‘ W GOA O
MAY 2015
something is always brewing
MIKKEL LEGARTH & VALENTIN GRUENER Love and Passion for African Wildlife
RAFFLES SINGAPORE
This is where the legend began...
DAVID ROCCO Dolce India
DAVID MYERS
The Gypsy Chef
JOËL ROBUCHON
Most Decorated Michelin-Star Chef
DINING IN THE FAR EAST
G O A & B E Y O N D L u x u r y
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‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
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“THE BEST EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE” – Kieran Holliday, UK
WE LOVE NATURE AND ITS WONDERS We believe it’s important to preserve and protect the marvels that surround us. At Modisa Wildlife Project you will become an active member in our day-to-day work, doing everything from helping to build and maintain facilities, to cleaning predator enclosures after the animals are fed. The work, combined with the activities, will bring you up-close with the animals and African culture. All the activities at Modisa – from farm work, bush walks and lectures to feeding full-grown lions, leopards and wild dogs – will challenge you both physically and mentally. They’ll ensure you have a more unique and adventurous experience in the African bush than you can ever imagine.
WHAT TO EXPECT Lectures on the ecosystem; Hiking in the wilderness with specialized guides; Sleep-outs in the African bush under the breathtaking Kalahari sky (May – October); Up-close encounters with big cats and other local predators; Opportunities to feed the animals, including lions, leopards and wild dogs; Cleaning the enclosures and fence patrol; Basic tracking training; Animal viewing & game drives; Participating in game counts and other area surveys; Farm work and daily life in the camp; Enjoying the experience with like-minded people from all over the world …and much much more.
W O‘GOA supports
WWW.MODISA.ORG
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We are delighted to announce that Chef Heinz Beck will be joining us for service on the evenings of Monday May 4th & Tuesday May 5th, 2015. Chef Beck will create a special six course menu for the occasion, which will be inspired by a seasonal trip to the market upon arrival. Should you need assistance with a reservation, please feel free to contact:
Social Heinz Beck Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah Tel: +971 4 818 2155 | M: +971 56 683 5999 | M: +971 52 616 6011 email: mathew.brown@waldorfastoria.com
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Editor Fabian deCastro Lifestyle Editor Doug Singer Editorial Consultant Teotonio R. de Souza Feature Editor Dielle D’souza Editorial Contributor Mario Bermeo Jr Photography Arnold Noronha Photography Consultant & Creative Design Studio FJMdesign Publisher
IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.
METROPOLITAN R E P O R T
a connoisseur’s guide to the good life
WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in WO’GOA™ New York Head of Operations - North America Doug Singer 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug.singer@wogoa.in © IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WO’GOA™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. © 2014 WO’GOA™ All rights reserved.
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Cover Image Credit: Nicolai Rossen
‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
The team at WO’GOA has exciting things in store for you in our May issue - but first, we would like to take a moment to bid farewell to the esteemed founder of Izzy Publishing and WO’GOA Magazine, José Esbelto Xavier deCastro Monteiro. He will certainly be missed by all, but we will rest well knowing his legacy will live on for many years to come. In this exciting issue, we will be spending much time exploring the East. Join us as we visit the legendary Raffles Singapore. Opened in 1887, this is one of the few remaining great 19th century hotels in the world. Next up we are off to Hong Kong to dine with Chef Fabrice Vulin and we will also catch up with the iconic Cat Cora - the famed Iron Chef who has opened Ocean Restaurant as a part of the world’s largest aquarium in SIngapore. Marking his first foray into Singapore, award-winning chef and restaurateur David Myers unveils his newest creation, Adrift, located in the atrium of Marina Bay Sands, while Tango Argentinian Steak House introduces rustic tradition & prime La Pampa Beef (derived from the world’s most famous grazing pasture) to Hong Kong’s dining scene. Additional points of interest will include Singapore’s Manhattan - Home to the world’s first in-hotel Rickhouse, Will Meyrick – A Street Food Chef Takes Hong Kong by storm, Odette Mascarenhas – The Making of a Food Critic, Koi – A Luxurious Pan Asian Journey, Four Seasons - Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake, David Laris - celebrated chef and entrepreneur, Resort Bali at Sayan, Palace Hotel Tokyo, Celebrity Chef David Rocco’s Dolce Vita empire and last but certainly not least, Joël Robuchon – the most decorated Michelin Star Chef and culinary legend. It would not be an issue of WO’GOA without a foray through the homeland and this month we will partake in Mango Mania - the season of the king of fruits and the Spirit of Goa - even though cashews originally arrived from Brazil, Goa is the only place in the world that had the ingenuity to create from it the beloved aromatic alcoholic drink, Feni. It is a jam packed issue and if that’s not enough, dive into recipes of Signature Dishes by David Rocco, Gordon Ramsay and many others!! Doug Singer Lifestyle Editor
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CONTENTS 26
Love and Passion for African Wildlife
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Raffles Singapore
54
David Rocco’s Dolce India
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David Myers - Creator of Culinary Experiences
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Odette Mascarenhas - Making of a Food Critic
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Most Decorated Michelin-Star Chef
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Fabrice Vulin
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Cat Cora
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TANGO - Argentinian Steak House
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A Touch of Paris in Soho
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Street Food Chef
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‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
Iconic Beachfront Restaurant
132
Contemporary Australian Cuisine
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Mango Mania 142 Spirit of Goa 148 Manhattan 154 KOI 162 Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake
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Water, Wine & Washoku 172 The Spa 174 Signature Dishes 178 Mikkel Legarth, Valentin Gruener & Sirga Photo Nicolai Rossen 19
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FOUNDER - IZZY PUBLISHING & WO’GOA
José Esbelto Xavier deCastro Monteiro 1927 - 2015
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WO’GOA
a gentleman and a scholar We begin to speak most when a person so dear is no longer with us, yet during life, we tend to overlook their achievements and the profound differences they have made in people’s lives. Coined in the 18th century, phrases like ‘a gentleman and a scholar’ were used to describe those with such noble characteristics. With this in mind, it is noble and most appropriate to acknowledge José Esbelto Xavier deCastro Monteiro, the finest example of a man - a man of integrity, who was respected by all and admired by many. Even in the last minutes in his life, José was filled with epiphanies and moments of inspiration. A sentimental person who spent much time talking about love, and still in his wallet toady, a beautiful picture of his loving parents. It was this abiding love for his parents, wife and children that sustained him, with believing that love happened all the time and everywhere. A humble and simple man who went through hardships of life, yet with a smile on his face, he would bear it all without a complaint. Nothing less but the best was provided to his family, starting with venturing out at the age of 14 to work in order to put his older brother through medical school - this was his greatest joy in the 1940’s and 1950’s followed by getting married in 1959 and raising four brilliant children who he equally loved with all of his heart. José worked at what he loved most and worked very hard. His ability to pick up anything and have it fixed, was a gift leaving many saying that ‘whatever he touched turned to gold, since being unique with working with his left hand and writing with his right.’ Speaking of the good old days, the days of the Portuguese in Goa would bring back memories of his dear parents and one could see it in his eyes, as they would sparkle with joy. Sharing any news with him was always well accepted - a wise man who made time to listen and shared his thoughts which were never ironic or cynical, yet one could feel good and learn from all he shared. As he struggled physically in the last years due to a back injury which left him bed ridden, he never lost touch with the real world, rarely complained and was always mentally alert. José’s final words before he suffered a stroke and heart attack were: “From today I will get up from the bed, I am not sick...”
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All Men Are Flawed Therefore They Are Real In memory of Mr. JosÊ deCastro Monteiro, as I understood the man. Memories I would like to respectfully draw from. In this ever passage of time there remains the certainty of the passing on of one’s soul. We grieve this inevitable mortal ending but I am sure we should embrace its new beginning.
Joe Monty has left us a vision; A heart desire for all he cared about and loved to come together as one. Displayed his feeling by selflessly giving and at times jealously protecting those that belonged, by the simple logic of love. The gift of giving in purity, is expecting the return of nothing. The special gift of sacrifice seldom witnessed in present times. We should salute his unconditional commitment and carry this loyalty of love ideal, in our vision path of life ahead.
It would be wise to emulate Joe Monty - The Man; A man who stood tall by his word, weighed in by honoring those few words. Discipline and dependability were his forte, never shying away from responsibility at hand. His stature was built on the premise of fairness, forthrightness and honest to God hard work. Time on earth was he highly respected, and he squandered little by his excellent choices of abstinence, action and accountability. A special breed that molded his personality through an aggressive conscience, and moral fortitude that drew people to him by his down to earth humility and complex simplicity. 24
These are some of the attributes and qualities to mindfully pay heed to and imbibe in our inner being. Surely an arduous task ahead, however which will hold us in good stead and a merit to our well-being.
Joe Monty - The Spirited Man; Man is the most precious, dominant part of God’s creation. Joe was crafted with a creative spirit, to be innovative and adaptive all through, in different circumstances and stations of life. This calls for the spirit of man to endure and be courageous with whole hearted vigor. His zest of life was clearly evident in the later few years, he decided not to be judgmental nor live in regret but be enthusiastic about the possibilities all around and beyond. He could engage you in interesting conversations with a positive attitude and a cheerful disposition. It was a pleasure listening to his keen mind. He refused to be the broken, because he would overcome fear and uncertainty with faith, resilience and grit rather than succumb to negativity. Strong spirited he was, in all his encounters against adversity to surpass. His physical mobility restricted yet he had his feet firmly grounded in reality. He actively employed the freedom of the mind in varied spheres. Eagerly with abundance embraced the unfettered, God inspired spirit of life. With the high esteem I hold for Mr. JosÊ deCastro Monteiro, it would be good counsel to prosper by absorbing the richness of values he stood for and the staunch standards he set in life. Let us gather the meaning of fulfillment by virtues and celebrate the joy of gracious living. The past keep aside, the present beside, the future we decide‌ Mr. Joe Monty, thank you for sharing your life with us. Ryan Largo-Afonso 25
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
MIKKEL LEGARTH & SIRGA PHOTO REBECCA BERG 26
WO’GOA
Their love and passion for African wildlife – especially big cats – transformed the ways they envisioned their futures. Mikkel Legarth’s passion for Africa and its wildlife started in his early days watching documentaries and studying books about the diverse wildlife of Africa. He planned to work as pilot, but a 3-week trip to Africa in 2008 completely changed his life. After volunteering with the area’s big cats, Mikkel extended his stay to 10 months, working in a management position where he oversaw up to 60 volunteers from all over the world. Following his childhood dream, Mikkel cofounded the Modisa Wildlife Project to help create a better future for the wildlife of Botswana. Mikkel runs the business side of Modisa including finding sponsors, creating awareness events along with planning and executing all the marketing campaigns that connects Modisa to the outside world. Mikkel spends time between the Modisa office in Denmark and the Modisa camp in Botswana. Valentin Gruener decided to pursue his dream of working with big cats in Africa. His passion for animals started when he was just a boy in Germany, where he would rescue and rehabilitate injured animals. In Africa, he ended up working beside Mikkel, running a volunteer project for six months. Valentin completed his ranger course, a FGASA level 1 guiding course, and obtained a level 3 in track and sign interpretation and ID course in Krüger National Park in 2010. He moved to Botswana at the end of 2010 and today Valentin runs the volunteer program full time and oversees data collection alongside researchers, so Modisa can create a database that will fuel further research into the Botswana wildlife. Mikkel and Valentin have achieved a dream, a dream of setting up Modisa Wildlife Project – a project with the ambition of creating awareness about the Kalahari ecosystem and its predators. By collaborating with researchers and students in Botswana, Modisa Wildlife Project provides the unique opportunity to create positive, sustainable changes in the hope of creating a brighter future for Kalahari wildlife. In November 2011, Modisa Wildlife Project teamed up with Mr. De Graaff. The 10,000-hectare farm on which Modisa Wildlife Project is based borders the buffer zone west of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the second largest game reserve in the world. The area’s wide-open spaces and untamed wilderness provide ideal conditions for a wide range of animals, such as: various antelopes, zebras, wildebeests, giraffes, cheetahs, leopards and brown hyena and a spectacular bird and insect life. The aim of the Modisa Wildlife Project is to engage in the conservation of the Kalahari ecosystem by promoting awareness at the local and global scale, assisting in the mitigation of humancarnivore conflict, and providing support to researchers. They pride themselves on giving the animals the best possible care and quality of life and they have played a key role in providing health care and creating living conditions that are as close to their natural habitat as possible. 27
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
SIRGA PHOTO FABIAN GIESKE 28
WO’GOA
With their busy schedules, Mikkel Legarth and Valentin Gruener makes time to speak with WO’GOA... WO’GOA: Mikkel, take us back to the trip to Africa in 2008 which had a great effect on your life. Mikkel Legarth and Valentin Gruener: In 2008 I decided to travel to Namibia for three weeks and experience the amazing wildlife. This trip had been a dream since childhood and I was full of excitement to try something completely different before beginning my studies to become a commercial pilot. Three weeks quickly turned into three months and when I returned to Denmark I realized that I had to rethink my future plans. After a couple of months at home, I decided that I had to go back to Namibia to either “finish” my adventure or to figure out what I could do in Africa. My second trip started in January 2009, where I met Valentin. WO’GOA: From volunteers on a wildlife farm in 2009 and your passion and childhood dreams of setting a wildlife project, how did the Sirga story begin? ML & VG: Both of us had this passion for African wildlife since our childhood. While working together in Namibia, somehow the idea of starting our own project came up. And just months later we found ourselves in Botswana, knowing nobody here and nothing much about the country, but we felt straight away like this was the right place to start this project. It took a lot longer than expected, but after about two years of trying to set something up and taking different jobs to be able to keep on going, we met with Mr. Willie De Graaff, who as a big cattle farmer own large area of land in Botswana. 10.000 ha of his land got dedicated to Wildlife and created a private reserve called Grassland Safaris. On top of that he started capturing problem predators who were causing trouble for the farmers in the surrounding areas. He would keep them and look after them at his own expense until Botswana Wildlife Department have found a suitable area for relocation. 29
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
When we met Willi De Graaff and told him about our plans he gave us the amazing opportunity to start our project on his reserve and to help him take care of the captive predators. Shortly after we started setting up a very basic little camp, a lioness inside one of the camps gave birth to a litter of cubs, we believe it was 3 or 4. Other lions who are inside the same camp unfortunately killed some of the new born lions and only one was left behind. Her mother would after this events not feed this cub anymore and she was certainly going to die. Willi De Graaff did not hesitate a moment and gave us permission to try and rescue this little cub. And that’s how it all started. WO’GOA: What is the greatest reward and conversely, sacrifice, that has evolved from your commitment to caring for Sirga? ML & VG: The biggest sacrifice for me was definitely the fact that I had to spend a lot of time in Europe - away from the bush. My job here was important to make the project happen financially and because of my business degree it made more sense for me to take over that part of the project. Valentin is a more handy person and has education as a guide and tracker. The part of being in the bush full time therefore suited better for him. This meant for me, that I only got to spend a limited amount of time with Sirga while she was younger. Valentin was there all the time. It surely was a big sacrifice to know that I would not get to have that opportunity to spend day and night with that lioness and develop that strong bond, but in the end we had to do what was best for the bigger picture. Even if it may seem like a dream to most people, Valentin also had to make his sacrifices. He has not left Botswana for almost 5 years now and spends basically all of his time living on the bush, running the project there. Living in camp without much of a private life and without any off days is also not everybody’s first choice. In the end I think that both, Valentin and myself have made each our sacrifices in order to make a dream come true and that our different skills make us a great team. The possibility of getting Sirga her large area is extremely exciting for us. After years of hard work I think the moment where it all pays of will be when we can open Sirga’s cage and let her walk into her new home where she can live safely! 30
WO’GOA
VALENTIN GRUENER & SIRGA PHOTO NICOLAI ROSSEN 31
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
WO’GOA: What has this unique relationship taught you about the bond between man and animal? ML & VG: It is difficult to put into words how an experience like that influences you. I think the biggest thing we have learned is a huge sense of responsibility for an animal that you have cared for and that is now so depended on us to make sure she gets the life that she deserves. This responsibility also goes far beyond that one individual. It makes us even more aware of how the remaining populations of wildlife are as depending on us, not the two of us but us as humans. We need to care for them and focus our attention on making sure that our greed and selfishness does not keep on destroying the habitat for all the other species that we share this beautiful planet with. WO’GOA: Are you concerned about how an artificial environment and domestication will affect her long-term ability to thrive? ML & VG: We don’t think that the way Sirga was raised would affect her survival a lot. But we are not willing to test this, which is why she is supposed to get her own 500 ha area where she can live a good life almost in the wild. It would be a big enough area for her to meet a wild male lion, hunt her own food and live a wild life but would also give us a chance to monitor closely and interfere if need be. If all goes well there would be a chance that she could raise her own cubs one day - without human interference. Her cubs would most likely be able to be released into a good location once they become of age. 32
WO’GOA
If this will ever happen still depends on many factors and one of the biggest challenges will be to find a suitable place for her offspring to be released. WO’GOA: Tell us about MODISA Wildlife Project and as Guardians how do you plan to bring about a bond between people and the wilderness? ML & VG: So many people are already doing work which aims for the same goal and we would never claim to be the once who succeed. But at least we are hoping to be able to reach people with our message, get people interested in conservation topics and in the end help the wildlife just here in that small area. At least the last part is something we know we can do and that we are already doing. Besides that we do think that Sirga and the way her story went through the online media so far is already doing something good for the Kalahari ecosystem. WO’GOA: If one would want to help out at the MODISA Wildlife Project, what would he/she have to do? ML & VG: We do run a commercial volunteer project and everybody who comes to visit is helping to keep the place running in a major way. Besides that we are busy setting up a foundation in Denmark in order to start fundraisers for various conservation projects that we are hoping to be able to support in this area.
