WINEPRESS Issue No. 225 / May 2013
Re-using Bottles
Industry Innovation
Global Warming
Watch the Price
Photo: Jim Tannock
The Official Magazine of
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In this issue... Regulars
Features
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4 7
Editorial
Tasman Crop Met Report Marketing Matters
18 Generation Y-ine
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27 Wine Happenings
From Home and 28 News Away All correspondence including advertising / associate memberships / change of address to: Wine Marlborough PO Box 511, Blenheim 7240 T: 03 577 9299, F: 03 577 9298 E: admin@wine-marlborough.co.nz www.wine-marlborough.co.nz
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Re-Using Wine Bottles Currently the majority of wine bottles used domestically end up in landfill. Imagine the marketing coup if New Zealand was able to re-use its bottles, rather than just recycle them. We look at what’s preventing this happening.
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Innovation and Collaboration While the wine industry is renowned for its collaborative approach and its innovative measures – even more could be done. Two recent conferences highlighted some areas where innovation could assist economic growth.
Watch Your Price Point Two influential Chinese wine writers have warned Marlborough producers to take care at what price point they sell their wine in the Chinese market. Visitors to the region last month, both Sophie Liu and Kent Tsang say our prices are high and our recognition is low.
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Global Warming Likely to Increase Plantings A significant piece of research out of America shows New Zealand’s potential vineyard area could increase significantly due to global warming. But is that likely to happen?
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From the Editor
Wine Marlborough Free to all levy paying members Associate Members: $77 +GST Editor: Tessa Nicholson 16 Bank Street Blenheim T: 021 709 571 E: tessa.nicholson@me.com If you wish to make contact with any member of the Wine Marlborough Board, the following are their email addresses. Dominic Pecchenino: nzyanks@xtra.co.nz Blair Gibbs: blair@spyvalley.co.nz James Jones: james@starborough.co.nz Ivan Sutherland: ivan@dogpoint.co.nz Ben Glover: ben@zephyrwine.com Ruud Maasdam: ruud@staetelandt.co.nz Clive Jones: cjones@nautilusestate.com Guy Lissaman: glissaman@xtra.co.nz
What Sauvignon Blanc Means To Us All Vintage 2013 is now over, all bar the shouting. There is a sense of optimism in the air, especially given yields are bound to be up on the lows of last year. Not too far up to cause concern about over supply – but certainly up enough to ensure many markets will now be able to be serviced. It also appears to be a far better year for growers, with the price for fruit also rising. According to Neal Ibbotson, in a recent Marlborough Express story, prices could be as much as $400 more a tonne, than they were last year, (in terms of Sauvignon Blanc.) And that means Marlborough as a community is going to benefit. For example – if we look at the 189,000 tonnes of fruit harvested in Marlborough in 2012, and say roughly half of that was contract grown, we have close to 95,000 tonnes of fruit being paid for. If the average was say $1200 a tonne – that means an overall income of $114 million from grapes here in Marlborough. Now add another $100 to each of those tonnes and we have an increase of another $9.5 million. Add $200 a tonne and the income inflow equals $133 million. If Neal is right and the average price has risen by say $400 a tonne, then the income suddenly rises to $152 million. (Admittedly, I have used the Sauvignon Blanc price across all varieties, but you get the picture.) While a substantial amount of that money will be used to repay debt, there is also a chunk that will be spent right here in Marlborough boosting the economy. In the broader picture, Sauvignon Blanc alone brings into New Zealand $900 million a year in export earnings. Of the $1.2 billion dollars worth of wine exports, three quarters are generated by Sauvignon Blanc, with the vast majority of that sourced from Marlborough. So why is it then, that with these amazing statistics, Marlborough is still deemed to contribute only 1% of the nation’s GDP? Is there more value that could be added to the wine industry that would see that figure change? A report from the Massey University based Riddet Institute believes there is a need for more collaboration and innovation in food and beverage industries in this part of the country. In a report commissioned by the Marlborough Research Centre, it laid down the gauntlet of tripling the value of Marlborough produce in the next 12 years. For example, could something be achieved with the 40,000 plus tonnes of marc that is derived each vintage? Could the industry create value in the supply chain through innovation? Could more be made of the brand name Marlborough? They are all areas that need to be investigated in the future, as the region moves forward. In the meantime, whenever someone complains about the proliferation of the wine industry here, or denigrates our flagship Sauvignon Blanc, you may want to remind them that currently Marlborough’s wine industry is a multi million dollar financial force to be reckoned with and should be protected at all costs.
Laurin Gane: laurin.gane@xtra.co.nz Simon Clark: simon@clarkestate.com
TESSA NICHOLSON tessa.nicholson@me.com
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Met Report Table 1: Blenheim Weather Data – April 2013 April 2013 GDD’s for: Month - Max/Min¹ 141.1 Month – Mean² 124.1 Growing Degree Days Total Jul 12 - Apr 13 – Max/Min 1350.5 Jul 12 - Apr 13 – Mean 1360.9 Mean Maximum (°C) 19.5 Mean Minimum (°C) 9.8 Mean Temp (°C) 14.7 Grass Frosts (<= -1.0°C) 0
was -0.986°C. The temperature has to be -1.0°C or below to record a ground frost. Over the past 27 years (1986-2012) Blenheim has averaged 1.3 ground frosts in April.
April 2013 compared to LTA
April LTA
Period of LTA
April 2012
134% 112%
105.3 110.8
(1996-2012) (1996-2012)
105.8 112.1
1305.9 (1996-2012) 1340.8 (1996-2012) 18.8 (1986-2012) 7.8 (1986-2012) 13.3 (1986-2012) 3.6 (1932-1985) 1.3 (1986-2012) Air Frosts (<0.0°C) 0 0.4 (1932-1985) 0.3 (1986-2012) Sunshine hours 153.2 188.1 (1930-2012) Sunshine hours – lowest 92.1 1938 Sunshine hours – highest 238.5 1958 Sunshine hours total – 2013 980.4 110% 894 (1930-2012) Rainfall (mm) 102.5 199% 51.4 (1930-2012) Rainfall (mm) – lowest 0.6 1992 Rainfall (mm) – highest 173.0 1962 Rainfall total (mm) – 2013 202.1 108% 187.5 (1930-2012) Evapotranspiration – mm 72.5 117% 61.9 (1996-2012) Avg. Daily Windrun (km) 203.6 89% 227.6 (1996-2012) Mean soil temp – 10cm 12.4 +0.5°C 11.9 (1986-2012) Mean soil temp – 30cm 15.1 +0.7°C 14.4 (1986-2012) ¹GDD’s Max/Min are calculated from absolute daily maximum and minimum temperatures ²GDD’s Mean are calculated from average hourly temperatures
1166.2 1218.6 19.4 7.7 13.6 0
103% 101% +0.7°C +2.0°C +1.4°C 3.6 less 1.3 less 0.4 less 0.3 less 81%
As is my usual practice in the May edition of Met Report, a seasonal weather data summary table is included. Also a table that contrasts harvest dates and yield components on five Sauvignon blanc subregional vineyards over the period 2005-2013. April 2013 weather summary April 2013 was a month of two distinct halves. The first half of April (1-15) recorded average sunshine hours and temperature and well below average rainfall. The second half of April (16-30) was overcast with well below average sunshine, well above average rainfall and number of rain days and well above average temperature. Temperature In Table 2 April temperature data are averaged over different periods of the month to indicate how variable the temperatures were. The mean temperature for the whole month of 14.7°C was 1.3°C above the long-term average. The first half of April (1-15) had above average daily maximums and below average daily minimums as a result of clear skies. The week from the 5th to the 11th was particularly cool. The second half of April had slightly cooler day-time temperatures however the night-time minimum temperatures were much warmer than in the first half of the month due to the overcast weather. The final week of the month from the 24th to the 30th was more typical of late February, rather than late April, with a mean temperature of 16.8°C, which was 3.5°C above average.
