WOKAL Issue 10 | Auguast 2021
C A R A V A N
Scrunchies Bunchies by Insha Iqbal
Elaborating
Photoj ournal i sm A Tribute To Danish Siddiqui
PEGASUS Spyware Scandal
Why Does
The status of the FourthPillar of Indian Democracy
August Make You Feel Lazy?
CONTENTS AUGUST SPECIAL
04
ELABORATING PHOTOJOURNALISM
08
CARAVAN: INTERVIEW WITH INSHA IQBAL
12
PEGASUS SPYWARE SCANDAL WHAT'S NEW
16 THE AFGHAN CRISIS 20 MEDIA: THE LENS TO DEMOCRACY
COVER
INDEPENDENCE ISSUE! Focusing on the importance of honest media in the modern times
CARAVAN
24 ARE PLUS SIZE BRIDES A DESIGNER'S NIGHTMARE?
STORIES TO SHARE
30 PROMOTING TOURISM THROUGH CINEMA
Check out the small business shenanigan of Insha Iqbal /p08
STATUS OF THE FOURTH PILLAR OF 35 DEMOCRACY
TRENDS 39
WHY DOES AUGUST MAKES YOU FEEL LAZY?
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5 MAKEUP GURUS EVERY MAKEUP ENTHUSIASTS SHOULD FOLLOW
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CANNES MOST DARING DRESSED
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THRIFTING: NOT SO SUSTAINABLE ANYMORE
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CHAK DE! INDIA: THE EVERGREEN PATRIOTIC CINEMA
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LOVE!
MOVIES
CHAK DE! INDIA
MAKEUP
5 BEAUTY GURUS TO FOLLOW
Why Chak De! India remains the evergreen patriotic cinema/ p61
WOKAL MAG | ISSUE 10 | AUGUT 2021
CREDITS
WOKAL ISSUE 10 AUGUST 2021
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ELABORATING PHOTOJOURNALISM AND ITS LEGACY IN INDIA By Aleema Nishat
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Showing the true face of India
TODAY, PHOTOJOURNALISM IS NOT JUST PROVIDING US VISUALS AND DRAGGING US ON THE SPOT, BUT IT ALSO PROVIDES AUTHENTICITY. YOU KNOW IT'S TRUE BECAUSE YOU SEE IT.
In an India where television is deliberately misleading, where rumours are more rampant than facts reportage and opinion in mainstream newspapers and magazines are routinely censored, no press conferences with the Prime Minister, photojournalism has been a major source of revelation in the subsequent exile in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic when the government claimed all was well. Taking these pictures is a risk to themselves but photojournalists throughout the country, many of them functioning on barely-subsistence wages, kept a vigil outside crematoria and hospitals and produced a never ending supply of devastating photographs that disproved the official narrative. They documented the overwhelming suffering, death—and the tragedy that continued in the aftermath of losing a loved one to the virus.
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THE LENSMAN WHO DARED TO CAPTURE REALITY One such photographer was Danish Siddiqui. He is a legend in itself, a story of inspiring courage and endless empathy. His photographs are portals into the agony and woe of the masses that he captured so much so that one of his subjects said recently, -
I can’t bear to look at my photograph, my legs shiver with pain.”
It was hard for all of us to look at that photograph of Mohammad Zubair, clad in all white, crouched on the ground, bleeding as he was being beaten viciously by a Hindu mob in February 2020. Siddiqui’s photographs of a Delhi crematorium working overtime glimpsed the actual condition prevailing at the time.
INDIA'S PULITZER PRIZE-WINNING Winning the Pulitzer Prize in PHOTOGRAPHER 2018, in the category of feature photography along with other colleagues for documenting the state of the Rohingya community in Myanmar, was a milestone in his career. The documentary was significant in many ways: it won the Pulitzer, and it also opened a window that increased the visibility of the struggles of the Rohingya community and their life in refugee camps.
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REMEMBERING DANISH SIDDIQUI Siddiqui's first brush with photography started early, with a borrowed black and white camera on a school trip to the Himalayas. After completing a Bachelor's degree from Jamia Millia Islamia, one of the most prestigious universities in Delhi, he proceeded to get a Master's degree in Mass Communication from the Communication Research Centre on the same campus. He kept being charmed by still photography all through his studies, and later during his television career.
Danish Siddiqui was killed in Afghanistan on the 13th of July, 2021. He was on an assignment, embedded with a convoy of Afghan security forces and, according to the reports, was covering the clash between the security forces and Taliban near a border crossing with Pakistan. Danish's demise has led to a range of emotions being expressed across fraternities, from respectful tributes to critical comments (from naysayers). His death was a blow to journalism and to the ones he inspired but his story will live on in the hearts of many and his cause will not be forsaken.
