WO’GOA something is always brewing…September 2014 Issue by WG Magazines

‘ W GOA O

SEPTEMBER 2014

something is always brewing

ATUL KOCHHAR

Internationally Acclaimed Chef

MANEET CHAUHAN The Indian Spice Girl

Rediscovering Chandor

The Menezes Braganza House

Gerard Da Cunha

Constructing within nature

Dr. Bernadette Gomes

An artistic journey into Goa

Goa... The Stay Experience

G O A BENARES www.wogoa.in

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Janis Joplin “Concert for One” Photo © 4

Baron Wolman

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Baron Wolman will be on hand to celebrate the opening of his debut show in Goa, India. In addition to the opening, Baron will be signing his latest books, Every Picture Tells a Story - Baron Wolman - The Rolling Stone Years & WOODSTOCK To reserve a copy of Baron’s books (due to limited quantity) please call +91 832 246 3234 or E-mail sales@wogoa.in Sponsorship Opportunities: e-mail:sponsorship@wogoa.in For further details contact: sales@wogoa.in

izzy publishing

“THE ROLLING STONE YEARS” Every Picture Tells A Story – Baron Wolman, The Rolling Stone Years 176 pages, 12 x 10 ½ inches • US$37.95 + Shipping from the U.S. To order one or more autographed copies, contact the author at baron@baronwolman.com

Baron Wolman not only witnessed what is without a doubt the most important period of change in popular music and popular culture, but his photographs helped shape it. Rolling Stone magazine encapsulated and distilled the most important events and changes as they were taking place. Each issue would speak to this evolving youth culture in a language that was all its own and Baron’s photos captured the events and personalities, and visualized the music. The 176 pages of “The Rolling Stone Years” are filled with photos and text. Some of the photos have never been seen; none of the words have ever been read – other than by Baron and the editors, of course. It’s a picture book with text, the stories behind the photos. “For years I’ve been asked to talk about the photos, how they came to be, what happened on assignment at the various shoots. This book answers those questions and more. I and my camera were fortunate to be around at a seminal time in the history of our country and the music business. The book is my ‘thank you’ for the privilege. “I was living in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury and working as a photo-journalist in 1967, when a fortuitous meeting with Jann Wenner, the founder of Rolling Stone, resulted in my becoming the publication’s first chief photographer. From Issue Number One and for nearly three years thereafter, my photographs were published regularly in Rolling Stone and became the magazine’s graphic centerpiece. The collection of pictures and the stories behind them in the book represents some of the most significant artists and events of the period.” 7

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Le MĂŠridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina Al Sufouh Road, Jumeirah Beach, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 399 3373 l +971 55 821 6062 www.watatsumi.ae 9

Editor Fabian deCastro Associate Editor Ryan Largo-Afonso Feature Editor Vijaya Pais Creative Consultant Datta Gawade Editorial Consultant Teotonio R. de Souza Contributors Jasmine Chopra Heidi Fuller-Love Joachim Haider Gary Azavedo Photographers Jasmine Chopra Datta Gawade Heidi Fuller-Love Creative Design Studio FJM design Publisher

IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.

WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India +91 (832) 2463234 fax +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth Marketing & Advertising Joel Nazereth Call: +91 832 246 3234 Business Executive Gary Azavedo Call: +91 98 22295795 E-mail: gary.azavedo@wogoa.in (Mumbai) TECrafter Corporation Call: +91 99 20370263 E-mail: sales@wogoa.in © IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WO’GOA™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. can not be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. © 2014 WO’GOA™ All rights reserved.

Cover Image Credit The Leela Goa Image Road to Parrá 10

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

Goa & Beyond…WO’GOA goes beyond the shores of Goa to bring its readers the taste of what’s beyond, we go on a journey to Benares, Watatsumi, ubk and Leela or should we say London, Dubai and Trivandrum. A must try if you are in any of these beautiful cities. Atul Kochhar the highly acclaimed chefs in Britain, an international icon and recognisable face of Indian cuisine, Atul was the first Indian chef to win a coveted Michelin Star and his innovative take on food has continued to win him received numerous awards and his Outstanding Contribution to the Curry Industry. The US is taken by storm by the India Spice Girl – Maneet Chauhan, the award winning author, prominent US based TV personality, Ambassador of the Culinary Institute of America and a featured judge on Food Network’s Emmy Award nominated show ‘Chopped’. Her delicate twist of Indian flavors, Maneet has put her mark in the food world in America. ‘Chauhan Ale and Masala House’ is set to rock Nashville, Tennessee this September. Constructing within Nature with Gerard Da Cunha, the eminent architect of Goa who won the Designer of the Year Award and the Prime Minister’s National Award for Excellence in Urban Planning and Design. Preserving Goa’s unique Indo-Portuguese heritage is another concern close to Gerard Da Cunha’s heart. He has been involved in the grand restoration of one of Goa’s oldest fort ‘Reis Magos Fort’ which is listed under the Goa Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act - an archaic law that restricts major restoration. Dining Out at the Taj Exotic Goa and scrumptious culinary creations by Master Chef Urbano de Rego and Chef Andrzej Andy Zyla. Goa is a great place to relax and ‘The Stay Experience’ at The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort, Hotel Fortune, Shanti Morada and Laguna Anjuna is a range for all. 45 Years After... prompted WO’GOA to put up a photography exhibition of the legendary photographer Baron Wolman to Goa. ‘I Saw The Music’ by Baron Wolman will be the first ever exhibition of Baron Wolman in India and Goa is the place, don’t miss out, details in this issue. Remember, Something Is Always Brewing… enjoy! Publisher

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

CONTENTS 20

Atul Kochhar

The Indian Spice Girl

Chef in the City - Farooq Baig

Rediscovering Chandor

Institute Menezes Branganza

Constructing Within Nature

An Artistic Journey into Goa

Candolim

The Sea Reflected In Goan Folklore

A day in the life of Parrá

fields in Para Goa...always green 12

GOA & BEYOND - BENARES

GOA & BEYOND - WATATSUMI

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GOA & BEYOND - ubk

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GOA & BEYOND - THE LEELA

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GOA & BEYONG - XCLUSIVE CRUISE

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The Stay Experience

134

GO GOA!

136

Dining Out

146

Signature Dishes

156

Voices of Passion

contributors Heudi Fuller-Love - From food reviewer for Asia Life in Cambodia, to trainee gaucho on a farm in Argentina, food, travel and lifestyle writer/photographer Heidi Fuller-love regularly contributes to 68+ publications (including her own French website Femme Voyageur) and travels the world for her awardwinning city/country guide show for British Airways inflight radio. A regular Goa visitor, Heidi Fuller-love has penned guides to the region for Trip Advisor and countless other publications.

Teotonio R. de Souza - An Indo-Portuguese historian, researcher and columnist. Fellow of the Portuguese Academy of History and Sociedade de Geografia de Lisboa. Founder-Director of the Xavier Centre of Historical Research (1979-1994). Head and Chair, Dept. of History, Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisboa (since 1996).

Jasmine Chopra - Mumbai born, Goa raised, Konkani speaking AngloIndian Jasmine returned to India after 10 years in the UK pursuing her studies in Tourism and gaining professional experience. During her time there, she developed a flair for writing, photography and volunteer work. Her passion took her deep into the indigenous rainforest of Costa Rica for community work and gave her a love of the Spanish language. A stickler for linguistics she has a repertoire of hotels, publications and travel. She divides her time between England, France and India but Goa, according to her is where the roots are. Joachim Haider came to Goa in 2006 from Germany and the first thing Joachim Haider invested in was a Bullet (a motorbike) and he began to explore Goa over the weekends, where he fell in love with the place. When work as an architect started to get stifling, Joachim decided to try something different in the field and in 2012 joined a young architectural company based in Panaji called Organic Arts and Architecture, as their head designer. Today Joachim lives in Goa with his Indian wife Sadhana, and enjoys trekking to exploring the Goan hinterland.

Chef Andrzej Andy Zyla is the Executive Sous Chef of DAMAC Hotels & Resorts Mgt LLC, his cuisine is simple and delicate which he shares with WO’GOA readers. In the past 10 years Chef Andy has been the Chef de Partie at the Chelsea Arts Club in London, Sous Chef at the Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas in the Maldives, Head Chef at the Earl Spenser in London, the Speciality Sous Chef at The Address Montgomerie in Dubai, Chef de Cuisine at the Fairmont Hotels & Resorts, Palm Jumeirah Dubai and Watatsumi a fine dining Japanese restaurant, Le Méridien Mina Seyahi. 14

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tul Kochhar is one of the finest Indian chefs in Britian and around the world, renowned for the vibrancy of his food and the subtlety of his spice mixes. Atul was one of the first Indian chefs to be awarded a Michelin star and he has become the recognisable face of Indian cuisine. His innovative take on food has continued to win him awards for his ‘Outstanding Contribution to the Curry Industry’ With his busy schedules, Atul makes time to speak with WO’GOA

WO’GOA: What brought you into the world of cuisine and what made you decide to become a chef?

“Atul Kochhar is one of the most critically acclaimed chef in Britain; he was the first Indian chef to win a coveted Michelin Star” WO’GOA Publisher & Vijaya Pais

Atul Kochhar: My father was the reason we all grew up with such a strong passion, understanding, respect and fascination for food. Without the knowledge he instilled in me from a young age I wouldn’t be here today. When he was alive cooking for him was one of my greatest pleasures, and I remember calling him when I won the Michelin star. WO’GOA: How did you come about to being a culinary genius, taking Indian cuisine to a whole new level with a fusion and taste with different flavors from different countries and binding it together as an Atul Kochhar signature dish? Atul Kochhar: My approach to cooking has been inspired from all over India, my family is from the North but I was born in the East, I studied in the South and travelled through the west. I have taken these diverse spices, blends and methods and applied the same philosophies to each dish. WO’GOA: What would you say is the inspiration behind your innovations? How do you keep yourself abreast of current culinary trends? Atul Kochhar: I travel the world, eat in as many places I can and I keep making sure that my menu, my team and my style responds to trends, changes in produce, and constantly evolves. I take inspiration from everywhere, memories and pictures to architecture and even jewellery. WO’GOA: Who were the people and or personalities who influenced you the most and how? Atul Kochhar: Both Albert Roux and Manjit Singh Gill have been truly inspirational throughout my career. 21

WO’GOA: What was the feeling of being the first Indian born chef to earn a Michelin Star, would you like to elaborate on this Michelin star journey? Atul Kochhar: I never expected to be able to achieve the star with Indian food because Michelin was so traditional in the past, but it’s really opened its heart to Indian food now and appreciates the complexities and efforts that go into excellent Indian cooking. It was hard work to achieve as is as hard to maintain. WO’GOA: It must have been a great feeling to cook at St. James’s Palace for Prince Charles, could you enlighten us on the palate taste which required the best of Atul Kochhar? Atul Kochhar: It was a pleasure and a privilege cooking for Prince Charles. He enjoys simple tastes and flavours so I was on my element cooking for him. WO’GOA: What is your favorite Indian spice and is there a particular ingredient that you look forward using in cuisine? Atul Kochhar: I frequently use coriander, cinnamon and cloves, but my favourite has to be cardamom. It’s so diverse that it can be used in both sweet and savory dishes. I enjoy cooking with fish and have even dedicated a whole book to it.

Cod Neelgira Korma 23

“Kochhar is not only one of the pioneers of high-end Indian food… but he’s also the grandmaster of spice, more magician than mere cook… He does things to the taste buds that make them blush with lusty delight” Tom Parker Bowles the Mail on Sunday Live magazine

Paneer and Stuffed Bell Pepper 26

WO’GOA: Creativity or technique, what is more important? Atul Kochhar: I think there has to be a balance between the two. WO’GOA: What would you consider to be your favorite comfort food? Away from work… Atul Kochhar: When I’m not in the kitchen a simple cheese sandwich is my guilty pleasure, perfect after a long shift. At home I leave the cooking to my wife, who is brilliant and we eat traditional Indian food, lots of vegetarian dishes and light options. WO’GOA: What does Atul Kochhar do when he needs a break? How do you spend your time off? Atul Kochhar: A day in the garden with my children in our London family home is pretty perfect. WO’GOA: Where’s next for Atul Kochhar? Atul Kochhar: I am always looking to travel the world in pursuit of perfect food and new flavour profiles and my other restaurants allow me to travel often. I’d like to grow the brand, to develop staff and training so that we become the place to work as a young Chef, and can even look to opening other sites with the overspill of talent we’ve bred.

