WG MAGAZINE FEBRUARY 2017
a feast for the palate...
ANA ROŠ
THE WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2017
DANIEL BOULUD
OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR
ELIZABETH STEVENSON-HOCKS A SWEET TOUCH
MANISH MEHROTRA
AN INDIAN ACCENT www.wgmagazines.com
MICHEL GUÉRARD LEGENDARY CHEF WG February 2017 -
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Editor Lifestyle Editor Culinary Editor Feature Editor Contributing Editor Photography
Fabian deCastro Doug Singer Claudia Ferreres Oilda Barreto Michael Hepworth Victoria Shashirin
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Cover Image Credit: Manish Mehrotra Makhan Malai, saffron Milk, Rose Petal Sugar Photo © Helge Kirchberger / Red Bull Hangar-7
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MAGAZINES
In the early 70’s Michel Guérard, alongside chefs Paul Bocuse, Roger Verge, Troisgros brothers and Alain Chapel, championed the movement of French Cuisine and today are considered to be the founding fathers of “Nouvelle Cuisine and 2017 marks the 40th Anniversary of three Michelin Stars for the legendary chef and pioneer of healthy cuisine, Michel Guérard at Les Prés d’Eugénie in South-West France. We then head out to taste Indian cuisine with Manish Mehrotra at Hangar-7 in Salzburg. Hiša Franko is our next stop to meet with The World’s Best Female Chef 2017 - Ana Roš.
To elevate our epicurean experience we travel to the US, we will follow the outstanding restauranteur Daniel Boulud, Lindsay Autry, Jose Mendin, Marc Murphy, Clay Conley, Lee Wolen, Timon Balloo and Master Sommelier Virginia Philip. A short trip to Chile to meet Oscar Barrera Marengo, The World’s 50 Best Restaurant Tastemaker - prior to heading off for a delicious tour to Hong Kong to meet The King Of Truffles Umberto Bombana, the 2017 Winner Of The Diners Club Lifetime Achievement Award and Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 – May Chow. While in the east we venture off to Seoul to meet the Miele One To Watch by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Kim Dae-Chun. Italy is our next stop to meet the ambassadors of Italian food and wine culture – Lidia and Joe Bastianich and then head out to meet the man with passion Michele Moschioni.
Play by the Day, a brand new Friday brunch concept from PLAY that is sure to set Dubai by storm, an exciting line up of surprise live entertainment and excellent cuisine by the one and only Reif Othman. Sweet, Salty, Tangy, Crunchy is Dubai-based Canadian Pastry Chef Elizabeth Stevenson-Hocks’ secret to a perfect desert. If you happen to be in Dubai or Goa on the day named after St. Valentine, you be in luck. The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri has masterfully created three special dishes while Grand Hyatt Goa is giving you an array of romantic dining and spa options to celebrate this day of love. Bon Appétit
FdeCastro
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FEBRUARY 2017
MAGAZINES
CONTENTS 36
The Legendary Chef
46
Outstanding Restaurateur
60
Indian Accent
70
The World’s Best Female Chef 2017
76
PLAY By The Day
80
A Sweet Touch
92
The King Of Truffles
100 Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 104 A Beauty of Flavors 114 The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Tastemaker 118 Ambassadors Of Italian Food & Wine 126 Master Sommelier 136 Red - What A Passion 140 Jose Mendin 150 Miele One To Watch - TocToc 154 Marc Murphy 166 Valentine Dining Experience At The Artisan 168 Celebrate Love At Grand Hyatt Goa 170 New Spanish Cuisine 176 Clay Conley 182 Lee Wolen 186 Timon Balloo
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Makhan Malai, Saffron Milk, Rose Petal Sugar Photo © Helge Kirchberger / Red Bull Hangar-7
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Geales of London. The original purveyors of seafood nosh since 1939. Now open in Dubai.
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Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai | For reservations call 04 316 5550 | www.geales-dubai.com
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‘ WOGOA FOUNDATION
Identifying underprivileged children with culinary ambitions...
Culinary Arts can give new life to children... we make it our mission to identify talented, underprivileged children with culinary ambitions and provide opportunities that otherwise would have been beyond their reach…
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WO’GOA Foundation Ambassador An inspirer, innovator and perfectionist - Grant encompasses all the qualities that deserving children can glean from a role model!
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partnered with SKD ACADEMY the culinary institute in the Philippines
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Albert Adrià
Heinz Beck
Andreas Caminada
Ferràn Adrià
Thank you Chefs for your support to Massimo Bottura
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Carme Ruscalleda
Duane Keller
Matt Moran
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Andoni Luis Aduriz
Georgianna & Nikos
José Avillez
Martin Benn
WO’GOA Foundation Tae Hwan Ryu
Umberto Bombana
Francesco Apreda
Grant MacPherson
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MICHEL GUÉRARD
The Legendary Chef at Les Prés d’Eugénie 2017 marks the 40th Anniversary of three Michelin Stars for the leg-endary chef and pioneer of healthy cuisine, Michel Guérard at Les Prés d’Eugénie in South-West France.
MICHEL GUÉRARD
Michel Guérard started his career after the Second World War as an apprentice pastry chef. In 1958, aged just 25, whilst working as the head Pastry Chef at Hotel de Crillon, Paris, he was awarded the coveted title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France. Guérard then strengthened his position amidst culinary scene during his time cooking for some of the most reputable establishments in Paris. In 1965, the opening of his own restaurant Le PotPhoto © Les Prés d’Eugénie Au-Feu marked the start of his foray into the world of Michelin Star success, being awarded his first Michelin Star in 1967, and the second in 1971, consecrating Le Pot-Au-Feu as the place to be on the Parisian gastronomic scene.
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MICHEL GUÉRARD
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In the early 70’s Michel Guérard, alongside chefs Paul Bocuse, Roger Verge, Troisgros brothers and Alain Chapel, championed the movement of French Cuisine and today are considered to be the founding fathers of “Nouvelle Cuisine.” However, it was Guérard’s passion for produce, the art of healthy and gourmet living, and even more so, the love for his wife Christine Barthelemy, which led him to Les Prés d’Eugénie, Eugénie-les-Bains. In 1974, Eugénie-les-Bains was a charming spa village in the Landes region, visited by guests suffering from diabetes and overweight. Michel set about developing a revolu-tionary new method of eating to support the spa and to attract the Parisian clientele seeking healthier cuisine in a rural setting. Therefore, in 1975 Grande Cuisine Minceur® (Great slimming cuisine) was born and Eugénieles-Bains became France’s Number One Slimming Village. Michel Guérard’s success in creating a new school of culinary understanding came at the same time as his success at Les Prés d’Eugénie with his gourmet cuisine which received the accolade of a Michelin Star in 1974, followed by a second one just a year later, and the third star in 1977. Under the guidance of the culinary master Guérard, Les Prés d’Eugénie has seen numerous exceptional chefs pass through its doors, including Sébas-tien Bras, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud, Andrew Fairlie and Gérald Passedat, all seeking to experience the talent and passion that Guérard embodies.
MICHEL GUÉRARD IS ONE OF THE FATHERS OF NOUVELLE CUISINE AND THE FOUNDER OF THE CUISINE MINCEUR... WG February 2017 -
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MICHEL GUÉRARD
“I cook the way a bird sings”, says the master. Free, clear, light, cheerful, ethereal, calm, silky, smooth… “I play with the joy of flavours the way Mozart used to play with notes – impertinently, inquisitively and poetically” Michel Guérard Michel is now a key figure in educating and changing perceptions of healthy cuisine. His school The Institute Michel Guérard® teaches a rounded culinary education that includes pastry, practical culinary skills and theory, all taught by industry professional, including doctors and dieticians. It was Michel Guérard’s passion for healthy cuisine that led him to work with the Nestlé Group and their research department to explore the science behind food and people’s relationships with it, resulting in the Findus-Guérard food range and, a little later, the Findus Cuisine Légère range. In 2009, motivated by Guérard’s work, The Ministry of Health and a steering committee of experts chaired by Guérard himself complied a White Paper on ‘Cooking, Health and Pleasure.’ At its heart, the paper explores Guérard’s fundamental belief that traditional cooking needs to be at the core of healthy eating and that it is crucial for taste and enjoyment to prevail over for dietary habits changes to succeed.
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MICHEL GUÉRARD
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Les Pres d’Eugenie Family owned and operated hotel, spa and gourmet haven in the beautiful south-west of France and home to one of the most famous French chefs in the world, Michel Guérard , his wife Christine and their daughters. The Les Pres d’Eugenie estate offers 25 rooms, 20 suites and apartments, plus an additional two wild lodges on the Atlantic coast. Three restaurants including their fine dining three-Michelin starred restaurant, which has held its Michelin status for nearly 40 years, a thermal spa and a 50-acre vineyard. Les Pres d’Eugenie is a member of Relais & Chateaux. WG February 2017 -
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MICHEL GUÉRARD
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MICHEL GUÉRARD INSPIRATION IS EVERYWHERE IN THE FABULOUS NATURAL ENVIRONMENT OF FRANCE’S GASCONY REGION... To celebrate the 40th Anniversary, the Guérard family are inviting guests to join the celebrations with a ‘40th Celebration Package’ at Les Pres d’Eugenie. During their stay, guests will find themselves immersed in the world of French Cuisine and transported on a journey through gastronomic history, following in the footsteps of chef Michel Guérard as he transformed the picturesque stone village of Les Prés d’Eugénie into a culinary haven. During a two-night stay, including gourmet breakfasts in the luxurious hotel, guests will receive a VIP welcome of homemade garden madeleines and a bottle of Guérard Wine, as well as two incredible dinners. A celebration dinner in the 3 Michelin Star restaurant includes Truffle Cloud, Smoked Lobster and Roast Duck. A Landais Terroir Dinner in the Historic Inn La Ferme aux Grives features delicious creations of rustic seasonal produces. WG February 2017 -
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DANIEL BOULUD
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PHOTO © THOMAS SCHAUER
WG MAGAZINE
Daniel BOULUD OUTSTANDING RESTAURATEUR
Daniel Boulud is Chef-Owner of several awardwinning restaurants and the Feast & Fêtes catering company. While he hails from Lyon, France, it is in New York that he has truly mastered the dining scene, and is today considered one of America’s leading culinary authorities. Raised on his family’s farm in the village of Saint-Pierre-de-Chandieu, the chef remains inspired by the rhythm of the seasons and menus driven by fine ingredients. Since arriving in the United States in 1982, Boulud has become renowned for the contemporary appeal he adds to soulful cooking rooted in French tradition. Chef Boulud’s New York City restaurants include his flagship DANIEL (1993), a Michelin-starred Relais & Châteaux member; the elegant one Michelin star Café Boulud (1998) with its adjacent cocktail bar, Bar Pleiades; his contemporary Parisian bistro, db bistro moderne (2001); two Upper West Side restaurants including the charcuterie-centric Bar Boulud (2008) and the Mediterranean-themed Boulud Sud (2011). DBGB Kitchen and Bar (2009), is Boulud’s relaxed restaurant inspired by French brasserie meets American Tavern and Épicerie Boulud (2011), which has three locations, is an eat-in and take-out market and café offering homemade and gourmet items from around the world. WG February 2017 -
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DANIEL BOULUD
Beyond Manhattan the chef has created Café Boulud in Palm Beach (2003) and db bistro moderne in downtown Miami, Fla. (2010). The great chef has also extended his culinary reach internationally with db bistro moderne at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands (2010), Bar Boulud London (2010) at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, Café Boulud at the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto (2012), and Maison Boulud at the Ritz-Carlton Montréal (2012). In spring 2014 the Chef returned to Las Vegas and opened db Brasserie in partnership with The Venetian® Las Vegas. Additionally, in September 2014 he opened a second DBGB at downtown Washington D.C.’s CityCenterDC, and Bar Boulud at Boston’s Mandarin Oriental. Boulud’s culinary accolades include James Beard Foundation awards for “Outstanding Restaurant,” “Outstanding Restaurateur,” “Best Chef, New York City” and “Outstanding Chef of the Year.” He has been named “Chef of the Year” by the Culinary Institute of America and Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur by the French government. Restaurant DANIEL has been cited as “one of the ten best restaurants in the world” by the International Herald Tribune, has earned multiple Michelin stars and Wine Spectator’s “Grand Award”. In 2015 the World’s 50 Best Restaurants awarded Boulud the Diners Club® Lifetime Achievement Award for his success as a restaurateur, businessman, and ‘chef who is revered as one of the world’s finest.’ Boulud’s culinary style is reflected in nine cookbooks, including the definitive “DANIEL: My French Cuisine” (Grand Central Publishing, 2013) and his most recent “My Best: Daniel Boulud” (Ducasse Books, 2014).