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CARAVAN e rr e a a h h s s o t o t s e s i e r i o r t o t S S
FEATURING INSHA IQBAL
Scrunchiesbunchie is a homegrown business that makes cute hair accessories, also known as 'scrunchies.' These in vogue premium goodies are made with satin, sass and lots of love. Read on to know more about the small business.
By Alina Ahmed
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- FEATURED INTERVIEW -
SCRUNCHIES BUNCHIE! You can find Insha's homegrown business on Instagram (@scrunchiesbunchie), .
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Q1. Tell us something about yourself. I am Insha, 15 years old, and the owner of Scrunchiesbunchie. I've always been interested in business from early years of life and now finally seeing a dream of mine come alive is exhilarating
Q2. Do you have any business partners? My sister is my business partner. She stays behind the scenes and acts as my advisor in everything. Being an introvert, she has the imaginative talent which promotes me to create cute scrunchies. We are just getting started, but she already has a long list of product ideas, promotive ideas, and an overall view of things for the long term. So naturally you can expect many cute yet classy things to pop out of our business.
Q3. Please shed some light on your business initiative, Scrunchie Bunchie. How did the idea come into existence? During the first stages of forming my business there were a lot of troubles. Being the youngest in the family may have some extreme pros but when it comes to the cons, is it really worth flaunting?
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You're expected to live a sheltered life regardless of how much you want to get out of it. I've had the idea of starting a scrunchies business for a long time. I had everything planned out but lacked financial and moral support. It was my sister who stepped forward after listening to my dilemma. She provided me with all the support I needed.
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Q4. How do you manage the business? What are the different portfolios that you handle? Managing a business is never easy. You have to take care of the products, designs, photos, social media marketing, customer service, packaging, shipping and a lot more! Q5. What all goes into creating a social media presence for your business? Community. Interacting with people is the easiest way to build up a social media presence. Supporting similar businesses like yours, naturally pulls you up. Because 'we only rise when we rise together'. Q6. What challenges did you face while bringing this business to life? When you start your own business there is tons of stuff you go through. For some it is family drama, not so supporting family and the negativity but with the right mindset and dedication no one can stop you.
Q7. Has the pandemic presented any hindrance to the business? We started our business post pandemic. Other than occasional shipping worries, we didn’t have any trouble since our small business is home grown.
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THE PEGASUS SPYWARE SCANDAL
By Aleema Nishat
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THE STORY SO FAR July ( 2021 )
The Pegasus Project- an investigation by an international media consortium- has revealed that more than 50,000 phone numbers were targeted by a spyware created by NSO Group, an Israeli software company. It is said the Indian government used it to spy on around 300 people between 2017 and 2019 including government officials, opposition politicians, journalists, activists and many others.
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Pegasus : What is it? Pegasus is a hacking software – or spyware – that is developed, marketed and licensed to governments around the world by the NSO Group Technologies. It has the capability to infect billions of phones running either iOS or Android operating systems.
Deemed as perhaps the most powerful piece of spyware ever developed, once it has wormed its way into your phone, without you noticing, it can turn it into a 24hour surveillance device. It can copy messages you send or receive, harvest your photos and record your calls. It might secretly film you through your phone’s camera, or activate the microphone to record your conversations. Furthermore , it can potentially pinpoint where
you are, where you’ve been, and who you’ve met. The spyware is designed to enter your device, gather your data, and forward it to a third party without your consent. The earliest version of Pegasus discovered, which was captured by researchers in 2016, infected phones through what is called spear phishing – text messages or emails that trick a target into clicking on a malicious link.
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Claims from the Company that developed the infection Pegasus Infection in mobile phones Pegasus infections can be achieved through so-called ‘zero-click’ attacks, which do not require any interaction from the phone’s owner in order to succeed. These will often exploit 'zero-day’ vulnerabilities, which are flaws or bugs in an operating system that the mobile phone’s manufacturer does not yet know about and so has not been able to fix. In 2019, WhatsApp revealed that NSO’s software had been used to send malware to more than 1,400 phones by exploiting a zero-day vulnerability.
The NSO Group which developed Pegasus officially claims it has 60 clients in 40 countries, though the company has not revealed their identities. Going by the Pegasus Project’s analysis of the phone numbers that the spyware possibly targeted, its clients have interests primarily in 10 countries: Azerbaijan, Bahrain, Kazakhstan,
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The Afghan Crisis
By Jigisha Sharma
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In a recent Opinion guest essay featuring Malala Yousafzai that was published by The New York Times, where she said “I Survived the Taliban. I Fear for My Afghan Sisters.”
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It is during these unprecedented times that these words make us question the degree of catastrophe that Afghanistan has succumbed to. The situations that have surfaced due to the Taliban’s conquest of the capital Kabul.
