WO’GOA something is always brewing…January 2015 Issue

‘ W GOA O

JANUARY 2015

something is always brewing

HEINZ BECK

Notable “Master” of Gastronomy

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ A Culinary Genius

PHILIP MONTEIRO

The Business of Bread

VICTOR HUGO GOMES Goa Chitra Museum

SOUTH AFRICAN WINERIES

The Gardens of Babylonstoren Oldenburg Vineyards

GRAND HYATT GOA Farmers’ Market

GOA & BEYOND Luxury Hotels & Resorts

www.wogoa.in

1

Exploring

GOA

o n e d e s t i n a t i o n™ infinite possibilities

2

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

izzy publishing

deMagneto

™

made to protect, built to last

R.S. Renewable Solutions Ltd. 3

A p lA c e t h At f e e l s l i ke i t wA s m Ad e f o r yo u

Because it was

here, barefoot luxury meets unpretentious style in a place that’s as unique as you. home to whale sharks, manta rays, dolphins and an incredible coral reef just steps from the beach, it’s been awarded “the Best water Villas in the world”, “the Best luxury resort in the maldives” and “Best spa resort in the maldives”. two spas, eight restaurants and four lounges round out the luxury experience.

Conrad Maldives Rangali Island For reservations contact MLEHI.maldives@conradhotels.com or visit www.ConradMaldives.com

4

DUTY DUTYFREE FREE PRODUCTS PRODUCTS & & BONDED BONDED STORES STORES

5, Vyzantiou, Spyrides 2064Nicosia, Nicosia, Cyprus 5, Vyzantiou, Spyrides Tower, Towers, 2064 Cyprus Tel:+357 +35722210828 222 108 28 I I +44 +44 745 745 228 Tel: 22868 680202 www.brandhouse.uk.com www.brandhouse.uk.com 5

6

The Whitehall Penthouse Terrace

London’s 21st Century Grand Hotel Corinthia London combines contemporary flair with traditional grandeur.

Situated in the cultural heart of the capital, the hotel features beautiful rooms, elegant restaurants and the most breathtaking spa in London, ESPA Life at Corinthia.

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON, WHITEHALL PLACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD, UK +44 (0) 20 7930 8181 | RESERVATIONS.LONDON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM /LONDON 7

8

9

The World at your door step

Travel – Includes air ticketing both International & Domestic, Visas, Travel Insurance.

Outbound – Holiday Packages outside India - Group as well as individual or customized tours Inbound – Hotels in India, Excursions, Customized tours & Air Charters.

Holidays Travel Services Hotel Bookings Trail Blazer Tours India Pvt Ltd 201-204, 2nd Floor, Gera's Imperium II, Patto Plaza, Panaji, Goa - 403001 - INDIA Telephone: (0832) 6456469 - 70/ 6456485 10

www.trailblazertours.com / https://www.facebook.com/tbigoa gsilveira@tbi.co.in / adsouza@tbi.co.in / jsaldanha@tbi.co.in / surajm@tbi.co.in / goa@tdi.co.in

B E Y O N D

S U S H I

A N D

S A S H I M I

Le MĂŠridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina Al Sufouh Road, Jumeirah Beach, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 399 3373 l +971 55 821 6062 www.watatsumi.ae 11

Editor Fabian deCastro Lifestyle Editor Doug Singer Editorial Consultant Teotonio R. de Souza Feature Editor Dielle D’souza Editorial Contributor Mario Bermeo Jr Photography Arnold Noronha Photography Consultant & Creative Design Studio FJMdesign Publisher

IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd.

METROPOLITAN R E P O R T

a connoisseur’s guide to the good life

WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in.

Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in WO’GOA™ New York Head of Operations - North America Doug Singer 404 East 66 Street, Suite 2E New York, NY 10065 E-mail: doug.singer@wogoa.in © IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WO’GOA™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. © 2014 WO’GOA™ All rights reserved.

www.metropolitanreport.com 12

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

Happy New Year! The team at WO’GOA has been busy celebrating all over the world with people from an array of different cultures - staying in their hotels, revitalizing at their spas, dining in their restaurants and most importantly, laughing with their people. All of this with the distinct goal of bringing you what we believe to be a resource for the evolution of fine living. We hope we have hit the mark.

We expect great things in 2015 and look forward to sharing all of them with you. Our first issue will stay the course and globe trot to locations such as Macau, Singapore, Hawaii, South Africa, London, Bora Bora and of course, Goa… and that’s just the beginning. From top chefs, to the finest accommodations, to wellness retreats and wineries that will make you re-plan your travel itinerary, we are committed to delivering to you, the best of the best, each and every month.

So put those New Year’s resolutions on hold until you get through the next couple of hundred pages, as you may find that your plans may need a tweak or two. We are confident that this, our second year, will lay the groundwork for a tremendous amount of growth and hopefully, with your input, the continued evolution of our goal to deliver a world-class magazine - one of substance.

So with an eye to the future, together, let’s make it a year to remember.

Doug Singer Lifestyle Editor

13

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

CONTENTS

14

20

Goa Tourism... Planning Big

26

Notable “Master” of Gastronomy

42

Culinary Genius

58

Goa Chitra Museum

66

The Business of Bread

78

Chef Jacky Oberti

84

Chef Gerard Prat Escola

92

Chef Willibald Reinbacher

98

Chef Daniel Chavez

108

The Gardens of Babylonstoren

114

Farmers’ Market

122

South Africa’s Scary Corner

128

Luxury Hotels, Resorts & Spas

152

The World on A Plate

154

Baba au Rhum

Whole wheat ‘Poie’ is a staple in the diet of Goans and those with diabetes Photo Arnold Noronha 15

16

Aquatica Resort & Spa Ashvem, Mandrem, Goa. M ~ +919923484977 www.aquaticagoa.in, www.integralholdings.in

Follow us on

Aquatica-Goa (Rooms, Restaurant, Bar, Yoga and Spa)

17

Good taste isn’t expensive

S P A C E S

F O R

B E A U T I F U L

L I V I N G

conceptplus INTERIOR DESIGN

18

Suite 214, Hamsa (A) Office Tower, Za’beel Road Karama, Dubai, United Arab Emirates P.O.Box 300450, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel.: +971 4 3705269 I Fax: +971 4 2947442 E-mail : info@conceptplusstyle.com I osama@conceptplusstyle.com www.conceptplusstyle.com

Corporate Office: A-1, Dukle Heaven, Panjim, Goa. Contact: +91 8326487888 | +91 860565887 | +91 7875120669 Factory: Plot No. S-133, Phase 1/1-B, Verna, Goa. Contact: +91 8378987330 | +91 8605658886 | +91 9850973149 info@designerhomesindia.com | www.designerhomesindia.com

19

49

Ameya Abhyankar Director of Goa Tourism 20

Goa Tourism... Planning Big

By Dielle D’Souza Photo Arnold Norohna

Director of Tourism Ameya Abhyankar is positive about the future of the industry, which has recently seen hard times with a drop in visitors With reports suggesting that Goa could possibly be seeing its worst tourist season yet, fingers have pointed to a host of reasons that possibly caused the hit. From the drop in the Russian rouble to exorbitant prices, garbage and stray dogs, Goa has seen it all this year.

The Department of Tourism however remains optimistic about the coming year, insisting that a slew of measures to attract high-end tourists will remedy the recent fall in numbers.

Goa Tourism has major plans in the pipeline, from a golf course to local circuits catering to a variety of tastes.

Director of Tourism Ameya Abhyankar tells WO’GOA about the projects for the coming year and what the industry can expect.

WO’GOA: What is your master plan for Goa ‘sometimes’) branding connects with tourists who are unfamiliar with the language? tourism?

Ameya Abhyankar: We started our branding exercise with Chlorophyll Brand and Communications about 18 months ago. We have now brought in KPMG to draw up a master plan with a 25-30 year perspective that will position Goa as a mediumto high-end tourist destination with a bouquet of products.

This plan is spread over 10 months of planning and five years of implementation, and will cover everything from infrastructure to hotel capacities and tourism products. Such perspective planning spanning 25-30 years has never been done before.

It will give us a better idea on how to position ourselves and our requirements.

We will consult various stakeholders in the planning, which will ultimately be successful only if they participate in it wholeheartedly. We will focus on globally accepted standards and skill development since tourism is a service industry.

WO’GOA: How do you feel the ‘kenna’ (meaning

Ameya Abhyankar: Goa is a land of contrasts. For such a small state, the diversity is mind-boggling.

Eco-tourism, adventure sports, wildlife sanctuaries, heritage, spiritual tourism, beaches, culinary tourism, spice plantations, etc, are encapsulated in a small destination, which is a wonder.

The ‘kenna’ campaign captures the fact that you can have different experiences in the same place in a given time.

WO’GOA: How has this campaign helped draw tourists for this season?

Ameya Abhyankar: All advertising and promotion is based on our branding. Our logo and branding exercises have been well received at many of the travel shows, travel marts, road shows, and by industry and government stakeholders around the world that we interact with.

People might not understand the meaning of the word ‘kenna’, but this creates mystery and intrigue.

21

It comes across well and strikes the right chord tourism has a huge potential, for which we need with people. Goa is not just a destination, but an to create proper circuits with necessary peripherals experience. like guides, language training, etc.

At 40 per cent, the recall value in Goa is much higher than other places in India. For the tourism industry, room nights are important, and Goa is probably the leading state in terms of foreign tourist arrivals. Domestic tourists spend an average of 5-7 days here, while inbound foreign tourists stay for about 12-15 days. In other places, their figures are negligible. So I think the campaign has definitely had an impact and we will intensify it in due time.

WO’GOA: Has this tourist season been the worst yet for Goa? Ameya Abhyankar: Foreign arrivals have definitely been affected by the Russian crisis, so packages have increased in terms of cost for them. But I don’t think we should be too upset because in the last 15-20 days, we have had nearly 2,000 visas on arrival with the new facility which we are going to aggressively market along with a bouquet of options.

I am sure we will see at least a 10-fold increase in our visas on arrival. While we have a significant number from Russia and Ukraine, we are also receiving visitors from the US which is a new trend that we will cash in on. We are looking to diversify our tourist portfolio in terms of inbound arrivals especially from foreign countries so the sector does not become overly dependent on a single country. We recently had a familiarisation trip for Central Asia that contributed to some arrivals from those countries. Foreign tourists will go where it is convenient for them, and the visa on arrival facility makes it easier for them to apply. We must cash in on this.

Once the cruise terminal is completed in Mormugao, we will become a major destination as each vessel offloads about 2,000 to 4,000 passengers. This year we have around 20 vessels which will dock in Goa. These are good signs.

WO’GOA: What about luxury tourism?

Ameya Abhyankar: We are launching a number of products to position Goa as a luxury tourism destination. There is already a proposal for an 18hole golf course in Tiracol; we are also looking at hot air ballooning, sea planes, Segway tours, amphibious vehicles, a hop-on hop-off bus, motorised paragliding, marinas with yachts, etc.

Currently, seven GTDC properties which will cater to high-end tourists are under redevelopment.

There will be a property in Farmagudi targeting MICE (meetings, incentives, conferencing and exhibitions), a marina and five- or seven-star hotel in Brittona, an oceanarium and five-star hotel in Miramar, luxury eco-tourism in Mayem Lake, high-end hotel in Vagator, etc. We will populate these places with high-end tourism properties and activities.

WO’GOA: Many properties have run into trouble with regard to the environment, particularly in Morjim with constructions close to Olive Ridley nesting sites. Please comment.

Ameya Abhyankar: All developmental activities are governed by statutory frameworks, and the tourism department undertakes activities only when approvals are in place.

Although these establishments may be frequented Following the Exposition of the relics of St Francis by tourists, they are not registered with us. I would Xavier which was attended by 4-4.5 million people not like to comment on noise and light pollution as in two months, we feel that spiritual or pilgrimage this is not under my jurisdiction.

22

Our first women's taxi service.

For, of and by the women of Goa. Introducing safe, air-conditioned taxis for women and families travelling in Goa. They are driven by women trained in self-defense and first aid. Your travel hostess can even take you to Goa's famous attractions! For bookings, call 0832 2437 437. www.goa-tourism.com

@TourismGoa

oďŹƒcialgoatourism 23

Fabian deCastro, WO’GOA’s Editor shows Ameya Abhyankar, Director of GTDC the WO’GOA Magazine online

WO’GOA: Goa has not done much to improve the beach experience with stray dogs, rubbish and sanitation issues still evident. How do you plan to change things?

Ameya Abhyankar: We have put in a system of cleaning the beaches, which has taken off. For drift from the sea, we can do nothing but clean it. For garbage generated by humans, discipline is necessary and although there is a law, agencies need to enforce it. People who litter should be fined.

Shacks must now compulsorily segregate garbage and we have received good reports from garbage collectors. We are also trying to explore how to make shacks eco-friendly. The creation of pay-per-use public conveniences – toilets, urinals and changing rooms – on public-private partnership mode has been tendered out for 31 beaches with placement done scientifically according to carrying capacity.

WO’GOA: How is the department planning to maintain standards, and avoid inflated rates and poor quality?

Ameya Abhyankar: A new act focusing on standards will probably be tabled in the budget or monsoon session. Once this is done, these issues will be sorted out.

WO’GOA: Tell us more about your marketing and advertising strategies after international trade shows.

24

Ameya Abhyankar: Internet usage per capita in European countries is very high. Our strategies will focus largely on internet-based media of communication – email marketing and social media, which will be the main drivers of advertising after trade shows.

We will do this very scientifically so that it translates into arrivals. The yard stick to measure if every rupee has been spent well, is whether or not it has resulted in arrivals. I am looking at media that have maximum eyeballs, so I would rather advertise on the Tube or the bus than a magazine, or advertise in places frequented by high-end tourists. A good tourist is someone who is responsible and spends money when s/he comes and this is the kind we want. We also want to encourage family tourism so that people have a holistic experience of the destination.

WO’GOA: Since you are looking at social media, would you not say that the 11-minute promotion video for Goa is rather long for such a medium?

with IRCTC (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation) which includes a package for a person buying a ticket with a hotel or bar deal.

