The Word Ha Noi November 2011 by Word Vietnam

November 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

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Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 / Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 / Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn-nxbld@vnn.vn Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: The Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Contents

November 2011

Regulars

Features

006 The Talk Word on the street

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản CN Cty CP TM-DV-QC-Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P. PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

012 Our Man Hanoi, bia and me

Văn phòng đại Diện Tại Hà Nội: Ngõ 93, Nhà 2C, Lý Nam Đế, Hoàn Kiếm ĐT: +84 4 3747 5589 / Fax: +84 4 3747 5598 Email: info@wordhanoi.com Website: www.wordhanoi.com

024 Overscene Hanoi happenings 032 Many Faces The last blacksmith

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm The Word (Ho Chi Minh City và Ha Noi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật sở hữu trí tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam. In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71-73-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q.1, TP. HCM www.tranphuprint.com

050 Destination Paris: City of love 056 Fashion Sula Style in Hanoi

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161-2011/CXB/155-07/LĐ ngày 02/03/2011 Quyết định xuất bản số 361 QĐCN-LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 03/10/2011 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2011.

063 Street snacker Fine fish noodles

Duong Vy Bao, General Director bao@wordhanoi.com bao@wordhcmc.com

David Stout, Deputy Editor david.stout@wordhanoi.com

062

028 Q&A Getting to know the director

Dominic Blewett, Staff Photographer dominic@wordhanoi.com Hoa Le, Staff Writer hoale@wordhanoi.com

030 Laughing Fit Get healthy with a giggle

Kaitlin Rees, Staff Writer kaitlin@wordhanoi.com Paolo Maling, Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

050

034 A Green Breakthrough? Vietnam and the environment

Nguyen Tan Loc, Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com Phi Nguyen Thuy Linh, Intern linh@wordhanoi.com Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Photo Intern

Administration Le Dang Phuong Trang, Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

106 The Final Say Letting the wealth hang out

034

Aaron Joel Santos, Photo Editor aaron@wordhanoi.com

Nick Ross, Chief Editor and Deputy Director editor@wordhanoi.com

056

062 Mystery Diner Tacos and beer at Arriba

The editorial and design of THE WORD HA NOI is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Editorial Ian Paynton, Deputy Chief Editor ian@wordhanoi.com

032

030

046 Go!Go!Japan! CAMA’s latest festival installment

063

Ho chi minh city 100 New on the Scene A new wave of innovative restaurants are opening up their doors to satisfy your hunger

Advertising Chau Giang, Sales & Office Manager giang@wordhanoi.com Huynh Quang Hau, Advert Designer artwork@wordhcmc.com Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien, Advert Designer hien@wordhcmc.com Distribution & Subscriptions hai@wordhanoi.com For advertising enquiries please call Giang on +84 93464 0668 or Bao on +84 902 361561 The Word would like to thank Douglas Pyper, Debbie Clare, Tuan Nguyen, Tara Seshan, Shahir Lubin, Victoria Boggiano, Bookworm and bacon sandwiches for their contribution to this issue

The Word Ha Noi is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners.

2 | The Word November 2011

046 100 The Word November 2011 | 3

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tweets of the month MisterMattLaw @WordVietnam I always used to run it [Movember] from Le PUB, am planning on growing a big bushy ginger tinged one 25 Oct

THE PRELUDE November 2011

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Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực The City in Your Hands

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao ao Động

Front Cover Design by The Word - DH Advertising

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TO BE BRUTALLY HONEST, WE at The Word take The Earth and the environment for granted. We may occasionally unplug our laptop overnight or decline the plastic bag to carry cups of ca phe sua da, but as far as “being green” goes, we’re more a darker shade of purple. We use quite a bit of paper and sometimes sleep with the air conditioner on. There, we’ve said it, but are not proud. And while buzzwords like ‘eco’ and ‘green’ are read and heard all over the media, and even attached to everything from cars and washing powder, what do these two prefixes actually mean — especially in a country developing as quickly as Vietnam? Our cover story A Green Breakthrough? is being run in both our publications — The Word Ha Noi and The Word Ho Chi Minh City. And while we

don’t claim to be the experts on such a broad, complicated topic, we felt it was worthwhile to scratch the surface of Vietnam’s environmental issues. From green architecture and alternative power, to climate change and wildlife conservation, we cast an analytical eye on the current environmental state of the country and poll experts as to how green Vietnam is now and may be in the future. As always, we want your feedback and would love to hear about what you do every day that you consider “green”. Morning, night or naptime, send it to editor@wordhanoi. com. And don’t forget to join us for our second birthday celebration at The Summit Lounge on Nov. 11. Find out more in this month’s Big Five.

NathanKitchner The Must Read International is out! Top stories today via @wordvietnam 24 Oct doortomykitchen @david_m_stout @wordvietnam oh thanks so much. Can't afford to miss another issue of The Word Hanoi! 23 Oct playingwithsid @philip_arthur We got highest votes for #hanoitweetup on Nov 11. What is time/venue of @ wordvietnam party, @ianpaynton? 23 Oct mizzpurplerozz heyyyaah friends! :) pls support @WordVietnam C3 #saigonsinglesretweet pls :) thank you! ;p 12 Oct lisaandmatt @cooks81 Check out the article at the back of @WordVietnam (SGN) this month - talks about rose coloured glasses post-Vietnam… so true. 10 Oct TheCartFood RT @WordVietnam: #Hanoi edition ready to download.tinyurl.com/6dfh9zp (includes: yfrog. com/ntb9hqp thanks! #acartfornghitam) 4 Oct

INBOX DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL US AT NICK@WORDHANOI.COM OR IAN@WORDHANOI.COM

GREAT BUT MORE MASSAGE? UNIVERSAL STRESS Your mayhem in the mind article (Sanity in the City – October) hit home. Although the sources of the stress may be completely different, the same mental breakdown from daily life happens to me in Spain. — Jana

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I always look forward to snapping up the next copy of The Word and I am pleased it is written in such an upbeat and positive tone. We are all fully aware of the frustrations living in Vietnam can present. I like to read The Word to find out about new things that are charming and intriguing about the place. I think the publication is of the highest quality, the photography is excellent, and I always look forward to seeing what image you put on the cover. I also like seeing the street style section but would like to see more spa treatment listings and something similar to mystery diner but mystery massage therapy/spa and beauty treatments. Tough job, but I am sure someone in your team would be willing to do it! Keep up the good work. — Alison

The Word November 2011 | 5

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the big

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FIVE Things to watch out for this month (in no particular order)

the big five just in exhibitionist the buzz

Still Smokin?

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A Cig a Minute

A recent wedding at Ho Chi Minh City’s Park Hyatt hotel exemplified how market

6 | The Word November 2011

forces are taking effect. Once a typical five-star in Vietnam where smokers would light up in any space with enough oxygen to burn a match, the property has recently banned cancer sticks from all

"Cities where smokers have simply taken their habit outside such as London and Paris, smell like an ashtray" areas. Frequented by top-end western and Asian tourists and business travellers, it is no surprise that The Hyatt has made this tenacious move. For them, being shunned by potential overseas customers for allowing smoking on their premises now outweighs the pleas of the luckless smoker. Unfortunately, for the wedding it meant a good proportion of the guests were rushing outdoors and spending too much time away from the banquet hall. Not great for the event. But for The Hyatt, it meant a continuation of a policy that reduces complaints and most likely gains them customers.

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For one night only this November, Dengue Fever’s in town. And we don’t mean the tropical disease — no, we mean the Cambodian-American psychadelic-surf-rock powerhouse band celebrating the release of its fifth album with the 2011 Electric Mekong Tour. Showcasing the best of America’s cultural fusion, six-piece Dengue Fever have been wowing audiences around the

world with appearances everywhere from Glastonbury and Roskilde to WOMAD and CAMA. It will be the band’s second visit to Hanoi — the first was at the CAMA Festival 2010 — and is presented by the Embassy of the United States in Hanoi and PEPFAR. Dengue Fever and guests will grace the American Club at 19 Hai Ba Trung on Saturday Nov. 26 from 5pm until 10pm. Tickets will go on the door for VND100,000

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But here in the north of Vietnam, some businesses are worried that a smoking ban would have the opposite effect — one owner of a newly opened restobar told one of our writers that he would love to ban smoking and have a cleaner restaurant, but at this point cannot risk deterring custom. And yet, look around the city and it becomes evident that market forces and the dislike of smoking are starting to come into play. Some cafes and bars now have non-smoking areas — take Puku and Taboo, which, on its opening night, was a non-smoking affair, even with a largely Vietnamese clientele — and there are a few places that are completely smoke free, like the Hanoi Social Club. The new Old Quarter cafe is growing in popularity for a few good reasons but one reason is that chugging on a “grette” indoors is banned — customers turn to the terrace area out back or out on the road to indulge. For most that’s fine, but you can’t please everyone — the twenty-a-day folk steer clear. And while cigarettes remain ridiculously cheap — even the top-end nicotine sticks only cost VND27,000 a packet — and while there are always smoke-friendly options, the smoker, for the time being, will have the last gasp. However, with the market now starting to dictate smoking policy, it will be interesting to see how long this lasts. Even in a nicotine-addicted country like Vietnam.

