WO’GOA something is always brewing…October 2014 Issue by WG Magazines

‘ W GOA O

OCTOBER 2014

something is always brewing

DIPNA ANAND

Glamour & Spice

SURBHI SHANI

New York’s renowned Pastry Chef

RATNA SINGH

The jungle girl tracking tigers

Chef Saulo Bacchilega

Endorsing authentic Italian cuisine

SUMERA BLAHHA

Combines flavor profiles and textures

Traversing the Peruvian Coastline

G O A www.wogoa.in

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Baron Wolman

‘ W GOA O P R E S E N T S

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Baron Wolman will be on hand to celebrate the opening of his debut show in Goa, India. In addition to the opening, Baron will be signing his latest books, Every Picture Tells a Story - Baron Wolman - The Rolling Stone Years & WOODSTOCK To reserve a copy of Baron’s books (due to limited quantity) please call +91 832 246 3234 or E-mail sales@wogoa.in Sponsorship Opportunities: e-mail:sponsorship@wogoa.in For further details contact: e-mail: sales@wogoa.in

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Editor Fabian deCastro Travel Editor Doug Singer Feature Editor Vijaya Pais Photography Consultant Datta Gawade Editorial Consultant Teotonio R. de Souza Culinary Consultant Andrzej Andy Zyla Contributors Jasmine Chopra Heidi Fuller-Love Photographers Jasmine Chopra Datta Gawade Rohan Mayenkar Heidi Fuller-Love Creative Design Studio FJM design Publisher

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WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in © IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WO’GOA™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. © 2014 WO’GOA™ All rights reserved.

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‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

In this exciting issue, the team at WO’GOA will feature the colorful world of Chef Dipna Anand - the dynamic and celebrated culinary dynamo from London, who has been honored by not only presenting her cuisine for Prince Charles and Camilla Bowles, but can lay claim to edifying the iconic Gordon Ramsay on the proper way to prepare a traditional curry. Her stellar reputation has been elevated by accolades from a wide array of celebrities and people of high esteem at her renowned family restaurant. Her recent book “Beyond Brilliant,” is seemingly just that and we will go deeper as we get up close and personal with this epicurean dynamo. Get up close and personal with New York’s renowned Executive Pastry Chef Surbhi Sahni, who is widely known for her ethereal Mango Cheesecake as she plays with flavors and textures to create sweet and savory deserts that are delicate on the palate and pleasing to the senses - a unique perspective of modern Indian cuisine. We will journey afar and will plunge into history as author Selma Carvalho takes us on one of his inspired and educational journeys following the first Goan to travel to East Africa in 1865, where he famously founded the best retail store in Zanzibar. Not all will require a passport to explore the jewels of this issue, as we will experience the dining and hospitality of stays at Dubai’s Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah. Additionally, we will partake in a candid interview with Executive Chef Saulo Baccheilega of Park Hyatt Goa, Sumera Bhalla, who combines flavour profiles and textures from various cuisines at I-95 and travel from Florida to Fontainhas with Christopher Bee. It seems to be a global understanding, that in order to properly experience a safari, one must travel to the continent of Africa. We will shatter this myth by bringing you India’s own Taj Safaris and colorfully detailing the available experiences at Pashan Garh and Mahua Kothi Wilderness Lodge. Finally, I will make my personal debut as Travel Editor by taking you on a journey along the Peruvian coast of the Pan American highway - a network of roads measuring approximately 48,000 kilometres. The snapshot of this epic roadway will explore Peru’s compelling cultural history including their cuisine, inimitable hospitality and the seemingly endless passion for the art of Pisco, Peru’s celebrated national spirit. Something Is Always Brewing… enjoy! Doug Singer Travel Editor 11

CONTENTS

Dipna Anand - the celebrity curry chef

Surbhi Sanhi - New York’s renowned Pastry Chef

Saulo Baccheilega - endorsing authentic Italian cuisine

Sumera Bhalla - combining flavor profiles and textures

Christopher Bee - Florida to Fontainhas

The first Goan to travel to East Africa

The Reis Magos legacy

Ratna Singh - the jungle girl

Traversing the Peruvian Coastline

Goa & Beyond - Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah

Goa & Beyond - Taj Safaris

100

Goa & Beyond - Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers

106

Goa & Beyond - Dining Out at Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah

124

Grand Hyatt Goa - the best 5 Star Resort Hotel

126

Milind Kamat - Goa’s Heritage through Philately

130

Waters Beach Lounge & Grill, Goa

134

GO GOA

136

Signature Dishes - with Shane Ó Néill, Saulo Baccheilega & Nicole Illa

146

Dining Out in Goa

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; GOA W O â&#x201E;˘

something is always brewing

sunset at the crocodile inhabited waters of Satpura cover image credit Ratna Singh 13

contributors

Heudi Fuller-Love - From food reviewer for Asia Life in Cambodia, to trainee gaucho on a farm in Argentina, food, travel and lifestyle writer/photographer Doug Singer is a prolific Luxury Heidi Fuller-love regularly Lifestyle writer and entrepreneur contributes to 68+ publications whose body of work includes and travels the world for her being the founder of Daily Food award-winning city/country & Wine, Metropolitan Report guide show for British Airways and Urban Billionaire, as well inflight radio. A regular visitor as Travel Editor for the ultra- to Goa, Heidi Fuller-love has exclusive Jetset Magazine. penned guides to the region for With a significant entrepreneurial Trip Advisor and several other background that includes owning publications. five different companies spanning three countries, his knowledge base is considerable. Doug’s recent work includes being a prolific food writer, co-authoring a cookbook with a prominent celebrity chef of Indian origin, an on-camera spokesman for interviews with Sony TV, FOX News, and M.C. for a wide array of culinary events and competitions. This along with traveling the world in search of the finest accommodations and Teotonio R. de Souza - An Indoexperiences for his readership Portuguese historian, researcher and columnist. Fellow of the keeps him rather busy. Portuguese Academy of History As the CEO of Singer Media and Sociedade de Geografia de and Consulting, he leverages Lisboa. Founder-Director of the many of his own publications Xavier Centre of Historical Research in developing opportunities (1979-1994). Head and Chair, and awareness for emerging Dept. of History, Universidade companies within the categories Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisboa (since 1996). in which his expertise lies. 14

Jasmine Chopra - Mumbai born, Goa raised, Konkani speaking Anglo-Indian Jasmine returned to India after 10 years in the UK pursuing her studies in Tourism. During her time in the UK she developed a flair for writing and photography. Her passion took her deep into the indigenous rainforest of Costa Rica on community work. She divides her time between England, France and India but Goa, according to her is where the roots are.

Chef Andrzej Andy Zyla is the Executive Sous Chef of DAMAC Hotels & Resorts Mgt LLC, Andy’s cuisine is simple and delicate which he shares with WO’GOA readers. Andy has applied his culinary expertises at hotels such as: Chelsea Arts Club in London, Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas, Maldives, Earl Spenser, London, The Address Montgomerie in Dubai, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts, Palm Jumeirah Dubai and Watatsumi at Le Méridien Mina Seyahi.

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elebrity Chef Dipna Anand makes her mark on the food world with her touch of glamour and a lot of spice! Dipna is on a mission to prove that Indian food can be tasty and good at the same time, she has received the British Curry Award

which was announced by Prime Minister David Cameron for recognition and contribution to the industry and the National Award from the British Nutrition Foundation. With her busy schedules, Dipna makes time to speak with WO’GOA, so let’s curry on!

WO’GOA: Dipna’s culinary journey! Where and When did this start?

the celebrity curry chef is set to be the woman to transform the perception of Indian food as going hand-inhand with healthy food... WO’GOA Publisher

Dipna Anand: Having been born and brought up in a family of restaurateurs and chefs, it’s fair to say I have cooking in my blood. Our restaurant in Southall, called The Brilliant which has been open for 40 years has a strong reputation and Brilliant is now a brand which is recognized internationally, especially after we were voted as one of Ramsay’s Best Restaurant for his Channel 4 series. The restaurant specializes in Punjabi cooking with a Kenyan slant. Most of the recipes on the menu date back to 1950 and were created by my grandfather when the first Brilliant Restaurant opened in Nairobi, Kenya. The Brilliant is in its third generation, there is a story behind the Brilliant Legacy and I feel it’s my duty to carry that legacy on. From a young age, I took a keen interest in cooking and was continually watching over mum in the kitchen and then when I went to the restaurant I was intrigued to watch my dad cooking in the kitchen and he would tell me the stories about Granddad and how he used to cook for the Maharajas back in Kenya in the 1950’s. As I grew up I became even more interested and developed a deep passion for the industry and knew that this is what I wanted to pursue as a career, I saw my dad as my inspiration and feel my success is due to him, up until today I tell people ‘I want to be just like my dad’. Thus watching my father and going to the restaurant as a child brought out the chef in me and I went on to do Food Technology at A ‘Level, at which point I won a National Award for my low fat Indian food 17

project for the subject, this was the start of many new chapters in my life. I was in the newspapers, on TV and the restaurant gained even more publicity as I added healthy options to our menu. These proved extremely popular. I then pursued a degree in the subject of Hospitality and Catering with Food studies at The University of West London where I achieved First Class Honours and was offered a Masters Scholarship in Catering which I also went on to do. Whilst I was doing my masters I was offered a position at the same university as a chef lecturer and up until today I still carry out the teaching, specializing in Indian cooking. I also have my own cookery school which I run from the restaurant and my courses are not only informative but fun and exciting for the candidates at the same time. I love working with my family in the restaurant business and meeting customers and generally just the whole environment of working in this buzzing hospitality industry. My new cook-book titled ‘Beyond Brilliant’ which I launched 3 months ago has gained immense publicity and increased my profile even further. I also carry out pop up chef events and am frequently asked to carry out demos. My future aim is to teach the nation how to cook ‘real’ Indian food with my own TV cookery show. WO’GOA: What was your first reaction to have Gordon Ramsay in your Kitchen and can you share with us some of those moments of the 12 hours that Gordon Ramsay was slaving over the clay oven? Dipna Anand: I was contacted by one of the producers on the show who I had worked with on another series before and she said Gordon Ramsay would love to come and learn how to cook Tandoori Foods and what better place to learn than from the chefs at The Brilliant. When Gordon entered our kitchen, the first thing he said was ‘wow this is really organized, just like my kitchen’ and to hear that from such a great chef is a big compliment.

‘that was phenomenal, I am burnt with blisters on my hands but that’s proper authentic Indian cooking and it’s great to see as it comes from the heart’

When our chefs Sunil and Jas started training Gordon on the clay oven, he found it a little difficult at first to master it. Naturally he would find it a little hard to start working on the Tandoor station because Gordon Ramsay

if you have never used a clay oven before, it can be a very challenging task to start with. The heat of the clay oven heat can reach up to 400˚C, this itself is challenging and then to keep up with the orders and make everything fresh is not easy. So Gordon struggled to begin with, that includes skewering the seekh kebabs, chicken tikka, tandoori salmon and paneer and also making the actual naan breads. Gordon dropped quite a few of the breads into the clay oven to start with and also dropped some of the skewered dishes when he was taking the food off from the burning hot skewers. However, at the end of the 12 hours he spent with us Gordon became an expert of the clay oven and was coping well with the orders that the Head chef was calling out to him. He was rolling and putting in 6-8 naan breads at one time and skewering at the same time, so he did justice at the end of his shift. He left with blisters down his arm and appreciated how hard a Tandoori chef has to work and how tough that station in the kitchen is. He left saying ‘that was phenomenal, I am burnt with blisters on my hands but that’s proper authentic Indian cooking and it’s great to see as it comes from the heart’ and I think that last sentence sums up our cooking style which truly comes from the heart. Gordon did us proud and we are always happy to be on his shows, whether it was the cook-along or Ramsay’s Best Restaurant, we look forward to working with him again.

Gulu Anand (Dipna’s father), Dipna, Shanker (Dipna’s brother) and Gordon Ramsay.

Gordon Ramsay spent 12 hours at the Brilliant Restaurant, mastered the Indian Naan Bread, the Tandoor Clay Oven...

WO’GOA: Authentic North Indian Punjabi cuisine with an emphasis on healthy ingredients - could you please explain this low fat cooking technique and does it compromise of taste and quality? Dipna Anand: People sometimes have a preconception that Indian food is always unhealthy, greasy, oily and fattening but I am out to change that. Indian food does not have to be unhealthy, it depends on how you cook it, what cooking methods you use and how you spice it. I am not saying eliminate all the fat used in the dish, I believe you slightly adapt some of the ingredients to make the same dish a ‘healthier alternative’.

His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales - Prince Charles leaving the Brilliant Restaurant

Dipna showing the Duchess of Cornwall around the Brilliant restaurant 20

Tandoori cooking is a great way to cook as when you barbeque the food in the clay oven, any excessive fats tend to drip off. When I am making a curry, I try not to use saturated fat if I can help it. I use vegetable oils such as rapeseed and corn oil in place of butter and ghee, although I understand that ghee is nutritionally good for you too. It’s about using ingredients in moderation also, for example if a recipe for chicken masala says 50g butter, instead you could use 20g and add a few extra spices for more flavour. Our Indian spices are great, not only full of flavour but they also have numerous health benefits and medicinal properties, we need to make use of these. Other ways to make food healthier - for example is to substitute ingredients such as cream for low fat yoghurt or crème fraiche choices and use leaner cuts of meat when possible. WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Dipna Anand: Techniques are important to perfect food quality, if your techniques are not right then your dish will not be right. Creativity is important because you have to move with the time and be that bit ahead, that little bit can make all the difference. Once you combine the perfect technique with unique creativity, that’s when you get success, thus creativity and technique are just as important. WO’GOA: What was your first reaction when you heard that Prince Charles was coming to Brilliant and surely mixing your delicate Indian flavors won the heart of Prince Charles? What was the secret of this Brilliance?

