5 minute read
Last Call
Victor D. Infante Worcester Magazine | USA TODAY NETWORK
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I ran into fellow Doherty graduate Stephen Harutunian last week at Ralph’s Rock Diner on one of my very first ventures back into the “real world.” Harutunian was kind enough to entertain my many questions about working in the Boston hospitality scene amidst a global health crisis. With great admiration for the restaurants who have pivoted toward takeout and leveraged social media, Harutunian is prepared to take on the post-pandemic era in stride.
Can you tell us about a restaurant job where you learned a valuable lesson that you have carried with you throughout your career?
One thing that comes to mind wasn’t even from a job I ended up taking. I staged for a serving position when I was young and starting out at a restaurant in Boston I really loved. The kitchen was tiny and cramped, and on the tour the manager introduced me to the dishwasher and said, “Don’t ever get in his way; that’s the most important person in this building.” That’s always resonated with me for a number of reasons. First, I made it my mission to be able to understand and navigate any space I might be in so that I’m never in anyone’s way — that’s an undervalued skill that not everyone might think about, but an awareness of a space and your movement through it is paramount. When I ended up passing on that job for another, I really found it to be true that the dishwasher was the hardest working guy in the room. He was 17, going to high school and coming straight to the restaurant from school every day, and doing doubles on the weekends, and doing homework by midnight at the earliest. Seven days a week, and all to help his family with money. I’ll never forget him and I’ll never complete a service without checking in with everyone in the restaurant to see how they’re doing and making sure they feel seen and appreciated, especially the dishwashers.
How do you predict the industry will change in the post-pandemic era?
Where do I start? Most obviously, I think that many restaurants — the ones that are taking this seriously — have adapted sanitation practices that maybe should have been more common anyway, and I see that continuing. It will be nice when one day we can run food and drinks to guests without wearing gloves, but I think we’ll have an even greater emphasis on responsible practices moving forward. I think there will also be a pretty significant step away from the “yes-culture” of the hospitality industry as well. Don’t get me wrong, the whole idea of hospitality is obviously being hospitable, but the philosophy that we can’t ever say “no” or that we aren’t the ones in charge is kind of crazy and I see that changing. The pandemic has shown the world that restaurants are businesses, vulnerable ones at that, and like with other businesses, there are considerations that aren’t unreasonable to ask of our guests. Ninety-minute reservation windows? I'm all for it. Most of all, I think when people start to feel more comfortable and start to go out they are going to be looking to have fun. I know I am. I want to run every service like I’m throwing a party and I want everyone that comes in to feel like they're at one. I think we’ll see many many more of these kinds of places — a relaxed, hip and youthful atmosphere — pop up, and less and less white tablecloths.
Eleven Madison Park just announced it's going vegan. Do you think others will follow or is this a misstep for Daniel Humm?
I’m in no position to say that Daniel Humm is making a misstep. I certainly understand the reasoning behind the decision, and I’m sure the dining experience will remain a fantastic one. Other than that, though, I haven’t put much thought into it, and I don’t see it becoming too common a trend, other than the fact that there are lots of great vegan places and I’m sure they will continue to open.
What would be your last meal?
Oh, just a big pile of my mother’s rice pilaf. I wouldn’t need anything else. She took the recipe from my grandmother on my dad’s side, the Armenian side, and somehow just made it so much better. I think it was more butter. I can still smell it cooking and it brings me right back to my childhood whenever I think about it. I’d probably realize I only ate rice though, and order a pizza an hour later. If I’m being honest.
As a seasoned member of the Boston restaurant scene, what is the outside perception of Worcester?
Overall it’s a positive one, for sure. You hear the phrase “up-and-coming” a lot. There are definitely the places people know and celebrate. Word gets out to Boston when something cool is happening in Worcester. Believe it or not, they aren’t that far from each other. I think, for some reason, there’s a lot of misunderstanding about that. Some people talk like it’s Western Mass. I’d really love for the city to keep growing culturally. I feel like there’s a lot of opportunity for progress in the Worcester restaurant culture, especially when it comes to beverage programs. It’s going to take people embracing it though.
When you are back in your hometown, what establishments do you like to frequent?
I don’t get out too much these days, but when I can, I definitely have some favorites. Though it’s take-out only right now, I really love Sushi Miyazawa. It’s the real deal. And if you’re like me, when you pick it up you can drive by 335 Chandler Street and pretend it’s still Tatnuck Bookseller. As long as I live I will never forget the smell of that place. Crompton Collective kind of hits that vibe, and I think it’s a fun store to get lost in. As far as bars go, there’s something about the charm of Vincent’s that does it for me, and I'm sure a lot of people know what I'm talking about. And there’s a lot to love just outside of Worcester, too. Timberyard Brewing is so much fun and well worth the quick trip west on Route 9. Hudson’s got a great thing going with Less Than Greater Than as well.
Where can we find you this summer and what should we order?
I am the general manager at Fox & The Knife, Chef Karen Akunowicz’s South Boston Enoteca. You have to try the Tagliatelle Bolognese, with wild boar and thyme. It’s so delicious and vibrant and herbal and surprisingly light. It pairs perfectly with a glass of La Tollara Frizzante, a slightly sparkling red blend of Bonarda and Barbera. Oh, and if it’s a nice day, we have a lovely patio, and all the frosé.
Stephen Harutunian is the general manager of Fox &
The Knife. PHOTO BY DYLAN AZARI
