‘ W GOA O
JUNE 2015
something is always brewing
CLARIDGE’S
Iconic Hotel, Iconic Designer
RAMBAGH PALACE JAIPUR Taste Of Royal Living
THE APARTMENT At The Connaught
TAJ LAKE PALACE UDAIPUR
V IC KY LA U
Most Romantic Hotel In The World
ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
ERIC FRECHON
French Haute-Couture Gastronomy
SHINYA MAEDA
Redefines Culinary Excellence
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA The Ministry of Crab
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HÉLÈNE DARROZE
WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
GOA&BEYOND L u x u r y
I c o n i c
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‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
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“THE BEST EXPERIENCE OF MY LIFE” – Kieran Holliday, UK
WE LOVE NATURE AND ITS WONDERS We believe it’s important to preserve and protect the marvels that surround us. At Modisa Wildlife Project you will become an active member in our day-to-day work, doing everything from helping to build and maintain facilities, to cleaning predator enclosures after the animals are fed. The work, combined with the activities, will bring you up-close with the animals and African culture. All the activities at Modisa – from farm work, bush walks and lectures to feeding full-grown lions, leopards and wild dogs – will challenge you both physically and mentally. They’ll ensure you have a more unique and adventurous experience in the African bush than you can ever imagine.
WHAT TO EXPECT Lectures on the ecosystem; Hiking in the wilderness with specialized guides; Sleep-outs in the African bush under the breathtaking Kalahari sky (May – October); Up-close encounters with big cats and other local predators; Opportunities to feed the animals, including lions, leopards and wild dogs; Cleaning the enclosures and fence patrol; Basic tracking training; Animal viewing & game drives; Participating in game counts and other area surveys; Farm work and daily life in the camp; Enjoying the experience with like-minded people from all over the world …and much much more.
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Conrad Maldives Rangali Island For reservations contact MLEHI.maldives@conradhotels.com or visit www.ConradMaldives.com
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W E ’ L L
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H O O S I N G
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B E Y O N D
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Le MĂŠridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina Al Sufouh Road, Jumeirah Beach, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 399 3373 l +971 55 821 6062 www.watatsumi.ae 15
experience the adventure! anytime, anyplace, anywhere!
Editor Fabian deCastro Lifestyle Editor Doug Singer Editorial Consultant Teotonio R. de Souza Feature Editor Dielle D’souza Editorial Contributor Mario Bermeo Jr Photography Arnold Noronha Photography Consultant & Creative Design Studio FJMdesign
‘ W OGOA
Publisher
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something is always brewing
WO’GOA™ is an online digital publication published by: Izzy Publishing Pvt. Ltd. Unit 14, Agnelo Colony, Kerant, Caranzalem, 403002 Goa, India Tel: +91(832) 2463234 Fax: +91(832) 2464201 sales@wogoa.in. Company registration number U22100GA2011PTC006731 Web Administrator Joel Savio Nazareth Marketing & Advertising Joel Savio Nazareth Call: +91 832 246 3234 E-mail: joel@wogoa.in
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Chef Francesco Apreda, Hassler Roma
‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
In this, our June issue, we will delve into a bright and colorful summer world. In the Mediterranean, we will visit Greece – a world-class archaeological & historical wonderland and also explore the creative interpretation of Italy’s gastronomic traditions with the Michelin-starred life of Francesco Apreda. We will then start globetrotting through food and travel paradise. We will visit Claridges iconic hotel whose guest rooms and suites have been designed by another icon, Diane Von Furstenburg. Then it will be off to the Apartment at The Connaught - One of David Collins Studio designed residences perched atop London’s Mayfair. For our spa lovers, you will be taken through the Mayfair’s luxurious Spa at Berkeley, as well as the spa at Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur and into the world of George Aziz at Mohegan Sun’s Elemis Spa. After working up an appetite touring the Rambagh Palace and the Taj Lake Palace,we have quite a bit in store for you starting with the beautiful surroundings of Hélène Darroze’s two Michelin-starred restaurant at the Connaught. We will delve into the culinary empire of Mario Batali’s initial foray into Hong Kong with the opening of LUPA. Take a sneak peek into the world of Paris’s Chef Eric Frechon and get a glimpse into an Asian twist on French cookery with Shinya Maeda. We will also visit with Chung Kin Leung, the former Head Chef of the Hong Kong Government House and Chefs Vicky Lau and Hélène Darroze - Verve Cliquot’s Best Asia Female Chef and World’s Best Female Chef respectively. Hungry for more? We will visit Chef Dharshan Munidasa’s famed The Ministry of Crab and head off to Cambodia for Joannès Rivière - Cuisine Wat Damnak. Few chefs have the honour of cooking for international dignitaries, but Chef Chung Kin Leung is one of them. Originally from Perth, Chef Dave Pynt at Singapore’s Burnt Ends is making waves - waves which will carry us back across the world to Manhattan where we will explore the culinary world of Bill Telepan. Add to that Summer Sake Cocktailks, Signature Dishes from Vicky Lau, David Rocco and Eric Frechon and we believe you have an issue that will keep you busy for some time. For those of you constantly on the go, the team at WO’GOA is excited to announce the arrival of our new App. The Android App is ready to be installed and the iOS will be available before June 10th. Doug Singer Lifestyle Editor 17
‘ GOA W O ™
something is always brewing
CONTENTS 26
Greece - a world-class archaeological & historical wonderland...
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Vicky Lau - Asia’s Best Female Chef
54
Francesco Apreda - creative contemporary cuisine
66
Hélène Darroze - World’s Best Female Chef
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CLARIDGE’S - ICONIC HOTEL, ICONIC DESIGNER
82
Taj Rambagh Palace – Taste of Royal Living
92
The Apartment at The Connaught
94
Taj Lake Palace – Most Romantic Hotel in the World
104
The Spa at Berkeley, Mayfair London
106
The Face of Hospitality
108
The Oberoi Spa – Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur
18
EVO Salted Cod, Salty Sand Blend Chef Francesco Apreda, Hassler Roma
Mario Batali – New York Celebrity Chef
110
Chef Eric Frechon – French Gastronomy
118
Chef Shinya Maeda - Culinary Excellence
128
The Ministry of Crab
142
Joannès Rivière - Cuisine Wat Damnak
154
Chef Chung Kin Leung
162
Simple, Rustic and a Unique style of cooking
172
The World of Telepan 176 Cocktails with a New Dimension at Watatsumi 180 The Champagne Room at the Connaught
182
Signature Dishes 186 19
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CORINTHIA HOTEL LONDON, WHITEHALL PLACE, LONDON SW1A 2BD, UK +44 (0) 20 7930 8181 | RESERVATIONS.LONDON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM /LONDON 20
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A FRESH NEW STAR HAS LANDED IN RAK Introducing Red Star Wok Asian Cuisine Prepare for the freshest, tastiest Cantonese, Szechuan and Asian dishes cooked on the spot by Chinese chefs and served straight to your table overlooking Ras al Khaimah Corniche’s lush mangroves. For all you healthy eaters, you’ll be pleased to know that we use locally grown organic vegetables, when in season and available.
RAK CORNICHE. Tel: 07 233 9337, Web: REDSTARWOK.COM.
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GREECE A HISTORICAL WONDERLAND - VISITGREECE.GR
Greece
a world-class archaeological & historical wonderland...
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Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion 27
GREECE A HISTORICAL WONDERLAND - VISITGREECE.GR
Greece
a captivating land Understandably, Greeks treasure their culture. It gives them more than a sense of partaking in a common identity, moulded over more than 3,500 years of recorded history. It also gives them a sense of gratification for contributing to the global community. The Greek heritage is embedded in the Greek psyche and yet it is open to all. More than 5,000 years of cultural riches – from Neolithic finds to striking examples of contemporary art have found a hospitable home in more than 300 national and private museums. From the small everyday items to the grand sculptures, the Greek spirit is everywhere on display. The country is filled with UNESCO designated “World Heritage Sites” (Acropolis, Olympia, Aigai, Delphi, Delos, Epidaurus, Bassae, Samos, Mount Athos, Meteora, Mystras, Mycenae, Tiryns, Patmos, Thessaloniki, Daphni, Chios, Rhodes, Old Town of Corfu), bequeathing to the world exquisite works of art, stunning archaeological discoveries, icons of rare beauty and grandiose buildings. Come to “know thyself”, as the renowned philosopher Socrates would prompt you to do. Climbing up the “Sacred Rock” - the Acropolis, which embodies the very idea of world heritage. A symbol of enduring achievements of the human spirit, Acropolis is home to four masterpieces of classical Greek art, built about 2,500 years ago Parthenon, Propylaea, Erechtheion and the Temple of Athena Nike. This is one of the reasons why the “Sacred Rock” is considered a cornerstone of western civilization, an architectural masterpiece waiting to be discovered by every visitor. Set only 800 feet away, the new Acropolis Museum brings together all the surviving artefacts ever found on the site. 28
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Acropolis of Athens 29
GREECE A HISTORICAL WONDERLAND - VISITGREECE.GR
Zappeion Hall
Academy of Athens 30
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Marathon, the site of one of the most celebrated battles in world history. A simple burial mound commemorates the 192 Athenians who died a heroic death defeating the much greater Persian forces and saving the city. But more than that, the battle of Marathon was a pivotal moment in European history by defining - in effect - the boundaries and culture of the West. Peloponnese where Tyrins exudes the Mycenaean grandeur of a fortress town, complete with captivating ruins of Cyclopean walls. Trace the vestiges of Roman Thessaloniki, the Arch of Galerius, the Rotunda and the Roman Agora. Going southwest to Aigai, the ancient first capital of the Kingdom of Macedonia, discovered near Vergina. One of the Royal Tombs in the Great Tumulus is identified as that of legendary Philip II, the father of Alexander the Great. The majestic gold larnax (ossuary), with the sixteen-pointed star of the royal Macedonian family is a must-see. Crossing the deep blue waters and travel back to one of the oldest civilizations, the Cycladic; the Sacred Island of Delos where the god Apollo was born and visit Santorini with the prehistoric city in Akrotiri. Sail to Crete where the Minoan palace of Knossos continues to weave myth with architectural grandeur and unparalleled wall paintings. The feeling of going back in time as you stroll through long, pillared halls, climb up the grand staircase, enter the throne-room complex and end up at the queen’s Megaron apartments. Each nook and cranny is a surprise and a bewitching image. Around every corner something new and exciting emerges before you. Lush or stark. Serene or harsh. Unruly or harmonious. Pictures of Greek culture, one after another, are as dazzling as golden florins. Toppled columns, statues, ruins of ancient temples. Agamemnon and
Bronze deer at the harbour - Dodecanese, Rhodes 31
GREECE A HISTORICAL WONDERLAND - VISITGREECE.GR
The Arch of Hadrian or commonly known in Greek as Hadrian’s Gate
The Tholos at the base of Mount Parnassus 32
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Clytemnestra walked these very grounds. Electra waited for Orestes. Today they all come alive in ancient plays performed in the original theatres. Myths intertwined with customs, stories, and art can be found everywhere from the islands to continental Greece. Mosaics and frescoes. Charms, dreams, fables. Byzantine domes that stare doggedly at the heavens. Surrounded by sea and golden sand. Shady archways, windmills, tall proud towers. The sun scatters its bounty with an open hand. Each picture is taken straight form Greek nature and culture. An old wise crone sits outside her house in the street embroidering. The balcony of another house is strewn with tomatoes left to dry in the sun. The images disappear and pop up again. They keep you company along a path on majestic Mount Athos or in a shadowed arcade of one of its monumental monasteries. Beauty has defined Greece’s cultural course through the ages. Ancient, Byzantine and Modern Greek civilization has always idealized beauty, which has been a constant in Greek tradition and the warmth of celebrated Greek hospitality. Greece is a magnet for visitors, men of letters and intellectuals. Peregrinations were captured in beautiful pictures and famous words. European and world travellers visited this country in ever increasing numbers from the mid-eighteenth century onwards and left voluminous and varied accounts of their journeys. Thirst for knowledge lured visitors and continues to capture their attention. Antiquity was and still is an open invitation that draws westerners and many more to Greece. Archaeologists and antiquarians, lovers of Classical philosophy, history and letters, came to the country, paid tribute to the world of ancient Greece and spread the word to the rest of the world. They were and still are the best ambassadors of Greek culture. Visit Greece and experience it for what it is: a worldclass archaeological and historical wonderland. www.visitgreece.gr 33
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
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WO’GOA
Vicky Lau VEUVE CLICQUOT ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2015
A true creative spirit, Vicky Lau, graduated from New York University in 2004 with a degree in Graphic Communications, six years later she pursued her passion for food. Enrolling at the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in Bangkok. The experience gave her the opportunity to combine her artistic instincts, sense of style and appreciation for fine dining. As a designer, Vicky wanted to add another element or dimension to her design, and choosing food because it incorporates a lot of senses, from the visual to the smells, so she loved the idea of it being interactive - it’s combining graphic arts and culinary arts. With her Grand Diplôme from Le Cordon Bleu, Vicky began her career at Michelin-starred Cépage where she earned a reputation as one of Hong Kong’s most promising chefs. This experience helped her develop her own style, learn an appreciation for seasonal ingredients and focus on details. In 2012 Vicky opened Tate Dining Room & Bar in Hong Kong’s SoHo district. Driven to inspire, the 26-seat restaurant serves an eclectic mix of French and Asian cuisines and has been awarded a Michelin star every year since opening. Vicky creates ‘Edible Stories’ with each dish conveying an overarching theme, abstract concept or memory. The presentation of the dish provides the narrative where each ingredient is its own character and the interplay between the nuanced flavours, aromas and textures reveal the plot. Her detail-oriented approach also means she’s focused on the flow of the menu. “For me, it’s like listening to a great album – it has diversity but it has a natural flow that connects all the pieces,” she explains. “You consider all the elements, from the flavour profiles, to the contrasting textures. For me, cooking is a harmony of art, craft and science.”
