The Word Ha Noi by Ian Paynton

September 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

the talk

Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 / Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 / Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn-nxbld@vnn.vn Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM-DV-QC-Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com Văn Phòng Đại Diện Tại Hà Nội: Ngõ 93, Nhà 2C, Lý Nam Đế, Hoàn Kiếm ĐT: +84 4 3747 5589 / Fax: +84 4 3747 5598 Email: info@wordhanoi.com Website: www.wordhanoi.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71-73-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q.1, TP. HCM www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161-2011/CXB/155-07/LĐ ngày 02/03/2011 Quyết định xuất bản số QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 23/08/2011 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2011.

Contents September 2011

FEATURES

REGULARS

024 What Do You Hear? The soundscape of the city

006 The Talk Openings, events and news around town

026 Some Like it Hot Shakin’ it to Salsa

012 Our Man Vietnam — exploding or imploding?

031 Hanoi Calling An insider’s perspective on the capital’s music scene

020 Overscene Snapshots of last month’s events

024

006

030 Many Faces The reel music man

056 Now and Then A glimpse into Vietnam’s colonial history

044 Destination Sulawesi, Indonesia

060 Pest Special Roaches, rats and mosquitoes

052 Mystery Diner Tapas treats

026

The editorial and design of THE WORD HA NOI is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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044

053 Street Snacker Beyond the noodle

Duong Vy Bao, General Director bao@wordhanoi.com bao@wordhcmc.com Editorial Ian Paynton, Deputy Chief Editor ian@wordhanoi.com

054 Street Style Where fashion and the pavement collide

David Stout, Deputy Editor david.stout@wordhanoi.com

056

George Mills, Features Sub-Editor George@wordhanoi.com

110 The Final Say My father and me

Aaron Joel Santos, Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

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Dominic Blewett, Staff Photographer dominic@wordhanoi.com Hoa Le, Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com Paolo Maling, Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

N A

R O B

E N S U R

B M

C A R

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Nguyen Tan Loc, Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

B U E N O S A

Phi Nguyen Thuy Linh, Intern linh@wordhanoi.com

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Administration Le Dang Phuong Trang, Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com Advertising Chau Giang, Sales & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com Huynh Quang Hau, Advert Designer artwork@wordhcmc.com Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien, Advert Designer hien@wordhcmc.com

The Word would like to thank Nguyen Thanh Ngoc, Debbie Clare, Nicolas Deschamps, Tania Willis, Steve Jackson, Brian Ring, Linh Nguyen, Tim Emmett, Kaitlin Rees, Victoria Boggiano, Douglas Pyper, Thanh Nguyen, JC Smith, Noi Pictures, Shahar Lubin, Phuong Dang and interns for their contribution to this issue

2 | The Word September 2011 © Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

P A C H E

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T O R

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M D S

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L U M P U R

P A S

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HO CHI MINH CITY 104 The Vertical Challenge A race to the top

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Longitude & Latitude Answers The Word Ha Noi is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

C A T

W O O E D

Distribution & Subscriptions hai@wordhanoi.com For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 93464 0668 or Bao on +84 902 361561

Nick Ross, Chief Editor and Deputy Director editor@wordhanoi.com

O S

104

See p168 for the original puzzle Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

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tweets of the month

THE PRELUDE September 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

Front Cover Design by DH Advertising Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

OK WE ADMIT IT. MAYBE Hanoi isn’t the crown jewel of Southeast Asia when it comes to music scenes. Indeed, outside of the myriad of karaoke bars, Filipino cover bands and a few independent venues, Hanoi has little to offer if you’re looking for quality, accessible and original nightly live music. But it’s still got something. Rather than sitting around and moaning about the fact or supplying our readers with mediocre lists, we gathered a group of insiders — venue owners, industry veterans and musicians — to help stitch together a critical analysis about how Hanoi’s music scene has developed in the past 20 years, where it’s at now and where it might be

headed in the near future. While we offer no definitive forecast concerning what shape the music scene will be in the next decade, what is clear is that the city’s young musicians are approaching their craft with an energy and set of expectations that is far different from the attitudes that shaped the previous generation. But you’ll have to read on to understand what we’re saying — no spoilers here. With that said, we hope you enjoy the issue. And as ever we would love to hear what you enjoy and what you think should be cut. All comments are appreciated. Simply email ian@wordhanoi. com. Talk soon!

@ourman Contemplating the expat obsession with service for a future @WordVietnam column Aug. 7 @vietdlam RT @WordVietnam We often hear stereotypes about Vietnamese women. Steve Jackson finds that many don't hold true Aug. 18 @vietnamrelief @WordVietnam could u RT to ur followers? YouPlanet launch parties in #Hanoi, raising finds for Vietnam Relief Services vietnamreliefservices.org Aug. 18 @caligarn Hi all in #Vietnam. Know any bachelors and bacholerettes that would be down to be in the next @WordVietnam Singles contest?? Aug. 26

INBOX COME TO BKK Compared to BKK Magazine and the other English publications in Bangkok, The Word is much more interesting. Any chance you guys might want to start a mag here? — DW DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT NICK@WORDHANOI.COM OR IAN@WORDHANOI.COM

WATCHING THEM DOGS The only people who’ve come out with a clean bill of health from the whole Hanoi Watchdog shenanigans are The Word. Are you sure it’s not you behind the site? It certainly isn’t Link Hanoi. They can’t write English to save their lives. — ML

4 | The Word September 2011

PHOTOS ARE IMPROVING The photography in the magazine has really improved — it’s much more cohesive now. - VJ

TOO TEENY EVENTS, EVENTS, EVENTS If you want to find out information you go to The New Hanoian, but if you want to know what’s happening in town, you go to The Word — S

TOO NICE The Word always writes about the nice things about this city but never talks about some of the bad things. — PL

The cover of the last mag makes it look like some kind of teen magazine. — BL

SHAPE UP DISTRIBUTION I'm really enjoying reading your magazine at the moment and I'm not the only one. Even all the journalists I talk to speak really highly of what you're trying to do. The only problem seems to be distribution. You need to start delivering The Word to more places outside of Central Hanoi. — TTG

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the talk

the big

FIVE

the big five just in exhibitionist the buzz overscene

Things to watch out for this month (in no particular order)

Exotissimo and MetaSport are teaming up to host the fifth installment of the Vietnam Triathlon. This annual event has been labelled “one of the 10 most scenic races on earth” by Triathlete Magazine US. The race will kick off on the palm-fringed sands of stunning Cua Dai Beach then wind its way through tropical hinterland just a stone’s throw from Hoi An. If you’re not in shape for the Olympic distance race, a 5km “Fun Run” will be hosted as well. The races will be held from Sep. 10 to Sep. 11 at the Swiss-Belhotel Golden Sand Resort in Hoi An. For more information check out www.vietnamtriathlon.com or email vietnamtriathlon@metasport.com

Classify Yourself The word ‘expatriate’ is becoming a redundant term IN VIETNAM, FOREIGNERS ARE NGUOI nuoc ngoai (people from an outside country), Caucasians are labeled as Tay (westerner), Sub-Saharan Africans are often called My Den (black Americans) and anyone from the Indian subcontinent is purely described as being An Do (Indian), no matter which country they come from. Get the politically correct, tree hugging, animal rights brigade in on the act (another generalization and stereotype), and they would have a field day. For all the ‘social responsibility’ required of the media in this country, when it comes to political correctness, the everyday language used to classify people living away from their country of origin in Vietnam is far off the mark. And yet, turn it round, the Englishlanguage terms used to describe ‘foreigners’ living in an overseas country are also unclear. Pick up a dictionary, and a Britishborn subject living outside of their native country temporarily may be classified as an ‘expatriate’. It’s a 19th century term, but it sticks. Conversely, the equivalent Mexican in the US, who is also a temporary overseas resident, will be labeled an ‘immigrant’. The same goes for all the Indian and Sri Lankan workers earning a buck in Singapore and the majority of the thousands of Filipinos making

6 | The Word September 2011

a living in Hong Kong. If you are Khmer and come to Vietnam for work, you are probably an ‘immigrant’, if you are Thai, then you are an ‘expatriate’. And yet, take the original 19th century definition of the word ‘expatriate’, and all of us living temporarily overseas are ‘expatriates’, no matter whether we’re returning Viet Kieu or from Nigeria, Korea, France, Russia or India. So, what’s gone wrong? And how should we define ourselves?

Expat or Not? The fact is that these days the terms ‘expatriate’ and ‘immigrant’ not only come laden with stigma, but also take on a socioeconomic meaning. In the process they have got confused. For example, the word ‘expatriate’ is usually used as a moniker to describe skilled professionals hired from overseas or sent abroad to work by their companies. These people could be from anywhere, but what they have in common is some sort of mid to top-level management position, and a remuneration package that includes monetary benefits such as cost of living and/or hardship allowances supported by non-monetary incentives such as housing and education for their family.

Conversely, these days the socio-economic term ‘immigrant’ is no longer used to only describe people who move permanently from one country to another. Instead it has negative connotations, and is used to pigeonhole people moving from less developed to more developed countries, these days often temporarily and for work. Take the case of Mexico and the US. Mexico has a less well-endowed economy than that of its northern neighbour, the standard of living is lower and there is large underemployment. So, it is no wonder that millions of its citizens look to the north for sustenance. But, let’s say someone from the US went to Mexico City or Cancun to find work, would they be called an ‘immigrant’? No.

Back in the ‘Nam This leaves us with a problem. In Vietnam, the majority of the 100,000 or so non-Vietnam born people now living in this country (the real figure could be far higher) are neither ‘immigrants’ or ‘expatriates’. Rather, they are best described as overseas residents living in Vietnam. And with this country developing so fast and both international and local companies replacing expensive overseas hires with local hires, so the number of true ‘expatriates’ in Vietnam is dwindling. As when the Vietnamese call Africans My Den or categorise Caucasians (as in the past) as being Lien So (from the Soviet Union), so in English we shouldn’t give the ‘expatriate’ tagline to all overseas residents of Vietnam. And one thing’s for sure, this mythical ‘expat community’ that we talk of is far smaller than we would like to presume.

SKANK THE TANK

This reggae music event is starting to take off. Once every three weeks, DJ Slo-Lo and friends are dropping new tracks and old-school classics at Hanoi Rock City. Local DJs and bands as well as some global acts are bringing a collection of reggae, dancehall, rocksteady, dub, ragamuffin, dubstep, ska, drum and bass, grime and jungle tunes to the capital. If you know even half of those words, good for you. If not, time to learn. Besides the music, they’ve got reggae film screenings, multiple hammocks, food and drinks to help bring you closer to the ways of the Rastafari. The next Skank the Tank kicks off around 9pm on Sep. 16. Entrance is free before 11pm, VND50,000 after. For more info on the shows and movie selections, visit the Facebook page for Skank the Tank. Hanoi Rock City is located 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho

TRIATHLON TIME

JAPANESE DREAM

For those of you who love living in Asia, but wish that cuisine from the Land of the Rising Sun were more readily available, fear not. In September, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi will be hosting a week of Japanese gastronomy in the form of o a Japanese food festival. An extensive selection i ion of authentic Japanese delicacies will be served buffet style for only VND 690,000++ including free flow of wine, draught beer and soft drinks. Prepare your stomachs now. The feast will be served from Sep. 12 to Sep. 16 from 6.30pm to 10.30pm at the Mangosteen Restaurant located on the 2nd floor of the hotel at 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem

HANOI ROCKS

For fans of homegrown rock and metal, the website vnrock.com is using their eighth birthday as an excuse to put on an extravaganza of thrashing guitars, headbanging musicians and wild on-stage antics later this month. Organised in conjunction with linkhanoi.com, the party will see the likes of Ngu Cung, Saigon-based Recycle and Aurora head to the swimming pool at Tay Ho Hotel together with singer Thai Thuy Linh for a wild and wet night of rock, thrash and metal. The event will also be filmed by YanTV. Starting at 5pm on Sep. 10 and with DJ Size-O on the decks, pre-purchased tickets cost VND150,000 while on the door entrance is VND200,000. To buy your tickets in advance, go to Coi Xuong, 165 Mai Hac De or 323 De La Thanh; Fat Cat, 25 Ta Hien; Puku, 16-18 Tong Duy Tan

48-HOUR FILM PROJECT

This October will see the first instalment of the Canon 48-Hour Film Project in Hanoi. Now in its second year in Vietnam, the global contest requires filmmakers to write, shoot, edit and complete a short movie within 48 hours. Each contestant will have to work with a character, a prop, a line of dialogue, and a genre assigned by the organisers. Taking place in Hanoi between Oct. 14 and Oct. 16, all the films will then be screened at Megastar Cinema before the winning entry will be picked by a jury that will include Hollywood director Phillip Noyce (The Quiet American and Salt). This film will then be entered into the Cannes Film Festival in 2012. Any team is eligible to enter the competition. Simply go to 48.vivo.vn to see sample short films and email vietnam@48hourfilm.com for entrance information. The filmmaking will begin at 7pm on the Friday and the final four to seven-minute fully edited and rendered short will need to be delivered by 7.30pm on the Sunday. For further information email the event’s organiser Ross Stewart on ross@d-v-s.com.au. The project is run in conjunction with HK Film.

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JUST IN Openings, re-openings and all that is new TAY TAP Located within a stone's throw of Don's and The House of Son Tinh, and opposite West Lake, the newly opened multi-storey Tay Tap is the latest watering hole to throw itself into the West Lake pot. Sporting wooden furnishings and a downstairs wooden bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits — the venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both east and west. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, the kitchen is stocked with comfort foods. Tay Tap, 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

MAY PUB

CHEZ XUAN After hosting CAMA’s Lymbyc System show in July, this breezy, open-air bar restaurant is picking up steam. Though it’s a bit far off the normal Hanoi beaten track, the expansive wooded area and chilled out atmosphere is making us want to keep this place close. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings with fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can grill yourself a plate of meat or seafood, or choose from the gourmet selection of striploin, ostrich or salmon to throw onto the table-top grills. Chez Xuan, 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Ba Dinh

BAMBOO VILLAGE The cozy handmade-goods store recently opened another location just down the road on the popular shopping and dining street, Xuan Dieu. Next time you find yourself in need of earth-toned bamboo baskets or accent-coloured ceramics, or really anything along the lines of simple and classic home furnishings — vases, placemats, laundry hampers, candle holders — check out their new location on 108 Xuan Dieu.

A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to the two-monthold May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau — in the shadow of popular restaurant behemoth Quan An Ngon. The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free pool, darts and low-key live music. The menu combines traditional cocktails (reasonably priced at around VND65,000) with more unusual offerings like Russian string cheese — a smoky, salty snack that comes with a hot dipping sauce. Wednesday and Friday nights are buy one, get one free for ladies, but gentlemen shouldn't feel left out — all would-be pub crawlers can pick up 20 percent discount coupons from promoters at the door. The place has the makings of becoming a favourite for a late-night brew. May Pub, 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem

TABOO

PILSNER URQUELL One month in and this Czech bar and restaurant has the light and dark pilsner taps flowing. Modeled after a brewery/bar/bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose, my xao, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. This place is perfect for big group gatherings. Pilsner Urquell Original Restaurant, 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh

8 | The Word September 2011

Set to open early this month, Taboo Lounge Bar is the latest international standard restaurant and bar to make its way to Hanoi. It’s not 20 storeys above street level or in a converted colonial era building. Instead this new, lavish but discerningly designed nightspot is located on a triple-deck boat on West Lake. Moored just by the junction of Thuy Khue and Thanh Nien, the 300-or-so-capacity venue has a downstairs indoor area with space for catwalks, live music events and DJ parties, while an indoor mezzanine level with daybeds is also on offer. An outdoor space on the third deck provides an additional option for private events while, according to the people behind the scene, creative cocktails, as well as a casual but mid to top-end international cuisine menu will also be in the mix. Expect Taboo to quickly become the latest place to be and be seen in Hanoi. Taboo is located at 4 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho. For more information call 3728 2996 or email gm@taboo.com.vn

Elegant Spacious Restaurant North/South Indian Delicacies Great Homely Service Tandoori Chicken/Kebabs Halal Food In-House Party area Quick Delivery Service Outdoor Catering/Party orders Call Kaustubh Trivedi 0989 129 440 Best Restaurant Award for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 by The Guide, Vietnam Economics Times

Business hours: 11.00 AM to 2.30 PM 6.00 PM to 10.30 PM 1C Tong Dan - Hoan Kiem - Hanoi Tel: 04 3934 3513 / 3934 5657 Fax: 04 3934 3514 Mobile: 0989 129 440 Email: khazaana@fpt.vn Web: www.khazaana.vn

the talk

WIRED!

EXHIBITIONIST Arts around the city

Google Plus?

It is ironic that within weeks of the launch of Google+, Facebook suddenly became easily accessible in Vietnam. Although Zing has twice as many users as Facebook in this country — possibly because of difficult access — Vietnam represents the iconic social media website’s largest growing market. So, what prospects are there for Google+ in Vietnam? With the website now up and running for a couple of months and a deluge of ‘initial impressions’ already stocking up in both print and online publications, the Word decided to quiz our readers about their thoughts concerning the site. “Google+ hands down. Clean, simple and free of nonsense for now. I don't have to scroll through endless status updates to see what my friends are up to. Facebook really feels kind of high schooly now.” — Barry Do

WRITER’S COLLECTIVE STRANGE ROOTS PECHA KUCHA One of the more recently created arts formats, Pecha Kucha, or “chit-chat” in Japanese, is coming to Hanoi later this month. Looking to bring together a diverse range of people to share 20 images for 20 seconds per image on a large-screen projector, the event aims to promote the “cross fertilization of ideas across different communities in Hanoi.” Presentations, in either English or Vietnamese, need not be done by professionals — anyone can get involved. This event marks Hanoi’s first step into the international arena of over 400 cities that host Pecha Kucha nights. The event will take place on Thursday, Sep. 29 from 8pm to 10pm (Doors open from 7pm) at Hanoi Cinematheque, 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Free admission. For more information on how to participate or attend, please contact the organisers at pechakuchahanoi@gmail.com or find out more at www.pecha-kucha.org/night/hanoi/

“I like Google+ because it feels a bit more exclusive and private, you only share info you wish to the organised circles of your friends. The hangout option is also good. I've noticed the kind of friends on my Google+ are a bit more serious, industry types (western group) while the Vietnamese groups are a bit more random.” — Ann Ha “Google+ has a plug-in called Start Google Plus that makes it possible to run everything (Facebook, Twitter, Linked In) together in one newsfeed. Ultimately this kind of feature is the future because none of us can participate in so many networks. AND get some sunlight.” — Peter Stuckings “I still maintain that while Google+ and Facebook may be more mainstream, Twitter remains the more interesting of the three.” — Steve Jackson.

10 | The Word September 2011

The Hanoi Writers’ Collective is having its first book launch party at the Hanoi Cooking Centre on Friday Sep. 9. Strange Roots: Views of Hanoi is a compilation of poems, fiction, essays and artwork by members of the international group that was founded in 2009. The recently published book reflects on life in Hanoi as a foreigner and the lasting ways the city changes its visitors. The group’s got big aspirations for future events; a peak into what is going on in this section of the literary world is definitely worth it. The night will feature readings from the authors and complimentary wine. Check out the party at 7pm on Friday Sep. 9 at the Hanoi Cooking Centre (adjacent to Bookworm bookshop), 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh. For more info, contact Bookworm at 3715 3711 or simply email bookworm@fpt.vn

FILM BUFFS Following on from their recent August screening at La Cooperative, Future Shorts ONE will once again showcase an official selection of short films along with live music, performance and art. This month’s films will take on a myriad of topics including war, hair perms, cults and puberty. The Hanoi coalition of Future Shorts will run the event together with an hour of live music followed by screenings of local Vietnamese films produced by Hanoi DOCLAB, Hanoi University Media Lab and the Yxine Film Fest. The night will end with an hour of the international selection. The September date has yet to be announced. So, to find out when and where the event will take place, please go to www.futureshorts.com/ONE.

MACBETH IN HANOI BALANCE One of the few Vietnamese painters to have sold large quantities of original work overseas, artist Dao Hai Phong will be teaming up with photographer Ngoc Thai for the exhibition Balance. On exhibit at Hotel de l’Opera (29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem) from Sep. 7 to Sep. 9, the showcase will contrast the deep colours and Vietnamese-inspired imagery of Dao Hai Phong with the atmospheric black and white photography of Ngoc Thai. Through these opposed factors, the two artists will try to affect a yin yangstyle sense of balance.

A European production of Macbeth is coming to Vietnam this October and November. The classic tale of deceit, treachery and tragedy set in the Scottish highlands, and written by William Shakespeare, will be performed by the UK’s TNT Theatre group at the Hanoi Opera House (Oct. 31 to Nov. 2). The production will also be at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House (7 Lam Son Square, Q1) daily from Oct. 26 to Oct. 29 at 8pm. The play will finish its Vietnamese run at Da Nang’s Trung Vuong Theatre (Nov. 4). Reservations and ticket sales begin on Sep. 5. For tickets and further information, contact the Vietnam Performing Arts Centre on 3747 8658 or gma@adg-europe.com

the talk

Our Man

STEVE JACKSON

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EXPLODING OR IMPLODING? JUDGING FROM NEWSREEL FOOTAGE back when “all this was bicycles”, Vietnam wasn’t just quiet but it was pretty slow moving too — not at all surprising when you figure that heat occasionally nudges 40 degrees in the summer. Vietnam doesn’t seem like it was meant to be fast. But scooters replaced pushbikes and now cars replace scooters. Air con means people can work faster, harder and longer. Those cars are now blocking streets. To deal with this we’ll soon get more car parks, wider streets and flyovers. Alongside these will be trams and increased public transport. The city is expanding — it needs more housing, more shops. Hanoi, they tell us, will become a city made of cities. My Vietnamese parents-inlaw used to live in the countryside. They now live in the city. They didn’t have to move to achieve this. Still, for those with nostalgia for “their countryside” there are wildlife restaurants. While the kids increasingly pay lip service to green causes, many affluent oldies are still paying top dollar for civet and pangolin. In 2010, Vietnam’s last Javan rhino was shot. No one really believes Vietnam’s tigers and elephants can survive.

12 | The Word September 2011

Since the end of the American war, Vietnam’s population has more than doubled. Over the past decade, Vietnam's carbon dioxide emissions have grown by 136 percent. That's faster than any other country on the planet. Over the same period Vietnam’s oil use grew by 82 percent — topped only by increases from China and Qatar. But that’s nothing compared to Vietnam’s electricity use — up a massive 227 percent. Meanwhile having hauled themselves out of poverty through sheer hard work, Vietnamese ambition doesn’t show any signs of slowing. Those who had it hard don’t want their kids to suffer like they did. If that means youngsters studying seven days a week, then so be it. Kids are less likely to go hungry but they will face different kinds of pressures. Simply making it to university isn’t enough. It has to be a foreign university. In the right country. Meanwhile surveys show by the time kids reach their late teens that their largest outgoing will be paying off debt. That’s something they will have to get used to. With Hanoi’s housing bubble not yet burst, real estate loans went up by almost a quarter between 2009 and 2010.

Borrow more. Buy more land. Or dollars. Or even gold. And if you’ve spent all that money on land, you’re going to want to make the best of it — no point having a three-storey house when you could have five. Knock it down, borrow more money and build it again bigger than ever. Have your builders work through the weekend to get it done as soon as possible. Make them start early and finish late. Then, if you find yourself richer in 10 years time, do it all again. It’s little wonder then that Vietnam has a dust problem — up to 20 or 30 times the recommended limit near building sites. Back to the family. Mum and dad both have to go out to work now in order to meet increasing financial commitments. Grandparents are needed to take kids to school; a golden generation that won wars and survived food shortages will have no time to enjoy their retirement — they are needed to babysit and do the school run. Mums and dads get back late. Stuck at work then stuck in traffic. It’s a ride, exhilarating but exhausting too. And let’s not forget that these are the good times. But how does it end?

Ho Chi Minh City

Hanoi

The Word September 2011 | 13

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IN THE PAPERS The best of the Vietnamese press

Genuine Italian Food Excellent Italian Wines with Sommelier's Choice

Friendly Service Cosy Ambiance PHU QUOC READY FOR A CASINO

Fully Airconditioned

Vietnam has given the green light for foreign investors to develop a casino project in the southern resort island of Phu Quoc, requiring a minimum investment of US$4 billion. A site of more than 130 hectares has been earmarked for the project, which will also include a resort, news website VnExpress reported. The casino alone will cover an area of 30,000 sqm, enough to accommodate 2,000 slot machines and 200 to 400 table games. The resort will have five or six 5-star hotels with a total of 3,000 rooms. The duration for the casino operating license will be 30 years.

VIETNAMESE DON’T UNDERSTAND DOMESTIC VIOLENCE

STARBUCKS ENTERING VIETNAM Starbucks, the world’s largest coffeeshop operator, said it’s excited about the opportunities that Vietnam presents, following reports that the company will enter the local market soon. “We look forward to offering highquality coffee, handcrafted beverages, legendary service and the unique Starbucks experience to consumers in Vietnam in the future,” Wendy Pang, the company’s Asia Pacific spokeswoman, told Thanh Nien in an emailed statement. Pang did not offer further comment on the company’s entry into Vietnam. The New York Times and BBC have reported that the US coffee giant is looking to enter India and Vietnam as part of a plan to advance its international growth. According to The Times, the company planned to expand in India this fiscal year and in Vietnam the next year. It now has almost 6,000 stores outside North America, including outlets in the Philippines, Singapore and Thailand.

14 | The Word September 2011

Between 70 to 80 percent of officials surveyed by the Institute of Sociology told researchers that domestic violence is sometimes necessary, Tuoi Tre reported. More than 1,300 officials in wards and districts were polled by researchers from the institute, which is part of the Ho Chi Minh National Academy of Politics and Public Administration in Hanoi. It is not clear where the he respondents were located. Vo Thi Hong Loan, who headed the survey, was quoted by Tuoi Tre as saying that 15 percent of male officials and 14 percent of females said they didn't consider verbal abuse from a husband to a wife domestic ticc violence. 10 and seven percent, respectively, did not believe that beating one's wife constituted domestic violence, she added. Loan said that up to 25 percent of males and d 20 percent of females didn’t consider forced marriage to be domestic violence, either. Meanwhile, 15 and nine percent of male and female officials, respectively, said that beating one's children did not constitute domestic violence. Many young officials didn’t consider sexual violence or emotional abuse to be domestic violence, either, saying that they are personal affairs. Although laws against domestic violence were passed d in 2007, official awareness of the issue is still limited, thee research group concluded. According to the findings, one in every two women has been a victim of domestic violence. Many experts believe that the rate is probably much higher. “While conducting research on domestic violence, I noticed that the situation in urban areas is as critical as that att of the countryside, if not more complicated,” Loan said.

Catering and Free Delivery

MUSIC FROM 54 ETHNIC GROUPS IN ONE NIGHT The fourth Huong Sac Viet Nam (Vietnam, Scent and Beauty) will take place in Hanoi on Sep. 10 to promote the country’s folk music and other traditions in art and culture. The one-night show will feature the traditional music of Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups as well as a gong performance from The Central Highlands and ca tru (an ancient genre of chamber music from the north). In addition, artists from Vietnam Song, Dance and Music Theatre will also introduce new dances and compositions played on traditional musical instruments, as well as familiar melodies. The performance will take place at Au Co Art Centre in Hanoi.

ANTHRAX HITS THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS Many people in Vietnam’s Northern Highlands have been infected with the lethal anthrax disease in recent months, according to the Vietnam News Agency (VNA). According to the news source, the highly infectious disease, caused by bacillus anthracis bacterium, first appeared in Lai Chau Province, where it has since infected 25 people aged between three years and 50 years plus so far. As well as Lai Chau, other provinces like Dien Bien Phu and Ha Giang have reported cases. Deputy Health Minister Trinh Quan Huan told VNA in an interview that people had contracted the disease from sick cattle. Investigations carried out in Dien Bien Phu and Lai Chau provinces show that the patients came into contact with sick cattle when butchering and eating their meat, which was undercooked. Huan also said that because locals in these provinces have failed to properly bury cattle dying of the disease, the bacterium, which can live for between 30 to 40 years at air temperatures and is still able to cause infections, attaches itself to grass. Therefore, more cattle are infected after eating the tainted grass.

Bell'agio Chianti 2008 Red 12,5% Italy

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: +84 38269080 hoangpanevino@gmail.com

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the talk

THE HANOI TANNOY

THE BUZZ General news, promotions and events around town

Overheard Around Town

AMERICAN COUNSEL BACK IN THE GREEN If Jackfruit were a human, it’d be an overweight third grader who can’t climb the rope in gym class What are you doing tonight? Oh, a friend of a friend is visiting with his friend and another friend This guy lives on a whole different planet and only got a job here because of his uncle. I guess that makes it planet Nepo-tune Please hold the phach sticks up in the air while you speak to the camera. Banh deo are moon cakes. So deo is moon, right? How did the burger challenge go? Well he ate eight burgers then threw up I love rhasta stuff. Me too, you know the idea of having roots, being in the ground, being connected to earth, and to each other through our mutual suffering… Yes! I think? Just another night in BKK: red shirts, fortunetellers, lady boys and swimming pools I don’t know who you are man, but you’re giving me the willies Hey what are you doing in Phnom Penh? I thought you were in London! Is it just me or is every woman in town wearing a flowered hoodie these days?