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0 228.6 825.4 35.0 157.2 79.4 213.1 11.9 14.1
Table 2: Contrasting temperatures during April 2013 Date Range
Mean
5-11 April (7 days) 24-30 April (7 days) 1-15 April (15 days) 16-30 April (15 days) 1-30 April (30 days) Long-term average
(°C) 11.6 16.8 13.9 15.5 14.7 13.3
Mean Mean Maximum Minimum (°C) (°C) 17.9 5.3 21.6 12.0 20.0 7.8 19.0 11.9 19.5 9.8 18.8 7.8
Frosts No ground or air frosts were recorded in April. However, the morning of 11 April was as close to a ground frost as it could get without officially being recorded as one. The grass minimum on 11 April Figure 1: Growing degree days for Blenheim: days ahead (+) or behind (-) average Growing Degree Day summation starting from 1 September
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Growing Degree-Days Figure 1 is an update of the graph that has been presented a number of times this season. The very warm end to April is indicated with a steeply rising GDD line. A monthly GDD summary is included in Table 3. Sunshine Sunshine in April 2013 of 153.2 hours was only 81% of the long-term average and the eighth lowest sunshine total for April for the 84 years 1930-2013. In contrast April 2012 (fourth highest total for April) recorded 75.4 more hours sunshine, with a total of 228.6 hours; i.e. April 2013 recorded 2.51 hours less sunshine per day than April 2012. Season Weather Summary Table 3 provides a breakdown of the main weather parameters for the 2012/2013 growing season in comparison to the long-term average. For the purpose of comparing the current season with longterm data relevant to the period for which the grape industry has been in existence in Marlborough, the long-term average data is over the following periods: For Rainfall, Temperature and Sunshine the long-term average (LTA) data is for the period 1986-2012. For Growing degree-days (GDD) and Evapotranspiration (ET) the long-term average data is for the period 1996-2012 (the period over which these two parameters have been recorded electronically). Temperatures over flowering of Sauvignon blanc in December 2011 and December 2012 Figure 2 displays a running 5-day average temperature trend for Blenheim during December 2011 and December 2012. The five day trend smoothes out the individual daily highs and lows and allows the trend during the month to be viewed. The solid blue and red horizontal lines indicate the start and end date of flowering at Squire Estate in Central Rapaura in both years. Flowering was later and lasted longer in December 2011 due to the cooler temperatures (blue dotted line). We know that the cool December 2011 temperatures restricted fruit set for the 2012 harvest and also led to lower bunch numbers per shoot for the 2013 harvest. Mean temperature 1-15 December 2012 = 16.1°C Mean temperature 16-31 December 2012 = 19.7°C.
Figure 2: Running 5-day average temperature during December 2011 and 2012 with flowering period of Sauvignon blanc at Squire Estate in Rapaura indicated
sub-regions in Marlborough over the nine years 2005 to 2013. 2- and 4-cane vines are monitored in these vineyards each year. These vines have been pruned to a consistent number of nodes each year and we try to avoid any crop load manipulation on the monitored vines in order to gain an understanding of the climatic influence on harvest date and yield components each season. We monitor the phenology of the 2-cane pruned vines each season, (dates of budburst, flowering, véraison and harvest). Each
It is interesting to note that in the season that has just finished, the first half of December 2012, when most of the grapes were in flower, was much cooler than the second half (red dotted line). Had flowering in central Rapaura been about a week later in December 2012, then yields would have undoubtedly been a lot higher than they were. Harvest date comparison Table 4 summarises data that have been collected from five Sauvignon blanc vineyards in different
Table 3: Monthly weather summary for the 2012/2013 growing season in comparison to the long-term average LTA 12/13 Rain Rain Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr Total Mean % of LTA or deviation
mm 53.6 64.0 52.3 51.2 44.0 48.2 40.1 43.1 396.5
mm 32.4 53 7 25.4 59 18.6 22 102.5 319.9 81%
LTA Mean Max °C 16.2 18.1 19.8 21.8 23.4 23.1 21.4 18.8
12/13 Mean Max
12/13 Mean Min °C 6.3 7.5 7.8 12.3 12.6 11.1 10.7 9.8
LTA 12/13 Mean Mean
16.4 18.7 19.8 23.6 23.7 23.3 22.3 19.5
LTA Mean Min °C 5.9 7.8 9.3 11.6 12.7 12.4 10.4 7.8
20.3
20.9
9.7
9.76
15.1 15.36
+0.06
+0.26
+0.61
°C 11.1 13.0 14.6 16.7 18.0 17.8 16.0 13.3
°C 11.4 13.1 13.8 18.0 18.2 17.2 16.5 14.7
LTA GDD
12/13 GDD
LTA ET
12/13 ET
°C 70.4 107.3 143.2 206.5 238.1 215.2 192.9 110.8 1284.4
67.2 110.6 123.9 239 242.9 196.1 198.1 124.1 1301.9
mm 72.3 99.1 121.8 139.0 138.8 108.4 100.3 61.9 841.6
mm hours 77.6 192.2 112 225.3 116.6 238.7 149.8 248.5 159.4 260.9 115 220.4 104.1 229.5 72.5 193.6 907 1809.1
hours 204.6 239.5 266.9 256. 281.1 291.1 255 153.2 1947.8
108%
108%
101%
LTA 12/13 Sun Sun
Table 4: Calculated date of 21.5 Brix for 2-cane pruned Sauvignon blanc from five sub-regional vineyards over nine seasons in Marlborough 2005 2006 2007 Upper Brancott Booker 2 April 11 March 25 March Mid Rapaura Squire 9 April 9 March 25 March Oyster Bay Airfields 1 April 11 March 31 March Fairhall Villa Maria 20 April 15 March 29 March Awatere Seaview 16 April 27 March 25 March *Fairhall fruit did not reach 21.5 Brix in 2009.
2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
2013
20 March
29 March
5 April
29 March
12 April
26 March
21 March
5 April
29 March 22 March
9 April
30 March
19 March
14 April
2 April
16 April
1 April
31 March
30 March *20.9 Brix 23 April
14 April
7 April
30 April
11 April
28 March
8 April
4 April
3 April
23 April
1 April
Table 5: Yield components for 4-cane pruned Sauvignon blanc at mid Rapaura Squire vineyard over nine seasons 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Mean 2013 2013 05-12 % of mean Yield per vine (kg) 8.0 4.9 5.6 7.4 8.4 7.4 8.1 7.3 7.14 6.9 97% Bunch number per vine 76 56 75 59 70 59 57 74 65.8 60 91% Average bunch weight (g) 105 86 75 125 120 125 143 99 109.8 115 105% Berry number per bunch 59 47 40 60 61 63 70 52 56.5 59 104% Average berry weight (g) 1.80 1.83 1.9 2.1 2.0 2.0 2.03 1.91 1.95 1.96 101%
season berry samples from the vines are collected weekly from pre-veraison to harvest and the 2-cane vines are harvested prior to the commercial harvest of the block. The date of 21.5° Brix in Table 4 has been calculated from the weekly berry sample analyses. The date of 21.5° Brix (harvest) is largely determined by the climatic influences in the early part of each season and to a lesser extent the date of harvest is modified by the crop load on the vine each season. At harvest we hand pick the 2- and 4-vine bays and count the number of bunches per bay and take a berry sample. From these parameters we calculate the yield and bunch per vine, average bunch weight, berry number per bunch and average berry weight. Table 5 presents the yield component data for the 4-cane pruned vines for the regional vineyard in the central Rapaura vineyard for the nine seasons 2005-2013. The individual yield components are averaged for the eight seasons 2005-2012 and the 2013 yield components are compared with this eight year average. The following comments relate specifically to the yield components for 2013 in comparison to the average, for the vineyard in Rapaura as detailed in Table 5. Yield per vine was slightly below average at 97% Bunch number per vine was only 91% of average due to the cool temperatures during bunch initiation in December 2011 (Figure 2), 16 months prior to harvest Bunch weight was 105% of average, largely attributable to higher berry number per bunch Berry number per bunch was slightly above average due to reasonably warm temperatures over fruit set. Higher than average berry number per bunch in 2013 largely compensated for the lower than average number of bunches Berry weight was almost exactly average. Acknowledgement: The data presented in Tables 4 and 5 have been collected as part of the Sauvignon blanc regional vineyard research program in Marlborough. Thanks to Pernod Ricard, Villa Maria and Delegats Oyster Bay for allowing this trial work to take place on their properties. The collection of data from 2005-2010 were funded by the Foundation for Research Science & Technology through the research programme titled “Quality New Zealand Wines”. Direct co-funders of this research programme were NZ Winegrowers. Collection of data from 2011 to 2013 has been funded by the Marlborough Research Centre Trust. Rob Agnew Plant & Food Research The Met Report was brought to you by
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Marketing Matters WITH MARCUS PICKENS
Recognition Where Recognition Is Due In my time here in Marlborough I’ve
biennial Wine Marlborough Life Time
recipients of the Lifetime Achievement
heard the wine industry referred to as
Achievement Award. We instigated this
Award. But now we would like to hear
many things. Not all of them have been
award back at the inaugural Marlborough
from you about other potential recipients.
savoury, but many give us the recognition
Wine Weekend in 2007, with past
Is there someone you believe has
we deserve for having achieved so much
recipients being; Gerry Gregg (2007),
had an impact on the development of
in such a short time.
