Tie magazine • issue one • summer 2014
BEAUTY IN THE
[EXTRA]
ORDINARY €10.00 / £8.00 2014
welcome to
Tie magazine
6
Tie magazine
What’s ordinary to you may be extraordinary for another, It’s that friction between these two that delights us.
7
these people are Tied together Editor-in-chief Nina Giglio Art Director Sine Lund Magazine Manager Louise Vejsager Text Editor Justine Wouterson Visuals Manager Janice van Alebeek Fashion Editor Yolanda De Hoz
8
Contributors Charlotte Olthoff Christiaan van Hattem Thiago Ribeiro Joris Bruning Esveva Derksen Fred van ’t Slot Javier Ansotegui Maxime Zandijk Else van Herpen Florence van Sitteren Ruby Cruden
Maartje Anna Carly Heemstra Juanita Prawitasari Tia MĂźller Liam Wouterson Elizabeth Mitchell Katie Marie Clarke Puja Kotecha Will Harris Charlotte Brown Shannon Lawlor Calie Calister
Tie magazine
A special thanks to Frank Jurgen Wijlens Petra Boers Charlotte Lokin Suzanne van Rooij Brejge Lampe Retna Wooller Linnemore Nefdt Daphne Boer Pyhai Jin Sifra Soer Nienke Sinnema Jeremy Leslie Peter van Rhoon Patrick Waterhouse Peter Bas Mensink Koos de Boer Georgette Koning Helmke van Geel Kim Bakker Suzanne Hertogs
Our cover Photography Fred van’t Slot Styling by Justine Wouterson Nina Giglio Hair by Javier Ansotegui Make-up by Maxime Zandijk Model Else van Herpen Clothing shirt American Apparel jacket Saint Tropez necklace WE
Printed at Robstolk Mauritskade 55, 1092 AD Amsterdam, The Netherlands +31 (0)20 668 42 46 Published by AMFI – Amsterdam Fashion Institute Hogeschool van Amsterdam Mauritskade 11,1091 GC Amsterdam, The Netherlands +31 (0)20 595 45 55 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form by any means, including photocopying or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the editor, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non commercial uses permitted by copyright law.
9
.COM
get to know
Tie better
Check us out at our website, Twitter, Facebook and Instagram for the newest updates and exclusive TIE content. Are you in for the extra ordinary?
dressing down the knots To dress down the knot: to tighten down a knot to its functioning form
Tie explores the beauty in the [extra]ordinary. Whilst recovering from a global crisis, we learn to embrace simplicity and indulge in it. We turn to the way our grandmas used to cook, feel compelled to learn more about our neighbours and start to see that old dress sitting in our closet with different eyes. In short, we are redefining the concept of good by finding joy in the mundane things. This is our first issue, based on a triad of elements that are very close to our hearts – style, craftsmanship and personal stories. Intertwined in all of them are the creative expressions that, in our vision, can unveil extraordinary aspects of daily life. Simple objects as bike tires are made into architecturally built necklaces, earrings and bracelets; food from the trash is cooked into delicious meals; bikes gain their own voice. To Tie, every life contains an aspect of the ordinary. But if every individual has its own definition of ordinary, portraying it gains that little ‘extra’. And that’s what we’re about. Tie team
editors letter
11
in this first issue 12
3 beautiful canal cities
10
two slightly delusional characters
12
crafted twist
16
back to the roots
18
[extra]ordinary places to explore in Amsterdam, Stockholm and Venice
Britt Avelon Tan talks about the designer duo’s (extra)ordinary process
how a company in Japan updated a century old craft
ordinary materials made into beautiful jewellery
Tie magazine
feeling hot, hot, hot! 6 things that can give your summer that unexpected twist
danish dynamite
Danish duo crafts sustainable jewellery out of everyday objects
the morning after
forget the hangover: it’s time to walk proud in the morning after
super shopping super things fighting for sustainable justice
dive and dine tomorrow it’s trash on the menu
26
kaleidoscope clash
clash of prints – it just goes so well together
46
wear your story 27
32
41
42
make your scar stand out instead of covering it up
58
hjort, the elf
61
bike talk
66
quilt away
76
a girl with quite an interesting hobby
Olivia, Jaap, Mathilda and Arthur share their cycle stories
9 things that will make you look to quilting in a different way
13
THREE BEAUTIFUL
CANAL CITIES text and illustration Sine Lund
Enjoy Amsterdam, Venice and Stockholm, through its streets, canals and bridges. In our first issue Tie will give you a guide to the most interesting and [extra] ordinary spots in three cities with one thing in common: beautiful canals.
HOBBY HEAVEN AT ALBERT CUYP MARKET
City: Amsterdam Jan de Grote Kleinvakman is craftpersons heaven on earth. If you love working on DIY projects but could never find a shop that sells all the materials in one place, this is the store that will solve all your problems. Address: Albert Cuypstraat 203, Amsterdam – The Netherlands Website: jandegrotekleinvakman.nl
RELEASE YOUR INNER BANKSY
City: Amsterdam If you have ever looked at a graffiti piece and thought: ‘I wish I could do that!’, here’s your chance. Join the graffiti workshop from Pure Amsterdam and learn how to make awesome art like Banksy. Practical info: You’ll get a full 2 hours workshop with professional supervision and graffiti materials for €60. Website: pureamsterdam.com
14
HANDMADE MASQUERADE MASKS
City: Venice If you want to get your hands on a traditional handmade mask to disguise yourself at the next masquerade ball, you have to go to La Bottega dei Mascareri. They are one of the few shops in Venice that keeps the art of mask making alive by using the papier-mâché technique and building every mask by hand. Address: San Polo 80, Venice – Italy
PAY AS YOU FEEL
A SECRET CITY VIEW
City: Stockholm Monteliusvägen is a well kept secret in Stockholm, with probably the best view of beautiful Gamla Stan and Kungsholmen districts, tourist-free. So if you need some quiet time in the middle of a big city, with a breathtaking view as a bonus, this place is perfect. Address: Monteliusvägen, Söedermalm, Stockholm - Sweden
SUSTAINABLE EYEWEAR
City: Amsterdam At the Trust café located at the Albert Cuyp market, you can have delicious coffee, fair-trade organic cake and good karma. The best part? You decide how much it will cost you. This concept cafe offers food, art and joy for everyone. According to them: ‘come as you are, pay as you feel’.
City: Venice Sustainability has now reached eyewear design and Optician Robert Vascellari is spreading the word with his handmade glasses. Made with materials derived from cotton, his glasses are finished off with wood and bee wax. If you are looking for fairly priced sustainable glasses, make sure to visit Ottica Vascellari in Venice.
Address: Albert Cuypstraat 210, Amsterdam - The Netherlands
Address: Ruga Rialto 1030, Venice - Italy
Tie magazine
MOST BEAUTIFUL BOOKSHOP IN THE WORLD
FIRE STATION + VINTAGE SHOP BANANA SHAPED RINGS AND PORCELAIN NECKLACES City: Stockholm Stockholm-based store Platina is not only a shop, but also contemporary art gallery for handmade jewellery. Whether you are a minimalist, a hipster or a fashionista, this place has got what you are looking for to stand out and make a statement. Or maybe just to buy a special gift for your best friend.
City: Stockholm Herr Judit’s is located in a century-old former fire station. Here, you can find everything from vintage furniture, clothing, lighting to jewellery and accessories, collected by the owners from places all over the world. If you are not swinging by Stockholm any time soon, don’t worry, they also have a webshop! Address: Krukmakargatan 22, Stockholm - Sweden Website: herrjudit.se
Address: Odengatan 68, Stockholm - Sweden Website: platina.se
MOSAIC HOTEL IN THE CITY OF BRIDGES PERFUMES AND SCENTED CANDLES
City: Stockholm Swedish basketball player Ben Gorham used his childhood memories of trips to India to make wonderful unisex fragrances sold under the brand Byredo. Besides perfumes, the brand also makes scented candles that had its popularity skyrocketed because of its sleek and clean packaging design. Byredo has stores all over Europe, so if you are too busy playing tourist in Stockholm to shop, you can still get your hands on a sample when you go home.
