations of the region, including a private launch cruise, and the chance to sail through the Marlborough Sounds on a beautiful yacht, a glass of wine in hand. The menu of extraordinary experiences makes the Cloudy Bay experience a “trade ready” tourism offering, says Nicky. “We have commissionable product, we are part of the Marlborough Trade Marketing Team, and we are starting to take our tourism product internationally.” In return, visitor are even more determined to visit, she says, talking of people who fly to Marlborough for the day just to visit Cloudy Bay. Cellar door manager Joyce Tang says the cellar door is “unique” in its history and its offering, but it does far

“We have to work together to make Marlborough shine.” Joyce Tang more than tell its own stories. The staff all promote the wider Marlborough brand, and give tips on other great spots to visit, including cellar doors, she says. “We have to work together to make Marlborough shine.” Making guests feel at home is key to the experience, and they have cellar door staff who speak French, Dutch, German and Mandarin Chinese, says Joyce. This summer she has created a Mandarin Chinese tasting menu, “and we are working on more and more things like that”.

Nicky says in the past, cellar doors “were a little bit under the radar” when it came to the business of wine, and not recognised for the impact they had on the brand. However, there’s now recognition that people come with an expectation and a love of Cloudy Bay. “Some people are quite emotional when they come in. They want to share their Cloudy Bay stories and learn more about our wines and history,” she says. “We want to make sure every single customer becomes a brand ambassador, for our wine and the region.”

Winepress December 2019 / 11

CELEBRATE

Success Story New Zealand Winemaker of the Year SOPHIE PREECE

HAMISH CLARK solved hundreds of crimes before he began winemaking, cracking Britain’s cold cases one DNA swab at a time. Saint Clair Family Estate’s senior winemaker - who was named New Zealand Winemaker of the Year 2019 at the New Zealand International Wine Show - spent the late 1990s working for the Home Office in the United Kingdom, in a lab processing genetic samples from people who had been arrested. The Criminal Justice Bill that enabled that was new, and so was the technology, he says, two decades on. The lab team saw numbers, not names, but received reports on the criminals subsequently caught because of the DNA information. “Obviously the perks in the wine industry are better, but we solved some incredible crimes.” His stint as a genetic ‘detective’ ended when his foreign passport proved a barrier to gaining a more senior position. “I was pretty upset at the time, but their loss, my gain, because I’m so glad to have come back home.” When he’d left Blenheim in 1993, in order to study marine biology as a post graduate diploma at Otago University, “it was a place I never thought I would come back to”, he says, recalling a “conservative and retiring town”. But when he returned in 2001, he found a welcome “electricity” in the region, with demand for Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, driving a massive surge in plantings, while wine companies “expanded like crazy”, he says. “It was exciting.” His microbiology training got his foot in the door at Marlborough Valley Cellars, a new joint venture

12 / Winepress December 2019

between winemaker Kim Crawford, with his eponymous label, Neal and Judy Ibbotson of Saint Clair, and Murray and Daphne Brown of Cape Campbell. As well as their own labels, they took on clients, and Hamish was exposed to “a vast array of styles”, while working to make himself indispensable. He began in the lab in a vintage position, but always got into the cellar to help when he could, learning on the job. The winery was a “powerhouse” when it came to wine awards, and four of the highly esteemed winemakers working there – Jules Taylor, Matt Thompson, Kim Crawford and Simon Waghorn - all assured him he was better off staying put than studying at Roseworthy or Lincoln. “Investing in books and my own time to study them, asking lots of questions - learning on the job,” he says. “I came in with no preconceived ideas... It was very much a combination of learning from those winemakers, who had been in the business for a long time, and forming my own ideas.” When the Kim Crawford label was sold the venture dissolved, with each business now large enough to go it alone. “Neal took the brave step late in 2004 to go to the bank, engage architects and start plans to build his own winery”, says Hamish, who took up an offer of the senior winemaker position with Saint Clair. Twenty-five years after he left

“It was a place I never thought I would come back to.” Blenheim, expecting to never return, he remains grateful that Marlborough had the incredible good luck to grow a Sauvignon Blanc that remains in global demand. “It’s a variety that we are still seeing growth in, and of course with the growth we are seeing continued plantings come into the valley.” Space will run out, “and that’s a good thing in my opinion”, Hamish says. “If we had areas we could just continue to push into we could find ourselves in a situation where we could cook our own goose. We can look to Australia to understand what can happen when areas are boundless.” He says he is honoured but “somewhat embarrassed” to have received Winemaker of the Year, because so many people play a part in making the company’s wines, with the winemaking team all fully engaged. “It is very much a team effort.”

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Winepress December 2019 / 13

GROW

BRIght Ideas Ensuring science is in sync with industry SOPHIE PREECE

LEN IBBOTSON has hit the ground running at the Bragato Research Institute, thanks partly to hail in Hawke’s Bay and mealy bugs in Central Otago. The Marlboroughbased institute, known as BRI, is the hub of wine science and research in New Zealand, and Len’s role is to ensure the right information gets to the right people at the right time. The newly appointed viticulture extension and research manager is providing a link between BRI and industry, and will work to ensure that learnings from research trials are shared when relevant and useful, in a way industry can understand and implement them. That doesn’t mean dropping results in on everyone, but rather transferring information that is relevant, he says. Len plans to “work backwards” by first establishing what is important to those in the field, “so making sure we have a really close relationship and are in sync with industry across all New Zealand’s winegrowing regions”. He’ll also be looking for the right format for sharing information, and the appropriate people to share it with. “Viticulturists, vineyard managers and winemakers are all really busy, so it’s finding the right time of year and the right format and the right people to target.” The young viticulturist and young winemaker competitions provide a handy pool to dip into, with entrants able to share the BRI’s pertinent findings, says Len. He has big plans afoot, but they all went on hold in September, when Central Otago growers reached out for guidance in controlling mealy bug, and required access to the pool of 14 / Winepress December 2019

science developed over many years in Hawke’s Bay. In that “proactive engagement”, it was a matter of transferring ready information to the industry, Len says. But when hail hit a sub region of Hawke’s Bay in early October, the engagement was around growing the industry’s knowledge base. “Every hail and frost event is so

