WO'GOA something is always brewing...July 2014 Issue by WG Magazines

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; W GOA O

JULY 2014

something is always brewing

Orlando de Noronha

Azulejos de Goa

Vasco Pinho

A farewell to the Goa of Old

Teotonio de Souza

Unwrapping Goan Identity

Geeta Vara

Bringing Yoga & Ayurveda Back To Its Roots

Eco Tourism in Goa

Baron Wolman

WOODSTOCK THE ROLLING STONE YEARS www.wogoa.in

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Editor Fabian deCastro Associate Editor Ryan Largo-Afonso Feature Editor Vijaya Pais Creative Consultant Datta Gawade Contributors Teotonio R. de Souza Vasco Pinho Selma Carvalho Jasmine Chopra Heidi Fuller-Love Joachim Haider Geeta Vara Photographers Jasmine Chopra Datta Gawade Heidi Fuller-Love Creative Design Studio FJM design Website Content Joel Savio Nazareth Publisher

IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India tel: +91 (832) 2463234 fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 © IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in WO’GOA™ digital publication do not necessarily reflect the views of IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. WO’GOA™ and IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. can not be held responsible for any inaccuracies or errors and do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. All contents are strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IZZY Publishing Pvt. Ltd. © 2014 WO’GOA™ All rights reserved

To Advertise Joel Savio Nazereth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in I sales@wogoa.in (Mumbai) Ryan Largo-Afonso Call: +91 99 20370263

image credit Tatva Elements Spa

E D I TO R’ S N OT E

‘ GOA W O ™

something is always brewing

WO’GOA, it began with sharing an idea, that a digital magazine on Goa would be appreciated by a number of people. What took me by surprise was the keen attention it is generating at this evolving stage, among readers of assorted hues including the seasoned and the creative minds as well in India and Internationally from various walks of life. To spell out this appealing quality, we bring to you in this July issue some very relevant and stimulating content of selective interests in mind, which may set your journey or perhaps set you still, in reflection.

the legend himself. It is with pleasure we announce, Professor Teotonio R. de Souza, the renowned Indo-Portuguese historian and most prominent research scholar who heads the Department of History at the Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, in Lisbon, will address a regular column of history and its cultural influences on Goa.

Introducing two very exciting books from the legendary photographer Baron Wolman, Rolling Stone Magazine’s First Chief Photographer. “THE ROLLING STONE YEARS” and “WOODSTOCK”, that are beautiful picture narratives through his lenses.

The specially edited article for WO’GOA, ‘Unwrapping Goan Identity’, is chapter three of Teotonio de Souza‘s latest book ‘Goa Outgrowing Postcolonialism’- Historical Explorations (19612014) which will be released mid-August in Goa. Vasco Pinho’s nostalgic essay ‘A Farewell to the Goa of Old’, is a historical sketch of Goa and in particular of Panjim city. These touching memories of the dwindling traditions, may be inspirational to some in some way.

In the book ‘WOODSTOCK’, Baron Wolman captured the experiences and energetic atmosphere of Woodstock like no other photographer, stunning black and white photographs of the Woodstock published for the first time.

In these times of new age of digital communication, Dr. Fransisco Colaco’s wonderful piece ‘Serenatas de Amor’, reminiscences of his serenading days gets us to join him on the joyous times and theme with music, song and hope as instruments of romance, friendship, and perhaps falling in love.

‘THE ROLLING STONE YEARS’, features the exclusive work of Baron Wolman, images from the late sixties and early seventies have become iconic shots from the rock and roll most fertile era. Along with scores of classic photos, is Baron’s first-hand account of the magazine’s early years and his memorable encounters with the rock stars of the day.

This issue also features excellent contemporary photography of town and country, island of Divar and also covers some great spas, dining out and much more.

It would be amiss to pass up this opportunity, order your copies today, which will be autographed by

Fabian deCastro Editor

WO’GOA - expressing GOA is a pursuit we delight in, you make it more fulfilling, hence something is always brewing… enjoy this issue.

‘ GOA W O ™

Goa...always green 8

something is always brewing

CONTENTS 12

Baron Wolman “The Rolling Stone Years” & “WOODSTOCK”

Azulejos de Goa

Divar Island

Lucie Masson

36 40

A Farewell to the Goa of Old

A Nuvem Balcão and the talented M. Boyer

Unwrapping Goan Identity

MEMORARE

Serenatas de Amor

Eco Tourism in Goa

62 66

In conversation with Teotonio R. de Souza

What makes a Spa necessary and successful?

Ruins of Divar - Contemporary Photography

Viva San Joao!

102

Spa’s

112

Staying Experience

120

GO GOA

122

Dining Out

Bringing Yoga & Ayurveda Back To Its Roots

contributors Heudi Fuller-Love From food reviewer for Asia Life in Cambodia, to trainee gaucho on a farm in Argentina, food, travel and lifestyle writer/photographer Heidi Fuller-love regularly contributes to 68+ publications (including her own French website Femme Voyageur) and travels the world for her award-winning city/country guide show for British Airways inflight radio. A regular Goa visitor, Heidi Fuller-love has penned guides to the region for Trip Advisor and countless other publications.

Teotonio R. de Souza An Indo-Portuguese historian, researcher and columnist. Fellow of the Portuguese Academy of History and Sociedade de Geografia de Lisboa. Founder-Director of the Xavier Centre of Historical Research (1979-1994). Head and Chair, Dept. of History, Universidade Lus贸fona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisboa (since 1996).

Jasmine Chopra Mumbai born, Goa raised, Konkani speaking Anglo-Indian Jasmine returned to India after 10 years in the UK pursuing her studies in Tourism and gaining professional experience. During her time there, she developed a flair for writing, photography and volunteer work. Her passion took her deep into the indigenous rainforest of Costa Rica for community work and gave her a love of the Spanish language. A stickler for linguistics she has a repertoire of hotels, publications and travel. She divides her time between England, France and India but Goa, according to her is where the roots are. Joachim Haider came to Goa in 2006 from Germany and the first thing Joachim Haider invested in was a Bullet (a motorbike) and he began to explore Goa over the weekends, where he fell in love with the place. When work as an architect started to get stifling, Joachim decided to try something different in the field and in 2012 joined a young architectural company based in Panaji called Organic Arts and Architecture, as their head designer. Today Joachim lives in Goa with his Indian wife Sadhana, and enjoys trekking to exploring the Goan hinterland.

Geeta Vara Inspired by her Indian roots, British born Ayurvedic Practitioner, Geeta Vara strongly believes in a holistic approach to wellbeing and helping others find the root cause of their health issues. She empowers each person on their journey of optimal health through self-awareness and conscious shifts towards desirable habits.

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“THE ROLLING STONE YEARS” Every Picture Tells A Story – Baron Wolman, The Rolling Stone Years 176 pages, 12 x 10 ½ inches • US$37.95 + Shipping from the U.S. To order one or more autographed copies, contact the author at baron@baronwolman.com

Baron Wolman not only witnessed what is without a doubt the most important period of change in popular music and popular culture, but his photographs helped shape it. Rolling Stone magazine encapsulated and distilled the most important events and changes as they were taking place. Each issue would speak to this evolving youth culture in a language that was all its own and Baron’s photos captured the events and personalities, and visualized the music. The 176 pages of “The Rolling Stone Years” are filled with photos and text. Some of the photos have never been seen; none of the words have ever been read – other than by Baron and the editors, of course. It’s a picture book with text, the stories behind the photos. “For years I’ve been asked to talk about the photos, how they came to be, what happened on assignment at the various shoots. This book answers those questions and more. I and my camera were fortunate to be around at a seminal time in the history of our country and the music business. The book is my ‘thank you’ for the privilege. “I was living in San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury and working as a photo-journalist in 1967, when a fortuitous meeting with Jann Wenner, the founder of Rolling Stone, resulted in my becoming the publication’s first chief photographer. From Issue Number One and for nearly three years thereafter, my photographs were published regularly in Rolling Stone and became the magazine’s graphic centerpiece. The collection of pictures and the stories behind them in the book represents some of the most significant artists and events of the period.” 13

“WOODSTOCK” Unseen photographs from the most famous music festival of all time. Baron Wolman and Michael Lang Foreword by Carlos Santana 192 pages, 11-3/4 x 10 inches • US$49.95 + Shipping from the U.S. To order one or more autographed copies, contact the author at baron@baronwolman.com

"Woodstock showed the world how things could have been, and for this reason it's important that we never forget this experience, this place, this time, this dream that came true, if only for three days..." Baron Wolman’s stunning black and white photographs of Woodstock are published here for the first time. The majority of the images have never before been seen. The photos are accompanied by text featuring an interview with Wolman and Woodstock creator, Michael Lang, and a foreword by guitarist Carlos Santana. Wolman captured the experience and atmosphere of Woodstock like no other photographer. More interested in the crowd than the performers, his photographs are hugely evocative and offer an insight into this legendary event that is rarely seen. "I ended up spending most of my time out in the wild with the crowd because what was happening out there was just too interesting not to explore. "The thing to remember about the 60s, even near the end in ’69, was that everything was totally different, the behavior was new and unexpected. Plus, the 1960s were simply wildly photogenic in every way imaginable...the changes that were taking place in the heads of the people were visually manifested. I mean, how could you not take pictures?" Baron Wolman began his music photography career as the original, first photographer of the new Rolling Stone magazine in 1967. He went on to capture the 1960s pop rock explosion including Janis Joplin, the Who, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, the Grateful Dead and Bob Dylan, among many, many more. 15

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Azulejos de Goa Text Vijaya Pais

e make our way through the winding streets of Panjim in search of the artist behind the art form called ‘Azulejos’- an art that perfectly mirrors the rich Indo-Portuguese culture of yore. We find him in his quaint 250 year old Portuguese bungalow across the famous Clube Nacional.

Orlando de Noronha creator of Azulejos de Goa a home grown business that has tile by tile added to the beauty of Goa

Orlando de Noronha and his wife Tina’s world of art come to life on walls of their gallery cum home. Beautiful, hand painted ceramic tiles, steeped in cultural heritage adorn the gallery. As you make your way up the stairs you almost get taken away to Alfama, a magical district in Lisbon, Portugal. A picture postcard setting characterized by its narrow cobbled streets, little white washed houses with tiled roofs, wrought iron balconies adorned with flower pots, drying laundry, caged birds and an assortment of pets. Noronha has painstakingly remodeled his 200 square feet space to replicate the little houses of Lisbon fusing it with elements from Goa by using old Goan roof tiles and mother of pearl paneled windows.

Orlando’s passion for Portugal permeates through most aspects of his life. He began his journey as a commercial artist from the Goa college of Art, but the world of advertising came with its fair share of constraints. Orlando then decided to pack his bags and take off to Portugal to study further and hone his passion for his childhood loveThe Portuguese guitar. He enrolled in a language and culture course at the Coimbra University with the scholarship he was awarded by the Fundação Oriente. His stint at the University led to him to realise his unfulfilled dream of learning to play the Portuguese guitar. As destiny would have it, Orlando bumped into Miguel Drago, a Portuguese musician he had played with in Goa as a teen, Drago went on to teach Orlando the finer nuances of playing the beautiful guitar for free. Orlando did not know it at the time, but his stay in Portugal would change the course of his career forever. The Goan family he was staying with introduced him to Fernando Martins an Azulejos artist. The last few months of Orlando’s stay in Portugal were spent in learning the art of Azulejos - a Portuguese word derived from the Arabic ‘Al-Zulaya-Cha’, meaning, ‘a little polished stone’. The Portuguese art form involves painting intricate patterns on white tiles. Azulejos tiles, adorn the inside and outside of almost every home in Portugal, the art form, was introduced to Goa by the Portuguese during their 500 year rule. Orlando moved back to Goa with his first master piece, a portrait of his then girl friend Tina. But Goa proved to be a tough market to crack, nobody had heard of Azulejos. The art was completely abolished when the Portuguese left Goa after the liberation in 1961. The only visible remnants were to be found at the Menezes Braganza hall in Panjim, at the Old Goa church, a school in Canacona and in a few old Portuguese houses. Orlando was raring to go, but getting work was tough, with the only sample of his work being his girlfriend’s portrait and a book of Azulejos art he was gifted by his friends as a parting gift. His big break came finally, when Mr. Joaquim Monteiro the then

General Manager of the Taj Holiday Village commissioned a Goan themed Indo Portuguese mural for the main entrance of the Taj Exotica. Impressed by his work, Monteiro went on to commission a two hundred sq feet pool panel for the hotel depicting sand and sea waves. From then on the work poured in from hotels like the Intercontinental and Club Mahindra among others. Orlando began hand painting mementos, in 2002 which he displayed at his gallery at home, his wife Tina took over as the manager so they could spend more time together after the birth of their son. Orlando now has a work station in Santa Inez where he creates his beautiful pieces of ceramic art. He takes us through the process, explaining in detail the Majollica technique, where the tile is made, glazed and hand painted over with colours sourced from Portugal, the tile is then fired at a high temperature causing the colours to fuse with the tile. The final product is awe inspiring. The pretty patterns in myriad shades are a throwback to the bygone era. Orlando’s gallery in Panjim-Azulejos de Goa, stocks plenty of beautifully hand painted tiles depicting Goa and its people- the toddy tapper, the fisherman and the village baker a subtle reminder of the days gone by. The lower level of the gallery aptly titled ‘Mario’s Balcão’ is dedicated to Mario Miranda’s iconic art, immortalized by Orlando on ceramic tiles. You can also adorn your home with bits of colourful history in the form of customized name plaques, borders, plates, souvenirs like bags and coasters, he also dabbles in corporate and personalized gifting, Orlando has recently introduced designer bathroom basins and designer crockery with customized monograms. You can visit his quaint gallery in Panjim or place your order online through his website: http://www.azulejosdegoa.com

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DIVAR Island Photography & Text

