LEGACY SAN MARZANO - THE FINEST CHEFS CRUSHING IT!
FLAVEL MONTEIRO AWARD WINNING AUTHOR WITH
DOUG SINGER
GIUSEPPE CUTRARO BIG MAMMA GROUP PARIS
DANIEL NEGREIRA HIDDEN BY DN TAIPEI
DANIEL CHAVEZ OLA COCINA DEL MAR SINGAPORE
JAMES OAKLEY ALIBI, CORDIS HOTEL HONG KONG
MIRKO FASSARI THE FRANKLIN BY ALFREDO RUSSO, LONDON
MARINA ZBINDEN AVANTCHA DUBAI
SARADHI DAKARA THE MAINE DUBAI
LIM YEW AUN BAR CICHETI SINGAPORE
FEDERICO TERESI LEONARDO DUBAI
JORGE RIVERO MÖVENPICK HOTEL JUMEIRAH LAKES TOWERS DUBAI
TAMARA CHAVEZ TONO CEVICHERIA SINGAPORE
NIYATI RAO MUMBAI
CARLO QUATTROCCHI LEONARDO DUBAI
TERESA CUTTER THE HEALTHY CHEF SYDNEY
TANO SIMONATO TANO PASSAMI L’OLIO MILAN
CARLA PELLEGRINO ARAMARK THE MAJESTIC YOSEMITE HOTEL YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK - CALIFORNIA
VINEET BHATIA KAMA BY VINEET HARRODS, LONDON
SILVIA BARACCHI IL FALCONIERE CORTONA
MANEET CHAUHAN CHAUHAN ALE & MASALA HOUSE, NASHVILLE
JEAN WINTER JEAN’S PRIVATE KITCHEN DUBAI
LUCA ROSATI SAN GIMIGNANO TUSCANY
JOHN BUENAVENTURA ZABEEL HOUSE AL SEEF DUBAI
JAMES KNIGHT PACHECO SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY MUSANDAM, DIBBA
REIF OTHMAN KUSHIYAKI DUBAI
COLIN CLAGUE RÜYA DUBAI – LONDON
ANTONIO SUPPA SILVIO’S SAUCES CONNECTICUT
LEGACY SAN MARZANO - THE FINEST CHEFS CRUSHING IT! by AWARD WINNING AUTHOR FLAVEL MONTEIRO & DOUG SINGER
A culinary exploration featuring four San Marzano tomato sauces. These extraordinary chefs are crushing it! Live the Legacy. ~ FLAVEL MONTEIRO & DOUG SIGNER
acknowledgement
As I was scrolling through the pages of this book as we were preparing to publish it, I found it awe-inspiring how many people came together to make this possible. When I was first asked to co-author this ambitious project, I was a bit overwhelmed. Twenty-five of the finest chefs from all walks of life were coming together to celebrate one common theme—the San Marzano tomato. My thought was that this was going to be a legacy within itself. A somewhat intimidating project—but forward we marched. The impact of the San Marzano tomato on the culinary world is one that goes back centuries. We have managed to bring that legacy to life with the assistance of these incredibly talented individuals, who have very generously shared their vision, and creatively riffed on this timeless ingredient. Be it a quick recipe idea for a casual dinner with a friend, or dipping your toe into the world of molecular gastronomy, our chefs have delivered the best of the best. I cannot thank them enough. While researching this book, we discovered the Suppa family and the extraordinary history that they represent. Their roots in this area go back to the Roman Empire. Their culinary heritage alone can be traced back to the 1500s and can be found right in the public library in Benevento. It assisted us in articulating the history of the San Marzano tomato from ground zero—the heart of Campania. Using their centuries-old family sauce recipes as a cornerstone for this book, further highlighted this iconic, time-honored jewel of the culinary world. Tony Suppa was extraordinarily helpful during our meetings at Woodwinds, as he and Joyce Logan made this process as easy as possible. Watching the care he took in the production of the pasta sauce is something that I will never forget. I would also like to thank my wife, Charmaine, for putting up with me hiding out in my office for 16 hours a day as we took a deep dive into this ambitious undertaking. She always kept a smile on her face even during crunch time! Finally, I would like to thank Flavel Monteiro. Writing this book with him in Dubai and me on the Connecticut Shore has been a partnership in the most real sense of the word. The distance between us never created a challenge. From day one, this was a passion project and one that I will savor forever. Thank you for joining us on this journey and continue to live the legacy!
Doug Singer 6
“Legacy is a feast for the palate—a special culinary experience that showcases the perfect blend of culture in its marriage with the San Marzano tomato.”
Imagine a book simultaneously written by two people—one in Dubai, U.A.E and the other in Connecticut, U.S.A. One might say that these two are either crazy or at best, committing to an extremely long process. This was certainly not the case. It was perfect working between Doug Singer and myself—albeit at really odd hours due to the eight-hour time difference. We are both still sane, although incredibly fried after the ten-week marathon of putting Legacy together. It has been a legacy in itself! Thank you, Doug. I want to thank Tony Suppa, his extended family, and also acknowledge his brilliant sauce line which was at the cornerstone of this book. Beyond these first pages, the most exceptional culinary professionals from around the world made this feasible—Alfredo Russo, Konstantin Filippou and Grant MacPherson with the forewords, and Courtney Brand with her introduction. The finest chefs crushing it - Vineet Bhatia, Silvia Baracchi, Tano Simonato Maneet Chauhan, Carla Pellegrino, Teresa Cutter, Colin Clague, Luca Rosati, James Knight-Pacheco, Reif Othman, Daniel Negreira, James Oakley, Daniel Chavez, John Buenaventura, Mirko Fassari, Lim Yew Aun, Federico Teresi, Jean Winter, Tamara Chavez, Niyati Rao, Jorge Rivero, Saradhi Dakara, Giuseppe Cutraro, Carlo Quattrocchi, and four cocktails from Marina Zbinden, the only tea sommelier along with mixologist Souvik Dasgoupta. Testimonials from Samantha Wood, Sam Aisbett, Zoe Bowker and José Luis Vicente Gómez complete LEGACY, thank you! I want to thank the editorial and creative team, as well as the vast array of photographers who made it possible for us to visualize these recipes. I’d also like to thank Maria Aquino, IZZY, Manuela Filippou, Rashima Bhatia, Rosie Van Der Meer, Lina Bartelli and Kurt Berger. A special thank you to Luca Rosati for the cover design—you nailed it! Grazie Luca!