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Market forces are bringing greater anti-smoking awareness to Vietnam In 2007 when the smoking-inpublic-places ban dusted all that unwanted ash off Europe, many other non-western countries followed suit. Quick off the mark was Singapore and the tourism babe of the region, Thailand. And at the beginning of 2010, Vietnam threw in the towel. But in a country where the population does as it sees fit, without proper enforcement the ban blinked a couple of eyelids, coughed out a bout or two of phlegm and was largely ignored. Speak to the growing hordes of antinicotine fiends and they will tell you how much they despise smoking. Which is why for this budding majority, cities where smokers have simply taken their habit outside such as London and Paris, smell like an ashtray. You can only imagine what they think of Vietnam. One Australian recently spoke to this writer about her daughter’s trip to Europe. After months of olfactory torture, the daughter was delighted to get back to Sydney because, unlike the urban smoke-fest metropolises of Europe, the city smelled nice. Down Under, smoking has become anti-social and is deemed abhorrent — a direction the US went years ago. This sensibility, in its various forms, is finally making its way to Vietnam.

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY US

Who would have thought it? Two years. From pieces on Vietnamese tea and Ha Giang province to matchmaking and guiding you through the city’s markets, The Word Ha Noi team has been busy putting these pages together for 24 months. Come to celebrate with us on the Nov. 11 at the spanking new Sofitel Summit Lounge — invites will go out for attendance up until 10pm. From then it’s an open dance floor. And with the eclectic DJ Doru Toduse flying up from Saigon, there’s sure to be something for everyone. Would be great to put faces to names and finally meet some of our most loyal followers. So Google Calendar it. Now! Haters stay at home. And for those who fancy VIP tickets and some free drinks, email us with the answer to this question: The Word has two magazines — one is in Hanoi — but where is the other? Pretty tough, right? But don’t be shy, because only the first 20 emails received in the inbox of editor@wordhanoi.com with the correct answer will be notified of their VIP invitations

CAMA AT IT AGAIN

A QUICKIE ANYONE?

Early in December, in cooperation with The Japan Foundation, CAMA presents Go!Go!Japan! — the one day music festival offering up the very best in cuttingedge Japanese and Vietnamese Rock — see page 46 for a detailed rundown of the bands. Go!Go!Japan! will be at the National Exhibition Centre, Giang Vo, Hanoi, and tickets are VND60,000 in advance from all Highway4 Restaurants, Boo Skate Shops, Al Fresco’s Restaurants and the Japan Foundation. Or pay VND80,000 on the door After the success of Summer Shorts, Hanoi International Theatre Society is returning to the spotlight this winter with more treats. Five plays — short, surreal and super funny. From relationships to buying a loaf of bread, they’ll take audiences to the limits of language in a darkly comedic way. Besides the chance to experience live theatre, which no one should ever pass up, this season’s show is also an opportunity to visit the historical Chuong Vang Theatre on Hang Bac, which the group promises to decorate in all sorts of weird and wonderful ways. Winter One Acts has four performance dates on Dec. 2, 3, 9 and 10 with the curtain rising at 7.30pm. For those who can’t wait, or just want a behind the scenes peak, you can also follow the new HITS blog at hits.hanoigrapevine.com. They’ll have interviews with actors, photos from rehearsals and other fun things for you while you’re trying to look productive at work. Check it out. Advance tickets are going for VND120,000 and can be picked up at Joma, Bookworm, Hanoi Social Club and Puku. They’ll be VND150,000 on the door. Profits will be donated to Hanoi Grapevine to support local arts

SUPER SPEEDY FILMS

Just how much can people accomplish in two days? It will shock you. A few weeks ago, all over Vietnam, seasoned and amateur filmmakers gathered their crews to rise to the challenge of making a short film in a designated genre, using one specific prop and line of dialogue, in seriously crunched amount of time. Now we’ve got 45 films coming to Hanoi. The screenings will take place over the course of three evenings, with 15 films per screening. So come sit in the dark rooms of the Megastar theatre in the Vincom Towers to search the screen for familiar faces and enjoy the fruits of others’ frenzied labour. The showings of the entries to the Canon 48-Hour Film Project will start at 7.30pm. For a more precise list of which films are being screened and when, check out the website: 48hourfilm. com/hanoi. A ceremony for award winners will take place on Nov. 12 at the Hanoi Opera House, and for those who prefer the cream, an outdoor screening of the winning films only will take place on Nov. 20

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JUST IN Openings, re-openings and all that is new your neighborhood school

BODY SHOP HANOI We’re sure the world famous Body Shop needs no introduction, but the new store on Ba Trieu might. Stocking all the usual body care products and with the same ethical approach to business, now Hanoians can get into responsible pampering too, which adds to the brand’s 2,400-plus stores in 61 countries. Find the new Body Shop at 374 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung or visit bodyshop.com.vn

GETTING WITH THE FLOW PREP FOR TET If you haven’t started thinking about Tet travel plans yet, perhaps its time to wise up before places and flights are booked up. News is just in that Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang and Six Senses Ninh Van Bay have unveiled a series of deals for select rooms to celebrate the holiday. It’s better to be the early bird then the scrub stuck in Hanoi eating cold banh chung at home by yourself. Just saying. For information about Nha Trang bookings call 5835 24705 or email reservations-nhatrang@ evasonresorts.com. For information about Ninh Van Bay deals call 58352 4268 or email reservationsninhvan@sixsenses.com — don’t forget to mention “Tet Holiday” to qualify for the deals

LACASA’S NEW LOCATION If the interior design and furniture boutique, La Casa, is your go-to when your house needs brightening up, but you can no longer find it on Nha Chung, don’t panic; the store, which could easily fit in on London’s King’s Road, has moved just around the corner to Bao Khanh Lane. And as before, it’s a breathe of fresh air on the Hanoi retail scene — small, colourful and packed with the type of home decorations that can really turn your rented narrow space into somewhere you’d actually like to spend time. La Casa can be found at number 2 Bao Khanh Lane, Hoan Kiem, with a larger outlet in the Syrena Tower at 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Contact 3718 4084 for more info

Alright, maybe the lesbian vampires on Dracula’s walls were a little gratuitous. To ameliorate the decorative scourge, the second floor establishment has been re-branded now as Flow Bar. The pool table is still there, as is the dance floor, along with good tunes, a balcony looking down onto the Old Quarter and plenty of party music. As before, the backpacker party bus stops here. Flow is located on the second at 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem

QUIRKY VN TEES

HYATT HITS DANANG Just a stone’s throw from the ancient town of Hoi An, Danang is continuing to develop at a rapacious pace. As the city expands, so have the opportunities for lodgings for travellers and business folk alike. Situated along a stretch of white sandy beach with a view of the ocean and the magnificent Marble Mountains, Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa opened its doors in October. The five-star venue boasts 200 elegantly appointed guest rooms, 182 luxurious hotel residences and 27 choice Ocean villas. For more information, check out www.hyatt.com

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While its Ma May location close Backpacker Central makes this new t-shirt shop ideal for tourists, it’s also worth noting as a foreign resident or local — especially if you’re looking to wear your love for Vietnam on your chest, or give a quirky gift to someone you know. With over 40 designs for men and 20 for women, all at one price of VND220,000, Papaya t-shirt has a load of tees you are yet to see — think Lego man street vendors, loud speakerphone prints and apes wearing motorbike masks. To top it off, a proportion of profits from this small clothing outlet are donated to Poussieres de Vie, a not-forprofit organization helping street children in Ho Chi Minh City. Papaya T-Shirt is also in Hue, Hoi An, Nha Trang, Phu Quoc and Ho Chi Minh City. The Hanoi branch can be found at 29 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Call 0947 976491 for more info

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WIRED!

EXHIBITIONIST Arts around thee city WE ARE MOVING At the end of December and after 14 years at 1B Ham Long we are moving to a new gourmet shop across the street at 6T Ham Long.

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Once on your shelf, the magazines — that of course can be rated, commented and shared — are viewed in a static PDF page-turn format, which, okay, isn’t as nice as holding a product in your hands and smelling the freshly printed spreads (or do only we do that?), but the concept is perfect for foreign residents who miss reading their favourite mags — aside from The Word, of course.

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Denmark’s marking its presence in Hanoi this month in a big way. To celebrate 40 years of diplomatic relations, The Danish Embassy has a packed line up of cultural events that are sure to entertain and enlighten. Here goes: The Emergency Room exhibition starts on Nov. 24 — here artists respond to daily occurrences each day at 11am when they’ll hand in one new piece of work for two weeks at the Vietnam Fine Arts University. “Spaghetti”, a play by the Danish Children’s Theatre group, will be performed on Nov. 28 in the Tuoi Tre Theatre, 27 Ngo Thi Nham at 4pm and 7pm. Also on Nov. 28, Niels Lan Doky with special guests will bring together both Danish and Vietnamese musicians to perform a Danish-Vietnamese All Star Celebration concert at the Hanoi Opera House. Several young experimental artists open up the artistic space of Hanoi with dance, music and theatre performances in a Street Art Festival on Nov. 30 from 5pm to 10pm at Ly Thai To Garden. And we’ll see some of the best of Danish Cinema for one big film week from Dec. 1 to Dec. 6 at the Cinematheque. For more info see the Danish Embassy’s website ambhanoi.um.dk/en where you can also find info about ticket availability

Our new shop will offer a larger selection of the ﬁnest imported wine,cheese and deli products as well as an expanded lunch and dinner menu.

