Wonderfilled Magazine
LUXEMBOURG CITY
CITY STATS COUNTRY: The Grand Duchy of Luxembourg POPULATION: 107, 000 GOVERNMENT: Grand Duchy/Constitutional Monarchy (This means the Grand Duke is the head of state) LANGUAGE(S): French, German, Luxembourgish CURRENCY: Euro
illustration by Lynn Cosyn
FEATURES VOLUME FOUR
22
CULINARY CONVERSATIONS
41
PROST! BEER IN LUXEMBOURG
44
LA CUCINA ITALINA IN THE GRAND DUCHY
50
ART ROOMS
58
BOUNEWEGER COMEBACK
68
HAIRKO EVERY ISSUE 3 Map 11 Editor’s letter 12 Contributors
76
BEN & PEPPER
84
16 Perfect Day
MELUSINA
38 Happy Hour
92
72 Style Profile 96 City Guide 99 Sister City
A STROLL IN LUXEMBOURG CITY
press play ...and enjoy the sweet sounds of Luxembourg, as curated by Nicolas Palumbo of Go By Brooks.
1. Obey, Go By Brooks 2. About to Go, Tuys 3. Believe it or not, Surf Cowboys 4. The Golden City, Eternal Tango 5. Happy in My Treehouse, dream catcher 6. All This Time (feat. Sarah Bettens), Daniel Balthasar 7. Fade Into The Sun, Fox 8. Silence, My Own Ghost 9. The Long Loud Silence, Mutiny On The Bounty 10. Killer Machine, Porn Queen
TEAM WONDERFILLED KELLEY ENGELBRECHT Co-Founder & Editor-in-Chief JULIA ENGELBRECHT Co-Founder JOE PERKINS Copy Editor
ON THE COVER Luxembourg’s Golden Lady, the iconic GÍlle Fra, elegantly watches over the bustling city center from her perch in Constituion Square. The monument opened in 1923, a tribute to the Luxembourgers who volunteered for service in World War I. With the German occupation in 1940, she was dismantled. Unaccounted for until 1980, she was found hidden beneath the main stand of the national football stadium. The Golden Lady was restored to her original glory in 1985 and now honor soldiers from both World Wars and the Korean War.
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photo by Natalie Schwager
hello! Lovely little Luxembourg – so many things to say about a country so small. As one of the capitals of the European Union and a global finance giant, often the culture of Luxembourg gets glossed over by big numbers and geographical confusion (don’t worry – you’re not the first to think it was a city in Germany). But if you ask me, this city, this country, is a bastion of culture, nuanced by its unique history and population. But before we dive into that – and trust me, you’ll get your fair amount of cultural backstory – I’d be remiss not to mention my connection with Luxembourg. In my early twenties I had the pleasure of living in the Grand Duchy. It was as magical and formative as you could imagine. I lived in a chateau near the French border and found myself at the cross section of culture, working with Luxembourgers, Germans & French, eating at Portuguese restaurants and frequenting the Italian grocer. To me, that’s one of the best parts of Luxembourg – the vibrant mixing of culture. In this issue, you’ll see a wide range of ideas: a vegan yoga teacher takes us around town, a French scholar romances the traditional food of Luxembourg, a Polish designer brings British design sensibilities to the city center, and that’s just the beginning. For most travelers crossing Europe, it’s easy to make Luxembourg just another train station. My hope is that if you find yourself in this little Grand Duchy, you’ll take a moment to soak it in and discover something new.
editor photo by Natalie Gerhardstein
CONTRIBUTORS THIERRY LETERRE
LYNN COSYN
WRITER
ILLUSTRATOR
NATALIE GERHARDSTEIN
JASON HALLIDAY
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHER
CORDULA SCHNEUR
NATALIE SCHWAGER
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHER
KELSEY HOPPER
MEGAN LEIGH BARNARD
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHER
ALEXANDRE OTTO
MARTI BABCOCK
WRITER
STYLIST
photo by Natalie Schwager
@guideluxembourg
@velvet.billy
@mine0las
@luc_gilles
#DAILYWONDER A daily dose of inspiration from a few of our favorite Luxembourg instagrammers
@janette_magazine
@kinlake
@noraschi
@thegreencreator
Show us your everyday lovelies with #DAILYWONDER and you could be in our next issue!
THE PERFECT DAY Since American yoga instructor Kelsey Hopper moved to Luxembourg five years ago, she’s noticed an increased awareness in all things wellness and self-care. Here is her perfect day to treat-yourself and indulge body, mind and soul.
9AM Start the day with a meditative walk around the old fortress. (I like to do mine with a travel mug of matcha green tea!) Begin at NEUMÜNSTER ABBEY in the Grund (one of Luxembourg City’s five valleys). There you will find the Alzette River, where Melusina the mermaid is rumored to reside. Get lost on one of the many paths or make your way up the valley to the center of town.
10AM Head to PLACE GUILLAUME where the farmers’ market will be in full swing. My favorite stand is CO-LABOR, a company that employs people with disabilities and criminal records. Most of the fruits and vegetables at the market are organic, always fresh and
Place Guillaume
beautifully displayed. 10:30AM After perusing the farmers’ market head to BEET, a hip new vegetarian restaurant for a coffee, tea, or chili hot cocoa. The beautiful industrial minimalistic decor provides a great Zen atmosphere that matches the cozy comfort of the food.
Neumünster Abbey 11AM Next door is VISLAVIE. Go here for a beauty treatment with all organic, natural products. I love the pedicures! 12PM Now that you’re relaxed, head over to LENELIFE on Avenue Marie-Thérèse for a delicious vegetarian meal. This place can accommodate any dietary restriction and still leave you very satisfied. Soy-free, gluten-free, nut free, lactose free, low sugar, raw food, vegan—she can do anything and it tastes good! My all-time favorite dish is the gluten free lactose free quiche. Definitely order dessert.