Flavel Monteiro 7
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My marinated bonito soaking in a great juice of San Marzano with a crispy sepia ink makes one go crazy. This versatile, juicy, and succulent deep red plum tomato basks in the volcanic soil of the Sarno River Valley. The combination of its intense sweet rich flavors and a subtle acidity stimulate the tongue, creates the perfect balance, and makes it crucial for a lot of my dishes; it is the lifeblood to my sauces. Konstantin Filippou Vienna, Austria
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A memory by Alfredo Russo
For me, as for many Italian families, the one true salsa (sauce), can only and purely be, tomato sauce. Making homemade sauce is a familiar ritual in Italian households, which involves the participation of the entire family. From the children to the grandparents, aunts, and uncles, it is almost like Christmas, but in the summer.
the salsa & the tomato
Towards the middle of August, the search for tomatoes begins. We rigorously seek the best, but not yet fully-ripened tomatoes. Each family is buying hundreds of these red jewels. Large wooden crates of tomatoes are laid out on sheets of newspaper in even the most unthinkable of outdoor spaces for this most important of projects. Gardens, courtyards, and balconies are all utilized and waiting for the moment when the work will commence.
The old continent only discovered the tomato after the discovery of America in 1492. Its development and subsequent use have radically changed previously known eating habits. It is an annual plant which dislikes frost; therefore, it naturally thrives in the Italian summer climate. Its ripe fruits constitute a unique and indispensable ingredient in many cuisines around the world.
Usually a “sauce day” would start at daybreak and to handle the unusual volume, one would set up a large gas burner connected to propane cylinders. The work of the youngest is to remove the stalks of the tomatoes. Then, one by one, they would separate the good from the bad. The ones that “made the cut” would immediately be washed carefully to then end up in a massive cauldron of boiling water. Once scalded, the tomatoes are transferred into what is called “la macchinetta,” a powerful crusher and strainer which can handle large quantities of tomato pulp, now seeded due to cooking. From here, the juice of the piping hot sauce starts to flow towards the smaller pot under it.
Initially, the tomato was considered a poisonous plant. It was used along with the potato as a decorative plant, adorning the windows and courtyards of the rich. The cultivation of ornamental tomato plants passed from Spain, perhaps through Morocco, crossed the entire Mediterranean basin, and ultimately found the right climate in Italy. To the delight of gourmets, the aroma of Sundays and holy day feasts, are punctuated by the red sauce that covers the white of the pasta. From the gastronomic point of view, San Marzanos have been highly lauded since the beginning of the 1900s, when the first industries of conservation arose.
Seemingly an endless job, just as you think that you are finally finishing, a new series of boxes of tomatoes would magically materialize. These, like all of the others, would need to be cleaned, washed, passed through the strainer, bottled, closed, and sterilized. Empty beer bottles were never just thrown away. They had to be washed carefully and rinsed, to then be filled with hot sauce and soaked in the saucepan to create the vacuum seal.
From simple salads to fancy dishes, to the preparation of sauces and cooked meals, San Marzano tomatoes are the protagonist of Mediterranean cuisine. Alfredo Russo Turin, Italy
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The stature of San Marzano tomatoes among its class is nothing short of regal. From the succulent flavors to its connection to royalty, they are the upper echelon of tomato produce Mother Nature has to offer. San Marzano tomatoes are generous in pulp with fewer seeds, yielding a sweeter and less acidic character as compared to other varieties of tomatoes. Quite evidently, this is why it had been one of the favorites of royalty. So much so that it was gifted to the Kingdom of Naples by the Peruvian Viceroyalty. Throughout my culinary career, which now spans over four decades, I have resided in various regions around the world. These experiences significantly increased my appetite for the use of the finest and freshest produce the land had to offer. Flavor comes from finesse, and the cooking technique or style adds gusto to the produce. This core combo is what ultimately appeals to the discerning palate. It came as no surprise when Flavel appropriately chose San Marzano tomatoes in creating Legacy. He not only has a knack for the finest ingredients, but an ability to seamlessly pair what he picks with the chefs who can not only elevate, but take the creation to the next level. Starting with San Marzano tomato sauces as an element in the recipes that were created by these ‘World Class Chefs,’ assures nothing less than an epicurean feast for the connoisseur. Grant MacPherson Las Vegas, Nevada
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Growing up in the southern United States, the first experience I had with marinara sauce was the kind from a jar. Quelle horreur, I realize, but at the time, it tasted as I expected it to. As a seven-year-old might. As I sat down to collect my thoughts of tomatoes and sauces, in consideration of our childhood, when exactly does our palate begin? At what age should our culinary history commence? And when do we realize certain countries are known for particular products?
“The difference between a bland tomato and great one is immense, much like the difference between a standard, sliced white bread, and crusty, aromatic sourdough.”
Yotam Ottolenghi
So, I started with Ragu. From a jar. Purchased with double coupons. Heated on the stove top and poured over boiled boxed pasta. And yet, I don’t remember being served anything less than the best. After all, my mother—like so many other loving home chefs before her— provided a home cooked meal on a routine basis. She made dishes with love and comfort, served on familiar white ceramic plates. Topped with Parmesan from a familiar green plastic tub, these dinners were the location which had nothing to do with my culinary self and everything to do with my maturing self. To me, politics, culture, and family history taste like spag bol on a Tuesday night. As I grew older, my taste buds grew—evolving, expanding, growing. I learned that there was more than one red sauce available in the world, and fresh produce invariably makes food taste better. And now, in the contemporary culinary scene, much can be done with taking traditional dishes and subverting them, reinventing combinations and mixtures. However, in reviewing what lasts throughout history, those classic combinations of herbs and tomatoes provide and continue to offer the foundations for countless memorable dishes. Whether served at home or the best restaurants in the world, there is a recognition of traditional qualities.