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SCALLOPS IN BLACK TIE
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DANIEL BOULUD
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SEA BASS EN PAUPIETTE
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WG Magazine had to chance to speak with Chef Boulud about all of his accomplishments. Today you are considered one of the most sought after chefs in the world, but everyone starts somewhere - tells us how you found your way into the culinary field? Contrary to today - where food and culinary professions are part of mainstream culture - in my day, the culinary field was not promoted as much. When I started at age 14, it was really about choosing a profession – and trying to find a very good mentor. That said, in France, great chefs have always existed, and at the time I was growing up, a number of the chefs who were making a great impact – like Paul Bocuse – were concentrated around Lyon. I knew I was joining in that tradition and that I could have become a charcutier or a patissier – but my ambition was to become a great Chef de Cuisine, because that was really the elite of the “food chain.” I also saw that it was a career that had potential for international opportunities as well. Of course, the initial appeal was not in the salary. Even after three years of apprenticeship, I was making $3 a week, but I was continuing my education – going to school and apprenticing at Nandron. Every month and every season was a new adventure. I remember in the fall, the owner at Nandron would drive up with a trunk full of wild game. I would spend days plucking the feathers from birds in the cellar. Those kinds of experiences, accumulating with every season, made me love this business.
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DANIEL BOULUD
You insightfully share that balance is not the same as simplicity, tell us more on your philosophy. Balance is always the goal, but that is not the same thing as simplicity. Yes, you can make a dish with two ingredients and it will have the perfect balance, but adding complexity, layering flavor and textures, while maintaining that balance – that is the hard thing. He gives us an example; I was recently working with celery and lobster – and even though it was just two ingredients, I used the celery in several different ways. [I did a] confit celery in lobster butter, a fine julienne of roasted celery, celery mousseline and celery chips. Yes, it could have been more simple, but that is the excitement of cooking. I wanted to feature all the possible textures and tastes of celery, which provided contrast and complexity to the dish.
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ICON POULARDE
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You are revered for creating some of the best food in the world; tell us more about how you find your inspiration and where the creativity process starts. The process of creativity has many sources. It depends – sometimes the inspiration is in the kitchen, working with an ingredient or a certain pairing of flavors and textures. Other times it’s sketching with a piece of paper and a pen; or sitting down with the team to throw around ideas; or looking at the seasonal market. It’s sometimes about referring to French cuisine, but it’s also about expanding on it – creating new textures and layers of preparation. What it is not about is being eccentric. The key is that this is a kind of focused creativity, inspired by tradition, the seasons, the local terroir, and – of course – the team you work with. I think the collaborative element of cooking is very important. I don’t know any chefs who can say their food is 100 percent theirs; there is such a complicity with the team, with the program you try to develop with your team. It’s like a designer or an architect – you want to surround yourself with individuals who are a source of inspiration and who can help you execute your vision on the highest level.
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DANIEL BOULUD
They say experience is the best teacher, tell us a bit more about some of your own experiences and how they helped guide your beginning years as a chef. Starting with a good mentor is so important, as that person will help you along the way in your career. When I finished my apprenticeship at Nandron, I told my chef I wanted to go to Georges Blanc. He was a young chef who had just taken over a great restaurant from his mother. I was 17 and he was just 27 or 28. For me, it was also a dream to work in a very famous place in Lyon’s countryside – the heartland for crayfish, frog legs, poulet de bresse and other specialties that were really local. It wasn’t the sophisticated, urbane world of Lyon, but there was a very refined sense of terroir. After two years, I asked Georges to go to south of France to work with Roger Verge. I could see that he was a chef who had travelled the world and decided to settle in Provence. He was making the most spectacular food – classic, yes, but he reinterpreted provencale cuisine with an amazing sense of perfection. I then went to Denmark, and then came back to work in the southwest of France to work with Michel Guérard. Again, it was the discovery of a region and a sense of terroir – this time of the Pays Basque – and the perfection of that local cuisine. The hospitality, the sense of service and the whole setting – it was such a magical place. Something that linked all of these experiences was that each restaurant was a part of two associations: Relais & Chateaux and Les Grandes Tables du Monde. That was my guiding compass, to always work for restaurants found in both guides, because it signified the best chefs in France and also the rising great chefs of the world. Today, I am very proud that DANIEL belongs to those associations as well.
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PHOTO © NOAH FECKS
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DANIEL BOULUD
Speaking of teaching, your book “My Best” is part of a series with Alain Ducasse, Eric Ripert and Pierre Hermé – tell us a little more about the unique concept of this cookbook and why it is different from traditional household cookbooks. Alain Ducasse started the “My Best” series in France. The idea was that most cookbooks offer 100 recipes, but you really will only cook 10 of them – at most. So he wanted to make visual cookbooks where there were 10 recipes explained perfectly. It’s about having the confidence to cook everything in the book, rather than to have 50 recipes where you’re not exactly sure of how to execute it successfully. The recipes I chose are of different levels, but they are all feasible to make at home with a little bit of equipment and the proper ingredients. Many of the dishes come from my restaurants – like the Thai Sausage from DBGB or the Sea Bass “en Paupiette” from Café Boulud. In 2008, Paul Bocuse asked you to establish a structure for better selecting and supporting the USA team to compete in the annual Bocuse d’Or competition. Today, that organization is called Ment’or, which you chair alongside Thomas Keller and Jerome Bocuse. Tell us what you have hoped to achieve with the creation of the Ment’or organization. The Ment’or organization has two main goals. The first is to support the next generation of young chefs by creating a structure for exchange between great chefs and talented cooks, and to provide the opportunity for these emerging talents to spend time in other kitchens and expand their skillset. It opens doors and brings a very inspiring, motivated group of chefs together. The second goal, of course, is to help mentor, train and support the American team for the Bocuse d’Or competition. One objective supports the other, because as we form relationships with these young chefs, we are helping to inspire them to maybe, one day, compete in the Bocuse d’Or.
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PHOTO © CRED DANIEL KRIEGER
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DANIEL BOULUD
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PHOTO © SIGNE BIRCK
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PHOTO © NOAH FECKS
Chef Boulud you have accomplished so much in your career that some might say you’ve accomplished it all. Awards aside, how do you stay motivated and inspired? When you reach a certain level of success, you are able to give back to the next generation, which I find very motivating. Working with the team in all of my restaurants, maintaining the highest level of food and service – really, seeing what we can accomplish together – is very inspiring. In turn, the loyalty of my team – the trust they have in me and the senior management at The Dinex Group - motivates me, as well as the endless creativity that I see coming from their kitchens. There are always business challenges and the teams may change, but learning to overcome each hurdle is a meaningful part of the process. Finally, I find it incredibly meaningful to be able to travel and share our style of cooking and service all over the world. PHOTO © SIGNE BIRCK
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MANISH MEHROTRA
MANISH MEHROTRA AN INDIAN ACCENT
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Text Hangar-7 Photo © Helge Kirchberger / Red Bull Hangar-7
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MANISH MEHROTRA
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JACKFRUIT, CHILI, POTATO SALAD OF BRETON LOBSTER WITH CAULIFLOWER AND PUILLY FUSSÉ GELÉE
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MARTIN KLEIN AND MANISH MEHROTRA IN IKARUS KITCHEN
India is growing curious. Today, the markets of New Delhi no longer hold only the vibrant treasures of the local cuisine: foreign foods that beguile local palates can been found more and more frequently. Whether or not products such as the Australian yeast extract ‘Vegemite’ enrich Indian cuisine is for each individual to decide. What is certain is that Chef Manish Mehrotra at Indian Accent welcomes these international influences and transforms them into dishes that transport you across entire continents with just your fork. And this does not go unnoticed: Indian Accent was the only Indian restaurant to be listed among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015 and 2016 and was also the best restaurant in India among San Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in those two years. The New York City Guide 2017 awarded Mehrotra’s newly-opened restaurant in New York with the distinction No.1 Restaurant in Indian Cuisine. WG February 2017 -
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You will find Manish Mehrotra in his restaurant Indian Accent, far away from the colourful marketplaces. And the contrast could not be greater – an Eden-like garden, serene and resplendent with the scent of tropical flowers. Inside the restaurant, which has won just about every award going, there is an almost colonial style: pomp and pageantry is nowhere to be found and yet you get the impression that every last detail has been carefully selected and coordinated.
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DEGUSTATION OF INDIAN PAPADS
It is here that Mehrotra’s guests learn how the chef crowned the ‘Best Chef in India’ by American Express infuses Indian haute cuisine with international flair. He describes his cooking style as “inventive Indian cuisine” and Indian food with an international touch – or vice versa. Naan bread stuffed with blue cheese, his take on ravioli illed with West Indian chickpeas – the food stylishly arranged on the plates here may look international, but the taste is classically Indian. This is vitally important because diners at Indian Accent know just how good Indian food can taste. And that is why, despite his love of experimentation, Mehrotra has never even considered mixing the aromas of two different Indian regions on one plate. Yet the combination of global ingredients and techniques with an Indian soul and flavour enraptures guests all the more.
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But everything could have turned out quite differently: in Mehrotra’s family home a strict “no garlic, no onions”diet was enforced. His mother even had to relocate to the terrace and use separate utensils for cooking eggs due to the wishes of his vegetarian father. Fortunately for the international gourmet scene, however, as a young man Mehrotra spent his summers with relatives in New Delhi and Mumbai, where he was free to taste whatever he wanted. And it is exactly this freedom that he offers diners at Indian Accent. No ingredient is frowned upon and everything is possible, as long as it meets the chef’s exacting standards. TripAdvisor also awarded Indian Accent with the distinction No.1 Restaurant in India from 2014 to 2016.
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MANISH MEHROTRA IN IKARUS KITCHEN
MARTIN KLEIN AND MANISH MEHROTRA IN IKARUS KITCHEN
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MANISH MEHROTRA COLIN CLAGUE
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BACON PRAWNS, WASABI, INDIAN RISOTTO SALAD OF BRETONTANDOORI LOBSTER WITH CAULIFLOWER AND PUILLY FUSSÉ GELÉE
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MANISH MEHROTRA IN IKARUS KITCHEN
And these standards have not emerged from thin air: Mehrotra learned his craft under celebrated chef Ananda Solomon at Vivanta by Taj. From there, his career took him to Delhi, where he helped to bring Old World Hospitality’s Oriental Octopus the success it enjoys today. Many restaurant openings and world travels later, thenow highly decorated chef was back in New Delhi at The Manor Hotel, and it was in this hotel’s restaurant tha the presented his vision of a modern, cosmopolitan Indian cuisine. Those whose mouths are watering at the thought of 21st century Indian cuisine can now save themselves the long journey as chef Manish Mehrotra will grace Hangar-7 with his tenure as guest chef in February. WG February 2017 -
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ANA ROŠ
HIŠA FRANKO KOBARID, SLOVENIA
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Cooking was never the intended path for Ana Roš – especially not in the eyes of her father, a doctor, and her mother, a journalist from a family of diplomats. But her work and studies towards diplomacy came to an abrupt end when she met husband Valter and decided to take over his parents’ restaurant in Slovenia’s remote Soča Valley.