City: Venice Domus Orsoni, the mosaic furnaces of the Orsoni family, is an old glass-maker workshop turned into a stylish decorated hotel. With breathtaking mosaics on the walls and a big garden, the hotel also gives you the chance to visit the Orsoni’s ateliers and furnaces. If you are interested in mosaics, they also give courses so that you can learn to how make your own mosaic work.
City: Venice The Acqua Alta Bookshop calls itself “the most beautiful bookshop in the world”, with good reason for that. Inside the bookshop there’s a gondola, a bathtub filled with books and a staircase made of encyclopedias that leads to a view of a small canal. Old, used and new, English, Italian or German, here you can find everything your book-heart is beating for. Adress: Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa 5176 Venice - Italy
OASIS IN THE CITY
City: Amsterdam The Buurtboerderij is a farmhouse turned into a city-oasis. Visitors are welcome everyday of the week until 4pm to attend different workshops, practice yoga, donate clothes to the give-away shop or just sit under a three and read their favourite book. Address: Spaarndammerdijk 319, Amsterdam - The Netherlands Website: buurtboerderij.nl
Address: Sestiere Cannaregio 1045, Venice – Italy
Address: Flagship store – Mäster Samuelsgatan 6, Stockholm - Sweden Website: byredo.com
3 beautiful cities
15
16
Tie magazine
TWO SLIGHTLY
DELUSIONAL CHARACTERS text Janice van Alebeek, photos fredfarrowbrittavelontan personal archive
The Paris-based designer duo Fred Farrow and Britt Avelon Tan combines new and innovative materials with traditional techniques to create extraordinary designs. Tie had a chat with Britt about their thoughts on the unconventional, ecofriendliness and fun.
delusional characters
17
“We like to create a bigger world around everything, something more than just a wardrobe”
YOU LIVE IN PARIS. WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO LIVE THERE INSTEAD OF, SAY, AMSTERDAM?
Fred has worked for Balmain in Paris, so we already had a network there. Also, Paris is a true fashion city, there is so much to work with. There are so many skills available to us, like really talented dressmakers and embroiderers. A lot of times these people work for the big fashion houses, so they also have a lot of experience. Also, the presence of these maisons makes it easy to just go out and have a look at what they are doing.
WAS IT A BIG TRANSITION TO MOVE TO PARIS?
Not really, it is only a 4/5-hour drive from Holland to Paris so it is still pretty close. Close enough to regularly see people from Holland or for them to visit us there. And there are a lot of fun and nice people in Paris as well! We are pretty much true cosmopolitans, so we could be and live everywhere we think.
WHAT GIVES YOU THE MOST PLEASURE IN YOUR WORK?
One of the fun things is definitely the phase where we can explore and do a lot of research. We can go out and immerse ourselves in specific things and go all out on that, making our own fabrics, researching techniques etc. Something that is also a lot of fun are the different collaborations we can do with photographers, filmmakers, and musicians. We like to create a bigger world around everything, something more than just a wardrobe, and we like to add something of a real experience. It’s all about the interaction with people in and outside of the fashion industry. There are so many ways other people can be a positive influence on a certain project.
18
YOU’VE TALKED ABOUT RESEARCH, WHAT DOES THAT LOOK LIKE? WHAT HAPPENS IN THIS PHASE?
We have our own style and certain frames from which we can work. We start by looking at new possibilities, like new ways to use organic dye, trying to use new plants or techniques. We also do a lot of research in fabrics and in crafts. We go to small markets and see what is available in fabrics or even paintings or print, pretty much anything we can use. These are things we always do: we go out to find things and we spend a lot of time reading and researching.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR OWN STYLE?
Our style a is mix of some different things. It’s raw chique, nonconformist, but we also always try to look at the couture, we don’t want to loose ourselves in just some weirdness. There is always a certain cohesion between the weirdness and something that is more ‘understandable’. There is an edge about it but people still think: ‘I can wear that coat’. It is a unity between weird and traditional classic.
WHAT IS THE MOST UNCONVENTIONAL THING YOU’VE DONE FOR THE BRAND?
The unconventional for us it may be the fact that we try to have the influence of others in our work through, for example, collaborations with other artists, as I mentioned earlier. Once we created a sweater that took 40 hours to make. That was unconventional from a commercial standpoint of course. It’s because we are still a small label that we can be very free and experiment with a lot of different things. We don’t have to constrain ourselves to do commercial work, it gives us more freedom and that freedom is something we want to keep.
Tie magazine
“Our entire workshop, for example, is built and furnished from reused wood we found while walking around with a shopping cart”
YOU’VE MENTIONED SEVERAL MATERIALS AND TECHNIQUES THAT ARE VERY ECO-FRIENDLY. IS THAT AN IMPORTANT THEME IN YOUR CREATIONS?
We think it’s impossible to start new things without taking ecofriendliness and sustainability into account. It’s just old-fashioned to ignore these things. You can never do it 100% eco-friendly, but we do try to look locally for good fabrics and re-use a lot of material. Our entire workshop, for example, is built and furnished from reused wood we found while walking around with a shopping cart. Come to think of it, that is the most unconventional thing we did! It feels good to know that you’ve made something new out of something old and not creating more waste. It is definitely something that is important to us.
WHAT TIES YOU TWO TOGETHER?
It is mainly that we have the same mindset, we understand each other when nobody else does. That’s in part because we’ve known each other for so long. We want the same things and we have the same frame of mind. We have a certain freedom and we are driven in our way of thinking.
HOW DOES YOUR COLLABORATION WORK? DO YOU BRING SOMETHING SPECIFIC TO THE PROJECT INDIVIDUALLY?
process can go too slowly. Now we try to do it more separately. It’s not really that we have different specialties, it’s more about having a little bit of a different view on something and in the end this comes together as one. This way of working has evolved out of our history of working together. In the end it’s all about the way we complement each other.
WHAT DO YOU DO TO UNWIND AFTER A BUSY WEEK?
Sometimes there really isn’t an end in a week for us, but after a certain collection we tend to sleep a lot! Sometimes when we take a break during work we watch a TV-show. Last collection we watched a lot of House of Cards, but sometimes when an episode was too long we would just watch an episode of Family Guy.
WHAT IS SOMETHING THAT NOT A LOT OF PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT YOU BUT YOU WISH MORE PEOPLE KNEW?
We actually don’t have anything we think more people should know about us personally. There is one thing that people probably know but I would like to highlight even more is that our entire existence is possible because of all the people that want to help us. From friends to family there are so many people that are there for us to help with pretty much everything.
Lately we have been trying to do that more and more. Usually we both work on something, discuss everything and sometimes this
delusional characters
19
©Reproduction
CRAFTED TWIST text Christiaan van Hattem photo Justine Wouterson
From the hands of artisans in Arimatsu, Japan, to the world, Suzusan strives – successfully - to introduce the ancient craftwork Shibori into the global canvas.
Having been supervising the twisting, tying, binding, crumpling, compressing, stitching and folding of fabrics for 40 years, Hiroshi Murase is one of the forces responsible for keeping the ancient-old Japanese craft of Shibori alive. The fabric-dyeing technique that uses indigo as the main pigment and gives shapes and patterns to fabrics like cotton and silk is the main field of action of Murase’s family company, Suzusan, established over a century ago in Arimatsu, Japan.
in Japan. In its origins, the hand-colouring process was used by all social levels. By the rich, the technique was used to make the high aristocracy clothes, as kimonos. By the poor, it was known as way of making old clothes look like new, since they were reshaped and recolored.