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Perhaps pasta and sauce was a cheap staple for you, perhaps not. Perhaps you had access to fantastic produce like the tomatoes explored in this book, or maybe you purchased produce in a chain supermarket. Perhaps you’ve traveled to southern Italy, to the region of Campania to try tomatoes at harvest. To a place with a long tradition of tomato cultivation and evolution of a wide diversity of traditional varieties. To tap into landraces which have been cultivated for centuries and are still prevalent in local markets. Or maybe you’re still planning to visit.
“Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad.“
Brian O’Driscoll
Can you actually taste history? I offer the answer that it is possible. In southern Italy, where tomatoes have been adapted to peculiar climatic conditions in geographical isolation with specific agro-techniques, local gardeners’ choices have been passed down through the centuries, then yes, perhaps it is possible to sample the past. The Campania region has been, and still is, an essential area for tomato production. With a long tradition in the selection, cultivation, and processing of the crop, the result is an abundant reservoir of valuable tomato landraces. And so, as you turn through these pages to enjoy fresh takes on the rich array of classics—Marinara, Fra Diavolo, Capriccioso, and perhaps the most sacred of all, the Sunday Sauce—I encourage you to believe we might all have some part of us who approached sauces like an Italian Nonna. A little voice who encourages doing the most with the fresh ingredients available. Perhaps your favorite of the four is the light, full-flavored sauce of the Marinara, or maybe you crave the briny, saltiness of the Capriccioso. Maybe it’s the slight heat of the Fra Diavolo, or the patience required to create the Sunday Sauce. Whichever your choice, let this book be a guideline to enjoy sauces full of depth of flavor for years to come. Finally, a reminder. For any chef—trained, starred, or novice, there is room for play; there is time to grow, to simmer, to learn patience over the stove. What pasta is served, or Chianti is uncorked, matters little in these instances—at the end of the meal, it’s always about those seated around the table. ~ Courtney Brandt
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In the Southeast region of Italy, the hilltop city of Benevento majestically hovers above the convergence of the Sabato and Calore Irpino rivers. Situated approximately 50 kilometers northeast of Naples in the region of Campania with a stunning, panoramic view of the valley below, Benevento emerges as the culinary ground zero for the celebrated Suppa family.
SUPPA FAMILY It was the convergence of six main roads which brought many to this region. Enhanced by the aweinspiring architecture dotted with an extraordinary array of medieval fortresses, Benevento in many ways is a snapshot of Italian history—indeed the birthplace of a rich family legacy. The lineage of the sauces created by this iconic family and featured in this book can be traced back over 400 years. It was in Benevento that the Suppa family developed Silvio’s line of sauces— named after the late Silvio Suppa. This little known company, regarded by critics and diners from all corners of the globe as the “world’s best pasta sauce,” delivers a collection that everyone can enjoy. More than a taste experience—this is a deep cultural dive.
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‘Zi Giuannina (left)
“The roots of our family’s culinary history can be traced back to the year 1571. As a child, one thing was consistent—stories of the old country and dialogue of how important it is to keep our traditions alive. It was the same for my parents and their parents alike, and we have been continually doing this through our family’s passion for great food. One thing that has always remained consistent is that Sunday dinners at the family compound in Benevento could be counted on as the time when everybody would come together. All of the cousins, aunts, uncles, grandparents, and children would gather for what was sure to be a memorable meal. The family farm provided all of the components for this weekly feast. From the vegetables to the livestock, to the Sangiovese, to the olive oil—this was simply a way of life—farm to table was just a reality. As a child, I remember my grandmother, Maria and all of her sisters (Angela, Giuannina, Irma, Giuseppina, and Carmelina) would be cooking, talking, and laughing all day long—as only family can do. The aroma of stewing tomatoes, garlic, and rendered pancetta would swirl through the air and permeate your soul—intoxicating in the best of ways. Today, we meticulously prepare our sauces in precisely the same way as when I was a child, and just as my ancestors did in the sixteenth century. All of our sauces have always been 100% natural, vegan, and gluten-free. Each recipe in this book uses one of them as a component of its creation, continuing the legacy. Now that is history preserved!” ~ Antonio Suppa
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uca Rosati was born in Siena, Italy. Residing in the medieval town of San Gimignano in the heart of beautiful Tuscany, he is the father of two beautiful girls, a professional photographer and yes, a chef. After finishing high school, Luca did his selective service in the army as a sharpshooter. This is an experience that he recalls rather fondly, as it was at this time that thanks to his army mates, he was coerced into the kitchen for the very first time. Luca is an extremely creative, dynamic, and curious individual who loves traveling and exploring new cultures—especially the traditions in their cuisine. Passionate about music and a drummer since the age of 16, he is a true renaissance man. He discovered his passion for photography throughout his travels, especially during his time in Japan. His interest in food photography was sparked by his appreciation for the beauty and perfection of the cuisine that he came across, as well as the artisans who created it. It was 15 years ago that Luca decided that it was time to follow his dream and he entered a professional kitchen in Florence for the very first time. Driven by curiosity, passion, and the sheer determination to succeed, it was here that he met Francesco—his first real mentor. After this initial experience, Luca was fortunate to move on to a Michelin star restaurant in Certaldo Alto. This is where he met Sara (the chef and owner) who pushed him beyond his perceived limits encouraging his creativity and passion in haute dining. It was here that he developed his vision of modern cuisine, his interest in rare ingredients and the composition and art of plating. His experience in a 20-seat tavern in the Chianti area was his first as the only chef in a kitchen. Featuring a small menu, attention to detail, locally sourced ingredients, and everything made from scratch was the key to his success. It was during his three years here that his skills and style evolved—developing his unique combination of tradition and innovation. Luca Rosati’s passion for cooking and photography are immutably connected. “I believe that every chef loves to immortalize his works with photography. The love of beauty and perfection in the kitchen brought me from the pots and pans, to the lens of the camera. I found my way over the years by studying, working, and repeatedly experimenting. I learned from my mistakes, and every day, I became better at what I was doing. Progress and positive results have constantly motivated me to continue working. I started my career as a chef using complex ingredients and several combinations of flavors. Today, looking back 10 to 15 years, as a chef, I’m very different. I now use no more than three to four ingredients for a perfect combination of taste, flavor, and presentation. Similarly, as a photographer, I seek a minimal and clean look for a pristine and refined composition.” The constant desire to evolve and to continually grow is at the core of Luca Rosati’s drive. Curiosity and creativity are consistently present in all of his endeavors. In both his cooking and his photography, he strives to create things that are uniquely recognizable as his own. “In addition to the profession, I am motivated by my family, my wife, and my daughters. They are the ones who believe in me every day.”