@beet_luxembourg
@knopescoffee
1PM Down the street is ROBIN DU LAC, an interesting restaurant that sells furniture and knick-knacks. Next door, you can grab an almond milk latte at CAFE KNOPES while you watch them roast their coffee beans in their artisanal factory. 3PM After that, head towards the train station all the way to AMAPURA, a beautiful store with every wellness product you can think of. Neti pots, natural toothbrushes, skin oils, essential oils, incense, natural perfume, natural makeup - you name it she has it. Pitu, the lady who runs the store, is a sweet caring soul. She will happily help you find whatever product you’re looking for, while offering great advice on natural remedies for any ailment. 4PM From Amapura walk over to A MAGICAL BUTTERFLY on rue de Strasbourg. This hidden gem is in an apartment building and sometimes difficult to find. Once inside, you’ll discover a beautiful space devoted to wellness. Schedule Reiki with Anna, or a foot reflexology session.
Kelsey Hopper Yoga
6:30PM Stick around a little longer and join the EVENING YOGA CLASS with me (Kelsey Hopper Yoga, in association with Clare Marie Pilates and Wellness.) Unwind, disconnect and get back in touch with yourself at the end of a long day. It’s pretty magical, if I do say so! 8:00PM After your workout, head over to MESA VERDE, one of my favorite vegetarian restaurants. Enjoy the beautiful colorful murals on the walls, as well as the massive delicious salads. 10:00PM Right next to Mesa Verde is GUDDE WELLEN where you can attend a concert by the Grund Club, comprised of local Luxembourgish singer-songwriters. If you don’t want the party to stop, continue on a romantic walk down to the Grund where you will find VINS FINS, a cozy little wine shop to end your night on a reflective and peaceful note.
photo by Megan Leigh Barnard
FOOD Get a taste of the city
Culinary Conversations by Thierry Leterre | photos by Kelley Engelbrecht
To appreciate how seriously food is taken in Luxembourg, just listen to the Luxembourgish national anthem. Four verses in, a vibrant praise of the heavenly wine of the Moselle leaves no doubt about how high the pleasures of table rank in the national culture. Not even the French, with their world-recognized vineyards, have dared put wine in their national song. And Luxembourg shamelessly and respectfully thanks God for it.
two philsophies of food In trilingual Luxembourg, everything starts with a conversation, usually a multilingual one. Food in Luxembourg City is no exception. Like many things in the Grand Duchy, food is an encounter between German and French traditions, summarized in the popular saying: “French quality, German proportions”. Eat well and eat a lot. But make no mistake: food in Luxembourg City is not just French, German or Luxembourgish per se. Even if another popular Luxembourgish saying attests that “too many cooks spoil the soup”, the variety of options in terms of food culture is considerable. Luxembourg City, a small capital city by international standards is an incredibly diverse place with nearly two-third of its population being foreigners with over 155 different citizenships. With such an array of origins, it is not surprising that Luxembourg City has become a sort of cuisine Tower of Babel where customers happily indulge in the confusion of tongues. What remains from the French and German traditions is more a philosophical inspiration about what it means to eat. The French notion takes food seriously, as a work of art to enjoy socially over long meals; for the German, food must not only seduce the palate but also fill the stomach.
the social scene Luxembourg City is an exceptional urban spot in a country that often represents itself as the heir of peasants’ times. As such it is so uniquely different: it is open to the influence of the world, but keeps close to the roots of the country. The discrepancy is easily noted in a curious social habit about going out. Luxembourg City is one of the rare places in the world where people dine out at a different time from when they eat at home. Americans tend to eat their dinner early, both at home and at restaurants. The French eat late by comparison, between 7 and 9pm, or even 10pm in Paris. In Luxembourg City (more so than in other parts of the country) private and social hours of dinner are disconnected. People have dinner around 7pm at home, but they rarely eat out before 8 pm; 9pm is a socially acceptable hour to reserve a table. In a country where the rhythm of social life is still rigid and adheres to the idea that there are set times to do things—work, shop, eat—this amounts to a slightly uncomfortable situation for tourists. Stores in the city close at 6pm, but one has to wait a good hour and half to go to a restaurant that keeps the traditional opening hours. Bars offer an interesting scene, keeping the European tradition—from English and Irish Pubs to German Beer Gardens and French cafés—of a meeting place where drinking is only one part, and not the center, of social exchanges. It is also a good place to enjoy the most fabulous aspect of Luxembourgish life, the constant switching of languages between people. The anglophone visitor realizes fast enough that they are just one little welcomed add-on to the constant and moving mix of tongues in a country that puts the art of multilingual conversing before the art of eating and drinking.
Ancien Cinéma Café Club
the restaurants Luxembourg City has no shortage of good restaurants, four having been distinguished with a Michelin star. I will make a passing remark about the Bergamote located in the residential area of Belair, because it is a remarkable place for French food. But the simplest is to go a curious place entirely dedicated to food, the ilot gastronomique—literally translated as the Gastronomic Island. Located in a beautifully restored house from the 18th century in the old fish market area behind the Grand-Ducal palace, the ilot gastronomique shelters a series of restaurants. The upper hand is held by the Bouquet Garni, which offers an unmistakably French cuisine. Its manager, Thierry Duhr, made some noise in the world of cuisine when he renounced his Michelin star two years ago. Two stories above, the Goethe Stuff offers a more affordable and simpler approach of good food with its Alsacian specialties of sauerkraut and Flammeküeche (the best though horrendously simplified way to describe a Flammeküeche is to simply say that it is the Germanic version of a pizza with the thinnest crust). The name of the restaurant commemorates the stay of the great philosopher, writer and state man Goethe in Luxembourg. As regards to “stuff ” (to be pronounced stoof) it originally meant the common room in a rural dwelling and is used both in Germany (stube) and in Alsace (stub) to denote restaurants featuring traditional food. Between the Bouquet Garni and the Goethe Stuff, both in terms of location and price is Am Tiirmschen (“The Turret” in Luxembourgish) where traditional Luxembourgish food is found at its best. It is typically Luxembourgish also in the sense that the menu has not only local dishes but includes excursions to South-West France with foie gras or Italy with campi or seafood risotto. Am Tiirmschen must be also praised for its serious selection of Luxembourgish wines. The staff takes pride in it as I discovered with a heated discussion with the attendant over red Luxembourgish wines, which I have never found at the level of their white ones. As I said, one cannot escape conversing in Luxembourg. Exchanges are usually cordial., but nevertheless I should have known better than criticize (even in a private conversation) the heavenly wine of the Moselle River.