W O‘GOA

OUR SEARCH FOR THE ULTIMATE PENTHOUSE IN MANHATTAN’S HOTTEST NEIGHBORHOOD By Jackson Stone

helsea is not only the most desirable neighborhood in Manhattan, but has rapidly become one of the most soughtafter addresses on the planet for the sophisticated jetsetter. If you are an art collector, the Chelsea art district boasts hundreds of galleries and is one of the most important and influential in the world. If you are a gourmand, you are situated amidst an abundance of world-class dining at New York’s top restaurants. We searched high and low for the perfect penthouse, not only located right in the middle of the action, but one that is quietly positioned as an opulent haven in the sky. What we found was a breathtaking duplex on West 19th Street, one of Chelsea’s finest blocks. This amazing space offers an indescribable living experience and unequaled panoramic city and river vistas. Every inch of this immaculate, 4,054 square-foot duplex penthouse reflects superior craftsmanship, the utmost attention to detail and ultrarefined finishes at every turn. It is impossible not to be impressed with the floor-to-ceiling windows as they surround you with spectacular, unparalleled views of the Manhattan skyline. Your guests will traverse the long foyer and be welcomed into an elegant five-bedroom, five-and-a-half bath residence that has been completely renovated to perfection and is designed with entertaining in mind. With ample formal areas and an outdoor terrace accessible from both the grand living room and library, you will enjoy a seamless flow, be it for an intimate barbecue or a large-scale party. The terrace, which is a showpiece of its own accord, showcases the endless city panorama and a birds-eye view of the Empire State Building, affording trophy status and the ultimate respite from the vibrant neighborhood below. Nurture your inner foodie by preparing inspired culinary creations while overlooking the Hudson River in your top-of-the-line, open chef’s kitchen that features premium appliances, white Carrara marble accents, Arclinea Italian cabinetry, Boffi fixtures and a beautiful breakfast area Ascend the custom-designed staircase with its intricate bronze railing to enter your sprawling master bedroom retreat — the pièce de résistance. Its spectacular views, massive teak closet providing significant luxury storage and the opulent master bath with ribbed marble walls will wow even the most discerning of buyers. Designed by the famed Selldorf Architects, this prized penthouse is within walking distance of West Chelsea’s best attractions. Stroll along the Chelsea Piers, Highline, Hudson River Park, Chelsea Market, the Meatpacking District, the site of the future Whitney Museum and a vast array of exclusive shopping. More details can be gained by contacting Singer New York Real Estate at (917) 546-0804 or emailing info@singernewyorkrealestate.com. Offered at $21,500,000.

the Indian Spice Girl Chef Maneet Chauhan Maneet Chauhan the award winning author, prominent US based TV personality, Ambassador of the Culinary Institute of America and a featured judge on Food Network’s Emmy Award nominated show ‘Chopped’. With her delicate twist of Indian flavors, Maneet has put her mark in the food world in America. Now Maneet is taking Nashville, Tennessee to new heights, building on her authentic recipes which is set to shake up the world of Indian food with ‘Chauhan Ale and Masala House’ Celebrity Chef Maneet Chauhan takes time off to speak with WO’GOA’s Publisher. WO’GOA: Was it a conscious decision to become a chef, or did you fall in love with food? Maneet Chauhan: Food has always been a lifelong love affair for me. My husband Vivek pulls my leg about my obsession with food and cooking and my parents joke that I was born with a ladle in my hand. I grew up in a small town in India called Ranchi. We lived in a colony which was a melting pot of people from different states. The unique part about the different states in India is that each and every one has a unique cuisine. I was this obnoxious kid who would eat dinner at home and then go to my neighbors and tell them that my mom hasn’t given me any food to eat and I would promptly invite myself to their dining table to enjoy the food I would constantly ask the why question. Why have they used this spice? This oil? Or why did they heat the oil before adding the spice? WO’GOA: Your cooking is referred to as a global fusion with deep roots in Indian cuisine. What are the trademarks of your cooking that have led to this? Maneet Chauhan: To me food and cooking is like life - it’s all about evolution. I love creating new dishes while using my foundation which is deeply rooted in Indian cuisine. WO’GOA: From Argentina to Vietnam, a celebration of cuisines and cultures, titled ‘FLAVORS OF MY WORLD: A Culinary Tour Through 25 Countries,’ what inspired you to write this book and what is your favorite recipe in the book? 30

“Maneet Chauhan is the first India Chef and the only Indian female to ever compete on Iron Chef and Next Iron Chef. A permanant Judge on the Food Network’s hit show Chopped, the James Beard Award of Excellence and Celebrity Chef Maneet Chauhan has received glowing accolades for her globally-inspired culinary acumen”

Maneet Chauhan: My book consists of 25 countries, and my favorite dishes and drinks from these countries and those presented with my signature… which is an Indian touch. Each dish has a personal story as to why I chose it. There are exciting recipes like Nasi Goreng from Indonesia with an Indian panch puran spice mix and the Fish and Chips from England, with an Indian spice called Ajwain. My inspiration was twofold. Firstly I wanted people to see Indian cuisine as approachable, this I thought would be best done by presenting dishes that people are familiar with, but delivered with an interesting twist. Secondly I wanted to make people see that Indian cuisine can be fun and beyond chicken tikka masala. WO’GOA: What was the feeling of being the recipient of the James Beard Award of Excellence, and would you say this was one of your greatest achievements in your career? Maneet Chauhan: I have been fortunate in receiving many honors of which I am proud. Winning the IACP award for my E-Cookbook: “The Journey”, being invited as the commencement speaker at the CIA (Culinary Institute of America), receiving the key to the city of Jacksonville, Arkansas from the Mayor are a few that come to mind. I received the James Beard Award of Excellence as a part of the Chopped Team. It was a surreal and a very proud moment. The James Beard awards are the Oscar’s of the food Industry and to be acknowledged for your work is a dream come true. It was certainly one of the greatest achievements in my career. WO’GOA: What was your first reaction when you received the invitation early this year for the Easter Egg Roll from the White House as the guest of President Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama, and could you share your experience of that day? Maneet Chauhan: I remember receiving this e-mail - an invitation to cook on the South Lawn of the White House for the 136th Annual Easter Egg Roll - I must have read it about 20 times. It was early in the morning, but I rushed and woke my husband to show him. We both were so excited. It was a dream come true. Especially to a girl who grew up in this small town in India, who had the guts to dream big. The entire experience was a memorable one. We were invited to an exclusive tour of the east wing the day prior with a group that included Jim Carrey and the cast of the Dinsey Channel’s JESSIE. From meeting the president and the first lady who were the epitome of grace and warmth, to conducting a demo on the South Lawn of the White House at an event which was attended by over 30,000 people, it was truly a remarkable experience. 33

Maneet Chauhan’s sensational book ‘FLAVORS OF MY WORLD: A Culinary Tour Through 25 Countries’ is a celebration of the finest cuisines from 25 different countries from Argentina to Vietnam. Each dish has a personal story and is with a twist... an Indian delicate twist - the Indonesian Nasi Goreng with an Indian ‘Panch Puran’ spice mix and the Fish and Chips from England, with an Indian spice ‘Ajwain’

Chicken Tikka in Kirbey Cucumber Cups WO’GOA: How did TV discover you and did the fame effect your career as a chef? Maneet Chauhan: When working in Chicago I was invited to do a lot of demos on the local news channels. It was an amazing experience and a lot of fun. When I moved to New York, I was invited to compete on Iron Chef, a show that I always admired and the Iron Chefs to me were icons in the culinary industry. I competed against the legendary Chef Morimoto. I remember being in Kitchen Stadium, pinching myself to make me believe that this was actually happening. From that I was invited to compete on the “Next Iron Chef,” a prestigious competition, where they choose 10 accomplished chef’s from across the country to compete against each other. From there I was invited to be a guest judge on Food Network’s most popular show “Chopped.” After that, I was invited back as a permanent judge. It has been an amazing experience. To me the fame has offered an amazing sense of acknowledgement of one’s hard work and talent. WO’GOA: What is your favorite Indian spice? Is there a particular ingredient that you use in your cuisine? Maneet Chauhan: I love spice. My culinary mantra is “Spice it up!” Each and every spice has its own place. At the present time my favorite spice is “Amchur”- dried raw mango powder. It has such a unique flavor blend. Its tart flavor works beautifully in almost any dish from marinades, to sauces to vinaigrettes. I also love to use it in cocktails and desserts. WO’GOA: Your Signature Spice line, how did this come about? Maneet Chauhan: I wanted to create a line that introduced the Indian spice palate in an approachable way - similar to my cookbook. So I created spice blends that can be used in a wide array of dishes and were not the least bit tricky to work with. 35

Lobster Ginger Salad Rolls 36

Curried Scallops (pau bhaji puree, moong daal salad)

â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is extremely difficult to have a knowledge of one cuisine, let alone many others, but in the hands of someone as knowledgeable, gifted and refined as Chef Maneet Chauhan, the culinary world becomes yours, and your palate will thank you for the journey.â&#x20AC;? Iron Chef Geoffrey Zakarian 37

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Maneet Chauhan: To me creativity is more important. Creativity is what you are born with; you have it or you don’t. Technique is something that can be learned but creativity cannot. WO’GOA: Over the years your vision has helped restaurants earn several accolades, including the award winning best new restaurants. What was your formula and the right ingredients for this success? Maneet Chauhan: Be true to your vision. WO’GOA: After all these years, your culinary journey extends to opening your new restaurant, what inspired this? Would we see a brand new signature fusion in Nashville, Tennessee? Maneet Chauhan: After being the “opening chef” for numerous restaurants, it is so exciting to have a place that I can finally call my own. Regarding the menu, yes, I feel that we have created what I like to call “New Indian Cuisine.” One with global influences. WO’GOA: With all the glamour and hard work, you find time to be involved with a few charities. Could you tell us more? Maneet Chauhan: Charitable work has always been a passion of mine. I truly believe in giving back to a community that has given me so much I work with CRY (Child Rights and You), Giants of Generosity and P.A.V.E. (Partnerships for Action, Voices for Empowerment) just to name a few. WO’GOA: What’s next for Maneet Chauhan? A new book, a new restaurant? Maneet Chauhan: We have an array of exciting plans for the future. I have just been invited back for my seventh year as a full-time judge on Food Network’s Chopped and we are also working on some other interesting projects that will see the light of day in the very near future. Keep an eye out.

W O‘GOA

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CHEFS IN THE CITY

Chef Farooq Baig The Zuri White Sands, Goa Resort & Casino 42

Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

uality is remembered long after the price is forgotten - That is the mantra Chef Farooq Baig lives by. The Executive Chef at The Zuri White Sands is not only decorous he is extremely astute in his dealings with his guests. A trait he imbibed at a very young age growing up in Mumbai. “My brother put me on the right path; he is a passionate foodie and encouraged me to take up hospitality as a profession. Seva (service towards others) came naturally to me and it helped me a lot not only in my career but also in my relations with others and at home. Plastic smiles don’t work, it is important to be genuine and have a positive body language. That is what the hospitality industry is all about.”

Saudi Arabia, Dubai and the Crystal Cruise Liner. Back in India he joined the Park Hyatt, Cansaulim, Goa as a sous chef for the Café Village, he was soon promoted to Chef de Cuisine. Chef Baig’s streak of ambition has now landed him at The Zuri White Sands Resort & Casino where he operates as an Executive Chef.

Chef Farooq Baig’s positive demeanor is evident in the way he deals with his guests at the Waterfalls Cafe, the 24 hour multi cuisine restaurant where a buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner is served daily. We spot him chatting up effervescently with one of the patrons. He later explains to us how he gauges the likes and dislikes of his guests based on where they are from. “People tend to prefer their regional Chef Baig began his culinary journey in the 90’s food, India has plenty of regional food with very at the Taj President, Colaba, Mumbai, where he varied flavors, similarly our Russian guests have a first apprenticed. He then moved on to The Royal penchant for sea food, preferably steamed fish.” Meridien in the Gulf. Always on the lookout for Chef Baig surveys the crowd and cooks up special greener pastures Chef Baig went on to work in dishes to keep his guest happy and at home. “We 43

always interact with our guests and we appreciate feedback whether positive or negative. That ensures better quality”. Atithi Devo Bhavah meaning ‘Guest is God’ is a wonderful gesture practiced by all the staff at The Zuri White Sands. Chef Baig lets us in on an interesting bit of information. The General Manager at The Zuri has initiated the concept of ‘Cocktails with the GM’ where guests are treated to complimentary drinks while they get to give their feedback about the hotel. The staff uses this as an opportunity to up their standards and rectify any mistakes made. The hotel is known for their lavishly catered weddings on their expansive property. Plenty of attention is paid to the guests at these weddings. Chef Baig makes sure he is present to offer alternate options to those that have specific dietary preferences. Other than the Waterfall Café Chef Baig overlooks five other restaurants and bars, the Pan Asian restaurant & lounge – Sake, where guests can also enjoy a meal either dining indoors in air conditioned comfort or out on the terrace. Also on the lobby level is Tangerine, a bar and terrace lounge. The bar area is air-conditioned with laid back sitting and bar stools and adorned with hookahs that guests can smoke. The lounge area has casual seating arrangements including

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a day bed with sheer white drapery & a live band performing most of the time. One can indulge in some exotic cocktails with live entertainment at the Tangerine bar. Enjoy some delectable Goan cuisine at the seasonal beach restaurant and bar (operational from November to April), Fins & Rambooze or the exotic variety of cocktails, pizzas and pastas at the swim–up bar, Blue Lagoon.