“Good science and useful research help people make better decisions.” different. The impact of these climatic events will always be extremely variable within vineyards, between vineyards and across regions,” says Len. The industry has good general information, but lacks specifics, “and there’s been opportunity to work with these growers and run some recovery trials on some of the blocks, learning together and developing resources that can add to industry’s knowledge base”. Len grew up in Hawke’s Bay where, after leaving school, he worked in his family’s building and recycling company, tapping into the pre-Trade Me opportunity of finding people the perfect set of French doors or matching a customer with just the right

recycled joinery. The work gave him an appetite for tangible employment in the outdoors and helped him make the decision to study viticulture and oenology at Lincoln University. He was attracted to the science behind the vines and wine, but his main motivation was a love of good food and wine. After graduating, Len worked in a small wine business in France, before moving to Central Otago for a technical viticulture role, followed by one as operational manager, while still making time to complete several winery-based vintage roles overseas. He went on to become the viticulturist for Terra Sancta in Central Otago, a role that enabled him to maintain a close connection with wine, each year joining the winemaking team during the harvest period. In 2016, Len moved to a more corporate scale, working in vineyard management for Matua in Marlborough. Throughout his career, he has been interested in the business side of the wine industry, and is in the final stages of an MBA from Otago University. That interest is something he brings to his new role, by considering the importance of linking winegrowing decisions with a company’s business model. “Good science and useful research help people make better decisions, enabling them to be more profitable, with happier staff, healthier vines and ultimately better wines.”

GROW

The odd vine Imperfect vines could provide the perfect solution when it comes to grapevine improvement. The Bragato Research Institute (BRI) has launched OddVine as a tool for winegrowers to record potential new clones, by taking a snap of any unusual vine and logging the photo on the oddvine.co.nz site. OddVine will notify the BRI Grapevine Improvement team and develop a database of trait variation from vineyards around New Zealand. Dr Darrell Lizamore, BRI’s principal research scientist for grapevine improvement, has long delighted in the potential of natural genetic changes for enhancing vine diversity in New Zealand. That diversity can be exploited for productivity, pest and disease resilience and climate change adaptability, and has been identified as a priority for BRI’s research programme. “We can be sure that vines with interesting new traits already exist among the millions planted across New Zealand. People who spend time in the vineyards and know their vines are best placed to spot something unique.” Things to keep watch for might be particularly early or late budburst or flowering, unusual bunch architecture, and early or late veraison. If a grower sends in a photograph of a vine it will be assessed by the Grapevine Improvement team at BRI. If the Grapevine Improvement team decide that the vine is ’Odd’ enough, they will ask growers to tag the vine and submit a cutting to BRI. OddVine also works to give winegrowers more engagement with research, he says. “We’re hoping that growers will join us in setting up the industry’s grapevine improvement programme.” If you see an odd vine in your vineyard, take a photograph and go to the website oddvine.co.nz to log it. Scan the QR code to go to the website.

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CELEBRATE

Winning Wines Marlborough aromatics shine in Wine of the Year Awards SOPHIE PREECE

MARLBOROUGH WAS out-sauved in the New Zealand Wine of the Year awards, with the varietal trophy going to Nelson producer Seifried Estate. Meanwhile, the Isabel Estate Wild Barrique Chardonnay, Marlborough 2018, won top Marlborough wine in the regional trophies, trumping its Sauvignon competitors. Marlborough didn’t receive a trophy in the final line up, awarded at the New Zealand Wine Awards event held in Blenheim last month. However, the region took six of the 13 varietal trophies announced in advance of the awards night and dominated the field in white wines. Deputy chair of judges Ben Glover says Marlborough has always been “stunning” at aromatics, “and if you tick all the varietal trophies off, that’s your Gewürz, your Pinot Gris and your Riesling, and you could argue the Rosé is an aromatic too. The only one we missed out on is the one we think we have a mortgage over.” He says the Seifried Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson 2019, which took Champion Sauvignon Blanc and Champion Open White Wine, is a stunning “Marlborough-esque” wine, “so hats off to Nelson and to the Seifried family”. The Isabel Estate Wild Barrique Chardonnay won Champion Chardonnay, while Champion Gewürztraminer went to Wairau River Gewürztraminer, Marlborough 2019. The Russian Jack Pinot Gris, Marlborough 2019, took Champion Pinot Gris, and Lake Chalice The Falcon Riesling, Marlborough 2019, won Champion Riesling. Champion Sweet Wine went to the Forrest 16 / Winepress December 2019

Botrytised Riesling, Marlborough 2018, and Champion Rosé to the Two Rivers Isle of Beauty Rosé, Marlborough 2019. The Villa Maria Cellar Ben Glover at the wine awards. Photo Richard Briggs Selection Syrah Hawke’s Bay 2018 won the New Zealand Wine Otago 2018, and Champion Open Red of the Year Champion trophy and Wine for the Saddleback Pinot Noir, the Champion Syrah trophy at the Central Otago 2018. awards night, and Villa Maria also took Ben says that alongside all the the Champion Wine of Provenance varietal trophies, the Champion Wine

“The only one we missed out on is the one we think we have a mortgage over.” Ben Glover 2019 trophy with their Reserve Gimblett Gravels Syrah, Hawke’s Bay 2006/2013/2018. Peregrine had an excellent run as well, winning Champion Organic Red Wine with the Peregrine Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2017, Champion Organic White Wine with the Peregrine Riesling, Central

of the Show has to be something special. “It has to stand up and deliver something unique not only within its varietal expression but as a wine in totality.” The winning Syrah did that quite clearly, he says. “Not from shouting about how good it was, but rather comfortably and confidently allowing the wine to sing with its alluring qualities – this is a wine driven by its exquisite fruit expression, both aroma and flavour, but in particular its personality of style.” The awards evening recognised the New Zealand Wine of the Year winners, as well as other industry achievements including Young Viticulturist of the Year, Young Winemaker of the Year and the New Zealand Winegrowers Fellows for 2019, who are Steve Green, Bob Campbell MW, and Annie and James Millton.