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And rightly so. In some ways, the free Issuu platform is a cross between Twitter and your favourite newsagent, in that you sign up to magazines you like and they appear on your screen — or to be more precise, on your bookshelf — the moment they are published. Mags, and other, less exciting documents, can be searched by name, category, ratings and date of publication.

DANISH EVENTS

HANG BA I

In an age where cyberspace is king and everyone is thinking of ways to befriend the environment, online magazine racks like issuu.com rule.

Some might call this spoken word on steroids. There’ll be poetry, mostly unconventional, prose set to laptop noises, bi-lingual readings beyond definition, drunken g-chats spun into stories, and maybe even some impromptu translations. It’s a night aimed to bring together writers across language and culture and inject some inspiration into both the emerging and the experienced. Expect distinguished guest readers and a few surprises. An open mind is strongly encouraged. Noi Hanoi is the first of what will become a monthly series for the literary scene. Happening from 7:30pm to 9:30pm, Sunday Nov. 27 at Canopee Cafe — 60 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem

ASIAN WOMEN AND FRIENDS CELEBRATION THE MONTH AT L’ESPACE With a packed schedule of performances, L’Espace is a place to keep up with this month. First up is Trang Trinh, the young Vietnamese talent whose masterful piano hands have graced the stages of many a prestigious concert hall all over the world. She performs in Hanoi on Nov. 3 at 8pm while the world music performance of Kad Achouri — a poetic world of subtly arranged songs with simple instrumental accompaniment — goes on Nov. 15 at 8pm. From Nov.16 to Dec. 11 the photo exhibition “Becoming a Man” will be on display, initiating a cross-cultural dialogue between France, Vietnam and West Africa. And to spice up November even more, L’Espace will host a Cabaret Night on Nov. 19 starting at 8.30pm with song and poetry interpretations in English, French and Vietnamese. To top off a big month, Nov. 25 will see the Anne Paceo Triphase jazz concert, which brings together Brazilian, Catalonian and African sounds at 8pm. Contact Cedric to get involved — cedminimum@hotmail.fr. Tickets available at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem

The first anniversary celebration of Asian Women and Friends in Hanoi will bring an exhibition aimed to link culture through art this November. The Festivals des Artistes and the Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam have teamed up to bring a wide array of art from Nov. 5 to Nov. 30 — works will be on display and up for grabs. Check it out at the Melia Hotel, 44 Ly Thuong Kiet, on Nov. 5, from 5pm to 6pm or at Donkey Bakery/LShell Design, 8 Nguyen Hoang Ton from Nov. 7 to Nov. 31, between 10am and 4pm. For tickets to the Celebration Party on Nov. 5 at the Melia Hotel, contact Ei Myint at 0908 986477 or Mai Gautier on 0982 176856

The Word November 2011 | 11

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Our Man

THE BUZZ General news, promotions and events around town STEVE JACKSON

Hanoi, Bia and Me FIVE STAR FOOD FOR 21,000 LAST MONTH, BIA SAIGON WAS NAMED as the worst beer in the world by Garrett Oliver of the Oxford Companion to Beer. In the accompanying photo he is holding a fancy glass full of beer with a disastrously large head and he’s sucking in his cheeks, raising his eyebrows and looking pretty proud of himself — as only a man who gets paid to drink beer might. He says of tasting Bia Saigon, it was “really ghastly” and naturally he proceeds to blame it on politics. Because capitalism really served Budweiser well, right? Personally, I don’t drink Bia Saigon, although I don’t recall anything wrong with it. Just as well that Mr Oliver didn’t get stuck into any bia hoi — I don’t think he’d approve. But while I don’t hold with this Hanoi versus Ho Chi Minh City bollocks, drinking Saigon in a Hanoi pub would feel as wrong as drinking London Pride in my home city of Newcastle. For a long time here, loyalty meant I drank exclusively Bia Ha Noi arguing that, no, it really didn’t taste of vinegar at all. But it does. Halida is the next option but it’s somewhat bland. It’s not so much that it tastes better than Bia Ha Noi as it just tastes… less. Not quite as lacking in taste as La Rue, though, which I’ve heard described by strong-drinkloving Australians here as a “driving beer”. On the other hand, I hear a lot about how good Beer Lao is. I honestly have no idea if this is true. In my experience, Beer Lao is drunk by people in vests (tank tops) with Beer Lao written across them. As they drink it, they like to tell you just how awful Hanoi is and how much better Luang Prabang is. One half of me is indignant about that. How dare they? I love Hanoi. The other half of me is scared. What if Luang Prabang really is better? What if I went there and really found that Hanoi is clearly horrible in comparison? For that reason as much as any other it’s been 10 years since I first set foot in Vietnam and I’ve yet to go to Laos. I’ll be going this Tet, which is a worry. All those years ago, my first day of work in Vietnam was ended with an almighty bia hoi session in the lowliest of plastic stool joints. It had no toilets but that was okay. Anyone who drinks regularly in Hanoi has all but given up

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“While I don’t hold with this Hanoi versus Ho Chi Minh City bollocks, drinking Saigon in a Hanoi pub would feel as wrong as drinking London Pride in my home city of Newcastle” urinating. Those nights at the bar when you realise several pints down that you’ve yet to visit the toilet. It’s a discovery that, if shared, is usually followed, one by one at the table, with admission that now they think about it, they haven’t either. Today it’s not as bad as it was, but large parts of Hanoi used to be under a yellow fug as any available wall was fair game for the drinkers who finally had to find somewhere to relieve themselves. The smell suggested they passed only pure ammonia. Then again, maybe the evolution of Hanoi drinkers meant they’d reached a point where they could just sweat it out or let it billow from their ears like mustard gas. Shamefully this little beer reminiscence doesn’t end well for me. On a lunchtime pub visit during a trip back to the UK, my parents opted for a shandy — half lemonade, half beer. My Hanoian wife asked what that was and when it was described to her she said she’d have one too. She liked it. Nowadays, I’d rather add to my expanding waistline on a night out than continue to kill off brain cells. So it’s normally food and drink rather than just beers and shots. But sadly, and shamefully, that shandy habit has caught on — a can of Heineken and a can of Sprite. My mix is three quarters beer and hers is reverse. I know it’s a desperately uncool drink. I’m sorry. Garret Oliver and the Oxford Companion to Beer would not approve. However, the company is good and the drink still beats boastful capitalist “King of Beers” Budweiser. Best of all, unlike Beer Lao, it’s not served with an aroma of backpacker armpit and a chaser of Hanoi whine.

Vietnamese restaurant chain, My Way, is going all out for autumn by offering breakfasts for just VND21,000 across all of its outlets — My Beer Café, My Way Steak House and My Way Seafood. Contact 0909 371080, email info@myway.com.vn or visit myway.com.vn for more

MORE JEWELS IN THE CROWNE Crowne Plaza Danang is offering new packages for families and businesses up until the end of the year. Families will receive complimentary breakfast for two, VND600,000++ hotel credit daily, late checkout and extra bed for a third person with daily breakfast. The package starts from VND3,360,000++ per night per room. The business traveler will get complimentary breakfast for two, return airport transfers and complimentary late checkout for VND3,000,000++ night. For more information email resn@cpdanang.com

NINH BINH CHALLENGE Viet Adventure’s got an exciting option for those looking to test their physical limits, prove their strength or just enjoy an alternative weekend activity outside the city. In the middle of Van Long Nature Reserve in Ninh Binh Province (about 90km from Hanoi) a two-day, multi-sport challenge will take place on Nov. 19 and 20. It’s designed for teams of three and has two levels of intensity, the “Adventure” and the “Extreme”. On mountain bikes, participants will wind through what is known as the “Halong Bay on land” and then take to the trails for hiking and running followed by rock climbing and abseiling. The challenge ends with a relaxed boat ride at which point people will realise how nice a massage sounds. Accommodation is available at the Nha Nghi Hotel or Emeralda resort. For registration information contact Exotissimo at hanoiagency@ exotissimo.com or vietadventure.com

SAIL AWAY The first of Life Resorts’ fleet of 22 heritage junks takes to the waters of Halong Bay on overnight trips beginning this November. After a month of introductory single-night cruises during a soft opening phase, Life Heritage Resort Halong Bay plans to make multiple-night voyages available in time for its grand opening on Nov. 4. The floating, four-star resort also runs six and four-hour day cruises, as well as wedding photo cruises for couples looking to do something other than pose by the clichéd range of tourist sites. Day cruises depart at 11am, while overnight cruises sail at noon and return at 10 am the following day. For more information contact the Life Resorts sales and marketing office on 3844 3605, sales@ life-resorts.com or visit www.life-resorts.com

PACKED MONTH AT PRESS CLUB As per usual, it’s all going on at the Press Club this month — kicking off with Friday Night on the Terrace on Nov. 11. Singapore Sling is the cocktail of the month, going on a BOGOF basis, and on Nov. 13 and Nov. 27, happy hour priced drinks are going for the Formula One Grand Prix in Abu Dhabi and Brazil, respectively. As a standard, Press Club pizzas are also on BOGOF during every weekend of the month and if you’re getting married in November you’re in luck — with bookings for receptions at the Ly Thai To favourite, couples will earn a complimentary night aboard the Emeraude on Halong Bay. Honeymoon, anyone? For more information on any of the above, contact 3934 0888 or pop in to 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