Kwafe Brasserie
luxembourgish food By the way, what are the typical dishes of Luxembourg? Some food habits such as the consumption of horsemeat, denote the heritage of factory workers — for a long time the steel industry was the sole source of Luxembourgish prosperity. The traditional chopped raw beefsteak seasoned with onions, eggs and pickles is another example. Amusingly enough, it is called Filet Américain or American filet, though modern Americans might not so willingly place raw meat at the top of their culinary preferences. Typical Luxembourgish dishes are inherited from peasant cooking. It is the case with kniddelen, or old-fashioned dumplings. Other emblematic dishes include judd mat gardebounen (smoked pork with beans), bouneschlupp (traditional soup of beans and smoked sausage) and, my personal favorite, feierstengszalot. With a beautiful name (firestones salad), it is tasty cold beef meat thinly cut with eggs, pickles and seasoned with a mustard vinaigrette. Luxembourgers share with the neighboring French region of Lorraine the specialty dish, bouchée à la reine, a savory puff pastry filled with stewed chicken and mushrooms in a creamy white sauce. They share with their German neighbors the taste for sausages, which come in two main kinds, smoked mettwurst and a white veal meat sausage, that is now referred to as grillwurst, grillinger, or even—with a grain of irony—as a luxringer. The topic of sausage introduces to another dimension of food in Luxembourg: the quality of its street food where the local equivalent to hot dogs, grillwurst or mettwurst are prominently featured. Street food is usually associated with the many festivals that take place all year round, from the Easter’s Éimaischen to the Christmas markets. Beyond sausages and fries, Luxembourgers particularly favor the potato cake, the Gromperekichelcher. The extraordinary truth about street food in Luxembourg is that it carries its own version of French quality and German proportions: what is eaten is clearly of German inspiration, but what is drunk is the epitome of French distinction. Luxembourg is probably the only country in the world where it is possible to enjoy street food with sparkling wine, or crémant in Luxembourg. This alliance of sound food and refined drinks is a combination not to be missed. And there I’ll end, in this city, where food, like the national anthem, tells us “there is no empty dream.” d
all recipe photos by Megan Leigh Barnard
Stumble upon any festival or neighborhood party in Luxembourg and chances are you’ll find these deep fried potato pancakes, served with a side of apple sauce. Pair with your favorite pilsner (we recommend Luxembourgish Bofferding, of course).
Gromperekichelcher
Bouneschlupp One of the most traditional dishes of Luxembourg, Bouneschlupp, or green bean soup, is flavorful, hearty and perfect for chilly days. .
G rom p e r e k ich e lcher MAKES 6-10 INGREDIENTS 1 lb russet potaotes (4-5) 1 onion, chopped 1 shallot, chopped Handful of parsley, chopped. 2 eggs Flour Oil for frying PREPARATION Peel potatoes and roughly grate using a standard cheese grater. Place in a cloth and press out all excess water. Mix well with onion, shallot and parsley. Add eggs and enough flour to thicken the mixture, so it holds shape. Heat 1 inch of oil in a large skillet. Make the potato mixture into balls and flatten out. Fry in the oil until both sides are golden brown. Place on a plate with enough paper towels to drain excess oil. Serve hot with apple sauce!
Add leeks, try celery or (if you’re feeling very European), experiment with celeriac. SERVES 5 INGREDIENTS 1 lb green beans, hulled and sliced ½ onion, chopped 2 russet potatoes, diced 3/4 lb smoked bacon, diced 2 tbsp unsalted butter 6 cups water 1/3 cup crème fraiche Salt & pepper to taste PREPARATION Over medium heat, melt butter and fry the bacon. Add the onions, sautéing until soft. Season with salt & pepper. Add the green beans and water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 45 minutes. Add potatoes. Let simmer until the potatoes have softened. Add crème fraiche. Check seasoning and adjust accordingly. Serve hot with a slice of hearty brown bread.
Bo u n e s ch lup p
Feiersténgszalot
This delicious dish is best decribed as a meat salad, dressed with a flavorful vinaigrette. Serve with a lightly dressed escarole salad and roasted potatoes. Gudden appetit! Serves 4
INGREDIENTS 1 ½ lb rump roast (or another cut of beef that’s tough) 2 shallots, chopped 2 hard-boiled eggs, thinly sliced 7 cornichons, thinly sliced VINAIGRETTE ½ c. sunflower oil 3 ½ tbsp. red wine vinegar ½ tbsp. mustard 2 sprigs of parsley, chopped 1 sprig of tarragon, chopped 5 chives, chopped freshly ground salt & pepper 3 tbsp. crème frache (optional)
PREPARE THE MEAT Fill a slow cooker with 1-2 cups of water, and slow cook the beef for 3 hours on low. Cut the meat, warm or cold, into small pieces. MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE: whisk together the oil, vinegar, mustard and crème fraiche. Season with salt and pepper. Add herbs and mix together. COMBINE Mix together the meat, shallots, eggs and pickles. Add the vinaigrette and mix together so everything is well dressed. Let marinate for at least an hour before serving.