Jasmine Chopra

agnificent domes and turrets tower over the palm trees dotted along the coastline, this is Old Goa and you’ve really stepped back in time. All that surrounds is of the old and all that is new doesn’t seem to matter. The slight jolt of the ferry easing into the dock brings you back to the moment. You have arrived on Divar Island. Nestled some 7 kilometres from the capital and accessible only via water, the short 5 minutes across the Mandovi from a ferry point is completed in the blink of an eye and the journey itself instils you with a sense of adventure having left the ‘mainland’ behind. Of course, those local to the island don’t bat an eyelid at this commute, it is a mere necessity and perhaps, inconvenience at times. It connects them to the rest of Goa while giving them their own little sanctuary away from it all. I wanted to see this partially secluded island for myself after some 10 years of not having visited… and wanted, if even for a day, to take sanctuary there. It was a Sunday and an already slow Goa was showing reluctance to go any faster on this day of rest. Even if the week had offered rest in the form of the daily afternoon siesta, Sunday would bring the mother of all siestas. I arrived on the island, on the back of a scooter, sometime before 9am, as the last of the churchgoers, in their Sunday best, ambled back home in what remained of the cooler morning temperature. Some residents stopping at times at the bakery in the square to purchase patties or croquettes as a morning treat. I devoted the cooler hours of the day to discovering this tiny island. 26

The Portuguese had sparsely yet breathtakingly beautified the island with the construction of elegant villas dating back hundreds of years. Many still maintained and lived in by generations of the same family that originally gave their name to the ‘casas’ themselves. Hispanic sounding surnames are etched on plaques outside each brightly painted residence making each property unique and giving it an identity. The roads, which aren’t much wider than lanes, ooze European decorum fused with the natural beauty of the tropics. My camera remained in my hand for the 3 hours that I spent capturing some of the architecture that reminded me so much of some streets in rural Italy, Spain and Cyprus to an extent. Let me be clear however, 3 hours is not needed to see this island but to really feel it, allow yourself time and moments of reflection. A short way in, in the village of Piedade, the winding path up a steep hill led me to a turnstile gate into the courtyard of one of the most majestic churches I’d laid eyes on in Goa. Perhaps, it was more impressive than the most natured of Goan churches because it retained its charm even through its neglect and peeling façade and the view itself…was stunning. Staring out across the marshlands that surround the island, I could see those very domes I’d left behind at the ferry point and furthermore, the city. This time I saw them from an elevated position making the landscape so captivating that I felt a sense of guilt for not having visited more often. Subtle hints of Hinduism, in the form of a temple at the foot of the hill keep the balance of ethnic Indian culture alive in a once Colonised environment. The churches, chapels and Latin named establishments give nod to a majority Catholic populous on the island. Unsurprisingly, this could be down to the fact that Divar was one of the first areas to be converted to Christianity during the arrival of the Portuguese. All those years ago, when I had previously visited Divar, it was for the festival of Bonderam. Celebrated

with pomp on the fourth Saturday of August during the peak of the monsoon, the island celebrated in a way, its own, rather drenched carnival. A carnival commemorating the fight for land against the Portuguese. Floats from each village demonstrate the strengths and expression of the community who once fought against the ownership of the former colony. If one were to indulge in some Urak (mild form of Feni) drinking during the festivities, they’d be pleased know that this speciality drink can actually be found all year round. It was still June, and the paddy fields were alive adding yet another shade of green to the transforming landscape. It was any ordinary day and as it approached lunch, at about 12.45pm I noticed with the exception of the odd general store, places closed earlier on the island for the afternoon siesta. It was time to leave the island for lunch. Driving back towards the ferry point, it was hard to notice the abundance of bird life on the island that flew overhead across the hilltops. Relatively untouched by noise pollution and waste, birds flocked to the riverbanks adding to the postcard beauty for a first time visitor to capture on camera. As we wedged ourselves onto the ferry for the second time that day, I asked my travel companion the question, ‘what happens if someone is coming back late at night? How do they get across?’ to which I received the comforting answer… if one were to flash the lights of their vehicle, irrespective of the hour, the ferry ventures across to pick them up. Slowly gliding across the calm water, I couldn’t help but smile at how time had stood still on the island and how though I’d not left the state; I was leaving this place with a different state of mind. I felt somewhat contented at knowing that I always had Divar if I fancied an escape. 30

Happiness Starts Here... ‘Délicieux’ by Lucie Masson

Text

Vijaya Pais

oa is the ubiquitous melting pot of cultures, with a myriad lot of travelers adopting it as their home. Expatriates from all over have travelled the length and breadth of the globe to find love, peace and tranquility here; they’ve overcome language and cultural barriers to restart their lives on the coastal shores of Goa. We chat with Lucie Masson, the director of Délicieux - the French Bakery & Patisserie that has branches in Ashvem and Panjim. We ask her about her journey from France to India and how she left her career and life in Paris behind to pursue her passion for baking in Goa. WO’GOA: Hi, Lucie could you give us a little brief about your background-how you started your career and how you eventually ended up with Deliceux? Lucie Mason: I graduated from a French business school a few years ago. Through my studies and then jobs I got to work several times in India. After a few months in Delhi and a year working in marketing in Mumbai, I fell under the cast of the Indian way of life and loved the country forever. I met Varun in Switzerland when I started my career in finance, and followed him to Goa to live with him and pursue my real passion. I started by creating the Siolim Cooking School that welcomes travelers and teaches them the art of cooking Goan food, with the help of wonderful Goan ladies. It is a dip into the Goan culture and heritage. We then decided to work on creating a range of French desserts in Goa, as we were longing for better quality of products for ourselves and for the guests at the hotel. We called Philippe from France, who works as the main chef and trained the Indian team to support him. The secret of French cuisine lies in the quality of ingredients used in making the goods and the historical tradition of sweet recipes which has never been lost or altered. Philippe uses only pure butter, natural fruits and flavors and bans any preservatives or artificial tastes. That is what makes the French pastries so special. I handle the daily operations and manage the outlets. WO’GOA: What made you choose Goa as a base? Lucie Mason: Varun had a residence here, which is a heritage

WO’GOA: What were your first impressions – was it much of a culture shock? Lucie Mason: Of course I got a culture shock when I first came to work in Delhi! I remember asking all kinds of questions to my manager ‘cause I could not understand how this all worked. But after meeting Indian people I understood the culture and the underlying philosophy. Goa is less of a culture shock than the rest of India, as it has a recent trace of Portuguese lifestyle. WO’GOA: How did Goa’s business culture help or hinder your success?

house that he restored into a boutique hotel (Siolim House), we both wanted to go live in India. That’s why we chose Goa as a base. WO’GOA: Starting a business is one thing, but starting a franchise operation takes everything to a much higher level. What insights have you gained from setting up Deliceux as a franchise? Lucie Mason: The best insight I got is that it is important to study the market in which you wish to operate, before starting. Also it is true; it is far more complicated than a single business. The logistics, accounting and operating systems deployed become highly complex, one has to be really hard working. WO’GOA: What challenges did you experience in starting and growing your business in Goa? Lucie Mason: There are many challenges. First the climate and environment are against pastry making, and especially French pastry, because the heat and the humidity are a killer. Then the staff, when motivated enough, take a long time to be trained since the techniques in baking are totally different here. Then in Goa people don’t like what is new and coming from outside. Our market is actually mostly composed of foreigners and people who have travelled abroad and who have developed a taste. Therefore it is mostly a seasonal market.

Lucie Mason: What business culture? It is difficult to strive in Goa because people who have ambition usually go abroad. Doing business here has its advantage and drawbacks. I would say it is easier because there are less rules and regulations than in other places, but it is also difficult and energy consuming to get things done. WO’GOA: What are some of the secrets to your entrepreneurial success? Lucie Mason: To be hard-working, to never give up with setbacks and have a clear vision. WO’GOA: What are your top five tips for people who are thinking of starting their own business in Goa? Lucie Mason: Work with a business partner or associate who is from Goa. Understand your market very clearly. If it is food or entertainment, be ready to be seasonal. Look for people who have a good work attitude. Be ready to make very low margins. WO’GOA: What is your most memorable moment from your expat experience? Lucie Mason: When my full family came to Goa to celebrate my birthday last year. It was amazing to have them around, and they loved Goa too much. WO’GOA: Tell us 3 things you love about Goa. Lucie Mason: The beach and the amazing nature! The feeling of freedom, the sense of beauty that Goa produces, the outdoor lifestyle and the great restaurants. 35

A farewell to the Goa of Old

Vasco Pinho

historical sketch of Goa and in particular of Panjim city ought to include the many firsts that the former Estado da India Portuguesa had to its credit. In this part of the world, we witnessed the earliest measures to abolish the Hindu tradition of sati – the inhuman burning of widows; the first nautical station of Asia where a lighthouse was erected; the first modern printing press in the East; Asia’s first western style University – Universidade de S. Paulo – in which the inaugural academic ceremony was read in 14 languages; the first place outside the western world where the teachings of western Medicine were introduced along with its practices; the first High Court in Asia with a jurisdiction that extended over different continents and oceans, countries and cities, including Mozambique, Macau, Timor and even Bombaim - the then future city of Bombay or Mumbai; the first Municipality patterned after European municipalities; the first colony where the natives constituted the backbone of the Administration for well over two hundred years; the only Portuguese colony where a native, Bernardo Peres da Silva, was elevated to the high position of Prefeito or Civil Governor; the first place in the world, outside Europe, where grafting of fruit bearing trees was introduced on a massive scale, with a view to improve the quality of the produce. Panjim was the city where urban planning was done on the moulds of the western cities of Paris, Madrid and Lisbon where roads were aligned with footpaths. This had been the sequel to the reconstruction of Lisbon along identical moulds soon after the great earthquake of 1755 that had devastated the Portuguese capital. It was done on the orders of the Marquis de Pombal, the then Prime Minister. The grid pattern of roads or malha distinguishes Panjim from any other Indian city. 36

(left) Palácio Patriarchal 1890

(below) Archbishop’s House (Palácio 2014

Patriarchal)

Earlier, in 1632, Viceroy D. Miguel de Noronha, the 4th Count of Linhares, built what must have been the longest causeway in the world – 3 kilometers long -, designed and executed by Jesuit priests. It linked Panjim to Ribandar or Rai-bunder, the Jetty of the kings. It is more popularly known until now as Ponte de Linhares. It was built with Roman arches made of laterite stones by probably the world’s best masons – a combination of Goan and Portuguese master craftsmen. The funds were spent locally on purpose by the visionary Viceroy to avoid feeding the cannons of Imperial Spain in her wars against England, specifically on the occasion of the great Spanish misadventure, that of the Armada Invincible which, incidentally, was burnt down along with 32 major Portuguese high board warships by a combination of British pirates and naval units Portugal participated in the naval attack of Trafalgar because at that time she was under the Spanish crown. After the disaster, Portugal ceased to be a major naval power. Last but not the least, our Laws in Goa followed the Roman and Napoleonic Codes – the world’s most precise, legally speaking, with less loopholes that any other system of Law – British, Indian or American. 37

And to crown the local system, there was one Law for every man – black, brown or white, women and men alike whether Hindu, Muslim, Christian or Parsi. Goa, until now, has the most advanced and meritorious legal system in India – that of the Uniform Civil Code – thus being at least two hundred years ahead of any such legal provisions in any other State in the country. A ‘quasi-independent’ colony, therefore, the Estado da India had its own stamps and currency. In 1960, five Goan rupees bought one American dollar in the market; and a hundred Goan rupees fetched a hundred and fifty Indian rupees. There is often a tendency to compare the British empire – pompously known as the one over which the sun never set – to the Portuguese empire. It suffices to mention that for over a hundred years, the Indian Ocean had become a Portuguese lake in the same way as the Romans used to refer to the Mediterranean Sea as mare nostrum. No foreign vessel, whether Dutch or British, was allowed in here unless it paid cartaz, a licence fee, to the Portuguese Monarchy the proud possessor of the most powerful navy in the world of the time.

Menon shall one day have to answer for the faux pas in the Court of World opinion, the Indian and Goan History. Goans have lost their Goa thanks to them. At present, there is a host of worries that afflict Goans, the most significantly tragic of all being their exodus - one which has in more recent times assumed frightening proportions. Over a hundred Goans are leaving Goa every day according to some insiders and at least 80 locals are surrendering their Indian passports. They are running away out of the lack of opportunities available at home, insecurity bordering on fea - an exodus that is bound to accelerate, especially now that there is a threat of Muthalik’s sword hanging above the Catholic common man’s head.

Indeed he has just recently vowed to provide every Hindu family with a sword for self-defence. Against whom ? Obviously not the Goan Hindu. Muthalik’s message, in real terms, means that ‘ one billion Hindus’ must arm themselves to the teeth against, in our case, a quarter of a million Goan Catholics. This threat is already shaping up the type of governance we can expect in the days ahead. The However, there is no running away from two Congress Party’s rotten days are over. Thank God! other firsts: the mass conversions of the upper But it is being replaced possibly by sharp tongues caste Hindus in Goa and the introduction of the and even sharper sword razors. Mark my words: Inquisition. But, and on the other hand, also let us it is an exodus of people who will never come back face the reality that existed in Goa for generations: never to come back unlike during the colonial ‘a land of tranquility’, in the incomparable words times. of Manohar Malgonkar – a British trained Indian Army Oficer, the author of’ Inside Goa’ and the This writer has lived in Panjim for seven decades best writer on Goa till date. And, to add one other plus, with minor absences. Panjim I love; and for singular fact about our Land, it needs be mention Panjim and in it I shall continue to live till my last that for decades there was one murder, on an days. The scores of ignorant men and women, average, every twenty years according to the United outsiders mainly, knowing little or nothing about Goa or the Portuguese contribution to Goa, and Nations statistics. who have settled here after 1961 have been fed with Goan houses were graced with grill-less windows, tales about the Portuguese years – all propaganda, but like Goa herself, they have disappeared in erroneous and dishonest and shamelessly the above sense for all times to come possibly done, so much so that fifty years after Afonso de because Goans were the only party, the main, not Albuquerque, a mall Portuguese warship, was sunk to be consulted about its future in 1961. Nehru and off Dona Paula Bay by the intervention of half of the 38

Western Fleet of the Indian Navy, a naval officer in a more recent article, has mischievously’ raised’ the number of the Portuguese ships involved in the naval conflict to four by enumerating all the Portuguese frigates that scouted the Goan waters in the last thirty years of the Portuguese rule. He thus made the victory look more respectable. When some local spies had been asked to count the number of tanks the Portuguese Army had, they include all the water tanks of the Altinho type to inflate the numbers. In one of the hyper patriotic speeches that followed the outcome of the largest Police Action in the History of the word – a term coined by K.K. Menon -, I heard one doctor refer to the fact that ‘ten Portuguese soldiers did not fight against one single Indian soldier’, when as a matter of fact it was 40,000 against 3,500 thousand. But least embarrassed by such statistics, the Supreme Court of the Land chose to refer to the ‘Liberation of Goa’ as an ‘Acquisition by Conquest’. Therefore, here I stand: acquired legally, but less liberated politically.

