Wine Press Northwest Summer 2021 by Wine Press Northwest

ROSÉ JUDGING RE SULTS • CHEF SHARE S RECIPE S, PAIRINGS

SUMMER 2021

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Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

IN THIS ISSUE SUMMER 2021 | VOL. 23, NO. 2

20 08

COVER STORY Spend 72 hours in Northern Inland Puget Sound and soak in the flavors of Whatcom and Skagit counties.

THE WINE KNOWS BY ANDY PERDUE

Cover story — Page 20

PIQUETTE? YOU BET

OREGON WINE TALES

ROSÉ IN BLOOM

MATCH MAKERS

Explore the quintessential Northwest: the Mount Baker foothills

SWIRL, SNIFF & SIP BY KEN ROBERTSON Rosé is the wine of summer

Piquette? You Bet — Page 14

ELLEN ON WINE BY ELLEN LANDIS Wine industry leaders embrace branding to increase market share

Explore this highly qualffable, low-alcohol drink

Man cannot live on Pinot alone

Rhône varieties continue to rise

Former Speakeasy puts wine on display at Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery

Match Maker — Page 40

ON THE COVER Spend three days in Northern Inland Puget Sound, where the wine scene is as diverse as its georgraphy. See page 20. Rosé in Bloom — Page 34 6

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PHOTO BY RICHARD DUVAL

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. General Manager / Editor Jerry Hug jhug@tricityherald.com editor@winepressnw.com Editor In memoriam: Gregg McConnell Contributors Tamara Belgard Eric Degerman Sophia McDonald Dan Radil Columnists Ellen Landis Andy Perdue Ken Robertson Contributing photographers Josh Chang Richard Duval Jennifer King In memoriam: Bob Woehler Design Carey Norton Advertising sales Aaron Rindeikis (817) 291-3455 To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues per year. Mail check or money order to the address below, subscribe securely online at winepressnw.com or call customer service at 800-538-5619. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address 4253 W. 24th Ave., #120 Kennewick, WA 99338 © 2021 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

COLUMN | the wine knows

WINE LOVERS: EXPLORE MOUNT BAKER FOOTHILLS

mong my favorite corners of the Pacific Northwest is the Bellingham area, a mere 90 miles north of Seattle. It is the quintessential Northwest, with views of Puget Sound, the west-side forests and the region’s natural beauty. There’s nothing quite as great as getting lost along the roads of the Nooksack Valley on the way to Mount Baker. The drive up Chuckanut Drive south of Bellingham is among the classic byways in the Pacific Northwest, as iconic as driving down the coast on Highway 101. My introduction to the region came in the early 1980s while I was in journalism school at Western Washington University. The campus is nestled among the trees of the Sehome Arboretum, so walking to class each day was like strolling through a nature reserve. On clear days, Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan loom on the horizon with the same grandeur that Mount Rainier holds when it peeks through the clouds around Seattle and Tacoma. I loved exploring the shops and eateries in the funky Fairhaven section of town and admiring the outdoor sculptures scattered around the WWU campus. The Salish Sea salt air filled my lungs and made me glad to live there. Of course, one of Bellingham’s greatest benefits is its proximity to Vancouver, British Columbia, one of the world’s great cities. I didn’t appreciate that enough during my college years. My first introduction to alcohol was in Bellingham with Rainier Beer and later with my first favorite winemakers, Bartles & Jaymes — an ignominious beginning for sure, but memorable because of the good times surrounding them then and perspective that I can appreciate now. My last visit to Bellingham included a stroll along the waterfront’s boardwalk, followed by leisure time warming up with a steaming espresso in a nearby coffee shop. There’s a reason a cup of fancy coffee is one of the most clichéd Northwest experiences: because it’s fantastic.

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I will always remember April 2016, when Eric Degerman and I staged a wine event at Semiahmoo Resort north of Bellingham. That Northwest Wine Encounter experience along Birch Bay dripped with luxury, deliciously BY ANDY executed meals and PERDUE great local beer and wine. Bring your clubs and take advantage of the Arnold Palmerdesigned golf courses on the property. Among my favorite memories was sipping a fortified wine next to a campfire on the beach in front of the resort. Looking for a regional postCOVID getaway? This is it. Those visiting the region specifically for wine touring now will find plenty of delightful options, starting near Lake Stevens with Bayernmoor Cellars — a young program led by decorated winemaker Brian Carter — and continuing north through the Skagit Valley to the border near storied Samson Estates. A number of the wineries that I chronicled two decades ago in The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook are no longer in business. However, their work helped provide hope and inspiration for others to follow. Among my favorites to visit was Mount Baker Vineyards, a fascinating site in Deming established in 1978 by Al Stratton. Stratton produced plum wine that he found a market for in Japan and sold the winery to Randy Finley a decade later. Finley, a former movie theater owner, made Mount Baker Vineyards successful with cool-climate grapes such as Madeleine Angevine and Siegerrebe while also working with noble varieties grown in Eastern Washington. Before he retired in 2016, Finley grew the operation into a 6,000-case brand just 20 minutes from the border crossing at Sumas. British Columbia has traditionally welcomed the wine tourist with the Fraser Valley, a grape-growing region that follows the course of its namesake river, and with luck and COVID-19 willing, soon will again. Some

of the grapes are grown here, and some are brought in from the Okanagan Valley over the Cascade Mountains. This might even lure you to visit the Okanagan, which is rich in wineries, restaurants and wine culture. If you purchase any wines in British Columbia, be prepared to pay a small amount of duty upon your return to the United States, but this beautiful region is well worth the effort to visit. But back to Bellingham. We are noticing small vineyards popping up in Skagit and Whatcom counties. These are traditionally agricultural areas, so the inclusion of wine grapes is an extension of the culture already in place. With climates similar to the Willamette Valley, it seems natural that this is the next region of the Northwest for grape growers to explore by taking cues from the work done in Oregon the past 30 years. Ample wide-open spaces and available resources could lead to this being an exciting new viticultural area. Work already has started as a jumping-off point, so expansion alongside an infrastructure of winemaking expertise could quickly spur more development. Wineries near Bellingham and on Bainbridge and Whidbey islands could be the leaders in a new chapter in Washington’s winemaking history. The region bears a striking resemblance to California’s Anderson Valley, which also could be a source of expertise and inspiration. Additionally, the region already is part of the Puget Sound American Viticultural Area, so much of the hard work has been done. The next decade should be quite interesting in the north end of the Puget Sound, and there are plenty of wine lovers in Western Washington looking for emerging regions to explore. Andy Perdue is the founding editor of Wine Press Northwest. A stroke survivor, Andy lives in the heart of Washington wine country with his wife, teenage daughter, three cats and a pandemic rescue dog.

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

COLUMN | swirl, sniff & sip

ROSÉ – THE WINE OF SUMMER

f there’s a red wine grape that can’t be made into a darn good rosé for summer sipping, it seems likely a Northwest winemaker may find it first. Our region’s wineries annually seem to find new varietals well suited to satisfy our ever-growing appetite for pink wines to pair with cheeses, cured meats, Mediterranean olives and an array of other treats perfect for the patio or deck. This edition’s evaluation of 99 Northwest rosés offers abundant proof of that. Just about a decade back, the Northwest’s best rosés were rather scarce and most likely to be made from Sangiovese or Pinot Noir, but as demand regularly began to outstrip supply, winemakers turned to other grapes. A few years back, to keep Kiona Vineyards tasting room stocked with pink wine, the Williams family, who pioneered the planting of wine grapes in what’s now known as the Red Mountain AVA, made three — from Sangiovese, Mourvèdre and Syrah — to meet the demands of their summer sippers. Two of them had sold out by summer’s end. At Barnard Griffin Winery in Richland, which is often credited with leading Washington’s rosé resurgence, Rob Griffin’s first, rather small experimental vintage of Rosé of Sangiovese was made because Sangiovese grapes from his good friend Maury Balcom’s vineyard weren’t making particularly fine red wine. The pretty and delicious rosé that replaced it sold out within weeks, well before summer’s end. The next year, Griffin made more, which also sold out rapidly. He has since built that rosé into the largest seller at his winery, reaching 25% of total sales. Such stories have made it almost mandatory for Northwest wineries to add high-quality rosé to their wine lists. Rosé’s surging popularity has since created a fascinating array of pink wines made from almost every red wine grape grown in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia. In addition to Sangiovese and Pinot Noir, search hard enough, and you’ll find examples 10

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made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec, all grapes originally grown in Bordeaux. Oregon has led the way with Rosé of Pinot Noir, but the rest of the Northwest followed its example. BY KEN I’ve also tasted ROBERTSON Northwest rosés made from several other wine grapes native to Burgundy, including Pinot Gris, Pinot Meunier and Gamay. The Rhône region of France has contributed grapes for rosés made from Syrah, Grenache, Counoise, Cinsaut and Petite Sirah. Joining them from Italy are Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo and Zinfandel, although Zin also is claimed by Croatia-Bosnia-Herzegovina. Vines of Spanish origin have contributed Garnacha (another name for Grenache), Tempranillo and Mataro (another name for Mourvèdre.) The Lemberger grape, originally from Austria and a favorite of famed wine researcher Dr. Walter Clore, also makes a delightful rosé. Even Touriga Naçional, the Portuguese grape usually found in Port wines, has been made into a dry rosé here. Germany is the source for the grapes of a Früburgunder rosé, although it’s technically a French grape, Pinot Noir Précoce, a dark, blue-skinned mutation of Pinot Noir. The U.S. also gets credit for at least one of the Spring Edition’s rosés, Frontenac, which is a hybrid grape created by researchers at the University of Minnesota seeking a cold-hardy grape. And it’s a sure bet there are at least a few more red varieties being made into rosé that most of us haven’t encountered. That’s all the more reason to explore Northwest wineries and wine shops. You’re sure to encounter an array of colors, starting with wines that display just a shimmer of pink color, then moving from bright bubble gum pink to as red as a rasp-

berry. A few likely will stray off into hues of bronze or pale orange. If you have friends who still insist they don’t drink rosé, it’s time to introduce them to the Northwest’s versions, which can range from bracingly spare to slightly sweet, and please almost any palate. Most will sport the region’s signature racy acidity in a package that’s our quasi-official wine of summer — our glorious rosé. WINE WORD: PYRAZINES Many think of pyrazines as a problem in wine, but they are among “the most important groups of aromatic compounds found in grapes,” according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encylopedia. How can they be viewed as a problem, but “most important?” Well, they typically call to mind vegetative aromas such as bell peppers, green peas and even asparagus and are an indication that overwatered grape vines produced a large, leafy canopy that shielded the grapes from the sun and its warmth too much, producing a less than perfectly ripe crop. Pyrazines tend to drop out as grapes ripen, thus properly ripened clusters of grapes produce wines with little or no evident “green” character. That said, pyrazines do have their place. They are critical to a well-made Sauvignon Blanc — think gooseberry/grassy — which help make it one of the most aromatic of wine grapes. And fine Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon or Carménère depends for its character on a perfect balance of ripeness that maintains a small degree of “green” but not too much. When you smell the leafy, earthy and aromatic character associated with all three — in varying amounts, of course — it’s also a reminder that Cab Franc is the parent of both Carménère and Cab Sauv. Ken Robertson, the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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COLUMN | ellen on wine

AUGMENTED REALITY BRANDING FOR WINE – WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT? ith so many distractions around us today and competition for our attention, how does one reach today’s wine customers, hold their attention and then earn their long-term loyalty? It’s an especially vital issue during the pandemic. An emerging point of view suggests that augmented reality (AR) may be a viable solution to branding and engagement for a wide variety of both the wine curious and the wine connoisseur. Have you seen AR in action online, at a winery, retail store, bar or restaurant? In a nutshell, AR technology uses your phone to brings wine labels to life. How does it work? Unlike QR codes, at which you can point your smartphone camera and a link pops up for you to click to view a website, for AR experiences, you typically need to download an AR wine label app onto your phone. From there, you point the phone at the label, and video content will spring to life from the label, seen through your phone screen. It could deliver fanciful, entertaining content or enlightening, educational content, such as personal stories from a winemaker about his or her wines, winery, winemaking style, oak program, viticultural practices, vineyard management or appellation. AR apps are available via the Apple App store or Google Play store. What can AR achieve? Wine industry marketing leaders find that it can broaden exposure, keep the brand in the mind of the customer and increase market share. During pandemic times, when consumers are shopping online and using their mobile devices significantly more than ever, a bit of entertainment is often welcome. And augmented reality branding for wine seems to have merit (reported increases in sales for many brands support that notion). But is it a gimmick? Will it withstand the test of time? Will the masses pick up their phones and try to search for it on the internet, or spend time at a retail store seeking out AR