Malala Yousafzai when faced a similar situation of being threatened of her education in Pakistan, in 2008 the extremists then banned many things however not just from girls not being able to get an education but also then heinous crimes of shooting people at gunpoint as a form of punishment and the acts of violence presently happening in 2021, Afghanistan. Malala only being 11 years old set off on a journey of not getting an education, being the daughter of an educator for a girls' school was an unimaginable circumstance, of suddenness. However, after a few years she protested by publicly addressing an audience in Pakistan for how important women’s education was, and then having to be shot on the left side of her face on her way home in the town of Mingora for doing so, allows for us to then commemorate her for being the epitome of all things a good leader is as for the need of the hour. The spreading fear for women of Afghanistan that are over the years of 10 years of age, now might be questioning if they will ever feel safe in their own lands or flee from their own homes to start anew. For the serious human's rights, abuses continue,
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Pakistan has frequently denied that it was the architect of the Taliban enterprise, but there is little doubt about that for many Afghans who initially joined the movement were educated in religious schools(madrassas) in Pakistan. Attention to the Taliban initially was occurred on 11th September 2001, when the attacks on the World Trade Centre, New York when the Taliban were accused of providing a sanctuary for the terrorist Osama bin Laden leading the Al- Queda. However, over a few years in early December 2007, the Taliban regimen collapsed and its then leaders and Bin Laden were seized and imprisoned.
Over the time of two decades, the attempts to proceed to such violence by the Taliban or “students” in the Pashto language were made with the purpose to ultimately conquer the lands of Afghanistan and to propagate the Sharia law however it was reported on news channels like the BBC that the Taliban also employed or supported punishments in line with their strict interpretation of Sharia law - such as public executions of convicted murderers and adulterers, and amputations for those found guilty of theft. Specifically, men were required to grow beards and women had to wear the all-covering burka.
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In recent news that surfaced, however, the Taliban vowed to respect women, many cities faltered to the insurgents without many fights, the skepticism for women’s pride being protected and for empowerment to not be deterred is only a reflection of the crisis in Afghanistan in recent times.
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MEDIA: THE LENS TO DEMOCRACY By Harshita Singhal
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"Whoever controls the media controls the mind." This sentence quoted by Jim Morrison caged all the definitions of media into one. Media, a lens through which we see the outside world and its characteristics. It is the constitutional, political, legal instrument upholding the democracy of a country. Country is like a photograph where the controller is the media. It is a camera with various lenses, it can be a beautiful picture, an ugly picture, a temporary picture, or a duplicate one. It is upon us how we see it, as it is upon us how we form opinions on it.
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The new lens is also the controller of the media. It has the power to present the oppressor as the oppressed, the criminal as the victim, and the murderer as an innocent. It will shine so bright that it will blind your mind and beliefs. It will zoom out on the policy changes or the housing schemes for the nation, but will zoom in on political charges or the corruption schemes.
The delicate lens is fragile but yet as powerful as it can be and is the same as the new controller of the media, it will provide information to the nation for making responsible decisions and will also proctor that the promises made are remembered and fulfilled. It will show a clear view of our rights, but will also blur the way to undo a wrong. Media is a crucial component in bridging the gap between information and broadcast.
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The broken lens is the same as the oppressed media, it is crushed but is expected to do the right job the wrong way. It is threatened to be replaced. It wants freedom, liberty, dignity, but knows that one wrong click can shatter it all. It is supposed to be fair, but is influenced by the autocracy of the democratic. It wants to fight, speak and protest but knows that the end will be more than just broken.
Now is the time to change the lens and throw it away, it's time to purchase a new camera to bring new light to democracy.
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The damaged lens is the same as the irresponsible media, forgetting the rules of unbiased and factually rightful pictures. It has fallen prey to creating sensational and controversial pieces rather than putting pieces of value and factual importance. It has dangerously crossed the line between the broken and the damaged, forgetting the rights of integrity, knowledge it once promised.
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WHY ARE
Plus Size Brides A BRIDAL DESIGNER'S HORROR STORY?
Vinay Agarwal
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Experience of a PLUS SIZE
BRIDE !
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Earlier this month, I came across an *important* post while scrolling through Instagram rabbithole. The post was an account by a highly qualified bride Dr Tanaya on how she was judged by Tarun Tahiliani’s store staff on the basis of her body type (she happens to be plus size.)
While her account and ordeal was a reminder of how a lot of designers (including the ‘woke’ ones) turn away big size brides from their stores/ size charts (sometimes both); it was also an indicator of how fashion as an institution loves to police women’s bodies.
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Sharing her narrative, Dr. Tanaya
on her Instagram wrote
“There is SO much pressure on people to lose weight before their wedding. I had that too. Family, friends would ask why I wasn’t “dieting” before my wedding (in a span of one month). Some even went out of their way to send me “slimming teas”. Bridal stores would body shame (looking at you, Ambawatta Tarun Tahiliani (yeah, that was a massive shame, because I’d wanted to wear a Tarun T to my wedding since I was 12. Never going there again (also what’s with these big designers being afraid of big boobs?))” She added, “I cannot sing enough praises for the guys at Anita Dongre, who managed to make genuinely lovely lehenga in a span of three weeks. My closest friends, my lovely family, and my boy love me for who I am. And most importantly, I love me for who I am.”