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VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
“THE FISHERMAN” scallop mousse, taraba crab, yuzu gelée and shiso 36
WO’GOA
Vicky Lau speaks with WO’GOA about her passion, influences, creations, she recalls her childhood memories, and offers advice for young chefs. WO’GOA: Tell us about your formative years, how did you find your way into the culinary field to become Asia’s Best Female Chef and what inspired you to pursue this profession professionally? Vicky Lau: I grew up living with my grandfather who is a foodie from the Chiu Chow province and most of the meals cooked at home were based on traditional Chiu Chow cuisine with a mix of Cantonese. I would always hear the stories about how dishes were made and the differences in the vegetable varieties. On weekends my parents would often take us out for meals and very often it would be Japanese food as that is my mum’s favorite cuisine. I never learned how to cook until high school when I had to cook for myself in boarding school in the United States. With dining hall food being the only source of meals, very often the foreign students would crave for home-cooked food. On weekends we would gather in each other’s dorm rooms and cook up a storm with a mini electric stove and rice cooker. The dishes mainly consisted of steamed rice with curry and we’d get very creative with our bowls of ramen noodle. After I graduate from New York University in 2004, I worked in a local advertising agency there for several years. I returned to Hong Kong in 2007 and set up my own design company. As a designer, I always felt there was something missing but that gap was filled when I went with two friends to do a basic course at Le Cordon Bleu in Bangkok in 2010,when it finished I wanted to do more and therefore enrolled the grand diploma. A recreational stint at the Le Cordon Bleu Bangkok culinary school taught me that food, as a medium of expression, was a far more liberating canvas to explore creativity because of the added dimensions of taste and smell. You also have the instant gratification of seeing someone enjoy your food. 37
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
The curriculum at Le Cordon Bleu was very extensive. Since I was enrolled in the Grand Diplôme program, it was rigorous but rewarding and we were learning cuisine and pastry in a short nine months. The chefs at that time taught us techniques, but also shared stories from their kitchen experiences. They were also open to exploring the use of local ingredients, which teaches you to use whatever is available. I believe that Hong Kong is a place for opportunity and entrepreneurship and, driven by my love for creative work, I set out to make a home for her passion. WO’GOA: Your culinary creations are ‘Edible Stories’ each ingredient has its own character and each dish conveying an overarching theme which then transforms into a harmony of flavor, aroma and texture, how do you bring this balance on the plate and could you share one of these stories? Vicky Lau: At Tate Dining Room & Bar, we visualise and internalize the theme or memory and imagine how we can convey this. We think about the sounds, smells and colours this might evoke. Have we been this be¬fore? What are the sensations that anchor our representation of this scene? Once we’ve distilled everything down, we then reconstruct everything to create the theme using food. The presentation of the dish provides the narrative where each ingredient is its own character and the interplay between the nuanced flavours, the aromas and the textures reveal the plot WO’GOA: Having had the opportunity to be mentored by Chef Sabastien Lepinoy – the protégé of legendary Chef Joel Robuchon, how has this influenced you are as a chef today? Vicky Lau: Chef Sebastien Lepinoy inspired me a great deal, teaching me cooking techniques, the importance of detail and being aware of what was around you. His cooking philosophy, and it’s one that’s shared in all the Arts, is that Simplicity is the sign of perfection. 38
WO’GOA
“SAKURA” strawberry mousse, shiso coconut sorbet, dark chocolate branches, matcha pound cake and raspberry gel 39
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
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WO’GOA
“You consider all the elements, from the flavour profiles, to the contrasting textures. For me, cooking is a harmony of art, craft and science.”
41
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
WO’GOA: From graphic design in New York to Asia’s Best Female Chef, take us through your journey of becoming a chef, the inspiration to pursue your career in the culinary field? Vicky Lau: When I was studying in New York, food TV shows had just become popular. I would watch endless hours of food shows on the Food Network. I would often attempt to try these recipes on my own since New York supermarkets offer a huge variety and quality. As a Graphics Communications graduate and creative director, I spent several years learning how visual cues like colours or textures could be used to trigger a memory or spark the imagination. Attending culinary school, I realised that food, as a medium of expression, was a far more liberating canvas to explore creativity because of the added dimensions of taste and smell. You also have the instant gratification of seeing someone enjoy your food. 42
WO’GOA
WO’GO: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? Vicky Lau: The biggest influence would be ingredients around me and flavour profiles, either from a memory or exploring something new. As for inspiration, I think it can come from anywhere if you seek with an open mind, pay attention to what is going on around you so that you can catch that moment and think about them. Sometimes a movie or a piece of music can provoke a feeling or spark an idea, it just depends on how you interpret it and it relates to you. And sometimes interpretation can evolve over time. Your own dish can serve as a source of inspiration and evolve into another dish. This is when you create the best possible dish because you’re always trying to beat your previous best.
“5 ELEMENTS” canapé of metal, wood, water, fire and earth
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VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
“the freedom to explore our world through our cooking, free from the mandatory rigour of these rules. Like a painting, food is a canvas for expression, triggering memories, emotions and our limitless imagination”
“PICNIC UNDER CHERRY BLOSSOM VIEWING” cold buckwheat arrowroot noodle with vinegar kombu truffle dressing, osteria caviar, skewer of abalone and blue prawn, prawn gelée, broad bean, cherry blossom 44
WO’GOA
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VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
“Zen Garden” Mignardises : Matcha opera cake, jasmine macaron, coconut dark chocolate and passion fruit marshmallow
WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created and what inspired this recipe and why? Vicky Lau: One of the earliest dishes I created was “Zen Garden” which I usually serve as the last course of a meal. It consists of several items and they are changed from time to time. Nowadays, it is presented with matcha opera cake, passion fruit marshmallow, jasmine macaroon and coconut dark chocolate. It’s presented as a mini Zen garden that prompts self-reflection. This dish is a tribute to the masters of the Zen garden and the art of tea making. 46
WO’GOA
“An Ode to Tomatoes” tomatoes in different textures of panna cotta, confit, crisp, consommé and gelée, accompanied with a simple pommery mustard ice cream
Another dish would be “An Ode to Tomatoes”, inspired by a poem by Pablo Neruda. It details a busy market scene and describes the life of the humble tomato. In this dish I depict tomatoes in different textures of panna cotta, confit, crisp, consommé and gelée, accompanied with a simple pommery mustard ice cream, a perfect pair for this fruit. 47
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Vicky Lau: My style is Feminine, Creative with a focus on storytelling. I like to consider my dishes ‘Edible Stories’. Using my background in graphic design, I start with a theme, a narrative or a concept and build on that. WO’GOA: What was the feeling when you were awarded Asia’s Best Female Chef! Vicky Lau: I’m very happy, surprised and honoured to receive this award. I never intended to be “Asia’s Best Female Chef”, I just wanted to do what I love. When you have this opportunity, I think every person can be best in their own way. Since I have been raised in Hong Kong and educated in the West, I feel my work is infused with a variety of culinary influences and I am honoured that the respected industry experts voting on this award appreciate and recognise my efforts. This award is also an invitation to more opportunities, being recognized will allow me to meet more people that could inspire me and share their vision. It will help me explore more projects and collaborations in the near future. 48
WO’GOA
WO’GOA: What is Cookery to Vicky Lau? Vicky Lau: For me cooking is a harmony of art, craft and science. I am always driven by my passion to tell a story therefore the dish that best defines me is one that incorporates all these factors WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Vicky Lau: I’m currently exploring the Chinese way of preserving ingredients, from century eggs to lap cheong sausages. There are a lot of common theories between French, Chinese and Japanese cuisines and I’m always fascinated to discover the connections. WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Vicky Lau: French butter, because the quality comes from the cream. The butter is also made from slightly soured or cultured cream, which gives it a nutty, mellow tang and reacts differently when baked.
“HERBAL BEEF CONSUMME” gillardeau oyster, beef tongue, kimchi pickled daikon and daikon 49
VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
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“FOIE GRAS TOFU” tofu cubes, foie gras sauce, foie gras terrine, walnuts, grated daikon and yuzu skin
There are a lot of common theories between French, Chinese and Japanese cuisines and I’m always fascinated to discover the connections...
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VICKY LAU - ASIA’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
“MAINE” maine lobster, sweet corn purée, baby fennel, vin jaune lobster sauce and tonka bean 52
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WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Vicky Lau: Both are important to me. To ensure continuous growth of creativity and refine my cooking skills, usually I use all the elements and considering flavour profiles, contrasting textures and always questioning my methods of execution. It’s also important not to burn out and lose your passion and desire to cook. You may be cooking the same vegetable, but you need to look at it in a different way every now and then. WO’GOA: Do you have any special cooking techniques or equipment you particular enjoy using? Vicky Lau: A good fish knife and chinois to make things extra pure. WO’GOA: How important is the presentation of your dishes? Vicky Lau: As a graphic designer I understood how visual cues like form, colour, tone and texture can be used to trigger a memory or evoke a response. This understanding helps me pay attention to all the details. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Vicky Lau: Senbei, a type of Japanese rice cracker – I just love how toasty it is. Also a good piece of pastry, like the citron tart from Atelier Robuchon. WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Vicky Lau: Accept and embrace the repetition of the job. Perfect what you’re doing each day so you can bring it forward and use it as a solid foundation for building your career. Keep an open mind and learn about the culture around you. It’s also important to develop your own style and ensure the menu reflects your personality.
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FRANCESCO APREDA - HASSLER ROMA
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Francesco Apreda creative interpretation of Italy’s gastronomic traditions Born in Naples, Francesco Apreda’s passion for cooking was evident when he was 14, at first with pastry making but soon after it lead him to make it his life. He earned his qualifications as a Chef from the I.P.S.S.A.R. school of Formia. With various summer work experiences in 4-star hotels in Italy, after completing his studies Francesco and went to Rome, where he started working as a Commis at the historic hotel at the top of the Spanish Steps - Hassler Roma and a year later became Chef de Partie. The desire to learn and to grow professionally soon lead Francesco Apreda to London - Europe’s gastronomic capital and its multitude of innovative restaurants and important Chefs. For the next five years, Francesco joined the Le Gavroche - 2 Michelin stars. Later he worked under the guidance of Chef Michel Roux, at Ibla as Sous Chef and at Green Olive as Chef, both Italian restaurants recognized as “Bib Gourmants”. Roberto E. Wirth, President and Managing Director of the Hassler Roma - A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, followed the young Chef’s progress choosing to offer the 27 year old Francesco to manage the new Italian restaurant Cicerone at the Imperial Hotel of Tokyo. In Japan, Francesco learnt to appreciate the integrity and to distinguish the characteristics of each ingredient, as well as new cooking techniques. This experience also lead him to rediscover the value and flavors of Italian cuisine.
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In 2003, Francesco returned to Rome on request of Roberto Wirth, who offered him the role of Executive Chef in his illustrious hotel, in order for Francesco to give “new impulse to the kitchen.” Francesco also became responsible for the Hassler’s second restaurant, the Salone Eva, as well as all banquet, events and Room Service menus. Three years later he earned the additional responsibility of managing Il Palazzetto dining offer, a property also owned by the Hassler Roma, and located a few steps away at the side of the Spanish Steps. Returning to the Hassler as Chef was the realization of Francesco’s dream, as well as an important recognition, allowing him to capitalize on the experience he gained in England and Japan, which gave life to an innovative and creative culinary style which added value to his solid foundations in Italian cuisine.
Terrine of foie gras and endive and walnuts and coffee, black cherry bread 56
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The variety of what Francesco Apreda presents is thought for each type of palate…an explosion of flavors that include the most refined combinations as well as traditional Italian cuisine, characterized by the ingredients and fragrances embedded within Italy’s rich history and culture... 57
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Penne pasta Arrabbiata-Style, Spicy Bomb-ay Blend 58
Pink cheese cake, blend Big Apple Sour
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Fresh fruit lasagna, grape must, yoghurt ice cream and wild rocket 59
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Walking into Imàgo, Hotel Hassler panoramic restaurant, one is overtaken by the view which projects the same impact of a beautiful painting. Soft music, elegant marble floors with an antique-wooden inlay, dimmed lights reflecting off the mirrored-tables all conspire to create an impossibly romantic mood, as well as the sense of being in another time and space, overlooking the Roman skyline. Sitting down one is instantly attended to by the Maitre, who is happy to point out the names of the various monuments and cupolas on the horizon - what can we see, starting left to right is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, San Giovanni in Laterano, the Quirinale, Villa Colonna and the church of Sant’Andrea delle Fratte, the Campidoglio (Capitol Hill) and monument to Victor Emmanuel II, Palazzo Venezia, the Aventino hill, the Pantheon, the church of Sant’Agnese in Piazza Navona, Castel Sant’Angelo, the obelisk and Trinità dei Monti Church which one can almost reach out and touch, Villa Medici and the Borghese gardens.
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Imàgo is a full experience. The background music and the stunning view is complemented by the texture, aroma and, most of all, taste of Chef Francesco’s creative Italian cuisine. Francesco’s dishes are each carefully prepared and presented, and his menus vary according to the season to always offer his clients different yet refined tastes. Fifty years since the very first panoramic restaurant in Rome - the Roof Restaurant, as it was known then - opened its doors in 1956, Roberto Wirth, President and Managing Director of the Hassler Roma, inaugurated it for the second time on December 5th, 2006, after a complete restyling. With it’s new name - Imàgo, which comes from Latin “Image”, “Vision” and “Thought”. Every detail was studied to give the greatest exposure possible to the incomparable view, where each detail is reflected and magnified by the mirrored tables and wraparound windows.
Even a small window looking on to the kitchen’s pastry corner allows the eye to travel beyond to look out on to the Church of Trinità dei Monti and the Villa Borghese gardens at the other end. The restaurant not only hosts the prestigious hotel’s regular clients, but is the new restaurant in Rome for all those who wish for a unique gastronomic experience and excellent service along with the breathtaking view of the Eternal City. Imàgo, the Hassler Roma’s restaurant, satisfies the needs of an increasingly discerning and exclusive clientele by presenting contemporary renditions of traditional and refined dishes against the backdrop of the breathtaking view of the Eternal City, where sight and taste are welded to seal a unique dining experience. 62
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Singed cutlass fish and red shrimp sandwich with myrtle, baby chickpea purée and chicory-heart salad 63
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Blue Cheese Cake, macis and passion fruit sauce 64
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Together with the Hassler’s President and Managing Director, Roberto Wirth, Francesco designed Imàgo’s kitchen giving new impulse to the restaurant. Within Imàgo, the pleasure of the view is prolonged by Francesco’s cuisine, innovative dishes with his trademark, creative interpretation of Italy’s gastronomic traditions based on his research, memories, imagination and taste. Until 1956 the Roof was used an open-terrace tea room, until it was transformed into a restaurant as unique as it was beautiful, calling the greatest personalities from the 20th century to admire its view, including politicians, royalty, musicians, authors, actors and directors. John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Richard Nixon, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Federico Fellini, and Igor Stravinskji are only a few of the great names that were regular guests to delight in the gastronomic delicacies of the restaurant with the incomparable view of Rome.
Looking back on the period that has passed since Imàgo’s inauguration, Roberto Wirth is proud of the changes that were set in motion. A Michelin star, in addition to receiving the prestigious 2 Forks from the Italian restaurant guide authority - Gambero Rosso, and the 16/20 by the Guide of L’Espresso, Imàgo is included on Italy’s prestigious restaurant guides - La Repubblica, Identità Golose, Il Sole 24 ore and Touring Club.
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HÉLÈNE DARROZE - WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
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Hélène Darroze VEUVE CLICQUOT WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF 2015 In the beautiful surroundings of Hélène Darroze’s two Michelinstarred restaurant at the Connaught, her lifelong passion for the finest produce and incredible skill is reflected in every aspect of one of Mayfair’s most intimate dining experiences. Each day, Hélène selects the very best and freshest ingredients from the network of suppliers she has spent a lifetime gathering, and cooks them with precision, honesty and passion. The resulting menu celebrates the tastes and textures of the most stunning individual produce, prepared in a way that allows each ingredient to shine. At the heart of this whole experience is trust. It starts with the trust that Hélène places in her suppliers, to provide her with exceptional produce, of impeccable seasonality and provenance. And it extends to the diners, who place their trust in Hélène’s culinary skill by selecting from the simple list of exceptional ingredients available that day, to be served as a succession of impeccably realized dishes. The result is a thrilling expression of French culinary craft, delivered with a contemporary flourish, enjoyed in a truly elegant setting. India Mahdavi’s calm, sophisticated interior and a specially commissioned glasswork installation celebrating the visual beauty of the ingredients found in Hélène’s cooking complete what is a feast for the eyes and nourishment for the soul. 67
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Hélène Darroze has been named the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2015. Through this accolade The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, in partnership with Veuve Clicquot, shines a light on a rarefied family of extraordinary female chefs. The Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef award celebrates the work of a woman whose cooking most impresses the world’s toughest critics and most venerated chefs, more than 900 of whom voted in this category. Darroze responds to the news of her win by saying: “As much as the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef is an accolade for me, it is also an accolade for my team at the Connaught in London and Hélène Darroze in Paris. I am honoured to win the award because there are talented female chefs all over the world and I imagine choosing only one is challenging. I think it is important to celebrate women and their achievements. My hope is that the recipients of this award inspire young women, including my daughters, to follow their passion and work hard to hone their skill regardless of profession. I greatly admire all of the previous winners of this prestigious award and I am thrilled to now be in their company.” French-born Hélène Darroze is a fourth generation chef who, after completing a degree from l’Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Bordeaux, joined Alain Ducasse’s team at the prestigious Louis XV restaurant in Monaco. After three years under his tutelage both in business and in the kitchen, she returned home to the family restaurant, Chez Darroze, in Villeneuve-de-Marsan in the Landes region. There, in 1995, Darroze’s father gave her the keys to the kitchen, where she spent the next four years refining her culinary style and honing her skills. 69
HÉLÈNE DARROZE - WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
thrilling expression of French culinary...