‘Ramsay’s Best Restaurant’ The British Curry Award for ‘Best Indian Restaurant in London suburbs’ for 4 consecutive years

When I first heard that Prince Charles was coming to the restaurant I was over the moon. He had been to the restaurant in the 70’s when the restaurant opened but obviously at that time I was not around to meet him. So when I found out he would be visiting the Brilliant again I was overjoyed. He knew of The Brilliant and its reputation and that in itself is a huge thing. When he arrived we gave him and The Duchess a tour of the kitchen. He saw foods being cooked in the clay oven and tried them as they came out piping hot. He was intrigued with tandoori cooking and I still remember when he tasted the naan bread fresh out of the clay oven his 21

reaction was priceless, he said it was delicious, at that point the Duchess also wanted to try. His Royal Highness thoroughly enjoyed the food we served and praised us on our success and achievements. This was not only inspirational to hear but it has since motivated us to be even more Brilliant. It’s fair to say we now have the Royal seal of approval. The secret of the Brilliant is that it is family run and the recipes date back three generations. It is important to ensure any dish that leaves the kitchen meets the bosses (my father’s standards) or else it will not go out. WO’GOA: Recipient of the British Curry Awards, Best Restaurant by Gordon Ramsay, Award from The British Nutrition Foundation and Beyond Brilliant, how would you describe these achievements? Dipna Anand: I can only describe these achievements from my motivators, awards and achievements that keep me striving and aiming even higher. When we get awards such as this, it further inspires us and makes us feel as though we are doing something right and that the hard word is paying off. The feeling of such achievement is indescribable. WO’GOA: Beyond Brilliant is Inspired Indian Cooking, how did this book come about?

to take on the project as they believed in not only our brand but me and that was the start of Beyond Brilliant. It took me 6 months to write the book, quite a fast turnaround. I set myself a tight deadline as I wanted to ensure I get it done for July 2014. I worked tirelessly with the publishers to launch the book on time and used to stay awake until early hours of the morning working on the book. Finally we launched Beyond Brilliant as planned and it was an even bigger success than I had ever thought. I wanted to keep the word ‘Brilliant’ somewhere in the title of the book because at the end of the day my successes stem from our family business. The name ‘Brilliant Restaurant’ was thought of by my grandfather back in the 50’s and I wanted that to carry out and reflect in the book. The first book in the Anand family, could only be ‘Beyond Brilliant’. WO’GOA: What makes Beyond Brilliant different from the other curry books? Dipna Anand: In my life as a chef I have tried many recipes from books, magazines and even the Internet and sometimes some recipes do not work and other times they may work but do not look like the picture. Before writing my book I said to my dad, if I write this book, I want all of my recipes to work and when people try the recipe out, it should turn out exactly like what it looks like in the picture. I made sure each of my recipes was tested 6-8 times and also made the recipes user friendly by breaking down the ingredients so spices were in a separate box to the rest of the ingredients. Therefore no matter what recipe you try in the book, each works and the end result will be exactly as the image looks, I can vouch for that. That’s why Beyond Brilliant is so popular today and there is huge demand for it. I get emails and social media messages and pictures every day from customers who have purchased the book and they have made dishes of the recipes and sent pictures of the dishes which are spot on, I can truly say that this is not just a recipe book but a recipe book that works every single time.

Dipna Anand: It had always been my father’s dream that one day Dipna should write a recipe book. He has been saying it for the last ten years but I never really thought about it. However when I won the ‘Personality of the year award’ for inspiration at The British Curry Awards in 2013 that actually gave me a boost and I wanted to break the boundaries and that’s when I decided it’s time to get to work on my first cook-book. Another person who inspired me to write the book is my Professor at the University of West London, Professor David Foskett who calls me his ‘little star’ up until today. He always used to say that I will go a long way and those words up until today ring in my ears. Professor Foskett also said that my book launch would be at the university and one of the launches took place there. I met my publishers at an exhibition. RMC publishers agreed WO’GOA: Beyond Brilliant’s foreword, what did it

Dipna Anand and her family with Heston Blumenthal

mean to you when Heston Blumenthal agreed to write the foreword of your book? Dipna Anand: It is a huge honour that Heston agreed to write my foreword. Part of the reason my book is so Brilliant is due to Heston’s foreword which energized me to ensure my book was perfect. If Heston is praising my success and the success of The Brilliant I wanted to ensure this book was no less than amazing! WO’GOA: You captured Channel 4 audiences with Sunday Brunch, do we see a Dipna Anand Food Show? Dipna Anand: Sunday Brunch was amazing, the next day one of the newspaper headlines was ‘Dipna Anand had the nation’s taste buds tingling with her Indian Breads’ so yes people took it really well. My future aim is to teach the nation how to cook ‘real’ Indian food so yes a TV show is what I would like to do next. Whenever I get the right offer I will be well on my way I am sure. WO’GOA: What is Spice2Go, how did this come about and do you plan to go international with it? Dipna Anand: Spice2Go is an Indian fast food chain owned by Tej Randeva, a very successful businessman who had the dream of opening up an Indian fast food franchise business. For example when customers fancy a curry, they order online and within 30 minutes would be delivered a delicious Indian curry at the click of a button. There are two branches so far and eventually Tej wants to launch all over the UK. I was asked to come on board as the signature chef of the brand and revamp some of the dishes on the menu. So far I have developed two dishes for Spice2Go and in the future will hopefully be doing a few more. WO’GOA: Your launch of Brilliant Chutneys & Pickles - could you tell us more about it. 24

Dipna Anand: All of our pickles and chutneys are home-made and are my grandfather’s recipes. When customers dine at The Brilliant they indulge into these condiments with papadoms and they have always gone down as a real treat. We were often asked by customers if they could buy them or take them home. My brother who is very much involved with the restaurant works on the same concept of jarring up the products. They are now available to buy in jars, there are 5 different types, Mint Chutney, Tamarind Chutney, Mango Pickle, Lime Pickle and Carrot and Chilli Pickle. We also sell our own unique blend of home-made of Garam Masala with 15 spices. At the moment the products are available at the restaurant itself and in some local shops in Southall. However in the future we do hope to get these into the big supermarkets.

shopper and have recently featured in a BBC one documentary called Britain’s Compulsive Shoppers. I am not ashamed to admit I cannot control my shopping habit and when I am not in the kitchen, I am most likely to be at the shopping centre. Apart from that, I love spending time at home with my mum. I love Hindi films and try to watch movies whenever I have some spare time. I also love cricket, not just watching but also play, I play for Twickenham Ladies cricket team and although I am not a professional, I love playing the sport to keep fit and to also do something a little different once a week away from cooking. WO’GOA: What is your advice to young budding chefs?

Dipna Anand: If you have a passion for food, love WO’GOA: Would we see in the near future a Goan to cook and have that fire in your belly, chase your touch to your authentic North Indian curries? Goa dreams and you are sure to achieve. There is no is famous for its curries, could we see a flavor twist other career as rewarding as a chef’s career and when the food you cook makes someone smile, – A Goan fish curry with a North Indian flavor? that feeling is immeasurable. So if you are thinking Dipna Anand: That sure sounds tempting and of pursuing a career in the chef world or hospitality although I specialise in Punjabi cooking I love to and catering industry, take that step as you will try new regional varieties of Indian cuisine. I do a never look back. delicious South Indian prawn curry which is also in the book so who knows you may see a Goan fish WO’GOA: Dipna Anand’s comfort food. curry with a Punjabi slant in my next recipe book, Dipna Anand: Tea and biscuits, yum yum. I also sounds like a good idea, I better get working on it love chocolate now! WO’GOA: What’s next for Dipna Anand? A new WO’GOA: Your favorite Indian spice and how does book, a TV show? it make a difference in your cooking? Dipna Anand: My favourite spice has to be what Dipna Anand: I will start recipe book number 2 my dad calls the ‘king of spices’ the Garam Masala hopefully in mid 2015 and hopefully a TV show as it’s the secret to perfecting North Indian dishes. before this. I have also recently just started working If you have the right blend of Garam Masala, you with a company called Criterion Ices who are can be sure you are going to get a great end result. one of the finest producers of ice-creams. I have I also love using Kalonji (onions seeds) especially developed two unique ice-creams for them, one is when making marinations and also preparing Gulab Jamun infused ice-cream and the other is Indian breads. I love kalonjis peppery flavour and Jalebi infused ice-cream. I am working on other flavours too, such as Gajar Halwa and Kheer iceunique taste. cream too. Gulab Jamun and Jalebi ice-cream are WO’GOA: Does Dipna take time off from the now available in my restaurant and also available to different hats she wears (chef, lecturer, restaurateur, buy from Criterion Ices directly. I am in the process business entrepreneur) and how does she spend of getting small tubs of the ice-creams made and this leisure time while on a break? then hopefully get them into the supermarket. Watch this space! Dipna Anand: I love to shop, I am a compulsive

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;her creations are expertly planned: maintaining the integrity of the ingredients she showcases and ensures each component has a sense of place and no one flavor outplays another...â&#x20AC;? 28

ew York’s renowned Pastry Chef Surbhi Sahni who is widely known for her ethereal Mango Cheesecake. Surbhi constantly reinvents traditional flavors by incorporating unusual ingredients as she plays with flavors and textures to create sweet and savory deserts that are delicate on the palate and pleasing to the senses, a unique perspective to modern Indian cuisine. Surbhi has been a featured guest chef at the World of Flavors Conference at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park as well as at the Baking and Pastry Arts Retreat at Greystone. WO’GOA publisher catches up with Surbhi Sahni. WO’GOA: Tell us about your journey to becoming a pastry chef and would love to hear what inspired you to pursue this profession professionally? And any favorite childhood memories you have about baking. Surbhi Sahni: From my earliest memories as a child in India, I found myself drawn to food, art, storytelling, and community. Deeply grounded in the five senses, I took delight in everything around me, the beauty of the world, and the company of others. In my work, I try to create memorable tastescapes that delight all our senses and that bring diverse flavors, expertly balanced, and diverse peoples, warmly welcomed, together, in honor of my flavorful, story-filled youth. My earliest memory is helping my favorite aunt to mix cream butter and sugar then adding eggs one at a time and then the flour, to bake delightful birthday cakes. Often she would put silver sprinkle balls on top of the cake, which I tried to steal as many as I could. WO’GOA: Your combination of Indian ingredients with classic French techniques, which influences a cultural diversity, what are your favorite flavor combinations?

Surbhi Sahni: Using South Asian spices in cakes and mousses, also incorporating multidimensional textures, including layering of flavors - European, American, and South Asian - usually delight and surprise clients, wherever they are, and are from, in the world. WO’GOA: If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing? Surbhi Sahni: As mentioned previously, I have a great love for writing and storytelling, art, and community. While community can be built, and art shared, through food, it can also be done via writing. Having written since youth, and published occasionally over the years, I am increasingly seeing the writing as an important way to explore issues, bring people together, and delight the senses. From cookbooks, to culinary travel journalism, to political, social, and environmental issues regarding food, I hope to in future to connect others through both my writing and cooking. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you ever created? What inspired it? Surbhi Sahni: My fabulous fig cake, soaked in rum, ginger, and spices, is an Anglo-influenced creation often made during Christmas, but transformed through my particular blend of ingredients and techniques. Moist and flavorful, with notes of ginger and black pepper, usually served at room temperature, it is wonderful immediately after creation, and even improved in flavor after a few days. It pairs wonderfully with sharp cheeses, such as blue cheese and Camembert. WO’GOA: Is there a process you go through to create a new dessert? Surbhi Sahni: I think about the different food memories I have had through life, the different flavor combinations that have thrilled me in the past, be they sweet or savory. I isolate the key variables, elements, essential to the paring of opposites and complements, and begin experimenting in my kitchen. Sometimes it is about the addition of extra elements, for a more robust flavor, and sometimes it is about paring down, so key essential ingredients 30

Chilli chocolate cake with cinnamon hazelnut ganache

can shine, unimpaired. From there, it is practice, practice, practice, until the technique, flavors, and presentation are perfect, and I can delight in my new creation. WO’GOA: Who would be your ideal celebrity to prepare a dessert for? Surbhi Sahni: I would have loved to have prepared a meal for Maya Angelou. A poet, actress, writer, dancer, and singer, and tremendous advocate for racial, economic, gender, and sexual equality, her life and work continue to inspire me and countless others. WO’GOA: What is the next trend you see emerging in desserts? Surbhi Sahni: I see a lot more criss-crossing of global ingredients and techniques weaving themselves into U.S. pastry-making, including many berries and other fruits found in our home countries that have not yet been successfully integrated into the North American culinary landscape. WO’GOA: What is the most difficult ingredient you’ve ever had to work with? Surbhi Sahni: Particular ingredients are not usually an issue, standardization of their usage in recipes can prove difficult. For example, it took concerted efforts to perfect a banana flan, as water content in bananas can vary, thus affecting the final product. Learning how to cook effectively involves knowing how to plan recipes, while anticipating occasional ingredient fluctuations (e.g. fruit that is more tart than usual) and on-the-fly creativity and inspiration needed to make any meal a success. WO’GOA: Ingredient obsessions - What are your favorite ingredients you like working with? Surbhi Sahni: Definitely ginger: Its floral, sharp notes make it one ingredient I love to use liberally. It helps balance many ingredients and spices: used sparingly, it can be a hidden note in a symphony; used liberally, it can really help bring a plate together. WO’GOA: Do you have any special baking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy 31

using? And your approach to baking? Surbhi Sahni: My love of using the mortar and pestle is well known. It springs from my love of freshly grinding spices for use in my desserts. As many South Asian cooks know, spices taste better after they are slightly crushed; I use that technique frequently while making desserts. WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Surbhi Sahni: Creativity and technique go hand in hand: One is insignificant and of no consequence without the other. Cooks can be as creative as they want, but without knowing how to properly prepare the dish, the dish will be unpolished and incomplete. Similarly, technique itself cannot bring out the many layers of flavors, or materialize the emotional thought process required to create euphoric plates. WO’GOA: Would you like to share any special pairings of your desserts and pastries with beverages? Surbhi Sahni: I increasingly find myself drawn to Greek wines. One I currently favor, which goes extremely well with my spiced delights, is Vin Santo from Santorini. WO’GOA: How do you bring about a balance of sweet, salty, crunchy and tangy on a plate? Surbhi Sahni: Weaving various ingredients surfaces these elements on the plate. One begins by thinking, what elements would provide a textural difference, a different flavor profile, or a temperature difference, and help bring out the flavors of the dish. I revisit what I ate in childhood, and what I have eaten throughout adulthood, for inspiration in pairing ingredients and (re)discovering flavors that go well together. WO’GOA: A healthy dessert that you can always turn to when you’re in the mood for something sweet and savory? Surbhi Sahni: Shrikhand, a dessert with origins in Gujarat, is definitely my everyday comfort dessert. The simplicity of creamy hung yogurt, sprinkled 32

Shrikhand with fresh oranges and masala meringue

Buttermilk cupcakes with Salty caramel cream

Ginger panna cota, campari gelee, spiced poached pears 33

Pistachio cake, passion fruit cream, Kulfi, gold dust 34

Buttermilk cupcake with Salty caramel cream

with brown sugar, with tons of fresh fruit in it, and sprinkled again with candied cumin pecans, brings all the elements of creaminess, tanginess, crunch, sweet, and salty, it is what I look for in a perfectly balanced dessert. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Surbhi Sahni: In the summer, definitely homemade ice cream, made with loads of cream and sugar, is my guilty pleasure food. Top it with homemade chocolate sauce and roasted almonds, and I am in heaven. In the winter months, nothing beats spiced port wine poached figs, again with some of that dreamy vanilla ice cream. WO’GOA: What tips could you give our readers that are interested in becoming a pastry chef and breaking into the industry? Surbhi Sahni: Try to work under many different pastry chefs to learn various techniques. It is also important to expose oneself to various departments, whether working with chocolate, sugar pre-plated desserts, or breads. Only then can pastry chefs properly choose the areas in which they’d like to specialize and excel. WO’GOA: Any tips for the many home cooks out there like myself who are not beginners but nowhere near professional ability, so what advice you would give us to take our baking to the next level? Surbhi Sahni: Read recipes carefully. There are amazing resources online, such as Cook’s Illustrated, that really break down the techniques of baking to the smallest detail, which can be really helpful in perfecting techniques. Most important, have fun and practice as much as you can! WO’GOA: What’s next for Surbhi Sahni?