Stuffed Malai ushroom

The cuisine at The Zuri White Sands is exemplary to say the least, if the rave reviews are anything to go by. Chef Baig’s inspiration lies again in his guests. Negative criticism is taken as a challenge to improve, while all the compliments are positive reinforcement. His Signature dish, the Cantonese style lobster in crab meat sauce is definitely a show stopper, can be sampled at Sake. He experiments a lot with the Cantonese style of cooking, the kind of which is not easily available in Goa. His innovative take on food can be seen in the form of Vegetarian Sushi and Fruit Sushi, a big hit with children. Fresh seasonal fruit wrapped in rice and Nori sea weed wrap with a dash of chocolate sauce gets the sushi down in seconds! Chef Baig maybe the boss at The Zuri White Sands but at home his wife is the Executive Chef. The health conscious Chef prefers phulkas over pasta with sabzi cooked in minimal olive oil or poached fish with lemon grass and ginger with a dash of soy. He spends his free time at the gym and with his family.

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Rediscovering Chandor 48

the Menezes Braganza House Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

he village of Chandor is almost pristine in its beauty, especially now in the monsoon, with beaches close enough and a stunning remnant of a Shiva temple dating back to the 11th century, situated in Chandor cotta. Ok, so it’s not the famed North coast of Goa, where the party never stops but the North coast would likely not even exist today if not for Chandor. Situated in the South of Goa, about 10 km East from Margao, which is now the new hub of South Goa, Chandor has had a very significant part to play in the history of Goa. Nestled in the brilliance of Chandor is the magnificent Menezes Braganza house, a ginormous home steeped in sheer beauty. The family, who runs the house, has had a long history with Chandor, even before Portuguese and their eventual rule. It is said that ‘the old homes are the keepers of Goa’s chequered past’. Whenever it is that you do make that visit to Chandor, be sure that the Menezes Braganza house is the no. 1 on your to do list. Once the hub of the independence and freedom movement in Goa, it is now just an object of beauty, painstakingly restored over many years and now handled by a family trust. Although the mansion is awash in aristocratic statements and treasures, it does pay to mention here that most of its past splendour is lost because the family had to flee to other safer parts of the country during the Portuguese oppression. It was during their absence that they lost many priceless belongings including jewellery and the like but their biggest loss was the many manuscripts and writings of Tristao de Braganza Cunha (1891-1958). Tristao de Braganza Cunha, popularly known as the Father of Goan nationalism, founded the Goa National Congress Committee in 1928. With the advent of the Jesuit mission led by St.

Francis Xavier in 1542 and the Inquisition soon after, the family was forcibly converted. For the next three centuries, the family worked closely with the government of Portugal. Pleased with its efforts and owing to its financial, social and intellectual status, the Portuguese awarded it the name of the last royal house of Portugal, Braganza. As you enter the grand house through a door underneath the 13th and 14th windows a huge stuccoed balcony hangs over head. Large ornate windows were the norm in Portugal so that returning sailors might identify their houses from the ships. In colonial Goa too, design served a similar purpose - to mark out houses in an era in which symmetry was the norm, and to identify the social status of their inhabitants. The exterior today is white, but the Braganza home was painted in a refined and elegant cream earlier. The choice of colour was informed by social custom - houses were considered â&#x20AC;&#x153;undressedâ&#x20AC;? unless painted - but it had as much to do with the unwritten Portuguese rule that white, being associated with the Virgin Mary, was reserved for churches. You then climb two flights of stairs and are presented with two doors that divide the house between the two knighted families- to the west Menezes Braganza and to the east Perreira Braganza. The west wing opens into a grand salon in deep green. This and the two master bedrooms behind it formed the original structure of the house. The visitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s salon, the study, the library, the ballroom and the present dining room, which are framed around a courtyard, were added in the 17th and 19th centuries. Rare porcelain from Macau brought by the English and Dutch East India Companies dot the walls. There is a huge coconut brought from Seychelles and two thick porcelain vases that belonged to St. Francis Xavier himself. The floors change from 51

room to room- the visitors’ salon has Portuguese tiles, the library Flemish wood, and the ballroom Italian marble. There are crystal chandeliers from Venice and Belgium. Some windows are made of coloured glass from Venice and some of scraped and laminated oyster shells found on Goan beaches. The ballroom is fashioned after Louis XIV’s Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles and a set of dining chairs is carved with the same ‘rose’ design as those found in the dining room of the Buckingham Palace. There is Goan silver, Portugese silver and British silver. A wedgewood dining set, an East India Company dining set laced with gold, and ivory and ebony from China and Japan are kept in glass cases down the length of the dining room. The mansion houses the biggest private library in Goa consisting of 5,000 books in English, French and Portuguese. Elaborately carved wooden furniture in rosewood and teak, some carrying the initials FXB, of their flamboyant owner, adorn all rooms of the house, whether beds, tables, chairs or the florid love seats in the library. The fortunes and future of the house changed with the death of Francis Xavier Braganza in the last decade of the 19th century and the subsequent flight of the royal house of Braganza from Portugal in 1910. Francis Xavier had no sons and hence nominated his first grandson Luis as his heir. Contrary to the Portuguese custom, whereby the maternal name is followed by the paternal name, Luis took his maternal name Braganza alone as his surname. Luis de Menezes Braganza (1878-1932) was an enlightened, self-taught man of letters and a fearless critic of the Portuguese colonial regime. In 1900 he collaborated with like-minded personalities to publish the first Portugueselanguage newspaper, o Heraldo, which became an important source of criticism and social change. In 1911, he started bringing out his own newspaper, o Debate. He also brought out a fortnightly titled Pracasha. This was all eventually shut down by the Salazar regime. 52

When Aida, Tristao de Braganza Cunha late niece returned to the house in 1961, she found that it was completely dilapidated. No one had stayed there except the maids, and three months of monsoon rain every year had taken its toll, especially on the ceilings of the ballroom and the dining room. They had lost a lot of furniture and jewellery. The house was maintained by the income from lands, but all had been lost in the land reforms of 1962. In 1983, having put her children on their feet in Bangalore, Aida came back to Chandor and began to restore the house. The walls, originally painted in vegetable dyes, were carefully repainted to match the exact colour and designs of yore she remembered. The roof and floors were redone and gradually the house came to have some sort of order again. But maintaining the house remains an expensive exercise. With little help from the Goan government and no support from other organisations, Aida opened the house to the public. There is no entrance fee for visitors, who can visit between 9am to 5pm usually but you can call ahead for an appointment. It is recommended that you please drop your donations into the collection box that is available. The donations help maintain the house and all its possessions while keeping it in proper shape. What is most commendable though, in this day and age, is that a family of repute, inspite of harsher times, still wills itself to maintain its, and Goaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, heritage, saving a small pocket of immense value in cultural and historical terms, helping us revisit a part of history. It is stored in the walls of the house, in its very air, in the integrity of its inhabitants and all who help maintain its heritage and if you are lucky, you will hear the story from a descendant, proudly and with fervour, because the Braganza house in Chandor was one of the building blocks of Goa and certainly one of the lynchpins in the evolution of thought in times gone by, whether it was for or against the Portuguese or simply a place where great minds from that era met, to exchange views, plot possible futures. This is potentially the best reason to visit Chandor. Time almost stands still here.

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Institute Menezes Braganza Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

hile Vasco da Gama’s centenary celebrations on his discovery of India was caught up in a nation-wide controversy, in Goa - the former Portuguese colony, a controversy was simultaneously brewing over a 125-year old institute, started in the explorer’s name in 1871. The controversy has no relation with the Vasco da Gama celebrations, but over the ownership of the Portuguese-founded institute, which owns century-old valuable paintings and antiques. The battle between the state authorities and the local intelligentsia has ultimately resulted in the government taking over the ‘autonomous’ institute. Founded as the Institute Vasco da Gama in 1871 to propagate Portuguese culture, it was renamed and reshaped soon after Goan liberation in 1963 in honor of the champion of the Goan Independence movement, Luís de Menezes Braganza, to strengthen Indo-Latin cultural relations and provide an intellectual base through cultural and academic exchange. The Institute Menezes Braganza is now financed by the Art and Culture Department The Institute Menezes Braganza, is a cultural institution, the iconic building can be found at the northwest corner of the Azad Maidan in Panjim. The main entrance hall is decorated with hand-painted blue and white tiles, which was designed by Jorge Calaco, a famous Portuguese painter known for his tile works.

tells the tale of Portugal’s 15th- and 16th-century voyages of discovery. At the centre of the hall way, is a bust of Luis de Menezes Braganza installed on the 24th of November 2013, to commemorate 50 years of his nomenclature at the institute. The institute seeks to promote language and literature, art and culture in the State. Among other activities, it organizes symposia, panel discussions, quizzes, lectures, talks, debates, elocution contests, recitals and performances, conferences, seminars, literary festivals, poets’ meets, workshops, exhibitions, competitions, publishes books, seminar papers, souvenirs, pamphlets, conference proceedings and creates databases. This institute is clearly a hub of cultural activity in the state. It was also known for publishing its regular Bulletin of the Institute Menezes Braganza. It collaborates with other like-minded institutions such as the Indian National Book Trust, New Delhi, Sahitya Akademi, the Goa Konkani Akademi, the Gomantak Marathi Akademi, Gomantak Sahitya Sevak Mandal, among others. According to official documents, its aims are to “focus mainly on the promotion of activities in the fields of Language, Literature, Art and Culture in Goa”.

The institute primarily seeks to promote Goan talent in allied areas and to meet the versatile cultural interests of Goan society as a whole. The Institute prints and publishes a quarterly magazine called ‘Govapuri’. The magazine is published in English, The decoration work of the entrance hall was Konkani, Marathi and Hindi with contributions performed in 1935. It’s worth poking your head from eminent Goan writer. The magazine also in at the building’s west entrance, to examine the encourages young writer to contribute on subjects grand and dramatic azulejos (traditional painted revolving around art, literature and poems. ceramic tiles) adorning the wall, which depict scenes from ‘OsLusíadas’, a famously epic and glorious The art exhibits that used to be housed at the Portuguese poem by LuísVaz de Camões that Institute were moved to the Goa State Museum. 57

They were moved in 2010 when the Institute was being renovated. Over 250 original works in the form of oil paintings, prints, drawings and sculptures of European and Portuguese masters of the 19th century, include the father of modern art Cezanne, Henry Russo, Renoir, Groze, Pissaro and Mattis Broque, a contemporary of Picasso. Most of the prints are signed by the famous painters and would be valued one million dollars each in the international market. The museum also holds over 50 collections of Indian masters like Laxman Pai, Baburao Sadvelkar, Prafull Dahanukar, M F Hussain, Souza, Raza, Ara, Bhosle and Gaitonde among others. Equally valuable are the coins right from the days of Columbus, historically significant stamp collection, ceramics and wood carvings like the inquisition table of 16th century. Set up in 1832, the Institute Menezes Braganza - Central Library, apparently the oldest public library in India can now be found at the Art and Culture Department in Patto, Panjim. Taking a trip down to the Institute Menezes Braganza is a must for anyone living in or visiting Goa. The entrance is brightly lit and transports you to a bygone era. The recently renovated interiors are still ornate and hold on to their old world charm, juxtaposed by young university students attending various art and cultural conferences.