We want to floor it by promoting a kind of tourism where people spend money and focus on qualitative aspects. It must also be inclusive in which all stakeholders benefit.

WO’GOA: How are you collaborating with other government departments?

Ameya Abhyankar: Travellers from long-haul destinations want to see at least two or three places when they visit. So, it is very important that we develop synergies with local tourism boards. For example, Ajanta-Elora in Maharashtra is prominent on the Buddhist circuit, and Mumbai also ranks high on the tourist list; there is Hampi in Karnataka, and Ayurveda and the backwaters in Kerala.

Picking on the relative strengths of each of these, we are in talks with Karnataka Tourism, and will soon speak to Maharashtra and Kerala tourism boards to work out local circuits keeping the 30day visa on arrival facility that we offer. In this way, long-haul tourists can spend a week or 10 days in Goa and then visit other places on the local circuit so they get a flavour of a substantial part of India before flying out.

Ameya Abhyankar: I don’t think so. Videos must be engaging. For Goa and the kind of diversity that exists here, I would say 11 minutes is injustice.

There are flea markets, bird-watching, island trips, treks in the Western Ghats, ancient temples, heritage homes, dolphin trips, scuba diving, cooking classes, spice plantations; the number of WO’GOA: Tour operators in Goa are promoting activities is enormous. other states. Why do you think this is so and how Goa has so many contrasts in itself and allows do you plan to counter this? you to experiment with different sides of your own Ameya Abhyankar: As long as it does not affect personality. That’s the contrast we want to highlight our bottom line, I do not see this as a threat in and the experience we want to create. any way. The diversity of experiences will result in WO’GOA: What kind of tourists are you targeting? good return on investment for everyone. Travellers who had a good experience will tell their friends to Ameya Abhyankar: We are creating a bouquet come to India instead of visiting other countries. It of products for high-end tourists, but are also will only be a threat if tourists go directly to other looking for middle-end travellers. We have a tie-up places, which is not happening.

W O‘GOA

25

Heinz Beck

26

27

HEINZ BECK

Smoked scallop tartare and red beet shell Photo Janez Puksic 28

WO’GOA FEATURE

einz Beck is widely known as one of the most notable “Masters” of gastronomy. His unique interpretation of the “Modern” kitchen goes beyond his unique culinary talent, including the utmost attention toward the selection of ingredients and their transformation into highly innovative flavors.

H

Beyond an excellent career as a highly decorated Chef, Heinz Beck has been heralded as a leader in Italian and Mediterranean culinary tradition. Among numerous awards, the Chef has been recognized by “Michelin”, “Bibenda”, “Gambero Rosso” and “L’Espresso” (just to name a few).

His profound understanding of the culinary culture is revealed in several of his texts, which address more than culinary practices.

Among one of the best sellers in the past year is Beck’s “L’Ingrediente Segreto” (The Secret Ingredient). His other noteworthy works include “L’Arte e Scienza del Servizio” (The Art and Science of Service), “Beck”, “Vegetariano” (Vegetarian), “Pasta” and the ingenious “Finger Food”.

Furthermore, Beck has tackled nutrition and healthy culinary practices in “Ipertensione e Alimentazione” (Hypertension and Nutrition).

As an author of several noteworthy texts, today Beck consuls several businesses, offering the same attention to details that his Guests receive at “La Pergola” in Rome, “Apsleys – a Heinz Beck Restaurant” in London, or at “Café Les Paillotes” of Pescara. Each of these restaurants is a recipient of Michelin Stars, and a testament to the genius of Heinz Beck. Moreover, Beck was integral in the development of the De Cecco line of “Sughi” (Sauces), which is conceived, designed and developed in richness of Mediterranean flavors.

Social by Heinz Beck is the latest culinary opening from the master chef, fusing years of experience into a new fine-casual dining concept, at one of the world’s most iconic locations, the luxurious Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah.

29

HEINZ BECK

Photo Massimo Siragusa 30

WO’GOA FEATURE

Heinz Beck is truly a polyhedric genius of our time, in which different attitudes evolve into different arts, the true size of modern gastronomy...

WO’GOA: Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to became one of the notable “Masters” of gastronomy in the world and a true pioneer of modern gastronomy!

Heinz Beck: Since the beginning of my career, I have always been interested in food effects on the body and the right relationship between food and health. A dish can be tasty as well as light and well balanced. I felt in love with Italian cuisine soon as I came to Rome: Italian cuisine is one of the greatest in the world and it offers such a variety of excellent raw materials that you cannot exempt from experiencing with them in order to reconcile health and taste.

WO’GOA: Taking you back to 1991, the opportunity to join the legendary chef Heinz Winkler, how did that experience help to form who you are as a chef today?

Heinz Beck: My experience with Heinz Winkler has been so formative that I still consider him as my teacher as well as a friend to talk about my dishes with. I had been his Sous Chef for 5 years and he was giving me the opportunity to travel and meet different reality out of Germany.

31

HEINZ BECK

Water garden…

Photo Janez Puksic

Highly decorated Chef, Heinz Beck has been heralded as a leader in Italian and Mediterranean culinary tradition. His profound understanding of the culinary culture and unique interpretation of the “Modern” kitchen goes beyond his undisputed culinary talent and includes the utmost attention toward the selection of ingredients and their transformation into highly innovative flavors...

32

WO’GOA FEATURE

Vertical garden Photo Janez Puksic 33

HEINZ BECK

WO’GOA: Take us through your journey to becoming a chef and what inspired you to pursue this career?

Heinz Beck: As I often say, at first my desire was to be a painter, for the love I have for art, but my family opposed: so I decided to dedicate myself to a profession that could allow me to express my creativity.

WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen?

Heinz Beck: Nature itself is a great source of influence. The seasonality of raw materials guides my choices in creating different menus.

WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why?

Heinz Beck: I always find hard to answer this question because it would be like asking a mother which is her favorite son. I am fond of all the dishes that I create, because there is a story behind each of them and every dish is the result of studies, test and constant development.

WO’GOA: Your culinary creations which are based on a unique interpretation of the Modern kitchen that goes beyond your undisputed culinary talent, the utmost attention toward ingredient selection and their transformation into highly innovative flavors, how do you bring this balance on the plate?

Heinz Beck: Balance is Mediterranean cuisine itself.

34

WO’GOA FEATURE

Amberjack marinated in white Balsamic vinegar with pomegranate snow Photo Janez Puksic 35

HEINZ BECK

Black cod with celery sauce and curry crust Photo Janez Puksic 36

WO’GOA FEATURE

WO’GOA: Is there a process you go through to create a new dish?

Heinz Beck: The basis of my idea of the kitchen is curiosity. For my recipes, I draw inspiration from everything surrounds me and emotions that gives me what I observe.

WO’GOA: Your profound understanding of the culinary culture is revealed in several of your books, ‘PASTA by Heinz Beck’ your book – your concepts of lightness and delicacy, as you go beyond the classic tenets of Italian cooking and the extraordinary ability to enclose a ‘universe’ on a plate, what was the inspiration behind this while writing your book?

Heinz Beck: I have always been fascinated by pasta, a complete food and basis of Mediterranean diet. It provides complex carbohydrates, energy to slower release, low glycemic index, good source of protein and, finally, low in fat.

Apart from its nutrional aspects, pasta makes room for creativity: for this reason after my first book, “Heinz Beck”, I decided pasta would have been the perfect matter to write a book about.

WO’GOA: What is Cookery to Heinz Beck?

Heinz Beck: Cookery, for me, is synonymous with evolution.

Just think about how different types of cookery are varied over the time, reaching ever more complex forms.

Cookery techniques encourage my creativity and allow me to create well balanced dishes without sacrificing taste.

37

HEINZ BECK

WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients?

Heinz Beck: Actually I’m very inspired by yuzu, a citrus fruit native of East Asia: I like its tarty flavor, close to that of grapefruit.

I recently discovered it during my frequent visits to Japan for planning and opening of my Restaurants “Heinz Beck” and “Sensi by Heinz Beck”.

Regarding selection, I personally meet my suppliers and my preference is first for local produce.

When possible, I prefer to buy locally; where is not possible, especially out of Italy, I use imported products. I’m sad as I know it is not environmentally friendly, but I have to put my Guests’ satisfaction first.

WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

Heinz Beck: Vegetables and fruits

Celeriac cylinders with venus clams and salicornia Photo Janez Puksic 38

WO’GOA FEATURE

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why?

Heinz Beck: They are both equally important. Creativity is a natural predisposition while technique is the result of studies. It is the harmony of the two that create a great dish.

WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food?

Heinz Beck: Chocolate WO’GOA: Take us through the moments when you received the International Prize of the Roman University “La Sapienza”, where the first time in 30 years that this prize was conferred to a chef.

Heinz Beck: Many years passed since that day. I can still remember the excitement, the joy and surprise for this award as it came really unexpected.

39

HEINZ BECK

Lamb cube on tomato sauce, salty ricotta and basil Photo Janez Puksic 40

WO’COURIOUS

WO’GOA: Heinz Beck and Restaurants by Heinz Beck have received about every honor imaginable. What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career?

Heinz Beck: My motivation comes from seeing my Guests’ return to my Restaurants and seeing my pupils grow.

WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today?

Heinz Beck: Every young Chef feels the passion flowing through the veins: however, to ensure that this can be transformed into a profession, it must be accompanied by a deep and constant study of raw materials, traditions and techniques, by tenacity and the determination to grow professionally.

It is a profession that, undoubtedly, requires a lot of sacrifice. But that sacrifice is paid off by as many satisfactions.

W O‘GOA

41

42

WO’COURIOUS

Andoni Luis Aduriz a culinary genius

Before becoming a household culinary name, Andoni Luis Aduriz cooked with nearly all the Spanish greats - Ramón Roteta, Hilario Arbelaitz, Jean Louis Neichel, Juan Mari Arzak, Fermín Arrambide, and Pedro Subijana.

In1993, he joined the team at El Bulli under Ferran Adrià and in 1996, was the chef under Martín Berasategui. Since 1998 Adoni started working his own at Mugaritz and hasn’t stopped since... WO’GOA catches up with this genius!

WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how you found your way into the culinary field to become one of the most sought-after chefs!

Andoni Luis Aduriz: I really am not a vocational cook. Being the youngest child of the family, my mother tried to protect me. When she realized that while I was not a good student and did not have a definite vocation, she thought the best option for me not to pass hunger was to get me into a kitchen. So she enrolled me in a cooking school in San Sebastian where I studied for five years. At the age of 16 different gastronomy magazines began to go through my hands, and looking at these I noticed that these chefs spoke through their dishes in the manner that they saw the world.

This awoke my hunger to know and I wondered about restaurants as a whole, in the way that I knew I needed to reach out to some of the best restaurants in Spain so that their doors may open for me.

WO’GOA: Tell us about your journey to becoming a chef and what inspired you to pursue this career?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: My first practice came in a pizzeria. I also became a small a pastry chef, and later I found myself going through prestigious restaurants such as Ramon Roteta, Soule, Neichel, Arzak, Akelarre, El Bulli and Les Pirinees Arranbide Fermin. Whenever I went to work at a new place they told me “Andoni, these people do not know you, therefore they don’t have an opinion of you. If you are going to work it’s so that you better your image, better it than what you have now.” While at El Bulli, Martin Bersategui contacted me through his chef to bear with him as head of the kitchen. After one year, we set up a partnership that lasted ten years and that allowed us to open Mugaritz WO’GOA: How did Ferran Adriá and El Bulli inspire you? Tell us about this experience and did this experience have a significant impact on his career as a chef today?

43

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

Andoni Luis Aduriz: I was fortunate to get to El Bulli restaurant when he was not well known in 1993 after winning a cooking competition for young chefs. The original prize was a week at the Arzak restaurant, but as I at that time was already working there, I asked to change the prize for a full season at El Bulli. I worked until I was exhausted, but Ferran was a man who had a clear vision that creativity, rigor and consistency were the way to do something transcendent. El Bulli was the first restaurant in the world to have a team dedicated to creativity and I was lucky to be part of that working group. Ferran taught me to think big in creativity and be rigorous. Without their training, Mugaritz would not be today one of the best restaurants in the world.

WO’GOA: How would you describe the cuisine at Mugariz?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: It is a cuisine that should be approached from different points of view. From the kitchen looking for excellence, I understood the search for the best product; for this reason there is no printed menu and we serve dishes based on the amount of exceptional ingredients we acquire. It is also a deeply creative cuisine; we invest annually in preparing the proposal of new dishes. The third pillar focuses on how to do things; with a mixture vascularized between craft and systematization.

The customer receives a search exercise, fun and focused on values such as unpredictability, experimentation; subject in contention, harmony and synthesis. Eating at Mugaritz is a trip through the senses and the experience of many years.

WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: In beginning our influences were very marked by the passage of restaurants we had worked at and those with a suggestive style for us. Over the years we have sought out our own path. Today’s inspiration comes from within, from the questions and thoughts that we propose each and every day.

44

WO’COURIOUS

Lock of Hair seaweed smeared with tapenade PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

45

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

Lamb Bolognese Macaroni.

PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

WO’GOA: If you weren’t a chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: It is a difficult question to answer. I sincerely believe that all people have latent talents and what help develop this talent is the context. I’m sure I would have exposed my attitudes and skills in many fields if it had led to the ecosystem. This is very present in Mugaritz, where we seek to germinate auto demand, the creative look, critical thinking, solidarity and perseverance.

WO’GOA: You take readers on a journey with your book ‘A Natural Science of Cooking.’ You take an intelligent and inspired approach to creating new dishes and explain the creative development and innovations behind your exceptional food. What was the inspiration behind this while writing your book?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: For years we observed as many diners and culinary professionals would come to Mugaritz and see only a small part of the attributes that describe; it’s easy to idealize, to perceive the success and believe that a restaurant like Mugaritz is a space formed by extraordinary and talented people. In this book, besides showing the way we work and our cuisine, we wanted to show that behind the success there were unbreakable ordinary people that by the fact of working together as a team, had 46

WO’COURIOUS

achieved something special that we wanted. That was the original intention - to inspire, mobilize and excite our example.

WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: Every year we develop an average of 75 new dishes. Of these, there are always five or six we consider exceptional for one reason or another and it is very difficult to select one of these formulas over others. I would say that turbot with citrus vinaigrette, foie gras with sea lettuce, edible stones, flakes of ice and 20 more dishes are our creative heritage.

WO’GOA: Your culinary creations are based on simplicity, intense satisfying flavor and bringing your own personal food culture and heritage. How do you bring about this balance on a plate?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: We have been working nearly ten year with neuroscientists, and today we know that in a dish, one diner recalls, another imagines, another views and some are moved. The senses provide the information but the culture and experience decrypts it.

That is why we have banished the term “rich” from our vocabulary.

Whenever we approach the period of creativity we are not thinking of doing “good things,” but meaningful things.” If they like that or not is completely another story.

47

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

WO’GOA: Could you share the process you go through to create a new dish?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: One of the highlights of this year is presented with the title of “decadentia “ and as the name suggests, was based on the idea of making a dish inspired by decay. A few years ago, while observing an art book, I read a story that caught my attention. A review of the situation in Venice in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, which spoke of power, opulence and wealth that led them to cultivate the most refined arts, but also the most extreme extravagance. Then I read a story that was narrated as wealth was such that the most powerful saw gold as something trivial and would ask silverware be made of sugar while this was scarce and expensive. This argument seemed very strong because it drew a border between the decline, melancholy and love of beauty and life. So we worked for over a year to develop a holder of sugar, which serve in a case as if it were a jewel, accompanying a smoked eel mousse covered in flower petals. It’s a simple preparation that hides many readings.

48

WO’COURIOUS

Chippings of puffed lamb, caramel coat.

PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

49

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: We work with seasonal ingredients and usually with local suppliers.

However, it is true that every year, for one reason or another, we work on some ingredients more than on others and all its possibilities are explored. Recent years have experienced a lot with enzymes and micro-organisms. We have provided new textures and flavors with a degree of very interesting complexity. We love working with seafood and can boast of having one of the best fish in the world. The vegetables we also love and every year we investigate new possibilities.

After nearly 17 years of experience, we can claim to have woven a network of what we call “singular suppliers.” We seek only quality ingredients with eyes and history, beyond convenience or price. It is for this reason there is no printed menu at Mugaritz, because working with quality is a priority, we might not have secured the amount needed to meet two services for 50 people. Sometimes we trace amounts but prefer to with 40 recipes per service made with the best from the market, instead of preparing a menu with inferior ingredients.

50

WO’COURIOUS

PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría 51

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: What I like most is diversity and that is why we enjoy seeing what is reflected in markets and kitchens.

Spring is a splendor of fruits and vegetables; summer brings a blue fish market. Fall comes with mushrooms and game, the scents of the forest; and winter provides us with spectacular seafood and vegetables from the Rivera de Navarra anthologies.

WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: There are processes and techniques harder than others but with perseverance and discipline one should not fail. In the past it cost us almost five years to develop a shell of edible egg. We had to invent the technique and even resorted to a sculptor who taught us to work with silicone molds. But finally, we managed to work it out.

WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: In Mugaritz we have special equipment and even technologies that almost no restaurant in the world has.

We also have been participating for ten years with the Azti - Tecnalia technological center, where we have a team of chefs and technologists who deal with common projects, as well as a laboratory kitchen.

As a result , we have access to both the pilot food technologies. However, we also like to work with a grill over hot coals. The transcendent is what is displayed. The result whether good or not, is not so much how or in what way it was developed, but that it is healthy and sustainable.

52

The cow and the grass PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

WO’COURIOUS

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: The world moves through the critical awareness and curiosity and desires of human beings.

Thanks to the inconsistency of our species, and the desire to know and aim higher, we have set foot on the moon and get to fly. I believe that creativity is the germ of many things, including new techniques. Nevertheless, as explained, for me the important thing is not how to do something, but to why something is done and treasure its qualities. I’m more interested in finding the answer through a technique or technology.

WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: I do not sin while I eat ... for what I eat gets me closer to paradise.

WO’GOA: What does Andoni Luis Aduriz do when he needs a break?

How do you spend your time off?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: Sometimes I try to find areas of privacy, where I can be by myself. But I recognize that a reunion with friends who I have not seen in a while, and accompanied by a good chat, this recharges my energy. Playing with my son is also a time of happiness and fulfillment.

WO’GOA: You and Mugaritz have received about every honor imaginable.

What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: Simply stated, we have great things to learn and discover, 53

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

Mocha in its lightest version PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

Iced rye cream with aged toffee PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría 54

WO’COURIOUS

The chocolate ceremony PHOTO José Luis López de Zubiría

sweet creations play with aroma, texture and flavour while others are designed to be provocative, tell a story or evoke an emotion...

55

ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ

but above all, namely that through our work, we can inspire many people and, together, we can make this world a better place for all. Isn’t it a great goal to aspire to change the world?

WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: The kitchen is a profession that is not always easy, but through the food you can give others the best of yourself. Beyond nourish, nurture others with culture and affections. If you like this profession, be ambitious without forgetting consistency - this is the ladder that you can bring your dreams.

WO’GOA: What is next for Andoni Luis Aduriz?

Andoni Luis Aduriz: Many things, such as consolidating one of the most exciting projects we’ve ever faced, called Healthouse (healthousenaturhouse.com) which is a project that combines haute cuisine and health.

We will also continue to work with the teams of Le Domaine (ledomaine.es ) and continue to grow in quality after receiving their first Michelin star. Over the coming months we will write one or two new books and will also present a documentary directed by Pep Gatell, Creativity La Fura Dels Baus. We will be initiating various research projects including one on neuroscience. Once again we will be a part of the second edition of the accelerator DigEatAll (digeatall.com) of which we are part, and continue to participate in social innovation projects as The Candy Project (www.thecandyproyect.org), Dialogues kitchen (www.dialogosdecocina.com), Bullipedia (www.bullipedia.com) and Onfan (www.onfan.com) ... much to do if we want to change the world.

56

W O‘GOA

WO’COURIOUS

57

58

WO’GOA

It is quiet down the back roads of Benaulim and the museum is inconspicuous from the outside. Yet indoors, it comes alive and each item on display holds its own mine of stories to tell – narratives that have passed down through the ages, the embers of a vibrant culture still alive.

“We are destroying the story of Goa” Through his collection of artifacts, conservationist Victor Hugo Gomes tells a story of the Goa that is slipping through our hands.

By Dielle D’Souza Photo Arnold Norohna

These are embers reflective of an undying passion by a single man, whose journey began through rapt narratives by a grandmother who could not see. Blind at age 17, she told stories to her grandchildren – one of whom was named Victor Hugo Gomes – of a beautiful place where nature and humanity were one, life was simple and philosophies equally so.

Gomes’ - is a search for the Goa is his grandmother knew. “I could not see all the stories that were told to me.

They had disappeared. I literally saw Goa jump – not grow – from the fishing net to the internet,” he recalled.

It left a bitterness in his heart so profound that he left Goa for good the day he answered his final exams in Art College.

But this was not to be. He had a deeper calling that is to continue until the day he can. It happened in Lucknow, where he was one of seven artists to receive the national award. “I didn’t know the language, everything was different. All that kept running through my mind was my grandmother’s stories. She often said, ‘Danter boslear oyeo susta’ (when you sit at the grinder, you start thinking of old stories)’,” he said.

Having studied restoration and conservation at the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), he returned home to set up the Museum of Christian Art in Old Goa. As the curator, it was his first official chance to save legacies of Goa that were increasingly being discarded as valueless. “But I was shocked; priests were selling objects from churches, which still happens today.

I’ve seen pieces of crucifixes used as window stoppers!”

Gomes remarked.

A section of the Goa Chitra museum now stands a grim testimony to the sale of Goan Christian art and

59

VICTOR HUGO GOMES

culture. Each of the pieces in that section has been sourced from antique dealers, not directly from churches. On resigning from the Museum of Christian Art, he began his journey full scale, living and documenting the communities across Goa. Gomes explained, “I began recording oral history and traditions. Many of the original names and uses of instruments had been lost. So I translated every dictionary available from 1887 to the present, word by word – Portuguese to Konkani, Konkani to Portuguese, Marathi to Konkani, and English to Konkani, whatever was related to our language.” He now has a glossary of thousands of Konkani words that are not in use any more.

This is a continuous process, and his grouse with the educational system is that they do not take oral history and traditions seriously, causing mistakes committed decades ago to continue being cited. He does not read or encourage his interns to do so; the work of the museums is all based on first-hand experiences that they have recorded.

Over the past 25 years, since he began his journey of restoring the traditions of Goa, he has collected nearly 40,000 objects, with only 10 per cent of this currently on display. Gomes believes he has material for seven museums and has already begun working on one documenting the medical history of Goa between the 1920s and 1940s, and another on the costume and jewellery of the state’s Gowda community.

Both the Goa Chitra and Goa Chakra museums, housed in the eco-friendly and sustainable farm in Benaulim, are not one’s typical institutions of conservation. There are no yawning spaces between displays, no cemetery-like silences, no sombre descriptive plaques. They are alive with living, breathing objects, most of which would not be out of place if uprooted and used as intended.

The Goa Chakra museum focuses on wheels – 60

WO’GOA

modes of transportation, pulleys, clocks, even a portable lamp stand and associated material – from across India. Most arrived in dilapidated condition, requiring careful handling and painstaking restoration to bring them to the shining conditions they are now in.

There is a gypsy carriage, a cart for schoolchildren, one drawn by Rajasthan’s black bucks, spinning wheels, palanquins both open and enclosed, camel saddles, wooden children’s toys and a clock with a time-keeping card puncher. The oldest in the Chakra museum is a bullock cart with wooden wheels, chanced upon by Gomes in a jungle while documenting the slender loris. It is clearly hundreds of years old, but one can easily expect the cart man to turn up, yolk his bulls to it and trundle off.

The Chitra museum is an ode to Goa and the rich traditions of our forefathers. There is everything from the more expected feni distillation plant, potters’ wheels, baskets, sickles, pots and lamps, to the more awe-inspiring crab traps, multi-seed sowers, de-husking equipment, record-keeping coconut stamps, raincoats, herbal brooms, coconut scraper-fish cleaner-vegetable grater combination implement, a barbecue kit and even an ice cream-making machine.

It shows a time of living harmoniously with nature (using cooling banyan tree stems as cattle yolks instead of the ‘modern’ nylon ropes) and interesting quirks of the time (a varying measuring system that proved rampant cheating between farmer, tenant and communidade).

Gomes’ favourite pieces in his collection are a sugarcane grinder from Canacona taluka and a coconut oil grinder from Sattari taluka, which took him decades to find and years to restore.

Over the years, he has found himself bent over in people’s attics, store rooms and farms. He recalls going as far as to break down part of a wall and rebuild it to remove a huge pot for his collection.

61

VICTOR HUGO GOMES

Once we find an object, we bring it here to the workshop to be cleaned. The extent of damage is assessed and only then we begin working on it. In restoration, all changes that one makes must be visible and reversible. When restoring woodwork that has been eaten up or lost, we use saw dust mixed with an adhesive, which can be removed. The preservative coating used is PMMA solution which can be taken off using xylene.

62

WO’GOA

63

VICTOR HUGO GOMES

64

WO’GOA

The restorer has realised the immense worth of the treasure trove we have in India. “Museums around the world are struggling to draw stories around objects because they do not belong to their culture.

In the South Asian gallery in a museum in Britain, you might find a statue of Buddha next to a statue of Hanuman, which does not make sense since there is no relationship. What really hurts me is that in India and in Goa, we have the story, but we are destroying it,” he said.

Despite no advertisements and only a small presence on social media, the museums have a continuous stream of visitors. They completed five years this year, with at least 300,000 guests, including authors Orhan Pamuk and Kiran Desai, actor Robert De Niro and Nobel Peace Prize winner Rajendra Pachauri. It has also received top marks from nearly all bibles of tourism, including TripAdvisor, Time magazine and Lonely Planet.

Gomes’ target audience is students and children, cruise liners and dedicated tourists. He explained, “Only two per cent of our footfalls are from tourism because I don’t think the tourists we get in Goa at the moment come for culture. We’ve lost the plot and need to rebrand Goa.” And with no support whatsoever from the government, it falls squarely on his shoulders to keep his vision in sight and tirelessly continue his work.

And what is his vision? Gomes looks at his museums as an old age home, where he simply prolongs the death of the objects. His ultimate vision is to make replicas, using the same tradespeople, the same know-how, so they are original and can last for another 200 years. At a time when much of the older generation is slowly dying, and taking their traditional skills with them, he is working to start a school of culture, where original tradespeople mentor students to save traditional occupations.

Where most people lament the loss of tradition with verbose dialogue and half-hearted attempts, Victor Hugo Gomes is a beacon of light powering his recreation of Goa through the blessings of thousands of souls whose belongings he has restored.

W O‘GOA

65

The Business of Bread Typical mornings in Goa for decades have been made with the honking of the poder’s horn, signalling the ripe tradition of bread-making that continues unabated to this day!

66

By Dielle D’Souza Photo Arnold Norohna 67

PHILIP MONTEIRO

The warm stodgy texture of traditional Goan bread breaks through the boundaries of pre- and post-Portuguese culinary treasures as it sops up well with most dishes favoured in the state. With a number of different varieties, it is easy to see how Goans took to this European gift and made it their own long after the colonisers left. n the cooler months, mist hugs the ground, making it easier for sounds to travel. As dawn sets in, the call of crickets grows to a chorus, birds chatter loudly and church bells ring in the distance. But the clarion sound that cracks through the last vestiges of sleep is the cheerful honking of the baker’s horn.

I

burgeoning taste among Goans for this delicious product.