CELEBRATE

Championing Chardonnay A tough road to making Marlborough’s top wine SOPHIE PREECE

JEREMY MCKENZIE knows a lot about audacious goals, rough trails, determined slog, and the motivation of success. They all come in handy doing an Ironman (or five), and have been key to creating two of the best Chardonnays in the country. “It hasn’t been an easy road,” says Isabel Estate’s chief winemaker, who took on the role in 2014, determined to resurrect the fortunes of the company’s iconic Chardonnay. “I am glass half full about everything and love a challenge. I knew it would be hard work, but so rewarding.” The effort has yielded results, with the Isabel Estate Marlborough Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2018 named Champion Chardonnay and top Marlborough wine at the 2019 New Zealand Wine of the Year competition. That followed hard on the heels of the Isabel Estate Marlborough Chardonnay 2018 being named MRC Champion Chardonnay 2019-2018 at the Marlborough Wine Show. Last year, the 2017 Wild Barrique Chardonnay won Best Single Vineyard White Wine at the national event, and in 2017, the Isabel Estate Chardonnay Marlborough 2016 won Air New Zealand Champion Wine of the Show. The single vineyard awards are the ones Jeremy likes most, because the story of these wines goes back to Isabel Estate’s establishment in the early 1980s, when the company’s

first Chardonnay vines were planted. “We are so lucky here at Isabel Estate to have amazing vine age that is such a pleasure to work with, because you have some amazing starting material. There’s a beautiful purity of fruit and weight in there,” he says. “I have always known that the Chardonnay off Isabel Estate is top class. Other people have Pinot Noir or Sauvignon, but the iconic variety for us is Chardonnay, and we really worked to bring it back into the top echelon of Chardonnay producers.” That included vineyard toil to grow healthy fruit and soil, the kickstart of an organic conversion, and the re-establishment of the oak programme in the winery. “These key pillars are really important to producing the type of style we are aiming for.” Chardonnay is one of New Zealand’s “hidden strengths” with excellent examples across the country, says Jeremy. “In the past 10 years, Marlborough has tried to redefine itself to a certain degree on other varietals, and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir have been at the forefront of that. We never lose sight of the global success of Sauvignon, but Pinot Noir and

“We are so lucky here at Isabel Estate to have amazing vine age.”

Chardonnay have been real drivers in terms of more global interest.” Jeremy says his fellow winemaker Josh Hammond is as Chardonnaydriven as he is, and the entire team works to learn more and do better with what they have. “That’s the other key thing - we are not resting on our laurels. We love what we do, and a bit of success along the way really helps drive that.” The Isabel Estate Marlborough Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2018 is 100% Mendoza clone Chardonnay taken from vines undergoing conversion to organics, with the fruit fermented in bigger format oak barrels. The Estate Chardonnay is a mix of clone 95, Mendoza and the new wave 548 clone, “which is an exciting new generation clone coming through”, says chief winemaker Jeremy McKenzie, who recommends pairing the wines with Manuka smoked salmon.

Winepress December 2019 / 17

EDUCATE

Global Research Reducing viticulture’s reliance on scarce resources SOPHIE PREECE

THE CHANCE to undertake more than 17 weeks of study-based travel is “hugely exciting” for Marlborough grape grower Ben McLauchlan, who has won a prestigious Nuffield Scholarship. Ben plans to research ways in which the wine industry could become less reliant on fossil fuels and labour, by looking at the technology and science utilised by other primary producers around the world. The programme will also help develop strong leadership skills with a global perspective, says the Rapaura grower. The Nuffield New Zealand Scholarship is awarded to up to five recipients each year across a range of farming platforms, including agriculture, horticulture, viticulture, aquaculture, apiculture, seafood and

18 / Winepress December 2019

forestry. The recipients of the 2020 Scholarships will have the opportunity to travel in groups and individually to study the latest developments of leading agricultural countries. “The reputation and prestige of a Nuffield Scholarship opens the doors for new scholars to access international businesses like Amazon, John Deere and Blue Apron – businesses that are behind and beyond the farm gate,” says Nuffield New Zealand chairman Andrew Watters. “No other programme can offer this type of access to these globally recognised companies.” Ben’s first trip is for a 10 day International Scholars Conference in Australia, followed by the six week Global Focus Programme in June, during which he and a small group

“It’s been a journey but I am really pleased that I have been successful.” of Nuffield Scholars from around the world will travel to the Philippines, Israel, the Netherlands, California and Washington DC. Then he has 10 weeks of individual travel, in order to research his topic - looking at enhancing the sustainability of viticulture by reducing its reliance on scarce resources – in more detail. He is particularly interested in looking at the technology being put to use in other primary industries, including artificial intelligence and robotics. With three young children at home, applying for the scholarship took a lot of thought, says Ben, who was unsuccessful in his bid for the 2019 scholarship, but put his hat back in the ring for 2020. “The biggest thing to get my head around was how it impacts our family. I have been lucky that my wife has been really supportive… It’s been a journey, but I am really pleased that I have been successful.”

GROW

Smart+Connected Win Wine Marlborough advocacy manager Vance Kerslake shared the successes of the Marlborough Smart+Connected Labour and Skills programme at the Economic Development New Zealand (EDNZ) conference, held in Blenheim. The programme was established last year, after Wine Marlborough realised it needed to bring more industries, Government agencies, and education and training providers into the conversation about the region’s critical labour and skills shortages. The Marlborough District Council suggested rolling out its Smart+Connected programme to ensure a collaborative response to common challenges, and the results have been startling, Vance told the audience. The group has already submitted on two relevant Government consultations around immigration and education, and has made good progress on evolving existing employment and training efforts, while devising and supporting new ones, he says. “We discovered there was an awful lot going on with individual efforts, but people didn’t necessarily know about them. There were great opportunities to do more by working together.” The Marlborough Smart+Connected

programme went on to win the Premier Award at the EDNZ Annual Best Practice Awards, as well as the Inclusive Growth Award. That’s pretty impressive for a region with few resources dedicated to economic development, says Vance. “The award is recognition of what can be achieved with limited resources when we all work together.”

