Wild Travel - Canoeing the Selinda Spillway by Neil Aldridge

Trip Report

Gentlydown the stream SELINDA RESERVE

rom around a bend in the river ahead emanates the sound of deep, honking laughter: “Ha, ha, ha, haaaa”. It prompts a chorus of chuckles that scares the skulking egrets into trees like wind-blown napkins. My imagination conjures images of a family of giants at dinner, cutlery clutched in meaty fists, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the main dish. The hairs on the back of my neck stand up and my hands on the oar grow damp. Are we to be supper? Three days earlier, I had arrived at Botswana’s Selinda Spillway, a legendary seasonal waterway that was dry for 30 years and has only recently begun to flow again. My mission: to paddle a canoe 45km down this capricious river, to see its incredible wildlife from a unique perspective and explore places few others have seen.

The Selinda Spillway, an offshoot of Botswana’s famous Okavango Delta, is perfect for a canoe safari through a wildlife-rich wilderness Words by Sophie Stafford photos by neil aldridge

First, though, I had to master the transport… Beached in a quiet backwater on the 320,000-acre Selinda Reserve I was sitting on a pea green, 18ft, two-man canoe. Electing to perch in the front of the vessel, so that I didn’t have to master navigation as well as paddling on my first outing, I lowered myself onto a tiny seat cushioned by a life jacket. Then, gripping the oar, I swiped tentatively at the water… and smacked the hull with a loud bang, soaking myself in the process. Clearly, it was harder than it looked. Before long, however, four canoes were weaving up, down and across the river, some even going backwards. Like unruly horses, we had little control over our craft and collisions – with each other as well as with

Here: guide Josh Iremonger approaches a drinking elephant with caution Opposite: an African Fish Eagle swoops low over the Selinda Spillway

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An elephant family drinks in front of the canoers along the Spillway in the last light of the day

clumps of floating papyrus, logs and the nearest bank – proved inevitable. Fortunately, we were heading downstream for the entire journey, and with the current pushing steadily against our sterns we eventually managed to direct our canoes to follow our guide, Josh Iremonger. He reclined in solitary splendour in his canoe, feet propped high on the bag in front of him, lazily dipping his paddle into the water as he watched our antics. “It gets easier,” he smiled. Our first foray was only a short distance and over the next 40 minutes we became competent enough to not only paddle but also admire the scenery passing by. As the sun slid beneath the horizon, we beached the canoes on a bank where Josh’s trail team were waiting. Within minutes, they had whisked our bags away to large, domed tents and, offering the prospect of much-needed hot showers, had given us the guided tour of two long-drop toilets with now-dimming views of the surrounding African bush. That night, we enjoyed a sumptuous feast under a full moon serenaded by an enthusiastic chorus of crickets, Reed Frogs and Fiery-necked Nightjars. The next day we set out on our first 17km paddle under a cerulean blue sky. I was concentrating on stroking my oar through the water when I noticed a huge bull elephant crossing the river ahead. Drifting our canoes together, we formed a raft and watched silently. He clearly knew we were there, but he didn’t know what we were and so he wasn’t afraid. Surging into the river, which, at its deepest point, came to

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just beneath his eyes, he raised the tip of his trunk out of the water like a periscope. Questingly, it ‘looked’ our way, but finding no cause for concern, twitched back, constantly on the move. Reaching the opposite bank, the bull marched, dripping, into the bush. We collectively released breath we didn’t know we had been holding, and exchanged looks as eloquent as whoops of delight. Further on, we paused for an impromptu walk, true explorer style. The river winds through parts of the reserve where there are no roads and no people, and the local wildlife only encounters Josh’s canoe safaris fleetingly for a few months each year. As a result, there’s a feeling of solitude and genuine wilderness here, one that is becoming increasingly hard to find in Africa.