The recipe for Goa’s bread hasn’t changed much ever since, but its story is still being written. Monteiro remembers a time when his grandfather ran the bakery, toiling long and hard in the confines of the enclosed space to feed his family. The bakery Goa is synonymous with lots of things – beautiful moved places within the city in 1971 but he has beaches, pretty architecture, golden rice fields and retained the values and traditions he learnt as a sleepy villages. But what it holds dearest are the young boy growing up under the care of his father sounds and smells of home. Tucked away in every and grandfather. village, fighting modernisation tooth-and-nail, clinging hopefully to the past is the quintessential “I was 10 years old when I learned how to make bread, working with my father. I studied through Goan baker. to graduation and worked at the same time,” Taken from padeiro, the Portuguese word for baker, Monteiro said. He uses largely the same method the poder has been immortalised in nearly every and process used by his forefathers. But with an traditional depiction of Goa. He sits comfortably exploding population and lots of competition, work on the spongy seat of his Atlas bicycle, a large hours are longer and the profits smaller. basket or pantlo tied securely to the rear carriage, as he pedals languorously down curving village The baker explained, “During my grandfather’s lanes to deliver fresh, piping hot bread to the time, the bakery would run only in the evening and neighbourhood, announcing his imminent arrival distribution was not the way it currently is. Now, we must make bread twice a day to keep up with the with a rubber horn. rush, and distribution too is done twice a day.”

But this wasn’t how it always was. “Back in the days of the Portuguese, we didn’t have bicycles,” recalled It is said that when the missionaries first introduced Philip Monteiro, who runs a bakery in Panjim. “The bread to Goa, they used coconut toddy to help the poder would carry the pantlo filled with bread on dough rise, giving it a unique taste. This has since his head, and tap the ground with a thick stick been replaced with the use of yeast, due to its easy he carried.” The stick had several brass cymbals availability and the drop in the number of both attached to it, so when it struck the ground, it would coconut plantations and toddy tappers. emit a ringing noise.

Bakeries across Goa traditionally make five types of In the days before the European colonisers arrived, bread – poie, unde, pão, katri pão, and kaknam.

Goa was a land of rice. Gruel and Sannas (rice The poie or poli resembles slightly risen pita bread, cakes fermented with coconut toddy) were possibly with its airy pockets ideal for stuffing. It is made of the most common fare. On the arrival of the whole wheat flour and dusted with bran, possibly Portuguese, the welcoming locals adopted a range the healthiest variant of Goan bread. According to of customs, particularly cuisine, and began making Monteiro, more and more people are taking to the pão or bread to serve the visitors and satisfy a poie due to its health benefits for the increasing 68

WO’GOA

69

PHILIP MONTEIRO

number of patients with diabetes.

The unde is similar to the Italian ciabatta, crusty on the outside and soft and chewy inside. It perfectly accompanies spicy Goan chouriço, crunchy beef cutlets or even the hot and sour ambot tik curry made with baby shark or stingray. It has a slight cut running down the centre that makes tearing it apart very easy.

Used as the most common image of traditional Goan bread, the pão is soft and golden brown on the outside. Goans settled in Mumbai are commonly referred to as ‘pãos’ for their love of the bread, which is generally stuffed with a hot chilli bhaji or pakora, eaten with scalding tomato-based bhaji at a roadside stall or simply slathered with butter.

Another variant called the katri pão is also made, using a tiny pair of scissors to slice the ball of raw dough and then prise it apart. The result is a butterfly- or bow-shaped loaf that is not as crusty as the unde yet not as airy as the pão.

Some bakeries still make the kaknam or bangle bread, shaped like a skinny doughnut. The hard, crusty bread is most often eaten with tea, dipping it in the hot beverage to soften slightly.

Baking in a wood-fired oven is very important to the tradition of Goan bread. Despite pollution norms and populated towns, Goa has still stuck to this custom. Monteiro explained that moving to electricity will allow bakers to only make pão and not unde. “People like crisp bread, but if you bake the dough in an electric oven it becomes soft. Also, you have to use sugar in the flour when using an electric oven to get that colour, when the recipes for unde and poie do not call for it,” he said.

Monteiro makes all the local types in his bakery but finds that people in the capital do not have much of a preference for katri pão. “It is popular in Mapusa, Margao and Vasco. But in Panjim, the specialty is unde,” he said, adding that the latter is his favourite type to eat, while his wife and children opt for the softer pão.

70

WO’GOA

71

PHILIP MONTEIRO

72

WO’GOA

Together with his staff, he bakes about 60-70kgs of bread twice a day. It begins at about three in the morning, when they wake up and say a prayer, asking for blessings on the day’s toil and sales.

Monteiro said, “It doesn’t matter what religion my staff follow; I have taught them all to pray. Without praying, the work cannot begin since all we get is from God. We pray four times a day – before both sessions of baking and distribution.”

They begin with making the dough in an electric mixer. In the old days, dough was mixed by hand.

This particular bakery uses very little yeast in its mixture. “Our recipe is a secret as we do not reveal the amount of yeast used in the dough. The low quantity ensures that the bread does not smell and does not get stale easily,” Monteiro explained.

The dough is then left to rise for about four to five hours. At about 9am, they begin preparing the bread, rolling it as required based on the type of bread being made. In most bakeries, staff sit on the floor, churning out loaf after loaf in quick succession.

The unbaked pão is usually baked as sets of six in a metal tin, sometimes covered with a damp cloth until baking time to reduce chances of moisture escaping. The rest are set aside individually. By noon, they are ready to begin baking.

In Monteiro’s small bakery behind his house, his staff work quickly to shape the dough and place it in a wood-fired oven made of stone. Over the next two hours they work in boiling conditions, the heat from the oven flush against their skin, as they use a long-handled ladle similar to those used in making pizza to place the loaves in the baking area and remove them when done.

This batch of bread is rolled out for distribution by bicycle in the evening, after the second batch of dough has been kneaded and left to rise. The process of preparing the bread for baking will be repeated at about 10pm and baking by about midnight so the loaves are available to consumers piping hot from the oven from six each morning.

It is a continuous process and bakeries are rarely, if ever, shut; only the staff work on rotation to ensure 73

PHILIP MONTEIRO

74

WO’GOA

75

PHILIP MONTEIRO

76

WO’GOA

they get sufficient rest. Monteiro keeps his staff of five happy so they are committed and loyal. “We have one baker who has been with us for 30 years, and another for 20 years. We give them accommodation and my wife cooks meals for them,” he said.

He finds himself lucky to have them return after their month-long vacation each year, during a time when some bakeries suffer acute staff shortage, with bakers working for just three months or six months at a time.

This problem is being noticed across Goa, where the new generation are loath to continue in their parents’ footsteps. Staff usually comes in from Belgaum and Hubli in the neighbouring state of Karnataka.

Monteiro himself is unsure of the future. None of his children seem very keen on taking after him.

“My children do not prefer this type of work. They tell me it’s too difficult since it involves waking up early in the morning and sleeping late in the night,” he said. But his four children – three sons and a daughter – are still studying and he is hopeful. “One cannot tell; their minds can change. We can only pray,” he added.

The uncertain future hinges not just on the unwillingness of posterity but also on appropriate investment and returns. Prices of ingredients are constantly rising, but hiking the cost of the finished product might put it out of reach of the poor man, whose staple breakfast it continues to be.

The state government had called for each loaf to weigh a minimum of 40gms to 50gms, but Monteiro tries to ensure his is about 10gms more to give his consumers more bite for their buck. Bakers must also factor in weight loss from baking, which he said drops by as much as 20gms.

Subsequently, the longer the bread is left uneaten, the lighter it gets, losing around 5gms per day, according to Monteiro.

He explains that the problem with receiving subsidies on the ingredients lies in an inconsistent quality of the flour. “These systems require bakers to pay for the flour before they receive it, so if you get a bad lot, you cannot send the flour back. Currently, we have an agent who sources flour from Kolhapur in Maharashtra, immediately delivers it when required and replaces consignments if they are not up to the mark,” he added.

They are still awaiting word from the government on the next step.

In the meantime, the tradition of Goa’s pão grapples with increasing competition from long-lasting factory-made varieties filled with preservatives and fewer locals in the business.

But Monteiro believes that as long as Goans are at the helm, the business of bread will remain as tasty as ever, ensuring good quality and quantity.

W O‘GOA

77

Jacky Oberti Over the years Chef Jacky Oberti he has become a fully-fledged artist, a master in the art of juggling lean cuisine and traditional cookery. This virtuoso prepares a dietetic menu every day at L’Hirondelle, a menu based on the fresh produce found at the morning’s market, and à la carte “light” meals. Immersed in his cooking and the culture of the South of France, rich in colours and local produce.

Trained in traditional cooking at the Hôtel de Paris, Jacky made a name for himself in various competitions. He won the first prize at the regional heat for the Rotisseurs, then winning the first prize at the national level competition; and bagged the third prize in the same category at the international level; and a finalist at the “Mandarine Impériale” and “Grand Marnier” competitions.

In 1982, Jacky Oberti returned to lean cuisine, and worked in various leading establishments including the Centre Louison Bobet in Biarritz, and underwent a training course in Michel Guérard’s cooking techniques. He went on to perfect his know-how with Sonoma in the United States wher he discovered the “Full Beverage Coster” and contributed to the creation of a book “Spa Food Souti”.

In 1988, with Sylvain Portay, a disciple of Alain Ducasse, he proved his talents at Le Grill a one Michelin starred restaurant at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo and at the same time, he trained as a nutritionist in disassociated cooking and as a herbalist. In 1994, he joined the Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo where he stayed until 1998, when he took over the kitchens at the Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo.

78

79

JACKY OBERTI - THERMES MARINS MONTE-CARLO

WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to became one of the most renowned Spa Chef!

Jacky Oberti: In the 80’s, when I was working at the Hotel de Paris, I was experiencing some health problems. I decided to discover why and how and to see how food can affect your health. I understood all the different techniques of lean-cuisine through my experiences in Biarritz and thanks to the training course in Michel Guérard’s cooking techniques.

These experiences were a real revelation for me. It was the beginning of my professional life.

I cook Mediterranean cuisine, more specifically Cretan cuisine, with herbs and spices.

Basically, Cretan Cuisine uses very few quantities of animal proteins and finds the balance between vegetables, slow burning carbohydrates and vegetable proteins.

As mentioned above, I work also with spices. The benefits of spices are mostly unknown.

Some aid digestion and help the body to eliminate the toxins.

WO’GOA: Tell us about your path to becoming a chef and what inspired you to pursue this career?

Jacky Oberti: I love eating, pleasing people and sharing with them. Being a cook was evidence. For me, that’s the best job matching with all my expectations.

WO’GOA: In 1982 you underwent training with Michel Guérard one of the Fathers of Nouvelle Cuisine and the Founder of the Cuisine Minceur, and then later in 1988 with Sylvain Portay, how did that experience help to form who you are as a chef today?

Jacky Oberti: To meet different chefs enables you to learn different techniques and to keep the ones that suit you. Michel Guérard is the founder of the cuisine Minceur as you say. His training helped me to create my way of cooking.

WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen?

Jacky Oberti: As I explained it in your first question, the greatest influences come from Mediterranean cuisine and more specifically Cretan cuisine. I also get inspiration from Asian cuisine thanks to my different trips in Japan, Thailand and China.

WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why?

Jacky Oberti: The best recipe I can create is yet to come. In fact, I adapt my cuisine to the products. My fisherman calls me, every day, to tell me what he fished and I adapt my menu to the nature. I therefore need to innovate and to create a new recipe almost every single day.

WO’GOA: Your culinary creations which are based on traditional cooking in a modern kitchen, menus based on fresh produce and a master in the art of juggling lean cuisine, how do you bring this balance on the plate?

80

GOA & BEYOND - MONTE-CARLO

81

JACKY OBERTI - THERMES MARINS MONTE-CARLO

82

GOA & BEYOND - MONTE-CARLO

Jacky Oberti: I simply adapt to the seasons. It is the most important part of my cuisine: different fresh products for every season. Then, I had the opportunity to work with nutritionists. That gave me all the basis of well-balanced nutrition. So, as we propose healthy menu to our guests, I cook both with those following goals : pleasure of the palace, healthy food and high quality products.

WO’GOA: Is there a process you go through to create a new dish?

Jacky Oberti: In order to create a new dish, I use the different experiences I gathered throughout the years, from older chefs but I also use the creativity of the younger ones. I try to evolve with my time and to adapt to the new generation. And… I also let my instinct talk.

WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients and what are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

Jacky Oberti: I like to work with lots of ingredients that are cultivated healthily without GMO, and when possible, locally grown and produced.

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why?

Jacky Oberti: Both are necessary. Technique is really important to learn the basis. When you master the technique, you let your creativity express itself in order to add the special touch to your dish.

However, you cannot create a recipe without any technique.

WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food?

Jacky Oberti: Vegetables from my garden or my neighbor’s olive oil ….and of course chocolate!

WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today?

Jacky Oberti: The role of an experienced chef is to share his knowledge with the new generation, and to give them the pleasure and the passion of cooking and discovering new products.

W O‘GOA

83

C

hef Gerard Prat Escola’s culinary journey has seen him cooking in the most respected kitchens of Spain and most recently Mexico.

Born and raised in Barcelona, the Catalan native entered culinary school at an early age and has not looked back since. A specialist in Spanish cooking, Chef Gerard exudes a passion to master and be a creative force to take his native cuisine to the next level. He has crafted Spanish dishes in its myriad forms, from traditional to modern. As the Head Chef of Catalunya Singapore, Chef Gerard brings his expertise to develop the brand, presiding over a menu that lauds authentic Catalan ingredients while embracing modern cooking techniques.

WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chef’s find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and through this culinary journey to becoming a chef and the inspiration of pursuing this career?

Gerard Prat Escola: I was raised by a family of good cooks. Although they are not chefs by profession, preparing a delicious meal was not something that they take lightly. At 16 years old, I entered culinary school at Escola De Restauracio i Hosteleria de Barcelona and opened my own restaurant at 22 years old. I had the privilege to work for the trendiest and most successful Spanish F&B Group, Grupo Tragaluz, where I helped to open various concepts in Barcelona, Madria, and most recently in Mexico.