MOVENPICK BUFFET If you’re in need of a business lunch or a place to treat someone with some fine food, it’s worth noting that the Mangosteen inside the Movenpick Hotel has a load of new dishes on it’s a-la-carte menu, including braised New Zealand lamb shank served with polenta cake and thyme for VND490,000++ and Asian specialities such as Nasi Goreng, Thai green curry and stir fired Hokkien noodles. A semi buffet — the best of both worlds — is also on the menu through November at VND370,000++ per head between 11.30am and 2.30pm Monday through to Friday. Contact 3822 2800 for more details or see movenpick-hotels. com

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THE HANOI TANNOY

THE BUZZ

Overheard Around Town

YOGA IN THE PAGODA KOTO BIKE RIDE

I’m gonna go dressed as a banh bao… or the Ultimate Warrior It was great… but you know how I feel about bacon Yes we all devour parts of his soul — but only to preserve it Man, she was quizzalicious I just got a feeling that the Qaddafi look is goin’ to be huge this Halloween

Registration is now under way for 2011 KOTO Bike Ride, which will be held on Nov. 20. The 2011 ride offers a new route starting from Hanoi. Beginning at 7.30am and starting at the United Nations International School (Ciputra, Tay Ho District), the 65km ride leads participants along beautiful country roads, through quiet picturesque villages, on to the new arrival destination of Ba Vi National Park, where riders can explore Vietnamese hidden gardens. KOTO will donate VND21,000 per person to the Ba Vi National Park. Support vehicles and water break stops will be stationed along the ride; a barbecue lunch, a botanical garden tour, a cooking class, teambuilding activities, and value added services will be offered upon arrival. KOTO can lend riders a bicycle at VND315,000 per bike to those that do not have their own. Register today as individuals, teams or corporations to raise a minimum fund of VND4 million per person; a special rate applies for local Vietnamese, self-funded volunteers, students and children under 18. All proceeds go directly to changing the lives of street and disadvantaged youth in Vietnam through the KOTO programme. For further information please contact kotobikeride@koto.com.au

BOOKWORM TURNS 10 Southeast Asia’s “best little book cafe”, Bookworm, turns 10 this November and is celebrating with a birthday bash. Music will grace the courtyard as will complimentary wine. And better news still, show a face and receive 25 percent discount on all second hand books and 10 percent off all new books — there’s 15,000 books at Bookworm so be sure to make the most of the celebrations. Turn to page 87 to read Truong’s “Four Books for Four Weeks” monthly column. Bookworm is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh. Call 3715 3711 or visit bookwormhanoi.com for more info or literary enquiries

SHUTTERBUGS UNITE After hosting a successful workshop in Hanoi earlier this year, Singapore’s Objectifs Centre for Photography and Filmmaking group will be running a travel photography workshop in Hoi An this January. Commercial photographer, photo-essayist and photoeducator David H. Wells from the US will be teaching courses through the four-day event from Jan. 11 to Jan. 16. At VND17,260,000 per person, expect to be out photographing on location early every morning, late afternoons and early evenings to take advantage of the optimum lighting conditions. There will also be daily critiques as well as valuable one-on-one shooting and discussion time with David. To learn more or to stick your name on the list visit www.objectifs.com.sg

In November, every Wednesday from 7pm to 8.30pm, Zenith Yoga will be hosting classes at Anh Pagoda (end of Alley 12 off Dang Thai Mai Street) for yoganauts to wind down in style. However, mats are not included, so don’t forget to bring your own. Donations will go towards buying mats for classes at the National Cancer Hospital and helping victims of human trafficking. For more information contact visit zenithyogavietnam.com

It’s okay to be filthy if you’re looking clean This guy likes to get on the little ones and listen to folk

MOVEMBER IN HANOI?

I respect how he’s reppin’ Dalat right now Just one of those days when I wake up listening to arena rock I still haven’t been a member of KISS for Halloween… He’s hanging around for a reason… hell, we all got reasons The only thing consistent about the traffic here is that it’s consistently bad True dat.

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SYNERGY TURNS ONE If anyone can party for 12 hours, Synergy Music Productions can — especially with their growing lists of performing artists and DJs and an even bigger following. So it’s a good job that they’ll do just that to celebrate their first birthday. There’s a lot to celebrate — Synergy have made a difference to the live music scene for foreign residents and locals in Hanoi and brought into the spotlight folk like Phuong Dang, The Only Reggae Band — now Zamina— Toothbrush, DJ Vaughan, Goodmouth Feel, etc, etc, etc. The night will also be celebrating the launch of the first Bread and Circus EP from Phuong Dang on the piano and vocals, and Luke Destefano on the drum box. The music marathon will be held at Hanoi Rock City on Nov. 12 at 2pm and will include six Synergy artists and six Synergy DJs. Visit smpasia.org for more information

It’s that time of the year — men, get your moustaches out. Why? To raise awareness of men’s health. Whether it’s sheer bravery or a case of ignorance is bliss, we’re not sure, but generally men rarely chase medical check ups. And that’s what Movember is all about; a global wake up call for men to check their health and a month-long fundraiser for various charities working in the men’s health sector. What started as a joke over a few beers among a group of friends who decided to collectively bring back the Mo, eventually became a highly anticipated global event. So, while Movember seems a touch quiet in Hanoi, recruit some Mo Bros and get fundraising. Send us your mo pics — editor@ wordhanoi.com

SOUTHERN DRAW As Hanoi prepares for the coming winter, forget about the cold and head to Novotel in Nha Trang for a hot stone body massage, which is thought to restore balance and re-energize your body. The facial treatment using pure botanical ingredients and essential oils is said to bring your skin smoother and softer in spite of the dry weather. The whole package is going for VND1,500,000 and for November only, you can buy this package and get a complimentary body scrub or body wrap or manicure and pedicure. Contact Vous Spa, 3rd floor, Novotel Nha Trang on 058 3625 6900 for more information

CHARITY BAZAAR The Hanoi International Women's Club (HIWC) will organize its 20th Charity Bazaar on Sunday Nov. 27 from 10am to 3.30pm, at UNIS in Ciputra. The Bazaar will have country tables, charity tables and commercial tables — all selling a whole heap of food and crafts giving visitors the chance to try cuisines from over 30 countries. It’s the HIWC’s largest and most colourful fundraising event of the year, raising money for selected charities in and around Hanoi. For more information, to volunteer or to see a list of the charities contact bazaarsponsorship@hanoi-iwc.com. Tickets are going for VN100,000 for adults and VND50,000 for children. Bazaar tickets will be available for sale in advance at all HIWC functions and at Oasis, Pure Heaven, Jaspa’s, JAFA and Puku, and can be bought at the entrance gates of the bazaar. All visitors and volunteers must purchase a ticket

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VIETNAM’S RESORTS WIN AWARDS

Seven of Vietnam’s hotels and resorts won top spots on the 2011 Readers’ Choice Awards, published by one of the world’s foremost travel publications, Conde Nast Traveller. The country’s resorts that made the greatest impression on travellers were Life Heritage Resort Hoi An, The Nam Hai, La Residence Hotel & Spa and Evason Hideaway, each scoring top-20 finishes in Asia. Only one other Asian destination — Bali — elevated as many resorts to the top-20 list. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi and Park Hyatt in Ho Chi Minh City each ranked among Asia’s top 100 hotels; the Majestic in Saigon ranked among the top 125 hotels. The awards polled 28,876 responses from readers who rated resorts and hotels across a range of categories, including food/ dining, location and overall design. None of Vietnam’s cities made the grade as one of Asia’s top 10 cities, though Luang Prabang in Laos came in at eight. Likewise, none of Vietnam’s islands won a place in the top 10.

MINORITY METROPOLE MUNCHIES

In honour of Vietnam’s diverse ethnic heritage, the Metropole Legend is cooking up the unique foods from Vietnamese minority regions in the hotel’s Spices Garden. Try roasted suckling pig with talauma, grilled goat, braised black chicken with taro and steamed shrimp stuffed with fresh perfume mushroom and more. Contact Mrs. Nguyen Kim Nhung or any member of her team at 3826 6919 extension 8208 to make your reservation

GIVE THANKS!