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labels? In the wine world, Australia-based Treasury Wine Estates (TWE) was the first to introduce the concept in 2017 when it created The Living Wine Labels app to propel its 19 Crimes brand labels into BY ELLEN action. This “living” LANDIS label features depictions of real criminals who were accused of crimes centuries ago and sent to Australia. It created quite a positive vibe, and sales soared. Since then, TWE broadened out with action labels across multiple brands. The Last Wine Co.’s The Walking Dead brand, with its Blood Red Wine and Cabernet Sauvignon AR labels, is action packed. Pointing the app at both labels side by side initiates a battle between a gunfighter and a zombie. Additional Treasury Wine Estates brands offering AR content include Sonoma Valley’s Chateau St. Jean, where longtime talented winemaker Margo Van Staaveren shares a delightful wine-made-for-two story; Napa Valley’s Beringer Vineyard, whose label includes engaging winery chats between the Beringer brothers; Lindeman’s Gentleman’s Collection, offering a gentleman’s guide to AR by founder Dr. Henry Lindeman; and EMBRAZEN Wines, whose AR wine labels support the women’s movement by featuring extraordinary historical women. In California, Rabble Wine Estates, established in 2010 by Paso Robles-based vineyard manager Rob Murray, was recently acquired by O’Neill Vintners &amp; Distillers. In 2018, prior to the acquisition, Rob put his labels in motion with augmented reality technology. The Rabble Wine app unveils stories from mythology and apocalyptic events, including awakening scenes and sounds of the forces of nature. O’Neill Vintners also launched its Line 39

WHAT CAN AR ACHIEVE? WINE INDUSTRY MARKETING LEADERS FIND THAT IT CAN BROADEN EXPOSURE, KEEP THE BRAND IN THE MIND OF THE CUSTOMER AND INCREASE MARKET SHARE. AR app for its popular premium brand of Line 39 wines from California and hit the jackpot, achieving double-digit sales growth over multiple consecutive years. Its labels evoke summer dreams of vacationing across America’s 39th parallel. Winerytale, another AR platform developed in Australia and launched in early 2020, aims to enhance the experience between customers and wineries. Once a winery is registered with the app, customers can hear the vintner’s unique story, tour the winery, access technical details, view property photo, and other details a winery chooses to share. Winerytale has also introduced a new feature that allows those whose home base is in another country to translate the bottle details into their language. Third Aurora, the technical gurus behind the Winerytale platform, takes it a step further with technology to allow codeless AR scanning for other packaging types, including bottles, cans, boxes and more. This technology allows users an extremely easy way to add and update content such as text, images and videos at any time. In Washington, Airfield Estates winery and estate vineyards, with brother-sister team Marcus Miller and Lori Stevens overseeing daily operations, has deep family roots in Yakima Valley, Washington state’s first established AVA. Airfield Estates’ three Washington tasting rooms are in Prosser, Woodinville and Vancouver, where the newest one opened last year. Winemaker Travis Maple has tried the AR

COLUMN | ellen on wine app, which is under consideration by their team. “Both new and existing customers can benefit from AR technology with wine labels,” Maple said. “It can be a fun and educational experience. We can list anything from winemaking details to winery history, all by scanning a label.” There are other wineries in Washington and Oregon showing interest, so more AR labels may be rolling out across the Northwest soon. You may wonder how many wine consumers will spend time in retail shops, bars or online searching for AR labels. I do, too. But seeing labels come to life is a pretty cool experience. I think it has merit and may eventually be more common than we might expect, particularly as new, tech- and mediasavvy generations of wine consumers enter the market. ELLEN LANDIS is a wine journalist, certified sommelier, Certified Wine Specialist, wine educator and professional wine judge. Reach Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com.

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Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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FEATURES | piquette

Submitted

A collection of Oregon piquettes shows diversity in both color and style.

PIQUETTE? YOU BET! By Tamara Belgard n winemaking, there seem to be a million ways to turn grapes into a bottled beverage. Some hardly use any grapes at all. Piquette is among those. It takes a detour on its way to becoming grappa, the distilled Italian high-alcohol drink made from the pomace left over after grapes are crushed. Like grappa, piquette is made by adding water to the leftover grape skins, stems and seeds and is fermented, using up any remaining sugars. Unlike grappa, the resulting product is a

I 14

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highly quaffable, low-alcohol drink that’s a midway between wine and hard seltzer, clocking in at roughly 6 percent alcohol. Beer enthusiasts might refer to it as a session wine. Some argue that technically, piquette is not wine at all. And according to Craig Camp, general manager of Troon Vineyard, “Piquette is many things, but basically it’s frugal farmer fizz, a type of natural wine that has been made for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Those frugal farmers wasted nothing, and used the juice and skins left after pressing the wines they would sell to make wine for themselves and their workers. “All the different names I’ve heard it

called signify the many differing opinions. Some call it wine or petit vin, others call it wine-drink, wine-light, or wine-adjacent. I’ve even heard some consumers refer to it as ‘wine’s sloppy seconds’ and ‘the White Claw of wine.” Perhaps the subject is more polarizing than politics. And yet in Oregon, producers are hedging their bets, selling out their small lots in record time and increasing their production. Piquette can be made in many styles. Some are effervescent, some red, some white and some rosé in color. “There are even producers that add nongrape fruits as an added sugar source to boost flavor and alcohol,” says Chad Stock, winemaker and co-owner of Limited Addition. “I recently came across a producer that is steeping fresh herbs in theirs. I have yet to come across a more loose category of wine and the potential really excites me, but it makes me concerned about the quality of experience for the consumers as well. “Education is going to be critical and the quality of the product must start with a very

FEATURES | piquette

Fossil & Fawn’s playful personality comes through in both their label and their Piquette. Submitted

Submitted

Fossil & Fawn’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir pomace (including stems) is in a small fermenter during its first stage of piquette production after being rehydrated with water.

high bar the same way that all wine is treated in the Willamette Valley,” he added. While the category — and whether the market is embracing it yet — may not be crystal clear, what is true is that for winemakers and consumers who value sustainability and environmental responsibility, this age-old method of using everything a harvest delivers makes perfect sense. Is there anything more sustainable than “upcycling” — creating another product from raw materials that would have gone to waste? The pomace would normally just be composted, but finding another use for the leftovers produces something fun, tasty and profitable.

“We are finding the market’s perception to be inquisitive, adventurous and properly timed for the healthy lifestyle culture that seems to be expanding quickly in America.” Stock says. “This is a concept that people want, and if we can deliver on the quality of the product, people will, and already are, going to receive it really, really well. Our first batch sold out in a matter of days through distribution in several states, opening our eyes to a truly national demand for piquette.” Camp, who saw an article about piquette but had never heard of it, forwarded the article to Troons winemaker Nate Wall and said it looked like fun. A few months later, they

made their first piquette. “It was interesting as we made this wine the first time without ever having tasted a piquette. That gave us the artistic freedom to create our own version, which we make with quite a bit of actual juice. That’s part of the fun of something like piquette — it is what you want it to be.” From a business sustainability standpoint, piquette is the ultimate gift-horse. Jenny Mosbacher, co-owner of Fossil & Fawn explains, “Producers are taking a ‘waste’ product and turning it into something they can sell. Grapes are, by a wide margin, the most expensive component in a winery’s per-bottle cost. So, in a sense, the pomace is free, because they’ve already worked the grape costs into their actual wine production.” Resourceful producers relish in the opportunity to use good grapes in every way they can that’s approachable in style and price point. That said, there are definitely still budgetary aspects to consider. Sparkling wine bottles are expensive, so some wineries put their piquette into cans to mitigate the bottle cost, and since the federal government considers it “sparkling wine,” wineries pay higher excise taxes. But piquette wasn’t created as a beverage to utilize winemaking waste. Nor was it made Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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FEATURES | piquette Cary Willeford and Jessica Wilmes bottle Troon Vineyards’ first piquette. Submitted

PIQUETTE ORIGINALLY WAS CREATED IN ANCIENT TIMES TO USE WINEMAKING WASTE AS A DRINK FOR SLAVES AND FARMING COMMUNITIES THAT COULDN’T AFFORD THE WINE THEY WERE MAKING. THE NAME, WHICH COMES FROM THE FRENCH WORD FOR ‘PRICK’ OR ‘PRICKLE’ AND REFERS TO ITS FIZZY NATURE. NOW, IT AIMS TO BREAK THROUGH COST BARRIERS TO BE “THE PEOPLE’S WINE.” to appeal to a new generation of drinkers seeking a new great thing. Piquette was created for the viticultural community who couldn’t actually afford the wine they were making. According to the Wine Enthusiast, “Derived from the French word for ‘prick’ or ‘prickle,’ which describes the drink’s slight fizz, piquette dates to ancient Greek and Roman times, when it was known as lora. Considered a meager, cheap-to-produce drink made from the scraps of winemaking, it was given to slaves and field workers.” As wine prices have continued to climb over the years, making wine something of a luxury good and collector’s item that can signify status and exclusivity, piquette became and could again be a drink that breaks

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through such barriers, a “people’s wine.” Andrew Young, winemaker of St. Reginal Parish observes, “When wine is too much, and water is too little, there is piquette. This wine-like beverage has been around since the dawn of time but is experiencing a revival in the states, in large part due to the efforts of our friends Wild Arc Farm in New York.” So, while it’s a production style that has been around for ages, perhaps its renaissance can be attributed to a consumer who’s more educated and demands more and different products, especially millennials and “natural wine” drinkers. There is also a great interest right now in lower-alcohol beverages, so piquette offers a mid-point between wine and hard seltzer. And for those eager for a product that reduces environmental impact, piquette is perfection. Approach it like pétillant naturel; it’s likely to be quirky, whimsical, perhaps even a bit funky and appreciate that it’s a product winemakers can be more playful with. It’s like the dive bar of wines; no hoity toity, high-brow pretense, no pomp and circumstance. If you’re a wine purist, expecting to drink something that tastes and ages like fine wine, it’s sure to let you down. If it’s a hot summer day and you’re looking for a ridiculously affordable, low-alcohol porch pounder that supports your core of sustainable ethics, pour yourself a glass or two of piquette. Just don’t think of it as wine. TAMARA BELGARD is a freelance writer based in Portland, Ore. She is a regular contributor to SatiatePDX.com and several Northwest publications.

FEATURES | piquette

HERE ARE SOME RECENT EXAMPLES OF PIQUETTE CHO WINES 2020 Pique Me Piquette, $20: Made from their 2020 Blanc de Noirs sparkling press pomace, this smoky beverage pairs well with campfires, backyard BBQs and woodfired pizza. Fossil & Fawn 2020 “Forgiveness is Divine but Never Pay Full Price for Late Pizza”, $15: Tastes of red Otter Pop (which, is technically strawberry in some alternate universe of fake flavorings), cranberry sauce from a can, with some green peppercorn and leather from the stem inclusion. The texture is light, bright (surprisingly!) with a frothy fizz. Golden Cluster 2020 Dionystic, $20: 100% Syrah, this still version is a piquette for wine drinkers. There’s an aromatic explosion of dried herbs, fall leaves, dried cherries and a whiff of oldgrowth forest. Pair with an array of Spanishinspired tapas and friends. Limited Addition 2020 Public Service Piquette, $18: 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Grenache from the Willamette Valley, this still version of piquette is more winelike in style, just lighter on its feet. It’s fruity and floral with flavor intensity, tannic texture, and enhanced body. Redolent 2020 Tiquette’s Piquette, $18: Made from the pomace of a coferment of Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, it’s a bubbly, savory and herbaceous party in your mouth. Roots 2019 Lora Sauvignon Blanc Piquette, $16: Available in small cans, it’s easydrinking and effervescent with pleasant aromas of patchouli and Muscat. St. Reginald Parish 2020, $16: The Marigny Piquette “Wine Like Beverage” is like your favorite fizzy water embedded with the memories of your favorite Marigny wine. Tart raspberry and black cherry mingle with recollections of floating the river and reading in the sun. Troon Vineyards 2020 Piquette, $25: Made from Biodynamic grapes spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts and no additives of any kind, it’s fresh and fizzy with bright fruit and flavors of kombucha. Perfect for picnics and summer sipping or better yet, gulping.

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FEATURE | oregon wine tales

A MAN CANNOT LIVE ON PINOT ALONE Oregon Gamay growing in popularity By Sophia McDonald inot Noir and the Willamette Valley are so tightly entwined in people’s minds that they sometimes forget there are other red grapes twisting up trellises in Oregon. For those looking for some variety in the state’s top wine region, Gamay Noir may be just the thing. The grape most closely associated with France’s Beaujolais region is showing up more often and winning over both winemakers and wine drinkers. Gamay has been grown successfully in Oregon since 1987. Myron Radford at Amity Vineyards in Amity and Doug Tunnell at Brick House Wines in Newberg were among its early proponents.