16 | The Word September 2011

Been missing those free-range chickens, fresh eggs and organic treats? What about quality wine, Tomme cheese or Moc Chau butter? Not to worry, the Tay Ho Weekend Market is up and running again at the same place and time. Starting every Saturday from 9am, the bazaar is held at ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital’s Yard (No 4, Ngo 67, Ngach 67/12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho). Shop there and feel a little healthier. For more information call 01289 090158 or simply email info@ naturallyvietnam.com

MOON CAKES IN THE PLAZA This year, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi's moon cakes come in six flavours. Baked especially for the annual Mid-Autumn Moon Festival this month, the mixed sweet and savoury cakes will range from from the traditional Asian taste of lotus, taro and satay beef through to the more western jambon, pineapple and strawberry. Costing VND 560,000 for a box of four and VND650,000 for a box of eight, the moon cake box sets can either be purchased in the hotel lobby or delivered to your door (as long as you are no further than 5km away from the hotel). For further information and to place an order, call 3823 8888 ext. 8668 or 5305. Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh

MARIGOLD GOES SINGAPORE The Singaporean-managed, boutique Marigold Hotel (17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh) is now providing the “Authentic Tastes of Singapore” in their restaurant, Magnolia Café. Having teamed up with the Lion City’s well-known brand, KNIFE Cooking oil, every customer spending over VND99,000 will receive a complimentary 1 litre bottle of the oil. Expect the menu to include well-known Singaporean dishes such as mee laksa, nasi lemak, a curry or two and possibly even a rendang. The promotion will last until the end of October. For further information call 3734 9988 or email info@ marigoldhotelhanoi.com

The US embassy is now offering non-emergency American citizen services by appointment. Appointments can be made for additional visa pages, regular passport services, consular reports of births abroad and notary services between 1pm and 3pm from Monday to Thursday. The embassy is also available for emergency appointments as well. Visit www.vietnam.usembassy. gov/acs_apointmentnotice.html to schedule an appointment

THE SPA AND THE MOON It’s no secret; a Hanoi summer is hard on the body, mind and at times even the soul. So if now is the moment for you to unwind and escape from the city’s noise and recharge, Lotus Spa and Health Club at the Crowne Plaza has a package to nudge along those slightly reluctant to indulge. The spa is offering a 10 percent discount on all treatments after the purchase of one. In addition, to celebrate the upcoming Mid Autumn Festival, the My Dinh property is putting traditional moon cakes on the menu. Chinese Master Chefs, Can Hong Huang and Zhilin Ye will be the hands behind this year’s batch — a selection of four flavours costing VND460,000 a box “designed to delight the most discerning tastes”. V For more information please contact 6270 6688. Lotus Spa and Health Club is located on Level 4 of Crowne Plaza West Hanoi, Le Duc Tho, My C Dinh, Tu Liem D

LA RESIDENCE GOES FOR THE ‘M’ Already with two hotels in Vietnam under their belt, La Residence in Hue has become the latest property to join the MGallery collection of unique hotels. The 81-year-old boutique property was built at the height of the art deco movement in 1930 as part of the French Governor’s official residence in the former colony of Annam. Its distinctive bowled façade, long horizontal lines and nautical flourishes have made it into a Hue landmark with its 200m frontage along the south bank of the Perfume River (Song Huong).

FOR FANS The English Premier League season has kicked off, and for those West Lake soccer hooligans (just kidding) who can’t live without the sport or prefer to watch football on something larger than a laptop, Son Tinh Lounge Bar’s got you covered. On Sundays, the venue will be projecting games on a large screen with English commentary. Every Sunday starting at 7.30pm at Son Tinh Lounge Bar, 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Check online for the football schedule

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY The Ha Long Delight Package is now available at one of the bay’s best resorts. The package includes a one-night stay and a buffet breakfast and dinner for one or two persons per room. On Saturdays, there is a special themed dinner without any surcharge. The offer is valid until the end of October and costs US$64++/pax twin/double occupancy. The hotel is also running a Saturday Poolside BBQ Dinner. A variety of Ha Long seafood will be on offer. Wait, did we mention there will also be a live Filipino band? The cost is VND520,000++ per adult and VND260++ per child. For more information call 033 384 8108 ext. 6081 or email info@ novotelhalong.com.vn

the talk

the talk SWEET STRINGS

UK PASSES THE BUCK

HOT FOR THE TEACHERS It’s time to head back to school. So to help celebrate the transition, Daluva is throwing a bash on Sep. 9 titled Bak2Skool. With 1980s music as the sound of choice and featuring VietnameseCanadian DJ Linh Phan — aka Superkid — you don’t have to be a teacher to tear it up at this party. Superkid has developed a huge following in Ho Chi Minh City for her riotous Everyone’s a DJ events in bars and clubs around town. So, the cast and crew at Daluva decided to bring her up north to spread the love. Not to be missed, the party starts at 9pm at 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho with sponsorship of door prizes by local brands.

Attention British citizens — UK passport applications will still be sent to the Regional Passport Processing Centre (RPPC) in Hong Kong. However, instead of printing passports at the RPPC, that book to get you into all places will now be printed in the UK. All overseas passport applications are affected by this change, and a higher courier fee will result from the increased security and quality of process. Just so you know.

BELGIAN BEER AND WIFI As well as free WiFi, which is now being offered throughout the Mercure Hanoi La Gare including on the street terrace, this Frenchmanaged property close to Hanoi station will also be putting on a Belgian beer promotion. Starting in the first week of October, each week will see two new special beers on offer providing customers with a unique opportunity to taste authentic Bruxelles lambic (lambic is a distinctive beer coming only from Pajottenland in Belgium). New to Vietnam, the boutique, fruitflavoured brews include Kriek, Gueuze, Pecheresse, Framboise and Faro, and the cost for two beers will start at VND180,000++ rising to VND220,000++. Hanoi Mercure La Gare, 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3944 7766

18 | The Word September 2011

REQUIEM FOR ITALIAN From Sep. 11 to Sep. 17, Pane e Vino will join up with the Vietnam Symphony Orchestra (VNSO) to offer a special three-tiered themed set menu called Verdi Requiem, priced at VND300,000, VND500,000 and VND700,000 per person. Additionally, those who have purchased tickets to the concert at the Opera House will receive a 30 percent discount on the set menu and members of VNSO and the chorus will get one complimentary welcome drink. For more information or to take advantage of the deal, drop by Pane e Vino, 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem

The Austrian embassy plans to bring Hanoians a treat with strings — Harriet Krijgh, the Netherlands born and up-andcoming international cellist. Expect to hear Beethoven’s Triple Concerto at the Hanoi Opera House on Oct. 13 and Oct. 14 as well as Tchaikowski’s Rococo variations on Oct. 16 and Oct. 17. The classically trained, 20-year-old has won much recognition throughout the Netherlands, Austria, Croatia and Germany, and has studied under some of the greats. Her brief visit to Hanoi comes between a tour of the Netherlands and the recording of a vinocello and piano album in Germany. Hanoi Opera House, located at 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem will have more information about ticket reservations. Learn more about Harriet’s music at www. harrietkrijgh.com.

STRETCH IT OUT The top tier yoga studio, Zenith, has loaded up its calendar this September. During the Acro Playground class on Sep. 11, this kid-like and kid-friendly partner yoga workshop will teach you how to fly! Not sure what that means, all the more reason to check it out. From Sep. 16 to Sep. 18, Zenith is hosting a yoga retreat in Mai Chau. And on the 24th and 25th they’ll offer an Iyengar-based workshop, welcoming students of all levels. Contact zenithyoga@ yahoo.com for details or to receive a calendar.

EXOTISSIMO DEALS As ever, this month the tour and flight operator Exotissimo has a number of packages available such as a deal at the Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa, valid until Oct. 31 with a special offer of stay three consecutive nights and pay two-and-a-half only. Priced at US$121 per room per night, the deal includes accommodation in a twin/double standard first floor room with breakfast. Their Siem Reap three-day package (not including flights) is valid until Sep. 30 and costs from US$200 per person for a minimum group of two. The deal includes two nights’ accommodation in a twin/double room at a selected hotel with breakfast, an English speaking tour guide, a half-day tour on the first day including a cruise on the Tonlé Sap, as well as a two-day visit to the Angkor Complex including all entrance fees. For more information email tnd@exotissimo.com or contact their main Hanoi office at 26 Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 2150

AUTUMN MOON The Hilton Hanoi Opera will be howling to the moon on Sep. 11 for their Mid-Autumn Moon Festival Party. Providing a slice of local culture in an elegant setting, the event will include traditional and contemporary game shows tailored for children, singing, dancing, a magic show and a special buffet dinner with a Vietnamese and international menu tailored just for the day. The event takes place in the grand ballroom and starts at 6.30pm. Tickets cost VND920,000 (adults) and VND850,000 (children). Under threes eat for free. For table bookings call 3933 0500 ext. 1817 or 1603

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overscene AIR FRANCE PROMOS

AMCHAM NETWORKING IN HOI AN AmCham is organising its third annual networking weekend in Hoi An from Sep. 16 to Sep. 18. Almost 100 people from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City will attend the weekend getaway held at the Nam Hai resort. Guests will participate in a beach cocktail party, golf tournament, dinner party in Hoi An, and a meeting about the business and investment climate in Vietnam. This year, guests will also join an activity to commemorate Coastal Cleanup Day on Sep. 17. For further information, contact the AmCham Hanoi Office on 04 3934 2790 or visit www.amchamhanoi.com

NO REASON

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

Air France has announced a special offer for passengers travelling to Europe from Oct. 2011 till Mar. 2012. Passengers who travel on economy class can save from US$250 to US$150 and enjoy special fares from US$500 to US$600 for a return ticket. Passengers who travel on premium economy can save US$290 and enjoy 40 percent more space at US$1,470 for a return ticket. Air France currently offers five non-stop flights from between either Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi to Paris, though this number is set to increase to six this winter. These special low fares apply to individual passengers in Vietnam, for sale from Sep. 13 until Oct. 15, 2011 and for departure between Oct. 1, 2011 until Mar. 31, 2012. In other news, as of Sep. 2011, a new partnership programme will be launched to reward Air France Flying Blue members in Vietnam. Flying Blue is Air France’s frequent flyer programme for individual travellers, which enables members to earn and redeem Flying Blue miles on eligible flights with Air France, KLM and Skyteam airline partners. For the first time in Vietnam, Air France has teamed up with over 50 selected partners in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City including bars and restaurants, salons and spas, and shops of all kinds. Flying Blue members will be able to benefit from special attention such as discounts or complimentary extra services upon presentation of their valid Flying Blue membership card. For details and conditions of the special European fares or information on becoming a Flying Blue member, visit www.airfrance.com.vn

The opening of the new bar and grill Tay Tap on Xuan Dieu turned into a riotous but amusing affair

Held in conjunction with The Press Club and The Warehouse, the monthly wine tasting at Tan My Design made a welcome return

FRIDAY GLEE

FOLK SOCIAL On Sep. 15, the Hanoi Social Club will be hosting the first event in a series of folk music nights — kicking off with Meeshle Moon and Scott Ezell. The show starts at 7.30pm. The cover charge will be VND50,000 at the door. However, entry is free for those who order dinner. More info check out the Hanoi Social Club’s facebook page

CONCORDIA GRAND OPENING Concordia International School celebrates its official grand opening on Friday, Sep. 9 at 1.30pm at their campus in Cau Giay. For the occasion, the faculty and friends of Hanoi’s newest international school will be joined by representatives of the education network’s sister schools, Concordia Shanghai and the Hong Kong International School. Concordia parents and members of the Hanoi community will also be present to help celebrate the opening of Hanoi's first educational establishment teaching the American curriculum. Concordia International School, CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay. www.concordiahanoi.org

20 | The Word September 2011

Located in the Fine Arts Museum, well-known bistro and restaurant Matchbox has teamed up with Red Apron to create a Friday night wine-matching menu. Kicking off this month, one of the first menus available will be the three-course set dinner paired with wines from Concha Y Toro. Starting off the meal will be a Caesar salad served up with the Frontera chardonnay. This will be followed by the Aussie scotch fillet steak wrapped in bacon, which will come with the Casillero del Diablo cabernet sauvignon. The meal will then be finished off with a tiramisu and a glass of late harvest sauvignon blanc. Matchbox is located at 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3098. The wine-matching menu will change every Friday

WINE TIME Yes there was a reason you got that credit card. Bacchus Corner is now offering one free glass of wine when you flash your platinum/gold bankcard. Every Thursday, from 5pm to 9pm, the wine shop will also be giving away one free bottle of wine to card holders as well. For more information or to take advantage of this deal, drop by Bacchus Corner at 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem

PHOTOS BY IAN PAYNTON

STYLISH SLEEPWEAR Vietnam is all about the pyjamas. And if you still haven’t found your style or size, the new sleepwear label Nightingale — in partnership with the social enterprise Blue Sphere — has just launched their new line. Get comfortable, be ethical and look stylish. For more information check out www.nightingalepyjamas.blogspot.com

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

IN THE RHYTHM

RHYME AND A BIT OF REASON A poetry performance during last month's Cine Sessions at the Hanoi Cinematheque

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the talk

overscene TEMPLE BAR ANNIVERSARY

PIKNIK ELECTRONIC

BIKINIS SUMMER PARTY @ Q-PUB

FAT CAT BAR

FRIDAY NIGHT ON THE TERRACE

FUNKY BUDDHA

ARTY ORE P FOR M RES AND PICTU AROUND TS TO EVEN N GO W O T COM I. ANO LINKH

insider

what do you hear? some like it hot hanoi calling

NOUVEAU DOSSIER

100% HIP-HOP @ Q-PUB

22 | The Word September 2011

INDRONIL BIRTHDAY @ DALUVA

PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

THE LIFE OPENING

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“Wherever we are, what we hear is mostly noise. When we ignore it, it disturbs us. When we listen to it, we find it fascinating,” wrote acoustic ecology movement pioneer John Cage in 1961.

WHAT DO YOU HEAR? As Hanoi continues to grow, the city’s changing soundscape has some tuning out and others stressing out. Kaitlin Rees explains how to clean your ears and tap into the sounds of old

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

24 | The Word September 2011

So what does Hanoi sound like? “The roar of noise in this city can drive a person insane,” says American Gillian. However, Chau Anh hears things differently. “This is life. There are a lot of sounds in life. I’m not suffering from it.” The sounds that define an environment only really exist when people perceive them, and because perception is a personal experience, people hear different things. For a bustling city like Hanoi, with its number of cars and motorbikes increasing as rapidly as its visitors — many of whom come with a different idea of what normal sounds like — the noise can be overpowering. But as offensive as motorbike honking and techno music pulsating from retail shops may be, there are ways to tune-in to something more. In the late 1960s, R. Murray Schafer launched what became known as the World Soundscape Project. Schafer’s initial goal was to balance and improve the quality of the sound in his city, Vancouver, Canada. The project was based on the notion that listening and noise-making share a direct relationship. He introduced an exercise called “ear cleansing” in which people were asked to listen attentively to the sounds around them as a means of raising awareness. He believed if people could hear what was going on around them, then the sound of the entire city would inherently improve. With initial success, the World Soundscape Project steadily expanded: to other cities in Canada and across Europe, to people who wanted to preserve the sounds that were disappearing in the wake of urbanization and to those who wanted to use their recordings to create music. With “clean” ears, Schafer and his inspired successors recorded their cities and discovered that individuals held rich associations with and attachments to the sounds around them. This past spring, Thierry Bernard Gerrard brought aspects of the World Soundscape Project to Vietnam. As a professor of Sound Design at RMIT in Saigon and a guitarist in the drone metal band Moeth, Thierry has developed quite an ear for sound. During the beginning of this semester, he asked his students to listen, but in a different way than they would normally listen to a teacher. He developed a project to explore the ways that sound, the brain and microphones all work together. For one project, armed with audio recorders his students created a Google map of Saigon that sought to connect sound, memories and the physical layout of the city. “From a balcony, sometimes all we hear is the traffic,” says Thierry. “But when we listen to it later in a quiet

room, isolated from the city, then suddenly, ‘ah, there are some birds too.’ Because of the amplification of the recorder, we can increase the volume of the bird’s melody. So technology can make the ‘natural environment’ reappear.”

Sound experiment Inspired to listen, this author began conducting rudimentary experiments in sound perception amongst local and transplanted Hanoians. Like other cities recorded for the World Soundscape Project, Hanoi has a similar depth of feeling rooted in specific sounds, that is, when they can be heard. While walking through the dark back roads of Tay Ho, discrete sounds that are lost on busy streets are once again audible. While this environment was by no means silent, with a symphony of cicadas and frogs and occasional dog barks, listeners were able to engage with the place a bit more. “The sounds here remind me of the past; I haven’t been here in a long time. The sounds of the insects, the engines far off in the distance, people washing dishes in their homes. It is all so familiar,” says twentysomething Hanoian Nhi. However, of the routes taken by participants, the one near the dyke road at night was the furthest removed from the dirty T Word — traffic. Noise pollution, though far from deadly, does significantly wear on a person. Research states that when the input of sound (what you hear) is in greater proportion to the output of sound (the noises you make), the area is deemed an “authoritative” sonic environment. Such environments are linked to overall feelings of stress and anxiety, increased blood pressure and loss of balance and sleep. “Walking the streets around [The Old Quarter] is not one of the positive aspects of living here. It is always hot, always noisy, not calm,” says Rachel, who moved to Hanoi two months ago. While processing her experience in a much quieter nearby café, Rachel remarked, “In trying to pick apart the noise, break it down into distinct sounds, you end up creating a distance between the sensations and their effect on your brain; it’s more interesting and less uncomfortable.” During a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake, Thao picked up on the subtleties of overheard conversations near the body of water. The sound of water being sprayed on the sidewalk triggered a nostalgic sentiment. She used this sound to note the absence of another reverberation. “The way that rain used to sound on the roofs in my hometown. Now when it rains, buildings don’t have the same sound as before.” Hanoi is, statistically speaking, a loud place. Noise pollution studies in 2009 reveal an average noise level exceeding the generally accepted legal limit by about five decibels during the day and about 26 decibels at night. With violations overlooked, due to the closer attention being paid to water and air pollution, what is there to do? Fines for excessive honking? More public spaces free of vehicle traffic? The conversation should continue; but either way, cleaning our ears out first might help.

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Some like it

HOT

David Stout surveys the capital’s salsa dance floors to learn more about the good, the bad and the sexy

Photos by Dominic Blewett 26 | The Word September 2011

AS THE INSTRUCTOR SOUNDS OFF A numerical cadence, students stumble with their newly learned steps. At S-fire Studio (5 Ngo Gach, Hoan Kiem), the music has yet to start and some already look confused in the beginner level class, while others seem to have the hang of the back and forth motions. Then comes the music. There are few men present to help with the moves that require partners — some of the women wait for their hands to be taken by more seasoned dancers to guide them with their movements. Some look discouraged. Others are smiling.

“After dancing for a few months they can feel the music,” says Bui Khanh Thu, instructor and co-owner of S-fire Studio. “When you dance salsa you become yourself.” Thu first began studying the discipline four years ago when she saw a woman dancing it. She described the experience as “very hot, sexy and interesting”. While she admits that it’s often the sexual nature of salsa that initially turns heads and gets people into the classes, it’s often the community and cardiovascular benefits that keep people sticking around.

The Word September 2011 | 27

“You learn belly dancing just to show your husband or boyfriend,” jokes Thu. “But salsa is for everybody.” “Salsa actually keeps me young,” says 58-year-old Ngo Manh Ninh. Although he was a student of ballroom dancer for eight years, Ninh is now a dedicated salsero. He claims to constantly listen to salsa music outside of class and says he has yet to grow bored of the pulsating beats. During the early days of his obsession with dance, Ninh said his wife had issues with him leaving the house and returning in sweaty jubilation. But after attending a few classes, Ninh says his wife understands that his addiction to the dance floor is a good thing.

In the Beginning There is a romantic assumption that salsa was introduced to Vietnam sometime in the late 1960s by Cuba during one of the Commandante’s famous galas in Havana. Possibly a visiting Vietnamese dignitary was so overcome by salsa’s pulsating rhythms, that he brought tales of his experiences with it back to his homeland where, over time, the steps were introduced to friends in Hanoi, eventually making its way to the masses in the parks. But alas, this isn’t so. In reality, it was a foreign diplomat in 2002 who helped to create what is now Hanoi’s vibrant salsa scene. Vice Ambassador of the Swiss Embassy Raoul Imbach worked to channel the energy that was generated at the Press Club’s Latin Night into the capital’s first salsa classes. After the Sheraton was opened in 2004, the hotel’s Nutz Bar became the scene’s unofficial headquarters. Classes and parties were hosted and foreign experts held workshops. The tight-knit community of dancers that evolved over time became some of the best salseros in the city. “There have been many clubs set up by the first salseras, salseros and their students,” says salsa veteran Nguyen Thuy Ha, who

first learned it as a backup dancer and vocalist in Raoul Imbach’s band, Wild Tortillas. As Ha explains, Hanoi, like most scenes around the globe, primarily follows the LA style, which is regarded as being a much easier discipline to learn when compared to Cuban style. “In LA style, the lead is normally softer… and it’s more romantic and artistic, as I found,” says Ha. “In the Cuban style, the men’s lead is rougher and maybe it’s the reason why most Vietnamese girls, even guys, do not like it.”

Get down With it On a sweltering Wednesday night, a hodgepodge of newbies and seasoned dancers crowd onto the hardwood floor at Melia’s CK Bar (44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem) — one of many such parties that seem to be hosted on a nightly basis around the capital. Absent is the chaos of the fist pump and indulgence of the bump and grind, and present is the bachata, salsa and a little cha cha — public displays of sexuality in the hands of practiced steps. Alcohol consumption is almost nonexistent. “When you drink alcohol, you can’t do some moves like the spins,” explains Nguyen Minh Linh. But at times it can be hard to separate what’s pure emotion and what’s exaggerated bravado at these parties. The dance floor is also a place for instructors to advertise their skills to potential pupils.

28 | The Word September 2011

While avid salsa fiends laud the community that has been created in its wake and the outlet for self-expression it’s provided, others say the scene has room for improvement. Ara Hwang moved to Hanoi about five years ago and quickly became an integral figure in the nascent salsa scene. She taught classes and led workshops at Nutz Bar. “I miss that time because everybody was always there and the place was there for us,” says Ara. While she remains close with some of the friends she made at Nutz, she admits that as the scene has rapidly grown, things have begun to change. No longer are the dance floors full of familiar faces. Globally, social dance scenes have had to deal with unbalanced gender ratios — men stereotypically stay away from the world of practiced steps. If you’re waiting to be asked by a man, Ara says, as a foreign woman, it can be hard to find a dance partner. “After a whole night sometimes I dance one song then go home,” she continues. “Actually, if I’m going to dance salsa now, I go out of the country.” Still things could be worse. Jose Georges, a Spaniard now based in Australia, travels the world teaching and dancing salsa — from the Cook Islands to Karachi where he said salseros sometimes have to hold events in secret. “I see that [Hanoi’s scene] is quite advanced,” says Georges. “With more of a middle class, I think salsa will keep growing.”

"Hanoi, like most scenes around the globe, primarily follows the L.A. style, which is regarded as being a much easier discipline to learn when compared to Cuban style"

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the many faces of hanoi

The Reel Music Man

Photo by Dominic Blewett

FIFTY-SIX-YEAR-OLD NGUYEN DUY BINH believes that when it comes to experiencing music at its best the secret is in the setting, and as his lovingly restored 1970s speakers sing out old Vietnamese love songs across West Lake, it’s hard to find fault in his claim. Binh was posted south while serving in the American War and discovered the reel-to-reel machine for the first time in Saigon. Utterly mesmerised by its sound and appearance, Binh was instantly hooked, “It’s such a basic machine but it illustrates the true sound of music. People pay so much money to try to recreate the sound that these machines convey so simply, but they never achieve it, only the original machines can deliver that quality”. With trendy bars, cafes and restaurants buying antique record players and reel-to-reel machines for decorative purposes, it’s easy to assume that Binh is making a good living from selling off his collection, but he’s quick to reject that idea. “I’m not rich,” he says. “Each time I make a sale I just buy even more machines to restore, I don’t do this to make money — people used to dream about owning machines like these in the 1970s and 1980s, but after the war no-one had any money and the machines were incredibly expensive. Now, though, the economy has improved so those people can come here and finally satisfy their dream of owning one of these machines. I feel I have a duty to keep going for them.”

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Post deployment, Binh returned to Hanoi. He worked in the restaurant opposite Tran Quoc Temple on Thanh Nien and was also teaching himself the mechanics of the reel-toreel machine. Soon enough it was introduced to his working life when he started playing music in the restaurant, which became as famous for its music as it was for its banh tom, or shrimp cakes; Binh’s face lights up as he recalls how it was “the loudest place in Hanoi to hear music. You could hear it all the way down Chu Van An”. After feeding the delicate tape on to the rotating forks, the music would play for 45 minutes, giving Binh enough time to cycle home, work on his restorations, and then return a short time later to play the next tape. Binh eventually turned his lakeside house into a music venue. His machines attracted people from all over the city. “Around that time more and more people wanted to have fun and listen to English and American music,” he explains. “So I played records by ABBA, Boney M and The Carpenters, and sometimes acoustic guitar music, too. I just played what people really wanted to hear.” Quizzed on where the machines are sourced from, Binh explains that he scours the internet and has had items shipped in from England, America, Japan, China, Italy and Denmark. “In the 1970s an entire system of speakers, an amplifier and music player

would cost around the same price as a house,” he says. “So I had to start my collection piece by piece.” Two years ago Binh decided to open his house during the day and called the spot Café Ven Ho Xua — meaning ‘old music next to the lake’. Tree stumps have been fashioned into tables and chairs, and berry-rich trees offer a cool spot from which to observe the water. Giant ants load bright yellow blossom onto their backs and struggle as they carry it away, and bamboo wind chimes elbow each other lightly as they bob around in their carousel. Binh’s collection of reelto-reels and amplifiers stand huddled together in his workshop like customers waiting to be served. Many of the items are in good working order, and many are ongoing projects. If you’re lucky enough to be invited upstairs you will discover that his collection extends in to the realm of towering grandfather clocks (all displaying different times), ancient dustcoated telephones, functioning black and white TVs, yellowing instruction manuals from the 1960s, pristine vintage wooden speakers and what must be some of the earliest turntables in existence. To see Binh’s collection of reel-to-reel machines or to listen to his monumental music collection over a cup of coffee, stop by his café at 4 Yen Phu Ho (a small road that runs along West Lake). — Debbie Clare

Hanoi Calling Hanoi is hardly known for the prowess of its live music scene. But it doesn't always have to be that way. We explore the pressures and issues, and try to work what it takes to turn the capital into a vibrant hub for live music. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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? A Sound

Future With bands and venues coming and going like the changing of seasons, Lizo Glennard breaks down Hanoi’s music scene — where it’s been and where it might be headed

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t was unofficial and unplanned,” recalls Ngo Hoang Kien, with a glint of the glory days in his eyes. “But it was the best night of my stage life.” The bassist of Hanoi’s pioneering nu-metal band, Small Fire, tells his story about the millennium eve 11-and-a-half years ago in Hanoi, when, in a bizarre unfolding of events, his band was given permission to perform outside of official celebrations. With the city in high spirits, an exception for one night only was made. One by one, bands from all across the city arrived at the lake. The party blazed until sunrise. “Rock was considered anti-social… generally, people hated it,” says Kien. Most of the bands that performed that night knew each other. Most had attended the same universities and were exposed to new music that came with recent economic development. No longer did one have to attend the National Conservatory to be a musician – a new era was dawning. Vietnam’s gradual opening up to the international community in the 1990s helped bring in rock and pop trends, while workers returning from the Eastern Bloc and Soviet Union brought back hard trance and techno on cassette tapes. The final embers of turn-of-the-century bands such as Small Fire — who jest that they began making music together “for the groupies, not the money” — have long since burned out. With the privilege of hindsight, it is fair to say that Small Fire and their contemporaries: Gat Tan Day, Atmosphere, Buratinox, The Light, Thuy Trieu Do and Hanoi’s most famous rock band of all time, Buc Tuong, were less of a catalyst for a full-blooded music revolution — they were a sign of what lay ahead. After releasing one album, Against the Flow in 2005, the band called it a day. “We felt stuck,” says vocalist Le Anh Quan. “We were all pursuing different careers in our lives, so we broke up.” In the capital of one of the world’s fastest growing economies, could a band like Small Fire consider pursuing a career in music today? For Quan, the answer remains a resigned rather than a regretful ‘no.’ Then follows the almost inevitable confession. “The only singing I get to do now is in the shower.”