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constructing within nature Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

erard Da Cunha is an eminent architect from Goa. His wonders can be seen all over India. The ecological architect believes in working within the confines of the land he is building on, while not tampering with nature as far as possible. He chats with us about the various causes close to his heart. Off the beaten track, far from the touristy beach belt lays the village of Salvador do Mundo in Torda. The village boasts of some of the finest marvels that can be found in Goa. Here is where architect of repute Gerard Da Cunha manifests his ideas over drawing boards and blue prints. The land he acquired in bits and pieces over the years has come together to form an oasis of great architectural style. The acclaimed architect has in the past received the Commendation Award in Rural Architecture, Designer of the Year Award and the Prime Minister’s National Award for Excellence in Urban Planning and Design. Da Cunha’s Goa based architectural firm Architects Autonomous specializes in ecofriendly, site specific architecture. His firm has over the years been commissioned to create some of India’s iconic structures in the form of resorts, institutions, townships and private residences some of which are Nisha’s Play School in Goa, Nrityagram in Bangalore, the main building and library of Hampi’s Kannada University, Kutiram Tourist Resort in Bangalore, JVSL Township in Torangallu and the Tourist Village in Kerala. He takes time off his busy schedule on a manic Monday to chat with us about how it all started for him at age eight with a Lego set he received as a gift from his father. He knew then that architecture was his life’s calling. His passion for architecture was further fanned when 62

he took a break after his third year at the college of Architecture in Delhi. The year was 1974, the young Gerard Da Cunha, took off to Trivandrum to apprentice with architect, Laurie Baker. The experience was life altering to say the least. Baker’s work ethic and technique is the foundation stone on which Da Cunha has based his style. Through Baker he learnt the importance of working on site, with local materials and local techniques. Da Cunha is selective about the projects he takes on, thus ensuring a very high level of quality. The ecological architect believes in working within the confines of the land he is building on, while not tampering with nature as far as possible. He uses natural materials and does not cut the trees or hills, preferring instead to work around them. Da Cunha’s raison d’être as an architect is to develop his area with great sensitivity; he doesn’t believe in over building, he prefers to nourish the land he lives on with beautiful, natural, eco-friendly structures. Preserving Goa’s unique Indo-Portuguese heritage is another concern close to Gerard Da Cunha’s heart. He was involved in the grand restoration of the Reis Magos Fort. The fort is one of the oldest in Goa and is owned by the Goa government. It is listed under the Goa Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act- an archaic law that restricts major restoration. In 2007, a tripartite agreement was signed between the Government of Goa, INTACH and an English trust called the Helen Hamlyn Trust (HHT) to restore and re-use the fort as a cultural centre. The team got into plenty of trouble with the locals, who thought they were building a hotel in place of the fort. After forging through the battle with the locals the newly restored Fort was thrown open on the 5th of June 2012 as a cultural centre and tourist attraction. 63

This was the first of its kind project in India where a heritage structure was not just restored but reused which in turn continues to generate revenue for its upkeep. The concept is relatively unheard of here in Goa, but Da Cunha believes it is the way forward. “Goa is a small place, our heritage needs to be preserved by being reused, for example the Corguem fort in Aldona can be used as a venue for concerts, art exhibitions, workshops etc while being looked after by the locals of the village. At no extra cost we end up adding value to our surroundings. Any restored monument needs to earn its keep or else it will once again fall into disarray. There needs to be a movement of the people of Goa to reclaim their heritage” explains Da Cunha. His other contribution to Goa is his own museum ‘Houses of Goa’. The museum made of laterite stone, is a unique structure in itself. Built as a traffic island, the landmark museum is built in the shape of a triangle and from a distance resembles a ship. Gerard had initially written a book about the Houses of Goa, after failing to find a publisher he decided to exhibit his findings instead. His exhibition in Panjim opened to rave reviews after which he was invited to show case his exhibition in Portugal, Mumbai and Delhi. The museum is now the permanent home for his exhibition. This museum showcases the houses which were the prime expression of Goan identity. At the first level, he depicts Goa in the context of the world, and then goes on to display the wealth of Goan architecture on the first floor. The second floor, delves into the details of Goan architecture- the doors, windows, railings, construction material, furniture, etc. And on the top he shows the ‘final amalgamation’. The impressive collection is consistently burgeoning with people being gracious enough to loan their rare heirlooms to the museum. Gerard is now working on another museum on the same premises; the new museum will function as the ‘Museum of Indian Architecture’ (MIA). The finances needed for the mega project will be raised through various fund raisers and 64

crowd funding. Gerard takes us around the large sprawling premises; a number of little children are playing by the entrance of Nisha’s playschool- a school owned a run by Gerard’s wife. The school too is architecturally marvelous. Some classrooms have tiny entrance openings where adults would have to stoop to enter. There are no closed areas in the school so as to enable easy accessibility to each child. We even spotted a quaint little doll room with bunk beds in there! The eclectic museum can be spotted in all its glory, built as a traffic island for the school buses to drive around, further up is a large amphitheater with walls made of recycled beer and whiskey bottles- the perfect spot for a live concert. Back at the office we browse through a wide array of Mario Miranda’s merchandise. It began when Miranda had asked Da Cunha to publish a book on his art, soon after Mario was struck with Parkinson’s and Da Cunha took it upon himself to earn money for the Miranda family by selling Mario’s Miranda’s art immortalized on tiles, books, cards and various other merchandise including originals. Da Cunha explains how this is his way of keeping Mario’s Miranda’s legacy alive, he has recently opened another gallery dedicated to Mario Miranda in Panjim. Besides architecture, Da Cunha busies himself with publishing books; he releases a new book every year. He also spends a considerable amount of time conducting workshops for young budding architects. As we speak 25, second year students from all over India are busy attending a 3 day workshop at the museum. We come away inspired by this stalwart of India architecture, one who gives so much to society while adding so much value to his surroundings. Sussegado is one word that does not describe Gerard Da Cunha, who is all ready with his next grand creative pursuit.

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An artistic journey into Goa

Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

Leo Tolstoy famously said “Art is not a handicraft, it is the transmission of feeling the artist has experienced”. The saying holds true for Goa’s resident artist and sociologist Dr. Bernadette Gomes. The former Head of the Department of Sociology at the Government College in Quepem now spends her time recounting her memories on canvas. Dr. Bernadette Gomes grew up at a time when Goa was flourishing and traditions were celebrated with fervor. Her formative years were spent in the cradle of rural Goa, in the picturesque little village of Santo Estevao, colloquially knows as Jua. Her childhood, like most young Goans of the time was steeped in folklore, festivities and tradition. But change as always is constant; modernization, industrialization and westernization took over Goa, the downside of which was tradition getting lost in transition. As Bernadette grew up she began to realize that many of the activities which had been part of her life, that she assumed would be around for all subsequent generations to enjoy, had either vanished or were on their way to extinction. “I was not a child of the cellphone or camera generation, neither the internet nor TV revolution. The humble radio was the high point of our evening entertainment. My ‘eureka’ moment happened when I realized that we may have no visual record of things gone by, no photos, no saved images, no digitized memory. That’s how I got the first feeling that I should at least attempt to sketch and paint what I had saved in my mind” says Bernadette, of her attempt at immortalizing those glory days. Bernadette had put her dreams on hold while she went to study chemistry and botany. Her mind opened up to new ideas while she associated with fellow firebrand thinkers at the campus. Her hunger for knowledge grew and she immersed herself in books on politics, science, future, culture and history. “Those were the 80’s, where Goa had an 66

Artist, sociologist and writer of repute Dr. Bernadette Gomes shows us a glimpse of traditional Goa through her paintings. Marked by vibrant colors and vivid images her art show case Goa’s cultural identity and shared community values, many of which have gotten lost with time.

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active student movement. They were taking up not just student issues, but even issues of civil liberties, workers, and civil society at large. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how I came across Ned Ludd, the anti-industrialization activist. I was bowled over by his writings. Our thoughts about society and ways of living seemed to connect. For a while I joined the students and youth movement in Goa. I got a chance to discover other villages, which fortified my resolve to record everything on canvasâ&#x20AC;? explains Bernadette of her days at college. Her dream of painting continued to follow her while she gathered more information and knowledge. She went on to do her PhD in Sociology in the field of traditional ethno-medicine of Goa, while doing additional research in the villages of Arabo (Pernem), Cuncolim (Salcete) and Baradi (Salcete). Her desire to capture on canvas what she saw and lived through haunted her until recently when she finally put brush to canvas. Once she got her basics together she set herself on the road to recreate her memories, finally turning her dream into a reality. Her artistic endeavors began as a young child. Her elder sister was very good at sketching; together they would be make cards, small sketches, sceneries, along with the other students at their school. Her passion for art until then remained a hobby. Bernadette is self-taught and hones her skill through trial and error. She draws her inspiration from the life of people she grew up with as well as her own experience. It is also the disappearance of many colorful and collective community based events that motivated her to paint, as a tribute to a way of living that is no more. Her favorite themes are people in their diverse walks of life- Working, enjoying, engaging with nature, and so on. Her paintings are an amalgamation of her knowledge of sociology and anthropology with her penchant for art. Her canvas immortalizes culture and tradition with a focus on religious practices, tribal life, customs of the past and community living. The vivid imagery of her paintings infused with her use of vibrant colors, texture and detail double up as a

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sort of time machine. She’s surrendered to the canvas with an experimental hand to bring history to life. One of her mesmerizing paintings is of the Dhond firewalkers at Shirgaon Zatra, one of the most important and interesting zatras of Goa. The day-long festival honors the Goddess Lairai Mata. Prayers are offered to the Goddess after which devotees walk over smoldering embers to wash away their sins. It is said that only those who are pure have no burnt feet. Her memory of the zatra burnished into her mind, has been indelibly marked on canvas. This is one of the few traditions that can is still kept alive. Bernadette has recreated many long forgotten traditions through her paintings like the Feti- a night long rice pounding ceremony which was done by the Kunbis of Goa to honor of their ancestors, Shuddh Dasam- a ceremony held during Dusserah to drive away demons and spirits possessing people, the famous Siolim Zagor where the main senior singer Dadi wears white and red, and the Zagorio dons colourful head gear, while Zagor has become rarity in Goa since the 1960s, the Siolim Zagor is a certainty in the last days of December. If art is an expression of what one loves then it is evident that Bernadette’s love of keeping the past alive for the future generations shines through in what she does. “I would only like to give to the present generation of youngsters, a small peep into a life that they may never experience. Through these paintings they would at least understand how the society in which they live differs from their previous generations who lived very differently. An insight into how their own society has evolved through so many diverse activities and celebrations. As for the rest of the people, if my paintings reminded them of their own childhood and lifestyle, I would be happy” that is the ethos behind Bernadette’s art. Her artistic journey into the past has only just begun. You can find Dr Bernadette Gomes art displayed at exhibitions at The Kala Academy in Panjim.

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CANDOLIM Text

Jasmine Chopra

may not be a Goan by birth but my exposure to Goa is far greater than that of your average Goan. I have had the good fortune to have been raised both in the North and South. I have lived in a nostalgic Goa having been a resident of Betalbatim, Cavelossim, Saligao and Old Goa. Then came the two homes that were different to its predecessors. Calangute, which emerged to become a tourism hotspot and Candolim, its brother, living up to the older sibling. I was being exposed to contrasts, and it was unlike a Goa I’d know until then. I allow my mind to venture back to the years of my childhood, where on Candolim beach I was darkened by the sun and exposed to the concept of a ‘touristy’ Goa. It was a job opportunity that saw my family move to Candolim and it was from there that I made the commute to school during the best years of my childhood. I must say, I had the most fun years of my childhood in Candolim.

Candolim has for 2 decades been at the heart of all tourist activity in the state. Every tourist that ventures to Goa would be acquainted with the following names. Candolim, Calangute and Baga rings a bell with almost anyone. Personally, I’d be impressed if they weren’t aware of the above trio and give them credit for not narrowing their understanding of Goa as of late it reeks of commercialism and modernity. However, it could be argued that what does one know of a touristic Goa if they know nothing about these places?

In a contest of tourism popularity, Calangute and Candolim were the reigning champions. It is no secret that Candolim is not your typical Goan village; it has after all been crafted and tailored to attract the hoards of tourists that flock to its shores and streets. Yet, in its back streets, that home its residents, it is like any other village. Laid back, rustic and a little slow. Goats amble along the winding roads, water is drawn from wells, the horn of the poder sounds repetitively and family homes, with its generations of catholic families line the streets that lead to the beach. Historically, Candolim influenced the shaping of Goan culture and identity. The founder of the Science of Hypnotism, Father Abbe Faria was born in the village and furthermore became famous for staging the first revolt against the Portuguese. Fast forward a century and an array of hotels, restaurants and night clubs replace its former glory as it moved with the times and indulged a little more than necessary in the leisure industry. The leisure industry has boomed in Candolim due to its close proximity to the coast and it’s ‘nothing is too far’ positioning. It is sandwiched between the village of Sinquerim to the north and Calangute to the south and is connected via a coastal road to the city of Panjim making it very accessible to the common tourist. Fort Aguada, the name suggests as it is a must visit for anyone venturing to Candolim. A stone’s throw away and located in Sinquerim , if one were to walk the stretch of the coastline they’d find themselves staring at a piece of history. Its serene views over the sea must have been witnessed through the eyes of many for centuries and it never fails to amaze. It is the perfect getaway for couples and families alike and a particularly cosy spot to watch the sunset. Candolim beach has always been one of the busiest in Goa yet still through the years managed

to maintain its beauty. Perhaps, being blessed with its wide shore and long stretch of coastline, the hundreds of tourists that frequented it, were spread across a wide enough area not to cause unrepairable damage. Convenient damage control one might argue. Until, the once famous â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;River Princessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, an ore carrying barge became grounded during the millennium and overstayed her visit. Her visit was to change the course of the tides and change the face of the beach forever. The once undisturbed vista of the Arabian scene was now disturbed by an unsightly giant. People learnt to live with the eye sore but the damage she caused couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be ignored. The proximity of the barge to the shore was hazardous, and rip tides and currents made swimming even in shallow waters unpredictably dangerous. As the barge simultaneously disintegrated and harboured itself deeper into the seabed, marine life scampered and local fisherman complained of a shortage of seafood. That aside, the general health of the ocean was questionable. Oil leakage, rust debris and other toxics that oozed from the metal structure were jeopardising the environmental sanctity of the area. However, 12 years passed in much debate and controversy over her removal and the river princess was successfully dismantled and retracted from the site once and for all. The beach, for one, is slowly on the road to transformation once again. The sad reality however is that the beach aside, transformation might not be progressive but rather more stagnant. Every bit of land has been built on, some even rebuilt on. Hotels sprout faster than coconut trees and establishments change managements seasonally. Candolim has past its prime, so maybe what was forgotten of the old will need to be rediscovered for fear of the new dying out.