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LUCA ROSATI SAN GIMIGNANO TUSCANY 31
DANIEL NEGREIRA HIDDEN BY DN TAIPEI 32
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aniel Negreira’s unlikely foray into the culinary world stemmed from a desire to imitate Conan the Barbarian— he sincerely wanted to play with knives. As a child, the only way for him to even get close to a knife, was to assist his grandmother in the kitchen. It was this unusual premise that was the genesis of what became a lifelong career. A Galician, Iberia native, Daniel was fortunate to learn alongside some of the best chefs in the business in the culinary mecca of San Sebastián. He experienced success early on, earning accolades such as the Best Young Chef of the Basque Country in 2006, as well as taking the silver medal in the Bocuse d’Or competition in 2007. He then journeyed to Taipei and opened El Toro, a small restaurant that ultimately landed amongst the Top 500 of Asia on the 2009 Miele guide. Looking to expand his footprint significantly, DN Innovación was launched to rave reviews and earned quite a few accolades in a short time. This included being named the best foreign restaurant in the nation in 2013 by the Miele Guide. As CEO and Founder of DN Group, Daniel has been successfully managing Shanghái’s Marina by DN, which was awarded the Best Spanish Restaurant in China by El País. Additionally, Alma by DN was included in the Michelin Guide, Shanghai in 2017 as a Bib Gourmand selection. His latest project in the heart of Taipei, Hidden by DN, has been recommended in the first edition of the prestigious Michelin Guide Taipei 2018, and is the only Spanish restaurant to have this recognition in Taiwan. Daniel has worked in some of the top kitchens with icons such as Ferran Adria, Juan Mari, and Elena Arzak. His style is rooted in a solid foundation of Basque cuisine and is influenced by his significant experiences in Asia. Always keeping a delicate balance between tradition and modernity has been just as important to him, as the balance between complexity and simplicity. Respecting the ingredients and transforming them only when the outcome will enhance the guests’ experience is genuinely his end game—a noble goal for sure. “When we create a new dish, usually the inspiration will come from the source itself. I think that we chefs have a lot to learn from fishermen and farmers about the products we serve on our menus. I visit the fresh markets daily and the harbor two to three times a week. Every time I see the boats approaching the dock and preparing to unload their daily catch, I feel like a child waiting to open his Christmas presents. It is there that we learn from the artisans who make those jewels available. It is there that we can determine the best approach to preparation. Nobody knows better than them about the hidden wonders within their treasures.” Daniel Negreira has become a culinary icon in his own right. A multifaceted chef, author, and businessman. His culinary prowess and vision have carved a unique path to the pleasure of many. His artful approach makes the unusual fusion of Basque and Asian cooking traditions seem incredibly natural, delivering a unique cuisine that is truly memorable. For many, this would be enough, but Daniel is a man with great passion. He is determined to continue to build a legacy that will endure—one that is certain to inspire chefs from around the world for many generations to come.
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TRANSPARENT MONKFISH RAVIOLI TANO SIMONATO TANO PASSAMI L OLIO MILAN INGREDIENTS MONKFISH 500 g monkfish Honey Extra virgin olive oil medium from Sicily or Sardinia Salt GLAZED CARROTS AND CELERY 4 mini carrot 4 stalks of celery Sugar Salt SUNDAY SAUCE 600 g Sunday Sauce DISK OF TOMATO WATER Tomatoes and water. METHOD Wash and clean the tomatoes. Blend the tomatoes along with the skin with an immersion blender. Let it rest for half hour.Pass through a sieve and then through a chinoise lined with a clean napkin until the tomato water drains completely. Put the tomato water in a pan and boil it at 90°C for 10 minutes. Stir with a whisk and pour onto a tray. It should be a maximum of 2 millimeters thick. Refrigerate for 1 hour,. When it is perfectly solid, use a 9 mm pastry cutter to make discs. Keep refrigerated. MONKFISH Clean the monkfish and freeze it for 2 hours. Remove the monkfish an hour before preparation and place it in cold water. Put some oil in the pan with 3 leaves of basil. Lightly coat the monkfish with honey and cook for a few minutes on each side until golden brown. Add salt to taste. Place the monkfish in an oven that has been preheated to 250°C for 5 minutes.