For those who are unfamiliar with the rituals that surround American Thanksgiving, it essentially boils down to this: stuff your face beyond belief, sit around with family and friends and reminisce about how awesome it was, then continue eating until you fall into a tryptophan-induced coma. And to assist with this process, Don’s Tay Ho is offering a Thanksgiving brunch feast from Nov. 24 to Nov. 27 from 12pm to 3pm. It includes unlimited seconds on request and is going for VND450,000++ for adults and VND250,000++ for children under 12. Reservations are essential. However, if you’d rather enjoy the holiday weekend at home, but can’t be bothered to wrangle up a feast, Don’s will deliver to your doorstep. Think traditional sides, plus turkey, lobster, pumpkin pie, etc. For more information or to make a reservation call 3718 5988

EXOTISSIMO DEALS WITH XMAS

For those of you who don’t enjoy Christmas away from home, and happen to live in Europe, you’ll be glad of the flight deals being offered up by Exotissimo. From Hanoi to London and back with Vietnam Airlines you’re looking at VND8,000,000 plus taxes and charges — for passengers travelling between Dec. 8, 2011 and Jan. 31, 2012 only. For domestic flights in Vietnam, one way from Hanoi to Danang is going from VND1,481,000 plus taxes and charges, and Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City or Buon Ma Thuot is available from VND2,227,000 plus taxes and charges — both deals will earn you a free infant ticket minus taxes and charges. Other deals to look out for are packages for the Ninh Binh Challenge, which takes place on Nov. 19 and Nov. 20 and the Angkor Marathon in Cambodia that runs from Dec. 3 to Dec 5. For more info, pop into the Exotissimo World Travel main office at 26 Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem District, call 3828 2150 or email tnd@exotissimo.com

Hanoi Rock City has put together a month of soul shattering music in a soul warming setting. Every Sunday, HRC and Synergy Music Productions will host Winter Warmer Sessions all afternoon from 1pm -7pm. They’ve got food, live music and a campfire. What more in the world could you possibly want? On Sat Nov. 5, smash your body into the Wall of Dub Bombfire night, featuring Bounce Love Buzz from Thailand. Fri Nov. 11, Unconventional Science descends on Hanoi, with DMN SLYR and LON bringing a must-see must-groove hip-hop and soul show. And if that’s not enough, Nov. 13 brings The Lost Souls Club from the UK. On Friday Nov. 18 Hanoi Hop City will convert the space into an all out hip hop party, with DJs, B-Boys, an open mic and an open wall that’s in need of a little graffiti. The last weekend of the month explodes with another Wasted Youth of a Nation show on Friday Nov. 25 and Saturday Nov. 26, with quality bands from Saigon and Hanoi (AKAT, Moeth, Disgusted) coming together in a lovely, lovely way.

Discounts for Word Readers at Bacchus

Throughout November, the wine and spirits retailer Bacchus Corner is offering a 10 percent discount off all wines and spirits for readers ofThe Word. Stocking both old and new world wines including products from the likes of Chanson Pere et Fils, JP Chenet, Hugel & Flis, Inniskillin, Sandalford, Cloudy Bay and much more, Bacchus's spirits selection includes a range of single malts, Russian Standard and top-end Patron tequila. Simply cut out this voucher and give it to Bacchus Corner to receive your discount. Alternatively, instead of the taking the 10 percent discount, you can exchange this voucher for a free glass of wine from Bacchus's Enomatic tasting machine. Bacchus Corner, 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem

TALKING TOASTS

Dim Sum at Ming

HANOI TO PARIS BY BIKE GETS UNDERWAY

The founding members of Roule au Printemps, a not-forprofit humanitarian association working to create educational opportunities for underprivileged children of Southeast Asia, have departed Hanoi and started a mammoth 15,000km journey to Paris — with the majority of the journey being done on bicycle. Sophie Turri and Julien Vinot left from The Alexandre Yersin French school mid-October and set off to Mai Chau before heading to Laos and Thailand by bike. They will fly to India where they will continue their journey through countries such as Nepal, Iran, Greece and Italy before arriving in Paris in an estimated seven months’ time. On route, the multilingual duo will engage with local children to encourage cultural exchanges, art programmes and educational development. To experience the journey yourself, find out more or follow the couple’s progress, visit rouleauprintemps.org. And check the route map — it really puts it into perspective as to just how far these guys are travelling

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With its contemporary design, two private dining rooms, a selective dim sum menu of 80 dishes and a fresh culinary concept, the newly refurbished Ming Chinese Restaurant at Sofitel Plaza Hanoi is now open to the public. With chef Jovi Cheng from Hong Kong at the helm, the restaurant is celebrating its comeback with a special Sunday brunch offer with up to 30 percent discount for parties of four people and more. The buffet goes for VND550,000++ for adults and VND360,000++/ for children. Ming Chinese Restaurant, Second floor, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5318

If you have a big speech coming up, go weak at the knees when speaking in front of an audience, or simply just didn’t know that such things existed in Hanoi, you’ll be pleased to hear of the Hanoi Speakers Toastmasters — a club that meets every other Tuesday at Press Club to improve public speaking skills while having a whole load of fun. The crew is made up of a lively mix of both foreign residents and locals who play around with impromptu speaking on almost any subject and prepared speeches, too. The night follows a development program that Toastmasters International has set out in its manuals, but the subject is never set in stone so the meet ups are always as varied as the members of the club. The gang meets at Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To. For more information call 01299 241893 or search for “Hanoi Speakers” on Facebook

Genuine Italian Food - Excellent Italian Wines with Sommelier's Choice - Friendly Service Cosy Ambiance - Fully Airconditioned Catering and Free Delivery 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: +84 38269080 | hoangpanevino@gmail.com

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trend

SPOTTER

Not everyone sees Hanoi as the ideal place to enjoy jogging. But there are loads who do, so tie up your laces, says Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Dominic Blewett

PACE IN THE CAPITAL Though you may imagine running for pleasure to be as bizarre a pastime as envelope licking, it seems to be catching on, one pair of chiseled calves at a time. Founded about eight years ago, the Red River Runners is a club that meets once a week on Saturday mornings to traverse Hanoi by foot, get fit and make friends. While running amid a concrete jungle offers little pastoral calm, it offers something valuable for those who brave it out, say some. “Without running, there are lots of streets and back alleys I would never have seen,” says one long-time member, Sune. “It’s a totally different experience of Hanoi — West Lake, Tet tree fields, back alleys, Red River banks, bemused bystanders, maniac drivers…” says Luke. It’s all there. And with respect to this running atmosphere, Mike describes how “[it]

18 | The Word November 2011

grips and propels you forward through a sensory assault,” which all sounds a bit intense, but then again, the thought of a relaxing cool beer or a steamy bun cha on the other end of the finish line is perhaps all the sweeter — although perhaps not quite as healthy. The Red River Runners is made up of regulars and a steady trickling of new faces. Some are seasoned record-breaking runners and others just want to try running for the first time. Regardless of the level of expertise, there is something for everyone — and in a city like Hanoi, which can often be a touch heavy on stress levels, there’s no better way to see it in a different way and release some endorphins. “Several of the Saturday runners are very encouraging to others about pushing to reach new, tougher goals, while at the same time, truly valuing people who aren't that competitive or goal oriented,”

says two-year member, April. “Having a goal out there that I'm working toward, like the 10k races, helps more than I ever knew to keep me running all week long.” Big motivating events for runners in the club include the Angkor Wat Half Marathon in Cambodia, the Hong Kong Half Marathon, the Hanoi Triathlon, as well as weekly 5km time trials. And their next event is just on the horizon — on Dec. 7, the Red River Runners will host the Song Hong Half Marathon, with a 10km and 5km race and a fun run for children. Given the energy of its members, the day is sure to be pulsating with high fives and smiles. The races start and end at UNIS in Ciputra, and even some roads have been cleared so feet can pound the city’s concrete freely, without the worry of dodging the chaos of traffic. For more info on the Red River Runners, or to sign up for any of the events, visit redriverrunners.wordpress.com.

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IN THE PAPERS The best of the Vietnamese press Scholarship Offered To Environmental Leaders

The US Embassy in Hanoi and the US Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City are seeking Vietnamese candidates for a scholarship to be given to young leaders with a focus on environmental issues. The scholarship is for a special five-week programme called Student Leaders on Global Environmental Issues, launched by the Study of the United States Institutes (SUSI). SUSI is an intensive academic programme to provide groups of undergraduate student leaders with a deeper understanding of the US while simultaneously enhancing their leadership skills. According to a press release from US Consulate General in Ho Chi Minh City, this programme is applicable for first through third-year (or fourth-year at universities with a five-year curriculum) undergraduate students who demonstrate leadership through academic work, community involvement and extracurricular activities. These students must also have a strong interest in the environment, plus a good command of English. The programme is offered to 20 student leaders from Vietnam, Indonesia, Laos and Cambodia, and will take place over the course of five weeks beginning July 2012. Five scholarships are available for Vietnamese students. The application deadline is 5pm, Nov. 14, 2011. For further information and application form, visit: http://sites.google.com/site/susistudentleaders/.

The Vietnam Center for Protection of Music Copyrights (VCPMC), on behalf of Trinh Cong Son’s family, has started collecting royalties from those who use the works of the late musician. Son’s younger sister Trinh Vinh Trinh, the family’s representative, said that under a business contract signed between the family and VCPMC, the latter will have exclusive rights to all of Son’s compositions, which run into several hundred songs. The royalty collection will apply to performances, recordings, ringtones, karaoke services nationwide and in 134 partner countries of the VCPMC. As soon as the contract was signed, VCPMC sent notices to music agencies with information about copyright purchases and payment modalities. The centre has been asked to collect royalties dating back to four years ago.