“Shaped-resist dyeing” is the closest translation of the Japanese word Shibori. After sessions of one or combined methods of shaping the fabric, like tying, binding and folding, the threeRENOVATING TRADITIONS dimensional piece goes through the dyeing process, usually Hiroshi Murase is the 4th generation in charge of the familydipped in a mix of natural indigo and water, but with the based company. Suzusan’s director was born in Arimatsu, a possibility of being made of diverse pigments. In the final stage, town in Japan close to Nagoya with a the wrappings are removed, revealing “Suzusan keeps alive the pieces of fabric that did not had strong tradition in Shibori for over 400 years. Murase’s son, Hiroyuki, took over contact with the tincture, producing and gives a new the expansion of the company to the unique sophisticated and intricate Western world in early 2008, acting as the dimension to a tradition forms of patterns, structures and colour creative director of Suzusan in Düsseldorf, that has been practiced shades. There is a wide range of products Germany. Through the company, both developed, such as lamp shades, fashion father and son seek to put an end to the for over four centuries” accessories, clothes and more. decades-long decline of the textile art in the Japanese cities of Arimatsu and Narumi. With clients like CRAFTSMEN AND ARTISTS Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Junya Watanabe, Suzusan is According to the company’s website, through Suzusan the responsible for the production of the three dimensional fabrics Murases seek to “strengthen the craftwork as a profession” by to several high fashion brands, keeping alive and giving a new empowering its workers. The artisans from the Japanese cities dimension to a tradition that has been practiced for over four of Arimatsu and Narumi are considered as they meant to be: centuries. It is not hard to be impressed by the power of the artists with unique crafting abilities, once each one will produce Shibori technique: the large range of possibilities within the different pieces according to their special skills. The artisans hand crafting process is fascinating. Turning the blank ‘canvas’ receive what is described by the company as a “share of the price that was initially made of silk or wool – nowadays the raw fabric premium”, being valued as individuals who are helping to keep can be made of a large range of materials – into a 3-dimensional the practice, which was declining through the years, alive. coloured shape, Shibori first appeared around the 8th century
20
Tie magazine
OLD AND NEW varied types With numerous techniques, the basic Shibori crafts are Miura Shibori, Arashi Shibori, Kumo Shibori and Suji Shibori
indigo blue More than fifty species of plants worldwide can be used to obtain the indigo color. After the plant’s maturation, the leaves are dried and soaked in alkaline water. What’s left after draining is the indigo powder, which has unique qualities like its resistance to shading and the fact that it doesn’t require any toxic metal-based mordants for the dyeing process.
world shibori network Helping keep Shibori’s traditions alive, the World Shibori Network (WSN) was founded in 1992, exchanging knowledge about the technique around the globe through seminars and symposiums.
more info Expert Yoshiko Wada’s book, Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing, takes a deep look on the traditions and techniques of the ancient art.
crafted twist
In an age where the slow fashion movement is gaining its strength among consumers, the Shibori technique finds its way of reinventing itself through companies like Suzusan. Created in the late 2000’s, the term slow fashion represents the rise of consumer’s interest in the whole manufacturing and production process of what he is buying. From knowing the origins of the raw materials to the impact the production has in the environment, the buying process in slow fashion expresses the yearning for human touch. Consumers want to have the feeling that the product is not merely an industrial result, but something unique and built by human hands.
“Consumers want to have the feeling that the product is something unique and built by human hands” Each artisan that works with Shibori is specialized in one technique, making exclusivity a natural product of the craft. In opposition, the large-scale industry replicates pieces with digital Shibori prints that can be applied in all sorts of surfaces, taking the technique beyond fabrics. That is how the tradition is given new shapes and possibilities, but attributing a growing value to its makers and paying tribute to its history. Shibori is all about keeping a tradition alive by looking at the past and breathing new air into the authentic aspects of craftsmanship and rare technique.
21
BACK TO THE ROOTS photos Maartje Anna styling Louise Vejsager and Sine Lund
What goes around comes around in the shape of handcrafted accessories – all with an ethnic accent that will make you look twice.
22
Tie magazine
shirt Vibe Johansson price on request • necklace C&T price on request
back to the roots
23
blazer by AMFI, price on request • necklace SCHAKEL price on request
24
Tie magazine
bracelets JULIVERSE price on request
back to the roots
25
26
Tie magazine
shirt COS 89.00 • necklace C&T price on request
back to the roots
27
shirt COS 89.00 • necklace Bas Bouman price on request
28
Tie magazine
back to the roots
29
The New York Times 36 Hours: 125 weekends in Europe city guide • €29.95
Guides are mostly used by tourists, but why not take a chance seeing your own city from a refreshing perspective? It’s easy to end up at the same bar and with the same crowd of people every Friday night. But by letting the book lead the way, you might end up at the coolest place you didn’t even know was right around the corner.
Samoa Bright Blond sunglasses • €87.00
Funky Veg Kit grow your own kit • €18.00
The smartest sunglasses ever, they can hide your darting eyes from common view. You can now walk around the streets taking a peek at everyone without being judged. And if you feel like stopping by the French Alpes and look for some hot skiing guys, you’ll automatically blend in.
Why go to the farmers market when you can have one at home? Release your inner gardner with this grow your own kit or gift it to that friend that never eats his greens. After all, a healthy tip never hurts, right? From now on, no more excuses for not eating healthy. You have your own Funky Veg Kit at home, providing your meals with colorful – and funky – vegetables.
FEELING
HOT, HOT, HOT! Things that will give your summer that little extra.
Monkey Business Sunnyside egg shaper • €8.00
Fried eggs are so last year, right? Wrong. With the egg shaper from Monkey Business you can start your morning with the sun shining even if the weather is not in its best mood. We bet that even the most grumpy early bird will put a smile on his face when fried eggs are served like this with a toast on the side.
30
What-a-Melon FieldCandy tent • €477.00
Instead of camping at festivals like everyone else does in summertime, why not start the party in your own garden? Save it on the festival ticket to splurge on this Field Candy tent. Get your seven-yearold nephew and put marshmallows over the grill. We can’t promise you won’t wake up craving a watermelon in the middle of the night, though.
The Rosa 001-AVRI Gsus Industries • €120.00
Going to the spa isn’t the only way to get skin care anymore, since these jeans are now doing the work. With aloe vera in its fabric, the denim pair hydrates your skin and increases its elasticity through collagen and elastin repair. You don’t need to feel guilty anymore about forgetting to soak your legs in lotion.
Tie magazine
DANISH DYNAMITE text Louise Vejsager photos TouChe personal archive
It all started with me laying there in the dark box with all my friends. We had been there for a while and really didn’t know what would happen to us. But then the two girls found us. We had never seen them before – but what they did to us, was amazing. A whole new way of using us. An unexpected way of making us usable and beautiful again. They brought us back to life.
danish dynamite
31
TOUCHÉ FROM THE START
The duo that makes up TouChé met in a youth club roughly 3 years ago. Tanja, also known as Tou, just finished her studies at the conservatory of music. Christine – Ché – already worked there. They were in charge of all the creative activities with the kids, who were mainly from the 4th and 5th grade. However, most of the stuff made was very botched and ugly. Tanja explains how they became aware of each other’s skills: “One day we found a big plastic bag filled with bike tires and a book about ideas of making crafts. We thought it was so ugly – really not nice. But there was something in the materials that made us think that we could make something very nice out of it.” “We started a little different than others. We started making jewellery for ourselves. Immediately after, people we knew and didn’t know started asking us where we got the jewellery from. When we told them that we made them ourselves, everyone started asking if we were selling them somewhere – of course we said no!” After several times of being asked that, Tanja and Christine started thinking about names for the jewellery and the potential company. As Ché says: “All of a sudden we had our first little collection of sustainable jewellery made out of bike tires.”
Christine and Tanja at their studio. Just after this photo a neighbor walked in, asking to borrow some tools
“All of a sudden we had our first little collection of sustainable jewellery made out of bike tires”
With this they went to a small shop in Copenhagen and sold them almost the whole collection. “We went from being craft teachers of 4th and 5th graders to a company that has just sold their first collection in a real store.” By looking at them, it’s clear that they still get butterflies in their stomach just thinking about how everything took place.
32
Tie magazine
It takes anywhere from 15 minutes to 3 hours to chop a bike tire, depending on the design. First cut lengthwise, the tires are then washed and cut into different sizes
FROM TRASH TO TREASURE
“If we see someone come along with an old kitchen or a trailer, we are there like vultures.” This is TouChé’s approach to finding new materials and new inspiration for their designs. “Trash and scrap are generally overlooked. I think, for example, rubber gloves could be a really exciting product to make something out of ”, says Tou. In their opinion, things being thrown out every day could be used again in another way. By getting to know them, you’ll get that it’s all about seeing the potential in something that others would see as a lost object. It’s by going in the ‘wrong’ direction that makes them think in a completely different and innovative way.