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Winepress December 2019 / 19

CELEBRATE

Wine Race

The ultimate in wine sails COURTNEY HOSKIN

I STARTED my new role in marketing at Saint Clair in September, and by Labour Weekend was set to sail new release wines to Wellington, in the annual WineWorks Wine Race, organised by the Waikawa Boating Club. I thought would be a great opportunity to get exposure for our Delta brand, and what a day it was. This was not my first time yachting over Cook Strait. Last year, I sailed with my partner Ryan Webb, an experienced sailor, to the Eminem concert on David Morgan and Brenda Webb’s yacht Bandit. The first part of that sail was fantastic, but the Karori Rip got the better of me and I spent a bit of time with my head in a bucket. I wasn’t going to do that this time - I made sure to stock up on seasick pills. Last summer, I’d also taken part in a few of the usual Tuesday night twilight racing series in the Marlborough Sounds on Bandit, so I kind of knew what to expect. However, my fellow Wine Race participant, Saint Clair cellar hand Jefferson Simmons, had never been on a yacht before. On the morning of the race, we arrived at our allocated yacht - Sudoeste - at 6am, bright eyed and bushy tailed. Paul Tredinnick and his experienced crew were tasked with taking Jefferson and

20 / Winepress December 2019

me, and our precious cargo of Delta Wine, safe and sound to Lowry Bay. We were both made to feel welcome and handed a hot cup of coffee and a sea sickness pill when we stepped on board. Then were given a thorough safety briefing with the crew and told what conditions would be like. After leaving our berth in Waikawa Bay, we had a beautiful trip through Queen Charlotte Sound and Tory Channel (with a very excited me at the helm for part of the way) to the official race start line off Tory Channel entrance. The race start was 10.30am for us, in division one, which gave us the chance to watch the division two boats (which included Bandit) head off. Conditions in Cook Strait were good, with a light southerly wind and a lazy 2 metre swell. Once we rounded Moaning Minnie, the southerly increased to 30 knots, giving us a big push up the harbour. Sudoeste did not hoist a spinnaker, but most of the other division one yachts did, and we had a lot of fun watching as they battled with the strong winds – several doing big round ups and one even broaching. Paul was thrilled that Sudoeste managed to keep up with the spinnaker fleet. In our division, Satellite Spy

headed the fleet along with Paradigm and Voila. The second division was headed by Rapport and Prime Suspect, with Bandit and Coup d’Etat fighting it out for third much of the way. It was a straight run across Cook Strait, with no tacking or gibing thanks to the consistent southerly wind. In previous races, the yachts have turned west with the finish line off Chaffers Marina, but this year the event finished at Lowry Bay Yacht Club in Lower Hutt. We arrived at 4.30pm, with time to have a break and a couple of drinks (plus a nap for the older crew) before heading to the clubhouse for dinner and prize giving. The club had an awesome atmosphere, with a good mix of winery people and salty sailors chatting together and laughing like we had all known each other for years. This was definitely a highlight of my long weekend and I would love the opportunity to do it again next year. It’s an event that you don’t need any sailing experience for - all you need is a great bottle of wine, a packet of Sea Legs and the ability to have a good laugh. Courtney is marketing assistant at Saint Clair Family Estate

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PROTECT

Carbon Neutral Carbon zero winery cycle tours A MARLBOROUGH cycle tour operator is now carbon zero, thanks to the carbon-storing work of a native forest in Fiordland. Explore Marlborough Wine Tours, which was named top small business at the 2019 Marlborough Chamber of Commerce Business Excellence Awards, has gained certification through ekos, an international non-profit enterprise that partners with native forest owners. Owner Karen Walshe measured the carbon footprint of their business operations for the 2019 financial year,

with low-emissions due to the cycling. “The bulk of our emissions come from driving our guests from their local accommodation out to our base to start their biking wine tour, along with a small output from home office energy consumption.” They would ideally eliminate those emissions, “but until electric minibuses become more available and affordable we will have to look at ways of minimising and then offsetting the remainder of our emissions with buying carbon credits”. They were offered a choice of

offset projects, and selected the Rarakau Rainforest Conservation Project in Southland, with 738 hectares of Māori-owned indigenous forest next to the Fiordland National Park. “We love the idea that by offsetting our emissions we are helping move a valuable New Zealand-based conservation project forward, but that all the offset projects are certified to international carbon standards.”

Twitter Feed Explore Marlborough Wine Tours has unexpected guests this spring, with dossers in their bike baskets. Owners Karen Walshe and Andy Wright opened their Vines Village bike containers to prepare for the busy season ahead, to find a couple of nests nestled in the line of bikes. They steered clear of the homes, and were rewarded with the arrival of eggs, and then baby birds, safely tucked away in the dark back corner of the container. Karen says the new tenants had fortunately chosen back-up bikes that are seldom used in spring, so the couple could leave them in peace and quiet until the birds left the nest last month. The bikes were then groomed, but the birds soon returned to build a new home, says Karen. “They have found safe, friendly territory.”

22 / Winepress December 2019

CELEBRATE

Whitehaven Graperide WHITEHAVEN WINE has taken on the naming rights for Marlborough’s iconic Graperide cycling event. Whitehaven managing director Sue White says the Graperide partnership is a continuation of the company’s commitment to the region. “Being a family owned and operated business means that creating positive impacts on our community is vitally important to us,” she says. “We see the Whitehaven Graperide as a way to promote inclusivity of communities, sustainable choices and a focus on health and keeping active.” Founding sponsors Brigid and John Forrest say the event has become an integral part of the Forrest brand

“We see the Whitehaven Graperide as a way to promote inclusivity of communities.” Sue White over the past 15 years. “Our staff and family have grown up with the Graperide as part of their lives and we’re thrilled to be passing the

baton to another wine brand who is equally focused on community and sustainability.” As well as the change in naming sponsor, the event will relocate the start and finish lines to the Vines Village on Rapaura Rd. Vines Village co-owner Jeff Fulton says he is looking forward to adding “our special touches” to the event. “Cycling has always been a major focus for us and the opportunity to play a significant role in delivering one of the region’s premier events fits well with our eventfocussed ethos.” The Whitehaven Graperide is scheduled for Saturday, 28 March, 2020.

