7 minute read
Table Hoppin’
CITY LIVING
TABLE HOPPIN’ Dropping in on Tom’s International Deli
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Barbara M. Houle
Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK
A recent visit to Tom’s International Deli on Millbury Street in Worcester reminded us of the feeling you get when you go into places that evoke nostalgia difficult to forget. The tastes and smells of childhood often are the most powerful of memories.
For some of Tom’s Deli customers, it’s the musky smell of beef, homemade Polish specialties or spices that capture a nostalgic feeling. “People tell me that the minute they walk into the store it’s a deli smell they remember even when they wore masks during the pandemic,” said Dariusz (Darek) Gago who with his wife, Iwona, own and operate the business. “I’m here six days a week, so I guess I’m immune to it,” said Gago.
Customers love the deli’s half sour pickles, too. No ordinary pickles, but Regal Crown Pickles that originated in Worcester and today produced in Wayne, N.J. under Regal Crown Foods, a subsidiary of Patriot Pickle. The Worcester pickle factory building had been located on Mason Street.
Some folks may remember going to the factory building with little pails or buckets to buy the pickles, said Gago. “Sometimes a customer will come into the deli with one of the little pails and ask if we want it. We sell the pickles and pickled vegetables, but we don’t use the pails.
“Honestly, people in the city are crazy for those pickles.”
When Tom’s Deli was on Water Street pickles and pickled vegetables were sold from barrels displayed in a front window. Customers at the Millbury Street deli will find them in a selfserve area near the back of the store that also features an olive bar. The business keeps to strict food codes, said Gago.
Tom’s International Deli has history in the city dating back to 1969 when Thomas Haddad founded and established it on Water Street. Gago and his wife bought the deli in 2008 and relocated it to 52 Millbury St. in 2010. He was employed at Commerce Insurance in Webster and his wife had worked at Tom’s Deli for about a year under former owners. “I had business experience and my wife knew about the food,” said Gago. “When the couple who owned the deli wanted to sell, I told my wife, ‘Let’s give it a whirl.’”
Gago grew up in Dudley, where he and his wife and their two children reside. The husband and wife team work in the business, sometimes with one other employee. The deli originally was opened seven days a week, but Gago has scaled back to six. “We needed more family time,” said Gago about the change. “You learn as you go along. We even take vacation time now,” he said.
Tom’s Deli is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday. Telephone: (508) 7557295; Visit www.tomsdelisubs.com or connect at Facebook.com/ tomsdeliworcester; @tomsdeliworcester. FYI: Customer parking is in a lot across the street from the business, or on street, front and back.
Gago said the centerpiece of the “Polish market” are sandwiches and homemade specialties ranging from pierogi and stuffed cabbage (golabki) to chicken cutlet. The deli boasts a long list of sandwiches, combos, hot sandwiches, deli salads, specialty sandwiches and “authentic Italian sandwiches,” in addition to fresh kielbasa (five kinds), meats, cheeses, smoked fish and lox. Sandwich platters and 6 foot subs are a hit with the togo party crowd.
European chocolates, snacks and specialty ethnic food groceries also are featured at Tom’s Deli. A good variety of products to slip into the summer picnic basket or gift box.
Gago continues catering the “Corporate Lunch,” but he has cut back on large catering jobs such as weddings. His last outoftown wedding was last weekend when he brought Polish food to a late night reception. Guests requested the food to be served hours after the first wedding reception, he said. The owner previously had done breakfast, lunch and dinner catering and recommends calling for updated information.
Regulars to Tom’s Deli often share family stories with Gago, sometimes in Polish. Older family members now bring in their children and grandchildren, he said. City neighborhoods change and with it comes a new generation and new ideas,” said Gago, who has no plans to change his menu. For some customers, the food is a reminder of their family history, especially around the busy holiday season, he said. These days, word of mouth and social media also play an important role in the success of this business.
From time to time, the Table Hoppin column will reintroduce readers to neighborhood businesses, such as Tom’s International Deli. For some of you it may be the first time to learn about a place and for others the story may bring back vivid memories. Some of the best conversations start over food.
Note: Tom’s International Deli will close for vacation on June 25, reopening July 5.
Tom’s International Deli owners Darek and Iwona Gago at the 52 Millbury St. location on Friday,
June 18. ASHLEY GREEN/TELEGRAM & GAZETTE
If you have a tidbit for the column, call (508) 868-5282. Send email to bhoulefood@gmail.com.
CONNELL SANDERS 10 takeaways from Cousy statue dedication, including comments from Senator Manchin
Sarah Connell Sanders
Special to Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK
On Friday, June 18, Boston Celtics legend Bob Cousy was honored with the dedication of a statue outside the DCU Center in downtown Worcester. Cousy, known as “Houdini of the Hardwood,” played point guard for the Celtics from 1950 to 1963. He is a graduate of the College of the Holy Cross and a longtime resident of Worcester. 10. Attorney General Maura Healy was cocaptain of the Harvard Crimson women’s basketball team before playing pro in Austria. She wore number 14 out of admiration for Bob Cousy. 9. Sportswriter Bob Ryan and his wife refer to one of the bathrooms in their home as the ‘Bob Cousy bathroom’ because it was built from the proceeds of the book he and Cousy coauthored, “Cousy on the Celtic Mystique.” 8. Bob Cousy has had three little brothers throughout his long tenure with the Big Brothers Big Sisters organization; two of the three were in attendance for the statue dedication. In his remarks, Cousy said it was simply called Big Brothers back when he got involved, but he’s glad they have become more “woke” by adding a component for young women in recent years. 7. Cousy says he’s had two great love affairs: his college sweetheart Missie, whom he married, and the city of Worcester. 6. The Cousys were always a dog family. The pups have passed, but are buried peacefully at their home on Salisbury Street. Cousy says his late wife Missie would have preferred
A statue honoring basketball legend Bob Cousy was dedicated outside the DCU Center Friday,
June 18. RICK CINCLAIR/TELEGRAM & GAZETTE
them buried alongside her at Saint John’s Cemetery. 5. Sen. Joseph Manchin of West Virginia grew up idolizing Bob Cousy in the 1950s. Today, Manchin is one of the most powerful political figures in the country. He is widely viewed as the most rebellious Democratic Senator, confirming many of President Trump’s cabinet seats as well as Supreme Court Justice Brett Kavanaugh. Manchin flew in with his wife Gayle to attend Cousy’s statue dedication.