She took on the kitchen at Hiša Franko with no culinary training, no experience in running a restaurant and no real desire to give up her ambitious career plans. Almost 20 years later, she has put her country on the gastronomic map, starred in her own episode of Netflix’s hit series Chef ’s Table, and been voted by her peers as The World’s Best Female Chef.
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REVIVAL OF BRODETTORED MULLET,SCORPION FISH,CANDY LEMON,RED ONION MARINATED IN ORANGE BLOSSOMS
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ANA ROÅ
SANJSKI VRTICEK
WALNUT MERINGUE, 21 DAY KEFFIR, PEAR IN CAMOMILLE, FOREST HONEY AND POLLINE ICE CREAM
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PASTA FILLED WITH SHEEP COTTAGE CHEESE, LANGOUSTINES,GREEN ASPARAGUS BONE MARROW
SQUIDS FILLED WITH LAMB SWEETBREADS, FAVA BEEN AND CAVE CHEESE
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Roš wasn’t born with a particular desire or passion for cooking has never mattered. She excels at everything she turns her hand to – from languages (she speaks five) to sports (she skied on the Yugoslav national team until the age of 18) to academia (she has a degree in international and diplomatic science). Naturally, then, she turned local restaurant Hiša Franko into a place that would garner international attention – but it wasn’t without its challenges. Having gained its independence only in 1991, Slovenia in the Nineties wasn’t a hotbed of creativity. Waking up after decades of communism’s relative isolation, it gained the freedom to reimagine local cuisine, rather than taking on myriad global influences. Hiša Franko was a popular restaurant run by Roš’s parents-inlaw but it was the free-thinking chef who turned its menu around, introducing creative dishes based on hyperlocal ingredients. Part of the change came from Roš’s curiosity and desire to play around with the region’s produce. WG February 2017 -
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The accidental chef who put Slovenian cuisine on the map Roš’s mother-in-law had a garden and a lake from which she fished trout to feed the family, but she didn’t use these homegrown ingredients in the restaurant. Roš had her eureka moment when she saw a farmer growing sunchokes and feeding them to the pigs and wild boar. She decided to start cooking with the sunchokes and soon the farmer followed suit. Her curiosity sparked that of the locals, who turned their attention to previously ignored and misunderstood produce. Roš brought these ingredients into the restaurant, adopting a “zero kilometre” approach and building a food chain of around 60 people, which in turn helped the community to re-establish lost traditions. She began to apply and combine ingredients, creating beautiful dishes such as trout and its liver with white asparagus and pink grapefruit, while Valter, who doubles as the sommelier, started ageing local Tolmin cheese in their cellar. Although there are no Michelin stars in Slovenia and the country is somewhat overshadowed by the culinary successes of its neighbours – Italy and Austria, in particular – Roš has propelled Hiša Franko onto the global gastronomic stage and earned her place among the world’s top cooks. The cosy family restaurant, located in an idyllic rural setting overlooking the lush Soča Valley itself, now attracts customers from across the globe to sample Roš’s unique five- and nine-course tasting menus. She follows in the footsteps of Dominique Crenn, Hélène Darroze and Anne-Sophie Pic as The World’s Best Female Chef and says she’ll use the award to change the perception of her tiny country ’s culinary status. There seems little doubt she will succeed.
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THIS ROSE IS FOR YOU - HARMONY OF MOUNTAIN BERRIES AND SPRUCE
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PLAY RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE - DUBAI
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PLAY by the DAY A brand new Friday brunch concept from PLAY that will be sure to set Dubai by storm, with an exciting line up of surprise live entertainment and a mouthwatering set of brand new brunch dishes from the one and only Chef Reif Othman. Children are welcome, so don’t forget to bring your little ones... PLAY is a place for thinkers, dreamers, trendsetters and mavericks, everyone who approaches life in a more playful way. It is a place where those looking for a destination that reflects their outlook on life, their style and their aspirations can get together, socialise, laugh and enjoy exceptional food, drinks and music in a unique atmosphere designed to stimulate all the senses. PLAY is not just dining venue – it’s a state of mind, an experience!
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ELIZABETH STEVENSON-HOCKS
It’s interesting to learn how chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Elizabeth Stevenson-Hocks tells us how she found his way into the culinary field to become a pastry chef and the inspiration to pursue her culinary dreams professionally… The journey was a gradual one – I had studied music and visual arts when I was younger, and did an undergraduate degree in fine arts at the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design in Halifax, Nova Scotia. After graduating I struggled to make ends meet as a young artist, and I took jobs in kitchens to supplement my income. I ended up loving the culinary process, since it is very similar to the process used in any other creative discipline. I was using my hands, engaging my senses, and feeding people. It A SWEET TOUCH was a wonderful feeling, and very empowering to me as a young person. At some point, I made the Dubai-based Canadian Pastry Chef and owner of decision to ‘do’ cooking as a career, and put all my Lady Battenberg FZ-LLC, a specialist consultancy focus in this area. I moved to Montreal, then from company that provides bespoke menus and recipe Montreal to London where I worked for a very welldevelopment, chef training and kitchen design to known chef whose kitchen was brutal. The pastry select clients. Prior to founding Lady Battenberg, section was the quietest, and I found I could work Stevenson-Hocks worked as Executive Pastry Chef very effectively there without getting yelled at (as for Qbara, an award-winning arabesque-themed much). I preferred the methods used in pastry, and restaurant in Dubai; Executive Pastry Chef for so for my next job I specifically sought out a pastry Caprice Holdings MENA, and spent several years position. The rest is more or less history. I’ve always in London between J Sheekey, Scott’s, Le Caprice, preferred working in restaurants, probably because of the rush, but also because I love the delicate and Boxwood restaurants. balancing act of service; the skills required to make WG Magazines catches up with Pastry Chef it a success night after night are like performance Elizabeth Stevenson-Hocks… art.
Elizabeth Stevenson-Hocks
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Elizabeth’s desserts are a unique creations, creative with a composition of flavors and complex. One such example is her chicken dessert – she tells us how she brings this balance on a plate… The chicken dessert, known as Tavuk göğsü has its origins in Ottoman Turkey, where it was prepared at Topkapı Palace and served to the sultans. It is a signature dish of Turkey, and typically made with cinnamon and milk. You don’t taste the chicken so much – it is more used for texture. The chicken’s protein gives it a texture similar to pannacotta or blancmange. The result is a creamy pudding that is traditionally served on its own, but tastes equally great offset by small bursts of acid, such as berries. Combination of ingredients with different techniques – Elizabeth shares her favorite flavor combinations… I’m a fan of strong, bold flavours, like anise, or coffee, cardamom, citrus, saffron. When used judiciously, they can really bring a dish to life, especially if paired with a fatty element to offset their overpowering nature, like cream, caramel or chocolate. So for instance, I love saffron with white chocolate, and cardamom with caramel, and citrus ice creams.
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STAMBOUL WHITE CHOCOLATE & YOGURT CREAM, LEMON LOKUM, STRAWBERRY AND BASIL SORBET
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Elizabeth takes us through the process of creating a new dessert… It always starts with a vague inspiration of some kind – an image, colour, shape, ingredient or flavor profile. This is then elaborated to form the basis of a dish, and I usually strive to provide context – whether historical, social or place-based. For me this is very important, because it makes the difference between something that people can engage with, rather than simply an inanimate object on a plate. It also gives me a purpose, especially if I can tie that into research or travel, or meetings with suppliers or purveyors. Then, I’ll start to test the flavor profiles, whether they work together. This is followed by recipe development or adaptation, where I’ll test the flavor and texture profiles, and so on and so forth until a dish is complete. This process can go on indefinitely, and I’ve learned over the years that it’s best to start with a very strong idea of what you want to achieve, otherwise the process can go nowhere. I’ll often scrap things after weeks, only to pick them up again successfully a few months later with a different perspective. And sometimes you get lucky – an idea can materialize into something awesome in a matter of days. It helps to surround yourself with talented people – synergy is important. WG February 2017 -
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Sweet, Salty, Crunchy, Tangy… Elizabeth’s secret to a perfect dessert and how she brings this balance on a place… I love desserts that engage as many areas of the palette as possible, since I think playing to these taste sensations make for a more memorable and visceral experience. For instance, a tangy yoghurt sorbet with a crunchy salted praline is much more interesting than either of those on their own. I love adding salt to counterbalance sweet, so I use salted nuts in ice creams a lot. Likewise I’m a fan of chili in chocolate, and I love using kunafa pastry with dairy, since it has a crunchy texture like Frosted Mini-Wheats, which was this breakfast cereal I loved when I was a kid. My approach is similar to achieving a balance in cooking – start with a base and manipulate and tweak it until you’re satisfied. In general, using less sugar helps to bring out salt and sour, so I often work first to reduce the sweetness levels to their lowest possible point, and continue from there.
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YUMURTALI EKMEK SAFFRON FRENCH TOAST ICED KAYMAK, ROASTED STONE FRUIT, CARAMEL
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“If I hadn’t discovered kitchens I would have continued my studies in art, probably printmaking – I love lithography but definitely something creative! The next trend emerging in desserts… In general I think we will start to see a lot more Middle Eastern and Turkish influences start to make their way into pastry chefs menus, since a lot of these traditional ingredients and flavours are starting to be more recognized. Outside of restaurants, the trend seems to be towards ‘mono’ desserts, or pastry shops that specialize in just one area. We are seeing this for example with éclairs, and macarons. Elizabeth tells us about pairings of her desserts and pastries with beverages… There is one dessert I developed for Rüya, made from watermelon and mint (basically a watermelon ice pop) that is especially nice with a glass of raki. The anise flavor of the raki is very complementary to the watermelon. My inspiration for that came from Turkey, where after the meal raki is served as a digestif, and watermelon and other fruit is often brought to the table for dessert. WG February 2017 -
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REVANI & HONEY REVANI, KAYMAK, HONEY SEASONAL FRUIT
Elizabeth recipes are inspired… “My personal favorite is an elaboration on a basic pannacotta that was developed for a contemporary Middle Eastern restaurant in Dubai. The ingredients were simple, there was nothing overly technical about the dish but the flavor pairings were golden. It contained sumac and was made from Greek yoghurt, so it was very creamy. It was paired with an incredible saffron honey from Yemen, walnut praline, condensed milk sorbet and saffron pashmak (basically, Iranian cotton candy). The pashmak was bought from an Iranian sweet shop in the neighborhood of Satwa in Dubai, since we couldn’t make it ourselves. The overall taste was sweet, salty, sour and crunchy and cold. Basically, a mouth party. It ended up being the most popular dish on the dessert menu.“ Elizabeth tells us about this equipment she particular enjoys using, special cooking techniques and her approach to baking… I love my PacoJet, and my KitchenAid, and my CookTek. I do have a lot of toys. In general though, I can get by with very little, and I don’t like to rely on specific equipment to produce a recipe; I’d rather rely on skills. The reality is that many kitchens don’t have the budgets for fancy kit. Likewise, my approach to successful baking is simply to know your machines very well. Not all ovens are created equal, and getting to know an oven is akin to codebreaking: once you’re in, you’re in.