Industrial Strength Over the past quarter of a century, rapid influxes of new products and technologies sparked by the country’s economic development policies have allowed for the evolution of a municipal soundscape that is remarkably different to that of

previous generations. As music becomes more deeply etched into the urban fabric of everyday life, one Vietnamese proverb sheds lights on a pan national karaoke obsession: “Singing often is better than singing well”. A fully winged pop industry is flourishing in both Hanoi and Vietnam. Cashing in on widespread tastes that crave East Asian-inspired pop, Vietnam’s mainstream music scene harbours a world of divas, boy bands, risqué fashion and the occasional celebrity scandal. In spite of all this, or perhaps because of all this, many branches of contemporary and popular music have been left somewhat adrift. Often genres like rock, hip-hop and electronica are labelled as ‘underground’ or ‘experimental’. Major trends and sounds that are favoured by the mainstream audience are in place, which makes going against the grain all that much in harder in a culture where such a move is often not rewarded. Those outside of the mainstream are often brushed aside and left to nibble on the crumbs of the expanding, popular music industry pie. With little official support set aside for contemporary arts in Vietnam, investments in musicians and promotions outside of the mainstream industry, until recently, were shouldered primarily by international cultural offices in Hanoi such as L’Espace, the Goethe Institut and The British Council.

The Melody of Change But things have begun to evolve. Music from Vietnam’s proverbial fringes is starting to attract and convince corporate companies to carry a portion of the financial burden needed to build a vibrant, diverse scene. Commercial giants Mobifone, Honda, Yamaha, Pepsi and Tiger have all been quick to capitalise on the country’s expanding rock and hip-hop markets by sponsoring successful large events such as Rock Storm and Tiger Translate. As well as being great for the bands and fans, these events serve as an important checkpoint for the music scene — no longer are corporations solely interested in just divas and K-Pop inspired melodies. Outside of corporate backers, independent outfits such as C.A.M.A, Hanoi Rock City and Synergy have begun to fill in the capital’s promotional gaps. Pioneering composers such as Kim Ngoc and electronic artist Tri Minh are also taking a proactive role in their own fate by organising large-scale events such as Hanoi New Music Meeting and Hanoi Sound Stuff which seek to promote a whole host of Vietnamese artists and genres that fall in categories outside of the mainstream. A solid platform for the music scene could finally be beginning to set, but success has been limited

Some musicians and fans remain unconvinced about the future. One immediate and evident problem is that the number of people in Hanoi who are really interested in a music scene outside of pop divas and karaoke bars is small. “Maybe [audiences] prefer to watch lip syncing concerts on television,” noise guitarist Nguyen Manh Hung laments. After all, there is no shortage of karaoke establisments in the capital, but music clubs have a poor survival rate. Matador, Blues Bar, Ban Mai café, the old Heresy and Black Pearl have all shut down in the last three years. Still, others are more upbeat. “It’s always easy to be cynical about art. People tend to stop being cynical only when a thing becomes history,” says one music venue owner who prefers to remain anonymous. But music isn’t paying all the bills yet — this particular entrepreneur has to keep his day job to make ends meet. He adds: “I'm delighted to see younger kids now have what I did not have at their age in Hanoi: quality equipment, a studio in their parents’ dining room, the internet and most importantly, a commitment to writing original music. I don’t feel cynical at all.” For any and every music fan here who has gone thirsty, it can be refreshing to remember at times that, although one might have to work harder and wait a little longer to find what they are looking for in Vietnam, there is also a certain privilege in witnessing the lion roll his head before he roars. In a city like Hanoi and in an industry like music where things can change on a whim, who knows — one day the roar may be so mammoth, it might even be heard on the other side of the world.

“Those outside of the mainstream are often brushed aside and left to nibble on the crumbs of the expanding, popular music industry pie”

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NOW Faces in the

1. NGUYEN VINH TIEN

2. NGOC KHUE

Songwriter, architect, poet and writer

Singer in Flamenco, soloist

Genre: Contemporary folk Influences: Ngoc Dai, Le Minh Son, Giang Son, Nguyen Duc Cuong and Le Thanh Tam Required listening: Giot Suong Bay Len and Ba Toi off the Fog Drop album Where to see/hear: YouTube

Genre: Northern Vietnamese folk fused with blues, jazz, rock and pop Influences: Bjork, Nguyen Cuong, Pho Duc Phuong, Nguyen Vinh Tien and Le Minh Son Required listening: Ben Bo Ao Nha Minh which appears on the album of the same name Where to see/hear: baamboo.com and nhacso.net

“I think the crucial thing to make a song go beyond Vietnam — to the world — is to have English words in them… or French, Spanish, or other popular languages”

“People have given me so many nicknames such as The Red Dragonfly or Thi Mau [a character in a Vietnamese folk tale], which are very close to nature, the countryside, and rich in culture. I like them all”

3. PHO AN MY

4. HOANG THUY LINH

Pianist, collaborates with composer Dang Tue Nguyen

Singer, actress

Genre: Piano compositions mixed with Vietnamese folk music Influences: Ludwig van Beethoven, Sergei Prokofiev, Vietnamese folk music and traditional rituals Required listening: “Each song is different, and every time I play it, I make it better. So there is no perfect song yet” Where to see/hear: phoanmy.com

Genre: Pop Influences: Beyonce, Britney Spears, Celine Dion and Whitney Houston Required listening: Nhip Dap Trai Tim Where to see/hear: hoangthuylinh.vn

"I think every artist when performing are not themselves anymore… they have a different spirit in their body”

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“I’m like two different people when I’m on the stage and in daily life. On the stage, I’m strong, hot and full of ambition and like to show off. But in daily life, I’m pretty closed.”

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7. DAC THIEN QUYEN Tenor and soprano saxophonist, pianist and drummer Genre: Standard jazz with hints of traditional Vietnamese folk Influences: His father (Minh Van Quyen), John Coltrane, Branford Marsalis, Joe Lovano and George Garzone Required listening: North and South Improvisation Where to see/hear: Minh’s Jazz Club (65 Quan Su, Hoan Kiem)

“We will never play jazz like Americans or Europeans. When we play jazz — it’s Vietnamese jazz”

7 5. UYEN LINH

8. PHUONG DANG

Singer, winner of Viet Nam Idol 2010

Songwriter, pianist, cover artist

Genre: Pop Influences: Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston Required listening: Chi La Giac Mo Where to see/hear: All events are announced through Thanh Viet Production Ltd. or on Facebook

Genre: Piano rock with an edgy, classical sound Influences: Fiona Apple, Muse, Portishead and Tori Amos Required listening: Stay tuned for future recordings Where to see/hear: Every Tuesday night at Cinematheque (22a Hai Bai Trung, Hoan Liem)

"Winning Vietnam Idol 2010 was really a turning point in my life. I didn’t study music before, but now I have to become a singer.”

“There is so much lost in recordings — all that energy”

6. BUSH LAM

9 .DAI LAM LINH

Bassist in AKAT and Sky Burial, dub head DJ

Dai = composer and pianist; Lam and Linh = vocals

Genre: Bands = psychedelic metal; DJ = dub step and reggae Influences: Om, Sleep, Black Sabbath, Burning Spear, Peter Tosh, King Tubby and Flying Lotus Required listening: An May by AKAT Where to see/hear: DJ at Hanoi Rock City, host of Skank the Tank and runs promotions put on by Wasted Youth of a Nation

“How strong is your passion? That is the question”

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Genre: Experimental sounds grounded in Vietnamese traditions Influences: Various artists who explore new territories of music Required listening: Check out documentary Hanoi Eclipse, which follows the story of the band’s creation, recording and performances Where to see/hear: The band is currently on hiatus but their debut album can be purchased through Facebook

“When you say something with words, people can understand what you mean. But when you communicate with something outside of language, people can feel it on a much deeper level”

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10. VU NHAT TAN Composer, instructor at Hanoi Conservatory of Music, performs electronic improvisations with the Vu Nhat Tan Group Genre: Experimental, soundscapes and improv Influences: Ton That Tiet Required listening: Sleepless Night Where to see/hear: www.myspace.com/vunhattan or vunhattan.multipy. com

“What I’m asking from Vietnamese musicians is more creativity and more of their own ideas, rather than just copying”

11. SCOTT EZELL

13. TRAN THI KIM NGOC

Singer/songwriter, painter, writer, composer

Composer, Pianist, Vocalist

Genres: folk, ambient and electronic compositions Influences: Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen and Tom Waits Required listening: Exiles In Love, Electroluminex and Migrations (with Vu Nhat Tan Group) Where to see/hear: Performs at various venues around town both as a solo artist and with Vu Nhat Tan Group. Also check out www.scottezell. org

Genre: Experimental theatre music Influences: Mauricio Kagel, Manos Tsangaris Required listening/watching: Together Alone - Cung Nhau Don Doc. Where to see/hear: Goethe Institut, L’Espace and British Council websites

“What I feel inspired by is a genuine self-expression and an integrity in the creative process or effort”

“Artists are like birds, they only make a land home if it is prosperous enough for them to develop”

12. HA DINH HUY

14. GOLEM

Percussionist

Indie rock group

Genre: Plays with bands that perform jazz, punk, salsa, flamenco, improvised electro and traditional Vietnamese folk Influences: Santana, Chick Corea and Raul Rekow Required listening: See it live Where to see/hear: Sandbox (12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh) on Wednesday and Friday. Also performs at New Square accompanying DJs and Minh’s Jazz Club on occasion

Genre: Indie/punk Influences: Yeah, Yeah, Yeahs Required listening: Stay tuned for future recordings Where to see/hear: Various venues around town

“People focus too much on our gender, they don’t care about our music”

“Western musicians are 90 percent passion and only 10 percent ability, while Vietnamese musicians are 90 percent ability with only 10 percent passion. And I’m the 10 percent”

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The Word September 2011 | 39

$ The

Blueprint The future’s bright for Vietnam’s music industry — especially if homegrown artists can learn a lesson or two from the foreign influences they’re exposed to. Words by Debbie Clare

he soundtrack to life in Vietnam is as rich and varied as the food on its streets and the colour in its markets, and barely a metre can be travelled before music demands your attention. Music is in everything, and the unrelenting, constant presence of it makes for opportunities in an industry that is starting to realise its own potential in a fast-developing Asian market place. In music industries worldwide, working bands and artists signed to major labels, over time, acquire a team of polished, experienced music industry experts. To sign a record deal there are lawyers, and to make sure the music is put to work, there’s a publisher. To tour there must be an agent, when on tour there’s a tour manager, a sound engineer, a guitar tech, a front of house manager, a monitor engineer and a lighting designer. But you can’t have a tour without publicity, and for that you need a TV and radio publicist and a digital PR agency. Musicians need

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managers too… and a recording studio, and a video, and a producer, and an art-worker and a merchandising company. And a few additional things I’ve probably managed to forget after years of working in the industry. So what happens when you remove the majority of those roles and go back a few decades to when global markets were less saturated by a production line of indie bands and pop idols? Welcome to present day Vietnam where, to some, listening to music is still considered a luxury, and for musicians it’s a way of life, who often keep a day job and perform whenever possible.

By Popular Demand

But Vietnam’s music industry is not entirely undeveloped — leading industry players such as Yan TV and XONE FM are able to boast viewing and listening figures rolling into the tens of millions. Both outfits offer a fully interactive system whereby music fans have a direct link to those stations and can demand what they want to hear and which artists they want to help make popular. XONE FM, Vietnam’s first popular hits commercial radio programme for the

country’s youth, has more than 11 million listeners a day with an equal distribution of subscribers in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and 80 percent of its listeners are under 30. The company’s co-founder and director Brenden Arnold explains the relationship between the station and their listeners. “There’s not one main record chart in Vietnam, so we created four charts that reflect the three main music categories,” he explains. “So we have three daily top ten countdown charts consisting of the Vietnamese top ten, international top ten and the Asian top ten, and one weekly compilation countdown, plus the national top 40 on the weekends. The ranking of songs is based on listeners emailing us or voting on our website, so our charts directly mirror what the population is demanding to hear.” With a playlist that features 60 percent foreign music and 40 percent Vietnamese, Brenden explains how XONE FM supports and encourages local talent. “We are always open to hearing music by local artists,” he says. “When a band, artist or talent management company approaches us with new material, we support them by offering free studio time and promotion. We try to bring the freshest new music to Vietnam, and local talent is an important part of that.” 70 percent of XONE FM’s listeners tune in on their mobile phones and broadcasts can also be streamed online, which is crucial in a country where paying for music is not a common practise.

On the Pulse Yan TV, the country’s leading music and youth entertainment channel, employs a similar method — viewers can demand which artists they want to see. The television channel’s project leader, Khuong Van Cuong, describes how the system works. “We have over five million viewers across our SCTV, HCTV, VCTC and K+ stations, and six websites that have over 53 million page views per month,” he says. “What we broadcast is based on public demand and we have a team of music experts and researchers. Our viewers are aged between 15 and 34 and are outgoing, into fashion and hungry for music.” Cuong describes the importance of keeping a finger on the pulse of what’s happening

with music internationally. “We want to shorten the gap between Vietnam and the rest of the world in terms of music, so we’re deeply committed to seeking out new sounds from around the world and introducing them to the Vietnamese market,” he says. “We work with Sony BMG, Universal and Mnet (Han Quoc) to make sure we’re always totally up to date with what’s new and hot.” And Yan TV also has it’s own music chart called Yan VPOP20, which is entirely based on weekly viewer votes. So how does an artist go from playing at home to making a record good enough to be considered for radio or TV? Well, record companies do exist in Vietnam, although they seem to be more about providing facilities for musicians to rehearse, record and obtain advice. Music Faces, a talent management company based in Ho Chi Minh City, specialises in providing production, publishing and recording services to new and established musicians. The enterprise strives to “build a professional playground for new faces and music genres to develop” and claims to be Vietnam’s first fully-functioning distribution and publishing company. They also offer payment advances on signing — a practice that could soon be phased out at major, international record labels.

Day Jobs Needed Le Anh Tuan and Tran Nam Thang manage Hanoi’s underground live music venue Polygon, and are both working musicians and business owners. They describe how the DIY (do it yourself) ethos is still very much the driving force behind the majority of up and coming artists in Vietnam. “It’s very, very rare for a Vietnamese artist or band to have a big enough income from their music to stop them having to take another job,” explains Thang. “Especially with rock music — I can’t think of one high-profile act who doesn’t have a day job. I think the live sector is the only place for them to make money from their music.” Much of the challenge in earning an income from music in Vietnam comes from rampant piracy. In a market flooded with pirated content, authorities have been trying to curb the scourge by issuing physical stamps that authenticate the origin of the recording. The Ministry of Culture, Sport and Tourism created the stamps for the

music industry around 10 years ago, but many individuals who are trying to abide by this system have found it can slow down the production and distribution of music, particularly when a record sells out and a new batch cannot be turned around quick enough to meet demand. Artists can also lose money on the recording if they don’t sell enough copies of the CD to recoup the costs of the stamps. One way round this has been to sell individual tracks via mobile SMS download. At VND1,000 or VND2,000 a go, this has proven an effective way for well-known artists like Pham Anh Khoa to cash in on their success — some tracks have had well over one million downloads to the country’s growing stock of mobile phones. However, even here local websites have found ways to provide the same service to increasingly savvy smartphone users at zero cost. While Vietnamese music continues to grow and expand, the popularity of Korean Pop (K Pop), Chinese Pop (C-Pop) and Japanese Pop (J-Pop) cannot go ignored, as they claim a strong presence in the commercial market place. However, Vietnamese musicians’ hunger and openness to integrating foreign influences into their own music suggests that a potentially rich and exciting future may be on the horizon. Not only for those who love listening to music, but for those who can find a way to turn those dreams of pop stardom into an every day, working reality.

Thanks to: Brenden Arnold Cream

Khuong Van Cuong Yan TV

Le Anh Tuan & Tran Nam Thang Polygon, Hanoi

David Payne Hanoi Ink

Nguyen Duc Tu iCreative Studio

The Word September 2011 | 41

The Conv ersation and an elephant. Schedules at local theatres don’t leave any space for us because they cater to specific audiences. Artists have to find financial support to remain active, and because we don’t have access to these resources, we remain unknown. UYEN LY: Ngoc Dai, you have a lot of experience in this field. What are your thoughts on the state of things?

Nationally renowned journalist Uyen Ly hosts a round table discussion with four ‘underground’ musicians about the obstacles and challenges artists outside of the mainstream face in Vietnam UYEN LY: Thank you everyone for participating in this conversation about the underground music scene in Vietnam. It’s true that many in the expat community in Vietnam are not familiar with your work – despite the fact that you have been in the field for a long time and have achieved a certain amount of success and recognition. So why is this happening? Is there a way to make your work better known? VU NHAT TAN: It’s true that not many people know about us, which is primarily caused by the language barrier and because

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of the nature of the music we play. Most Vietnamese underground artists don’t speak English, and most foreigners don’t speak Vietnamese. There are also very few venues where we can interact. Hanoi Rock City is the biggest meeting point for underground artists in Hanoi. KIM NGOC: Many of us were educated and developed our talent in an academic environment, but we’re part of the underground scene because at the moment contemporary and experimental music isn’t funded like it is in Europe.

European theatres reserve about 80 percent of their calendar space for traditional genres, however; 20 percent is kept for contemporary arts, which helps support young artists and introduces audiences to new material. Meanwhile, in Vietnam, there is no such policy to support young artists. Funding for the contemporary arts is minimal and contemporary scenes don’t receive official support like they do in the US or Europe. In fact, there are funds for underground artists in Vietnam, but when compared to similar programmes in the US, it’s similar to the difference in size between a mouse

NGOC DAI: I think officials haven’t maintained a fair attitude toward contemporary music, and things haven’t really changed much in the last 50 years. As individuals musicians can be uncivil and they’ve failed to cooperate with each other. And still, many artists are not musically proficient and they lack professionalism. Not to mention, few are able to manage a production or a show by themselves. If a foreigner wants to know about the contemporary art scene in Vietnam, they need to know somebody who can help them find us. We focus on performance solely. We don’t know how to organise or connect with people. Artists like us are passive. We have difficulties because we don’t have a manager or a promoter. And if a performance is left to an individual to organise, it’s often beyond their capability. It’s impossible to find a team that can do good work consistently – whether it’s a music academy or a decent promoter. We often run into organisation difficulties when the project is more ambitious. But of course, we’ve chosen to walk down this road and we have to accept the challenges that come with experimental music. The first programme that Dai Lam Linh did was at the Opera House and I organised it. We received a lot of support from foreigners. It would be great if we could do something like that every two years. But I can’t because we would need to work closely with the band and singers and would need a lot of time to rehearse. We can’t work independently like Ngoc or Tan. I would also need sponsors for such a programme. There was a time when we received up to US$80,000 in funds, but those days are long gone now. UYEN LY: Vietnam is now classified as a middle-income country, so it’s hard to receive as many grants and funds as we once did. Cultural centres, who once sponsored underground artists, have now had to trim their budgets. So what will you do when there is no more funding available? By the

way, I have a question for Bush Lam, the youngest member in our conversation today. Your group has been running without any financial assistance, right?

BUSH: When nobody knows who you are and no one is offering to help you, you have to rely on yourself. Whether you will be successful or not really depends on your attitude and your goals – whether that is to earn a lot of money, to become famous or to play for the sake of it? For me, being able to play my music – for myself – is already awesome. Fortunately, people in my group all have other jobs so we are able to use the money that we earn from those jobs to support our music. If you want to play music on your own, then you have to earn money to support yourself. I want to get rid of this idea that I should receive thousands of dollars in funding. I’m still young, so I should start with smaller projects. I should work on small shows first, and then bigger promotions will come. During our first two or three shows, we only had a dozen or so people in the audience – half of them were our friends. Then the size of the audience gradually got bigger. Compared to our shows’ a year and a half ago, we’ve grown in popularity. Fortunately, in the last seven or eight months, all of our shows have been packed. Some foreigners in the audience said that they came to see us because they thought we were pure and passionate on stage. They also said that we were different. That’s encouraging. VU NHAT TAN: With underground music, organising your own shows, playing your own music and spending your own money is a good path to take, but I passed that stage a long time ago — probably 15 years ago. Now I can’t continue. NGOC DAI: One thing that makes what we do different from what Bush Lam does is the fact that we are in a certain position that requires us to hold a big event annually – just like other professional artists. So we need huge investments, which is very hard to find with our current situation. Of course I still want the audiences to come to see us. There isn’t an artist out there who wouldn’t want that. VU NHAT TAN: Our group has organised international electronic music festivals. When we were DJing we had a huge crowd,

but when we started playing our music they left. Although we did organise the events, we suffered a financial loss. We will probably have to stop hosting these types of events. UYEN LY: So far we have heard about the challenges that all of you are facing. Let’s go back to Bush’s story. Do you plan to host any big shows in the future? What would you do if you faced similar challenges? BUSH LAM: That’s still a long ways away. I wouldn’t dare to think about doing such an event now, and actually I haven’t given much thought to it. I think there are already many several large music events in Vietnam, but only a few smaller promotions that are selective and have quality acts. So we’ll just stay where we are for now. KIM NGOC: What Bush has just said makes me feel embarrassed because I don’t have as much passion as a young artist like Bush Lam does. I don’t have the passion that I used to have to keep performing in such a pure way. But I am unable to overcome that embarrassment to go back to the old days, and as Tan said we moved out of that stage a long time ago. Artists perform with their intuition and in general, they are passive. Let’s set aside the audience and musical taste for a moment, first we need to preserve our passion to play music anywhere and no matter what. To organise one’s own events or shows may work well for many artists. Artists can’t be too passive – they need to be more independent and stronger. They need to find their own audiences and to organise their programmes on their own. And by doing this, it will help them preserve their love for music. NGOC DAI: That’s exactly our plan. I’m hoping to open a café. To be honest, I only need to have a really good piano and two artists to perform spontaneously with. But we’re having a problem because we haven’t been able find a suitable space. UYEN LY: So you’ll keeping looking for a new place, won’t you? The Word’s readers will hopefully have a chance to hear you play regularly, right? I hope you don’t give up. Thank you everyone so much for being very open during this conversation.

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SULAWESI, INDONESIA A photographer’s journey into the world’s eleventh largest island WORDS & PHOTOS BY GALEN STOLEE

aving spent a little time on Java and Bali, I really thought I had Indonesia figured out. After all, if you've seen one island you've seen them all, right? Sulawesi was a bit of a slap in the face to my naivety. What I discovered there were two entirely separate cultures, as different from that of Java (and from each other) as any country in Southeast Asia is from its neighbours. Whether it was giant boat-shaped Tongkonan houses jutting out of dense forests, or entire villages sitting on stilts in the middle of open water, there seemed to be no end to the anthropological feast. Connected to these cultures I also experienced the absolute extremes of South Pacific geography. Travelling by land, over the span of 24 hours I went from cool rugged highlands to lush equatorial islands surrounded by overpowering blue waters. Ultimately it was an experience like no other — a trip into the heart of Indonesian island culture.

Sunset over Malenge — one of many islands in the Togean archipelago

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SULAWESI, INDONESIA

The ceremonial grounds at Tapparan are used by many villages in the surrounding area for funerals

Bajo children take turns leaping off the village walkways into the cool water underneath

A Bajo man waits in his kitchen for his sons to return with fresh fish to cook for dinner

Just an hour before, the skies were clear and temperatures were above 90 degrees. Now a young Bajo boy shivers in the rain after climbing out of the water after a swim

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The Word September 2011 | 47

SULAWESI, INDONESIA

TANA TORAJA

TOGEAN ISLANDS

I had wanted to visit the region of Tana Toraja ever since I first heard about it in a religious studies class at university. With a fascinating polytheistic mix of animist Aluk traditions and western religion, the Torajan ceremonial rites are some of the most unique in the world. This is particularly true when it comes to funerals, which take weeks, months, even years to plan, and often last for an entire week. From lavish spectacles of dance and music, to the placing of the coffin into the sides of cliffs or hanging from trees, it’s truly a transformative experience. I had the privilege of attending a funeral on the third day, which featured possibly the most notorious of rituals: the buffalo slaughter.

With impeccable beaches and some of the best diving in Southeast Asia, it's fair to say that the Togean Islands have a lot going for them. But what really drew us in, and what kept us there, was the incredible sea culture. Located just offshore on stilt houses, the nomadic Bajo people — known to mainlanders as "sea gypsies" — are so isolated from the land that an NGO recently came in to build a footbridge connecting the village to the main island just so the children didn't have to swim to school every morning. The Bajo are quickly modernising, exporting their fish and clams in exchange for satellite dishes and televisions. But the soul of their seaborne nature remains, down to the simple pleasure received by swimming freely in the open sea.

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The Word September 2011 | 49

The

PIONEERS

IN THE EARLY 1990s, I SAILED ACROSS the sea to Estonia and found myself in Tallinn – the newly independent nation’s capital. It was my first visit to the former Eastern Bloc. The buildings were all grey, concrete monoliths. The streets were eerily quiet and the trams, whose conductors hadn’t been paid for months, were all free. Ladas, Skodas and Yugos together with the occasional German-built car — usually a jet black Mercedes with blacked-out windows — roamed the town. It was a new world. It took until I ventured into the city’s old town, a medieval-built 11th century enclave of cobblestone streets and lavish buildings, that I started to feel more at home. Here, despite the newness of this nation’s freedom and Estonia’s place as the runt of a reconstructed Europe, there was already an Irish pub and an Italian restaurant. Sat in the restaurant, I got talking to three Italian travellers all in their early 20s. Like myself they were exploring and gradually heading for Poland. And like myself they were blown away by their discovery. Tallinn was a forgotten gem.

Blazing the Trail

We take for granted the myriad of international cuisine available in Hanoi. But it wasn’t always that way. And even now what’s on offer can fall short. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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Around the same time, Hanoi, too, was casting off its Cold War shackles. With its crumbling colonial façade still oddly intact, the Vietnamese capital was raw, preparing itself in its own haphazard fashion for a more golden future. Although the Gallicinfluenced restaurants arrived first — after all, Hanoi was once the capital of French Indochina —like Tallinn, when it came to cuisine many of the pioneers were from Italy. “I started working there as wine waiter,” explains Nguyen Xuan Hoang of Il Grillo, the first Italian restaurant in Hanoi. Now the man behind Pane e Vino, he has fond memories of those early days. “It was actually easier then compared to now because back then there were fewer restaurants and we had a lot more clients,” he continues. “We had investors from Hong Kong and Singapore in the city, coming in late because back then it was difficult to find a dining spot at around 10pm or 11pm.

These guys were spending US$300 on a bottle of wine. At the time, 90 percent of our customers were foreign.” Leonardo Fazioli from Meditteraneo on Nha Tho also remembers the early days. “Back in 1997 it wasn’t easy at all to get the ingredients,” he says. Zucchini, tomatoes, parsley — all very simple items, were hard to get a hold of. “Fortunately, at that time everyone knew the conditions we had to operate under — the public was much more able to turn a blind eye to authenticity than now.”

Growing Pains As Hanoi and its Estonian counterpart have removed one mask and replaced it with another, so in the short space of just over a decade the challenges of running a restaurant in this brave new world have evolved. No longer is sourcing ingredients an issue — almost every condiment, meat, cheese and vegetable can be purchased in Hanoi. The range of Italian wines available has also undergone a sea change — virtually every grape varietal and region is now represented here. And as Vietnam has globalized and its population yearns for new experience, so even the clientele has transformed — speak to Paolo De Piaggi of Da Paolo and he will tell you that now 70 to 80 percent of his customers are Asian. But as Hanoians have tried to adapt to changing times, the proprietors of the city’s Italian restaurants have taken a stand. “Japanese customers are very good, they just trust you,” continues Paolo. “The Vietnamese are much more difficult, they’ll complain if they feel that the pasta is too hard. But they’re curious to have an experience.” “We don’t have to adapt the taste,” adds Luna d’Autonno’s Gino Benelli, Paolo’s former business partner. “They have to get used to the food. I help by telling my staff to propose dishes that are similar to Vietnamese cuisine. The Vietnamese don’t like much cream, butter or cheese. So we recommend dishes without these ingredients.”

It is a sentiment with which everyone agrees, although Hoang admits to until recently telling his staff to adapt the cooking style to fit with the customer — pasta cooked al dente (so that it is still firm when bitten) for westerners and soft, noodle-style pasta for Asians. “But this year I’ve decided to go against this and have made it easy for everybody,” he says. “Now I write on the menu that our pasta is prepared al dente. Most of our Vietnamese customers are happy with it”.

