6 minute read
Historic Dairy Revives With Modern Spin
Katie L. Grant
Katie L. Grant is communications director for the DNR.
Along the banks of the Sugar River, just 12 miles from downtown Madison, lies Paoli, a small village experiencing a big moment in the spotlight. Upon visiting, there’s no mistaking why.
Whether it’s enjoying the outdoors, shopping or sitting on a patio with local beer and music, Paoli offers a little something for everyone.
One of the newest businesses on the block is Seven Acre Dairy Co. Residing in a lovingly restored 19th century dairy factory, Seven Acre is Wisconsin to its core. Along one edge flows a meandering spring-fed Driftless Region waterway, and throughout the property stand oaks growing since before Wisconsin’s statehood.
When Nic Mink and his wife, Danika, decided they wanted to leave the corporate world and take on a new challenge, Paoli came calling.
“We were inspired to start this project to preserve a large red oak we first saw on the property,” Mink said. “From there, we started learning the stories of the dairy farmers and factory work-
ers who delivered to and worked in the building … it was a no brainer.”
Thanks to Mink, the Seven Acre building is on the National Register of Historic Places as well as Wisconsin’s state register.
“It’s one of my proudest professional accomplishments,” he said. “This building is such an incredible reflection of Wisconsin dairy history, and it could have been razed or scrapped.”
DAIRY AND SPIRITS
Although the building is a critical component of Seven Acre’s success, thinking local and emphasizing sustainability are cornerstones of the business.
“Of course, we have our seven acres that we're stewards of, but we also think about the importance of local agriculture in building our factory, and we really want to continue that tradition,” Mink said. “Seven Acre is, and will be, a place where local food and local agriculture are at its center.”
Seven Acre has become one of the smallest licensed dairy producers in the state, returning production to the facility with the help of Landmark Creamery. That means dairy has now been produced in the facility across three centuries.
Milk and whey from right down the street at Fischerdale Holsteins go into the butter and soft serve that delight guests in the operation’s Dairy Café. Sourcing local ingredients is just one of the ways Seven Acre works to minimize its environmental impact.
Whey was of particular interest to Mink, who really wanted to find ways to put it to use. The cloudy liquid left over when curds are strained from the liquid milk, whey is an abundant byproduct in the process of making many dairy items.
In collaboration with Copper Crow Distillery in Bayfield (the first indigenous distiller in the U.S.), Seven Acre has found a unique approach to using this often-discarded liquid gold — in spirits. “Cheese Cave Dave’s Whey Spirit” is a neutral vodka-like liquor found only at the facility in Paoli.
No, Cheese Cave Dave isn’t real, though he is based on Mink’s uncle. “We certainly could have imagined someone like him living in the cheese caves,” Mink said.
DINING LOCALLY
Another facet of Seven Acre, within the same restored building, is The Kitchen — described by Mink as “part supper club, part grandma’s kitchen, but elevated just enough that people are excited to come eat there.”
Intended to be an inclusive space, the restaurant centers its menu on local produce and meats, sourced as much from the Sugar River Valley as possible. It’s just one more way Seven Acre supports local agriculture.
Whether you’re stopping by for an upscale dinner on date night, to grab coffee on a beautiful Saturday morning or to enjoy a refreshing grasshopper cocktail by the Sugar River on a hot summer day, it’s easy to see the thoughtful ways Seven Acre has incorporated the commitment to local sustainability into the restoration of the historic dairy factory.
LEARN MORE
For details about Seven Acre Dairy Co. in Paoli, check sevenacredairyco.com.
SEVEN ACRE BUTTER CORN RISOTTO
Celebrate June Dairy Month and Wisconsin’s dairy culture at home by making this comforting butter corn risotto from Seven Acre Dairy Co. chef Troy Cox. Add a sustainable flair to your own version by shopping local at your farmer’s market or choosing local dairy and produce at your grocery store. Make meal time easier by completing steps 1 and 2 a day or two before, bringing the rest of the dish together just before serving.
INGREDIENTS
1 stick local butter
2 ounces diced shallots
8 ounces Arborio rice
12 ounces Pinot Grigio or any dry white wine; more vegetable stock will work if you’d prefer 1½ quarts vegetable stock
1 cup sweet corn, removed from the cob
2 ounces chopped chives
½ cup heavy whipping cream
6 ounces grated gruyere like Roth Grand Cru Salt, to taste
3 tablespoons honey
DIRECTIONS
1. Heat a large flat-bottomed pan to low heat. Add ¼ cup of butter (half a stick). Once melted, add shallots and cook until translucent. Add rice and increase heat to medium-low, cooking until rice is just starting to toast. Add wine, cooking for about two minutes until the alcohol has cooked off, then add vegetable stock. Lower heat, cover and simmer for 20 minutes or until rice is tender.
2. If making ahead, remove rice from pan and spread across a sheet tray to cool.
3. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat. Add a tablespoon of butter and melt, then add corn and chives. Cook for about 30 seconds, then add heavy cream.
4. Immediately after adding the cream, add rice to the pan. Reduce the cream, heating the mixture through.
5. Fold in the grated cheese while the mixture continues to reduce. Season with salt, to taste. Fold in honey and remove from heat.
6. Serve hot off the stove, garnishing with a knob of butter and grated cheese.