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rowing up in a Peranakan family in Singapore meant that being in love with good food is a given trait. Jean Winter started her culinary journey in her early 30s after deciding to give up her successful career as a government scholar to follow her love for cooking and hosting dinners. Given her lack of experience, this decision to restart her career in the food and beverage industry raised many eyebrows. But Jean proved her naysayers wrong by building what was an accidental business from scratch to the success story that it is today. Family gatherings and dinner parties with friends were never without tasty, proper, home-cooked dishes by her mom. Jean always loved helping her mother and grandmother prepare meals. She was always the only child in the kitchen preparing the vegetables, peeling the prawns and pounding the spices using a mortar and pestle while other children were playing in the backyard. Even at this age, food preparation for her was fun and engaging. To be surrounded by the different smells, colors, and textures of all of the spices, vegetables, and meats was intoxicating and fun. It was through her mom that Jean learned how to cook traditional Peranakan food through the art of taste, sight, and smell. Nothing was ever taught in precise measurements; her mother would make her taste the food and gauge the amount of seasoning needed through ‘the feel.’ This is where Jean learned to cook through her senses, and it did not matter if she was preparing for two or 200 people because the taste would always be just right. Jean was seven months pregnant when her husband, Andrew, was transferred to Genoa, Italy. Living in a foreign country with no family, friends, or house help for the first time in her life meant having to fend for herself. It was here that she discovered the amazing flavors of simple, down to earth Italian cuisine. Surrounded by fresh ingredients from the Ligurian region, Jean learned the intricacies of preparing all of this delicious food from her friends in this area. She learned to understand that magic in the kitchen is created with just a few, fresh, local ingredients. It wasn’t until four years later when her husband was transferred to Geneva, Switzerland, that Jean founded Jean’s Private Kitchen. This highly lauded project started as an underground dining concept cooking the same traditional Peranakan recipes she learned from her mother from the privacy of her home. It began with a simple dinner for seven friends and led to a private guest list of more than 700 people within two years. Since that time, she has hosted a countless number of politicians from the UN/WHO/WTO, Geneva’s top businesses owners, and professional footballers from around the world. With this great success under her belt, she took her business model to Hamburg, Germany just a few years later. Since moving to Dubai in 2016, Jean has expanded her business from Jean’s Private Kitchen, to include Jean Winter Events Management and Jean Winter Consultancy. Among her patrons in the UAE are many food businesses and the Singapore, Australian and Philippines Embassies. Jean was also the main organizer for the exclusive Crazy Rich ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) event hosted by seven ASEAN countries in UAE for the most powerful and influential women in the Emirates. While continuing to fly around the world, cooking her highly coveted Peranakan cuisine for private clients, Jean Winter continues to expand her ever-growing impact on the culinary world. She is genuinely a food ambassador for Singapore, always sharing a slice of Singaporean culture, heritage and cuisine everywhere she goes.
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JEAN WINTER JEAN’S PRIVATE KITCHEN DUBAI 65
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eif Othman’s earliest experiences in the kitchen were those in his mom’s food stall. It was here, at the age of 14, that he would assist in preparing their traditional Javanese food (a mix of Indonesian and Malaysian cuisine). Here he would cut and wash the vegetables, as well as assist in making the pastry and being responsible for the baking. He eventually went on to learn under the tutelage of Violet Oon, a Singaporean chef specializing in Peranakan cuisine. Reif recalls that while mentoring him, it was Violet that recognized his potential. It was this recognition that he credits for giving him the drive that landed him where he is today. In 2007 Reif began gaining international recognition for his culinary talents while working with One Rochester Group in Singapore at some of the city’s top restaurants and hotels. In 2009, Reif joined the team of Zuma Dubai, and as someone who seems to find inspiration in all types of cuisine, his culinary excellence continued. Reif went on to establish Zuma as one of the most renowned restaurants in the City of Gold. He was instrumental in keeping them on San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s Best Restaurants’ list for four consecutive years. He recalls, “At this time, this was my most significant achievement—the hard work and my dedication to Zuma paid off. Consistency was the key to this success.” Reif’s culinary creations seem to be without limits. He takes his guests on a sensory and gastronomic journey, through perfectly balanced, one-of-a-kind cuisine—a masterful blend of exquisite flavors that seamlessly fuse East and West. His simplicity, passion, and innovative exploration away from conventional norms, bring inspiration from around the world. After much success at his restaurant PLAY, in 2016, Reif was the recipient of the 2016 Restaurant of The Year award. “PLAY had only been operational for 12 months, and we bagged the most coveted award of the night. It is a great achievement and it goes to show, that when you are focused on what you do, and you have the best team (both front and back of house), you are already a winner. We have guests that come back again and again, and every time they come back they expect the same level of consistency, taste, presentation, and service.” Reif next launched his most intimate creation—‘The Experience.’ It was here that he unleashed a captivating and mind-blowing culinary experience to Dubai’s elite. This revolutionary concept takes a fresh look at the traditional chef’s table. The exclusive setting seats 12, and stepping into this space, one feels like they are transported to someone’s magnificent living room. The bespoke menu is tailormade, giving guests a one-of-a-kind interactive experience with the chef. In the fall of 2019, Reif will be opening his new restaurant, Kushiyaki. If the past is any indicator of the future, it will be a smashing success. No stranger to awards and accolades, Reif Othman’s accomplishments are many. His acknowledgments include The Pro Chef - Most Innovative Chef, What’s On - Chef of the Year, Time Out - Best Asian Restaurant and Time Out - Restaurant of the Year. Additionally, Reif was not only an ambassador, but had the honor of being the first Asian to be inducted into the Bord Bia Chef’s Irish Beef Club. “When I set out to do something, I pursue it diligently, and at the end of the day, when my hard work pays off, it is extremely rewarding.”