The Double-Edged Sword Despite these successes, Italian cuisine has also shown itself to be its own worst enemy. Relatively inexpensive and easy to prepare, it works well with the Asian palate and dining experience. This has caused popularity and the accompanying replication. While a handful of restaurants in the capital continue to serve authentic fare, a far larger proportion labeling themselves nominally ‘Italian’ have adapted the cuisine to Vietnam. What emerges is a pale and often dissimilar version of its former self. And it’s not just Vietnam that has done this, the world over has given the fare a new look. It’s a fate that the pioneers don’t take too well. “There are so many fake Italian restaurants now it’s incredible,” says Gino. “It’s a pity because they give Italian food a bad image.” From Hoang to Leonardo, Gino to Paolo, all four of them have a common goal, to, as Leonardo describes it, try and “put Italian taste on the table, and bring authentic Italian fare to Hanoi”. Having brought international cuisine to climes as far apart as Tallinn and Hanoi, the Italians face a new struggle. In a globalizing world where cultures merge and lines become blurred, now they’re striving to maintain authenticity. It’s a thankless task.

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MYSTERY DINER

STREET SNACKER

Ola de Tapas

Pan Asian Noodles

Our secret reviewer heads to probably the city’s only truly dedicated Spanish restaurant. Photos by Dominic Blewett I HAD HIGH HOPES ON VISITING OLA de Tapas, Hanoi’s first dedicated Spanish restaurant. I know that La Salsa does tapas, but the Franco-slant of the main courses rather indicates where their culinary priorities lie. On first impressions I was bowled over by the place, it felt right — all lavishly bright colours, gigantic bar, wooden ceiling beams, debateable taste in Spanish rock-pop providing background, Iberian knick-knacks and wooden furniture. If décor alone was enough to determine food reviews, I’d have given the place high marks for ambience alone. But unfortunately, as is so often the case in Hanoi, even the most well-designed places succeed or fail based on the food — though there are notable exceptions that prove this rule. Wild Lotus and Club de l’Oriental, I’m looking at you. I made a mental note in advance to opt for the paella, and despite an attempt to go for the more summer friendly arroz meloso de gambas y esparrgos (Spanish rice with shrimp and asparagus), we instead were steered by the owner toward the arroz meloso de setas y salchicha (Spanish rice with cepes mushrooms and sausage) (VND220,000). This we were told was a more gloopy and equally well-known Valencia take on traditional paella, meaning the stock had not been entirely absorbed into the rice. This concentration, while adding a nice bulk to the overall deep smoky tang, may have caused the dish to be slightly over-salted in my opinion, despite

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the pleasant fresh mushrooms and good, robustly flavoured sausage. The heaviness of the paella was leavened somewhat by some slinky, silvery shards of fresh anchovies which were drizzled in a light oil, a dusting of herbs and accompanied by green plump olives (VND50,000) — the zappy saltiness and brine proving a real treat. However, the judias con jamon (VND50,000) or green beans with ham in tomato sauce did not fair so well. Frankly, I thought although in theory the dish could have been fine on another occasion, the beans were well past their sell by date. Tapas is nothing without good quality ingredients. The queso manchego certainly didn’t suffer from quality-issues, with a few simple slices of the chalky salty cheese resting in light oil proving full of pep (VND70,000). I was also very happy with the huevos rotos (Broken Eggs) at VND50,000. This was a great ensemble of fried egg, wafer-thin potato crisps/chips and good sausage — rustic and simple but ultimately satisfying. To round things off we opted for the homemade mango ice cream and a crème caramel style dessert called flan de manzana a la Antigua that consisted of all the goodness of its French cousin, but with the added subtle hint of apple (VND55,000), which combined with an authentic aromatic rich café con leche (VND45,000) are reasons enough for a return. If those dishes don’t take your fancy, I’d opt for a reasonable patatas bravas

(fried potatoes with garlic mayo aioli and sprinkling of paprika) at VND35,000, or a truly great tortilla de atun y pimiento (tuna and bell pepper pan-grilled omelette for want of a better word) at VND40,000. In conclusion, I’m really hoping that some of the disappointments on the menu will see marked improvements, as lurking beneath the surface is a very good restaurant ready to come out. Hats off to the owners for this promising start.

THE VERDICT

Food: 8 Décor : 9 Service: 8 The Word reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for all meals

Kaitlin Rees sits down at one of the capital’s newer noodle carts, an outlet offering 'Korean' noodles in a sanctified setting. Photos by Dominic Blewett SITUATED IN FRONT OF AN OLD Buddhist temple, the noodle cart Mi Han Quoc (77 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem) provides diners with one of the city’s holier environments to indulge in a unique take on the normal noodle. Moments after sitting down and making an order, a colourful mound of food is placed on the table — a healthy serving of Korean noodles with pork and beef, along with peanuts, fried sweet potatoes, squid and sprouts, all topped off with leafy greens. With only one dish on the menu (priced at VND30,000), agonizing over what to order is not allowed. The duo serving food — a throaty mother and daughter — work with the efficiency of a well-oiled machine. As owners of the neighbouring tra chanh stand, they started helping out with the noodle service on busy nights. Helpfulness, like the raspy voices, is apparently a trait shared by both mother and daughter. For example, if a customer happens to roll up with a recently broken bicycle chain, there might not be a moment’s hesitation before

one of the two graciously reattaches it. Of course, no promises on this one.

A Twist What is promised is the tasty combination of dried meats and fried sweet potatoes with Korean noodles. A container of mayonnaise is available and advisable to add to the dish before mixing. The dish also offers a variety of textures: smooth saucy noodles, crunchy bites of potato and peanut, and cool green herbs and sprouts. The sauce is the owner’s twist on Singaporean flavors, while the noodles are a Korean style of ramen. Some questions may arise concerning the advertised Mi Han Quoc sign outside, since authentic Korean cuisine is not actually offered here. But regardless, the noodles are different and delicious. Owner Pham Van An set up the stand just a few months ago to compliment his larger restaurant on 66 Thanh Luong, Hai Ba Trung. In the restaurant’s kitchen he prepares the ingredients necessary for the stall’s lone staple. He blends red chillies

and a five-seasoning combination that he later coats onto the beef before drying it, which as a finished product looks similar to bacon. These savoury and tender strips mix well with the sweet and mild spices in the dish that provide balanced bite after balanced bite. The second kind of meat, a mixture of pork and beef that is also hand prepared, contains all the pleasures of any good mystery meat. In reference to his choices of ingredients, An says that he wanted to create something novel with influences from Singaporean and Korean cuisine, while still appealing to the Vietnamese palate. Dried bananas, for instance, could be substituted for the sweet potatoes. Open from 4pm to 10pm, Mi Han Quoc’s central location provides the capital’s urban dwellers with a convenient after-work eatery. With friendly characters running the show, and the juxtaposition between Buddhism and mobile karaoke singers that drift by on occasion, the spot offers a meal with a mood. And here there is no rushing the post-dining toothpicks and chatter.

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After documenting last month’s parties, Thanh Nguyen of ilovesorbet. blogspot.com takes his eye for fashion back to the capital’s streets

Liu

Anna

Carolin

Nationality: Dutch Style: Vintage Clothes: Bag and blouse are from markets in Myanmar, espadrilles from Havaianes in Amsterdam. The trousers are from a friend

Nationality: German Style: Mix of vintage and small boutique finds Clothes: Dress is secondhand. Leather sandals are from a boutique in Cape Town

Nationality: Vietnamese Occupation: Fashion columnist Style: Daring and elegant Clothes: I’m wearing a flower print dress from Indonesia and Ray Ban aviators. My favourite shop is L’Usine in Saigon

Kate Nationality: British Job: Fashion designer Style: Relaxed and quirky Clothes: I designed the dress and had it made in Hoi An. The bag is from India and sandals are from Office — a shop in London

Bart and his daughter Lotje Nationality: Dutch Occupation: Mathematician at Dutch Aerospace Laboratory NLR Style: Clothes should be easy, classic and colourful Clothes: The jacket is from The English Hatter and shorts are Sissy Boy. I‘m wearing an Italian tailor-made shirt and Kenzo shoes

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Yusuke

Huyen

Nationality: Japanese Occupation: Teacher Style: Americana Clothes: The embroidered polo shirt is Nike. Sneakers are Converse. The nylon bag is from a vintage store

Nationality: Vietnamese Occupation: Student Style: Simple and low key Clothes: Green dress and pink, plastic wedge sandals from my sister’s shop, Kén. Shades are Uniqlo

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Now and Then This month marks the 66th birthday of an independent Vietnam. French photographer JuLie Vola talks about her long lost family and how an old photo album inspires her work today

here's one question always asked of foreigners living in Vietnam: "What brought you here?" For many, the answer is work, love or travel. I’m here because of photographs — black and white prints of my family’s life in French Indochina. The images — among others in the collection — inspired me to learn more about my relatives and their lives in Vietnam. They lived here for almost 60 years. I can retrace their lives starting around 1885. They were French colonists who first arrived in Hai Phong and then moved to Hanoi for work. One of my relatives was an entrepreneur and the other was a civil engineer for the French government, who documented his life and work with photographs — in particular the construction of the railroad between Hanoi and Lang Son near the Chinese border.

Chinese Border at Lang Son

Building the Northern Railroad

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French Colonists

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Market in Lang Son

My grandfather was born in Hanoi. He lived here until he finished high school in the mid-1930s and went back to France to study medicine. He returned to Vietnam later as the chief of a hospital during the First Indochina War. His sister, who was also born in the capital, lived in Vietnam until the end of World War II. She is still alive, living in France, but her memories have faded as she’s aged. When she was young, she did not care much for France. She was closer to Vietnam. But she has never returned, fearing that a visit would spoil her cherished memories. People often say it's necessary to know where you’ve come from to know where you are going. Such is the case for me. I know very little about my family's colonial past, and I'm curious about the places in these pictures. The landscapes are entangled with history and stories. These photographs inspire me. They’re why I’m here. Now in Vietnam, I’m photographing the northern provinces just like my great, great grandfather once did and in doing so, documenting my own stories about the country’s modern history. To follow JuLie as she retraces the life of her family in colonial Vietnam, visit www.julievola.com

Long Bien Bridge

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Ratattack IT HAS BEEN ESTIMATED THAT THERE ARE UP TO FIVE BILLION RATS ACROSS THE PLANET, WITH MOST OF THEM SEEMING TO LIVE IN HANOI. IT’S TIME TO MEET YOUR NEW HOUSEMATE

The

pest SPECIAL BY GISELLE WHITEAKER

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IN MY NGO THERE LIVES A RAT. IT’S A reclusive rat, not spotted often, but it is the reason all garbage bags are hung from hooks on the wall. I’ve seen it, but only at night as it sneaks along the alley in search of food. It must be skilled at this as it’s quite chubby. It waddles, twitching its nose and peering short-sightedly through its beady red eyes. Comic-book descriptions aside, there is something about him that fills me with dread. The best known rat species, unimaginatively called the black rat and brown rat, originated in Asia. No surprises there. These are called the Old World rats and amusingly are members of the genus rattus. Even more amusing is the roof rat, belonging to the species rattus rattus. There are more than 50 species of true rats worldwide, and far too many of these call Vietnam home. Are rats really that bad? On the plus side, they are opportunistic survivors and social creatures, known to be affectionate. They love being in the company of their own species, but will settle for humans, too. Their hobbies include playing together and sleeping curled up close. They take care of each other, nursing the injured or sick rats in the group. They communicate with each other verbally, using high frequency sounds, as well as by smell, touch and body postures. Going solo they can become lonely, depressed, anxious and stressed. I have never seen my ngo rat with company. Perhaps I should be concerned for its mental health. On the negative side, aren’t rats disease carriers? The Black Death is believed to have killed thousands and rats get the blame for that, but was it really their fault? The rat population at that time was also decimated by the plague, so how were they passing it on? Truth is, it wasn’t them — it was their fleas. The fleas bite the infected rats, and then bite people, so they’re the ones to blame. Rats do carry other diseases, including Weil’s disease, salmonella, tuberculosis, E.Coli and foot and mouth disease. Most of these are spread through rat droppings, urine or saliva, rather than bites, but this doesn’t improve the rat reputation and just makes me wonder

how it ends up being ingested by humans. Working in their favour is the fact that they are very clean animals. They spend several hours each day grooming themselves and each other and are less likely than cats or dogs to transmit viruses. This may explain

RAT FACTS — Rats have poor vision. To compensate for this, a red or pink eyed rat will often weave its head side to side to add motion to see better — Rats don't have thumbs — Rats use their whiskers to compensate for poor sight, so often stick near walls, rather than heading for wide-open spaces — A rat's temperature is regulated though its tail. A really hot rat will lie on its back so that it can sweat through the glands in the soles of its feet — Rats can’t see in colour — A group of rats is fittingly called a mischief. A male rat is a buck; a female is a doe unless pregnant when she becomes a dam, and the offspring are called pups — Rats can't vomit. A rat can, however, gag on something if it eats too quickly — Rats have bellybuttons — Rats can successfully breed as early as six weeks of age and can produce one litter of up to 20 offspring a month until they are two years of age. In theory this means one female rat could produce around 460 babies — Gambian pouch rats have been trained to sniff out mines in war torn countries. They are light enough that they do not trigger the mines

their growing popularity as domestic pets.

Why, You Dirty Rat? Rats are smart. They have good memories so once they learn a navigation route, they never forget it. Tame rats can be taught selected behaviour. Untamed rats teach themselves. They have an excellent sense of taste and can identify substances, including poisons, after just a tiny taste. This is why most rat poison is slow acting. Undetected, the rat continues to consume the toxin until it reaches critical levels. Until recently Warfarin was the poison of choice for the termination of rats, and bizarrely enough for the treatment of blood clotting conditions in humans. Warfarin is an odourless, tasteless anticoagulant that makes the rat bleed to death internally. Not nice. A rat trap may be a better option. There are several types of rat traps available, most of which involve bait. The traditional trap is designed to break the rat’s neck, but that depends on perfect positioning. More often than not it just squashes the rat. Preferable are those that trap the rat inside a cage, but then what do you do with it? In Vietnam another common method is cardboard traps with a layer of glue. The rat steps onto the cardboard and sticks to the glue, the more it struggles the more it becomes stuck. The nasty side effect is that you are left with a live rat stuck to a piece of cardboard. The answer may be easier than you think. Ratatouille anyone? Rat meat is available all year round, thanks to this country’s immense rice fields. The average price for a kilo of rice field rat is VND25,000. In case you’re wondering, rat meat can be stir-fried, boiled, grilled or deep-fried, but the most popular form is roasted. Apparently a perfectly roasted rat should have a reddish crispy skin and down south is served with fish sauce and green mango. Ratty may make a tasty snack, but still it’s a hard sell for most. And so as long as it remains an alley rat rather than a house rat, I’m going to let it be. If anyone happens to have a number for the Pied Piper, please pass it on.

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SMOKE THE ROACH

Bugger Off

YOU'VE PROBABLY HEARD SOMEBODY SAY THAT COME THE END OF THE WORLD, THE ONLY SURVIVORS WOULD BE THE COCKROACHES. FACT OR FICTION? TIME TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THESE PESKY HOME INVADERS

MOSQUITOES BITE AND ARE AS ANNOYING AS YOUR MOTHER-IN-LAW — LUCKILY THERE IS A SOLUTIO SOLUTION ON HOW TO ZAP THE FORMER. YOU MAY JUST BE STUCK WITH THE LATTER

WHILE WE WERE AWAY FOR A WEEK OUR toilet cistern leaked, turning the bathroom into a pool party for the local cockroach community. Unfortunately, they can’t swim. I was left with 20 soggy cockroach corpses. Not the greeting I expected. Why are they so disgusting? Is it the shiny carapace? The long, wiggling antennae? Cockroaches are capable of injecting dread and loathing into most observers. It seems that unless we take a stand, cockroaches will inherit the earth, so I hereby declare war. Rule one: Know thy enemy. Cockroaches are insects of the order blattaria. Less than ten of the 4,500 species of cockroaches are considered pests. At least eight species live in Vietnam. Cockroaches are ugly. They smell, eat your food without asking and spread diseases. Their leg spikes pick up bacteria and grime spreading it wherever they walk. They contaminate their environment by shedding their skins, which are allergens triggering asthma. And it gets worse. Cockroaches have a long life span. They live up to 15 months, during which time females can produce a ridiculously large number of eggs, from 200 to over 800. Think about that. Over 800 baby roaches per mother roach, per 15 months. That’s a lot of cockroaches wandering around contaminating everything they touch. They are among the hardiest insects on the planet. Some can remain active for a month without food and survive on limited

ROACHBUSTERS BORIC ACID: It may be tough to find a boric acid street here, but it’s available in hardware stores in other countries. A dusting of boric acid can do serious damage, as roaches regularly clean themselves and each other. Ingesting boric acid is lethal for them ROACH TRAP: Grab a deep, smoothwalled jar and put a sugary treat inside with a splash of beer. Like humans, roaches are attracted to ale. Ensure the

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resources like the glue from postage stamps. In one experiment, cockroaches recovered from being submerged underwater for 30 minutes. There must have been a riptide in my bathroom to rack up that death toll. So why didn’t they climb the bathroom walls? Cockroach legs are made up of brush-like pile acting like a collection of mini suction cups. To step, the cockroach moves the bristles individually in a wave. Slippery surfaces don’t help. This could be a clue to their ultimate destruction. Pulling their legs off won’t work as cockroaches can regenerate a leg. Feet are necessary to escape enemies and six legs are better than five. Ever tried sneaking up on a cockroach? It seems they have eyes in the back of their heads. They don't, but they do have tiny hairs that gauge air movement, so they feel you. They can run fast and change direction up to 25 times a second. The roach will spin and dash before you can raise your foot. They will slide into narrow cracks where the human foot can’t go. Unlike most insects the cockroach exoskeleton is coated not with a waxy layer but a greasy one. This helps them slide to safety.

don’t need their brain to perform actions like walking or breathing. A headless cockroach can survive for up to a week. Eventually it will die from dehydration. Cockroaches love kitchens and drains, so maybe some serious cleaning could solve the problem? Not so. A cockroach can live a month without food and two weeks without water. Even injured, a cockroach is unlikely to bleed to death. Cockroaches don’t have blood vessels, and their blood is not used to carry oxygen. This makes a pretty formidable enemy with a small window of opportunity for aggressive attack manoeuvres, as cockroaches spend 75 percent of their time resting. They are active at night for around four hours, once you have gone to bed.

Off with its head Even beheading is not effective. Different behaviours are hardwired in nerve groupings throughout a cockroach’s body so they

So how can we destroy these indestructible ones? Here are a few home remedies to halt the cockroach invasion jar top is touching a wall, so they can reach the opening. Once inside, their hairy little legs slide and they can’t escape

the smell of moth balls. Scatter them liberally but remember they are not good for humans either. Keep away from food and food preparation areas

PEPPER SPRAY: Roaches don't like red pepper. Spray surfaces with three tablespoons of Tabasco sauce diluted in a litre of water. Once you’ve stop sneezing, you should see a reduction in roaches

CEDAR PRODUCTS: The oils in cedar wood are a natural deterrent. Find some cedar chips to place in drawers and closets

MOTH BALLS: Roaches don't like

MINT OIL: Cockroaches avoid mint oil, and when coated with it they suffocate.

Try some diluted peppermint oil in a spray bottle to ward off the critters BAY LEAVES: Bay leaves are another scent that roaches avoid. Place crushed leaves in cupboards and make bay leaf tea as a spritzer EAT THEM: If all else fails, try the Cambodian solution. Catch them, fry them and eat them. They are a good source of protein

MOSQUITOES. WHAT ARE THEY GOOD for? Scientists suggest that mosquitoes are one of the few species that would have little impact on the global environment if they became extinct. There are no predators relying on mosquitoes, and no essential role that they fill. So let’s do it. Let’s wipe them out of existence. There are over 2,700 species of mosquito in the world, so making them extinct is a challenge. They may be small in size but the hum of the mosquito's wings – beating about 1,000 times a second – has to be one of the most annoying sounds in the universe. It’s up there with car alarms, dentist drills and vuvuzelas. They are also major disease carriers. From malaria to encephalitis, dengue and yellow fever, mosquitoes are said to be directly responsible for over two million deaths annually. They are vector agents, so they don’t even suffer from the disease themselves — they just pass the parcel. It’s only the women that bite, although in reality mosquitoes don’t have jaws. Technically it’s more of a prick than a bite. The proboscis extending from the mozzies’ head has six needle-like stylets that stab through the skin turning the proboscis into a straw that taps into the bloodstream. If that’s not enough, consider that mosquito saliva is

imbued with anti-clotting chemicals to keep the blood flowing, and an anaesthetic so you don’t notice the deed until it’s too late. It’s mozzie spit that’s the actual cause of allergic reactions to the ‘bite’.

The Attack Strategy So how do we eradicate them? Mosquitoes have been on the planet for over 30 million years, so they must be doing something right, although they only live for four to eight weeks depending on the species. The only non-chemical solution may be predators. Bats, dragonflies and geckos, among others, will eat adult mosquitoes, and dragonfly nymphs and fish will feast on them during their aquatic pre-adult period, lasting five to 14 days. The downside is in the nutritional guidelines — mosquitoes are not a substantial meal, so those higher up the food chain don’t eat enough to defeat the masses. Mosquitoes make up less than one percent of the average diet for bats. Not enough to make a dent in the mozzie population. Can we get in earlier and eliminate the breeding grounds? Mosquitoes lay their eggs in water, so get rid of any standing water around your property. Fish ponds, pot plant feeders and pet watering bowls, are all a no go. So are puddles. This may not be a practical solution for Ho Chi Minh City in the wet season. Even in the dry season the abundance of canals and rivers offers far too much temptation for the pesky bloodsuckers. How about bug zappers? Hundreds of them — in every household of every nation. Forget it. Scientific studies show that zappers actually attract more of the wee beasties. All you’ll end up with is an expensive electricity bill. There’s also no scientific evidence to suggest that ultrasonic devices work, so save your cash. Here are a few tips on how you can treat the bite-slash-stab. Firstly, wash the area with soap and hot water. Don't scratch it, no matter how satisfying you think it could feel. You’ll increase the chances of infection and scarring. Try calamine lotion, a paste of baking soda and water, commercial

after-bite ammonia solutions, or an ice pack. Even more simple, stick a strip of adhesive tape over the bite, or suck on it through a drinking straw. The counter tension should alleviate the itch. For more serious cases a one percent hydrocortisone cream can do the trick.

HOW TO STOP THE BITING REPELLENT DEET-based repellents work well in fighting off the blighters, but DEET is a harsh chemical. If smearing toxic substances on to your skin makes you nervous, catnip oil extract, citronella and eucalyptus oil (tiger balm) are the basis for the natural repellents on the market. They can also be used in candle form and do work, although have a fairly limited effectiveness CAMOUFLAGE Wear light clothing in colours that help you blend into the background. Mosquitoes hone in on colour contrasts as well as movement. Play statues. Stay still and hide. If they find you, run — mosquitoes prefer a steady target PERMETHRIN Treat your clothes with permethrin. The downside is the cost; unless you have a limited wardrobe to treat, this will set you back a small fortune. It will poison your cat, too. We’re yet to find it commercially in the city DON'T SMELL Avoid perfume, aftershave, scented lotions, soaps, hair spray and deodorant. Stick with eau de natural for less appeal to mosquitoes. Keep in mind the result may also be less appealing to humans TIMING As with any creature with vampiric tendencies, peak feeding hours are from dusk until dawn. Stay home under your mosquito net There are a few unproven remedies, such as ingesting vitamin B or garlic. While this can deter some biting insects, mosquitoes are not fazed. You’ll just be seasoning yourself. For the Australians out there, this means vegemite is also not going to work

The Word September 2011 | 63

business

Business Listings ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 065 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 065 BUSINESS CONSULTING 066 BUSINESS GROUPS 066 COPYWRITING 066 CORPORATE GIFTS 066 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 066 INSURANCE 066 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 066 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 067

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT B003A, B Building, The Manor, My Dinh Tel: 794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country. Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF GROUP 8th floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in The Netherlands, with over 86 offices in 65 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG 16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

city guide

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS 7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

Business Listings 065 Destination Listings 069

THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY

Leisure & Arts Listings 083 Medical Listings 088 Fashion Listings 089 Home Listings 090 64 | The Word September 2011

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

Out & About Listings 076

313 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED 2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out

To welcome new arrivals to the city and all our customers we have

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 067 LEGAL SERVICES 067 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 068 MARKET RESEARCH 068 MEDIA 068 PUBLIC 068 RECRUITMENT & HR 068 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 068 SERVICED APARTMENTS 068

of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

Special Discounts On Selected Items

Drinks & Nibbles Served All Day

ADVERTISING & MARKETING GREY GROUP 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam the client roster includes Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

Ho Chi Minh City 64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 +84 (08) 3914 2119 9 am - 7 pm every day

Hanoi Store 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem +84 (04) 3926 4831 9 am - 9 pm every day

www.vietnam-quilts.org

LEONITO 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

OGILVY & MATHER 8/F Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 3914 www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

T&A COMMUNICATIONS 104 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 3913 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and non-

The Word September 2011 | 65

business government organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts & premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC. Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662. www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP 33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

ERNST & YOUNG Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh. Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSCHAM 10 Lane 283 Doi Can, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3762 2282 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 91 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP 185 Giang VoSt., Dong Da. Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; Cis-

66 | The Word September 2011

coTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229. www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864. www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Level 4, Kim Ma Building, 561 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3771 1004. www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

COPY WRITING ABLE COMMUNICATION Tel: 0913 502829 able@fpt.vn An experienced editor is available to proofread copy and help produce inspired communication or marketing collateral. Able Communication has been providing professional services and solutions to Vietnam’s business community since 2003. For more information about how we can help your organisation, call or e mail.

CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items. Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services. Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

HANOI HOUSE HUNTER Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

KNIGHT FRANK 40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

MEGALAND 2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

SAVILLS VIETNAM 6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

TAN LONG HOUSING

CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd 6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

49 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 0913 345152 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

VIETNAM LAND 38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0934 416661 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land

sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

INSURANCE

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

INDOCHINA CAPITAL

16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

AIG

PRUDENTIAL 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. It arrives in Hanoi in August 2011 but is enrolling from pre-school to grade seven now. Located to the west of the city.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

MEKONG CAPITAL 12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

SG VIETFRANCE VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO. 4th Floor, 44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5986 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VINACAPITAL 5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

CLEVERLEARN Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

LEGAL SERVICES ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH) Room 317, 3rd Floor, VCCI Building, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Cau Giay Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER #05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF HANOI 35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 3835 3548 The Lawyer’s Association is a collective of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in many fields. They can provide legal and representation services.

business

destination

RUSSIN & VECCHI 11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM 193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

INFOSHAREHANOI.COM Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

LINKHANOI.COM Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.

MARKET RESEARCH

City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

CIMIGO 142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

THE NIELSEN COMPANY 3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

VINALINK 59 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4206 1773 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

MEDIA UE STUDIOS Tel: 01252 278365 hello@mathieudebruyere.com Website design, interface for html, css and flash platforms, UE Studios not only creates and develops websites but also help design visual brand identity. Also offer illustration and motion design. Call cameraman Mathieu.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3247 4028 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED 14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 8 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

NEWHANOIAN.COM

TQPR

The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh. Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES

VENUS COMMUNICATIONS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK

WORDHANOI.COM The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

68 | The Word September 2011

4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh

3rd & 4th Floor, 75 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RESIDENT VIETNAM 3A, Alley 49, Huynh Thuc, Dong Da Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort. Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

MAYFAIR 34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

OCEAN BEACH RESORT

$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around US$40 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.

Destination Listings DALAT 069 DANANG 069 HALONG & CAT BA 069 HAI PHONG 069 HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 069 HANOI - MID - RANGE 071 HANOI - BUDGET 071 HO CHI MINH CITY 071 HOI AN & DANANG 072 HUE 072 MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 072 NAM DINH & NINH BINH 073

NHA TRANG 073 NORTH-EAST 074 NORTH-WEST 074 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 074 PHU QUOC 074 SAPA 074 TAM DAO 074 TRAVEL SERVICES 074

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match. CREDIT

DREAMS HOTEL $ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

PEACE HOTEL $ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under US$20, but prices vary depending on the season.

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DALAT

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

DANANG DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes. CREDIT

HALONG & CAT BA BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City. The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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PRINCES HOTEL

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES $$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888, www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi. CREDIT

HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY 32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from 25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.

HALONG DREAM HOTEL

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$$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between US$100 and US$300. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club, laundry service and sauna.

HALONG PLAZA

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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.

ROYAL HOTEL

petitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.

HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI $$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town. CREDIT

DAEWOO HOTEL

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$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

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$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999 www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.

HAI PHONG BACH DANG HOTEL $$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements. Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

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$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122unit property start at around US$130.

HUU NGHI HOTEL

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI $$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dist, Tel: 3831 3333 fortunahanoi@fortuna.com.vn fortunahotels.com This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. CREDIT

FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com A good alternative to staying at a five-star hotel while you’re in the capital, Fraser Suites offers short-term stays for as little as US$120 a night when they’re having a promotion. In the West Lake area, you can

PRICE RANGE BELOW US$30

$ $$

US$31 TO US$80

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US$81 TO US$150

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ABOVE US$151

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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts.

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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

MAXIM HOTEL $$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM

MONACO HOTEL

SWIMMING POOL

103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-

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destination expect the gold-standard service with a quiet atmosphere and excellent views.