VALENTIN GRUENER & SIRGA PHOTO FABIAN GIESKE
There is so much that can be done if the funding would be there. Sirga and her role in the media again seems to be playing an important role for this endeavor. 33
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
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VALENTIN GRUENER & SIRGA PHOTO FABIAN GIESKE 35
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
MIKKEL LEGARTH, VALENTIN GRUENER & SIRGA PHOTO NICOLAI ROSSEN 36
WO’GOA
WO’GOA: How has your care for this lioness ultimately affected the course of your future? Do you see it as a sacrifice, or a blessing? ML & VG: What Sirga has done for the both of us is definitely a blessing. We are so lucky to a lioness like her and to see her grow up and make her first kill etc... Without a doubt this must be the biggest thing in our lives. But it has influenced our future in a major way, because by taking on that responsibility Modisa has become something that cannot just end anymore. All of the sudden is has to be there and provide for an animal. In no way that is at all negative, it is the best thing ever, but a lot of responsibility comes with it. WO’GOA: What methods have you used in order to train Sirga for the wild and what complications did you face in order to implement these methods? ML & VG: It has mainly been Valentin training her since he has been with her every day. But we would not call it training her, it was more just raising her, looking after her health and to giver her the opportunity to be in the bush as much as possible, like a young lion should be. Valentin has never done more than simply being there to make sure she is okay and to give her that opportunity and out of that this strong bond has developed. It is more a mutual understanding between the two of them then the training of one individual. WO’GOA: After releasing Sirga into the artificial wild environment, would you consider your methods of preparation a success and why? ML & VG: If everything goes fine and she hunts her own food regularly and we won’t have to feed her anymore we do believe that it would be a success. But especially if there would ever be the chance for her to have her own cubs to grow up like this and then release those cubs into the wild that would be the ultimate success for Sirga’s story. Nevertheless just to know that she would have those 500 ha to walk around in would already be a success for us and we are sure also for her ;-) 37
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
WO’GOA readers Join in to help MODISA to raise funds to build a fence for Sirga the Lioness, she needs to have a proper home... www.modisa.org
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SIR PH GA OT O
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MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
VALENTIN GRUENER & SIRGA 40
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WO’GOA: What conditions and dangers within the surrounding area and around Botswana that could proof fatal for animals like Sirga and the others you have saved? ML & VG: Sirga is not really like any of the other animals in captivity here. She will always have our care and we will not let her risk anything. Only when she goes hunting and a fatal injury would occur, then there would be nothing much for us to do about it, but we do want to give her that freedom. All the other predators are ready for relocation, and the purpose here is not to keep them in camps but to get them relocated into a new home where they can be wild. And for any wild lion, the shooting because they might end up eating cattle or being poached because of the value of their bones on the black marked re threats that are there and that are real. And those issued is what humans should focus their efforts on. A good start would be to convince the people in the countries responsible for the illegal trade that the substances from lion bone are not doing what they believe they do. As long as the demand is there people will find a way to poach those magnificent creatures. And the more difficult we make the poaching the higher the price for the product will get and poachers will have the upper hand, we need to work on the root of the problem and then take it from there. 41
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT, CAMP PHOTO FABIAN GIESKE 42
WO’GOA
WO’GOA: How can the community from the surrounding areas help prevent such conditions and what should they do should they encounter wild animals in serious need of protection? ML & VG: The communities are not really the problem regarding the killing of the predators. The poaching is a different level and is directed from somewhere else. The people in the concerned areas are well adapted to the life with the predators around them and they know well how to avoid dangerous situations. Rather then trying to teach people who to be safe we should focus on showing people the value of those amazing animals that are still roaming free through their country. That way people learn how to appreciate their existence because it will be the wildlife that pays the bills and makes livelihoods work. Instead we keep on telling people that they should not kill it but at the same time also don’t give them any reason to value the wildlife. WO’GOA: Your story of bondage and love with Sirga has some similarities to the tale of Christian the lion who was bought in London and eventually trained to be set free in the wild in Africa. Did you find any inspiration from this story and did you learn anything from the training methods used by the late George Adamson at that time? ML & VG: Christian the lion is an inspiring story. Before we started Modisa we were not really aware of this and our goals an ideas did not come form other peoples stories, it just happened. Sirga has never been trained after any manual and we hope that the late George Adams would agree that every lion is an individual and by spending as much time as possible you get to read those individuals and the better you get to know them, the more you will know how to read the specific animal. Sirga simply became what she is now through spending lots of time with Valentin and the two of them found a way to communicate on some level and that’s why it works for them to be close together, it’s a mutual trust that develops. Besides any training methods the most important thing is that the “trainer” has to spend as much time as possible with the animal. 43
RAFFLES SINGAPORE
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RAFFLES SINGAPORE This is where the legend began…
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Opened in 1887, Raffles Singapore is one of the few remaining great 19th century hotels in the world. Till today, its architecture is perfectly preserved both inside and out, giving it an intoxicating blend of luxury, history and classic colonial design. Within its walls are 103 expansive suites, framed by polished teak verandas and white marble colonnades, clustered around lush tropical gardens. Each is serviced by the legendary Raffles butlers and offers every modern convenience necessary. This is where the legend began‌ The year was 1887 when the doors to the Raffles Singapore first opened. Since then, it has become an icon that epitomises the romance of the Far East – an intoxicating blend of luxury, history and colonial design. No visit to Singapore is complete without a stay at Raffles; tradition demands it. Residential Elegance - A veritable oasis in the city, Raffles Singapore is situated in the heart of the business and civic district. Surrounded by modern skyscrapers, it perfectly preserves its classic colonial architecture, providing a stark contrast against its neighbours. In 1987, the hotel was declared a National Monument by the Singapore Government, after which it underwent a complete restoration at a cost of S$160 million. Through the decades, liveried Sikh doormen have welcomed some of the most famous personalities through the ornate wrought-iron portico. Writers Somerset Maugham, 46
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Rudyard Kipling, Ernest Hemingway and Alfred Hitchcock were among those who had succumbed to the charms of Raffles. Today, nothing much has changed with esteemed guests such as the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, George Bush, Karl Lagerfield, Christian Louboutin, Tory Birch and Juliette Binoche adoring her gracious hospitality. Enter the main building of the hotel and the magnificence of the lobby, seemingly unaltered from the turn of the century, takes the breath away. White marble colonnades, also found throughout the hotel, encircle an atrium that soars four floors up. During the day, sunlight pours through illuminating polished teak verandas that lead to 103 suites. The main building is occupied by the presidential and grand hotel suites, while the remaining suites face adjacent courtyards each with their own period furnishings, 14-foot ceiling and modern conveniences. Available round the clock is service by the legendary Raffles butlers, who are as discreet as they are efficient in the fulfilment of requests both ordinary and extraordinary. Gourmet Adventures - Some fourteen restaurants and bars dot the Raffles, recalling the atmosphere of an elegant age. Among the most well-loved include the elegant Long Bar, where the famous Singapore Sling was created; and Writers Bar, a tribute to the novelists and travel writers, the likes of Somerset Maugham, Rudyard Kipling and James Michener just to name a few, who have become part of the hotel’s legend. The distinctive restaurants and bars within Raffles recall the atmosphere of an elegant 49
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era, providing a culinary paradise which combines the best of local culture and cuisine with dishes from around the world. Tiffin Room, adjacent to the lobby, is the hotel’s main dining area. The elegant restaurant offers a sumptuous buffet of authentic North Indian specialities and curries during lunch and dinner, and the well-loved classic afternoon tea. Raffles Grill presents exquisite contemporary French cuisine in a sophisticated dining setting. Overlooking the Palm Court, the hotel’s formal dining room features an extensive wine selection complementing the impeccable menu. Writers Bar, located in the hotel lobby, continues to pay tribute to the novelists and travel writers who have become part of the hotel’s legend. Housed off the main lobby, Bar & Billiard Room offers a generous whisky and cocktail bar, and lavish champagne brunch on Sundays. Two antique billiard tables, one of them a Raffles Hotel original, date back to the turn of the century and take pride of place at the distinguished bar. Up on the second floor of the hotel, the renowned Long Bar, where the famous Singapore Sling was created, can be found. Busy regardless of time of day, it is the only place in the country where people are encouraged to litter by tossing peanut shells on the floor. 50
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Down the corridor is Long Bar Steakhouse, perfect for grilled prime cuts of Australian and US beef, quality seafood and a tantalising selection of cold and hot appetizers. At Raffles Courtyard, savour authentic Italian specialities; hot from the stove pizzas, a regional selection of pastas and fresh salads, in an expansive alfresco setting flanked by tropical palms. Ah Teng’s Bakery, the cosy café features delicious pastries, biscuits and cake complete with freshly brewed coffee and tea to soothe the haste of the bustling city. An Oasis of Luxury - Adjoining the hotel and built in architectural harmony with it is the Raffles Hotel Arcade. It houses a broad range of facilities for visitors to enjoy, including 40 regional and specialty boutiques, indoor and outdoor function areas – The Ballroom and The Lawn – and Jubilee Hall, a replica of a 19th century playhouse where plays, recitals and cultural events are staged. Intricately woven into the buildings are lush tropical gardens. These occupy more than a quarter of the entire estate, providing a tranquil contrast to the hustle and bustle beyond. It is not uncommon to hear the delightful melodies of singing birds beyond the verandas, and the rustle of palm branches in the breeze – welcome to the oasis that is Raffles Singapore. The story continues…
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DAVID ROCCO’S DOLCE INDIA
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elebrity chef David Rocco, the dolce vita - “the sweet life” - is about being present in those moments in life that bring you joy. It’s a sip of perfect espresso in the morning. It’s the patina of a rugged old kitchen table that has seen a thousand family dinners. It’s a nod hello to a stranger as you struggle down the street in the morning to catch the bus. David brings his passion for food and life to millions of kitchens every day through his worldwide hit television programs. Airing in more than 150 countries, David Rocco’s Dolce Vita, David Rocco’s Amalfi Getaway, and his latest offering, David Rocco’s Dolce India are each the perfect combination of food, travel and a celebration of the sweet life. With a little help from the gorgeous backdrop of Italy and the local foodies, David has been bringing sexy back to the kitchen, cooking beautiful, simple and rustic dishes that anyone can master. His focus is casual Italian cooking that makes the cuisine one of the healthiest and arguably most popular in the world. David is the author of three cookbooks including two national best sellers: David Rocco’s Dolce Vita and Made In Italy. He is the recipient of numerous awards and accolades including a Gourmand Award, a Taste Canada Award and has been named one of “Canada’s Top Ten Style Makers” by Flare magazine. David is regularly featured and quoted by newspapers and magazines including The Globe and Mail, National Post, Toronto Star, Hello!, enRoute, Food & Drink and Chatelaine. He also makes regular guest appearances on Global, CTV and CBC television, as well as popular programs like Donut Showdown, where he was lead judge, Top Chef Canada and Iron Chef America. With his busy filming schedules in India, David makes time to speak with WO’GOA. 54
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WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell us about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to became one of the most notable celebrity Chefs of the culinary world offering one of the most original Italian food experiences! David Rocco: I was brought up in an Italian household, where food is paramount, just like it is in India. From my upbringing, I learned the importance of food, and that it’s not just about eating but also connecting with family and friends and spending time with each other. Watching my mother and my aunts and my grandmother work together to prepare the big Sunday Pranzo had a huge influence on me and it’s what brought me into the kitchen, so in a sense, food is in my blood, it’s ingrained in my DNA, and there’s no way I was going to grow up and do anything else. WO’GOA: Take us through your journey in 1997, your holidays in Italy and the video which lead to a 26 episode TV series ‘Avventura’ and the inspiration, motivation and encouragement of Nina Rocco to keep your dream alive! David Rocco: Looking back now, I can see how everything is connected, but I certainly didn’t know at the time that our original video would lead to a series in India 20 years later. That first trip to Italy, we basically made a food video journal that eventually became a series, gave us the momentum to create our own shows. In the early stages of your career, you can’t just become an executive producer and make whatever shows you want… you have to fight for every inch and prove yourself. Nina and I created a partnership that was based on mutual respect and encouragement. We were both very passionate about our shows, and helped each other succeed. When one of us was feeling defeated, the other person was there to pick us up. 56
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WO’GOA: Who were the people who influenced you the most and how? David Rocco: Getting into the television and film industry is really difficult. It’s very much a closed shop. I was inspired by my grandfather and other immigrants who came to Canada with nothing, worked incredibly hard and never took “no” for an answer. That kind of work ethic is why I am where I am today. WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? David Rocco: My family had a huge influence on me in my younger years. I learned all the fundamentals from my mother and grandmother. Now my greatest influences are the people I meet through my travels. Not so much the professional restaurant chefs, but the home cooks … the people who cook for family, love and passion. They’re the real inspiration. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created in three minutes and what inspired this recipe and why? David Rocco: I’ve never really “created” any recipes. Most of my dishes are based on family recipes that I’ve put my own spin on. Through my travels, I’ve experimented with fusion, but to say I’ve created a dish doesn’t feel right to me. I suppose when I was in college I came up with a recipe that was inspired by a creamy lobster pasta sauce that I’d had in a restaurant. Because I was a student, and I couldn’t exactly afford lobster, I substituted it with tuna and it was incredible. It’s a dish I still make often today. WO’GOA: If you weren’t a chef what do you think you’d be doing? David Rocco: I’d be an Astronaut. WO’GOA: Your culinary creations is nourished with the products you discover, cooking beautiful, simple and rustic dishes with Dolce Vita while on the other hand you take the same beautiful, simple, rustic dish with a mix of blends with Dolce India – a unique interpretations that transform into highly innovative flavors, how do you bring this balance on the plate? David Rocco: It’s not hard to find a balance between Indian and Italian dishes when creating a fusion between the 59