First Education Centre For Deaf People Vietnam has recently launched the country’s first research centre for the benefit of deaf children in Ho Chi Minh City. The Center for Research and Education of the Deaf and Hard of Hearing (CED) will be the first social organisation in Vietnam run by people with hearing problems to serve others in the same situation, the Vietnam News Agency reported. Some basic services provided by the centre include free measurement of hearing capacity for children, psychological counseling, language and behaviour courses, and meetings where experiences are shared. The centre will provide sonometers for poor children, offering various training programmes for sign language, lip reading — in English and Vietnamese — life skills and communication skills. This will be for both disadvantaged children and their parents. It will also give some vocational orientation to help the children integrate into mainstream society.

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Online Short Film Festival Screens

The second season of the online short film festival YxineFF shows it has established itself as a credible venue for independent young filmmakers. Freelance director and movie reviewer Phan Xi Ne, member of the selection board that viewed all the entries, said there were many interesting films that were submitted this time. Of these, YxineFF is presenting 23 each in the Competition and Overview categories and 76 in the close-up category. A highlight of this season is the screening of many films from the Southeast Asia region. There are seven from Cambodia, four from Indonesia, five from Laos, six from The Philippines, four from Singapore and three from Thailand. The main theme of this season is Niem tin (Belief). The movies are screened online at www.yxineff.com every day at 7pm until Dec. 31

900kg War-Era Bomb Unearthed

A 900kg American War-era bomb shell was discovered near a stream in the central province of Thua Thien-Hue last month, the VnExpress newswire reported. Soil erosion caused by heavy rains exposed the bomb, which was surrounded by other small sized bombs and mines underground, next to the Ta Rinh Stream in A Luoi District. Local authorities reported the find to the provincial military command and local sappers have arrived at the scene. The sappers have erected a warning sign at the stream while waiting for the water levels to come down so that they can defuse all the bombs and mines. They said the bombs, which were dropped by American forces during the war, were unexploded ordinances buried deep in the ground.

New Traditional Music Show Opens

Hon Viet (The Soul of Vietnam), a series of performances for tourists presenting Vietnamese history set to traditional folk music, has debuted at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. The 60-minute show, produced by Mekong Artists Company who will be investing VND500 million in the project, will take place on the 15th and 23rd of every month. It will have three distinct parts, with the first part a depiction of Hai Ba Trung (the Trung sisters, c.12-43AD) riding their two elephants to fight against Chinese rule. The second part will take the viewer on a journey guided by moon boy, a popular character in Vietnamese folk literature. He will guide the audience from the north to the south of Vietnam through traditional Vietnamese music. The last part will highlight Saigonese culture with the performance of Ban Giao Huong He Pho (Street Symphony) by composer Nguyen Hoai Anh. The show will be presented in both Vietnamese and English.

calendar

November

CALENDAR To have your event included in our calendar, please email kaitlin@wordhanoi.com by no later than Nov. 21 with a description of the event and a high-res photo.

WED

TUE

MON 01

THU 04

Hi Jinks @ Ronaldo’s

Happy Hour @ Southgate, 5pm to 8pm (Monday to Friday) Two for the price of one happy hour @ Don’s Tay Ho, 5pm to 7pm every day

08 48hr Film Project Screen-ing @ Megastar, 7.30pm (second of three days)

Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 6 Pathétique @ Hanoi Opera House

Festival des Artistes exhibition @ Donkey Bakery / L-Shell Design. Runs until Nov. 27, 10am to 4pm daily

Kad Achour, 6pm @ L’Espace

Festival des Artistes exhibition @ Donkey Bakery / L-Shell Design. Runs until Nov. 27, 10am to 4pm daily

Dengue Fever Workshops @ Tuoi Tre Theatre Niels Lan Doky and others @ Hanoi Opera House

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Serge Gainsbourg Tribute @ Fat Cat Bar

29 Dengue Fever Performance @ Tuoi Tre Theatre

Hanoi Speakers Toastmasters meet @ Press club every Tuesday. Call 01299 241893 for information

Jazz band @ Oyster Bar, Don’s Tay Ho from 8.30pm to 10.30pm, every Wed. and Thurs.

Quiz Night @ HRC, 8pm (every week)

Every Wednesday from 7pm to 8.30pm, Zenith Yoga classes @ Anh Pagoda

Kurt Cobain Tribute @ Fat Cat Bar Jazz band @ Oyster Bar, Don’s Tay Ho from 8.30pm to 10.30pm, every Wed. and Thurs.

Photo Exhibition — “Becoming a Man” @ L’Espace Happy Hour @ Southgate, 5pm to 8pm (Monday to Friday) Day Thanksgiving 24 All Dinner @ Press Club

Unconventional Science (USA), DMN SLYR & LON – hip-hop and soul @ HRC, 9pm Friday Night on The Terrace @ Press Club Word Hanoi 2nd Birthday @ Sofitel Summit Lounge — from 10pm to late

Iggy Pop Tribute @ Fat Cat Bar

Two for the price of one happy hour @ Don’s Tay Ho, 5pm to 7pm every day

Thanksgiving lunch @ Don’s Tay Ho from 12pm to 3pm Emergency Room Exhibition @ Vietnam Fine Arts University (runs for two weeks)

SAT 05

Wall of Dub Bombfire feat. Bounce Love Buzz @ HRC, 9pm

LinkHanoi 3rd Birthday @ Taboo Bar Hanoi Hop City, hip hop night @ HRC – free Zamina @ Ronaldo’s

25 Open Mic Night @ Ronaldo’s

Swing Night Part 3 @ House of Son Tinh

Every Sunday traditional Vietnamese trio band @ Oyster Bar, Don’s Tay Ho, 8.30pm to 10.30pm

The Lost Souls Club (UK) plus support @ HRC, 8.30pm Abu Dhabi Formula One @ JJ’s Sports Bar, 5.30pm to 12am and at Press Club Hanoi Outlet shopping @ 108A Hang Trong, 8am to 8pm

KOTO bike ride starting @ UNIS, 7.30am

The International Women’s Club Bazaar @ UNIS, Ciputra, 10am to 3.30pm. VND100,000 entrance

Cabaret Night @ L’Espace, 8.30pm Ninh Binh Challenge @ Van Long Nature Reserve. Go to www.vietadventure.com for details

Wasted Youth of a Nation @ HRC, 9pm

Triphase @ L’Espace, 6pm Zun Zun Egui @ The Youth Theatre Dengue Fever @ American Club

Thanksgiving lunch @ Don’s Tay Ho from 12pm to 3pm

Winter Warmer Sessions @ HRC, 1pm to 7pm (every week)

Synergy 1st Birthday 12-hour Party @ HRC, 11am to midnight, free

SUN 06

Percussion Night @ House of Son Tinh

Trang Trinh Piano Concert @ L’Espace, 8pm

Tribute to David Bowie @ Fat Cat Bar

Cine-music Sessions @ Cinematheque, 8pm (every week) Happy Hour @ Southgate, 5pm to 8pm (Monday to Friday)

Southgate Drink Specials 10pm to 11pm — eclectic music all night

48hr Film Project Screening @ Megastar, 7.30pm (first of three days)

FRI

Danish Children’s Theatre “Spaghetti” @ Tuoi Tre Theatre, 4pm and 7pm Noi, Hanoi @ Canopee Café, 7.30pm

Bob Marley Tribute @ Fat Cat Bar

Street Art Festival @ Ly Thai To Garden, 5pm to 10pm CBRE Real Estate Night @ Life Club, 6pm to 8pm

The Word November 2011 | 23

the talk

PHOTOS BY IAN PAYNTON

ROOFTOP BIRTHDAY The high-life favourite celebrated its 1st birthday in style with lucky draws, live music and a load of dancing

Family Medical Practice’s psychotherapist Douglas Holwerda met with the city’s residents to talk about stress – the ups and downs of living in Hanoi

PHOTOS BY IAN PAYNTON

HEALTH TALK @ HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

The Warehouse and Press Club teamed up to let Hanoians experience top French wine from Bernard Magrez up on the terrace

PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC

The Metropole Legend's contemporary Italian bar and restaurant celebrated 1095 days with a bash

WINE TASTING @ PRESS CLUB

The Tong Dan favourite and The Warehouse set out to prove that wine and Indian food goes together – mission accomplished

PHOTOS BY IAN PAYNTON

ANGELINA TURNS THREE

WINE PAIRING @ KHAZAANA

PHOTOS BY IAN AN PAYNTON

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY THE METROPOLE

overscene

KOTO FUNDRAISER Almost VND42 million was raised for KOTO when John McLeay from Melbourne's Red Spice Road Restaurant cooked for special guests with help from the students

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insider

photo by dominic blewett

the last blacksmith laughing fit a green breakthrough?

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“People only watch Hollywood films and things that are clear and easily digestible. I think it’s very dangerous because it doesn’t make the people think, it makes them lazy and fat in the mind”

Q&A

PHAN DANG DI IS ONE OF THE MOST talked about filmmakers in Vietnam. He began making waves when he became the first ever Vietnamese filmmaker to be selected for the Venice Film Festival in 2008, while at just 22 he wrote the script for Adrift for his university thesis. That film went on to win the International Film Critics Award at the Cannes Film Festival in 2009 and this year his first solo feature-length film, which he wrote and directed, Bi, Don’t be Afraid, was released globally. Douglas Pyper sits him down. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos You presented Bi, Don’t Be Afraid for the first time at Cannes. From there it went to 40 festivals in 30 countries over 3 continents. Was it shown in any of the big Vietnamese cinemas like Megastar? Yes, but the box office wasn’t really good. When the film was released in Vietnam there were cuts of more than five minutes. Wow, that’s a lot. Which parts? Almost all the sex scenes, even those between the husband and wife. I’ve seen the uncut version, if those scenes are cut then I don’t think it makes any sense. Yes, without those scenes the audience is unable to understand what happened or why.