Those who at present talk of the ‘Partugeese’ people and the ‘Partugeese’ houses ought to consult the Goans in private, as did a non-local journalist a few years ago, to learn to her shock, the lesson of what patriotism is not: the fraudulent and untruthful Cricketlike mess-up of Goan matters and the chasing of haftas, the rapes galore, and the corruption raised to the nth -power that delays the acquisition of the modern means of defending India’s borders. She was shocked at the measure of the truth about the Portuguese time days that was conveyed more by the local Hindus, more than the Catholics.

More recently, a young Punjabi girl, immersed into Bollywood film making, objected to my saying that nobody was executed by the Portuguese Authorities by hanging in front of Panjim Church as have the third rate Indian film producers depicted more than once, according to her. She soon lost interest in what I had to say. But she understood that truth prevails though that time it would be a bit inconvenient to her bosses in Mumbai. Let me not remind you that I love Panjim even though much of it has been in nearly every film prostitutes are made to wear a replaced by concrete monsters, often with illegal cross.Nobody recognizes now or even remembers floors like the Souza Towers, located a mere what the Goan type represented once upon a time hundred meters from the Corporation of the City to the entire world. of Panjim. I love it because the city evokes in me the saudade or nostalgia of my Primary School, my Curiously, it is only in Portugal that the Goan is teachers, the excellent book fairs held occasionally still more respected than in most other countries. in the main Garden – Jardim Garcia de Horta, and In Goa, of late, we have acquired nick-names also because of my old friends who were like little like maka-pao, laidback, pro-Portuguese and so on. The Goans have been always accepted by the gentlemen. common man in Portugal for centuries, something There were no Nigerians, no drugs or the most that does not happen in Goa to an equal extent. incompetent Police Force in the Country. Traffic Here, when some acquaintances visit me and I offer Policemen were respected and for such festivals as them a cup of tea, some retort: Today is Tuesday, Christmas, New Year and Ganesh Chaturthi, they no? Then, I have to remind them that on the last were presented with the choicest wines, sweets and occasion they did not accept the drink because it chocolate boxes - kept by our honorable and less was ‘Friday’. Never did a Portuguese refuse a drink ambitious businessmen around the platform on at my place. They are too educated, too human, which the sinaleiro proudly stood and from where too gentle and at ease with a Goan, independently he directed the traffic. of his colour or religion. 39

GOA’S ECO TOURISM Photography Goa Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.

t is a well known fact that Goa is very popular for its beaches. But, did you know that about one-third of Goa is forest land and that it is one of the richest reservoirs of biodiversity in the country. Goa stretches over 1424.38 sq km, the Western Ghats house some of the most fascinating representatives of this bio-diversity. The complex topography, high rainfall, relative inaccessibility of the tract and the bio-geographical isolation has helped the Western Ghats retain the biological diversity to a great extent. It may be interesting to know that over 3500 species of flowering plants are found here, which means 27% of India’s flowering plants. Let’s delve into the eco- hidden treasures Goa has to offer. Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary: This 240 sq km sanctuary is situated in Mollem, on the road leading to Belgaum, and is easily accessible by both road and rail. The forest clad slopes of the Western Ghats, rich in wildlife is a paradise for bird watchers. The Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary is the largest of Goa’s four protected wildlife areas, and contains within it The Mollem National Park. You must stay at least a couple of days, to catch a glimpse of some of the animals sheltered 42

in the sanctuary, including Gaur, Sambar, Leopards, Spotted Deer, Slender Toris, Jungle Cats, Malayan Giant Squirrels, Pythons and Cobras. There are important geographical and historical features you will discover at this sanctuary. Devilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Canon View Point is a great spot to watch the wild animals in their natural habitat. For a bit of divinity visit the famous temple of Tambdi Surla situated 13-km from the sanctuary. The Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Sanguem taluka, near the town of Valpoi in North Goa. This region is part of the Western Ghats landscape, and is regarded as a Global Biodiversity Hotspot, as well as an area of high endemism by Conservation International. The huge protected area is being considered as a Project Tiger reserve because of the presence of resident Bengal tigers. The sanctuary is linked to the Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary and together the two reserves cover an area of 420 sq km. trekking is allowed in few trails in the lush green evergreen forests. Mhadei has over a thousand species of flowering plants and rare endemic orchids, a number of sacred groves have been spotted here as well. The locals in the area venerate their Gods at these groves. The sanctuary is known as an International Bird Area with many rare species using it as a breeding ground, 43

one can spot various mammals, snakes, endemic species of amphibians and at least 257 recorded species of butterflies. There are no public tourist facilities available at the sanctuary, but there are Forest Department rest houses at Valpoi. There is an Irrigation Department rest house above the Anjunem Dam and three private eco resorts in Chorlaghat- the Wildernest Nature Conservation Facility, the Adventure Resort and the Swapnagandha Resort. Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary measures just 8 sq km in size and is the smallest of the three wildlife sanctuaries of Goa. It is located among the hills at the junction of three talukas - Ponda, Sanguem and Sattari. Bondla, is more than just a sanctuary, it is an ideal jungle resort, a major attraction for school going children and nature lovers. It boasts of a mini zoo, deer safari park, formal gardens, botanic gardens and eco-tourism cottages. The common animals that inhabit the sanctuary are the Gaur and the Sambhar deer. Bondla is a paradise for eco-tourists. The area is covered with moist deciduous forests, with small patches of evergreens and canes along the nullahs. Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary, this relatively new wildlife sanctuary is located in the Sanguem taluka in Eastern Goa. The 211 sq km, Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary is a major attraction for nature-enthusiasts and wildlife lovers as well. Just few years back Netravali was declared a wildlife sanctuary by the government of Goa to protect its Western Ghat range. Netravali has a moist-deciduous forest interspersed with semievergreen and evergreen forests. Here, you can spot wildlife like Black Panthers, Great Pied Hornbills, King Cobras, Giant Squirrels and Slender Loris. Apart from these wildlife species, you can also see a number of other animals. Netravali is connected to the Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary; the best time to visit is between October and March. The Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Canacona taluka of South Goa. The sanctuary is known 44

for its dense forest of tall trees, some of which reach 30 metres in height. The forest supports moist deciduous trees, semi-evergreen trees, and evergreen trees. A special feature of the sanctuary is a treetop watchtower positioned 25 metres above a watering hole where animals go to drink. The best times to visit the watchtower are dawn and dusk when animals are most likely to visit. Eight nature trails traverse the sanctuary, ranging from 500 metres to 5 kilometres long. Several tribal groups live in and around the sanctuary including the Velip and the Kunbil. Visitors can interact with these communities to learn about their culture and lifestyle. There is an eco-tourism complex at the entrance of the sanctuary that houses a nature interpretation centre, cottages, toilets, library, reception area, rescue centre, canteen, children’s park, and forest ranger office. Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, Goa’s only bird sanctuary is located on the western tip of the island of Chorao, along the River Mandovi. Mangrove swamps cover this bird-watchers’ paradise aptly named after India’s best-known ornithologist. A variety of local and migratory birds can be found on this island. Apart from a rich variety of coastal birds, one may spot flying foxes, jackals and crocodiles.The area consists of mangrove vegetation. Mangrove ecosystems are among the most productive ones known to us. They provide refuge and breeding grounds for several varieties of fish and insects which fall at the base of the food-chain. The ‘Mangrove Scrub’ type of vegetation that is found here occurs in small isolated areas along the banks of Mandovi and Mapusa rivers and also along the Cumbarjua canal. A watch-tower has been erected in the sanctuary for better viewing of birds. Apart from the several resident birds, the sanctuary also has some winter visitors like coots and pintails.The Wildlife Division of the Forest Department proposes to start conducted tours through the water channels. It is envisaged that a group of 8-9 persons could be taken at one time. The sanctuary is open throughout the year.

Dudhsagar Waterfall Dudhsagar literally means sea of milk; here water plummets hundreds of feet in cascades, white as milk, forming one of the most spectacular of all natural phenomena. The fifth tallest waterfall in India is a sight to behold especially during the monsoon season. The popular destination for hitchers, trekkers and tourists alike can be accessed by jeep though the Bhagwan Mahavir Sanctuary. Accommodation is easily available in Mollem at the comfortable cottages and dormitories built by the Directorate of Tourism. The Dudhsagar Spa and Resort also provides elegant accommodation and thrilling excursions to the waterfalls. Savari Waterfall The waterfall is located in the Sanguem Taluka of Eastern Goa, the best time to visit would be during the summer to gain some respite from the heat, though the falls are accessible throughout the year. The other major attractions around the waterfalls are mountain climbing and jungle walks - a must do for the fearless adventurist the dense foliage along with animal sounds make the journey quite an experience. Carambolim Lake Adding charm to the quiet village of Carambolim is a scenic reservoir fringed by lush greenery. Migratory birds seek this verdant landscape every year. Jacanas with their sparkling colours and the spectacular moorhens can be seen here. Mayem Lake Just 35 kms from Panaji surrounded by rolling green hills lies Mayem Lake. GTDC Mayem Lake View Resort offers affordable, comfortable cottages for nature lovers and honeymooners. There are ample boating activities in the lake to keep one entertained throughout the day. Angling in Goa With the arrival of monsoon and the annual ban on deep sea fishing; traditional fishermen and amateur anglers make their way to the rivulets, pond and lakes for their quota of daily fresh fish. Angling can be a very thrilling experience; you will find plenty of tourists inclined towards fishing, with their rods and bait on picturesque waterfronts. 46

A Nuvem Balcão and the talented M. Boyer Selma Carvalho

he ambitiously named, Murda-Grande vaddo is a short walking distance from the baroque Mãe dos Pobres Church aWnd neighbours the equally forlorn but more modestly named MurdaPequeno vaddo, both part of Nuvem village. Nuvem, where on moonlit nights, flea-ridden howling dogs can drive one insane, has never managed to produce men or women of greatness. We cannot boast of writers, poets, artists, classical musicians or freedom fighters. It has always been home to simple people. Men with hunched backs and caved-in chests, who worked the fields, distilled toddy, made bread and bicycled to nearby factories or faraway mines; men who have now become aging fathers to young tarvottis plying the seas or working in the Arabian Gulf. Perhaps, English author Evelyn Waugh of Brideshead revisited, had passed through Nuvem or a village just like it, when on visiting Goa in 1952, he wrote: “Baroque Churches abound, the inhabitants wear European clothes, eat meat, drink wine, live in charmingly kept homesteads. Living conditions for both peasants and salaried officials are simple but desperate poverty such as one sees in rest of India, does not exist.” This intellectually barren landscape is the abode of homespun truths and heartfelt stories. From it, trickle tales of families who pawned their last mother-of-pearl cameo to pay for their daughter’s wedding; of fathers who died in hideous debt; of mothers who buried themselves in grief over sons lost to the sea; of star-crossed lovers who moaned in passionate pleasure behind a goldenbrown bale of neatly stacked hay; of mad bhatkars who redeemed themselves through selfless acts of sacrifice and mundkars who could smell the seasons in their proud nostrils, as songs of naïve hope burst forth from their hearts and seedling scattered from their coarse hands.

M. Boyer’s ancestral house in Marcaim, Ponda. Copyright Selma Carvalho

Boyer always maintained that his first concert was in Nuvem but few people know of the exact location. My parents, both from Nuvem, recall the day with clarity. The year has been approximated. My grandmother Anna-Jacquina Cardoso nee Aguiar and M. Boyer’s Father Sebastiao Aguiar were brother and sister. As a young boy Boyer and his older siblings spent a considerable amount of time at our ancestral house in Murda-Grande, Nuvem. Boyer’s family lived not very far at Margao, to where they had migrated from Ponda.

There is a pocket of tribal gaudda who share the village with sudhirs and chardos. There are no bamons in Nuvem or none that I know off. In an age gone by, the guadda were the workforce, they are not anymore. They would labour in the paddy fields during harvest time; the lengthening sun casting long shadows on their oiled bare backs; human reservoirs of agrarian knowledge who passed on their expertise orally from generation to generation. The chardos were bakers and small-time shopowners, possorkars. The sudhirs, toddy-tappers and artisans. Most of the inhabitants were mundkars; migrated from other parts of Goa, carrying a fistful of disparate memories which have shrunk into fanciful half-truths, on the verge of being forgotten altogether, as the bearers of these tales shrivel like autumnal leaves and die. The bhatkars were shadowy figures, who exiled themselves for longer and longer periods of time in Portugal; their vast estates left entirely in the custody of mundkars. On any given day, the lives of the chardos in the village were not substantially different from those of sudhirs. They were both beneficiaries of an abundant harvest or victims of a wretched drought. But an essential truth about small lives is that they invariably find smaller lives to feel good about themselves. And so the sudhir toddy-tapers and tailors would find themselves craftily excluded from Church confrarias and other caste-led fraternities. Human societies, however, are strangely afflicted by contradiction. On the one hand, they create exclusion. On the other, their souls encase a benign space of outreach which longs to be reunited from those they have been severed.

The Nuvem balcĂŁo on which M. Boyer held his first ever concert. Copyright Selma Carvalho

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to believe, it was in the entwined lives of villages, which nourished organic friendships of mutual dependence, marriages fuelled by sexual desire and choices made through free will, that Goans first began to change, and evolve from a society segregated by caste, inhibited by fatalism and hemmed-in by religious ritual, to one driven by individual choice and in some measure the principles of liberty, equality and fraternity. The gaudda in Nuvem, though segregated by living space was still the respected gardener who could walk into backyards after the rains, ankles caked in 49

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mud, a mighty sickle resting on his thin shoulders, and assume his rightful role as chief horticulturist of the village. The sudhir tailor was the cherished guest, dined and feted before every wedding by matronly mistresses of the house who depended on him to dress the bridal entourage; the toddy-taper was the nerve centre of the village running bars and distilleries; the chardo baker on a Raleigh bicycle, head wet from dew, making his early morning deliveries brought with him the news – death, illness, births, misfortune and fame – were all broadcast by this embedded reporter.

nonetheless, a dwelling of historical relevance, for entirely out of a mere accident of fate and family ties, it partly nourished one of the greatest tiatrists – playwright, director and actor- of our times.