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two. There are a lot of similar elements: tomatoes, lentils, rice, legumes, etc. Slow cooked stews are common in both culture’s cuisines. It’s all about finding the right elements to incorporate. WO’GOA: What is the secret to a well run kitchen? David Rocco: Organization and preparation. Having your ingredients ready to go. From there, it’s all about quick assembly and working efficiently. WO’GOA: Your first book ‘David Rocco’s Dolce Vita’ – you bring the sense of la dolce vita in people’s lives, the sweet life, bringing friends and family together, your philosophy of quanto basta, or “just enough,” an excellent book with profound understandings family and community values, and culinary culture! What was the inspiration behind this while writing your book? David Rocco: Through the book, I wanted to teach readers the Quanto Basta philosophy, or “as much as you need,” and how it applies to both Italian cooking and life in general. Living la dolce vita is about balance — sometimes more isn’t always better. The book was inspired by my upbringing and my experiences living in Italy and everything I had learned up until that point. WO’GOA: Food brings everyone together– Italians are known for bringing family and friends together, what is your fondest memory of eating with your family as you were growing up and do you replicate this way of cooking now with your own family? David Rocco: It has to be the Sunday Pranzo. The entire family getting together to cook and eat and share stories from the week. It’s a tradition that we still practice in my house today. WO’GOA: You say ‘Your legacy is your kids and everything else is gravy’ how do you manage your hectic schedules and family life? David Rocco: I travel a lot. It gives me satisfaction, it enriches my life and in turn, enriches my family’s life. Last year, Nina and the kids came with me to India, which was only made possible by the success of the show. When I’m home, I devote as many of my non-working hours to them as possible. I take them to school and I’m very active in their lives. I try not to miss too many big moments. 60
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WO’GOA: If you could cook for and dine with anyone, who would that be? David Rocco: Narendra Modi (India’s Prime Minister). WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? David Rocco: My choice ingredients depend entirely on the season and what’s available locally. In Italy, in the fall, it’s all about olive oil. It’s so fresh, it’s glorious! When I make pasta at this time, the sauce is literally just a drizzle of olive oil: it’s that good. WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? David Rocco: Creativity. Technique can be learned, creativity can’t. WO’GOA: Behind the glitz we see you have been involved in a number of fundraisers – The Ultimate Battle for a Cure, your collaboration with the Canadian Heart and Stroke Foundation and charities. Could you tell us more? David Rocco: Giving back is important to me. I’m extremely lucky that I have a healthy family and I want to use my good fortune to help others. WO’GOA: What does David Rocco do when he needs a break? How do you spend your time off work? David Rocco: I don’t. I never stop working. I love it too much. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? David Rocco: Hamburgers WO’GOA: What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career? David Rocco: Passion. I still get excited about what I do. WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? David Rocco: Don’t become a chef because you want to be on TV, do it because you love to cook, feed people and eat!
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David Myers
Creator of Culinary Experiences Marking his first foray into Singapore, award-winning chef and restaurateur David Myers unveils his newest creation, Adrift, located in the atrium of Marina Bay Sands. Inspired by Myers’ wanderlust outlook, Adrift is a bespoke urban kaleidoscope anchored by the places, faces and flavours of his path, from California to Asia. Pairing a nostalgic spirit with a modern aesthetic, the restaurant is curated to the very last detail by Myers. “I’m thrilled to join the Marina Bay Sands family, with its history of partnership with iconic chefs,” said Chef David Myers. “Adrift is a personal ode to the vibrant experiences I’ve encountered in my many travels. It’s a colourful food culture mashup from both sides of the Pacific, a merging of old and new -- small plates you can toast to, and a modern way of dining.” Through his nomadic travels, Chef David Myers has become a collector and creator of culinary experiences. With a career spanning nearly two decades and three continents, Myers has founded projects - Sona, Hinoki & the Bird, Comme Ca, Pizzeria Ortica and David Myers Cafe in Tokyo - that bridge geographical and cultural divides. Myers’ hallmark resides in soulful, imaginative dishes inspired by sojourns across Asia, Europe, and especially his own bountiful backyard of California. His new company, Gypsy Chef, aims to build restaurant concepts that awe, inspire, and delight the senses. 64
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“Adrift is a personal ode to the vibrant experiences I’ve encountered in my many travels. It’s a colorful food culture mashup from both sides of the Pacific, a merging of old and new small plates you can toast to, and a modern way of dining.” David Myers 67
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As the Gypsy Chef™, his enthusiasm for storytelling and global travel is shared in unforgettably delicious ways... Led by Executive Chef Dong Choi, the menu at Adrift blends playful snacks with raw items, and artisanal toasts with charcoal-grilled treats in a whimsical approach to East-meets-West. Cheeky nods to American classics take the form of Caramel Popcorn with Togarashi and a King Crab Melt with pimento cheese. Many of the mix-and-match small plates, meant for sharing, feature interpretations of Myers’ most beloved dishes from his travels throughout Asia. More inspirations from Myers’ travels are evident in a section titled “Nomadic”, remixing cultural traditions in dishes like the Preserved Green Papaya Soup with Maine lobster and sago, Buckwheat Battered Chicken with karashi honey mustard sauce and Foie Gras Banh Mi as well as the grilled Lobster Mochi with Ginger Vinaigrette and Cod with Chili Crab Sauce. A Robata section serves bincho-grilled items, from grilled yuba and miso-cured duck breast to Wagyu beef with Onion Jam. The bar will also feature an East-meets-West approach, perfectly mirroring Myers’ menu. For its launch, the restaurant has roped in bartender extraordinaire Sam Ross, who has made a mark on the New York bar scene with his venue Attaboy, as its consultant. The result: refreshing aperitifs like the Pimms Imperial with Pimms No 1, lemon, champagne and local market fruits to reinvented classics such as the Singapore Sling, which interprets the famed drink with both aged and dark rum, benedictine, maraschino liqueur, and orange bitters. Playful travel tributes are referenced in a section of fruit cocktails, a nod to Tokyo’s Ginza district of cocktail craft, as well as swizzles, dedicated to the notable Carribean rum drink. 68
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“Marina Bay Sands is excited to collaborate with David Myers on our latest restaurant project. Adrift speaks to the travelers in all of us. With its diverse repertoire of innovative dishes and strong bar programme, Adrift looks set to enhance the celebrity chef programme at Marina Bay Sands. The decor is stunning and the ambience is inviting -- Adrift is a must-visit for guests looking to be inspired and recharged, whether they are looking for a quick drink and small bites, or to linger over conversations and a longer meal,” said Tamir Shanel, Vice President of Food & Beverage, Marina Bay Sands. The intriguing space is designed by Blueplate Studios, Wilson Associates’ specialty food and beverage design studio, to at once evoke the adventure of travel and the comfort of home. A unique sculptural enclosure that juxtaposes the larger-than-life atrium at Marina Bay Sands, Adrift unfolds from an illuminated wrapped wood and copper facade. Once inside, the expansive 4,000 square foot restaurant houses a collection of spaces that cater to a myriad of dining experiences, from artisanal mixology and delectable snacks at the bar, to a convivial feast of shared plates within the restaurant, and intimate dinners with friends or business partners at the private dining room enclosure. The centerpiece cocktail bar nostalgically recalls a vintage Ginza-style, with diffused lighting, leather bar stools, antiqued metal screens and charred timber accents. In the ethereal garden parlor, timber benches hang from the ceiling, while subtle floral accents allude to the wall of greenery outside. The private dining room houses a surrealist library with quirky objets d’art and vintage photographs that serve as an aperitif to intimate conversations. It’s a collection of treasures that tell the story of cultures past and present, a fitting mirror to the narrative behind Chef Myers’ cuisine.
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O dette Mascarenhas The Making of a Food Critic
Text Dielle D’Souza
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ith a list of award-winning books on Goan food as well as successful television shows and newspaper columns, Odette Mascarenhas wears many hats – management consultant, author, food critic, columnist, and TV anchor – with aplomb. She sits perched on the couch, leafing through yellowed newspaper cuttings of someone else’s past that has inadvertently created her present. Odette Mascarenhas may be Goa’s most well-known food critic, but as she tells her story it is evident it wasn’t the way she had ever imagined it would be. “When we were young, our mothers would tell us that the best way to get a nice man was by looking after his stomach, but I was not all that fond of cooking,” she confessed, explaining how she ended up at a hotel management institution in Bombay. But as things turned out, her mother’s prophetic words proved life-changing. It was through this career option that she landed a job at the Taj in Bombay, where she met her husband Joe Mascarenhas, who himself unknowingly set off a chain of events that has shaped who she is. Her award-winning book on his father Chef Minguel Arcanjo Mascarenhas led her onto the career path that has made her a household name in Goa. Today, Odette Mascarenhas is the chief operating officer of OnM Creative Consultants, a management consultancy firm, but is more famous as an author, food critic, columnist and television anchor on the state’s local channel Goa 365. Through her initiative called the Goan Culinary Club, she is working towards harmonising a blend between the vagaries of authentic home cooked Goan food with a marketable five-star standard. It all began in the late 70s from the pit of her vaguest memories of her father-in-law Minguel Arcanjo Mascarenhas, who everyone knew as Masci, the legendary chef of the Taj in Bombay with a restaurant named after him. “I never personally met him, but I remember him as a hobbling old man who commanded a lot of respect and reverence from everybody,” she said, taking a step back into her past. 73
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Winner of the ‘Gourmand World Cookbook Award 2008’ the special Jury award for the book on her father in law -Masci the Man behind the legend Her mother, she recalls, “was not a very good cook”, and she came into contact with the full taste of Goan food after she got married. Chef Masci was the one who had made the Goan prawn curry a hit with the Taj’s patrons way back in 1939. But by his own admission, his wife was a better cook and the family would enjoy a sumptuous Goan meal every Wednesday at their home in Bombay. Somewhere along the way, the family transferred to Madras, where the Taj opened the first Chettinad restaurant and they were exposed to a whole new style of cuisine. When they were moved to the Taj Exotica in Goa in 1990, she as Group Training Manager of the Western Region, her tryst with Goa and its cuisine officially began. “But even then, the Taj was not really catering to specialised Goan food per se, despite having the Beach House restaurant. The fantastic Chef Urbano Rego who worked under my father-in-law had his way of making some really special things for people such as tisreos that might not have been on the menu, but I would always wonder why we were not cultivating these into popular dishes. So I was in the picture, yet not in the picture,” she said. Then she watched Taj’s centenary video featuring her father-in-law and decided it was time to do some soul searching. After all, Chef Masci was pretty much the first Goan Indian chef to head a restaurant in the five-star hotel chain but there was nary an eatery that catered specially to all things we love about Goan food. She leafed through his life in newspaper cuttings, meeting people from the pictures and articles – from his doctor and other colleagues and patrons including a nawab, to letters written about him and for him including from J R D Tata, and learnt of a host of stories both professional and personal that built up the real man behind the name. Masci: The Man Behind The Legend was published in 2003, and it 2008 won the Special Jury Award at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in Paris. 74
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Drumstick Bhaji Photo Nolan Mascarenhas
From then on, there was no stopping her. “The Culinary Escapade of Goa (2009) was a guide book cooked up after the awards ceremony in Paris, when people would tell me that they had been to Goa but only ended up eating butter garlic prawns or squid, or fried fish. I realised that was the first thing we serve tourists who came in and perhaps that was all that was associated with Goan cuisine,” she said. The book was named the Gourmand Best Guide of India. During a lull between the book on Chef Masci and Goan Recipes and More in 2011 which received the Gourmand Best in Photography Award, she gave back to the children of the state through a fantastical mystery series based in Goa. The Alfie Alphonso series followed the adventures of a young boy who was very confused with life but had magical powers. “The first called Alfie Alphonso: The Search for the Mystical Crystal was about the potential within everyone that they unfortunately search for outside. The second – Alfie Alphonso: The Blot and The Canvas – was about how we destroy Goa and we need to be pollution free,” Mascarenhas explained. The books were such a success that reports online termed it ‘Goa’s Harry Potter’! Her latest penmanship was for The Culinary Heritage of Goa, a book showcasing lifestyles before the liberation of Goa from Portuguese rule, tracing various influences that have impacted Goan cuisine over the centuries with more than a hundred researched recipes. The coffee table 76
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book, released at the Goa Arts & Literary Festival in Goa last year, has now been shortlisted in the historical recipes category at the Best In The World Awards at Yantai, China, in June this year. Recently, together with her husband, she has begun the Goan Culinary Club, which pushes chefs from different regions in Goa to learn about cuisine from local people. Locals famous for their preparations are invited to club meetings and requested for a demonstration. She said, “Our ideology is to retain authentic cuisine and to get the right flavours. Today, anyone who feels their recipe is good, posts it on the internet, so you never know which is authentic. We invite openminded people to share their ideas and knowledge.” The next venture is a series of competitions this coming month, with chef awards in June. Through the Goan Culinary Club, Mascarenhas is looking to provide a platform to chefs from standalone restaurants who have the talent but are not getting recognition. There will also be a website where the recipes of Goan chefs are posted following screening for authentication. “It’s a rather large project,” she admits, but by a look at the accomplishments of Mascarenhas’ past, it doesn’t appear to forecast anything but success.
