WORCESTERMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 18-19, 2021 | 15
TABLE HOPPIN’
Newest Calabria owners continue tradition in Millbury Barbara M. Houle Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK
The Calabria Ristorante in Millbury has a lot of family tradition behind it dating as far back as the ‘90s when it opened as a private club on Shrewsbury Street in Worcester. It became public in 2001 and sold in 2002. The space is now occupied by Funky Murphys Bar & Grill. Owners Mario and Connie Ritacco with Elio and Connie Romeo (the women are first cousins) opened the Millbury Calabria Ristorante in 2007, turning the keys over to new owners John Direnzo, Maria Spiro and Gianfranco Ritacco (Spiro’s uncle) last June. Retirement and the desire to spend more time with their families and grandchildren were reasons given for the sale. Members of the Ritacco and Romeo families have always worked in the business, said Spiro, who has cooked for
Calabria Restaurant co-owners John Direnzo and Maria Spiro. ASHLEY GREEN/TELEGRAM & GAZETTE
the business since day one. She’s related to the original owners. Spiro left Calabria, Italy, when she was 21, with Worcester as her next home. She’s the only owner who cooks at the Millbury
restaurant, she said. Her uncle and Direnzo are more front of the house, helping out wherever and whenever they can. They like chatting with customers, she said. Direnzo has owned Direnzo Towing and Recovery Inc. in Millbury since 1999. He’s a friend of the previous owners and ate at the restaurant regularly before buying it. He’s a “single guy who doesn’t cook.” “I love this place and still eat here,” said Direnzo, who wouldn’t commit to how many days a week he’s at a table. “Let’s say, I’m not here on Sundays,” he joked. FYI: Sundays, the restaurant is closed. There have been some menu changes since the restaurant changed hands. However, recipes are grounded in family tradition and Southern Italian flavors, beautifully balanced. Recipe origins are tried and true, according to owners. Spiro said she uses the original struc-
ture of recipes but sometimes will add “a dash more of this, or a little less of that,” especially when she executes daily specials. Her love of cooking is expressed in rhythm and routine, creating meals is second nature for this cook. She’s lost count of how much sauce she makes in a week, she said, but definitely looks forward to locally grown tomatoes to use in homemade sauce. Her favorite dish is Zuppa Di Pesce, shrimp, scallops, calamari, black mussels and haddock sautéed in a red “brothy” sauce. Lobster Ravioli is a new hit with guests. “It’s all my own,” said Spiro. Not surprisingly, the Italian chicken Parmesan at the restaurant is a customer top pick. The menu offers variety in appetizers, salads, pasta, entrees, seafood and sides (gluten-free pasta included), and guests usually walk away with a takeSee TABLE, Page 20D
ARTIST SPOTLIGHT
Kayla Degnan Kayla Degnan Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK
Kayla Degnan lives in Charlton and is a self-taught pen and ink stippling artist with a passion for scientific illustration. Her art is displayed in a couple of small businesses in Western Massachusetts: Wild Oats Market and The Plant Connector, both of these locations are important to her because they “value community.” More of her work is available on Instagram @Silver_Owl_Design or at www.etsy.com/ shop/silverowldesign.
“Scribbs,” by Kayla Degnan “Bee,” by Kayla Degnan PHOTOS BY KAYLA DEGNAN