Ross Lawson (posthumously 2009) and
Marlborough? If so who are they and
Many refer to the climate as being one
Phil Rose (2011). We are beginning the
what have they done that has helped
of the key drivers in our phenonmenal
process of considering recipients for the
make us what we are today?
success. We all know though, there is
2013 award now. Once again the award
There are other awards to consider
more to it than that. Give someone three
will be annoucned at the Wine Weekend,
too. NMIT has recently written into their
choices to name what is most special
which this year is planned for 1 - 3
academic statutes the provisions for
about this region, and I wonder how
November.
awarding special honours and honorary
many would say ‘its people’? Hopefully
Each of these indiviudals has played a
awards and can award Honorary Fellows
everyone.
role in establishing Marlborough’s wine
and Degrees. It is so recent that at this
We have some of the most intuitive, highly
industry. Gerry Gregg began working at
stage none have been awarded.
skilled and trained individuals working
Montana in 1976. He has been with the
The Department of the Prime Minister
within the wine industry. They feature
organisation through all its name changes
and Cabinet handle New Zealand Royal
in all facets of our diverse and thriving
and his input into the development of the
Honours and their nominations.
sector which represents approximately
company itself and his support of the
The Marlborough District Council also
80 per cent of the country’s eight largest
wine industry overall is hard to describe
has an awards process with Civic
export sector.
in words.
Honours for individuals, and Marlborough
From the inside looking out we know
Ross Lawson was one of the instigators
Awards for individuals or companies
the the wine industry is competitive.
of the Screwcap Initiative and fought
or organisations that have significantly
But from the outside looking in, we are
tirelessly for a change of closure to
benefitted Marlborough.
seen as cohesive and collaborative. We
improve the quality of our wine. His own
There is no time like the present for you
constantly work together to achieve one
company, Lawson’s Dry Hills, was the first
or your company to consider people or
goal – making Marlborough and New
in the world to bottle all its wines under
organisations that you consider to be
Zealand the number one choice for high
the new look closure.
appropriate recipients and put them
quality wine.
Phil Rose from Wairau River changed the
forward.
There are many people who have helped
landscape of the region, by fighting to
sow the seeds of that collaboration.
allow grapes to be grown in the Rapaura
People who have worked tirelessly to
area. Can you even begin to imagine
cement our name and reputation. At Wine
Marlborough wine without Rapaura in the
Marlborough, we believe it is important
mix?
to recognise those individuals via the
Each of these men were deserving
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Re Using Wine Bottles TESSA NICHOLSON
Easy to remove labels could be the only thing holding the New Zealand wine industry back from re-using wine bottles. That’s the view of Neil Pollett from NZ
years ago to one that is at the top of its
While many may think the hygiene
Luxury Ltd, who is keen to see more
game. We are on average one of the
aspects of re-using a bottle is the sticking
of our wine bottles re-used, rather
highest priced per litre wine producers
point for the industry, Neil says that is not
than the current form of recycling. His
in the UK and that’s our biggest market.
an issue.
reasonings are simple. If New Zealand
But we run the risk of losing that if
“The bottles basically go through a very
wants to make a point of difference in
sustainability becomes an issue. And in
rigorous washing programme at 80 deg
its overseas markets, then it seriously
the UK sustainability is all important.”
Celsius. Plus there are electronic high
needs to look at the carbon
tech bottle inspections that
footprint associated with the
can pick up minute cracks or
packaging of its wine.
chips in every bottle.”
Currently it’s believed that up
The technology is readily
to two thirds of the carbon
available, so why hasn’t it
footprint of a bottle of wine,
been put into use already?
is in the bottle itself. Even
He says that in New
though bottle manufacturers
Zealand’s case, a lot has to
currently use a proportion
do with buy in from wineries
of recycled glass in the
and the fact that currently the
production of a new bottle,
glue used on New Zealand
it is not as environmentally
wine label stock is creating
efficient as re-using a
problems with removal.
bottle over and over again.
“One of the issues that we
An environmental report
have had and it needs to be
undertaken last year (by
overcome is the labels. We
Auckland based Eunomia
have done a considerable
Research & Consulting)
amount of testing with two
showed by re-using wine
of the major bottle washing
bottles, the carbon footprint
machine manufacturers in
would be lowered by a
Germany. They have come
massive 93%. That could
back and said the vast
be a major selling point Neil
majority of the labels won’t
believes.
come off, due to the varying
“New Zealand wine has
types of label stock and glue
done a fantastic job to come
Notice the glue residue left on this wine bottle after being washed?
used to adhere the label to
from an unrecognised wine
This is a problem if the industry wishes to re-use bottles rather than
the bottle.
production country 30 odd
recycle.
“We have come across a
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new type of label technology, produced
bottles are recycled. However in many
support the movement, the pool of
by a company called Avery Dennison,
regions such as Marlborough, those
material available for re-use would
one of the leaders in label stock
bottles are co-mingle recycled, meaning
increase substantially.
production. They have a particular type
they are placed in with cans, plastics,
He admits it will require a buy in from
of stock that will come off very easily in
other bottles and paper. There is no way
a substantial part of the New Zealand
the type of washing machines we have
of keeping the bottles safe from damage
wine market for the idea to gain traction.
looked at, but won’t come off where you
“Many get crushed in the trucks as
However the wine industry is not adverse
don’t want it to, such as in a chiller or in
the drivers compress their loads to fit
to change – look how the screwcap
an ice bucket.
more waste in. Smashed bottles make
initiative took off just 10 years ago.
“It could be a selling and marketing
recycling a headache, consequently a
Re-used bottles could be the next
point for any winery. Especially if they
vast amount goes to landfills.”
innovative step forward.
had a sticker or identification on the label
Neil suggests a plastic crate that the
that promoted the fact this bottle can be
wine bottles can be safely stored in
re-used.”
would answer the issues of damage.
There are other issues that need to be
These could later be collected in bottle
overcome, with one being changing the
drives, providing the ability for charity
psyche of New Zealand wine consumers.
organisations to raise funds.
Currently hundreds of thousands of wine
If the on-premise market was to also
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Innovation and Collaboration TESSA NICHOLSON
Two conferences held in the top of the south last month focused on the need for innovation and further collaboration if New Zealand is to make the most of its natural advantages. At a Food and Beverage Innovation seminar, Mark Ward from the Massey University based Riddet Institute released some of the findings of a report commissioned by the Marlborough Research Centre. He said a cluster of Marlborough food and beverage industries need to work collaboratively to ensure that value is added to this region’s export products. There was a need for innovation as well, to make the most of the region’s natural resources and particularly in terms of the by-products of industries, such as grape marc. Currently the value of Marlborough produce is close to $2 billion, but the Riddet Report wants to see that increase to $6 billion in the next 12 years. To achieve that, there is an urgent need to transform from a commodity culture to one of high value. That was reiterated by Massey University Vice Chancellor Steve Mahary, who said in spite of Marlborough being a leader in terms of viticulture, aquaculture and horticulture, the region provided only 1% of New Zealand’s GDP. “You need to do more,” he said. “At the moment you are interested in viticulture, aquaculture, horticulture and agriculture. And whenever the word culture is added to a word, it means commodity. And we
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know what commodities are, they are low cost.” New Zealand overall, has the ability to become the food capital of the world he said – but to do so, we have to change our focus. “We have been a producer orientated country looking forward from the farm gate. We now need to be consumer orientated, looking back from the consumer.” He talked of how as a whole New Zealand used to be the off shore farm of Britain, and warned that if we are not careful, we will soon be the off shore farm of China. “That can’t be the way we do things. If they position us as an off shore farm, as the British did, we will go in as a commodity producer of food. We need to position our food (and wine) as higher cost and go into markets where they can afford us.” At the Primary Industry Innovation and Collaboration conference held in Nelson, a similar message was being given. Since the 1880s over 55% of this country’s exports have come from the food and beverage sectors. Theses days wine is one of the mainstays earning $1.2 billion in revenue, making it the eighth largest export earner.
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But more needs to be done and Graham Stuart, CEO of Sealord, believes the supply chain is one area New Zealand companies could be mining far better than they currently are. “The richest source of innovation material more often than not, lies in the supply chain,” he said. Currently New Zealand export companies tend to stop half way down. “That is due to our focus on getting the product to the farm gate, then the factory, putting it in a container and shipping it out. FOB, FIS and it’s gone. But the reality is that beyond that there is a whole supply chain lying undiscovered for a lot of New Zealand exporters, where value is added.” Stuart talked about supply chain innovations in the seafood industry that has seen Sealord purchase their own transport modes to ensure they control their product from the catch through to the point of sale to a consumer. It ensures he said, the company gets to understand where their product is going and to whom. “If you deal with an import agency or distributor or wholesaler then that business takes care of all the rest of the supply chain. But you don’t get to see the end user. You don’t understand the end
use of your product. And another point is that a great proportion of the end costs of the product are actually in that supply chain.” The New Zealand wine industry was hailed as a primary industry success story when it came to innovation and collaboration. During the conference, there was a strong focus on wine, from site visits through to speakers including Peter Yealands and NZWinegrower CEO Philip Gregan. In terms of innovation, Gregan said the meteoric rise of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was an international success story, as has been the move away from cork to screwcap closures. But neither of those successes would have been achieved if there had not been a collaborative approach. Gregan said while uniting both grape growers and wineries into one organisation has allowed the industry to move forward at pace, one of the greatest collaborative events is one many people have no idea about. He was talking about the establishment of the World Wine Trade Group, formed in 1998.