The Sea reflected in Goan Folklore Teotonio R. de Souza

here have been praiseworthy recent efforts at describing and analyzing this aspect of Goa’s social and cultural evolution. One can look up for an interesting essay by Venugopalan Nair on “Jagar as a Discourse” of the Goan Gawda community at the following link http://bit. ly/1vY7iTM. Those willing to read a more elaborate research study of Goan Konkani Tiatr can read a seminal essay “Essentialist and Epochalist Elements in Goan Popular Culture-A Case Study of Tiatr” (1986), contributed to Political and Economic Weekly (Bombay) by Pramod Kale, or consult the published Ph.D. thesis of André Rafael Fernandes entitled When the Curtains Rise… (Saligão: Goa1556, 2010). The folk cultural expressions can only be understood in the historical contexts. Being somewhat isolated from the mainstream dominant politics, these folkloric expressions tend to represent a long term sedimentation of popular life experiences and consequently can survive longer. Even so, there are limits to such a survival, and they too are overtaken by the changing times and social ethos. I have tried on more than one occasion to draw attention in my writings [http://bit.ly/1B7jqED] to Goan Konkani proverbs or mhunn’neo as a form of Goan folkore that contained the sedimentation of the colonial experiences of the Goan rural folk [http://www.ciberduvidas.com/articles. php?rid=350]. Sebastião Rodolfo Dalgado did a yeoman service to their preservation through his posthumously published Florilégio dos Provérbios Concanis (Coimbra, 1922). The evolution of Konkani in postcolonial Goa will greatly determine the changes in the evolution of the Goan Konkani proverbs and their contents. This change is bound to make it difficult for the new generations to make sense of the old registers of the Goan mhunn’neo. There have been scholars who have suggested that the name of Goan territory originated from pre-

Arian Mundari language. More specifically from guwi, meaning the rice ear.Probably the same derivation may be applied to the designation gawdas, the primitive inhabitants of Goa engaged in rice cultivation. But is it likely that the Ocean stayed out of the Goan experiences, when there were koli and kharvi who depended on the sea for their survival? I believe that the name of Goa’s Salcete taluka may not be necessariy derived from sadu + sasht (seventy seven), but from shasta or the sea. This hypothesis could explain the title shas¬tadeva assumed by some Kadamba rulers who established their maritime control over Goa (secs. X-XI), with their capital in Chandor, just as was done by a most powerful Gupta ruler of the IV c. calling himself Samudragupta (samudra = oceano). We have also the case of Samudri raja of Calicut, known to the world through the Portuguese since the arrival of Vasco da Gama in India. It is only recently that the beach tourism has become important for the economy of Goa and is affecting seriously the social life of the Goans and the ecology of the place. However, the location of Goa at the centre of the west coast of the subcontinent, plus its major rivers and enviable sea port, contributed to the internationalization of Goa since very distant times. We have epigraphic evidence of the XI c . referring to African and Asian ports that traded with Goa. Before that period the Bhojas who ruled in Goa patronized Buddhism which is known for the promotion of the commercial activities since the times of the silk route, taking the Indian cultural influence to China, Japan and Southeast Asia. The Goa Kadambas favooured the Jains, another community that is known for its commercial engagement on a big scale. The similarity of place names in Salcete and Gujarat suggest distant social and commercial exchanges on the

basis of the maritime commerce. When the Arabs entered India in the IX c. They must have come across in Goa a well-integrated network of AfroAsian maritime trade. They extended this links, and when the Portuguese conquered Goa following the advice of Timmaya, a local captain in the service of the ruler of Honawar, Goa had dry docks where ships were manufactured and repaired. It was also a mart for import of Persian horses for distribution throughout interior of the India subcontinent. We have several contemporary descriptions by foreign travellers of the commercial importance of Goa as an entreport.

dependent upon the political systems based in the interior. That explains why Goa remained under various foreign dynasties, at least fourteen of them known to us, both Hindu and Muslim, until the arrival of the Portuguese. In such circunstances the Goan villages were obliged to pay quit rents and other taxes in cash. There was a tax farming system in place. Nessas condigOes as comunidades das aldeias de Goa eram forgadas a pagar o foro e outros tributos em moeda. The Portuguese maintained that system for pragamatic reasons.

Konkan region did not have a self-sufficient economy to maintain an autonomous politicalmilitary organization. It remained for long

The sea in the daily life of the Goans The religious beliefs and practices must be viewed as representing deep sentiments of any people. They

Consequently, as a result of the economic evolution we just mentioned and the impact of The Goan society and the sea the urban economy gaining ground, the feudal The Goan society, as in much of the rest of Indian structure was breaking down in the Goan society subcontinent, got structured in caste system with during centuries that preceded the arrival of the the brahmins in control and the other castes Portuguese. The lower castes in the villages were providing multiple services for ensuring the stability finding opportunities to escape the constriction of the agrarian society. The agrarian economy of the village economy by providing services to determined the stability and development of the urban sector. We have documentary evidence to regions in the upper courses of the rivers where the this effect for Goa in the XVII century. There are irrigation permitted the rice cultivation. The sandy frequent cases in which the village artisans require soil and the salty waters of the coastal villages were payment in cash and are not accepting any longer not favourable for cultivation of rice and legumes. the compensation in kind. It may be observed that in traditional rural Goa the coastal villages are all populated by the non- One could conclude from the above that the Goan brahmin castes, while the Brahmins had taken society was no longer exclusive sea-oriented. On the control of the fertile arable villages of the interior contrary, it was predominantly landward oriented, as I had pointed out in my published research in but infliuenced by the coastal activities. This is very Medieval Goa (1979). It was a society organized different from the superficial impression that the into village communities called ganvkari in local proximity of the sea made Goa sea-dependent. language. That was the system which prevailed all The same was true of Portugal till late XIV century, over India, and later gave way to jagirdari under despite its long Atlantic coast, and being known as the Muslim rule, and to zamindari under the British Finisterra. Had it not been for the rising middle rule. The same change had also started in Goa class and the arrival of the Italian seamen fron under the influence of the Bahamanis and Bijapur Genoa and Florence, who were pushed out by the ater 1471. Even before this period Goa had begun Venetians at the end of the Crusades, the history of to feel the impact of monetization of economy in Portugal would be very different. Portugal turned the Konkan region, differently from the reality in seaward due the above mentioned factors, and the interior where the barter economy prevailed the battle of Aljubarrota against Castille in 1583 much longer. served as a launching pad for the change.

usually refer to the most important individual and social needs. They find a place in the folklore of the people and become a part of their subconscious. We can see how these were present in the Goan folklore. The sea in the religious expressions The traditional Goan religious expressions are based on Hindu beliefs. The Christian beliefs entered later. Religious syncretism resulted from a long-term co-existence. The traditional Hindu beliefs and practices were better integrated ecologically. The imported religions, such as Christianity, could hardly do the same despite centuries of adaptation. Conversions therefore can never be total, and syncretism is unavoidable. Goa is no exception in this regard. A mythological account in India tells us that god Indra had lost control over the three worlds after he was cursed by the rishi Durvasas, who had felt insulted. The gods were then threatened by the evil spirits (daityas) and had to approach Lord Brahma for protection. He directed them to Lord Vishnu who alone had the control of the devils. He rests upon the ocean and has a sea shell as his symbol of power. Lord Vishnu instructed the gods how to go about beating the waters of the ocean in its depths, until they could find the nectar of vital energy. During this operation of samudramanthan they had to seek the assistance of the devils. Vishnu promised to help the gods when the time arrived of getting hold of the nectar. During the churning process there appeared fourteen charming jewels (ratnas) which tempted the gods to stop the operation. Vishnu disguised as a charming female distracted the devils and escaped with the cup of nectar which he gave to the gods. They then recovered their powers and the harmony was restored in the three worlds.

later Indra entered the Hindu pantheon of gods, and god VarunaÂ´s jurisdiction was limited to the oceans. With Mahabharata and Bhakti cult we see a ressurgence of Vishnu. The Vaishnava sect is the most widespread among the Goan Hindus in Salcete e Bardez. There are other popular beliefs that refer to gods and goddesses of the seas. It was not only in the sea and river ports that temples and mosques were erected. They were also built in the interior that benefitted from the maritime trade. Matsya purana was written around II and VI c. of Christian era, and it refers to the commercial exchanges between India and Southeast Asia during the rule of Sakas, Satavahanas and Guptas. During the Gupta age it was common to celebrate the rites known as Sapta-Sagara Mahadana in the five major urban centres of the empire, namely in Mathura, Prayaga, Pataliputra, Ujjain e Varanasi. Samudra Kupa were sacred lakes that represented the seven oceans and the beneficiaries of foreign trade would return to the lakes to give thanks to gods for their sucess. Despite the so-called kalapani tradition that prohibited the brahmins from engaging in overseas voyages that were viewed as dangerous for the caste purity, it is obvious from the religious traditions here mentioned that the prohibition was not observed in practice or could be forgiven with rituals and offerings to gods. There was a good collaboration between the men and gods of the sea!

I wish to mention here the ritual in India,including Goa, called narli poornima which coincides with the full moon of the month of Shravan (JulyAugust) of the Hindu calendar. It includes offerings of coconuts, flowers incense sticks to god Varuna at the confluence of rivers, or where there rivers meet the oceans. It is a ritual that marks the opening of the sea to navigation and the end of One may conclude from this mythological story monsoon season. The fishermen can resume their that Indians were always aware of the opportunities fishing activities. The Christians of Verem in Bardez that the ocean provides to gather riches. But they commemorated this day till recently with a paraalso believe that they need to seek them with the liturgical service conducted by the parish priest of help and protection of the supreme god Vishnu. the Church dedicated to St Lawrence (Linhares), But even before the Mahabharata period, the Vedic who accompanied the general of the rivers till the aryans created Varuna, the god of the oceans, middle of Aguada bay and blessed the waters. In as the supreme god who maintained the cosmic the other villages the ritual was substituted by ritual order (rti) and was known as rtasya gopa. Much cutting of the new rice ear on August 15. 76

Daryant asa maso, allem vanttun dovorta piso Both Hindus and Christians of some villages [The fish is in the sea, but the fool has already the celebrate the festival of sangod in which the curry prepared for it] boats are tied to each other and carry an image To say that good days and bad days alternate: of saint mounted on them, usually an image of St, Daryak sukti ani bharti asa Peter or St. John the Baptist. In the case of Hindus [There is always a high tide as well a low tide]. they carry amn image of Ganesha in Kumbarjua island. Among the Hindus sangod rite seems to One could multiply the proverbs that convey the commemorate also the memory of shift of their influence of the sea upon the Goan life. There gods to the interior when the Portuguese demolished are also many popular riddles (humannyom) that their temples in the Old Conquests of Goa during convey popular feelings of familiarity with the sea, the first decades of the Portuguese occupation of fish, boats, etc. The riddles usually test our ability the territory. to observe our surroundings. For instance: Tisrea disa kasalem vikall zaunchem? What turns into The sea in the Goan proverbs and songs poison on the third day? The anwer of a Goan is: Here follow some folkloric expressions in Konkani the fish or a guest. referring to the sea. I have chosen a few from the earlier mentioned book of S. R. Dalgado. Finally, I could refer to a couple of expressions in To say that wealth produces more wealth and the the form of lullabies and mandde. poverty leads to more poverty: [I feel at time an immense desire of going to the Bhartechem pani sorona, Suktechem pani thara beach, na. To laugh and dance like the green-dark waves, [The high tide is not drained, low tide is not stopped] I love to see the shells, It looks as if there is a heaven at the bottom of the To say that there is proper place for everything: ocean] Doriant hoddem, tadir ghoddem [Boat in the sea, horse on the land] Ken’na ken’na dista maka daria deger vatchem, Pachvea-tchar lhara bhaxen, hansat hansat To denounce pretensions: natchem, Horxem bangdde tis, parbhuche bhiddek vis [Usually I give 30 mackerels, but for the prabhu Ximpio, shank polloun maka dista apurbai, Anik ek sarg bhitor udkant asa kai? (noble caste) I give 20] To say that it is easier to silence the roaring of the sea than to stop a wagging tongue: Daryachi gaz punn bhandum iet, Mun’xachi jib bandhum nozo Equivalent to the English saying “To carry coal to Newcastle”: Daryant paus is like saying “pouring water into the sea”. To say that little knowledge is boisterous: Darya samadhan chalta, vahal gosgoxit vanvta [the sea flows quietly, the rivulet is noisy] To say that someone achieved big feats, but succumbed to small challenges: Darya bhonvun ailo, ani kondant vochum melo [travelled across oceans, but died in a pond] To say that someone lives on phantasies and is hardly practical:

For the Goans the presence of sea in their lives is not limited to fish, salt and shells for preparing the lime for white-washing the houses, but it was a resource of survival for many who had to find a job as seaman (tarvotti) in the British merchant navy. The emigration and separation of the loved ones entered into the popular lyrics. Here is an example: A young bried, seated on the sea-shore, counts the waves and her eyes reach out to the horizon looking for a ship that may bring back her lover / husband to her embrace and home. It does not convey dispair, but anxiety and anticipated happiness of a reunion. Doriache deger, Boisun muje maim, Lharam mejitam (bis) Poti mozo ietolo mhunnum Axen rabotam. 77

A day in the life of Parrá Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

arra is a quaint little village in Bardez, North Goa. It is close to the town of Mapusa and the villages of Saligao, Calangute, Assagaon, Anjuna and Vagator. Land area wise Parra is quite vast but most of it is agricultural land with pockets of residential land. It is also quite close to capital city of Panjim. While researching Parra I stumbled upon some interesting trivia- A resident of Parra is called “Porrikar” and Parra used to be famous for sweet, red watermelons available in large quantities along many of its quaint little lanes and roads and for sure near Mapusa in huge mounds. I hope I stumble upon some of those watermelons on this hot sunny day.