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Odette is at present the face of Goa…a food critic of the restaurants for the Times of India & the BBC Good food magazine...
to classify them into five types – Saraswat Hindu, Goan Hindu, Portuguese Goan, Christian Goan and Muslim Goan, the last being very underrated Odette Mascarenhas: In 2003, the Taj celebrated even though Muslims had an influential hold over its centenary year and came out with a CD. Out Goa for around 200-300 years. of 6,000 employees, only Mr J R D Tata and Chef Masci featured on it. They had even named a The recipes were also classified according to restaurant after him, and when I watched the film, talukas, since coconuts grown on the seashore it hit me that for the Taj to do all of this, he was offer a different yield compared to those grown inland, or the type of chillies used influences the larger than life. Joe, my husband, brought me two big scrapbooks colour and spice level of the dish. I discovered with newspaper cuttings of his father from 1939 nuances such as how to identify Goan bhindis onwards, and we thought we’d write a case study (ladies fingers) from other ones, which talukas are good for crabs and that the famous Moira bananas to show staff what they could achieve in life. are now being grown in Karnataka. I managed And although I had never ever written before, the to collect 16 different varieties of chillies used in story captivated me so beautifully that at the end I different preparations! had a 184-page document on his life that could in no way be just a case study. Everyone we showed A lot of things went into the book – lots of tastings, it to was very impressed and suggested we publish lots of calories, lots of gym work! But we finally it, but because the cost of going to a publisher was documented it and it was released as a coffee table book at the Goa Arts and Literary Festival in way too much, we decided to do it ourselves. December 20xx. We printed just 2000 copies since we didn’t think there would be very many people wanting to read WO’GOA: Have you ever written a review that did something about a man who is no more. This was not go down too well with the restaurant? in 2003. Odette Mascarenhas: I once reviewed a newlyWO’GOA: What inspired you to write a book about your father-in-law?
It was only after the book which we called Masci: The Man Behind The Legend was selected for the Special Jury Award by Gourmand World Cookbook in 2008 that it became a success, and now we have no copies left at all!
opened restaurant in Bambolim and found that with the exception of one or two dishes that were tasty, the others were mediocre. I have it a score of 2.5 out of 5 – after all, I am a critic.
But the next day, the owner called me and asked WO’GOA: Tell us about your latest book The whether I thought I had been fair. Being a critic and person who knows about food, people definitely Culinary Heritage of Goa. take my views into consideration. ‘I left my job to Odette Mascarenhas: I wanted generations to open a restaurant and I’m earning money in my come to at least know something about our own hard way. Restaurants have high turnovers heritage, what with old kitchens being broken and chefs and staff come and go, so you might not down and new appliances being used. I wanted to get standards and consistency? Do you think what capture our heritage with recipes, and managed you’re doing is right, is Christian?’ he had asked. 78
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When you look at the role of a critic, it’s a very fine line. In Bombay, with so many people, a critic can tear a restaurant to shreds and they’ll still do business. Here in Goa, people pay a certain amount to rent out the place and then you shred it to pieces… It was a learning experience. Sadly in Goa, restaurants offer a whole lot of cuisines on one menu with the mistaken view that since it is a tourist place, we have to cater to everybody in a single place. So now, when I go to a restaurant to review it, I ask what its USP is. I might taste 10 preparations but might write about six which are good. If I really find that it is not good, you can read between the lines and you will know. WO’GOA: Opinion of the dish. Odette Mascarenhas: From the image, I gather that is it a simple restaurant with no perhaps no frills and fancies. Even so, the onions look rather miserable. Katories, especially of stainless steel, are normally used in a thali. Perhaps they could have used a small white bowl – these things are not too costly. In terms of the colour of the fish, I think the contrast with the white plate is perfect. But the lime is totally lost in the onion rings. Perhaps, if the lime was cut into a better shape than a wedge and placed on the fish, it would have had more of an appeal to the eye. From the looks of it, this is a tandoori fish, unless it is inspired. I have never seen coriander on a tandoori fish; it is usually chopped and put on gravy. Perhaps he’s using the green to highlight the colour combination, but in terms of marrying of flavours, I’m not sure. If he had used a sprig as a garnish instead, it would have been fantastic.
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Joël Robuchon Most Decorated Michelin-Star Chef
Conferred Chef of the Century by the Gault Millau guide in 1990, Joël Robuchon is the world’s most decorated chef and a legend in the culinary world. Internationally acclaimed for his French haute cuisine, legendary chef/restaurateur Joël Robuchon has achieved countless monumental milestones that many can only dream of. He was the youngest chef ever at 38 years old to receive three Michelin stars for his first restaurant Jamin and being crowned Chef of the Century by the prestigious Guide Gault Millau has made him a culinary icon. At the tender age of 15, he cultivated his skills and aspirations through apprenticeships with the top chefs in the country. After a decade’s dedicated training, Robuchon won the coveted Meilleur Ouvrier de France, the country’s highest distinction that recognises the best craftsman. At the peak of his career at age 50, Robuchon announced his retirement but the hiatus was short-lived. In 1994, he opened Joël Robuchon in Paris. Publications, cookbooks, the development of a product line and television appearances followed. In 2001, Joel Robuchon entered Asia with the opening of Robuchon à Galera in Macau. 81
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French haute cuisine with unparalleled precision 82
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LE HOMARD - roasted lobster with small spinach leaves flavored with black pepper sauce 83
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His innovative L’Atelier dining concept in Tokyo and then Paris opened two years later. The Robuchon name has since made its mark in more than 10 cities with 26 restaurants, pastry boutiques and bars. Joël Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa is where fine dining becomes a sublime experience. The very best of French haute cuisine through a repertoire of inventive French classics and an extensive wine list of over 1,000 premium wines from around the globe.
Oscetra caviar, smooth cauliflower in gelée
Executive Chef Michael Michaelidis possesses the ingenious gift of marrying simple flavours and presenting food as visual artistry on a plate. The restaurant itself is an extension of Michelin Star Chef Robuchon’s dream family dining room in an art decostyle hotel. Dressed in warm beige tones, the designer interior creates a cosy yet luxurious atmosphere. Adjoining the main dining area is Robuchon’s indoor winter garden, the perfect venue for intimate private parties.
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Pan fried turbot with lemongrass and stewed baby leeks 85
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Lightness of cheesecake with vanilla from Tahiti, coloured fruit in season 86
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Recommend the degustation menu, which many critics have described as “pure magic”. Sample the exquisite masterpieces and seasonal items from the la carte menu and be awed by Robuchon’s famous bread, cheese, dessert, ice-cream and tea trolleys. This highly-acclaimed restaurant is an extension of Robuchon’s dream family dining room in an art décor style hotel. Dressed in mainly beige tones, the interior design creates a warm, luxurious and comfortable atmosphere.
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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon a new realm of Avant-Garde French dining the open gourmet kitchen lets you watch the chefs create culinary masterpieces
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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, a concept developed by Chef Robuchon in 2003. Drawing inspiration from the simplicity in Japanese cuisine and the vibrant atmosphere in Spanish tapas bars, the Atelier (meaning workshop) was born. This two-time winner in the Best Dining Experience category at the Singapore Experience Awards (2012 and 2013), is a unique dining concept where it features a ‘convivial’ atmosphere, chef Robuchon wanted to stage the chefs in a central kitchen where chefs can experiment and create, working on new ideas and fusing different concepts reflective of the locale in full view of the guests. While guests, seated at the counter, can see their food being transformed ‘under the spotlight’.
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The sphere coated with ivory chocolate and tangy raspberries 91
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King crab on a turnip disc with sweet and sour sauce 92
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This presentation immerses guests in a dining experience where guests are part of the action, separated by a counter between kitchen and main dining area. Joël Robuchon has likened L’Atelier to an artist’s studio, where diners can witness chefs create, prepare and cook innovative dishes right before them, and chefs have the pleasure of watching diners enjoy their meal. Consequently, the level of interaction between chefs and diners will be heightened, encouraging the chefs to better their craft. What Joël Robuchon wants to convey at L’Atelier is the atmosphere of conviviality that lets diners relax, be liberated and enjoy a great meal. At L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, we enter a whole new realm of fine dining. After shocking the culinary world with his retirement at 50 years of age, Joël Robuchon returned to the kitchen with the idea to create L’Atelier. Drawing inspiration from the simplicity of Japanese cuisine and the vibrant atmosphere in Spanish tapas bars, the Atelier, meaning “workshop”, was born. “This concept has convinced me that its informality and conviviality, where you can have just one dish or a whole dinner, is the way people want to eat today. In addition, you have the theatrical aspect, of being able to watch the food prepared.” – Joël Robuchon on L’Atelier.
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Free-range quail filled with foie gras and caramelized, served with mashed potatoes 94
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The L’Atelier interior décor lies in the hands of world-renowned designer Pierre-Yves Rochon who designed the first L’Atelier in Paris in 2003. Kitted out entirely in black and red furnishings to streamline the signature dramatic sleek look for the Atelier concept, the restaurant also dresses its servers in black. The a la carte menu offers classic and tasting portions, with a focus on presenting premium ingredients in their simplest form to flesh out the essence of the produce.
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FABRICE VULIN - FOUR SEASONS HONG KONG
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Fabrice Vulin Beginning his appointment as Caprice Chef de Cuisine, Fabrice Vulin - whose name is drived from the Latin faber, or craftsman arrived in Hong Kong from the turquoise shores of the Côte d’Azur, bringing with him a distinct design on traditional French cuisine with a compelling Moroccan flare. Hailing from Briançon in the French Alps, Vulin grew up as the only brother to three girls and the son of a professional athlete, a familyranking he today credits as the reason for his fierce competitive streak and constant strive for perfection - both of which have brought him to his stature in today’s culinary world. Vulin’s thirty-year career history is richly varied with stints in many restaurants, scattered throughout with frequent podium placements in gastronomic competitions and receiving culinary awards. At the age of thirty, his first head chef role found him running the kitchens of Hemingway’s favourite Parisian café, La Closerie des Lilas. Vulin continued in places of note across Paris until the millennium turned, when he moved to the famed three Michelin-starred MaisonPic in Valence as head chef. After three years he moved closer to home in Geneva where he was appointed executive chef at Restaurant Hotel du Parc des Eaux-Vives, ultimately earning them two Michelin stars in his final year. 97
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Poached Farm Egg, Zucchini Provençal, Anchovies and Oscietra Caviar 98
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Finding himself eager to travel and be influenced by a city he loved, Vulin took up opening his own restaurant in Marrakech, Morocco, where he spent four years, establishing an independent French restaurant as well as a stand-alone Moroccan restaurant, both too much acclaim. When the position became available at La Chèvre d’Or “between sea and sky,” Vulin felt the opportunity too good to pass up and so returned to France where his talent was recognized by elevating the restaurant to a two Michelin star status at the next announcement. Eventually moving even further afield, to Hong Kong to join Four Seasons at the world-renowned Caprice, was not a difficult decision for Chef Fabrice Vulin: “The fortuity of this placement is for me, a remarkable one that will allow me to bring a new style to an audience who are both well established in the understanding and tastes of French cuisine but equally eager to learn and see more. I am excited, at the same time, to see where the fascinating diversity of Hong Kong takes the expression of my style.”
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t a th f n i ta e o r e m c a e b is n n a to h n... c ce up sma i r p es ft a a v r C i l c t a n e i ru rs Vul t e din rice ing a Fab be
PressĂŠ de Jarret de Porc et Foie Gras Pork Knuckle and Duck Foie Gras Terrine, Potato Salad 100
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Roasted Atlantic Turbot, Salsify, Grenoble Walnuts, Black Truffle and Jerusalem Artichoke Mousseline 102
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Caprice, the French two-Michelin starred French 65-seat restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong is designed by Spin Design Studio, overlooks the spectacular Victoria Harbour and includes a wood-paneled private dining room for seating up to 12 guests, as well as an open kitchen leading to the exclusive Chef’s Table for up to eight people. Aside from its numerous accolades, Caprice is famed for housing Asia’s largest selection of artisanal French cheeses, an extensive and award-winning wine list and boasts the adjoining Caprice Bar. 103
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Fabrice Vulin launched his first à la carte menu at Caprice on February 11, 2014, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. Fresh from the Côte d’Azur and bursting with Mediterranean flavours, Vulin’s inaugural menu at Caprice was a splash of sunshine during Hong Kong’s winter. Incorporating winter black truffle in this seasonal menu, his dishes are light and yet richly defined by bold ingredients from his homeland, the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean. Having spent much of his career in famed restaurants across France, as well as years in the fresh mountain air of Switzerland and sand dunes of Morocco, Chef Vulin balances a variety of flavours to delight and surprise Caprice diners.