“By working towards achieving a timeless design, we raise the chances that our customers do not throw our products away”
TouChé has a very clear idea of how they want their design process to be. Because of that, some see the two girls as very provocative designers. But turning trash into treasure is part of their brand philosophy. “We want to give all of our designs a personality. It takes time and a lot of inspiration walks. But by working towards achieving a timeless design, we raise the chances that our customers will not throw our products away. If we just jump on the ‘fashion train’ and design colour and trend based jewellery, it would be short termed and we would completely lose ourselves.”
“We are creating a hedgehog to wear as jewellery. A hedgehog is spiky, but ours is soft. We’re doing it out of used bicycle tires – a contrast there is to see and feel.” Imagination has no limits; as long as it’s insanely good design, or as Ché would say: “as long as we can do it with scissors”.
danish dynamite
33
MIRRORED IN THE DESIGNS
As individuals they are not really the types that want to rely on others. When it comes to decision making about their brand or new designs, the duo remains very independent. You don’t see them copying trends or styles from big designers in fashion magazines, “You can quickly fall into the same box as the others” says Tou. “Every piece is made with love”, they add with laughter. TouChé knows how to use their network and never hesitates to try new things. “We are not afraid to ask for help or use our contacts. We are not trying to make us out to be more than who we are. We have come a long way and worked our way up. We know that we are not design giants, so if we get a ‘no’ here and there, it doesn’t hurt our pride”.
“You can quickly fall into the same box as the others”
They inspire each other like an old married couple. Sometimes it’s hard and they have to compromise, but it always ends up with a well-worked design and that is certainly connected with the fact that their way of looking at design is completely different. “We understand each other’s reactions and because of the intense work it feels like we’re acting like a married couple sometimes. But we’re on the same page, and that is the trick of having a business together”, Tou says. The design duo is like yin and yang, but together they definitely work. As Ché says: “Because we do not hold grudges, we work on everything. Like our jewellery – they keep on getting better and better.”
34
Tie magazine
6 FUNNY FACTS ABOUT TOUCHÉ They´re like Yin and Yang: Tanja (Tou) - Christine (Ché) Digital (Tou) - Visual (Ché) Hot Coffee (Tou) - Iced Coffee (Ché) Realist (Tou) - Dreamer (Ché) If Tou&Ché have a bad day, they like going to the hardware store. They think it’s an amazing and inspiring place to be. There are a lot of cute guys who are always helpful – like if they have never seen a girl before They think powertools are the best! Tou&Ché have a straight up way to say things to each other. They are like guys, they never hold grudges They give funny names to the jewellery: The Bird Chest, The Hedgehog, The Slug Tou was one of the stars in Danish ‘Voice’ 2013. Check out her fanpage at: www.facebook.com/TanjaFossdalmusiker
danish dynamite
35
THE
MORNING
AFTER photos Joris Bruring, styling: Janice van Alebeek Yolanda de Hoz
After a night of partying and excessive drinking she woke up god-knows where. In the early morning hours, hair sticking out in all directions, makeup half gone, with her undies in a pocket on her purse.
36
Tie magazine
sweater Jutka & Riska 25.00 • bra stylist’s own • skirt stylist’s own • bag Amsterdam Bag 85.00 • shoes Saucony 125.00
morning after
37
sweater Zara 19.95 • necklace Jutka & Riska 14.99 • skirt Zara 49.95 • bag Jutka & Riska
38
Tie magazine
sweater Yaya 79.95 • skirt H&M 49.95 • watch Fossil 119.00 • ring Jutka & Riska 9.99 • shoes Zara 69.95 • socks stylists own
morning after
39
40
Tie magazine
sweater Tenue de Nîmes 99.95 • skirt Monki 35.00 • shoes stylist’s own • socks stylist’s own
morning after
41
sweater Tenue de Nîmes 109.95 • dress H&M 59.95 • shoes River Island 30.00 • socks stylist’s own
42
Tie magazine
sweater Spijkers en Spijkers 95.00 • dress Jutka & Riska 79.99 • lingerie stylist’s own
morning after
43
This bedroom needs some
INVOICE ADDRESS Company Name Adress Zip code City Country Phone Email Prices for a 1 year subscription (4 copies) The Netherlands €36.00 Europe/World €60.00 (postage included)
DELIVERY ADDRESS Company Name Adress Zip code City Country Phone Email Invoice account
Date • Signature
Please send your order to TIE magazine • Subscription Service Mauritskade 11 • 1091 GC • AMSTERDAM Phone • +31 (0)20 595 45 55
Technologically powered, environmentally friendly, these things are everything but average
SHOPPPING 2.
1.
3.
5.
4.
8.
6.
7.
9.
10.
1. Naked and Famous Pineapple selvedge chambray jeans made from 20% pineapple yarn. It has excellent heat and moisture absorption, great for warm springtime days. 2. Equipped with a chip, you can find your lost Blacksocks through a wireless detector. 3. Rite in the rain notebook has a patented, environmentally responsible, all-weather writing paper that sheds water and enables you to write anywhere, in any weather. 4. Sprout is a sustainable pencil that grows into 11 different fresh herbs including basil, cilantro and rosemary. 5. The Tweeting Bra sends a tweet every time you unhook it, through a signal sent to your smartphone. The tweets are about breast cancer awareness and act as reminders for women to check for breast cancer more often. 6. What Happened bandages from Urban Outfitters make your wound a little less lame, being topped with awesome injury explanations including “shark bite,” “ninja fight” and “dance off”. 7. When a bamboo made Bogobrush is bought, another one is given to someone in need. 8. Paperback adhesive notes allow you to do a quick sketch or make a list the old-fashioned way, and slap it on the back of your phone. 9. The leather Mighty from Handbag Butler purse charges your phone on the go by featuring a hidden high capacity rechargeable battery. Works with all micro-usb smart phones and iPhones. 10. The Sigmo voice translator is a voice translating device that revolutionises the way you are able to communicate and understand by translating 25 languages.
super shopping
45
DIV E AND DINE text Justine Wouterson photo Liam Wouterson illustration Sine Lund
46
Tie magazine
“The divers fully loaded their fridges with delicious products , which probably cost them no more than a filthy pair of pants” Want to save a little extra so you can finally buy that to-diefor-dress you keep drooling at every time you pass the shop window? Would you like to see your city from a different and unexpected angle? Or are you just looking for a little more excitement in your daily routine and challenge your own kitchen skills? Good news: this can be arranged. What you need is a dumpster and just a little guts. Although the ‘doggy bag’ has become more and more accepted and supermarkets are slowly extending expiration dates, we still throw out 13.000.000.000 tons of food every year. And that is a lot – almost one-third of the total global production. Isn’t that a shame?
WORLDWIDE FEVER
That’s when Dumpster Divers came to the rescue. A couple of years back people started to discover – or decided to finally share their knowledge – that stores and restaurants throw away large amounts of food on a daily basis. These thrown-out products often haven’t even expired yet or have just reached their best before-date. “Unacceptable”, some dare devils thought, and they jumped in without any hesitation. Fresh fruit, healthy vegetables, perfectly good dairy products – the divers fully loaded their fridges with delicious products, which probably cost them no more than a filthy pair of pants. They found wealth that others overlooked. What started with a couple of individuals became a worldwide movement. That’s great, of course, all these people who do their bit to decrease consumption waste, but it doesn’t do much on a larger scale. Maybe going through the trash isn’t for everyone. But if someone did it for you, taking out the best products, would that change something?
WASTE INTO WEALTH
The dumpster diving movement has evolved to the next step: trash dining. Take for instance The Gleaners Kitchen – a restaurant in Somerville, Massachusetts, where they turn ‘waste into wealth’, serving fresh meals from which every ingredient was found in the trash. And they don’t charge customers anything: the restaurant believes that access to good, healthy food is a universal right and strives to provide that at no cost to anyone who asks. Amsterdam even has its own trash catering service. Dumpsterdam offers the most sustainable dinners you can think of. You can hire them for every occasion and even ask for a completely organic, vegetarian or vegan menu. And it’s not just local individuals who are trying to make a difference. Also high end, posh restaurants are redefining their thoughts about what’s ‘good’ food and looking for fresh ways to fill their menus with sustainable dishes. Take for instance ‘trash fish dining’. What fishermen consider left over junk, chefs now ask for specifically. Instead of only serving well-known and therefore more expensive fish, restaurants order littleknown local catches. Try to eat a butter-poached scorpion fish and you’ll swear you’re eating lobster. Diving in yourself or letting others do the dirty work – either way you’re doing a good thing here. Still not convinced?
dive and dine
47
SIX REASONS WHY YOU SHOULD EAT FOOD FROM THE TRASH
YOU’LL BE THE AWESOME DINNER PARTY-FRIEND
With dumpster diving there is a big chance you’ll find more than you hoped for. Never unpacked boxes full of good stuff and large amounts of fresh fruit and vegetables with not a single flaw. It would be a waste to leave it in there, but eating everything yourself might also be a bridge too far. So why not invite a bunch of friends over to help you get rid of all these lovely delights? ‘Going Dutch’ is so last year. It’s your treat. Depending on how fanatical you are, maybe even have them over a couple times a week.