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Her tale reminded me of an incident I was witness to personally. So I and my excolleague (she’s plus size, btw) were shopping freaks. We used to take a trip to shopping mall every week. Often our excursions ended up on sour note. Let me tell you why. After wandering through the alleys of malls , checking in at various stores,
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my colleague’s hope and excitement would come crashing down as whatever she used to like would be unavailable in her size. She was often told by the store assistants that 'Oh! We don’t have that dress in plus size’ said in multiple ways with the mixture of emotions ranging from genuine apology to pity to mockery.
The point I am trying to make here is that shopping, for plus size people, is far from retail therapy. For them, it can be a harrowing experience that has power to push them into the vicious cycle of questioning their body size. And it can be hundred times harrowing for a plus size bride, who probably at some point had to go shopping with her in-laws and relatives. Imagine her being turned away from the stores after stores (because, size issues!) – or worse lectured by a ‘concerned’ store staff to lose weight so that she can fit into one of their sizes, which to be honest, ends at L.
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Brands Charging Plus sized women
FAT TAX
Most of the bridal designers have been doing exactly that for decades. Fashion, which, surprisingly, has a progressive and a forward image takes on an ultraorthodox and super problematic approach when it comes to bridalwear. Either they ignore the plus size brides or charge a hefty fat tax for making clothes for them.
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The fat tax it levies from the plus size brides signifies that fashion not only likes to police brides’ bodies; it also sends a message somewhere that all fat bodies should be penalized. This fat tax furthers the currency of thin brides and contributes to the cultural trope that fat brides are not eligible for marriage. Not anymore! The time has come to change the conversation and let go of such antiquated views of body sizing. All sizes should be normalized- and that’s a basic right, every human should be entitled to.
ALL BRIDES are
beautiful
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PROMOTING TOURISM THROUGH CINEMA By Megha Diwan
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Do you remember writing ‘Trip to Goa with Friends' on your bucket list? If you were inspired after watching Dil Chahta Hai (2001) to do so, then you are definitely not alone. Indian Cinema has a direct as well as an indirect influence on the tourism industry. Movie Directors have always strived to provide their viewers with an extraordinary cinematic experience, shooting across various parts of the country as well as internationally. From bringing small town stories into the limelight to portraying everyday stories in a different light, Bollywood has given us numerous gems helping the audience to discover some great locations to explore and enjoy.
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Movies as old as Sholay (1975), which was shot against the beauty of lush green lands of a small village in the Southern state of Karnataka, to as recent as the horrorcomedy, Roohi (2021), shot in a forest in Uttarakhand, Indian Cinema has never failed to promote the unparalleled beauty of the Indian subcontinent. It would be unfair to not include the classic movie for the youth, Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani (2013) as this romcom showed us the best of both worlds. From seeing the cast enjoying trekking in the ice clad mountains of Gulmarg and Pahalgam in Kashmir to the protagonist couple exploring the city of Udaipur in Rajasthan, the audience loved the characters as well as the holistic aesthetic of the movie.
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Does “Mai Apni Favorite Hoon” ring a bell? Nobody can deny loving the character of the free-spirited girl, Geet, played by Kareena Kapoor Khan in another classic movie directed by Imtiaz Ali - Jab We Met (2007). This movie is a fun roller coaster that has it all. Whether it’s the protagonists - Shahid Kapoor and Kareena catching a train to Bhatinda or taking a road trip, from roaming around the wheat fields in Punjab to Kareena dancing against the icy backdrop of Rohtang pass - this movie presented the viewers with a refreshing experience. The couple is seen to be taking various road trips throughout the movie and the movie majorly has been shot across Punjab, Chandigarh and Shimla.
Main Apni Favourite Hoon!
We’re all familiar with the memes on Kangana crying in the movie Queen (2013). As we see Kangana, the protagonist of the movie, navigating through the alleys of Paris and Amsterdam transitioning from a naïve girl to a confident woman, it is hard to not fall in love with the scenic and alluring beauty of these places. From eating alone in a restaurant in a foreign country to partying with strangers who turn into friends, this movie felt like a fresh take on the notion of solo travelling. Paris has since long been the dream destination for many, and with this movie Amsterdam also got highlighted for its myriad locations. Although the concept of solo travelling might be alien to a lot of people, with this female-centric movie, travelling and exploring solo seemed a little approachable. Watching this movie will definitely leave you wanting to go on a solo trip.