For a number of years the New Zealand wine industry had realised the future was in exports, he said. But strict European regulations was stymieing any chance of growth. “So we had to come up with ideas on how to gain access to markets. We came to the conclusion that we had to work with our competitors to improve access to the key markets we were interested in.” That involved sitting down with other new world producers, such as Australia, America, Canada, Argentina and South Africa and forming the World Wine Trade Group (WWTG). “We said we all have the same problem, which is getting market access. So why don’t we work together to improve that market access for all of us. So somewhat counter intuitively, by improving the market access for our key competitors, we have improved the market access for ourselves. Now three of our top wine markets are within the WWTG, Canada, US and Australia. The WWTG has three treaty level agreements between the governments. These are not some sort of low-level memorandum of understanding,
these are treaty agreements. And what has been achieved in the World Wine Trade Group now, is influencing developments in APEC and the Trans Pacific Partnership.” What that means for New Zealand wine exporters is, the wine only has to meet the standards of New Zealand specifications – not say Canadian, or American. It helps to remove costs and hurdles companies would otherwise face. Gregan says the collaboration of the WWTG has allowed NZW to develop an influence over the international regulation of the wine industry that it could never, ever have achieved by working alone. Moving into the future, as New Zealand wine attempts to break into the all important Chinese market, further collaboration may be required. On a recent visit to New Zealand by influential Chinese wine writers, it was apparent that New Zealand is known for milk powder, but little else. Maybe, the next step forward is for industries like Fonterra and NZWinegrowers to collaborate.
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Focus on Sauvignon Blanc – but Watch the Price TESSA NICHOLSON
“Depends on the price,” was the over riding statement to come from two Chinese wine writers, when asked if the market for Marlborough wine could be expanded in China. Kent Tsang, the GM and Executive Editor of Wine Magazine, one of the most influential magazines of its kind in China, and Sophie Liu, an independent wine writer, visited Marlborough last month. They were two of four lifestyle writers brought to New Zealand by NZTE and NZWinegrowers. After an extensive regional tasting of Marlborough wines, the group were enthusiastic about the quality and range of varieties emanating from this region. However they said for them to gain recognition within China, producers would have to be very careful about the price points they were sold at. Both quoted Marlborough Sauvignons selling for the equivalent of NZ$50. “That’s quite high for the Chinese,” Sophie said. “That is compared to French wines, which people in China know about.” She said the image of New Zealand wine is very low, (in terms of recognition), but the price point is very high. “So you have a gap between image and price. You have to promote the image of all of New Zealand up. You have to distinguish yourself.” In a similar way to how New Zealand milk powder has been promoted. “When I was coming to New Zealand, my friends all asked me to bring them back some milk powder,” Sophie said. “What you need to do is make sure that
in the future when people come to New Zealand, they are asked to bring back a bottle of wine.” The issue for our producers is that many consumers do not know or recognise New Zealand as a wine-producing nation. Overcoming that hurdle is a major one for New Zealand wine they said. While still a young wine producing country, the visitors said the stories behind our regions, styles, people and labels are vitally important. Consumers are hungry for that sort of information, and greatly influenced by it. More events focusing on the country as a whole and wine and the stories behind that wine should be a priority if sales are to increase, the writers said. However they understood that money was a major obstacle. While diversity of styles and varieties is seen as an important step in the evolution of Marlborough as a wine producing region, Kent believes, it is different in China. “I always think one region should have their signature grape for a developing market. It is not easy for consumers to remember all the wines that come from a region, but Marlborough is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, and it is good for consumers to remember one signature grape.” She also added the new emerging styles,
Sophie Liu aged in oak impressed her greatly. “These would go very well in China, especially in the coastal areas where a lot of seafood is eaten. These would be very good foods for your wine” As for the other white varities, both liked the Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer, but said the market for them would be very small. “Focus on Sauvignon Blanc, that is my advice,” Kent said. Pinot Noir though was a wine they believed could do very well in China, once again depending on the price point it is marketed at. “It is not as big and full as a Burgundy, it is lighter in style,” Sophie said. “I think that is an advantage in China.”
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New Zealand Making its Mark in China TESSA NICHOLSON
Alvin Gho is one of only 15 professional sommeliers in Shanghai and is more than supportive of New Zealand wines, whether they be Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir. As the sommelier at The Peninsula Shanghai, Alvin is in charge of a 600 label wine list, with an inventory of 6000 bottles. While 400 of those labels emanate from France, he has also included 15 from New Zealand. That’s an amazing feat for this small wineproducing nation, given he only has a total of 200 labels to cover every wine producer outside of France. What’s more, if he was offering wine by the glass, he says he would be likely to include a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and a New Zealand Pinot Noir, among the 10 offerings. Prior to his position at The Peninsula, Alvin worked for Jean-Georges in Shanghai, as head sommelier. When he began there, the restaurant was offering between 25 and 30 wines by the glass. That was too many for Alvin’s liking, so he chopped the list back to just 10. The four reds, four whites and two Champagnes had to be classical representations. “The focus in mind was to bring out the classics from classic regions,” he says. “If I want a Shiraz, I won’t bring in an Argentinian Shiraz, I would find something from Southern Australia. In the same way if I want a Sauvignon Blanc, I wouldn’t put an Austrian Sauvignon Blanc on the list, even though there is nothing
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wrong with them. For me it must come from only two regions; either the Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumè in France, and then Marlborough. Same with Pinot Noir. I will only do those from two regions; Burgundy and New Zealand.” Given the quality of Oregon Pinots, it was a surprise to hear Alvin say he wouldn’t include an American in his list of wine by the glass. “They are not the classic style of Pinot Noir and that doesn’t work for me. Wine by the glass has to be classic style, classic region. For me outside of Burgundy, the next classic region is New Zealand.” High praise for this country. Diminutive in size, Alvin is a heavy weight in terms of position. His previous positions prior to The Peninsula and Jean-Georges, include head sommelier at Three on the Bund Shanghai and Raffles Hotel in Singapore. He has numerous awards to his name including this year’s Champion at the Singapore Sommelier National Competition and quarter-finalist at the World’s Best Sommelier Competition. Having someone of this caliber on the side of New Zealand wine is a pat on the back for the entire industry. However he admits his work is cut out for
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him. The move in China away from red wine dominance isn’t happening as fast as many would like he says. And those that are buying our whites, tend to be ex pats, rather than Chinese nationals. But that doesn’t stop him trying to convince Chinese diners, that they should try New Zealand wines. “I usually sell them based on versatility with cuisine. Especially when you have Sauvignon Blanc with some oak and Pinot Noir with a good backbone of acidity. These are important factors for pairing wines with food.” He says there is little understanding in general of texture and balance. Most consumers just know whether they like it not, rather than what it is that they find attractive. To overcome that lack of knowledge, Alvin will often suggest a diner try say a New Zealand wine with a particular dish. “The exercise I always do, is pour them a glass of wine, and if they say, ‘Oh it’s too acidic, it’s too something or other’, I say wait! Have the food together and try it. If you don’t like it, I will take it back. That’s the only way you can challenge people to try something different. Very often with New Zealand wines, they are pleasantly surprised. Maybe not surprised, but pleasantly glad.”
The big issue for the New Zealand wine industry is getting the wine into such places as The Peninsula to start with. To do that, the producer has to capture the attention of the sommelier or wine buyer. And Alvin has some clear dos and don’ts, if you want to be successful. Having a sommelier representing a cachet of wine producers is always a positive move he says. “Sommeliers all over the world are connected through wine. If I am a sommelier and I know the (representative) was a sommelier before, and I am asked to do a tasting, I would think about doing that. But in one year, I would have a few hundred suppliers, winemakers and wine producers trying to visit me. If I meet everybody I wouldn’t have time for my own work.” The timing of the visit is vitally important, especially given the busiest time of the day for sommeliers is the afternoon, and early evening – a time when many people expect to be able to have a chat. And while the culture of wine drinking is changing in China, in Shanghai there are still only 15 professional sommeliers. (That is up from five, two years ago.) Fifteen is a manageable number to deal with – if you get the timing right. “Most of us are busy during the day and we can’t drink because we have to go
back for dinner service. I suggest why don’t you guys do a wine tasting and tapas at 11 o’clock. This I can guarantee sommeliers will be happy to pop by after work, have some food and enjoy the wines. They can talk about the wines, mingle and relax, without having to think about beating the rush hour crowd to get back to the restaurant. You have to be creative. Nobody does tastings with sommeliers at night in China. You could do this.” Alvin was in Marlborough towards the end of vintage, applying himself to handpicking grapes. It was a first for him, as he worked alongside Mike Eaton of TerraVin. Being a part of harvest is essential for him he believes, in his
progress towards a Master Sommelier classification. But he did admit the harvest wasn’t quite as he imagined it. “I have always heard stories about how the French have a two hour lunch during harvest. I was expecting the same thing here in New Zealand, but I got 15 minutes. I was so looking forward to the long lunches with wines and meats. That didn’t happen,” he said laughing out loud. Not that he was complaining, he said the experience he gained from his stay here has been paramount to his total understanding of the wine industry overall. And will help him push those New Zealand wines on his list, that bit harder.