IT MAKES YOUR DAILY ROUTINE A LITTLE MORE EXCITING
Although dumpster diving is not illegal (as long as the dumpster is on public street), the feeling of sneaking around and not getting caught will give you a nice adrenaline rush. And imagine the satisfying feeling you’ll get when you discover the supermarket has thrown out your favourite desert. So forget strolling through the store without having a clue what to make for dinner tonight or being bound to just the affordable ‘must buy’ of the week. There are far more exciting ways to shop for your groceries.
AND DID YOU KNOW?
SURPRISE
YOU CAN USE YOUR CREATIVITY ON A WHOLE OTHER LEVEL
THAT JAMIE OLIVER COOK BOOK WILL FINALLY BE OF USE
‘SAVE ON’ MEANS ‘SAVE FOR’
IT’S THE PERFECT WAY TO INGRATIATE YOURSELF TO YOUR BOSS
With trash dining it’s not ‘what would I like to eat tonight?’, it’s ‘what do I have to work with today?’ It dares you to think differently and really challenges your kitchen skills. You’ll need to figure out how to combine all of your findings and make them as tasty as possible. And it’s not only taste. It’s also about making it visibly as attractive as you can, since you’ve seen it laying in the trash. You really want to prove yourself that it was worth getting it out of that container.
We don’t really have to tell you how saving money on one thing will get you more to spend on another, do we? Apart from the pleasure of walking through the store and knowing almost everything you need is already in you kitchen for free, it’s a great feeling to think of on what to spend the money you would have normally ‘eaten’. You’re probably just a couple of ‘dives’ away from finally buying that awesome vintage purse you’ve been longing for quite some time now.
Plastic bags are easier to recycle and require less energy to produce than paper bags.
48
PAPER
Recycling one ton of paper saves 17 trees, 2 barrels of oil, 4,100 kilowatts of energy, 3.2 cubic yards of landfill space and 60 pounds of air pollution.
YUK!
Your dear sister-in-law got it for you two Christmases ago, but it ended up standing unused on a bookshelf while you keep coming up with the same dinners over and over again. But with a fridge stuffed with ingredients you might have never bought yourself, that book might come in handy. The question ‘What would Jamie do?’ will get the creativity flowing and make sure you’ll always come up with something new and surprising to serve.
Have you been hoping for a promotion but it seems impossible to get your boss to notice you? Then this is the way to go. They say love goes through the stomach, so why not just try that at the office? Just take some delicious leftovers that you weren’t able to finish even with your friends over the other night. Don’t be obvious and shove it under his nose, but very subtle place it in the hallway around the corner of his office. Just add a little ‘enjoy’ card with your name on it and that promotion might be closer than you think.
Used condoms were recycled into hair bands in Southern China. They sold quite well, although several physicians voiced concerns about potential hygiene problems.
QUEEN OF TRASH
The U.S. is the #1 trash-producing country. With only 5% of the world’s population, it generates 40% of global waste.
Tie magazine
2.
1. 3. 4.
5.
ALBERT HEIJN
All over town With an overload of special offers and bargains sometimes complete batches get discarded. This is definitely the place that will help you organise that fancy dinner party.
1.
dive and dine
THE MARKET
Westerstraat The market is a great place to get free stuff. Just make sure you’re there at the end of the day, since market vendors are willing to give a lot for free that otherwise would have been thrown out.
2.
FOOD SHARING.NL
A new online platform where people offer their leftovers, which are still perfectly fine to eat or drink, for free. If you’re lucky, you’ll even find shampoo, hair spray and other drugstore musthaves.
3.
DE LAATSTE KRUIMEL
Langebrugsteeg 4 They serve the best chunky baked goods, both sweet and savory. Since everything needs to be fresh, what’s left at the end of the day is thrown away.
4.
MARQT
Utrechtsestraat 17 For anyone who’s into natural, fair trade and organic food, Marqt is the place to go. This supermarket has locations all over the city, but this big store might be your lucky shot.
5.
dress worn as top iNDiViDUALS 300.00 skirt Marc O’Polo 129.90 necklace River Island 20.00 • tights Albert Cuyp market 5.00 background MATTIJS van Bergen and Zara
50
TIE magazine
Prints, colours, patterns all come together and result in an explosive combination – clash, baby, clash! photos Fred van t Slot styling Justine Wouterson Nina Giglio
kaleidoscope clash
51
dress worn as top Farm stylist’s own • jacket Zara 89.95 • pants Pepe Jeans 75.00 • necklace Zara 22.95 • shoes Invito 79.99
52
TIE magazine
kaleidoscope clash
53
54
TIE magazine
top River Island 37.00 • jacket Mango 39.99 • shorts River Island 40.00 • tights Albert Cuyp market 8.00 • necklace Zara 25.95 • bag iNDiViDUALS price on request
kaleidoscope clash
55
sweater MATTIJS van Bergen 567.00 • shirt British Indigo 119.95 • pants Caroline Biss 150.00 • necklace Zara 29.95 • shoes Invito 79.99 • background iNDiViDUALS
56
TIE magazine
kaleidoscope clash
57
blouse Zara 39.95 • coat H&M 99.00 • pants Zara 59.95 • necklace Zara 19.95
58
TIE magazine
kaleidoscope clash
59
shirt American Apparel 66.00 • jacket Saint Tropez 79.95 • shorts Saint Tropez 46.95 • necklace WE 14.95
60
TIE magazine
shirt Edith & Ella 179.00 • bikini bottoms Seafolly 52.00 • necklace Zara 25.95
kaleidoscope clash
61
WEAR YOUR STORY text Charlotte Olthoff illustration Sine Lund
Why would you make an ‘imperfect’ feature on your body stand out, instead of covering it up?
When asked what is beautiful, most people will name flawless skin, wide eyes, white teeth or shiny, thick hair. While, when asked what makes a person unique, very probable answers are ‘the freckles on her nose’, ‘the birthmark on his shoulder’ or ‘the scar on her collarbone’. Small, unique, imperfect features that most people try to cover up with layers of make-up or clothing. But why cover up a feature that makes you stand out from the crowd? Why, for example, hide a scar that has a story behind it? A story that makes you who you are?
TURTLENECKS & NECKLACES
When Francesca Kaplan-Grossman, the founder of the jewellery brand It’s My
62
Scar – claim your past and wear your story was diagnosed with thyroid cancer, her world fell apart. The doctors had to remove her thyroid and left a small,
“Making your scar a beautiful adornment seemed like the perfect way to be able to wear your story forever” but obvious scar across her neck. Before surgery, Francesca was certain that she would cover her scar up with turtlenecks and necklaces but, when the wound healed, she decided to celebrate her mark instead.
People would stare at her scar: it was, after all, in a particularly conspicuous location. They would look down, before meeting her eye, puzzled. Francesca would touch her scar lovingly, happy to have a physical reminder of the experience she had overcome. She was actually a bit sad when her scar started fading. Several months later it was still there, but less obvious as the skin healed, regenerating the pigment and smoothing the jagged edges.
MEMORIALIZE THE SCAR
As Francesca says: “I don’t want to forget. Because I live with the very real possibility that cancer is not a once in my lifetime possibility, but also because
Tie magazine
I am proud of myself for living, and surviving, with strength and dignity.” That’s how the idea of the scar necklace came up. When Francesca had two of her dearest friends over, who also happened to be a talented and creative artist duo, they decided it would be meaningful to memorialize the scar so that it would never fade from her every day memory. Making your scar a beautiful adornment seemed like the perfect way to be able to wear your story forever.
such as cancer easier to talk about when people ask her what the necklace means. When Francesca’s mother Janet was diagnosed with thyroid cancer and had the same surgery, her daughter made her the second scar necklace. Although it was the same surgery, Janet’s scar has a different shape. Once again the proof that every scar is different and has it’s own story.