Heart of Jesus School’, set up by the late Walter D’souza on the 5th of January 1912 the school was initially set-up in his wife’s house in Parra. The second oldest English medium school in Goa catered specifically to English education. Walter died at the age of 35 of the World War I epidemic known as the ‘Spanish Flu’ or ‘La Grippe’. It was the most devastating epidemic in recorded world history. Once a person was infected, death was certain. It is interesting to note that in Goa, most alcoholics survived the disease. In fact, Walter’s family doctor advised him to drink alcohol but since he never drank, he rejected his advice and became a victim of the flu. The school went on to flourish, with a number of distinguished alumni that include Intrigued, I drive down to the village of Parra and some very prominent Goans like the principal what I see does not surprise me it is beautiful, as of Dempe College Dr SN Lawande, Judicial most of Goa is. Palm bedecked roads, ponds that Commissioner Tito Menezes, public prosecutor Leo spring up and get filled during the rains that attract Gama, mining magnate M S Talaulikar and former laughing and playful children. Temples, churches, editor of Marathi daily Gomantak. lakes and lush fields that calm you with every glance and a history that goes back a very long way. You will also, apparently, find many goldsmiths My first stop is the Parra Church dedicated to St. staying in the village pf Parra, so if that is something Anne. The Franciscan Rectorate, or executive you like and can find the right artisan, you could governing body, of St. Anne, comprising the villages potentially find someone to craft you gold jewelry in of Parra, Canca and Verla, was established between a style handed down through many generations of 1650 and 1653 and was affiliated to the Parish of goldsmiths. There are also famous manufacturers Nagoa. The Church of St. Anne was founded in the of beautiful imitation jewelry Gregory and year before, in 1649, by the Franciscan Fathers and Nicholas, who are Parra residents. This jewelry is like many Churches of Goa built at the time, was also marketed countrywide. Parra has, as one of constructed of mud and a thatched roof. This first its other attractions, a place called ‘Titto’, where church of Parra was burnt down by the Marathas in four lanes meet, one to Guirim, one to Calangute 1683, and was rebuilt in 1688 with much stronger – Baga, one to Anjuna and one to Mapusa. There material. Beautiful murals bedeck its vast ceiling are a few general stores here, local bars and small which is still very well maintained to this day. A visit chai shops (tea) but the recommendation will be to Parra will not be complete without a stop here, to to seat yourself at the local bar, mingle with the evening crowd and drink the local brew. There are seep in the past, which still lingers on. two taverns you must visit, The Vintage ‘Moti Bar The village of Parra is also quite famous, for a (Loja de Vinhos Nativos) which was built in 1892 at pioneering English Institution called ‘The Sacred Sales Vaddo. It is said the despite the fact that the 79

feni (the local brew made with cashew nuts)now is a badly watered down version of the age-old Goan traditional drink, these establishments somehow manage to serve quality feni. And like wasps to a flame, the local brotherhood throng to these watering-holes at Anjelus time. And one might even hear a voice singing, Uddon gelem paruveamchem birem... The undulating topography of Parra dissolves in the vast, fertile sandy plains, and sprawls over 3.5 square kilometres of picturesque countryside where you will find the beautiful Naganath Mahadev Temple on the Mapusa-Candolim road and a couple of lakes in that help irrigate the fields during summer- one of the lakes situated in Verla, is called ‘Ganesh Tollem’ and is supposed to have a tunnel linking it to the dhobi lake. Parra’s other main attractions are Alvito Santiago’s Alva Mar Restaurant and Alex Saldanha’s Emerald Lawns where big parties and wedding celebrations take place in this ‘Open Air Hall.’ There is also another must stop if you are in Parra, The home & décor store cum art gallery on the Mapusa-Parra road called Habitat. If the village life has enticed you enough to want to make a trip to Parra, then rest assured accommodation and quaint restaurants are plentiful and available in every budget. While browsing the net I found a contemporary villa in the much sought Parra, North Goa, Bedrooms: 3, Sleeps: 6 Rates: From £1,850 per week! Not village rates for sure. The Art Café Parra is another place one must visit when in the vicinity. Settle into some nice healthy organic muesli or granola, fresh fruit salad, fresh fruit juices and shakes, OMEGA 3 packed smoothies, homemade crepes and farmers omelets. My trip to the village was a mix of tradition and modernity. The Porrikars of yore now move around the tiny palm bedecked lanes in fancy cars but their connection with their past remains strong as ever. I drive home past the paddy fields savouring its delicate beauty as I contemplate this wonderful fusion. I bid farewell to Parra as I take in yet another breath taking sunset in glorious Goa.

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Private Party at Watatsumi

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GOA & BEYOND - DUBAI, U.A.E.

Quiz Night on Mondays is the battle of the brains, guests are invited to particpate at no cost and get a chance to win excellent prizes with the first prize being a brunch for eight worth AED2,400 or second, four ubk drink vouchers worth a total of AED1,000. Every Tuesday is the Lads Night, great deals including a bucket of selected hops, draft hops or a bottle of grape beverage. Ladies run the ubk world every Wednesday with their first house drink for free and great specials on bubbly. Gourmet Burget and the people have spoken. ubk is home to some of the city’s best burgers. Choose from three gourmet varieties with hand cut chips and selected house beverages every Thrusday. Fish and chips go well on a Friday. Enjoy crisp, golden loveliness with a house beverage. Don’t miss out on ubk, the service is brilliant and the staff is great. ubk is located at Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers, Cluster A. www.facebook.com/ubkdubai

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The Leela Kovalam

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In keeping with the stark, yet stunning setting at the Leela Kovalam, the rooms are arranged in three unique sections, however rest assured, every room and every wing comes with complimentary sea views and or sunsets. When size does matter, it could not be anything other than the Club Suite. The Club Suites offers all the advantages of the Club along with the luxury of absolute space. With a daylight 5 feature bathroom, extended work desk and private sundeck which has its own sun bed, the hardest part would be to step down to reality when you check out.

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The Tides

GOA & BEYOND - TRIVANDRUM, INDIA

With a setting so splendid, can the dining be any less? The Leela Kovalam offers with a wide range of wining and dining facilities. The Terrace serves a multicuisine buffet which that’s open 24 hours, The Terrace offers guests an awe-inspiring view of the Arabian Sea and a pleasing array of choice too. The Sky Bar, perched on the clifftop has an unmatched view of the sun setting over the Arabian Sea. This open lounge with a modern and trendy design offers a wide range of alcoholic & nonalcoholic beverages, specialized cocktail bar & live tapas kitchen serving international fusion snacks. The Bar, at this cosy bar located at lobby level, one can choose from an impressive and extensive collection of drinks. The more adventurous should ask the bartender for one of his innovative cocktails. The Café at The Club is an exclusive all-day restaurant is where residents of The Club can indulge in a host of international dishes, including authentic Kerala cuisine.

The Sky Bar

The Living Room and The Library at The Club is exclusively for the pleasure of guests at The Club, Club residents can lounge around while enjoying a favorite drink or cigar. The Tides is an elegant beach side restaurant with a rustic ambience offers Chinese and Thai cuisine and also boasts of a fresh seafood grill.

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GOA & BEYOND - DUBAI, U.A.E.

Dinning on an open to sky cruise includes:

Xclusive Cruise is an award winning Dinner Cruise Company in Dubai. It provides once in a life-time experience to guests to encounter the shorelines of new Dubai while you grab a bite from their 5-star buffet. A perfect way to spend quality time with family and friends while Dinning and Cruising along Dubai’s coastline. Xclusive Cruise houseboats are elegantly designed with luxurious interiors and exteriors and provide matchless style and comfort for it’s guests. The luxury cruise sails through the most known landmarks of Dubai Marina, the Palm Jumeirah (dubbed as the eight wonder of the world) and Burj Al Arab, the 7 Star Hotel. The Journey On-board soothes your senses with lapping sounds of the waves and Dubai’s tropical balmy breeze as the elaborately structured glass boat gently glides through the clear, blue sea water. Whether you spend just an hour or an entire evening, you’ll always find Xclusive Cruise charter boat services to be exceptional and five starred, making sure that your cruising adventure remains eventful and memorable. Dining under the open sky and around Dubai city lights it is not just an imaginary feeling – it’s a beautiful ambience on Dubai’s beautiful waters. A perfect family dinner or a corporate gathering or a romatic date, its just perfect way to go about it...A Dinner Cruise. For those who want to have a sightseeing experience and enjoy the Dubai skyline by night, Xclusive Cruise does a brilliant Marina Sight Seeing Cruise which is approximately one hour of cruising along the elegant Dubai Marina.

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SUNSET CRUISE | DINNER CRUISE | MIDNIGHT CRUISE

Only

AED

250 per person

P. O. Box 126012, Dubai, UAE res@xclusivecruise.com www.xclusivecruise.com Like us on & win! facebook.com/xclusivecruise

Call now to book your Xclusive experience

04 457 3185 115 53

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The Lalit Legacy Suite The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort Goa is an all suite resort located along the pristine Goan coastline, offering a breathtaking view of the Arabian Sea. With an international standard Double ‘T’ 9-hole Links golf course, a holistic spa and a private beach, it is one of the most exquisite beach resorts in Goa. With 255 suites including 10 luxury villas designed in Baroque-Portuguese style architecture along with Goan design touches, the resort provides one with a wide range of options to choose from for an unforgettable stay experience. The resort also has its own helipad for those coming in their private aircraft. With a plethora of amenities and facilities along with customised offers and packages, The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort Goa is the ideal destination to head for in Goa. The Lalit Legacy Suite provides an ideal experience for comfort and luxury. Your personal butler will take care of your every need. The two bedroom suite with separate dining area, powder room and a kitchenette also comes with a balcony overlooking the swimming pool and the endless Arabian Sea. Garden View is embedded in luxury, the suite is one of the most spacious ones in Goa. The view of the beautifully landscaped garden from the ground floor suite and the scenic beauty of the hotel’s sprawling garden or the Arabian Sea from the first floor suite is a treat to the eyes. One can ‘Live Life King Size’ at the The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort Villas, The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort offers three and four bedroom luxurious villas spread over 5000 sqft. Overlooking the golf course or the Arabian Sea, the villa exudes immaculate luxury, privacy and comfort. Inspired by Portuguese architecture, the villas offer three/four bedroom with en-suite Jacuzzi bathrooms, a living room, dining room and guest powder room. The opulence of the dining room is further enhanced by a fully equipped modular kitchen, a private balcony overlooking the sea or the golf course. Outside the villa, the private plunge pool, landscaped garden and gazebo invite you to relax in sheer solitude. 118

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The Zuri White Sands Resort and Casino Situated on the shore of the Varca beach in South Goa, The Zuri White Sands Resort and Casino epitomises Goaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true spirit and flavour. As the leading five star deluxe property in Varca, the resort offers the best in accommodation and cuisine with plenty of facilities and services to play the perfect host. An attractive feature of the resort is the gigantic meandering swimming pool that stretches across the resort making for a location that is a grand sight to behold. Featuring a view of the beautiful lawns and adjoining the meandering pool, the rooms face the garden with a breathtaking view of the sea on the outside. Chic in decor and detail, every spacious room at The

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Zuri Varca is designed to keep you as comfortable as can be, offering the finest combination of style, luxury, comfort and service. With 154 well appointed rooms and 4 luxurious suites, every room is furnished with elegance and refinement and comes with contemporary conveniences. The newly opened Casino â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Dunesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is the only existing kind on land in Goa. Dunes at The Zuri presents a great place to add a little more excitement to any holiday. This is where guests can play to their hearts content. The biggest and the finest in Goa, where the business of having a good time is pursued with serious intent!