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Winepress December 2019 / 23

EDUCATE

Diving Deep New chair of Organic Winegrowers SOPHIE PREECE

CLIVE DOUGALL has the air of a man whose quirky beliefs are suddenly the height of fashion - dazed and delighted that people are finally seeing the light. The new chair of Organic Winegrowers New Zealand (OWNZ) has spent 13 years championing organic wines for their premium quality, light environmental footprint and authentic story. But it’s only been in the past few years that he’s seen that proselytizing transform into strong sales, as consumers, and consequently gatekeepers, clamour for more. “When I first became involved in organics and biodynamics, it was considered leftfield and alternative, but the world has come a long way. Now, more and more people realise that to make exceptional wine we have to give back to our vines and soils.” That’s indicative of a “maturity” going on in the market, Clive says. “And we are seeing that come through at the winemaking end, because there are simply not enough organic grapes on the market… Companies are desperately trying to get hold of 24 / Winepress December 2019

organic grapes so they can be part of the excitement.” The former Seresin winemaker is putting his money where his mouth is, with the launch of Deep Down Wines - a boutique, small batch, low intervention organic wine company he

“Companies are desperately trying to get hold of organic grapes so they can be part of the excitement.” has founded with Peter Lorimer. “Deep Down is about honest wines forged with intuition and heart,” says Clive, who has been happily stunned by the

reception in the market. Deep Down doesn’t have a distributor, so he’s been booking in with wine buyers around New Zealand, talking directly to his customers, and getting the wine on lists with remarkable ease. Ten years ago, the organic nature of a wine would be the last thing mentioned in a sales pitch, but now it’s a big foot in the door, he says. “We decided to put what we call our ‘environmental callout’ on our front label - certified organic, single vineyard, wild ferment, vegan friendly,” he says. “These are positive selling messages now, instead of marking us as the weirdos.” They are messages that appeal to their customers, who want to promote organics or are even exclusively organic, he says. “It’s a point of difference for these buyers. They know it’s really good wine and that organics has become a sign of quality… It feels like we are riding the wave of it now.”

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Industry Pioneer The Crosse word on Marlborough wine SOPHIE PREECE

WHEN WILLIE Crosse bought a Rapaura vineyard in 1987, he knew he was onto a good thing. More than 30 years on, he looks back at a “bloody wonderful ride” thanks to good fortune, good friends, and “Marlborough’s unique physical place on the planet”. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is an “absolute phenomenon”, he says. “The true pioneers are the people that recognised that phenomenon and took it to the world.” The region’s “distinct offering” will continue to boost its fortunes if it is treated with care, says Willie, an industry champion, who was at the forefront of establishing the Bragato Conference, Sustainable Winegrowers New Zealand (SWNZ), the Silver Secateurs, and the formation of New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) in 2003. That “care” means steering Sauvignon Blanc well away from the commodity market, he says. “When New Zealand Winegrowers talks about total exports and total tonnes, these are commodity numbers. This production obsession is not working well for the dairy industry and it won’t end well for us either.” It is a “slow

26 / Winepress December 2019

grind” to increase the price of wine in the market place, but that is the only sensible way forward, says Willie. One of his few regrets is that in his years on industry bodies - as the president of the Marlborough Grape Growers Association from 1994 to 1999, president of the New Zealand Grape

“What we have here is an absolute phenomenon.” Growers Council from 1999 to 2003, and inaugural deputy chairman of New Zealand Winegrowers - he and others didn’t push for a geographic boundary for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The region’s Geographical Indication was officially registered last year, stretching all the way to Kaikōura, but Willie says it should have happened far earlier, with a much smaller area. “We could

Photo by Jim Tannock

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have drawn it early on, and we would have drawn it wherever we liked and as small as we liked.” He admits that the best Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to ever be made may come off a site that’s not planted yet, but the initial small area could have been expanded as and when demand and price allowed. He is very concerned by the reduced profitability for growers over recent years, as costs continue to climb and income from grapes remains static, having already plummeted. “In 2003 I got $2,550 per tonne and now I get paid $1850.” The threats facing the industry, including new pest and disease issues, biosecurity, and labour shortages, are only manageable if grape growing businesses are truly profitable, Willie says. “If we cannot afford to find solutions, then we get in trouble.” That’s also true of attempts to increase biodiversity, says Willie, who is part of the Marlborough Landscape Group (see pg 28). “Amenity plantings will only happen if the industry is profitable.” He applauds recent moves to “reclaim some of Marlborough’s

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premium brand”, including Appellation Marlborough Wine and Méthode Marlborough, both of which hold members to strict obligations. “We can all do our bit to increase the longterm profitability by a commitment to quality,” he says. “As a grower, don’t sell over-cropped rotten Sauvignon Blanc at $300 a tonne. Just don’t do it.” While they didn’t manage the proliferation of plantings and prevent the dilution of the Marlborough brand, the industry organisations he worked on did drive huge change, establishing forums for research (Bragato), sustainability (SWNZ) and communication (Winepress), and unifying the Grape Growers Council and Wine Institute to form the peak body NZW. “They were all big changes that came in relatively smoothly, because their time had come,” says Willie, who recalls a palpable excitement in the

“Both parties wanted a strong profitable New Zealand industry.” other, he says. “Both parties wanted a strong profitable New Zealand industry.” The only thing the two might ever disagree on is the price of grapes, he adds. “But in fact we will always argue around the margins, which you will in any commercial arrangement. Really, there’s a common purpose in grape prices as well, because it is not in the long term interests of either party

Willie Crosse in the early days of SWNZ

industry at that time, with people eager to learn and share knowledge and insights. When it came to unification in the early 2000s, he went around the country talking to wine regions, and was unsurprised when the vote came in 90% in favour of unification, “because people understood that it was time and that this was a good thing to do”. Growers and wine companies have a common cause and common goals, and what is good for one is good for the

to be too high or too low. So, we’re just arguing around a narrow band.” Willie grew up on a sheep and beef farm in Hawke’s Bay, then completed an engineering degree before heading overseas, during which time he worked out what his father had known for a long time - “that I wasn’t cut out to be a sheep farmer”. On his return to New Zealand, he continued to work in engineering, including on a major irrigation scheme in Nelson, “which

utterly transformed a region that was water short”, then in Wellington on river works. “But I hankered to get back to the land,” Willie says. He looked at various horticultural opportunities, including growing grapes or apples in Nelson or Hawke’s Bay, but wound up buying a 13.5 hectare block of Marlborough vineyard and bare land in 1987 off Rapaura Road. “It just seemed that there was something very special about to happen in Marlborough,” he says. The land, which he called Korohi, was originally planted for Corbans, in Müller-Thurgau and Chenin Blanc for bulk production. After the vine pull in the mid-’80s, the previous owner pulled out the Chenin and replanted in Müller-Thurgau, all on its own rootstock, says Willie. “He reckoned that with all the people planting Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, there would be a surplus of those and not enough Müller-Thurgau.” Willie took stock of the situation and planted the bare land, before progressively replacing the MüllerThurgau in Chardonnay and Sauvignon. He bought and leased more land over the next decade, while also stepping up to governance roles on industry organisations, “which I really enjoyed”. If you think you have something to offer, “there’s almost a responsibility to do so”, he says. In return, the wine industry has been good to him. “We have been very fortunate. It attracts a diverse group of people from a range of disciplines and I have made some great friends along the way.” And while there are risks ahead, Willie remains positive. “We are resourceful and innovative and, most of all, we have a really distinct offering and proposition in the market place. So we can meet the challenges, but we do need to be profitable.”