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Changing the Face of Labour TESSA NICHOLSON
In the past six years Wine Marlborough’s Labour Co-ordinator Claire Wilson has placed thousands of people into work and provided workers for hundreds of local employers. Now she is moving on, leaving behind a legacy of looking after the small guy, whilst helping to ensure the bad guys out there didn’t go un-challenged. The past six years have been a period of dramatic change in terms of labour within Marlborough’s wine industry. When Claire first took on the job, (on a fourmonth contract) there were high numbers of illegal workers in the province, and equally high numbers of complaints about the ethics of some of the region’s contractors. Maintaining a stable and productive work force was high on everyone’s list and the rolling out of RSE was seen as the salve to the industry’s woes. Convincing locals that it was a potential winning solution though wasn’t that easy. “There was a handful who saw the benefit, but most of them didn’t like the labour pool option – recruiting from the Pacific. Initially people saw there were benefits of improving compliance through RSE, but a lot of them had reservations about whether bringing the labour from the Pacific was the right option. So many of them were using so many different nationalities such as Asians, under Seasonal Work Permits. It was hard to get buy in from everyone I think.” It was obviously a job that required more
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than four months to complete and Claire’s role has morphed into not only labour coordinator for Marlborough, but also an advisor to the wine industry overall. She has worked closely with Government departments, such as Ministries of Social Development, Inland Revenue and Immigration. While gaining and retaining labour was the major role, Claire was also responsible for ensuring New Zealand’s employment reputation. Think back to 2007, before Seasonal Work Permits and Approval in Principal permits came to an end. Stories of workers being exploited, wages and taxes not being paid, and illegal immigrants hiding among the pruning crews of Marlborough, were
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weekly headlines. It did nothing for the image of Clean, Green New Zealand. That has been one of the big issues for Claire, ensuring contractors are compliant in all areas. “In fact getting buy in from everyone to encourage compliance. And by that I mean the contractors, the growers, that everyone is making sure the person out there doing the work in the vineyard is being well treated and respected for what they do. We have had some successes. We have seen a lot of illegal workers voluntarily go home, others have been removed. I’ve seen some contractors removed, contracting businesses close down, contractors that have opened up a number of businesses close down and move out of the area. They are all good things for Marlborough” It is highly unlikely all of those successes would have occurred if the role of Labour Co-ordinator hadn’t been established. What is equally important in shutting down “cowboy” contracting firms, is the lid it has placed on what could have been a PR nightmare for this region. “Potentially anyone who comes here to work in the industry, is your consumer back in their home country. They don’t necessarily know the winery, or vineyard they work on, or what label the wine
comes out under, but they will remember being in Marlborough working in the wine industry. That’s the story they take back home. They will provide our best or our worst PR.” In terms of moving forward, Claire believes the labour shortage facing Marlborough needs to be addressed and quickly.
A Job Well Done Marcus Pickens – GM Wine Marlborough You may not know of the Seasonal Labour office, or have met Claire, but you will have felt the impact of what she has achieved for our membership. Often lacking some of the glamorous aspects of the visible activities we deliver, Claire’s role was a standalone one, in an off-site office at the Work and Income building on Alfred Street. Used working holiday people? Wanted some local workers to help you? Needed to get information on skills training for your vineyard or winery staff? Wondered how the local industry connects regarding labour, with ACC, Immigration, Public Health, Work and Income, our local Member of Parliament, Marlborough District Council, Police etc? Wondered how some of our industry tasks remain on the skills shortage list? Needed an IRD number for a worker? All this and much more has developed and happened thanks to Claire and her network. Early into Claire’s employment with Wine Marlborough there was no certainty that the role would continue beyond the shortest possible terms, now there is no doubt that the Seasonal Labour role will be replaced and built upon, that is a measure of Claire’s impact and contribution.
“Most of the sectors in Marlborough struggle to attract good productive labour. Currently our backpacker numbers are down, RSE numbers won’t cover the gaps. We need to get more New Zealanders to get involved in the industry at ground level. The industry could look at more apprenticeships and nurture the idea that it’s not a dumping
ground for those that can’t get a job anywhere else.” Claire herself is not planning on straying away from the wine industry. She will take on a completely different role, as Logistics Administrator at Wairau River Wines.
From Gerald Hope – Former Executive Officer Wine Marlborough In May 2007 Wine Marlborough advertised seeking a ‘Seasonal Vineyard Labour Co-ordinator’ who would be solely responsible for placing upwards of 2000 workers into vineyards for the pruning season. Claire Wilson won the position and has remained stoically at the forefront of vineyard labour supply and placement for the past six years. Marlborough vineyards were rapidly expanding at the time and there was a confirmed labour shortage rapidly approaching that the local workforce could not hope to fill. When the Government introduced the Recognised Seasonal Employer Scheme to allow a Pacific Island sourced workforce into the district this was a game changer and with it came a whole bunch of new social and cultural issues. Claire’s job became a whole lot bigger and way more complex. Her service to the Marlborough wine industry is unique and should be recognised for what it was. Taking on a tough role, dealing with unique and often complex issues wrapped around government departments, different cultural and social sensitivities, dealing with contractor obligations and compliance, obtaining employee and worker seasonal work permits all of which made up to be very busy days in the office. To quote from Claire at the time ‘She was
attracted to the position because of the challenges it will offer (she certainly got them) that her problem solving skills, logical thinking and ability to work under pressure would suit the job.’ (Yes, that turned out to be the case) Although Claire had no direct experience in the wine industry her personality fitted the role perfectly. She is a capable frontline operator who connected well to the contractors and government agencies. Her no nonsense approach sorted the issues, and cleaned the minefield that was laid in the early days of RSE programme roll out. Thank you Claire. You made a difference and can justifiably be proud of establishing a vineyard labour force recruitment and placement structure in Marlborough. Philip Gregan – CEO NZWinegrowers Labour is one of the big issues we face going forward. How we treat labour, how we treat the people who work for us is very important in terms of an image we project as an industry and as part of our sustainability platform. And there is the simple fact of having the numbers of people – the right trained people – to do the job. Claire has been at the absolute coalface at addressing both of those things. She has done a fantastic job at times in quite difficult circumstances. And she is going to be missed.
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Generation Y-ine TESSA NICHOLSON
Nick Hunter - Assistant Viticulturist Cloudy Bay Vineyards If there is such a thing as an epiphany, Nick Hunter had one while still at college here in Marlborough. Despite his age, despite not having come from a grape growing background, he had a single goal – he wanted to grow grapes. Now 20 years later he is doing just that – as assistant viticulturist at Cloudy Bay. The seed of the idea came from a school holiday job he had working on Hamish and Anne Young’s vineyard back in the 90s. Even though the tasks such as wire lifting, leaf plucking, mulching and mowing may seem mundane, there was something about being outdoors, and the lifestyle that appealed to him. The fact Hamish also ran a contract harvest business, meant Nick was also able to see first hand the end result of the growing season. “That was a big eye opener, seeing and tasting many different varieties that were being grown at the time. Varieties like Flora, Palamino, Chenin Blanc and of course Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. It was also here that I had my first real wine experience. It was the 1994 Gillan Wines Eastfields Sauvignon Blanc. I remember the striking nose of passionfruit and nectarine.” While Nick was gaining interest in the wine industry through his holiday work, his parents Bill and Julie were also moving in the same direction. They planted their own small vineyard and began managing Alex and Sharon Vyborny’s Hawkesbury Road Vineyard. Bill is still there today.