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Hotel Fortune Goa

estled in the quiet countryside of Candolim, facing verdant fields and rolling hills is the Hotel Fortune Goa. Away from the hustle and bustle of the crazy beach belt, yet close to the heart of the action, Hotel Fortune Goa caters to guest looking for a relaxing vacation away from the chaos, yet close to the heart of the action. Early mornings are still broken by the sounds of chirping birds, and the friendly neighborhood Poder, as he honks away vending fresh Goan bread. Time moves slow as you near the hotel foyer. You begin to soak in the whole Goan village experience, from the very first glance at the Hotel Fortune Goa’s façade. Built in the compound of an old Goan Nana (Granny), the Hotel Fortune Goa has been designed keeping local aesthetics in mind, and has even retained a pillar and “Poyel” (concrete bench) from the original building. Hotel Fortune Goa has been built by ACRON, which is a pioneer in the real estate sector in Goa, with over 26 years of experience. With an eye for detail, and an uncanny ability to blend native architecture with contemporary design themes, ACRON has cut no corners in the design of its flagship 5 starred hotel. Hotel Fortune Goa offers a selection of 102 well appointed rooms including Deluxe Rooms, Fortune Luxury Rooms, Suites and a Room for the differently abled persons. The rooms have been tastefully adorned with a contemporary style décor, equipped with all

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modern amenities that complement the taste of the modern day traveler. All rooms offer a private balcony and some of the rooms have a pool and landscape view. The hotel offers a wide selection of Food and Beverage options. Orchid is a large multi cuisine restaurant, catering to a wide set of tastes with its buffets. Nostradamus the in-house lounge bar that caters to traveler looking to relax over a few beers while watching live sporting events. Earthen Oven is the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature stand alone North Indian cuisine restaurant and the Neptune Lounge Bar serves a wide choice of beverages. The hotel creates a balance between a relaxing atmosphere and fun activities to keep the guest entertained while on the property. The swimming pool has been designed with children in mind and it is child friendly, a submerged bar at the deeper end to keep the adults entertained. The activity center is located around the swimming pool area, and every evening the thotel organizes a fun evening where guest engage in games and fun activities The stand out feature of the hotel is its prime location, which is close to the beach, yet far from the chaos. The location of the hotel allows one to explore all the awesome recreational facilities available inhouse, while keeping you close to the heart of the action. A free beach shuttle that takes guest to the beach and Earthen Oven, located a short 500mts away. Indulge in water sports at the beach or just laze under a coconut tree. Hotel Fortune Goa is located about 3 kms away from the historic Fort Aguada, and the Aguada Lighthouse. A 5 min drive to either go boating, fishing, and to get on a dolphin cruise. The famed churches of Old Goa and temples of Mangueshi and Shanthadurga are also conveniently located. Should the club scene excite you, Hotel Fortune Goa is located just a short drive from the most happening clubs in Goa.

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Shanti Morada

away from the crowds... elegant boutique hotel in Saligao

To understand Shanti Morada, the new boutique hotel in the North Goan village of Saligao, you must look to Shanti Home sister hotel in New Delhi which in its six years of existence has gained a reputation as one of the finest places of its kind in the country. It won TripAdvisor 2013’s and 2014’s “Best Small Hotel in India” and “Best Service in India”, as well as the 2013 – NDTV and Brands Academy “Best Boutique Hotel in Delhi” and Primetime’s “Best Boutique Hotel in Delhi”. Shanti Morada is a boutique concept hotel with a unique personality, showcasing Indian art, tradition and culture. It’s tucked away in Saligao, a picturesque village known for its culturally enriched society and the only Gothic-style church in Goa. “Casa de Morada” (Home of Happiness), built well over a century ago in 1897, has been painstakingly restored over the last 8 years. The quiet location along with its antique Indian décor, gives the hotel an attractive and personalized touch. During the site excavation, the old foundation cross of the original 1897 house was found, and this has been restored to its original location within the compound wall. A wrought iron grill was also found during construction work and this was used as the model for all grill and pattern work across the property. Various uniquely themed rooms with beautiful Old Goan beds, set 126

around a gorgeous pool hidden amongst the greens, create a unique atmosphere for any break. With beautiful antiques and handpicked furniture dating back 300 years, each of the 20 individually themed 500 sq. ft luxury rooms take you back to a different era. Extremely well appointed, all the rooms come with large bay windows overlooking the courtyard and the swimming pool. Each room also features a balcony with outdoor seating, plus a walk-in rain shower and stand-alone claw foot copper bathtub (a rather stunning addition). O-3 The Ozone Pool. The first and only ozone filtered pool in Goa. Amazing fresh crystal clear water filtered with new iconic technology, eliminating the use of chemicals like chlorine. The Jacuzzi Pool Bar, chill out on the bar stools which are immersed, an ideal place to have a sundowner in style or a great pool party. Attain spiritual revival by indulging in a yoga session at Mandala, meditation or a soothing massage. Hidden amongst the garden at the top end of the property, a great place to relax and rejuvenate. The Lantern Restaurant at Shanti Morada: Old World Charm in a Glorious New Avatar. Sublime, surreal 127

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and serene are the words that jump into your mind the second you cross the threshold of The Lantern Restaurant at Shanti Morada. The ornate dining venue set in the old house built in 1897, the Lantern, serves delicious mouthwatering food exclusively to in-house guests. The setting and décor immediately take you into a space frozen in a time lapse of over a hundred years. The over eight foot large carved wooden 3 dimensional inlay of “The Last Supper” will leave you spellbound. With large ancient chandeliers hanging from its high ceilings and its eclectic décor it surely leaves lasting memory. The lantern serves a mélange of various cuisines but the most special of them all is their authentic Tandoori food. Showcasing a live kitchen where you can watch the chefs create various kebabs and breads The Lantern is definitely a place to dine in. Shanti Morada has obviously been a labour of love for Sanjana and Rajat Verma and that’s why they attract a discerning clientele, the kind who appreciate the finer things in life. Shanti Morada provides the truly world famous traditional hospitality that India is famous for. Peace.

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If your heart beats to the sound of a different drummer…

Laguna Anjuna

aguna Anjunas above captioned description of Anjuna and their catch line phrase “a certain kind of style” are a good description of what to expect here. Built in a time when the first foreign visitors to post liberation Goa were the hippy flower children, the roads were untarred and red earthed, and when to make a telephone call one had to go to O’Coqueiro in Porvorim, Laguna Anjuna describes itself as a country house resort in Anjuna Goa with character and style. Laguna Anjuna was built in what was a field with a grove of many coconut and fruit trees, a farm and a large Portuguese style family country mansion. Formerly known as “Gadekaranchea baat”, (the place of the buffalo carts), Laguna Anjuna takes its present name from its huge free form swimming pool with lush tropical vegetation and bird life around. The walls are of thick laterite stone with carved lintels, and the roof is a continuous one of terracotta tiles on coconut wood rafters and battens, which dips, curves and swoops in graceful lines. With its white lime washed walls, stone and oxide hued floors, Venetian plastered bathroom walls, paved pathways 130

and courtyards, stone pillars and arches, and its trademark high ceiling brick domes, its been listed as one of the few hotels built in Goas unique Portuguese country house style. Guests are delighted with its rambling courtyards, and huge comfortable rooms, all in different shapes and each with its own peculiar features. Nature is all around. The interiors feature designer wrought iron furniture and lamps with a bias towards the Bauhaus era. With its graceful Thonnet dining chairs, comfortable Le Corbusier sofas, beautiful stained glass pieces, and other tastefully chosen bric a brac, the place speaks of relaxed style and easily graceful choices. Their disclaimer –“We would like to emphasize however, that we are built in country house style and living in the midst of a wild kind of natural lush tropical setting-insects, small animals and all. We realize that not everybody may be comfortable with that. Especially so during the monsoon, when Goa sees something like over 100 inches of rain. People who aspire to the modern ceramic kind of five star or “boutique hotel” may be better off making another choice.” 131

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And thereafter if you have any complaints on that score, you are invited to address them to “The Lighthouse keeper, Sinquerim”!!! It’s a great and comfortable starting point to explore and experience Anjuna, both the way rural Goa lives plus Anjuna’s “alternative” tourism. Picture a lush garden, a huge lagoon like swimming pool with trees around its edge, and a shaded stone paved courtyard with a 100 year old mango tree. That is where Laguna Anjunas old world stylish yet relaxed restaurant is set. That and a verandah which runs around three sides of an old Portuguese mansion which houses a twenties style absinthe bar and more tables indoors. The furniture is heavy yet stylish wrought iron from the Bauhaus era, with large round marble tables, and beautiful glass stained lamps, and a large stained glass. The menu is a mix of classic French recipes, a good selection of Goan dishes (it’s one of those few places in Goa where the staff is still completely Goan), a smattering of recipes from Japanese cuisine (Laguna Anjuna was one of the first places to serve sushi) and some Parsi dishes. The menu has been designed around classic time tested recipes from different cuisines, and does not attempt any fusion. Simple, good food.

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GO GOA! Heidi Fuller-love G O A’ s C o o l C u i s i n e Travel writer Heidi Fuller-love’s (www.heidifuller-love. com) regular column packed with insider’s tips on how to get the best out of your time in gorgeous Goa. A sapid blend of different dishes born out of the region’s fascinating blend of cultural influences, Goan cuisine is a magical culinary rainbow of food styles evolved over the centuries, with something to tempt every palate. From Arabian to Portuguese, French, to Konkan, you can find a wide array of different culinary styles whose ingredients will range from fiery spices, to soothing coconut milk, local grown vegetables, or brine fresh seafood. Here are my top tips for eateries where you can sample the best food Goa has to offer. Best masala dosas: Plantain Leaf What? This lively, popular south Indian vegetarian restaurant is a favourite with locals. The décor is simple but the south Indian food is some of the best you’ll find in Goa. Where? Beach Road, Naika Vaddo, Calangute. Insider’s tip? Order masala dosas crispy pancakes stuffed with curried vegetables and thalis whose ingredients include dal, roti, papad, pickles and chutneys. Best Goan food: Avanti What? With its tight-packed, check-cloth-covered tables, Michael and Ovita D’Souza’s Avanti is one of Goa’s bestknown addresses for home-style cooking. In this cosy, family-run eating place which has been in business for over 20 years, you’ll find some of Goa’s most iconic dishes, but be warned: this great value eatery is always packed with locals, so you’ll need to get there early to get a table. Where? At the heart of Avanti Fontainhas, Panjim’s heritage district, along one of its narrow back streets: Rua De Ourem, Panjim. 134

Insider’s tip? Order the hot and spicy, kokum-coloured red shark ambo tik curry, one the rich and satisfying vindaloos, and ground roast spice-flavoured xacuttis. Best for health: Bean Me Up What? One of Goa’s first health food restaurants, Bean Me Up is a delightful secret garden where you can enjoy salads and nourishing vegetarian food as you listen to canned or live music. When it’s time to digest your meal you can browse jackfruit jam and other delights on sale in the restaurant’s small boutique, or chill out in one the restaurant’s cushion-strewn hammocks. Where? 1639 Deul Vaddo. Insider’s tip? Order one of the organic Mediterranean salads, or try the homemade ravioli with a large glass of the restaurant’s freshly squeezed fruit juice. Best seafood: Souza Lobo What? This well love Goa restaurant is a simple, shackstyle eatery with plastic chairs and tables, and wonderful sea views, serving some of Goa’s most sumptuous seafood dishes. Where? Umtawado, Calangute Beach. Insider’s tip? Order prawn curry, fried fish, Goan sausages and spicy curried crab xacuti. Best home cooked: Mum’s Kitchen What? A cosy restaurant like someone’s front room, where you sit at tiled tables and eat Suzette Martin’s beautifully prepared local dishes, made using scrupulously researched local recipes. Where? Miramar, Panjim Insider’s tip? Order the ard mas pork bone curry, the richly marinated Goan sausages and the prawn hoonam spicy seafood dish. Best European: La Plage What? Surrounded by sand dunes, this chic eating shack, with its delightful al fresco seating area, serves some of Goa’s finest French food. Come here to hangout and drink your sunset cocktail, or enjoy live jazz performances most weekends. Where? Morjim, Mandrem. Insider’s tip? Sample the homemade liver pate - and don’t miss the restaurant’s sumptuous chocolate crepes. 135

Alegria Taj Exocita Alegria means fun and joy, and denotes the true spirit of Goa. A visit to Exotica is incomplete without a visit to Alegria, where one can succumb to the charms of old world architecture and the incredibly-fresh flavours of traditional Goan cuisine. You may be pleasantly surprised to find Master Chef Rego taking your order and preparing your favorite dishes.