Coconut Khoya Truffles

Surbhi Sahni: I am working towards blogging more frequently, so people that have enjoyed my cooking can have easier access to asking me questions, and be better able to make some of my recipes in their own homes. For those that are interested in visiting, you can chat and ask me questions at www. surbhisahni.com. In addition, I am looking to open a retail outlet soon in New York for my wedding cake and dessert company, Bittersweet NYC.

W O‘GOA 35

Chef Saulo Baccheilega

Executive Chef, Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa 36

Y Chef Saulo Baccheilega grew up in a small town in Italy. From there he moved to various parts of the globe endorsing authentic Italian cuisine. He now operates as the Executive Chef at the Park Hyatt Goa. We chat with him over shots of espresso at his signature Italian restaurant Da Luigi. Text Vijaya Pais

our strength will always lie in the flavors you grew up with... says Executive Chef Saulo Baccheilega sitting comfortably at his signature restaurant ‘Da Luigi’ at the Park Hyatt Goa. He oversees all five restaurants at the 5 star property, but Da Luigi is his baby, it’s where he pours out his passion for fine food. “We won the ‘Most Authentic Italian Restaurant’ award in India, as per the Italian Chamber of Commerce last year, which was great validation for us” says Chef Saulo. The other highlight in his career was when he won the runner up award on an internet forum that constitutes around 2300 Italian chefs ranging from Michelin star chefs to the local pizzeria guys from all around the world. All the chefs were asked to submit an original recipe. The contestants were narrowed down to 100 and finally to five. Chef Saulo was one of the last five standing. But Chef Saulo is happiest when his patrons are happy “Every day is a highlight. When a guest comes up to me and say he loves my food or when the plates come back to the kitchen clean that for me is my highlight”. His mantra is simple “I use good ingredients, my focus is on the flavor and keeping it simple- that is what good Italian food is all about”. Chef Saulo like most thoroughbred Italians grew up surrounded by good food and good wine. “The women in my family can’t cook! My mother knows five dishes and both my sisters are useless in the kitchen” he says with a full throated laugh “In my family it was the men who cooked”. He grew up in a small town in the center of Italy called Emilia Romagna- A place that specializes in fresh pasta, balsamic, parmigiana, cold cuts and lasagna. “If you ask any Italian where you can get great Italian food they will say their mother’s house or Emilia Romagna”. Food was part of his life but he never considered it to be his life’s calling. “In Italy most kids decide their future at 14, but what do you know at 14? Life is all about girls and football” most of the kids at his school went off to the nearest city to pursue accounting. He and three of his friends 37

decided to go against the tide and head to the coastal town of Rimini instead where they enrolled themselves at the acclaimed ‘Istituto Professionale di Stato’. He had 32 batch mates out of which only two of them are still in the profession. “In Italy one is encouraged to change jobs often. You work winter with one chef and summer with another, that way you learn so much more. You pick up different styles and techniques. When you are young you are supposed to move around”. He certainly has developed his own style now being in the business for over 27 years. He has travelled all over the world with the Hyatt group -America, Dubai, Turkey, Egypt, Thailand and now Goa. It wasn’t all easy for him starting off though “I was very conventional in my thinking, when I came out of hospitality school. Things had to be done the proper, authentic way, which made it hard to adapt. I find this strange now coming from a country that colonized the world in the 14th century! I soon adjusted and opened my mind. My mother still gets upset if I make biscotti in any other than the traditional way”.

Prawn, Coriander & Peppercorn Soup

Back at the Park Hyatt Chef Saulo spends his time innovating and evolving his menu. “I’m not a Michelin star Chef my focus is purely on taste and flavor. I specialize in wholesome Italian food, which is my strength, passion and love”. The dishes at Da Luigi are tweaked and twisted to suit the Indian palate- for example Indians prefer boneless fish to bony fish. But the preparation is authentic Italian. The restaurant specializes in fresh pastas (an art he perfected at his home town in Emilia Romagna) and authentic woodfired pizzas. The menu has a delectable selection of fine Italian cuisine of which the Tagliatelle is a must try. It is Chef Saulo’s favorite dish made with fresh pasta “I love Quail Cafreal 38

the simple Tagliatelle with braised shallots and pecorino cheese. Extremely simple but there is nothing that needs to be added to this dish. It is perfect as it is”. There is a fair selection of meat on the menu but Chef Saulo veers towards seafood. He comes from a coastal town where anchovies, mackerels, clams and small fish are easily available and are very similar to the kind of fish you get here in Goa.

Sea Bass Fillet

All the produce in the kitchen is fresh using the farm to plate module as far as possible. This is one of the reason Chef Saulo loves working with the Hyatt. “Their standards are very high. All the ingredients are sourced intelligently. Almost everything we use in our kitchen is fresh and organic. Everything is made in-house, from the bread to the sauces and the preserves. The bread just out of the oven is awesome” he exclaims. The hotel even has a little chef’s garden where herbs and spinach along with other vegetables are grown. Even the coconuts off the trees are used as far as possible. Chef Saulo spends his Saturday mornings shopping for fresh fish in preparation for the ‘Italian Sunday Lunch’ which is a lovey relaxed way to spend a Sunday afternoon with some wonderful Italian hospitality. The chefs in the kitchen come around with pans full of delicious Italian dishes served straight on your plate. We highly recommend you save some space for the Tiramisu which is touted to be the best in India. Chef Saulo has spent 4 years at his new home in Goa with his Indonesian wife and two young children. He finds some striking similarities between the Goan and Italian way of life. Family and food comes first. It’s been an exhilarating journey for Chef Saulo Baccheilega spreading his authentic flair for Italian cuisine across continents. “A happy chef makes happy food” poignant words to end our interview.

Crispy Pork Belly

W O‘GOA

photo Rohan Mayenkar 40

rom the Royal Caribbean Cruise Liner to I-95 ticket to freedom... Sumera Bhalla speaks about her curlinary journey and her contemporary & fusion cuisine at I-95. WO’GOA: Take us through your culinary journey and the inspiration behind this profession.

“Sumera’s cuisine is global in nature, combining flavor profiles and textures from various cuisines. Beautiful fresh seafood and quality cuts of meats is key to her creative flair and creative food”

Sumera Bhalla: I started cooking at a young age and would always scamper around the kitchen as my mom baked and made us goodies. Around the age of 16, I realized that I would like to make a career out of it and thus proceeded to attend the prestigious Dadar Catering College. The faculty there helped to set the foundations of my career as a chef. I then went on to specialise in the culinary studies at the Oberoi Centre. My career path then traversed through The Oberoi, Mumbai, then Royal Caribbean and then eventually at my own restaurant in Goa. WO’GOA: Cruise Lines, how did this come about? Being a chef on board is very demanding, tell us about this experience. Sumera Bhalla: After working at The Oberoi for close to 4 years I felt a need to add to my experience a job overseas, which had a multinational workforce. I as a result joined Royal Caribbean Cruise Liners. I loved my life on the high seas. Even though the job was very demanding, I enjoyed every minute. I loved the high pressure environment and being responsible for a workforce of around 100 people. The hours were long and there was no time as not being on call, but hard work and performance were well recognised and this made me aspire for even higher goals. WO’GOA: Goa… why Goa? How did you decide on having a restaurant in Goa?

Sumera Bhalla: There comes a stage in one’s career when they realize that they have the ability to run their own ventures. Being a chef, everyone dreams of one day having their own place, where every dish on the menu is created by you and your food philosophies. Once the idea is planted, one has to decide to forge ahead with it. It was at such a time that my partner and I decided that it was time to do our own restaurant. The idea of doing a restaurant in Goa appealed since we would have a discerning clientele who were well travelled and could appreciate high end cuisine. We researched the market in goa for close to 5 months and then finally decided we could give it a go and so I-95 was born. WO’GOA: How was I-95 conceived, what’s behind the name I-95 and what is I-95’s cuisine? Sumera Bhalla: After gauging the market in Goa, we realize that there was potential for creative food done with the best of ingredients. Planning the menu was comparatively easy since we loved working with beautiful fresh seafood and quality cuts of meat. The food in I-95 is world cuisine with a creative flair. Invigorating combinations of risottos with Bluefin tuna & Thai inspired sauces, stilton stuffed beef tornadoes with smoked potato puree, Lobster poached in fresh butter with fennel and apple are an example of some of the dishes on our menu. Our name also has an interesting story to it; we as owners of i95 used to all work on cruise liners. To get off the ship on ports we required a document called “i95 “.... this was what we called our “ticket to freedom”. So we thought what better name than that for our restaurant. WO’GOA: Visiting and tasting food from various countries during your cruise lines days, has this influenced you’re food at I-95? Sumera Bhalla: Definitely, and this is directly reflected in the i95 menu. My menu is global in

nature, with me combining flavor profiles and textures from various cuisines.

there a particular ingredient you use in cuisine?

Sumera Bhalla: There has to be a method in madness also. It is important to get a proper mix of meats and seafood to ensure variety and to cater to varied palates. In the creation of my menus I am particular about ensuring fresh produce as far as possible. Also I am particular about not playing around with food too much. Flavors should be true and bold. Menu changes happen periodically but old favourites are always retained.

WO’GOA: Creativity or technique, what is more important? Sumera Bhalla: If you don’t have the technique right then even the most creative dish can be a disaster!

Sumera Bhalla: One spice which I love to use is WO’GOA: Is there a process you go through star anise and in terms of a particular ingredient creating your menu and how often do you in cuisine it would be curry leaves in Indian cuisine. change it?

WO’GOA: What’s combination?

your

favorite

Sumera Bhalla: Be ready to take risks, work hard, serve great food, be true to yourself and believe flavor in your product.... that’s the secret to success.

Sumera Bhalla: The combination of complexity from pickled ginger, heat from wasabi and the delicateness from fresh raw tuna is a particular favourite. WO’GOA: What is your favorite spice and is

WO’GOA: What is your advice to people who want to start a restaurant in Goa?

WO’GOA: When not in the kitchen, what does Sumera do during her leisure time? Sumera Bhalla: I love to read, spend quality time with my family, and taking long walks with my dog.

W O‘GOA

Fine dining in Fontainhas

O Fogo

From Florida to Fontainhas, Chef Christopher lets us into his fascinating world, the kind that reads like a Hollywood potboiler. The climax of which was his stellar sorpotel... Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

“All my dishes are balanced nutritionally” that would make sense for someone who has spent his life between Bollywood, Bombay, Germany, the United States, military school and a homeless shelter. “Protein, carbohydrates, starch and a vegetarian element-A healthy balance for a perfect meal” Chef Christopher Saleem Agha Bee’s journey into the world of food began at 17. He had just lost his real father, been expelled from school in India. His mother and stepfather figured it might be easier to send him to military school so Frankfurt to Florida it was. He endured military school for a month, soon after he was at the payphone looking for an escape route. Dad – “Son, it’s the school or you are pretty much on your own” – Tough luck, and that moment changed his life forever. He found himself at a homeless shelter; got himself a job at the restaurant where he worked as a bus boy cleaning tables and the works. His hidden talent was discovered soon enough when the head chef was two staff down. Christopher stepped in and the rest as they say is history. Survival threw him a ladle, and he simply loved it! A year and a half later he took out a student loan and enrolled himself at the Culinary Institute of America, one of the best in the world. “Food had been part of my life the whole time but I had to be forced into a situation where so many dramatic incidents had led me to my future, my passion” Chef Christopher’s grew up in a food loving environment “My dad had the first cookery show in India” – His biological father was a Bollywood celebrity Jalal Agha, his mother, a fullblooded Goan, cooked up a storm every chance 47