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“(They) were the ones who showed us that Gamay was a variety that made sense here and could be done at high levels,” said Scott Frank, owner of Bow & Arrow Wines in Portland. “They kind of quietly did that for years and years and nobody paid much attention.” By the early 2000s, a few things started to change. As much as visitors to the Willamette Valley loved the Pinot Noir, there was also a desire to offer them something else to try. “When you go to a tasting room and all they have is Pinot, it gets pretty boring,” said Dr. Allen Methven with Methven Family Vineyards in Dayton. “This gives people a choice.” “Don’t get me wrong — I like Pinot,” said Jason Hanson with Hanson Vineyards in

BOW & ARROW

Gamay from Bow & Arrow in Portland.

Woodburn. “It’s been very good to us over the years. But a man cannot live on Pinot alone. Finding some other things we could grow in the red department was something we were really looking for. Gamay has been a great fit.” The grape is easier to grow than famously finicky Pinot Noir, which vineyard managers appreciate. “Gamay thrives in volcanic and iron-rich soils,” said Thomas Monroe, who owns Division Wine Co. in Portland with his business partner, Kate Norris. (They also co-founded the I Love Gamay festival, which typically takes place in May but may offer some inperson tastings later this year.) “Our climate here is really well-suited for a lot of northern French varieties.” Gamay faces less disease pressure and produces slightly higher yields than Pinot. There was also a demographic and attitude change that happened in Oregon around the turn of the millennium. Many of Oregon’s early winemakers came to the Willamette Valley with the intention of creating worldclass Pinot Noir. The people who came later often had a broader vision for what Oregon could produce. Monroe and Norris went to winemaking school in Beaujolais, so they developed a fondness for Gamay early in their careers. When they opened Division Wine in 2010, a lot of other young winemakers were also just

FEATURE | oregon wine tales

METHVEN FAMILY VINEYARDS

Allen Methven, owner of Methven Family Vineyards in Dayton, which has one of the largest plantings of Gamay Noir in Oregon. JOSH CHANG

JOSH CHANG

starting out. “They, too, had experience with grapes other than Pinot Noir that they thought could work well here,” Monroe said. “Gamay was just one that worked especially well.” Gamay is beloved by both winemakers and consumers. The grapes typically produce a light-bodied wine with notable fruit flavors such as raspberry and cherry. Aromas and flavors such as violets and earth may show up to add complexity. It’s good lightly chilled or at room temperature. While it’s known as a food-friendly wine, it can also be enjoyed on its own. Gamay is made in several styles in the Willamette Valley. “I would say that in Oregon, the majority of it has been made more in the traditional approach that Pinot Noir has been made with,” said Monroe. “I think that’s what a lot of the winemakers have familiarity and comfort with.” That’s something Frank hopes will change in coming years. “The future of Gamay is for people to figure out how to make the wine that Gamay wants to be,” he said. “Gamay is a completely different variety that needs to be made in its own unique way to say what Gamay has to say.” More traditional takes on Gamay Noir are

Thomas Monroe and Kate Norris, coowners of Division Wine Company in Portland.

beginning to show up in Oregon — including from many of these producers. But they aren’t the only wines gracing tasting room counters. Frank, along with winemakers such as Matt Berson of Love & Squalor at the Portland Wine Co. and Terry Brandborg in the Umpqua Valley, occasionally produce a Beaujolais Nouveau-style wine. Both Frank and Hanson are making a Cheverny-style blend that’s 50% Gamay and 50% Pinot Noir. Gamay can also be used for beautiful, delicate rosés. Bow & Arrow and Methven Family Vineyards are a few of the producers making still wines with the grape. Stedt Wines in Carlton does a sparkling rosé of Gamay Noir, and Swick Wines in Newberg makes a Gamay pét-nat. It is unlikely that Gamay will eclipse Pinot Noir in popularity in Oregon. For one thing, there still isn’t much of it. The Oregon Wine Board reports there were 116 acres planted to Gamay in 2018, a that number had grown to 128 acres by 2019. But its star is definitely rising. Frank noted that the price he’s paying for Gamay has

Gamay Noir grapes from Oregon.

increased by at least 50% since he started purchasing it in 2011. Methven, who boasts one of the largest plantings of Gamay in the Willamette Valley, said the grapes are the most sought-after one he sells. His Gamay wine is the No. 1 seller in his tasting room. “I would be surprised if Gamay didn’t continue to flourish,” Monroe said. “It’s not ever going to be what Pinot Noir is, nor do I think it should be, but it still has a lot of upward mobility before the market says there’s enough Gamay.” Sophia McDonald is new to Wine Press Northwest, but she’s not new to the wine industry. Her work has appeared in more than three dozen newspapers, magazines and trade publications including TheAtlantic.com, Eating Well, Wine Enthusiast, VinePair, Cheese Connoisseur, Live Naturally, VIA, and Oregon Wine Press. She enjoys writing about food, wine, farming, cooking, nutrition, travel, sustainability and business. Oregon Wine Tales for Wine Press Northwest will focus on Oregon wines and wineries. Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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72 HOURS IN NORTHERN INLAND PUGET SOUND

The Inland Puget Sound region offers something for just about everyone.

FEATURES | 72 hours By Dan Radil eatly tucked away in the northwest corner of Washington’s Inland Puget Sound region sit Whatcom and Skagit counties. Each is somewhat rectangular in shape, Whatcom stacked atop Skagit. Together, the two share a remarkably similar geography. The eastern portion of each county is dominated by the North Cascades, a mountainous, forested and largely undisturbed wilderness area. Moving west, the mountains flatten into fertile farmland, meshing with the region’s cities and towns that dot the valleys and hug the waters of Puget Sound. The wine scene here is as diverse as its landscape, and while most wineries in the two-county area primarily use grapes from Eastern Washington, a handful produce wines from locally grown grapes that thrive in cooler climates. Some have also had great success with fruit wines, most of which are grown on local farms. In short, the Inland Puget Sound region is a natural wonderland that operates at a slower pace, supports a diverse population base, and, most importantly for wine enthusiasts, offers something for just about everyone.

city of about 15,000 with a small-town feel, tucked into the Nooksack Valley. The valley is the heart of the county’s agricultural area, where dairy farms and raspberry fields dominate the landscape. (Whatcom County leads the nation in red raspberry production.) In the far northwest corner of the county is Birch Bay and the city of Blaine, the last stops before crossing the U.S.-Canadian border. WINERIES Margarita Vartanyan of Vartanyan Estate winery was born and raised in Siberia, and at first blush, she might seem to be an unlikely candidate for the Washington wine industry. But the owner/winemaker has connections with family who have centuries of winemaking experience, and after moving to the Bellingham area in 2002, she opened her tasting room in 2008 with a nod to her heritage by incorporating use of oak barrels in some wines from the former Soviet Union. “Technically, the barrels are not Russian, they’re Georgian (now independent from the Soviet Union),” she said with a smile. “But I call them Russian; otherwise there would be too much confusion with the state.” She notes that the oak trees in Georgia are

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Margarita Vartanyan, owner/winemaker of Vartanyan Estate Winery, salutes her heritage by incorporating Georgian barrels in her wine program.

WHATCOM COUNTY With a population of nearly 95,000, Bellingham is the area’s largest city and the hub of Whatcom County. The city’s downtown core was nearly decimated in the mid-1980s with the opening of Bellis Fair Mall north of town. But karma has kicked in over the last decade; mall stores have shuttered while the downtown district has seen a resurgence. Hip restaurants, brewpubs and boutique clothiers have returned to the area and are part of Bellingham’s vibrant urban scene. Frequently included in top-10 lists as one of the country’s most livable cities, Bellingham has become an even more desirable location in today’s “work-from-home” environment, attracting new residents eager to escape the congestion of nearby metropolitan areas. The city is also home to Western Washington University. In addition, Bellingham’s extensive trail system, bike-friendly streets and proximity to both Mount Baker and several lakes, rivers and streams make it an outdoor recreationist’s dream. Head farther north to the city of Ferndale, and then on to Lynden, a Dutch-influenced

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Winemaker Peter Osvaldik has been a fixture in Whatcom County since 2006 when he opened Dynasty Cellars.

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Dynasty Cellars Tasting Room

influenced by soil and climate conditions that translate into subtleties in the barrels produced there. “In my view (the Russian oak) is closer to French oak. It is softer, with more vanilla and spice than American oak,” she said. Her use of all three types of oak is at the forefront of her winemaking style. “I use new barrels as much as possible … and try to age 22

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(the reds) at least three years.” She’s also not afraid to rely on input from her wine club members’ palates to determine the varietals that go into her blends, and she’s had great success using that approach to determine the final bottling. A couple of recent examples, her consumer preference-inspired 2017 Syrah aged in American oak, another Syrah in Russian,

French and American oak, and a 2015 Carménère aged in French oak, have all captured gold medals at the Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival Judged Competition. Vartanyan is also proud of her Trilogia (Russian for “trilogy’), which she considers to be the flagship wine that put her winery on the map. The Trilogia is always a blend of three varietals, aged separately in three types of oak barrels and then blended with what she refers to as three types of winemaking components: knowledge, family tradition and passion. Varntanyan’s new releases for 2021 include the 2017 Trilogia blend of Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2020 Cabernet Rosé and a stunning 2020 Sweet Riesling with a picture-perfect balance of fruit, acidity and residual sugar. Visitors to the winery, just a 10-minute drive northeast of Bellingham, can expect beautiful views of nearby Mount Baker while enjoying a bottle or glass in either the tasting room or outside on the patio or landscaped hillside. Like Vartanyan, Peter Osvaldik of Dynasty Cellars also had a cross-continental journey into Whatcom County winemaking, albeit under entirely different circumstances.

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Housed in an old garage just a few minutes from the US-Canadian border, GLM Wine Company is the furthest north of Washington wineries. He and his wife Olga fled what was then Czechoslovakia in 1983 to escape the oppression of the Communist regime. Using vacation privileges, they left everything behind to enter Yugoslavia (now Croatia), where they waited in a United Nations underground facility for Eastern Bloc refugees. After 2-1/2 months, they received permission from a U.S. embassy to come to America. They moved from California to Bellingham in 1990, and while working as a custom cabinetmaker, Peter continued to draw on his multi-generational family history of winemaking to produce wines for home consumption. It was after the couple began to obtain their grapes from the Tri-Cities that things “got out of control,” so to speak. “That was the beginning of the vortex that sucked us in,” Peter laughed. “It was a hobby gone wild.” Dynasty Cellars was established in 1995 and the winery’s first commercial release followed in 2006. Today, the Osvaldiks buy all of their grapes from the Walla Walla Valley’s Les Collines Vineyard. Peter refers to it as their “one-stop shopping” location because the vineyard produces so many high-quality varieties. His forté has always been producing full-

bodied red wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Syrah top the list, and his 2016 Malbec is one of the current best sellers. Red blends have also been popular, and the DC3, which Peter considers his flagship wine, is always a combination of Bordeaux varietals that varies from year to year. For those who prefer a lighter-bodied blend, the affordably priced “Irresponsible” label is another consistent consumer favorite. Other wine choices often include Riesling, Chardonnay and a rosé-style Riesling made with a splash of Malbec. The Osvaldiks opened an outdoor patio to the tasting room last year, and Peter will add a wood-fired pizza oven this summer. An on-site commercial kitchen remodel is also almost complete, allowing them to expand their existing food menu for visitors. The customers who regularly line up outside Dynasty Cellars’ tasting room before it opens on Fridays and Saturdays are evidence the Osvaldiks’ wines are popular. “We don’t treat our customers as customers; we treat them as friends,” Peter noted. That begins with, “What can I pour for you?” and continues with robust wines served in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Husband-and-wife owners/winemakers Tom Davis and Tracey DeGraff of GLM

As an essential worker, GLM owner/winemaker Tom Davis navigates the border crossing several times a week — “the border guards sure know me.” Wine Co., both have backgrounds in the food and beverage industry: DeGraff works at the Westin Bayshore in Vancouver, B.C.; Davis was brewmaster at one of Canada’s first microbreweries in the early 1990s before moving into winemaking. GLM stands for Glacial Lake Missoula. The couple opened their tasting room in Blaine in 2006, and from the onset, they’ve developed a reputation for making their wines just a bit differently. To keep their wines from being too high in alcohol, Davis notes they don’t harvest above 25 Brix. They also acidify their wines at crush rather than just prior to bottling to maintain high acid/low pH levels throughout winemaking. Davis has also made “enrobed wines,” in which the juice of a red grape is removed before its skins are added to the juice of a white grape during fermentation. In the past, he used the process to make a Marsanne fermented with the skins of Cabernet Sauvignon, and for 2021 he’s considering combining Syrah skins with Viognier juice. Another possible wine in the works is a resinated wine (as in Greek retsina), in which they’ll ferment Viognier and Gewürztraminer augmenting it with resin from local cedar or pine trees. “It should go well with oysters and other seafood,” Davis said. While 2020 was a year many would like to

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Samson Estates’ raspberry vines flourish in the Whatcom County environment.