HAPPY HOUR photos by Kelley Engelbrecht
THE PLACE: Chocolate House THE DRINK: Amaretto Macaroons Choco Spoon GO HERE IF you’re looking for a Hogwarts-style Honeydukes with a great view of the Ducal Palace. Pick your favorite choco spoon, dunk it in hot milk and stir to create a decadent drink. While you’re at it, pick out a slice of cake or any other deliciously sugary confection.
s o r P by Kelley Engelbrecht | photos provided by Bofferding
! t s
A nation’s largest brewery with microbrewing tendencies: a contradiction in most situations, but not in Luxembourg. With Bofferding Brewery, the juxtaposition not only exists, but thrives.
Current CEO (and 9th generation brewer) Georges Lentz will be the first to tell you that
18th century Luxembourgish breweries were significantly different than those of our contemporary era.
In 1764, Bofferding Brewery was formed in the valley of the Alzette River, near the foothills of the rolling Arden Mountains before large volume mash tuns and stainless steel fermentation tanks . Picture instead a large kitchen, more akin to modern home-brewing setups, making small batch beers until the turn of the century and the advent of industrialization. Until recently, the notion of independent breweries as we know it was rare. In America, the history of beer mirrors that of most commercial packaged goods: low cost, large volume, and consistent (if not rather bland) output. Quantity, not quality, has reigned supreme in order to reach the masses. In Luxembourg, however, the spirit of independent brewering - rooted in history & culture – has kept Bofferding close to home. Taking a stroll down the boulevards of Luxembourg City, it’s hard to ignore the brilliant kelly green awnings boasting the Bofferding crest. Yet, as distinctive as their branding appears, for 45% of the population – those nonLuxembourgish nationals - it doesn’t go very far. “Coming from Denmark, where they have Carlsberg, or Germany where they have Beck’s, we wanted the secret of Bofferding for us. For Luxembourg.” says Georges, reflecting on their unofficial tagline, le secret du Luxembourg, or the secret of Luxembourg (from which one of their most famous advertising campaign was born). It’s a secret that finds its roots in the pub culture so prevalent throughout the country of Luxembourg. The capital city, with the largest population, is very different from the smaller hamlets that dot the countryside. But, no matter, the concept is the same - be it a small town with one bar or an urban center with hundreds, the pub is the cultural hub of the community, a meeting house of sorts where ideas are exchanged over a glass or two of an establishment’s finest.
“We believe in quality, family and Luxembourg.” - Georges Lentz
With this in mind, Georges contests that beer is an emotional product held proud by Luxembourgish natives, and thus Bofferding takes its production quite seriously. Their signature brew, a Lager Pils, is brewed (as with all their beers) according to Europe’s Truity Law using water, malt, hops, yeast, and no pasteurization. Light and refreshing, it’s the drinkability that sets Bofferding apart. “You could drink one or two, and you could still drink another. Quality is key.” You won’t find these brilliant green bottles just anywhere. For the time being, the Grand Duchy is the only country to serve the secret of Luxembourg, save for a few select, smaller markets in the U.S. Their goal remains the same as it was in 1764 - to stay local to the loyalists that appreciate the emotional pull of a cold Bofferding: “We believe in quality, family and Luxembourg,” muses Georges. And loyal Luxembourg believes in Bofferding.d
beyond beer Among the nine grapes grown in this region - Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, GewĂźrztraminer, Auxerrois, Rivaner, Elbling and Chardonnay - Ebling and Rivaner play the role of a table wine that is pleasant, simple and extremely cheap. Pinot Gris is a refined dry white wine. Special attention must be paid to the Auxerois, a fruity wine with different degrees of dryness depending on the maker. The Rieslings are also remarkable. Unlike the German tradition, Luxembourgish Rieslings are often worked to bring down the sweetness of the grape and offer a spectacular taste; the sugars present a subtle undertone rather than an overwhelming note. Of course, CrĂŠmant, sparkling wine, is regarded as the best of the best and legitimately so. The preeminence of white wines leaves aside the delicate issue of red wine. There are indeed very good reds in Luxembourg, mostly Pinot Noir. There is also a fairly average production, far more average and far more costly than white wines. Ultimately, the question is about the price: is it reasonable to pay the same for a nice bottle of red as you could a spectacular Luxembourgish white? - Thierry Leterre | photo by Megan Leigh Barnard
article & photos by Natalie Gerhardstein I met Valentina Quaranta the way I most like meeting people: organically. What I thought would be one quick drink with mutual friends and Valentina turned into a two-hour discussion, all over a cafe table balanced over cobblestones in a quiet corner of Luxembourg City. Today when I visit Valentina (Vale, for short), we’re together at a table again—only this time in her flat, where she’s kneading a large ball of dough and teaching me how to make orecchiette. Together we roll thin logs of dough, and she teaches me how to cut them into sections just large enough for the pasta, which gets its name from the Italian words for “small ears”. And it takes time to get the shape of those “small ears” just right, as she teaches me: “You hold the butter knife like this,” she says, gliding the knife’s dull tip to flatten each side of the piece of dough. “Then you flip it off your fingertip,” she says, peeling it off. Vale is in her normal uniform—part punk, always chic— only this time her black shirt has some flour on it from working with the dough.