DESTINATION ZERO

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

Quan Lan, Quang Ninh Photos by Dominic Blewett

HORISON HOTEL

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$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the sparkle of a few years ago, but nonetheless has good quality rooms with all the mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent but slightly old gym area and a good outdoor pool.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA

top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

SHERATON

JOSEPH’S HOTEL CREDIT

$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI $$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. CREDIT

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

$$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. CREDIT

WHEN MOST PEOPLE THINK OF QUANG NINH PROVINCE, Halong Bay often comes to mind. However, few people visit Quan Lan, a hidden island about an hour past the renowned bay, where the crowds are small, the beaches big and the seafood fresh. At 5.45 am on a Friday morning, a few friends and myself headed to the Luong Yen bus station on the outskirts of Hanoi and boarded a bus for Van Don — a port city near Halong Bay. Tickets were priced at VND125,000. After the five-and-a-half hour ride, the bus arrived in Van Don, where we grabbed some street food at a market near the bus stop before catching a cab to Cai Ong port. Here, we purchased tickets for a 45-minute motorboat ride — VND280,000 each for a round trip. Far from the hustle and bustle of Cat Ba, Quan Lan appears to be a pristine and untouched island. Upon reaching Quan Lan, we load into a tuk tuk and head to the town’s centre. Despite its remoteness, Quan Lan offers a wide variety of hotel accommodations both in town and on the beach. For starters, the Minh Quang Hotel in the city

centre has two-person rooms that go for VND300,000 a night. Next door at the pricier, albeit classier Ann Hotel, a room for two is priced at VND650,000. On Son Hao, one of the larger beaches on the island, Van Hai Resort supplies four-person bungalows on the sand for VND800,000 a night. We opted for the cheapest option. While there are no western bars to speak of, the town doesn’t completely shut down at night. We found a fun karaoke joint with about 15 Vietnamese guys slamming shots of beer and rocking out on the mic. Needless to say, we decided to drink and be merry and joined in. The next morning, we woke up early and headed back to Son Hao Beach for the first half of the day. After a swim, we feasted at Van Hai Restaurant — the only one at this beach. However, menus were not in English and seafood must be ordered in bulk. A LITTLE MORE LIVELY After Son Hao, we headed to Minh Chau Beach, which is another 7km outside of town. What this beach lacks in bungalows it makes up for in restaurants and is also

home to bigger crowds and a livelier atmosphere — picture bonfires, techno and karaoke. Sunday morning, we surveyed the beach 200 meters from our hotel — appropriately named Quan Lan Beach. We then grabbed fish and clams for lunch before heading back to Hanoi. While a visit to Quan Lan is fairly inexpensive, be prepared for various small charges that will pop up during the trip. To get to and from most of the beaches, you’ll have to either rent motorbikes for VND150,000 per day or hire a tuk tuk, which costs either VND200,000 for a roundtrip from town to Son Hao Beach or VND300,000 for a roundtrip to Minh Chau beach. At each beach, entrance tickets cost about VND20,000. However, these fees are a small price to pay for what Quan Lan offers — beautiful beaches with none of the hassle that you’ll find at more popular seaside destinations. While the island is not the place for barhopping and shopping, it serves as a getaway from the madness of the city. — Victoria Boggiano.

MARIGOLD HOTEL

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter. Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

MELIA HANOI

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com This landmark property has become one of Hanoi’s most popular five-star hotels. Centrally located, with luxurious accommodation, the Melia also has a host of fine dining areas, a swimming pool, a health club and an in-house bar-cumnightclub, Latino. A popular venue for functions, exhibitions and events.

MERCURE HANOI LA GARE

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HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem info@sixonsixteen.com, www.sixonsixteen.com Charming best describes this chic, six-room boutique hotel nestled in the heart of the Old Quarter. From the owners of Sapa Rooms and Hmong Mountain Retreat, the hotel features rooms with antique furnishings, handcrafted beds and Juliet balconies. Hearty breakfast is included and you might stick around for supper at 7pm with a home-style Vietnamese dinner on offer.

GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND $$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand. CREDIT

GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

HANOI SPRING HOTEL II

$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and

$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter

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$$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

$$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service. Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under US$50 for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39. CREDIT

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at US$40 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from US$120 for a guest room to US$220 for a suite. CREDIT

MAY DE VILLE

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL $$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs. CREDIT

ZEPHYR

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

HANOI – BUDGET CAMELLIA HOTEL

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from US$25 to US$35. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at US$7.50, plus a couple of double suites from US$15 to US$35. A place to meet likeminded fold in the Old Quarter.

HONG NGOC HOTEL $$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available. Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

LITTLE HANOI HOTEL

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem ,Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around US$30 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

HO CHI MINH CIT Y CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well-appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street-level mayhem of the backpacker area.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as CREDIT

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AIRLINES An Phu

destination well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

AIR ASIA 25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5351 www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3484 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7298 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

NEW WORLD

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RAMANA HOTEL

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5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6693 www.vn.jal.com

$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 , Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

JETSTAR PACIFIC

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

CHINA AIRLINES 4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIR 2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1600 www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES

www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 7247 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 5362 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8820 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8888 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7921 www.thaiair.com

$$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city. Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city. CREDIT

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HOI AN & DANANG CUA DAI

facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around US$20.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre-programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE ANA MANDARA HUE

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam , Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern

GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN $ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue , Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around US$10. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at US$120++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI $$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood. CREDIT

Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh , Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

NGOC BACH $$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau, Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE $$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections. The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts. Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website.

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms, stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from US$5 to US$25 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE

THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE

House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical

$ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh, Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money. There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere.

Prices range from US$5 to US$20 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

THUY ANH HOTEL $$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

NHA TRANG

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at US$734++ for a beach pool villa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates. CREDIT

EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

SAO MAI HOTEL 99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace. Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

SUNRISE BEACH RESORT $$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese CREDIT

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-US$20 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

PILGRIMAGE VILLAGE - BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and has an on-site spa.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1 $$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom

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destination

and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

NORTH-EAST BANG GIANG HOTEL $ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang, Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around US$20.

HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL $ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

HOANG SON HAI 57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

HUY HOAN HOTEL

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.

SAO MAI HOTEL $ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point. The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU $$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment. CREDIT

$$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV. CREDIT

SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL $$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La, Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is US$25 to US$30, breakfast included. CREDIT

SUNRISE HOTEL $ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La , Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around US$20.

PHAN THIET / MUI NE $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area. CREDIT

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

THAI NGUYEN HOTEL

SHADES APARTMENTS

NORTH-WEST HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE $$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

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CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant.

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$$$ Tel: 062 743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options. CREDIT

THE SAILING CLUB

LA VERANDA

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

BLUE OCEAN RESORT

$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain. 2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

PHU QUOC CREDIT

MUONG THANH HOTEL

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country. Definitely one of the most exclusive.

THANH LOAN HOTEL

and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some refurbishment. Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA AUBERGE HOTEL $ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name. Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around US$20.

BAMBOO HOTEL $$ 18 Muong Hoa (Pho Cau May), Sapa Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed at this elevation, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between US$35 and US$50 a night. The premium here is on the views.

CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

TAM DAO GREEN WORLD HOTEL $ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 rooms ranging in price from US$20 to US$30 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

HANG KHONG HOTEL $ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around US$25. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)

HANDSPAN TRAVEL

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

EXOTISSIMO 26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5555 Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 2735 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

FREEWHEELIN TOURS 2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743 www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa - www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed

departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

BIKE RENTALS

JEWEL OF THE DELTA Tel: 01282 471716 booking@jewelofthedelta.com A cruise boat on the Red River offering cocktail and party cruises every week with free snacks, a free cocktail and free shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private cruises are available for parties, meetings, receptions, and dinners for groups or organisations. A unique place to chill out.

LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD 5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 4120 www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com Vietnam’s First Luxury Tour Company, offers you carefree luxury travel so you and your family can focus on the fun, not the details. Challenge your skills at the country’s most spectacular golf courses. Soak up the sun while being soothed by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for high-fashion couture in the most elegant cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation experience you want; name it, we deliver

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL 106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941

Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049

Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390

Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation. Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

HUONG LIEN HOTEL $ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around US$10. Beware, though, prices are subject to change.

MELA HOTEL $$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony. The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between US$40 and US$80.

TRAVEL SERVICES AIR MEKONG 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn With presence in eight different cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam. It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic alternative to the time-consuming train and bus combo.

ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 9343 0888 Founded in 1998, the travel company caters to both corporate and international travel. Services include ticketing, hotel reservation, travel insurance, transfer and visa arrangement. Outbound tours and packages throughout the world are also available.

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out & about

Out & About Listings BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 076 CAFES 077 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 079 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 079 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 080 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 081 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 081

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 17 COWBOYS MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 6822 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

BAMBOO BAR CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

BAR BETTA RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee. Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

BLACK PEARL PUB

BAR HALL/LIVE STAGE 57 Yen Phu street, Tay Ho, Tel: 3715 3175 black.pearl.hn@hotmail.com 10am to midnight The pirate theme here is done subtly in a

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

76 | The Word September 2011

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 081 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 081 RESTOBARS 082 ARTICLES FOOD BUFF 078

HANOI ROCK CITY

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

TET BAR

CIAO CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01887 487 426 www.hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

LOUNGE AND BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am One of the few staple bars in the city that hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, slightly ethnic decor and one of the most amiable owners in town, Mao's is always a great place to start off or finish the night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome at one of the most popular drinking spots on Ta Hien.

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

MODEL CLUB

THE SPOT

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

HO GUOM XANH CLUB

one-room pub slash live music venue up on Yen Phu. Weekends are home to open mic nights and DJ sets, which draw in a mixed and pleasant crowd of undercover musicians and ravers. A pleasant and comfortable space.

CHEEKY QUARTER LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours. +

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 4926 2177 6pm to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter to dance it up at on the weekends or on a weekday. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart topping hits and classic hip hop makes Dragonfly a must for anyone looking to shake it up. If you don't feel like dancing, relax with shisha and friends in one of the two lounges on the second floor.

EZ RIDER

POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

STAGE AND TABLE CLUB 32 Le Thai To, Tel: 3828 8806 8pm to 11.45pm Just a few yards from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon of a nightclub seems more at home in Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs, go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to ‘dance’ around a table, if you’re willing, while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle service in the heart of the city.

HOUSE OF SON TINH LIQUOR LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2212 6821 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA FÉE VERTE FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laid-back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

LONG PLAY CAFÉ LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late This quirky bar and living room gets busiest in the later hours. Down in the bar, plasma screens and an iPod station mix with a dance floor and comically named cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned living room — a pleasant space with a low ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the north is a must.

PHUC TAN ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches. +

Q PUB

BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180 qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

ROOTS

REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

TEMPLE BAR

DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6675 7908 7pm to 2am A relative newcomer and an instant favourite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a good choice for late night fun. The long, thin establishment is a bar out front with decks and some tiles out back – usually hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials most days and is guaranteed to be crammed at the weekend. Popular among locals, expats and tourists.

TUNNEL BAR INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0936 063303 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

WINE’S CORNER WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty. Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

CAFES ALIGN 3D POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

AVALON CAFÉ LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801 www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop. Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

HAPRO CAFÉ CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere. It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counterstyle service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

The Word September 2011 | 77

out & about

FOOD BUFF COOK AT HOME WITH CHEF SHAY Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

“SEASONALITY IS ALMOST AN obsolete notion, what with the international network of importations, greenhouses and other technological marvels that allow us to enjoy a tomato in the winter. Still, there is something marvelous about those blink-and-it's-gone moments of food, the few that still remain. Summer in Hanoi means an abundance of lychee — a great fruit, but add a bit of lemon to it and it truly shines. Here I’ve created a recipe that celebrates its freshness and added another summer crop, sugar cane.” — Chef Shahar Lubin Prawn and lychee ceviche with sugar cane juice and double-fried green bananas RECIPE: 4 large green bananas 8 large prawns 4 lychees, peeled, seeded and quartered ½ onion, roughly chopped ½ carrot, roughly chopped 1 stalk celery, roughly chopped 100ml pressed sugar cane juice 20ml extra virgin olive oil 20ml lime juice 20ml high quality first press fish sauce ½ bird eye chili, thinly sliced Zest of one lime

78 | The Word September 2011

METHOD: Peel and devein prawns. Put prawn skins and heads, onion, carrot and celery in a medium pot, fill with water and bring to a boil. Boil for ten minutes and lower to a simmer. Add cleaned prawns and cook for one minute. Take prawns out and cool in ice water (cooking broth can be discarded, or used for noodles or a seafood soup). When cool, take out of the ice water, cut the prawns in half and use paper towels to pat dry. Blend the sugar cane juice, olive oil, lime juice and fish sauce in a blender. Mix with the chilli and the lime zest. Add prawns and lychees, toss together and let marinade in the fridge for at least one hour and no more than 12. Peel the bananas, cut each in four and put in cold water for ten minutes. Strain and deep fry at 160c until light brown. Using a mallet or the back of a frying pan, flatten each fried banana piece into semithin discs and deep-fry a second time until crispy. Serve one half prawn with one piece of lychee on each fried banana crisp. This is a good party dish for eight or an appetizer for four.

KINH DO

PARIS DELI

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

LA PLACE CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

MOCA CAFE

SEGAFREDO

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

NOLA CAFE

STOP CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY / RETRO CAFE 89 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 4346 8535 10am to midnight Step into a narrow alleyway and into an alternative world of winding staircases, comfortable couches, whimsical umbrellas and cozy nooks. The menu here caters to big breakfast lovers and those seeking a hideaway to nuzzle a lover. The oatmeal is unparalleled in Hanoi, as is the homemade granola. Mega egg entrees and luscious pancakes round out the breakfast menu, but food is served all day and the mixed menu of western and Vietnamese dishes means there is something for everyone.

OCHAO TEAHOUSE TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

PANACEA CAFE MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

SAINT HONORE

FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFE 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu). Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small and cozy café and sandwich bar hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. But worth the search. It serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. Outdoor seating area upstairs, sofas, books and a speaker set up, too. Also has an excellent delivery service — perfect for lunches in the office.

THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004 www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, westernstyle drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians

are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

RESTAURANTS - FRENCH MID-RANGE CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327 www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

MID TO TOP GREEN TANGERINE 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

TOP-END CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 7207 11am to 11pm This Parisian eatery with high ceilings is imbued with a laid back feel that comes with wooden furnishings and a nice bar. The venue serves up traditional French dishes and boasts an exquisite rooftop terrace on Hanoi’s pub street that is home to fewer bars and more and more cafes. The place is owned and operated in cooperation with its neighbor, Stop Café.

LA BADIANE 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

SATINE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 satine@hoteldelopera.com 6pm to 10.30pm Designed for strictly dinner only indulgence, the opulent Satine provides diners the option of ordering a la carte or from one of the venue’s 12-course menus. Lavish design, royal-styled chairs and tables, three private dining rooms and the option of dining in a glass-covered courtyard are all part of the mix, with the cuisine prepared by executive chef Ms. Frédérique Nguyen.

RESTAURANTS - INDIAN MID-RANGE FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 foodshop45@yahoo.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

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INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN 78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

KHAZAANA INDIAN/HALAL 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657 www.khaazana.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompasses the entire subcontinent, complete with

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel: 04 3719 2828 or 0913 001 359 Email: Donchef@donviet.vn www.donviet.vn

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out & about heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

NAMASTE HANOI 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

TANDOOR 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the superbooster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

TRIEU PHUONG HONG KONG CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

BRITANNIA FISH & CHIPS 15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6694 If you want a product closest to quintes-

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out & about sential British fish and chips, then your best option by an arm and many a leg is Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock may have been switched for basa and sea bass, but everything else is authentic, from the beer batter and mushy peas through to the newspaper wrapping, Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy, upstairs two-room dining area.

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

KITCHEN INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

LA RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANNEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.

LE MARRAKECH

THE HOUSE

MORROCAN 88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-your-own VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

LITTLE HANOI VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 38285 333 littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am - 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

MATCHBOX INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealandtrained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

PROVECHO TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SPOON ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

TAMARIND CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

MID TO TOP GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and US$35 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight With attentive service, tasty food and large portions, this place has something for everyone and has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Also has a large and spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA CANTINE INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897 www.lacantine.vn 6am to 11.30pm Converted from a wing of an old church, this upscale restaurant with extensive Vietnamese and international offerings is just a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea. Expect about US$48 for a set top-end six-course meal and US$28 for the more downscale five-course offering.

LE PETITE BRUXELLES BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

TOP END CAFÉ LAUTREC MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet

dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121 www.halia.com.sg 11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801 www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888 www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN MID-RANGE DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

PANE VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 9080 Renowned for its half off deals on Sundays and Mondays, this Italian eatery has a lengthy menu, but attracts most of its customers thanks to its large, highly rated, oven fresh pizzas. Look forward to more cheese and less tomato sauce on these pies, and devour them in a spacious, air-conditioned venue near the cathedral in the Old Quarter. Has a second restaurant at 3 Nguyen Khac Can.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

ZPIZZA Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959 www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

TOP-END ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn't mean that prices here

are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++. Nick Ross

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN

GIM BAB KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

IZAKAYA YANCHA JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among a group and with bottles of beer or sake. The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

SAIGON SAKURA TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 17 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR 3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 8588 baanthai95@hotmail.com 10am to 10pm This venue serves arguably the best Thai food in the city. With Thai owners and staff from the country’s Isaan region in the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy staples that come from the northeastern provinces in the country. After a meal in the more traditional ground floor space, relax in the comfortable furnishings of the venue’s chic first-floor lounge.

RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

BANH XEO SAI GON BANH XEO / BUN BO 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 01296 290015 12pm to 11pm A recently opened slither of an eatery selling — wait for it — a Hanoi version of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a bit of a mouthful but worth it — for all its augmentations the banh xeo (beef, beansprout and egg pancakes) served up for self rolling with rice paper and fresh herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo.

BUN BO HUE BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

BUN BO NAM BO

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET

BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

NISA

BUN CHA DAC KIM

MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

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out & about CHICKEN STREET BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street. Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

COM CHAY NANG TAM VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

COM GA HOI AN HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

DAC SAN HUE HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da. Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

DUONG SOM CHAO CA FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread. The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

MAI ANH PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big, too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

PHO CUON STRIP PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold. Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that

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leisure & arts also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

QUAN 32 PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

QUAN 49 PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles). Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

TRUC LAM TROI VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery.

this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 4200 10am-12am Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor. It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

KITI RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom. Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

NGOC HIEU STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

NHA HANG NGON

MID TO TOP

rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

AU LAC HOUSE

DERRY'S

INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao. Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travelers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

SOFTWATER VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

TRUNG DUONG

VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133 ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

MID-RANGE

OLD HANOI

WILD LOTUS

WHITE CLOUD

CHA CA LA VONG CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, onedish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated, pre-marinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

CHIM SAO TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3976 0633 Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the rollyour-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

QUAN AN NGON CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze. Quite an experience.

DALUVA

RESTOBARS +

CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ

OLA DE TAPAS

IRISH / WESTERN / ASIAN 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 0614 derryspub@gmail.com 3pm to midnight A multi-storey Singaporean-Vietnamese run Irish joint with all the Celtic accoutrements and drinks — think Guinness, Jameson's and Bushmills. Located on the lake, the venue also has an international food menu which takes in anything from Irish beef stew through to fish head curry, beef rendang, tom yam soup and more. Has a solid local following and amiable know-your-name owners.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra. Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JASPA’S LOUNGE

VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

Nick Ross

a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

INTERNATIONAL 23C Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6555 www.alfrescosgroup.com 9.30am to midnight Formerly known as Jo Jo’s, this miniscule yet attractive space is first and foremost a wine bar serving up tasty, western-style fusion cuisine in an elegant, subtly lit setting. Black sofa chairs line the interior, providing the perfect place to park up and chow down. Part of the Al Fresco’s Group.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

SANDBOX INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

SOUTHGATE

LE PUB

THE SPORTSMAN

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has

SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set. CZECH BEER HALL / SPORTS 16 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3386 10am to midnight A quirky, skinny Czech-themed beer hall of a place that mixes draft and imported beers with live sports, football player caracatures and a nominally Eastern European and Vietnamese seafood menu. Although open all day, it's only really during the live sports that this venue splits at the seams, making it a popular place to swill beer and chat niceties over Premier League football.

Leisure & Arts Listings AMUSEMENT 083 BOOKS SHOPS 083 CINEMAS 083 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 083 COOKING CLASSES 084 DANCING 084 FITNESS 084 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 084 GALLERIES 085 GOLF COURSES 085 MASSAGE 085 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 086 KIDS 086

LEISURE GENERAL 086 NAILS 086 PERFORMING ARTS 087 SPAS 087 SPORTS CLASSES 087 TENNIS 087 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 087 ARTS CLASSES 088 ARTICLES HEALTH BUFF 084 CINEMA PREVIEWS 086 BOOK PREVIEW 087

CINEMAS

AMUSEMENT BINGO CAFÉ 57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho A proper two-floor pool hall with a restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty of tables in good condition, great for a night out.

COSMOS 168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

HANOI STAR BOWL 2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

QUAN TOM 89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

HIEU SACH THANG LONG 55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

XUNHASABA 32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines. Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

CINEMATHEQUE 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

MEGASTAR Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films. The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE 87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

AMERICAN CLUB 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

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HEALTH BUFF Hand, Foot and Mouth Disease

L’ESPACE

ELITE FITNESS

HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2164 www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city. They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

So far this year (as of mid-June 2011), Vietnam has recorded more than 6,000 hand-foot-mouth patients in 30 provinces, with 17 deaths — mainly in southern provinces.

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

HIDDEN HANOI

HANOI FITNESS

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

Tel: 01256 898069 www.hanoifitness.com Hanoi Fitness is run by Henrik Olofssen, a young Swedish personal trainer. No gym, no workout space, just call and make an appointment for a personal fitness routine designed around your personal needs.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS CLINICAL: Hand, foot, and mouth disease (HFMD) is a common viral illness of infants and children. The disease causes fever and blister-like eruptions in the mouth and/or a skin rash. It usually begins with a fever, poor appetite, malaise and often with a sore throat. One or two days after fever onset, painful sores usually develop in the mouth. They begin as small red spots that blister and then often become ulcers. The sores are usually on the tongue, gums, and on the inside of the cheeks. A non-itchy skin rash develops over the following one or two days. The rash has flat or raised red spots, sometimes with blisters, usually on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet; it may also appear on the buttocks and/or genitalia. A person with HFMD may have only the rash or only the mouth sores. CAUSATIVE AGENT: HFMD is caused by viruses that belong to the enterovirus genus (group). The current outbreak of hand-foot-mouth disease among children in southern Vietnam is being caused by the coxsackie B2 virus and not EV71. SPREAD: Infection is spread from person to person by direct contact with the virus via nasal secretions, saliva, blister fluid and the stool of infected persons. It is most often spread by people with unwashed, viruscontaminated hands and by contact with virus-contaminated surfaces. Infected persons are most contagious during the first week of the illness. HFMD occurs mainly in children under 10 years old but can also occur in adults.

84 | The Word September 2011

DIAGNOSIS: Samples from the throat or stool may be sent to a laboratory to test for virus and to find out which enterovirus caused the illness. TREATMENT: There is no specific treatment for HFMD. Pain and fever can be treated with overthe-counter medications (Panadol) and mouthwashes or sprays can be used to lessen or numb pain. Fluid intake should be enough to prevent dehydration. PREVENTION: The risk of infection can be lowered by following good hygiene practices — washing hands frequently, especially after changing diapers and after using the toilet, cleaning dirty surfaces and soiled items, including toys, first with soap and water and then with disinfectant. Avoiding close contact (kissing, hugging, sharing eating utensils or cups, etc.) with persons with HFMD. No vaccine is available to protect against the enteroviruses that cause HFMD. COMPLICATIONS: Viral meningitis can occur rarely with HFMD. Viral meningitis causes fever, headache, stiff neck or back pain. The condition is usually mild and clears without treatment. Other more serious diseases, such as encephalitis (swelling of the brain) or a polio-like paralysis result even more rarely. Encephalitis can be fatal. This article was written by Dr. W.B McNaull, Medical Director — FMP Hanoi, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3843 0748.

FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7916 Located in the same building as Hidden Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance studio. Will provide instruction in everything from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and bachata.

ROCKIT FITNESS Tel: 0904 378610 rockitfitness@yahoo.com Yury is a personal trainer who incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae and African tribal moves into his fitness routines. Call him directly to schedule an appointment, or join his weekly classes at 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, on Mondays at 6pm.

FITNESS CLUB OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 For a monthly fee of VND170,000 you can have access to all of this well-equipped health club. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, weight lifting area, tread mills and everything else you might expect to find for a full work out, even if it doesn’t have all the privacy in the changing and showering areas you might be used to. Equipment could do with an upgrade, though. Also offers aerobics classes.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 475 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 01267 239974 (Arnaud), www.k1-factory. com Already with a well-known sister fitness factory in Saigon, K1 specialises in mixed martial arts and fight training and private fitness conditioning in a location overlooking the south end of Ho Tay. Run by Frenchman Arnaud Le Pont, disciplines trained at this centre include Thai boxing, Brazilian JJB, grappling, wrestling, kick boxing and English-style boxing.

VIET CELTS www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player. Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

VIETNAM SWANS www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone who is willing to have a good time.

GALLERIES APRICOT GALLERY 40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists.

ART VIETNAM 7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 2349 www.artvietnamgallery.com One of Vietnam’s best known and respected galleries, features contemporary Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture, painting, lacquer, photography and video,

from both up-and-coming and wellestablished artists. Check their website for a list of exhibitions and events.

also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

BUI GALLERY

7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8595 www.thebuigallery.com Housed in a picturesque French colonial villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi’s newest and boldest young modern art galleries. Features cutting-edge contemporary art from Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US and Europe. Two spaces in Singapore will open in 2010.

HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

MAI GALLERY 113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

MAISON DES ARTS 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,

RED RIVER GALLERY

SUFFUSIVE GALLERY 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

TADIOTO 113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above the bar and café on the ground floor. A thoughtful space containing rare works by serious artists questioning quick development or changes in societal norms. Hosts frequent literary and musical events, along with presentations of artwork that differs from what’s available elsewhere in Hanoi.

VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY 96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

GOLF COURSES HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

LANG HA DRIVING RANGE 6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh Tel: 3835 0909 The driving range has two levels and a netted area to catch the balls. Although the facilities might not be up to country club standards, it is in a relatively convenient location. One can either pay a monthly membership fee of around US$100, or pay by the ball as you go.

TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

MASSAGE

54 TRADITIONS GALLERY

JUST MASSAGE

30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on

237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and

NSHAPE FITNESS 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice. Membership starts from US$74 per month with no joining fee.

STAR FITNESS 4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB 19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about US$65.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

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CINEMA PREVIEWS Film Buff

HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE

What’s hot in the cinemas this month JOHNNY ENGLISH REBORN Director: Oliver Parker Stars: Rowan Atkinson, Rosamund Pike and Dominic West After years of solitude, Johnny English reenters the world of international espionage and tries to stop a team of international assassins before they take out a pivotal world leader. English is forced to rely on his seemingly neverending supply of wit, luck and hi-tech gadgets to unravel a web of conspiracy that runs throughout the KGB, CIA and even MI-7. Set for release in September at MegaStar (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) and at Platinum Cineplex (The Garden Shopping Centre, Me Tri, Tu Liem) ALMANYA - WELCOME TO GERMANY Director: Yasemin Samdereli Stars: Demet Gül, Vedat Erincin, Lilay Huser “Who or what am I… German or Turkish?” asks six-year-old Cenk Yilmaz as he is forced to face questions regarding his identity after being bullied at school. His cousin consoles him with the story of their grandfather Hüseyin, who was the 1,000,001st Gastarbeiter (guest worker) to arrive in Germany in the 1960s. The flashbacks of the family’s beginnings in Germany are often filled with humour and imbued with nostalgia. But things become turbulent after Hüseyin announces that he has bought a house in Turkey and demands that the family head back home with him. This movie will be shown at the National Cinema Centre, 87 Lang Ha, Ba Đinh on Sep. 16, as part of the German Film Festival 2011 sponsored by the Goethe Institute. Original language: German with English and Vietnamese subtitles

SHARK NIGHT (3D) Director: David R. Ellis Stars: Sara Paxton, Dustin Milligan and Alyssa Diaz A weekend at a lake house in the Louisiana Gulf turns into a blood-soaked nightmare for a group of college students after they are trapped on an island surrounded by freshwater sharks. The whole group scrambles to survive as the body count continues to grow. They struggle desperately to fend off the sharks, get help and stay alive long enough to reach the safety of dry land. Set for release in 3D on Sep. 9 at MegaStar

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pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions. 14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

THANH GIA 18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON

ADRIFT (CHOI VOI) Director: Bui Thac Chuyen Stars: Do Thi Hai Yen, Pham Linh Dan, Jonny Tri Nguyen At her wedding reception, Duyen watches her husband Hai get drunk and pass out — the first signs that things weren’t all they were built up to be. She soon realises that her young husband is not only sexually naïve, but overly occupied with his job and doting mother. As her marriage remains unconsummated and her emotional isolation grows, she reaches out to her best girl friend, the novelist Cam, who secretly desires her. But Cam’s perverse response is to push Duyen into the arms of a dangerous and provocative suitor Tho, who takes her virginity. The resulting sexual awakening and infidelity puts Duyen in a precarious love triangle — challenging her notions of conventional relationships and also the stability of her new family. Adrift will be shown in Vietnamese with French subtitles at the French Cultural Centre (L’Espace) at 8pm on Sep. 9

TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION 5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

KIDS HANOI ZOO Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music. This can be fun for adults as well as children.