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HÉLÈNE DARROZE - WORLD’S BEST FEMALE CHEF
At the age of 32, Darroze closed the family restaurant and set her sights on Paris, opening her eponymous restaurant on the Left Bank to critical acclaim and widespread commendation. Darroze’s talent and heartfelt contemporary French cuisine caught the attention of the Connaught, leading to the opening of Hélène Darroze at the Connaught in 2008. Seven years on, Darroze remains head chef at Hélène Darroze at the Connaught and her namesake restaurant in Paris. She travels regularly between Paris and London with her two children, Charlotte and Quiterie, overseeing all aspects of her businesses. An integral and common thread in Darroze’s restaurants is not just her impeccable gastronomic expertise but the seasonal, authentic ingredients that take precedence in her contemporary French recipes. Darroze has spent a lifetime gathering her network of loyal suppliers, allowing her the freedom to create stunning seasonal dishes using the freshest, highest-quality produce the market has to offer. One of Darroze’s signature dishes - squid ink risotto with sautéed squid and chorizo, confit tomatoes and parmesan foam - exemplifies her cooking: it is simultaneously complex and modest, but also impeccably balanced. As well as being named the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef 2015, Darroze’s other accolades include admittance into the French Legion of Honour as a Chevalier by President Nicolas Sarkozy in 2012. Darroze’s likeable and even-handed personality inspired the character, Chef Colette, in the 2007 Pixar Animation Studios’ hit Ratatouille. She is also a judge on France’s Top Chef 2015. Through this accolade The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, in partnership with Veuve Clicquot, shines a light on a rarefied family of extraordinary female chefs. The Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef award celebrates the work of a woman whose cooking most impresses the world’s toughest critics and most venerated chefs, more than 900 of whom voted in this category. As a winner of the Veuve Clicquot World’s Best Female Chef award, Hélène Darroze joins a group of exceptionally talented chefs including luminaries, Elena Arzak of Spain’s Arzak, Anne-Sophie Pic of Maison Pic in France, Nadia Santini of Dal Pescatore in the Italian countryside and last year’s winner, Helena Rizzo of Brazilian restaurant Mani. 72
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CLARIDGE’S - LONDON
CLARIDGE’S Iconic Hotel
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CLARIDGE’S - MAYFAIR
Iconic Hotel Iconic Designer
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Diane Von Furstenberg Guestrooms & Suites Claridge’s, one of the world’s most famous and glamorous hotels, has collaborated with legendary fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg to bring her signature style to a series of guestrooms and suites. For more than a century, Claridge’s has been considered the Art Deco jewel of Mayfair which stands as an emblem of timeless elegance in London. “Claridge’s is the most glamorous hotel in the world,” says von Furstenberg, “hotels like this don’t exist anymore and the legacy must be respected! It is very important to keep the original architecture and the formality of the layout of the rooms in order to preserve the old style of grand hotel life that I love so much. It has been a true privilege to design new furniture, fabrics and rugs to keep it relevant for today’s needs and taste.” One of the world’s most celebrated designers, Diane exemplifies the modern global nomad, traveling the world for inspiration and drawing upon her own experiences in her designs. Travel is her muse and in 2008 von Furstenberg’s first cruise collection drew inspiration from Claridge’s, the hotel that has been her home away from home in London since the 1970’s.
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DIANE von FURSTENBERG, one of the premier names in American fashion. Renowned for its iconic wrap dress and its signature prints, DVF is a global luxury lifestyle brand “Our collaboration with the talented Diane von Furstenberg is the latest storyline within our history of forward thinking design,” commented Stephen Alden, CEO Maybourne Hotel Group. “Diane’s personal love and passion for Claridge’s provides a unique perspective which she has drawn upon in executing her creative vision.” The hotel’s legendary Piano Suite was designed in collaboration with longtime friend and interior decorator Olivier Gelbsmann. Each guestroom boasts its own DVF style whilst preserving the Art Deco heritage of Claridge’s. Beautiful contemporary prints, Chinese florals in big, bold scale and animal patterns are just a few of the styles presented in the chic, inspiring spaces. Each bedroom has a Diane von Furstenberg custom designed cashmere blanket in sumptuous colour combinations. Four star pieces including a dressing table, travelling trunk, desk and cocktail bar, all inspired by Diane von Furstenberg’s travels and the mobility of campaign furniture, were created for some of Claridge’s guestrooms and suites. The dressing table recalls trips to Italy, the traveling trunk evokes images of caravans and stylish steamer trunks, while the cocktail bar resembles jewellery boxes found in the Middle East. Each room will also feature furniture handmade by British craftsmen and light fixtures that have been created in the UK and Paris using Murano glass. The rooms also display photographs taken by Diane von Furstenberg on her travels through Europe, Asia, Africa and the Middle East. 78
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At the centre of London’s Mayfair, Claridge’s, part of Maybourne Hotel Group, embodies grand English style, timeless glamour and impeccable, intuitive and highly tailored service. It is London’s art deco jewel, and home to breath-taking rooms and suites. The window dressings, inset wall coverings and upholstery, feature DVF’s exclusive textile collection are available to interior designers and consumers. Cotton canvas fabrics range from a black and white ikat print to a bold wide stripe. The contemporary selection of fabric combined with the elegance of Claridge’s sets the contemporary yet refined tone of the rooms. The Piano Suite’s bedroom is a light and dreamy compliment to the bold living room, featuring a pale thistle and off-white design scheme and a bleached solid oak four-poster bed. All glasswork found throughout the suite will be Murano and boxes and trays have been specifically hand-crafted in Bali. The floor coverings utilize Diane von Furstenberg’s handcrafted rugs from The Rug Company, a long time design partner. The handmade, luxurious wool and silk rugs feature signature modern animal patterns in dark chocolate brown and ivory, and are inlaid within the suite’s hardwood flooring. Since opening its doors in 1898, Claridge’s has been the destination of choice for discerning travelers. Diane von Furstenberg’s guestrooms and suites will compliment the bespoke design legacy of Claridge’s while celebrating the glorious future of the Art Deco jewel. Home to the legendary Claridge’s Bar and Fumoir, Claridge’s has played host to royalty, celebrities and heads of state who desire timeless elegance at London’s best address.
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RAMBAGH PALACE - JAIPUR
RAMBAGH PALACE JAIPUR Taste Of Royal Living 82
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From the home of the queen’s favourite handmaiden, to royal guesthouse and hunting lodge, and later as the residence of the Maharaja, this ‘Jewel of Jaipur’ has stepped gracefully through many royal transitions. The finest traditions of Rajput hospitality pour out of its every brick and cornice. Its elegant rooms, marbled corridors and majestic gardens echo with history, and every corner has a story to tell. Rambagh Palace is a living legend in Jaipur. Built in 1835 on a modest scale for the queen’s favourite handmaiden Kesar Badaran, and later refurbished as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge, the mansion was renamed Rambagh, after the then reigning Maharaja Sawai Ram Singh II. Sawai Man Singh II later went to England to finish his studies. While at the Royal Military Academy at Woolwich in England, he often dreamt of making Rambagh his official residence. On his return he began actualizing his dream by converting Rambagh into the magnificent palace it is today, drawing inspiration from Mughal and Rajasthani styles of architecture. His majestic expansions transformed the palace into its glory of today. In 1925, Rambagh Palace became the permanent residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. The pride of the palace was the sprawling garden that featured in Peter Coat’s ‘Most Beautiful Gardens of the World’. 85
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Palace Lobby
In 1931, the Imperial Government conferred upon the maharaja his full powers. After two heirless generations, the maharaja’s two wives sent the kingdom into ecstasy when they gave birth to two sons and a daughter between them. After becoming the toast of English high society with his good looks, charm, wealth, polo prowess and beautiful family, the charismatic maharaja returned to India in 1933 and took up residence with his family in Rambagh. The palace was transformed into a beehive of fun, life laughter and vibrant activity. All presided over by Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II and run smoothly by his right hand men. “The thirties were undoubtedly the glorious, golden years of Rambagh”, reminisces Rajmata Gayatri Devi, the Mahara’s ethereal wife, named the most beautiful woman in the world by Vogue magazine in 1940. As the war loomed and many officers were called away on duty, she took over the running of the household. With her gracious hospitality, she entertained Viceroys, Lords, Ladies, polo players, officers and artists. In 1947, India declared her independence, the princely states were merged with the Union of India and the Maharaja of Jaipur was appointed the Rajpramukh of the state of Rajasthan. Rambagh Palace became the Raj Bhavan or Government House. The fact that he was no longer the ruler stopped nobody from celebrating with great gusto. The palace was flooded with visiting dignitaries, including the Mountbattens and fourteen maharajas and their families. The last of the India’s princely celebrations was held when the only daughter of the family wedded the heir-apparent of Baria. The two-week extravaganza still stands in the Guinness Book of Records today as the world’s most expensive wedding. But the grand Rambagh Palace still had more celebrating to do. Rambagh remained the home of Jaipur’s Royalty until 1957, when it was first converted into an upscale hotel that they continued to manage. In 1972, with its legacy of hospitality, Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces was the perfect choice to carry on the royal tradition of the luxurious Rambagh Palace. Over the years Rambagh has played gracious host to several illustrious guests, such as Lord Louis Mountbatten, Prince Charles, Jacqueline Kennedy and many other luminaries. 86
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Rajput Room 87
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Sukh Niwas Bedroom 88
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Sukh Niwas Living Area
In the finest tradition of Rajput hospitality, the Rambagh Palace offers its guests a taste of royal living - a luxury and extravagance that was once the sole preserve of kings. It’s elegantly appointed rooms, marbled corridors and majestic gardens echo with history. We invite you to take advantage of everything the Rambagh Palace has to offer. 79 rooms and stunningly restored suites, which were the chambers of the former Maharaja. Use of rich fabrics and silk drapes draw from the colourful art and warm hues of the state of Rajasthan. It’s rich texture, opulent furnishings, exquisite objects d’art, ornamental gardens arranged in brilliant symmetry exudes an unmistakable sense of history. It’s an architectural masterpiece that transcends time. The legendary Peacock suite overlooks the Mughal Terrace and the garden of the Palace is where the Maharaja used to celebrate Holi - the festival of color and lights. Guests can stage an evening of high romance in a private tent, illuminated only by torchlight or indulge in a stately dining at the gilded Suvarna Mahal. Rambagh Palace allows guest to partake of a wealth of experiences that resound with the memories, luxuries and extravagances of a bygone era that luckily, has not entirely disappeared. Testimony to the fusion décor of contemporary design with royal flourishes, the Sukh Niwas Suite’s arched stonework, rich textured drapes and fabrics, crystal chandeliers, gold leaf frescoes, opulent furniture and embellishments create an ambiance of sheer luxury and decadence. Large windows open to the picturesque royal gardens. The Suryavanshi Suite’s high ceilings and exquisite chandeliers complement the green Udaipur stone arches and rich period furniture. Arched French windows opens out onto the resplendent Mughal gardens, the magnificent Nahargarh Fort and the breathtaking Aravali hills, transporting the guest into the princely era. 89
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Historical Suite
The Maharaja had got this suite specially redecorated by his favorite designer Hammond’s of London as a surprise gift to Maharani Gayatri Devi. This suite flaunts a very different look with delicate finishes textured wood panels, intricate mirror-and-stone work, rich furnishings, and hand painted Rajasthani art. The palatial French windows open to a fabulous vision of the serene Oriental Garden & Panghat. Some of the Royal Suites have been the personal chambers of the Maharaja of Jaipur. The beautiful architecture and opulent décor with embellishes such as Rajasthani motif, delicate mirror-and-stone work, intricately carved pillars with marbles inlay, rich silks and tall draped curtains create a magical experience. The palace gardens are a haven for some of the land’s most beautiful birds. The star, of course, being possibly the world’s most beautiful bird - the majestic peacock. A stroll through the five gardens is bound to find you within sight of these glorious birds, strutting proudly about and justifying every one of the myriad poems penned, lyrics sung and canvases painted to celebrate their beauty. It isn’t just the peacock that flaps its wings here, though. Wagtails, babblers, mynahs, pariah kites, tailorbirds and red-vented bulbuls are just a few of the migrants and residents that fill the gardens with their chirps and songs. As the symphony of the birds fills your head and empties it of every care, and the gentle breeze accompanies you on your walk, it’s easy to see why the ladies of the zenana escaped to these gardens to get away from the proceedings of the palace. 90
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Grand Presidential Suite - Suryavanshi Suite 91
THE APARTMENT AT THE CONNAUGHT, MAYFAIR
The Apartment
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niquely carved entrance doors, as seen at many stately Mayfair homes, set the tone for a one of a kind residence at the Apartment on the top floor of the hotel, perched high above Carlos Place. Welcoming cosmopolitan travellers with an eclectic taste in art, culture and literature into a private collector’s home, the David Collins Studio designed space features an array of specifically commissioned artworks and limited edition books. The unveiling of The Apartment marked an important milestone in the £70million restoration of The Connaught, taking the landmark hotel into the 21st century while preserving its authentic elegance and distinct personality. The understated palette of heathery blues, rich lavenders and ocean greys is elevated by metallic accents, silk curtains and hand-crafted, artisan elements. From lilac leather lined cabinetry in the dressing room and a bespoke card table, upholstered in navy leather with antiqued brass detailing, to a richly veined custom designed white marble fireplace, The Apartment feels like the home of an urbane, cultured connoisseur. The entrance corridor has been treated as an extension of the living space with a library including an interesting collection of twentieth century novels, unusual art history books and some rare volumes. The Apartment features carefully selected antique and contemporary decorative artworks including ceramic vessels, inspirational architectural black and white photography, and bespoke framed modern textiles sourced from craftsmen and artists all over the world. The Apartment encompasses a stately, double height sitting-room, crowned by an artisan plaster chandelier by the well-respected sculptor Philippe Anthonioz, reminiscent of that in the Musee Picasso, Paris. The adjacent dining room is created with an exclusive, intimate
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dinner party in mind with walls adorned with specially commissioned art work, giving it the residential touch of a world-traveller’s home. The world-famous Connaught butlers are on hand to arrange a private dinner party, with menus specially designed by Michelin star chef Hélène Darroze. Two landscaped decked terraces created by award winning garden designer Tom Stuart-Smith have far reaching views over the rooftops of Mayfair. The masterbedroom, with a four poster bed and delicate silk draping, opens up to a luxurious dressing room, boasting pale lilac leather lined wardrobes and an elegant dressing table designed by David Collins Studio. A white and grey marble bathroom with stand-alone bathtub and double shower completes the experience for discerning guests. There is an equally beautiful guest bedroom with en suite marble bathroom. “The Connaught is more than a hotel, it is a home, a familiar refuge, and I intended to create an iconic, unique home from home, eschewing the word penthouse. The Apartment is created for a discerning client: well-travelled, informed and with an appreciation of design and the art of living. It is a private place for a chosen few and a very personal design statement,” said the late interior designer David Collins. With the transformation of Mount Street into one of the world’s most avant-garde retail destinations, The Connaught has established a unique relationship with many of the neighbouring designer shops and can arrange for Lanvin silk dresses, Balenciaga suede jackets and Christian Louboutin satin heels to be placed in the dressing room prior to arrival as a couture dressing service.