WO’GOA: How did the Roca brothers inspire you? Tell us about this experience and did this experience have a significant impact on his career as a chef today?

Gerard Prat Escola: They are my inspiration when it comes to the diversity of techniques that I can employ and have thought me a great deal about being organized in the kitchen to be efficient and effective. On top of that, it is inspirational for me to experience the beauty of the establishment that they have built, transforming a traditional family restaurant into the top restaurant in the world. I hope to model my career after their passion and vision.

WO’GOA: Take us through the experience when you were picked to lead Groupo Tragaluz first international restaurant outside Spain?

Gerard Prat Escola: It was an amazing experience because it gave me a platform to showcase the philosophy of Spanish cuisine on a world stage.

It was my first time working on a project outside of my country and with it there were many other “firsts” experiences trying to source for the right produces and understanding and working with people from a different culture. Personally it was also an affirmation of my years of hard work and an honour for me to have been picked to open the Group’s first project outside of Spain.

84

85

GERARD PRAT ESCOLA - CATALUNYA

WO’GOA: How would you describe the cuisine at Catalunya?

Gerard Prat Escola: Catalunya is unique because it serves both modern interpretations of Catalan cuisine as well as traditional home recipes that are well loved at our food markets in Spain. We want to offer our customers an authentic dining experience even in Asia with premium seasonal ingredients that we bring in from the Mediterranean and the Catalunya concept this gives me room to be creative and experiment with these quality produce.

WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen?

Gerard Prat Escola: I have a lot of respect for my first Head Chef, Mr. Sergi Clapes. He always believed in me and gave the confidence I needed to be where I am today.

86

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

WO’GOA: If you weren’t a chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Gerard Prat Escola: I would love to be an artist. Being a chef, for me, is my avenue to be creative and have that inspirations be reflected in my dishes. Therefore by being an artist, I could continue to create new things.

WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why?

Gerard Prat Escola: I’m most proud of my Lobster Rice which is a plate that I learned from my mom. In the past, we would both find ways to improve the recipe and that helped us to bond. We usually prepare this dish for our Christmas dinner.

87

ANDONIPRAT GERARD LUIS ESCOLA ADURIZ - CATALUNYA

WO’GOA: Take us though Catalunya’s Signature Dishes, especially the most iconic creations of Ferran Adrià and El Bulli which features on your menu?

Gerard Prat Escola: Tomato Tartar - this is dish is a one-ingredient-wonder which made up of tomato air and tomato tartare. This dish was to mimic the traditional meat tapa but recreated as a menu option for our vegetarian friends.

Avocado Roll - with the Avocado Roll we have shredded fresh lobster wrapped in carpaccio slices of avocado, topped with ikura and caviar. The roll is then drizzled with yuzu dressing to add a citrusy flavour.

The Other Spanish Tortilla - this tortilla breaks any conventional perception of the Spanish omelette.

Served in martini glass, customers will dig into a layer of potato foam, followed by layer of egg yolk, and then caramelized onions at the bottom on the glass.

WO’GOA: Your culinary creations are based on your native cuisine, could you tell us how you bring about this balance on a plate?

Gerard Prat Escola: I do my research by eating out a lot in the country that I am in, and most importantly with local friends to have a better understanding of how they prefer their food. Eating out is also a way for me to explore local dishes and incorporate a little bit of a local flavor in some of my recipe.

88

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

WO’GOA: Could you share the process you go through to create a new dish?

Gerard Prat Escola: I start out by gathering ideas from studying Spanish recipes and from there I experiment with the products, mixing ingredients and using different techniques until I get what I am looking for. For me, the most important part of the process is identifying the right product.

WO’GOA: How would you say is the food culture in Asia – Singapore compared to Spain?

Gerard Prat Escola: It is totally different, I love the Asian food because the spice plays a very important role in the Asian culinary landscape and I find it interesting how it is able to change the flavour of a dish by mixing the different ones.

WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients?

Gerard Prat Escola: Since it’s only been a few months since I’ve started cooking in Singapore, I’m still exploring on the unique ingredients from the region and it’s been an exciting time. We currently do use a lot of yuzu in our menu at Catalunya.

WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

89

GERARD PRAT ESCOLA - CATALUNYA

90

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

Gerard Prat Escola: I love working with potatoes and eggs, they can be used with all sorts of products.

WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why?

Gerard Prat Escola: Thankfully, I haven’t had such an encounter yet.

WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using?

Gerard Prat Escola: At the moment I enjoy preparing dishes cooked in low temperature in a sous vide machine.

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why?

Gerard Prat Escola: Technique. It is what makes the creative idea come alive.

WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food?

Gerard Prat Escola: I can’t say no to eggs, I love them in any way they are prepared.

WO’GOA: What does Gerard Prat Escola do when he needs a break? How do you spend your time off?

Gerard Prat Escola: I love to travel a lot. I like to discover a new cultures, new places and destinations and of course new food.

WO’GOA: What is next for Gerard Prat Escola perhaps a book?

Gerard Prat Escola: I have had my go at opening and running my own restaurant back in Spain so for now I’m focused on expanding the Spanish culinary influence out of Europe and into this part of the world.

W O‘GOA

91

WILLIBALD REINBACHER - SHANTI MAURICE

illibald Reinbacher’s culinary passion was first nurtured in his native Austria, where he learnt about the importance of fresh quality ingredients and where he developed the creative flair that has become a hallmark of his cuisine. Chef Willi’s skills were further honed during a ten-year period in Dubai, working alongside some of the finest chefs from around the world.

During this period, which coincided with Dubai’s meteoric rise to become one of the world’s great culinary centres, Chef Willi led a talented team of chefs who consistently delivered exceptionally wellexecuted classical cuisine alongside contemporary and stunningly artisinal dishes. As Executive Chef of Shanti Maurice, Chef Willi views Mauritius as the perfect location to further develop his passion for serving the finest and freshest food.

W

WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up.

Tell us more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field!

Willibald Reinbacher: If I think back to when I grew up in the Alps of Austria I got my passion for food and cooking as a little boy. My grandpa used to produce most of the food that we used for our family on his farm, so I was always involved in harvesting the vegetables, slaughtering and preparing the meats like sausages, bacon and hams, making some special Austrian cheese. He taught me how to make our own cider and of course our popular Austrian schnapps, which is a very strong spirit distilled out of fruits.

WO’GOA: Take us through this culinary journey to becoming a chef and the inspiration of pursuing this career?

Willibald Reinbacher: I always had a passion for good food and honestly I never thought of doing something else. Schladming, that’s the village where I am from, is a ski resort and all the hotels and restaurants there provided me with the best opportunities to start my career.

WO’GOA: What is your philosophy on food and dining?

92

93

WILLIBALD REINBACHER - SHANTI MAURICE

Willibald Reinbacher: My philosophy of food and dining is simple, good food you will eat again and a successful dining experience is whenever a guest leaves your place having already decided to come back.

WO’GOA: How has your own culinary vision shaped and molded the diner’s experience in Shanti Maurice?

Willibald Reinbacher: When I started nearly 5 years ago with Nira, to take over the culinary part of Shanti Maurice, we decided to create something unique using the influences of Mauritius and South Africa. The most important thing was to create a unique culinary concept that was not available anywhere else. So anyone who wanted to experience our cuisine would need to come to our resort.

One unique feature of our cuisine is that we use the wide range of local products, tropical fruits and vegetables grown on the island, poultry, deer and pigs from the local farms and the fresh fish and seafood caught from the sea.

Our cuisine is also unique because of the various cultures which influenced the cuisine in Mauritius and the Cape.

So, we have the Indian Mauritians who brought spices to the island, then we have the south East Asians, the Chinese, the African Creole and of course the European influence which was brought by the Portuguese, French and Dutch.

In our kitchen we use all the cooking

94

GOA & BEYOND - MAURITIUS

techniques of these cultures and use only local produce as much as possible.

WO’GOA: If you had one thing you could do over again, what would it be?

Willibald Reinbacher: Becoming a chef WO’GOA: What’s something you’d like guests to know about the cuisine at Shanti Maurice?

Willibald Reinbacher: Our philosophy is founded on the belief that ingredients should always be fresh and locally produced. Furthermore, the best way to fully appreciate our destination and its culture is through the cuisine. This philosophy is reflected throughout “Shanti Maurice”, from the estates extensive Herb & Vegetable garden to the close relationships forged with local farmers and fishermen.

WO’GOA: Take us through your 15 mile menu!

Willibald Reinbacher: The 15 Miles Menu is a degustation menu which again reflects our philosophy very strongly. We source all the ingredients within a radius of 15 miles around the hotel and pair each course with a carefully selected wine from South Africa.

WO’GOA: The La Kaze Mama in the Herb Garden, could you tell us more about it?

Willibald Reinbacher: Yes, we launched La Kaze Mama recently and with great

95

WILLIBALD REINBACHER - SHANTI MAURICE

96

GOA & BEYOND - MAURITIUS

success. It means “mamas house” and is a small restaurant in our Herb and Vegetable garden where guests can join our grandma by cooking roti, which is a flat bread, before sitting down under a pergola and enjoying grandma’s local specialties that she would eat at home. This is an unique experience which guests will remember for a long time and talk about when they get back home from their vacation.

WO’GOA: What does good food mean to you and your favorite meal in Mauritius?

Willibald Reinbacher: Like I said already, good food means for me food that I remember and would eat again. Most times it is a memorable flavor. Let’s say there are certain places and restaurants where I know already what to eat before I walk in. It does not matter what country it is, you have good food everywhere. To give some examples, when I go to south East Asia I will eat a beef rendang or a som tam because it’s good, when I go back home I eat a proper cooked gulash and if my mum cooks, to finish my meal with an apple strudel, it’s good as well. When I go to an English pub I try to get a fish and chips because it’s the best there, especially if they use a fresh cod or haddock.

to tamarind, mainly used for savory or sweet dishes.

WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

Willibald Reinbacher: My favorite ingredients keep on changing. Whenever I travel I like to bring new seeds or plants for our herb and vegetable garden.

If something grows successfully I will implement it in our menus. I think I am the only one in Mauritius who grows varieties like horse radish, raspberries or fresh peppermint.

WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why?

Willibald Reinbacher: Not usually. It’s sometimes tricky, but if you try hard, you get everything right.

As an example, there is sometimes meat around that’s really tough and not easy to eat, but there are always ways to tenderize it, like using the green papaya, which contains an enzyme called papain that tenderizes meat. I think this technique comes from the Bushmen in Africa.

WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using?

Willibald Reinbacher: Being here on an island it’s difficult to rely on “the latest and greatest cooking tools”. If something breaks down you have to wait a few weeks until receiving the right spare parts and to get it repaired. Of course sometimes I think a new machine would be nice, but if you are creative WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are enough you always find ways to get everything inspiring you right now and how do you select your right with the same equipment that they used 50 ingredients? years ago.

In Mauritius I know one restaurant where, whenever I visit, the chef always prepares a whole, fresh and baked fish with some vinday spices. It’s fantastic, you taste the sea, and it’s so fresh. And of course I love the Mauritian curries.

Willibald Reinbacher: I always look to use ingredients which are from the region. Here in Mauritius we will always find something what we never have used before in our dishes whether it’s from the sea, from the garden or the farm. Let’s say at the moment we are creating a new dish with Bilimbi, which is a very sour fruit with a similar use

WO’GOA: What does Willibald Reinbacher do when he needs a break? How do you spend your time off?

Willibald Reinbacher: At least once a year I like to go home for a few days to ski and catch up with family and friends.

W O‘GOA

97

Daniel Chavez 98

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

aniel Chavez is a Peruvian chef who discovered his passion for cooking when he moved to Florida, United States with his family at age 19. After working in some casual style bistros, he decided to travel to Spain and experience working in the best restaurants he possibly could. His first experience in a gastronomic scene was La Sucursal, a Michelin star restaurant La Sucursal in Valencia, where he worked for one year as chef de partie. He then joined the team of Santi Santamaria in the three Michelin star restaurant Can Fabes. Worked ar Les Amis, Singapore under the direction of Gunther Hubrechsen and in 2007 chef Santamaria asked him to rejoin his team as chef de cuisine in Ossiano, in the Atlantis hotel the Palm Jumeriah, Dubai. Daniel returned to Singapore in 2010 and became the executive chef of a much more ambitious project, “Santi” at Marina Bay Sands hotel and in July 2012 the opportunity to open his own personal project, OLA Cocina del Mar in Marina Bay Financial Centre.

D

WO’GOA: It’s interesting to learn how Chefs find their passion for cooking and where they grew up. Tell me more about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field as Peru’s culinary ambassador in Singapore?

chefs from Peru to come and explore Asia.

WO’GOA: Take us through this culinary journey to becoming a chef and the inspiration of pursuing this career?

Daniel Chavez: I believe a very big amount of Daniel Chavez: As a teenager, I always liked chefs start with the same motivation all over the to cook yet I never realized that this could be a profession that you could actually make a living world. Is the love that you have for food! with. I believe 25 years ago to be a chef was not As a kid I couldn’t really explain it. I was not sure if perceived the same way that it is nowadays. it was the restaurants itself that made me interested I was 19 years old when my whole family moved or the food they were making. from Peru to United States, Florida. At the time I have been very lucky as in my family we have while I was living in Lima, I used to study Business many great cooks such as my mother and father, Administration. I almost graduated, yet the truth is grandmothers, uncles, etc. that deep inside I always knew that ending up in an When I became a chef I never thought I was going office was not my dream. to be able to travel to so many places and work with so many great people.

I took the opportunity of the change of environment to try something new so I joined the Florida Culinary I came to Singapore 10 years ago, I used to live in Institute. After one week on board I discovered my Barcelona at the time. I came here thinking that I passion. would befor for 1 year and then continue the trip It has been a non stop ride since then. I feel I am the somewhere else. luckiest man as I have had the opportunity to travel When I used to tell people I was Peruvian, nobody to so many cities in different countries like Florida, knew where the country was located. I guess it USA; Valencia and Barcelona, Spain, Singapore, would be the same if you ask a Peruvian where is Dubai, etc.