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ÇIKOLATA VE TURK KAHVESI DARK CHOCOLATE KIBBEH TURKISH COFFEE CREAM, LIQUORICE NIBS, AND SALTED CARAMEL
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Elizabeth’s advice to those interested in becoming pastry chefs and how to take baking to the next level for home cooks… Work hard, ask questions. Understand the value of being mentored by those with more experience than you. Read. Take notes. Accept that you might have to take a few steps back in order to move forward. Experiment on your own time and don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Practice, practice, practice. Take it slow and focus on mastering one skill at a time. I am largely selftaught in cooking and pastry and started out with zero ability, working from books like The Joy of Cooking (really!) and testing on friends who were grateful for the free food. If I can do it, anyone can. MUHALEBBI DONDURMA, BAKLAVA, BUBBLE GUM ESPUNA
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UMBERTO BOMBABA
THE KING OF WHITE TRUFFLES UMBERTO BOMBANA 2017 WINNER OF THE DINERS CLUB® LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Umberto Bombana, the renowned Italian chef of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in Hong Kong, is the 2017 recipient of The Diners Club® Lifetime Achievement Award. Honoured for his ability to push the limits of traditional Italian cuisine, Bombana will be presented with his award at the fifth annual Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony on Tuesday, 21st February 2017, hosted at the W Hotel in Bangkok, Thailand. Part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards programme, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, The Diners Club® Lifetime Achievement Award is voted for by members of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, comprising over 300 leaders in the restaurant and culinary industries throughout Asia.
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UMBERTO BOMBABA
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BLACK TRUFFLE ‘’FASSONE’’
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FASSONE VEAL TENDERLOIN. CONFIT SALSIFY, MUSHROOM, AROMATIC CHEESE AND ALBA WHITE TRUFFLE
Chef Bombana will be hosting an exclusive celebration dinner on Monday, 13 February at his flagship 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, Landmark Alexandra in Hong Kong. The invitation event features eight courses of wondrous culinary creations including Confit Abalone Carpaccio, Burrata Cheese Ravioli, Challans Duck, and Black Truffle Gelato for dessert...
A native of Bergamo in Northern Italy, Bombana’s culinary talents took him around the world, eventually leading him to Hong Kong in 1993 where he was appointed Executive Chef at Toscana at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel. His creative flair and passion for refined Northern Italian cooking made Toscana an iconic destination on Hong Kong’s finedining scene. Showcasing his mastery of Italian cuisine and seasonal ingredients, he earned the title, ‘King of White Truffles’. During Bombana’s 15-year tenure at Toscana, he was named ‘Best Italian Chef in Asia’ in 2002 by the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF) and appointed Worldwide Ambassador of the White Truffle by the Piedmontese Regional Enoteca Cavour in Italy.
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UMBERTO BOMBABA
Following the 2008 closure of Toscana and The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Hong Kong, the Italian maestro launched 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana in 2010. Inspired by Italian film director Federico Fellini’s 1963 movie 8½, the restaurant pays homage to Bombana’s native cuisine, serving refined Italian food with the finest seasonal ingredients sourced from around the world. Otto e Mezzo Bombana debuted on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2013 at No.39 and ranked within the top 10 of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for three consecutive years. Since 2012, the restaurant has also boasted a coveted three-star ranking in the annual Michelin guide, the first and only Italian restaurant outside Italy to receive such a distinction.
CHALLANS DUCK
Extending his culinary influence in Asia, the popular chef launched 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana Shanghai in 2012 and Opera Bombana in Beijing a year later. In December 2013, he opened Hong Kong’s first refined Italian trattoria, CIAK – In The Kitchen, and has since expanded to a second outlet. More recently, he opened a further branch of Otto e Mezzo Bombana at Galaxy Macau. In accepting the honour, Chef Bombana said: “While I’m humbled by this prestigious award, I credit Asian diners for my success. Asian diners are sophisticated, international travellers who appreciate fine dining and continually motivate you to meet world-class standards. I feel very fortunate to have spent my career in Asia. Introducing Italian cuisine to Chinese guests taught me the importance of being progressive, dynamic and creative and shaped the way I work. This award inspires me to continue to share my love of Italian food with the rest of the world.”
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ROYAL LANGOUSTINE
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AMUSE BOUCHE MELANOSPORUM
CONFIT ABALONE CARPACCIO
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UMBERTO BOMBABA
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BLACK TRUFFLE GELATO
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ROASTED TASMANIAN CHERRY WITH HONEY GELATO
The giant of Italian cooking who has driven his native cuisine forward over 25 years in Asia...
William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, added: “Umberto Bombana’s artistic talents, sophisticated approach and uncompromising quality have made him one of Asia’s most respected chefs. A worthy recipient of this prestigious honour, Chef Bombana is an influential culinary figure in Asia who has earned international acclaim. He can be credited with introducing refined Italian cooking to the region and educating local diners on the traditions of his native cuisine.” “Diners Club congratulates Chef Bombana on his Lifetime Achievement Award and the positive influence he has had on the culinary world,” said Sheryl Yasger, vice president of global ad brand and marketing for Diners Club International. “We’re grateful to be part of these awards that honour truly innovative chefs creating world-class dining experiences.” WG February 2017 -
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MAY CHOW
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HONG KONG’S LITTLE BAO May Chow, chef and owner of Little Bao in Hong Kong and Bangkok, has been named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017. The prestigious award is part of the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants programme, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna. Chow will formally accept her award at the fifth annual Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards ceremony on 21st February, 2017 at the W Hotel in Bangkok, Thailand. Asia’s Best Female Chef Award is voted for by over 300 industry experts from across the region who also create the annual list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
MAY CHOW
Born in Canada, Chow spent her childhood in Hong Kong and the US. After graduating with a degree in hotel management from Boston University, she returned to Hong Kong in 2008 where she honed her culinary skills at such celebrated establishments as Bo Innovation and Yardbird, restaurants known for their innovative spin on Asian cuisines.
ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2017
Little Bao began as a pop-up concept before finding a permanent space in Hong Kong’s Soho district in 2013. Drawing influences from Chow’s Chinese heritage and American upbringing, Little Bao offers an original take on classic Chinese comfort foods. Along with the signature burger-style ‘bao’, or steamed buns, the menu includes Chinese-inspired Photo © Sun Sun Leung sharing plates. Adventurous, playful and creative, the restaurant reflects the chef’s personality and her ability to present familiar flavours in fresh, modern ways. Following the success of Little Bao Hong Kong, in July 2016 Chow opened a second outlet in Bangkok’s popular Thong Lor district. WG February 2017 -
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Continuing to influence Hong Kong’s dining scene, 2016 also saw the launch of Chow’s Second Draft, a ‘Chinese gastropub’. The cross-cultural dining concept celebrates Hong Kong’s street food culture while showcasing Chow’s creative take on traditional dishes. William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, says: “May Chow represents a new generation of Asian chef-restaurateurs. Young, energetic and creative, she brings a fresh perspective to traditional cuisine. Her passion, entrepreneurial spirit and commitment make her a worthy recipient of the 2017 Asia’s Best Female Chef Award.” Acknowledging the award, Chow notes: “I am very honoured to be named Asia’s Best Female Chef. I hope I can serve as a role model for other Asian female chefs, providing hope and opportunities for those who want to pursue their passions.” Internationally recognised for her talent, Chow has been a guest judge on MasterChef Asia and represented Hong Kong at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, Omnivore World Tour and Bordeaux Wine Festival.
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SZECHUAN FRIED CHICKEN
LB ICE CREAM BAO
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LINDSAY AUTRY
Lindsay Autry a beauty of flavors...
It’s a rare opportunity to enjoy the culinary creations of a chef as talented as Lindsay Autry. Her exceptional skills in the kitchen have earned her the reputation of one of America’s top chefs, and provided her the opportunity to work alongside some of the best in the world. A graduate of Johnson & Wales University, Chef Autry has held various chef positions at prominent restaurants along the East Coast and in Mexico and made headlines as a finalist on Bravo’s ninth season of “Top Chef.” As a native North Carolinian, Chef Autry describes her cuisine as soulful, embracing Mediterranean flavors with a blend of her southern roots. She honed her skill under James Beard Awardwinning chef Michelle Bernstein, starting at Azul in the Mandarin Oriental, Miami; later opening Bernstein’s first namesake restaurant, MB as Sous Chef in Cancun, Mexico; and finally as Executive Chef of Bernstein’s restaurant at the Omphoy Ocean Resort. Chef Autry then served as Executive Chef of the historic Sundy House in Delray Beach, Fla. and in September 2016 opened The Regional Kitchen & Public House as co-partner and founder alongside area restaurateur Thierry Beaud. Chef Autry’s, The Regional, serves cuisine that honors the traditional appeal of deep-rooted American foods, while celebrating the innovative approach of today’s progressive kitchens.
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PHOTO © SOUTH MOON PHOTOGRAPHY
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LINDSAY AUTRY
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WG Magazine spoke with Chef Autry about her success in the culinary field, her time spent working with Chef Bernstein and her current ingredient obsessions. It’s interesting how chefs find their passion for cooking. Tell us how you found your way into the culinary field. I grew up surrounded by food. My family had a peach orchard where we spent our summers selling peaches and homemade ice cream at a roadside stand. We preserved our summer harvest by canning and freezing all of the vegetables we grew and utilizing them throughout the year. I started participating in cooking competitions through 4-H when I was nine, and really fell in love with cooking. While attending Johnson & Wales University in Charleston and Miami, I worked in a variety of restaurants and hotels to gain experience. WG February 2017 -
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LINDSAY AUTRY
You honed your skills under James Beard Award-winning chef Michelle Bernstein. Can you tell us about your experience with Chef Bernstein and how it helped you become the chef you are today? I worked with Michelle on and off for about 12 years total. She gave me my first shot at being a Sous Chef when I was only 22 and we went to Mexico to open her first namesake restaurant, MB. She taught me not only how to be a great cook, but also how to lead people, stay organized, and balance being a woman in a professional kitchen. Your culinary creations are incredibly soulful, embracing Mediterranean flavors with a blend of southern roots. How do you bring about such balance on a plate? I am inspired by the memories of my family’s cooking growing up. My grandmother is Greek and we always had a mix of AmericanizedGreek foods served amongst the southern staples my grandfather loved. We always had both spanakopita and biscuits on Sundays. As I have gotten older, I have leaned back on those roots, which is where I find my voice in cooking. Describe your culinary philosophy. What is the process you go through when creating a new dish? I love to create menus and dishes that tell a story. We spend a lot of time sourcing ingredients, getting to know our farmers, artisans, and purveyors and sharing those relationships with our staff so that everyone has an appreciation for our food from the very root of it. We are focusing on regionally-sourced, conscious ingredients, and even reaching into other regions to get the best seasonal, quality products.
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PHOTO © LILA PHOTO
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GELÉE DE POIVRONS AU SAFRAN PHOTO ©JACQUES GAVARD
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Let’s talk ingredient obsessions. What new ingredients are inspiring you right now? Florida’s growing season is the opposite time of year than most of the United States. We have such an abundance of beautiful produce during the late fall and winter. Seminole pumpkins from Green Cay Farms are one of my favorite ingredients right now. What about your tried and true, favorite ingredients? I love to work with ingredients that are in season and at their peak. A just-picked tomato is one of my absolute favorite things, which is why you’ll see a lot of them on our menus. Great olive oil and flaky sea salt are also always around. We know that ingredients are incredibly important, but what about the cooking equipment? The grill. I love to grill, especially vegetables like hearty greens and broccoli. WG February 2017 -
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Produce, creativity or technique -which is more important to you as a chef? I feel that the true way to success is a combination of all three, but for me, it always stems from the product. Once we have chosen a product based on its seasonality and freshness, we apply a specific technique that will focus on improving the product to show its integrity, as opposed to showing our talent. Creativity is definitely important; ultimately it’s what makes the dish shine once composed, but it always stems from the product for us. What keeps you motivated? Teaching the next generation of chefs and building a strong team is what motivates me on a daily basis. I enjoy working with a group of passionate individuals committed to the same goal of providing memorable experiences for our guests. What advice would you give to new chefs entering the culinary field? My advice is to know coming in to this profession that it is truly a labor of love. There are some glamorous sides to the profession, but to achieve that level you must first learn the basics, humble your experiences, and know that most days are filled with fixing an oven, unclogging a drain, and a million other things that sometimes get in the way of cooking.