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Samson Estates manager Becci Comley displays the winery’s artisan fruit wines – raspberry, blueberry and blackberry – as well traditional grape varietals.

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forget because of the pandemic, it initially brought an added dilemma for Davis and DeGraff, who live in Richmond, B.C., just south of Vancouver. Davis said for the first eight weeks of the U.S./Canada border shutdown he was unable to get to the winery in Blaine. It was only after he was determined to be an “essential worker” that he was able to come and go freely. “It was a grim year, but we’ve made it. And with nobody coming across, (the border patrol) has gotten to know me pretty well,” he says with a chuckle. For 2021, visitors to the GLM tasting room can expect a 2018 Sauvignon Blanc plus two new Pinot Noir releases — a nouveau-style with no oak aging and a dry rosé. Both Pinots were sourced from the Rattlesnake Hills American Viticultural Area. Samson Estates Winery, headed by owner/winemaker Rob Dahliwal, opened its tasting room in 2002, and when decades-old Mount Baker Vineyards closed a few years ago, Samson became Whatcom County’s oldest open-to-the-public winery. The winery is a few miles southeast of

Lynden on the nearly 500-acre family farm that grows raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and black currants. Samson’s intoxicatingly fragrant raspberry wine is a perennial favorite of customers and the winery’s best seller; and with Dahliwal growing up on the farm and having an extensive background working with the fruit, it’s no wonder. “I know what a raspberry should taste like,” he said. “We grow several different varieties on the farm, and there are certain ones that work better as wine.” One misconception about fruit wines is their one-dimensionality. Traditional wine drinkers often think of them as overbearingly sweet, fruity and clumsy food-pairing partners for anything except dessert. Dahliwal disagrees with that. For starters, he said that he can control the acid and sugar in each batch of fruit, which allows him to produce two distinct styles of fruit wine based on sweetness. His artisan fruit wines generally have a residual sugar content ranging from 2 to 4 percent; and his artisan dessert wines, which

FEATURES | 72 hours are balanced with alcohol fortification, usually run from about 9 to 14 percent. Samson’s dessert wines do indeed pair beautifully with cheesecake or chocolate truffles, and Dahliwal also suggests trying the winery’s Oro Hazelnut wine (similar to a lighter style Frangelico liqueur) with tiramisu. But the artisan fruit wines can work well with a surprising range of foods as well, including grilled salmon, barbeque chicken, pork tenderloin and a variety of cheeses. The tasting room menu also offers varietals grown in Eastern Washington vineyards, including Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot. For those planning a visit, Samson Estates’ manager Becci Comley encourages guests to pack a picnic and relax on the estate grounds or patio. An outdoor pavilion is available for weddings and special events, and Comley notes they are working on booking a series of rock concerts for later this year. RESTAURANTS & WINE SHOPS Cosmos Bistro, Bellingham – Owner/ chef Cinnamon Berg takes great pride in showcasing fresh, locally sourced ingredients whenever possible at her downtown Bellingham restaurant. Thoughtfully prepared “comfort food” options include meatloaf or pork adobo served with a side of seasonal roasted vegetables. She also features a weekend brunch that is legendary with area foodies. Need a glass or bottle of wine with lunch or dinner? A succinct wine list includes choices from Pacific Northwest wineries. Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery, Ferndale – For many, this is the restaurant to go to in Ferndale. Business partners Robert Pinkley, Brett Wiltse and Amberleigh Brownson have teamed up to feature a menu that specializes in Italian cuisine from start to finish, including antipasti, soups, entrees and desserts. But the restaurant truly shines with its wine menu, managed by sommelier Brownson, and honored with Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence in 2019, 2020 and 2021. Multicourse wine dinners moderated by Northwest winemakers are frequently scheduled. The Vault Wine Bar & Bistro, Blaine – The menu of this contemporary-styled restaurant is touted as “creative, chic food,” and has included items such as Yukon Gold potato-glazed chicken wings, cabbage gnocchi and a half-pound smoked burger blend of bison, Wagyu beef, elk and wild boar. The current wine list boasts over 250 selections. Seifert & Jones Wine Merchants, Bel-

lingham – With an extensive background in wine distribution and retail sales, proprietor/ owner Ted Seifert brings a wealth of experience to his job. His cozy, downtown Bellingham shop includes both international and domestic wines, and Washington and Oregon wineries are especially well-represented. Can’t find that special wine in stock? He’ll be happy to do whatever it takes to track it down for you. Artisan Wine Gallery, Lummi Island – This hidden gem of a wine shop requires a leisurely half-hour drive north of Bellingham and a 10-minute ferry trip from the mainland. There, you’ll be greeted by husband-and-wife owners Rich Frye and Pat Hayes, who have been operating their tiny shop for over 15 years. It’s well worth the trip. ACCOMMODATIONS The Chrysalis Inn and Spa, Bellingham – The Chrysalis is a complete package: accommodations, spa treatments and in-house dining at its restaurant, Keenan’s at the Pier. Treat yourself to a massage or a facial or take a stroll along the waterfront on the boardwalk just steps from the hotel; then finish the evening with a glass of wine on the patio while watching the sunset on Bellingham Bay. Fairhaven Village Inn, Bellingham – Bellingham’s Fairhaven district is home to a wonderful mix of restaurants, arts and crafts stores and galleries, and they’re all within walking distance of the Fairhaven Village Inn, a 22-room venue with a “boutique hotel” feel. Amenities include a 24-hour library lounge with coffee and tea service, and pastries and seasonal fruits served each morning. Feel like staying in? Galloway’s Cocktail Bar is adjacent to the Inn … and you can access it without leaving the building. OTHER ACTIVITIES ANNUAL EVENTS There are several farmers markets that operate throughout the county. The largest, the Bellingham Farmers Market, is held every Saturday from April through December. The Ski to Sea Race & Fairhaven Festival takes place Memorial Day weekend and features an 8-person relay of seven sports that begins on Mount Baker and finishes at Bellingham Bay. In August, check out the Northwest Washington Fair in Lynden where you’ll find livestock competitions, carnival rides, food and craft booths, and musical entertainment.

ON THE WATER If you can do it on the water, you can do it in Whatcom County. Kayaking, fishing, sailing and water skiing are just a few of the options. San Juan Cruises also offers a variety of evening and day-long excursions departing from the Bellingham Ferry Terminal. Included are whale watching tours, dinner cruises and wine tasting cruises. SPORTS Get in a round or a quick nine holes at one of several public golf courses during your visit; North Bellingham Golf Course, Raspberry Ridge, Lake Padden Golf Course and Shuksan Golf Club are just a few of the options. If you’re more of a spectator, the West Coast League’s Bellingham Bells Baseball Club plays from June through August at Joe Martin Field. Ticket prices are affordable, and it’s a great way to wind down after a day of wine tasting or sightseeing.

SKAGIT COUNTY There are about 100,000 fewer residents in Skagit County than Whatcom County, and a drive through the Skagit Valley quickly makes it clear agriculture is important in this mostly rural area. Mount Vernon, population about 33,000, is the largest city and clearly influenced by farming. Strawberries, potatoes and peas top the list of major crops grown in the Skagit Valley, but the county’s tulips take center stage, celebrated with their own annual festival complete with viewing schedules, art-related events and even a line of merchandise. To the west of Mount Vernon lies La Conner, a charming town of just under 1,000 situated on the Swinomish Channel. It has become a mecca for tourists with its art galleries, small shops, eateries and overall laidback atmosphere. The channel separates the mainland from Fidalgo Island and Anacortes, which is easily accessible over Highway 20. Anacortes also relies on tourism spending; it serves as the Washington State Ferries terminal for departures to and arrivals from the San Juan Islands and Victoria, B.C. WINERIES Many winemakers will tell you it was a particular bottle of wine that triggered an epiphany and led them to start their own winery. But for Mark Hulst, co-owner/winemaker

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

FEATURES | 72 hours of Skagit Cellars, it was a book, From Vines to Wines, along with the support of family and friends who simply couldn’t get enough of his home-produced wines starting in 2008. “I was fascinated by the process,” Hulst recalled. “We made a Lemberger and a Viognier, and everyone seemed to like it. We continued to ramp it up each year.” That is, until his wife, Gloria, pointed out they were

probably exceeding the legal limit for home consumption. After nearby Tulip Valley Winery invited home winemakers in the area to use the winery’s facilities to bottle wines, Hulst decided to give it a shot, resulting in his first commercial vintage, a 2012 Viognier. “We entered it in a competition, and it won a silver medal. That was all we needed to

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In Skagit Cellars’ LaConner tasting room, winemaker Mark Hulst, left, and marketing director Russell Chandler preside.

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A sampling of the wines of Skagit Cellars.

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send us on our way,” he laughed. In 2015, Skagit Cellars opened its tasting room in La Conner, where today, visitors are almost certain to be met by the affable Russell Chandler, director of sales and marketing. The winery also opened a second location in 2018 in Manson near Lake Chelan. Hulst draws on a variety of Eastern Washington vineyards, including Antoine Creek, Four Lakes, Destiny Ridge and Clos CheValle. He considers Viognier and Syrah his signature wines and likes to refer to his full-bodied, mile-long-finish Viognier as “white wine for red wine drinkers.” Other current releases include a Sangiovese rosé, a Sauvignon Blanc and two dropdead gorgeous reds, a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2018 Malbec. Hulst said he always barrel-ages his reds between 34 to 36 months, and their resulting character is stunning. “One of the things I hear from customers all the time is, ‘You hit it 100 percent. We like all of the wines,’” he said with a smile. For those wanting more, he plans to bottle a 2018 Barbera and two 2020 Chardonnays – one stainless, one barrel-fermented – sometime between early to late summer of this year. He’s also looking to increase his annual production from about 1,200 to 2,000 cases. “Every year I just try to let the fruit be the fruit,” he says of his winemaking philosophy. “Different characteristics come out each year, depending on the growing seasons. I think that’s part of the romance of making wine; to find out what it’s going to be like. For me, that’s the passion.” Tulip Valley Winery co-owner/winemaker Ector DeLeon is one of many presentday winemakers who had a previous career in an unrelated field. DeLeon served in the U.S. Army for 20 years and was deployed on three tours of duty — Operations Desert Shield, Desert Storm and Iraqi Freedom. After retiring, he hoped to purchase the land next to his property in the Skagit Valley, but Carl Engebreth, who grew up and worked on his family’s vineyard in Sonoma, Calif., beat him to the punch and established Tulip Valley Winery on the 74-acre parcel. Over time, the two struck up a friendship, with DeLeon working on the property “just to keep busy,” he said. “But then Carl’s winemaker moved on and he said, ‘Why don’t you become my partner? You’ve already done everything here.’ ” That led to DeLeon’s venture initially into cider-making (with his first release earning a

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Tulip Valley Winery’s owner/winemaker/cidermaker is Ector DeLeon.

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Tulip Valley Winery owner Shanna DeLeon greets a steady stream of wine and cider lovers at the Mount Vernon estate. best-in-show award in the 2007 World Cider Vineyard. Competition) and then winemaking. DeLeon feels that because their estate They also purchased 70 acres near Sunnyvineyards are in a not-too-warm, not-too-cool side in the Yakima Valley, 50 of which are climate with upper and lower slopes, “we get planted with a number of red and white varie- a deeper, heavier color on our grapes,” resultties in certified organic/Salmon Safe Abberin ing in wines with “a heavier mouthfeel.”

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He notes that Abberin is home to some of the oldest Gewürztraminer vines in the state — almost 40 years old — and they have supplied grapes for other wineries such as Charles Smith, Treveri Cellars and 14 Hands. Back at the Skagit Valley tasting room, you’re likely to find Ector’s wife, Shanna, behind the counter along with an ample patio for outdoor tasting, 3 acres of Pinot Noir (some of which he uses for blending), plenty of apple orchards and picturesque views of the valley. Must-try wines from the current releases include a delicious, slightly sweet 2019 Gewürztraminer and the nonvintage Red Barn Red (a heady, chewy blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and a splash of Malbec.) DeLeon’s plans include working with more reds, with Barbera and Zinfandel topping the list. Just east of Sedro-Woolley is Eagle Haven Winery, which has an unpretentious, countrified charm to it. The winery is in transition, with owner Darrell Drummond, a Sedro-Woolley class of 1977 graduate, transitioning it to 2007 graduate and managing partner, Danielle Kaaland. Kaaland has been working at the winery for five years and has always dreamt of owning it. The tasting room is on a farm that includes Christmas trees, pears and apples. Two years ago, 7 acres of wine grapes were planted there. Sauvignon Blanc, a Précoce clone of Pinot Noir, Siegerrebe and Agria, which they’ll use to make rosé, were included in the plantings. Drummond estimates they are two years from producing wines from their estate grapes. In the meantime, the winery offers plenty of red and white wine choices (Viognier, Tempranillo and Zinfandel among them), which are sourced from vineyards in Chelan, Prosser and Zillah. Mark Hulst of Skagit Cellars has been the winemaker for Eagle Haven for the last three years. The winery shines with its selection of fruit wines. “We try to use fruit from local farmers,” notes Drummond, including kiwi, which quickly sold out, raspberry, strawberry and blueberry. The Eagle Haven Tart Strawberry is a particular standout. Hulst oversaw production of this unique, taste-it-to-believe-it wine, which was made with a hands-off/no sweetening approach and carries less then 1 percent residual sugar. Drummond recalls a somewhat snooty visitor from France who refused to try the strawberry wine. It was only after some coax-

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At Eagle Haven Winery, managing partner Danielle Kaaland and managing partner and owner Darrell Drummond make good use of the expansive grounds by offering a range of events that draw visitors from both counties.