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

VINCOM TOWERS

FRANGIPANI SPA

HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages. Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

TA SALON Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra). Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

LEISURE GENERAL www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture. Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time. Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

NAILS

THE HAIR WORKSHOP

FANCY SPA

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

HAIR SPACE 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

LINKQ 271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa

pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

TOP SPOT 52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS 67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

HANOI OPERA HOUSE 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE 25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

YOUTH THEATRE 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

SPAS KIM DUNG 38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

LANCY SPA 35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

LE SPA DU METROPOLE Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge. It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

ORCHIDS SPA 34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

SANTAL SPA

BOOK REVIEW Four Books in Four Weeks

Truong @ Bookworm has 15,000 books to keep himself busy in rainy weather. Here he recommends four personal favourites for September

112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

ZEN SPA 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

SPORTS CLASSES HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE 59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX 95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

VAN TUE THANG LONG 136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP 164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events

HUCKELBERRY FINN BY MARK TWAIN roared back into prominence when a new, 2010 edition received press because it replaced the noun “nigger” with “slave”. It was first published in 1884 and, with it’s companion piece ‘Tom Sawyer’, was the first book in American literature to be written in the vernacular, coloured by vocabulary from a specific region. Hence the “n-word” is used as a common term of reference for any African character. The minor controversy had its upside because it introduced this great piece of literature — in its original form — to a new readership. Lots of local book clubs took on the challenge and discussed the issue. The editor of the new version is said to have excised “nigger” so that the Huck Finn would be accepted back into many American schools — and libraries that had also banned it because of the racist word — and into the hands of a new generation. Anyone who loves the language and colourful characters in Huck’s world will love Hannah Tinti’s new, first novel, The Good Thief. With a real Dickensian edge, it’s set in New England during the 1800s and rarely rises from the underbelly of society; a society of thieves, grave robbers and snake oil salesmen. At the centre is Ren, an Oliver Twist of a boy who was abandoned at a rural Catholic orphanage as a baby. He has only one hand and this means that his chances of being adopted out as a farm labourer are slim. When con man Benjamin Nab — aren’t the Dickensian names just great!? — turns up and poses as Ren’s brother, Ren is released into his care. Then the strange

and unpredictable adventures begin. In the end it is a wild and woolly tale of faith and redemption. Like Huck Finn, the book is told in a regional vernacular and continually grabs you and makes you squirm in earthy delight. It’s an award winner and well worth a read. To escape from realism and grit you can get a dose of belly laugh humour from the newly released Jeeves books by PG Wodehouse. There are 11 novels in the series about Jeeves, the valet to a scatterbrained, minor English aristocrat, Bertie Wooster. The books were written from 1924 onward and are classic portrayals of the British class system in between the great wars. We laugh at Bertie’s escapades with his upperclass friends — all who have silly names like Boko Fittleworth or Gussie Fink and belong to the lay about Drones club. Jeeves is known for his speeches and for quoting Shakespeare and the great poets. In his free time he reads philosophy or historical novels. He moves about silently and observes all. His concoctions for making or curing hangovers are famous. He saves Bertie time and time again from embarrassing situations and is the man servant to beat all man servants. Wodehouse is described as “the funniest writer to put words to paper” and once you get hooked it’s hard to give up the habit. For kids with spirit and adventurous parents, you can’t go past the Vietnamese version of Cinderella. It’s called Tam Cam and is in bilingual format with brilliant illustrations. Like western fairy tales it’s been changed a bit to take out the really gruesome bits, but it hasn’t been bambinambi-Disneyfied or cutesied up. The original had that great ending where Tan Cam gets her revenge on her stepmother by boiling up her step sister and making fish sauce out of her in a big vat. She sends the fish sauce to the wicked Mum who gradually eats it all and finds the daughter’s head at the bottom and then kills herself. In the prettied up version the boiling bit is left in but the fish sauce cannibalism is unfortunately omitted. The Mother still commits suicide, though, and children will still be delighted. — Find Truong @ Bookworm, 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh.

The Word September 2011 | 87

medical that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture. Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around US$7 for a one-on-one lesson.

YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER 3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice. Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

ZENITH YOGA 3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town. Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for US$10 and a month unlimited class pass costs US$85.

SWIMMING POOLS ARMY HOTEL 33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896

FOUR SEASONS 14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

fashion

Medical Listings

1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

88 | The Word September 2011

Fashion Listings

ISALYNA

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drugfree methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

YAKUSHI CENTER Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

COSMETICS PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh, Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery. The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER

Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da , Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic. The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

ONE DENTAL CLINIC 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168, www.onedentalvietnam.com Dentist Michel Mitre has gathered a loyal following during his 15 years of practicing dentistry in Hanoi and now has his own practice in West Lake. Everything from a regular cleaning to tooth whitening and dental surgery is offered in a calm, relaxed environment.

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC 51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. This is the place to go when your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you fall down and break a tooth. Competent doctors and fast service.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555, www.westcoastinternational. The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who share a vision to deliver modern, highlevel dental services throughout Vietnam. From the waiting room to the chair, the clinic is designed to provide the highest quality technology, comfort and afterservice care to patients.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, services include routine newborn and well-child check-ups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy for every milestone in your child’s life, from infancy to adolescence.

FRENCH HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: 3577 1100 This was the first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offers everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff that speak good French and English.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of

services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

PHARMACIES H CLINIC 24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay, Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

NHA THUA VINH PHUC 625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

ULTIMATE NUTRITION Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

VETS ANIMAL CARE 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN Tel: 0903 223217 vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as a selection of products for all animal needs. Products can be ordered online via their website.

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 089 CLOTHING 089 LINGERIE 089 SHOPPING MALLS 089

SPORTSWEAR 090 TAILORS 090 OPTICIANS & GLASSES 090

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR

THREE TREES

BOO SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

EURO FASHION SHOES 26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

EURO SHOES 320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

HANDMADE SHOES 18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP 62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

IPA-NIMA

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

TINA SPARKLE 17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

VIETNAM OPTICAL 138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN 19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

COCO SILK 37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories. Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

CONTRABAND

KINH MAT HA THANH

EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY 21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong and South-East Asia.

LOUIS VUITTON Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity. 45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

HANOI SILK Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

KANA 41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

KEN SHOP 108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

KENLY SILK 108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

KHAI SILK 133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

LUALA BOUTIQUE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-focused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

MARIE-LINH COUTURE

SONG 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

TAN MY 66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton. The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

TAN MY DESIGN 61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

VINATEX 25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

LINGERIE ANA MAI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella.

AUBADE 52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

MINOSHE 59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

SHOPPING MALLS

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem; 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills. The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture.

HANOI TOWERS

MOON

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

NAGU 20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL

PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

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TRANG TIEN PLAZA

ZONE GOLF

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range. Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day at the course.

VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS 83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.BALL 65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel: 3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

NIKE Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

TOLIA Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Đuc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS 250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the western-most end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-range suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

DONKEY BAKERY

NGOC SHOP 64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs. The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

MS TAM Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

THANH HA 114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians - the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services - but if its sunglasses with brand names superglued on top, here is the place.

THU HA KINH THUOC 134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and non-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

VIETNAMOPTICAL 48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

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BAKERIES

KINH DO

INTIMEX

126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

BAKERIES 090 CRAFTS 090 FURNITURE 090

18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

METRO

Home Listings

8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

LE CROISSANT 21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

LA CASA

GROCERIES 091 LIQUOR & WINE 091 MARKETS 091

MARIE LINH HOME DECOR 38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

VIETNAM QUILTS

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4831 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

FURNITURE BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

BELLIZENO 130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

CARPET STREET

PARIS DELI 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

THU HUONG BAKERY 35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

CRAFTS CRAFTLINK 43 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

INDIGENOUS 36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

CHI VANG 63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

COTYLEDON 1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP 35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

GRAND BOIS Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

HANOI MOMENT 101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer

such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Hanoi Tel: 844 3718 4084 15 Nha Chung, Hanoi Tel: 844 3828 9616 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

HUNG LONG MINIMART

MAI LONG

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

MAROON 156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

MOSAIQUE 6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6181 This home furnishings shop specialises in unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pillow covers, but also carries other colorful bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of all purchases.

UMA CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

VELVET UNDERGROUND Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

GROCERIES AU DELICE 3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

BETTERDAY 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3511 Specialising in organic and fair trade coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also offers an array of products for mindful living. Find perfumes and candles by Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly laundry detergent, all natural jams, and virgin coconut oil in this boutique food shop.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS 19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

PUNTO ITALIA

VINE CELLAR DOOR 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON 18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 91 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3718 0577 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

THE OASIS 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

LIQUOR & WINE BACCHUS CORNER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

DA LOC 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

HANOI GOURMET 1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

MARKETS CHO HOM Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

CHO SINH VIEN Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students. Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble. The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late. Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

DONG XUAN Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS A DONG PHOTO CO 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732

This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses.

ALPHA LAPTOP 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases.

FUONG MAY ANH 5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses.

NGUYEN CAU 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints. Services include photo mounting and passport photos.

VU NHAT CAMERA 20 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 5161

This family-owned business, which has been selling cameras for two generations, offers a wide range of lenses and camera bodies.

COMPUTERS AND ELECTRONICS DK COMPUTER 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices.

HA KHANH MOBILE 1/24 Dao Tan, Ba Dinh

Mobile phone retail and repair shop offering discount prices on a wide range of phones.

HANOI AUDIO 11B Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3826 0308

Located centrally, near the Hanoi Opera house, this electronics store retails high-end audio equipment.

HI-TECH USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 6261

A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands.

PICO PLAZA 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine.

PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER CARE AND IT SERVICES 28B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0983 011081

This service company can help with a just about any computer-related task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development. On-site and off-site service, and free quotes.

VIETSAD 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3747 8771

FLOWER MARKET Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enough. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

VU LUONG TV 39Z Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7736

One of the many electronics stores along Hai Ba Trung, selling all types of computer accessories, televisions, modems and monitors.

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tiêng viêt Töông Lai Neàn AÂm Nhaïc

Vieät Nam Caác nhoám nhaåc vaâ sên khêëu biïíu diïîn múái xuêët hiïån röìi tan raä nhiïìu nhû sûå chuyïín giao cuãa thúâi tiïët Haâ Nöåi. Lizo Glennard àaä ài sêu vaâo bûác tranh toaân caãnh êm nhaåc Viïåt Nam àïí cho chuáng ta thêëy nhûäng giai àoaån maâ noá àaä traãi qua, cuäng nhû nhûäng gò tûúng lai àang chúâ àoán nïìn êm nhaåc nûúác nhaâ

oaân toaân khöng coá kïë hoaåch tûâ trûúác," Ngö Hoaâng Kiïn nhúá laåi, möåt tia saáng vïì nhûäng ngaây huy hoaâng chúåt loáe lïn trong mùæt anh. "Nhûng àoá laâ möåt àïm tuyïåt vúâi nhêët trong cuöåc àúâi biïíu diïîn cuãa töi." Ðoá laâ kyá ûác maâ tay bass trong nhoám nhaåc Small Fire tiïn phong vïì thïí loaåi Numetal (möåt thïí loaåi nhaåc kïët húåp rock vaâ rap) nhúá laåi vïì àïm biïíu diïîn chaâo mûâng Thiïn

92 | The Word September 2011

niïn kyã múái cuãa nhoám hún 11 nùm vïì trûúác. Ðïm àoá, trong luác chûúng trònh bõ thay àöíi möåt caách laå luâng, nhoám cuãa anh böîng nhiïn àûúåc múâi biïíu diïîn, àiïìu naây hoaân toaân nùçm ngoaâi chûúng trònh chñnh thûác. Caã thaânh phöë àang chòm trong giêy phuát ngêët ngêy nïn chûúng trònh àaä coá möåt ngoaåi lïå duy nhêët àoá. Lêìn lûúåt tûâng nhoám nhaåc àïën tûâ khùæp núi trong thaânh phöë quy tuå vïì àêy. Bûäa tiïåc tûng bûâng cho àïën têån luác mùåt trúâi moåc. "Nhaåc rock àûúåc coi laâ loaåi nhaåc xa rúâi xaä höåi…nhòn chung moåi ngûúâi gheát noá," Kiïn noái.

Hêìu hïët caác nhoám nhaåc trong àïm àoá àïìu biïët nhau. Vò phêìn lúán hoå àaä hoåc cuâng möåt trûúâng vaâ àûúåc tiïëp cêån vúái möåt thïí loaåi nhaåc múái, du nhêåp vaâo Viïåt Nam cuâng vúái sûå phaát triïín cuãa nïìn kinh tïë. Ðaä qua röìi caái thúâi baån phaãi hoåc qua Nhaåc Viïån Quöëc Gia àïí coá thïí trúã thaânh nhaåc syä. Möåt kyã nguyïn múái àaä bùæt àêìu. Viïåt Nam dêìn múã cûãa ra cöång àöìng thïë giúái vaâo nhûäng nùm 90 vaâ cuäng theo àoá doâng nhaåc rock vaâ pop àaä du nhêåp vaâo. Cuâng luác àoá, möåt böå phêån lao àöång Viïåt Nam trúã vïì tûâ nhûäng nûúác thuöåc khöëi Ðöng Êu vaâ Liïn Xö cuä àaä goáp phêìn

giúái thiïåu vïì nûúác mònh thïí loaåi nhaåc àiïån tûã hard trance vaâ techno (möåt thïí loaåi nhaåc nhaãy söi àöång) thöng qua nhûäng chiïëc bùng casette maâ hoå mang theo vïì. Nhûäng aánh lûãa cuöëi cuâng cuãa nhûäng ban nhaåc chuyïín giao giûäa caác thïë kyã nhû Small Fire, nhûäng ngûúâi àaä àuâa vui rùçng hoå bùæt àêìu saáng taác nhaåc vúái nhau "àïí phuåc vuå caác fan hêm möå nûä, hún laâ vò tiïìn baåc" àaä nguöåi tùæt tûâ lêu. Sau naây kiïím nghiïåm laåi, cöng bùçng maâ noái, Small Fire vaâ nhûäng ban nhaåc sau hoå nhû Gaåt Taân Ðêìy, Atmosphere, Buratinox, The Light, Thuãy Triïìu Ðoã vaâ nhoám nhaåc rock nöíi tiïëng nhêët moåi thúâi àaåi cuãa Viïåt Nam, nhoám Bûác Tûúâng, cuäng khöng hùèn laâ taác nhên cho cuöåc caách maång êm nhaåc àêìy nhiïåt huyïët, hoå phaãn aánh nhûäng gò àaä àûúåc sùæp àùåt àïí xaãy ra. Sau khi ra album àêìu tay Ngûúåc Doâng nùm 2005, nhoám nhaåc naây àaä giaãi nghïå. "Chuáng töi thêëy bïë tùæc," gioång ca chñnh cuãa nhoám, Lï Anh Quên noái. "Chuáng töi möîi ngûúâi coá möåt dûå àõnh riïng cho cuöåc söëng, vò thïë nhoám tan raä." Taåi thuã àö cuãa möåt trong nhûäng nïìn kinh tïë phaát triïín nhanh nhêët thïë giúái, liïåu ngaây nay möåt nhoám nhaåc nhû Small Fire coá thïí taåo dûång sûå nghiïåp cuãa mònh qua êm nhaåc? Ðöëi vúái Quên, cêu traã lúâi laâ khöng, nhûng theo möåt caách cam chõu, chûá khöng phaãi nuöëi tiïëc. Röìi anh noái möåt cêu quen thuöåc "Bêy giúâ mònh chó haát möîi khi úã trong buöìng tùæm thöi."

Sûác Maånh cuãa Nïìn Cöng Nghiïåp Möåt phêìn tû thïë kyã qua, viïåc xuêët hiïån traân ngêåp cuãa nhûäng saãn phêím vaâ cöng nghïå múái tiïëp sûác búãi nhûäng chñnh saách phaát triïín kinh tïë àaä cho pheáp sûå tiïën hoáa cuãa bûác tranh êm nhaåc cuãa thuã àö, caái maâ àùåc biïåt khaác laå so vúái nhûäng thïë hïå trûúác àoá. Khi êm nhaåc àaä khùæc sêu vaâo möîi nhõp àiïåu cuãa cuöåc söëng thaânh thõ haâng ngaây, Viïåt Nam coá cêu noái dêîn àûúâng cho traâo lûu karaoke moåi luác moåi núi: "Haát hay khöng bùçng hay haát". Nïìn cöng nghiïåp pop chùæp caánh vaâ trúã nïn lúán maånh úã caã Haâ nöåi noái riïng vaâ Viïåt Nam noái chung. Lúåi duång thõ hiïëu êm nhaåc thõnh haânh "khaát" nhaåc pop coá lêîn húi hûúáng Ðöng AÁ, thõ trûúâng nhaåc thõnh haânh cuãa Viïåt Nam giang tay àoán nhêån sûå xuêët hiïån cuãa nhûäng diva, ban nhaåc nam, thúâi trang maát meã vaâ àöi khi laâ caã nhûäng vuå scandal cuãa "sao". Mùåc duâ têët caã nhûäng àiïìu àoá, hay cuäng coá thïí laâ búãi vò têët caã nhûäng àiïìu àoá maâ rêët nhiïìu nhûäng nhoám nhaåc àûúng àaåi hay nhaåc phöí biïën àaä trúã thaânh chúi vúi. Thûúâng nhûäng thïí loaåi nhaåc nhû rock, hip-hop, hay nhaåc àiïån tûã àûúåc gùæn cho caái maác "nhaåc thûã nghiïåm" hay "nhaåc àöåc lêåp". Nhûäng xu hûúáng vaâ êm nhaåc thõnh haânh (nhû pop) àûúåc khaán giaã nêng niu hún, taåo cho nhûäng thïí loaåi nhaåc thûã nghiïåm nhiïìu

khoá khùn àïí ài ngûúåc laåi vúái xu hûúáng chung àùåc biïåt laâ trong möåt möi trûúâng maâ thûúâng thò caác bûúác ài àoá khöng àûúåc àaánh giaá cao. Nhûäng ngûúâi khöng thuöåc traâo lûu êm nhaåc thõnh haânh thûúâng bõ queát ra möåt bïn vaâ phaãi gùåm nhêëm nhûäng maãnh rúi vaäi cuãa nïìn cöng nghiïåp êm nhaåc phöí biïën àang ngaây möåt múã röång. Trong khi coá rêët ñt höî trúå cho nghïå thuêåt àûúng àaåi úã Viïåt Nam, nhûäng àêìu tû cho nhaåc syä vaâ quaãng baá hònh aãnh cho nhûäng thïí loaåi nhaåc khöng thuöåc nhaåc cuãa nïìn cöng nghiïåp thõnh haânh, ngay caã cho àïën gêìn àêy vêîn àûúåc gaánh vaác chuã yïëu búãi nhûäng trung têm vùn hoáa úã Haâ Nöåi nhû LEspace, viïån Goethe, vaâ Höåi àöìng Anh.

Giai Ðiïåu Múái Tuy nhiïn moåi viïåc àaä bùæt àêìu coá bûúác tiïën hoáa. Nhûäng loaåi êm nhaåc tûâ "ngoaâi lïì" maâ ai cuäng biïët àoá bùæt àêìu löi cuöën vaâ kïu goåi àûúåc àêìu tû tûâ caác cöng ty àïí giuáp chia seã möåt phêìn gaánh nùång kinh tïë cêìn thiïët àïí xêy dûång lïn möåt bûác tranh êm nhaåc traân àêìy sûác söëng vaâ àa daång. Nhûäng nhaâ thûúng maåi khöíng löì nhû Mobifone, Honda, Yamaha, Pepsi vaâ Tiger àaä nhanh nheån trong viïåc hûúãng lúåi tûâ thõ trûúâng nhaåc rock vaâ hip-hop àang phaát triïín bùçng caách taâi trúå cho caác chûúng trònh lúán, thaânh cöng nhû Rock Storm vaâ Tiger Translate. Khöng chó mang laåi lúåi ñch lúán cho caác ban nhaåc vaâ nhûäng ngûúâi hêm möå, nhûäng chûúng trònh nhû thïë àaä àoáng vai troâ nhû möåt cöåt möëc cuãa bûác tranh êm nhaåc Viïåt Nam, nay khöng coân laâ nhûäng húåp taác chó chuá troång vaâo caác diva hay nhûäng giai àiïåu cuãa nhaåc treã Haân Quöëc. Bïn caånh nhûäng nhaâ taâi chñnh, nhûäng töí chûác àöåc lêåp nhû C.A.M.A, Hanoi Rock City hay Synergy àaä bùæt àêìu têën cöng vaâo möi trûúâng àang thiïëu caác nhaâ quaãng baá chuyïn nghiïåp. Nhûäng nhaâ saáng taác nhaåc tiïn phong nhû Kim Ngoåc hay nghïå syä nhaåc àiïån tûã Trñ Minh cuäng àang rêët nùng àöång, bùçng niïìm tin cuãa mònh, töí chûác ra nhûäng sûå kiïån mang têìm voác lúán nhû Hanoi New Music va Haâ Nöåi Sound Stuff. Nhûäng chûúng trònh àoá àaä tòm kiïëm cú höåi àïí quaãng baá cho têët caã nhûäng nhûäng nghïå syä Viïåt Nam thuöåc thïí loaåi êm nhaåc nùçm ngoaâi nhaåc thõnh haânh. Cuöëi cuâng thò möåt bïå àúä chùæc chùæn cho nïìn êm nhaåc thûã nghiïåm àang bûúác àêìu àûúåc taåo dûång nhûng nhûäng thaânh cöng cuãa noá coân àang khaá haån chïë. Möåt söë nhaåc syä vaâ ngûúâi hêm möå vêîn khöng àûúåc thuyïët phuåc lùæm khi nghô vïì tûúng lai cuãa nïìn êm nhaåc naây. Möåt bùçng chûáng roä raâng cho nhûäng lo ngaåi àoá laâ söë lûúång ñt oãi nhûäng ngûúâi thñch thuá vúái nhûäng thïí loaåi êm nhaåc múái laå, khöng phaãi laâ nhûäng diva nhaåc pop hay caác quaán karaoke. "Coá leä (khaán giaã) thñch xem nhûäng chûúng trònh

biïíu diïîn haát nheáp trïn TV hún," tay guitar Nguyïîn Maånh Huâng noái trong thêët voång. Sau cuâng thò coá möåt hiïån thûåc laâ nhûäng quaán karaoke múái múã trong thuã àö thò tiïëp tuåc moåc lïn, nhûng nhûäng cêu laåc böå nhaåc thûã nghiïåm thò coá rêët ñt cú höåi söëng soát. Matador, Blues Bar, Ban Mai Cafeá, nhûäng núi nhû Heresy cuä hay Black Pearl àaä ngûâng hoaåt àöång trong ba nùm vûâa röìi. Tuy nhiïn, möåt söë ngûúâi khaác thò laåc quan hún. "Thûúâng thò rêët dïî àïí chó trñch vïì nghïå thuêåt. Ngûúâi ta thûúâng chó dûâng viïåc nhaåo baáng noá sau khi noá àaä trúã thaânh lõch sûã," öng chuã cuãa möåt tuå àiïím êm nhaåc àaä noái nhû vêåy. Nhûng êm nhaåc vêîn chûa thïí trúã thaânh nguöìn kiïëm söëng chñnh thûác cuãa doanh nhên naây vò anh vêîn àang phaãi coá thïm nghïì tay traái àïí coá thïm thu nhêåp. Anh cuäng noái thïm: "Töi rêët vui khi thêëy tuåi treã bêy giúâ coá nhûäng thûá maâ ngaây xûa chuáng töi khöng coá àûúåc úã Haâ Nöåi: nhûäng trang thiïët bõ chêët lûúång, phoâng thu êm ngay úã trong phoâng ùn cuãa gia àònh, internet vaâ quan troång nhêët laâ möåt quyïët têm gùæn boá vúái viïåc viïët nhaåc nguyïn baãn. Vúái àiïìu àoá thò töi hoaân toaân khöng coá yá àõnh chó trñch hay nhaåo baáng gò." Ðöëi vúái bêët kyâ ngûúâi hêm möå êm nhaåc naâo núi àêy àang "khaát" möåt möi trûúâng êm nhaåc chêët lûúång, coá leä cuäng nïn nhúá rùçng àöi khi coá luác chuáng ta phaãi laâm viïåc vêët vaã hún vaâ phaãi àúåi chúâ lêu hún àïí tòm àûúåc caái mònh mong muöën, nhûng cuäng laâ möåt lúåi thïë khi chuáng ta àûúåc chûáng kiïën möåt con sû tûã àang lùæc lû caái àêìu trûúác khi noá cêët tiïëng gêìm. ÚÃ möåt thaânh phöë nhû Haâ Nöåi vaâ trong möåt nïìn êm nhaåc núi maâ moåi thûá coá thïí thay àöíi nhanh choáng, chùèng ai coá thïí àoaán trûúác àûúåc liïåu möåt ngaây tiïëng gêìm àoá coá thïí trúã nïn maånh meä, àïën nöîi têån bïn nûãa kia cuãa traái àêët, ngûúâi ta cuäng coá thïí nghe àûúåc noá.

"Nhûäng ngûúâi khöng thuöåc traâo lûu êm nhaåc thõnh haânh thûúâng bõ queát ra möåt bïn vaâ phaãi gùåm nhêëm nhûäng maãnh rúi vaäi cuãa nïìn cöng nghiïåp êm nhaåc phöí biïën àang ngaây möåt múã röång." The Word September 2011 | 93

Taâ MaõSyõo Nhöõn ng Ngheä cuûa Naêm

1. NGUYÏÎN VÔNH TIÏËN

Ca syä, diïîn viïn

Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Dên gian àûúng àaåi Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Ngoåc Ðaåi, Lï Minh Sún, Giaáng Son, Nguyïîn Ðûác Cûúâng, Lï Thanh Têm Taác phêím hay nhêët: Gioåt Sûúng Bay Lïn vaâ Baâ Töi trong album Gioåt Sûúng Bay Lïn Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Youtube

Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Pop Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Beyonce, Britney Spears, Celine Dion vaâ Whitney Houston Taác phêím hay nhêët: Nhõp Ðêåp Traái Tim Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: hoangthuylinh.vn

"Con àûúâng höåi nhêåp têët yïëu laâ caác ca khuác phaãi coá ngön tûâ tiïëng Anh, tiïëng Phaáp, hoùåc tiïëng Têy Ban Nha, v.v… àïí nhaåc àûúng àaåi cuãa Viïåt Nam coá thïí bay ra thïë giúái àûúåc."

"Mònh giöëng nhû hai con ngûúâi khaác hùèn nhau, trïn sên khêëu vaâ ngoaâi àúâi. Trïn sên khêëu, mònh rêët lûãa, rêët nhiïåt huyïët, maånh meä, khaát voång, thñch thïí hiïån mònh. Nhûng ngoaâi àúâi mònh söëng khaá kheáp kñn."

2. NGOÅC KHUÏ

4. PHOÁ AN MY

Ca syä chñnh cuãa nhoám Flamenco, ca syä sö-lö

Nghïå syä dûúng cêìm, kïët húåp vúái nhaâ soaån nhaåc Ðùång Tuïå Nguyïn

Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Dên ca àöìng bùçng Bùæc Böå kïët húåp vúái nhaåc blues, jazz, rock, hay pop Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Bjork, Nguyïîn Cûúâng, Phoá Ðûác Phûúng, Nguyïîn Vônh Tiïën, Lï Minh Sún Ca khuác cêìn phaãi nghe: Bïn Búâ Ao Nhaâ Mònh trong album cuâng tïn Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: baamboo.net vaâ nhacso.net

Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Ðöëi thoaåi Ðöng-Têy; kïët húåp nhaåc piano cöí àiïín, cêån àaåi vúái caác loaåi hònh nghïå thuêåt dên gian nhû chêìu vùn, tuöìng, haát then Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Ludwig Van Beethoven, Sergei Prokofiev, nghïå syä biïíu diïîn nhaåc dên gian Taác phêím hay nhêët: Möîi taác phêím coá möåt àùåc trûng riïng. Möîi lêìn biïíu diïîn laâ möåt sûå thay àöíi, tiïëp tuåc hoaân thiïån mònh nïn khoá coá thïí noái taác phêím naâo cuãa mònh laâ hay nhêët àûúåc. Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: phoanmy.com

94 | The Word September 2011

3. HOAÂNG THUÂY LINH

Nhaåc syä, kiïën truác sû, nhaâ thú, nhaâ vùn

"Moåi ngûúâi gùæn cho Khuï rêët nhiïìu biïåt danh nhû Chuöìn chuöìn úát vaâ gêìn àêy hún laâ Thõ Mêìu Ngoåc Khuï. Nhûäng biïåt danh àoá rêët àaáng yïu, gêìn guäi vúái thiïn nhiïn vaâ mang àêåm maâu sùæc vùn hoáa Viïåt Nam. Khuï rêët thñch."