Indian Cinema has not only undiscovered gems but also promoted the architectural heritage and tourism by giving us movies like Jodha Akbar (2008), which was shot across forts in Ajmer, Jaipur and Agra, to Lagaan (2001) which was shot in Kutch in Gujarat. Bollywood has never failed to leave the audience in awe as the shooting locations play a pivotal role in providing the viewers with a lasting impact which in turn has helped the Indian economy and the tourism industry in showcasing the world, our ravishing country and its exquisite topography. PAGE 34
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THE STATUS OF THE FOURTH-PILLAR OF INDIAN DEMOCRACY DURING THE POST-INDEPENDENCE ERA. Through the eyes of the senior Journalist, B. G. Verghese
By Arya Gupta
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Media is often termed as the fourth pillar of the Indian democracy following the first three namely – the Legislature, Executive and Judiciary. It is what we refer to as the bridge between the government and the people by keeping a third eye on the proceedings and keeping the masses well informed. But, was media always as strong as it is portrayed? Was the Indian press firm enough to bring about a considerable change during and post the independence of the country? Journalism during the independence movement was like a mission. The then motto was to ignite the feeling of unity and nationhood amongst the populace and to rebuild traditions and cultures of our nation. As a matter of fact, the motto with which the Indian press worked during the pre independence era, somewhat faded after India gained independence. The press, which was the most powerful weapon during the freedom movement, fell into the hands of commercialisation with the number of ethical journalists becoming even fewer
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As for the history of post-independence India, journalists such as B. G. Verghese played a significant role. He was more than a witness to the making of India at its foundational levels, the vandalising of constitutional institutions and unfolding of emergency. Being a senior journalist and the editor of leading papers – Hindustan Times (1969-75) and Indian Express (1982-86), he never compromised on his integrity as a journalist. During the post-independence era, Verghese stated that India, with over 400 channels in the country, has the most unregulated broadcast media in the world. He also pointed out that the Press Council of India is a weak instrument and should have penal powers to control the media.
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Verghese was one of those ethical journalists during the post-independence era who understood their sense of public duty. One major example that could be pointed out here is how the job of working as Indira Gandhi’s media advisor too did not prevent him from going against the government’s forcible takeover of Sikkim – a criticism which cost him his job. It is certain that the Indian media has taken several wrong turns in various events over the history but there have also been journalists who have saved the press from being paralysed by keeping the democratic values as their prime focus.
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WHY DOES AUGUST MAKE YOU FEEL
! y z a L
By Mitula Sai Subramanian
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Have you ever felt that August makes you sluggish and tired? It somehow causes a burnout that goes on forever until September arrives. Your productivity decreases; you can’t seem to get control over your life. This aversion to the month is commonly known as August Blues, where a mix of melancholy and anxiety completely disrupt your mental health.
Knowing the reason for the uneasiness Studies report that it is the uneasiness one feels due to the ambiguity of the season since it’s neither summer nor winter. It is similar to Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), where you experience changes in your mood characterised by depression that manifests at the same time of the year. You also experience lethargy and tiredness during SAD.
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So, is this the same as a Seasonal Affective Disorder? The answer is No. Stephen Ferrando, Director of Psychiatry at Westchester Medica Centre , states "in order to be diagnosed with a mood disorder, you have to have at least two weeks of pretty persistent symptoms that don’t really get better.” August Blues, however, is treatable. There are plenty of ways to get out of the torpid trance that one encounters in August. This is inherently different from how one experiences mood changes by depression in Seasonal Affective Disorder; it cannot be cured through non-medical interventions. Ferrando also mentions that in the case of August Blues, “if something good happens, you feel better, and if something not so good happens, you feel worse, but it’s a little more reactive to circumstance. A true disorder doesn’t react well to circumstance.”
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HOW TO COPE UP WITH
August Blues As mentioned before, August Blues can actually be treated. So, what should one do to escape it? The first step, albeit cliché, is to take it easy. One must acknowledge that this sadness is real and embrace it. Try indulging in a hobby that lets you express yourself without holding back. This might be photography, dancing, journalinganything that you feel most comfortable with. Most importantly, remember that this is an interim month; you will have productive days coming your way, so enjoy this feeling of laziness while it lasts.
Works Cited Heaney, Katie. “August Blues Are Like Sunday Blues, But for a Full Month.” The Cut, 15 Aug. 2017,
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BEAUTY GURUS EVERY MAKEUP ENTHUSIAST SHOULD FOLLOW!! By Hitashi
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Because of the pandemic, we all prefer to stay in and binge watch our favourite shows and favourite YouTube channels. Some of us are also learning new skills through online courses or just YouTube because knowledge is that easy to get in this living era. In case you’re a makeup lover like me or are just trying to up your skills, I have a list of beauty gurus you must follow!