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Owners of Skagit Crest Vineyard & Winery, Chuck and Donna Jackson, produced the first Skagit Valley-based Pinot to earn a double platinum medal at the 2020 Wine Press Northwest Platinum Judging. ing from his wife that he reluctantly gave it a sip. Instantly impressed, he bought a case.

Kaaland is also working on what she refers to as “her project,” the Woolley Boys Hard

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Eagle Haven Winery offers wine in bottles and cans.

Cider, which is made from estate apples. The cider has been a hit with locals, and she plans to release a huckleberry version along with a Woolley Girls line of seltzers. In addition to the folksy, wood-paneled tasting room, Eagle Haven also features an outdoor pavilion for concerts, weddings and reunions. Chuck Jackson, owner/winemaker of Skagit Crest Vineyard & Winery received a Double Platinum medal at the 2020 Wine Press Northwest Platinum Judging for his 2017 Estate Pinot Noir. In doing so, he became the first Skagit Valley-based Pinot grower to earn the honor. Not bad for a former Boeing industrial engineer who initially had no intention of even planting a vineyard in the Puget Sound AVA. Chuck and his wife, Donna, lived in Bothell for more than three decades before moving to their home near Sedro-Woolley, situated on a 10-acre parcel that includes their winery production facility and 3 acres of vineyards. Along the way, he earned his stripes through trial-and-error: first as an amateur winemaker, then as a still-active member of the Boeing Wine & Beer Club for 30-plus years. In 1995, he decided to take his winemaking hobby to the next level, purchasing property in the Yakima Valley and intending to

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Theresa Mindt greets visitors to Pasek Cellars tasting room.

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David James, winemaker at Pasek Cellars, focuses on punchdown of cranberry bins.

move there. His idea was quickly vetoed by Donna and their two daughters. Undaunted, Chuck stayed west of the Cascades, working as winemaker for Eagle Haven Winery in Sedro-Woolley while shifting his focus to a cooler-climate vineyard site. In 2008, he found what he was looking for: a gently sloped property on the fringe of the Skagit Valley with great drainage and southwest exposure. He planted his first vineyards in 2011 and today maintains four clones of Pinot Noir along with early-ripening clones of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. The Puget Sound AVA brings a special set of challenges for wine grape growers – mil-

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dew, rain and cooler weather to name a few – but Chuck notes that “although yields were down in 2020, we did pretty well, all things considered. “I’ve been pretty happy and impressed with what we’ve been able to achieve with our Pinot Noir,” he added. “It’s an unruly plant that takes a lot of tending. It’s a challenge, but worth it.” Other red wines that Skagit Crest produces include a red blend, a Cabernet Sauvignon from both the Martinez family and Phinny Hill vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, and a Syrah sourced Crawford and Chandler Reach vineyards in the Yakima Valley.

Their tasting room is open on weekends in downtown La Conner, and they offer welcome tastings and vineyard tours at their Sedro-Woolley production facility by appointment. Husband and wife David James and Judy Pascale purchased Pasek Cellars from Gene and Kathy Pasek about six years ago and retained the name of the winery established in 1997. After almost 20 years at its location near Conway, the tasting room moved to a light industrial park in South Mount Vernon last July. The big plus to the move is that the tasting room is now next door to the winery’s production facility, which allows them to conduct tours so visitors can view production of their fruit wines firsthand. Pascale noted one advantage to producing fruit wines is they can be made any time of year, “on demand.” Frozen fruit is thawed and fermented after adding water, sugar, yeast and nutrients. Pasek Cellars uses all locally sourced fruit for its cranberry, blackberry, raspberry, blueberry and loganberry wines, and they also make passion fruit and pineapple wines from concentrate. Cranberry is a top seller, especially around the holidays because it pairs well with turkey. In 2015, the winery was approached by an entrepreneur who was looking to promote fruit wines in Israel because of the health benefits of berries in an alcoholic beverage.

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“The Vine” - Bertlesen Winery’s event space – is used for private soirees as well as the winery’s popular concert program.

Since then, Pasek has met requirements to become certified Kosher and can ship fruit wines to Israel. For traditional wine drinkers, the list of current releases includes Chardonnay, Muscat Canelli, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre. And as the official winery of the 2021 Skagit Valley Tulip Festival, Pasek produced two special label wines; Festival White is a 2020 Columbia Valley Pinot Gris and the Tulip Red is a 2018 Columbia Valley Syrah. Steve Bertelsen, co-owner and manager of Bertelsen Winery, grew up in Skagit County. His parents, Richard and Josephine, purchased property in 1988 that would eventually become the site for the winery. The two decade-plus time lag was attributable to several factors: the 2008 recession, his desire to continue to practice oral surgery until his retirement in 2016 and his work in the food and beverage industry at the Mandalay Bay Resort in Las Vegas until 2013.

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Steve and Ali Bertlesen of Bertlesen Winery.

After he returned to Washington, the winery opened in May 2014. Today, Bertelsen Winery is an established favorite for many Skagit and North Snohomish County wine enthusiasts. Its location, just off of Interstate 5 south of Mount Vernon, is a plus. It draws travelers from the I-5 corridor who are looking for an easy-access winery to check out. But Bertelsen’s biggest supporters are area wine lovers who have joined its wine club and attend its special events. Another key was sourcing their grapes from several solid Eastern Washington vineyards – MonteScarlatto on Red Mountain and White Bluffs, near Pasco, to name a few. The current wines come from a wide range of Washington AVAs such as a Pinot Gris from Wahluke Slope, an Ancient Lakes Chardonnay and reserve Syrah and a Walla Walla Valley Merlot. With the opening of an event center — “The Vine” — adjacent to the tasting room, Bertelsen is also able to accommodate Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

FEATURES | 72 hours Bayernmoor also plans to open a second location in Woodinville, likely in mid-July.

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Brian Carter, winemaker for Bayernmoor Cellars, earned the Washington Winery of the Year award from Wine Press Northwest in 2015 for his storied eponymous project in Woodinville. nearly 200 guests for private parties, meetings, reunions and weddings. In addition to the beautifully landscaped grounds with room for picnicking and wine tasting, the winery features an outdoor concert stage and seating for up to 400. Bayernmoor Cellars is technically in Snohomish County, just a few thousand yards south of the Skagit County line. But the winery is only a five-mile drive southeast of Bertelsen, and it’s a natural extension of your journey if you’re traveling in the area and on the hunt for some remarkable wines. Former Amazon patent attorney Larry Harris and his wife, Kim, established the winery on property owned by Kim’s parents by following a plan that included the proper choice of land, grapes and winemaker. First, the couple worked with the Skagit County extension office of Washington State University to test the property’s soil conditions and heat units. After determining the site would work perfectly for Pinot Noir, a mix of two Pinot clones, Précoce and 777, were planted on 6 acres in 2012. Finally, they were able to land one of the state’s top winemakers, Woodinville’s Brian Carter, as executive winemaker. “Brian’s name kept coming up as the Old World blending master,” Larry recalled, “and that seemed to pair well with what I was after, 32

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so that’s why we targeted him. It goes back to our initial mantra: ‘If we’re going to do this, we’re going to be the best we possibly can.’ ” Their three-tiered approach was essential to fulfill their vision of making the property work for itself and creating a winery that produces world-class wines. If Bayermoor’s performance in regional wine competitions is any indication, the winery is off to a tremendous start. The 2017 Estate Pinot Noir received gold medals at the Cascadia International, the Seattle Wine Awards and the Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival. General manager Jeremiah Nelson notes that for the 2018 vintage, the winery plans to release three separate bottlings this fall: one Précoce, one 777, and a third which is a reserve blend of the two. “They show the expression of each clone,” he said. “The Précoce is floral and bright, the 777 shows a little more body, earth and dark fruit … and the reserve is so damn delicious!” In addition to their estate grapes, Bayernmoor obtains Chardonnay from Otis and Celilo Vineyards and Cabernet Sauvignon from Destiny Ridge and Klipsun vineyards. A 50/50 rosé blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre is also among current releases. Nelson said the winery anticipates being available for tastings by appointment only beginning in late summer.

RESTAURANTS & WINE SHOPS Il Granaio Authentic Italian Restaurant, Mount Vernon – Il Granaio is in Mount Vernon’s old town district, just a few blocks from the Skagit River in the iconic Old Town Grainery Building. The restaurant prides itself not only on its customer service but also its fresh, made-from-scratch items — everything from pasta to meatballs to tiramisu. The something-for-everyone menu is substantial, and prices are reasonable. Il Granaio is also the only place you’ll find Tulip Valley Winery’s wines outside of the tasting room. Nell Thorn Waterfront Bistro & Bar, La Conner – The “farm to table” adage is in full force at this La Conner favorite, where many ingredients come from nearby Skagit Valley farms. Seafood and fresh vegetable choices dominate the menu, and the wine list includes an excellent selection of Oregon Pinot Noirs along with several Washington wineries, including Canvasback, DeLille, Reininger and Seven Hills. Salt and Vine, Anacortes – This cheeseand-wine bar is the perfect place to have a nosh with that stellar bottle of wine. Order a charcuterie board, some artisan cheese, a baguette or even a few chocolate truffles for eat-in or take-out and leave feeling happy. The shop is just off the north end of Commercial Street – Anacortes’s “main drag” – and includes a small but impressive wine list of wines and a by-the-glass menu. Compass Wines, Anacortes – Doug Charles and Will Parks founded Compass Wines 20 years ago. The business partners have since built up the wine shop inventory – and its reputation – to be one of the best in the country. They specialize in finding particularly hard-to-find Washington wines and also stock a good selection of liquors, Ports and wine-related foods and gifts. Hellam’s Vineyard, La Conner – You won’t find any vineyards at this La Conner wine shop, just rows of wine bottles and its personable owner/proprietor, Jeff Hellam, who is that rare mix of someone who acquired both technical knowledge and practical experience in the wine industry before starting his business in 2004. His inventory carries a wide variety of Old and New World wines, and customers are encouraged to linger on the outdoor deck overlooking the channel while enjoying a glass from the wine list. Hellam served as a judge for the 2019 Platinum Awards.

FEATURES | 72 hours ACCOMMODATIONS Swinomish Casino and Lodge – About halfway between Anacortes and Mount Vernon on Padilla Bay, The Swinomish is more than just a venue for 18-hours-a-day gaming. The 98-room facility includes a variety of dining options, topped by its surf-and-turf influenced menu at 13moons restaurant. The restaurant’s wine list is diverse, with plenty from Pacific Northwest wineries. Need a break from the indoors? The Swinomish Golf Links, an 18-hole course, is a two-mile drive west of the lodge. La Conner Channel Lodge, La Conner – The Lodge offers an impressive list of amenities with a location that is practically peerless. Set in downtown La Conner on the Swinomish Channel, it’s steps away from shopping, restaurants or just a leisurely stroll through town. Guest rooms include gas fireplaces, private balconies and a continental breakfast. An added bonus is Hellam’s Vineyard wine shop is right next door and Skagit Crest and Skagit Cellars’ tasting rooms just down the street.

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Kim and Larry Harris have established Bayernmoor Cellars as a destination winery by incorporating a Pinot Noir vineyard into the expansive gardens and pastures near Stanwood.

OTHER ACTIVITIES Annual events — The Skagit Valley Tulip Festival is the crown jewel of the area, running from April 1-30 each year. Prime viewing times depend on Mother Nature, though you can count on fields of daffodils to be in bloom earlier and the possibility of tulips extending into May if the weather is cooler, and the flowers get a late start. Pack your camera and your patience in anticipation of the crowds, but prepare to be dazzled. The Anacortes Arts Festival takes place in early August and has been operating for 60 years. Booth artists, food vendors and entertainment fill the streets of the city’s downtown district. Farmers markets — The Skagit Valley is home to a number of farmers markets that operate in Mount Vernon, Anacortes and Sedro-Woolley. You’ll also find dozens of seasonal fruit stands and produce markets throughout the county (such as Snow Goose Produce in South Mount Vernon). If you don’t mind getting down in the dirt a bit, many farms, including Bow Hill Blueberries, also provide u-pick options. It doesn’t get any fresher than that. DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. He produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com, and is president of the Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival competition.