Singapore on the map.

I was lucky enough to manage to work in the most What is very interesting is that lately people are reputable restaurants in the cities that I landed so I more aware of it now and to my great surprise they learned very valuable lessons along the way. That alone has already made the experience invaluable. also know a little more about the food.

I don’t consider myself the Peruvian Culinary Ambassador as OLA is not a Peruvian restaurant. I really hope that one day we could start to work in a Peruvian project and also for many of my fellow

WO’GOA: How did Santi Santamaria inspire you?

Tell us about this experience and did this experience have a significant impact on your career as a chef today?

99

DANIEL CHAVEZ - OLA COCINA DEL MAR

Daniel Chavez: After working for 1 year in Valencia in 1 michelin star “La Sucursal”, I was given the opportunity to work for one of the biggest chefs in the country, Santi Santamaria.

At the time I had read some of his cookbooks yet I never imagined that one day I could be part of the kitchen brigade of Can Fabes.

As you can imagine, I was very impressed with the standards and the set up of the restaurant, but the truth is that everything changed for me the day that I had the opportunity to try the food that we were preparing. Our sous chef in charge had the nice gesture to let me try occasionally the completed dishes that we were cooking everyday.

It was AWESOME! I couldn’t believe that such simple preparations could result in such clear and direct flavors. That was it. I knew I had to stay as long as I could in this great place.

As an overall from this experience the biggest lesson of all was to truly have a passion to try to understand the nature of the ingredients, where do they come from, their seasonality, who was growing them, etc.

One phrase that I will carry for the rest of my life from Santi was: “Most chefs nowadays spend their time thinking on how to make food look pretty, yet what we should always try to do is to make food look appetizing” Amazing! So much truth in such a simple phrase.

WO’GOA: How would you describe the cuisine at OLA Cocina Del Mar? Daniel Chavez: Simple, Fresh, Light and most important Tasty.

WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen?

Daniel Chavez: For sure the greatest inspiration in the kitchen is the produce itself. Any effort that we do is towards the believe that we should always honor the product first and then think how to present it in the most sincere possible way.

WO’GOA: If you weren’t a chef what do you think you’d be doing?

Daniel Chavez: That is a great question as I hardly think of this possibility. The truth is that before I became a chef I never really felt true motivation in my life, so that has been my drive for now.

100

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

Seasonal Heriloom tomato salad with Spanish saffron vinaigrette, nuts and pomelo 101

DANIEL CHAVEZ - OLA COCINA DEL MAR

On the other hand I have always admired musicians and I also play the guitar, but I don’t think I would be able to earn a living as I am not great at it.

WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created? What inspired this recipe and why?

Daniel Chavez: I believe nowadays the term creativity is taken lightly. I have always thought that very few people are able to create something new. You can see that restaurants with a high a mount of “new” dishes have a team that focus the entire day to create something new through a lot of research and testing. Very few restaurants in the world can do that.

To my understanding what we chefs do is modify recipes or adapt dishes that we have tried to our liking or the liking of our clientele.

WO’GOA: Your culinary creations are based on your own signature style to classic Spanish seafood dishes, could you tell us how you bring about this balance on a plate?

Daniel Chavez: One of the nicest compliments that we receive in OLA from our clients is when we are told that our dishes are balanced.

This to me is one of the hardest things to accomplish as first of all you need to know very well who are your customers which are at the end the ultimate judges if a dish is a success or not.

As in a cooking style we try as much as we can to serve classic or traditional dishes form Spain and lately also from Peru, presented in a modern way.

People all over the world eat very differently so we try to pay attention to what might be more suitable for the market.

102

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

WO’GOA: Could you share the process you go through to create a new dish?

Daniel Chavez: As I mentioned before what we do in OLA is give a slightly modern angle on classic preparations.

The reason being of this is very simple, Classic and traditional food “works”.

We always try to understand what is in season and what are our customer requirements.

There is no point for us to think how to do a dish with bone marrow or oysters if our clientele doesn’t like it in an average.

Luckily for us in OLA we have a considerable amount of regular guests. This allows us to establish great communication and we can understand better what is the direction we should go.

After this, it is my sous chef and myself who will develop the dish. This will take around 3 to 4 times until we are excited with the final outcome. The mission is always clear.

Maximize the flavor and give a sincere approach to the dish.

WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients?

Sustainable Spot prawns “a la plancha” with cherry tomatoes and coriander 103

DANIEL CHAVEZ - OLA COCINA DEL MAR

Daniel Chavez: Before I opened OLA, I did an amazing trip to Barcelona, Galicia, Lima and the Amazon in order to understand better where do ingredients come from.

I realized then that the only way to select your ingredients properly is to communicate as much as you can with the suppliers of the restaurant and establish a strong relationship as they are the ones who know what is best.

For example in OLA, we don’t order any particular fish species, we order only sustainable line caught fish and we find out what we are getting the day of the delivery. How can you ask your fish supplier a 3 kg snapper if this is neither wild nor line caught? We have to be more understanding with this issue.

WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with?

Daniel Chavez: OLA is a seafood restaurant so we focus our attention towards the sea products.

104

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

On the other hand I love to use chillies, at the end of the day I am Peruvian. In my country we eat a lot if it. I think the Asian crowd also likes chillies, so we try to incorporate them lightly in some of our preparations.

WO’GOA: Is there an ingredient that you weren’t able to master and have given up on and why?

Daniel Chavez: I wish I would know better how to work with offal and to learn more about Charcuterie as I love to eat them yet the right opportunity just never came.

WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using?

Daniel Chavez: I love to cook and I love to eat anything that is cooked “a la plancha” (on the hot griddle plate). It is one of the most basic techniques yet the flavor that this imparts to almost everything you put on top.

Swordfish “Mi - cuit”, cous cous, roasted leeks and pine nut sauce 105

DANIEL CHAVEZ - OLA COCINA DEL MAR

WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why?

Daniel Chavez: I would say that both come together as you to know a wide range of techniques to be truly creative, yet far much more important than both in my opinion is “Flavor”. At the end, food is meant to be eaten and you will remember something that tasted great more than what looked innovative or had a great technique.

WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food?

Daniel Chavez: In Singapore, most of the best eateries to me are found in the area of Geylang, which ironically also happens to be the red light district.

Most of the restaurants here serve great seafood with unbelievable flavors. My favorite dish is “Crab Bee Hoon” made by one of the most famous people in the F&B in Singapore, Chef Danny of Sin Huat.

WO’GOA: What does Daniel Chavez do when he needs a break? How do you spend your time off?

Daniel Chavez: I love to watch movies in the cinema, take a walk in the park and of course I truly love to go and try new restaurants all the time.

WO’GOA: What is next for Daniel Chavez - perhaps a book?

Daniel Chavez: My priority now is OLA. I would like to establish every day a more consolidated restaurant.

The only way we could do it is with a stronger team so now is our time to work. I would love to work on a cook book as I have many of them and love reading them. When the time is right I would love to explore the possibility.

W O‘GOA 106

GOA & BEYOND - SINGAPORE

Japanese scallop tartar, tomato gazpacho and raspberry vinegar 107

The Gardens of Babylonstoren

By Doug Singer

108

GOA & BEYOND - SOUTH AFRICA

S

urrounded by the mountains of the Drakenstein valley, where nomadic Khoisans roamed for centuries, French Huguenot Pieter van der Byl was granted Babylonstoren in 1692. Shortly thereafter, the first vineyards were planted and the rest as they say, is history.

Today, Babylonstoren is a Cape Dutch farm with vineyards and orchards centered around a beautifully preserved werf (farm yard) dating back to1690. One of the best preserved werfs in the Cape Dutch tradition, this extraordinary property not only features the manor house from 1777, but pioneer structures that date all the way back to the founding of the farm. The Koornhuis (for storing wheat and hay) and the old cellar are exceptional, as well as an ornate fowl house, pigeon loft, leaning bell tower and historic gates that embellish a traditional courtyard surrounded by a low, whitewashed wall.

Cape Dutch architecture is named for the style of the 17th and 18th century Cape of Good Hope. Its characteristic features include soft, whitewashed walls of stone, or primitive brick, ornate gables and thatched roofs, all which are found in abundance while enjoying your time on this extraordinary property.

The guest suites dotting the land echo this architectural sensibility. The interiors are pleasantly cool in summer (due to the thick walls) and during the colder months they are heated by the crackling fire of open hearths.

109

BABYLONSTOREN

A tremendously diverse fruit and vegetable garden is the pride and joy of this farm which is made up primarily of medicinal and edible plants. You will find yourself in a magical wonderland of indigenous herbs, as well as 7000 clivias in spring and 48 pergolas of climbing roses and fruit trees.

This is truly the heart of the farm. It was inspired by the Company Gardens of the Cape, where for centuries ships would replenish with sweet water, vegetables and fruit at the halfway station between Europe and Asia. It also hales back to the mythical garden of Babylon. Spanning eight acres, it is formal in its structure. Every one of over 300 varieties of plants in the garden is edible and fruit and vegetables are harvested year round. The garden is divided into fifteen clusters spanning vegetable areas, berries, bees, indigenous plants, ducks and chickens, and even includes a prickly pear maze. To keep everything healthy and the garden abundant, gravity feeds waterways stemming from a stream as it has been done for over 300 years.

While some of the original buildings have been converted into guest accommodations, a disused kraal was turned into the property’s restaurant, Babel and the garden is truly the life blood of this fine eatery which is a must try while visiting the property.

What would a great meal be without the addition of some fine wine? The terroir of this region is unique and provides an extraordinary environment for the cultivation of the country’s finest and the wines produced here are extremely noteworthy. The geology aids this process as the Simonsberg mountain forms part of the Table Mountain sandstone complex, consisting of layers of sandstone in various 110

GOA & BEYOND - SOUTH AFRICA

111

BABYLONSTOREN

112

GOA & BEYOND - SOUTH AFRICA

stages of geological metamorphosis, while the foothills sport fertile red soils after years of weathering, where clay intermingles with fine sand content.

Along with organic matter, it provides an environment with excellent water retention enabling vines to establish a deep root system. Vineyard altitudes in this area range from 150 to 600 meters (490 to 1,970 feet) above sea level, providing a range of different micro-climates. This variation results in vineyards producing fruit with distinct flavor differences, lending more blending options to the cellar master, resulting in a wide array of excellent wines.

With the combination of a beautiful environment, world-class gardens, cozy accommodations, a restaurant and a fine winery, the days can be filled with natural splendor. Take a stroll along the bell tower axis, the old cellar axis or the Babylonstoren hill axis. The garden walks span over three kilometers. During spring, 7 000 clivias bloom down by the stream, where a secluded path runs in the shade of wild olives and oaks.

The days are intentionally unscripted at Babylonstoren, leaving guests free to do as they please. Stroll out onto the farm of 200 hectares and see fruit being picked in the orchards or vines being pruned – depending on the season. Enjoy a walk in the remarkable fruit and vegetable garden (guided if you feel like learning, or unguided for relaxation). Pick your own salad, or enjoy a meal at Babel. Perhaps a massage in the spa after lunch? Or sample some of the excellent wines grown on the slopes all around the Simonsberg.

Here, the choices seem to be endless and the smiles seem to last forever.

W O‘GOA

113

From Farm To Table Grand Hyatt Goa opens up a new world of artisanal products, music and food with its farmers’ markets every Sunday.

114

115

FARMERS’ MARKET - GRAND HYATT GOA

By Dielle D’Souza Photo Arnold Norohna

his is India and you could be forgiven for imagining a ‘farmers’ market’ to be a bustling commotion of hay-lined stalls, dribbles of squashed organic tomatoes leaking onto the grassy floor and shouts of unsavoury language as assistants fall behind time. It’s the colourful chaos that is as much a beautiful, memorable experience as a dinner on a luxury yacht.

T

But this market was not entirely the same. It had stalls and it was bustling, but the rest was very different. There were manicured lawns and picnic tables, colourful boards and lively conversations, and a setting so pretty it was almost fairy tale. On the serene expansive lawns of the Grand Hyatt Goa in Bambolim, restaurateur and food critic Karen Anand held the first Goa Farmers’ Market in December, bringing her pioneering concept to the state.

Anand is one of Goa’s best kept secrets. Her prolific work across India and exposure to cultures around the world has turned her into something of a kitchen goddess. Having left the UK to live in India – while of course continuing to travel, eat and write – Anand began satiating a desire for quality products in the country during the 1980s when standardisation here was hardly the norm.

With more than 15 books, three cookery shows and restaurants, the stalwart now engages in a host of activities including hospitality consultancy, heading Karen’s Gourmet Academy, and organising the very popular Farmers’ Markets across India.

The debut Goa Farmers’ Market was held at the Grand Hyatt Goa, where tables creaking under colourful organic vegetables, home grown wines, delicious cheeses and a host of other highlights all shared space with dozens of guests sampling the fare. The resort is holding a similar version of the market every Sunday until Anand comes back for the concluding one of the season in February.

It all began when Jaco Le Roux, the dynamic general manager of Grand Hyatt Goa, wanted to host something similar at the resort and found Anand’s time tested concept the perfect match. “My idea is to create a space where people can experience Goa, so there’ll be a mix of food, fashion, lifestyle and others. It’s a place for family, friends and children,” he explained.

116

Farmers’ Market “My idea is to create a space where people can experience Goa, so there’ll be a mix of food, fashion, lifestyle and others. It’s a place for family, friends and children,” Jaco Le Roux, General Manager Manager Grand Hyatt Goa

WO’GOA

Jaco Le Roux 117

FARMERS’ MARKET - GRAND HYATT GOA

118

WO’GOA

119

FARMERS’ MARKET - GRAND HYATT GOA

Although the market has been timed to be held between 11am and 7pm each Sunday, Le Roux said it’s meant for family, friends and children to come around and relax, so lounging by the pool until 8pm is entirely possible. “There’s no structure to this, so people can have fun with live music, beer stalls and wine stations,” he added.