"Mònh nghô têët caã ngûúâi laâm nghïå thuêåt, khi biïíu diïîn thò cuäng chñnh laâ luác hoå àang nhêåp àöìng, hoå trúã thaânh möåt con ngûúâi khaác."

The Word September 2011 | 95

7. QUYÏÌN THIÏÅN ÐÙÆC Nghïå syä keân saxophone tenor vaâ soprano, dûúng cêìm vaâ tröëng Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Jazz vúái húi hûúáng cuãa nhaåc dên gian Viïåt Nam Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Quyïìn Vùn Minh (böë), John Coltrane, Branford Marsalis, Joe Lovano and George Garzone Taác phêím hay nhêët: Ngêîu Hûáng Nam Bùæc Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Cêu laåc böå Jazz Bònh Minh, 65 Quaán Sûá, Q. Hoaân Kiïëm

"Chuáng töi khöng bao giúâ chúi nhaåc Jazz theo kiïíu Myä hay Chêu Êu. Khi chuáng töi chúi Jazz, àoá laâ Jazz Viïåt Nam."

7 5. UYÏN LINH Ca syä, Viïåt Nam Idol 2010 Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Pop Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Michael Jackson vaâ Whitney Houston Taác phêím hay nhêët: Chó Laâ Giêëc Mú Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Caác chûúng trònh àïìu àûúåc thöng baáo röång raäi qua cöng ty Thanh Viïåt Production hoùåc trïn Facebook cuãa Uyïn Linh

"Trúã thaânh Viïåt Nam Idol 2010 laâ möåt bûúác ngoùåt trong cuöåc àúâi cuãa Linh. Trûúác àêy, Linh khöng hoåc nhaåc, chó thñch ca haát thöi. Bêy giúâ Linh trúã thaânh ca syä."

8. PHÛÚNG ÐÙÅNG Nhaåc syä, nghïå syä dûúng cêìm, hoåa syä Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Doâng piano rock, thïí hiïån êm nhaåc cöí àiïín vaâ goác caånh Nghïå syä/Ban nhaåc yïu thñch: Fiona Apple, Muse, Portishead and Tori Amos Taác phêím hay nhêët: Haäy kiïn nhêîn chúâ àúåi caác taác phêím sùæp thu cuãa Phûúng Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Biïíu diïîn thûá Ba haâng tuêìn taåi Cinematheque, (22A Hai Baâ Trûng, Q. Hoaân Kiïëm)

"Rêët nhiïìu thûá bõ mêët ài taác phêím cuãa baån àûúåc thu êm — nhû caái nhiïåt huyïët khi biïíu diïîn àoá."

9. NHOÁM ÐAÅI LÊM LINH 6. BUSH LAM Nghïå syä chúi bass trong nhoám AKAT vaâ Sky Burial, DJ nhaåc dub Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Khi chúi trong ban nhaåc: Psychedelic metal (möåt thïí loaåi rock); DJ: dub step vaâ reggae Ban nhaåc/nghïå syä yïu thñch: Om, Sleep, Black Sabbath, Burning Spear, Peter Tosh, King Tubby vaâ Flying Lotus Taác phêím hay nhêët: Ùn Maây, chúi trong nhoám AKAT Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: DJ taåi Hanoi Rock City, àiïìu haânh chûúng trònh Skank the Tank vaâ caác chûúng trònh töí chûác búãi Wasted Youth of a Nation

8 96 | The Word September 2011

"Ðam mï cuãa Bush cho êm nhaåc nhiïìu nhû thïë naâo? Ðoá chñnh laâ cêu hoãi."

Ngoåc Ðaåi: nhaâ soaån nhaåc vaâ chúi piano, Lêm vaâ Linh: haát Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Doâng nhaåc thûã nghiïåm bùæt nguöìn tûâ êm nhaåc truyïìn thöëng Viïåt Nam AÃnh hûúãng: Nhûäng nghïå syä khaám phaá nhûäng maãnh àêët múái cuãa êm nhaåc Taác phêím nïn xem: Böå phim taâi liïåu Nhêåt Thûåc kïí vïì sûå ra àúâi cuãa nhoám nhaåc, cöng viïåc biïíu diïîn vaâ thu êm cuãa hoå Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Nhoám nhaåc hiïån taåi taåm ngûng biïíu diïîn nhûng àôa nhaåc àêìu tay cuãa hoå coá thïí àûúåc tòm mua qua Facebook cuãa nhoám

"Khi baån noái bùçng ngön tûâ, ngûúâi ta coá thïí hiïíu àûúåc baån. Nhûng khi baån giao tiïëp thöng qua möåt caách khaác ngoaâi ngön ngûä, ngûúâi ta coá thïí caãm nhêån àûúåc àiïìu àoá möåt caách sêu sùæc hún."

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10. VUÄ NHÊÅT TÊN Nhaâ soaån nhaåc, giaãng viïn Hoåc viïån êm nhaåc quöëc gia Viïåt Nam, biïíu diïîn nhaåc àiïån tûã ngêîu hûáng cuâng vúái Nhoám Vuä Nhêåt Tên Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Thûã nghiïåm, nghïå thuêåt sùæp àùåt êm thanh (soundscapes) vaâ ngêîu hûáng (improv) AÃnh hûúãng: Tön Thêët Tiïët Taác phêím nïn nghe: Sleepless Night Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: www.myspace.com/vunhattan hoùåc vunhattan.multipy.com

"Töi àoâi hoãi caác nhaåc syä Viïåt Nam coá tñnh saáng taåo hún, tûå mònh saáng taác, thay vò chó sao cheáp."

11. SCOTT EZELL

Ca syä/nhaåc syä, hoåa syä, nhaâ vùn, nhaâ soaån nhaåc Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Caác taác phêím mang húi hûúáng dên gian, ambient (nghïå thuêåt thõ giaác) vaâ àiïån tûã AÃnh hûúãng: Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen vaâ Tom Waits Taác phêím nïn nghe: Exiles In Love, Electroluminex vaâ Migrations (biïíu diïîn vúái Nhoám Vuä Nhêåt Tên) Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Biïíu diïîn taåi caác sên khêëu khaác nhau úã Haâ Nöåi, vûâa solo vaâ cuâng vúái Nhoám Vuä Nhêt Tên. Cuäng coá thïí xem qua www.scottezell.org

13. TRÊÌN THÕ KIM NGOÅC

"Caái truyïìn caãm hûáng cho töi laâ sûå diïîn àaåt chên thûåc cuãa caá nhên vaâ tñnh liïm chñnh trong quaá trònh saáng taåo hay nöî lûåc cuãa mònh."

"Nghïå syä cuäng nhû nhûäng con chim. Ðêët laânh chim àêåu."

12. HAÂ ÐÒNH HUY Nghïå syä Goä nhaåc nheå Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Chúi trong nhoám nhaåc jazz, punk, salsa, flamenco kïët húåp möåt caách saáng taåo vúái nhaåc àiïån tûã vaâ nhaåc dên gian Viïåt Nam AÃnh hûúãng: Santana, Chick Corea vaâ Raul Rekow Taác phêím nïn nghe: Haäy xem trûåc tiïëp luác Huy biïíu diïîn Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Thûá Tû vaâ thûá Saáu haâng tuêìn biïíu diïîn taåi Sandbox (12 Phan Huy Ñch, Q. Ba Ðònh). Ðöi khi biïíu diïîn taåi New Square cuâng vúái caác DJ vaâ taåi CLB Jazz Bònh Minh

Nhaâ soaån nhaåc, nghïå syä dûúng cêìm, ca syä Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Nhaåc sên khêëu thûã nghiïåm Nghïå syä yïu thñch: Mauricio Kagel, Manos Tsangaris Taác phêím hay nhêët: Together Alone (Cuâng Nhau Ðún Ðöåc) Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Thöng tin vïì buöíi biïíu diïîn trïn caác website Viïån Geothe, Trung têm vùn hoáa Phaáp, Höåi àöìng Anh

14. GOLEM Nhoám nhaåc àöåc lêåp Thïí loaåi nhaåc: Ðöåc lêåp/punk rock Nhoám nhaåc yïu thñch: Yeah, Yeah, Yeahs Taác phêím nïn nghe: Haäy àúåi xem nhûäng ca khuác àang thu cuãa nhoám Xem/nghe biïíu diïîn úã àêu: Caác sên khêëu khaác nhau úã Haâ Nöåi

"Moåi ngûúâi àïí yá quaá nhiïìu àïën viïåc chuáng töi laâ con gaái chúi nhaåc rock. Hoå khöng quan têm àïën êm nhaåc chuáng töi chúi."

"Nhûäng nghïå syä phûúng Têy thûúâng biïíu diïîn vúái 90 phêìn trùm àam mï, vaâ chó coá 10 phêìn trùm taâi nùng. Coân caác nhaåc syä Viïåt Nam biïíu diïîn thò vúái 90 phêìn trùm taâi nùng vaâ chó coá 10 phêìn trùm àam mï. Töi thuöåc vïì caái 10 phêìn trùm àoá."

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The Word September 2011 | 99

$ Kinh Doanh

AÂm Nhaïc C

Tûúng lai tûúi saáng àang chúâ àúåi nïìn cöng nghiïåp êm nhaåc Viïåt Nam — àùåc biïåt laâ nïëu nhûäng nghïå syä trong nûúác têån duång àûúåc baâi hoåc tûâ nhûäng nïìn êm nhaåc thïë giúái maâ hoå àaä tiïëp xuác. Viïët do Debbie Clare

uöåc söëng úã Viïåt Nam laâ möåt baãn nhaåc giaâu maâu sùæc vaâ àa daång, cuäng nhû nhûäng moán ùn trïn àûúâng phöë hay nhûäng haâng quaán trong caác ngöi chúå truyïìn thöëng, vaâ cuäng khöng mêët quaá lêu àïí baån bùæt àêìu lûu yá àïën êm nhaåc úã àêy. Êm nhaåc coá mùåt úã moåi núi, vaâ sûå hiïån diïån xuyïn suöët, liïn tuåc cuãa noá taåo ra nhûäng cú höåi cho möåt nïìn cöng nghiïåp maâ baãn thên noá àaä bùæt àêìu tûå nhêån ra nhûäng tiïìm nùng cuãa mònh, trong möåt thõ trûúâng phaát triïín nhanh úã Chêu AÁ nhû Viïåt Nam. Trong nhûäng nïìn êm nhaåc trïn thïë giúái, caác nhoám nhaåc hay nghïå syä sau nhiïìu lêìn kyá kïët vúái nhûäng haäng coá tïn tuöíi lúán, dêìn dêìn, hoå trúã thaânh möåt àöåi nguä nhûäng chuyïn gia àaä àûúåc goåt giuäa vaâ àêìy kinh nghiïåm. Ðïí kyá kïët möåt húåp àöìng thu êm, phaãi coá luêåt sû, vaâ àïí taác phêím àoá àûúåc ài vaâo hoaåt àöång, phaãi coá nhaâ xuêët baãn. Ðïí thûåc hiïån àûúåc möåt lûu diïîn giúái thiïåu taác phêím àoá, phaãi coá möåt nhên viïn triïín khai, vaâ trong lûu diïîn àoá, seä phaãi coá

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möåt ngûúâi quaãn lyá, möåt kyä sû êm thênh, möåt kyä thuêåt viïn vïì ghi-ta, möåt ngûúâi quaãn lyá trang thiïët bõ sên khêëu, möåt kyä sû maân hònh, vaâ möåt chuyïn gia thiïët kïë aánh saáng. Nhûng baån cuäng khöng thïí laâm lûu diïîn àoá maâ khöng coá caác hoaåt àöång truyïìn thöng, vaâ vêåy laâ baån seä cêìn möåt bïn kïnh TV, hoùåc àaâi phaát thanh, möåt cöng ty chuyïn PR saãn phêím. Röìi thò nhaåc syä laåi cêìn coá ngûúâi quaãn lyá…vaâ möåt phoâng thu êm, möåt maáy quay phim, möåt nhaâ saãn xuêët, möåt chuyïn viïn vïì nghïå thuêåt, vaâ möåt cöng ty kinh doanh saãn phêím. Ngoaâi ra coá leä coân möåt söë thûá khaác nûäa maâ töi àaä cöë gùæng àïí quïn ài sau rêët nhiïìu nùm hoaåt àöång trong nïìn cöng nghiïåp naây. Nhûng liïåu seä thïë naâo nhó nïëu baån taåm thúâi boã ài phêìn lúán nhûäng böå phêån chûác nùng àoá vaâ quay laåi vaâi thêåp kyã trûúác, vïì thúâi àiïím khi thõ trûúâng thïë giúái chûa baäo hoâa vúái viïåc saãn xuêët cuãa nhûäng nhoám nhaåc àöåc lêåp hay nhûäng idol cuãa doâng nhaåc pop? Ðoá chñnh laâ khi baån tiïëp cêån vúái thõ trûúâng nhaåc cuãa Viïåt Nam ngaây nay, khi maâ viïåc thûúãng thûác nhaåc vêîn àûúåc coi laâ khaá xa hoa, vaâ núi maâ nhûäng

nhaåc syä khöng chó söëng àún thuêìn dûåa vaâo êm nhaåc, maâ cêìn phaãi coá möåt nghïì tay traái.

Phaát Soáng Theo Nhu Cêìu

Cuäng phaãi nhòn nhêån rùçng nïìn cöng nghiïåp êm nhaåc cuãa Viïåt Nam khöng phaãi hoaân toaân khöng phaát triïín — nhûäng öng lúán trong nïìn cöng nghiïåp naây nhû Yan TV vaâ XONE FM coá khaã nùng löi cuöën àûúåc lûúång khaán thñnh giaã lïn túái haâng chuåc triïåu ngûúâi. Caã hai kïnh naây àïìu coá nhûäng hïå thöëng tûúng taác toaân diïån vúái nhûäng fan êm nhaåc àïí hoå coá thïí liïn hïå trûåc tiïëp vúái àaâi phaát soáng vaâ yïu cêìu nhûäng ca khuác maâ hoå ûa thñch hay nhûäng ca syä maâ hoå muöën giuáp trúã thaânh nöíi tiïëng. XONE FM, kïnh phaát thanh vúái tñnh chêët thûúng maåi àûúåc ûa chuöång àêìu tiïn trong giúái treã Viïåt Nam coá lûúång thñnh giaã lïn túái hún 11 triïåu ngûúâi möîi ngaây, vúái söë lûúång ngûúâi nghe úã Haâ Nöåi vaâ thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh laâ ngang nhau, vaâ khoaãng 80 phêìn trùm thñnh giaã úã vaâo àöå tuöíi dûúái 30. Öng Brenden Arnold, ngûúâi àöìng saáng lêåp kiïm giaám àöëc cuãa cöng ty naây àaä giaãi thñch vïì sûå

tûúng taác giûäa àaâi phaát soáng vaâ ngûúâi nghe nhû thïë naây: "ÚÃ Viïåt Nam khöng coá möåt baãng xïëp haång chung cho nhûäng taác phêím hay, vò vêåy chuáng töi àaä taåo ra böën baãng xïëp haång khaác nhau, phaãn aánh ba thïí loaåi nhaåc chñnh." Öng giaãi thñch thïm: "Vò vêåy chuáng töi coá ba baãng xïëp haång àïëm ngûúåc 10 ca khuác hay nhêët haâng ngaây, bao göìm caác ca khuác hay nhêët cuãa Viïåt Nam, cuãa thïë giúái, vaâ cuãa chêu AÁ, vaâ möîi tuêìn seä coá möåt baãng xïëp haång ngûúåc töíng húåp, cöång vúái möåt baãng xïëp haång 40 ca khuác hay nhêët trong caã nûúác vaâo cuöëi tuêìn. Viïåc xïëp haång naây dûåa trïn nhûäng email hay bònh choån cuãa khaán giaã trïn website, vò vêåy nhûäng baãng naây phaãn aánh trûåc tiïëp nhu cêìu nghe nhaåc cuãa söë àöng. Vúái möåt danh saách phaát soáng 60 phêìn trùm laâ nhaåc nûúác ngoaâi vaâ 40 phêìn trùm nhaåc Viïåt Nam, Breden giaãi thñch viïåc XONE FM àaä uãng höå vaâ àöång viïn nhûäng taâi nùng taåi àõa phûúng. "Chuáng töi luön múã röång àoán chaâo caác nghïå syä trong nûúác," Breden noái. "Khi möåt nhoám, möåt nghïå syä hay möåt cöng ty quaãn lyá nùng khiïëu tiïëp cêån chuáng töi vúái nhûäng chêët liïåu múái, chuáng töi uãng höå hoå bùçng caách taåo àiïìu kiïån àïí hoå sûã duång phoâng thu miïîn phñ vaâ caác chûúng trònh khuyïën maåi. Chuáng töi muöën giúái thiïåu möåt thïí loaåi múái meã nhêët túái Viïåt Nam vaâ nhûäng taâi nùng trong nûúác laâ möåt yïëu töë quan troång." Baãy mûúi phêìn trùm nhûäng ngûúâi nghe kïnh XONE FM cuäng àöìng thúâi nghe noá qua àiïån thoaåi di àöång hay trûåc tiïëp trïn maång. Ðêy laâ möåt àiïìu hïët sûác quan troång taåi möåt quöëc gia núi maâ viïåc traã phñ àïí nghe nhaåc khöng phaãi laâ viïåc phöí biïën.

"Bùæt Maåch" Thõ Hiïëu Êm Nhaåc Yan TV, kïnh truyïìn hònh haâng àêìu trong lônh vûåc êm nhaåc vaâ giaãi trñ cho giúái treã cuäng sûã duång caách thûác tûúng tûå. Ðoá laâ ngûúâi xem coá thïí yïu cêìu bêët cûá nghïå syä naâo hoå muöën xem. Trûúãng dûå aán cuãa Yan TV Khûúng Vùn Cûúâng àaä miïu taã hoaåt àöång cuãa hïå thöëng nhû sau: "Chuáng töi coá trïn 5 triïåu ngûúâi xem thöng qua caác traåm phaát soáng SCTV, HCTV, VCTC vaâ K+, vaâ saáu trang web vúái trïn 53 triïåu lûúåt xem möåt thaáng," öng Cûúâng noái. "Chuáng töi phaát soáng dûåa trïn nhu cêìu cuãa khaán giaã vaâ möåt nhoám caác chuyïn gia vaâ nhaâ nghiïn cûáu êm nhaåc. Khaán giaã cuâa chuáng töi úã àöå tuöíi tûâ 15 àïën 34, thuöåc tuyáp ngûúâi giao tiïëp röång, thñch thúâi trang vaâ khaát êm nhaåc. Öng Cûúâng cuäng miïu taã viïåc bùæt maåch àûúåc nhûäng gò àang diïîn ra trong nïìn êm nhaåc thïë giúái:"Chuáng töi muöën ruát ngùæn

khoaãng caách giûäa Viïåt Nam vaâ thïë giúái vïì lônh vûåc êm nhaåc, vò vêåy chuáng töi cöëng hiïën hïët mònh àïí tòm ra nhûäng taác phêím múái nhêët trïn thïë giúái vaâ giúái thiïåu vúái thõ trûúâng Viïåt Nam." Öng cuäng noái thïm "Chuáng töi laâm viïåc vúái Sony BMG, Universal, vaâ Mnet (Haân Quöëc) àïí chùæc chùæn rùçng chuáng töi luön cêåp nhêåt vúái nhûäng gò noáng nhêët vaâ múái nhêët." Yan TV cuäng coá baãng xïëp haång riïng cuãa noá vúái tïn goåi Yan VPOP20 àûúåc lêåp ra hoaân toaân dûåa trïn bònh choån theo tuêìn cuãa khaán giaã. Vêåy möåt nghïå syä laâm gò àïí phaát triïín tûâ viïåc chúi nhaåc úã trong nhaâ túái laâm thaânh àôa coá àuã chêët lûúång àïí àûúåc phaát trïn àaâi phaát thanh hay kïnh truyïìn hònh? Thûåc ra Viïåt Nam àaä coá nhûäng cöng ty bùng àôa nhaåc, mùåc duâ chuáng coá veã thiïn vïì viïåc cung cêëp caác thiïët bõ, dõch vuå phoâng thu cho nhaåc syä têåp dûúåt, thu êm, vaâ tiïëp nhêån nhûäng yá kiïën àoáng goáp. Nhûäng Gûúng Mùåt Êm Nhaåc (Music Faces), möåt cöng ty quaãn lyá taâi nùng àùåt taåi thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh, chuyïn cung cêëp dõch vuå saãn xuêët chûúng trònh vaâ bùng àôa nhaåc cho caác nhaåc syä treã hay àaä coá tïn tuöíi. Doanh nghiïåp naây rêët cöë gùæng àïí "xêy dûång möåt sên chúi chuyïn nghiïåp cho nhûäng gûúng mùåt vaâ thïí loaåi nhaåc múái àïí phaát triïín" vaâ tuyïn böë rùçng hoå laâ cöng ty àêìu tiïn cuãa Viïåt Nam coá àêìy àuã caác chûác nùng vïì phên phöëi vaâ xuêët baãn. Hoå cuäng chêëp nhêån traã tiïìn ngay khi kyá kïët– möåt xu hûúáng coá thïí seä súám trúã nïn phöí biïën taåi caác thûúng hiïåu bùng àôa quöëc tïë.

Nghïì Tay Traái Lï Anh Tuêën vaâ Trêìn Nam Thùæng quaãn lyá Polygon, möåt sên khêëu biïíu diïîn doâng nhaåc ngêìm, khöng thuöåc nhaåc phöí biïën thõ trûúâng. Hoå cuäng vûâa laâ nhaåc syä, laåi vûâa kinh doanh. Hoå miïu taã àùåc tñnh cuãa viïåc laâm nghïì tay traái nhû möåt àiïìu têët yïëu àöëi vúái phêìn lúán nhûäng nghïå syä sùæp vaâ àang phaát triïín cuãa Viïåt Nam. "Rêët hiïëm khi möåt nghïå syä hay möåt ban nhaåc Viïåt Nam chó dûåa vaâo êm nhaåc maâ coá thu nhêåp àuã lúán àïí khöng phaãi laâm möåt cöng viïåc khaác," Thùæng giaãi thñch. "Ðùåc biïåt laâ àöëi vúái nhaåc rock – töi khöng thïí kïí ra möåt tïn tuöíi lúán naâo maâ khöng phaãi laâm möåt nghïì tay traái. Töi nghô rùçng sên khêëu laâ núi duy nhêët hoå coá thïí kiïëm tiïìn tûâ êm nhaåc, khöng phaãi tûâ viïåc phaát haânh bùng àôa." Phêìn lúán trúã ngaåi àöëi vúái thu nhêåp tûâ êm nhaåc cuãa nghïå syä Viïåt Nam laâ do viïåc traân lan vi phaåm quyïìn taác giaã. Trong caái thõ trûúâng traân ngêåp nhûäng nöåi dung vi phaåm taác quyïìn naây, caác ngaânh chûác nùng àaä cöë gùæng haån chïë bùçng caách ban haânh caác con tem baãn quyïìn

thïí hiïån nguöìn göëc cuãa bùng àôa. Böå Vùn Hoáa, Thïí Thao vaâ Thöng Tin àaä ban haânh tem cho nïìn cöng nghiïåp êm nhaåc tûâ 10 nùm nay, nhûng rêët nhiïìu caá nhên cöë gùæng thûåc hiïån hïå thöëng naây nhêån xeát rùçng noá dêîn àïën viïåc chêåm tiïën trònh cuãa caác khêu saãn xuêët vaâ phên phöëi êm nhaåc, nhêët laâ khi möåt àôa nhaåc àûúåc tung ra vaâ khöng coá àuã lö àôa múái àïí quay voâng cho kõp vúái nhu cêìu. Caác nghïå syä cuäng coá thïí bõ löî tûâ viïåc thu êm nïëu hoå khöng baán àuã àôa àïí buâ laåi cho giaá thaânh chi phñ cuãa nhûäng con tem. Möåt caách khaác laâ coá thïí baán nhûäng baãn nhaåc qua viïåc download qua tin nhùæn. Vúái khoaãng tûâ 1.000 àïën 2.000 àöìng, noá àaä chûáng minh laâ möåt caách hûäu hiïåu àïí caác nghïå syä tïn tuöíi nhû Phaåm Anh Khoa trúã nïn thaânh àaåt – coá nhûäng baãn àaä àûúåc download trïn 1 triïåu lêìn túái caác àiïån thoaåi di àöång, maâ söë lûúång ngaây möåt tùng trïn àêët nûúác naây. Tuy nhiïn, kïí caã úã àêy thò caác website àõa phûúng cuäng àaä tòm ra caác caách cung cêëp nhûäng dõch vuå tûúng tûå túái möåt khöëi lûúång nhûäng chuyïn gia duâng àiïån thoaåi thöng minh àang gia tùng vúái giaá miïîn phñ. Trong khi nïìn êm nhaåc Viïåt Nam vêîn tiïëp tuåc phaát triïín vaâ múã röång, khöng thïí khöng nhùæc àïën traâo lûu nhaåc Haân (K Pop), nhaåc Trung (C-Pop) vaâ nhaåc Nhêåt (J-Pop), vò chuáng àaä quaá phöí biïën trïn thõ trûúâng thûúng maåi êm nhaåc. Tuy nhiïn, sûå khao khaát vaâ cúãi múã chêëp nhêån àûa nhûäng aãnh hûúãng cuãa êm nhaåc nûúác ngoaâi vaâo chñnh êm nhaåc cuãa mònh cuãa caác nghïå syä Viïåt Nam heá löå ra möåt chên trúâi múái giaâu tiïìm nùng vaâ söi àöång trong tûúng lai. Khöng phaãi chó àöëi vúái nhûäng ngûúâi yïu nhaåc, maâ caã àöëi vúái nhûäng ngûúâi coá khaát voång trúã thaânh ngöi sao nhaåc pop cuäng coá thïí biïën nhûäng giêëc mú àoá thaânh hiïån thûåc khaã thi.

Xin gûãi lúâi caãm ún túái: Brenden Arnold Cream

Khûúng Vùn Cûúâng Yan TV

Lï Anh Tuêën vaâ Trêìn Nam Thùæng Polygon, Haâ Nöåi

David Payne Hanoi Ink

Nguyïîn Ðûác Tuá iCreative Studio

The Word September 2011 | 101

Ngheä Syõ Troø Chuyeän Uyïn Ly: Anh Ngoåc Ðaåi, anh àaä coá nhiïìu nùm laâm nghïì röìi, anh nghô sao vïì võ trñ êm nhaåc cuãa mònh trong möëi tûúng quan vúái hïå thöëng?

Ngoåc Ðaåi: Töi cho rùçng chuáng ta chûa coá

Con àûúâng êm nhaåc underground hay coân goåi laâ êm nhaåc thïí nghiïåm, tûå phaát triïín theo àûúâng löëi riïng, theo súã thñch, cuãa caác nghïå syä Viïåt Nam cuäng gùåp khöng ñt trúã ngaåi vaâ chöng gai. Nhaâ baáo Uyïn Ly àaä coá buöíi troâ chuyïån vúái böën nghïå syä hoaåt àöång trong thïí loaåi êm nhaåc naây. AÃnh do Aaron Joel Santos Uyïn Ly: Xin caãm ún caác anh chõ àaä nhêån lúâi tham gia troâ chuyïån vïì hoaåt àöång nhaåc underground úã Viïåt Nam. Coá möåt sûå thêåt laâ caác baån nûúác ngoaâi biïët àïën caác anh chõ chûa nhiïìu, duâ caác anh chõ àaä hoaåt àöång êm nhaåc tûâ lêu vaâ àaä coá nhûäng thaânh tûåu nhêët àõnh. Búãi vêåy chuáng töi muöën hoãi vò sao caác anh chõ laåi chûa àûúåc biïët àïën? Chuáng töi cuäng muöën biïët hiïån nay cöng viïåc cuãa caác anh chõ nhû thïë naâo, coá gùåp khoá khùn gò vaâ coá caách naâo àïí hai bïn tham gia nhiïìu hoaåt àöång cuãa nhau hún?

Vuä Nhêåt Tên: Ðuáng laâ rêët khoá vò ngön ngûä khaác nhau, löëi chúi nhaåc cuäng khaác nhau.

Phêìn lúán nghïå syä underground Viïåt Nam khöng noái àûúåc tiïëng Anh. Ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi laåi khöng thïí biïët tiïëng Viïåt. Ðõa àiïím gùåp gúä laåi rêët ñt, chó coá Hanoi Rock City úã Haâ Nöåi laâ tuå àiïím lúán nhêët cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi chúi underground taåi Haâ Nöåi.