Shreya Jain Shreya Jain
@shreyajain26
Whenever we talk about Indian beauty gurus, we just can’t skip Shreya Jain. She started her YouTube channel about 10 years ago in 2010 and uploaded her first video on 1st October, 2010 and has ever since proved to us that she’s here to stay! She focuses not only on makeup but also skincare and fashion! So, it’s a treat for all. She is famous for her non-sponsored content and is always onto giving honest opinions about every brand and every product. You’ll never see her advertising a product that has been involved in controversies or a brand that’s just morally wrong. She has around 7 lakh subscribers on YouTube and we just know she’s the first one to give us an honest review on any product and we just can’t ignore her amazing makeup skills and “how to” videos, she always brings something new to the table. Recently, Shreya even had a collaboration with one of the biggest international makeup brands, Mac, and launched 3 limited edition Makeup kits under the name Mac X Shreya Jain. She also does a lot of series on her channel around Diwali and Christmas which will for sure educate you and keep you entertained!
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Sohini Chanda Sohini Chanda
@sohinichanda_15
Sohini Chanda is a YouTuber from Kolkata and, in my opinion, the most underrated one! She started her YouTube journey 4 years ago in 2016 on October 20th. She’s super active on her YouTube as well as Instagram, posting almost every day, so you can binge watch some quality content and gain some knowledge regarding the new trends in makeup and the hottest products and sales in the market. Sohini does a lot of hauls and reviews about what’s new in the market so if you live by her word, you’ll never waste a single penny on a bad product. And how can we skip her dramatic eye looks? I love a good dramatic makeup look and some big fluttering lashes and if you’re one of them, follow her and you won’t get disappointed. Her videos are so open and friendly that it feels like having a virtual friend and I really think she deserves a lot more recognition (go support her and show some love)!
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Prakriti Singh Prakriti Singh
@abovealluring
This one is for all the dusky queens out there who often struggle to find dusky skin representation in the beauty industry. Prakriti Singh started her YouTube journey 3 years ago in 2018 on 20th July. She posts once a week so it’s quite easy to catch up with all her content if you’re someone who is often busy with work and struggling to find time to learn about the latest trends in makeup. Prakriti’s videos are very budget friendly and always straight to the point without wasting any of your time! So, if you’re done with YouTubers making basic tutorials as long as 45 minutes you must follow her! Her videos are very beginner friendly, like learning about the basics of contouring or using different face and eye brushes, basically starting out from scratch! If you love a good “no makeup” makeup look or makeup that looks good not only in pictures but also in person, her YouTube channel can become your everyday makeup handbook and we just can’t deny the fact that her videos are always of top-notch quality with aesthetically pleasing production and her soothing voice. Watching her channel after a long day of work is the perfect way to relax for any makeup lover out there!
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Nidhi Katiyar Nidhi Katiyar
@nidhi.167
Nidhi Katiyar is also one of the OG beauty gurus from India just like Shreya Jain! She started her YouTube journey in 2010 as well and now is the founder of a famous affordable Indian makeup brand known as “Cuffs and Lashes”. She is super-active on her YouTube posting almost everyday and her videos are always in Hindi so it’s perfect for everyone who is more comfortable with Hindi content! Nidhi is not just a beauty YouTuber but also a mother and an entrepreneur so you have to respect and support this hardworking queen here! If you’re on a strict budget but still want to put your best face out there, her channel and her brand is a makeup heaven for you with new products launching almost every 2 months, and with Nidhi constantly showing us new makeup trends and challenges you’ll never miss out on anything! Her videos are super friendly and she also has a series dedicated to underrated and affordable makeup brands!
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Debasree Banerjee Debasree Banerjee
@debasreee
This beauty guru on our list has been awarded as the “Cosmopolitan India Best Beauty Blogger”! Debasree started her YouTube journey 7 years ago in 2013 on 28th December and now has her own makeup brand named #Debasree with a huge range of water activated liners that are vegan and cruelty free, as we mentioned in our 8th Issue’s “Graphic liners 101”. Debasree is also quite active on her Instagram as well as YouTube, bringing us new product recommendations and reviews.
Her videos are very soothing and she never misses trying out any type of look whether it’s a dramatic one or a beginner friendly everyday look! She often comes live with some other beauty creators on her Instagram from time to time and creates some amazing makeup looks. Not only that, Debasree also gives us some major outfit and fitness inspiration through her Instagram from time to time, again a treat for all!
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Cannes Best, yet Most Daring, Dressed. By Mansi Rastogi
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While the wait for the annual Cannes festival reveal was longer than usual this year, it was surely worth each bated breath. The Cannes Film Festival is held in France every year, previews new films of all genres, including documentaries, from all around the world. Each year the world awaits the cream of creativity in the film industry to climb those 24 red carpet steps and showcase 'The Official Selection' that serves to highlight the diversity of cinematic creation through its different sections, each of which has its own distinct identity. Films that are representative of "arthouse cinema with a wide audience appeal" are presented in Competition, while Un Certain Regard focuses on works that have an original aim and aesthetic, and are guaranteed to make a discreet but strong impact on screens around the world. This year, the festival panned out from 6th July to 15th July 2021. Being one of the biggest red carpet events around the year, it provides a great platform to fashion devotees to deliver breathtaking showcases of the best haute couture.