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Bayernmoor Cellars in Stanwood offers an array of wines. Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

TASTING RESULTS | rosé

RHÔNE VARIETIES CONTINUE THEIR RISE AMONG NORTHWEST ROSÉ Story by Eric Degerman | Photography by Jennifer King t’s probably a misnomer to refer to rosé’s recent rise as a renaissance considering there wasn’t huge interest in that style of wine among Americans — unless White Zinfandel counts as something other than “California Kool-Aid.” However, according to Silicon Valley Bank’s State of the U.S. Wine Industry 2021 report, “The bloom is officially off the rosé this year, with a growth rate slightly below zero.” How much of that can be chalked up to side effects of the pandemic? After all, rosé consumption grew 2.8% in 2019 to 18.4 million cases, according to research by M. Shanken Communications Inc., but the majority of that growth was driven by folks reaching for wines from Provence. Domestic rosé consumption increased just 0.1% to 15 million cases in 2019. And yet, Americans continue to seek for

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lighter-styled beverages, so rosé is another way for vintners to engage consumers. Rosé producers aren’t targeting the traditional benchmark level of ripeness at 24 percent sugar — or Brix — for most red table wines. Cabernet Sauvignon in Washington state often is cropped at two to three tons per acre to attain 24 Brix. Prized vineyards of Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Willamette Valley sometimes are constricted to eke out less than two tons of wine grapes per acre. Those vines require more labor and management, which explains why those Northwest wines routinely are priced at $40 to $80 per bottle. It is easy to see why folks walk out of Barnard Griffin’s tasting rooms in Richland and Vancouver USA with cases of Rob Griffin’s storied Sangiovese rosé. “In a good year, we can crop Sangiovese to 10 tons an acre, which is almost embarrassing to admit,” Griffin said. “But that gives the

wine the crisp acidity, and it still has the fruit. Of course, that’s dependent upon the year. A more average vintage would be seven to eight tons per acre.” As a result, the science inside the grapes Griffin hopes to harvest for rosé amounts to a sugar level of 21 Brix, a pH level of no more than 3.4, total acidity of 7 grams per liter, a food-friendly alcohol in the range of 12.5 to 13 percent, and residual sugar less than 0.3 percent — essentially bone-dry. In the latest Wine Press Northwest look at rosé, of the 23 examples rated as “Outstanding!” and above, only six checked in with a residual sugar level of more than 5 grams per liter (0.5%). Overall, more than half of the tastiest — 13 — involved Syrah or other Rhône varieties, including Grenache. So yes, rosé is another delicious use of Syrah. Five of the best were Pinot Noir, which

TASTING RESULTS | rosé included two sparkling examples. And as Barnard Griffin has shown at national wine competitions, two of the best were made using Italian varieties — either Sangiovese or Barbera. Remember, rosé should not be forgotten after Labor Day or viewed as a carton of milk that carries an expiration date of Dec. 31. Instead, these bright and fun wines show deliciously at least two years beyond vintage. Many began their life in the bottle tilting toward a Provence style in their appearance — think of a light salmon or pale pink wardrobe — and they are created in a foodfriendly style, meaning they are beautifully fruity yet far from sweet. Think of enjoying these wines with Indian, Asian stir-fry, seared ahi tuna, salmon, shellfish, Nicoise salad or a board of cured meat, cheese and sliced vegetables. Panelists for this tasting were Kristine Bono, certified sommelier/general manager, Tertulia Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.; Kent FitzGerald, KW FitzGerald Consulting, Walla Walla; Richard Larsen, research winemaker/ enologist emeritus, Washington State Uni-

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories:

OUTSTANDING! These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

EXCELLENT Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

RECOMMENDED Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Prices are suggested retail.

versity, Puyallup, Wash.; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist, Kennewick, Wash.; Mike Rader, Great Northwest Wine panelist, Kennewick; Alexis Sells, winemaker,

Fortuity Cellars, Wapato, Wash.; and Gordy Venneri, winemaking consultant, Walla Walla. The socially distanced judging took place in April at the Kennewick home of Jerry Hug, Publisher of Wine Press Northwest. Here are the results:

UNANIMOUSLY OUTSTANDING! Mercer Estates 2020 Spice Cabinet Vineyard Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills • $15 Best Buy! Among the legacies left by Jeremy Santo before his departure this spring to J. Bookwalter Winery is one of the Pacific Northwest’s best rosés. There’s no replicating the key ingredient in this pink — highly decorated Spice Cabinet Vineyard along the Columbia River near Crow Butte Park. It is Provençal with its makeup of 100% Grenache, and it opens with beautiful florals of peach blossom, raspberry and honeydew melon. Those come through on the palate, which picks up nectarine, and the brightness of the structure, just 0.3% residual sugar, makes for a mouth-filling finish. (350 cases, 12.5% alc.)

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

TASTING RESULTS | rosé

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2020 Whole Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley • $18 For years, founding winemaker Jim Bernau and his head winemaker, New York native Joe Ibrahim, have used whole-cluster fermentation to produce a Nouveau Beaujolais-style of Pinot Noir. They recently began to use a similar process for one of their two rosés. Gravity pressing leads to the free-run juice, which spends 24 hours on the skins. After fermentation, a third of the lot remains on the lees, which adds complexity to the mouthfeel and creates a fascinating level of intensity. Remarkable aromatics of bubble gum and guava lead to a nicely balanced drink of strawberry and ripe peach as the fruity, yet bone-dry, finish (0.1% residual sugar) offers hints of seashells and nectarine. (13,800 cases, 13.2% alc.) H3 2019 Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills • $14 Best Buy! Don’t think for a moment that there’s a 12-month shelf life on a Northwest rosé as Katie Nelson and her Columbia Crest team prove with this bottling that’s constructed with a string of Rhône varieties — Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut and Counoise as well as a bit of structure from Cabernet Sauvignon. Beautiful orchard blossom and rose petal aromas are backed up with stone fruit and watermelon flavors. Those are capped by white peach skin and green tea to easily cleanse the residual sugar of 0.6%. (2,000 cases, 12.5% alc.) College Cellars of Walla Walla 2019 Rosé of Grenache, Walla Walla Valley • $20 36

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Student winemakers, led by now-departing instructor Tim Donahue, drove their pink project with Grenache across the stateline to Blue Mountain Cider Co., in Milton-Freewater, Ore., where a touch of spritz was added to take this to another level. Strawberry-cherry blossom and filbert skin aromas transition to flavors of strawberry-rhubarb preserve atop a scone, backed by melon rind and nectarine, allowing this to exhibit many of the high points of a classic crémant. (150 cases, 13% alc.) Jones of Washington 2020 Rosé of Syrah, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley • $14 Best Buy! Four times Victor Palencia has earned a Platinum from Wine Press Northwest for the Jones family with his remarkable rosé of Syrah program. He’s now qualified this gorgeously currant-hued rosé from 2 Gun Vineyard for this fall’s 22nd Platinum Judging. Thoughts of Fruit Stripe cherry gum, strawberry pie and peach fill the mind as marvelous acidity does wonders with the 0.8% residual sugar. (1,497 cases, 12.3% alc.) 14 Hands Winery 2019 Rosé, Washing ton State • $12 Best Buy! Keith Kenison performs magic with this pink wine — the largest production entered into the judging — that’s made using Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. It’s downright charming with its nose of hibiscus, nectarine and rose petal, leading to bright cherry and orange flavors as nectarine is revisited. And there’s ample acidity for the 0.6% residual sugar. (44,000 cases, 13% alc.) Saviah Cellars 2020 Rosé Wine, Walla

Walla Valley • $22 Dugger Creek Vineyard on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley is the birthplace of Richard Funk’s Tuscan-inspired blend of Sangiovese (60%) and Barbera (40%). The nose of cherry blossom, watermelon and gummy spice drops leads to an abundance of cherry, nectarine and watermelon with Limeade in the finish. (215 cases, 13.3% alc.) DAMA Wines 2020 Rosé, Columbia Valley • $19 Chelle den Millie Vineyard in the Yakima Valley north of Prosser has become Mary Derby’s go-to site for Cabernet Franc. Her six hours of cold soaking led her to extract a bit more color — think of light strawberry — than her effort from the 2019 vintage. And this offers an amazing amount of fruit, more than one typically expects from a rosé of Cab Franc. It’s loaded with blue fruit tones while there’s still some varietal typicity with the hint of sweet red bell pepper. Nectarine flesh and lime zest make for a long and rewarding finish. (200 cases, 14% alc.) Northwest Cellars 2019 Leggiero, Wal la Walla Valley • $19 Those with an appreciation for Latin can get an advance sense for their experience with Woodinville winemaker Robert Delf’s rosé, which he names for an Italian musical term for “delicate.” And he achieves that by using red Rhône grapes Grenache (53%), Syrah (29%) and Cinsaut. One of the most perfumy rosés in the tasting offers fanciful notes of cherry, strawberry and orange zest that are framed by lemongrass and quince at

TASTING RESULTS | rosé the close. (224 cases, 13.5% alc.)

OUTSTANDING! Cascadian Outfitters NV Estate Rosé, Columbia Valley • $5 Best Buy! In the next year or so, it is expected that winemaker Andrew Wilson will be allowed to go with “Goose Gap” as the appellation for this canned project that his team creates for the Monson family near the TriCities. Their use of Syrah off one of the largest contiguous plantings in the Northwest is filled with notes of strawberry-rhubarb compote and lavender, backed by nectarine and jasmine tea. It’s a great example of the quality of winemaking that’s going into canned wines. Presented as essentially bone-dry at 0.4% residual sugar, the highly floral aspects of orange blossom will be most appreciated if poured from the can and into a glass. And the price listed here is for a 375-milliliter can, so this is the equivalent to a $10 bottle of rosé. (500 cases, 13% alc.) Côte Bonneville 2020 DuBrul Vineyard Estate Cabernet Franc Rosé, Yakima Val ley • $30 For nearly three decades, the Shiels family counts some of the state’s most famous wine-

makers as buyers of its prized fruit in the Rattlesnake Hills — hand-harvested by their all-female vineyard crew. Meanwhile, the elegant, age-worthy wines Kerry Shiels crafts for her parents continue to serve as delicious advertising and stack up alongside the best in the Northwest, too. Her brilliantly dry rosé carries a theme of strawberry, currant and blueberry with a refreshing squirt of pink grapefruit zest in the finish. She suggests serving it with Peach Melba. (160 cases, 13.9% alc.) Björnson Vineyard 2020 Rosé Bubbles, EolaAmity Hills • $29 Pattie and Mark Björnson brought on Scott Sabbadini as winemaker in 2019, with a résumé that includes famed Domaine Roy Et Fils in Oregon and heavily decorated Maryhill Winery in Washington. Sabbadini’s talent shows in this project from the Minnesota couple’s 28-acre vineyard near Bethel Heights. The attractive example is filled with cherry and nectarine notes, barely perceptible sweetness (0.5% residual sugar) and a nice nibble of Pink Lady apple skin in the back. (250 cases, 13.5% alc.) Clubhouse Cellars NV Tickle Me Pink Rosé, Columbia Valley • $20

At the moment, Clubhouse Cellars is a rather obscure second label for Page Cellars. That won’t last long with fun offerings such as this. Woodinville winemaker/pilot Jim Page uses Syrah (90%) and Pinot Gris for this round and tasty pink that’s light and refreshing with a stream of fruit flavors ranging from tropical (guava) and stone (peach, apricot) to citrus and strawberry. (224 cases, 13.9% alc.) Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2019 Fam iligia Vineyard Rosé of Malbec, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley • $14 Best Buy! Mike Conway and his daughter, Natalie Conway-Barnes, continue their deep relationship with the Bryan family at Cave B with this Malbec from their historic planting near the Gorge Amphitheater. Plum, violet and leather aromas lead to ripe plum, Hermiston watermelon and dark strawberry on the palate. Serve with barbecue chicken sandwiches with coleslaw, and the recipe by Elena Conway is published on her family’s website. (112 cases, 12.5% alc.) Lost River Winery 2020 Rosé, Colum bia Valley • $18 Methow Valley winemaker John Morgan pulls this Grenache-focused rosé from Inland Desert Vineyard near Red Mountain. Rasp-