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Miguel Arcanjo Taj Exocita Miguel Arcanjo recently voted the Best Mediterranean restaurant in Goa, it serves a variety of cuisines ranging from Lebanese , Italian, Moroccan, Spanish, and Provencal fare. This sea facing restaurant features a variety of Mediterranean cuisines, as well as a lively show kitchen and pizza oven. Lebanese mezze, hummus, falafel, tabboule, oven baked red snapper, honey glazed shrimps and wine leaves dolmas are amongst the house specialties.

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Li Bai Taj Exocita Named after a famous Chinese poet this restaurant, offers succulent flavours of the Orient with Sichuan, Canton and Hunan specialties

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Adega Cameons Taj Exocita One can unwind in the plush setting of this handsomely paneled lounge bar. A perfect atmosphere for sipping cognac and hors dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;oeuvres. Tea totelers do not fear entering this bar, especially during the day, an aromatic display of tea and coffee awaits you. Choose from a tea and coffee menu, as well as a specially crafted menu by Goan Master Chef Urbano Rego for Afternoon Tea.

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Coffee Cove C

offee Cove has been the brain child of Sammy and Nicole Williams for quite some time, but it didn’t come to fruition until August of 2013. Sammy (a native of Pune with some Goan roots) and Nicole (a native of California, USA) and their 4 children shifted to Goa 5 years ago in 2009 from Pune. When they moved to Porvorim, they realized that there were no nice air-conditioned, classy places to chill and hang out in the area. Their friends in Pune had already established a coffee chain called Coffee Jar 10 years before where they used to hang out. Their friend, Cini Baig encouraged them after shifting to Goa to consider opening a cafe. As they began to think about it, it seemed like almost an impossibility, but now months later, they are open and running! It was truly a family project with even the kids sanding and painting. Many, many friends volunteered countless hours to renovate the shop, donate time and resources and cheer them on! Coffee Cove serves only the finest pure coffee beans from South India. There is no chicory added into them like many other branded beans in India. The beans are grown, blended and roasted by their friend, Cini Baig from Pune. The desire is to serve fine quality, gourmet espressobased drinks, healthy, delicious home-baked goodies and fresh, delicious food in an air-conditioned, peaceful environment. At Coffee Cove you will only hear various types of instrumental music playing to maintain a quiet, peaceful atmosphere perfect for a quiet chat, meeting or reading a book. Coffee Cove also offers free wi-fi for it’s customers which is an extra added perk. The menu consists of several types of espresso-based hot and cold drinks such as the famous Caramel Macchiato, Tiramisu Mocha, or try out an ice-blended drink called a “frio” with various flavors. Some of the most popular baked items are the melt-in-your-mouth American brownies, cinnamon rolls and banana muffins. Nearly all of their baked goods are made with whole wheat. In the savories they offer fresh and healthy salads, soups, burgers, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas and grilled items, all made fresh when you walk in the door. They hope to satisfy every customer with customized drinks and food. Open MondaySaturday from 10 am-10 pm. 144

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Falafel crusted sea bream Sea Bream 4 large fillets of sea bream 140gr of falafel mix (recipe below) Dijon mustard 45gr butter 50ml corn oil Salt and pepper to taste Method: Coat the fillets of sea bream with dijon mustard followed by the falafel mix to coat the sea bream. Heat oil or butter in a large non stick pan, and turn the heat to low, lay the crust side on the pan, and let it cook on the very low heat for about 6 minutes. The side of the Falafel should be nice and crispy, turn it over and leave it on the pan for additional 3 minutes. Falafel mix Makes 1.3kg 1kg of soaked overnight chickpeas 45gr garlic 100gr white onion 100gr fresh coriander 30gr fresh parsley 20gr cumin powder 6gr cinnamon powder 10gr white pepper 10gr baking powder 25gr sesame seeds Mix all the ingredients together in a blender to form a chunky paste. Harisa 40gr red chilli 50gr fresh tomato, seeded 10gr garlic 15gr white onion 5ml lemon juice 5ml vinegar 10gr salt 20ml olive oil 5gr sugar 10gr tomato paste 146

Mix all together Tzatziki 4 large portions 180g yoghurt (preferably Greek) 1 cucumber 2 - 4 grated garlic cloves 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp lemon juice (or white wine vinegar) 2 tsp chopped or dried mint (or dill) 1/2 tsp salt Pepper to taste Method: Peel the cucumber, cut in half lengthways, deseed with the spoon and grate it. Leave it in the sieve to lose all excess water for an hour and mix with all other ingredients. Tztatziki usually taste better when made a day in advance. Couscous 250gr cous cous Chopped herbs (mint, coriander, parsley, dill) as much as you like 60ml olive oil Juice and zest of 1 lemon Chop the roasted red peppers and zucchini, add pomegranate seeds, raisins as much as you like Place the couscous in a shallow bowl, then pour 250ml of boiling water and cover with cling film for 5mins until the couscous has swelled up and absorbed all of the water. Ruffle with a fork to separate the grains, and add the pomegranate seeds, herbs and vegetables, add the lemon zest and juice. Boil 100gr asparagus tops Boil 100gr broccoli cut to small florets Place the couscous and the boiled vegetables on the plate the way you like it, crusted fish on top, harisa and tztatziki can be served separate. Careful with harisa as its very spicy.

with couscous, tzatziki, harisa & green vegetables

Recipe Chef Andrzej Andy Zyla Executive Sous Chef - DAMAC Hotels & Resorts Dubai

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Prawns in Coriander

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Ingredients: 6 Medium size Tiger Prawns (400 gms) Lemon Juice 1 table spoon Turmeric or Saffron 1 tea spoon Green Chilly Paste 1 tea spoon Finely Chopped Ginger and Garlic 1 table spoon Finely Chopped Onion 1 medium size Cashew Nut Paste 2 table spoon Fresh Thick Coconut Milk half cup Fresh Chopped Coriander 1 table spoon Salt to Season Olive oil to fry Method: Deshelled and devein the prawns. Keep the tail part and wash it well. Marinate it with salt, lemon juice and turmeric powder or saffron then keep it aside. In a bowl combine the marinated prawns with green chilli paste, chopped ginger, garlic onions, cashew nut paste mix it well and then keep it aside Place the frying pan on fire with olive oil and add the marinated prawns in a pan and fry it, then add all the remaining marinated sauce into the pan and keep stirring. Finally add the thick fresh coconut milk, chopped coriander and cook it until the gravy becomes thick, serve hot.

Master Chef Urbano De Rego Taj Holiday Village 149

Semolina Fried Fish Fingers

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Ingredients: Fillet of fish (Modso) or sea Bass or any similar large fish 400gms Turmeric Powder 1 tea spoon Green Chilly Powder 1 tea spoon Ginger and Garlic paste 1 table spoon Tamarind Pulp 1 table spoon Rice flour 100gms Raw Egg 1 No Semolina 200gms Salt to season Oil to deep fry Method: Fillet the fish, wash the fish fillets well and cut the fillet into finger size bits and keep aside. Marinate the fish with salt, tamarind pulp, turmeric powder, green chili paste, ginger garlic paste and mix it well. Add the rice flour and raw egg and mix it. Put the fish pieces on skewers and roll it in semolina. Frying: Put oil in a frying pan, when the oil is hot, place the fish skewers in the pan, and fry until it is golden brown. Side: SautĂŠ spinach SautĂŠ spinach and shred the spinach, tossed with chopped onion, corn kernels, roasted broken cashew nuts and grated coconut in the middle of the plate and on then serve it chilly tomato dip on the side.

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Pistachio and saffron Kulfi 2 liters milk 200g sugar 2g saffron 100g whole pistachio In a medium sauce pan add all the ingredients and bring to the boil over a medium heat. Once boiled turn down to a simmer and reduce by Âź. Remove from the heat and allow cooling. Once cool pour in to the desired mould and place in the freezer. Spiced Jalebi 400ml water 10g dry yeast 100g plain yoghurt 450g flour 25g oil 25g semolina 1 pinch nutmeg powder Oil for frying In a large bowl place the water, yeast, flour, yoghurt and nutmeg powder and mix well. Place in the fridge over night to rest. Add the oil and semolina, after removing from the fridge.

Pastry Chef Rusly Ahmed The Westin Mina Seyahi Hotel, Dubai 152

Indian

delight

Sugar syrup 500ml water 750ml sugar 1 tsp. each cloves, cinnamon stick and black pepper Juice of 1 lemon Place all ingredients in a medium sauce pan, bring to boil on high heat, remove, strain and allow to cool. To make the Jalebi: Warm the sugar syrup in a small sauce pan Place the Jalebi mix in to a piping bag with the finest nozzle available In a frying pan heat a little oil and pipe1 the mixture in to the oil in thin strips, fry until crispy. Once crisp place directly in to the warm sugar syrup Coconut Sponge 180g egg white 100g sugar 160g hazelnut powder 25g flour 65g icing sugar 20g desiccated coconut Pre heat oven to 200 degrees Celsius In a kitchen mixer whip the egg whites until soft peaks. Set the machine to low speed and add the sugar 1 Tbsp. at a time until fully combined. Slowly fold in the remaining dry ingredients (try to be a gentle as possible to keep maximum air in the meringue) Line a baking tray with grease proof paper and pour in the mixture Bake at 200 degrees Celsius for 10 minutes Semolina pudding 1 liter milk 150g sugar 100g semolina In a medium pan bring the milk and sugar up to the boil. Once boiling add the semolina and stir until thick. Remove from the heat and pour in to the desired mould

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A Book of poems appealing to the heart, specially a TRUE GOANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love for his country, and others, so you end suffused with joy and spirits lifted as if through a mental viagra. Marcos Gomes-CatĂŁo offers diverse poems, including GOA reminiscences, embellished with several old photos, 1860 onwards, to give a measure of historical relevance.

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Voices of Passion can be downloaded from amazon.com kindle books for ($3.99 through Paypal). The book can be read on iPad and similar devices by downloading the free kindle app.

On WORLD GOA DAY 20th August 2006 To GOA Our common home Home’s where you are born Home’s where you have grown Where the heart’s glow glimmers and grows. Home’s the warmth that bonds Even those that are not kin In a meld of mind and lore Home’s the smell of earth Watered by filial sweat, The flowerbed of fragrant roses Sprouting with love’s tender care. Home’s not a piece of paper Bandied as a passport. Home’s the flitting memory Of ‘feni’ and violins At the ‘ladainha’ by the wayside cross, The sounds of the merry band At the annual village ‘fest’ Ere the ‘sanna’, sorpotel, ‘mando’. Home’s yearning does not wilt Even if seemingly asleep In a benign foreign clime. Home’s the quiver in the voice, The knot in the heart When one comes back After a long stay out Try then never to demerit, Much less disdain The Home where you were born For it is the richest gift From the Good Lord you’ve won

Born at his maternal home in Candolim, the seat of the 1787 “Pinto Conspiracy”, Marcos Gomes-Catao led something of a wanderer’s life. Four childhood years in Tanganyika were followed by seven years in Mapuca, Goa and eight years in school and College at Belgaum. Marcos Gomes-Catao worked in the Human Health industry in Bombay, with spells in Delhi and Singapore. Transferred to Brazil, where he lived there for 27 years and now he currently resides in the U.S.A “PEDRINHAS na AREIA: poemas avulsos de saudade d’outrora” (Pebbles in the sand: random poems of yesteryears, nostalgia”. It features several poems on our country (GOA), published in Portuguese. This book of poems may be downloaded from Amazon.com

Dedicated to G O A our unique, unforgettable Motherland

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“WOODSTOCK” Unseen photographs from the most famous music festival of all time. Baron Wolman and Michael Lang Foreword by Carlos Santana 192 pages, 11-3/4 x 10 inches • US$49.95 + Shipping from the U.S. To order one or more autographed copies, contact the author at baron@baronwolman.com

"Woodstock showed the world how things could have been, and for this reason it's important that we never forget this experience, this place, this time, this dream that came true, if only for three days..." Baron Wolman’s stunning black and white photographs of Woodstock are published here for the first time. The majority of the images have never before been seen. The photos are accompanied by text featuring an interview with Wolman and Woodstock creator, Michael Lang, and a foreword by guitarist Carlos Santana. Wolman captured the experience and atmosphere of Woodstock like no other photographer. More interested in the crowd than the performers, his photographs are hugely evocative and offer an insight into this legendary event that is rarely seen. "I ended up spending most of my time out in the wild with the crowd because what was happening out there was just too interesting not to explore. "The thing to remember about the 60s, even near the end in ’69, was that everything was totally different, the behavior was new and unexpected. Plus, the 1960s were simply wildly photogenic in every way imaginable...the changes that were taking place in the heads of the people were visually manifested. I mean, how could you not take pictures?" Baron Wolman began his music photography career as the original, first photographer of the new Rolling Stone magazine in 1967. He went on to capture the 1960s pop rock explosion including Janis Joplin, the Who, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, the Grateful Dead and Bob Dylan, among many, many more. 159

Asmita Studio Goa, India.

Public Profile www.dattaram-gawade.artistwebsites.com 160

Contact: +91 90494 41177/dattagawade@gmail.com www.asmitastudio.com

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