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REIF OTHMAN KUSHIYAKI DUBAI 73
DIAVOLO DI UN TAGLIOLINO! INSPIRED BY FRA’ DIAVOLO SAUCE LUCA ROSATI SAN GIMIGNANO TUSCANY
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TAGLIOLINO DOUGH 200 g of Wheat flour 200 g of Durum wheat semolina 4 Eggs Zest of 1 lemon Grated black pepper (pepe lungo - piper longum) Beat the eggs in a large steel bowl. Gradually pour in the flour, lemon zest and grated pepper and mix slowly with your hands. After mixing the dough well, roll it out to a very thin consistency with a rolling pin, giving it the texture needed to make the tagliolino. To obtain a complete drying of the pasta, it is necessary not to leave it in a too humid an environment because the operation will not succeed. At the same time you do not want it to be too dry as it could form a crust on the outside, leaving the inside damp and therefore fertile soil for bacteria. Once the process is complete, it should be cut into the signature long strips and stored in paper bags in a dry place. Pour enough sunflower oil into a large pot to cover the dough and put it on the fire. When the oil is hot, dip the pasta in the oil for a few seconds until it is crispy and drain. Serve the hot fried tagliolino with the cold gazpacho. FRA DIAVOLO GAZPACHO 500 g Fra Diavolo sauce 1 Slice of cantaloupe melon 1/2 Cucumber 1 or 2 Slices of toasted bread Parsley Salt, pepper, extra virgin olive oil, raspberry vinegar, ice cubes Start by washing and peeling the cucumber. Cut it in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds with a spoon (discard seeds). Chop it coarsely and reduce it to a puree in the mixer with a couple of ice cubes, the melon and the parsley. Pass through a sieve. Finely chop the toasted bread into bread crumbs (or use the blender) and season with salt and pepper. Add the strained vegetable and melon juice along with the breadcrumbs to the Fra Diavolo sauce stirring in the vinegar and olive oil. Let it rest covered in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
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MARINARA MARGARITA TEQUILA, COINTREAU AND MARINARA SAUCE, LACED WITH A FLAVORFUL MAJESTIC EARL GREY MAJESTIC EARL GREY A play on citrusy flavors of the orange in Cointreau and fruity nuances of Tequila, the bergamot in the Majestic Earl Grey delivers a playful balance. This black tea harmonizes with the Marinara sauce and elevates sweetness.
BLOODY MARY VODKA AND FRA DIAVOLO WITH A FRAGRANCE OF ORGANIC LAPSANG SOUCHONG LAPSANG SOUCHONG This high elevation black tea from the Wu Yi Mountains in Fujian China is light in body, yet very complex with a lasting aftertaste. Smoke-dried over a pinewood fire, this aggressively aromatic tea makes the base of the cocktail. The vodka is infused with dry tea leaves at room temperature for 30-40 minutes.
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DIRTY MARY MARTINI PUERH MASALA INFUSED GIN, DRY VERMOUTH AND SUNDAY SAUCE
GAZPACHO SHOT CRANBERRY TEA AND A CHILLED CAPRICCIOSA SAUCE
PUERH MASALA Fermented and aged PuErh, has deep earthy notes and is blended with fennel, aniseed, and cardamom. The licorice root gives this a lasting sweet finish. Infused in gin and mixed with dry vermouth and Sunday Sauce—makes this a winner of a pairing!
RUSH HOUR BERRY A blend of sour hibiscus, sweet roasted apples, and lush berries; the cranberries, strawberries, and blueberries dominate this blend, contrasting the sweetness of the gazpacho shot.
MARINA ZBINDEN AVANTCHA - DUBAI AND MIXOLOGIST SOUVIK DASGOUPTA DUBAI
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orn in Perugia and raised in the heart of Cortona, Silvia Baracchi proudly declares herself Etruscan. Hailing from a family of restaurateurs, she has inherited a passion for good food, sensitivity to tradition, and a passion for the art of hospitality.
“I started to cook when I was a child with my mother and grandma— both of whom had a great passion for Tuscan cuisine. When you breathe the air, hear the sounds, and live the lifestyle of this world, it remains deep in your soul.” In 1989 Silvia opened Il Falconiere by transforming a 17th-century villa on the grounds of her husband’s Baracchi Winery in the quiet Tuscan countryside, into the most glamorous restaurant in the area. In 2002, her hard work paid off, and Il Falconiere received a Michelin star. However, these days Il Falconiere is much more than merely a highly acclaimed restaurant. Il Falconiere is a stunning luxury resort and spa, set on 150 acres of vineyards and olive groves. This idyllic property sweeps across the Tuscan hillside in the shadow of the stunning mountaintop village of Cortona. It is this pristine environment that continues to guide Silvia’s passion. Her cuisine is highly influenced by the Chiana Valley, providing a seemingly endless supply of inspiration. “I like to use exceptional ingredients to create small masterpieces of taste. In the end, I am committed to remaining faithful to Tuscany. What we want from our dishes is consistency—food that gives pleasure and continuity. Each season provides wonderfully perfect products for our kitchen. The changing of seasons push you into a sort of delirium— new ingredients all around—new scents. You wish for fresh and light recipes in the spring. In the summer, we commonly highlight the most savory ingredients. Autumn brings a perfect environment for the most authentic Tuscan cuisine—one that is rich with wild game, truffle, and mushrooms. Finally, in winter—recipes to warm your stomach and soul. However, what is most important—cook what it is that you most love! Don’t follow trends—follow your inspiration.” She continues, “We are lucky to operate in a valley where the prized Chianina breed of cattle was born. Thanks to our proximity to Lake Trasimeno, we can afford to support sustainable fishing. This not only allows us to have very fresh lake fish every day but safeguards marine species that, in some cases, are at risk of extinction. We are rather blessed. We can find all of the best products right in our community and let’s not forget the extra virgin olive oil and the wines produced by my husband Riccardo’s company that is right on the property! The right balance is our goal, and the best way to achieve it is to follow the seasons and be able to capture the most exceptional fragrant flavors and scents. Tuscan cuisine is itself very rich with definitive aromas, but it is essential to balance tradition with contemporary trends.” Seasonal, local, and fresh—Silvia Baracchi emphasizes the quality of ingredients she uses, with the firm belief that Cortona provides the best available in Tuscany. She communicates this passion through her cuisine, which she elevates with the use of spices and aromatic herbs from her garden. Her ongoing commitment to ever-evolving cuisine is the cornerstone of her success and one to be admired. For female chefs working in a male-dominated industry, the honor of having a Michelin star is even more elusive—and one that is genuinely deserved.