In the early morning of May 1948, as a lazy sun rose to a humid day, neighbours woke up to the news of a ‘Free Concert,’ to be held, late evening, at the Cardoz house. The musicians were a ragtag group of local talent borrowed hastily perhaps from church choirs and ladainha aficionados who happened to have a violin handy. Kindly neighbours, had grudgingly volunteered their curtains for the stage-set and young girls, my mother amongst Nuvem is a microcosm of Goa and a society them, spurred on by adolescent enthusiasm had which transformed itself by a multitude of small collected chairs from these same neighbours, and acts rather than huge revolutionary leaps. And it is arranged theatre-style in front of the balcony which villages such as Nuvem, with its redemptive heroes in those days was raised on a plinth, overlooking a and redeemable villains which inspired the protest huge umbrella-like mango tree and several spindly bamboo. art form of tiatr. The cast included my uncle, Miguel, a musician of sorts known to deliver a rousing hymn after the ritual nightly rosary and who like many men of his era died young of illness and aimlessness. The producer, director and main actor was an eighteen year old cousin who had spent many a summer at our ancestral house and was debuting his first play. As the evening of the concert wore on, as the brinjal-coloured sky darkened into a deep black, the cousin made his entrance with a Miguel Rod song to thunderous applause from the audience. The play was entitled Rinkari; a tale of debt and destitution. The cousin’s name was Manuel At one time, a small part of this house served as a Santana Aguiar and he would go on to become bar, where men on their way home from work could the legendary, M. Boyer. stop by for a drink. These were the great communal spaces of early twentieth century Goa. Here, men Note: Boyer always maintained that his first concert rubbed shoulders with each other unmindful of their was in Nuvem but few people know of the exact status. But these bars were not the counterparts of location. My parents, both from Nuvem, recall the Parisian cafes or drinking houses, where poets, day with clarity. The year has been approximated. writers and revolutionaries met to debate the thorny My grandmother Anna-jacquina Cardoso nee issues of the day. Here, the drone of conversations Aguiar and M. Boyer’s Father Sebastiao Aguiar mulled over the ordinary: the changing seasons, were brother and sister. As a young boy Boyer and the annual harvest, marriages, births, pestilence, his older siblings spent a considerable amount of time at our ancestral house in Murda-Grande, death and debt. Nuvem. Boyer’s family lived not very far at Mardol, My ancestral house though insignificant, is Margao to where they had migrated from Ponda. In the heart of Murda-Grande, sits my ancestral house, which as far back as my own memory takes me, has been painted a pale yellowy colour ravaged by the annual assault of monsoonal rain, tarnished by thin veins of slimy green moss running across the length of its mud walls. This unassuming house (it no longer exists in its original form) is of no architectural significance; just an indiscriminant huddle of two or three quartos, a kitchen and a dispense. Later, when the boys in the family had grown into men, each added on a new wing making it even more aesthetically unappealing.

This text is Chapter 3 of the recently published book of the author Teotonio R. de Souza, and it is reprinted with the consent of the author. Entitled “Goa outgrowing Postcolonialism”, the main concern of the book is to look at the deeper cultural satisfactions or anxieties that have permitted Goans of diverse hues and conflicting interests to come together from time to time, shedding their differences in order to safeguard what they see as their more distant or deeper heritage, which recent history has not been able to dilute. The issues of culture and identity are central to this book. Hence, the originality of the analysis of the past fifty years since Liberation, is that it refuses to see Goa only from the postcolonial angle. “Outgrowing Postcolonialism” reflects this originality of the book. The book is available from Amazon.com, but it will be officially released in Goa on 11th August, 5.30 pm at the Goa Chamber of Commerce, Panjim at the hands of the former Union Minister, Mr. Eduardo Faleiro, who wrote the Foreword to the book. 52

Unwrapping Goan Identity

his is a revised and abridged version of a longer piece I wrote for a souvenir book of the first Semana da Cultura organized in Goa in 2008. The title was inspired by Gunter Grass’s autobiographical and polemical novel, “Peeling the Onion”. That is precisely how I see Goan identity, with its many wrappings. Some of them make me cry, due to the ambiguities and contradictions involved in the process of the historical growth of “my people”. When approaching my sixty-fifth birthday (12 of these years spent in India but outside Goa for university studies, and the last two decades in Portugal helping the former colonialists in their university studies). I have been part of the Goan onion wrappings. This is not a damage controlling Guntherian confession, but I must admit that I was born legally a Portuguese citizen in colonial Goa in February 1947 without any choice on my part (while the rest of the country was on the threshold of independence). I was declared an Indian citizen without my choice by a legislative process which followed the end of the Portuguese colonial regime. Our personal destiny is greatly shaped by such unchosen developments of our collective history. Mine was no exception and some important life decisions became dependent upon the best available opportunities, but they were hardly of my choosing. It was only in 1994 that I could find the right conditions to reorient my life. Recovery of the Portuguese nationality was then an option. Similary, in 2007 the recovery of Indian nationality as an Overseas Citizen of India (OCI) was another option. These were hard and thoughtful decisions, and reflect my way of integrating consciously, freely, and appreciatively the major elements that have contributed to shape my identity as a Goan. In the past I had seen the same elements as having been forced onto my identity. 53

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At least since the 11th century Goa had been under the Kadambas, linked to a widespread network of Afro-Asian seaborne trade, and of hinterland trade with the Deccan through passes in the Western Ghats. Goa’s integration into the Portuguese eastern empire after 1510 catapulted it into an unforeseen scale of operations. As headquarters of an early modern European empire from 1530, Goa exposed its inhabitants very early to the challenges of modern globalization. If the early decline of the Portuguese failed to sustain this process, the economic pressures and cultural acquisitions permitted Goans to avail themselves of the opportunities presented by the British empire in the neighbouring territories, particularly since the establishment of the rail link. Ironically, the allegedly harassed (according to a onesided historical perspective conveniently bandied around for political gains in post-Liberation times) Hindu community of Saraswats sustained the fiscal-commercial structure of the Portuguese in Goa, and the Hindu dubhashis effectively served their diplomatic needs in Asia as documented by P.S.S. Pissurlencar in his Agentes da Diplomacia Portuguesa na Índia (1952).Without such vital support from non-Christian natives, the Portuguese colonialism in Goa would have short-circuited and blown up very much earlier than it did. But the selfinterested collaboration of Goan Hindus forced the masses of poor Christians, allegedly protected by the Portuguese Christian rule, to emigrate and try to eke out their living in British India. It should never be forgotten, however, it was the structure of the Portuguese Church Padroado throughout Asia, manned largely by native Goan clergy from the 19th century onwards, that gave the scattered Goan emigrants the emotional sustenance they needed away from their homeland. The Padroado parishes in Bombay and the village kudd were effective props in the process of adaptation to painful socioeconomic challenges. The church connection also helped develop the musical talent of many Goans, just as westernized culinary skills opened job markets for many Goans in British India and elsewhere.

If language is a core component of any social identity, it is not surprising that Goans held fast to their Konkani language even during the colonial period. Barely 5 percent of Goa’s population could read, write and speak in Portuguese according to the last census of the colonial regime. Close contact with the Portuguese clergy during the early centuries after conversion, elementary training in the parish schools, and compulsory primary schooling in Portuguese following the republican regime change in Portugal, resulted in the absorption of a hefty proportion of Portuguese loan-words into the Konkani spoken by Goan Christians. A similar process is on today with the anglicization of Konkani. Many decades of sustained effort became necessary after 1961 to restore to Konkani its linguisticcultural legitimacy as well as its standards so as to make it acceptable as the official State language in 1986, and to permit its entry in the Constitutional schedule in 1992. No discussion on Goan identity can be complete if it ignores the stigma of the caste system that dogs Goan society even today. “To konnalo?” (to which family does he belong?) is a question which a traditional Goan usually asks, be it in Goa or anywhere else to discover the caste links. Goans married to non-Goans and living in a nonGoan ambiance may ignore the caste linkage. Even in Goa today money and power call the shots. Spoken Konkani retains grammatical inflections and vocabulary preferences that identify castes, such as aila and eila, taka and teka, sokoilo and khailo, etc. Despite all the haute couture and other external shenanigans that Goans have acquired over time to make them presentable global citizens, Goan identity still needs to break out of its caste-shell. Until we can free ourselves from it, we can hardly call ourselves global Goans. We will remain puny caste-bound Goans who are doing relatively well globally. 55

MEMORARE (A Dirge for the GOA of 1940) – by Marcos Gomes-Catao

Through the dark of the night The first glimmers of light Awakened cocks proudly crowing To a fresh day’s labour enjoining Through the still of the dawn The diurnal Angelus yawn Sparrows now steadily tweeting Far distant, the ocean roaring Goats bleating: it’s the maids milking Cows mooing en route to pasturing All these sounds I fondly recall At the crest of Life’s fading Fall Born at his maternal home in Candolim, seat of the 1787 “Pinto Conspiracy”, Marcos Gomes-Catao led something of a wanderer’s life. Four childhood years in Tanganyika were followed by seven years in Mapuca, Goa and eight years in school and College at Belgaum. Marcos Gomes-Catao worked in the Human Health industry in Bombay, with spells in Delhi and Singapore. Transferred to Brazil, he lived there for 27 years. He currently resides in the U.S.A “PEDRINHAS na AREIA: poemas avulsos de saudade d’outrora” (Pebbles in the sand: random poems of yesteryears, nostalgia”. It features several poems on our country (GOA), published in Portuguese. This book of poems may be downloaded from Amazon.com 56

The gentle lapping of water On the craggy river shore In the early morning quiet ‘Ere the village’s astir Tawny fishermen in loin cloth Readying for the catch to be sought Bearing nets to the boats aloft On peerless sands ‘ready hot Women in spotless ‘oll’ scurrying To commence the day at Mass praying All these images I now recall Of when my Land kept me in thrall The honking of the spluttering bus Carrying folks to town in a crush The constant phut-phut of the ferry-boat With starched officials going to work Stately mansions lining church squares Lowly huts lost ‘long thoroughfare Their welcoming doors wide open There’s no dread of theft to reckon Wiry women rushing to the market Dextrous heads balancing the baskets Sights and sounds I can’t help recall Seeing my Land under a heavy pall White bubbly froth drifting to the seas As nubile lasses, water up to the knees Slap clothes on smooth stone pieces By the limpid, susurrus stream trees

Early rain drops pit-patting on the tiles Heralding the onset of the monsoon Screeching lads splashing in the wells Filled to the brim by mid-June Green ears of rice undulating in the breeze Bowing to the aspersions of the priest All these memories I endlessly recall At the sight of my beloved Land’s fall Milling crowds in Sunday best Perspiring profusely in the mid-day heat At High Mass, at the annual village ‘fest’ Anticipating the imminent Bacchanalian treat Moonlight revellers their limbs toss To the lilting strains of mandolins Festive evensongs at the wayside Cross To the accompaniment of ‘feni’ and violins Sweet old world, my childhood world, Relics of a happy past, cherished and stored Surfacing in anguish at the pourried mould Set in after my Land was sored Deep-etched pictures that linger Of hills and town and village Of a people simple, gay and sober So hard now to salvage Gone the peace and quiet of yesteryear Replaced by lurking sense of fear Untold folks have sorrowfully fled Giving place to strangers in their stead Foul, bedraggled intruders in penury Dragging their unlimited progeny Disfiguring scenic town and countryside To pollute the once clean wayside Monstrous birds disgorging multitudes Purveyors of undesirable alien attitudes Harbingers of moral decrepitude Experts in bending the path of rectitude The evening bell that still tolls For the dead, at eight, as of old Should it not now ring instead For the beloved Land that’s dead? Sweet old world, my childhood world So sad and hard now to behold Sights and sounds I can’t gladly recall At the sight of my dear Land’s fall 57

Photography 58

Harsh Kamat

Serenatas de Amor (Serenades of Love) Dr. Francisco Colaço

erenading conjures up thoughts of young men standing below a window at night, singing or playing for their beloved. But serenatas, as they were conceived in days of yore (when the Portuguese tradition was in vogue) encompassed a whole gamut of experiences: lovely chords from our guitars (on quiet nights of twinkling stars); romantic strains renting the air - a courageous attempt by a few musically-talented chivalrous youngsters to tell every lady in town (not only their sweethearts!) that they were lovable, nay adorable. Serenata was truly an outpouring of the soul, a toast to femininity, an ode to love and a way of life in those sossegado days of my Goan youth, when healthy fun and serious work blended admirably.

on adding the prefix Doutor to his name but music was his passion). Latin and Portuguese tunes were his forte. Caçula, Amorada, Baião Delicado - he played all these with dexterity. He was the envy of all, even accomplished professionals who came from overseas! Then there was Dr. Rod, the immortal percussionist, the quintessential musician, the artist par excellence. In those days, we mostly “plucked” our guitars; while the thumb etched the bordão, the other fingers, in quick succession, chiseled out the weirdest of rhythms, samba, rumba and bolero (bossa nova made its debut later).

Four or five of us gathered at short notice, armed with stringed instruments. There was a “tom-tom” for good measure, and for bass, an improvised wooden box “caixa de ressonância” (the sound box). We were nicknamed “night birds” or “night workers” (not in the pejorative sense, of course!).

Our battleground was the girls’ hostel - Instituto de Nossa Senhora de Piedade - our first and last destination on weekdays. As the first chords were struck in the dead of the night, the lights came on; the girls flocked to the verandah with shouts of “Encore!” Non-stop lilting music flowed, which came to an end only when a stern Dona Guiomar, the disciplinarian Director, unable to control the girls’ exuberance, would summon the police as a deterrent to our over-enthusiasm.