Egg-White Blanc-Manager, Runny Egg Yolk and Perigord Black Truffle
Appetizers on his first seasonal à la carte menu include: a classic French egg blancmanger with Périgord black truffle, chilled risotto, seabass carpaccio, spider crab and kristal caviar; and Vulin’s 8th version of the Niçoise salad with Tourteau crab and avocado, which features a garden of salad with crab cannelloni. Occasionally Chef Vulin’s entrées have a slight hint of the Maghreb about them with a clear influence from his Marrakech days: line-caught sea bass, leek fondant, lemon confit and Medjoul dates; and caramelized pigeon breast, Moroccan spices and raz el hanout infusion; but to equal measure he combines the Mediterranean earth and sea with a truffled turbot, salsify, Grenoble walnuts and jerusalem artichoke mousseline; or a john dory aiguillettes, wild thyme and chorizo and piperade lasagne. 104
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Alsace Duck Foie Gras, Dry Fruit Nougat, Fig Compote and Duck Jelly
Pigeon with Foie Gras, Black Truffle, Leek and Potato 105
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On his à la carte, Chef Vulin will serve a cut of the day for two people, alongside Cévenne onions, black truffle, potato mousseline and sucrine salad; as well as a signature take on La Poularde de Bresse in three servings - Bresse chicken leg, vol-au-vent and double consommé, egg confit with Choisy lettuce, and steamed chicken breast with foie gras and vegetable bouquetière, served for either two or four people. Caprice will also feature an eight-course tasting menu, available for the complete table only, La Signature du Chef includes a cheese course, dessert and coffee. Vulin’s menu is complemented by the extraordinary range of desserts served at Caprice, exquisite plates of colour, texture and unusual flavours, which change according to the season. Caprice is managed by Sebastien Boudon and will continue to offer Asia’s unparalleled cheese experience with a selection of more than 25 artisanal French cheeses, delivered on a weekly basis directly from the affineurs in France.
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Brittany Lobster à la Royale, Crispy Claws, Bisque, Citrus Tomato and Seasonal Vegetables 107
CAT CORA - RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA, SINGAPORE
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Cat Cora
First Female Chef Inducted to the American Academy of Chefs Culinary Hall of Fame Ocean Restaurant by Cat Cora, part of the world’s largest oceanarium, is the Iron Chef’s first restaurant in Asia. Guests get to enjoy a full view of the marine life whilst eating, creating a truly memorable dining experience. The restaurant showcases many of her signature dishes which have MediterraneanCalifornian influences with an Asian flair. The restaurant also follows the chef’s farm-to-table philosophy on ingredients, which makes her food truly authentic and sensational.
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CAT CORA - RESORTS WORLD SENTOSA, SINGAPORE
As a prominent figure in the culinary community, Cat Cora made television history in 2005 when she became the first and only female Iron Chef on Food Network’s Iron Chef America. Since then, Cora has continued to evolve her craft to become an accomplished author, restaurateur, contributing editor, avid philanthropist, television host and proud mother of four. As a successful restaurateur, Cora previously opened Cat Cora’s Que situated in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, California as well Cat Cora’s Kitchen with three locations including San Francisco International Airport, George Bush International Airport and Salt Lake City International
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Airport which is also home to Cat Cora’s Kitchen Gourmet Market. The acclaimed chef collaborated with Disney to create, Kouzzina by Cat Cora, a Mediterranean restaurant located at Disneyworld Boardwalk in Orlando, Florida. Growing up in an small Greek community in Jackson, Mississippi, where she developed a passion for the culinary arts while watching her family and relatives infuse Southern spices with Mediterranean delicacies, Cat Cora acted on advice from her mentor Julia Child and left for New York as a young adult to study at the Culinary Institute of America. She continued her culinary education in Europe, completing apprenticeships
Tartare of Hokkaido Scallop,Truffle mushroom and cauliflower espuma
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Multigrain and Butternut Soup, Pumpkin seed Chantilly and Pumpkin seed oil 112
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Roasted Lamb Neck, Vanilla Glazed Red Onion and Coco Bean with Fregola Cassoulet 113
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from two of France’s renowned three-star Michelin chefs, and eventually returned to New York before travelling west to Napa Valley, California. As a philanthropist, Cora has founded Chefs for Humanity, a non-profit dedicated to reducing hunger worldwide by supporting humanitarian relief and promoting nutrition education. In July 2012, she became the first female chef to be inducted into the American Academy of Chefs Culinary Hall of Fame. Ocean Restaurant by Cat Cora is the latest dining concept developed by Resorts World Sentosa and Cat Cora - renowned celebrity chef and the first female Iron Chef in Singapore. Characterized by light and healthy dishes using the freshest produce from around the region, guests can look forward to Cat Cora’s signature dishes such as Smoked Eel - On Sunchoke Jelly & Shaved Duck Liver Terrine and 42°C Sous Vide Salmon - Salmon Mousse, Citrus Minestrone, Ikura & Shaved Fennel Salad. With the restaurant located inside the S.E.A. Aquarium where they can discover more than 100,000 marine animals, diners can savour a magnificent view of the Open Ocean habitat whilst enjoying a truly memorable dining experience.
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After Eight Mint Variation with Chocolate 115
TANGO ARGENTINIAN STEAK HOUSE - HONG KONG
TANGO Argentinian Steak House Introducing Rustic Tradition & Prime La Pampa Beef to Hong Kong’s Dining Hot Spot 116
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14oz Argentina Ribeye
Churros con Chocolate 118
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Banana con Dulce de Leche
Tango introduces the seductive, rustic tradition of authentic Argentina steakhouses to 77 Wyndham Street, Central, serving prime cuts of beef over a traditional open fired oven, matched by an impressive Argentinian wine list.
with a mixologist menu inspired by one of the world’s most legendary cocktail capitals. Executive Chef Martin, from Buenos Aires, brings to Tango a flair and passion for cuisine from his Argentina homeland together with experience from some of America’s finest restaurants.
With strong European influences, Argentina has made a simple contribution to world gastronomy – uncomplicated flavours, natural ingredients and He delights in preparing wonderful steaks from of course, beef from La Pampa, the world’s most Argentina on the custom-built open fired oven at Tango and has a simple philosophy – to pass his famous grazing pasture. passion, flair and skills on to his guests through his Tango brings this memorable Argentinian dining cooking. experience to Hong Kong with Latino passion and vibrancy, quality ingredients, authentic dishes Martin started working in California, under famed served at traditional distressed timber tables and chef Luc Dendievel after graduation from culinary school in Argentina. He then trained under Daniel slick service. Boulud, chef-owner of award-winning New York The «heart» is the Parrilla fireplace where meats are City Michelin star restaurants, and honed his skills at prestigious Gioia Restaurant in the Park Hyatt, grilled over aromatic wood flames. Buenos Aires. Prime quality Argentinian rump, fillet, sirloin, rib eye, skirt or ribs are from grass fed sustainable Tango is designed by prominent Hong Kong beef, hand selected from a source ranch and architect team of Zanghellini and Holt. Argentinian lovingly grilles over the open flames of the Parilla. Hernan Zanghellini concepts revolve entirely around customer ease and comfort – with distressed timber Mains are complemented by quintessential tables, dimpled bricks, cream ceramics and dusty Argentinian empanada, appetizers, salads and blue trimmings adding a rustic ambience. pastas, including a selection of zesty seafood ceviche and unashamedly self-indulgent desserts. Add to this homely, restful banquettes, an open air patio, open kitchen and casual streetscape views Along with an impressive selection of finest overlooking Wyndham Street and the result is rustic Argentinian, Spanish and Italian wines, Tango South American mood and conviviality. introduces Buenos Aires cocktail culture to Central
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BOUCHON BISTRO FRANCAIS - HONG KONG
a Touch of Paris to Soho Bouchon Bistro Francais presents to Hong Kong diners a unique French dining experience, nestled in a typically cosy French atmosphere, adding a Parisian touch to Elgin Street, Soho, Central. Located in the heart of the popular Soho dining precinct, Bouchon introduces a slice of French elegance. Bouchon Bistro Francais is a small boutique style restaurant in traditional Parisian style. Seating 40, the design reflects the ambience of a typical French bistro, with beautiful use of timbers, wrought iron, etched glass and unique metal ceiling tiles to greet you on arrival. A small outdoor terrace is also available at the rear. Under the guidance of Chef Taran Chadha and his team, the menu is designed to delight. Taran, after studies in New York, gained
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experience in a number of selected restaurants in the USA before moving back to his home city of Hong Kong where he embarked on a journey through a number of this city’s leading restaurants. Taran’s philosophy is to keep his cuisine simple and use the freshest ingredients available. With a flair for French influences in his cooking style, Taran continues to introduce innovative dishes to the menu at Bouchon. A feature at Bouchon is the Chef’s Table, designed for 6 guests and personally catered by the Chef Taran through the open kitchen (advance reservations required). Chef Taran’s menu is a great way to take a stroll through the tastes of French cuisine and wines. Choose from a superb selection of Hors d’Œuvres including Paté de Campagne, Escargots de Bourgogne, Soupe à l’Oignon or classical French salads. Enjoy a selection of mains including the traditional Moules Marinière - mussels seasoned with white wine and chili, Blanquette de Veau slow cooked veal shank with Basmati rice; Confit de Canard - crispy duck leg with flageolet beans, or Gnocchi à la Parisienne - soft dough dumpling›s with local mushrooms and white truffle oil. Pick from a tempting sides selection including buttered spinach, marinated olives and Provencal fries. Complete this superb meal with one of the Chef’s favorite desserts: Crème Brûlée - a rich custard base topped with a contrasting layer of hard caramel, Mousse au Chocolat - 72% dark chocolate mousse or Tarte Tatin aux pommes caramelized apple pastry with Calvados. Enjoy an impressive selection of French and world wines to pair with these fantastic dishes.
Boeuf Bourguignon -Braised Beef Shank, Bacon, Mash
Bouchon Bistro Francais specialises in private parties, romantic dinners, business lunches, relaxed weekend dining, or a quiet glass of wine in a beautiful setting.
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CRAFTSTEAK - HONG KONG
CRAFTSTEAK New Look & Amazing Steaks... Craftsteak, Hong Kong’s boutique steak house, has a stunning new look and is cooking up a storm for steak lovers in Soho, Central. With its chic contemporary new look, the stylish steak house restaurant in Elgin Street advocates the best way to dine is good food served in a simple and straightforward manner. The new menu, superbly designed and prepared by Corporate Chef Taran Chadha, allows diners to select their cuisine from the freshest cuts of meat and poultry, fish, seafood and vegetables, prepared in a different cooking method on an open-fire charcoal grill and served with a selection of individual sauces and gravies. The result is a unique dining experience cooked to order, a meal that helps diners step back in time when going out for dinner meant something really special. To retain and enhance the true flavors of ingredients, the charcoal-fired boiler was custom made for Craftsteak. The one-of-a-kind, impressive broiler plays the leading role in the open kitchen, which offers diners an unobstructed view of the cooking theatrics. The charcoal fired grill creates wonderful hints of smoke flavor to the freshest cuts of the finest steaks from Australia and USA. Chef Taran prepares uncomplicated, quality cuisine in a casual but stylish ambience for patrons to relax and enjoy. The superb steaks and mains are complemented by a choice of classic starters, soups, salads and side dishes and a sumptuous selection of homemade desserts. Craftsteak continues to delight discerning diners and presents the perfect place for perfect grills, ideal for business lunches or dinners, intimate dining, events and cocktails. 124
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Fried ”Chipotle” Sprouts
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Heritage Tomato Caprese
Korean Beef Shortrib 125
WILL MEYRICK - MAMA SAN, HONG KONG
Will Meyrick A Street Food Chef Takes Hong Kong by storm...
Not afraid to head into unchartered territory and learn on the fly as he goes, Will’s career has led him from London to Sydney and then extensively through South East Asia. After successful periods with two of Sydney’s leading restaurants (Longrain and Jimmy Liks) Will was wooed back to the continent by some interesting opportunities that led to stints in Bali, Thailand and Hong Kong. It was the small island of Bali in Indonesia that claimed Will’s heart and he chose to settle there. Fast-forward to 2013, and he’s a household name across the country and without a doubt, one of the most respected maestros of the South East Asian scene. With three successful restaurants under his belt – the award-winning fine dining flagship Sarong, its younger sibling Mama San, the new addition to the family, the E&O Jakarta in the nation’s capital and soon Mama San Hong Kong to be the forth venture – this is one chef that has also earned his restaurant chops. Mama San, one of award winning Chef Will Meyrick’s Bali based restaurants, now has an equally glamorous Hong Kong sister. Mama San›s Restaurant & Bar is located in the heart of Hong Kong’s dining precinct - Central. Being a street food enthusiast, Chef Meyrick manifests his in-depth research of traditional recipes and culinary heritage during countless travels throughout Asia, collecting the spices, flavours and textures of the local food and cooking styles. He then melts them in a style that is now synonymous with his reputation – a street food chef. During his endeavors, Chef Will allies with his long term Thai “partner in crime” Palm Amatawet and Executive Chef Budi from Indonesia. The chefs scour the villages and street food stalls from India to Indonesia, Myanmar to Malaysia, and Vietnam to Thailand. The menu is truly Asia with aromatic spices and flavours, hints of chili and garlic together with soothing, fresh flavours of salads and starters. 126
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Crispy whole snapper with three-flavor sauce wild giger turmeric pineapple chilli and tamarind 128
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Among signature dishes prepared by Chef Budi are amazing Oysters Nahm Jihm with coriander and crispy shallots; Crispy Salmon with green mango and sweet fish sauce; Stir Fried King Prawn with Padang style sauce and Steamed Whole Snapper with three-flavour sauce, wild ginger, turmeric, pineapple, chilli and tamarind. Not-to-be missed mains feature Slow Braised Veal Cheek with Indonesian rendang spices; ‘Babi Guling’ Suckling Pig with sambal matah; Wood Roasted Rib Eye with nam jihm jauw and Cambodian Duck with sweet potatoes, shallots and peanuts. The choice is endless. Desserts are created with the fragrant flavours of Asia – Lemongrass Panacotta with cucumber lime jelly and citrus lemon basil sorbet; Chai Tea Caramel Custard and Home Made Banana Pudding. All accompanied by a diverse choice of exotic cocktails, global wines and topped with the house-famous Sundanese Hijau Coffee, a locally grown product from Indonesia’s rich culture. Complete with a stunning balcony overlooking the busy street scene, private dining room, eclectic range of Indonesian images and Mama overlooking the dining scene, Mama San is perfect for intimate dining, business dinners, parties and events. “Mama San illustrates a story of a madam of authority in an Asian gentlemen’s club, who takes care of her girls with affection,” Meyrick 129
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Dendeng balado caramelized short rib beef with pounded chilli kaffir lime & lemon basil
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said. “That’s pretty much how I see myself in keeping the authenticity of the cuisine culture in the restaurants I manage by learning from women all over the region, who are willing to pass on their knowledge,” he continued. The restaurant admires and adapts to Hong Kong its elder sister›s ambiance of edgy colonial times in Shanghai during the 1920s, in a purposefully designed industrial ceiling warehouse. Gaze up to Mama San in all her glory staring down at patrons while dining and ponder over a travelogue of old style photographs. Add into the mix a debut cookbook, Sarong Inspirations, that is about to hit its second print run, and starred roles on national TV programs including the Indonesian series of the global Top Chef franchise, and what you have is something even more unique: a culinary talent that has shown himself to be a truly unique, multi-faceted and dynamic industry personality.