The markets attract everyone from chefs, restaurateurs, passionate amateur cooks and people who love eating and drinking. These are folk looking for alternatives to the supermarket culture, options that talk organic, fresh, conceptual and home-made. Anand – who has organised similar markets in Pune, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bangalore and Gurgaon – prefers five-star hotels as locations to allow the market to breathe in an open space, but also give it a touch of class.

The stalls at the Goa Farmers’ Market on December 14 included PappCo Organic Disposables (Mumbai), Tea Trunk (Goa), Meal Tango (Pune), Typhoo Tea, Desmondji Agave (Goa), Corona Artisanal Cheese, Te-a-me (Kolkata), Neo Foods – Pickled Vegetables (Karnataka), Natti’s Naturals (Goa), Café Chocolatti (Goa), Girmes Wheat Grass (Pune), Nilofer’s Jams (Mumbai), Ninad Pottery (Pune), Suhana Masalas (Pune), Flanders Cheese (Delhi), Momo Studio (Goa), Kingfisher, Madal Sodas (Goa), Sattvic Foods, Dharam Kids, Mulshi Springs (Mumbai), Wineries – Rio (Nasik), Charosa (Nasik), Sula (Nasik) and Reveilo (Nasik) – and Thalassa (Goa).

Grand Hyatt Goa brings all its restaurants out onto the lawns each Sunday, with tables in the middle of the various sections of the market to encourage visitors to move around and check out the market, with intermittent breaks involving food and drink.

The resort’s international music act Jovan and Thelma provide a lively repertoire of music through the day.

The market provides the perfect opportunity for producers of artisanal products to get exposure – meet clients and showcase their work. There is nothing five-star about the pricing of the products, which is often comparable to that found in any 120

WO’GOA

regular open market. Participants are only charged a nominal fee to be part of the Farmers’ Market and can then bank on exposure through social media, advertisements and promotions by the organiser.

The initial challenge has been to convince locals to participate. Le Roux explained, “Not everyone has seen a farmers’ market before so it is difficult for them to imagine what it might be like. So not all vendors are initially excited about coming on board. But as the word spreads, more people will become interested and approach us to be part of it, which is exactly what we’re looking for.”

Traditional farmers’ markets offer increased profit over selling to wholesalers, food processors or large firms by steering clear of the middlemen and selling directly to consumers. With due checks, consumers can expect a better variety of food and other products and a place to meet with other locals socially. According to the Farmers Markets of America, customers drawn to farmers’ markets shop locally for the quality of food, better prices and great social atmosphere.

This is the exact scenario that Grand Hyatt Goa aims to create through its venture. At her events, Anand aims to get as many locals as possible, with the rest made up by trusted associates who have been participating in her Farmers’ Markets across India. The subsequent ones are on a slightly smaller scale, feature only locals and mix in art, fashion and other attractions.

Le Roux has ambitious plans to go full-scale with their version of the market. “We want to make it a weekend affair, where people can fly down, stay at the Grand Hyatt Goa and spend the whole weekend here.” The season will end in February with another Goa Farmers’ Market by Anand, when she expects many more of her usual participants to take a look at the local scene.

The markets at the Grand Hyatt Goa have been successful so far and there is no sign of the excitement abating. With different varieties of local products on offer, it’s really a win-win situation for all involved, including the consumer.

W O‘GOA

121

122

GOA & BEYOND - SOUTH AFRICA

South Africa’s Scary Corner Winemaking in Nirvana

By Doug Singer

123

OLDENBURG

Oldenburg Vineyards 124

GOA & BEYOND - SOUTH AFRICA

ucked away in the mountains in an area known as Banghoek, in a small corner of Stellenbosch, is some of the finest terroir in South Africa. It is here that Adrian and Vanessa Vanderspuy, and the Oldenburg Vineyards team, are making some extraordinary wines.

T

Adrian Vanderspuy’s family first came to the Banghoek Valley (pronounced “bun hook” and meaning “scary corner” due to leopards roaming around in times past) in the early 1950’s shortly after arriving from India. His grandmother, Dorothy, who lived on the farm until passing away in 2009, remembered very fondly the first time she saw this magnificent area and how she was truly in awe of its striking beauty. It was here that she met Helmut Hohmann, who had recently arrived from Germany, and settled down at Ivy Knowe, which is now part of the Oldenburg estate.

At the time, the main body of Oldenburg was called Rondekop, named after the distinctive “Round Hill” that forms the centerpiece of the vineyard. Helmut was fortunate to be able to buy Rondekop when it was put up for auction in 1955 and renamed the farm after the small German town of Oldenburg, a nod to his roots.

In 1993 upon the death of Helmut, the estate was put into a trust. Unfortunately this led to a decade where the vineyards that were first planted in the 1960s on what was originally a fruit farm, went into a decline. It was in 2003 when Adrian Vanderspuy decided that the time had come to bring the Oldenburg Vineyards back to life. Vanderspuy had been born on an adjacent property, but left a turbulent South Africa in 1967. He would return

125

to the Cape almost every year for Christmas and always found the beauty of the valley captivating. It was his vision of capturing Oldenburg’s enormous potential of producing high quality wines that brought him back to his homeland and with the vineyards in a poor state, the decision was made to completely replant, creating an opportunity to leverage the terroir by adopting modern viticulture practices.

With awe-inspiring views, and a truly unique setting, Oldenburg now handcrafts small quantities of both red and white wines, using only grapes grown on this stunning estate which was one of the first to plant vineyards in Banghoek. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, plus a few blending varietals are lovingly nurtured to their fullest expression prior to filling the bottles of what is a truly fine brand.

In 2007, their maiden vintages were produced and despite being young, showed great potential.

This exceptional terroir delivers the perfect basis for these wines, which is why the winemakers treat this intimate property with the respect and gentle cultivation methods that it deserves. Each harvest is done 100% by hand in order to optimally select the grapes. No heavy machines strain the slopes and the grapes arrive in the modern cellar of Oldenburg in pristine condition and carefully pre-selected.

The focus of this winery is firmly on quality over quantity and has been the recipient of many awards since its first vintage was sold in 2010. Both the 2011 Chenin Blanc and the 2009 Cabernet Franc were included in the Top 100 South African Wines list. Additionally, 4-star platter ratings have 126

been granted to their 2009 and 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon as well as an IWC Gold rating for their 2010 Chenin Blanc.

When visiting the estate, it is a true treat to relax in the beautiful tasting room designed by celebrated architect Simon Beerstecher. Here you will enjoy uninterrupted views of the vineyards and can wile away your afternoon while tasting fine wines and delectable cheeses.

For an extraordinary experience, spend the night at The vineyard’s original Homestead. Dating back over 200 years, this is the original family home of Oldenburg Vineyards. It has been fully renovated and modernized, while still retaining the history, architecture and charm of the Cape Dutch aesthetic.

The Homestead and gardens are nestled amongst Oldenburg’s spectacular vineyards and surrounded by picturesque mountains on all sides. This is truly a serene, private and exclusive environment, with a large private garden and magnificent mountain and vineyard views.

The double-story house offers all of the modern conveniences at a 5-star level and can accommodate up to 12 people in 6 bedrooms. Two large covered outdoor entertaining areas and a large gated pool within the gardens puts the finishing touch on what is an experience to remember.

For the epicurious, Oldenburg Vineyards is situated within striking distance of some of South Africa’s finest restaurants and the charming university town of Stellenbosch is within easy reach. Oldenburg is truly a slice of South Africa’s wine history and a location to be set amongst your bucket list.

127

128

GOA & BEYOND - LONDON

129

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

130

GOA & BEYOND - LONDON

Staying and Dining at… Corinthia Hotel London Corinthia Hotel London, a Victorian Grande Dame hotel located in the heart of the city, is rated amongst London’s finest 5-star luxury hotels. Combining traditional grandeur with modern freshness, the luxuriously redesigned Victorian destination is ideally located in the heart of London, a short walk from many of the city’s major attractions.

Dating from 1885, the building spent fifty years as the prestigious Hôtel Métropole, before it was taken over by the Government in 1936 and used as Ministry of Defence offices. The magnificent architecture has been expertly restored and brought vividly back to life with contemporary design, the highest quality materials and fittings and wonderful interiors.

“Corinthia London is an intricately restored grand hotel with a 21st century approach,” says General Manager Renaud Gregoire. “Its modern elegance is defined by a blend of classic Victorian architecture with outstanding craftsmanship and contemporary art, mirroring the energy, style and history of the area.

Guests are offered all the modern luxuries whilst enjoying an authentic experience in a hotel and location with heritage.”

131

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

Corinthia Hotels’ flagship hotel features two world-class restaurants and a bar. Garry Hollihead, winner of Michelin stars at three different establishments, is at the helm of The Northall. The restaurant celebrates the best of British artisanal produce, including Cumbrian short horn cattle, together with an extensive selection of organic and biodynamic wines by the glass and by the bottle. The hotel also serves modern Italian cuisine at Massimo Restaurant. Bassoon, the musically inspired bar designed by the award-winning David Collins Studio, serves both molecular cocktails and colonial inspired drinks from its boutique spirits library.

The heartbeat of the hotel is its Lobby Lounge. The space offers a residential feel enhanced by an eclectic mix of furniture and bespoke artworks. The soaring dome in the centre is adorned with the pioneering Full Moon chandelier created by Parisian designer Chafik Gasmi and produced by Baccarat, the prestigious French crystal manufacturer. The Full Moon, composed of 1,001 crystal baubles, is the grand focal point of the main hotel area.

January 2015, Corinthia London is set to launch the first-ever David Collins Studio designed outdoor space, at the centre of this Grande Dame hotel. The mosaic-embellished Garden Lounge will showcase an expertly-stocked Humidor and spirits menu, with all-day and -evening dining.

132

GOA & BEYOND WO’COURIOUS - LONDON

133

CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON

134

GOA & BEYOND - LONDON

‘The Seven Penthouses of Corinthia London’ are a spectacular collection of exclusive two-storey penthouse hotel suites, heralding a new era of luxury accommodation for the city. The opulent guest residences are built within the soaring turrets of the grand Victorian building, each with its distinct style and unique hand-crafted bespoke finishes and furniture. The penthouses are themed around personalities typically found living in an affluent London street – royalty, high society, explorers, actors, musicians, writers and politicians.

The hotel also holds 294 guest rooms, including 47 suites. The sumptuously appointed rooms, averaging 45m², are among the largest in their category in London’s luxury hotel market. With no restrictions on check-in and check-out times, Corinthia Hotel London has dedicated itself to providing guests ultimate flexibility, convenience and comfort during their stay. All rooms feature the best in luxury, including exquisite marble bathrooms with underfloor heating, separate tropical rain shower and a deep bathtub with builtin LED TV, and luxurious bathing products from ESPA. All guests are also granted 24–hour access to our state-of-the-art fitness centre at ESPA Life at Corinthia.

Corinthia London further offers its guests a range of exciting partnerships. In response to international demand for the Downton Abbey factor, the hotel offers day trips to the nearest equivalent in nearby West Sussex - The Petworth Estate.

Launched in May 2014, Corinthia London will continue to offer the ‘Sumptuous Sleep Retreat’ and champion this all important cause.

The Sleep Retreat combines 5-star luxury with medical, physical and nutritional expertise. Developed in partnership with medicallytrained nutritional therapist Jeannette Hyde and sleep expert Dr Guy Meadows, this is a response to research and guest feedback indicating that a great night’s sleep is the new ultimate luxury.

W O‘GOA

135

Four Seasons Bora Bora

136

GOA & BEYOND - FRENCH POLYNESIA

137

FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

Four Seasons Bora Bora As your flight descends into Bora Bora, you are treated to a spectacular view of the entire island and the famed Mount Otemanu. The first glimpse is simply amazing… and then you land. This is when you will be searching for new adjectives to aptly describe what is surely one of the most beautiful places on the planet.

Recently awarded the title of “the best island in the world” by U.S. News, Bora Bora has a reputation that precedes itself. Four Seasons resort stands firmly at the helm of this tropical paradise and their iconic presence is celebrated worldwide. Surrounded by sandfringed islets on an outer coral reef that enclose a turquoise lagoon, this is a location that will stay at the top of your vacation memories for a lifetime. It is no wonder that Travelers’ Choice 2014 awarded it 138

GOA & BEYOND - FRENCH POLYNESIA

139

FOUR SEASONS BORA BORA

#1 in the Top 25 Luxury Hotels in the South Pacific.

One of the Leeward group of the Society Islands of French Polynesia in the south Pacific, Bora Bora was first discovered by British explorer, Captain James Cook in 1770. In the center of the island lies the remnants of an extinct volcano rising to two peaks, with the highest reaching 2,385 feet. The thing that seems to capture the heart and soul of all who grace her shores, is the stunningly beautiful lagoon and coral reef (motu) that completely surround this slice of paradise.

140

GOA & BEYOND - FRENCH POLYNESIA

Comprised of 100 over-water bungalows, outfitted with opulent and thoughtful touches, Four Seasons Bora Bora is a must visit. For the foodie, you are sure to be satisfied in one of the four restaurants, in-bungalow dining, or even a romantic candlelight dinner on the beach. If it is utter relaxation and soul-cleansing you crave, the Resort Spa, nestled at the lagoon edge, offers signature holistic treatments.

Imagine sinking your toes into white-sand beaches, stopping for a dip in a crystal-clear lagoon, and sipping champagne while gazing at an expanse of shimmering stars— Four Seasons Resort Bora Bora will deliver those daydreams and more. Add to that year round temperatures that rival any tropical island on earth and you have a worldclass vacation.

The recipient of countless awards and platitudes, this is certainly one of the most celebrated tropical getaways anywhere and after visiting for yourself, you will know exactly why.

141

142

GOA & BEYOND - MACAU

Hotel Lisboa Macau’s Finest Situated on the island’s most important street, Avenue D’Almeida Ribiero, and widely acclaimed as offering the perfect mix of traditional hospitality and modern facilities, the Hotel Lisboa is a wellknown landmark of Macau. Located in the Central Business District, 15 minutes from the Macau International Airport and five minutes from the Macau Maritime Ferry Terminal, the Hotel Lisboa’s unrivaled central location offers total convenience for both traveling business executives and those on holiday.