At 10 p.m. we would gather at one of the cement benches in Panjim by the banks of the quietlyflowing Mandovi where we would quickly practice new hits and brush through old songs. Rua sem Luz (Road without Lights) was a favourite, perhaps because most roads in those days were without lights! Eloy Gomes was our leader, a genial guitarist, a legend in his own lifetime. (He was bent

Most of us were then medical students. Great names graced at different times our Tuna Académica the Flores brothers (the late Dr. Jorge and Victor) and even late Noel Flores (Professor Catedrático of the Music Conservatory in Vienna). I also fondly remember the late Dr. Raul Peres, my brother-inlaw, and the unforgettable Pandit (now a urologist in the USA). 59

On weekends, we had a longer itinerary. Moving around in Dr. Fernando Mascarenhas’ coffinshaped van, we went all around Panjim and even made forays to Vasco, Margão and Mapusá. Jéjé Velho with his mellifluous vocals was with us and, if luck was good, the golden-voiced Arch. Lúcio Miranda (the best serenata singer of all times) would also join us. Wherever we went, house-doors, fridges, home-bars and kitchens were thrown open and we had fun all night. It was through constant serenading I must confess, that I ended up conquering my wife. She was beautiful and had many admirers. We were both shy, but it was through music that the right chord was struck. We have now been married for years and there have been good and sad times too. One of my best days, I remember, came when I stood first in MD Medicine in the Bombay University in 1972, and dedicated my triumph to my beloved wife as a reward for the umpteen sacrifices she had made to see me through. There were other glorious days too, like the day when each of our three petals (one lovely boy, Melvin, and two beautiful girls, Elaine and Annabelle) was born. But beyond doubt, the saddest day of all, our own 9/11, came when we tragically lost our loving son in the prime of life. As I think back, hidden in the secret recesses of my heart and my mind are times I would have liked totally obliterated; luckily, there are also days that bring in happy reminiscences. The days of Serenata - to be precise - figure amongst the most memorable in my life, because they taught me what love is all about. Especially that sublime form of love that finds its expression through the magic of music.

Dr. Francisco Colaço is a well-respected cardiologist from Margao, currently President of the Indian Medical Association (Goa Chapter). He is also the President of ‘Lok Shakti’, a socio-political outfit which strives for secularism and good governance in Goa, as well as President of ‘Goenkarachem Daiz’, a recently formed Trust meant to preserve and promote Goenkarponn. A social activist and writer, Dr. Colaço loves music - he plays the guitar and enjoys singing. 61

In conversation with Teotonio R. de Souza WO’GOA’s Feature Editor Vijaya Pais chats with Teotonio de Souza about chapter 3 of his book ‘Unwrapping Goan Identity’, Goa post-Liberation and the state of affairs today with regards to the youth and education system in Goa.

Professor Teotonio R. de Souza was the founder and director of the Xavier Centre of Historical Research in Goa. De Souza, has been based in Portugal since 1995 and heads the Department of History at the Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias. He has been a fellow of the Portuguese Academy of History since 1983, and of the Sociedade de Geografia de Lisboa since 2000. He is one of Goa’s most valuable scholar and historian; he has authored several books in English and Portuguese. Teotonio R de Souza’s riveting book ‘Goa Outgrowing Postcolonialism’ will be released in Goa midAugust.

WO’GOA: You have referred to different views of Goan society, and as most of the youngsters of today, were born after the Liberation, may or may not have clear views on it. In what way could you suggest that we be contributors of change in this matter? Teotonio de Souza: It is obvious that there is no single view of the Goan society at any time, neither in any generation. It is not just the case of the post-Liberation generations. However, all generations are born in cradles prepared by the past generations (call it History). It is the challenge for every generation to look into the past and seek to understand its major contributions, both positive and less positive, or even negative. That is what happens within our own families too closer at home. A critical review of the past requires personal effort and certain skills that need to be acquired over time. The phase of education is decisive in this respect. WO’GOA: How can we encourage harmony and help better understanding of the past, and make the best use of it in the present?

Teotonio de Souza: Social harmony is certainly an important ideal of any society. For some societies it becomes more challenging because of its past. Such is the case of Goa, which saw four and half centuries of colonial intervention, with policies that Goa Outgrowing Postcolonialism can be ordered were not very suave. The drive for Christianization as printed book or as the Kindle version through and the use of Inquisition have left traumatic Amazon.com, the book will be officially released experiences in the Goan society, and many of these mid-August 2014. (http://www.amazon.com/ experiences have settled deep in the unconscious. Goa-outgrowing-Postcolonialism-HistoricalThe Goan society has to accept this past reality and Explorations/dp/1495346978) try to make the best of it. All individuals and societies face external forces some time or another of their life and evolution. Not all is left to our choices. 62

Teotonio de Souza along with Dr. Jitendra Nath Misra, Indian Ambassador to Portugal and Major General Vitor Viana, Director of the Instituto de Defesa Nacional (Institute of National Defence), in Lisboa, Portugal

WO’GOA: You mention of the Portuguese Privileges afforded to Goans. What can we do to help those who are in Goa, to better their lives and in what way can those benefitting from the Privileges help their less fortunate brothers in India? Teotonio de Souza: What I may have called “privileges” are some of the external inputs mentioned above and which some Goans have been able to turn to their advantage, rather than resenting and rejecting. The Western Christian ethos permitted many Goans of humble origins to find jobs in the British Empire in India and elsewhere. The Portuguese law of inheritance in Goa was beneficial, at least since the Portuguese Republic in 1910, to all Goans, including the Hindus. It gave the women equal rights of inheritance, unlike their situation under the Hindu Law. More recently, since Liberation many Goans have taken advantage of the Portuguese nationality law and acquired Portuguese nationality which gives them and their children access to better life facilities in the Western countries. WO’GOA: Ours is an age of Cyber communication.

Many use it to undermine the social fabric. How can we get positive gains by using it to counter this tendency rather than depend on the Government to take all the initiatives? Teotonio de Souza: I remember having entered into the cyber world already in early 70s, and by mid 80s I have ventured to digitalize the inventory of the research library of the Xavier Centre of Historical Research. It was entirely a private initiative and without any dependence upon State assistance. As I mentioned earlier, much depends upon individual capacity to venture. There are no short-cuts to success. It always implies efforts, risks and persistence. It also implies ability to seek help, and I can tell from my own experience that I came across many generous persons who only wanted me to ask for help which they were most willing to provide. What makes such persons willing to help is the enthusiasm and competence which they see in someone dedicated to a cause. WO’GOA: For the last fifty years, many have left, others have passed away, and new people have entered the scene, and many have migrated back 63

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Portuguese colonial regime to provide jobs in the territory forced many Goans to seek solution through emigration. In my book Goa outgrowing Postcolonialism, I have Chapter 6, entitled ‘Goabilization: A Goan way of empowerment’. Reading and reflecting on this chapter and the entire book could provide more insights and answers to the questions that have been posed here. WO’GOA:You are aware that Goa’s past does not get its right share in all India education system. Can you suggest a way to fill the vacuum?

Teotonio de Souza’s earlier book “Goa to Me (1994)” contains an autobiographical introduction, his farewell to Goa when he settled down in Lisbon, after nearly three decades of intense academic contribution to Goa as an historian. (http://www.goacom.com/other-biographies/8122dr-teotonio-r-de-souza)

Teotonio de Souza: History is a two-edged sword. Nowhere has it had just one reading. It can have even contradictory interpretations. Much depends on who writes history. A Goan Christian will never have the experience of the Hindu community, or vice-versa. Hence, it is not a surprise if the focus changes depending upon who studies the past. Chapter 16 of Goa outgrowing Postcolonialism deals precisely with this problem of historiography and how it can be minimized. WO’GOA:Goa gave you a place to come into this world, and now the whole world is your stage. Can you give our young people a vision of hope, and a way to reach there?

Teotonio de Souza: I agree perfectly with the use of the expression “vision”. It is a privilege of the young generations to be visionaries, while the older generations can only dream dreams. However, from my earlier responses, it can be concluded that there are no magic solutions. It is important to be open to new challenges and to unchartered ways, Teotonio de Souza: Migrations is not a recent which always imply risk and insecurity. My success phenomenon. In-migrations and out-migrations has been the result of this process. It is not enough have been an essential part of the history of our to find a helping hand. One must have an eye for region. There were always situations that called the opportunities. for such situations and decisions. Under the Portuguese, constant wars with the neighbours I never forgot what a British historian H.A.L. Fisher and ever-growing taxes on agricultural land made wrote in the Introduction to his classic History of Europe. Success consists in catching the flying skirts many Goans seek solution in emigration. of opportunity. Just very recently I had the privilege The Portuguese conversions policies and the of discovering a Goan who made it globally. Mr. Inquisition pressures also led many Goans out of F. Monteiro is one more model that can inspire the their territory to defend their traditional cultural younger generation of Goans to look far and wide, values. Also more recently, the inability of the without ever losing his home bearings. to their home state. The late 1700s saw an exodus to other parts of India and Africa. How can we build bridges, and re-educate ourselves to find our own worth, and fill the gaps that have been left unfilled?

Bringing Yo g a & A y u r v e d a B a c k To I t s R o o t s

Inspired by her Indian roots, British born Ayurvedic Practitioner, Geeta Vara strongly believes in a holistic approach to wellbeing and helping others find the root cause of their health issues. She empowers each person on their journey of optimal health through self-awareness and conscious shifts towards desirable habits. Geeta has helped many people with conditions including stress, digestive disorders, migraines, weight management, insomnia, anxiety, depression, skin disorders, asthma, degenerative disorders, diabetes, pregnancy care and more. www.geetavara.co.uk Retreat enquiries: info@geetavara.co.uk 66

here else would you rather be this December than the glorious golden sands of Goa. For me, there is a special part of Goa that resonates perfectly for each person desires and personality type. That’s why I love Goa and go back year after year. The influence of diverse cultures in India’s smallest state of Goa offers a richness and beauty that touches the hearts of those who visit. From sandy beaches, stunning hotels and beach huts, rich flora and fauna, architecture born through Goa’s wealth of history, divine seafood (amongst the best seafood curries found around the world) and now the growing yoga, spa and wellness culture. Goa certainly has it all with a perfect mix to introduce the Indian culture to its international visitors. As an Ayurvedic Practitioner and a frequent visitor to India and Goa I have seen huge growth in people embracing their wellbeing naturally through Yoga and Ayurveda as part of the journey of self discovery. These ancient practices are no longer surrounded by an air of mysticism and this profound knowledge is now more accessible than ever before. Retreats facilitate people to focus and explore themselves by following a healthy eating plan, detoxification and practicing Yoga in a safe and nurturing environment with a tool kit to take away. You only have to search the Internet to find numerous retreats to choose from across the globe. My colleagues Johnson Anand Saurabh, Lisa Low and I will be hosting an authentic detox retreat at the Samata Holistic Retreat Centre near Arambol this December. We are so proud to be bringing the ancient wisdom of Vedic sciences back to its birthplace India and share the week with a diverse international audience.

Growth of Global Yoga Yogic wisdom was first scripted by Patanjali in the Yoga Sutras and at the time defined Yoga to be the ‘stilling of the changing thoughts of the mind to experience one’s true self’. Although for many years the practice of yoga was limited to the bounds of the Indian sub-continent and that too to the renunciated yogi, it soon started to gain exposure in the West through the works of Swami Vivekandanda as a path to spiritual awakening. Since then through various pioneers willing to share the Indian traditions, philosophies and medicines to a wider audience, hatha yoga started to gain recognition. Tremendous momentum stirred, predominantly in the physical form of Yoga Asanas (postures) as a vehicle to a healthy body and calm mind and is still how it is understood in the West today. Over the last few decades Yoga has taken the Western community by storm as a non-sectarian practice and continues to not only grow but also evolve. It touches the lives of billions of people be it through quirky adverting campaigns, celebrity endorsements, dedicated yoga magazines to large weekend long yoga ‘shows’. It is not uncommon to see classes running in even the smallest of towns and the bigger cities such as LA, New York, London, Mumbai, Sydney, Tokyo, Singapore and Hong Kong offering a whole array of differing styles and disciplines of yoga practice in purpose-built studios. 67

The passion and purpose of my life, Ayurveda is fast becoming recognised in the Western communities across the globe too as a holistic and personalised approach to wellness with an appreciation for its synergy with Yoga. The movement of Yoga and Ayurveda in the West is now bringing a new wave of enthusiasm to the new generations in India too. Yoga Is Not A Fitness Fad! Contrary to popular belief, Yoga is more than the physical practice of Asanas (postures). Yoga means ‘to unite’ and this unity is to one’s true self. Asana practice as we have come to know Yoga can reveal some fundamental insights into our true nature beyond our body, thought and emotions. It is all encompassing spiritual, mental and physical practice aimed at transforming the mind and body. Yoga brings mental and physical strength, flexibility as well as deeper self-awareness.

your higher self. Both Yoga and Ayurveda consider the concept of the mental qualities of Sattva, Rajas and Tamas, the concept of Prana, Tejas and Ojas, the subtle essence of Vata, Pitta Kapha (the doshas). They also share the same metaphysical anatomy and physiology of the concept of Chakras (energy centres), 107 Marma points and 72,000 Nadis (subtle channels). Evidently, Yoga and Ayurveda are totally intertwined sciences and life practices. As avid facilitators of this Vedic wisdom, we endeavour to share authentic Yoga and Ayurveda on your retreat whilst still adapting its application to suit the modern day seeker.