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TAJ LAKE PALACE UDAIPUR
TAJ LAKE PALACE UDAIPUR Most Romantic Hotel In The World 94
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Glowing moonlight. Gentle lakeside breezes. A whole entourage courtesans. What young prince could resist? Certainly not Maharana Jagat Singh II. Legend has it that the young prince indulged in moonlight picnics with the ladies of the Zenana on the lake island palace of Jag Mandir. A pleasurable pastime - until his father found out. With that option closed to him, there was only one solution. He built his own pleasure palace on a different island in Lake Pichola. Begun in 1743 and inaugurated in 1746, the new palace was named Jag Niwas after his highness Maharana Jagat Singh II, 62nd successor to the royal dynasty of Mewar that traces it lineage to the Sun God. The palace witnessed additions of apartments and embellishments by successive rulers. These myriad elements that interestingly reflect the artistic inclinations of each ruler and prevailing fashions, infuse the palace with delights at every turn and seamlessly meld together to create a fascinating, richly textured architectural fabric. Jag Niwas, now Taj Lake Palace, is one of 4 lovely islands in Lake Pichola with each island has a story to tell. Mohan Mandir is the place from where the king would watch the annual Gangaur festival celebration. Arsivilas used to be an ammunition depot and later was used as a helipad by the royal family. And of course, Jag Mandir is the location for the original pleasure palace of Maharana Jagat Singh II. The Royal Dynasty of Mewar had palaces to spare. In addition to Taj Lake Place there was the City Palace, which used to be the official residential palace during winters, the hill top Monsoon Palace also known as Sajjan Garh, and the aforementioned Jag Mandir. 96
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Chandra Prakash Suite 98
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Chandra Prakash Suite
What may have begun as a prince’s rebellious gesture was turned into one of the most romantic hotels in the world by Maharana Bhagwat Singh in 1963. Then in 1971, Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces was the perfect choice to carry on the royal tradition of the luxurious Lake Palace, Udaipur. Since then the Taj has spared no efforts in offering guests the finest experience of royal India. After extensive research in local history, architecture and crafts, the interiors were refurbished, rooms added and amenities enhanced while also taking care to preserve the glorious heritage of the palace. From the moment you are greeted at the airport or dock, you step into a world where needs are met before desire has even been realized. Greeted with rose petals shower, traditional welcome and refreshments and then introduced to the marvelously intricate world that is Taj Lake Palace. Anything is possible here. You have only To ask. That is if your Royal Butler has not already anticipated it. The Vintage coupé glides to a stop at the lake’s edge. It’s hard to believe the floating vision in marble is real and magically floats in the middle of the stunning Lake Pichola. Blink, and indeed, there is a luminous palace emerging from the mist. Suddenly you are in a boat, drifting ever closer and the reality doesn’t disappoint. With the Aravalli Mountains and city palaces as a backdrop one gets an impending sense of enchantment. Accommodations at Taj Lake Palace is as delightful as the exterior. Every one of the rooms holds a story and among the most compelling is The Chandra Prakash Suite, meaning Lustre of the Moon, glows like a celestial orb with golden-yellow chandeliers and lamps softly lighting the decorative gilt moldings, and sinuously sculpted marble columns, and fine fretwork screens impressed even the Maharaja who held court in this very room in the 1930s. 99
TAJ LAKE PALACE UDAIPUR
Sarva Ritu Suite
The Sarva Ritu or the All Seasons Suite is a seamless blend of royal living and contemporary luxury. The interiors are embellished with charming beds, decorative wooden headboards, rich furnishings, a brilliant Waterford chandelier and engravings. Closing the corner chattri, which was once a partly open pavilion, has enhanced the beauty of this suite. The Kamal Mahal or Lotus Palace alludes to the beauty of the flower, traditionally regarded as a symbol of purity in India. The pristine beauty of the suite, with its select artefacts, paintings, furniture and carpets, conveys a warm and welcoming ambience. A Pichwais, a revered, hand-painted cloth traditionally crafted in Nathdwara, for display behind idols, adds beauty to the suite. The Sajjan Niwas suite, built by Maharana Sajjan Singh retains an old world charm in its lamps, portraits, glass mosaics, traditional cloth fans, inlaid doors and intricate furniture. The bedroom of the suite, decorated with frescoes depicting the Hindu deity Krishna, is suffused with romance. The Sajjan Niwas Suite Terrace opens onto the lake with spectacular views of Jagmandir Island and Aravallis.Intimate dinners and private parties easily suggest themselves for this idyllic venue. The Grand Royal Suites are the epitome of royal grandeur and offer guests a taste of the finest traditions and lifestyles of the princely kingdom of Udaipur. The resplendent Grand Royal Suites are the part of the original design of the palace and their decadence is legendary. 100
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Kamal Mahal
Grand Royal Suite 101
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Jag Mandir Darshan Suite
Sajjan Niwas Suite - Living Area 102
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Luxury Room
The Shambhu Prakash suite is named after the Maharana Shambhu Singh, known for his progressive reforms and welfare measures in the 1860’s. The suite, furnished in impressive, opulent strokes of colour graced with high curved arches, exudes A mix of both Rajasthani and European grandeur. In the tradition of the city’s finest heritage hotel, Shambhu Prakash exceeds the expectations of its guests. The Suite’s style cleverly melds a variety of themes reflecting Mewar’s diverse history of ethnic cultures. The suite opens to a comfortable and elegantly appointed library stocked with select literary works and handpicked artefacts. An adjoining balcony offers views of what is arguably the best lake view sunset in the world. Known as the Venice of East, the city of Udaipur with its fairytale palaces, placid lakes, exotic temples and resplendent gardens has a lot to offer, countless unique experiences to be had. Sail into a purple sunset on a 150-year old imperial barge of the house of Mewar glides across the mystical Lake Pichola illuminated Gangaur complete with candlelight and resplendently dressed oarsmen resplendent costumes. Dressed for the occasion, the barge awaits your engaging presence. If the boat looks familiar, perhaps you’ve seen it in the James Bond classic “Octopussy”, which was filmed on location at the hotel in 1983. Indulge in a heritage walk with an escort to guide you through the palace, bringing you an insider’s perspective on this enduring symbol of elegance and romance. Soak in the sounds and sights of the city as your royal butler accompanies you on a shopping trip. In this royal dream, anything is possible.
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THE BERKELEY HEALTH CLUB & SPA - BERKELEY, LONDON
Bamford Haybarn at The BERKELEY Health Club And Spa
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Bringing the essence of the English countryside to the heart of the city, the Bamford Haybarn at the Berkeley is located on the 7th floor of the hotel where guests and members can enjoy stunning views over Hyde Park and Knightsbridge. Designed by internationally acclaimed architect Spencer Fung, the Bamford Haybarn is a welcoming sanctuary committed to caring for the mind and body – delicately decorated with calming greys and whites. Offering a relaxing day retreat and a holistic approach to well-being, the Bamford Haybarn provides an environment of calm and tranquility. The unique rooftop pool allows for both indoor and outdoor swimming with its retractable roof for the summer months where guests can bask in the sun whilst enjoying a new spa menu featuring the finest British ingredients, combining the perfect balance between healthy and gourmet with the option of an accompanying glass of poolside bubbles! Additionally, a secret garden and state of the art gym with panoramic city skyline views make the Berkeley Health Club and Spa one of London’s most exclusive and seductive havens. Emphasising its connection with nature, Bamford Haybarn at the Berkeley is a nourishing space for self-reflection and rejuvenation with therapeutic treatments and massages to balance the mind and body. Treatments use the Bamford Body Collection, created with naturally sourced and organic ingredients certified by the soil association. At the heart of its offer will be the 85-minute Bamford Body Signature Treatment combining shiatsu, meridian and Swedish massage, reflexology and yogic breathing to revitalize the whole body. A new massage created exclusively for the Berkeley, uses hot and cold jade stones for a profoundly relaxing experience. The Bamford Haybarn is also partnered with natural British skincare experts, OSKIA, to create facials that nourish the skin with naturally-derived ingredients, leaving it healthy and radiant. OSKIA’s 75-minute Signature Facial uses specialized facial massage techniques and acupressure to illuminate the complexion.
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THE WORLD OF LUXURY SPAS - ELEMIS SPA, CONNECTICUT
A New Renaissance in the World of Luxury Spas The Face of Hospitality By Mario Bermeo, Jr.
The world of Luxury Spas is a very rigid and demanding one, but for George Aziz and his amazing team of artists, it has become something like no other. After 12 years in the hospitality business in New York City, Mr. Aziz has taken on a new challenge at Elemis Spa located in Connecticut’s Mohegan Sun Casino. A challenge and an adventure as he said himself that he has gladly taken on. February 2015 marked his 3rd year as Operations Manager at Elemis Spa and he could not be happier. I had the privilege of sitting down to speak with Mr. Aziz about his latest venture and how these past few years have treated him. While speaking of his daily work day and his employees, he never once referred to them as “workers,” but a word not usually heard in this environment - artists. As Mr. Aziz said, “they are not just stylists, they are artists.” It was right then and there that I realized that this is not just work for him, this is his passion and a workshop for his artists to let their creative enthusiasm flow to the clear benefit of their clientele. This is the new face of Luxury Spas.
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With 23,000 square feet, a wide variety of cutting-edge treatments facilitated by massage therapists, aestheticians, hair stylist and nail technicians, and a staff of 70, his hands are full, but attention to detail is ever-present in his vocabulary, as he describes a day at the Elemis Spa. His goal is quite elegant and inspired - to make sure each and every guest experiences this new world through all of their senses. He began with describing the moment you walk through the doors. “The smell of rosemary leads your mind to a new path, perhaps a path to relaxation, or even one that transforms you to a memorable moment in your life - a moment that lets you relax and fall in complete harmony with the present.” You are greeted with a smile from a most pleasant concierge that begins your journey to a timeless experience where you “await to be renovated,” Mr. Aziz describes. “From the moment you walk in, your mind, body and sense
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of time stays behind, and the journey to find yourself once again begins. Your senses are the first to be transformed and to slowly find a new level of appreciation for the simplicity and yet complex world that is the Luxury Spa.” While we kept talking, it became more and more apparent just how important this world is for he and for his clients. Whether you are a guest at the hotel, or just coming onsite to transform your mind, body and soul, everyone gets the same level of attention and care. Mr. Aziz used a great metaphorical story to exemplify what he wishes his clients receive from their experience at Elemis Spa. His example was a working class woman: “When a woman leaves her house, she does her hair and gets dressed, but along with her clothes, she kind of slips on an invisible cloak - a cloak to protect her from the outside.” This cloak as Mr. Aziz mentioned, is something she uses to face the world. It encompasses the confidence, pride, or courage we all use to deal with daily life. When this woman arrives at Elemis Spa, Mr. Aziz says, “We want her to leave that cloak at the door - to forget that she needs something to protect her as this is a haven where one can let down their guard. Our goal is that at the end of the day “we want her to leave not only content, but to not need that cloak anymore.” This metaphorical story truly articulated his commitment to the client, and in this day and age, where life has become so hectic, it’s great to see that there is a place where we can all hang our cloaks and forget about them for the rest of the day. To achieve this perfect and well synchronized experience, Mr. Aziz puts any potential candidate for a position at Elemis Spa through various trials and test runs. “Our clients are our canvases. I have to make sure I have the right artist to take on that canvas, as well give them all of the necessary tools they need.” As we kept on with our conversation, we touched base on his one-on-one experiences with his artists, concierges and clients. He mentioned that his office is open to anyone, while describing it as a somewhat childlike sanctuary where you may find a jar of Jolly Ranchers on his desk, Lavender scented slippers, a Teddy bear and of course a fridge filled with spring water - a place where anyone can walk in to talk about anything. I described him as a “Spa Psychologist” for not only his people, but for his clients as well - he stopped to think about it, and with a small laugh, gently agreed. As we concluded our conversation, it was clearly evident that this man is extraordinarily committed. His passion for “an adventure like no other” as he said himself, is clearly what drives him. Once there was Leonardo, Michelangelo, Picasso and Frida, and all of these artists, besides their various talents and accolades, had someone that believed in them. Today, in the world of Luxury Spas, there is a family of underrated artists who I believe, have finally found someone who believes in them - this in my opinion is George Aziz. 107
THE OBEROI SPA - OBEROI RAJVILAS, JAIPUR
The Oberoi Spa
housed in a 280 year old mansion
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The Oberoi Spa at The Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur is a luxurious haven of peace and tranquillity. Housed in a restored 280 years old Rajasthani Haveli (mansion) the spa offers the ideal setting to experience holistic treatments. Furnished elegantly with hand block printed linen, polished wood floor and beautiful hand-painted frescoes, the ambience of the spa is inviting and soothing. Incense sticks and aromatic oils permeate the air with a gentle fragrance creating the perfect ambience for relaxation. The serenity of the space calms the senses in preparation for the varied beauty and rejuvenating treatments performed by hand-picked therapists. The facilities at the Oberoi Spa include steam rooms, plunge pools and an outdoor Jacuzzi. The Spa includes four Private therapy suites, four single therapy rooms, a facial room, plunge pools and separate changing areas for men and women. The therapy suites, complete with en suite steam rooms, washrooms and large bathtubs, are ideal for couples, who would like to share their experience. The extensive spa menu offers non-clinical therapies, massages and beauty treatments incorporating ancient Ayurvedic principles, Aromatherapy and Western techniques that are designed to rejuvenate, relax and pamper. The treatments at the Oberoi Spa include only the finest natural ingredients remaining true to the Asian tradition of respect for the environment. The menu features massages, exotic body scrubs, floral baths and rejuvenating beauty treatments. The Spa also offers a range of facials and body beautification treatments. Manicures include a relaxing hand massage while the facial includes cranial massage. Foot reflexology will help restore sore muscles and the hair salon offers deep moisturizing cream baths in addition to regular hair care and grooming.
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MARIO BATALI - LUPA, HONG KONG
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Mario Batali
New York Celebrity Chef Critically acclaimed chef, restaurateur, award-winning author and television personality, Mario Batali is one of the most recognized and respected chefs working in America today. With his business partner Joe Bastianich, Mario has created an uber-successful restaurant and culinary empire in New York, Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Singapore and now their initial foray into Hong Kong with the opening of LUPA. Celebrated for their excellence in Italian Cuisine and hospitality, Mario and Joe introduce to the restaurant landscape and diners in Central, Hong Kong, and a sensational level of Italian dining. Located at the LHT Tower in Central, LUPA provides superb Italian dining in exquisite surroundings. With over 5,500 square feet of spacious dining for 130 guests indoors, LUPA also features a 2,500 square foot terrace that can accommodate an additional 80 guests for al fresco dining, making a total guest capacity of 210.