Beef tartar with sambal ulek mustard seed shallots home made taro chips and white anchovies
Will continues to explore the culinary landscape of Asia, taking inspiration from the unique food culture of each destination. You’ll find him at street stalls, in neighbourhood kitchens and backyards, at markets, getting off the beaten track to get to the heart of the dishes that move and shake him, tracking down the original recipes that are handed down through generations.
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SUNDARA - FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY
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Iconic beachfront restaurant Enjoy a menu of eclectic international cuisine at Sundara, our spectacular new beachfront restaurant. The name is the Sanskrit word for “beautiful” and pays tribute to the glowing sun that warms this Indian Ocean hotspot. Helmed by Executive Chef Pasquo King, Sundara offers the perfect mix of five-star flair and relaxed beach-club vibe. The expansive indooroutdoor design combines a restaurant, bar, patio and a row of day beds for lounging by the Infinity Edge.The focus is always on views of the beach and the wide curve of Jimbaran Bay. Sundara, the beachfront restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, is an all-day lifestyle destination on the island’s most exclusive stretch of sand. The name is the Sanskrit word for “beautiful,” an apt description of the lush flora, sparkling surf and glowing sun that adorn this Indian Ocean hotspot. Immediately positioned as one of Bali’s top dining destinations, Sundara offers the perfect mix of spectacular cuisine and relaxed beach-club vibe. With its direct beachfront location and panoramic views of Jimbaran Bay, Sundara provides a sexy and sophisticated hideaway featuring daybeds, dining, cocktails, DJs and special events throughout the day until late night. Warm and welcoming service ensures a relaxed and friendly environment with unexpected polish. 133
SUNDARA - FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT JIMBARAN BAY
“Sundara is a must-visit destination in Bali,” says Michael Branham, General Manager of Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. “We’ve created a very social place, one that attracts a stylish crowd from well beyond our resort. Sundara is one of the unique ways Four Seasons continues to evolve and deliver an exciting experience for our guests.” Executive Chef Pasquo King and Director of Operations Joshua Cochran are responsible for creating Sundara’sdining and drinking experience - one that is modern yet relaxing, cutting edge yet natural. Sundara is a lifestyle destination that brings the best of Australian beach culture to Bali’s beautiful shores. Its grill-focused cuisine and laidback attitude are Australian in style and sensibility, while its warm service, local ingredients, stunning location and traditional architecture are unmistakably Balinese. Chef King’smodern Australian menu is as healthy as it is delicious, featuring local organic produce and freshly caught seafood, premium Australian meats and house-made breads, pickles, preserves and spreads. For lunch, choose from shared plates of briny oysters and creative sushi rolls, hearty salads and crisp wood-fired pizzas, served on the open-air rooftop deck with panoramic views. Sundara serves one of the best burgers in Bali – the chopped wagyu beef is served on a toasted brioche bun and topped with Emmental cheese, housepickled zucchini and relish. Come afternoon, guests may stake out a chic double daybed by the Infinity Edge to enjoy the sun and cool off in the water. Poolside service at Sundara includes complimentary sun care products, fresh towels and misters, as well as ice water, frozen treats and even a professional sunglasses cleaning, so you can soak up the perfect view. Casual light bites and Sundara’s superlative hand-crafted cocktails are available throughout the day. 134
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Sundara’s cocktail program was created by Barcelona cocktail master Javier de lasMuelas (Gimlet, Dry Martini), known for his avant-garde cocktails combining intricate preparations, unique textures and complex flavours. Local Balinese ingredients such as star fruit, passion fruit and chili feature prominently in the drinks menu. Signature cocktails include Jim-Let Fox-Trot, a modern variation of the traditional gimlet featuring soft frozen gin and lime atop a glass of ice and premium tonic; the brilliant yellow Thousand Nights comprised of dark rum, passion fruit, lime juice, star anise and green cardamom; and the creamy, gin-based Coconut Rhapsody, refreshing in its simplicity and perfect balance. In the evening, Sundara transforms into one of Bali’s most sophisticated dining experiences. Expect an abundance of vibrant, innovative and classic flavours, with a focus on grilled meats and seafood. Standouts include Grilled Octopus Salad with tomato, caramelized onion, toasted pinenuts and parsley; Penne with Zucchini Blossoms, tomatoes and Jerusalem artichokes; and Swordfish Loin with potato, olives and oregano. Not to be missed is the grilled double rack of Australian Free-range Saltbush Lamb served with Sundara sixvegetable chopped salad and béarnaise, herbed butter and smoky bacon red wine sauces.Later into the evening, DJs, fire pits and candlelight provide a romantic relaxed mood to linger over drinks and cigars. Designed by Koichi Yasuhiro from Tokyo’s renowned Design Studio SPIN, the beachfront Sundara features 29,437 square feet (2,923 square meters) on two levels, including a variety of indoor and outdoor settings, ideal for large gatherings or private events. Two soaring Balinese-style pavilions create a distinctive roofline, while inside the décor combines Bali’s unique artistic heritage with an ambience of relaxed luxury. The focus is always on views of the beach and the wide curve of Jimbaran Bay.
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BELLBROOK, BISTRO OZ BY LARIS - HONG KONG
Contemporary Australian Cuisine at Bellbrook, Bistro Oz by Laris
Australian Chef, David Laris, celebrated chef, entrepreneur, designer and creator of numerous award-winning food and beverage concepts, is at the helm of Dining Concept’s popular restaurant, the BellBrook, in Central. Creating a unique Australian dining experience – flavorsome, no fuss food with indigenous specialties, daily blackboard specials created to tantalize and surprise the palate, flared together by multi-cultural influences stemming from David Laris’ Australian origins and the village of BellBrook, the restaurant is filled with a relaxed vibe and a contagious energy for foodies and friends looking for a new no fuss dining experience. Situated in the heart of Hong Kong’s dining precinct at 77 Wyndham Street, Central, the BellBrook presents moments to enjoy all day long – great lunches, weekend brunch, happy hour, dinner with friends and for those who like to linger, late night supper club until the small hours on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
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David Laris
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Crispy Steak Tartar 140
Triple Fried Potato with Truffle Salt
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In the kitchen, David’s team has created dishes drawn from homemade and childhood experiences – Table Bites, Table Salads, Bigger Bites and famous family desserts – all designed to share, so expect the unexpected! And it is not just about the food, the drinks offer something else – juices, sodas, floats, shots, great Australian beers, ciders and wines, killer cocktails and punch by the carafe. There is a special supper menu for specific late night suppers where diners can expect upbeat vibes and fun appetisers, enough to get through to the late hours. For total family fun and enjoyment, the BellBrook presents ‘The Great Aussie BBQ Brunch’ every weekend, packed with sizzling delights and great Aussie beer and wine to match. The space features a comfortable welcoming bar at the entrance, focusing on cocktails Australian style, an enclosed balcony designed for relaxation leaning over the busy life on Wyndham Street, vintage Australian memorabilia and artifacts and an open kitchen with mouthwatering aromas wafting over the nearby tables. In summary, the BellBrook provides an allnew dining and entertainment experience dedicated to fun, fabulous food and a touch of frivolity.
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MANGO MANIA - GOA
Mango Mania the season of the king of fruits is much-awaited in Goa 142
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The warm, fragrant aroma of ripening mangoes is all too familiar to folk who have spent their childhood years in Goa. Village homes still awaken to that summer smell, and grandmothers duck under the bed to inspect the year’s maturing crop resting on a thick thatch of hay. It is not long before the expectant faces of little children turn to sheer joy as they skip off with the ripe golden treasure.
the intensely sweet to mouth-watering sweet-sour and shockingly tart. Its textures also range from rich, loose and pulpy to firm, fibrous and mushy. Gourmet cuisines have their wondrous taste now enriching sorbets, Bellinis, daiquiris, marshmallows, tarts, sundaes, salsas, cakes, galettes, quinoa, pavlova and many more.
But in Goa, where the people take pride in their India is the world’s largest exporter of mangoes, home-grown varieties of this king of fruits, they with the biggest import destinations being the are still best regarded in the traditional dishes that United Arab Emirates. The country has already are feasted on during the summer. India’s most waved goodbye to mangoes worth US$ 43.9 million famous mango - that is shipped across the world (Rs 2.7 billion) in the first six months of the current is without doubt the Alphonso, so considered for its fiscal, and over 2013-14 exported 41,280 tonnes sweetness, texture and flavour. With nomenclature of the fruit. The recent lifting of the European Union that has now corrupted to include hapoos, it was ban on Indian mangoes, imposed in May 2014, initially named after Afonso de Albuquerque who will see a meteoric rise in exports from the country. helped establish Portuguese colonies – including Goa – in India. There are dozens of recipes that now abound, using the delicious fruit, whose varieties vary from Despite what is said about the Alphonso mango, 144
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the most prized variety in Goa is none other than the Mancurada, which comes from the Portuguese term ‘mal corada’ or ‘poorly coloured’ to reflect its boring yellow skin. So delicious is its taste and its texture so ideally supple that the first fruit of the season could go for a hefty Rs 400 a piece! The price drops during the season, although due to high demand in Goa, the crop soon runs out, but not before being relished by hundreds of residents across the state and even more so by visiting Goans settled outside.
are Jesuit, Toranja, Ratna, Sindhu, Kesar, Neelam and Amrapali. Monserrate or ‘mussurada’ was often used to make jams, while the Karel and Konkan Ruchi varieties were used in pickles. Most families had their own grafts of mangoes and named the fruit after their last names.
Even though the fruit is feasted on at table, its juices dribbling down the elbows of the youngest children, it also features in umpteen dishes, mostly raw, but also sometimes in half-ripened form as well as fully matured. The most famous of these dishes The Goan branch of the Indian Council of is the mango curry. Despite being made the year Agricultural Research (ICAR) identified as many as through, Goan fish curry takes on a heavenly taste 82 varieties of mangoes in the state, which they when flavoured with slices of raw mango. Often, have collected and created germ plasms of. The just the seeds with a bit of flesh – or ‘paddes’ – are department helps farmers with specific varieties, dropped into the afternoon curry to add that extra the most commercially desired being Mancurada hint of sourness. and Hilario, the latter commonly called ‘mangilar’. Hindus, who often use mango leaves in religious Others that have been very popular over the years ceremonies and hang them from their door posts 145
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for luck, also make a similar gravy dish called amlechi uddamethi or a raw mango curry using urad dal (black gram) and methi (fenugreek) seeds. In Saraswat Hindu households, small sucking mangoes called ‘ghota’ are used to make ghotachem saasav. This particular variety of mango is small and often so pulpy it cannot be cut with a knife. The resulting curry is a blend of sweet, sour and a little spice, and is eaten with rice or chapatis. For a taste of mangoes throughout the year, and to keep the crop from rotting, families traditionally made jams and pickles, harvesting the free hands of older children on vacation to do everything including mango picking, peeling, slicing and dicing, stirring and bottling. There was always the sweet mangaad or mango jam that took an entire day to make in the village. Dozens upon dozens of juicy ripe mangoes were rolled into a pulp with sugar on the large grinding stone common in all homes. The mixture would then slowly reduce over a glowing fire in the backyard as women took turns to stir the bubbling jam before filling them into jars for the season. Another favourite is the miskut, a very typical Goan pickle prepared every summer. Tender baby mangoes are stuffed with salt and left to drain under a heavy weight for several days, following which they are stuffed with a preparation of mustard, fenugreek, turmeric, asafoetida, chilli powder and spices, before being tied with a thread and left to mature in a jar of oil for a month. Prawn curry rice and fried fish often finds the perfect accompaniment in Goa’s green mango pickle, a simple recipe involving sea salt, mustard seeds, turmeric powder, chilli powder, pepper, garlic paste, jaggery and oil. The gorgeous flavour of raw mangoes is also brought out in amto, a curry with prawns and raw mango, mostly eaten with rice. The mango season generally lasts about two months, and different varieties mature at different times. Being a tourist state, resorts and hotels hold food festivals celebrating the mango, using it in beautifully concocted dishes. The king of fruits makes an appearance at the ideal time, when its most ardent fans – little children – are on vacation, becoming the most perfect snack for hot summers.
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CASHEW FENI
Spirit of Goa
Even though cashews originally arrived from Brazil, Goa is the only place in the world that had the ingenuity to create from it the aromatic alcoholic drink called feni that we all love...
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Cashew juice collected in a colmbi for fermentation
Which of us hasn’t favoured that crunchy kidney shaped nut as we washed down a tipple in the evening or satiated those hunger pangs? Cashew nuts feature among the world’s favourite snacks and find their way into a host of dishes not just in Goa but around the world.
from their South American colony to Africa and Asia in the 14th and 15th centuries. Today, it is widely grown in India, Nigeria, the Ivory Coast, Indonesia and Vietnam.