9
La C
Cucina Italiana IN THE GRAND DUCHY
The pasta will be added with turnip tops, olive oil, garlic and some anchovies to create a dish typical in Puglia known as orrichiette alla cime di rapa although, as Vale points out, “There is a big difference in the taste of dishes here than in Italy. In Puglia, farmers sell the turnip tops on roadsides out of an autorickshaw. The greens there taste stronger.” To me, the taste is full of flavor, hearty—and even more exciting to taste, knowing our own hands have made the pasta. In addition to the pasta, Vale has made roasted eggplants and vegetables and panelle—a fried concoction of chickpea flour, parsley and salt, which has a surprisingly light taste when fresh lemon is squeezed on top. “Food is life,” she tells me. “It’s a way to be creative. I like it because everyone likes it, and it’s a way to spend time with friends. Eating and chatting is so important because it can unify people and cultures.” Vale’s philosophy to cooking extends to her blog, which she started in November 2014, partly because she found herself without work in the Grand Duchy. A graphic designer by training, she had always loved cooking, experimenting with Italian classics while being open to new cultural influences. In her hometown of Acireale, a coastal town in Sicily, one typical dish is pasta alla norma (made with tomatoes, fried eggplant and ricotta cheese). Being lactose intolerant, Vale has challenged herself to make new dishes— recently she tried, for example, making a risotto with leek, raddichio, and soy cream. “Even my mother, who normally doesn’t like radicchio, ate two bowls of it!” she says, laughing. On the blog, titled F40D (a play on her last name which translates in Italian to “forty”), she has also incorporated Luxembourgish specialities like Gromperekichelcher or soups using more Middle Eastern spices. “I’ve been using a lot of curcuma lately,” she says. “It’s even good for sweet dishes.” On Facebook, her blog has been steadily growing. Now at over 700 followers, she has been approached by an Italian food company to work with their products. Future plans for her site include working with a friend to create a cocktail section of the website and offer translations in English and French. For now, Vale said people can submit their own recipes through F40D’s Facebook page or try recipes from the blog. d
CRAFT Meet the movers and the makers
article & photos by Cordula Schneur On the fourth floor of an apartment building on Luxembourg City’s Avenue de la Liberté lies ArtRooms – a shared space where artists, designers and entrepreneurs bring to life their ideas. Painter Ben Carter co-founded the project six years ago, transforming the flat into a creative hub in the heart of the capital. Ben originally hails from the UK and first came to Luxembourg as a teenager, visiting his parents, who were living and working in the Grand Duchy, during boarding school holidays. Already back then he had a passion for painting, a passion that would eventually turn into a successful career. In his 20s, as a young artist, Ben decided to make Luxembourg his permanent home, taking his painting to his parents’ garage. But he soon wanted to move forward with his career and began searching for his own studio space.
“The real estate agency I was working with came back to me with this flat,” Ben explained. With six rooms, however, it was far too big for one person, and far too expensive. The idea to share the space with other young artists looking to establish themselves was born. “I met with the owner, who loves the arts, and explained to her what I wanted to do with the place. She told me to go for it. We came to an agreement about the rent and I took the place without having any artists,” Ben recalled. “She gave me a grace period of a couple of months, which was really kind of her, to find the people and get it going.” Living, dining and bedrooms were thus converted into workshops, offices and showrooms. But more than just offering a shared space, Ben wanted ArtRooms to be a place where the tenants could exchange ideas, give each other feedback on their work, share contacts and help each other along the way. Initially, six artists shared the space, one for each room, but over the years the number of people working at ArtRooms has grown and many of the creatives decided to share. Despite the buzz of one of Luxembourg City’s main traffic arteries below, ArtRooms is remarkably quiet. With its high ceilings and hardwood floors the apartment has a vintage feel to it, a bit of charming patina in all the right places, with each room offering its own distinct atmosphere. While Ben’s studio is filled with paint, paintings, prints, sculpture models and works in progress, the other doors each reveal their own little world. The 200m2 property at the start of 2016 was home to beetles & bugs, a children’s fashion, design and toy boutique; Cascais Copenhagen, which specializes in children and women’s wear; jeweller Ena Ethelberg Design; graphic design studio, Confetti Graphics; ceramic atelier Nordic Stella; and interior design label, Fabric. One room was lying vacant awaiting a new artist to join the ArtRooms community, but a number of applicants were already vying for the spot. “It’s about finding someone who fits in with the place, who brings a vibe and an energy to ArtRooms,” Ben explained. “You never quite know how long people are going to stay, but we certainly encourage everyone to stay for as long as they want.” The turnover is quite low. Over the course of six years only six people have decided to move on. The majority settle down for several years at least. “Once they’re in, they like it.”
Going into its seventh year, the success of ArtRooms is also a tribute to the community that Ben has managed to build around it. “We’re not doing it for a profit, we just want to break even on our expenses,” the 39-yearold explained. At the same time, he would like to keep growing the idea, “to get more support, a bit more recognition.” Since starting ArtRooms, Ben Carter has become something of a household name on the Luxembourg art scene. In 2013 he was commissioned by the Luxembourg City mayor’s office to design an official stamp celebrating the 20th anniversary of being named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Luxembourg has become something of a trademark in Ben’s work, with his paintings showing different vistas of Luxembourg and its landmarks. More recently, the artist has started working with steel, a nod to the country’s industrial past and present. Only just recently, he completed a commission by multinational steel manufacturer ArcelorMittal, headquartered in Luxembourg. For the end of the year, he is preparing a new exhibition featuring his steel-inspired work. Yet, despite having come a long way, Ben has no intention of giving up on the creative community he has assembled on Avenue de la Liberté. “If I lost ArtRooms, I’d be devastated,” he said, standing in his studio looking over the apartment’s rooftop terrace. “I hope to be here for a long time to come.” d
Bouneweger Comeback article & photos by Kelley Engelbrecht mural photos by Anne Mélan
In the bustling neighborhood of Bonnevoie, situated behind the train station in Luxembourg City, is a colorful corner bar called Bouneweger Stuff. Aptly named (translation: “Bonnevoie’s Living Room”), it’s the perfect place to grab a cafe in the morning or a beer after work. Cozy couches, surrounded by warmly painted walls, are nestled into the corners; well-portioned plates of fries & salads are placed on wooden tables in front of eager customers. A gentle din of casual conversation accents the welcoming scene. For owner Bernard Michaux, this is exactly how he had envisioned it: a neighborhood spot that could facilitate the meeting of minds over good food and drink. Michaux’s is a noble, yet perhaps common goal. Make no mistake, however; Bouneweger Stuff is anything but common. In fact, one could argue this subtle tavern – inconspicuously settled at the intersection of old and new – is completely unique to Luxembourg City, offering an ambiance not found anywhere else in the world. To truly understand Bouneweger Stuff, we need a backstory – a backstory that begins with a homecoming. Freshly returned from a stint in Berlin working as a film producer, Michaux was preparing to create a new sitcom for Radio Télévision Luxembourg (the national broadcasting station of Luxembourg). While happy to be home, Michaux found himself reflecting on his time abroad – more specifically, on Germany’s bustling social scene & the variety of establishments Berlin had to offer. Back home in Luxembourg,
k
Jeu des Quilles Jeu des Quilles is a traditional Luxembourgish bar game, most similar to bowling. The bowling ball is smaller, with no holes; the narrow lane gets wider near the pins, arranged in a diamond shape. Locally it’s called the grandpa release - perhaps a wink at some generational stereotypes?