Ayurveda – An Ancient Art Ayurveda is a holistic science orientated towards prevention and health maintenance of an individual. In your consultation, we will address all the contributing factors, be it physical, The Yoga Sutras define 8 limbs of Yoga. Yama environmental, emotional or mental and look (abstentions including non-violence, non- at the dosha imbalances they cause. Identifying possessiveness, truth etc.), Niyama (relating to these imbalances helps to prevent ‘dis-eases’ from one’s inner self, satisfaction, cleanliness, study), arising. Essentially we are looking to treat the Asana (discipline of the body/postures), Pranayama root cause of diseases rather that the cumulative (control of life force/breath), Pratyahara (withdrawal symptoms. from sensory stimulus), Dharana (practice of concentration), Dhyana (meditation), Samadhi This universally applicable ’science of life’ teaches us to live in harmony with nature and in accordance to (meditative bliss). our Prakruti/constitution (dosha type). Each person Yoga & Ayurveda – Inseparable Sisters is a unique combination of three bio-energetic Yoga and Ayurveda are sister sciences with its roots forces (doshas) Vata, Pitta and Kapha made of firmly grounded in India. Vedic wisdom was scripted ether, air, water, fire and earth. Each dosha has in four original texts, Rig Veda, Sama Veda, Yajur specific characteristics, qualities and functions. Veda and Atharva Veda. Yoga originates from Yajur Veda and Ayurveda is a sub text originating from By assessing the pulse, tongue, eyes, voice, Atharva Veda. They both advocate a diet conducive skin, nails, bowel & urinary habits and through for your body type, Asanas, Pranayama (breathing inference, we can establish your Prakruti and Vikruti exercises), meditation, body purification practices, (imbalances). Addressing the digestive strength is a daily regimes, chanting, mantra and connecting to key part of the assessment as diseases are often a 68

Ayurvedic treatment extends to Pancha Karma (deep cleansing processes) that includes nasal Ayurveda considers health as having balanced errhines, enemas, emetics, purgation and blooddosha & digestive fire, properly formed body letting therapy. tissues, well functioning body systems & proper Since our Prakruti makes us as unique as a finger limination of body waste, sound mind & senses. print, our Yoga practice can too be adapted to suit We can prevent illness using interventions opposite your dosha type and reverse imbalances. in nature to re-establish balance. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a specific health issue or you want to explore optimal Perfect Location - Samata Holistic Centre wellbeing, Ayurveda has something to offer Hosting this retreat at the wonderful Samata will enable us to nourish the depths of your Yoga everyone. practice, self-awareness and natural wellbeing. Holistic & Personalised Healing The holistic approach to treatment uses diet, Your commitment will allow you to experience the nutritional and lifestyle guidance adaptable for inner freedom that Yoga & Ayurveda can offer. any culture, climate & season, herbal remedies, Samata is a truly authentic and idyllic set up for therapeutic body treatments, detoxification some detox fun in the Goan sun. Split over three processes suitable for the season and personâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s properties within close proximity and set amidst Prakruti, breathing techniques, meditation, yoga, natural organic gardens, you will find being nurtured an array of herbs, spices and vegetables. mantras, mudras, gem therapy and more. Dietary adjustments and medicines are based on the properties required to balance the person Sample Samata produce: cinnamon, clove, ginger, drawing on the concept of Rasa (taste - sweet, sour, nutmeg, coriander, parsley, sage, arugula, lettuce, salty, bitter, pungent, astringent), Guna (quality), spinach, kale, bak choi, rainbow chard, amaranth, Virya (potency hot/cold) and Vipaka (post digestive red long bean, red okra, purple & rainbow corn, pumpkin, cucumber, luffa gourd, fennel, tomatoes, effect). hibiscus flower, mango, fig, avocado, guava, There are an extensive range of equally tailored pineapple, pomelo, passion fruit, sweet lime, Ayurvedic treatment options such as Marma (energy bananas, papaya, almond, cashew and tamarind point) massage, herbal powder massage for weight trees. The expert chefs will work with us to produce management, herbal poultice massage for deeper delicious meal choices for your personalised detox degenerative issues, Shirodhara (oil pouring on the retreat. Mouth-watering? This will be the health 3rd eye), Abhyanga (hot medicated oil massage). food loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise. Come and join us! result of a digestive disturbance.

What makes a Spa necessary & successful? Illustration & Text

Joachim Haider

ame it and you can have a choice for all kinds of different spas and multitude of therapies. Be it the traditional, Ayurvedic, Medical, or Thermal Spas, there are every kind to suit your need.

Why is there such a strong desire to leave the stressful and sometimes ugly world outside the doors of a spa or wellness centre? It could be because the ego’s craving for ‘no one loves me, and there is only me’ or ‘I really do deserve to pamper my body’. Needless to say that these statements are related to a frequent visitor of spa and not if the treatment is a part of a prescription. But then there are also opinions like, why to pamper one’s body? It will become weak. It is better to work out and toughen it. Like always, the golden path lies somewhere in the middle, between maintaining your body through massages and treatments on one side and maintaining through physical fitness on the other. Especially with all the endless working hours working, sitting in front of computer screens or simply sitting for long periods of time. The solution is to be gentle with yourself, keeping in mind that our body is a gift from God; it is like a jacket so to speak, which we are allowed to wear for 70 / 80 or more years. Any unnecessary stress or unhappy emotions or an unbalanced lifestyle will harm it. I am not even talking about the abuses like alcohol, tobacco, drugs or obesity problems. It is the lack of respect for our origins, and frankly spoken, ignorance. Take for instance our beloved gadget, the mobile phone! We all know it is a transmitter and receiver after all, and this comes along with a lot of not-good-for-health radiation. Still we put them close to our ears and our body. Also men keep it in their breast pocket of their shirts, which is, if you haven’t missed biology lessons, right in front of your heart. We also don’t switch them off during our sleep, interrupting the necessary regenerating time with may be unnecessary ‘I-can’t-miss-that-call’ excuses. Friends of mine were once discussing the benefits of spa massages. One of the responses was, which is still fresh in my memory, the massage is the process of moving the muscles from the outside, what otherwise our will force does while initiating our body movements. I would like to give you a different exercise which you can try to practice during a massage. Don’t get tempted to becoming too drowsy. Instead follow the therapist hands as they move over your body while massaging; move your consciousness from within aligning with the movements of the therapist. Importance has to be given not only to the therapies and therapists but also to the exterior and interior design of the spa itself.

Now don’t allow your mind to wander to the images of ancient Roman Baths etc. Let your imagination roam slowly through a spa village which has individually designed buildings of single and couple therapy units, arranged in an open cluster; the meandering walls pleasing your eyes with unexpected visual treats; built with the local natural stone, they showcase tasteful paintings and sculptures amidst; the large roofs overhang forms enveloping you from the hectic life of the outer world; embedded in an intricately designed landscape, the fragrance of flowers, shaded trees, soothing water bodies. Now imagine gentle music is coming from a gazebo performed by real musicians, and not a canned mp3 noise … Your sensations will feast a complete different experience through this kind of new architecture. Exciting floor plans and use of energizing forms and colours will support the therapies undergone inside the spa. I recommend the above architectural design not because I am a steadfast devotee of Organic Architecture but research was done of how architectural forms and colours influence our perception and responses. Eventually our moods and mind depend on beautiful and lively sensations created by the physical atmosphere around us. In a nutshell, if you let human beings live in cold, steel-glass-concrete buildings, which suit more a bunker rather than a home or a school or an office, you can imagine the performance and output of them, because, there is nothing for the eyes to catch, nothing to cheer the heart, and finally the emptiness gets whitewashed with screaming colours from a giant TV set. If we are not already so apathetic about our senses by then, we would recognize the daily offence to our eyes, ears, and nose, just to name few of the significant sensory organs. So, how can we go beyond ‘me, my and myself’ of having a spa treatment? Extend your “I-am-feelingso-good after a spa treatment” to a place of no egoism, and do something which belongs to a broader world. Look beyond your horizon; overcome your carelessness and blindness, recklessness and rudeness, which we harbor from time to time. Do something to heal our Mother Earth with the entire rejuvenating cure you have received from a pleasant visit to a Spa. 71

Ruins of Divar

Photography Datta Gawade 73

landscape of Divar 82

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therapeutic ayurvedic bath enhances circulation, elevates energy levels, rehydrates the skin, relaxes tense muscles, promotes better sleep and balances the emotions, the mind and the nervous system. Water represents soma that has cooling and nourishing properties and associated with lunar energy. Ayurveda, the ancient science encompasses the wellbeing of mankind through a series of scientific system of diet, healing and health maintenance. Reckoned as a holistic treatment procedure Ayurveda is deeply spiritual and is just not a type of treatment, but a philosophy, which ideally combines science and celestial understanding to make life a lot better. According to Ayurveda, water is one of the important components of the five fundamental elements or Panchabhuta. As bathing is one the therapeutic activities in spa treatments, therefore it is an important part of the ayurvedic dincharya or daily routine, as a leisurely bath relaxes tense muscles, irons out a creased brow, opens clogged pores, restores moisture to the tissues, and adds a healing dimension to your

day. Several benefits from this cleansing ritual and healing bath: • It enhances and elevates physical energy levels and improves mental clarity. • It helps remove sweat, dirt and environmental toxins from the skin. • It enhances circulation, rehydrates the skin, relaxes tense muscles, and promotes better sleep. • It helps relax the mind and balance the emotions. The benefits of deMagneto™ Chemical Free Hard Water Conditioner, magnetization converts acidic water to an alkaline variety. The human body thrives on a slightly alkaline environment. Since our bodies are mainly composed of water, the benefits of magnetize water can be tremendous for our systems. deMagneto™ Chemical Free Hard Water Conditioner is a GREEN Product, Environmentally Friendly, No External Power Required, Maintenance Free and Easy to Install.

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Viva San Joao! celebrations in sholim

n Spain they celebrate their St Fermin by running with the bulls; in Ireland they remember St Patrick with green beer and various forms of revelry. In Goa, they celebrate the Feast of John the Baptist by jumping into wells! June 24th marks the feast of St John the Baptist, locals in Goa reenact the baptism with young men of the villages jumping into wells to retrieve gifts thrown in by villagers. While the act of baptism is one explanation, another explanation of the tradition comes from the story of how John the Baptist leapt for joy in his mother, Elizabeth’s womb when she was told of Jesus’ birth. John the Baptist later went on to baptize Jesus in the river Jordan. The well is considered to be a representation of Elizabeth’s womb and a jump into it a sign of joy for the birth of Christ. This age old tradition has been a prominent part of the start-of-themonsoon celebrations in the State and is locally known as Sao Joao. On this day, one will find troops of locals making their way to various wells in the village with chants of ‘Viva San Joao’ ringing in the air. One by one each village well is jumped into with fervent enthusiasm; the owner of the well then ply’s the people of the procession with fresh fruit, food and feni! In some cases ponds and streams are also jumped into. One of the easiest ways to join in the celebrations is by 94

Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

making and donning a colourful kopel. This headgear, made from various leaves and flowers is worn on the head like a wreath. To catch a glimpse of San Joao in its entire glory one must make a trip to the vibrant village of Siolim in north Goa. The village has become synonymous with San Joao festivities with it being celebrated here for over 150 years. Here, residents take part in a colourful boat parade along the Chapora River. Each boat, locally known as a sangodd, is decorated like a parade float, some promoting messages about the environment and keeping Goa clean. Others concentrate more on the aesthetic side in the hopes of being the best boat float in the parade. The sangodd double up as floating stages on which people sing mandos (Konkani songs, the local language of Goa) and religious hymns. Making their way along the river, these vessels reach near the St Anthonyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Church where a stage and additional decorations are set up. Hundreds of spectators gather to watch the whole spectacle which also includes dance and music performances by the youth of the area. On a visit to Siolim during the Sao Joao one is sure to see a large variety of kopels made from various local flowers and leaves. The festival is more prominent in north Goa, especially in the villages of Chapora, Assagao, Anjuna, Siolim and Calangute. Locals from Baga also build their own sangodd to float along the Baga River. In the south, celebrations are more subdued, but this has not stopped 95

people from there travelling to Siolim to experience the festivities. Sao Joao organizers have through the years tried to maintain a certain standard for the annual event. While many companies and brands have tried to use the event as a marketing stage, the festival has managed to prevent becoming commercialized â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a reason that locals say is why the festival has managed to stay unique. Taking a tourist turn to the well jumping celebrations, today, the traditions have made way to alternate celebrations in the form of pool parties. Around Goa, hotels and private pool owners host festivities with music, food, drinks and a number of pool games. Next time, you are in Goa on the 24th of June make sure you gather up your flowers and leaves turn it into a beautiful kopel and head to the nearest water body to celebrate the vibrant feast- Viva San Joao!

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Maya Spa The Zuri White Sands, Goa Resort & Casino

ystical and magical, ‘Maya’ is the ability to transform an illusion into reality. Maya Spa is spread over 520 sq.mts with 5 treatment rooms and an outdoor hut. The Maya Spa at The Zuri White Sands, Goa Resort & Casino is a venue to head to for some pampering of the body and soul. Maya Spa is The Zuri’s own signature line of premium spas which has been designed to help you refresh, rejuvenate and re– energize. The therapies on offer include Ayurvedic, Western and Oriental systems of healing and rejuvenation with a range of over 50 health and beauty treatments, massages, body scrubs and wraps, facials and intensive foot and hand therapies. Ayurveda is much more than the well– being of the body. Ayurveda defines health as ‘purity’ of the body, mind and soul. With a bouquet of Ayurvedic massages on offer, there are separate steam rooms, saunas and Jacuzzis for men and women The Royal Princess Makeover, one of our Signature treatments has been awarded as the Best Signature Treatment at Asia SPA India Awards 2009. Maya Signature Therapies Royal princess make over - brings out the princess in you with a transformation from head to toe in just 3.5 hrs. Walk out into the world with confidence, glowing with your new found beauty. We firmly believe that princesses are made, not born. Sanjeevani experience - An anti-stress therapy which involves pouring warm medicated oil over the forehead after a full body massage, which has a positive 102

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effect on the emotional well-being. This is followed by the Mukhalepam which is an Ayurvedic facial, and concluded by the floral bath. Zuri beauty - A unique combination of wellness and beauty treatment which makes you fit and beautiful. A relaxing Swedish massage followed by a traditional Ayurvedic herbal facial that cleanses, hydrates, refreshes and relaxes you, giving your skin a fresh and radiant look. Das Schone - A total beauty treatment of the body from head to toe, where you can experience a body massage with aroma oil, body scrub (honey + sugar), body pack and face pack (herbal mud pack), which will revitalize your skin giving a fresh radiant look. Floral indulgence - To relax your body and mind, indulge in a relaxing massage with medicated oils, followed by a soothing luxurious floral bath. Das Volbad - Experience royal ancient baths like the Romans with red wine, rose petals, flowers and milk. Ayurveda Healing Therapies Maya pure indulgence - Warm medicated oil is poured in a streamline at the third eye centre which is the main chakra where all the nervous activity is concentrated. This soothes the mind, relieves stress and improves sleep and concentration of the mind. This therapy is combined with a body massage which has a positive effect on the emotional well being. Maya cure - After a full body massage with warm medicated oil, fomentation is given with hot herbal poultices dipped in warm medicated oil. This healing fomenting therapy relieves tense muscles, sore joints, body aches and stiffness of the spine. Pizhichil - A gentle flow of warm medicated oil all over the body with a gentle massage aimed to keep the body fit and healthy and prevent premature ageing, which provides a fresh surge of energy and leaves your entire body relaxed and refreshed. Highly recommended in arthritic and neurological conditions. Navarakizhi - Cooling fomentation treatment 104

in which the whole body is made to perspire by external application of bags of medicinal rice called navara, which is cooked in herbal decoctions and milk. This treatment softens the skin, enhances the complexion, strengthens body muscles and cures the stiffness of the joints. Mukhalepam - A traditional Ayurvedic herbal facial that cleanses, hydrates, refreshes and relaxes you. It will nourish the skin to impart a radiant look. Neem Mukhalepam - Neem combined with the wonderful benefits of green tea gives a nourished matte tone to the skin. Suitable for normal to oily skin. Sandalwood Mukhalepam - Sandalwood in combination with honey helps in moisture balance, micro circulation and deep cleansing, leaving the skin healthy and radiant. Suitablefor dry to normal skin. Papaya Mukhalepam - Rich in antioxidants, fresh papaya refreshes and hydrates the skin, leaving it with a nourished radiant look. Suitable for all skin types. Tanlepa - A body massage to relieve the muscular tension and a full body mask of herbal powder, resulting in a cool, fresh and rejuvenated self. Shirodhara -A stream of warm medicated oil poured over the forehead at the third eye centre, which transports you to a different level of mental peace. This treatment is recommended for sleeplessness, mental stress and for improving memory. Choorna swedam - A whole body treatment with a bundle of herbal powder which is dipped in warm medicated oil. Highly recommended for muscular pain,body aches, and joint pains and especially for back aches. Kateevasti - Warm medicated oil kept within a herbal paste boundary around the lumbo-sacral spine relieves lumbo-sacral pain by easing related muscular spasms and inflammation. Udwarthanam -A traditional dry massage using herbal powder, which helps to remove dead cells, deplete fat and strengthen the muscles.