Kim Ngoåc: Chuáng töi àûúåc àaâo taåo vaâ phaát triïín trong khung caãnh haân lêm nhûng laåi gia nhêåp giúái underground vò hiïån nay caác hoaåt àöång êm nhaåc àûúng àaåi, nhaåc thïí nghiïåm khöng hïì àûúåc baão trúå nhû úã Chêu Êu. Trong caác nhaâ haát úã Chêu Êu, hoå chia thúâi gian biïíu diïîn khoaãng 80% cho êm nhaåc

truyïìn thöëng, 20% coân laåi chia cho nhaåc àûúng àaåi àïí höî trúå cho nghïå syä treã vaâ giúái thiïåu àïën khaán giaã nhûäng àiïìu múái. Trong khi àoá úã Viïåt Nam khöng hïì coá nhûäng chñnh saách tûúng tûå daânh cho nghïå syä treã. Caác hïå thöëng taâi trúå nghïå thuêåt cuäng khöng maånh vaâ àûúåc höî trúå thöng qua chñnh saách nhû úã Myä hay Chêu Êu. ÚÃ Viïåt Nam cuäng coá taâi trúå àêëy nhûng so vúái Myä thò àuáng laâ nhû möåt chuöåt möåt voi. Lõch biïíu diïîn cuãa caác nhaâ haát trong nûúác thò laåi khöng coá chöî cho chuáng töi vò hoå phuåc vuå möåt muåc tiïu khaác. Ngûúâi nghïå syä phaãi tûå vêån àöång taâi chñnh àïí hoaåt àöång vaâ àiïìu àoá cuäng coá nghôa laâ ñt ngûúâi biïët àïën.

thaái àöå àuáng búãi cú chïë cuãa chuáng ta 50 nùm nay vêîn vêåy. Hoaåt àöång caá thïí, àöåc lêåp trong xaä höåi chûa vùn minh vaâ cuäng manh muán. Cho àïën giúâ naây, khaã nùng cêåp nhêåt êm nhaåc vaâ trònh àöå cuãa giúái nghïå syä vêîn laâ quaá thêëp, chûá chûa noái àïën viïåc àûáng ra töí chûác möåt chûúng trònh. Nïëu nhû ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi muöën tòm hiïíu vïì sinh hoaåt nghïå thuêåt thò phaãi coá ngûúâi àûáng ra giuáp àúä hoå. Phña chuáng töi chó hoaåt àöång nghïå thuêåt thuêìn tuáy maâ thöi, khöng biïët laâm thïë naâo àïí töí chûác vaâ kïët nöëi. Coá thïí noái laâ nghïå syä chuáng töi thuå àöång. Chuáng töi cuäng gùåp khoá khùn úã chöî khöng coá nhaâ saãn xuêët cho mònh. Nïëu chó laâ sûå cöë gùæng cuãa möåt caá nhên thò àoá laâ àiïìu quaá sûác vúái chuáng töi. Khöng thïí naâo tòm àûúåc möåt nhoám ngûúâi vúái ekip hoaåt àöång àöìng böå, nhû möåt nhaåc viïån, möåt nhoám töí chûác chuyïn nghiïåp, hay möåt caá nhên cuäng àûúåc... àïí laâm êm nhaåc. Vaâ chuáng töi caâng laâm nhiïìu caâng khoá khùn nhiïìu. Nhûng àûúng nhiïn chuáng töi àaä tûå choån cho mònh con àûúâng ài nhû vêåy vaâ muöën chúi nhaåc thïí nghiïåm thò phaãi chêëp nhêån khoá khùn. Ðaåi-Lêm-Linh lêìn thûá nhêët diïîn taåi Nhaâ haát Lúán do chñnh töi àûáng ra töí chûác àaä àûúåc sûå uãng höå cuãa nhiïìu khaán giaã nûúác ngoaâi. Nïëu nhû töi coá thïí töí chûác hai nùm möåt lêìn thò töët quaá. Nhûng àiïìu kiïån cuãa töi khöng cho pheáp búãi töi phaãi kïët húåp vúái daân nhaåc, ca syä, phaãi têåp luyïån trong möåt thúâi gian daâi, khöng thïí hoaåt àöång àöåc lêåp nhû Ngoåc vaâ Tên. Töi cuäng mong coá nhaâ taâi trúå cho caác hoaåt àöång cuãa mònh. Coá thúâi àiïím töi àaä coá söë tiïìn taâi trúå lïn àïën 80.000 USD nhûng àiïìu àoá bêy giúâ khöng coân nûäa.

Uyïn Ly: Viïåt Nam àaä trúã thaânh nûúác coá thu nhêåp trung bònh, seä khoá àïí nhêån àûúåc caác khoaãn taâi trúå cho nûúác ngheâo nhû trûúác àêy. Caác trung têm vùn hoáa trûúác kia vêîn höî trúå chuáng ta thò giúâ àêy àang cùæt giaãm ngên saách. Vêåy thò phaãi laâm thïë naâo khi khöng coân taâi trúå?

Nhên àêy töi muöën hoãi Bush Lam, ngûúâi treã nhêët trong söë chuáng ta. Nhoám cuãa baån hoaåt àöång khöng coá taâi trúå phaãi khöng? Bush: Khöng ai biïët mònh laâ ai vaâ khöng ai giuáp mònh thò mònh phaãi tûå vûún ra vúái nùng lûåc cuãa mònh thöi. Theo em viïåc chúi nhaåc thaânh cöng hay khöng phuå thuöåc vaâo thaái àöå, muåc àñch cuãa mònh: kiïëm tiïìn, nöíi tiïëng hay chúi nhaåc cho chñnh mònh? Em nghô àûúåc chúi nhaåc cuãa mònh, cho mònh laâ sûúáng röìi. May laâ mêëy àûáa boån em àïìu coá cöng viïåc riïng nïn thûúâng duâng tiïìn kiïëm àûúåc àïí duy trò viïåc chúi nhaåc. Nïëu muöën chúi nhaåc cuãa mònh thò buöåc phaãi tûå kiïëm tiïìn nuöi noá thöi. Em nghô laâ mònh cuäng nïn boã yá nghô taâi trúå vaâi chuåc ngaân àö ài. Em coân ñt tuöíi nïn laâm caái nhoã. Tûå mònh laâm nhûäng chûúng trònh nhoã trûúác röìi tûâ àoá seä ra nhûäng caái lúán. Hai, ba chûúng trònh àêìu tiïn khaán giaã chó coá vaâi ba chuåc ngûúâi, phên nûãa laâ baån beâ. Röìi sau àoá nhiïìu dêìn lïn. So vúái möåt nùm rûúäi trûúác thò tuåi em àaä lúán hún rêët nhiïìu. Khoaãng baãy, taám thaáng trúã laåi àêy, thêåt may laâ show naâo cuäng àêìy chêåt khaán giaã. Möåt söë khaán giaã nûúác ngoaâi cuãa tuåi em noái rùçng hoå àïën vúái tuåi em vò nhòn thêëy sûå thuêìn khiïët, sûå àam mï, vò thêëy tuåi em khaác biïåt. Nïn tuåi em lêëy àoá laâm niïìm àöång viïn cho mònh.

Vuä Nhêåt Tên: Hoaåt àöång underground tûå töí chûác tûå chúi vaâ tûå àem tiïìn cuãa mònh àïí duy trò thò cöng nhêån àoá laâ möåt hûúáng ài töët, nhûng töi àaä traãi qua thúâi àoá lêu röìi, tûâ 15 nùm trûúác. Giúâ thò töi khöng thïí tiïëp tuåc laâm àiïìu àoá nûäa.

Ngoåc Ðaåi: Noái thïm möåt àiïìu nûäa, töi thò khöng thïí tûå laâm nhû Bush Lam nûäa búãi võ trñ cuãa chuáng töi hiïån nay buöåc chuáng töi phaãi coá nhûäng dûå aán êm nhaåc lúán thûúâng niïn nhû nhûäng ngûúâi laâm nhaåc chuyïn nghiïåp khaác. Nhûng nhû vêåy thò cêìn àêìu tû rêët nhiïìu vaâ vúái àiïìu kiïån cuãa chuáng töi laåi khoá coá thïí thûåc hiïån. Coân laåi thò töi vêîn mong muöën khaán giaã àïën vúái mònh, chùèng ngûúâi nghïå syä naâo khöng mong muöën àiïìu àoá. Vuä Nhêåt Tên: Chuáng töi àaä tûâng töí chûác festival nhaåc àiïån tûã quöëc tïë. Khi DJ chúi thò

khaán giaã trong àoá coá nhiïìu baån nûúác ngoaâi àïën nghe rêët àöng, nhûng khi chuáng töi bùæt àêìu chúi nhaåc cuãa mònh thò hoå boã ài. Chuáng töi Laâm vaâ bõ Löî. Coá leä tûâ nùm sau chuáng töi cuäng khöng tiïëp tuåc nûäa.

Uyïn Ly: Chuáng ta vûâa nghe nhûäng khoá khùn maâ caác anh chõ gùåp phaãi, quay trúã laåi cêu chuyïån cuãa Bush, sau naây baån coá àõnh laâm nhûäng dûå aán lúán khöng? Nïëu gùåp khoá khùn baån seä giaãi quyïët thïë naâo?

Bush Lam: Xa vúâi quaá, töi chûa daám nghô àïën maâ cuäng khöng nghô àïën. ÚÃ Viïåt Nam àaä coá nhiïìu chûúng trònh to röìi àêëy chûá. Chûúng trònh nhoã maâ chêët lûúång vaâ choån loåc thò múái ñt. Nïn chuáng töi vêîn nhû vêåy thöi.

Kim Ngoåc: Ðuáng laâ cêu chuyïån cuãa Bush laâm töi caãm thêëy xêëu höí. Xêëu höí vúái loâng mònh vò töi khöng àam mï àûúåc nhû nhûäng ngûúâi treã nhû Bush Lam, khöng coân àam mï nhû chñnh töi nhûäng ngaây trûúác àïí tiïëp tuåc hoaåt àöång möåt caách vö tû. Nhûng töi khöng thïí vûúåt qua nöîi xêëu höí àoá àïí trúã laåi vö tû nûäa, nhû anh Tên noái laâ "traãi qua thúâi àoá lêu röìi". Nghïå syä hoaåt àöång êm nhaåc baãn nùng vaâ hoå toám laåi àïìu thuå àöång trûúác cuöåc söëng. Boã qua cêu chuyïån vïì khaán giaã, thõ hiïëu... Chuáng ta cêìn giûä niïìm say mï cuãa mònh àïí chúi nhaåc úã bêët cûá àêu duâ coá chuyïån gò ài nûäa. Viïåc tûå àûáng ra töí chûác laâ möåt gúåi yá cho rêët nhiïìu nghïå syä: tûå laâm tûå töí chûác, duâ úã thúâi àiïím naâo. Vaâ nghïå syä cuäng khöng thïí thuå àöång quaá, phaãi tûå chuã vaâ maånh meä hún, tûå tòm khaán giaã cho mònh, tûå töí chûác hoaåt àöång êm nhaåc cuãa mònh trûúác hïët laâ àïí duy trò tònh yïu êm nhaåc cuãa baãn thên. Ngoåc Ðaåi: Ðoá cuäng laâ dûå àõnh cuãa töi. Sùæp túái töi múã möåt quaán cafeá, thûåc ra töi cuäng chó muöën coá möåt chiïëc piano thêåt hay vaâ coá thïm hai nghïå syä cuâng ngêîu hûáng chúi nhaåc vúái mònh. Nhûng töi àang gùåp rùæc röëi vò chuáng töi khöng múã quaán úã àõa àiïím àoá àûúåc nûäa.

Uyïn Ly: Vêåy anh seä tòm àõa àiïím khaác àïí múã quaán chûá? Ðöåc giaã cuãa The Word sùæp coá cú höåi nghe anh chúi nhaåc thûúâng xuyïn röìi phaãi khöng? Mong anh àûâng boã cuöåc. Vaâ thûa caác nghïå syä, rêët caãm ún caác anh chõ àaä chia seã thêåt cúãi múã trong buöíi troâ chuyïån ngaây höm nay.

ho chi minh city the vertical challenge

The Vertical

CHALLENGE WHAT DOES HO CHI MINH CITY’S TALLEST BUILDING HAVE TO OFFER? US$5,000 AND A PANORAMIC VIEW OF THE CITY. GISELLE WHITEAKER FINDS OUT MORE

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THE BITEXCO FINANCIAL TOWER HAS opened its doors, with sixteen of the fastest elevators in Asia ready to whisk you up to the Saigon Skydeck on the 49th floor. Alternatively you could take the 1,002 steps up there. No one would really want to do that though, right? Wrong. Vertical running may be a relatively new sport, but it’s catching on fast and in October the Bitexco Financial Tower is set to host Vietnam’s first vertical race. Vertical racing started in the 1970s and has developed a following that has pushed it into the limelight as an organised sport with a Vertical World Circuit that incorporates some of the world’s tallest buildings. In the highest towers on the planet, top international competitors mingle with amateur athletes as all strive to pound up the stairs in a matter of minutes and gaze out over the best views of the cities. The 2011 Vertical World Circuit spans from February to December, starting with the Empire State Building (381m), before tearing through the Messeturm (105m) in Basel, Switzerland and Tower 42 (199m) in London. It peaks at the Taipei 101 Building (448m) offering some respite at the lowly Park Inn Hotel (150m) in Berlin. The Palazzo Lombardia (161m) in Milan adds a few stairs, while it’s more of a leap to the Swissotel The Stamford (226m) in Singapore. The final pinnacle is The Nestle Tower in Sao Paolo

(145m). Each race varies between 542 and 1,576 steps. In addition to the nine circuit races in 2011, there are four trial races, and this is where the Bitexco Financial Tower comes in. On Oct. 30, runners will be flagged off in waves of between 10 to 15 people to ascend the heights. While it may not be the easiest way to see the most spectacular view of the city, it could be the most rewarding, with a cash prize of US$5,000 and further sponsored awards for the top ranking runners. Sporting Republic (www.sportingrepublic. com), the organisers of the Vietnam run, are hoping for up to 500 runners to don their trainers and feel the burn, including both amateurs and elite athletes, several of whom are already confirmed to participate. Reigning women's Vertical World Champion Melissa Moon from New Zealand has already signed up and started her training regime. “Racing up these spectacular buildings captures people’s imagination,” she comments, “and I feel privileged to be part of this World Circuit and especially the first race in Vietnam. It will certainly put the city and the Bitexco Financial Tower on the world map.” This was the aim for Sporting Republic. “As an organisation, one of our main objectives is to produce high profile races in Vietnam — to promote Vietnam as a

Melissa Moon's

TRAINING RECOMMENDATIONS — Establish E a decent aerob aerobic base during the first six to eight weeks of training by running up to four times a week for 40 to 75 minutes at a stretch. At six weeks adaption starts to take place where the lungs, heart, leg muscles, joints and fuel systems become more efficient and stronger — Add in some gym work, concentrating on strength/endurance

of the leg muscles, particularly the thighs and calves. Use medium weights and higher repetitions of 12 to 15. Try to do three sets — Throw in some core strength work on your stomach — Six weeks before the race start stair training. Find a modestly tall building, run up the stairs, catch the lift back down and repeat three to five times

leading destination for competitive sports, tourism and business,” explains David Shin, the company’s director. “The Bitexco Vertical Run being a part of the Vertical World Circuit has naturally attracted significant attention overseas.”

Come One, Come All Here’s where you come in. The race is open to everyone. Well, almost everyone. There is a minimum age of 12 years. While David recommends participants to engage in training specifically related to stair running, there is no cut-off time for the event. The fastest athletes will sprint to the top in under 20 minutes (Melissa Moon made it to the top of the Empire State Building in 13 minutes and 13 seconds), but there is nothing to stop an amateur from walking the entire course, huffing and puffing, over several hours if required. While serious runners will no doubt develop an equally serious training routine, Melissa suggests there are some easy ways to start working towards stair fitness. “Once a day take the stairs instead of the lift if you work or live in a tall building. Try and walk two stairs at a time and use the hand rails to save energy.” When you think about it, stair running is a perfect fitness activity for Ho Chi Minh City. As David explains, “Stair running is a simple exercise, has amazing effects on your body and is accessible to everyone as all you need is a flight of stairs.” Given the lack of road running opportunities in the heavily trafficked heart of the city, stair running may be the answer. So what are you waiting for? It’s US$12 to register and you have 12 weeks to train. That should just about do it. As parting words of encouragement, Melissa says, “It is a challenging sport but the harder the challenge the greater the satisfaction of achieving the goal. And the view at the top is well worth it!” To register or find out more info visit www. vietnamrun.com.

The TTh he Word he Word Wo rd SSe September eptem ptem pt mber ber 2011 be 201 20 011 11 | 10 1105 05

ho chi minh city

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE

Ho Chi Minh City Listings BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 000 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 135 RESTAURANT - FRENCH 135 RESTAURANT - INDIAN 135 RESTAURANT - INTERNATIONAL 136

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

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RESTAURANT - ITALIAN 136 RESTAURANT - SOUTHEAST ASIAN 136 RESTAURANT - VIETNAMESE 139 RESOBARS 140

from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen. +

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LUSH

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

VASCO’S

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID TO TOP

MID-RANGE

KABIN

GANESH

SZECHUAN / CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID TO TOP TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 29B Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Decidedly intimate, this whitewashed, open-kitchened, 22-seater restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list – 75 at present count – and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bob Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

MID-RANGE AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com 7.30am to 11pm daily Famed for its Australian-style burgers served up with pickled beetroot and fried egg, the two-storey, bistro-style Bernie’s is much more than a burger joint. Boasting comfort food-style mains ranging from steaks, grills and pizzas through to pasta, sandwiches, salads and panini, this venue also has a Vietnamese food menu. Live music enters proceedings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and space is also available for private functions.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

WARDA MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with

eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

MID TO TOP FLOW SAIGON CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday. 10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal. Also puts on events and film screenings.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

PASHA

rary international–style grill and modern European fare with sushi and sashimi.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN MID-RANGE PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 8181 www.pendolasco-restaurantvietnam.com 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful,

rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

TOP-END SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN / SASHIMI 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and sushi bar, as wells as a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city makes up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contempo-

The Word September 2011 | 107

ho chi minh city LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

VIET CHAY BUDDHIST VEGETARIAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 7am to 9.30pm If you’re into Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine and aren’t put off by faux meat, the offerings at Viet Chay are among the best in town. Set in the grounds of the city’s largest pagoda, the joint, hygienic indoor, outdoor space is the setting for dishes like tuna made out of bean curd and pork ribs constructed out of tofu. Sounds odd but tastes great and prices are cheap, too.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

108 | The Word September 2011

HOA TUC

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

AMERICAN / LIVE MUSIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn 11am to midnight The rock memorabilia, cowboy-like, rockcentred American food menu and branded décor at the Saigon version of this international branded café provide for one of the city’s few, medium capacity downtown music venues. The nightly live music is accompanied by a pricey (for Saigon) food menu that includes burgers, hickorysmoked BBQ ribs, fajitas, sandwiches and salads. Puts on regular events – check their website for details.

LUONG SON

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALIBI INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CEPAGE LOUNGE BAR / INTERNATIONAL Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz 8am to 12pm. Sunday 5pm to 12pm When the plush but chic Cepage opened its doors, its décor and concept caused a stir thanks to its lounge-style seating, eye-catching subtly lit bar area, upstairs restaurant and glass-fronted wine cellar. Then there was the international, Japanese-influenced food menu, put together by German Andreas Ertle, one of the city’s best chefs. More than three years on this comfortable but well-priced restobar still hits the spot, and also boasts one of the most creative cocktail lists in town. Check out their black box lunchtime deal.

2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded

reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

the final say my father and me

SANDALS

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 93 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 5198 www.sailingclubvietnam.com 7am to 12am Creative, international-influenced Mediterranean cuisine is the focus at this airy, Buddha-inspired, sandalwood coloured restobar that is part of the Sailing Club chain in Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With a downstairs bar area, two floors of dining space and an upstairs terrace-cum-lounge bar, Sandals provides a pleasant, more laid back alternative to the standard nightlife and dining scene in downtown Saigon. Has a range of specials and happy hours on offer.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 info@saigongourmetgroup 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, a laid back atmosphere and a conversation-friendly bar area mix with a dining space out back and international fusion cuisine to make this one of downtown’s go-to destinations. Running the gamut from sake ‘n’ harissa marinated cod through to torchon of lamb, chicken souvlaki, a lemon pepper salmon salad, a chimichurri burger and a range of enticing desserts, the cuisine here is top-notch and the presentation excellent.

PHOTO BY MATTHEW BENNETT

MID-RANGE

My Father AND ME My father waits for me on his motorbike at the gate. The sky is rosy and the streets are already bustling with the morning rush hour. He’s taking me to school... He makes sure my helmet fits snugly and my schoolbag is secured before revving his Honda workhorse and taking off to merge with a new day. Our senses are assaulted by the sounds, sights and smells of post-dawn Hanoi. I see other children on the backs of their fathers’ motorbikes, drinking chocolate milk and eating sausages on sticks, their Superman satchels like blue and red tortoise shells suspended from their shoulders. I wave. They giggle and wave back. My father never takes unnecessary risks when I’m his passenger. He drives sedately and carefully, only sometimes speeding up to overtake a cellphone-toting slowcoach, or racing to beat a green light before it blinks into orange. If it’s safe. I feel as though we are all one — him, the motorbike and me. We are a horse-like animal with two wheels and four legs. Our weight shifts in perfect synchrony as we turn a corner. Right… Left… Centre again. Cars hoot us out of the way from the fast lane, bicycles with conical hats slow us down in the slow lane. Crossing pedestrians offer some unpredictability, and a lorry thunders onwards from behind. Some racing teenage motorcyclists sandwich us for a heart-stopping second and then spit us out in their wake. I take a deep, relieved breath and hear the sound of children at play in the schoolyard we are approaching. My father coughs, lodging decades of city smog that is dying to escape from his lungs. My father has been doing this for many years, rain or 40-degree shine, never missing a day. It’s as though he were born with his hands on the controls. With the road grit of only one accident embedded in his skin, he accepts his daily task with pragmatism — his children must be educated. The first heavy beads of rain fall. “Mua,” he says, and pulls over. We don our raincoats amid others doing the same. As usual, in my childlike, clumsy way, I get lost in the humid latex confines of the garment, and emerge red-faced and gasping, all back-to-front. He laughs at me, shaking his head indulgently, and helps me

110 | The Word September 2011

with it. He’s a patient father. We climb on again, legs astride our Honda horse’s belly. Of course the unspoken rules of the road here dictate that drivers only have to worry about what’s happening in front of them. You are not responsible for the mayhem that results behind you as you pull out widely, and without looking, from a side alley into the flow of the traffic. Sadly around 30 people get killed, and dozens more are injured every day on Vietnam’s road arteries. All things considered, however, I’m sometimes surprised that these numbers are not higher. To the uninitiated, it’s vehicular chaos. Like a shoal of fish, we join the surge gently swerving around a bus, which is like a noxious gas-belching whale, as it almost stops, spilling passengers from its gills. I’d say that my father is the master of the Hanoi Traffic Stare. When another motorist really pushes the boundaries, like by weaving dangerously or sailing through a red light, my father pulls up next to them, and fixes them with a disapproving stare that could win an Oscar. The said transgressor squirms uncomfortably on their seat and distantly fixes their gaze on the seconds counting down to the ‘go’ signal. The rain stops as quickly as it began and the sun blazes down. We pass the school as the bell rings for lessons to commence, and stop to take our raingear off. At the next traffic light, my father parks our Honda horse 50 metres from the intersection, under the shade of a giant jacaranda tree. He’s hugely concerned that my skin remains the milky white of the frangipanis we are going to pass on our way back home again this afternoon. I, on the other hand, would be glad for some colour, but am cognizant of his consideration. After he has delivered me safely to school, his day will be flexible and he is free to seek work, or not. In fact my father has the ultimate gift of being able to take a restful noontime snooze perched precariously on the saddle of the Honda, head resting lightly on the rim of the rearview mirror, and I know

that is how I shall find him when my classes are done. He will also just have bought me a refreshing bag of mia da — freshly squeezed sugar cane with deliciously cool, bobbing blocks of ice. He will offer it to me with a mirthful laugh. I won’t know what’s so amusing, but I will laugh at his laughter. My education institution is ahead now and I start collecting my thoughts and my things. I dismount as early-comers wander past me. ‘Good morning teacher!” they say cheerfully. I push a roll of banknotes into my Vietnamese xe om father’s sun-wrinkled hand, knowing he only asks local prices of me. In my tone-deficient Vietnamese, his nonexistent English, and body language that we both innately understand, we agree on a pickup time. I know he is off to collect another teacher now and ferry her to her respective school. I am, however, not envious of his other sons and daughters, for he sustains each of our existences here responsibly, fairly, and equally. “Hen gap lai” — see you later — we greet each other affectionately, as I watch him coax the Honda horse back across the river of traffic. — Words by Ursula Bradshaw / Photo by Matthew Bennett

FOOTNOTE: I am, forgive me, not brave enough to traverse the streets of the capital upon a motorbike of my own and therefore enjoy the services of a regular xe om driver. This might smack of the colonial, but I view it as a soundly practical decision, firstly in terms of providing a steady income which much aids my trusty traffic companion in budgeting for his family’s expenses; and secondly, keeping the safety of the three million other motorists in the city in mind (I admit to being most unsteady on any two-wheeler). This vignette is dedicated to Nguyen Van Vu, 54, from Hung Yen Province and all the other wonderful liftgivers like him, without whom, living in Hanoi would be untenable.

“When another motorist really pushes the boundaries, like by weaving dangerously or sailing through a red light, my father pulls up next to them, and fixes them with a disapproving stare that could win an Oscar”

The Word September 2011 | 111

the final say DO YOU OWN A PHOTOG RA WOULD L PH THAT OO HERE? E K GOOD MAIL EDITOR@ IT TO WORD HANOI.C OM

MATT LAW

Egg in the face, or at least something very creamy. At the opening of Tay Tap

CROSSWORDS: LONGITUDE & LATITUDE ACROSS

1. KENYA

49. Negatively charged atom

6. Wanna-____ (inferior copycats)

8. Huge computer company

50. AUSTRALIA

11. Automobile

53. Long-running NBC comedy show, for short

7. “Stupid ____ stupid does” (“Forrest Gump” line): 2wds.

14. Guarantees 15. Mediterranean, for one 16. ____-Wan Kenobi 17. ARGENTINA: 2wds. 19. ____-Man (1980’s arcade game) 20. Numbered highway: Abbr 21. “Shoo!” 22. “Phooey!” 23. Cable station that shows videos 26. FINLAND 28. Tried to win the affection of 30. “Gone with the Wind” star Vivien

54. LATVIA

57. Play a role

11. DENMARK

22. Elevated

67. Glue anew

23. Bon ____ (witty remark) 24. 1982 movie in which Dustin Hoffman dresses as a woman 25. Wedding dress designer ____ Wang

DOWN

27. Writes one’s name in a attendance log: 2wds.

38. ESTONIA

1. State north of Kansas: Abbr.

28. NEW ZEALAND

41. Soldiers

2. “Are you some kind of ____ ?”: 2wds.

29. ____ Pickles (youngest of the Rugrats)

34. Country whose capital is Accra 37. “Electric” fish

42. United Kingdom division whose capital is Cardiff 44. BELGIUM 46. 16,000-line epic poem describing the Trojan War

3. "It's all clear now": 2wds 4. Take part in a marathon 5. Rio de ____ (African region also known as Western Sahara)

112 | The Word September 2011

34 39

44 47

27 30

38 43

46 50

45 49

52 55

53 56

18. German for “I”

70. COSTA RICA: 2wds.

31. SOUTH AFRICA

66. Was in command of

69. Physicians, for short

68. A dozen minus two

28 31

13. Talk-show host Lake

10. Pas’ partners

12. Taken ____ (surprised)

9. Firefly or ladybug, for example

61. MALAYSIA: 2wds.

8. Country whose capital is Jerusalem

60. “Guinness Book of Records” suffix

55. Math class taken after algebra, often: Abbr

65. ____-mo replay

Answers on page 2

31. Church bench 32. “The Crying Game” star Stephen 33. Country whose capital is Tirane: Abbr.

35. Nothing

51. Supermarket wallkway

36. Donkey

52. It alerts you when “you’ve got mail”

39. Tax-deferred savings plan, for short

56. The red planet

40. Catholic schoolteachers, often

57. Lhasa ____ (small terrier)

43. Italian island that was the site of Napoleon’s first exile

58. Slashes

45. Do, re, mi, fa, ____, la, ti, do

61. Letters between J and N

47. Quarreled

62. Meadow

48. Really fears

63. “WWE SmackDown!” broadcaster

50. Big toothpaste brand

64. Sgt. ____ (militany rank)

59. Maple, magnolia or mahogany

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