large events spaces with lively cover bands had become the socialization du jour in the city; Michaux just knew there had to be an attractive niche market still waiting to be filled. A friend from Brussels (who had once expressed interest in owning a bar) had just come to town and when Michaux presented his grand idea. Could he somehow marry an idea for a sitcom with his dream of owning a bar? The plan was simple: along with his friend & businesspartner, Michaux would take the plunge. They would purchase a bar, develop a script, and shoot a sitcom that would… you guessed it… take place within the bar. This wasn’t a groundbreaking idea, of course – neighborhood taverns have long-been used as classic TV show fodder. What set his idea apart was that Michaux’s bar would not operate as a closed set. Instead, it would remain open & fully functional to the community. First things first, however – the duo needed to find a bar to not only serve as the perfect backdrop for the script, but also one that had an ideal location for business. In Bonnevoie, they found it. On the corner of Rue du Cimetiere and Rue Pierre Krier, sat an old empty bar. The building was available; the neighborhood was cheap. And as Michaux has admitted, he “had always dreamed of owning a corner bar.” It was nearly perfect. Along with the usual nerves associated with any new business venture, Michaux was also concerned about the location. “No one went out in Bonnevoie. We weren’t sure if it would be a good place, but there was so much potential! For a long time it’s been the cheapest place to live in
Luxembourg City, so it pulled in a lot of young people from the university and foreigners who moved to the city.” Even so, they took the gamble. With a location secured, they started crafting their story. The sitcom (named Comeback) would be about a washed-up singer from the 80s, and his attempts to get into a Eurovision song contest with the help of three younger friends. For Michaux, it was important to authenticate the story - to create a genuine voice that would lend a sense of credibility. From the beginning, they experimented with cross-media promotion, even producing a viral video to bring a new dimension to the story. (Google “Ronny Riff ” - you’ll see what we’re talking about.) Comeback was filmed over the course of six months. On Mondays, they’d shoot at the bar; then on Tuesdays, in the apartment above. Wednesdays were saved for any off-site needs. Then on Fridays, Michaux would open the bar for a public viewing party. Patrons wouldn’t just watch the show, however - they’d give feedback in real-time over a pint or two of Bofferding beer. And at home, they’d to share thoughts on social media. Before long, Comeback had become a truly collaborative experience. Upon reflection, Michaux admits they could only use 20-30% of the feedback received weekly. Yet still, by the time the show was over, their vocal audience had created something greater than a traditional sitcom. They had created a community. The corner bar had become the neighborhood bar, not only figuratively portrayed on screen, but tangibly so within this tiny block, sandwiched between the colorful buildings of Bonnevoie. Today, if you stop by Bouneweger Stuff, you’ll find a cozy mix of patrons: artists and intellectuals side-by-side with blue-collared workers from across the city. “The idea has always been to create a bar that’s the best place to find ideas. There are no concerts & not a lot of special events - it’s easy, relaxed and a place where you can discuss ideas,” reflects Michaux. As the early evening light begins to slowly creep in, empty coffee mugs are replaced with full pints being passed around the bar. In the back room, a traditional Jeu des Quilles is ready for a little friendly competition. And if you didn’t know any better, you’d think you had just stepped into the set of your favorite television show. d
Luxembourgish artist Anne Melan is the creative force behind the impressive chalk mural behind Bouneweger Stuff ’s bar. Moustachioed gentlemen converse while a wiley rabbit looks on, in a style inspired by turn-of-the-century German artist Otto Dix. Growing up in the oldest part of the city, now a UNESCO Heritage Site, Anne has been surrounded by impressive details her entire life, something that is reflected in her work. A freelance artist since 2010, Anne counts Salvador Dali as her artistic idol and portraiture as her passion. Her illustrations can be found throughout Luxembourg – on posters, in murals and magazines, and next school year, in textbooks.
POSTER GIRL In 2011, Anne’s poster submission for the Schueboerfour Luxembourg’s biggest festival - came in 2nd place, launching her freelance career.
MURAL IN THE CITY Namur, one of Luxembourg’s most famous pastery shops, recently commissioned Anne to transform their garage door. In the center of town, the mural is based off an original watercolor, also painted by Anne.