In Adrift and Bi, Don’t Be Afraid the role of women seems to be quite negative, do you agree that’s true of your films? No, not really negative. I think in my films, the women sometimes look like the victim but in fact, they are very strong. In my point of view, Vietnamese women are very strong — much stronger than the men. The men are weak like babies, but when women interact with the men they are always silent and never fight with them because they know that the men are weaker than them. Outside of that, I think that one of the very important things in Vietnamese culture is family values. But I think only the women help to keep the family together because the men are like children, who only look to please themselves. The women are at home taking care of the family. Your films tend to have lots of themes that could be quite challenging for an audience. Do you think it’s important for a film to make the audience think? For me, making a film is about asking questions, not providing an answer. You have to give the audience an important question and they should answer it. They should find the answer by themselves, not receive it from me. That is why

the story never provides answers concerning situations or actions. Like in Bi, Don’t Be Afraid, I could not say if the husband is good or not, I cannot say who is a good man, who is a bad man, who is the victim and who is the victor. You should discover the answer. Do you think that is a reason why Vietnamese audiences say they don’t like or don’t understand the film? Yes, because people only watch Hollywood films and things that are clear and easily digestible. I think it’s very dangerous because it doesn’t make the people think, it makes them lazy and fat in the mind. Art, literature, everything should make people think and expand their minds. They aren’t babies, they are adults and they should answer some questions. The process for choosing a Vietnamese film to be submitted to the Academy Awards doesn’t seem to be very open and the process is a bit unclear. A lot of critics were surprised that your film wasn’t chosen and wasn’t even on the shortlist. What are your thoughts? I didn’t care because I know that the Oscars have a different taste and I don’t think my films fit in. Even if they chose my film, I think that I would have nothing to expect. If you want to make an Oscar film you have to choose a different style. They need a clear story, which is different from the kinds of films I make. What about Thang Long Aspiration, the film that was submitted to go to the Academy. Why do you think that film was chosen? [laughs] It’s a story about 1,000 years ago and not recent times. How has funding for Vietnamese cinema changed in recent times? I think Vietnamese cinema nowadays is very different because we have private film companies and they don’t need money from the [authorities]. They make films themselves and earn profits. But for state companies it’s a big problem because some filmmakers won’t have a salary because the money is gone. It’s a big problem and a sad story. Independent filmmakers have to look for support and funding from abroad because Vietnam has no support for young filmmakers.

Do you think it will have a negative effect on young filmmakers in Vietnam? Not really because in Vietnam even the young filmmakers have always had to look for support from other sources.

The Word November 2011 | 29

Laughing Fit

A crazy, see-it-to-believe-it fad is sweeping the capital. And while that means an early start, it’s definitely worth it says Debbie Clare. Photo by Dominic Blewett

5am is never all that funny. It’s an hour at which sightings are usually observed after a late night out, during a trip back from the airport or after one has been woken up by the commencement of construction. It’s not a time for laughing — for most it’s an hour reserved for sleeping. It’s no secret that for many Vietnamese, the day begins with exercise, whether it’s badminton, aerobics or running. More recently people have started ballroom dancing by West Lake and break dancing in Little Lenin Park, and it’s no longer rare to see salsa and sexy dancing breaking out in unpopulated areas at daybreak. But now something else has arrived, which is taking the city by storm; move over tai chi, it’s time to get silly. A group of over 250 people are mid-squat in front of the Ly Thai To statue opposite Hoan Kiem Lake. I can’t tell if my bleary eyes are deceiving me when I see them all motioning like they are brushing their teeth with giant invisible tooth brushes, while others engage in face pulling, chanting, clapping and giggling. Are old ladies really tapping youngsters on their shoulders before running away in slow-motion, like faux pantomime villains? This is Laughter Yoga — the sport of sheer madness. Every morning, hundreds of revellers flock to the square on Dinh Tien Hoang to take part in what can only be described as 60 minutes of total lunacy. And it’s brilliant. One might wonder how it’s possible to laugh at absolutely nothing at all, but as soon as you start stomping, stretching, hand-rubbing, back-patting and shaking-it-all-about, genuine laughter begins to come easily. Before you know it you’re pretty much only thinking about how to make the person next to you laugh even harder. And until you’ve seen a couple of hundred people brushing their hair with invisible brushes, or playing invisible pianos before sticking their fingers in their ears, it’s hard to imagine how it can be funny. “I got bored of aerobics, this is more fun and the more you do it the more happiness you feel inside your body; it's good for the body but more importantly, it's good for the soul too,” says one participant, having calmed herself down after the session.

Faking It

Laughter Yoga originated in Mumbai in the early 1990s and is now practiced in scores of countries with thousands of clubs springing up as the joke spreads. The discipline centres on the human brain’s apparent inability to differentiate between fake and real laughter. What starts as an artificial giggle can transform into psychologically real laughter. According to its practitioners, Laughter Yoga brings more oxygen to the brain and the body, and with the assistance of yogic breathing and the release of endorphins, it’s easy to feel pleasantly heady and uplifted. “I was already practising Tai Chi and Kung Fu and decided to go to India for 18 months. That’s where I encountered Laughter Yoga for the first time,” says instructor Le Anh Son. “I knew that Vietnamese people would love this type of exercise, so I decided to bring it home to Hanoi.” Just 13 people attended his first class in 2007. “People were shy at first, it was a bit daunting,” explains Son. “But now we have over 200 people attending every day. The biggest ever turn out was over 600.” Another joker chimes in, “I've been coming here for a few months now, and of course it makes you feel good when you're here, but it makes you feel good for the rest of the day as well. When you walk away smiling you pass that smile on to everyone you meet, and the happiness spreads to other people”. Sixty minutes of near-constant laughing makes tummy muscles ache to the equivalent of 100 sit ups, which means that washboard stomach could be more of a reality if you can just manage to make it along every morning. Laughter Yoga takes place at 6am under the Ly Thai To statue on Dinh Tien Hoang and is free

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The Word November 2011 | 31

the many faces of hanoi

The Last Blacksmith Words by Debbie Clare // Photo by Dominic Blewett

usting mallets, giant oil-stained nails and soot-covered buckets line the walls of what is 52-year-old Nguyen Phuong Hung’s working museum. On a street that onced housed scores of blacksmiths, Hung’s tiny corner workshop is the last remaining business of its kind in the city. “Blacksmith Street has lost its meaning now, like most of the streets in the Old Quarter,” says Hung. “The names no longer represent what is sold or made there, it makes me sad to see the old city disappearing.” Around 1990, many of the traditional businesses that inhabited their namesake avenues began disappearing and were replaced by hotels, cafes and souvenir shops. Before, the blacksmith network on Lo Ren Street had felt very much like a family affair. According to Hung, workers had a common interest and could share tools and insights concerning their trade. As Hung administers another handful of finely chopped charcoal onto his smouldering workshop fire, he explains: “I know most of the shop owners on this street, but we don’t have the same closeness and familiarity that was present when we were all blacksmiths.” Hung’s scarred, blistered and blackened hands bear the brunt of the wear and tear that this physically demanding job inflicts. He sits amid an array of buckets, drills and saws, effortlessly lifting a heavy metal mallet before thundering it down onto a glowing red-hot pin. His forearms are like those of a giant. To challenge him to an arm wrestle would be as fruitless as an ant trying to push a mountain, and while his clothes are oil-stained, burned and ripped, his spirit is not. “I know that it’s considered to be a low-class occupation, and I am judged because of my dirty hands, but to me it feels like art; you have to be creative to do this, and that’s the part of me which a machine will never be able to replace.” Hung is the final successor in a family business that has spanned three generations. He accepts that his children have chosen a different path — one that entails university study and modern life over traditional, labour-intensive work.