Over the decades, the cashew – both nut and fruit – has been infused into local cuisine, being Most often, the fruit – sometimes called the cashew used in vegetable dishes, cakes, and as garnishing apple – is simply thrown away as the nuts are more on salads, biscuits and sweet dishes. The cashew desired. But in places where the cashew grows most apple is not technically a fruit, but a bloated stem abundantly, the thick juicy swollen fruit is prized. attached to the seed. It is soft and very rich in The plant, a tropical evergreen, grows on hill-sides nutrients. With five times the amount of Vitamin C and on stony ground in Goa, but isn’t native to offered by an orange, the cashew apple is an ideal this state. It is originally from north eastern Brazil, preventive measure to the season of colds and flu where, to this day, locals favour the fruit more than that follows its harvesting period. the nut. Their high level of astringency causes a strange It was the Portuguese in their search for spices and sand paper-like feeling after ingestion, but thanks trading outposts who brought the fruit with them to its sweet taste, this is ignored. In Goa, the apple 150
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Winemaker Rajat Pandurang Gawas works the press to remove the juice from freshly collected cashews
may be eaten, but is most often left to be used as the base for one of the state’s most famous products – feni. The coconut variant of the liquor is not as popular as the cashew one, possibly owing to the apple’s distinct flavour and the decreasing number of toddy tappers who collect coconut sap. The word ‘feni’ is thought to come from the Sanskrit word ‘phena’ meaning froth. This occurs during the fermentation process of the juice from the cashew apples, and could also reference a light film of bubbles that form when feni is shaken. Traditional methods require that only fruit fallen on the ground after ripening naturally on the tree are picked. Women and children would venture out early in the morning, sometimes just before sunrise, to pick up the fallen fruit before animals
such as pigs or even wild boar had the chance to gobble them up. They use a stick with an iron nail or a thorny branch called a canto to pick fruit off the ground faster. Today, the fruit is often picked off the tree to hasten the process and meet demand, leading the alcohol to acquire a stronger taste rather than a smoother blend. The apples were picked off the ground and the seeds removed. They were then placed in an area hewn out of rock into the shape of a basin, called a colmbi. Here, they were stomped much the way grapes are when making wine. Even the earthy taste of this colmbi lends its own flavour to the juice. To ensure as much juice is squeezed out of the fruit, the pulp is left under a heavy weight to drain. The last bit of liquid that drains out is called neero, which must be drunk within six hours or it begins to ferment. 151
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Winemaker Rajat Pandurang Gawas and WO’GOA’s Feature Editor Dielle D’souza
Instead of the more labour-intensive method of stomping, distillers now use a press named a pinjre or cage. Neero is sometimes chilled in the fridge and proves a very refreshing drink during the hot summer months. To make the liquor, the fresh neero is transferred to a large earthen pot buried in the ground. This pot, known as a kodem, is where the juice will sit untouched, fermenting for up to three days without any additives. It is now ready for the bhatti, or still. In the old days, the fermented liquid would be boiled in an earthen pot called a bhann covered with a lid called a dhanknnem. Now, copper pots have replaced it. The bhann was heated using firewood and the hot vapours of the liquid would travel down a bamboo pipe to another massive earthen pot called a launi. Old timers would patiently sit by the launi, constantly cooling it with cold water poured over it using a 152
doulo or a ladle made of coconut shells so that the earthen pot did not burst due to overheating and cause injuries. This time-tested method ensured that the alcohol had the perfect measure of love and hard work. Today’s distillers use a metallic coil immersed in a bath that does the job on its own. Each distillation takes up to five hours. But this product still does not earn the ‘feni’ tag. This is ‘urak’, the first distillation which contains about 15 per cent alcohol. Urak is typically served only during March and April, during the time of the fruit harvest. It is then mixed with neero and distilled once again to produce a spirit termed ‘cazulo’ which is about 40-42 per cent alcohol. Tradition determines that cashew feni is made by distilling cazulo with urak to make a highly potent liquid with 45 per cent alcohol. This is often thought to be too strong for consumption and was used in cooking – added to the delicious pork-based dish
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Fermented cashew juice is vapourised in a large pot, and then cooled with water to produce urak
The Bhann (copper pot) filled with fermented cashew juice is heated over a wood fire to produce urak
called sorpotel.
and originate in a geographical region.
Cashew feni available for drinking is double distilled. The flavours and strength vary based on the distiller or bhaticar, according to whom the mixing proportions are determined. Urak is often enjoyed with a mixer of lime juice, soda with a squeeze of lime or Limca. In the old days, adults would knock back a kop, or a small peg of feni drunk neat, before a meal. In modern times, there are a host of interesting cocktails and drinks made using cashew feni that makes it appealing to youngsters and tourists as well.
Cashew feni has a distinctive smell, with some finding it too strong to mask and a bit off-putting. The Indian Council for Agricultural Research (ICAR) recently worked with local manufacturer Cazcar to develop a method that eliminated this smell without affecting the quality by introducing certain microorganisms into the drink. Other manufacturers have added their own twist by creating flavoured feni such as lemon, masala, etc.
With much effort from large-scale manufacturers and the government Department of Science, Technology and Environment, cashew feni was awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) registration in 2009. GIs certify that products possess certain qualities, are made following traditional methods
Sadly, the Indian government has denied Goa the license to sell the spirit outside the state, stating that it is ‘country liquor’. While traditional methods are slowly replaced and adulteration continues, the true taste of feni still goes strong thanks to a few committed distillers, attractive packaging, cocktails and festivals dedicated to this spirit of Goa.
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Home to the world’s first in-hotel rickhouse, Manhattan at Regent Singapore, A Four Seasons Hotel, is a grand hotel bar inspired by the 19th century’s Golden Age of cocktails and fine drinking. Delivering on its name with a glamorous yet modern space reminiscent of old New York, craft bartending meets artisanal spirits to pay homage to classic and forgotten cocktails that leap from the pages of history. Since its inaugural in 2014, the Manhattan team have been expertly shaking up delicious handcrafted libations paired with plates of gourmet bites for barflies the world over. In celebration of its first anniversary, on April 10, 2015, Manhattan will open its doors for an exclusive one-night only bar takeover by two of the world’s best bartenders - Artesian Head Bartender Alex Kratena and Becherovka Global Brand Ambassador George Nemec.
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The evening begins with a welcome cocktail of Artesian’s renowned Colada, a modern interpretation of the classic piña colada. The drink is a refreshing blend of fresh pineapple purée, coconut water, white rum, lime juice and sugar, topped with a cinnamon liqueur float. Behind the marble bar, the duo will be turning out a selection of one-of-a-kind cocktails including Alex’s ‘It Didn’t Work out This Time’, a creation that has been specially customized for Manhattan. The brew is a heady mix of single pot still whiskey, gentian liqueur, Americano and verjus, which has been barrelaged in Manhattan’s signature American oak barrel. The exquisite marriage of ingredients results in vibrantly nutty and rich flavours with hints of citrus peel and marzipan; while the gentian liqueur strikes a pleasant balance for the drink, the tannins of verjus complements and adds complexity to the overall flavour. Global Brand Ambassador of Becherovka, a 100% natural Czech herbal liqueur with a rich heritage dating back to the 1800s, George will be showcasing his rendition of classic medieval cocktails with ‘Bohém’. The barrel-aged cocktail is a combination of Becherovka, Fernet-Branca, Death Door’s vodka, bitters and sweet wine, creating strong earthy tones juxtaposed with a tinge of sweetness and the harmonious flavours of herbs and spices. The night progresses with an interactive ‘cart to cup’ experience as the pair wheel cocktail trolleys through the bar; set to deliver a personal touch and an engaging display of masterful skills and showmanship as they serve their barrel-aged cocktail concoctions to guests tableside. Synonymous with Manhattan’s maxim of delivering world-class drinking experiences, both Alex and George will be showcasing their craft to bar enthusiasts and cocktail culturists for the first time in Singapore. 157
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The Manhattan pays tribute to the venerable New York tradition of festive weekend brunches with a lavish menu of unlimited craft cocktails, beers, wines and gastronomic pleasures - Singapore’s first adults-only cocktail brunch. Manhattan’s Weekend Cocktail Brunch wakes you up every Sunday with French toast streusel, topped with pecan and bourbon maple syrup, along with Head Chef Nicholas Trosien’s creative take on the classic B.L.T.; delicious layers comprising delicate soft-boiled fried egg atop smoky bacon, butter lettuce and heirloom tomato. These satisfying bites are the perfect segue to the extravagant buffet across the bar. From the sweet to the briny, slurp up the fine selection of succulent, freshly-shucked American bivalves at the Oyster Bar before moving on to the small plates of seafood delights such as lobster ceviche, Maine lobsters and shrimp cocktails.
Seasonal selection of deliciously rich American Oysters 159
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Roasted Cod
Artisan American cheeses in the Ingredients Room 160
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In Manhattan’s one-of-a-kind Ingredients Room, look forward to a carefully-curated seasonal selection of artisan American cheeses, freshly-baked pretzel bread and condiments. Think creamy mezzo secco, bandage wrapped cheddar, a distinctive Nicasio washedrind cheese and a robust Point Reyes blue cheese. Also packing an epicurean punch are hand-rolled mini bagels with a creative repertoire of toppings and delicious homemade cream cheese smears, as well as a salad and cold cuts station, replete with fresh seasonal greens that pair perfectly with black forest ham or foie gras pâté. Your decadent day continues with a trio of delicacies served hot to your table. Savour the delightfully fragrant roasted cod with clam chowder; smoked foie gras with roasted mushrooms, cauliflower purée and pistachio; as well as the delicately tender BBQ braised beef short ribs with crunchy fried kale, baby vegetables and tobacco onions, to name a few. Desserts are equally delicious with a medley of cinnamonraisin sticky buns, whoopie pie cheeseburgers, Snickers candy bars, cupcakes, and more. But food is only half the equation as you make a toast to the weekend with a selection of six specially-crafted cocktails. Rise and shine with a mid-morning sip of the refreshing Orange Creamsicle (tea-infused Aylesbury Duck vodka, fresh orange, orange bitters, orange flower water) or opt for the crisp Old Cuban (Plantation Original Dark Rum, fresh lime, organic mint, champagne, angostura bitters). Other toast-worthy tipples include the Rosemary Spritz (rosemary-infused aperol, orange Curaçao, seltzer water), La Bonne Vie (Fords Gin, fresh lemon, fresh grapefruit, organic basil, West India orange bitters), the Market-Fresh Bellini (Champagne, fresh-pressed seasonal juice) and our house-made The Flowing Bowl punch. Also adding a lot (or a little) spice to your morning is the Bloody Mary Cart, situated in Manhattan’s Rickhouse, which allows you to build the popular brunch cocktail, the way you like it. Whether you enjoy them spicy, tangy or mild, have a blast mixing up your own with the fun assortment of spices and other condiments (paprika, cayenne, chili powder, etc.), garnishes (fresh fruit, pickled vegetables, etc.), and not forgetting a kick of hot sauce. And if your elixir of choice is champagne, an option with unlimited flow of Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve is also available. Barrel Aged Negroni
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KOI - GOA
Koi
A Luxurious Pan Asian Journey Text
Sapna Shahani
K
oi, the Japanese name of the ornamental fish variety, chosen to be displayed in ponds for their beauty, is an apt name for the trendiest new restaurant along the tourist belt in Goa. Located conveniently on the road between Calangute and Candolim, this new Asian-themed restaurant is housed in a charming Portuguese-style villa behind Snip salon. Sea food Hormok
Koi seems to have a ‘full sensory’ approach to dining from the minute you enter. One notices the exquisite cutlery by English designer and silversmith Robert Welch and the elegant glassware bought in Germany. The interiors are chic and visually appealing, with the highlight being a mural on one wall depicting Koi swimming around a Buddha. One can guage the diversity of Asian cuisines represented from the soups alone: Laksa from Malaysia, Khowsuey from Burma, Vietnamese Pho, Japanese Miso and Oyakodon are all available. Koi’s own signature creations like the ‘Sleepy Lobster with Tamarind’, ‘Hainan Style Chicken Rice’, ‘Five Spice Roast Duck’, ‘Mandarin style Crepe Suzette’ all have flavours that hit the mark. The cocktails similarly draw from Asian flavours but with a modern twist, conceived by owner Vikram Singh who is also a mixologist. Premium ingredients not commonly available in Goa such as the Foie Gras and the tempura batter are imported with no cost spared.
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Owners Shefali and Vikram Singh lived in San Francisco and Malaysia, where they were influenced by the diversity of flavours from street food to the
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highest echelons of luxury restaurants. Vikram has a long history with the hospitality industry from Campton Place in San Francisco to the Four Seasons in Vancouver and more recently with Hotel Alila Diwa in Goa. The couple are passionate about getting like-minded people together over food. Towards this end the cuisine, design and bar have all been crafted with great detail and this fact is not lost on the guests.
Mixed Dim Sum
Another highlight is the Teppanyaki table, quite unique for Goa, which is used as an interactive theater for food. Here, the food is prepared right in front of you by the chef in an iterative process where the chef adapts every dish to each guest’s unique taste buds. Visitors be warned that you have to book this special experience in advance. The who’s who of Goa and the rest of India are known to dine here regularly and an exclusive 7-course Glenlivet paired degustation dinner that took place here recently was the talk of the town. More events like these are in the offing that you don’t need to be invited to. Unlimited small plates are to be dished out on Sunday evenings for the ‘Asian Feast’ nights that will also feature different swing bands every week. The interesting twist is that you don’t order from a menu on these nights… The chefs choose for you, so that you can enjoy the gustatory surprise. Several set meals are available at their ‘Dim Sum and Then Some’ lunches every day. While the focus is on over 10 kinds of Dim Sum, there are also Thai, Chinese and other Asian set meals on offer.