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MARIO BATALI - LUPA, HONG KONG
Leading the kitchen team at LUPA is Executive Chef Giuseppe Ferreri, born and raised Roman with a career in Italian cuisine. Trained at the celebrated Gambero Rosso Culinary School in Rome, Giuseppe then embarked on his career with a learning adventure travelling Italy gathering a greater knowledge of the regions and their cuisine styles and working with some of Italy’s most renowned chefs - Igles Corelli at Locanda Della Tamerice, Grazia Soncini at La Capanna and Bruno Barbieri at Arquade in Verona. With this wealth of knowledge and experience supported by a lifetime immersed in Italian cuisine and wines, Giuseppe brings to LUPA an authentic experience in classic Italian cooking and cuisine – certain to delight Hong Kong diners’ passion for all things Italian. 112
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Head Chef Giuseppe Ferreri 113
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Abbacchio Scottadito - New Zealand Lamb Chops with SautĂŠed Artichokes, Egg and Tarragon Sauce 114
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Raised in Seattle, Mario took his first bite of culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu in London but withdrew almost immediately due to a “lack of interest”. An apprenticeship with London’s legendary chef Marco Pierre White and three years of intensive training in the Northern Italy village of Borgo Capanne in Emilia Romagna gave him the essential skills and knowledge to return to his native U.S., eager to plant his orange-clogged foot firmly onto the New York restaurant scene. Mario, together with Giuseppe, showcase their culinary skills with their sophisticated interpretation on such LUPA New York Classics as Octopus Carpaccio with Caramelized Cherry Tomato, Orange Zest and Lemon Dressing; Ricotta Fritters with Wild Mixed Mushrooms and Black Truffle; House Made Tagliatelle with Bolognese Ragu, Green Peas and Prosciutto; Braised Pork Shoulder with Fennel Salad, Taggiasche Olives and Roasted Orange.
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Margherita - Tomato, Buffalo Mozzarella, Basil 116
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LUPA’s menu is complemented by an exceptional collection of handpicked Italian wines from Mario and Joe’s personal catalogue representing all regions of Italy and many boutique wineries. The wine list includes more than 40 wines by the glass as well as a unique selection of grappas and Italian liqueurs. Chef Mario Batali and Chef Giuseppe’s uniquelystyled Italian cuisine, matched with the extraordinary interior design, a stylish al Fresco terrace and an urban chic ambience, make LUPA the ideal solution for intimate dining, corporate dinners, private events and cocktail functions in the heart of Central. Batali has appeared in scores of publications, including a cover story in Gourmet Magazine, an award-winning profile in The New Yorker, and a feature in Time Magazine. Mario has made several appearances on national television, including The Oprah Winfrey Show, ABC Nightline, Good Morning America, TODAY, and The Daily Show with Jon Stewart and Late Night with Jimmy Fallon to name just a few. Batali currently stars on ABC’s new daytime hit show, The Chew. He splits his time between New York City and northern Michigan with his wife and their two sons.
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CHEF ERIC FRECHON - EPICURE, LE BRISTOL, PARIS
Chef Eric Frechon French Haute-Couture Gastronomy After presiding over some of Paris’s most prestigious kitchens, Chef Eric Frechon joined the great Le Bristol Paris - A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, family in 1998. A celebrated name in gastronomy, unanimously hailed by critics and gourmets the world over, Frechon raised Le Bristol to a temple of gastronomy, winning a third Michelin star in 2009. Affectionately known as Chef Frechon, he is currently overseeing all fine dining at Le Bristol Paris which includes the three-star Epicure; the brasserie 114 Faubourg, which earned its first Michelin star in 2013; Le Jardin Français, a privileged meeting place that attracts personalities from the worlds of arts, politics, fashion and business. Born in the Somme, near Amiens, Eric Frechon was three years old when his family settled in the small seaside resort of Tréport, Normandy, this is where his first culinary memories have the sweet scent of his mother’s apple pies and the softness of her crèmes aux oeufs. It was through his father, a fruit and vegetable merchant, and his grandfather, Raoul Frechon, a farmer, that the young man was schooled in quality products from an early age. Chicken came from the farm next door and fresh fish right off the boat. For years, Frechon spent his holidays between the vegetable garden and his grandfather’s farm driving the tractor or making bread. But it was a bicycle that first led him to step into a restaurant kitchen. The future chef of Le Bristol Paris was 13 and wanted to buy a bicycle, Frechon found work in one of Tréport’s restaurants. To raise the required amount for his bicycle, he spent his weekends shucking oysters, waiting tables and helping with pastry making. Whether or not it was the discovery of îles flottantes that inspired his passion, it was in that kitchen that the young Frechon determined that cooking was his calling. At 15, Frechon enrolled in the Ecole Hôtelière de Rouen, graduating after two years Frechon landed his first job as a junior cook at La Grande Cascade in Bois de Boulogne and arrived in Paris alone with a suitcase. The metro, monuments, Parisian nights, threestar restaurants, everything filled him with wonder. 118
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Poularde de Bresse cuite en vessie 120
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If, years later, every guest can still remember one of my dishes, my goal has been achieved...
Frechon worked at La Grande Cascade for more than a year, learning from Chef Jean Sabine, who introduced him to the great traditional cuisine. It was at this time that Frechon began to dream of working at Le Bristol. The great hotel’s restaurant was then helmed by Chef Emile Tabourdiau, renowned for his original and innovative cuisine. Frechon spent his first two years at Le Bristol learning about banquets and the requirements of room service. The experience was interrupted by compulsory military service. Frechon was assigned to the sommelier of the Centre National des Armées de Saint-Augustin, where he discovered the fascinating world of wine. A passion that has never left him. The City of Light prevailed, and in 1988 Frechon joined Manuel Martinez’s Tour d’Argent. But not for long. After his Andalusian odyssey, Frechon found that he was no longer content to prepare the same signature dishes day after day. Aware that Frechon longed for a means of expression, Martinez sent him to Christian Constant, who had just been appointed head of the Crillon kitchens. Here began seven years of bliss, Frechon identified with this elegant cuisine that revisited, refined and enhanced regional products. Frechon adds ‘More than just cooking, Monsieur Constant imparted to me the spirit of cooking.’ A little shy, the young Norman flourished under the tutelage of this chef from France’s southwest, who encouraged his protégés to express themselves. After much resistance, Constant managed to persuade Frechon to prepare for the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman of France) competition. ‘Meilleur Constant had tried twice without success. To see me win the famous tricolor collar in 1993 was his revenge,’ smiles Frechon. Two years later, he set off on his own. 121
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TIMELESS, UNFORGETTABLE CUISINE “Fashions come and go, but traditional craftsmanship and authenticity are timeless. I have never adapted my cooking to the whims of the moment or even to my guests.” Returning to civilian life in 1984, Frechon applied for work at Taillevent, the temple of classic French gastronomy. Employed as a junior cook, he quickly rose to the position of chef de partie. Despite this first success in a three-star restaurant, Frechon yearned to travel and discover new horizons. The cuisine of the sunny south appealed to this Normandy native, and it just so happened that a friend was leaving for Spain to become head of restaurants at the new Byblos Andaluz hotel near Malaga. The opportunity to discover Mediterranean food was irresistible. Frechon started out as pastry chef and quickly rose to second in command. The adventure was as exciting as it was exhausting. In this brand new hotel he did everything: manage two restaurants, French and Andalusian, ‘We didn’t take a single day off in two years, but it was incredibly rewarding,’ recalls Frechon, who was faced with a fundamental decision - continue his career abroad or return to a great Paris restaurant. La Verrière, an out-of-the-way bistro close to the Buttes Chaumont, was his first solo endeavor. With the help of three junior chefs, Frechon focused on playful dishes (veal sweetbreads with anchovies) and his childhood favorites (exquis millefeuille with Tahiti vanilla). Success was immediate and the business thrived. Yet, ever in pursuit of excellence, Frechon was missing haute cuisine. Michel Del Burgo, chef at Le Bristol was having breakfast at La Verrière, Frechon remarked casually, ‘You work in the most beautiful hotel in Paris. If a position were to open, I would accept within the hour.’ Michel de Burgo did not forget and before leaving Le Bristol, he proposed the name of Eric Frechon. An offer was quickly made and the mythical palace gave him a week to think it over, in three days Frechon accepted the offer. 122
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St Jacques Topinambour 123
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Carpaccio de St Jacques 124
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“It is important to allow my teams to express themselves… This helps us understand how difficult it is to create. Obviously we are very demanding, but often by taking an idea we will not necessarily use, we refine a point, a technique. Something is built that may eventually become a great dish… In 1998 the young prodigy returned to his adoptive family, the distinctive Le Bristol atmosphere that he had so missed. It took a mere two years to conquer the challenge he set out for himself - to win a second star. In 2009, a third star crowned the work, talent and commitment of this devoted chef and the passionate team he assembled. Always surrounded by his team at Le Bristol, including his faithful second, Franck Leroy, MOF (Best Craftsman of France) 2000, chef Frechon puts his heart and soul into Epicure, the precious jewel in his crown dedicated to the four seasons. Echoing a garden à la française, Frechon completely redesigned the dining service and presentation hand in hand with master artisans, who transcribed to perfection his dream atmosphere in a manner simple and refined. Though voted Chef of the Year by his peers and decorated with the insignia of Knight of the Legion of Honor in 2009, Frechon is not one to rest on his laurels. Or put himself in the spotlight. “My grandfather grew vegetables, my father sold them, I cook them,” he summarizes with disarming simplicity. Especially meaningful considering that Le Bristol Paris was built over a former vegetable garden! Though Le Bristol Paris remains a favorite of the fashion world, Frechon’s cuisine does not follow the trends. “Fashions come and go, but traditional craftsmanship and authenticity are timeless. I have never adapted my cooking to the whims of the moment or even to my guests.” 125
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EPICURE the precious jewel box of an exceptional kitchen! one single objective - to make a meal at Epicure a memorable experience. Gastronomes flock to Epicure to enjoy a timeless and unforgettable cuisine, including dishes that have attained their own cult status - macaroni stuffed with black truffle, artichoke and duck foie gras, gratinéed with aged Parmesan; whiting fish in a breadand-crisped-almond crust with New Zealand spinach and olive oil flavored with curry and pequillo pepper; and the famous poached Bresse hen with white-rice ravioli, black truffle and crayfish. Le Bristol’s gastronomic restaurant not only gained in luminosity, it also received a name. Epicure, named for Epicurus, the famous Greek philosopher who believed that pleasure without excess is the surest path to happiness and wisdom. One enters the joyful world of Epicure through flowered curtains, custom designed by the Maison Frey, assuring that the initial impression is an aesthetic one. Louis XVIstyle moldings and a magnificent chandelier by master sculptor Delisle adorn the high ceilings. Light from the garden plays on the beige marble floors punctuated by green onyx cabochons. Each table is draped with linens by Garnier Thiébault and the tableware adds a poetic touch, echoing the delicate lines of the garden’s flora. Inspired by the rose garden, each meticulously hand-sculpted rose twining the presentation plates seems just on the verge of blooming, and the interlacing ivy engraved on the Christofle silver cutlery evokes the leaves that adorn the walls of the French garden. Each Baccarat crystal water glass was cut to blend harmoniously into the decor and the exquisitely light mouth-blown wine glasses seem to have escaped from the graceful Fontaine aux Amours. When the season prohibits dining on the terrace, where diners enjoy watching birds suspended in flight, a precious crystal butterfly is placed on each napkin as a reminder of the proximity of Le Bristol Paris’s famous garden à la Française. 126
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Chef Shinya Maeda Redefines culinary excellence with modern French gourmet dining A native of Japan, Chef de Cuisine Shinya Maeda is today considered one of the country’s leading culinary talents. He is responsible for ‘Collage,’ Conrad Tokyo’s newest modern French fine dining destination showcasing a blend of classical French cuisine and Chef Maeda’s unique contemporary approach to ingredients and technique, presented with distinctive graphic visual style. Maeda honed his culinary skills working alongside some of the world’s finest chefs in award-winning restaurants in the world. He began his culinary career at a sushi restaurant in Australia, going on to work as Chef de Partie at renowned restaurants like ‘The Canteen’ and ‘Soho House’ in London. A move to the United States brought invaluable experience in the kitchens of New York’s famed ‘Aquavit’, a contemporary favorite of many celebrities. Returning to England in 2004. In 2006 he joined Gordon Ramsay Holdings in the same role, working alongside Gordon Ramsay in several of his London restaurants including the iconoclast ‘The Savoy Grill,’ ‘Petrus,’ a two-starred Michelin modern French restaurant at that time, and the legendary ‘The Restaurant Gordon Ramsay’ in London. Although relatively young at the time, Maeda very quickly worked his way up the ranks of Ramsay’s legendary restaurants distinguishing himself with his Japanese-inspired creative flair and attention to detail until in early 2008 when he wash and picked and trained by the master chef to be his right-hand man in Japan at the helm of Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo’ and ‘Cerise by Gordon Ramsay’. In his first year Chef Maeda led ‘Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo,’ to critical acclaim with the award of a star by the Michelin Guide Tokyo, an honor he maintained for five consecutive years before launching ‘Collage’ in 2013. “Gordon Ramsay has always been a great supporter of my culinary career and recognized my wish to showcase my own personal approach to French dining,” says Chef Maeda. “My philosophy at ‘Collage’ is simple: I want to push the limits of modern French cuisine beyond the traditional combination of flavours and ingredients; to showcase dishes in a truly creative and innovative way.” 129
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Chef Maeda’s devotion to seasonal delicacies is legendary and at Collage it is combined with an extraordinary creative twist inspired by Japan’s seasons. At the heart of the new dining concept is a wider range of smaller inventive dishes enhancing a refined and versatile culinary experience. “Collage does not limit itself to the range of “Classic French” or “Creative French,” says Chef Maeda. “Instead it will meld tradition and contemporary with daring distinctive style to deliver in unexpected and deeply flavourful ways.” Collage opened in the summer of 2013 following an interiors refurbishment led by British interior and architectural specialists GA Design International to create a relaxed modern and sophisticated backdrop to Chef Maeda’s creative endeavours. Collage won a MICHELIN star for two consecutive years.
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WO’GOA catches up with Chef Maeda… WO’GOA: Tell us about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to become one of Japan’s notable chefs offering fine French cuisine with a distinctly modern twist. Chef Maeda: The reason why I chose French cuisine as my career in the culinary world was because I wanted to aim for the highest goal. By the time I decided to step into the culinary field, I was 24 years old and had almost no education or culinary experience. At first I thought about going into Japanese cuisine, but since the time consuming training as an apprentice is a very important factor in the Japanese way, I knew that I had little chance of succeeding in that field due to my age. So my idea was simple; I was living in London, and if I was to going to be a chef, I wanted to learn from the best, so I decided to send out my resumes to every Michelin-starred restaurant. In the end, the restaurant where I decided to start my career was French. WO’GOA: You have had the opportunity to work with the best in the culinary world – Marcus Samuelsson, Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay. How did that experience help to form who you are as a chef today? Chef Maeda: Those experiences helped me form the base structure of the style of “chef” that I am today. Because I had started off my career in an environment driven by the highest quality standards, such as the one of Gordon Ramsay, I always compare my standards to theirs and consider them as guidelines. So I expect my kitchen to be as good as theirs, as well as for myself; I aim to be the best, just like them. Everything that they did, influenced me. Their way of thinking and their management skills lives within me and formed the basic image of what a “chef” should be in my eyes.