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Having opened up with the screening of “Annette”, Bella Hadid stole the show in a vintage Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture while “Annette” star Marion Cotillard was seen in a stunning silver, tea-length Chanel Haute Couture. Jesica Chastain went on for a gothic vibe where she honed a corseted Christian Dior Haute Couture gown paired with nearly 200 carats worth of Chopard rubies.
Timothée Chalamet was another one of those who swooped hearts with his fashion aesthetic,he was dressed the part at the Louis
Vuitton
dinner
in
a
statement
checkered green-and-black jacket by the brand.While at the screening of his new movie with Wes Anderson, The French Dispatch,stole the carpet in a metallic silver Tom Ford suit, paired with Celine sunglasses and Cartier jewelry. His co star, Tilda Swinton, coloured the carpet with bright pop hues in an orange and pink Haider Ackermann ensemble featuring a slenderfitted orange dress, a pink short-sleeved suit jacket, and shimmery light green velvet sleeves. She tied the look together with matching hot pink pumps.
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Bella Hadid continued to astonish the spectators in a sleek black, lowcut Schiaparelli gown featuring an iconic gold tree piece that serves as both a necklace and décolleté coverage. This Avant garde gown was
designed
by
Daniel
Roseberry.The form-fitting black wool dress had a neckline that cut under Hadid's chest, which was covered by a gold-dipped necklace in
the
shape
of
the
bronchi
passageway of the lungs, adorned with
rhinestones.Hadid
sported
dramatic makeup with her hair in a high bun. She accessorized the look with large ruby drop earrings and a ruby ring. While all these looks were much talked about in the media, we cannot seem to wait for The Met Gala to make news in September this year.
ISSUE 10
Thrifting
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NOT SO SUSTAINABLE ANYMORE!
BY MITULA SAI SUBRAMANIAN
ISSUE 9
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Thrift fashion Biggest trend of 2020! 2020 was a landmark year for the fashion industry. Consumers realized that fast fashion caused mass production of cheap quality clothing, environmental damage, and the exploitation of the workforce and started looking for alternatives that would mitigate the same. This
was when thrifting became prominent; it was environmental friendly, cheap, and everything else that was not fast fashion.
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SO,WHAT IS
? m e l b o pr
THE
Well, it takes two to tango. If fast fashion companies were mass-producing, then customers were mass-consuming. The demand for ever-trendy clothing has never decreased; it has only shifted to thrifting. Thrifting, a source of clothing for poor and low-income families, has suddenly experienced consumer inflation, with even rich people purchasing thrifted garments. This shift in the market has rendered low-income families helpless by the subsequent increase in prices of second-hand clothing. Also, the customers still pursue a maximalist approach while shopping, which takes away from the essence of thrifting and sustainability. We can change this by adopting
minimalism, which requires one to reuse their clothes until they have no use. One must shop for secondhand clothing only when necessary. This will ensure that the spirit of thrifting remains intact and sustainability in the fashion industry is achieved.
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CHAK DE! INDIA T H E
E V E R G R E E N
MEHAK
P A T R I O T I C
PASRICHA
C I N E M A
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While the movie did bring out a lot of issues to light, the question still remains: Why is it so important and relevant in today’s times?
ISSUE10
With Independence Day right around the corner, everyone is super high with their patriotic spirits. Along with that, the Tokyo Olympics and the Indian Team doing so well in them, and making the country proud, has definitely taken this patriotic spirit a notch or two higher. While watching the Tokyo Olympics and The Indian Women’s Hockey Team, I’m sure everyone has at least once thought of Chak De! India and why not, it runs along the same lines and who doesn’t like going back and rewatching early 2000s movies.
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Released in 2007, the movie did extremely well at the box office and was loved and appreciated by the young and the old alike. The movie brought to light extremely important issues, and some of them in such a subtle and thoughtful way. While it definitely talked about women empowerment, women in sports and their mental health, it, along with that, also talked about the religious divide and the stigma attached to it. Although the movie started with and to an extent followed Kabir Khan’s journey, the directors, writers and cinematographers ensured that they didn't let that overpower the plot of the movie. With Kabir Khan’s journey going on one side, on the other we saw The All India Women’s Hockey Team’s holistic journey and the players personal journey and growth, most importantly as capable individuals realising their worth and standing for their rights. The movie very beautifully brought forward the plight associated with Indian “Married and Engaged” Women in sports, the divide between Men and Women’s Teams, the art of team building, unity in diversity, women building women and so many more relevant and extremely important themes surrounding Women in Sports.
The movie was released back in 2007, and 14 years later, we’re still somewhere or the other stuck in the same loop. The movie was appreciated by old and young alike and people from all walks of the society, but where’s the change in the situation?
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YOU GO GIRL! Women in sports are still discriminated against, we still don’t hesitate to call someone from the North East a “guest” or “chowmein”, women’s mental health is still a staggering issue. While we don’t stop appreciating women when they bring home medals, somewhere or the other there’s still a stigma attached around women in sports and certain other job profiles. It’s extremely important to not let the narrative end on screen but rather take steps to ensure these stigmas are removed from society completely.