Mezze Platter

Watermelon, Feta, Rocket leaves and Green chilli Salad with a Coriander dressing

Fillet of Fish with fresh coconut rice, pak choi in passion fruit butter sauce

Sorpotel topped with Pork Belly, Baby Potato, Local Red Spinach and Slaw

she got. He left India at six, after which he shuttled between Munich, Frankfurt, New York. Good food was a given, he regularly dined at Michelin star restaurants. “I recall being asked where I wanted to eat for my 9th birthday and saying I would like to go to a Tepanyaki restaurant”. Chef Christopher is a star at what he does, defying the rules as he goes along. He spent 20 years cooking in Spain, Germany and America after which he decided to move back to his roots. He started ‘Sublime’ his eclectic signature restaurant in Morjim 12 seasons ago. He has also designed the menu for Café Nu, an organic health food café in Mandrem. His latest venture is ‘O Fogo’ which means Fire in Portuguese. He brings his brand of quirky nouvelle cuisine to the quaint Latin Quarters. Chef Christopher has been involved in every single aspect at ‘O Fogo’. He designed the space from the ground up. The restaurant has a charming air to it with bright burgundy walls offset by white tables with plenty of little details he sourced from as far off as ‘chor bazaar’ in Mumbai. The restaurant is housed in ‘La Maison’, a converted ancestral hardware store, now a posh bed and breakfast. “The menu at O Fogo is primarily contemporary, modern, fusion food. It’s a modern, cool, trendy way to eat. I basically cook what I like to eat” – With a diverse experience such as his, he finds it simple to mix various elements to ‘compose’ a dish. “At O Fogo we source a lot of local, organic produce and add imported ingredients like cheese from Italy, Kodaikanal, Greece and Miso from Japan. It’s a small menu but it remains exciting with a lot of seafood and meat with a fair vegetarian selection”. He passionately goes on to describe his take on Sorpotel- a signature Goan dish. He blends the Sorpotel in all its authenticity to a fine gravy. Embellishes it with roasted baby potatoes, laal bhaji (red spinach) topped off with slices of pork belly that have been rubbed in a secret masala,

roasted for several hours until it is so soft that it is literally falling apart. Crispy onion rings coated in Japanese Panko breadcrumbs are added to give the dish a crunchy edge. I said simply “Err, chef, could I have this dish for my main please?” I sip on my homemade ‘kombucha’ (a fermented flavored tea) while I take in the flavors of O Fogo. Our dining experience begins with a complimentary shot glass of cauliflower soup and bruschetta. Vegetarians and Pescatarians have a fair amount of decadent dishes to choose from. We tried a wonderful, fresh, organic salad made with Watermelon, feta, rocket leaves, green chilli finished off with a coriander dressing. The Mezze Platter came with the most wonderful falafels, hummus, roasted eggplant, organic apricot millet, Kalamata olives, roasted tomatoes, pearl onions and a potato salad. The fish dish was out of this world- a fillet of sea bass in passion fruit butter sauce, pak choi accompanied by a side of coconut rice. I simply devoured my Sorpatel and have to say it was completely authentic in its flavor, looked great on the plate and felt even better in my tummy! ‘O Fogo’ is building a reputation for sure, organic salads, soups and starters with a twist, ingredients sourced intelligently, and servings crafted to perfection with flavors that remain with you long enough to bring you back. It has been a journey for this Saleem Christopher Agha Bee and his rebelliousness, which is still largely prevalent in his food but in such a fun and positive way. Maybe it is too much to say, but O Fogo is a new compliment to the always beautiful ‘Fontainhas’, a small pocket of the old world still available to the residents and many visitors of Goa. In my estimation, the nouvelle and deliciously experimental ‘O Fogo’ is the cherry on the cake that is Fontainhas, the ‘enfant wonderful’, a must visit – If you desire a truly good meal, well balanced and flavorful, in a small pocket from the past, on a lazy Goan day. 49

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Caetano do Rosario de Souza

Selma Carvalho

The first Goan to travel to East Africa in 1865 and set up the best retail store in Zanzibar f one is travelling by bus from Margao, past the swathes of paddy fields and tiny lakes, the village of Velsao is the last stop, and for Xastikars this is where all civilisation ends. Beyond that, lies a jumble of accents, dialects, food and rituals which we don’t particularly care for. Velsao, like any Xasti village is beautiful in its sobriety of whitewashed churches, wayside crosses and the sprawling houses of landed gentry. Into the interiors of Velsao, lie two separate houses abutting each other, so as to form a large, single structure of stately elegance. I’ve been invited by Marconi de Souza to visit the house, its current occupant and the great-grandson of Caetano do Rosario de Souza or C R de Souza as he was better known.

Houses are curious monuments to our past, inhabited by the shallow-breathing ghosts of their ancestors, who have stories to tell. Part of the reason, I continue to collect these stories is to reinforce the point that almost every household in Goa is somehow connected to a narrative of migration, and that unless we honour this narrative, we are losing an essential part of our history. No house, perhaps, has a larger and more integral story of migration than that of C R de Souza. Generally considered to be the first pioneering Goan to venture into East Africa, around 52

The only surviving picture of C R de Souza

Selma Carvalho is the author of ‘A Railway Runs Through: Goans of British East Africa, 1865- 1980’ now available in Goa.

One of the reception halls of the house 1865, the twenty-six year old Caetano sailed to Zanzibar. The financial status of the family at this time is unknown except that they were landowners. What could an inexperienced young man hope to achieve on an African island where death and disaster were all too frequent? As it turned out quite a lot. Known as ‘Big de Souza’ in Zanzibar, a fitting moniker given his large commanding frame and impressive beard, he ran the most important retail store in possibly the whole of east Africa at the time, promising to deliver ‘every description of goods used by Europeans.’ He sold merchandise downstairs and ran the upstairs rooms as a bar. British consuls and other European colonials, in the absence of any other clubs, were known to drop by in the evenings for a ‘whiskey-soda’. In just fifteen years, Sultan Sayyid Barghash awarded him a diploma of honour with a gold medal for enterprise. Further recognition came in 1892, when he was awarded his second gold medal by Sayyid Ali bin Sayyid. It was Souza’s idea of setting up a store which catered almost exclusively to a European clientele that would be emulated by other Goans, giving them a reputation for excellence in retail, which carried over when they spread into Mombasa and Nairobi. No European could survive in East Africa without Goan retailers importing the small luxuries of wines, tinned goods, newspapers and clothes, 53

The house built by C R Souza’s son Roldao which made their life bearable. What is interesting in the history of the diasporan Goan is not just how these influential figures of the late nineteenth century impacted the lands they adopted but how their wealth shaped and transformed the social landscape of Goa. Family history documents that Caetano, for instance, was a great benefactor of village chapels, including the chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes in Betalbatim, St. Anthony’s Chapel Deussua in Chinchinim and a chapel as far as Anjuna. But Caetano’s philanthropy didn’t extend to just brick and mortar. His influence was far more profound. He was instrumental in assisting the migration of countless other Goans into East Africa. Once there, they were employed in his own businesses, but never one to hold back industry and initiative, he encouraged many to start their own enterprises, of which Souza Junior & Dias would go on to build a ship-chandling empire of their own. More importantly, Souza inculcated in Goans an aspiration for education. He funded, in Bombay, the schooling of children, whose fathers were in his employ. 54

It is not often that one crosses the threshold of a house so overwhelming in history. Although to be fair, the house was built to its grand scale by his two sons Eliseu and Roldao. It’s a splendid house, of many rooms, with a wide verandah running across the breath of its façade. As Marconi leads me through the now mostly unoccupied rooms, I’m saddened by the thought that in a few years’ time, the history of this house maybe forgotten entirely. Marconi began restoring the house in 2007, and now divides his time between Canada and Goa. For some time now, I have been urging the Goa government to dedicate a museum to the Goan diaspora. A space like C R de Souza’s house would make an ideal venue for just such a museum. In fact, when I discussed the idea with Marconi, he was open to the suggestion. I truly wish some concentre direction can be given to this idea, by a tourism department which must begin looking beyond rave parties, casinos and hotels to attract tourists, and an Art and Culture department which must work harder to preserve the sheer diversity of our historical past. Is anyone listening? I don’t know. 55

The Reis Magos Legacy Text & Photography

Jasmine Chopra

t has stood for centuries silently guarding the shores of Portuguese Goa since its creation in 1551. Though inferior in size to its siblings in Aguada and Mormugao, the superior beauty of this fort is food for the creative soul. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tiered faĂ§ade and uninterrupted views of the Arabian sea stir creativity within oneself. Renovated to its former glory and maintained to ensure standards, a visit to the fort is convenient and pleasant. The crowd is often sparse which allows time for a more leisurely experience and the entry cost of a mere 10 rupees (on Sundays and public holidays) even covers the fee for transport to and from its entrance should you choose not to make the ascent on foot.

The setting is ideal and the natural surrounding softens the aura around this military edifice. Overlooking the Mandovi River and facing the capital Panjim, it can be found dominating the skyline of a very ordinary rural road fringed with coconut trees and circled by low flying kites. Located near the fishing village of Betim, the route to Reis Magos is popular but not cumbersome. The fort itself is now a gallery of sorts displaying artwork of the late acclaimed local illustrator Mario Miranda. The vibrancy and humour depicted in Mirandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work adds amusement to a building that once commanded respect and authority and made little allowance for wit. The history, though predictable to some measure, talks of accommodating viceroys, conquering Hindu 56

Marathas and imprisoning convicts who went against the Portuguese dictate. When arriving via Betim, it is a church of Franciscan origin that triggers a sparkle in the eye of those who pass it not the fort itself which goes on to capture their interest seconds later. The unusual coupling of the fort alongside the Reis Magos Church is what gives this village greater appeal. Both structures are uniquely exquisite in their design yet complement each other side by side. Built in 1555 it stands elevated atop a beautiful wide stairway that leads to a whitewashed exterior with specks of royal blue adding additional character. Reis Magos (translates to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Three Wise Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in old Portuguese) was the first church in Bardez and was responsible for a large proportion of missionary work in the district. Annually on the 6th of January, sleepy Reis Magos explodes with life as the vibrant Festa dos Reis Magos is celebrated in the village. The story of the three kinds is re-enacted by the younger generations and is a traditional that has been passed down for centuries. The festivities begin with a procession that impersonates the journey of the three kings as they travelled to worship the Holy Infant Child. The church rumoured to have been built on the land where a Hindu temple once stood was dedicated to Saint Jerome and became a prominent hub for the teachings of Christianity and conducting matters of higher religious order. The tomb of famed defender Dom Luis de Ataide can also be found here. The Reis Magos Fort is owned by the Goa government and has been listed under the Goa Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act as the oldest fort in Goa. The legacy of this village and its attributes deserve to be seen and their story has deservingly been showcased. Do take the opportunity to visit when you are next in Goa. 59

atna Singh is India’s first woman naturalists or ranger as they would call it in Africa. This tough khaki tiger tracking jungle girl not only has a passion for nature and wildlife but keeps up with the latest trends of fashion - her Vogue magazines each month... WO’GOA tracks the jungle girl through the wilderness! WO’GOA: Safari Specialist, it’s usually uncommon and unheard of to hear that a lady is in this job, the wilderness, surrounded with wild animals and away from the beauty and lifestyle, take us through this wild journey.

“this is where my roots lie - the jungle and rural life is home to me, it came very naturally to me... animals are a part of my life”

Ratna Singh: Yes it was rather unusual when I did take up this profession 8 years ago. In fact I was the only professionally qualified lady Naturalist in the region, and a first for Tajsafaris. There were of course ladies who were wildlife researchers, but Naturalist was a new path. I love the jungles, my home is on the outskirts of a dense forest, not far from Bandhavgarh National park – so animals have always been a part of our lives. My home was filled with mounted antlers and tiger skins on the sofa and our evenings were filled with tales of the wild. My family in modern times had become animal’s lovers and that was passed on to me. So, for me it was nothing new. Although I went away to boarding school when very young and then onto college in Delhi. But the jungles and the rural life was always home to me. This is where my roots lie, though it seems like an offbeat career path, it came very naturally to me. I was working with the UNHCR (I did a post graduate course in International Law, human rights and refugee laws) when I heard of this opportunity. I applied, and was told this is an equal opportunity for both genders. I was the only girl on the 5 week selection process to be shortlisted for the actual training. No one had any faith in me, and I wasn’t really under any pressure, coz I really was the underdog! Everyone else had immense experience, came with work experience in wilderness areas etc. 61

I guess that helped, as I was myself and worked very hard. So, finally here I am. I went from being a naturalist, to head Naturalist, to a Manager Naturalist Training to Safari Specialist for the company. The first 2-3 years were difficult as people did not have faith, hence leadership opportunities were difficult as it is the jungle, a male dominated society, so in many ways my team mates and management were looking out for me and keeping me safe - I suppose. However after they saw that I could manage just as well as the men – there has been no looking back. WO’GOA: How long have you been a safari specialist with Taj Safaris and which has been the best posting among the four lodges - Pashan Garh, Mahua Kothi, Banjaar Tola or Baghvan? Ratna Singh: I have had the opportunity to work at all the lodges, and it’s really hard to say which one was the best – I have such fond memories at all the four places. But Pashan Garh Panna, is very special. I watched the lodge go up, I’ve been a part of the planting etc in the 200 acre property, now I see the foot tall saplings are strapping 10 foot trees, it is very satisfying. The naturalist team chalked out the walking trails and established unique experiences for the guests to this lodge. So definitely it is a posting I look back with Nostalgia. But Kanha is magical and it is difficult not to be in love with the park. But then again, Bandhavgarh is my backyard – and it is bound by childhood memories. Besides the dramatic park and magnificent tigers are difficult to ignore. WO’GOA: When one talks about safaris, one would usually connect it with either Kruger Park or Amboseli National Park or Maasai Mara Reserve or the Serengeti National Park or Pilanesberg Game Reserve or Sabi Sands Game Reserve – please do enlighten us about the parks in Madhya Pradesh, India (Panna National Park, Bandhavgarh National Park, Kanha National Park and Pench National Park). 62

Ratna Singh: Hmmm, yes people often tend to compare the African experience to the Indian one. But Africa is a whole continent which we compare to just one country, so definitely it’s a different scale altogether. Besides, Africa does not have the pressure of the crushing human population pressure as India does. Majority of our population is rural, and depend on forests for so many daily necessities like fire wood, home building materials etc. Africa has much lesser population so definitely they have larger wilderness areas left intact. Besides Indian jungles are mostly dense so visibility of animals is not as good. Also our jungles are like islands surrounded by sea of humanity, so we don’t have the scale of numbers like Africa. Numerous countries in Africa have the option of a private parks or private concessions – even those like Kruger. Which means that a private company may buy traversing rights for a portion of the land where only that particular wildlife resort’s vehicles may go. This gives fabulous animal viewing opportunities with very few people around. India on the other hand has only national parks and everyone must follow the rules set by park authorities. Luckily in the last few years the government have made the wildlife experience for tourist even more holistic by carving out various zones for tourism with limited number of vehicles being allowed in each zone. India may not have the huge numbers in terms of animal herds, but we do not lack anywhere in bio diversity. India has close to 15 cats – including the lesser cats to Africa’s 9. Southern Africa has a bird count of approximately 800 while the Indian subcontinent has a bird count of close to 1500! And last but not the least, India is the best place to spot a tiger in the wild. Along with the world’s largest cat, India boasts of having the world’s smallest cat in the wild – the Rusty spotted cat at just under 1.5 kilos! And, Africa has no bears! 63