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Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake 164
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Nestled amidst an exquisite garden along the shores of a lake deemed heaven on earth by explorers of old, Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake occupies a serene, intimate world of its own. Rooted in centuries of dynastic lore, the hotel is a 21st-century prism through which the past is reflected – modern luxuries and design commingle with traditional architecture and timeless natural beauty to form a majestic and magical Chinese dreamscape. Only minutes from the bustle of the downtown core, Four Seasons is an exclusive sanctuary for relaxation and an ideal locale for business meetings and entertaining. Reminiscent of the famous Garden Houses of Shanghai favoured by China’s elite business people, high-ranking government officials and other VIPs in the early 20th century, the Villas at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake are designed in the distinct Jiang Nan style of the region. Characterised by pagoda-like peaked roof pavilions linked by walkways through traditional Chinese water gardens, the Jiang Nan aesthetic encourages a feeling of unity with one’s environment in an elegantly calm atmosphere sought by emperors and travellers for centuries. The Presidential, Ambassador and Governor Villas each include three stories of private and communal spaces created and beautifully decorated by Bilkey Llinas Design. Each Villa has nearly 1000 square metres of expansive living spaces and bedrooms surrounded by lush private gardens. Services unique to the Villas include a private butler, with an option for a live-in staff member if desired. 167
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Small, quiet and exclusive, Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake features just 78 guest rooms – including five suites – plus three residential-style villas for families and larger parties. Starting at 63 square metres (678 square feet), our guest rooms are the most spacious in Hangzhou. Many accommodations open to a terrace conservatory that features windows that may be pushed back in fine weather. Views encompass forest glades, traditional gardens or lovely West Lake. Decor blends centuries of Chinese tradition with chic designer style, seamlessly incorporating the latest technology for business and entertainment. Let the Beauty of West Lake Float Your Boat - From its rich history and healthy cuisine to Longjing tea and silk products, Hangzhou has a lot to be proud of, but all its myriad wonders fade in comparison to West Lake, the stunning crown jewel of the city. Beloved by locals and visitors for centuries, West Lake has been a muse to poets and painters alike as well as a favorite imperial retreat for ancient royals. The cycle of seasons gives it an ever-changing look, yet whether in the exuberant bloom of summer or the frosty winds of winter, this watery gem remains a timeless beauty, never ceasing to amaze. In 2011, the West Lake Cultural Landscape was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List, acknowledged for being not only the quintessence of Hangzhou’s classic charm, but also a major carrier of the city’s cultural and historical legacy. While there are countless ways to appreciate West Lake, when it comes to fully revelling in its bewitching allure, nothing compares to a good old fashioned boat ride. After all, it was the preferred way of world’s most famous traveler, Marco Polo, who declared that “a 168
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voyage on this lake offers more refreshment and delectation than any other experience on earth”. So why not joining one of the many barges skimming the surface of the lake as soon as you arrive in town? And better yet, making it your grand entrance to your hotel? At Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake, we have designed an extraordinary new check-in experience that guarantees to float your boat. Upon your arrival, the hotel limo will pick you up from the airport or train stations and take you straight to the West Lake Pier. There, get on board a petite, traditional Chinese style wooden boat, and rest is total relaxation. Slowly cruising through the willow-fringed waters, you will be treated with a panoramic view of the scenic landscape while the modern city hustle and bustle melts away in a fresh pot of Longjing tea. Don’t miss the chance to take a fun lesson of local legends from your boatman, who will tell you all about the folklore of West Lake. Before you know it, the check-in process is underway and the boat has reached the hotel pier, where a welcome tea ceremony marks a perfect start of your stay with us. If once isn’t enough, no worries - you are most welcome to come back for more. Simply pick a fine day and bring a bottle of bubbly to the hotel pier, and we will arrange a boat that takes you into the peaceful embrace of West Lake. As an ancient Chinese proverb goes: “A good beginning is halfway to success.” We wish this refreshing check-in experience is only the prologue of your unique and memorable Hangzhou journey!
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EVIAN SPA - PALACE HOTEL TOKYO
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a wanderlust weekend of water, wine & washoku Water, wine and washoku are the essential ingredients of a new Wanderlust Weekend package that’s set to debut at Palace Hotel Tokyo - a member of The Leading Hotels of the World alongside the season’s bounty of cherry blossoms. No accidental coupling, or tripling of amenities, each of the ingredients speaks to grand themes which course through the hotel, including UNESCO’s recognition of washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) as an intangible cultural asset, the hotel’s acquisition of its first Michelin star, and evian SPA’s relatively recent debut in Japan. Ideal for weekend wanderings, the two-night, breakfast-inclusive package includes: Water – two 50-min. Vitalizing Signature treatments at evian SPA Washoku – one prix fixe kaiseki lunch for two at Wadakura Wine – one prix fixe dinner for two at Crown with wine pairings At the heart of this package is the Japanese concept of ‘wa’ (harmony). Each element has been chosen to create the perfect balance between Japan’s longestablished cultural heritage and the richness of foreign influences. To start, jetsetters will dine on an artistic array of delicacies at Wadakura, the hotel’s signature Japanese restaurant, with its kaiseki menu featuring the season’s finest. Guests will also enjoy expertly paired wines with their exquisite prix fixe dinner at the Michelin-starred French restaurant Crown, whose original chef and sommelier, Tokusaburo Tanaka and Katsumi Asada, can be credited with fostering Japan’s love for French cuisine and wine. As the hotel’s first sommelier and the first ever in Japan, Asada became synonymous for nurturing Japan’s fondness for wines and champagnes when he authored the country’s first comprehensive guide on the subject and subsequently founded and chaired what is today the Japan Sommelier Association. His passion and expertise still form the foundations of Crown’s wine selection. Tanaka was also instrumental in cultivating Japan’s appreciation for French cooking with his authorship of the first full-scale compendium of French recipes to be published in Japanese, leaving an indelible mark on the future of budding Japanese chefs. The experience is rounded out with two Vitalizing Signature treatments at evian SPA TOKYO, a pristine setting metaphorical of the journey evian natural mineral water takes through the Alps. The 50-minute treatments combine traditional Japanese seitai trigger point work with Swedish-style deep tissue massage to noticeably improve energy flow. 173
THE SPA - FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN
The Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan Immersed in lush greenery in the Ayung River valley, the Spa at Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan is a serene, nurturing environment with a deep inner focus. The Spa incorporates authentic spiritual traditions, such as chakra balancing, Balinese Ayurvedic practices, yoga and meditation. Guests have the opportunity to learn genuine Balinese philosophy and discover a truly Eastern healing experience, providing a practical, modern approach to living in bliss. The Spa Villa complex is cradled in the rice fields and herb gardens, a short walk away from the Resort Lobby. As you descend down the series of Palimanan steps, you find the complex floats in a large lotus pond and nestled in a forest of tropical vegetation. Balinese medicine adheres to the concept of complete oneness. The philosophy of “Tat twam asi” – translated as “you are that” – reminds us that there is no separation between us and what is around us, emphasising the connection between the unseen (“niskala”) and the seen (“sekala”) worlds. The Panca Maya Kosa – Five Layers of Being – keep us in constant contact with the world at both conscious and subconscious levels. Ill health is caused not only by imbalance in the physical body, but also by spiritual disconnection to the larger world.
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THE SPA - FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT SAYAN
Offering a truly Eastern healing experience, the Spa’s signature treatments showcase a powerful selection of authentic Balinese healing traditions to help reconnect you to your whole, complete self. Anahata – the heart chakra – is located in the chest and serves as the centre of unconditional love, governing compassion, forgiveness, generosity and wellbeing. Balancing this chakra is important for the circulatory system, heart and thymus. This chakra is very important to the Balinese, because an open heart helps clear negativity and allows only love and compassion to be given and received. Goddess Within - The Balinese believes that the divine energy of the powerful male gods is static and requires the creative energy of their female consorts to be fully manifested. Every woman embodies this dynamic, creative energy of the universe. This ancient Balinese ritual for women, customarily reserved for a bride before her wedding day, is intended to awaken your inner goddess. 176
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SIGNATURE DISHES - DAVID ROCCO
David’s Indo-Italian Mussels by
David Rocco
Ingredients: 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tsp turmeric 1 tsp mustard seeds 1 tsp fennel 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 2 tomatoes, chopped 1 lb mussels, debearded and cleaned 2 fresh green chilies, chopped 1 tsp dried chilies 1 cup white wine 178
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Over medium-high heat, flavour your extra virgin olive oil with the garlic, turmeric, mustard seeds, and fennel. Add in your tomatoes and green chilies to cook for a minute. Next your mussels go into the pan. Give it a good toss and add your white wine. Cover your mussels to steam for about 5 min. Once the mussels have opened remove everything from the pan. You can either serve them as is or remove them from their shells and put them over top of a pizza bianca.
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SIGNATURE DISHES - TARAN CHADHA - BOUCHON BISTRO, HONG KONG
Escargots de Bourgone by
Taran Chadha Bouchon Bistro
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Ingredients ½ Dozen escargots Softened Butter Washed and picked Parsley Garlic minced Spring onions thinly sliced Salt White wine Brandy Nutmeg grated
Method Add herb butter (for flavor) to escargots and make it hot in oven Herb Butter recipe : Blanch Parsley in salted water for 1 minute and place in ice bath. Squeeze out water and rough chop. Blend with some water to form green puree Whisk this into butter, garlic, shallots, wine, brandy and salt. Add remaining chopped parley. Serve hot
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SIGNATURE DISHES - SOHO SPICE, HONG KONG
Grilled King Prawns cooked in Vietnamese spices and herbs with chili lime sauce
Soho Spice
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Ingredients King prawns cut into half Butter Coriander Basil Mint Garlic Chili Oil White pepper Lime juice Palm sugar Fish sauce Spring onions Cucumber
Method Cut king prawns into half Add butter, coriander, mint, garlic, chili oil, salt, white pepper on top. Grill until it is golden colour. Peel cucumber, serve king prawns on top garnished with spring onions. Dressing: Blend chili, garlic, lime juice, palm sugar fish sauce and pour it on top Serve warm
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SIGNATURE DISHES - TANGO ARGENTINIAN STEAK HOUSE , HONG KONG
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For the dough: Combine 150 grams of all purpose flour and 1/4 teaspoon of salt into a mixing bowl. In a pot boil 75 ml of water and 75 grams of lard. Then gradually add hot liquids to dry ingredients. Mix until you get a smooth dough. Place the dough on lightly floured surface, knead the dough until smooth and pliable. Roll it up to 1/2 cm. Cut discs of 4 inches. Place them in a trade using corn starch to prevent sticking. For the filling:
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Cut 250 grams of sirloin in small dices of 0.5 cm. Finely chop one onion, one red and green pepper. Sauté until soft. Add one Tablespoon of garlic. Add the meat previously chopped and cook for 10 minutes in high heat. Add one teaspoon of cayenne pepper, paprika, Dry Oregano and chili Flakes. Cook in medium heat for 30 minutes or until the meat is soft and tender. Cool down and add 50 grams of chopped green olives, a bunch of chopped spring onions and 3 roughly chopped Hard Boiled eggs. For making the empanada: Stuff the empanada with a handful of the filling. Fold over, forming a semicircle. Pinch a corner of the dough, and then fold that section into itself. Pinch and pull out another 1/2 inch section and fold over, so it overlaps the first piece. Repeat along the length of the folded side, until you create a “twisted” seal. Bake it in the oven for 25 minutes at 180 degrees or deep-fry it until getting a golden brown color. 185
SIGNATURE DISHES - TARAN CHADHA - CRAFTSTEAK, HONG KONG
Bone Marrow Steak Tartar by
Taran Chadha Craftsteak
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Ingredients: Bone marrow Tenderloin Onions Capers Parsley Chives Garlic Quail egg Crostini Watercress Salt and pepper Method: Fine chop tenderloin, onions, garlic, capers, parsley, chives. Mix all the finely chopped ingredients together and keep it on plate in a round shape ring. Add quail egg yolk on top as garnish. Make watercress salad with house dressing (Shallots, olive oil, red wine vinegar). Place watercress salad on the side of steak tartar. Split bone marrow into two and add salt, pepper and char grill. Serve hot bone marrow with cold tartar. 187
SIGNATURE DISHES - GORDON RAMSAY, BREAD STREET KITCHEN, HONG KONG
Gordon Ramsay’s
Lamb Meat Balls 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 5 shallots, minced 2 pounds ground lamb 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons lemon zest 1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup unsalted butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 1/2 tablespoons tomato sauce 1/4 cup wine 1 small garlic clove, minced 1 dash ground cinnamon
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Directions Melt the 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat. Cook and stir the shallots in the skillet until tender. Transfer to a large bowl. Mix lamb, bread crumbs, parsley, and lemon zest into the bowl with the shallots. Season with marjoram, salt, and pepper. Let stand 1 hour in the refrigerator.
Melt 1/2 cup butter and heat olive oil in a skillet over mediumhigh heat. Form the lamb mixture into small meatballs, and cook in the skillet in batches until evenly brown. Do not drain skillet. Drain meatballs on paper towels, and place in a serving dish. Mix tomato sauce, wine, garlic, and cinnamon into the skillet. Cook and stir until well blended and heated through. Drizzle over the meatballs in the dish. Served with some pasta or rice
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SIGNATURE DISHES - DAVID ROCCO
Coconut Curry Shrimp by
D a vi d Roc c o
Serves 4 - 6 Ingredients: 2 lb. raw, uncooked shrimp, deshelled 1 tsp. turmeric powder Salt, QB 1 tbsp. mustard seeds ½ cup ginger root, sliced 2-3 green chilies, halved, seeds in 1 tbsp. garlic 15 curry leaves 1 small onion, finely chopped 4 cups coconut milk 1 medium tomato, finely chopped Fresh chopped coriander, QB Toasted coconut, QB Season your shrimp with a good amount of salt and the turmeric powder. Set aside. In a pot, heat up your oil to a high heat and add your mustard seeds. You should hear them crackle. Next add your chili peppers, garlic, curry leaves, and onion in that order, stirring after each ingredient is added. Cook until the onions have become soft and the pepper is blistering. Then add your coconut milk and a good pinch of salt. When the coconut milk begins to bubble lightly add the shrimp. Cook for 5 minutes. Finish with your coriander, tomato, and toasted coconut. 190
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SUNSET CRUISE | DINNER CRUISE | MIDNIGHT CRUISE
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NEW YORK REAL ESTATE
35 Years of Experience, Integrity and Discretion Serving the International Community Call us today at: +1 (917) 546-0804 E-mail: info@singernewyorkrealestate.com www.singernewyorkrealestate.com 194