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After leaving school Nick signed up to do a Horticultural Science degree at Lincoln, encouraged by both his parents and Hamish. After a year though he decided to change the degree to Horticulture Commerce. “It’s a horticulture management degree with the option of doing all the viticulture papers. So I took all those, but I also did commerce papers.” It wasn’t all study and practical experience he was gaining during his days at university. He was also exploring the world of wine – thanks he says to a student loan. “I remember buying a bottle of Penfolds Grange 1996 En premiur and running out of petrol in my old car, bringing the precious bottle home, because I didn’t have the cash for petrol.” At least in that case he got to drink the wine, even if he had to walk home with it. “Another memorable purchase at the time was a bottle bought at auction. In my haste to unwrap the courier package I dropped the bottle which smashed to smithereens on the floor of my parent’s garage. It was a Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay which had the most amazing nose – but who knows what it tasted like.” After completing his degree, Nick came back to Marlborough with the goal of gaining more first hand experience in the vineyard. He was aiming to become a vineyard manager, but realised he needed to get his hands dirty first. “I worked for Ian and Donna Anderson for a pruning season, then stayed on to work
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for Ian developing vineyards.” The year was 2002, a time of massive development here in Marlborough. Nick was involved in developing properties from Fairhall through Rapaura and right up the Waihopai Valley. There is many a post he can look at now and say, “I helped put that in.” In 2002 a chance to move to Central Otago came up, one he jumped at. His task was to manage the Mark Two vineyard in Lowburn. Thirteen hectares of the former sheep property were being developed – with all of the land being on steep slopes. It was a different scenario to anything he had experienced here in Marlborough. “It was a good challenge and I enjoyed that. I came in the first year and a lot of the initial development had been done. But I had to finish running wires and irrigation and getting those vines through the first two to three years. A big part of it for me, was learning how important soil management is, nutrition and cover crops, as well as managing the irrigation”. Management techniques in Central were very different to what he had seen on the plains of Marlborough. For example the first sprays of the season had to be undertaken via helicopter. And in terms of soil management, mulching was vital. “If your soil hasn’t been managed properly, all the good soil runs to the bottom of the hill and you are left with stony ridges which have their problems in terms of nutrition and water holding
capacity. I had to learn how to deal with different types of mulch such as old hay and straw. We also planted a lot of cover crops to help keep the soil in place.” It was a buoyant time in Central, as the region’s reputation for Pinot Noir began to grow. More and more developments were taking place and the obvious positivity around that was contagious. But Nick had always planned to return to Marlborough. He had wanted to oversee the vineyard development through until the first crop. Once that was achieved, it was back to this part of the world, as the manager of Cloudy Bay’s Widows block on the outskirts of Renwick.
From the small holding of 13 hectares in Central, he was now in charge of 121 hectares – of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and small parcels of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. “Cloudy Bay was a company I had long
admired based on wine quality. At the time, working for viticulturist Sioban Harnett, I learnt how to adapt to a change in operation scale, as the vineyard grew through 2006 and 2007. I also learnt to work as part of a broader team.” In 2011 Nick was appointed as the assistant viticulturist for Cloudy Bay. “My role now is a technical one. That is yield estimation, fertiliser, irrigation and grower liaison.” The latter being something he really enjoys. With 25 contract growers spread throughout Marlborough, it has given him the opportunity to gain a greater
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understanding of the sub regions, and all their individual quirks. “We are such a young industry and there are things that we are still learning, especially when it comes to sub regional differences. There are so many sub climates around the area, and different soil types, even within a single vineyard block. As grower liaison I enjoy getting out and talking to people, looking round their vineyards, seeing their different management techniques, because everybody has a different philosophy on how to grow grapes.” When it comes to variety, Nick has a clear favourite – Sauvignon Blanc. “It’s definitely a challenging variety to grow and it can be difficult to grow well.
It’s a vigorous grower, so we have to temper that yield, especially in areas like Rapaura where we have a lot of soil variation in our vineyards. It has to be managed carefully.” Given the youth of the industry, Nick says there have been some phenomenal developments already – particularly in the field of technology. “I think because it is such a big industry here there is a lot of pooling of ideas. Everybody is looking for efficiency drives where they can. Take the Klima vine stripping machine for example. That has had a big influence on the industry. It has changed the face of pruning.” Moving forward he expects there will be even more technological advances,
which will coincide with the maturity of the wine industry. And as Marlborough’s vines gain age, the opportunity for increased knowledge in terms of what and how we produce wine will increase substantially. In terms of his own future, Nick is keen to travel and experience viticulture in other regions, with wife Lauren and daughter Eloise. Argentina would be his first pick, followed by the south of France and Italy. “It would be good to have a stint overseas for a few years – but that’s in the future.”
Mantissa Invests in Viticulture Mantissa Corporation has long been associated with New Zealand’s Horticulture and Wine Industry, delivering high quality plant health technology and conventional foliar plant nutrition products. Mantissa has also added other complementary products to its portfolio, giving it the ability to offer a comprehensive range of plant health products, including micronutrients, plant stress compounds, and growth stimulants. To back our on going commitment to the wine industry Mantissa has recently recruited Stuart Miller as South Island Territory Manager. He is based in the heart of our grape growing capital, Blenheim. Stuart’s passion and background is firmly entrenched in the wine industry, having studied in Margaret River, Australia and Central Otago. In 2004 he moved to Marlborough, and has worked at Cloudy Bay, The Crossings and more recently at Elders NZ. From being in the vineyard through to sourcing and retailing products used among the vines, Stuart has a wealth of knowledge and experience. We welcome Stuart and his family to the Mantissa Team.
For any Queries/Questions on our product range please contact Stuart on 021 288 2703 or visit our Website -
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Global Warming Should Increase Marlborough’s Vineyards TESSA NICHOLSON
New Zealand’s suitable grape growing areas could more than double by 2050, due to the effects of global warming, and Marlborough could be one of the regions to benefit. An international study, undertaken by
Along with New Zealand; Northern
practices that are likely to impinge on
researchers at the University of Texas,
Europe, North America, and parts of
undisturbed high bio diversity areas and
indicates that New Zealand will be one of
China, are likely to see more areas
use limited water resources.
very few winegrowing countries to benefit
become suitable for viticulture.
In the case of New Zealand, the report
from the effects of global warming.
The study is the first to combine the
calculates the expansion of the wine
Marlborough in particular could see
impact of global warming on wine regions
industry into new areas would increase
more tracts of land become suitable for
and also includes wider environmental
its ecological footprint by 126 per cent, at
growing grapes, particularly in the Ward
concerns, including increased irrigation
the maximum.
to Kekerungu area and further up the
creating potential freshwater conservation
There is no mention within the report
Wairau Valley.
issues and the impact on natural habitats.
on just how much temperatures will rise
The other areas within New Zealand
“Climate change has the potential to
between now and 2050, and according to
that have been identified as potential
drive changes in viticulture that will
the President of the New Zealand Society
“new” grape growing regions of the
impact on Mediterranean ecosystems
for Viticulture and Oenology, Dr Glen
future include, Canterbury, inland of
and to threaten native habitats in areas
Creasy, there is also no consideration
Whanganui and west from Martinborough
of expanding suitability,” the report
given to the rogue weather events that
to Masterton. However current regions
states. On the issue of water, it goes on
New Zealand is prone to suffering.
such as Northland and Coromandel may
to say; “Potential damage to freshwater
Events such as late spring frosts, tropical
no longer be suitable, as temperatures
environments is generally highest where
cyclones, early autumn frosts and severe
rise over the next 40 years.
water is already scarce. Climate change
rain events around harvest time, may
In contrast, Mediterranean Europe which
may bring precipitation decreases to
have the final say in any future expansion.
includes historic areas such as Tuscany,
some regions, increasing the need for
“All of which are quite detrimental to the
Languedoc, Provence and Rhone Valley,
irrigation, which may result in impacts on
grape growing industry. It may be that the
could see suitable grape growing areas
freshwater ecosystems.”
overall temperature may be warm enough
decline by 68 per cent. Australia’s
To sustain wine production in such areas,
to grow good quality wine grapes but
warmer climates could also see suitability
the authors contend growers will need
we have an extreme weather event, that
drop by a massive 73 per cent.
to expand and adopt novel farming
makes it uneconomic to actually do that
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year after year after year.”
In summary Dr Creasy said the research
Given where we are, the impact of
He said even without the effects of global
is important, but he cautions people
climate change is going to be less than
warming, New Zealand’s wine industry is
against taking the blind application
in a lot of other areas. But we have
already moving into new areas.
of their findings to the New Zealand
the ability to go up in terms of altitude
“These are already being explored,
situation, which differs in significant ways
and move south in terms of latitude to
as witnessed with the successful
to other areas of the world.
preserve the climates we have already
development of vineyards in the Ward
Dr Mike Trought from Marlborough Plant
got. And if the South Island becomes
region of Marlborough and in the Waitaki
and Food Research says global warming
warmer, those areas may become more
Valley of Canterbury.”
is likely to have a subtle impact on the
suitable for North Island varieties and in
And while the report states that “climate
flavor profiles of the wines New Zealand
the north the areas may become suitable
change may cause establishment of
is already renowned for.
for varieties like Zinfandel for example.
vineyards at higher elevations that
“For example, the style of Australian
We are in a good space I think, although
will increase impacts on uplands
Shiraz consumed today is probably
the challenge will be around availability
ecosystems,” Dr Creasey doesn’t agree.
different to that consumed 20 years
of water.”