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OSCAR BARRERA MARENGO
OSCAR BARRERA MARENGO THE WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS TASTEMAKER FOOD IMAGES Photo © Paula Zuvic
Oscar’s young career has been kind of a rollercoaster. Born in Viña del Mar, Chile and raised within a strong influential Italian family. Food was always his way of social interface. With a profound interest in basic science, Oscar decided to pursue a career in medicine making it to Chile’s top ranked university. While in his 4th undergraduate year, Barrera went with his mother to Japan for holidays. The rising sun’s respect for product, mouth-watering dishes and edgy, taste defiant cuisine was the spark needed to ignite his sustained passion for cooking. From then on, Oscar continued his medicine career while being a self-taught cook. The drive was strong enough to get him to participate on MasterChef Chile competition making it to the last stages. He was known for being the most avant-garde, high cuisine styled contestant.
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Photo © Alexis Yañezng
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OSCAR BARRERA MARENGO
PINE SMOKED MACKEREL, GREENS
AMARANT & CARROT CURRY, SPICY BLUEBERRY SAUCE
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE & OXALIS TART
SLOW GHEE POACHED SHRIM, PARSLEY CREAM
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CINNAMON GLAZED SQUASH, CARDAMOM CREME
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WILD BOAR, HONEY AND ITS POLLEN
CHORRILLANA
Oscar determined cooking was not only his true passion, but then it would become his profession. He began publishing recipes for magazines and giving lessons on food styling while finishing his medical residency. By the middle of 2015 he participated on a global food contest organized by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants organization, and was selected as one of the winners. The opportunity to assist the Latin America’s 50 Award Ceremony opened doors to meet the most influential people in the business. He was the invited to work as a “Tastemaker” creating media content for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Oscar’s major aim has always been to use this platform to show Chile to the world. He defines his cooking style as seasonal, full of challenging flavors and always with a sense of elegance even if the product is not so. Enthusiastic with his country, his will is to empower Chilean products and to show them all over the world. One of the aspects Barrera cares most about is the aesthetics. “Food first hits you in the eyes and nose, not the palate.” Because of his medical background, Oscar wishes to further investigate the process of eating, considering endocrinology, psychiatry and neurology, and apply it to his dreamed restaurant. With a doctors degree, Oscar is about to begin his Professional Culinary Arts program at the International Culinary Center in New York. His culinary creations are frequently seen on Instagram @ oscarbarreramarengo and Oscar will be bringing the taste of Chile to WG readers with his regular features from March 2017!
COW HEART, CELERY ROOT, BERRIES
GUANACO HAM, CRAB, PRICKLY PEAR, PISCO
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LIDIA AND JOE BASTIANICH
LIDIA & JOE BASTIANICH ambassadors of Italian food and wine culture Text Laura Pedrazzoli
Lidia Bastianich is an Emmy award winning public television host, a best selling cookbook author, restaurateur, and owner of a flourishing food and entertainment business. She immigrated to the United States at the age of twelve from Trieste, Italy, and in 1971 she opened her first Italian restaurant in Queens, New York. After a decade of success, Lidia created Felidia Ristorante on East 58th Street in Manhattan and she soon became the chef/owner of acclaimed New York City restaurants, Felidia, Becco, Esca and Del Posto, as well as Lidia’s Pittsburgh and Lidia’s Kansas City along with her daughter Tanya.
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LIDIA AND JOE BASTIANICH
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With 2 James Beard Foundation awards, 5 cookbooks, 4 cooking series on public television, she is considered the ambassador of Italian food and wine culture in the United States. Lidia has married her two passions in life – her family and food, to create multiple culinary endeavors alongside her two children, Tanya and Joseph who, from the time he was a boy, was raised on the culinary traditons of Italy and was steeped in the rudiments of the restaurant business. After graduating from college Joe went to work in the Finance sector on Wall Street, but after only a year he understood that his passion laid elsewhere: In the world of food and wine. He bought a oneway ticket to Italy, and for a year explored the wine and food culture in a beat-up Fiat Croma, working in restaurants, vineyards and wineries, digging himself deeper into his rich heritage. Upon returning to New York, he partnered with his mother Lidia to open Becco Restaurant. Soon after Joe became partners with the irrepressible Mario Batali, becoming the less-publicly-vociferous but equally important power behind some of New Yorks best restaurants, including the legendary Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca, and the much storied Del Posto. WG February 2017 -
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LIDIA AND JOE BASTIANICH
a compulsive entrepreneur Father, restaurateur, author, musician and marathoner, Joe is also a successful TV personality: fom 2010 to 2014, he was a judge on MasterChef USA with Gordon Ramsay and Graham Elliot, and in 2011 for the Italian version of MasterChef with Carlo Cracco and Bruno Barbieri, later joined by Antonio Cannavacciuolo. In 2011, in collaboration with Oscar Farinetti, Lidia and Joe brought to NY and later to Chicago, Eataly: The largest artisanal Italian food and wine marketplace in the world. The team has recently opened an impressive Eataly shop in Trieste, in the eastern corner of Italy, a kind of going back to their roots for the Bastianich family. Wine is an integral part of Joe and Lidia Bastianich’s complex lifes. Joe recognized the potential in the rolling hills of Friui Venezia Giulia two decades ago, and he is convinced the white wines from this region can compete with the best in the world. After finding the perfect property in 1997, he set about creating world-class wines from this promising region. “I bought the vineyards int 1997 when my daughter, Olivia, was born,” says Joe talking about the winery ,“it was a leap of faith. My family didn’t have traditional winemaking roots, I wasn’t formally schooled in viticulture, but it was a labor of love for me and my family, after all the pilgrimages made in Italy to the best producers. It was a leap into the future. I wanted my children to have something that belonged to them in Italy and to eventually call home: that house, that little city – Cividale del Friuli – and those people.” The wines of the Bastianich winery reflect the traditions of the territory through hard work in the vineyards and in the winery, but at the same time shows the unique personality of the Bastianich family.
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LIDIA AND JOE BASTIANICH
The “cru” wines of the estate – Vespa bianco, Vespa Rosso Plus and Calabrone – are born in the historic terraced vineyards in the Friuli Colli Orientali DOC area near Buttrio, where the vineyards have a perfect position between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea. The monovarietal wines of the Vini Orsone line, Friulano, Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, Sauvignon Chardonnay Refosco and Schioppettino, are made from vineyards in cooler zones and younger vines for greater freshness and lively acidity. All out wines are grown upon the classic calcareous marl (locally called “ponca”) of the greatest hillside regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia. The summer of 2013 saw the birth of a new and important venture for the Bastianich family. For the first time they opened a restaurant in Europe with Orsone Ristorante e B&B, located alongside the vineyards of the Bastianich winery in Friuli Colli Orientali. Realizing the dream of family hospitality, the Orsone B&B, with five rooms equipped with every comfort, offers an ideal base to explore this corner of eastern Friuli (as well as nearby Slovenia) rich with history, culture and traditions. The other jewel in the “Bastianich Universe” is the Tuscan winery La Mozza in the Maremma. Alongside the typical expression of Southern Tuscany in the I Perazzi Morellino di Scansano DOCG, there is the “super-Mediterranean” blend called Aragone that focuses on the varietes of the Mediterranean such as Syrah, Alicante and Carignan.
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VIRGINIA PHILIP
Master Sommelier Master Sommelier Virginia Philip’s career includes a list of recognition, spanning more than a decade. In 2002, Philip became the 11th woman in the world to earn the extraordinary accreditation of Master Sommelier, the highest certification of international proficiency. Today there are only 26 women out of 206 professionals worldwide.
VIRGINIA PHILIP
Philip’s has won the title of “Best Sommelier of the United States” from the American Sommelier Association and sat on the Board of Directors for the Court of Master Sommeliers. In 2012, the James Beard Foundation nominated Philip for “Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional”, and in 2015 she was bestowed with one of the highest honors, an “Honorary Doctorate Degree of Oenology” from her alma mater Johnson & Wales University. As Master Sommelier for The Breakers Palm Beach, Philip leads the beverage department for nine restaurants and bars. In addition, working in tandem with the Domaine du Tariquet wine making team in Gascony, France, Philip creates The Breaker’s house wine blend. Philip is knowledgeable, yet approachable, current and well-connected to the industry. Emphasizing these traits, Philip fulfilled a lifetime dream when she opened the Virginia Philip Wine Shop & Academy in the heart of downtown West Palm Beach. With approximately 600 personally-selected offerings, the boutique shop offers an outlet for her to share her extensive knowledge and generous demeanor to guests. The Academy also satisfies Philip’s passion for teaching, and provides a space where she offers weekly wine education programs and guest appearances from national and international winemakers.
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VIRGINIA PHILIP
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Philip’s expertise is called upon in a variety of judging competitions, including the Decanter World Wine Awards in London, The American Fine Wine Competition and the Dallas Morning News World Wine Competition. Philip has brought notoriety and attention to the outlets she supports with appearances on the “TODAY Show” and shows on the Food Network, along with receiving recognition in Food & Wine, Town & Country, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Country Living and Decanter Magazine. WG Magazine spoke with Master Sommelier Philip about her love for wine and how she uncovers the perfect wine pairing. Tell us how you earned this extraordinary accreditation of being named the 11th woman in the world to earn the title Master Sommelier. My father was Italian. We grew up tasting small sips of wine for all major holidays and Sunday meals. Tasting was normal – not just a benefit of turning 21. I never liked the taste of beer and gravitated towards wine. At Johnson & Wales, where I went to college, I took a wine course for credit. I was hooked and I knew I loved the subject so much that I would figure out a way to make it my career. When I turned 21, I worked part time in a New York state winery pruning the vines and driving the tractor during summer vacation. Once I moved to Aspen, I started working in a wine shop. I knew that one day I would own my own store. I was always managing a restaurant while writing and taking care of the wine program. I finally got so tired of managing employees, writing schedules and the behind the scenes drama that goes along with restaurants, I left to go work in retail again. I had previously taken a wine class program through the American Sommelier Society and passed that exam in 1998. Andrew Bell and Roger Dagorn M.S. sat me down and told me to pursue becoming a Master Sommelier. A year later, I became the buyer for 36 wine stores. We sold everything from Mad Dog 20/20 to Blue Chip Bordeaux, Burgundy and Cult California wines. When my twin sister decided to get married at The Breakers in Palm Beach, I made the decision to interview for a wine position. I started as the head sommelier in November of 2000. WG February 2017 -
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VIRGINIA PHILIP
Through hours of serious studying and tasting, I passed the Master Sommelier Diploma Examination in London in 2002 on my second attempt. I became the 11th woman in the world to do so. I was so thrilled. Three weeks later, I competed against one other woman and 30 men to win the title of “Best Sommelier in the United States.� In 2003, I was promoted to Wine Director of The Breakers and am still a consultant. Tell us about your training and how it has helped you as a Master Sommelier today. The best sommeliers are those that can combine their level of knowledge, tasting, and financials so that they have the ability to run their own restaurant wine program. You may have the best palate in the world, or have the most trivia on memory, but at the end of the day, if you cannot make your budget and keep your costs in line, you will not go far in this industry. You must also be able to read the guest and make selections based upon what your clientele is looking for - not the most esoteric wines that are trending. Trends are important too, but pleasing the guest and making them comfortable and happy, is the ultimate goal. I am in a unique situation. I own my retail store and buy for a very large property. I can see the buying scenarios from several different angles. The amount of skill required to be a Master Sommelier can be quite challenging at times. How do you properly pair food and wine, so it yields the perfect combination? Pairing takes practice and experience. It also requires an excellent and respectful relationship with the chef and his team. One must understand the flavor of food, the sauces and the dishes. You must also have a very strong understanding of wines, different grape varietals and how acid, oak, texture and tannin work either with, or against dishes. Having a natural flair is always a bonus, but I do believe that with patience and experience, you can learn.