Known for its distinctive architectural design showcasing a lavish blend of Portuguese and Chinese décor, with dazzling chandeliers and glittering mosaics, the hotel is an icon set within the heart of Macau. Art enthusiasts will most certainly be extremely impressed as the hotel also showcases Dr. Stanley Ho’s extensive private collection of priceless art pieces.

This beautiful landmark hotel set in the heart of Macau, is a testament to extraordinary elegance.

With its distinctive location, 15 acclaimed restaurants and 24-hour entertainment, the Lisboa has truly earned its reputation as one of Asia’s finest casino hotels. You will find easy access to the city’s prime tourist attractions, as well as direct indoor access to the legendary casino.

One thing that is known worldwide, is the impeccable service of the staff at Hotel Lisboa and their commitment to delivering a luxury experience to their guests. This is a five-star affair from the moment you cross their threshold and everything about it speaks to that. From the elaborate marble studded lobby, to the extremely well appointed rooms, this is an opulent experience at every turn.

143

HOTEL LISBOA

144

GOA & BEYOND - MACAU

The Hotel Lisboa is a city within a city—full of excitement and fun. Built in 1970, this is one of the most famous hotels in Macau, but convenience is at the heart of your stay. With over 2,000 rooms and luxurious suites specially designed for your total relaxation and equipped with modern in-room facilities, you’ll be amazed by the wide selection of options available. Regal and luxurious, all rooms, from the standard to the Presidential Suite have been refurbished and are decorated with richcolored fabrics and handcrafted furniture, offering modern comfort and seamless convenience. The luxury is not left in the bedroom. Modern bathroom settings in each room also await you with mosaic pattern flooring, glass and marble wall panels, and a massage shower. Most rooms also offer the added bonus of a magnificent view of the South China Sea and major landmarks in Macau.

If gambling is what you love, than you will surely be in heaven at Hotel Lisbon’s Casino Lisboa. Built in late 1960s. This is one of the most famous hotel casinos in Macau and will surely be a highlight of your stay.

The Hotel Lisboa remains one of the most interesting hotels in Macau. Its spectacular allure is directly connected to its authentically superior design and decor, as well as to its top tier level of service for travelers “in-the-know.” Couple that with the large assortment of art, antiques and jade displayed throughout the hotel and you have a property that will keep you coming back time after time and will rest atop your list of worldwide favorites.

Hotel Lisboa has also stepped up their game when it comes to the process of booking online and ease of use. Boasting the title of 2014 Winner, Online Travel Services – Travel Weekly Magellan Awards was just another feather in the cap of this iconic hotel and one more reason to step into an experience like no other. Hotel Lisbon will certainly leave an indelible impression.

W O‘GOA

145

ARCTIC SNOWHOTEL ICE HOTEL ROVANIEMI, - ROVANIEMI, FINLAND FINLAND

146

GOA & BEYOND - HAWAII

Hawaii’s Sparkling Gem Four Seasons Resorts in Lana’i

147

FOUR SEASONS LANA’I

Voted one of Travel+Leisure readers’ Best Beach Hotels, Four Seasons Lana’i at Manele Bay boasts endless opportunities for fun in the sun and seamlessly delivers the expected levels of opulence and quality for which Four Seasons is so well known.

The sixth-largest of the Hawaiian Islands and the smallest publicly accessible and inhabited island in the chain, Lana’i is also known as Pineapple Island because in 1922 James Dole turned it into an island-wide pineapple plantation that eventually grew three quarters of the world’s pineapples.

The plantation closed in the 1980s, and the island has since emerged as one of the world’s most idyllic vacation destinations on the planet.

Four Seasons’ secluded retreat on Lana’i, an island now owned by Oracle founder, Larry Ellison, is located just nine miles off of the coast of Maui. This unique resort provides both ocean and highlands landscapes in two exquisite resorts and balances a sense of tranquility with an abundance of recreational activities.

Four Seasons Resort Lana’i at Manele Bay boasts expansive facilities, superb local dining and professional services designed to ensure that your tropical getaway exceeds your every expectation. At Four Seasons’ The Lodge at Koele, you can immerse yourself in the enchanting hillside getaway’s lush, meandering gardens, world-class golf, outdoor activities, and an uncompromising style and comfort. Many guests spend time at both which are outfitted with 220 spacious and luxurious guest rooms and suites.

The dining scene is alive and well with outstanding options including the cliffside Views restaurant; One Forty, an oceanview American steakhouse and Hawaiian seafood restaurant; Nobu Lana’i and the Sports Bar for casual dining.

148

GOA & BEYOND - HAWAII

149

FOUR SEASONS LANA’I

These tropical surroundings are the ideal backdrop for whale watching, golfing, hiking, horseback riding, four-wheeling, exploring the red spires of the Garden of the Gods and swimming in Hulopoe Bay.The waters of Hulopoe Bay are a protected marine preserve rife with beautiful, virtually undisturbed coral reefs offering pristine spots for snorkeling and diving. Spinner dolphins and colorful reef fish are frequently seen close to the shoreline, and humpback whales often make an appearance during the winter months.

You will want to sink your toes into the white sand on many of the beaches including Shipwreck Beach for those with a bit of the pirate spirit, where you can comb the shores for exotic treasures For the sportsman, learn to surf in the shallow, inviting waters of Lopa Beach. If it is privacy that you crave, Polihua Beach, accessible only with a 4X4, offers the ultimate in privacy, stretches two miles and is a favorite of guests wanting an absolute getaway.

For those seeking a bit more of the outdoors, the varied landscape of Lana’i offers a vast array of activities for the adventurous. Surf safaris to catch the perfect wave, island hopping by ocean kayak, scuba diving in pristine waters, 4x4 off-roading across rugged terrain, exhilarating archery and clay shooting—there’s always something to quicken your pulse and send your spirit soaring. During the season, within five minutes of the resort, you can observe the calving and breeding grounds for hundreds of migrating humpback whales, or enjoy the trendy new sport of stand-up paddling, Hawaii’s fastest-growing action

150

GOA & BEYOND - HAWAII

sport which combines the dexterity of surfing with the discipline of paddling—this easily mastered sport is an ideal aerobic workout.

If it is a bit of a cultural experience that makes you smile, the rich history of Lana’i and the other Hawaiian Islands will certainly fulfill that desire. Through Four Seasons’ innovative cultural programs, you’ll learn about traditional practices such as the hula, lei making, coconut weaving, ukulele, art and oral traditions.

It’s an ideal way to more fully understand the remarkable heritage of this tropical paradise. Or why not head out on an excursion to Kaunolu Village? Established in the 15th century, this ancient and now abandoned Hawaiian fishing village is so steeped in history, it has been declared a National Historic Landmark. If this is the type of thing that makes for a memorable vacation, a must see is also the ancient petroglyphs. A mystery to historians and archaeologists, these ancient drawings and markings carved into rocks and old lava flows can be found on Lana’i near Shipwreck Beach and Manele Bay. One of Lana’i’s most recognizable landmarks, Sweetheart Rock, has long been associated with the legend of a beautiful princess who died after being confined to a sea cave by a young warrior. After burying the princess in a tomb still visible at the summit of the rock, the warrior is said to have leapt to his death.

With such a rich history, and such spectacular surroundings, it is no wonder that Four Seasons Lana’i is so highly regarded and awarded. This is truly one of Hawaii’s shining gems.

151

EN-ROUTE WORLD CAFÉ

The World on A Plate Perched just off the highway at Bambolim, En-Route World Café is one of those places you could come back to time and again simply for the quality of its food. It’s true that the ambience is top notch too, but who has ever refused a meal that was off the charts?

There’s ample parking space and the restaurant itself is roomy, with minimalist, chic décor and comfortable seating. En-Route World Café is ideal for dates, business meals and get-togethers with friends. The staff is friendly and well versed with the extensive menu that is filled with delicious offerings from the world over.

The restaurant has managed a perfect blend of all-time classics and beautiful fusion dishes. From single dish meals to a three-course fare, the chefs make sure you leave satisfied. It mixes up vegetarian and non-vegetarian food to cater to varied tastes.

Among the soups, the Fennel Soup and Beef Soup stand out as interesting appetisers, but the Lobster Bisque is the restaurant’s specialty. Infused with French cognac, it brings out the light sweet taste of the crustacean.

En-Route World Café has a variety of salads that serve as excellent options for those looking to eat light. It has mixed the regular Caesar Salad and Tuna Salad offerings against the more offbeat pesto-flavoured Caprese and Greque with its crumbled feta, walnut and arugula.

Straight out of France comes a fondue of deliciously molten cheese served with pesto croutons, and a spicy jalapeno variant with vegetables, chicken or seafood.

True to its name, En-Route spans the world with its entrees. From Crispy Chicken with schezwan sauce, 152

WO’GOA

Indonesian Satay, Prawn Tempura and wantons of Asia; to the European-inspired Chicken Blanco doused in white wine, classic Fish and Chips, Ox Tongue in red wine and garlic sauce, Bruschetta and Mushroom Agli Olio; to Bacon Wrapped Shrimp and Zesty Baked Potatoes one could expect in the Americas.

The pastas are certainly not to be missed, with offerings including fettuccine, fusilli, spaghetti, lasagne, ravioli, consigli and penne done a variety of different ways, from creamy sauces to light pestos. Brightly coloured vegetables speak for themselves among the heavier proteins.

Delicious pizzas and risotto with authentic Arborio rice also make the menu, with the Goan Sausage Pizza a perfect option for those who don’t want to let go of the taste of home.

A beautiful array of sides such as fresh grilled vegetables, rice, eggplant fries with horseradish ranch dressing and potato wedges are available.

Interesting choices would be the creamiest mashed potatoes available this side of town and sweet potato fries.

There’s a section on the menu quite aptly named Headliners. Opt for sea bass, duck, salmon or turkey cooked with truly innovative recipes. A number of sizzlers served with herbed rice and grilled vegetables are also an option.

Even after all of this, there’s a whole section more filled with such delights as Lobster Thermidor, Brazilian Tenderloin, Beef Hoisin, Jambalaya with Goan sausage and Pad Thai. What’s definitely not to be missed is the En-Route Special Stuffed Chicken overflowing with ricotta cheese, spinach and olives; and the succulent pork ribs that has everyone talking.

With great service and expertly cooked dishes, the restaurant is definitely one for the books.

153

BABA AU RHUM

Baba au Rhum Its 8.30am and the first spaced-out causalities after night of intense partying in North Goa have begun their search for breakfast. Those that know they will wind their way toward a small but famous French cafe tucked away in a hidden Goan village. They will arrive at a space bustling with activity, fragrant with the aroma of fresh-baked croissants, Italianstyle coffee and the promise of good food.

Baba au Rhum, poetically named after the 1835 rum-infused French dessert, caters to lovers of life and lovers of food. The cafe-restaurant, created nearly eight years ago by Dayini Feraud and Leo Michaud in the tiny, nearly-impossible-to-find village of Arpora, has transformed the space into the go-to place to eat in Goa. But that was then. This year Baba au Rhum has exploded out of its tiny rural setting into two new eateries - a cafe near Starco Junction that is a mini outlet for all the goodies. And a bigger restaurant in Anjuna, called appropriately, Baba au Rhum Jungle Bar. It is located on the back road from Baga to Anjuna, nuzzled under the trees with an amazing lush rice field view.

Over the years Baba au Rhum has developed a following amongst locals and Bombay celebrities alike. They all come for the atmosphere, the music and most of all for the food. Food made with love and all the painstaking attention to detail that characterises French cuisine (their salads, for example, are made with organic lettuce, washed in filtered water for god’s sake and then spun dry, but then this is normal in France).

It’s not fancy, it’s just delicious in a way that you had forgotten delicious could be. The croissants are to die for. No joke. There’s no way you’ll summon the will-power to resist the aroma of their croissants.

The smell catches you off-guard, it touches you in places beyond your capacity to refuse. And the 154

WO’GOA

taste, Soft yet crunchy, ever so slightly sweet (but not too much) and buttery with just a touch of salt.

And that’s just the beginning, the restaurant serves up easily the best burger you’re ever eaten, exquisite French quiches, delicious sandwiches on their own home-baked baguette, wonderful fresh fruit juices and omelettes of all kinds. Their cappuccinos are steamed on a vintage Italian coffee machine using organic coffee and fresh milk. Perfect for breakfast with their house fruit salad and granola muesli.

And if you’re looking for dinner, they make Italianbeating pizza (that’s why the Italians love it so much) in a traditional wood-fired stone oven with flames and everything.

The cafe also features a specialist in-house patissier, trained in the art of cakes and exotic French delicacies, such as cream-filled chocolate éclairs, chocolate-passion fruit tarts, fresh strawberry tarts, lemon tarts and more. The cakes have proven popular with the birthday crowd and the cafe often caters to large parties in the area with French delicacies, pizza and other made-to-order requests.

While the cafe started out as just a little French bakery serving croissants and baguettes to a few tables, today it supplies fresh bread, croissants and cakes to local shops and supermarkets on a daily basis. The restaurant has received a series of glowing reviews in the Indian and international media and has been featured in the BBC Good Food Guide and CNN Travel “Got the Munchies in Goa? Where the experts eats’ to name few. So if you’re a lover of good food and the good life, and you’re looking for somewhere new to eat, check out Baba au Rhum’s two new spaces. Who knows, maybe you’ll find yourself there one morning, hungry, with stars in your eyes and looking for some really good food.

155

156

SUNSET CRUISE | DINNER CRUISE | MIDNIGHT CRUISE

Only

AED

250 per person

P. O. Box 126012, Dubai, UAE res@xclusivecruise.com www.xclusivecruise.com Like us on & win! facebook.com/xclusivecruise

Call now to book your Xclusive experience

04 457 3185 157 53

METROPOLITAN R E P O R T

a connoisseur’s guide to the good life

www.metropolitanreport.com

158