HARIKO article & photos by Alexandre Otto
In an afternoon, on a cloudy tempered day, a discrete gathering of creativity is happening at Hariko. The building looks as humble as can be from the outside, in a calm neighborhood. A sincere and judicious reception awakens to a colorful and mysterious wonder. A visit brings the instant desire to explore more, wondering what goes on behind the many doors and along the expressive walls, filled with character and art. A search for Marianne, the principal organizer of this project, leads down a hall into an artist’s haven. Wonder and enchantment arise as one may discover the many mysteries of this unique site. After being guided towards an office by a friendly face, Marianne appears from the stairway. We discuss some details concerning the project and it’s objectives. Youths between the ages of 12-26 are welcomed during most hours of the day. Creativity, as a way to express diversity and emotion to help with past difficulties, is one of the main objectives of Hariko. Resident artists are in a situation to donate their time and effort to the visitors, and in return are able to have time for their own practice. Demonstrating a true motivation to help is one of the main criteria to be a part of the Hariko team. Creativity, wonder, diversity and emotion work together for a common and greater good. Hariko demonstrates a sincere effort as it paves its way to being a unique artistic and humanitarian project of its kind. Events are planned in the coming months, as Hariko’s promising mysteries continue to unfold. d
darling dishes by Lynn Cosyn
DESIGN Experience the aesthetic
STYLE PROFILE
As told to Kelley Engelbrecht photos provided by Lynn Cosyn
Lynn Cosyn
Lynn Cosyn, the artist behind the creative studio Cosymore, finds inspiration all around her resulting in unique illustrations that never fail to bring a smile. The same could be said about her own personal style - a confluence of old and new, that results in a whimsical chicness that’s all her own.
Since I was a little girl, creating something with my hands has always been a satisfying feeling. The process of making, whether crafting, building or drawing, puts me in a happy and relaxed mood, like meditation. Focusing on something these days can really be big challenge. COSYMORE is my personal output of my creations. It started as a DIY-blog and is turning into a creative studio focusing on illustrations. I get my inspiration from daily life. It can be a photograph, a conversation, a walk, a picture, truly anything. I also love being inspired by old vintage books from my mom and everything related to coziness. I like keeping things whimsical and simple. The legs and arms of animals and human beings are mostly just drawn as lines, which reminds me of my childhood drawings. I was born in Luxembourg and have lived here ever since. Thanks to the international atmosphere in this tiny little country and the chance to meet people from all over the world, your mind can really be opened to new ideas. The only thing I’m missing is more spaces for creative people to meet, exchange and showcase their work. My aesthetic is very eclectic. Due to my architecture background, I love clean lines and natural materials, such as wood. But I’m mixing it up with different pieces I discover in thrift shops or flea-markets. Visional calmness and a warm, inviting and cozy atmosphere are very important to me. Combining new and old is what makes the eclectic mix perfect.
Go-to outfit: My go-to outfit is mostly a combination of VINTAGE TREASURES and NEW PIECES. During summer I love wearing my VINTAGE DRESSES from a second-hand shop in Paris. During winter, essential pieces are my BLOUSES WITH DOTS (yes... I love dots) with BLACK JEANS and a BLACK HAT.
In my make-up bag: A COLORFUL LIPSTICK from Mac. I love the color Rebel! BLACK MASCARA from Benefit called “They’re real.” CORALISTA BLUSH from Benefit TINTED MOISTURIZER from Laura Mercier.
Favorite places to shop in Luxembourg: For fashion, I have to admit that I tend to shop abroad, mostly in SECOND-HAND SHOPS in Gent, Antwerpen or Amsterdam. As a creative mind my favorite shop are where I always find something useful and get a lot of inspiration. Craft shops such as BASTELKISTE (crafting box in Luxembourgish) and STEINHÄUSER. Here you can get all sorts of drawing materials—a real paradise for crafters and artists.
BEN &
by Kelley Engelbrecht |
& PEPPER
| photos by Jason Holliday
In Luxembourg’s city center, amid the hustle and bustle of everyday life, sits a small shop filled with curiosities. Ben and Karolina, owners of the eponymous brand Ben & Pepper (Pepper is Ben’s nickname for Karolina), have carved out a little space of their own within the Luxembourg design community. Eccentric and eclectic, their aesthetic reverberates with British influences while staying rooted in Luxembourgish folklore, a dichotomy that reflects their own journey. Ben, who is Luxembourgish, met the Polish Karolina while they were living in the United Kingdom. As artists, they shared similar design sensibilities in their respective fields. With a background in textiles and photography, Karolina found collaborating with Ben, a graphic designer, very organic and natural: “Our journey started with experimentation and fun, really, a long time ago.” Designing smaller objects for birthday gifts and experimenting with various techniques, they began to build a platform for their work. When they moved back to Ben’s native Luxembourg six years ago, this translated into a small storefront in the city. “Ben imported me!” declared Karolina, laughing.
Ben and Karolina noticed that there were no small concept boutique stores like the ones they had frequented in the U.K. Simultaneously, Karolina was growing frustrated with the lack of well designed Luxembourg-focused gifts that she could send home to her family. With a learn-asthey-went attitude, they dove in head first and opened Ben & Pepper. While the name is a clear nod to the owners, it also reflects the balance that they strive to achieve in their aesthetics. “We always try to search for a balance of the universes when we each create. While Ben likes a slightly edgier and bold approach, my aesthetic it rather quiet and melancholic.�
“We always try to search for a balance of the universes when we each create.” - Karolina
Their designs, with obvious international influences from their time abroad, ultimately speak to the culture of Luxembourg: “Our products are based on certain Luxembourgish folklore, like the language or other things that are dying out that we want to promote,” reflected Karolina. Time has also influenced the evolution of their brand as both Ben and Karolina have grown as artists. Five years ago, the upcycled furniture in their shop would have been upholstered in a statement patchwork of brilliant colors; today, they’re more drawn to the quality of the fabric than the color, choosing a beautiful textile over a loud one. Since opening Ben & Pepper, Karolina has noticed a shift in the creative landscape: “People are moving back, traveling outside of Luxembourg and coming back with lots of inspiration.” And as this landscape changes, there are two designers who will be ready to capture the nuances of this tiny country as it evolves. d
Melusina
From Luxembourg Legend to Hand-Stitched Doll article by Natalie Gerhardstein photos by Duncan Roberts & PopUp Studio One of the most popular legends in Luxembourg involves Count Siegfried, who built the castle Lucilinburhuc (later to become Luxembourg). It is said that as he was hunting one day, he landed in the Alzette Valley, where he heard the most beautiful singing echoing off the rock—and the singing happened to come from Melusina, perched on top of the Roman castle ruins. Unable to get her beauty out of his mind, he went back later to find the girl, day after day, until she finally reappeared. Of course, he asked for her hand in marriage, to which she said yes, but only on two conditions: first, she wanted to stay on her cliff and second, she needed time alone each and every Saturday. The count kept his vows to Melusina—until one day, he decided to peek into the keyhole on a Saturday while she was bathing—and that’s when he noticed her fish-like tail. Betrayed, Melusina returned to the cliff and was never seen again. But, as the legend goes, she is waiting for someone to liberate her from the Alzette River and, until that time comes, she will only show herself once every The Melusina statue, 2015
seven years.