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

TASTING RESULTS | rosé

ROSÉ BY THE NUMBERS Here’s a look at the numbers behind the wines tasted for this article. Total wines judged: 99 Percentage of “Unanimously Outstanding!” wines: 9 Percentage of “Outstanding!” wines: 23 Percentage of “Excellent” wines: 46 Percentage of “Recommended” wines: 24 Average price: $19 Average price of “Outstanding!” wine: $18 Average alcohol: 12.9% Average residual sugar: 5.25 grams per liter (0.52%) Total cases represented: 101,693 Median case production: 200 Average case production: 1,016 American Viticultural Areas represented: 23 Entries by AVA: Columbia Valley (34), Walla Walla Valley (9), Yakima Valley (7), Horse Heaven Hills (6), Willamette Valley (6), Snake River Valley (5), Lake Chelan (4), Washington State (4), Eola-Amity Hills (3), Royal Slope (3), Umpqua Valley (3), Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (2), Columbia Gorge (2), Idaho (2), Puget Sound (2), Rattlesnake Hills (2), Lewis-Clark Valley (1), McMinnville (1), Oregon (1), Red Mountain (1), Southern Oregon (1), Wahluke Slope (1) and Yamhill-Carlton (1).

berry, strawberry and white peach only begin to describe this floral and fruity wine that’s filled with finesse. There’s remarkable brightness to the finish of Montmorency cherry and Craisin that’s fresh and clean. (200 cases, 11.5% alc.) Milbrandt Vineyards 2020 Rosé, Co lumbia Valley • $15 Best Buy! Butch Milbrandt and Kendall Mix continue to team up for some of the Northwest’s top wines, and this nicely priced rosé that’s a blend of six varieties — including Syrah, Tempranillo and Albariño — engages the consumer immediately with its gorgeous color. Blueberry compote, pomegranate, starfruit and lavender aromas lead to flavors of pie cherry, cassis and an apricot right off the tree. Milbrandt, whose culinary talents can be seen on YouTube, suggests serving this 38

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with seared ahi. (4,000 cases, 12.% alc.) Seven of Hearts 2020 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley • $21 Here’s a veritable bargain of Pinot Noir rosé from Dundee, Ore., winemaker Byron Dooley, who has the advantage of working with his sustainably farmed Luminous Hills Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills to control both his fruit and his costs. There’s a real wow factor to its delicate and enticing strawberry notes, joined by Rainier cherry and

raspberry. The fascinating midpalate of honeycomb with apricot leads out with a return of strawberries and a refreshing burst of lime juice. (111 cases, 13.27% alc.) Sparkman Cellars 2020 This Old Porch Rosé, Columbia Valley • $25 This vintage marked the 10th anniversary for Linn Scott at Sparkman Cellars, and his melange of eight grape varieties — led by Cabernet Sauvignon — came from an all-star lineup of vineyards that include Discovery,

TASTING RESULTS | rosé

EXPLORE NORTHWEST ROSÉ The creation of National Rosé Day, the second Saturday of June, has been credited to Bodvár, a French producer based in Provence. Prior to the pandemic, there were a number of Northwest celebrations surrounding rosé, including the Drink Pink Rosé Festival at Patton Valley Vineyard in the Willamette Valley, Exposé on Rosé by the Seattle Urban Wineries, and Drink Pink by Woodinville Wine Country. Go to WillametteWines.com, SeattleUrbanWineries.com and WoodinvilleWineCountry.com for event information.

Kiona, Klipsun, Olsen, Red Willow and five of the Sagemoor sites. The fun profile takes a tropical angle along with blueberry and strawberry-rhubarb compote, making for a scintillating finish. (721 cases, 13.5% alc.) Spoiled Dog Winery 2020 Rosé of Pi not Noir, Puget Sound • $28 One of the sharpest minds in the Northwest wine industry, chemist/attorney/winemaker Karen Krug earned a Platinum last year with her 2019 rosé, and she’s qualified for the 2021 Platinum via this work from two

plantings on Whidbey Island — her estate and nearby Hezel Family Vineyard. The blend of Dijon clones 667, 777 and Pinot Précose (also known as Frühburgunder) produces a rosé of pure strawberry that’s joined by touches of rose petal and pink grapefruit. (76 cases, 13.4% alc.) Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2020 Expedi tion Rosé, Columbia Valley • $15 Best Buy! Former ski instructor Haydn Mouat goes on a slalom run through the Rhône Valley with this blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsaut and Counoise. Tropical notes are joined by strawberry, rose hips and honey-coated almonds in a stellar structure that’s refreshing and tantalizing. (1,500 cases, 13.3% alc.) Coyote Canyon Winery 2020 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Life is Rosé Barbera, Horse Heaven Hills • $19 Mike Andrews grows the fruit for his winemaker, Justin Michaud, and they’ve made this juicy grape from Piedmont the staple of their rosé program. It’s become an annual crowdpleaser and wowed judges, too, having earned Platinum awards from Wine Press Northwest for the 2016 and 2018 vintages. Like clockwork, this 2020 seems poised for another Platinum. If you don’t enjoy strawberries, there’s no reason to try this because it’s garden-ripened strawberry on the nose and strawberry lemonade on the palate with a scrape of lime zest in the finish to check off of

0.8% residual sugar. (200 cases, 12.8% alc.) ROCO Winery 2018 RMS Brut Rosé, Willamette Valley • $65 There were a handful of sparkling wines submitted for this rosé tasting, and it was no surprise that Argyle founding winemaker Rollin Soles and his wife, Corby StonebrakerSoles, combined for one of the judging’s most remarkable wines. This bottling brings markers of Dundee Hills fruit as it’s a wine featuring high-toned red fruit akin to red plum and cranberry. Its hallmark might be the astounding job with the mousse, which makes for pleasing bubbles. A lick of cherry pit rounds off the residual sugar (0.8%), a barely perceptible level. (160 cases, 12.5% alc.) Eleven Winery 2020 La Primavera, Washington • $25 Bainbridge Island wine lovers increased their embrace of local winemaker Matt Albee during the pandemic, and his success during the past two decades has him growing and expanding his presence beyond the Puget Sound. Mourvèdre is a particular passion of his, and he uses that grape and Syrah to form the core of this elegant rosé that’s fresh, floral and filled with delicate citrus notes. (466 cases, 13.7% alc.) ERIC DEGERMAN operates Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. Learn more about wine at GreatNorthwestWine.com.

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

FEATURE | matchmakers

FORMER SPEAKEASY PUTS WINE ON DISPLAY AT LEADER BLOCK Story by Eric Degerman | Photos by Richard Duval

Richard Duval

Robert Pinkley is the owner of Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery, which is now a culinary destination in Ferndale.

FERNDALE, WASH. f a restaurant is looking for a recipe on how to survive a global pandemic, Robert Pinkley developed one at Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery. Pinkley owned the fascinating Leader Block Building, circa 1909, for nearly two decades before he began to transform his passion for wine into a retail concept. Then, he hired sommelier Amberleigh Brownson and recently added executive chef Doug Elliott, who continue to transform Leader

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Block into a culinary destination that showcases ingredients from a network of surrounding farms and nearby Puget Sound. “This is definitely a new flavor, a new idea for the town of Ferndale in terms of food and wine,” Elliott says. “I was born in Victoria in a house that was built in 1908, so I appreciate things that are older and have character. They don’t build them like this anymore.” Ferndale is about 20 minutes north of Bellingham in an often-overlooked corner of the state. Pinkley had a sense the time was right to attract residents and pull in tourists from Interstate 5 — a mile from Leader Block. In 2002, Pinkley purchased the two-story building on Main Street with a colorful past, particularly during the Roaring Twenties, when the basement served as a speakeasy. It wasn’t until the fall of 2018 when it became Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery. “It’s been a grocery store, a pharmacy, a saloon — and it’s been a brothel,” Pinkley says. “Everything was hush-hush at that time during Prohibition. And Ferndale was very separated by the Nooksack River, which was quite a bit bigger then than it is now. It was a real ordeal to get across.” Pinkley bought the building from the City of Ferndale, and the Ferndale Chamber of Commerce also was a tenant before the wine bar. Now, Pinkley winks at part of the building’s history by operating the second-floor flat above the restaurant as the Leader Block Lovers Suite on AirBNB. “This started for a year as a cozy and cool wine bar, but then I met Amberleigh and decided to turn it into a full-fledged restaurant,” Pinkley said. “We’ve made a real connection with the community, and I think Amberleigh has done that with our wine club, our winemaker dinners and just staying in touch with people, which includes hand-

written note cards. That personal touch takes a lot of effort and a lot of time.” Pinkley grew up in Issaquah, and while the Ivy Leaguer graduated from the University of Pennsylvania with a degree in international finance, he has deep roots in Washington state. His ancestors farmed in the Yakima Valley starting in the 19th century, and his relatives include some famous figures in the food world. “Members of my family have a background in hospitality, but I hadn’t until this,” Pinkley says. In fact, Leader Block sources its cured meats from Coro — the Seattle company founded as Salumi by the father of celebrity chef Mario Batali. Considering who his cousins are, the menu’s theme at Leader Block seems to have been served by destiny. “Italian is the most popular nationality for a restaurant, but we wanted to be Northwest, too,” Pinkley said. “It’s been nice to become THE restaurant in the community for a lot of people in a short period of time.” Pinkley’s employment with the U.S. Department of Commerce led to a career exporting Washington state agricultural products, including wine. His passion for skiing and interest in wine prompted him to buy recreational property in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, yet he’s content to have Brownson spearhead his wine list and run the wine club. “I participate, but she’s the best at what she does and to get in the way of that would be just foolish,” Pinkley said. “She’s won awards for her work.” Initially, Pinkley brought in Brownson on a short-term basis under her consulting business — Restaurant Success — but her enthusiasm and vision for Leader Block made her a permanent fit. A dual citizen of Canada and the U.S., Brownson pays attention to the wine

FEATURE | matchmakers industry on both sides of the border and judges international wine competitions staged throughout the Northwest. That expertise led to Leader Block earning Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence in 2019, 2020 and 2021. “Being able to feature Northwest wines, whether it be in the wine club or as a glass pour of the month, that’s really exciting for me,” Brownson said. “And before Covid, we had a winemaker dinner every month. It’s been a way for our chefs to spread their wings. “And when I sit down with a distributor and taste through a series of wines that I like from a particular winery, I always ask, ‘What’s the potential of me being able to get them for a winemaker dinner?’ ” Brownson’s rise within the Northwest wine industry began at nearby Semiahmoo Resort, where she helped manage several of the restaurants and worked alongside French chef Eric Truglas, featured in the Match Maker series in 2015. “My first ah-hah moment with wine was in 2010 at Semiahmoo when I was a server and discovered a bottle of Apex Cellars 2007 Merlot,” she says with a smile. “I still remember my descriptors as blueberries and chocolate. It was beautiful, and I ran it as a special at $18 a glass. The guests loved it. I sold every single table on it — by myself — all two cases in one night. I thought, ‘OK, maybe there’s something for me with this.’ ” In recent years, she’s served as a volunteer sommelier at the Auction of Washington Wines staged on the grounds of Chateau Ste. Michelle. Few in the Northwest wine industry have a page on IMDb.com - the Internet Movie Database site — but there is Amberleigh Kuyek as Amy Bloom in The Artifact, a sci-fi production released in 2018. In the Canadian thriller Breeze in the Storm, filmed in Vancouver in 2017, she had a role as a 911 dispatcher. While no sequels are in the works for either, the success in Ferndale has the somm and her owners thinking of Leader Block 2.0 in downtown Bellingham. “A second location, same concept — excellence and trust,” she said. “We have survived because of our local support. When you are only driven by money, the atmosphere is not genuine. And it’s not fun.” Pinkley says the focus on local ingredients and regional wines continues to resonate as the Northwest looks to emerge from the shadows of the pandemic.

RICHARD DUVAL

With its prominent location in historic downtown Ferndale, Leader Block’s building has housed a grocery store, a pharmacy, a saloon — and even a brothel. Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

FEATURE | matchmakers

CAPESANTE — SCALLOPS WITH MUSHROOM RISOTTO, MARKET VEGETABLES AND TRUFFLE OIL Mushroom risotto A 1 cup Arborio rice A ½ onion, diced A 1 cup mushroom mix (Cascadian Farms shiitake, oyster, cremini) A 1 tablespoon fresh garlic A 3 cups vegetable stock A 2 ounces white wine A 4 ounces shredded Asiago cheese Heat a little oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms. Sauté until the edges are crispy, then add onion and garlic to toast slightly before adding Arborio rice. Stir until all is incorporated, then deglaze with wine. Add stock, a half cup at a time, and cook while stirring constantly until the moisture is gone. Repeat until all of the stock is used. Add cheese and butter and stir to finish.

RICHARD DUVAL

Chef Doug Elliott has created a menu that showcases the natural bounty of Whatcom County alongside Northwest wines.

