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TABLE HOPPIN’

Dawn Abbruzzese and John Piccolo at Piccolo’s Restaurant on Shrewsbury Street, where Piccolo and Bill Brady will host a wine dinner June 7. RICK CINCLAIR/TELEGRAM & GAZETTE

Chefs John Piccolo, Bill Brady to host wine dinner on Shrewsbury St.

Barbara M. Houle

Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK

An exciting collaborative dinner event with executive chefs John Piccolo and Bill Brady is scheduled for June 7 at Piccolo’s Restaurant, 157 Shrewsbury St., Worcester.

Brady, owner of Brady’s, 37 Mechanic St., Leominster, and Piccolo together created a sixcourse dinner menu that will incorporate their unique cooking styles. Marcio Santos, chef at Piccolo’s Restaurant, will be in the back of the house with the host chefs. A “visiting chef” may join the group, according to Piccolo.

The dish: The wine dinner at 5:30 p.m. is $157 per person, inclusive. Seating is very limited and by reservation only. Call Piccolo’s Restaurant (508) 754-1057 after 4:30 p.m. (open Tuesday through Saturday) to reserve, or purchase tickets at the restaurant. “We expect the event to sell out quickly and it’s frst-come, frst-served. No exceptions,” said Piccolo.

The event marks the frst wine dinner at Piccolo’s Restaurant in several years, “way before COVID-19,” according to Piccolo. “People had been asking me to do a wine dinner and I talked to Bill and we decided to go with it. As chefs and both members of the Escofer Society, we’ve been known to raise a glass together once in a while,” joked Piccolo, who recalled how he previously had teamed up with other local chefs in presenting wine dinners.

“We’re excited to be in the kitchen, pair the wines and share the experience with friends,” said Piccolo. “It promises to be a unique night of fne wine and food.”

THE NEXT DRAFT

After surviving pandemic-plagued opening, Oakholm Brewing turns two

Matthew Tota

Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK

The frst time Andrew Woodward handed me one of his beers, his brewery only existed on paper.

In June 2019, the 90-yearold barn at Oakholm Farm in Brookfeld looked worn and dusty, an enclave for spiders, and had not yet transformed into Woodward’s handsome taproom. A broken concrete foundation occupied the spot where his 10-barrel brewhouse now sits. And instead of a beer garden, wild grass grew into the woods.

We stood under a tent, drinking beers from a trailer Woodward had rigged with taps and a cooler for kegs.

I visited the farm to write about the idea of Oakholm Brewing Co., the brewery Woodward founded with his friend Chris “Babe” Predella and Predella’s father, Rick, leaving impressed with their dream and tenacity. I told Woodward he would have an instant hit when they opened, and not just because of the location.

Oakholm debuted in May 2020, one unremarkable weekend in the middle of a state shutdown, limited to selling beer to-go in a parking lot. Quarantining, I spoke to Woodward, the head brewer, about the occasion by phone instead of visiting, forced to see the new taproom and brewhouse through photos.

He sounded optimistic despite the circumstances — the worst a new brewery could ask for — reassured by the initial response and by canning fve of his beers.

A year later, Oakholm has become one of those true destination breweries, having more than survived the chaos of 2020. It enters its second

Andrew Woodward, head brewer and co-founder of Oakholm Brewing Co. in Brookfeld, stands in his taproom, transformed from a dusty 90-year-old barn.

MATTHEW TOTA

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year feeling like it has been in business for 50, ready for the state’s full reopening and the bigger crowds that will no doubt follow.

“I just wanted people to enjoy the beer and brewery. I wanted them to come and feel like I felt when I walked into this barn, even though it was dusty and dirty, but seeing what it could be,” Woodward said. “That whole experience of being here with all this open air and land. The worry would be not that people wouldn’t fall in love with the land, but that the beer would not be up to par with all these other brewers out there. But it’s been good.”

Consistency and hard work were key factors in Oakholm adjusting to the challenges of the pandemic. Woodward grinded in the brewhouse to make sure the brewery had enough beer every week, while Babe Predella oversaw construction of the backyard beer garden.

So when the state permitted breweries to open for outdoor service last June, Oakholm had a seamless transition from the parking lot to the beer garden, then eventually into the fnished taproom, albeit at a reduced capacity.