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“My philosophy at ‘Collage’ is simple - I want to push the limits of modern French cuisine beyond the traditional combination of flavours and ingredients; to showcase dishes in a truly creative and innovative way.” 134
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CHEF SHINYA MAEDA - COLLAGE, CONRAD TOKYO
WO’GOA: Take us through your journey to becoming a chef and the inspiration to pursue your career in the culinary field? Chef Maeda: Back when I was 24 years old, I had no idea that I would step into the culinary world. I was working in restaurants not to learn to be a cook, but to wash dishes and earn money. But the environment that I was put in was a unique one. Among the chefs in the restaurants I worked in, there was one of the best Japanese chefs who was awarded Michelin stars. Having the finest chefs working right next to me, creating fascinating dishes and managing the busiest kitchens, was the initial and almost immediate attraction. So I guess I can say that it was a “coincidence” that I found my way into this field. Working alongside those chefs influenced me to decide to knock on the door of “The Canteen” and fight my way through under Marco Pierre White. WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? Chef Maeda: I try to portray myself as a model for other chefs, just like the chefs that I had worked with who had been for me. I hope that I can do the same for my colleagues as they pursue their way in the culinary world. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created, what inspired this recipe and why? Chef Maeda: I truly enjoyed coming up with the Foie Gras Cube, which is one of Collage’s signature dishes. The dish consists of Foie Gras cooked in different ways. All the cooking methods used for this dish represent different techniques I have learned throughout my career working with different cuisines and restaurants around the world. This dish is the compilation of my history as a chef. WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Chef Maeda: My cuisine is a ‘collage’ of my experiences, a mixture of everything that I have obtained throughout my career as a chef. Collage - my restaurant at the Conrad Tokyo encapsulates the style of cuisine I practice.
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CHEF SHINYA MAEDA - COLLAGE, CONRAD TOKYO
WO’GOA: Your culinary creations are a creative mix of tradition and innovation - unique contemporary approach to ingredients and technique and a twist to traditional French cuisine. How do you bring this balance to the plate? Chef Maeda: My goal is to always provide my guests with a new dining experience. That is why I go back to London and talk to my former colleagues and study the latest trends in their cuisine. Going through these procedures, I try to take my past experience, with my present work, work with new ingredients and techniques, and put them into the recipes creating new experiences for my guests. WO’GOA: What was the feeling in 2013, four months after opening Collage, when you were awarded your first Michelin star! Chef Maeda: Sure, I was simply happy! But moreover I was overwhelmed with relief. I had felt great appreciation to everyone who had supported me in the opening of Collage, but at the same time, I had to fight with the high expectations. Opening an original restaurant along with the famous Gordon Ramsay was not something easy and I think it was the same for the Conrad Tokyo to make such a decision. So I was relieved to get these results and show this as my gratitude to the people that gave me this opportunity. WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Chef Maeda: The dry-aging technique inspires me and working with a supplier of the world’s famous Wagyu Beef. Wagyu is very common for our Japanese guests, so it is challenging to find a new approach to it and to incorporate it into a “Collage-style” ingredient.
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CHEF SHINYA MAEDA - COLLAGE, CONRAD TOKYO
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WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Chef Maeda: The variety of approaches that Japanese seafood offers to a chef never tires me. Not only the diversity of species, but also the different tastes they have according to the geography, season and other factors. WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Chef Maeda: Technique used to be my highest priority back in the times when I worked in the well-known restaurants. I was desperate to shine amongst the numerous chefs and to be recognized. But now I would say creativity. This is my best tool to shine amongst the numerous restaurants and be recognized by guests. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Chef Maeda: White rice and some salty side dish to go with it. Even though it is simply a carbohydrate, I think there is no Japanese person who can fight back this temptation. WO’GOA: What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career? Chef Maeda: My motivation comes from new ingredients that I come across. Even if the ingredient itself isn’t new to me, the variance in taste they provide according to the producers, seasons, environments, etc. never stops triggering my curiosity. I find it both entertaining and challenging when I face new ingredients and I have to come up with recipes to make my guests happy. WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Chef Maeda: To a young cook, I would suggest to think well about what kind of chef he wants to be. Being a chef is a job which requires a lot of dedication and time. One should set their goals at an early stage and have a clear aim. Passion is the greatest ingredient in becoming a good chef, so my advice is to put all of your energy into working toward that goal.
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MODISA WILDLIFE PROJECT - SIRGA, VALENTIN GRUENER & MIKKEL LEGARTH
Ministry Of Crab 142
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Cricketing Legends Kumar Sangakkara, Mahela Jayawardane and Dharshan Munidasa 143
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA - MINISTRY OF CRAB, SRI LANKA
Sri Lanka’s first restaurant dedicated to serving export quality lagoon crabs is the brainchild of celebrated chef and restaurateur Dharshan Munidasa. Partnering with Sri Lankan Cricketing Legends Mahela Jayawardane and Kumar Sangakkara - the Ministry of Crab was launched in 2011, housed in the renovated 400 year old Dutch Hospital. The best of Sri Lanka’s Lagoon crabs, commonly held to be the best crabs in the world, have for decades been more easily available internationally than in Sri Lanka itself. It was an interest in rectifying this situation, among other things, which brought Dharshan, Mahela and Kumar together to form Ministry of Crab. The three co-owners agree that Ministry of Crab is intended as an ode to Sri Lanka, as the quality of the produce served at the restaurant reflects the bounty of the island. The ingredients used at the Ministry of Crab aren’t just the best, but also the freshest. Sourced and served in Sri Lanka, there is no way these crabs could be served to you as fresh anywhere else in the world. In fact, Ministry of Crab employs a daring no freezers policy, claiming, “the only use we’ve found for freezers is to store our food refuse prior to disposal,” as the co-owners believe that freezing both detracts from the taste and renders redundant the use of fresh produce. WO’GOA speaks with Dharshan Munidasa, Ministry of Crab is 2015’s No. 43 – Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant. WO’GOA: Tell us about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to became Sri Lanka’s celebrity chef and restaurateur offering a range of cuisines and food experiences! Dharshan Munidasa: I started to cook from a very young age by about 12 or 13, but I was banned from the kitchen by about 15. Being banned from your mother’s kitchen at that age left a stigma attached and when I was in the USA in university, the food was so bad that I jumped at the idea of cooking for myself from the 6th month of my education there. So cooking started there for me, where I had to write a menu and a grocery list and try not to over spend and eat well at the same time. That was the first step to becoming who I am as a chef today, cooking for myself. Nihonbashi, Ministry of Crab, Kaema Sutra, and The Tuna & The Crab are all reflections of my cooking experiences and preferences. I’m not making food for the sake of it nor am I trying to meet a certain need. I make food that I think is unique and that is how I ended up with distinctive restaurants. Becoming who I am now has been a journey of 20 years. It has been an evolutionary process, sometimes luck and pure hard work that led from one restaurant to a TV Show to the search for ingredients to ultimately my other restaurants. 144
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Chilli Crab 146
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WO’GOA: Your culinary creations at is based on simplicity of Japanese cuisine, Sri Lankan produce and techniques of other cultures, how do you bring this balance on the plate? Dharshan Munidasa: Being half Japanese, my thinking process is partially done in Japanese, therefore the simplicity of techniques and wanting the best ingredients stems from my very strong Japanese food culture. It is coded into my DNA, if you will, and that is how I think I am a more ingredient based chef. I do not use techniques from other cultures as much; they are mainly Japanese. Using simple things like Japanese utensils and techniques at all our restaurants exemplifies that fact. The use of charcoal is another simple Japanese technique. WO’GOA: Take us through your journey to becoming a chef and what inspired you to pursue this career? Dharshan Munidasa: It was the demise of my father that made me return to Sri Lanka soon after graduation. I already had a job lined up in Japan in the IT industry but my dad’s death prompted me to give it up and return home. After attending to family matters, my mother and I decided to open a restaurant and that is how Nihonbashi began. I used to cook and eat a lot and constantly wanting to eat good food is the reason Nihonbashi kept improving and is where it is today. Being half Japanese and half Sri Lankan in Sri Lanka, led to a Japanese restaurant which led to a TV Show which in turn led to an episode featuring crab. This eventually led to opening Ministry of Crab, and my childhood recipes of using Sri Lankan spices and making unique dishes resulted in Kaema Sutra. So it has always been an evolution and reflection of cooking what I love to eat. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have created so far, what inspired this recipe and why? Dharshan Munidasa: At Ministry of Crab it is the Garlic Chili Crab. I have been dabbling with Olive Oil and Soy Sauce for about a decade and this is one of the best dishes I could come up with that fused simple cooking styles with Italian Olive Oil and Japanese Soy Sauce. WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? Dharshan Munidasa: This would be the ingredients that come our way, but this happens daily. We have live crab coming into Ministry of Crab, we have unfrozen chicken by the ton coming into Kaema Sutra, and we have fish coming into Nihonbashi. But the influence, apart from all these ingredients, would be wanting to eat something different and this would really influence how I start conjuring dishes up in the kitchen. 147
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA - MINISTRY OF CRAB, SRI LANKA
WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Dharshan Munidasa: My cuisine is very ingredient specific. It may borrow strongly from Japanese philosophies, if you look at a sushi restaurant the dishes totally rely on each ingredient; you have one piece of tuna nigiri, one piece of prawn nigiri, so it is completely ingredient based. I cook with what is available and try to create something that is not by the textbook – I just take something simple, fresh the dish speaks for itself. WO’GOA: The world’s best lagoon crabs teamed with the icons of the cricketing world, which reads Sri Lank aloud, tell us about this unique Sri Lankan produce which puts Ministry of Crab on top 2015 - Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants! Dharshan Munidasa: As I mentioned earlier, one of the episodes on my TV show Culinary Journeys with Dharshan, was based on crab. The first half of the show was filmed in Sri Lanka and the second half in Singapore, and one of my friends asked me why I wasn’t starting a crab restaurant. Conversation and discussion over a glass of wine became an idea on paper, and that is how Ministry of Crab came up. Kumar and Mahela were friends and at the time and patronized Nihonbashi a lot and I asked them if they would like to be a part of this and they jumped at the idea. It is unique because it is the first proper Sri Lankan crab restaurant in Sri Lanka. It is not a Sri Lankan cuisine restaurant, it is a Sri Lankan ingredient restaurant like you’d find Sri Lankan crab in Singapore. We were very fortunate to find an amazing location in the Dutch Hospital in Colombo Fort and we created a very one of a kind restaurant. The iconic location, crab and cricketing heroes of Sri Lanka all led to Ministry of Crab becoming what it is today. I am very proud that Ministry of Crab is in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants just 3 years after it opened. WO’GOA: What was the feeling when your restaurants were awarded Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2013, 2014 and again this year! Dharshan Munidasa: The first time we got a letter via snail mail stating that Nihonbashi was on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants was in 2013. I was outside with my GM and we were blown away. I never thought, that in the quest to making the best possible Japanese restaurant in Sri Lanka, that we would end up on such a list. It’s been a privilege as well as a lot of hard work to remain on this list for 3 years running. But this year, having Ministry of Crab making it in was also a huge leap in where we stand in Asia. Only one other Chef has two restaurants on this list and I am privileged to be the other. I cannot be more proud of the fact that both restaurants I have on the list from Sri Lanka are two extremes in terms of food genres and cooking styles. 148
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Dharshan Munidasa, Mahela Jayawardane and Kumar Sangakkara 149
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Garlic Crab 150
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WO’GOA: Is there a process you go through to create a new dish? Dharshan Munidasa: There is never a process to create a new dish. I don’t walk into the kitchen with the intention to create something new. Most of the time I am inspired by an ingredient or plate or person and this would make me find an ingredient and try different styles of cooking until I find something I like. There is no time limit that I set on myself to create a new dish and it’s always something simple that makes an ingredient stand out. WO’GOA: In your opinion, who are the people who have inspired most with your food, could you share your experiences and how did they inspire you? Dharshan Munidasa: The people who have inspired me the most are probably my parents, my maternal grandparents from Japan, fishermen off the coast of Sri Lanka, fishmongers, tuna mongers, sellers at Tsukiji fish market, and restaurants in Tokyo my family has been patronizing for years. I learned good food from all of these individuals and this is how I have been inspired to make dishes with those experiences and knowledge. WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Dharshan Munidasa: I don’t think that after running a restaurant for 20 years that ingredients are new. They are always inspiring, and in the case of Japanese cuisine and going to Japan every month, you do see the change in ingredients because of the change in seasons. We work with the passage of time and it is a privilege to use seasonal ingredients such as vegetables and seafood from Japan. WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Dharshan Munidasa: If you will allow me to call charcoal an ingredient, I’d say this is my favourite. Charcoal creates a high temperature heat that seals when it cooks quickly; the dripping oil ignites the charcoal and the aromas and smokiness that emanates even with just 3 minutes of cooking is amazing. I think anything chargrilled is far superior to anything cooked on stainless steel. WO’GOA: Has there ever been an ingredient that you weren›t able to master and have given up on and why? Dharshan Munidasa: I think there are many ingredients I was not able to master. I have not tried to master all ingredients, as I am strong in what I already do. One dish I haven’t been able to master or have not tried for that matter is yeast as I’ve been too afraid. There are those who can do it far better than I could and I’d rather rely on them for dishes that require this ingredient. 151
DHARSHAN MUNIDASA - MINISTRY OF CRAB, SRI LANKA
WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Dharshan Munidasa: I think creativity and technique are both important and one depends on the other. When you know the traditional techniques, you are a better position to create something new. Knowing technique also allows you the opportunity to tweak things which may result in a brand new dish. What far outweighs creativity or technique, however, is the ingredients. With ingredients that are below standard, no matter what you create, with or without technique, will result in a dish that isn’t appetizing. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Dharshan Munidasa: This would depend in which country I am in. In Japan it would be Ramen – pure bliss in a bowl kind of food for me. In Sri Lanka it would be something new at Kaema Sutra. Out of all my kitchens, the one at Kaema Sutra keeps on churning out new dishes and the menu keeps evolving, and I fall in love with one of those dishes every time. WO’GOA: What keeps you motivated at this point in your career? Dharshan Munidasa: What motivates me now is what has always motivated me from the beginning – wanting to eat good food. It’s not revenue, it’s not publications or awards; it’s always trying to make something better to eat, and when you multiply that by 20 years at Nihonbashi, it has resulted in spin off restaurants, TV shows and new challenges and new dishes. Hunger and wanting to eat better food keeps motivating me. WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Dharshan Munidasa: Throw away your textbooks and the confines of a kitchen. Know that produce or ingredients come from land or sea or lakes and not from freezers or from suppliers or from packs. Know your fish, what it looks like, what it eats, what it tastes like, and that its taste depends on what it feeds on. These are the things you do not learn in hotels or hotel schools. Know your ingredients really well and with that knowledge make amazing dishes. WO’GOA: Its every chef’s dream to have a cook book, with your vast experience in the culinary field does, would we see a cookbook from Dharshan Munidasa? Dharshan Munidasa: It has certainly been a dream to have a cook book. I’ve been dreaming about it and not been doing much about it. Building restaurants, designing restaurants, designing dishes, costing them for the last 3 years have kept me really busy, but yes, I am looking forward to producing a book this year. 152
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JOANNÈS RIVIÈRE - CUISINE WAT DAMNAK, CAMBODIA
Joannès Rivière
Cuisine driven by ingredients available...