“If expansion occurs, it will come at
ago. The alcohol concentrations are
Given the mantra of being led by
the expense of existing industries on
significantly higher now on average,
demand, Gregan hopes the report
areas relatively close to sea level, such
but this does not reflect a change in the
won’t see people buying up land
as other horticultural crops, dairying,
quality perception.”
for development, without doing due
grazing stock etc. The ecological impact
He also believed there could be changes
diligence first.
of this may even be beneficial, as the
in the varieties being grown in New
“People can’t make assumptions that
grape growing industry has changed
Zealand to accompany any long-term
markets will be there. And that research
dramatically in the past 20 years, with
changes in temperature and rainfall.
was talking about 2050, 37 years away,
the successful uptake of Sustainable
NZWinegrower CEO Philip Gregan
so who knows what the market situation
Winegrowing and rapid growth of
believes there is nothing new in the
and demand is going to be like then. It’s
organically and biodynamically managed
report about the possible impact on this
an entire generation away.”
vineyards. Biodiversity is now embraced
country’s future as a wine producer. He
in vineyards, as evidenced by these
says many of the issues covered have
The full report can be viewed at www.
programmes, as well as projects like
already been discussed at length at past
sciencemediacentre.co.nz
Greening Waipara and Falcons for
Romeo Bragato conferences.
Grapes.”
“They have all said the same things.
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5/2013 WINEPRESS
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Marlborough Rises in Great Pinot Classification TESSA NICHOLSON
Five Marlborough wine producers have made it onto the Great New Zealand Pinot Noir Classification for the first time, joining 33 other locals. It is the sixth time the Great New Zealand Pinot Noir Classification has been produced by Matthew Jukes and Tyson Stelzer. Of the 484 Pinot producers nationwide, 120 estates have made it onto the Classification. Those 120 are then ranked from the top Five Stars, down to One Star. (Five stars are reserved for estates consistently performing at top gold medal standards, while an estate worthy of a One Star has produced Pinot Noir that averages a silver medal.) All the ratings are based on a rolling average rating of the five most recent vintages. When releasing the classification, Tyson said the record number of estates in this year’s classification reflects the rise of New Zealand in producing Pinot Noir more successfully at every price point, than any other country in the world today. “Burgundy, California and Australia cannot keep pace with New Zealand’s top estates in offering exciting Pinot Noir at affordable prices,” he said. “We have never witnessed a jump in the standard of New Zealand across all price points as dramatic as that of the past 12 months. In a land of largely young vineyards, an additional year of vine age has pushed the roots deeper into the chalk of Waipara, the schist of Central Otago and the gravels of Martinborough and Marlborough. Meanwhile, growers and makers are embracing a new
sensitivity in drawing out the unique personality of their region. New Zealand Pinot Noir has never spoken more articulately of the character of its place.” The new comers from Marlborough to join the Classification are Astrolabe, Clos Marguerite, Jules Taylor, Whitehaven and Zephyr. Another four local producers have been applauded for being promoted one or more levels. They are; Auntsfield, Framingham, Fromm, and Nautilus. Tyson says the favourable conditions of 2010 certainly helped produce some stunning Pinots, although the more difficult 2011 vintage “could hardly have been a more profound contrast, and some estates did not even produce a wine at all. As always, it is the challenging vintages that define the finest estates. Our rolling five-year Classification is a strong buffer against vintage effect, but these contrasting seasons have
contributed toward something of a changing guard, particularly among our One and Two Star estates.” While Marlborough does not have any estates ranked with four or five stars, the region is well represented in the three, two and one star categories. Three Stars: Auntsfield, Cloudy Bay, Dog Point, Spy Valley Envoy, Forrest, Jackson, Nautilus, Seresin, Te Whare Ra, Villa Maria. Two Stars: Delta, Foxes Island, Framingham, Huia, Blind River, Fromm, Spy Valley, TerraVin, The Ned, Saint Clair, Greywacke, Wither Hills, Two Rivers One Star: Allan Scott, Brancott Estate, Hunter’s, Astrolabe, Odyssey, Jules Taylor, Isabel, Lawson’s Dry Hills, Clos Marguerite, Marisco, Mud House, Staete Landt, Sacred Hill, Whitehaven, Zephyr. As for the top New Zealand Pinot Noir producing estates, according to Jukes and Stelzer. They are; Ata Rangi, Bell Hill, Felton Road, Mt Difficulty and Rippon. The Classification is the only one of its kind undertaken in this country – and both Jukes and Stelzer taste every New Zealand Pinot Noir they can. “This Classification is the culmination of well in excess of 1000 tastings in New Zealand, Australia and London in recent months alone.”
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Book Review REVIEWED BY DR RICHARD SMART
Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz Last October saw the release of one of
plantings, in the 2012 Vineyard Register.
the most significant books ever published
My guess is this is the least varietal
about grapes and wine, in any language.
diversity of any country in the world; the
Titled Wine Grapes – A complete guide to
statistic reinforces the fact that every
1368 vine varieties, including their origins
second vine in NZ is Sauvignon Blanc,
and flavours, is authored by Masters of
planted in Marlborough.
Wine Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and
The authors have listed the 40 countries
Swiss scientist José Vouillamoz, (see
of origin for grape varieties, New Zealand
www.winegrapes.org).
is not one of them, having developed
Jancis Robinson is a well-known wine
no unique varieties. Also there is an
journalist, with a plethora of wine
excellent account of just how grapevine
books, articles, videos and an excellent
varieties come about. This book contains
webpage to her credit. Her Oxford
the best explanation of the origin of
Companion of Wine has won every major
grape varieties that I have ever read,
wine book prize, and I predict that her
and should be compulsory reading
newest triumph will do the same. Julia is
for any student of grapes or wine. The
also a wine specialist, and Jose a vine
relationship between varieties, clones,
scientist specialising in genetics.
and mutation is carefully explained,
This book is very timely. There are groups
as is the concept of ‘Adam’ and ‘Eve’
of wine producers around the world,
varieties, called ‘founder varieties’ in this
interested to explore the enormous
book. With DNA technology, we can work
diversity of grape varieties, and to
upwards through grapevine variety ‘family
present consumers with more wines than
trees’.
those from the handful of ‘international’
The very heart of the book is the
varieties. But attempts to understand
individual variety entries. Each variety
what varieties are out there, where they
is given a principal name (which is
are grown, and the wine styles they
capitalised), by which the book is
produce have been very difficult, as
alphabetically arranged. Then follows
the information was never before in one
origins and parentage and viticultural
source.
characteristics. This is followed by where
Some of these people are in New
it is grown and what the wine tastes like.
Zealand; there may be more to grapes
The latter entry will include planted area,
and wine than Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot
and some principal wine-producing
Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.
companies. The summary tasting notes
Interestingly, and alarmingly, these four
on wine styles are most useful. This
varieties make up 89% of New Zealand’s
compilation of so much data on a single
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
variety is the greatest achievement of this impressive book. I do not know of any other grape variety book with this level of well-researched information. New Zealand is acknowledged as a place producing fine wines. For example, on page 957 it says “But it is New Zealand that claims the Sauvignon Blanc crown.” Also, on page 815, “Along with Sauvignon Blanc, is one of New Zealand’s proudest achievements”. This book is a seminal masterpiece, and it will come to be regarded as such in both popular and scientific grape and wine literature. The concept of combining commercial wine experience over an extensive geographical scale, with traditional ampelography and recent genetic studies is so truly comprehensive that it beggars comparison with any other. Frankly, I cannot imagine any professionally-minded person associated with grape and wine production would not want a copy on their bookshelf.
Wine Unwound A ROOKIES PERSPECTIVE WITH ANNABELLE LATZ
Harvest finishes as quickly as it begins. Like the flick of a switch at the end of March, New Zealand Wineries was transformed overnight into a nest of 24-hour endless activity. Tools became a scarce resource on the
pumps, collecting equipment for pumps,
of all the activity at the winery. Not that
equipment walls as they were utilised by
racking, dips, transferring, innoculating,
barrel work escapes the daily continuous
the 35 or so cellar hands during each
analysing and fermenting.
chaos of harvest.
shift. Pumps were like gold dust, coffee,
Three weeks of non-stop action, laughter,
Between locating the barrels amongst
milk and tea was consumed at lightening
frustration, the odd tear, hungry tummies,
a maze of stacks of wooden oakiness,
speed in the smoko room, and grapes
hot bodies, cold bodies, tired bodies,
- mooging (steam cleaning) them, hot
were galore.
lack of sleep, excitement, over tired
rinsing them, setting up the pump,
Three weeks later, the last load of grapes
giggles, and special moments.
making sure they sit straight and square
rolled in, the press was turned through
The body had to adjust to the endless
on the racks, filling them to required
its paces, and the juice was pumped
stream of 12 hour shifts. And quickly.
levels, battling the bubbles of the
into various tanks. Just like that, it was all
Luckily for me, I worked 7am to 7pm, so
fermenting tanks, chalking the codes
over.
the body clock was spared any major
onto both ends, and putting them away, -
I am still no expert when it comes to wine
time adjustments.
the barrel work becomes quite involved.
making, but now I know a wee bit about
Work never slowed down, because the
Stress was created through many means;
a fair lot.