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VIRGINIA PHILIP
It is very important to pair the perfect glass of wine with your food. How do you believe that a proper pairing can make or break a meal? One reason why the chefs with whom I’ve worked with in the past always respected me was because I never tried to change their dishes. It is their “work of art” or creation. Not every guest is going to drink wine with that dish. They may just want water or a beer. However, if they do decide to drink wine, the pairing must accentuate and elevate both the food and wine in a manner that neither could achieve on its own.
I appreciate and enjoy wines from everywhere in the world...
When a dish becomes tricky to pair, I always start with the sauce. Does the wine work with the sauce? If it does not, I change the wine. If the wine does work with the sauce, I begin to taste the wine individually with every other component of the dish. When I find a component that is messing up that pairing, I will ask the chef if he can either take that ingredient out or make a substitution. You can absolutely break a dish with the wrong pairing. Appearance, aroma, bouquet, taste, aftertaste and overall impression are some of the factors considered for a good wine. Take us through the process of how wine competitions are judged. Color – is the wine hazy, cloudy? For example, if it is a Cabernet Sauvignon, is the intensity of color dark? We look at the color from two angles, hue and core. For the nose, we are looking to smell if the wine is intense, oaky, mineral, earth, or fruits. On the palate, we confirm the above, but also look at the structure of the wine. Acid, alcohol, length and tannin are all factors that are considered. All the components must be balanced.
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VIRGINIA PHILIP
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What exactly does it take to be a Master Sommelier at The Breakers? Dedication, perseverance and the ability to believe in oneself are traits you must have. Decide and understand that it is your journey and no one else’s. If you constantly try to compare your success or failures to someone else, you might not make it. Watching TV, family time and any other activities not related to wine are probably not going to be a part of your life for a long time. Exercise, meditation and commitment from your spouse or significant other is a must. You will fail without the support of your family. Above all else, you must love to drink wine and spirits and truly appreciate working in a restaurant. I tasted wine so much at the end to pass my Diploma exam, I had a love and hate affair with wine. I could never sit down and simply drink a glass for the sheer enjoyment of it. I had to analyze it from so many different angles. It was like being on automatic pilot – acid, oak, texture, weight, complexity, fruit, alcohol swirl around in your head as you try to make sense of the wine. It took me several years to let that part go. I still do it at times, but only when I am trying to figure the wine out‌or if I am judging a wine competition. Your passion and expertise for wine continues to evolve. Tell us what motivates you. I still love the subject so much! It is so vast, complex and changing that the challenge is still there every day. Mentoring my team and others not only makes my day, but motivates me. Pleasing guests is also a huge thank you for what we do. The relationships you create with chefs, winemakers, winery owners, sommeliers, and customers, all for the love of wine, are so strong and lasting that it makes the effort that much more worthwhile. Wine creates an ever-lasting bond between us. WG February 2017 -
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MICHELE MOSCHIONI
MICHELE MOSCHIONI RED WHAT A PASSION!
Text Laura Pedrazzoli
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MICHELE MOSCHIONI
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Moschioni is a family owned winery settled in Friuli, the famous wine region in the northeast corner of Italy. 13 hectares of rolling hills facing South-East at an altitude of 150 meters above sea level in the heart of DOC Friuli Colli Orientali, near Cividale del Friuli. The vineyards position is special, thanks to the sheltering Julian Alps to the north and the temperature-moderating Adriatic Sea to the South. The soil is unique: a marl known as ponca, a clay rich in limestone and sandstone. The estate was born in the early 1900, but the pivotal year was 1989, when Michele took over the reins of the winery from his father and decided to stake everything on the production of red wines in an area where almost exclusively white wines are produced. He had a very clear philosophy in mind: to valorize native vines, almost forgotten, such as Pignolo, Schioppettino, Refosco and Tazzelenghe: notso-well-known native vines, difficult to grow, but historical and able to create unique wines. Michele, a man with an upright character, works in harmony with nature, wthout bias, everything has to be as natural as possible. He makes use of organic farming in the vineyard, with very low yelds (approximately 1 kg of grapes per vinestock). The harvest is late and the grapes are hand-picked. In the cellar traditional methods are used, with no addition of yeasts, no additives, no filtration. It takes at least 4 years to put his wines on the market! In the good years Michele Moschioni produces the great Cru, such as Refosco, Pignolo and Schioppettino. In difficult years, like for example 2010 and 2014, the Cru are “declassed� and blended in the greatly appreciated Bisest and Rosso. Passion, steely determination and exasperated care of the various processes led Michele to produce stunning, powerful, elegant red wines and conquer in a short time the favors of a wider audience of connoisseurs and prestigious awards from national and foreign criticism. Michele’s wines reflect his character, they are sincere and genuine, with a long, bright future ahead. WG February 2017 -
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JOSE MENDIN
The Pubbelly Restaurant Group’s Founding Partner and Chef, Jose Mendin, was born into heavy food culture - the child of “food enthusiast” parents and a great-grandmother who was a cooking instructor. Though it wasn’t until Mendin went off to college and needed to prepare his own meals that he realized his adoration was not just for food, but also cooking. “My mom was master of her domain and so she never let us cook at home,” explains Mendin. “It was only when I lived on my own that I started to cook. The reaction I received from people enjoying my food was so gratifying that I was immediately hooked.”
Jose Mendin
Losing a collegiate volleyball scholarship could be disappointing for some, but for Mendin it was life changing; it afforded him the opportunity leave his home in Puerto Rico and pursue something new. He enrolled in cooking school at Johnson & Wales University and moved to Miami. Mendin’s passion for food and learning has carried him gracefully into a successful career. He was part of the opening team of Nobu Miami and later Nobu London in Hyde Park and used these foundational Asian influences to parlay the opportunity into a job as Chef de Cuisine of SUSHISAMBA Miami Beach (2004). Under his direction, the SUSHISAMBA brand flourished and within two years Mendin was appointed to Assistant Corporate Chef where he was responsible for overseeing all of their stateside locations including opening SUSHISAMBA Las Vegas (2008) at the Palazzo to award-winning notoriety.
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JOSE MENDIN
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While recognizable US-concepts like Mosaico which he opened alongside celebrated La Broche chef, Gonzalo Juardo - adorn Mendin’s resume, his pursuit to learn in an international kitchen was probably what he finds most influential in his culinary training. Stages in Spain, working under chefs like Jesus Ramiro and Juan Pablo Felipe, were creative processes that forced him out of his comfort zone and later played a role in the menu development at Mercadito, as opening chef of their Chicago and Miami outposts. While in Spain, he worked in Michelin-starred restaurants; cooked for the prince of Spain; and learned how to revitalize ancient recipes maintaining the integrity of a dish’s roots, while infusing it with the slightest modern touches. Today, Mendin is a hometown hero both in Miami and San Juan. Making both his cities proud, he – alongside his business partners Andreas Schreiner and Sergio Navarro – has taken numerous culinary concepts to critical acclaim (Pubbelly, Pubbelly Sushi, Barceloneta, Macchialina, PB Steak, L’echon Brasserie). He has been a recognized semi-finalist of the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef South” for five consecutive years (2011-2015) and has received national acknowledgements from Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Departures and The Cooking Channel among many others. The brands growing group empire continues to expand with the launch of Food Republic, aboard Norwegian Cruise Line’s Escape (November 2015); Pubbelly Sushi in Casa de Campo, Dominican Republic, which marked their first international expansion (December 2015); and their first concept in Miami’s mainland, PB Station, a New American eatery that is complemented by their first ever venture into spirits with a breath-taking rooftop bar, Pawn Broker (April 2016). RAMEN
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JOSE MENDIN
Mendin recently launched a digital cookbook “Food Republic by Jose Mendin” and will open will Pubbelly Sushi in Brickell City Centre and Pubbelly Ysla later this year. WG Magazine caught with Chef Mendin to talk about his growing culinary empire both in Miami, at sea and abroad. Tell us how you found your way into the culinary field to become one of today’s most sought-after chefs. I grew up in Puerto Rico. My mother and father have always been foodies and culinary adventurers but I only really discovered my passion for cooking when I left home to attend college and started cooking for myself and my roommates. I loved seeing their reaction whenever I prepared a meal they loved. I decided to get a job in a restaurant and found that I loved cooking for people and the whole experience of working in a kitchen. Your cuisine ranges from Asian-inspired to American-classic, tell us how you bring about this balance on a plate. Cooking is all about flavor. Growing up in Puerto Rico we are accustomed to the use of bold flavors, which for me are associated with creating memories. I use this approach in all my restaurants. I try to create a sensory experience for my diners that draw on both flavor and emotion. Tell us about what it was like working at some of the finest cooking establishments ranging from Nobu in Miami to La Broche in Spain. Each restaurant has helped lay the foundation for, and refine my approach to cooking. I’ve carried so much of what I’ve learned into my kitchens to help shape my menus today. At SUSHISAMBA and Nobu, I learned how to properly use Asian ingredients while in Spain, I mastered European techniques. Describe your culinary philosophy. My philosophy is that food needs to be extremely delicious and if it’s not, then I am not doing my job as chef. Apart from that, my cooking is a reflection of my upbringing and teaching. I use a lot of Asian ingredients in my recipes, while applying European techniques to the methodology, all while having a bold palate as a result of my Puerto Rican background.
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JOSE MENDIN
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SALMON TARTARE TAQUITO
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MOFONGO
What ingredients inspire you and how do you get your inspiration for utilizing these ingredients in your dishes? Miami is not a huge seasonal city in terms of ingredients, so I like to keep up with other cities/ states to see what’s in season and growing in and around the country. Locally we do our part to keep in touch with local farmers and always aim to support them whenever possible. Right now in Miami we have just started our stone crab season, so you will notice their inclusion on our menus. In addition to this, we are bringing in fresh fall mushrooms from Oregon as well and squash in from Ohio. I like to work with most all ingredients. It is always a challenge to push yourself out of the box and use what you’re not as practiced in using to make it taste delicious. An ingredient that I rarely ever use is artichokes. Its flavor profile goes against what I do, which is nice way of saying I don’t like it.” What special kitchen or cooking equipment do you enjoy using most? I love cooking sous vide. I think it’s a great way to cook protein evenly. If you had to caption your approach as a chef would you says it is more focused on the produce you use, the creative process by which you utilize it or the technique in which it is manipulated? If you want to make something special it definitely is a combination of all of the above. You will not be able to make something memorable if you are missing any of these components, they all play and important and essential role in crafting the perfect balance of a dish. WG February 2017 -
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JOSE MENDIN
TRIPLETA
Tell us about the digital cookbook Food Republic by Jose Mendin that you recently launched. I created the book to provide people with easy recipes that they can be made in their home. While I always love to see people in the restaurant it is equally as rewarding to know that I can achieve the same level of happiness in someone’s home through my recipes. My book is available for download on iTunes via the Colors & Flavors app. What would you say motivates you? Working with a team there is no shortage of motivation. The goal is always to bring people together and make sure our guests leave having experienced the restaurant in the most memorable way possible – through taste and emotion. I’m always motivated to push myself to keep learning about what is new and improving my techniques in hopes that I can inspire younger chefs that I mentor. It’s a great way to pay homage to all the mentors who gave their time to me in my early days. What is your one piece of advice to chefs entering the kitchen for the first time? Glamour is not what anyone starting this profession will encounter. This is a very competitive field, in which only the cooks that love what they do and are willing to put the time and effort, will make it. I have been doing it for more than 20 years and not one day has been easy, but if you love it, then it’s worth it.