uietly we walked in single file through umbrella thorn acacias, butterfly-leaved mopanes and intoxicating marula trees until we spotted a herd of elephants on the far side of a clearing. Hiding ourselves by climbing on a tall termite mound fringed with dense vegetation and crowned by a vast jackalberry tree, we watched two calves wrestling gleefully. Suddenly, rustling grass alerted us to the approach of an elephant. It was close, too close. We froze. A mother and her calf were browsing on the bushes around us. She seemed to suspect that something was hiding nearby, but with a perfunctory warning flap of her ears in our direction, she continued to feed. The pair were so close we could hear them

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Trip Report

SELINDA RESERVE

This page, clockwise from left: the winding course of the Selinda Spillway from the air; lunches are prepared and served right on the riverbank; African Jacanas are ubiquitous along the Spillway; herds of elephant line both banks. Opposite: a bull Sable Antelope charges through the shallows

exhaling and unconsciously our breathing gradually started to synchronise with theirs. Then they were joined by a teenage male – and the dynamic changed. Youngsters are more excitable, unpredictable and prone to overreacting, sometimes inciting a stampede before more mature elephants realise there’s no reason to panic. Time to leave. Silently we sneaked away, leaving the elephants to their lunch. Back at the canoes, we quizzed Josh about the river’s most dangerous animals: crocodiles and Hippos. “There are no crocodiles on this stretch,” Josh reassured us. (Relieved faces all round.) “There’s not enough Impala for the big ones, nor large fish for the small ones. And Hippos are not as aggressive as they’re made out to be. “The biggest danger is a guest who panics. You have to stay calm and in control of your canoe,” he continued solemnly. “Wind and waves may push you in all directions, but you can’t allow yourself to float into a pod of Hippos. They could bite through the hull with their tusks.” Soberly, we paddled on, trying to improve our technique for whatever was waiting around the next bend.

hat evening, as we arrived at the next campsite, a flash of white caught the corner of our eyes and a whiff of something rotten tickled our noses. Three African Wild Dogs were heading towards the trees behind our tents! Josh knew the pack and suspected that they may have puppies, so the next morning we followed the sound of high-pitched yittering to the edge of the wood. Two of the adults stood guard but they were not bothered by our presence, uttering no alarm barks. Beyond them was an earth mound perfect for a den. As we waited quietly eight dark brown puppies tumbled out. What a privilege – they were so small we suspected that this might even have been one of their first trips above ground. We watched for a while then left the family in peace. Inspired, we were eager to be off. Now confident on the

“We cruised serenely past herds of elephants and imperious buffalo coming down to the water to drink”

water, we cruised serenely past herds of elephants and imperious buffalos coming down to drink, watched Guineafowl bobbing on the bank like animated tea cosies and Pied Kingfishers plunge-diving in the shallows. The sound of Josh banging his paddle against his canoe brought us all up with a jolt. Hippo alert. “Follow me in single file and I will choose the safest route,” he instructed us. “It may look shallow, but the bottom drops away unexpectedly, creating deep pools where 20 Hippos could be hiding and you’d never know it. Keep together, hug the bank and be really quiet.” Gripping our paddles with sweating palms, we edged forward on the Spillway. As we rounded the bend, two Hippos watched us warily. One vanished beneath the water as if suddenly sucked down from below, a whirlpool marking its escape route, while the other grunted a warning, plumes of vapour shooting high

A LOST RIVER RESTORED The Selinda Spillway is an ancient channel that connects the northern reaches of the Okavango Delta in the west with the Linyanti Swamps in the east. For over 30 years the Spillway was as dry and cracked as the skin of an old elephant, but in 2009 exceptional local

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Pied Kingfisher

How the Selinda Spillway sprang back into life

rainfall and peak floodwaters from Angola in the north brought it back to life, causing it to flow once more. Since then, ample rains have ensured that the river is restored annually, winding a sinuous path through the Selinda Reserve and

into the Zibadianja Lagoon, which was once so dry that the owners of the nearby Zarafa Lodge used to be able to land their plane on it. The river’s water levels peak between June and August – during Botswana’s dry winter months – creating lush floodplains that attract great concentrations of game from miles around. But the Spillway will not flow forever. With each year that passes, it dries up a little earlier and, in a year or two, it may be just a memory once more.