WO’GOA: Could you share your best moments in the wild? Ratna Singh: So many, it’s hard to say which one was the best. It’s got to be the fresh air and a society free of the rat race – where one is accepted for who u are. And a close knit community of villagers as well as those working in wildlife tourism. However, each tiger and leopard sighting is always special. A naturalist’s sense of accomplishment is heightened if you are able to track down a predator - tiger or leopard or wild dogs. In the jungles there is nothing to help you except your senses. Alarm calls of deer or monkeys is a sign that a predator is on the move. Smell of rotting meat – means that there may have been a kill and the predator maybe luring nearby. Tracks on the ground or signs of territory marking, especially by tigers and then there will be an instinct, a hunch that pays off. Once on a hot summer day, I was circling a rocky hillock, as I knew it was leopard territory. There were small caves at the base of the hillock which did provided shade and did not heat up as much as the rocks on top. A Swiss couple were my guests, and feeling particularly hot. I had explained to them that I was trying to track leopard as this was good habitat. However, after circling the area for about 15 minutes, they grew a bit restless and said they didn’t think there was any animal in the area leave alone a leopard. I wanted to explain to them how a cave at the bottom would be a cool spot for the leopard to avoid the hot summer afternoon. I drove to the mouth of a small cave and pointed to it, telling them “if I were a leopard, I would rest in such a shady cool cave”, and I had barely completed my sentence that a leopard peeked out of the cave and looked at us! Imagine our surprise! The leopard then gradually went on to groom himself and stretch and yawn just a few meters away from us, After having our full of photographing the leopard, my guests joked with me and saying “that I had an understanding with the leopard”. That was such a wonderful sighting. I love watching the young ones of monkeys – they are hilarious. 64

WO’GOA: How do you design this perfect luxury safari for the discerning traveler (either individuals or groups)? Ratna Singh: The simplest and easiest thing to do is ask the guests exactly what they are looking for. Some only know about tigers, and want to see a tiger. It then becomes my duty to showcase the rest of the wildlife and landscape to them – the idea is that they go away with more than they had bargained for in an Indian jungle. Otherwise, there is also a fair bit of ‘reading’ of guests involved. Many people don’t know what they may like, having never been to a jungle before. Some become avid birders, some enjoy the peace of the jungles, some jungle sounds. So all sorts of expectations, best is to ask and tailor-make. There was one guest who only wanted to sleep in the jungle. He was there for a few days, and he would ask the naturalist to park under the shade of a tree by the water hole, and sleep, sometimes for an hour or two! WO’GOA: Which is the best month for a safari? Ratna Singh: In central India the parks are open from the 16th of October to the 30th of June each year. The parks are closed in the monsoon. In October when the parks reopen, the jungles look like paradise or Garden of Eden. The water holes are brimming, the grass is lush, the animals have their winter coats on and the migratory birds from different continents are beginning to arrive for the winter. The park is in its most beautiful in the winter months. Also, animals can be seen basking, soaking up the sun and giving fabulous photographic opportunities. My favorite part is hot coffee and muffins in the park on a misty morning as the dew drops glisten on the grass – Ratna smiles… In the summer, the grass and the leaves dry up, making visibility so much better, specially for photography. Also summer is when most of the smaller water holes dry up and all the animals flock to the watering holes. The Tiger is the only cat that loves water so, great photographic opportunities in 65

the summer. WO’GOA: In the years as a safari specialist have you experienced a situation while on a safari with a wild animal? Ratna Singh: I have never ever felt threatened, or felt that there could be a sticky situation with a predator. Once one of my colleagues’ had a flat tyre in the park, to make matters worse, his jack broke too. Luckily I happened to be in the same area and got off to help him with tools from my vehicle. As we were both standing on the ground, a huge tiger emerged from the grasses and passed us while we stood rooted to the spot. Once in Africa, I helped look after a cheetah that had to be relocated – I had to drag the cheetah’s food inside a 1 acre enclosure. The Zulu caretaker opened the door and the moment I was inside, shut it with a clang behind me. I was so panicky and the cheetah was eyeing me from about 50 meters. Anyhow the first time I just dragged the dead impala to the middle of the enclosure and fled. The cheetah too was very wary – but a few visits later began to trust me, and was quite comfortable even coming to within a foot of me. WO’GOA: What does Ratna Singh do while she is not in the wilderness? Ratna Singh: I read, I like to write about my wilderness anecdotes. I love to exercise and I love to shop – yes I do. Contrary to what people think that I’m a tough khaki wearing, tiger tracking jungle girl, I do like pretty things. In fact a writer from the New Yorker who was visiting was so amazed at my interest in fashion that she gifted me a year’s subscription of the Vogue magazine from NY. It’s a different matter that I always got the issues about a month or so late, but no matter! Also my husband – who was also a naturalist and a wildlife buff, take holidays together to – you guessed it other national parks that we have not explored!

W O‘GOA

Traversing the Peruvian Coastline in Search of Pisco and Fine Cuisine Text & Photography

Doug Singer

From Alaska’s Prudhoe Bay to Ushuaia, Argentina, the Pan-American Highway is the world’s longest “motorable road” and stretches an impressive 48,000 kilometers. It was only a small section of this transcontinental motorway that was traversed during my recent trip to Peru, but one that set the stage for a beautiful and historical experience. After a relatively uneventful flight from JFK and a restful, albeit short night’s sleep at Hotel Atton in Lima, we boarded the van with our driver and headed down the Peruvian coast with one place in mind - the Chincha Province of Ica, the country’s famed and historic Pisco making region. A brief history of Pisco: Pisco was developed by Spanish settlers in the 16th century out of the need to

Vineyard at Hacienda La Caravedo 68

concentrate alcohol volume in order to transport it to remote locations. Unlike the Spanish Orujo, a brandy made of distilled pomace (the solid remains of grapes after pressing for juice), Pisco is proudly derived from the wine itself and is a colorless grape brandy. Peruvian Pisco can be made from eight different varieties of grapes - four “non-aromatic” red grapes and four “aromatic” white grapes, named for their fragrant and often floral or fruity characteristics. Each imparts a slightly different characteristic to the finished spirit, but all are distilled using the same methods. Stainless steel and glass are the only containers that Peruvian Piscos ever come into contact with; they may be distilled only once, and never diluted. No wood-aging or any sort of manipulation other than the blending of varietals is allowed. Like wine, Pisco can either be kept as a puro using only one varietal, or blended with other varietals to create an acholado. After a scenic three-hour ride, our first stop was Viñas de Oro, one of the more established Pisco manufacturers. Located within the Hacienda Hoja Redonda, 213 kilometers south of Lima, in the traditional district of El Carmen, this winery opened its doors in 1983. Currently, the property has eight hundred hectares, eighty of which are dedicated to growing seven types of pisco grapes (aromatic: Italia, Moscatel, Torontel, Albilla and non-aromatic: Quebranta, Common Black and Mollar). After a tour of the pristine distillery and an extensive tasting at the onsite bar, it was back into the van and pointed in the direction of La Olla de Juanita, home to some of the finest, rustic Peruvian cuisine. Located

Distillery at Hacienda La Caravedo

Distillery at Vi単as de Oro 70

in an area named Pisco Row, this was comfort food at its finest. Apparently this local hotspot draws a wide array of celebrities, tourists and people living in the area seeking the finest in traditional cuisine. Next it was off to experience a pair of Ica’s more rustic distilleries. Owned by two brothers, Bodega El Catador and Tres Generaciones are located adjacent to one another and share their facilities. A lively and informative 2-in-1 destination, it is one of the interesting “artisanal” bodegas to visit in the area and is conveniently located on Panamericana Sur. To wrap up a spectacular day of food and Pisco tasting, we headed to the lovely beach town of Paracas to check into what would be our home for the next two days - La Hacienda Bahia Paracas. Paracas is a district in Ica best known for its National Reserve. An intimate community thriving with local food and culture, Paracas is a beautiful fusion of marine habitats and tropical desert, and home to some of the most alluring coastlines and wildlife in the country. The hotel walks the fine line of rustic sensibility and modern amenities with grace, and delivers an absolutely pristine paradise. Our beautiful ground level room was highlighted by a patio that sloped directly into the pool which looks out onto the coastline - truly unique. When it’s time to dine, you do not have to go far as the onsite restaurant, El Coral, not only offers the best view of the bay, but serves up a sophisticatedly modern Peruvian cuisine. La Hacienda Bahia Paracas provided a spectacular night’s sleep and left us fortified to experience what is certain to be the crown jewel of the Peruvian Pisco landscape - Hacienda La Caravedo. Since 1684, Hacienda La Caravedo has been home to the oldest working distillery in the Americas and it is here that Portón Pisco is produced and keeps alive centuries-old traditional methods without the use of electricity or modern machinery. A large wooden lagar (press) does the work of pressing the grapes and gravity fed channels move the Pisco from one step of the process to the next—the only of its type in the world. The gentle touch that this Distillery at Hacienda La Caravedo 71

gravity fed system provides, ensures the quality and smoothness of the final product. On the same property and adjacent to the historic distillery, Portón has created a new cutting-edge distillery modeled upon the wisdom and heritage of these traditional methods. Master Distiller Johnny Schuler, one of the foremost Pisco authorities in the world, has dedicated much of his life to setting the standards for excellence in the Pisco industry and revitalizing interest in Peru’s native spirit. After being brought on board by owners Bill and Brent Kallop, he designed the new distillery so that it also would move the precious liquid only through the natural forces of gravity, just as it has been done at this location since its inception in 1684. The new distillery also allows for the same small batch distillation and control over every bottle and was created with environmental stewardship in mind. The attention to detail is inspiring - Johnny Shuler’s blood runs green and he clearly walks the walk. A lush roof garden has been planted to offset the carbon dioxide emissions created naturally during fermentation and a water treatment system is in place to recycle water from the distillation process into irrigation water for the vineyards. This is without a doubt one of the most beautiful pieces of land I have ever had the privilege to visit and one of the finest distilleries anywhere. This is the absolute pinnacle of the contemporary Pisco world and after only four years, Portón is the number one exporter of this fine spirit, as well as the world’s largest producer of ultra-premium Pisco. After a cocktail hour and dinner at Hotel Starwood Paracas, and another “sleep of angels,” it was off to Islas Ballestas, a beautiful wildlife island preserve off of the coast of Peru where one can experience the habitats of sea lions, penguins, local birds and the stunning landscape of the island. Our boat tour was an eye-opening experience and one that articulated the broad diversity of Peru’s landscape. It was time for our drive back to Lima and checking in at the stunningly opulent Belmond Miraflores Pisco Porton Vineyard 72

Master Distiller Johnny Schuler

Pisco Porton State of the Art Distillery 73

Tasting Menu at Malabar Restaurant, Lima

Tasting Menu at Malabar Restaurant, Lima 74

Park. The ride was well worth it as we were rewarded with a dinner of haute Peruvian cuisine at the acclaimed La Huaca Pucllana—the on-site restaurant located next to the archeological ruins after which the restaurant is named. The site was developed between the years of 200 AD and 700 AD and is comprised of adobe and clay structures which served as an important ceremonial center for the Lima culture. Interestingly, it is situated right in the heart of the city. Our final day in Lima was rife with activity as there was much to absorb. We bypassed breakfast as lunch was going to be at the world-famous Chez Wong. Chez Wong is a restaurant that operates out of Javier Wong’s home in the La Victoria suburb with a mere 10 tables, serves lunch only and has a strict booking policy. Don’t try to just turn up here, even if there is a table, they will just send you home. This is a rock star-style performance, with no menu, and all of the hype is well deserved simply spectacular. Next was a guided tour of downtown Lima, providing an important cultural glimpse including Lima’s beautiful main square, Plaza San Martin and the Plaza de Armas. The Government Palace is also spectacular and the official residence and office of Peru’s president. If you have an opportunity, check out the changing of the guards which happens precisely at noon. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is clear why. The architectural beauty is breathtaking and more than an afternoon is recommended to explore this area. It was sadly time to depart and on our way to the airport, we simply had to make one more stop to satisfy our culinary curiosity. Ranked Number 7 in the 2014 San Pellegrino’ list of the 50 best Restaurants in Latin America, Malabar shined with its creative approach to Amazonian Peruvian food, as well as cocktails using exotic and unknown fruits from the Amazon. This five-course tasting dinner was truly an epicurean delight and if in Lima, a must try.

El Coral Restaurant at La Hacienda Bahia Paracas Hotel

All in all Peru’s numerous gifts and beautiful landscape provided a journey that will hold a fond place in my heart and my evolving culinary wisdom. 75

WALDORF ASTORIA D u b a i Pa l m J u m e i r a h

GOA & BEYOND - WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

Royal Suite Master Bedroom

Royal Living Room 78

Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah is a remarkable destination. A pristine white pearl surrounded by the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf, it has a generous private beach with soft sands, palatial public spaces and luxurious guest rooms and suites of elegant, timeless design. From arrival to departure, guests of Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah are not only embraced by this iconic hotel, but also welcomed by True Waldorf Service – a service initiative that assigns a personal concierge to each qualified guest who acts as their primary contact, before, during and – an industry first – after a stay, to guarantee every want and request is met.