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orn in the Philippines, John Buenaventura grew up surrounded by a family and culture in love with food. His grandmother would cook rice cakes to pay for his father’s education. His mother, who was the second child out of eight siblings, would help her mom with the cooking. Preparing food was always front and center in their life. The whole family, including all of his aunts and uncles, loved to create extravagant family feasts during their gatherings. Eventually, John fell in love with cooking as well, and since he had a passion for how food brings people together, making it a career was a natural choice. “Flavor, texture, scent and visual appeal must be balanced to make a complete dish,” he says. It is the ingredients that inspire him. “Black Cardamom is so complex and interesting—it offers a lot of potential.” Dry-aged beef, smoked paprika, garlic, and cumin seeds are some of John’s favorite ingredients. His selection needs to be fresh and as much as possible, locally sourced. He then works around these flavors to enhance them. “There are a lot of ingredients that I have not mastered, and I think cooking is something that will always require constant growth and learning. You will always find new ways to use specific types of food. I am always seeking to innovate and experiment. Every new ingredient is a challenge.” Being drawn to Dubai’s burgeoning culinary scene, John decided to elevate the perception of Filipino cuisine in the UAE. With this in mind, he opened Cuisinero Uno—an “Urban Tapas Bar.” He was motivated by his experience of being deprived of expressing his creativity when he was not in control of the menu. “Having the freedom to express yourself fully is extremely meaningful. Give me the tools to do what I do best and then sit back, relax, and watch me rock it!” John was next appointed Executive Sous Chef, as part of the preopening team of the luxury hotel, Waldorf Astoria DIFC. He and his team were tasked to handle the entire F&B production and operations for all of the brand’s restaurants and dining concepts. From the Philippines to the Maldives, to Abu Dhabi, to the Atlantis; “Being exposed to different types of properties and operations has helped me significantly in my career. From working in a Michelinstar restaurant to being the chef of a catamaran cruise ship in the Maldives, to running a steakhouse at the Atlantis—these experiences were priceless and ones that no culinary school could ever teach. I have worked with great chefs for the past 15 years of my career, and eventually, I streamlined my own style.” He follows one golden rule. “Simple and straightforward—good produce, proper and modern cooking methods to coax the ingredients fully, and of course, lots of love and passion.” Whenever John creates a dish, his focus is first on what’s available in the market. What is fresh is of paramount importance. From there, he looks at different components that would complement the main ingredient. Still a rather young man, John has obtained a level of wisdom. “Learn the craft. Take the time to properly learn and master the basic skills and foundation of being a chef and never be arrogant and over your head! Humility is the key to success. Let your food speak for itself.”
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JOHN BUENAVENTURA ZABEEL HOUSE AL SEEF DUBAI 113
SEBZE GUVEC CLAY POT BABY VEGETABLES INGREDIENTS 800 g Capriccioso sauce 45 g Turkish red pepper (spicy) 3 Bay leaves 10 g Roasted garlic 10 g Chopped parsley VEGETABLES 540 g Baby potatoes, blanched 600 g Yellow zucchini 600 g Green zucchini 450 g Japanese eggplant - pan fried 300 g Pumpkin / butternut squash, peeled, trimmed and pan fried 300 g Artichokes hearts - blanched and then roasted 240 g Assorted baby carrots (various colors) blanched and then roasted 300 g Fava beans 200 g Celeriac - sautéed 180 g Baby onions - sautéed 180 g Tomato - concasse Maldon sea salt Freshly ground black pepper GARNISH Za’atar, Fried garlic, Assorted cresses METHOD Peel or prepare the vegetables as needed. Either blanch or sauté separately. All vegetables should be nicely colored but al dente. Sauté the roasted garlic paste and red pepper paste. Add the tomato sauce and bring to low simmer. Add all of the vegetables apart from the blanched fava beans and bring to a simmer, then place in the oven until nearly cooked. Add the fava beans, chopped parsley and adjust the seasoning. Place in the refrigerator to cool quickly, then vacuum pack into portions. To serve, drop the bag into water to heat through, then place in a Guvec (clay pot). If it is too dry, add more tomato sauce, then place in the oven to get piping hot. Garnish with fried garlic, za’atar and assorted herbs and cresses, then drizzle with a good extra virgin olive oil.
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COLIN CLAGUE RÜYA DUBAI - LONDON
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SARADHI DAKARA THE MAINE DUBAI 148
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t all started when Saradhi Dakara was a child growing up in India. Born and raised in a small town on the south coast, Saradhi faired from a large family and invariably there were many family get-togethers. These occasions always revolved around food and not surprisingly, it was his mother that managed the whole operation. More often than not, she cooked a traditional seven-course menu called a Thali. Saradhi was always eager for her to finish the preparation and join the family, so he would assist her in the kitchen; peeling, chopping, cleaning, plating dishes— whatever was required. “She is a marvelous cook, even now when we get a chance to cook together, I am amazed at her rhythm and touch in the kitchen. Like many chefs, I think this is where my love for cooking stems from. This is certainly what drove me to pursue a career in cooking” says Saradhi. Growing up in India, there were only a few professions that people considered worthy of getting into; medicine, engineering or banking. Unlike most of his peers, these did not interest him. However, the creative aspect of cooking excited him. Unfortunately, in his culture and his family, this career path was not viewed in a respectable light. However, he did not let this deter him and instead used it to motivate himself to further his ambition and prove them wrong. So with that in mind, he went off to study culinary arts. As the group executive chef of The Maine Oyster Bar & Grill and Maine Street Eatery, for Saradhi, preparation is the key. “If you to organize yourself and have everything ready to rock before your guests arrive, you will make your life a lot easier. Use all the information you have—likes, dislikes, allergies... The more information you can gather, the more you can prepare. Because my mother knew the likes and dislikes of family guests, she made sure they were never disappointed. I apply the same principles to my present role. Learn who your customer is, learn what they want and deliver that.” Saradhi doesn’t like to use the word mentor, but rather teacher. His philosophy is that there is always more to learn and he always tries to soak up information from everyone around him. “Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsey had a profound effect on me as a young chef. Also Thomas Keller, Grant Achatz, and Charlie Trotter. But there always seems to be a new chef coming through who is re-defining how we cook. Every day I draw my influence from the people around me—from my servers to my sous chefs—the passion and energy they bring to work is a huge influence.” When Saradhi creates a dish it all starts with one main ingredient with which he wants to work in that particular season. He likes to keep it simple by highlighting the main ingredient and then building around it. Recently he started working with oyster leaf, an ingredient that has fascinated him. “It’s a vegetable but it tastes like an oyster—it’s crazy sometimes what Mother Nature creates.” When he selects his ingredients, the most important thing is the quality, the origin and of course, availability. Some of his favorite ingredients with which to work are bacon, Grana Padano and chocolate. Saradhi Dakara feels that his career is just beginning. Each and every day he wakes thinking about food and most importantly, creating something new and exciting.