A reminder of what she has overcome, hanging on her neck in the vague form of a swallow with one wing smaller than the other. Or maybe you’ll see a banana peel in it. Either way, it is a conversation starter. One that makes a serious subject
On itsmyscar.com you’ll find more stories behind scar necklaces, bracelets and rings. Michelle, for example, made a bracelet of the long scar left after a c-section on her lower abdomen, for her daughter. Alexandra, a daredevil
wear your story
ACCEPTANCE
who loves sports, wears a ring with the imprint of the scar on her knee. A scar that she received after five surgeries when a ski-jump tore the cartilage and ligaments in her knee: “My activities and sports make me who I am and everything that goes along with playing sports adds to my personality - being competitive, supportive, and strong. The consequences of my love of sports are my knee surgeries, but I have long ago accepted that my scars are a part of who I am.” Not every scar has a life-threatening or sad story behind it. Some are courageous. Some show true passion. But they all have the same thing in common: acceptance.
63
AMSTERDAM flagship store hobbemastraat
8 • 1071 za
men’s store prinsengracht
495 • 1016 hr
women’s store runstraat
17 • 1016 gj
LONDON TOKYO OSAKA
64
Tie magazine
HJORT, THE ELF text Sine Lund photos Sissela Johansson personal archive
Entrepreneur, photographer, plus-size model, design student and‌ an elf? This is the story of an ambitious and strong woman with a surprising hobby.
hjort, the elf
65
photo by Kasia Regula
Hjort is an elf girl and part of a fantasy world in a live action role-play game. Her real name is Sissela Ørnholt Johansson and she is a 25-year-old Danish student, model and photographer who lives in Copenhagen. Hjort is very domineering but at the same time kind. She would be the alpha of any group and is not afraid to speak her mind. She is one of the characters Sissela takes on when she has to take action in a situation and be a serious leader. The elf-character is a strong and confident woman, and is not afraid of showing that to the world. She is a big part of who Sissela is today. This is the story about how she went from being bullied in school to becoming a beautiful plus-size model and a photographer with her own business. “I was kind of a loner in primary school. The kids from my class bullied me a lot and called me names. Because I was overweight, didn’t wear the newest clothes and was very withdrawn they labelled me as ‘the weird girl’. Back then I was interested in medieval times, read books like The Hobbit and was into fantasy and the whole world around that, and I didn’t really feel that I fitted in anywhere. I guess you could say I
66
was quite a nerd. The bullying reached a point where I had to change schools, which I had to do four times until I finally found my place at a youth school. There I had a very good teacher that helped me getting back up from all the bullying. Here I was first introduced to the life action role-play-world (LARP).” “Without knowing much about LARP I decided to try it out. I went to the forest in a costume where I was welcomed with open arms by a group of twenty people, of which some even became my closest and dearest friends. They made me feel like I wasn’t different, I was accepted and none of them called me names
Tie magazine
QUICK GUIDE: LIVE ACTION ROLE-PLAY LARP: live action role-play game. LARP is a game where participants physically act out their characters’ actions and players pursue goals in a fictional setting by interacting with each others characters. Playing a LARP game is often called larping. A person that does LARP is called a larper. The first LARP games were run in the late 1970s, inspired by table role-playing games. LARP then spread internationally during the 1980s. Today LARP has a wide variety of genres and styles. Gamemasters: decide the setting and rules of the game. Everything else is improvised. Some LARP games are played without any rules, where players instead rely on using their common sense or feel for dramatic appropriateness to cooperatively decide what the outcome of their actions will be. A LARP game can range in size from small private events lasting only a few hours, to large public events with thousands of players lasting for several days.
Different types of LARP: The beneficial game: where the aim is to achieve educational or political goals. The fictional game: the fictional genres can be everything from realistic modern or historical settings to fantastic or futuristic eras. The most known form of role-play is the Fantasy genre. The therapeutic game: where a person is put in a simulated situation to learn how to handle it without the consequences of the real thing. Psychologists uses roleplay as a method on patients that for example suffer from social anxiety, so they can simulate a difficult situation to see how it can be handled. LARP can also have an improving effect on a society, since within a game players cast off the role of passive observer and take on new roles that are often outside of their daily life and contrary to their culture. This can make people see things from new perspectives and make them less judgemental towards different cultures and behaviours. Bonus: World LARP Day is celebrated every third Sunday on May all around the globe.
because of my looks or interests. I came from nothing with no social life to a world of acceptance and love. In the beginning I used role-play as an escape from reality where I wasn’t reminded of my past. LARP gave me the tools to move forward. I was only twelve years old when I started role-playing, what gave me the opportunity to travel through the the country to attend as many games as possible. My parents let me do this because they could see it affected me in such a positive way, having a social life with friends that had the same interests as me – I opened up.”
ROLE-PLAY AS THERAPY
“Have you ever looked at children playing and saying things like: “Now we play that I am the queen and you are the king”, and then thought to yourself: “I wish life was still that simple”? That you could be whoever you wanted to be for a brief moment? Well, that’s what we do, that ‘s what role-play basically is. We outlive that dream of being a kid again, where there are no rules or limits to who you can be and what you can do. Because of my past I had to grow up at a very early age and that is why it was – and still is – very important for me to be able to set free my ‘inner child’ and go play for a whole weekend, or just for a day. Play where the real world no longer exists and only the imagination sets the limits.” “If you are a good role-player, you’ll give a 100% for your role, which can be both scary and wonderful, depending on the setting. It can have a major psychological effect – it helped me to conquer difficult situations in my everyday life, because the role-play puts you in a lot of different positions that you are not always prepared for. I always called role-play ‘therapy’, because I use it in my life as my ‘psychological relief ’, where I can escape from reality and sometimes even get to beat someone up with a foam sword or
hjort, the elf
scream and yell at someone to get all my frustrations out. You get to feel things you never felt before and you learn a lot about yourself and your personal limits. When you for example are running around in a pitch black forest being followed by an enemy that wants to kill you, and a whispering voice in your ear tells you to run faster, you feel something close to real fear. It is a very intense feeling, but I feel that it has helped me discover new sides of myself, like how I react in stressful and difficult situations. A lot of the things I’ve learned in roleplay I have brought into my professional life - that’s what has made me a lot stronger than I used to be.”
STEREOTYPES
Many people think that we are a bunch of geeks running around in the forest playing Lord of the Rings, but that’s very rarely the case. Yes, I do LARP in a dark forest and cast spells, but there is a lot more to it than just that.
67
ALL ABOUT SISSELA NAME: Sissela Ørnholt Johansson AGE: 25 years old LIVES IN: Copenhagen, Denmark MAIN OCCUPATION: Student – Textile Design, Handicrafts and Communication OTHER OCCUPATION: Entrepreneur, photographer, model and designer HOBBY: Live role-playing (LARP)
And on top that it’s very rare that the setting of the LARP is in Lord of The Rings-style or other ‘popular’ settings like that.” “The creativity and resourcefulness you get from doing LARP gives you so much. It helped me evolve to the person who I am today. In everything I do, whether it is photography, sewing or styling my models for a shoot, it always has a
68
touch of fantasy to it, a little twist to make it interesting. The lightness and the sense of freedom are things I’ve taken from the fantasy role-play world and put into my creative work. I like contrasts and I like to make people look twice – force them to think about what they see.” “The fact that I do LARP is not something that I go around and tell everyone I meet. First of all – because right now I’ve got my main focus on my photography business and my school, which takes up most my time – I have very little time left for ‘play’. Second of all, I like being private. It gets quite annoying having to explain what, why and how every time people hear I do LARP, just because it is, in our society, not seen as ‘normal’. I don’t want it to be the defining factor of how other people see me. I am not the stereotypical LARP geek, LARP players rarely are. When people ask I have no problem with telling that I do LARP and how big of an impact it had on my life, because it is such a big part of me and I am not ashamed of it.” “I feel most at home when I am in the fantasy world as a character with some kind of strategic, leading and intriguing role, where politics is the focus. It’s a great feeling to be able to plot strategic missions and then not only have them in your head but carry them out into real life.”