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DOMESTIC BURRATA
SASHIMI
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KIM DAE-CHUN, TOCTOC
KIM DAE-CHUN TocToc in Seoul is the recipient of the coveted Miele One To Watch Award 2017. Selected by the organisers of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, in collaboration with its regional experts, the Miele One To Watch Award is presented to a restaurant that is outside the Asia’s 50 Best list but is identified as the rising star of the region. TocToc’s owner-chef Kim Dae-chun will formally accept the honour at the fifth annual Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna, on 21st February 2017, hosted at the W Hotel in Bangkok, Thailand.
TOCTOC ‘MIELE ONE TO WATCH’ BY ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS
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A former drummer, Kim Dae-chun moved to Japan to pursue his musical ambitions. While there, he discovered his love of cooking and enrolled in a Tokyo culinary school. Returning to Korea in 2008, Kim honed his skills in Seoul restaurants, expanding his knowledge of French, Italian and Japanese cuisines as well as front-of-house operations. Gathering influences and inspiration on his culinary journey, these experiences helped crystallize his vision for TocToc. Located in Apgujeong, Seoul, TocToc (French for ‘knock knock’) opened in April 2013 and quickly earned acclaim for its modern, Frenchinspired menu and emphasis on seasonal Korean ingredients. TocToc’s casual ambience and caféstyle interiors belie the restaurant’s sophisticated approach to gastronomy. While Korean seafood takes centre stage, Chef Kim’s technical skills are also on display with impeccable presentation and refined flavour combinations.
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KIM DAE-CHUN, TOCTOC
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In accepting the award, Kim Dae-chun said: “I am honoured that we have been presented with this prestigious accolade. The Miele One To Watch Award recognises our culinary achievements, and encourages us to work harder to earn a position on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.” William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, says: “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants identifies and champions new talent and the Miele One To Watch Award reflects this ethos. In recent years, Chef Kim Dae-chun has made a significant impact on Seoul’s dining scene, impressing diners with his creative dishes and quality local ingredients. Given the team’s commitment to excellence and success to date, TocToc has the potential to rise in the rankings and enter Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list.” Previous One To Watch winners include Jaan in Singapore, Tenku Ryugin in Hong Kong, La Yeon in Seoul and last year’s recipient, Florilège in Tokyo. “We congratulate Chef Kim Dae-chun for his innovative creations.” said Mario Miranda, Regional Managing Director ASIA of Miele. “Innovation is at the heart of our credo of Forever Better. This award recognises an exceptional chef that constantly evolves and creates great fine dining experiences. This is also at the heart of the Miele brand and the creation of our kitchen appliances.” WG February 2017 -
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MARC MURPHY
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PHOTO © CEDRIC ANGELES
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Marc Murphy Ask Chef Marc Murphy where he grew up and he’ll fire off a list of cosmopolitan destinations — Milan, Paris, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Washington, D.C., Rome and Genoa — “and that’s before I turned 12,” he’ll explain. This dizzying list of hometowns served as an excellent education in French and Italian cuisine, though as a teenager this was not his first passion. When the reality hit that he didn’t have the funds to become a professional race car driver, Murphy followed his brother to the Institute of Culinary Education. Following graduation, he apprenticed at restaurants in France and Italy before returning to New York where he landed a job as a line cook at Terrance Brennan’s Prix Fixe. He stayed there for almost two years, working his way through every station in the kitchen and forging a professional bond with Brennan’s Sous Chefs Joseph Fortunato and David Pasternak. Eager to return to Europe, Murphy flew to Paris and landed a position at the one-star Le Miraville, where he stayed for one and a half years. Afterwards, he staged at the famed Louis XV in Monte Carlo, where Executive Chef Alain Ducasse was so impressed with Murphy’s skills that he personally made arrangements for him to work with Sylvain Portay at Le Cirque once he returned to the States. Murphy still considers Portay to be his greatest teacher. “Sylvain was above all concerned with coaxing out the most vibrant, interesting flavors any ingredient had to offer, yet he insisted on minimal manipulation,” he recalls. Following Le Cirque, Fortunato tapped him to work as a Sous Chef at Layla, Drew Nieporent’s Middle Eastern fantasy in TriBeCa, where he met consultant Georges Masraff. When Masraff joined forces to open Cellar in the Sky at Windows on the World, he recruited Murphy to serve as Executive Chef. After receiving critical acclaim, including a two-star review from the New York Times, Murphy headed uptown to serve as Executive Chef of La Fourchette where the Times’ critic Ruth Reichl awarded him another glowing two-star review, citing his “open desire to transform food [so that] in his hands, even a simple green salad ... Looks like a ruffled hat in a painting by Renoir.” WG February 2017 -
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PORK CHOP FROM LANDMARC PHOTO © LANDMARC
In March 2004, Murphy opened his first solo enterprise with Landmarc in Tribeca, which won rave reviews both for its eclectic French and Italian menu as well as its highly untraditional wine list. Following its success, Murphy opened Ditch Plains in the West Village in 2006 serving casual, beachstyle cuisine. In 2007, Murphy was given the opportunity to open another Landmarc restaurant in the prestigious Time Warner Center where he brought his bistro-style cuisine to Midtown. In October 2013, Murphy opened Kingside at the Viceroy New York hotel serving his interpretation of New American cuisine and in fall 2015, Murphy opened a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant at the Seminole Hard Rock Hotel & Casino in Tampa, Florida. Murphy’s restaurants now fall under the Benchmarc Restaurants by Marc Murphy name, where he acts as Executive Chef and Owner. In addition to the restaurants, Murphy also heads up the company’s catering division, Benchmarc Events by Marc Murphy, where his signature style of accessible contemporary cuisine transcends the boundaries of what is offered in his restaurant locations.
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SPAGHETTI ALLA CARBONARA FROM SEASON WITH AUTHORITY COOKBOOK PHOTO © CEDRIC ANGELES
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BEER CAN CHICKEN FROM SEASON WITH AUTHORITY COOKBOOK PHOTO © CEDRIC ANGELES
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Today, Murphy’s involvement in the industry moves beyond the restaurants, with a regular role as a judge on The Food Network’s highest rated hit, “Chopped” and “Chopped Junior” as well as appearances on “Chopped After Hours”, “Iron Chef America”, “Guy’s Grocery Games”, “Beat Bobby Flay”, “Worst Cooks In America”, “The Kitchen”, “Unique Eats”, “The Best Thing I Ever Made”, “The Rachael Ray Show”, “The Chew”, “Good Morning America”, “The Today Show” and HSN, among others. He is the president of the Manhattan chapter of the New York State Restaurant Association, both a board member and Food Council member of City Harvest, and a member of the Food + Finance High School’s Industry Advisory Board. Marc sits on the Leadership Council for Share our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign and has been a national spokesperson for Share Our Strength’s Dine Out For No Kid Hungry initiative. In 2012, Marc joined the U.S. Department of State’s Diplomatic Culinary Partnership, where he takes part in public diplomacy programs that engage foreign audiences abroad as well as those visiting the United States. He has travelled to Italy, China and Turkey as part of this program thus far.
DITCH DOG FROM DITCH PLAINS PHOTO © DITCH PLAINS
Marc is the author of “Season with Authority: Confident Home Cooking”, his debut cookbook that was released in April 2015 and continues to be a top seller. WG February 2017 -
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WG Magazine sat down with Chef Murphy to talk about his early food memories, seasonal inspirations and experiences with Alain Ducasse and Sylvain Portay. It’s interesting how chefs find their passion for cooking. Tell us how you found your way into the culinary world.
PHOTO © CEDRIC ANGELES
I was fortunate to live in Europe at a young age; my father was an American diplomat and my Grandmother was French, so my palate was exposed to delicious French and Italian cuisine. My grandfather would always take me out for a steak tartare at the neighborhood restaurant in the South of France and ratatouille was my grandmother’s specialty. Those early food memories really sparked my interest in cooking.
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LAMB CHOPS SCOTTADITTO FROM SEASON WITH AUTHORITY COOKBOOK PHOTO © CEDRIC ANGELES
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ROASTED OYSTERS FROM DITCH PLAINS PHOTO © DITCH PLAINS
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Let’s go back to when you worked at Le Miraville and then later with Alain Ducasse at Louis XV. Can you tell us about these experiences with Alain Ducasse and how they helped you become the chef you are today? It was still early in my career so it was truly a valuable and interesting experience to work under him and to see what is was really like in a 3-star Michelin kitchen. As a young cook, experiencing different styles and kitchens is extremely beneficial and it helped me know what kind of restaurant I eventually wanted to have and operate. Your contemporary cuisine transcends many boundaries. How do you bring about such balance on a plate? I love to let the ingredients speak for themselves and let natural flavors shine. The less fuss the better.
HOUSEMADE RICOTTA CAVATELLI WITH CHICKEN LIVER, CARAMELIZED ONION AND BACON FROM LANDMARC PHOTO © LANDMARC
Working at Le Cirque, you considered Sylvain Portay as your greatest teacher. Can you tell us a little about this experience? I remember vividly what he said to me once, “If you serve the hot food hot, cold food cold and its seasoned correctly, you’re probably doing it better than most people in other restaurants.” What inspires you to create new dishes? The seasons inspire me, as does the produce available. I like simple, approachable ingredients just seasoned really well. WG February 2017 -
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Let’s talk ingredients. What new ingredient or ingredients are you in love with right now? They’re not new, but I’m loving root vegetables and using every part of the vegetable. Like carrots, don’t throw away the tops they have such good flavor! You can also never go wrong with a great, extra virgin olive oil. It’s the very start of so many great dishes. We know that ingredients are incredibly important, but what about the cooking equipment? Do you have any special cooking equipment that you love to use? I’ve been using the Caja China recently. It’s great for whole pigs and fish, and the flavor you get is unbelievable. Produce, creativity or technique, which is more important to you as a chef? Produce, because it all starts with great ingredients. Your first cookbook, “Season with Authority: Confident Home Cooking”, came out last year. What was your inspiration while writing this book? It’s my first cookbook, so getting some of my favorite recipes down on paper and sharing them with the world was something that was really special. I was inspired to share the recipes and have people actually cook out of the book. I want this book to get dirty and used in the kitchen. What keeps you motivated at this point in your career? I genuinely love what I do. The fact that I get to feed people and make people happy over a great meal means the world to me. Some of my best memories have been over a meal with friends or family. What advice would you give to new chefs entering the culinary field? My advice is work in a restaurant or a kitchen before committing to culinary school. You have to love the environment of a restaurant or it just won’t work.
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DESSERT BOARD FROM LANDMARC PHOTO © LANDMARC
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THE ARTISAN BY ENOTECA PINCHIORRI
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A Redefined Dining Experience This Valentine’s Day Treat your loved one to an elegant dinner at The Artisan, and revel in a romantic atmosphere, graceful tablescape, and exclusive appetizing entrées this Valentine’s Day. The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri has masterfully created three special dishes… Citrus flavoured yellowtail tartar with pearl barley, yellow tomato coulis and sweet & sour red onion Homemade “spaghetti alla chitarra” with langoustine, artichockes and fresh marjoram Flute of strawberry, white chocolate and mascarpone cheese Enoteca Pinchiorri is more than a restaurant, it’s an institution of gourmet excellence, a destination for all discerning food, wine and ambiance lovers. The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri has a rich culinary history, it is a sensational awakening characterized by delectable dishes, an exhaustive wine selection, elegant interiors and friendly service.
