Last Call

The Eggroll Ladies

Phuong Lam is better known as the Eggroll Lady. I sat down with Lam and her daughters, Gwendolyn Bui and Christina Bui, to discuss how COVID-19 has impacted the business their family has tirelessly built in Worcester over the last 15 years.

How did your eggrolls get famous?

PL: First, I want to say thank you to every single American person in the world who accepted me to this land. I’m from Vietnam. My eggrolls are more than a business; I use my eggrolls to show thanks. Our shop is very small, but it allows me to chat with customers. That’s all I want. If I can tell someone thank you, I’m happy. America is a sweet land. I don’t worry about money because love is all I need here.

How did you end up in Worcester?

PL: I came without family. I escaped from Vietnam to Malaysia to the Philippines. I was on a riverboat in the ocean for four days that was weaker than a canoe. When I came to this country, so many people gave me love. The first day I arrived in the USA, the piece of bread volunteers gave me tasted so good and the clothes from the refugee camp felt so warm. Eventually, I ended up in Portland, Oregon. From there, I made a friend who gave me the address of someone with a job for me in Worcester. I slept on the floor in a house with 11 other people.

Gwen and Christina, did you start helping out as little kids?

GB: Yes, we went to all of the fairs. Marshfield Fair and the whole New England circuit. I’m the youngest, the middle is Jennifer, and the oldest is Christina. CB: Back then, we were pulling a 10-foot trailer. We actually still have it. That’s like another baby. In the summers, my sisters and I would always scramble to do summer reading because we were busy working a real job, selling soda cans for a dollar. PL: I’m so proud of my kids. Christina studied business, Jennifer is

From left, Christina Bui, Phuong Lam and Gwendolyn Bui.

DYLAN AZARI

a pharmacist, and Gwendolyn is becoming a nurse.

How long have you been open in Worcester?

PL: Since 2006.

Has COVID-19 had a big impact on the restaurant?

GB: This small shack used to have four tables for dine-in. Customers would come in here to eat and wait. We’d always be packed. Figuring out how to help everyone outside and bring orders to their cars was a challenge. We created a lot of new systems. PL: I am a cancer survivor, that’s why COVID made me very nervous. But, I’m still cooking. My love for our customers got me through cancer with no complaints and the same is true now. We had to shut down for six weeks. Today, things are better, but it’s hard not to worry every minute. We want our customers to feel relaxed. As a family business, I know that if one of us gets sick, we’ll all get sick and have to shut down again. My girls work in Boston and they have to come out here every weekend to help. I am here every day until three or four o’clock in the morning.

It’s important for me to bring freshness to our customers. A few weeks ago, we had to raise some of the prices on our menu for the first time. Parking on the weekends is also proving very difficult. We are hoping the city can add some temporary spots to help us survive.

Do you each have a specific role in the business?

GB: When we open, it’s actually just me and my mom here. My mom’s the cook and I take phone orders. It has been a huge challenge because a lot of our staff didn’t come back either because they were afraid to get sick or they were taking care of someone at home. The implementation of delivering orders to cars by myself took a lot of planning. We had to figure all this out as COVID was unfolding. Now, each person puts a number on their windshield wiper so they end up with the right order. PL: Christina is my boss! She’s the manager. I am 58 years old, so I am preparing for my retirement. My kids are about 80% ready.

Have you given them your secret recipes?

PL: They don’t know how to make the eggrolls yet. Even when I’m retired, I will come in here to see my customers and roll eggrolls. CB: We really do have amazing customers. Snowplow drivers who go out of their way to make sure we’re taken care of in a storm. School bus drivers who come in on their lunch breaks every week. We have so many considerate customers who make sure we stay in business. PL: Worcester is as sweet as a piece of sugar. As sweet as a little lamb. I love you all so much. Even the health inspectors are kind. The first time they came, I was scared because of my experience with communism in Vietnam. The inspector here introduced himself and said, “Are you ready to begin?” I was so surprised by his patience. In Vietnam, I was pushed and treated like an animal. I was selling books and the communists took them from me and knocked me into the street. That’s why I was nervous about government officials when I first came here.

Do you ever get any time for yourself?

PL: I love to cruise. Every year, we go on a cruise as a family.

Can I ask a personal question?

PL: Yes.

Are you ever frightened to be back on a boat after your experience fleeing Vietnam?

PL: No. If you live in the past, you will always be stuck there. It’s important to move forward in your life, appreciate what you have in the present, and show love to everyone around you.