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Spa Alila Alila Diwa Goa Pampering choices on offer...

pa Alila at Alila Diwa Goa is an exclusive retreat for those seeking a relaxing environment to rejuvenate and refresh mind and body. Its tranquil setting overlooking lush green paddy fields offers a sanctuary for relaxation, with experienced therapists providing a world of gracious hospitality. The spa at Alila Diwa Goa incorporates a highly trained team who offer consultations and personal attention to every guest to ensure customised treatments that suit individual needs. The spaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique treatments blend ancient Asian healing techniques with age-old beauty recipes featuring the curative benefits of fresh, natural, quality ingredients. All the products are made from a creative blend of ingredients such as indigenous plants, fruits, herbs and spices sourced from Bali. The carrier massage oils are a pure blend of sweet almond and virgin coconut oils, rich in healing, nutritive and aroma therapeutic qualities. The extensive and exclusive spa treatment menu combines both Asian, Western and Ayurveda therapy techniques and showcases Spa Alilaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special selection of natural active ingredients. Guests are able to choose from a wide range of therapeutic massages, soothing facials, detoxifying body wraps and cleansing body scrubs available for both ladies and gentlemen. All treatments begin with a personalized consultation where guests are presented with cool or warm scented towels, served along with some refreshing herbal tea. During their consultation, they are also given the opportunity to

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select from a range of Alila signature massage oils which will be used for their treatment. They are then treated to a relaxing footbath before commencing their treatment. Guests are also invited to build their own spa package with a variety of interchangeable product elements and treatment enhancements. After their treatment, guests may continue their pampering in the scenic outdoor patio where they can enjoy delicate herbal teas and fresh juices. Spa Alila’s facilities at Alila Diwa Goa comprise of nine state-of-the-art treatment rooms with an inbuilt steam room, outdoor chilled showers, private changing rooms, outdoor gardens and lounge beds. To cater for couples who wish to undergo the relaxing experience together, the spa provides two couple spa suites featuring private outdoor jacuzzis, his and her vanity stations, two adjustable treatment beds and loungers for relaxing or having foot baths, pedicure and manicure treatments. The facilities also include a spectacular infinity pool, yoga centre offering a range of exercise, yoga and meditation sessions, a fitness centre and a salon. Guests looking to take home a bit of their spa experience can purchase from Spa Alila’s extensive range of therapeutic skin care products. Available at the merchandise section at the spa reception or the Alila Living Retail Center, these products are imported from Bali and are 100% pure and natural.

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The Journey of Tatva Elements Spa A Goan destination with an International experience...

atva has been inspired from the Sanskrit word Panchtatva which means essence or elements, which is what you connect to with that perfect blissful spa experience. Tatva celebrates peace, celebrates freedom, Tatva helps you be just you. Infact by now you’ve probably noticed the signs around Goa reading, ‘Tatva Elements Spa.’the only family Spa, That’s because with 11 outlets, Tatva is the largest and fastest growing spa chain in the state. Goa is a state of calm and quiet, where people come to relax and rejuvenate. In Tatva’s case, it’s about details, and the care and attention paid to give spa-goers a truly exceptional experience. Tatva, for instance, is the only spa chain which provides a post-therapy relaxation lounge for customers to relax after the treatment and bring back balance before moving out into the daily routine. Or consider the colour/light therapy offered at Tatva, where clients can choose the colour of the room that will most soothe them. If that’s not attention to detail, what is? Our vision is to create destinations for people that provide a truly relaxing mind & body experience. To make these destinations available and affordable for people from all over the world. At Tatva we offer multiple spa experience, be it in luxurious rooms, air conditioned tents, pool side, sea side and much more.

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Tatva is a family spa, with something for every family member, from the youngest to the oldest. Yes, kids are welcome, as well as old people and everybody in between! The spa offers Native, Oriental, Healing, International , Rejuvenating and Exotic therapies, with a simple goal in mind: achieving a complete balance of body, mind and soul. With a spa chain of this size, perhaps it should not come as a surprise that they offer their own range of spa products, using only the best materials. But what may surprise you is the fact that you don’t necessarily have to go to one of the 11 outlets to experience Tatva Spa! That’s because the spa offers mobile services for special occasions such as weddings and events. There are many theories and beliefs about the pursuit of human happiness. Many people find the most satisfaction through experiences, rather than material goods. And when it comes to experiences, it’s hard to beat spending time at a spa like this one. With this in mind, Tatva Spa has made it easy to turn an experience here into a gift to your loved ones, with gift vouchers that can be easily purchased. If you find yourself loving all this and wanting more of it, you might want to consider signing up for a Tatva Privilege membership card – available at all Tatva outlets – with attractive discounts for frequent visitors. With all these offerings, one might assume Tatva Spa is the kind of place that breaks the bank. In truth, prices are quite reasonable – and you need not be Mukesh Ambani to rejuvenate yourself here. Chances are, there’s a Tatva Elements Spa near you. Check one out! Tatva has begun its journey, and it continues ……

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Villa Alina Portuguese Tradition with a Modern Twist

illa Alina, Goa, is a beautiful ancestral home built on Calangute beach sand in North Goa and has been lovingly restored to its former glory with the addition of some modern luxuries to make your stay memorable. This traditional Portuguese home was built in 1926 by Antonio Jasso Nazareth, who named it after his wife Alina. Back then, it was built on a deserted Calangute beach and today it feels like an oasis of tranquillity in the midst of the enjoyable hustle and bustle of the surrounding area. On arrival at Villa Alina, during the high season, guests are greeted with fresh flower garlands, refreshing cold water drinks and fragranced iced flannels. A welcome hamper is also provided to help start the holiday! With its impressive private infinity pool, five ensuite air-conditioned bedrooms, sumptuous soft furnishings and antiques, Villa Alina can currently sleep up to 14 guests within its spacious surroundings. It has a growing reputation as an exclusive holiday destination which perfectly balances traditional Goan living with luxurious modern comforts. It is one of the few properties along the coastline available to one large group of up to 14 guests, rising to 18 from next season. The property is offered as one unit and not rented out on a single room basis. The minimum charge is for four nights, although many choose to stay a week or longer.

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With the installation of monsoon blinds around the villa, many guests from around India and beyond enjoy a long weekend at Villa Alina during the rainy season for a fun mix of sunshine and rain! The amazing back veranda is the ideal setting for Al fresco dining, with a large table and seating for twelve people and more. There is nothing better than relaxing on the antique bed swing which was sourced from a Maharajah’s Palace. The perfect place to enjoy the famous Goa sunsets is on ‘The Balcony’ which can be reached via a spiral staircase from the back veranda. After a hard day at the beach, the sea is three minutes away, enjoy sundowners whilst gazing at the stunning sunset! Although rented on a self-catering basis, continental breakfasts are provided as well as a daily maid service, laundry service and 24/7 security. Some of the best restaurants in Goa are on Villa Alina’s doorstep and most are happy to provide takeaways to enjoy on the veranda. In fact, the staff will go the extra mile to assist and advise on guests’ needs. The manager, Henry, is the second generation of his family to join the Villa Alina team. He was born locally and is an expert on everything Goa! In true Goan style, Henry will go out his way to exceed guests expectations! They become part of the extended VA family! Once settled into the comfortable luxury of the villa, guests can begin planning how they want to spend their time. The house manager will be able to assist with many ideas. Numerous past guests have celebrated a special occasion such as a birthday, family re-union or just being all together. Villa Alina can organise fireworks, music, outside catering, home cooked dinners and barbeques, poolside and on the veranda. This will be at the discretion of the manager, depending on group

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size but please ask for further details. The manager can also arrange: • Trips to local attractions such as Old Goa, Spice Plantation, Cashew Nut Factory, Elephant Rides, Waterfall Sightseeing, etc. • Taxis – Large Mini-buses or taxis can be booked for day trips. Villa Alina supports the local economy and have a list of very trustworthy taxi drivers who are used regularly for short and longer trips. • Yoga, Reflexology, Beauty Treatments and Massages can be arranged at the villa. These can take place in the privacy of your room or by the pool. The owners of Villa Alina, their children and their grandchildren plan to enjoy this wonderful, comfortable ancestral home for many years to come but are also happy to rent it out to guests who enjoy staying in this type of self catering luxury. Most people who visit Goa for the first time always return and we believe that Villa Alina will have that same memorable effect on all its guests!

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Exclusive for WO’GOA readers: Valid for bookings made until December 31st 2014 From October 2014 we will be able to accommodate up to 18 people at Villa Alina. To celebrate the completion of our two new Beach Rooms, we are happy to offer WO’GOA readers the following Welcome Gifts: Guests staying a week or more: Free transfers from the airport and a case of Kingfisher beer. Guests staying less than a week: A case of Kingfisher beer. To receive this offer, please mention “WOGOA 14 OFFER” when booking at www.villaalina.com

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Sandalwood Hotel & Retreat Text Vijaya Pais Photography Datta Gawade

andalwood Hotel and Retreat is known for being an oasis of quiet solitude nestled in lush greenery. Located conveniently in the plush, up market Dona Paula area, with the perfectly clean silver shores of Vainguinim beach just a mere three minutes away, while Panjim city with its bustling nightlife, casinos and restaurants is about 12 minutes away. The hotel houses 69 rooms ranging from Penthouses, two bedroom suites and one bedroom suites- perfect for a family holiday to deluxe premier rooms and deluxe compact rooms- the perfect abode for a romantic getaway. Sandalwood was originally built as a holiday home, which was later converted into a hotel. The aura at this retreat is so serene it almost feels like your home away from home. The wide range of rooms are tastefully done up in muted shades of cream and brown contrasting against the burst of greenery outside. The rooms come equipped with free Wi-Fi connectivity, an ironing board, hair dryer, kettle, refrigerator and a flat screen TV with a choice of international channels. Ensuring a comfortable stay the hotel also offers 24 hours in-room dining, laundry service, a house doctor on call and other services. You don’t need to travel too far to be wined and dined, as the hotel has its own in-house restaurants and bars. The ‘Sea Pearl’ restaurant serves up a

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A hotel and retreat situated far enough from the bustling city yet close enough to everything Goa is famous for

wonderful multi cuisine buffet for lunch and dinner as well as an A la carte menu. The ‘Upper Coast Café’ is the perfect setting to have a meal or enjoy a light snack after a swim. The outdoor ‘Salud Latino bar’ comes alive in the evenings with enchanting fairy lights and piped music. Make yourself comfortable at the antique wooden bar while you soak in the great Goan hospitality. ‘Caitan n Joe’ the quaint pool side bar gives you a taste of being at one of Goa’s ubiquitous drinking dens -a great place to shoot some pool and down some local brews while admiring the caricatures of Caitan and Joe on the walls. Holidays in Goa are incomplete without a healthy dose of rest, relaxation and recreation; we discovered all 3 R’s at Sandalwood. Take a dip in the outdoor swimming pool or lounge on the pool bed with your favorite book, hit the gym or walk through the well manicured lush garden, and when you’re done indulge in an aromatic massage at the Tatva Spa. Venturing into the city is quite convenient with the free shuttle service to Panjim in the morning and the shuttle to Dona Paula circle in the evening. The travel desk is on call for various other sightseeing adventures. Book into the Sandalwood for a feel of Goa away from the tourist hot spots, the hotel and retreat offers you a much needed break at a great rate. It is no wonder that they have won the ‘Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence’ consecutively for the past three years! 119

GO GOA! Heidi Fuller-love Goa’s Café Culture

ravel writer Heidi Fuller-love’s regular column packed with insiders tips on how to get the best out of your time in gorgeous Goa. (www.heidifuller-love.com) Big chain cafes might be all the rage elsewhere, but here in Goa small cafes are still the most popular places to sit and sip. Whether it’s an open air café serving iced coffee, an historic property where you’ll find superb shakes or a chilled venue serving organic goodies, Goa’s cafes are an essential part of The Sunshine State’s laidback way of life. Here is my pick of the best. B ES T F O R FA SH ION AD D IC TS What? Surrounded by glorious sprawling gardens, this hip al fresco, Mediterranean-style café in a stunningly renovated Portuguese house has its own boutique selling everything from homewares, to locally designed women’s style items and owner Moshe’s range of handcrafted leather accessories. Come to this popular local retreat to sip iced coffee and freshly squeezed juices, try some of the home baked food, or sup on a range of snacks made with organic produce, including delicious extra virgin olive oil and rich, locally-sourced wild honey. Where? Artjuna café, Shop H. No. 972 | Monteiro Vaddo, Anjuna. Insider’s tip? If you want to linger longer, take one of Artjuna’s regular yoga and Pilates classes. Families with young kids will be glad to learn that Artjuna also has a shaded children’s play area. B ES T F O R H ISTO RY AD D IC TS What? One of Goa’s oldest cafés, Hanuman Cold Drinks has been operating since 1946. Created by Vasant Shetty and now run by his sons Ashok, Santosh and Dilip, this family run business has barely changed over the decades and you’ll still find original posters on the walls, simple wooden