4. Manchin met Cousy on a trip to Florida a decade ago. He advocated for Cousy to receive the Presidential Medal of Honor from President Trump. During the ceremony, Manchin was booed by a spectator when he told the story of having lunch with President Trump to make the ask.
He began, “At that time, I had a good relationship with President Trump...” He paused at the interruption to clarify, “I said, at that time…”
The individual yelled out “Boo again!”
Manchin pressed on, proclaiming, “What a day for America! Cousy the one person that brings us together — bipartisan.” 3. Cousy’s likeness was immortalized by the work of sculptor Omri Amrany, best known for his iconic statue of Michael Jordan, called “The Spirit.” 2. Tom “Satch” Sanders praised Cousy’s passionate involvement in establishing the National Basketball Players Association, adding that he is grateful for the fruits of his resulting pension. Sanders still dwells on the fact that if “Cooz” had passed him the ball five more times, he would have been an allstar. “But this is not about me,” he joked to a thunder of laughter from the crowd. 1. Boston Celtics majority owner Wyc Grousbeck is originally from Worcester. He praised Cousy for his public stance against racism in the 1950s and ‘60s and said Cousy paved the way for Celtics’ recent $25 million pledge to combat racial injustice in Boston.
Mr. Cousy happens to live down the street from my husband, my dog Wennington (named for former Chicago Bull, Bill Wennington) and myself. We’ve only lived in the neighborhood a short time, but I would like to state for the record that if the Cooz ever needs a cup of sugar or a puppy to play with, I’ll be at his door in a flash.
LISTEN UP Overlooked gems by JATK, J. Jordan, Salem Wolves, SeapeopleS and Zola Simone
Victor D. Infante
Worcester Magazine USA TODAY NETWORK
We get a lot of musical submissions. I mean, a LOT. Like, nearly every musician in New England. Obviously, we can't get to everything, but there are always a few gems from around the region we almost overlooked. Here are a few of them:
“Japanese Butterfly,” by JATK: Boston songwriter Matt Jatkola has been chronicling his cancer journey with upbeat rock and roll through his power pop project, JATK, but even if you don't know that, his song “Japanese Butterfly” is definitely worthwhile. There's a garage rock jangle and an indie rock vibrancy to the song, all framing some surprisingly delicate songwriting: “Taking off is easy/You show him how to start/by letting go of secrets/in caterpillar hearts. In short, the song's a brisk, uplifting joy.
“No Title,” by J. Jordan: This song by Lowell hiphop artist J. Jordan – a Fitchburg native – might have a prosaic title, but man, the song itself hits pretty hard … ironic for a song with the refrain, “I didn't mean to go so hard.” There's a brisk, propulsive quality to Jordan's flow, the way he clips each line, creating a torrent that's easy to get caught up in: “A round of applause for false gods/and these stage productions,” he raps, “spent the budget on a blood bath/and they gave us nothing.” Each line cuts, and when he delivers lines like “We're in America/losing our identity/using words like 'equal'/what exactly does it mean?” the impact is palpable.
“Turn to Gold,” by Salem Wolves: There's really no good reason why we never got around to Massachusetts rockers Salem Wolves' 2020 album, “Never Die!!!”, but the music video for the band's song “Turn to Gold” definitely proves that was a regrettable omission. The madcap and abstract animated video aside, what you have here with this song about being lost in the darkness, about searching for something
Matt Jatkola PHOTO BY ANELEISE RUGGLES J. Jordan PROMOTIONAL IMAGE
SeapeopleS PHOTO/LAURYN SOPHIA
Gems
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without knowing what it is that's missing: “Drive/ Through the night/From Providence to Boston/Don’t stop until it's daylight.” That moment when the light first appears – when everything “turns to gold,” is captured here amid a torrent of drums and squealing guitars, a moment of beauty amid the rock 'n'' roll chaos.
“It Feels Heavy,” by SeapeopleS: The song may be called, “It Feels Heavy,” but the melody itself is anything but: the Maine and Bostonbased band SeapeopleS have created a sound here that's melodically pleasant with a rich, warm inviting tone. Which is funny, because the song itself does delve into some heavy feelings: “I don't wanna hear what you're gonna say/I can hear you think from a mile away/I don't wanna know/where you're gonna go/it just makes me so paranoid/I don't wanna feel what you're having to deal with/you just use me to steal with.” The song's sense of balance makes it extremely engaging and deeply resonant.
“Iridescent,” by Zola Simone: This track from the Boston singersongwriter Zola Simone, produced by The Arcitype, manages to catch the heat of a relationship that burns hotter than at least one person involved is willing to admit. “I can taste you want it,” sings Simone, “No part of this platonic/Say I’m just an option/But you lie, you lie.” Every line of this song is infused with smoke and the spark of potential that seems in danger of dissipating if unrealized too long. It's a beautiful song, the kind that gets under your skin.
Zola Simone PROMOTIONAL IMAGE