Joannès Rivière was born and raised near Roanne, a small town in the Loire department in France, famed for its gastronomy. He was immersed in the culinary industry from an early age through working in the family restaurant run by his father who also grew and supplied vegetables to the world-renowned three-star Michelin restaurant, La Maison Troisgros. It was from this backdrop that the importance of using local fresh quality produce became ingrained in the young Joannès – a principle which has never left him. At the age of 18, Joannès set his sights on becoming a chef, and so spent three years completing an internship at his local technical institute of cooking, graduating with honours in 2001. He then promptly set off for the U.S. where he honed his skills as a pastry chef for two years in Nantucket Island and Philadelphia. After his stint working very long hours in the U.S., Joannès fancied a change of scene. It was at this point in 2003 that he learned of a vacancy for a volunteer cookery teacher at the French NGO-run Sala Baï Hotel School in Siem Reap. Joannès jumped on the opportunity and subsequently taught cooking and hospitality skills to underprivileged young Cambodians for the next two years. During this time, Joannès wrote the school’s cookbook - one of the first cookery books about Cambodian food ever to be written and internationally published both in French and English. 154
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Rice wine steamed Mekong langoustine with Kurata pepper 156
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Over his many years spent living and working in Cambodia, Joannès’ love and passion for Cambodian food grew, along with his desire to open up his own restaurant. Finding just the right location, Joannès and Carole opened Cuisine Wat Damnak, with the aim of serving delicious and imaginative Cambodian food to locals, expats and travellers alike. Joannès gives the carefully-sourced, new and exciting produce special treatment, transforming them into delicious, beautifully presented dishes in his own modern interpretation of Cambodian cuisine. The well thoughtout and imaginative dégustation menus, which change every week to take into account the variation in seasonal produce, are specifically designed to encourage customers to sample an array of local specialties that they may not otherwise even think of ordering. In the short period of time since its opening, Cuisine Wat Damnak has indeed succeeded in achieving what it set out to do and is Number 50 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. WO’GOA catches up with Joannès Rivière... WO’GOA: Tell us about your formative years and how did you find your way into the culinary field to become Cambodia’s finest chef! Joannès Rivière: I started to work at my parents’ restaurant near Lyon as a summer job when I was 14 years old. Part of my family lived in Asia before I was born (Japan, Cambodia and Laos) so Asian cuisine was always something common around our household and from a very early age I was always passionate about Asian ingredients, especially herbs and spices. I started to work full time there when I was 18 after giving up on pursuing on a musical career for all kind of personal reasons. At the age of 20 I went to work in the US as a pastry chef for a couple of years. I then I moved to Cambodia in 2003 as a volunteer cooking teacher for unprivileged teenagers. During that period of time I wrote a Cambodian cook, forcing me into extended research on the topic. Thanks to that book I was hired at the emblematic Hotel de la Paix, first as an exec sous chef in charge of pastry and Cambodian food, then as an exec chef for over 5 years. Over that period of time I perfected my understanding of the local cuisine but all the more I built a network of suppliers, producers and foragers. During that period of time I met David Thomson from Nahm in Bangkok who convinced me to put all that knowledge into practice and open my own place where I would be free to do whatever I want without having to compromise on every level like you have to do in a big hotel. Until today I always managed to never really have someone over my head. I was always free to experiment whatever I wanted, sometimes very successfully, often less, but always by improving and developing my own style of cooking. I am not sure I am Cambodia’s finest chef but I guess my whole experience is based on my enthusiasm on the local cuisine and the products. 157
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WO’GOA: Your culinary creations is founded on the French touch and simple concept of local and seasonal produce to create exquisite Cambodian food, how do you bring this balance on the plate? Joannès Rivière: I either base my dishes on one ingredient, precious, rare or ordinary that I treat the best way I can, and on a traditional combination. I believe it’s the quality of the ingredients and years of culinary heritage that do the entire job. I am just a technician who might have caught the right trend at the right time in the right place. WO’GOA: What are your greatest influences in the kitchen? Joannès Rivière: My father, who taught me the respect of the vegetables as much as the meat. He was an organic vegetables farmer in the seventies, supplying La Maison Troigros, before organic what even a thing. He opened his own restaurant when I was 8 and always let me do whatever I wanted. I although taught me that it is better something cheap but good than something expensive and average. Both my grandmothers were excellent cooks with very different styles, but they are the one who introduced me to real quality products other than chicken breast, pasta and torchon ham. Michel Bras, even if I never went to his restaurant, who made me understand the beauty in local simple products long before the whole world went locavore and foraging. WO’GOA: In your opinion, what is the best recipe you have ever created and what inspired this recipe and why? Joannès Rivière: The menu changes every week so it is hard to say. At the moment I am doing a beef tongue dish inspired by what I would consider the most over-looked so called national dish of Cambodia called lok lak (which is actually Vietnamese.) The tongue is slow cooked for 8 hours, cooled down and thinly sliced before being pan-fried in pork fat. It’s super crispy on the outside and meting in the middle. I serve it with what we call “homemade oyster sauce” which is basically beef jus reduced with clam jus, Angkor stout beer, dry calamari and dry mushrooms. I add a fermented tomato ketchup I made in January, a few leaves of shiny cresson, some deep fried garlic and some really good black peppercorn from my friend Kurata. 158
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Tonle Sap puffer fish with tiger eggplant and peanut sauce 159
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Cambodian cinammon and chocolate light ganache with puffed rice and caramalized cashew nut 160
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WO’GOA: How would you describe your cuisine? Joannès Rivière: It is simple and goes straight to the essential. It is driven by ingredients available at the time. WO’GOA: What was the feeling when your restaurants were awarded Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants! Joannès Rivière: It is always great to be recognized by your peers. It is also great to see all the hard work we put in the place internationally recognized. I spend a lot of time in the restaurant. I go to the market every day, I am always the first in the kitchen and the last to leave and lock the door in the evening. I also think it is a great achievement for Cambodian cuisine and products. I am very proud to be part of that. WO’GOA: What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now and how do you select your ingredients? Joannès Rivière: I started to work on rice and it became a great source of fun and innovative texture. I also like it because at the end it is only rice. WO’GOA: What are your favorite ingredients you like to work with? Joannès Rivière: I am doing more and more fermentation. I like the idea of preparing something with the idea of serving it in a week, a month or a year. Nodaway you can get anything from all around the world if you put the price. But the time and the space that you have to use when you ferment something is the real luxury. WO’GOA: Creativity or Technique, what is more important to you and why? Joannès Rivière: Products are the most important. The rest is accessory to me. WO’GOA: What is your guilty pleasure food? Joannès Rivière: Burger king WO’GOA: What is it that keeps you motivated at this point in your career? Joannès Rivière: My beautiful wife and my two sons WO’GOA: What advice could you give to chefs who are first entering the field today? Joannès Rivière: Buy good expensive shoes, you are going to need them. And keep in mind that it is only food, not brain surgery.
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CHEF CHUNG KIN LEUNG - LAI BUN FU, HONG KONG
C hun g K i n L e u n g his unique ability to execute traditionally simple Chinese dishes with exquisite flavours into a fine dining experience... Few chefs have the honour of cooking for international dignitaries, but Chef Chung Kin Leung, the former Head Chef of the Hong Kong Government House has cooked for the most powerful and prominent figures, with impressive, experienced palettes which survey the world. Born in Guangzhou, the epicentre of where ‘yue cai’ (Cantonese cuisine) originates from, Chef Chung took an early interest in food, which only grew and blossomed when he relocated to Hong Kong at a formative age. Chef Chung’s interest in food and passion for learning about food, led him to pursue an apprenticeship at a renowned Chinese catering group at the tender age of 16. Here, Chef Chung learned the art of traditional fine Cantonese cuisine, and his excellent performance saw him rise up the ranks to become the main chef of the catering group. Chef Chung’s skill of executing traditionally simple dishes in an exquisite manner earned him a strong reputation of someone who can master the delicate art of transforming ‘homely’ Cantonese cuisine into a fine dining experience, earning him critical and wordof-mouth acclaim. 162
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CHEF CHUNG KIN LEUNG - LAI BUN FU, HONG KONG
In 2001, Chef Chung was appointed head chef at the residence of the Financial Secretary of Hong Kong. This role was followed by an esteemed tenure at the Chief Secretary Residence, and most recently at the Government House (2005-2014) where Chef Chung showcased his talents to the most formidable of diners, including numerous dignitaries, international business leaders, and Heads of State. After serving 10 years as the head chef of the Government House for 10 years, Chef Chung prepares to embark on a new adventure to share his love for food with the residents of the city he calls home. In late 2014, Chef Chung helms Lai Bun Fu, where he proudly shares his 37 years of honed culinary expertise in Cantonese dishes, which 164
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Foie Gras Prawn Cutlets on Toast
until now were only savoured exclusively by a select few. Lai Bun Fu in Cantonese means, Lai Bun “hospitality”, while “Fu” refers to “sifu” or master chef. Lai Bun Fu presents an exquisite menu of fine traditional Chinese cuisine with a modern twist, aimed to present diners with exquisite dishes served with conviviality. At Lai Bun Fu, the authentic cuisine is prepared by a team of highly experienced chefs helmed by Chef Chung, who personally visits the markets every day to source fresh and quality ingredients. With a range of ingredients from around the world, the Wagyu beef and scallops from Japan, Iberico pork from Spain, as well as dried shrimps from Tai O, a Hong Kong fishing town, located on the west side of Lantau Island. 165
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Stir fry Vegie shark Fin with Shredded Abalone and Scrambled Egg 166
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The menu presents a number of Chef Chung’s signature dishes from his Government House days as Head Chef there, as well as VIP favourites, which include Sifu’s Crispy Chicken with 5 flavour condiments, and the Foie Gras Prawn Cutlets on Toast, featuring whole fresh prawn on bread topped with smooth and creamy foie gras. Showcasing Hong Kong’s exquisite dried seafood, Lai Bun Fu Extra Special Hot Pot combines fish maw, abalone, sea cucumber, and goose webs, which are carefully simmered in a claypot, resulting in a flavourful experience. The extensive menu combines Chef Chung’s secret recipes and premium ingredients, such as Crispy Chicken Wing stuffed with Bird Nest, Baked Crab Meat and Bird›s Nest in Shell, Fresh Crab Claw Stir-fried with Egg White and Milk in Traditional Style, Traditional-style Steamed Chicken which needs to be pre-ordered a week in advance, Poached Thick Cut Conch with Oyster Sauce and Shrimp Paste Dip, and Typhoon Shelter Crab with Garlic and Chili. Rice is an important aspect of any Chinese meal and Chef Chung has sourced the finest grains from Heilongjiang Province in China, where it grows in the rich, fertile black soil that was previously molten lava rock. The rice harvested here is highly prized, having been served to the Imperial family in ancient times and now discerning diners in Hong Kong can sample this rare rice exclusively at Lai Bun Fu.
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Sifu’s Crispy Chicken with 5 Flavour Sauces 168
Vegetarian Shark Fin & Abalone Soup
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Lai Bun Fu Extra Special Hot Pot 169
CHEF CHUNG KIN LEUNG - LAI BUN FU, HONG KONG
Coupled with a carefully selected international wine collection, premium Chinese tea, and innovative cocktails representing Hong Kong, is the cutting-edge interior design to create a novel culinary journey. Harking back to Chef Chung’s 10 years at the Hong Kong Government House, Lai Bun Fu recreates the timeless sophistication and elegance of European architecture. Endowed with an East-meets-West ambience, the nostalgic aura with a modern twist exemplifies the past, present and future of Hong Kong. The flooring features classic beige and white checkered marble, while the forest green wall panels are adorned with elaborately decorated ceramic plates with architectural themes and colonial buildings that previously stood in the city, such as the Royal Building, Hong Kong Bank, Harbour Office and King Edward Hotel. To contrast with the classic décor are some whimsical pieces in Lai Bun Fu. The theme of the top hat and coat rack along the windows, as well as the collection of antique walking sticks pay homage to Hong Kong’s unique colonial British history, while on dining tables there are tasteful trinkets, such as ancient-style compasses modelled on antiques. A striking chandelier made of crystal cut glass ice buckets and ice cubes symbolising Lai Bun Fu’s commitment to social responsibilities, inspired by the ice bucket challenge last year. The dining ambience is further enhanced with favourite songs and music of yesteryear, signaled by the vintage record player to remind guests of the good old days. There is even a Chinese gong at the entrance of the restaurant to recreate the tradition at Hong Kong Government House, where dinner was announced with the striking of the gong. Lai Bun Fu is housed in an interior of over 2,000 sq ft of dining space that seats 52 guests and a private room for up to 12 guests. The VIP room, “Lai Bun Room”, is surrounded by glass and brass frame, inspired by an elegant house in a beautiful English garden. Designed by Hands Hospitality Limited, the interior and meticulous detailing of Lai Bun Fu recreates the old British colonial Hong Kong yet with a new innovative zest of modernity. “I am overjoyed by the support and excitement that Hong Kong has expressed towards my food. It is rare, but invigorating to receive such a warm reception for my new venture, and I am honoured to have the opportunity to share the cuisine I grew up with and love, with the city I call home,” shares Chef Chung. 170
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Whole Crab Claw with Stir Fry Milk 171
DAVE PYNT - BURNT ENDS, SINGAPORE
Dave Pynt Simple, Rustic and a Unique style of cooking It seems most Australian guys are generally born with a tong in one hand, a tinny in the other and the love of BBQ›s, Burnt Ends Sg Owner/Head Chef Dave Pynt is no exception! Originally from Perth WA, Dave comes from a heavy weight culinary background, staging and working under legends such as Tetsuya Wakuda of Tetsuya’s and Waku Ghin, Rene Redzepi of Noma, Asador Etxebarri’s Victor Arguinzoniz, Nuno Mendes of Viajante and The Loft Project and Fergus Henderson of St John and St John Bread and Wine. Plus the much talked about filming with super chef Raymond Blanc, were Dave told Raymond “first we need to burn the shit out of the leek”. Having studied at TAFE West Coast Institute of Training, while doing an apprenticeship in a popular restaurant in Perth. After graduation in 2005 Dave got his first serious job at Tetsuya’s in Sydney as Chef de Partie; the same year the restaurant was ranked #4 World’s 50 Best Restaurant and Best Restaurant in Australia in the S.Pellegrino list. Working alongside Chef Tetsuya Wakuda gave him the opportunity to sharpen his culinary technique and even to this day sitting next to him at the Asia 50 best 2015, Dave noted he still gets a little star struck and was honored and grateful to work under him all those years back. 172
Dave’s career took a major turn when he was hired as sous-chef by Hadleigh Troy Chef/ owner of Restaurant Amusé, an award winning modern Australian restaurant located in Perth. An intense year of high responsibilities and constant innovation for the restaurant remains a memorable and unforgettable experience for him. Like all great chefs, Dave knows the only way to gain experience and develop his skills was to travel and learn from different cultures, styles and ingredients when cooking. So with this in mind in 2010 Dave headed to Denmark to the Number 1 World’s 50 Best Restaurant in the S.Pellegrino list – NOMA, “My immersion into Scandinavian cooking has been eye opening, this is when I realized all the possibilities I could make out of the ingredients I am working with every day”. After 4 months in Denmark, Dave’s next trip was unknowingly most important, which would pave the way to he’s future style in cooking, Headed south to the Spanish Basque region to discover Chef Victor Arguinzoniz’s world of cooking with wood grills and ovens - Asador Etxebarri. Traditional Basque cuisine executed and cooked to perfection. During his time there, Dave discovered his passion for cooking out of a fire and the technical skills it requires.