FROM INTROVERT TO MODEL
“I am by nature very introvert - I actually have Asperger Syndrome, which means that in theory I shouldn’t be able to do all the things I do today. But when I changed schools and because of the teacher that helped me I could better focus and analyse my actions. He basically gave me some extremely helpful tools to work with my syndrome instead of going against it. That is why today, together with everything I’ve learned from role-play, I am able to run my own business, be a model and study textile design, even though it’s hard and I don’t have much free time. Right now I am living my
Tie magazine
photos by Thomas Buthler
dream. I try to live my life the way I want, instead of how it’s the most sensible. It has given me a lot of ups and downs, but it has also made me a stronger and more wellbalanced person. I feel like right now I’m in the right time and place and that could also be why I don’t feel the need to do as much LARP anymore. I don’t feel I have to escape from reality right now. A couple of years ago I had a very low self esteem after all the things being said to me as a child. But after I became a plus-size model, I started to feel better about myself and decided to change my lifestyle and live a healthier and more balanced life, inside and out, which I feel I do now.” “My modelling career started because a photographer took a picture of me at a roleplay game in a costume and even though I was very insecure about myself, I let him take the picture. That was the beginning of what gave me the confidence to become a model. I realized when I saw the picture that although I didn’t have the ‘ideal’ weight for what you normally see in modelling, to see this was something I could do. It helped me towards the acceptance of how I looked and that size wasn’t a defining factor for being a beautiful girl. Today when I pass a mirror I tell myself out loud that I look beautiful, just to remember myself that there is nothing wrong with how I look and that I should love everything about me. Curves and all.” “I am still in the category ‘plus-size’ model, but I am on my way into the category ‘inbetweenie’ - still plus-size, but slimmer then ‘commercial plus-size’. Because I am both a model and a photographer, I fight for showing the ‘normal’ body instead of the size 0-body - girls starving themselves just to be part of the fashion industry. When a man looks at one of my pictures and says; “Damn she is hot!”, it’s not about if she is a size 34 or a size 48. I want to inspire women to be as they are and feel beautiful no matter what they weigh or how many scars they have.”
hjort, the elf
MY FUTURE
“Like I said, I’m letting go of doing LARP these days. Now I escape from reality by doing Viking re-enactment. Some people would call it LARP, but it really isn’t. Here we try from what we know from historical sources, to re-enact the Viking times. It is about communicating history to people and try to teach them about that era. For example we hand sew our clothing, we live outside in tents, we cook food over bonfires: everything is done with the materials we know they had at that time. You get kind of picky when you get older and then you don’t attend every LARP there is anymore. These days I only attend role-play games that I find really interesting and challenging. I dream of living of my photography full time because that is what makes me truly happy. That is also where I can combine all the things I have learned through my life. Whether it being LARP, modelling, textile design. Hjort will always be with me. She has a special place in my heart.”
69
t ext Nina Gig l io p hotos J a nice va n Alebeek Jus ti ne Wouters on Yolanda de Hoz il l ustra tions T hi ago Ri bei ro
What if bikes could talk? We’ve interviewed four bikes in Amsterdam on their views on life, style, and an everyday of cycles.
70
Tie magazine
OLIVIA, 2 YEARS OLD Loves to make new friends when parked in front of the market, but is still waiting to meet her soulmate. Like Olivia, there are an estimated 881.000 bikes in Amsterdam, being used by 780.000 residents. That is about 1.3 bicycles per inhabitant, used on a daily basis by 58% of the Amsterdammers.
“I love driving with a picnic basket on me; it means the day will be sunny and in open air”
What was the last thing that really made you laugh? I saw this dog riding a scooter right next to me; the owner was driving and the dog was just sitting at the place where you put your feet, enjoying the ride. At what time in your life have you felt the most peaceful? Sunday my owner drove me to the public library close to Central Station and went in for a few hours. When we rode back home, the sun was setting, the city was bustling with people enjoying the early spring weather and she didn’t go straight home. She kept cycling smoothly around the canals, which was pretty cool. How would you define your style? Simple, but charming. I’m not the one to be wearing flowers and colourful baskets, but I know how to be girly. Favourite summer piece? I love driving with a picnic basket on me; it means the day will be sunny and in open air. Describe your dream owner. I’m pretty good with the one I have now. She takes good care of me and always makes sure I’m properly locked to something solid before leaving.
bike talk
71
JAAP, 1 YEAR OLD Hates when it’s windy; it makes him feel like he’s going to fly away one of these days. When his owner feels like flying in wheels, there is a total of 400 km in bike paths for Jaap to cycle around in Amsterdam. Like him, there is a growing number of ‘fixies’ cruising around urban centres, fuelled by the recent hipster trend.
“So it was myself, my owner, and a bunch of cows – and cow shit, loads of cow shit”
What are you up to today? Waiting for my owner to pick up the things he ordered for our next bike expedition – we’re going to Asia to take part in this international cycling competition, I’m really excited. How far have you gone for the perfect ride? We had this competition in Australia once, it was pretty awesome. Which of your rides stands out as the most epic? Last year he tried to join the Tour of France midway in this countryside road in the middle of nothing. He didn’t make it in time for the subscriptions and was really eager to participate anyways. So it was myself, my owner, and a bunch of cows – and cow shit, loads of cow shit. Where are your favourite places to cycle in the city? I especially like the roads taking to smaller cities such as Ouderkerk and Weesp. I can really let go of any speed worries when cruising there. Essential item? Not a gear, for sure.
72
Tie magazine
MATHILDA, 28 YEARS OLD Had her back tire replaced five times and doesn’t really care what people say about it. Her only fear is to get stolen, since about 100.000 bicycles are taken away from their owners early in Amsterdam alone. That’s why is crucial to lock bikes securely to racks that span half the length of a football field in the city.
Best thing about living in Amsterdam? “You really get respected as a bike around here”
What’s the most exciting thing that’s ever happened to you on a street corner? My owner and I were driving one day and she had to stop because there was a bunch of kids practicing for their school parade or something. Super cute. Your biggest crash? Definitely the time a car hit me while I was parked close to a street market. Clearly the driver didn’t know what she was doing, and he just left without leaving a single note. Such an a-hole. Best thing about living in Amsterdam? You really get respected as a bike around here. I’ve heard things can get pretty ugly in other countries where cyclists have no rights. Who’s had the greatest influence on your sense of style and your attitude? My owner, for sure. After the whole accident with the car she took me to the bike shop, got me fixed, and revamped my look completely, spray paint and all. An eternal piece? Wooden front basket! Never goes out of fashion.
bike talk
73
ARTHUR, 6 YEARS OLD Loves kids more than anything in this world and never wants to stop being a bikesitter. The kids that Arthur sits are born with biking in their veins: even before they can walk they’re already carried around in special seats in cargo bikes – called ‘bakfiets’ by the Dutch. These special bikes are often equipped with canopies to protect the children from the rain.
“I really get attached to my cyclers, but they grow up and get bigger bikes, with pedals and breaks. So it’s a constant cycle of changing ownership”
What’s the best thing about Amsterdam’s bike scene? You find pretty much everything around here. From the pimped up rides to the granny bikes, Amsterdammers drive it all. Favourite place to hang out? There’s a kid’s playground at the end of the street I live that is pretty cool. What are the hardest parts of being a bike? Having to go from one owner to another. I really get attached to my cyclers, but they grow up and get bigger bikes, with pedals and breaks. So it’s a constant cycle of changing ownership. What’s your earliest memory of making someone laugh? The first kid who owned me really wanted to have a bike, and so I came. Never again have I seen a child that happy with a bike. What’s the best moment of your day? When her grandma takes us out for a walk and to play a little. Especially now that my owner’s balance is getting steadier, it is really pleasant to cycle with her.
74
Tie magazine
Tie found some typical Amsterdam bikes riding around the streets. Curious about what kind of bicycle would be your soulmate?
Always worried about your looks, cycling in heels is not a problem for you. The only thing that throws you off is rain, since it ruins both your makeup and your hairdo. You make sure your bike is painted in this season’s colour and is provided with the coolest accessories in town to stylishly cruise around the city while window-shopping.