24-hour operation meant as one shift
leaking barrels, filling barrels in the
Harvest is addictive, it makes or breaks
finished the next shift started, with night
pouring rain, an air-filled barrel spear
you. It consumes you.
crew picking up where we finished.
being released into a barrel causing an
You know you are in the thick of it
Smart nutrition was essential. Fruit,
explosion of red wine, filling barrels too
when you don’t buy the Sunday Star
muesli, boiled eggs, biltong was all good
quickly causing overflows, spending
Times for three weeks, there are
stuff.
hours topping barrels by hand with
constantly scribbles up your arm of dip
As was coffee, chocolate and tea. Of
bubbling fermenting juice which was a
measurements and tank numbers, you
course.
long and arduous task, searching for set
feel half naked without your gumboots on,
For most of harvest, I was on ‘oak’ round.
up equipment and walking for what felt
you get to enjoy yummy catered lunches,
Day in day out, I spent most of my time
like kilometres around the winery to do
your nightly dreams involve hooking up
filling barrels with juice and wine, and
so.
the line properly for a racking or transfer,
transferring wine from barrels into tanks.
Harvest. I now have an idea of what this
and you wake up with a start at 2am with
I had to get used to dry cracked black
word really involves, from the pain and
‘Oops, I forgot to rinse out that tank!’
hands, but oak barrels are something
frustration to fun and celebrations, and
Three weeks of non-stop transport trucks,
special.
every sticky mad moment in between.
pressing grapes, hose dragging, locating
The smell and warmth creates a calm
tanks, searching for tanks, setting up
environment, like a bubble in the middle
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Tui to Town – Five Years Old NICKY EADE
This year marks the fifth anniversary of the Tui to Town project aimed at increasing numbers of the native bird on the Wairau Plains. Prior to 2008, ecological studies showed there was less than 1 % of the natural vegetation left in the Wairau Plains around Renwick and Blenheim, and native forest birds like tui, bellbirds and wood pigeons were few and far between. Progress has been made through a combination of restoring and protecting the few natural areas that did still exist and encouraging other people to plant new areas. A lot remains to be done but after five years it is good to reflect on the achievements so far. About 33 “Tui to Town” plantings (of at least 1000 square metres) have been planted over this time, about one third on vineyards and the rest on small rural properties. A number of other landowners have been doing their own native planting projects as well. Most of the larger existing areas of native habitat on the Wairau Plains (2-10 hectares), are wetlands in private ownership, generally on vineyard
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properties. Nearly all of these are in the process of being restored and protected by their owners, most with some assistance from the Councils “Significant Natural Areas” programme which provides practical and financial help. With all of this effort there has been a small increase in area of habitat overall but also a significant investment and improvement in the condition of existing habitat. The combined effect of these areas over time will be considerable, as they continue to mature and begin producing shelter and food for native birds and insects. For instance, the big trees like kahikatea, totara and matai, all of which would have once been common on parts of the Plain, will take about 10-20 years to begin fruiting from planting. Over 600 sightings of tui in and around town have been reported over the five years. Australian Eucalyptus species has been most popular with tuis (35% of sightings), kowhai the next most popular (23%) and after that sightings were scattered amongst a range of species, flax, banksia, camellia, fruit trees and so on. The map shows all of the known areas of native plantings on the Wairau Plain that are 1000 square meters or larger. Using ecological reserve design theory
The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
a distance ranging from 200 metres to 2.5 kilometres has been shown a round each planting, depending on the size of the area. This shows the relationship between the areas and also shows where there are still large gaps with no native habitat present. The Council has native planting guidelines available and also will assist with funding of areas that are 1000 square metres or larger through the “ Tui to Town” project. Contact Nicky Eade at the Marlborough District Council for more information on the Tui to Town project or have a look on the Council website www. marlborough.govt.nz
Tui Facts Tui will travel up to 30km to feed on nectar especially during winter Tuis prefer nectar when available, but feed on fruit and insects through the summer /autumn months Tui court each other through September/October and then nest and breed through November to January back in the Northbank forests Both parents are kept very busy feeding, so their feeding range decreases dramatically – they need a rich food source nearby and therefore need at least 1 hectare of suitable habitat area to breed.
Wine Happenings A monthly list of events within the Marlborough wine industry. To have your event included in next month’s calendar please email details to tessa.nicholson@me.com MAY 11
27 Saint Clair Vineyard Half Marathon. Details at www. vineyardhalf.com
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JUNE 11 18-20
Blenheim SEPTEMBER Pinot at Cloudy Bay – details at www.cloudybay.co.nz
NZW South Island Grape Day – Convention Centre,
13-15
The Food Show – Christchurch
Blenheim
16
Entries open for The Marlborough Wine Show
Judging of Spiegelau International Wine Competition – Moore Stephens Markhams Marlborough Young Viticulturist 2013 Open Day
JULY 26
Romeo Bragato Conference. Convention Centre,
7
Blenheim 27
Hotel, Blenheim. Details at www.nzsvo.org.nz 28-30
Entries close for Spiegelau International Wine Competition
Chardonnay – Ripe for a reboot – Marlborough Vintners
Moore Stephens Markhams Marlborough Young Viticulturist 2013 Competition
AUGUST 1-4
The Food Show – Auckland
9
Spiegelau Wine Awards Dinner
25
Juice and Wine Oxidation Workshop. 10am – 12.30 –
OCTOBER 3
Wineworks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc Yacht Race to Wellington
22-23
Judging The Marlborough Wine Show
NOVEMBER 1-3
Marlborough Wine weekend – refer to www.winemarlborough.co.nz
4-7
Plant & Food Research Plant Dormancy Symposium – Auckland
9
Marlborough Wine Show Awards Dinner
The Vines, Petite Fleur at Seifried Estate – Nelson
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27
News From Home and Away Drinks Business Green Awards
twiddling their thumbs. Instead they have been busy developing
New Zealand had five finalists in the recent
a unique vineyard deep in the heart of the Awatere Valley.
Drinks Business Green Awards. Yealands
Loveblock is a total of 85 hectares, with 73 of those making up
Estates was a finalist in the Green Company
what is know as the Hillside block and 11 hectares forming the
of the Year category, as was Villa Maria.
Woolshed block. The Crawfords are not just growing Sauvignon
Both companies were also finalists in the
Blanc and Pinot Noir, although these do make up a large
Sustainability Award. While neither took top honours, New
percentage of the crop. They have also planted Pinot Gris, Pinot
Zealand Winegrowers did take out the Runner Up in the
Blanc, Tempranillo, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Muscato,
Sustainability Award, Generic Organisation. The winner overall
Saint Laurent and Riesling. The property is organic and the first
was California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. The judges
wines have just been released.
had this to say about SWNZ: “On a smaller scale than California but also highly impressive is the New Zealand Winegrower Sustainability policy, which has now incorporated 95% of the country’s producing land and encompasses seven key areas, including biodiversity and water management.” First Wine – Now Gardens Cloudy Bay my be famous in the UK for its wine, but now it is taking that fame one step further – right smack bang into the middle of the Chelsea Flower Show. The company is teaming
McAlpines Roundwood Limited
up with design legends Andrew Wilson and Gavin McWilliam to create a little bit of Marlborough paradise at this month’s iconic event. The garden itself will reflect the setting of Cloudy Bay’s Marlborough vineyards and will be titled The Cloudy Bay Discovery Garden. Apparently it will focus on terroir as well as water, highlighting it as an increasingly precious resource.
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To that end a stream is planned to run through the garden, representing the Wairau River. I wonder how the designers will manage to re-create the famous hills that have become synonymous with the Cloudy Bay label. New Crawford Venture It has been nearly 10 years since Kim and Erica Crawford sold their label to Canadian beverage company, Vincor. Since then the couple haven’t been sitting back,
Contact:
Grant Cathcart Phone 03 313 8339 Fax 03 313 3767 Mobile 021 511 460
roundwood@mcalpines.co.nz
Disclaimer: The views and articles that are expressed and appear in Winepress are those entirely those of contributors and in no way reflect the policy of the Marlborough Winegrowers. Any advice given, implied or suggested should be considered on its merits, and no responsibility can be taken for problems arising from the use of such information.
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The Official Magazine of Wine Marlborough
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