Royal Suite Dining Room

Positioned on the East Crescent of Palm Jumeirah and boasting a wealth of superior services, amenities at Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah fittingly reflect the inspirational environments of the brand. Guests will be spoilt for choice with a selection of six sumptuous restaurants and bars offering the finest cuisine and drinks including a jewel in the culinary crown, the New York inspired Social by Heinz Beck, a fashionably stylish eatery by multi-award winning master of gastronomy, European chef and author Heinz Beck. 79

GOA & BEYOND - WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

Befitting of a Waldorf Astoria hotel, a luxurious Waldorf Astoria Spa will offer bespoke treatments that blend traditional philosophies with signature techniques to create therapies designed to balance, revive and rejuvenate. 81

TA J S A FA R I S

Bandhavgarh National Park 82

GOA & BEYOND - TAJ SAFARIS

ajsafaris launched the first luxury wildlife circuit in India with 4 lodges in Madhya Pradesh. Located outside the 4 well known tiger reserves at Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Panna and Pench; these lodges bring understated luxury teamed with one of the best wilderness experiences in the country for the discerning traveler. Partnering with Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading safari and Conservation Company & Beyond, this was a first ever initiative to bringing a truly remarkable guided experience to the Indian jungles. Tajsafaris were the first in the country to introduce professionally trained naturalists and specially designed safari vehicles to help enhance the Indian jungle experience. The lodges are surrounded by large private wilderness areas and share boundaries with the national parks. The architecture of the lodges as well as the cuisine celebrates local influences, giving the guest a true insight into a different world. A safari package with Tajsafaris includes, all meals, two safaris a day, in-house wines, taxes and laundry. The limited jungle plan, is for people on holiday who do not drink and want a single safari a day, leaving the other half of the day free to enjoy the beautiful lodge, or leisurely birding trips, nature walks etc. The nature walks are during day light hours. However, if guests are keen their expert naturalist can take them on a night walk within the premises of the lodge. The lodges having large wilderness areas, ranging from 20 acres to 200 acres offer huge possibilities. On a night/late evening walk, guests would most likely be able to see deer, and a host of night birds like night jars, owls and the nocturnal creatures like civets and fruit bats etc.

GOA & BEYOND - PASHAN GARH, TAJ SAFARIS

Pashan Garh at Panna National Park. Panna National Park has been in the news for the last few years for all the right reasons. This park with the dramatic landscape of deep gorges, waterfalls and the Ken River is hailed as a success story for tiger conservation. In 2008 all tigers in this park were declared extinct. However, 5 Tigers from various parks were introduced. The project met with huge success, and tiger numbers have since swelled to over 25! This dry and rocky park is also home to a variety of birds and boasts a fabulous vulture sightings with 7 reported species. The other animals that abound are deer, Indian gazelle, Blue bull, monkeys, crocodiles and a bunch of others. Among the predators there can be leopards, wild dogs, jungle cats, hyenas, jackals etc. the bird count is also more than 250 birds. Pashan Garh means the stone house. The lodge is a mere 35 kms from Khajuraho, the famous World Heritage Site, renowned for its 85 sandstone temples that dates back a thousand years. Pashan Garh shares a boundary with the buffer areas of the Panna National Park, the property is set on a 200 acre property with just 12 cottages and a vast private wilderness. Herds of deer, antelope, flocks of birds and sometimes jackals can often be spotted. Every cottage has a spacious courtyard with a gazebo that has friezes of sculpture from the Khajuraho temples.

GOA & BEYOND - PASHAN GARH, TAJ SAFARIS

All suites have private veranda & gazebo, luxurious bathrooms with huge central showers and twin hand basins. The overall design is stony and rough-hewn, with white marble, leather, ebony and chocolate highlights. The room has a king sized bed with a leather head stead and leather covered table. A deep window seat running the entire length of the room beside a fire place with the portrait of a Langur taking place of pride. Crochet lamps over the window seat cast a demure light and jars of chocolate chip cookies are at hand to munch while lounging at this cozy spot. A uniquely designed electric fan made of bamboo with a monkey cheekily perched on the fan rod is the quirky element for these cottages. Both the room and the shower areas have large windows that open out into the wilderness and offer uninterrupted views of the wilderness around. Some of the cottages face a large seasonal lake to which birds and little mammals flock to drink. A nature walk ending with a sundowner and visit to the quaint panna town is a must do at Pashan Garh.

GOA & BEYOND - PASHAN GARH, TAJ SAFARIS

GOA & BEYOND - TAJ SAFARIS

Mahua Kothi Located a few minutes’ drive away from the gate of the famous Bandhavgarh National Park, Bandhavgarh nestled among the picturesque Vindhya Hills and lush tropical forests, is one of India’s most scenic national parks. With Thick Sal forest interspersed with grasslands, a large variety of animals one of the highest densities of tigers in India. Mahua Kothi is built on the lines of the local style of architecture. The name Mahua Kothi draws its inspiration from the Mahua or butter tree. Mahua holds place of pride among the local communities for the multiple uses of its products. ‘Kothi’, means homestead. The lodge comprises of 12 Kutiyas (jungle village huts) built in the 40 acre grounds with Sal tree thickets, a huge grassland and lily pond. Each suite is accessed through private courtyards with shaded seating and traditional mud floors. The suites are completed with wooden shutters, tapered mud coloured walls (finished by hand) in lime and earth washes, open rafters with roughly hewn wooden beams, handmade pottery roof tiles, floors dressed in katni stone strips set in lime mortar. The cottages have hand plastered mud walls washed with lime. The roof has wooden beams with locally baked tiles. The décor is rustic with hues of orange and saffron to contrast with the various shades of green outside. There is a bath and a shower with twin basins set on a huge log in front of a large glass window which gives the feeling of living in with nature. The courtyard is done up in a vibrant orange with a couple of sting cots, bolsters cushions and a table for two. A small shrine with a basil leaf in the centre of the courtyard further adds the touch of a typical

GOA & BEYOND - MAHUA KOTHI, TAJ SAFARIS

GOA & BEYOND -GOA MAHUA KOTHI, TAJ SAFARIS & BEYOND - LONDON

village home. Small alcoves with local motifs and concealed lighting in the courtyard and the room enhance the romance of the evening. Guests may return from an evening drive to find candles, a drawn bath and wine to end the day’s adventure. The guest areas are housed in one building or the ‘kothi’. This has a deep verandah overlooking a large grassy meadow with chairs and recliners on two levels for guests to drink in the surrounding views. The “Baghiya” is the organic kitchen garden with intimate tables scattered among the guava trees. The mud floor is smoothened with cow dung paste. String cots for guests to sit on are arranged around a bonfire and drinks are served from a cart. A row of ‘chulhas’ for freshly made rotis which are served puffed up from the hot coals onto the plates. A must do is a Baghiya dinner at Mahua Kothi while a group of dancers from the Baiga tribe whose drum beats cause everyone’s feet to tap. The food served at the lodge is culinary safari in its own right. The lodge has a huge kitchen garden with a variety of herbs, vegetables and fruits like guava, banana and mangoes growing. Guests are encouraged to pick their own vegetables for a green salad or a dish. Drawing from lcal flavours, the food served is fresh and light and caters to both the Indian and western palates. Bandhavgarh National Park. Bandhav garh, is literally a majestic park, with tall hills, sal tree thickets interspersed with large grassy meadows and remnants of ancient architecture which includes a 35 foot statue of a reclining lord Vishnu. Bandhavgarh was the private hunting grounds of the Maharajah of Rewa who also became famous for breeding white tigers. The park is currently considered one of the top spots in the world for a chance to spot tigers in the wild.

GOA & BEYOND - MAHUA KOTHI, TAJ SAFARIS

Mรถvenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers unveils urban hospitality at its best in the midst of New Dubai

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GOA & BEYOND - MÖVENPICK HOTEL JUMEIRAH LAKES TOWERS, DUBAI

Contemporary, modern and elegantly understated, the Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers offers a haven of relaxation in Dubai, based in the dynamic residential and commercial quarter, Jumeirah Lakes Towers. An upscale destination for dining, recreation and business, Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers serves up the finest this fast-forward city has to offer. Dubai’s key business districts and commercial free zones are in close proximity, while the iconic Palm Jumeirah, Burj Khalifa, pristine beaches, popular golf courses and major attractions are all within easy reach. 101

With expansive views of the Dubai Marina skyline and the tranquil waters of the lakes, the MĂśvenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers rooms are warm, modern and distinctly stylish, the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rooms range from elegant Superior and Deluxe Rooms, to Premium Rooms and Suites offering an extra measure of personalised convenience for corporate and leisure guests.

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GOA & BEYOND - MÖVENPICK HOTEL JUMEIRAH LAKES TOWERS, DUBAI

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SOCIAL by HEINZ BECK Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeriah

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Heinz Beck, Italy’s world-renowned Celebrity Chef, defines fine-casual dining at its best with an informal yet luxurious ambiance in an urban-resort setting. Priding itself on being the ideal venue for every affair, from birthdays and celebrations to romantic rendezvous, the outlet oozes sophistication and class. Inspired by the design of many favoured outlets in New York and positioned as the place to be ‘seen’ in a cosmopolitan city, Social has an extensive menu of creative concoctions and offers something truly unique to the U.A.E. Social also features a scenic outdoor terrace to enjoy al fresco dining during the cooler months of the year. 107

LAO

Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeriah 108

GOA & BEYOND - WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

A unique and contemporary Southeast Asian dining experience at Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah offering a bespoke concept that brings the best of oriental cuisine to the UAE. With a team handpicked from the cooking schools of Southeast Asia and inspired by the ancient Lao tribe that populated South Asia in the first Millennium, LAO takes food lovers on an exotic journey, offering a new interpretation of delectable flavours from Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia and Malaysia. Chef de Cuisine Mai uses flavours, spices, and unique culinary ideas to create a bold, innovative, and contemporary mouth-watering menu. 109

MEZZE RIE Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeriah

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A luxurious canvas subtly encompassing Arabic design elements, this brassiere exudes an ambiance of elegance while guests indulge in cuisines from across the globe and relish local ingredients. With sumptuous breakfast, lunch, brunch and dinner buffets with live cooking stations, Mezzerie is the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main dining restaurant with an extensive range of signature dishes and international delicacies, accommodating all tastes and preferences.

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FRIDAY BRUNCH - WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

This October, the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah will launch three distinct brunch offerings. The Waldorf Astoria Brunch is a classic brunch occasion, inspired by the New York tradition, for all to enjoy with delicacies from across the globe, whilst LAO and Social by Heinz Beck will be providing their own unique spin on this Dubai dining tradition. A Southeast Asian feast will be served up at LAO and an innovative fine-casual dining brunch will be offered at Social by Heinz Beck. The Waldorf Astoria Brunch presents the New York-inspired brunch, with an abundant selection of international cuisines from around the world, catering to guests with discerning taste. This signature brunch will showcase highlights from the Waldorf Astoria New York culinary legacy and includes foie gras, truffle-crusted grilled scallops, escargot and grilled seafood in addition to the Waldorf classics as Waldorf salad, eggs benedict with poached lobster and traditional roasts. The pièce de résistance of the dessert experience is Waldorf Astoria New York’s most famous dessert, the Red Velvet Cake; this velvety rich layered red chocolate cake has played the lead role in many different classic movies. Vibrant entertainment in the form of a Jazz duo, a special kid’s buffet featuring a candy floss trolley, and fun activities for the little ones will keep guests of all ages entertained as they dine. The Waldorf Astoria Brunch creates a truly unforgettable occasion for the entire family both in indoor and al fresco setting overlooking the gardens. 112

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F R I DAY S B E G I N H E R E

THREE BRUNCHES. ONE WALDORF ASTORIA.

Lamb rack with zucchini flavored with fresh mint Social by Heinz Beck 113

FRIDAY BRUNCH - WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

to d e t i n inv Asia e res ar east u t s ur outh fea dim h S isse c o n un ure ic nd con thent e br ignat d a n, ry au . Th of s afoo rchi lina an u n se ea u rder AO C y t L lectio al, o j r, s to o fers a e v e t i en ch s s r f e ar n g lob mad ion o wn h bru otatin on t it A sta r pra ith r up tion w ops. o h o a w s ta scall ese P ken s es s m l i u d c s est i o m m u d h i o a c n h G n la sas ns a l Vietn eef, s of ts. Ă w b f t e n a a pr ition n of e typ nime on o esser i t d d ane a tra lectio d thr omp selec as a e Asi he c n s l c l a a y a t a m as we porar e by h hs al t o o r c br ition se f ses tem elcom brun r d n o u a o o s tr ch in co ng c he w s thi e. n a turi a . T ake rienc c m s r u m e te ea car ion f flavo elier ic exp t d t sec ence somm then u u infl n tea and a a Asi ique n au

LAO

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The distinctive fine-casual dining concept of Social by Heinz Beck, exudes an ambiance of class in its urban-resort setting. Guests are invited to indulge in a contemporary brunch featuring innovative cuisine indicative of Chef Heinz Beckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian culinary approach. Upon arrival, a selection of fresh antipasti will be served guests can then enjoy the various live cooking stations and an Ă la carte main course. There will be a classic oyster station where oysters will be freshly opened by the shucker, along with a rotating selection of hand-made pastas and a sumptuous carving station. Finally, the sweet section will feature signature Heinz Beck desserts in miniature form as well as a made-to-order nitrogen ice cream or sorbet. During the cooler months the brunch will be a delight for al fresco aficionados with the stunning views from the terrace of the Palm Jumeirah.

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Lobster medallions with spring salad and papaya Social by Heinz Beck 117

GOA & BEYOND - PEACOCL ALLEY, WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

PEACOCK ALLEY Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeriah 118

Inspired by the social promenade that connected the original Waldorf and Astoria hotels, Peacock Alley perfectly fuses luxury with a touch of legacy. Located on the upper lobby of the hotel with 180 degree views of the Arabian Gulf, Peacock Alley is the ideal lounge to enjoy afternoon tea while sipping on flavoursome teas from across the globe. Light snacks are also available to tantalize the taste buds and keep hunger at bay. Peacock Alley further features a large outdoor terrace from which to enjoy the Palmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magical sunsets.

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This poolside dining venue is the epitome of tranquillity, providing the ultimate escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. The contemporary European venue is nestled in the lush gardens and overlooks the pristine, private pool and beach of the five star luxury abode. Guests can kick back, relax and enjoy indoor and outdoor seating. Hearty dishes as well as light bites are served and patrons can sip on tasty mocktails and cocktails while soaking up the Arabian rays and beautiful views of the Palm shoreline. 120

GOA & BEYOND - PALM AVENUE, WALDORF ASTORIA DUBAI PALM JUMEIRAH

PALM AVENUE Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeriah 121

NOSH

Guests can fuel up with delicious Ă la carte favourites or enjoy daily themed buffets of global proportions, inventively imagined, creatively cooked and fantastically flavoured, nosh blends an array of traditional favourites with fashionable new plates. A vast and varied landscape of Indian cuisine, bold spices and big tastes from around the globe and morsels of fresh sushi and sashimi will surprise even the most travelled taste buds. Friday brunches at nosh is a double treat with some of the best food from around the world. If a lunch brunch is too early guests can drop by later for the evening brunch. The Lakeside views of nosh offer the options of an alfresco terrace or an indoor setting with open kitchens and for guests looking to an intimate gathering, a private dining room seats up to 12 guests, making it ideal for memorable events. Essential, delicious and welcoming, culinary expertise doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get any better than nosh.