Scallops A 16 U-10 (under 10 per pound) scallops A ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil A 2 tablespoons butter, sliced into 2 pads A Salt, pepper for seasoning A White truffle oil to add at plating Pat each scallop dry before seasoning with salt and pepper. Get a sauté pan hot!!! Have your kitchen windows open and the fan on because there should be smoke in order to get the proper sear. Once the pan is hot, add oil then the seasoned scallops and return to the burner on high heat. Add pads of butter and if the heat is as hot as needed it will melt almost instantly and become brown, which is part of the nuttiness for the flavor profile we wish to achieve. Allow nearly all of the cooking to occur on one side of the scallop in order to get the sear and texture, then flip the scallops, turn off heat and let finish for just 1 minute before plating on risotto. Roasted vegetables A 1 ½ pounds baby bok choy, stalks cut in half A 2 mini sweet peppers halved, cored Lay on a sheet pan, sprinkle with oil, season with salt and pepper, then roast in a 450-degree oven for 15 minutes. Sprinkle scallops with white truffle oil just before serving. Enjoy. Cheers! RICHARD DUVAL

Capesante — scallops with mushroom risotto and market vegetables — is paired with Oriana, an elegant white blend from Brian Carter Cellars. 42

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FEATURE | matchmakers

RICHARD DUVAL

Amberleigh Brownson brings wide experience as a sommelier and a restaurateur to her role as director of operations. “It’s all right to put on a shirt that’s not made locally. Who cares?” Pinkley said. “Food? We are putting that in our bodies.

And we are continuing to ingratiate ourselves to the local community. You always have to make that connection, even if you are tired.” Pinkley hired Brett Wiltse as the contractor for the transition from a coffee shop and wine bar into Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery. It didn’t take long before Wiltse wanted to buy into the restaurant, and he’s now coowner and general manager. “I’ve plumbed a lot of restaurants, but after I saw the concept and how it was turning out, I didn’t want to leave,” said Wiltse, born and raised in Whatcom County. “Plumbing is fun, but it’s not as fun as the restaurant industry, and I could see Amberleigh’s enthusiasm and how driven she is.” Pinkley and Brownson, who have interviewed chefs from New York, Paris and Las Vegas in Leader Block’s brief history, recruited Elliott earlier this year to help showcase the natural bounty of Whatcom County alongside Northwest wines. On his way to the photo shoot, Elliott swung by Blanchard Mountain Farm, a certified organic company near iconic Chuckanut Drive. Other go-to sources include Joe’s Gardens in Bellingham and Valley Farmstead in Acme, the birthplace of the Day family’s

buzzworthy Neil’s Bigleaf Maple Syrup. “Ours is a passion-driven industry, and I’m close to 20 area farmers who I know and at least a dozen fishermen,” said Elliott, who spent a decade in Portland kitchens. “I’ve got a crab guy, and I’ve got a spot prawn guy. I’m a huge farm-to-table guy. I will go to the Bellingham Farmers Market on Saturday morning and then figure out what we’re featuring on the menu for Saturday night.” On Tuesdays and Fridays, Leader Block receives deliveries from the Puget Sound Food Hub, a farmer-owned co-op with roots in the Skagit Valley and a collection of more than 80 producers — including Blanchard Mountain and Samish Bay Cheese. “I’m done with big cities. I love complaining about our traffic here,” he said with a smirk. “I loved the food scene in Portland. It was crazy. It was insane, and a lot of fun, but I’m happy to be closer to family. I’ve found a home here. I love it.” Checks go out each month to more than 60 vendors, some Elliott brought with him. He spent the previous 12 years in two Bellingham kitchens, including the past five as executive chef at Hilton’s Chrysalis Inn & Spa. He said he hopes for a similar run at Leader Block.

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

FEATURE | matchmakers

PASTA POLPETTE (ITALIAN MEATBALLS) Serves 4

A A A A

A A A A A A A A

Mix ingredients well, form meatballs and bake at 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes. For the sauce A 3 cups fresh pomodoro sauce (roasted Roma tomatoes, salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil) A 1 cup mushroom mix (Cascadian Farm

RICHARD DUVAL

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A A

For the meatballs 1 pound ground chuck/brisket/short rib blend ½ pound ground lamb ½ small diced onion 1 egg 1 ounce Inglehoffer Traditional Dijon Mustard from Beaverton Foods, Inc. 1 ounce heavy cream 1 tablespoon parsley 1 teaspoon fresh garlic 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon thyme 1 teaspoon cracked rosemary 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon black pepper

Leader Block Chef Doug Elliott.

A A A A A

shiitake, oyster and cremini) ½ pint of grape tomatoes 15 20 cloves confit garlic 1½ cups grapeseed oil 1 fresh basil, chiffonade 2 ounces white wine 4 ounces vegetable stock 8 tablespoons unsalted butter Pasta of your choice to prepare for 4 people (2 ounces of dry pasta equals 1 cup cooked pasta)

Prepare the confit garlic in advance, baking in the grapeseed oil at 250 degrees for 2 hours. To start the sauce, get a pan and place 2 tablespoons of butter along with the mushrooms and sauté on high heat with salt and pepper to taste. Deglaze with white wine and add pomo, tomatoes, confit garlic and vegetable stock. Allow to reduce by half. Toss your pasta of choice into the sauce and cream it out with remaining butter pats and fresh basil. Serve with your favorite cheese on top — the Ferndale Farmstead Grana Padano or another version of Parmigiano Reggiano — and meatballs. Enjoy!

“I don’t like looking for a job,” said the gumbo-loving Elliott, who also prides himself on his Dungeness crab-stuffed New York strip with mushrooms and Béarnaise sauce. Elliott also leans on Brownson’s experience and wine knowledge surrounding Leader Block’s monthly winemaker dinners, which resumed this spring with evenings featuring historic Northwest vintners Brian Carter (Brian Carter Cellars/Array Cellars/Bayernmoor Cellars) and David O’Reilly of Owen Roe. “Here, they let me create new ideas and use ingredients like the Bigleaf Maple Syrup,” Elliott said. “I’ve done a Bigleaf Maple Crème Brûlée. I’ve used it in a Crème Anglaise on top of a chocolate flourless tart. I’ve used it with baby carrots and in different sauces to go with the rabbit that they also farm.” Elliott and Brownson pulled from Leader Block’s Italian theme for both of their Match Maker assignments. The featured red is a wine that routinely wins gold medals at competitions Brownson judges — the Kiona Vineyards Estate Lemberger. It’s a wine with a delicious history, particularly on Red Mountain, and one the Williams family continues to

RICHARD DUVAL

Kiona’s superb Lemberger makes a perfect match for Pasta Polpette (Italian meatballs).

price at a level that makes it easy for Brownson to place it at the top of her list of red wines available by the bottle year after year. “I just love that wine, and I have fun telling my customers about it,” she says. Lamb is a great foil for Lemberger, and Elliott incorporated some ground lamb into his recipe for polpette — aka Italian meatballs. The inclusion of lamb adds a touch of gamy richness to the meatballs, while the subdued tannins and brightness of the Kiona Lemberger slice through the butter, the cream and the cheese grated across the pasta. Brian Carter Cellars also tends to dominate regional wine competitions, and among the wines Brownson has brought on is the Oriana — a unique blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Riesling that’s one of the few white wines Carter produces. Its profile of orchard fruit, apple blossom and minimal oak makes for an aromatic and fresh wine that’s a seamless pairing with the lightly caramelized yet tender scallops and creamy mushroom risotto. “There’s a floral tone with those orchard blossoms, and I can see this dish with edible flowers,” Brownson said. “My hope is that the wine elevates those already special scallops.”

FEATURE | matchmakers

KIONA VINEYARDS 2018 ESTATE LEMBERGER, RED MOUNTAIN, $18 3,310 cases, 14% alc. BENTON CITY, Wash. — For those times when JJ Williams needs to get the attention of a sommelier or wine buyer on the East Coast, he can use a bottle of his family’s acclaimed Lemberger as his calling card. And it works nearly every time with the savvy members of the wine trade. There’s a growing sense of fascination and mystery surrounding this somewhat obscure red grape native to Austria, where it is known as Blaufränkisch. In Germany, there’s Blauer Limberger. The history surrounding its place in the Washington state wine lore begins with arguably the most important figure in its history — the late Walter Clore. At Clore’s recommendation, Kiona Vineyards founder John Williams — JJ’s grandfather — planted 1.8 acres of the grape. In 1980, he became the first in the U.S. to commercially bottle Lemberger. Within a decade, there were 250 acres of variety in Washington. Alas, less than 50 acres of that remain. Kiona controls 13 of those acres. For any fanatic of Lemberger, the 2018 vintage goes down as one of the best in the past decade. This bottling also begins to mark the transition from secondgeneration winemaker Scott Williams to Tyler — JJ’s brother — who officially took over the winemaking in 2019. Kiona will go down in history as the state’s first threegeneration winemaking program. By its nature, Blaufränkisch is a coolclimate variety. The inherent power behind red wines off Red Mountain makes the Kiona Lemberger more intense with its dark purple fruit, spiciness and easydrinking profile that’s ideal for any backyard bash. In 2018, they crafted the base of this bottling with Lemberger from Kiona Estate Vineyard (85%) and added more complexity with Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Mourvèdre off Scott’s Heart of the Hill Vineyard. Fortunately, the program is too popular for the family to turn its back on Lemberger, which explains why production typically ranges from 3,000 to 5,000 cases, depending on the vintage. “The grape thrives here, producing mediumbodied, fruitdriven wines that pair well with a wide array of foods,” JJ says. “It’s an uncommon grape that’s worthy of attention.”

BRIAN CARTER CELLARS 2018 ORIANA WHITE WINE BLEND, YAKIMA VALLEY, $25 808 cases, 13.6% alc. WOODINVILLE, Wash. — Brian Carter crafts some of the Northwest’s most delicious examples of Chardonnay under the Array Cellars brand, but he produces just one white wine under his eponymous brand. He calls it Oriana, which translates to “golden lady” in Latin, and the Rhônedriven bottling otherwise fits in with the reddominant program at Brian Carter Cellars because it is a blend. After all, Carter drives throughout the Yakima Valley during the growing season in an energyconscious vehicle with a vanity plate that reads BLENDS. The Oregon State University grad, who earned Wine Press Northwest’s award for Washington Winery of the Year in 2015, has created Oriana each vintage since 2006. His template has remained remarkably consistent and stays true to the Yakima Valley. “Hardly a month goes by without someone telling me that Oriana is their favorite white wine,” Carter says. When he launched Oriana, the blend led with Viognier (45%) from Outlook Vineyard followed by Roussanne (35%) and Riesling (20%) from what is now known as Canyon Vineyard Ranch northeast of Prosser. This 2018 version of Oriana features Viognier (49%), Roussanne (41%) and Riesling (10%), and remarkable Olsen Brothers Vineyards near Prosser plays the largest role in this blend, contributing all of the Roussanne and 14% of the Viognier. Solstice Vineyard, a historic site for Riesling, was the home for all of the Riesling and 16% of the Viognier. Both Olsen and Solstice have served as the core of the program for more than a decade, but Dineen Vineyard, a stellar site in the Rattlesnake Hills, provided most of the Viognier in 2018. Carter crafts it as an aromatic and approachable white that lends itself to Pacific Coast fare, including such shellfish as scallops. A third is fermented in neutral French Oak barrels, while the balance was fermented in stainless steel to showcase the notes of orchard blossom, stone fruit and citrus. It is finished with residual sugar of 4.5 grams/liter, which is just barely on the cusp of perceptible sweetness.

Kiona Vineyards, 44612 N. Sunset Road, Benton City, WA 99320, kionawine.com, (509) 5886716.

Last year, the Oriana and the rest of his wines began being poured near the Columbia River at his new wine bar along the Vancouver USA Waterfront.

Leader Block Wine Co. & Eatery, 2026 Main St., Ferndale, WA, 98248, LeaderBlock.com, 360-306-8998.

This fall, Brian Carter Cellars will move from its longtime location along WoodinvilleRedmond Road into a new tasting room — with its own kitchen — two miles to the north at the tony Woodin Creek Village.

ERIC DEGERMAN operates Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. Learn more about wine at GreatNorthwestWine.com.

Brian Carter Cellars, 14419 WoodinvilleRedmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA 98072, (425) 8069463 (WINE), and 660 Waterfront Way, Vancouver, WA 98660, (360) 2161444, BrianCarterCellars.com.

Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest |

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Summer 2021 • Wine Press Northwest

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Wine Press Northwest Summer 2021

Articles inside

COVER STORY

ELLEN ON WINE BY ELLEN LANDIS

ROSÉ IN BLOOM

SWIRL, SNIFF & SIP BY KEN ROBERTSON

OREGON WINE TALES Man cannot live on Pinot alone

THE WINE KNOWS BY ANDY PERDUE

PIQUETTE? YOU BET