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EGGPLANT NEAPOLITAN A SUPPA FAMILY RECIPE INGREDIENTS ¼ cup Pine nuts 2 medium sized eggplant, ¾ inch dice 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 6 Garlic cloves, minced 2 cups Marinara sauce 8 Basil leaves, sliced 3 tbsp Chopped parsley, reserve one ¼ cup Grated ricotta salata Kosher salt Pepper
METHOD Pre-heat oven to 375°F. Toast the pine nuts in a dry sauté pan over medium heat. Toss often until golden brown and reserve (approximately 4 minutes). Place chopped eggplant coated with 3 tsp of kosher salt in colander and after 10 minutes squeeze out the excess liquid. Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium high heat. Add the minced garlic and cook until slightly brown. Add the eggplant and cook stirring occasionally until eggplant is slightly golden (approximately 10 minutes). Add the Marinara sauce along with the basil and parsley. Bring to a simmer stirring often, and cook for approximately 15-20 minutes while cooking off the majority of the liquid. Season the thickened mixture with salt and pepper. Transfer to an appropriate size casserole dish and top with grated ricotta salata. Bake in a 375°F oven for 5-10 minutes, or until cheese starts to brown. Remove and garnish with toasted pine nuts and the reserved parsley. Drizzle with a little more extra virgin olive oil. Serve family style with warm crusty bread. Use as a vegetable accompaniment or appetizer.
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The year is 1571 and the intoxicating aroma dominating the air is that which encompasses a classic, timeless, local ritual, Sunday dinner. Over 400 years later our family recipes are prepared exactly as they were by our ancestors‌ history preserved. Recipes in this book used Silvio’s for their sauce component.
“It’s wonderful to see a book celebrating this glorious DOP-protected fruit—the San Marzano plum tomato from Italy’s Campania region. It may be the tomato of choice for true Neapolitan pizza thanks to its sweet yet meaty flesh, low acidity, minimal seeds, and easy-to-peel skin— however, expect more than just pizza with this book. With recipes from 25 chefs around the world, each one boasts an individual twist on four classic San Marzano sauces. Inspiring dishes.” ~ SAMANTHA WOOD, founder of award-winning restaurant review website www.foodiva.net “LEGACY, the new installment from the award-winning author Flavel Monteiro showcases some of the world’s most cutting-edge and talented chefs creating recipes using San Marzano tomato sauces. LEGACY will inspire and excite everyone from the humble cook to food fanatics and chefs.” ~ SAM AISBETT, chef and restaurateur “Rich in flavor and mild in acidity, the San Marzano tomato has long been a staple of Italian cuisine. LEGACY takes inspiration from the heritage of four classic sauces, reimagining them in never before seen ways—thanks to the creativity of a talented group of culinary experts. If a Marinara Margarita sounds intriguing, you’ll love LEGACY.” ~ ZOE BOWKER, official World’s 50 Best Restaurants & Bars TasteHunter “This extraordinary product is one of the great protagonists of the Mediterranean diet, and also the sauce is par excellence of our region, the traditional “Fritada(fry-Up).” Its potency of flavor, sweetness, and soft textures makes it ideal when cooking over low heat. Bravo for the farmers and thank you Flavel.” ~ JOSÉ LUIS VICENTE GÓMEZ, chef, restaurateur and cookbook author Doug Singer’s prolific career includes being a co-author of Flavors of My World, a luxury lifestyle writer for Jetset Magazine, a business consultant, and a founding partner of Singer New York Real Estate. His body of work includes co-hosting a food-related radio show, representing segments of the culinary world as an on-camera spokesman for interviews with Sony TV and FOX News, and being an emcee for a wide array of public events. His philanthropic endeavors are of paramount importance to him and include being a founding board member of the Winners Circle Project (an organization designed to ignite the passion of high school students through a STEAM program connected to the world of car racing), as well as a Board of Trustees member for the NYC Peace Museum. Flavel Monteiro has been in the hospitality and F & B industry since 1991. His foray into publishing came when he purchased a franchise to publish Millionaire Magazine in Scandinavia, as well as a Filipino magazine in the Middle East. It was in 2014 when Flavel launched WG Magazine, designed to promote the top culinary experiences around the world. Then in 2018, he partnered with Chef Alfredo Russo from Turin, Italy to launch EX.IT—Extraordinary Italian. Most recently, Flavel was the recipient of the Independent Publishers Award for his book Coffee - Absolute Gastronomy. Closest to his heart, three years ago, he started a foundation that helps 36 underprivileged children each year in the Philippines to attend culinary school through a scholarship program.