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seating and the famed fruit salad topped with icecream and custard, which has been on the menu since Vasant Shetty opened for business. Renowned for the quality of it’s competitively priced beverages, Hanuman’s milk shakes and fresh lime sodas are legendary. Where? Hanuman Cold Drinks, Nizari Bhavan, Panjim. Insider’s tip? At lunchtime Hanuman’s is popular with college students, so make sure you get there early to get a seat. BEST FOR CAKE ADDICTS What? This blissfully cool garden café close to Taj Holiday Village is famed throughout Goa for its superb coffee and delicious cakes, ranging from carrot cake to double chocolate brownie. They also serve a range of well-filled sandwiches, crepes, scones and iced coffees. Where? Café Chocolatti, 409 A, Fort Aguada Road Candolim. Insider’s tip? Try the ginger lime fizz drink, or the scrumptious lemon fizzle cake and make sure to buy a bag of the cafes delicious home made chocolate truffles to take home. BEST FOR MEETING ADDICTS What? A favourite meet up spot for locals, because there’s easy parking in the vicinity, this lively friendly café situated in a five star hotel, serves fresh brewed coffee and a superb range of healthy snacks, including nutritious salads and sandwiches. There is also a wide variety of home-made ice creams on offer (try the vanilla and dark chocolate gelato) and lots of mouthwatering chocolate desserts. Where? Caramel, Vivanta by Taj, off D.B. Bandodkar Road, Panaji. Insider’s tip? If you’re in a hurry ask for one of Caramel’s wonderful takeouts (try the succulent biryani) and don’t worry about the bill – although it’s inside a five star hotel, food here is competitively priced. 121

WOK & ROLL South Asian in the heart of Sinquerim Text

Vijaya Pais

tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s love at first bite at Wok & Roll! The sweet strains of South East Asia will stir your soul, making you want to go back for more. The pleasant eatery is like an oasis in the otherwise maddening Candolim-Sinquerim area. Comfortably nestled on the picturesque road leading to the Sinquerim lighthouse, is where you will find Wok & Roll- a haven for the hungry seekers of South East Asian cuisine. You begin to feel the spa like serenity as soon as you settle into your seat. The first thing that strikes you is the unobstructed view of the pretty Nerul Creek, with its little boats bobbing in the distance, the subtle sounds of Buddha Bar playing in the background and the extremely hospitable service staff. Wok & Roll was started by three partners Alwyn Mascarenhas, Asheen Lobo and Joe Dias. They came together to create this labor of love out of their pure passion for food. They worked on the interiors and exteriors independently handpicking everything you see at the restaurant. The four page menu has been created to be as authentic as possible, with a slight leeway for innovation and experimentation. It is concise yet varied enough to take you on a gastronomical trip around South East Asia-covering everything from Sri Lanka, Burma, Cambodia to Japan and 122

everything in between. Every effort is made to match the flavors of the East. The brilliant Chef makes everything in-house using the freshest of produce. You will find galangal shrubs, basil plants, a variety of chilies, pumpkin creepers among other edible flora growing wild and free in the garden, eventually making their way to your plate. Every dish on the menu is steeped in flavor yet simple and wholesome. Try the ‘honey glazed pot roast pork spare ribs’, a dish the restaurant is famous for. The Indonesian ‘Sumatra Fish Curry’ also known as Gulai Ikan, is a dish that comes highly recommended. The herbal fish curry is made with simmering fish pieces in a creamy spice paste of turmeric, chilies, shallots and garlic, infused with the flavor of basil. ‘Cambodian Style Beef’ or Loc Lac is another favorite. The beef is stir fried with black pepper, cherry tomatoes and shallots. The Black Pepper Crab and the Singapore Chili Crab are delicious and an absolute must try. Almost every dish is available in a vegetarian, prawn, chicken, red meat, fish or duck option. Every month a little list of specials is introduced, paying tribute to the cuisine of a specific country in South East Asia. The month of July is dedicated to Vietnam. Wok & Roll has a fair selection of alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages to choose from, but the cocktails earn their pride of place on the bar menu. Try the ‘Doctor Wok & Roll’ it’s a great fix for a cold rainy day; the warm cocktail is made with Earl Grey tea, rum, lime and honey. The Sunday Brunch at Wok & Roll is a hit, with the locals and expatriates coming in all the way from South Goa. Axel and Joleen play a laid back set of music, making it the perfect place to be on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Wok & Roll is open from 1pm to 3pm and 7pm to 11pm. Average meal for two- INR 1200/-

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With breathtaking view of the Arabian Sea and swimming pool, Sirocco at The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort is a celebration of food, wine and art, as our Master Chef takes you on a glorious exploration of Mediterranean cuisine. The Baked Gnocchi with Asparagus and Blue cheese is something you got to try, a classic potato pasta tossed with asparagus and baked in a blue cheese cream sauce and the Grilled Tenderloin Steak with Glazed vegetables, prime fillet of beef grilled to the doneness of choice, served with garden vegetables and red wine jus.

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For the epicurean, Cidade de Goa’s array of wining and dining choices is sure to satiate the most exacting plate. At Alfama, the award winning chef specialty dining, a subtly nuanced style of food celebrates Goa’s rich culinary diversity. In an ambience of intimate balcaos and vibrant murals that recall Lisbon’s old quarter, classic Goan flavours such as Vindaloo, Rechado, Balchao Peri Peri, Cafreal, Goan Vinegar and global elements take you on a gastronomic voyage. The uniqueness of the ambience of this restaurant lies in its romantic balconies and alcoves with musicians to serenade guests most evenings. The Fado evenings held every first Tuesday of the month pays tribute to the soulful music of Portugal. So while you enjoy some soul stirring music by Fadistas you can indulge in International and Goan food. At the popular open air – Barbeque restaurant, the gentle sound of the waves lapping along the shore is interspersed with the mesmerizing hiss of your food cooked over smoldering coals. Its unique feature enables you to choose from a huge display of fresh seafood, meats and vegetables and have it prepared to your liking, making grilling truly thrilling.

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One of the finest beach shack in Goa, Cortaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s at The Lalit Golf & Spa Resort, overlooking the Arabian Sea, serves authentic Goan cuisine. Furnished with wooden floors and relaxed ambience, a must try at this beach shack is the fresh catch of the day. Watch the sun disappear over the horizon the special sun-downer cocktails. The Prawns Balchao with king prawns cooked and pickled with Goan chilies, spices and toddy vinegar. The favorite, Goan Fish Curry, fresh catch cooked with Chili, kokum, spices and coconut milk and if that is not tantalizing then you got to try the Kingfish Ambotik, Kingfish Darnes cooked in a hot and sour gravy.

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A distinctive Mediterranean feel greets you as you walk into Cidade de Goa’s all day dining restaurant, Café Azul. It offers unobtrusive views of the pool and sea which provides a light, breezy ambience where you can savor varied cuisines from around the world. The wood-fired pizza oven is Café Azul’s forte, with its thin crust pizza being the highlight. In addition to an extensive à la carte menu, Café Azul also offers a unique “buffet combo option” that enables you to enjoy a sumptuous meal.

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SEA BQ, The Lalit Golf & Spa Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open-air bar-be-que steakhouse. An excellent sea facing reataurant is a paradise for steak and seafood lovers. In addition to the centrally located live kitchen, four special tables with built-in Hibachi charcoal grills offer an entertaining and interactive dining experience where guests can assist the chef in preparing their meal. The dĂŠcor is elegant, with soft lighting enhancing the ambience. Whether you prefer the traditional steakhouse or a more hip and trendy scene, Sea bq has something for every palate. The Chermoula Prawns is a must, king prawns marinated in red onions, mint, parsley and lemon and cooked over Charcoal.

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GAZEBO is The Lalit Golf & Spa Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Polynesian-themed sunken bar, located adjacent to the swimming pool. A wide selection of sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, salads, a range of mocktails and cocktails. Featuring a bar counter ringed by bar stools, Gazebo offers the perfect ambience for a quick bite.

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The Lalit Golf & Spa Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multi-cuisine restaurant Cancona reflecting traditional Portuguese inspiration, showcases a range of cuisine, from authentic Ă -la-carte Goan dishes to Indian, Oriental and Continental specialties. The highlights of the restaurant is the open kitchen with a live pizza oven serving thin crust pizzas with choice of toppings. The Ros Omelet served with local poi bread for breakfast (a local style flat omelet with chicken or vegetable curry and served with a rustic Goan bread). The Smoked Salmon and crusted potato salad, a traditional smoked salmon rosettes served chilled with a salad of potato, horseradish, red onions and cream. The Crusted Red Snapper with Balsamic vegetables, fillets of Red Snapper, crusted with Herb and breadcrumbs and panseared with vegetables glazed in Balsamic and to end a great meal with Chocolate marquise, rich chocolate mousse with melted butter and cream on a base of chocolate fudge

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Derived from the Portuguese word for orange, Laranja at Cidade de Goa is renowned for its multi-cuisine buffet as well as the seafood specialties on its Ă la carte menu. A show kitchen with live cooking counters, wide ranging salad sections, a dedicated area for delectable desserts, along with its vibrant orange dĂŠcor, makes Laranja a lively place for your meals.

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The Coconut Grove at the Bogmallo Beach Resort, one of Goaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very first luxury 5 Star Resort is nestled on the secluded white sands of Bogmallo beach. The resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sea front multicuisine restaurant serves excellent Goan, Continental and other Indian delicacies. Providing an ambience of a beach shack this place is perfect for a quiet evening meal with soft scintillating music.

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The Lalit Golf & Spa Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sports bar - VERI FENI, decorated with paintings by the renowned Indian cartoonist Mario Miranda, Veri Feni offers a variety of cocktails, wines, beers, spirits, liqueurs and cigars. Try your hand at a game of cards or snooker or catch live sporting events on the television screen.

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Café de Goa

f you happen to be swinging past the chaos, that is Calangute, we recommend stopping for a breather at the quaint fairy tale like ‘Café de Goa’. The little garden café is easy to spot with its picturesque red tower in the background. The perfect stop over for a light breezy meal in the sweltering heat or rain, the café is open from 9 AM to 5.30 PM through the year. This earthy café has its own little lending library, toys and games for kids, making it a great place for kiddies and adults to spend a nice relaxed day. Emily Trems the German born chef behind the café gives us a taste of central European flavors with a local twist. Her years travelling around the world are mirrored in her menu as she is constantly looks out for new inspiration and ways to twist local delicacies into exciting new creations. On the menu one can find comfort food like fresh salads, sandwiches, bagels, pastas, fresh juices, iced teas and lattes, yoghurt and milk shakes, spritzers and more. Sample the popular ‘Vegetarian Quiche’ made with spinach, mushrooms and goat’s cheese or the ‘BLT’ bacon, lettuce and tomatoes with egg on freshly baked focaccia bread. Try Emily’s delicious healthy salad, ‘The Fruit Vitaliser’ that comes with watermelon, feta, walnuts, basil, drizzled with balsamic guava jus or the scrumptious bagel with smoked salmon, sour cream, lettuce, onion, caper and cucumber. The days specials are neatly mentioned on the blackboard so don’t forget to check before you order. If you have a penchant for sweet delights then Café de Goa has its baskets brimming with options. Try the house specialty ‘Chocolate and Salted Caramel Swirl Brownies’ or the warm waffles with a variety of delicious toppings. Emily prides herself on having the best handmade baked bread in town. The café has its very own artisan bakery in Saligao generating trays full of fluffy fresh ciabatta, focaccia, bagels and baguettes, pastries and the works. Watch out for Café de Goa famous Sunday brunch which will kick off end of June. Families and friends get together to munch on this super indulgent brunch available for INR 600/-. Find the menu laid out on platters plus a whole load of internationally inspired extras that change every week. The café also has an in house grocery store that stocks organic produce, locally made products, books on Goa and Café de Goa’s very own line of seasonal preserves among other things. Average meal for two- INR 900/146

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SHIVERS

Garden Restaurant and Sports Bar

Live Music Live Sports Broadcast All day Sunday Roast English Takeaway Full Monty English Breakfast We also take Party Bookings

Add: Opp Kingfisher Villa, Candolim, Dando, Bardez, Goa. Mob: +91 9860698281 / +91 832 2479192 Email: meljinx@hotmail.com

Art Inception

Set on the beach front, at the end of Holiday Street in Calangute, is the up market shack 'Flying Dolphin'. Spread over a large area skirting the beach, this open shack with its white flowing curtains, has a Mediterranean look and is a cut above the rest. Flying Dolphin is a magnificent restaurant, where the ambience is perfect for lazy beach days, where time stands still and happiness is a state of mind, where you witness the beauty of the setting sun while soft music soothes your sensesâ&#x20AC;Ś.. a veritable temple to chill out. Flying Dolphin has a great podium-deck from where one can watch the magic of the waves lashing on the shore as you relax and enjoy Goa at its best.

Holiday Street, Gaura Vaddo, Calangute, Bardez-Goa. Contact: +91 9822132850 / 9822125850

0091 9922410832 0832productions@gmail.com

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To Advertise Joel Nazereth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in I sales@wogoa.in Ryan Largo-Afonso Call: +91 99 20370263

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Asmita Studio Goa, India.

Public Profile www.dattaram-gawade.artistwebsites.com 150

Contact: +91 90494 41177/dattagawade@gmail.com www.asmitastudio.com

Art Inception

Contact us for.. ► Commercial Photography, ► Model portfolios, ► Portraits, ► Interior Photography, ► Product Photography, ► Industrial Photography, ► Jewelry shoots, ► Fashion Photography, ► Advertising and Editorial Photography, ► Automobile Photography, ► Travel Photography, ► Glamor Photography, ► Fine Art Photography.