“We were doling beers out of the beer trailer, and we had so much space,” Woodward said. “All the tables were far apart. Nobody was on top of each other. At a certain point during the summer, people just wanted to get out. And we had the space, which really helped us. If we didn’t have the space, if it were just this taproom, we would have struggled a lot more.”

Oddly, having to stagger its opening because of the pandemic helped, too, Babe Predella said, allowing them to manage production and move at a slower pace.

“I think as tough as the coronavirus was, it was a decent ease into the brewery,” he said. “We had regulations to follow. If we just opened the doors without that, I don’t know how we would have done it.”

Even in the colder months, Oakholm remained busy. Huge bonfres fed by an endless supply of wood pallets kept its guests warm, along with Woodward’s milk stout.

Woodward hopes to welcome even more people to the brewery this summer. They want to improve the beer garden and plan to build a concrete stage that will act as a small amphitheater for musicians.

“We want this to be bigger and better than last year,” he said.

Both Woodward and Babe Predella, I was surprised to learn, have continued working full time while putting in long hours at the brewery. And Rick Predella had been retired.

“For Andrew and Babe, it’s been a second full-time job,” Rick Predella said. “I’m retired., but I spend probably 50 hours a week here. It’s kind of a love.”

I asked him whether he pinches himself every time he strolls around the beer garden greeting customers, given the year Oakholm just lived through. I made the mistake of mentioning luck.

“It’s not luck. It’s a lot of talent,” he said. “We always knew — well we always hoped — it would be a destination. You combine that with our great beer and our outstanding staf.”

It is, indeed, hard not to fall in love with Oakholm’s pastoral setting. But I fnd the taproom even more beautiful. I visited for the frst time in person last week.

Maybe it’s because I saw the old barn before it became the taproom and walked through it while listening to Woodward describe his vision. Standing in it with the three owners, I couldn’t believe the transformation. I must have told Woodward a hundred times while talking to him.

At one point, while gawking at the space and chatting with Rick and Babe, Woodward quietly handed me a beer.

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CONNELL SANDERS

Wins and wines at the WooSox game

Sarah Connell Sanders

Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK

I had a wine night at the WooSox game last week when I found myself hankering for enough oily food to raise the Tin Man from the dead. My husband agreed to join me under the condition that I solemnly swear not to climb up any tall surfaces for a loud and passionate public performance of my favorite Taylor Swift songs.

I flled out the Google Form I had devised especially for such occasions, which stipulates that in the event we run into Jake Gyllenhaal, I am legally obligated to belt out a rendition of “All to Well” in Taylor’s honor. With that, we set of in search of pinot at Polar Park.

“Did you just email me a Google Form?” he asked.

“Don’t question me on wine night,” I told him.

I thought I detected an eye roll but I couldn’t be sure. Besides, nothing could spoil my evening. Everyone knows, there’s no squabbling on wine night. I skipped down Green Street with my head held high.

Inside the stadium, I surveyed the dining options: Wonder Bar Pizza, George’s Coney Island Hot Dogs, BT’s Smokehouse — oh, the possibilities.

“What do you want for dinner?” he asked me.

“All of it,” I told him, “I want all of it.”

In the frst inning, we ate our way through four Coney dogs

SeeWOOSOX,Page23

At Polar Park, I ate my way through George’s Coney Island, Wonder Bar Pizza, and BT’s Smokehouse, all paired with wines from 90+ Cellars. SUBMITTED PHOTO

Hoppin’

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Wine dinner menu: Sashimi Tuna Crudo and fresh herb crostini; Cannalloni Con Vitello (veal, ricotta and mascarpone wrapped in fresh spinach pasta, sauce Besciamella (Italianstyle Bechamel Sauce) and crispy pancetta); Storione Alla Romagna (grilled sturgeon fllet wrapped in grape leaves, zesty white wine salsa); Insalata Bella Donna (mixed greens, roasted butternut, toasted pistachio and green goddess dressing); Agnello Alla Griglia (grilled lamb chop, Simon and Garfunkel breading over red lentil hash); Blueberry Black Pepper Cake, with vanilla bean gelato and blueberry grappa drizzle.