Winepress December 2019 / 27

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Forgotten Corners Gearing up for a greener Marlborough SOPHIE PREECE

THE MARLBOROUGH Landscape Group is planting the seed for a new biodiversity programme, to help protect the ecology and reputation of the Wairau Plains and beyond. Group member Willie Crosse says Greening Marlborough, if successful in its bid for funding, would assist in the establishment of native plantings on forgotten corners, riparian areas and along vineyard boundaries. The grape grower says the programme would complement the Marlborough District Council’s (MDC) existing Tui to Town scheme, capitalising on a concept already familiar to growers and the public, while broadening its impact. Under the programme, grape growers and wine companies would be able to apply for dollar-for-dollar grants to establish plantings, and also access information about species and guidelines. “We really want to show growers how easily they could create a more diverse landscape, without impacting on their production, by planting the right plants in the right places.”

Going green?

Photo from Whitehaven Wines

The Marlborough Landscape Group is supported by the MDC, which recognises the significance of the wine industry to the Marlborough economy and community, Willie says. The council established the group in 2002 following community concern about the loss of trees and biodiversity in the Marlborough landscape. Landscape architect Di Lucas produced the Wairau Plain Landscape Concept, with ideal species explained, along with guidelines for planting certain areas, including waterways, triangular areas, space around buildings, and road frontages. Willie says Greening Marlborough would look to renew the concepts, with species updated where required, and then help growers with advice and funding. The wine industry and wider community would benefit from more plantings on vineyards for several reasons, including combatting the

negative perception of a grape monoculture and ensuring a better environment for native fauna, and for those who live and work in Marlborough, says Willie. There are also benefits in the reduced cost of mowing and weed spraying. Plantings

“We really want to show growers how easily they could create a more diverse landscape.” Willie Crosse

Biodiversity Coordinator Mike Aviss has 35 years’ experience managing threatened species. He can provide information on wetland enhancement and native plants for your forgotten corners. Check out the Significant Natural Areas and Tui to Town pages at: www.marlborough.govt.nz/environment/biodiversity Mike Aviss Biodiversity Coordinator

DDI: 03 520 7410 | M: 027 227 4900 mike.aviss@marlborough.govt.nz

www.marlborough.govt.nz

28 / Winepress December 2019

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can also mitigate the erosion that results from spraying off waterway banks, helping align landowners’ goals with those of the Ministry for Environment’s Action Plan for Healthy Waterways. As well as biodiversity benefits, more plantings would improve the visual appeal of the region’s vineyards and surrounding areas, with a consequential boost to the marketing efforts of the wine industry and other operators, he says. However, there are obstacles, both perceived and real, to growers implementing planting plans, says Willie. Among them are a lack of Wither Hills Rarangi Vineyard. Photo Jim Tannock knowledge about the benefits of plantings, including environmental helping break the vines across our He says it is not the first attempt and social benefits. There is lack of valleys. It really is time to make this to get more growers on board with vision from some vineyard owners thing happen.” broadening the region’s biodiversity, about what can be achieved, along with but the changing expectations of a lack of understanding of suitable consumers and threat to Marlborough’s To see the Lucas guidelines go to planting species, Willie says. “Greening reputation make for a compelling case. marlborough.govt.nz/environment/ Marlborough aims to provide the right land/landscape-issues/wairau-plains“There are some great examples of information and resources, including landscape plantings in Marlborough, with the the guides and grants required to likes of Dog Point and Pernod Ricard remove those obstacles.”

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CELEBRATE

Generation Y-ine Cellar door champion Blair Macdonald KAT DUGGAN

BLADEN WINES’ Blair Macdonald had barely returned home when he was named joint winner in the 2019 Marlborough Cellar Door Personality of the Year. He grew up with the family-owned business and spent many years working within it, before heading away from the region for more than a decade. “My first day of internship was while I was still wearing a pair of nappies; I’ve been bud rubbing and pruning since day dot - that was my holidays for a long time.” When he finished school, Blair was encouraged to spread his wings, and left Marlborough for Dunedin, where he spent four years working in a student pub, then seven years working in a Wellington recording studio. “Mum and dad have never tied me into being here, however if I wanted to come home I was more than welcome,” he says. That time came in January this year, and Blair has spent the past 11 months learning the ropes of the family business. Alongside studying viticulture and winemaking, Blair spends time between the vineyard, cellar door and helping the odd day at the winery. Claiming the title of Marlborough Cellar Door Personality of the Year, which is sponsored by NZWineHome, took Blair by surprise after such a short time back home. “I’m absolutely humbled. They named me as one of 15 nominees and I thought ‘there’s not a chance’, but I was stoked to be