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GOA & BEYOND - Mร VENPICK HOTEL JUMEIRAH LAKES TOWERS, DUBAI

Mรถvenpick Hotel Jumeirah Lakes Towers 123

Grand Hyatt Goa wins Best 5 Star Resort Hotel at 8th Annual Today’s Traveller Award Receiving another accolade of excellence, Grand Hyatt Goa has garnered the ‘Best 5 Star Resort Hotel’ Award at the 8th Annual Today’s Traveller Award held on 16 September, 2014 at The Ashok, New Delhi. Grand Hyatt Goa, the only hotel from Goa to receive recognition at the awards has grown exponentially within three years of its opening. Redefining luxury & comfort at the heart of Goa, this lavish 5-star resort and spa rightly deserves this award, for catering to every guests need, be it leisure or corporate guests. “We are thrilled to receive the ‘Best 5 Star Resort Hotel’ Award at the 8th Annual Today’s Traveller Award. Grand Hyatt Goa has not only been instrumental in bringing into Goa the major corporate events, but is also being recognised as the best resort for leisure and relaxation. It is indeed a great honour that our resort is not only well-liked and admired by our guests but has been recognised by the industry as well”, said Jaco Le Roux, General Manager, Grand Hyatt Goa. 124

Kamal Gill - MD of GICPL, Jaco Le Roux - General Manager, Grand Hyatt Goa, Shripad Naik - Minister of State for Tourism & Culture, Kewal Gill - Chairman of GICPL

Grand Hyatt overlooks the stunning waters of Bambolim Bay, this 17th century inspired Indo-Portuguese palace spreads across 28 acres of tropical gardens and lush lawns that roll down to the water’s edge. One can unwind and relax in splendidly appointed rooms and suites which boost of its private oversized balconies. At Grand Hyatt Goa, you will experience the warmth and hospitality of traditional Goa while you enjoy the fashionable nightlife lounges and savour fine delicacies at the seven renowned restaurants and bars. The award winning Shamana Spa and health club is an exhilarating retreat, with exquisite facilities, a free-form outdoor pool and Goa’s only 25-metre indoor lap pool. Grand Hyatt Goa also houses India’s only 5-star resort sailing centre - Aquasail, offering an ultimate world class sailing experience as well as certified courses. The Today’s Traveller Awards acknowledge and celebrates excellence across all sectors of tourism, corporate and entertainment industries. The awards are recognised as an ultimate hallmark of achievement. 125

Goa’s Heritage through Philately Teotonio R. de Souza presents the Mumbai-based philatelist Milind Kamat Teotonio R. des Souza (TRS): Mr Milind Kamat, may we know your personal background and links with Goa? Milind Kamat (MK): I was born and brought up in Mumbai where I continue to work and live with my family (wife, son and mother). By educational qualification, I am a Certified Management Accountant morphed into an IT professional over period time. My family originates from Anjuna (Mazalwaddo) and Mapusa. It was my grandfather, Dr. Venkatesh Kamat who migrated to Bombay in early 1900’s to study medicine where he eventually practiced and settled down. He was one of the co-founders of the Goa Hindu Association that serviced first generation migrant Goans in Bombay in those days. I have relatives and family friends in Goa, from Pernem to Margão. Although I haven’t lived in Goa, I truly fit to the adage that “You can take a Goan out of Goa but not Goa out of a Goan”. I dream to be there in the later part of my life! TRS: How did you take up philately as your prime hobby? MK: As a school boy, I was fascinated with a gift of small collection mounted in an all-country-type album from a cousin. My mother greatly encouraged me to nurture this hobby, but in those days it was largely an unstructured attempt. Due to curiosity to know different cultures, I started corresponding with pen pals to exchange stamps, postcards (almost 40 countries at one point of time) and emptied my meagre pocket money for the hobby. My initial years of career building caused discontinuity until about 10 years back; I rediscovered my old collection from the attic and found “Portuguese India” stamps and postal covers. I then resolved to focus on this politically ‘extinct’ country for two prime reasons: Firstly, no need to track “new” stamp issues (as there would be none). Secondly, opportunity to link the hobby with my keen interest in Goa’s history. However, little did I realize that it would be 126

Milind Kamat

the issuance of stamps, their varieties and errors, as the case may be. At times, there are omissions in the catalogues as the publishers do not wish to take cognizance of the new discoveries. Philatelists also encounter forgeries, which in case of Portuguese India were prevalent in Europe in yesteryears (by Fournier and others). In terms of quality, my collection consists of all genuinely issued stamps, including some of those non-catalogued as well. In terms of its “breadth”, my collection of postal covers consists from pre-stamp era to year 1961 - the cusp period of transfer of power. For stamps, these range from the very first issue of 1871 SERVIÇO TRS: How far have you reached at this moment? POSTAL (fondly called as “Natives”) to the last in How do you quantify your achievement? year 1960, with only a few handful stamps missing MK: My interest in Indo-Portuguese philately that are really hard to find. For example, in some comprises of postage stamps, postally used covers cases, only 3 copies of the stamp are known to and philatelic literature of the erstwhile Portuguese exist: in British, Portuguese museums and one India. My selected period ranges from Pre-stamps with a private collector! I also continue to collect era-to-year 1961. This time-span covers various literature on postal history written in English and transitions when letters were mailed without Portuguese. envelopes, then gradually to usage of “combination Rarities are caused by the factors of short quantity, stamps” of both British and Portuguese India and short period of usage, type of cancellation marks eventually to Indian Union stamps were allowed and in some specific cases, the type of “paper” to be cancelled with colonial “Estado da India” used for printing the stamps. To give a glimpse of postmarks (due to the hastily planned military some of the rarities in my collection, these include: operation?). ● Pre-stamp letters – sent from Bombay to Nova With my experience of last many years, I have Goa (1845) and Goa to Lisbon via Port Alexandra fairly in-depth knowledge about Indo-Portuguese (1859). philately as I invested energies to gain the subject ● 1859 onwards - All 4 different fonts of “GOA” matter knowledge first before serious collecting. I cancellation on Queen Victoria telegraph stamps have also contributed a few short articles to share when the British operated telegraph in Goa. my findings which were published in the UK-based Portuguese Philatelic Society’s bulletin. I am looking ● 1871: Complete set of first “Natives” (Oct 1871) forward to exhibiting my collection in next few years one of them bears (13) “Daman” postmark and about 85 % of NATIVES issued. in a suitable forum. extremely challenging to find some of the specific stamps (out of the 700+) simply because very few copies exist today! The journey to hunt got exciting but often frustrating. As they say, where there is will there is way. Due to busy lifestyle and demanding work/home commitments, it is hard to find spare time. However, I consciously grab time which is available, especially on weekends to read, correspond with other collectors/experts and sieve the collection. My genuine love of the hobby keeps me going. Continuity and collaboration are the keys.

TRS: How do you classify your collection qualitywise? What are the rarities in your collection? MK: Philatelists need to refer to multiple stamp catalogues which are the prime sources that index

● 1898: 4the centenary of Vasco da Gama’s trade route discovery stamps on postally used covers sent from Nova Goa to Raibunder and Aldona to Mapusa. 127

● 1900: A pair of 1 ½ Réis surcharged on 2 Tangas D. Carlos (Mouchon) with surcharge “inversely” printed. This is one of the only two pairs known to exist. ● 1902: 2 Réis surcharged on 8 Réis D. Carlos (Neto) used on a cover. ● 1913/14: Almost full collection of LOCAL REPÚBICA overprinted at Imprensa Nacional and BNU at Panjim (These rare stamps were in use for barely 3 months) TRS: What is the importance of Goan philately as an expression of its historical and cultural heritage?

METROPOLITAN R E P O R T

a connoisseur’s guide to the good life

MK: In 1871, the Portuguese (in India) followed their colonial cousins, the British by issuing adhesive stamps. The engraving of the first set of “NATIVES” was done by a Goan smith named “Govinda Zo” on the design of Jose F. d’assa Castel Branco. This stamp has 33 delicately drawn vertical lines to prevent fraudulent reproduction. The first set of stamps was unique as none of the other colonies had their stamps designed, engraved and printed locally! From a cultural reflection perspective, the stamp themes do not reflect the local culture since local flora, fauna, festivals etc. are missing. Towards the end of rule though, some distinguished Goans featured on stamps such as Dr. Gama Pinto, (1954), Sebastian Dalgado (1955), Felipe Neri Xavier with others (1956). The pre-printed post cards (Bilhete Postal) do reflect pictures of select churches and temples. One can also notice a reflection of historical changes in the Goan economy due to the impact of world events. For example, stamps reflected “change of currency”, first, to equate with British India’s currency system and then with Portugal’s Escudo. The later change was done to indicate that Goa (and other enclaves) were overseas provinces of Portugal. Changes to the nomenclature from ‘Portuguese India’ to ‘Estado da India’ also reflects attempt to strengthen the “claim”.

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The stamps are also testimony to the hard state

literature on Indo Portuguese philately and inability to find likeminded collectors for mutual exchange of information and material. A good amount of philatelic literature is in Portuguese language of which I know few words. I must acknowledge the help from time to time from Dr. Teotonio R. de Souza, Xavier Cota and Vitthal Navelkar on my nagging queries and requests for translations. The other challenge is finding good quality artifacts, most of which have either already gone out of the country or got destroyed in two world wars. It takes time and financial commitments to either keep searching locally or to obtain them at international prices. The last and biggest challenge is the tropical climate which tends to degrade the fragile paper. I struggled to learn preservation of 100+ years old stamps and covers. TRS: What is the state of art of Goan philately at present? Who are best known in the field? MK: In present day India, very few are seriously interested in Indo-Portuguese philately due to lack of awareness or interest. In Goa, the last GOAPEX was held in 1995 and the “Goa Philatelic & Numismatic Society” in Marcela is not much active. The good news is the Post & Telegraph Dept. has started the “bi-weekly Saturday philatelist meet” at Panaji GPO and has plans to conduct workshops. On the global scene, some members of the 3 societies – Portuguese Philatelic Society (PPS, UK), International Society for Portuguese Philately (ISPP, USA) and Clube Filatélico de Portugal (CFP, Portugal) of economy during the 2 World Wars and resultant have phenomenal collections and specialized “stamps famine” which caused “recycled” stamps knowledge of Indo-Portuguese philately. issues with surcharges, re-surcharges and vertical perforations. This experiment was very unique in Prominent names that come to my mind are: Roger the whole world. The airmail letters sent outside Lawson, David Davies, Ron van der Holt, John Goa in late 1950’s are often found inscribed “via Dahl, Martin Vonnegut, Elder Correia, Luís Frazão, Karachi”, reflecting the Indian economic blockade. Bento Dias, and Luis Barreiros. From India, Vitthal In summary, historical impressions are more evident Navelkar, Umesh Kakkeri and Dr. Narendra Saboo have specialized collections. than the cultural impressions. I am quite sure that old cupboards and closets TRS: What have been the difficulties and challenges from many households if searched will reveal new of your philatelic pursuit? discoveries, not to forget that Goa Archives also MK: The most challenging aspects are easy access to need explorers! 129

Waters Beach Lounge & Grill, Goa Sherryl Wiltshire

A single word; heard with your eyes tight shut can revive thoughts, feelings & even step into your subconscious to conjure up those moments & memories of a forgotten yester year. Sometimes it can lead your mind into the depths of your imagination; adding tastes and smells to the palette of your dreams. When you hear the word ‘Waters’ it accelerates you into an ocean, with crystal clear purity and golden sands. Feeling the grains of warmth under you and the frothing bubbles wetting your feet, the only thing that could possibly add to this heaven is a cold cocktail in your hand and the smell of a hot grill blistering with flavour; accentuated with the soft sweet nothings of light music creating an ambience. If you take ‘Waters’ & add ‘Beach Lounge & grill’ to it, you get that imagined paradise at your fingertips. Tucked away looking over the sun, sea and sand of Vagator Beach, Goa; Waters Beach Lounge & Grill offers all of those tantalising moments and feelings the heart desires. As you walk in you can feel the warmth of a Brick oven hidden behind a transparent sheet of glass and mixing aroma of fresh tomato purée, cheese, assortment of vegetables with seafood (*Recommended) - Waters Club Pizza baking away in the furnace waiting for hungry mouths to devour it. Seated on the top level of the ‘7 Levels of timber’ the smell of the pizza is dissolved by specially crafted * Spicy Chicken wings with Blue Cheese Dip that melts in your mouth, leaving you licking your fingers and wanting more.

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As you walk down to the bar below you cant help but take a peak at the various dishes that are couriered up and down, from deck to deck. Minced shrimp grilled with sugar cane and with a side of green salad (* Chao Tom) or the grilled zucchini stuffed with creamed spinach and broccoli with a topping of basil pesto (*Zucchini Roll). While you decide between the many vegetarian and Non vegetarian quick bites and oven hot melting pizzaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, you end up sitting at the bar parched and wondering, The *Grilled Calamari or a little Indian flavour with a simple *Murgh (chicken) Tikka? 132

A friendly hand with a smile on his face hands over a *Mudslide cocktail, one of over 20 types of cocktail served, to sink into, while you deliberate. One turns into 10 and your well on your way for a night at the Waters Night Club, which plays some of the best Progressive house music and commercial EDM in Goa. *Midori Sours, * Weng Weng and *Daiquiri as some of the cocktails that take that long rested day and turn it into an unforgettable night, with change still left in your pocket for the ride home.