Brady earlier this month reopened his restaurant (indoor and patio seating) after closing all operations during the pandemic. He said he is very fortunate to have the majority of his staf return to work. His executive chef Justin Smith has been with Brady since he owned the former Sonoma Restaurant in Princeton.

The reopening of Brady’s has gone really well, according to the owner, who has experienced several sold-out nights. “We’ve had a few hiccups along the way, like when we lost power with full restaurant capacity,” said Brady. “We pulled through with emergency lighting until the city’s power was restored,” he said. “It could have been worse.”

FYI: Piccolo’s Restaurant also has inside and outside seating Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended.

While restaurant jobs are plentiful, the industry continues to face a nationwide labor shortage. Restaurants have a new challenge, dealing with it the best they know how, according to Piccolo and Brady.

The June 7 wine dinner is a good sign of what’s ahead. For summer and fall, local restaurants and businesses have created new outdoor patio spaces and set up dining tents. Guests also can expect chefs to put locally sourced food at the top of creative new menus.

We say, relax and enjoy!

A recipe from Ina Garten

If you’re fring up the grill this weekend and planning to serve a couple sides with the meal, consider Ina Garten’s potato salad recipe. It’s easy and takes about 30 minutes from start to fnish. Her cookbooks are the best. Once when we interviewed Garten, Food Network TV host and cookbook author, she talked easy recipes. This potato salad is one of them. The recipe, courtesy of Ina Garten:

Potato salad

3 pounds small white potatoes Kosher salt

1 cup mayonnaise 1⁄4 cup buttermilk 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard 1⁄2 cup chopped fresh dill Freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 cup chopped celery 1⁄2 cup chopped red onion Place potatoes and 2 tablespoons of salt in large pot of water. Bring water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the potatoes are barely tender when pierced with a knife. Drain the potatoes in a colander, then place the colander with the potatoes over the empty pot and cover with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Allow the potatoes to steam for 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, buttermilk, Dijon mustard, whole grain mustard, dill, 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Set aside. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them in quarters or in half, depending on their size. Place the cut potatoes in a large bowl. While the potatoes are still warm, pour enough dressing over them to moisten. Add the celery and red onion, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Toss well, cover, and refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavors to blend. Serve cold or at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings. If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com.

WooSox

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ordered “up” and we shared a 90+ Cellars Sauvignon Blanc that smelled like the freshly cut grass in centerfeld. WooSox pitcher Kyle “Heart of the Commonwealth” Hart started the game with three hitless innings, and my favorite player, Jeter Downs, hit a single.

“He’s the most highly touted prospect,” said my husband.

“I loved him with Mariah Carey back in ‘98,” I responded.

“Diferent Jeter,” he claimed.

“I don’t think so,” I told him. “Let’s get pizza.”

We ordered a slice of cheese from The Wonder Bar and split a 90+ Cellars Pinot Noir which ofered subtle notes of black cherry, violets and Louisville Slugger. Jack Lopez got a hit and the scoreboard ticked up to a 4-0 lead for the WooSox.

“Oh my god, do you think Jennifer Lopez and Ben Afeck are here to support Jack?” I asked my husband.

“Diferent Lopez,” he alleged.

“Whatever,” I told him. “How about a pulled pork sandwich?”

Atop the Worcester Wall, we waited in line for BT’s where I promptly covered myself in barbecue sauce. We paired our pulled pork with a glass of 90+ Cellars Pinot Grigio that tasted like apricots and honeysuckle with a hearty “smack” of minerality that could only be rivaled by Kevin Smith’s solo home run for Bufalo in the seventh.

“He’s probably just getting out his aggression because he’s upset that Will and Jada have been having marital issues,” I mused.

“Diferent Smith,” my husband sighed.

“Don’t you think the Worcester Wall would be a perfect spot to really belt out some Taylor Swift right now to raise some spirits? I’ll bet everyone in the bleachers would love …”

“I think wine night is over,” he said.

“Probably for the best,” I agreed.

We left the park full and happy with another WooSox victory under our belts. I can’t recommend a WooSox wine night highly enough. Just ask my husband.

At Polar Park,a slice of Wonder Bar Pizzamet its match when paired with a wine from 90+ Cellars. SUBMITTED PHOTO

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