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DAVE PYNT - BURNT ENDS, SINGAPORE
Creativity & Technique... are both important, they need to come together to create good dishes, you can never forget the classics though…that doesn’t need creativity, just respect! 174
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Dave ended his European tour in London where he met the iconic Chef Fergus Henderson, owner of the St John Group. At St John Bread and Wine, and later in 2011 worked and ran the “The Loft Project” with Chef Mendes, this high profile underground supper club setup for up and coming chefs to showcase their talents in a unique and intimate setting in East London. In spring 2012, Dave took residency at the “Climpson & Sons Roaster’s” courtyard where he installed an outdoor wood fired oven that he designed and built himself, and called it “Burnt Enz”, Dave did nothing but grill, everything from scallops to leeks and suckling pig. Dave’s philosophy was and remains to stay true to his Spanish mentor Chef Victor, where the grill is done over wood fire and the flame is masterly adjusted according to the ingredients. Over the summer Burnt Enz hosted some of the UK’s best young talents such as Junya Yamasaki of Koya, James Knappett of Bubbledogs and Ben Spalding formerly of Roganic and participated on a BBC TV show with Chef Raymond Blanc. From that success in 2012 it was brought to Singapore by some finger on the pulse backers, “Unlisted Collections” and now after two years Burnt Ends SG is grown to reach Number 30 in the San Pellegrino Asia’s 50 Best 2015. Over the last two years in Singapore, Dave has also been able to do some personal projects with Burntends and was invited overseas to be part of “E5 Bakery Music and Food Festival”, “Meatopia” in London, “Postrivoro” in Italy, back on home turf at “Restaurant Amuse’” in Perth, “Wonderfruit Music Festival” in Thailand, Qunci Villas in Lombok and also to Melbourne for the Highway One Street Party, plus Dave is looking forward to being a part of Gastronomika in San Sebastian with the theme of Singapore and Hong Kong! 175
CHEF BILL TELEPAN - TELPAN RESTAURANT, NEW YORK
The World of Telepan
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Text Doug Singer
Born and raised in New Jersey, Iconic Chef Bill Telepan has made an indelible mark on the culinary world. This is a man who was touting “farm to table” well before it became a trend. His commitment to local, fresh greenmarket ingredients and unique epicurean creations, have been gracing menus to the delight of many. Chef Telepan came up through the ranks by training with some of the best and upon graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, he landed an apprenticeship with the legendary Alain Chapel at his Three Michelin Star restaurant outside Lyons, France. Under Chapel, he honed his culinary skills and it was here that he learned the importance of retaining the integrity of fresh ingredients, which mirrored his upbringing in a family where they shared hearty meals commonly made with vegetables from their garden. Upon his return to New York City in the early 90’s, Chef Telepan hit the ground running by working with Daniel Boulud at Le Cirque and Gilbert Le Coze at Le Bernardin. Subsequently, he was he brought on as Executive Sous Chef by Alfred Portale at Gotham Bar & Grill, where for four years he continued to shine as he rocketed straight up the ladder of success. In 1998 Telepan earned Three Stars from The New York Times for his work as Executive Chef at Judson Grill where he remained until 2004. In 2005 Bill opened Telepan Restaurant on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, celebrating seasonal, fresh and local ingredients. Since its opening this celebrated New York eatery has received glowing reviews and a Michelin Star in 2014. 177
CHEF BILL TELEPAN - TELPAN RESTAURANT, NEW YORK
The ambience is one that which reflects the menufresh, clean lines and a warm elegance. The spectacular dishes we experienced during our meal at Telepan, included dishes for which he has become well known including the House-Smoked Brook Trout served with buckwheat-potato blini & black radish sour cream and the Grass-Fed Steak Tartare served with deviled egg sauce & preserved lemon. The tremendous choices made by our sommelier elevated each and every dish and kept us hungry for more. Another Telepan classic, the Lobster Bolognese (light herbs & shallot-garlic-tomato broth) shined alongside the Braised Halibut served with purple potato, shallot confit, parsley & horseradish. Bill Telepan’s cuisine draws its inspiration from the freshest ingredients, which are simply and skillfully prepared. “It’s about allowing the natural flavors to 178
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emerge from the ingredients,” says Telepan. This is greenmarket goodness at its best and Chef Telepan shows no signs of slowing down. Alongside his busy travel schedule, he finds time for his sincere commitment to education. Since 2008, he has been the Executive Chef of Wellness in the Schools (WITS), a non-profit organization dedicated to making school food healthy. As the first chef to join the WITS team, Bill has served as a leader of the WITS Cook for Kids program by developing nutritious school menus, training cafeteria workers and teaching culinary and nutrition concepts to students, parents and teachers. In 2009, Chef Telepan was honored with a selection to First Lady Michelle Obama’s Chefs Move to School task force and preliminary conferences. This prolific and talented individual continues to make his mark on the culinary world and WO’GOA was delighted to have feet on the ground in New York City to experience it first hand. 179
WATATSUMI - LE MÉRIDIEN MINA SEYAHI BEACH RESORT & MARINA, DUBAI
Cocktails with a New Dimension at Watatsumi Quite reluctant when asked “would you like a Sake cocktail”, since not a fan of Sake, at first decided to give a miss, then gave in to have a taste. Five brilliant cocktails with each having a distinct flavour, couldn’t tell if the drink had any Sake, all the flavours married just beautifully giving each cocktail a new dimension. All credit goes to Watatsumi’s bartender and mixologist Sarath Pillai. Singapore was the start to Sarath’s hospitality career, having got the opportunity to work part time during his college years with various international brands - Marriott, Starwood Hotels, Shangri La and Accor, this allowed Sarath to move forward and take up bartending. Learning
new recipes and creating them for guests was exciting, and started to create recipes according to the guest’s taste and preference of base spirits. Bartending got more exciting since he moved to Dubai, and adds “since there are a lot of cocktail lovers in this city who are interested to try something new, especially if they are signature cocktails of one’s own creations”. “Being a mixologist is a lot of work. It’s like cooking or running a kitchen. It’s about texture, temperature, flavors, ingredients. We come in hours before service to prep the drinks. And serving is like putting on a show. People have a tendency to come in and bartend for a little while and then call themselves mixologists. Mixology is a craft and you have to work your way up, learn the ins and outs of bartending. Like cooking, there is always more to learn” says Sarath. If you want to taste excellent cocktails and around the Marina area, well Watatsumi is the place to be at, the food is brilliant and the Back Cod is a must! 180
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Yamazaki Old Fashion
Typically old fashioned, the rye and bourbon is replaced with Yamazaki 12 years old, a mediumbodied Japanese whiskey, which has a delicate, mellow taste with a lingering, woody, dry finish. A pear flavored sake is added to give the drink a slight hint of sweetness… an excellent cocktail!
Cucumber Soyokaze A great combination – Shochu (Tominho Hozan Imo) has a bold sweet potato aroma with a well-rounded flavor, a hit of Barcadi along with cranberry and lemon juice blends well to this great summer drink!
Wat at s u m i Daiki ri
Five simple ingredients come together to make this a worthy beverage, very refreshing and just the right touch of sweetness, the Sake is light and delicious and it gives a richness to the taste. It harmonizes so beautifully with the Midori, strawberry puree, fresh lime and apple juice… just brilliant! 181
THE CHAMPAGNE ROOM - CONNAUGHT, MAYFAIR
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The Champagne Room at the Connaught in Mayfair The Champagne Room has opened its doors at the Connaught in Mayfair, affirming its status as one of London’s top destinations for bar and drink aficionado by offering the ultimate luxury drinking experience. Accessed via a heavy velvet curtain in the heart of the hotel, this intimate space, crafted by interior designer Guy Oliver offers a selection of exceptionally rare champagnes, fine wines and spirits all served in bespoke crystal Baccarat glasses. The carefully edited Champagne menu offers guests access to a handpicked selection of some of the most exclusive and rare vintages and limited edition champagnes. From one of the very last remaining bottles of Vintage Pol Roger’s legendary 1914 vintage to the immensely rich bouquet of the Bollinger “RD” from 1976 to a selection of vintage Krug, these champagnes offer a rare opportunity to experience them in perfect condition. Adding a touch of theatrical magic, the Champagne Room Trolley allows guests to become involved in the creation of their favourite cocktail by the white-gloved expert mixologists. Guests are greeted with a daily changing “welcome champagne cocktail” made with fresh and seasonal ingredients and are served with complimentary sweet and savoury amuse-bouches by our Executive Chef, Romuald Feger throughout the evening. The Champagne Room is illuminated by a large contemporary oval skylight which mirrors the Tadao Ando water feature at the entrance of the Connaught and is graced by a life-size bronze sculpture of a diver in motion by artist Sophie Dickens giving this intimate space a unique courtyard feel. Ovals are picked up in the mirrored furniture from the shape of the skylight which subtly refers to an underwater theme. Featuring a palette of neutral shades and lavish blue undertones, the humidor inspired brass bar takes centre stage adding richness and warmth against the splendid limestone floor and tactile leathers. All set against backdrops of different blue waters, Gilles Bensimon’s abstract underwater flower photographs hung on the walls also reflect the strong subaquatic influences. Interior designer Guy Oliver says, “The Champagne Bar is very Jules Verne in concept and in feeling. From the oval mirror top tables reflect the oval ceiling above and the wall lights and table top candle bases are based on an early camera lens that I found in a market in Moscow, every element in the Champagne Room is bespoke.” 183
SIGNATURE DISHES
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“Almond Tofu with Red Bell Pepper Puree garnished with tomato confit and daikon roll” by Chef Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room, Hong Kong Almond Tofu
Red Pepper Puree
Makes: 300ml
Makes: 300ml
SERVES 8 PREPARATION 10minutes COOKING 45minutes
SERVES 8 PREPARATION 5minutes COOKING 15minutes
25g Chinese Northern Almonds 25g Chinese Southern Almonds 200g water 150g milk 75g cream 5g bacon oil 4g gelatin sheets
3 red bell peppers, peeled and seeded 2 onions 10ml olive oil 1 spring of thyme 100ml chicken stock 10g butter
1. Wash and peel the bell peppers with a vegetable peeler, then cut into strips. Peel and quarter the 1. Place almonds in a non-reactive container and fill with water to soak overnight. onions. 2. The next day soak the gelatin sheets in ice water 2. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan. Add the onions until pliable. and cook on low heat for 3 minutes without 3. After the overnight soak, the almonds should be letting them color. When they turn translucent, soft. Pour all the almonds, along with the water add the pepper strips and thyme. Cook over they have soaked in, into a blender, and blend low heat for 5 minutes. Add the broth and bring on high until the mixture become smooth in to a boil, simmer for about 10 minutes. texture. Pass this mixture through a fine strainer 3. Remove the thyme, and blend the remaining into a saucepan, then add in milk, cream and ingredients in a blender. In between pulses, bacon oil. Slowly heat the mixture to around carefully add in the butter cubes, then blend 80ºC, then add the gelatin. Allow the mixture until smooth. Pass the mixture through a strainer, to cool down slightly before filling into serving and add salt to taste. containers, then transfer into fridge to set until it reaches a pudding-like consistency. To Finish Remove the containers of “almond tofu” out of the fridge and add a big spoonful of bell pepper puree on top of each. Garnish with tomato confit and daikon roll or desired salad vegetables. 185
SIGNATURE DISHES
Sologne Caviar
Ratte potato mousseline flavoured with haddock, crispy buckwheat straws
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by Chef Eric Frechon - EPICURE, Le Bristol, Paris Serves 8 Ingredients: 600 g peeled ratte potatoes 600 g haddock 300 g butter 30 g caviar per person 200 g softened butter 200 g buckwheat flour 200 g egg white 50 g wheat flour 100 g whipping cream ½ bunch of chives 1 lemon Preparation Cook the potatoes with the haddock, just covered with water. When they are soft, remove the haddock, press the potatoes through a sieve and finish this purée with the butter and the reduced cooking liquid if needed. Mix all the ingredients to make a wafer mixture. Spread thin layers of this mixture on non-stick baking sheets and bake for three minutes at °130C, then roll the wafers around thin iron rods to make straws. Lightly whip the cream with the lemon juice and then add the finely chopped chives. Assembly In a 50 g caviar tin, place 40 g of the purée and cover with 30 g of caviar. Spread very evenly to look like a tin of caviar. Fill the straws with the whipped cream.
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SIGNATURE DISHES
Stuffed pasta cooked au gratin with black truffles, artichokes, duck foie gras and mature parmesan
by Chef Eric Frechon - EPICURE, Le Bristol, Paris
Ingredients Pasta: 4 large “Candele” pasta 2 litres of chicken stock Pasta stuffing: 4 artichokes 1 lemon 100 g flour 50 g black truffle 100 g foie gras Salt and pepper Truffled chicken jus: 20 cl chicken jus 2.5 cl truffle juice 40 g truffle breakings
Mornay sauce: -20 g unsalted butter 20 g flour 200 ml milk 10 cl truffle juice 150 g grated Emmental cheese 50 g mature parmesan (for grating over the top) Salt and pepper Sauce supreme: 25 cl chicken stock 20 cl whipping cream Garnish: 4 wild rocket leaves 4 frisee lettuce leaves
Preparation: Cooking the pasta: Bring the chicken stock to the boil in a baking dish and put in the pasta. Cook at a simmer for 5 minutes. Drain into another dish, cover with cling film and set aside at room temperature. Making the stuffing: Pour the water together with juice of ½ a squeezed lemon into a mixing bowl. Remove the artichoke stems then trim the hearts with a knife. Set aside in the acidulated water. In a pot combine the flour with two litres of water and the juice of the remaining half lemon. Add salt. Immerse the artichoke hearts and cook for 40 minutes. Leave to cool in the cooking water. Drain, remove the choke then trim the hearts into very small cubes. Set aside in the fridge. Meanwhile cut the foie gras into small dice. Chop the black truffle finely. In a mixing bowl, mix the foie gras, the artichokes and the black truffle. Add salt and pepper. Set aside the stuffing in the fridge in a piping bag. 188
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Making the Mornay Sauce: Melt the butter in a sauté pan. Add the flour. Cook for two minutes on a low heat. Add the cold milk then mix well. Cook for five minutes on a low heat. Add the truffle juice and the Emmental. Remove and set aside in a bain-marie. Making the sauce supreme: In a saucepan, reduce the chicken stock with the whipping cream until a coating consistency is reached. Set aside in a bain-marie. Making the truffled chicken jus: Boil the chicken jus in a sauté pan. Add the truffle juice and breakings. Allow to reduce until a coating consistency is obtained. Assembling the pasta: Cut each “Candele” pasta into 8 cm lengths. Stuff with the truffle, artichoke and foie gras stuffing. Place three pasta pieces in a baking dish next to each other. Cover with Mornay sauce. Grate the mature parmesan over the pasta. Brown the pasta under a salamander grill. Plating: Place the three baked pasta on a flat plate. Dress the plate with the sauce supreme and the truffle juice. Add a leaf of wild rocket and a leaf of frisee lettuce. Serve immediately. 189
SIGNATURE DISHES
PASTA AL FORNO by David Rocco
1 lb. (500 g) rigatoni pasta 2 cups mustard oil for frying 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 large eggplant, cubed 15 infornate olives or any black olives, pitted and chopped 10 large sun-dried tomatoes, chopped 2 dried chili peppers, crushed (optional) Salt, QB 3 cups (750 mL) tomato purée 3/4 lb. (375 g) mozzarella cheese, shredded 3/4lb (375) Smoked scamorza cheese, roughly chopped ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for sprinkling Boil the water and cook your pasta. Heat up a frying pan over medium-high heat. Pour in the mustard oil until it is about 1-2 inches deep to deep-fry your cubes of eggplant. You want to make sure the oil is very hot, your eggplant should sizzle when it makes contact with the oil, otherwise you’ll end up with soggy, oil filled cubes of eggplant. Once the eggplant is nice and golden remove it from the oil and set aside on a dish with a paper towel to absorb excess oil. In a clean pan with 1-2 tablespoons of mustard oil, fry up your garlic until brown and add in the olives and sun dried tomatoes. Fry for 1-2 minutes and add in your tomato puree. Bring to a boil and then let simmer on medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until your pasta is ready. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Add all the sauce, eggplant, and then the mozzarella and scamorza cheeses. Mix thoroughly. Pour the whole thing into a large baking dish. Top with a good sprinkle of Parmigiano and you can add more mozzarella and scamorza cheese if you want. Bake in a 400°F (200°C) oven for about 30 minutes or until beautifully golden and crisp. Servers 4 - 6
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