nominated. To have my name called out was a shock; I’m really happy, and mum and dad were over the moon,” he says. Blair Macdonald at Bladen. Photo by Deni Macdonald During his time away, Blair returned to in 1989, where they first established Marlborough each year for vintage, the vineyard, followed by their wine working at both Whitehaven and label Bladen, named after Blair and Cloudy Bay. His passion for wine is something innate, sparked by a lifetime his younger sister Deni. Deni also left Marlborough following school and is in and around the industry. “I have working as a freelance photographer been around wine since I was knee in the United Arab Emirates. “We are high, it’s always been there and there’s all really proud of her - that girl got a always been an appreciation for good lot of mum and dad’s drive. We’ve both wine in the family, chatting about it absorbed their passion but her drive and enjoying it.” impresses me.” Blair says. Blair particularly He believes Deni will also one day loves being a part return to the family business. “Mum of the experience and Dad realise this was their dream, that wine offers rather than ours, and they encourage consumers. “We are us to follow our dreams. I’m really producing something grateful for that,” Blair says. “Coming that we are all really home, it felt like I had ticked off one passionate about. I of my dreams, I would have regretted love that a bottle of wine can be a catalyst not pursuing the recording industry. It felt like an accomplishment. However, to create memories, whether it’s I was ready to come home and it feels watching the sun go down, enjoying a meal or just enjoying time with friends. like everything has fallen into place. I I love that we are producing something love it and can’t wait for Deni to come really beautiful to fit with that.” There’s back and join us.” no need to break wine down in order to Meet Nina Huria-Bryce, the joint enjoy it, he says. “I think it’s more the scenario that you’re drinking it in, with winner of the Marlborough Cellar Door friends, family and food; that’s my take Personality of the Year, in the January edition of Winepress on enjoying wine.” Blair’s parents, Chris and Dave Macdonald, settled in Marlborough

“My first day of internship was while I was still wearing a pair of nappies.”

30 / Winepress December 2019

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Biosecurity Watch Biosecurity Business Pledge SOPHIE BADLAND

It takes all of us to protect what we’ve got The Biosecurity Business Pledge was launched on October 31, 2019, giving New Zealand businesses a framework to become part of the biosecurity team of all New Zealanders protecting our country from unwanted pests and diseases. About the Biosecurity Business Pledge The Biosecurity Business Pledge has been developed collaboratively by Government, businesses and industry organisations. It aims to encourage a more proactive approach to biosecurity by strengthening the partnership between Government and businesses, and the collective approach to biosecurity right throughout the value chain. More than 50 businesses have signed up so far, including New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) as a supporting partner. Some of New Zealand’s biggest companies, such as Fonterra, Countdown, Mainfreight and Auckland Airport have also committed to the Pledge. NZW encourages all member businesses to consider signing up. Upon signing the Pledge, businesses commit to do the following:

• Actively seek to understand and manage the biosecurity considerations associated with their business activities;

• Promote a culture of proactive biosecurity management within their operations, across their business, around their board tables, and across their teams;

• Incorporate biosecurity into their procurement policies that

32 / Winepress December 2019

guide the selection of goods, travel, logistics, and service providers;

• Take opportunities to support their customers, staff, suppliers and stakeholders to understand the importance of biosecurity and what good biosecurity practice looks like;

• Approach biosecurity with the view that it is everyone’s responsibility, that risk is best managed offshore, and that they will actively engage with the Ministry for Primary Industries to support better biosecurity outcomes for New Zealand.

Why take the Pledge? Businesses that commit to the Pledge are agreeing to integrate proactive biosecurity practices into their business activities and supply chains, which is good business risk management. It also allows businesses

“More than 50 businesses have signed up so far, including New Zealand Winegrowers as a supporting partner.”

to demonstrate that they care about protecting our natural environment and communities. Ultimately, implementing proactive biosecurity practices will help to prevent or reduce the costs and disruptions to business, communities and the New Zealand economy that can accompany a serious biosecurity incursion. The Pledge is an agreement made by businesses in good faith - there is no compliance or audit regime associated with it. Businesses that sign up will become part of a supportive network which will enable them to implement proactive biosecurity activities with their staff, suppliers and customers. They will also receive regular updates and engagement from Biosecurity New Zealand about emerging biosecurity risks and issues, and can use the Biosecurity Business Pledge stamp to show they are part of the Pledge network. More information is available at https://www.thisisus.nz/ biosecuritybusinesspledge/, or email biosecurity@nzwine.com.

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Wine Guide Price plummet not all it seems SOME OF New Zealand’s most have cost $116, and today - with half of popular wines have not increased their the wines the same price and others prices in a decade, or have reduced having risen or fallen by no more than by a significant amount, according to $3 - the total price is identical, he says. Michael Cooper’s latest wine guide. Michael also looked at some However, supermarket price drops may prominent supermarket brands, be an illusion, following legislation that including several from Marlborough, stopped supermarkets from increasing and found them down by 19%. Michael the advertised price in order to make attributes the change to legislation their discounts seem more hefty, says introduced six years ago, banning the Michael. “Once the advertising of advertising of discounts over 25% on ‘50% off’ discounts was banned, the alcoholic beverages, except inside supposed ‘normal retail’ prices of many licensed premises. Until then, wineries wines dropped dramatically.” commonly “priced up to price down”, In New Zealand Wines 2020: creating the scope for discounts that Michael Cooper’s Buyer’s Guide, he looked far better on paper than in the compares the suggested retail price of glass, he says. certain wines in the 2010 edition of his Not all wine prices reduced, with guide with those in the 2020 edition, the average price of some “prestige choosing six mid-priced wines from reds” climbing by 50% over the past long-established, mostly family-owned decade. That increase is only likely DU-WETT WINEPRESS 1/2 PAGE 176W X 124H MM wineries. In 2010 the collection would to continue, especially on the back of

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CELEBRATE

Industry News Picnic pleasure The Dog Point Classic Kiwi Picnic is on in February, with 140 guests set to linger over a long lunch amid the vines and olive trees of Dog Point Vineyard. Margaret Sutherland says the first picnic began 12 years ago as a single table, “but whilst the event has grown, the conviviality of the day remains”. Arbour restaurant will provide a three course picnic lunch focussed on local produce with the menu matched to Dog Point’s four wines - two styles of Sauvignon Blanc, including the barrel fermented Section 94, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and special library back vintage releases. The 2020 picnic will be held on Saturday, February 29. Tickets are $225pp and sell out quickly – get yours at dogpoint.co.nz/social/classic-kiwipicnic/.