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GO GOA! Heidi Fuller-love G o a’ s Po r t u g u e s e culinary influence Travel writer Heidi Fuller-love’s (www.heidifuller-love. com) regular column packed with insider’s tips on how to get the best out of your time in gorgeous Goa. After four hundred years of Portuguese rule it’s hardly surprising that Goan food bears a strong stamp of Portuguese flavours. Ever since Vasco de Gama landed on Goa’s shores in 1498, ingredients, including garlic, chilli peppers, wine and later potatoes have been part of Goa’s staple diet, whilst Indo-Portuguese fusion dishes, like Goan classic vindaloo, have been delighting the local palate for centuries. Here are my top tips for eateries where you can sample the best Goan Portuguese cuisine this gorgeous region has to offer. Most authentic Goan Portuguese fare Brittos What? One of Goa’s oldest restaurants, chef Cajie opened Brittos in the 1960’s and this shack-style eatery now run by his son, Cajeten, serves an exciting range of Goan Portuguese fare. Where? Overlooking the bustling delights of busy Baga beach. Insider’s tip? Order the pork vindaloo or one of the highly spiced pork, or prawn curries and drink plenty of the local-brewed Kings beer. Best home cooked grub Mum’s Kitchen What? With its homey deco and tiled tables, the Martin family’s cosy restaurant is one of Goa’s best-known addresses for home-style cooking. Sourced from local cookbooks, chef Suzette Martin’s spin on traditional Portuguese and Goan recipes makes this restaurant very 134

popular so make sure to book in advance. Where? In a lovely enclosed garden where food is served from designer crockery on tiled tables, in Miramar area of north Goa. Insider’s tip? Order the Catholic Goan harem mas: salted pork with kokum, or some of Suzette’s succulent marinated Goan sausages. Hippest fusion food venue Fusion What? Set in a lush garden fanned by a cool breeze from the sea, this award-winning, rustic style, thatched roof restaurant serves a hip blend of Goan-European cuisine, which reflects a modern take on Goa’s history. Cosy up on low benches covered in rugs and cushions set next to low tables and listen to the mix of Indo-European music, as you sample a variety of Goan-European fusion dishes. Where? In a beautiful garden setting, near Baga beach. Insider’s tip: Don’t miss their fusion thali, a delicious sampler plate of Goan-European titbits served with salad, or their rich and tasty paneer and tofu coconut curry. Best for fine fare Le Poisson Rouge What? One of Goa’s chic-est restaurants, Le Poisson Rouge is a fine-dining venue with a difference. Renowned for its succulent fusion food, the restaurant’s chef takes classic French dishes and combines them with a subtle range of Goan flavours, whilst using only locally sourced seafood, fruit and vegetables. Poisson Rouge also has an extensive wine list and a wide range of exciting cocktails. Where ? Just opposite the Baga Bridge, in Calangute. Insiders tip? Must try dishes here include the succulent river crab and coconut tempura, the Goan massala served with a rich lobster coulis and the mouthwatering creamy chocolate cake moelleux au chocolat for dessert.

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Shane Ó Néill Culinary Royalty With a flair for Irish and French cuisine as well as over 15 years of professional cooking and kitchen management experience; Shane Ó Néill is the Executive Chef of Grand Hyatt Goa and an absolute gastronomic mastermind. He started of his larger-than-life career in the year 1994 at Hilton hotels Ireland and UK. His magical skills in the kitchen has taken him to various places across the globe, where he worked with some of the most revered names in the culinary world. Shane has always taken his heritage with him to promote the Irish cuisine and has worked very closely and effortlessly with Enterprise Ireland in the Middle East and China. Shane has applied his gastronomical expertise in hotels such as; The Kairaba Hotel in West Africa, Beach Rotana Hotel and Towers in Abu Dhabi, Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi, Atlantis The Palm Jumeirah, Pudong Shangri-La and Intercontinental Shanghai Puxi. However, his brilliance doesn’t just begin and end in the kitchen but is extended to every aspect of the dining experience. 136

Rolled Salmon & herb cream finger sandwiches Ingredients: 250g light cream cheese 2 tablespoons dill leaves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives 1/2 lemon, or lime, rind finely grated, juiced 16 slices whole meal bread or white bread 50 gm of sliced cucumber long ways 400g sliced smoked salmon Method: Place cream cheese, dill, chives, lemon rind and 1 teaspoon lemon juice in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper, Stir until well combined. Lightly spread 1 side of each piece of bread with cream cheese mixture. Top 8 with salmon Sandwich with remaining bread Using a sharp knife, remove crusts and cut each sandwich roll with your fingers. Arrange on a serving plate and Enjoy! Recipe Chef Shane Ă&#x201C; NĂŠill

Executive Chef, Grand Hyatt Goa 137

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Chilled Asparagus Soup Yogurt Recipe Chef Shane Ă&#x201C; NĂŠill

Executive Chef, Grand Hyatt Goa

Ingredients: 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 400g asparagus, finely chopped 500ml hot chicken stock (vegetarians may substitute vegetable stock) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 150g of yoghurt Method: Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry for four minutes, until softened. Add the asparagus and cook for another two minutes. Add the stock and bring to the boil. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper and reduce the heat to simmer for 5-7 minutes, until the asparagus is cooked through. Add the yoghurt and blend with a hand blender until smooth. And chill, till cooled and serve.

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Tagliatelle, Caramelized Garlic & Mushrooms with Tomato Sauce Serves 4 Ingredients: 320g Fresh tagliatelle 80ml Extra virgin olive oil 250g Champignon or crimini mushrooms 40g Garlic cloves, peeled 15g Basil Salt, to taste For Tagliatelle 750g white flour 250g Semolina flour 6 Whole eggs 4 Egg yolks 1 tbsp Olive oil 2 tbsp White wine Salt to taste 30g Extra flour for rolling the dough For tomato sauce 1kg Whole peeled tomatoes 1 Onion peeled 30g Garlic cloves peeled 15g Basil 2 tsp Extra virgin olive oil Salt and black pepper, to taste Sugar, if needed, a pinch

- Dust with flour the sheets and gently fold them. - With a sharp knife cut the tagliatelle ½ cm width. - Arrange in the traditional nest shape and leave to dry. Method of preparation for tomato sauce: - Thinly slice the garlic and onion. In a heavy skillet add the extra virgin olive oil and heat it up. - Add onion and cook it till is translucent, about 2 minutes. Slice thinly the garlic as well and add it up to the garlic, together with the basil, grossly chopped (reserve few leaves to garnish the plate). - You should not cook it together, by the time the onion is ready the garlic will be burnt. - Cook till the onion is translucent as well, and then add the tomatoes. Cook over medium heat for about 40 minutes, stirring it every now and then. It should reduce at least by a third. - Remove from the fire and then with a whisk crush the whole peeled tomatoes. - Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, and if you feel some acidity in the sauce correct it with the sugar. To assemble the dish:

- In a deep skillet bring abundant water to boil. - Add the tagliatelle and mix with a fork. - Cook it for 3-4 minutes and strain, reserving little Method of preparation for Tagliatelle: cooking water, about 50 ml. - In the meantime wash, strain and slice the - Mix the flour with semolina. - Make a well on a table with the flours, first add wine mushrooms. and oil and then eggs one by one, incorporating it - Place a wide sauté pan over high fire, add the slowly, with a circular movement of the hand. The extra virgin olive oil and once it hot had the garlic dough should be quite hard by now. Knead it for cloves and sliced mushrooms. Cook for few minutes few minutes. To have a smoother texture you can over high fire so that the mushrooms caramelize. place few drops of oil in the palm of your hands in - Add the tagliatelle in the pan with cooking water, salt and sauté for one minute. the last minute of kneading. - Now cover and leave the dough to rest in a cool - Place the tomato sauce at the bottom of the plate, add the tagliatelle over it, garnish with basil leaves place for 2 hours. - With a rolling pin, or the pasta machine, roll the and serve. Enjoy! Recipe Chef Saulo Bacchilega dough into sheets 2 mm thick. Executive Chef, Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa

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SIGNATURE DISHES

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Recipe Chef Saulo Bacchilega

Executive Chef, Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa 142

Tiramisu Serve 6 Ingredients: 4 medium size Eggs 120g Caster sugar 500g Mascarpone cheese 80ml Marsala wine 80ml Coffee 16 to 20 Savoiardi biscuits* Method: Separate the yolks from the egg whites. Beat the yolks and the sugar. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt till it acquires firm fluffiness.

If not available over the counter, please follow the recipe below: Ingredients: 150g Egg whites 145g Caster sugar Salt a pinch 130g Egg yolks 170g Flour Few drops of Vanilla essence 200g Icing sugar (for dusting) Method of Preparation: Whisk egg yolks with half of the castor sugar and vanilla essence until the amount has doubled.

Add the mascarpone to the yolks and sugar, slowly Whisk the egg whites with salt until soft peaks form, mix well, and then incorporate the egg whites. Add then gradually add other half of sugar and beat until stiff, almost like a meringue. Slowly incorporate it the Marsala to the coffee. to egg yolk mixture. Very quickly dip the savoiardi in the mixture of coffee and marsala and lay them out in the mould. Add a Using your hands gently fold in flour. Collect it in a layer of mascarpone cream on the top, continue to piping bag with large nozzle. add alternate layers of mascarpone with layers of Butter and dust baking tray with flour, squeeze out savoiardi. Finish with a layer of mascarpone cream. the mixture from piping bag to form 10-12 cm Keep refrigerated, and serve sprinkled with cacoa lines. powder. Dust the icing sugar on top of the lady finger and *Savoiardi is Italian biscuits, very light and porous. bake them at 170째C for 15 min.

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Raspberry Financiers

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Ingredients: 195g Icing Sugar 75g Almond Powder 225g Flour Refined (Maida) 1g Salt 5g Vanilla essence 6g Baking Powder 210g Egg White 210g Butter Unsalted 150g Raspberryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Frozen Method Place the butter into a pot and bring to boil. Cook the butter until it turns slightly brown. Remove the butter from the heat and strain through a paper towel. Let Butter cool down before using it in the cake Mixture. Mix the dry ingredients together. Add the egg whites into the dry ingredients and mix well. Add the brown Butter into the mixture and combine well Pipe the Financier mixture into individual Silpat Baking Mats. Place some frozen Raspberryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on top before baking. Bake at 210 C for 8-10 minutes until the sides turn golden brown.

Recipe Chef Nicole Illa

Executive Pastry Chef, Grand Hyatt Goa

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FESTA

Grand Mercure Goa Shrem Resort

Festa is a 100 seating all day dining restaurant, serving Global cuisine with a local twist. The Al fresco dining area offers a courtyard like ambiance and overlooks the vitality pool, banyan tree and lush green paddy fields. With a breakfast, lunch and dinner buffet as well as A la Carte options, Festa showcases an array of international flavors and local favorites.

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NORTH CAFÉ

North16 GOA, Calangute 148

When one thinks of Goa, one of the first things that comes to mind is FOOD. The fresh seafood and the mouth-watering vindaloos, Goan cuisine is popular all over India but moreover it is known for welcoming versatile cuisines for the hungry traveller. The kitchen team at North16 GOA Resort are definitely right on track. There are three main F&B outlets to cater to you in the best possible way. The North Café, an all-day-dining restaurant has a wide selection of cuisines and special food promotions. The North Café provides a lavish breakfast spread from Indian & Continental cuisines to choose from, live stations for the Indian favourite Dosa and all kinds of egg, pancakes and waffles! Guests also have a choice of outdoor seating overlooking the beautiful poolside. This café serves an array of cuisines and is a hub for Food Festivals ranging from European to Rajasthani food.

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CafĂŠ Mardi Gras Quality food and drink has been an important feature of the Holiday Inn Resort Goa. Nowhere is this more evident than at the Mardi Gras - a 24 hour indoor and outdoor coffee shop offering an a la carte menu of traditional Goan, Indian and Continental cuisine, as well as a much appreciated Buffet Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner.

Cafe Mardi Gras

Holiday Inn Resort Mobor Beach Goa 150

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LOVE

THE PARK Calangute,Goa 152

Unique design elements, attention to luxurious comfort, distinctive dining and entertainment concepts make us a refreshing experience for travelers from around the world. Savor the sight of our Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specials being prepared in the open kitchen while you enjoy our Bartenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classics with some chilled out music. This breezy and comfortable restaurant also gives you direct access to the beach and to the swimming pool.

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This seafront property features an open-air lounge, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Peaceâ&#x20AC;? where you can unwind with a frozen tropical daiquiri after a long day of touring the neighbourhood attractions. Sip and take in the breath taking view of the ocean. Count the beverages, the hours left in the day while watching the sunset.

PEACE

THE PARK Calangute,Goa 154

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Cape Town Café The hippest place in Goa Walking up Tito’s road young can’t miss the large crowd gathered near this resto bar. With no place to sit guests mill over on the road, still happy to enjoy the music and general ambience that extends beyond its premises. This café has become the answer for the thirst or hungry tourist as well as the local who simply wants to sit back and enjoy the fun filled night out. Cape Town Café has already become the ‘must’ place to be for the fun and beautiful people, either tourists visiting Goa or locals looking to have a good night out! Divided into four basic areas, Cape Town’s three sided bar offers the best view of the place as well as the popular street adjacent. Friendly bar tenders are always ready to chat and offer travel advice and are equally quick within their service. If you want to sit back with friends and enjoy a little privacy while not missing out on the entertaining crowd, the picnic styled tables and benches as well as the lounge sofas are your best bet. The comfy couches at the café give way to the music, warm lighting & cool breeze coax you to snuggle up over a drink and the food from Regi’s kitchen is highly recommended. This can be quite a pleasant/quieter night at Cape Town Café. The focus on good food and ambience in the dance area and private sections is apparent and there’s more to keep the guests at their feet. Chill out with more than a couple of drinks while watching football matches & music videos on the wall mounted LCD’s screens Cape Town Café brings a new way into night clubbing. The best sound system in town and international guest DJs along with India’s best local talent come together to a space that brings its guests not just good music, but a total clubbing experience. Commercial, House, Hip Hop, Electro, Dubstep are the popular genres of music in demand, take over then with people of all ages making their way to the indoor dance area to shake off their weekday stress and simply enjoy the CTC experience. The hippest place in town located in famous Tito’s road, this famous bar is the most popular bet for a memorable night in Goa! 156

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Asmita Studio Goa, India.

Public Profile www.dattaram-gawade.artistwebsites.com 160

Contact: +91 90494 41177/dattagawade@gmail.com www.asmitastudio.com

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