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SELINDA RESERVE

“Anxiously we scanned the surface for the bow wave that would indicate the Hippo was now running at full pelt toward our boats, intending to ram us”

A Hippo bursts into a yawn to flash its arsenal of teeth as a warning not to come too close

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Trip Report

SELINDA RESERVE above its head like a whale’s spout. It wasn’t happy to see us. When we continued to creep forward, it gave a huge yawn, tossing its head back onto its shoulders to ensure that we had seen and appreciated the size of its huge tusks – and, of course, the threat they represented. As we eyed it nervously, it made a little lunge towards us and then submerged, a threat display known as ‘porpoising’. Anxiously we scanned the surface for the bow wave that would indicate the Hippo was now running at full pelt across the bottom towards our boats, intending to ram us. If it did so, we were to bang our canoes with our paddles to discourage it, then hasten to dry land and keep going. Hippos are not as confident out of the water. Fortunately, it was all just for show and the grumpy Hippo resurfaced in the same spot, watching us pass through his pool resentfully. Afterwards, he honked triumphantly as if to say, “That told you!” We all smiled in relief and our paddling became almost joyful as we skimmed effortlessly towards camp.

o, on our final morning we are woken by the booming of Ground Hornbills, a sound so musical one of the guests thinks the trail team has broken into song. Then the mood sobers. This is the day of our greatest challenge – negotiating a ‘Hippo highway’ and huge pool popular with the local pod. So, here we are, reciting the Hippo Protocol, and listening to the “Ha, ha, ha” of the giants groaning and chortling to themselves, blissfully unaware of our approach. We take deep breaths, wipe sticky palms on shorts and push off. At least 12 Hippos watch us suspiciously, yawning and grunting for effect. Suddenly one surfaces right next to the canoes, giving both us and himself a fright. He dives, running past us along the bottom, his ‘footprint’ – an oval of flat water similar to that left in a whale’s wake – revealing his progress. As we watch with eyes like saucers, he surfaces again. This

TRIP ADVISER Selinda Game Reserve Okavango Delta

BOTSWANA

welcome), consisting of three full days and two half-days relatively easy paddling and four nights in fly camps. The price of USD2,660 pp is inclusive of accommodation, guiding and related activities, fees, meals and drinks. www.greatplainsconser vation.com/selindacanoetrail

Getting there: Fly to Jo’burg,

GABARONE

cost rating Sample tour: Great Plains

Conservation offer a 5 day/4 night safari for max eight people (singles

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South Africa, from British airports with BA, Virgin, South African Airways (SAA) and other s. Fly on to Maun, Botswana’s gateway to the Okavango Delta, with SAA or Air Botswana from £250. SAA’s fares to Maun may be cheaper if booked with international flight to Jo’burg. To reach the Selinda

time he thrusts his powerful body surprisingly high out of the water, tossing his head, mouth agape, tusks gouging the air, before splashing down and returning to the safety of his pod. It’s all a big fuss about nothing, but we are impressed and exhilarated to have completed our final challenge. Paddling around the corner and sliding professionally up onto the bank, we reluctantly say goodbye to the vanishing river. We’re running late for our flight home, but Josh quips, “No problem. We’ll just tell the pilot we had a bit of a problem with some heavy traffic”. Above: the sun sets over the Selinda Spillway as calm waters reflect sun-kissed clouds. Right: the Squacco Heron is one of the most striking birds that lives along the Spillway

Reserve from Maun, Sophie flew with Mack Air: www.mackair.co.bw.

Visas from the UK: None Tips and warnings: No

previous paddling experience is required. Bring waterproof shoes, swimming gear, a head torch for finding the toilets in the dark, and extra camera batteries. July can be hot in the day but chilly at night so pack sun lotion, warm hat and fleece.