Rabobank Wine Quarterly A new tariff imposed by the US on European wine imports could potentially open up opportunities for New Zealand and other wine suppliers, according to Rabobank’s latest global Wine Quarterly. The 25% ‘ad valorem’ tariff – which came into effect on October 18 on wines imported from Spain, France, Germany and the UK – is set to have the biggest impact on French and Spanish wines, with the US accounting for around 18% of French and 12% of Spanish wine exports in value terms. “The tariffs will force wineries to make difficult choices between sacrificing margins by absorbing the increase or passing on the costs and losing hard-won market share that can be difficult to regain,” the Wine Quarterly says. But given the size of the tariffs, wine exporters will “likely be forced to pass on at least part of the extra tariff to their importers and ultimately the consumer”, with the report saying retail prices could increase by 10-15%. And this could trigger a substitution effect, it says, as other wine suppliers – including New Zealand – could benefit from transferred demand. Although, it adds, higher priced wines are likely to be less sensitive to the price increases. Other key developments in the global wine market, the report says, include the potential for an increase in bulk wine prices, with the latest estimates from the European Commission pointing to a 15% contraction in volume for the region in 2019, with smaller harvests expected for all major producing countries. The report says there was a 6% increase in both the value and volume of New Zealand wine exports in the 12 months to August 2019, with the majority of the growth stemming from increased Sauvignon Blanc exports to the UK and the US. “In the UK – our largest market by volume - we saw a 12% increase in volume and an 18% increase in value, while in the US – our largest market by value – the volume of exports rose by 5% and the value by 8%,” says Rabobank senior wine and horticulture analyst Hayden Higgins. “In Australia, the third of our three key export markets, we saw a small fall in volume and value, with both dropping by 1%.” Wine Marlborough Update VANCE KERSLAKE The PacRimEnviro drying plant field trip was well attended, with lots of questions and a bit of sniffing and tasting of the dried marc. There was also a good turnout from the wine industry at the Immigration New Zealand (INZ) roadshow in Blenheim. We met with INZ afterwards to maintain the focus on achieving good outcomes for the industry as the changes are implemented. Last month Wine Marlborough submitted on Government’s migrant exploitation proposals, which could

34 / Winepress December 2019

see you held liable if a contractor breaches employment laws in your vineyard or winery. With not a single labour inspector in Marlborough, we recommended INZ resource and enforce the rules they have, rather than creating new ones. The Marlborough Winegrowers meeting with the Marlborough District Council in November was an opportunity to meet new councillors Barbara Faulls and Francis Maher. We discussed water and land issues, including the potential impact of the Government’s water proposals. If you have any issues you want us to raise with Council in

the new year email Vance Kerslake, Advocacy Manager at advocacy@ winemarlborough.nz Appellation Marlborough Wine More than 90 Sauvignon Blanc labels are now wearing the Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW) quality mark, just a year after the initiative launched. AMW chair Ivan Sutherland (pictured), owner of Dog Point Wines, says the brand is about protecting the reputation Marlborough has worked hard to build. “It provides the winebuying public of the world with an assurance they can see and trust.” There are 49 members of AMW, which

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is now trademarked in all the key global wine markets. “That has been a “huge undertaking”, says Ivan. “This is the first step in protecting New Zealand wine that has now become a global icon.” To bear the brand, members have to ensure the wine is made from grapes grown entirely in Marlborough and cropped at or below set parameters, established according to soil type and vine density variability. If a proposed wine contains any portion exceeding that level, it must be approved by an independent panel of qualified, experienced local producers. The wines must come from grapes harvested from vineyards certified by Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, and must be bottled in New Zealand, under New Zealand regulations. Cloudy Bay estate director Yang Shen says the AMW brand is a necessary evolution for a maturing wine industry, with its increasing range of producers, wines, markets and motivations. “Our members know that it is vital to protect the integrity of our industry, recognising that Marlborough wine is globally unique, extraordinary and 100% worth protecting.”

Elemental Elemental Distillers’ spring Grapefruit A’Peel saw 570kg of Gisborne ‘Golden Specials’ peeled in 80 minutes. That’s a record for the event, says Ben Leggett, the man behind a craft

Marlborough gin business happily housed at Vines Village. Apart from the wild Macedonian juniper at the heart of Marlborough Roots Dry Gin, Ben uses New Zealand grown, seasonally sourced, hand-harvested and homedehydrated ingredients, including the Gizzy grapefruit he loves for its highly aromatic zest. “It is sweet like an orange and tart like a grapefruit.” Hand peeled grapefruit is all very good in theory, but laborious in reality, unless you get a bunch of eager volunteers together with live music, a barbecue and bottomless cups of gin and tonic. After the peel party, the product was freeze dried under vacuum at Cuddon Refrigeration, ready to contribute to around 6,000 bottles of dry gin. The remaining grapefruit flesh is sent to Island Gelato in Auckland, where it is squeezed and converted into a Gin and Grapefruit Sorbet. “This sorbet is then added to the tour and tasting experience at Elemental Distillers,” says Ben. “No waste, full traceability.” Ben is Marlborough born and raised, but spent 14 years in the UK spirits industry, learning much about the UK’s “ridiculous beast” of a gin sector, as well as the power of brand New Zealand in the northern hemisphere. He saw opportunity in connecting the two, so when he returned to Marlborough with his English wife four years ago, began to moonlight with gin trials in the garage.

Biosecurity emergency and response

Sophie Badland has been appointed as the New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) biosecurity and emergency response manager. Sophie joined NZW in September 2018 as biosecurity advisor, and in September 2019 stepped into an acting position as biosecurity and emergency response manager, when Dr Edwin Massey became NZW’s sustainability general manager. Edwin says Sophie immediately made the role her own, “playing a key role in delivering the wine industry’s first biosecurity week”. Sophie will continue to be based out of the Blenheim office.

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Winepress December 2019 / 35

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Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the New Zealand wine industry.

To have your event included in Februarys Wine Happenings or Industry News pages, please email details to sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz by January 20. For more information on these events, email Harriet Wadworth at harriet@wineâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;marlborough.co.nz

DECEMBER 6 A Seat at the Table showing at Clos Henri, from 7pm with screening at 8.45pm JANUARY 10-12 Giesen Wines New Year RegattaÂ 17 Applications close for Family of Twelve Wine Tutorial FEBRUARY 7 Pre Marlborough Wine & Food Festival Soiree - Brancott Estate Cellar Door & Restaurant (eventfinda) 8 Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 9 Wine and Food Wind Down 2020 - Vines Village 14 Nuits Romantiques - Clos Henri (sales@closhenri.com) 29 Dog Point Classic Kiwi Picnic (see pg 34) MARCH 13 Framingham 2020 Harvest Concert 28 Whitehaven Graperide

A Seat at the Table - December 6

Marlborough Wine & Food Festival - Feb 8

Framingham Harvest Concert - March 13

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