You never stress about anything and enjoy the best energy the universe has to offer. Your favourite place to ride is in the middle of nature, since you love to enjoy the flow of good vibes and energy that runs in the woods. Taking things easy and as they go, biking is one of the many ways you seek to be in sync with the universe.
You always have the urge to be the first, fastest, and the best. For you, the perfect ride is the one where you’re leading a pack of cyclists, while getting stuck in traffic is the worse possible scenario. That’s why you don’t hesitate to ring your bell, curse and yell to get people out of your way. You like to be challenged but will make sure that you’re never behind. After all, that’s for losers.
When in Rome, do like the Romans, huh? Renting a bike and cruising around town is the ultimate vacation happening for you when in Amsterdam, even though you suffer a bit – or a lot – while cycling. A rental bike is the best way to go from Rijksmuseum to the Dam Square, carrying your souvenirs, ‘stroopwaffles’ and cheeses, since that’s what locals do. Right? That’s what locals do?
bike talk
75
Guilia Elena Bessone
CON TRIBU TORS
SHOP OWNER THE NEW LABEL PROJECT • What I always do and just can not help is that I don’t just talk. I always move my whole body, my hands, eyes... • I really take joy in reading one of those captivating books and listening to some happy music. They can simply make my day. • It’s really a gift being able to travel ever single day. Thanks to everyone visiting TNLP-store, I get the chance to meet people from all over the world who tell me stories about their lives and countries. Sharing part of this adventure is beautiful.
text and photos Justine Wouterson
To get to know our contributors better, we asked them three Tie-questions. What’s their weirdest habit, what’s the super ordinary thing they gain pleasure from and what thing considered extraordinary by others is actually part of their life.
Charlotte Olthoff FREELANCE WRITER • My weirdest habit is that I just have to empty an ashtray on a bunch of cookies in the trash can. That’s the only thing that prevents me from fishing them out of the bin and eating them. • What’s super ordinary that I love doing is cooking. I love to cook and experiment. Since I launched my own food blog lotkookt. com in august 2013 I have not made the same dish twice. • As a Dutch city girl, moving to Cape Town last year was a big thing. Now I climb Lion’s Head (a mountain) sometimes before I go to work. If I’m lucky I see dolphins and whales swimming in the ocean.
76
Tie magazine
Christiaan van Hattem FREELANCE WRITER • My weirdest habit is a hard one, since my friends constantly tell me I have my own way of doing things. But well, when I’m at airports, which are places I like to be, I have this game: I keep imagining why and where people are travelling. • Others might seek shelter, but I love the smell of rain and to feel the warm and strong wind on my face, just minutes before a thunderstorm. • Big families aren’t that usual anymore these days, but at home we are five kids. When I specify that we’re all boys, a “woow” reaction is really common. My house was always the craziest place on earth, believe me!
Thiago Rocha Ribeiro ILLUSTRATOR • How this started is just one big mystery, but when I’m alone, nervous or really concentrated, I start beatboxing. • My biggest love is food. I love to eat. It gives me lots of pleasure! • Painting and drawing is what I do. I can work on productions for hours in a row and be super focused.
FRED VAN ‘T SLOT PHOTOGRAPHER • For me it’s plain simple. My weirdest habit? It’s listening to Motörhead. • The super ordinary thing I gain pleasure from? For sure listening to Motörhead. • A thing that for most people is extraordinary but is in fact a part of my life is, well... I guess listening to Motörhead.
RUBY CRUDEN MODEL • When I’ve got a very important day ahead, I carry a tiny blue stone with me that I hide somewhere in my clothing. My mom gave it to me three years ago. Maybe it’s a bit superficial, but nothing ventured is nothing gained. • I love driving at night. It always reminds me of driving home after a road trip holiday back in the days. I would stare out the window while my little brother sang along with the radio. It still gives me a pleasant and nostalgic feeling. • I try to do what makes me happy as often as possible – I believe that everyone should. Those events give me energy so I try to make them part of my everyday life. If you love music, spend your summer visiting festivals. If you haven’t seen your good friend for a long time, get together. Even though it sounds obvious, don’t make those things so rare in life.
77
where can you buy
all the things?
Amsterdam Bag amsterdambagcompany.com The Netherlands
American Apparel americanapparel.net USA
Bershka bershka.com Spain
Bas Bouman thenewlabelproject.com The Netherlands
Black Socks
FieldCandy
blacksocks.com USA
fieldcandy.com UK
Bogobrush
Fossil
bogobrush.com USA
fossil.nl The Netherlands
Boohoo
Gsus Industries
boohoo.com UK
g-sus.nl The Netherlands
British Indigo at Bendorff
Handbag Butler
british-indigo.com The Netherlands
handbag-butler.com Australia
iNDiViDUALS at byAMFI
Havaianas
amfi.nl/byamfi The Netherlands
havaianas.com Brazil
Cakes & Troubles
H&M
thenewlabelproject.com The Netherlands
hm.com Sweden
Caroline Biss
Invito
Kunert at V&D
carolinebiss.com/nl The Netherlands
www.invito.com The Netherlands
kunert.de Germany
COS
Juliverse
Mango
cosstores.com Sweden
juliverse.nl The Netherlands
mango.com Spain
Edith & Ella
Jutka en Riska
Marc O’Polo
edith-ella.com Denmark
jutkaenriska.nl The Netherlands
marc-o-polo.nl The Netherlands
78
Tie magazine
Saucony saucony.nl The Netherlands
Schakel Sieraden thenewlabelproject.com The Netherlands
Seafolly seafolly.com Australia
Sigmo buysigmo.com USA
Spijkers en Spijkers spijkersenspijkers.nl The Netherlands
Sprout plantyourpencil.com Denmark
Sunpocket sunpocketoriginal.com France
Tenue de Nimes tenuedenimes.com The Netherlands
Mattijs van Bergen
Tweeting Bra
mattijsvanbergen.com The Netherlands
tweetingbra.gr Greece
Monki
Urban Outfittes
monki.com Sweden
urbanoutfitters.com USA
Monkey Business
Plant Theatre
Vibe Johansson
monkeybusiness.co.il Israel
plant-theatre.com UK
vibejohansson.com Denmark
Naked and Famous Denim
Pepe Jeans
Yaya
nakedandfamousdenim.com Canada
pepejeans.com UK
yaya.nl The Netherlands
Nelly.com
Rite in the Rain
Zara
nelly.com Sweden
riteintherain.com USA
zara.com Spain
Paperback
River Island
Taschen
ilovehandles.com USA
riverisland.com UK
taschen.com USA
79
QUILT AWAY
This issue Tie celebrates the unique craft and the crafters involved in quilting. Quilt is here to stay, since quilters never cut corners
Quilters come with strings attached
The International Quilting Association, also know as IQA, is a nonprofit organization dedicated to the preservation of the art of quilting founded in 1979
Every fall the International Quilt Festival is held in Houston, USA
Quilting is estimated to have its roots in China. Around 3000 B.C. warriors in China wore quilted chest protectors during battles
African American slaves may have used quilt as a secret code-system, to navigate with in the underground railroad. The quilts contained secret messages, which were supposed to direct the slaves into freedom. A way of giving direction without using words
Amish quilts are so famous that they reach high prices at antique auctions. The Amish people started quilting in 1870’s. Their work is based on the principles of simplicity, practicality and humility, only using single colours. To them, colours are too worldly
You don’t have to be crazy to crazy quilt. Crazy quilting became popular after a quilt made of satin, silk and velvet was displayed at the Centennial Exhibition in Philadelphia in 1876. The word ‘crazy’ comes from all the crazed patterns seen in cracked pottery glaze
During the Crusades, quilting was used as a protective armour. After noticing leather quilted garments worn by the Islamic and their horses, warriors from England and Scotland started to wear them as well. Worried wives made extra layers of quilted cloth to protect their husbands in battles
In 1987, a group of activists from the NAMES Project Foundation began quilting for AIDS. Together with others who had lost loved ones to the disease, they pieced together a memorial quilt. In 1996, another quilt was put together covering the entire National Mall in Washington, D.C. It weighed 50 tons
80
Did you know that 30 million quiltlovers worldwide help keeping the old traditional technique alive?
Tie magazine