THE ARTISAN BY ENOTECA PINCHIORRI
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Celebrate Love at Grand Hyatt Goa This Valentine’s Day, Grand Hyatt Goa is giving you an array of romantic dining and spa options to celebrate this day of love. Head over to the magnificent resort and take a pick from a selection of Valentine’s specials crafted for this day of love. VALENTINE’S DAY DINNER AT THE DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Goa’s spectacular all-Wday dining restaurant, The Dining Room will roll out a lavish buffet featuring authentic Asian, Indian, Italian and Middle Eastern cuisine, in a tranquil and contemporary setting. Indulge in a romantic evening with a picturesque setting and enjoy the meal accompanied by a bottle of bubbly and little surprises. VALENTINE’S DAY DINNER AT THE VERANDAH The Verandah at Grand Hyatt Goa has plans of taking you and your Valentine on a gastronomical journey with a balance of flavors and culinary excellence to make it a perfect night for you to remember. The resort’s culinary experts have curated a Valentine’s Day themed meal with an elaborate five course set menu. Considered to be one of the most romantic places to dine in the city, The Verandah has an amazing and evolving menu depending on the season. You’ll definitely be surprised with their menu for Valentine’s Day. CELEBRATE LOVE BY THE BAY One of the many unique experiences, Grand Hyatt Goa has to offer is a celebration dinner like no other. Situated just a few steps from the whispering waves, enjoy the privacy and intimacy of exclusive dining by the bay and celebrate love over a special five course meal. Under the night sky, twinkling stars and the sound of the quiet waves; it’s the perfect setting for an intimate memorable celebration. RELAX, REJUVENATE AND CELEBRATE LOVE AT SHAMANA SPA This Valentine’s Day don’t just say it with flowers, chocolates or gifts ... say it with a truly indulgent treatment at the Shamana Spa. Pamper your soul mate with a unique and natural rejuvenating spa experience. A specially created Valentine’s spa treatment; the Rose and Almond special revitalize and nourish the skin as it relaxes the body providing an amazing glow. A luxurious exfoliation with rose and almond body scrub is followed by a body massage with rose oil. Gift your Valentine an unforgettable, rejuvenating experience. WG February 2017 -
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MARC FOSH
NEW SPANISH CUISINE
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Marc Fosh is one of Europe’s most exciting and creative cookery talents and without doubt one of Britain’s most successful culinary exports. He began his culinary career at London’s Greenhouse restaurant in 1981, before moving on to the Michelin-starred Chelsea Room at the Carlton Tower Hotel. In 1991 his passion for discovering new dishes led him to Spain where he became part of the Spanish resurgence onto the global, gastronomy map.
RED PRAWN & SCORPION FISH TARTAR WITH PLANKTON JELLY & GREEN TOMATO & ROSEHIP CONSOMMÉ
Living and working in Spain he developed his own unique style of cuisine focusing on fresh ingredients and quality of produce, to which he adds a touch of inspired genius. The result is a modern, yet simple cuisine with clean tastes and depths of flavour. In 2002 Marc become the first and only British Chef to be awarded a Michelin Star in Spain. Marc also provided the first and business class menus for Germany’s flagship airline Lufthansa and has appeared as a guest Chef at Hangar 7, Salzburg. He recently became the global brand ambassador for Braun, providing his image and expertise in the area of recipe creation; participating in PR and Marketing campaigns related to various products manufactured by Braun, including the Multiquick line of hand blenders and other kitchen appliances. Fosh also travels to Moscow regularly where he acts as Consultant Chef to one of the Russian capital’s top restaurants.
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PRESERVED LEMON CREAM, SWEET DUKKAH, BURRATA CHERRY-ROSEWATER SORBET, RAS ALDOMESTIC HANOUT CARAMEL
SASHIMI FARMHOUSE CHICKEN, SMOKED RISOTTO, APRICOT PURE AND SHALLOTS
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PRESSED TERRINE OF FOIE GRAS & DUCK CONFIT WITH SPICED CHERRIES, CACAO & CHOCOLATE SALT
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DARK CHOCOLATE “CREMOSO” MANGO SORBET WITH POLLEN AND BASIL JELLY
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Simply Fosh opened in 2009 and is a fine dining restaurant that offers Marc’s signature modern Mediterranean cuisine. Located within the Refectori of the 17th century Hotel Convent de la Missio in the old town of Palma, the restaurant offers diners a simple yet imaginative menu using fresh, seasonal and local ingredients. Dishes include: duck and foie gras terrine with chocolate salt and orange blossom; sea bass with potato and caviar parmentier, pink grapefruit and young leeks; loin of lamb in a saffron crust with red pepper chlorophyll and black olive jus; preserved lemon cream with dukkah and a cherry-rosewater sorbet. The modern, stylish dÊcor has distinctive design features including a cascading wall of water and a sun terrace set within contemporary black and white surroundings. Private dining is also available in the stunning Art Gallery Room which can seat up to 70 people. WG February 2017 -
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CLAY CONLEY
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Clay Conley PHOTO © CRED ANDY RYAN
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CLAY CONLEY
TUNA TATAKI
Clay Conley is the Chef/Owner of some of Palm Beach’s most sought after restaurants; and while the cuisine styles vary amongst Buccan (2011), Imoto (2012) and Grato (2015), Conley’s approach to food remains the same. His dishes are inspired by real-life experiences and rooted in offering his guests a balance in flavors that is achieved through finding a harmonious blend of tastes, textures and temperatures. Growing up in New England, Buccan offers a punched-up version of true world casual cuisine. The menu is filled with dishes that blend classic childhood comforts with the rustic boldness of the Mediterranean and the sensual influences of Latin America. Buccan is listed as Forbes Travel Guide’s “Hottest Spot” in Palm Beach, Esquire’s “Where to Eat in South FL Now,” OpenTable’s “Top 100 Hot Spot Restaurants in America,” and has received “Best Restaurant” accolades from all area publications.
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MUSHROOM PIZZA
TUNA CRISPS
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HAMACHI SASHIMI
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GRATO PACCHERI
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Buccan’s steadfast success lead to additional ventures alongside his business partners including the launch of Buccan Catering, a full-fledged catering division for on and offsite events and The Sandwich Shop at Buccan, offering to-go lunch options crafted on house-made breads using house-cured meats. Conley also owns Imoto, his Asian-focused extension of Buccan, which is an ode to his time spent living in Tokyo and traveling throughout Southeast Asia, as well as Grato, a full-service Italian-inspired restaurant.
SWEET CORN AGNOLOTTI
Conley and his restaurants have been recognized in national and international media outlets including New York Times, Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Robb Report, USA Today and Wall Street Journal. He has been honored with two James Beard Award nominations for “Best Chef: South” and was listed as a “Top 25 Best Chefs of The American South”. Additionally, Conley has been featured on the Food Network and Cooking Channel. TEMPURA SHRIMP
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LEE WOLEN
Lee Wolen
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Born and raised in Cleveland, Ohio Chef Lee Wolen attended vocational culinary school during high school and quickly decided to pursue a career in the kitchen. During his early career Wolen worked as a Sous Chef in Chicago at Moto and at Butter in 2005, before spending time at Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and the famed El Bulli. Following his time abroad, Wolen returned to the states and spent considerable time at Eleven Madison Park in New York, where he held the position of Sous chef for three years. While at Eleven Madison Park, the restaurant achieved The New York Times’ coveted four-star review, earned multiple Michelin stars, as well as a top 10 ranking in San Pellegrino’s “World’s 50 Best Restaurants.”
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Returning to his Chicago roots, Wolen joined The Lobby at The Peninsula Chicago as Chef de Cuisine. Under Wolen’s direction, Time Out Chicago awarded The Lobby with a perfect five-star rating, a four-star review from Chicago Magazine, and three-stars from Chicago Tribune. Wolen also earned a Michelin Star, becoming the first-ever Eleven Madison Park alumni to be awarded a star. In January 2014, Wolen joined Boka Restaurant as Executive Chef/Partner. Chicago Tribune and Eater Chicago both named Lee as “2014 Chef of the Year.” Lee was named by Plate Magazine as one of “30 Chefs to Watch” in September 2015, and was nominated for a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Great Lakes in 2016. Under his lead, Boka has maintained a Michelin Star in 2014, 2015 and 2016. ROASTED CHICKEN
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TIMON BALLOO
Timon Balloo Born to Chinese and Trinidadian parents, Timon Balloo’s scrapbook of memories leads with days on the farm, ethnic recipes and a favorite pastime of watching not-so-traditional childhood television - PBS’ Yan Can Cook. So, in 1998 when Balloo enrolled in Johnson & Wales University, it came as no surprise to family and friends that he would pursue a career mastering the culinary arts. Through the international program of extended studies at Johnson & Wales, Balloo traveled to Belgium to work at Hotel Métropole under French Master, Chef Dominique Michou. From entremetier comis (hot line) to Patisserie Comis, Balloo honed his classical culinary training skills. “The vegetables and animals would often come straight from the farm,” Balloo explains. “It wasn’t unusual for us to have to skin and pluck the next dish… now that was farm-to-table cooking!” After learning abroad, Balloo returned to Miami to become Junior Sous Chef at the five-star AZUL in Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Miami under the leadership of Michelle Bernstein. Identifying Bernstein as his greatest mentor, Balloo recalls, “She taught me to cook from my heart and craft my own approach to food. With her support I continued to refine my skills, from the Asian-Caribbean influences of my heritage to broader global flavors and ingredients.” Another meaningful mentor came from “Professor” Allen Susser. “In Susser’s kitchen, you were broken down and then built back up,” Balloo explains. “My time cooking at Chef Allen’s gave me a new respect for food.”
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OCTOPUS ROBATA
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NIGHT CRAB
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From the iconic La Broche in Miami to SUSHISAMBA in New York City, Balloo earned his Executive Chef title. Through the use of the freshest, simple ingredients, Balloo’s signature juxtaposition of bold flavors on small plates started to take shape. In 2007, Balloo partnered with Amir Ben-Zion to launch Domo Japones in Miami’s Design District. The Japanese-concept highlighted one-of-a-kind ingredients in a former post office turned restaurant setting. Balloo’s menu was awarded three stars by the Miami Herald and Best Japanese by Miami New Times.
WATERMELON KIMCHEE
In 2009, Balloo reconnected with the SUSHISAMBA restaurant group with an ownership opportunity as Executive Chef and Partner of a new brand, SUGARCANE raw bar grill. Opening in 2010, SUGARCANE raw bar grill was an instant Miami favorite with its made-to-share small plates; three kitchens -- open fire grill, raw bar and traditional hot kitchen -- and robust rum selection. Upon opening, the restaurant was nominated as a “Best New Restaurant” by the James Beard Foundation, and has held an AAA 4-Diamond rating for four consecutive years. Balloo won the award for Culinary Innovator in 2014 from Johnson & Wales; has been dubbed the “Chef of the Year” by Eater Miami and was also nominated for “The People’s Best New Chef” by Food & Wine. WG February 2017 -
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BACON WRAPPED DATES PHOTO © ANDREW MEADE
Balloo is passionate about bringing awareness to food insecurity and actively serves as Chef Chairperson for Taste of the Nation South Florida as well as works in partnership with CitiGardens, an organization that has placed growing gardens in 51 schools across Miami-Dade County in neighborhoods designated as “food deserts” due to the lack of access to fresh food. Additionally, he sits on the advisory board for Atlanta Food & Wine Festival. Today, Balloo’s zeal and vivacity continues to manifest in his dishes. In the fall of 2016, Balloo reached beyond Miami borders opening a new 6,500-square-foot Las Vegas SUGARCANE raw bar grill outpost in the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian & The Palazzo. With his globally-inspired eclectic small plates and emphasis on kicking back, eating well, and celebrating with friends, Balloo hopes to honor Food & Wine Magazine’s praises, offering the West Coast “a greatest hits of delicious dishes.”
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PAN SEARED SCALLOPS
KIMCHEE FRIED RICE
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MAGAZINES
a feast for the palate... CHOCOLATE SOUP FUNKY GOURMET - ATHENS
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