the Doll
The Melusina statue, erected at the end of 2015, is one of the newest additions to Luxembourg City. Although some residents were at first put off by the modern rendition on the Alzette River of the legendary mermaid, with its purple color and geometric shape, DeeDee Ostrowska of Popup Studio likes how different it is. In fact, she has been making her Melusina dolls using unique—often retro—fabrics since 2013, when she was asked to make the first one for a workshop for Lët’z Go Local, a community in the Grand Duchy for local products and services. The dolls were well received. In fact, Luxembourg’s Grand Duchess Maria Teresa even had one custom made for her granddaughter. “A lot of people buy them not just for themselves but also as souvenirs, since it’s not something you would typically find in a tourist shop,” says DeeDee, who hails from Poland but now calls Luxembourg home.
THIS PAGE DeeDee’s Melusina dolls. OPPOSITE PAGE: DeeDee Ostrowska
DeeDee has put a lot of thought into each aspect of the doll, and no two are alike. There are no small pieces that might fall off (into the mouth of a young child, for example), and she prides herself on using the highest quality felt which makes the mermaids softer to the touch. She has put thought into the dolls as a parent herself; she is fascinated with the way babies observe colors and patterns. In fact, her toddler is often one of the first to “test” her toys. But it’s the Melusina dolls’ “sleepy-happy faces”, as DeeDee puts it, which adds to their overall charm. Even though they are popular gifts for children, DeeDee notes that the dolls also have a classic enough look that they can be used for decorations or cushions. The Popup Studio sells the Melusina dolls online, along with a number of other products, including illustrations, toys and prints. d
A STROLL IN
Luxembourg City
photo by Natalie Schwager
photos by Kelley Engelbrecht
THIS PAGE A view of the Grund, one of Luxembourg City’s five valleys. OPPOSITE PAGE Top picture: Les Rotandes, a cultural space & restaurant. Bottom pictures: Luxembourgish mail box, historic homes along the Alzette River.
Wonderfilled Adventure Club How we explored this volume’s featured city.
WHAT WE ATE Burgers at LES ROTANDES Mussels & Fries at AUTRE PART Bacon, Brie & cranberry jam sandwich at CHARLES
Vineyards along the Mosel river
Piles of polaroids
WHAT WE DRANK: Crement at BERNARD MASSARD Reisling at CAFE VIS A VIS
Train station
WHERE WE WENT Luxembourg is a train ride away from so many fun cities - we couldn’t help ourselves!
A quick jaunt to PARIS, FRANCE A day trip to TRIER, GERMANY Parisian street art
CITY GUIDE The Perfect Day NEUMÜNSTER ABBEY 28 Rue Münster BEET 32 Place Guillaume II VISLAVIE 40 Place Guillaume II LENELIFE 5, Avenue Marie-Thérèse ROBIN DU LAC 70 Route d’Esch CAFE KNOPES 70 Route d’Esch AMAPURA 43 rue Goethe A MAGICAL BUTTERFLY 33 Rue de Strasbourg MESA VERDE 11 Rue du St Esprit GUDDE WELLEN 17 Rue du St Esprit VINS FINS 18 Rue Münster
Happy Hour CHOCOLATE HOUSE 20 Rue du Marché-aux-Herbes
Art Rooms ART ROOMS 48 Avenue de la Liberte
Bouneweger Comeback BOUNEWEGER STUFF 1 Rue du Cimetière
Hariko HARIKO 1, Dernier Sol
Style Profile LYNN COSYN Blog>
Ben & Pepper BEN & PEPPER 21 Avenue de la Liberte
Melusina POPUP STUDIO Etsy Shop> photo by Kelley Engelbrecht
METZ, FRANCE sis·ter cit·y (noun): A city that is linked to another to promote peace through mutual respect, understanding, and cooperation, one individual, one community at a time
Luxembourg’s sister city of Metz, France, is just about an hour’s drive from the Grand Duchy’s capital.A city rich with Gallo-Roman history, Metz can also boast since 2010 of having the first Centre Pompidou outside of Paris.While the Centre Pompidou in Paris is immediately recognizable by its industrial look and colorful tubes—each color representing a different building function (blue for climate control, green for plumbing, for example)—the museum in Paris has three stacked boxes, each holding its own gallery. From a distance the museum, designed by the Tokyobased Shigeru Ban along with Jean de Gastines (Paris) and Philip Gumuchdjian (London), resembles a Chinese hat. From now through March 28, 2016, the “Cosa Mentale” exhibition is underway, featuring artistic expressions of telepathy and the metaphysical. It features around 100 works, from Wassily Kandinsky to Sigmar Polke. One series even features drawings by Austria Rudolf Steiner, who helped establish Waldorf education. The exhibition plays with visitors as well, encouraging them to walk through a gallery without images to “guess” what is hidden—surreal to say the least. Metz’s Pompidou represents the first decentralization of the famous museum and has attracted some 1.2 million visitors in the two years following its inauguration. A third version of the Pompidou was recently added to the cultural portfolio of Málaga, Spain, this time in the form of a colorful cube structure.
Natalie Gerhardstein is a Luxembourg-based Journalist, travel writer, and frequent Wonderfilled contributor.