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Women in sports or any other job profile can excel and be limitless if given the right training. And at this point in time, seeing how well various Indian women athletes are doing in the Tokyo Olympics, it’s a live example of this. It’s crucial to take a step in the right direction and make women equally equipped in sports as well as other profiles because they can take the country to greater heights. Make sure to binge watch Chak De! India and this time look at it from a contemporary perspective too!
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Decoding Why We Choose the Ones Who Never Choose Us
LOVE! By Hiba
WOKAL
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'
Pop-culture s
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Just ahead of the "who slept with whom" and "who kissed whose boyfriend" fiascos of Greek God chiseled bodied "teenagers" in mainstream television romances, there
extremely
is some glint of reality reflected by onscreen couples.
harmful interpretations
From Blair choosing Chuck even after he sold her for a hotel, Rachel turning down her dream job in Paris at the last-minute for Ross, Ted pining after Robin for
of love and
almost
a
decade
or
Elena
losing
composure in the mystery of Damon's
romance
eyes everytime, all of these have set the benchmark in pop-culture for extremely harmful interpretations of love and romance.
04
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Normalising Toxicity
If you're familiar with any of the characters mentioned above (you've probably been living under a rock if you aren't) then you must be aware that these female leads are powerful, independent and successful women. They are idolized by uncountable impressionable girls. Case in point: I still wear headbands with bows on the right side to feel The Blair Waldorf level of empowerment. The influence that such female characters have on young girls is immaculate. If their lifestyles and attributes end up being internalised, so do their romantic decisions.
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This infatuation with emotionally closed off men, attempts to soften them with affection, withholding love or getting them to fall through seduction is nothing short of normalising toxicity. Now Bollywood isn't one to shy from pushing this narrative either. Cult classics like Ae Dil Hai Mushkil and Devdas relentlessly romanticised the power of "ek tarfa pyaar". This contributes to why we're so intrigued by disinterested people who are only capable of loving half-heartedly and give us our "Ye kon hai jisne poo ko mudd kar nahi dekha?" moment. Even seemingly unproblematic pieces like Shammi Kapoor hopping around in valleys in "Tumse Acha Kaun Hai" shows him pursuing and harassing a woman who's visibly uncomfortable. Another instance is the catchy SRK song "Apun Bola" with lyrics like "Hothon pe na dil mein haan hoyenga, Aaj nahin to kal bolegi" which, in the name of comedy, declares the woman's vocal consent irrelevant.
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This is the kind of content that we are exposed to from a young age. Over time, we accept it as normal and this becomes our perception of love. Men start believing that the violence in them is merely passion and that they're entitled towards women's bodies and affections. Women are conditioned to think that they need to "fix" men in order to "earn" their love. This unhealthy, disgusting perception is a generational and carefully preserved pattern. There's no beautiful boy with dark hair and a darker past coming to save you and kiss away your scars someday (I need to stop exposing my fantasies, yes). The silver screen isn't the only place where we should be looking for accountability. It's merely a product of demand and supply, ergo a product of societal conditioning towards love. Now that we've located the blush pink painted red flags, it's time to find out who tried to hide them with the cherry blossoms. Heads up, I'm not a love guru or a psychoanalyst (pretentiously? yes. professionally? no.) but here's what I concluded from a quick research, a.k.a. speed reading too many saucy vanity fair articles.
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Our romantic relationships are a reflection of our childhood relationships. If someone had an emotionally distant parent or an isolated childhood, they tend to repeat those patterns their entire life out of habit. They always feel the need to prove their worth for expressive affection and need a sense of achievement to feel deserving of love. Apologies in advance for being the one who has to break your bubble, but from what I've learned from very limited yet educating romantic experiences is - if they always leave you confused or if you have to constantly dissect everything someone does or say to conclude whether they like you or not, they're just not that into you. If they were, you'd know for sure. That's the thing, our perception of love will always be more golden than the actual thing. Even if you'll have someone because you pined after them, you'll eventually realise that all the thrill was in the chase. They'll be just another person with flaws and insecurities, a disappointing shadow of the perfect, idealised version you had formed of them because of your projections. Although hardships in love are considered a staple, it's not imperative for it to be hurtful that way. Yes, complications are unavoidable because life happens again and again but loving is what we do best, it is all that we are made for, that's how it outlives all our other creations. Love is kind and virtuous, it softens us in all the strong shimmering ways, it's all the beauty and magnificence in the world and the only thing worth living or dying for. Afterall, Chandler found his Monica and Marshmallow loved his Lilypad in the heartbreaking New York too.
INFORM. INSIGHT. INSPIRE. WOKAL MAGAZINE
ISSUE 10| AUGUST 2021
WOKAL ISSUE 10 | AUGUST 2021