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“My father really wanted me to take over the business when he retired, and I couldn’t say no, so I changed my career plans and started working here in 1991, and although at first I hated it, I grew to love it,” says Hung, who studied engineering before becoming a blacksmith. “Now I understand that to do a job well you have to really love it, and so I want my children to feel the same about what they do.” In a city where modern buildings are springing up at an almost alarming rate, the job of a blacksmith remains surprisingly relevant. Demand for Hung’s expertise is high with his clients, mostly from the construction sector, who require him to fashion bespoke nails and pins for their projects. “In the West the majority of a blacksmiths work is in making horse shoes, but I can make anything,” says Hung, who remembers when his family did make shoes. “We didn’t have many horses here so we made shoes for the cows. There used to be loads of them wandering around these streets before we had cars and motorbikes.” Some of Hung’s stranger creations have included making swords and spears for theatre productions. He has even been asked on several occasions to make tools used to disinter graves. The rusting artefacts, which are crammed onto the ageing shelves inside Hung’s workshop, are derived from various origins. A 1954 Electric Blower is one of the oldest tools in the workshop, and as Hung adjusts its dial, a firework display emerges from the embers and rains down onto the floor around him. Glistening charcoal dust blankets the workshop floor and the pavement outside. A soot-stained kettle sways and sings above the bright orange mouth of the fire, while Hung slams his mallet onto another red-hot pin, before tossing it into a blackened pot of cold water. One day, in perhaps another decade or two, there will be no remaining blacksmiths on Lo Ren — the name will be a mere nod to a past tradition martyred to modernity. But while Hung’s first and most important tools are still within his reach, the kettle, the anvil and the hammer will steam, clatter and bang on for another day. Hung’s workshop can be found on the corner at 26 Lo Ren, Hoan Kiem

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n e e g a

? h g u o r h t k a bre Green Architecture

It is no longer the alleviation of poverty that is the major concern in Vietnam. Now, classified as a lower middle-income country, the focus has moved to climate change. The stats don’t read well. Vietnam is the 11th most vulnerable nation to suffer the effects of extreme weather conditions and it is the seventh most-at-threat country from rising sea levels with the livelihood of 5.7 million people at risk. Fortunately a number of projects and moves are underway which are attempting, step by step, to make Vietnam into a greener, more environmentally aware country. From greener urban planning projects and architecture designed to reduce energy consumption, through to conservation drives, the replanting of depleted forests, eco-resort projects and new transport systems. We look at some of the measures being taken to move Vietnam towards a greener, more environmentally friendly future. It’s not all bright and rosy. But it’s moving in the right direction.

Words by David Stout. Additional reporting from John Thornton, Christine Van, Kaitlin Rees and Ian Paynton. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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“I disagree when people say Vietnam is not green,” says Phillipe Perruchot, a Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design architect for Greenspace Property in Vietnam. “To see the result of green you have to wait. It takes time. There is real progression happening here and if you want to grasp the reality of green in Vietnam then don’t base it on what has been done already because nothing is really visible. It’s inside discussing, convincing and educating,” adds Perruchot, who consults for development projects in Vietnam to ensure new buildings can earn the globally recognised “green” benchmark, LEED. He has a valid point. Very little green development is tangible and, to date, besides the Colgate-Palmolive factory in Binh Duong Province, which was awarded silver certification, there are currently no LEED accredited commercial buildings in Vietnam. There are environmentally conscious buildings, and companies such as GreennoCom who help to make office operations more environmentally friendly, but in terms of construction certified to a globally recognised standard, there is nothing. “It’s difficult to do a green project here,” says Perruchot. “It’s always easier to do non-green… mainly because of the money and training… Also for materials.” He adds: “Usually, green really takes

off after the [authorities] have offered some incentive. Materials incentives, tax incentives, square metre incentives or land incentives, which all absorb a little bit of the first costs and motivate more people.” And while such incentives are not yet common place, the Vietnam Green Buildings Council (VGBC) — a leading NGO officially recognised by the Ministry of Construction — says that in-government education is in great shape and major steps have been taken to ensure that Vietnam’s skylines-to-be are as environmentally friendly as they are impressive. “The [authorities] have been very supportive in terms of giving the VGBC an allowance to work cooperatively with them,” says Melissa Merryweather, the southern representative for the VGBC and the general director of Green Consult Asia. “Probably the biggest achievement to date is setting up a green buildings rating tool specifically for Vietnam.” The Vietnam-specific green building rating tool, LOTUS, according to the VGCB, is not only built on existing international rating systems such as LEED (US), BREEAM (UK) and Green Star (AUS), but is also tailored more to the specific challenges of Vietnam. When aligned against a new building, or future plans, the system addresses 10 categories — energy, water, materials, ecology, waste and pollution, adaptation and mitigation, community, management and innovation.

Points are given to a project according to how many credits are achieved in each category and projects are then awarded with the congruous level of certification. No buildings are currently certified as of yet, but are expected to be during the next nine months. Ho Chi Minh City’s Phu Nhuan District is home to what is thought to be Vietnam’s greenest building — Centre Point, a 15-floor office space designed in accordance with Australian green regulations. The building’s design reduces CO2 emissions by up to 20 percent and saves over 30 percent on energy by using “eco disc” elevators that consume up to 70 percent less energy than hydraulic drives and 50 percent less than traction drives, while converting the excess energy from the elevators into power that is funneled into the building’s grid. Centre Point’s water use is linked to a building management system — a tool currently used by 20 percent of government buildings and 10 percent of civil buildings — that monitors and controls a variety of systems at an optimum level of efficiency. At a Promoting Energy Saving in Buildings conference earlier in 2011, Nguyen Cong Thinh, an energy specialist from the department of Science and Technology at the Ministry of Construction, claimed that the improvement of energy systems in Vietnam’s old buildings could save up to 20 percent on energy while installation of a complete building management system

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eco stays While “green” is so often used as a marketing buzz word, Pascale Herry, from Buffalo Tours Agency, says that those claiming to be “eco” should meet some criteria, which includes a lodge being located at least a thousand metres from a village so as not to interfere with local life. Air conditioning should also be avoided and eco-lodges must be designed for cross ventilation. They should be completely surrounded by nature, designed to merge with the landscape and work with and give something back to the community. While responsible travel destinations in Vietnam do not always meet all of the suggested, the following are certainly taking steps to become eco. PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang www.panhou-village.com Located in the almighty Ha Giang Province, far away from the backpacker mob in Lao Cai, this eco-lodge offers up solar powered water systems in the

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accommodation, which is constructed among two hectares of vegetable gardens and lush jungles. No internet, no TV, just local, ethnic minority staff and low key guided treks. LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai www.lavievulinh.com Perched on the banks of northern Vietnam’s largest lake, Thac Ba, La Vie Vu Linh ticks many of the boxes as it works across education, environment, tourism and culture. It employs and schools a local workforce from the nearby village and helps them learn more about their own cultural identity — the Dao Quan Trang ethnic culture. BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam With this UK registered charity, intrepid travellers explore untouched areas of rural Hanoi with the knowledge that the tour fees fund low-interest microloans for the poor, rural women they meet during their tour. The social business has been up and running in Hanoi for six months and so far has issued more than 40 loans to marginalized women in the rural areas it visits. During the trip, tour-goers can visit the homes of the entrepreneurs, engage in rural activities with them, and see a side to Vietnam that could never be seen otherwise.

MIA NHA TRANG Nha Trang www.mianhatrang.com Set near the sparkling waters of the East Sea and with its own private beach, the resort is committed to conserve the environment by establishing green ecoroofs for all its rooms. The eco-roofs (made for layers of rubber, plant, soil and grass) provide insulation where the soil layer works by providing a large thermal mass, which protects the structural fabric and therefore keeps it cool. JUNGLE BEACH Nha Trang www.junglebeachvietnam.com Located on a three-acre property located 64km from Nha Trang, guests have the option of sleeping under the stars (under a mosquito net, of course). The resort aims to leave a tiny carbon footprint by building all facilities, including the resort itself, without the use of machinery. Everything, including the furniture, is built with bamboo. SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Nha Trang www.sixsenses.com Located on the isolated Ninh Van Bay, the resort has a water house that produces pure water, used to water the resort’s organic garden. They also practice earth hour where lights in the resort are turned off for one hour from 7pm to 8pm every night.

MANGO BAY Phu Quoc www.mangobayphuquoc.com The resort lies amid 20 hectares of largely endemic forest and gardens. Since 2006, Mango Bay has been supporting Wildlife at Risk (WAR) and Phu Quoc National Park to collect and replant the Dipterocarpus, an indigenous plant that is becoming rare on Phu Quoc Island due to illegal logging. MEKONG LODGE Cai Be www.mekonglodge.com Situated on an island and sat just beside the Tien River, all the material used to build the lodge is collected from within the local area. According to the lodge, they use the shells of rice grains and coconuts for energy, and then use the ashes as fertiliser for their garden. In addition, solar energy is used to heat water that runs throughout the facilities. FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park www.forestfloorlodge.com/www. namcattien.org Positioned on the perimeter of Cat Tien National Park, the lodge has a programme called ‘Dozen for One’ where they plant at least 12 native hardwood trees for every one that is removed to build their facilities. Waste water treatment has been installed while their main building was constructed to maximise the use of natural shading and ventilation.

could save up to 40 percent. It would appear that a conscious effort is being made in Vietnam to raise awareness of energy consumption and the green ideals that are only just being fully picked up in countries like the UK and US.

Greener Cities

According to projections in the Vietnam Development Report 2011, by 2025 half of the country’s population will live in cities — compared to today’s 30 percent. If this much is true, thoughtful construction amid conscious urban planning will be key to making Vietnam’s municipal landscapes more green; both physically for healthier living and in terms of its carbon footprint. Amid the cranes, dust and incomplete constructions of Hanoi’s fast-rising Tu Liem District, development plans for the capital up to 2030 with a vision to 2050 have been laid out. “The plan now is for the new city to be 70 percent green space and 30 percent residential housing,” says Tran Hung, who is a member of the Association of Vietnamese Architects and professor of urban planning at the Hanoi Architectural University. According to the architect, ambitious plans like this one were once made for the Hanoi of today. After liberation in 1954, a master plan inspired by Soviet design was created by the Vietnamese, which included vast amounts of green space. All of West Lake, for example, was set to be only trees, but in recent years, thanks to the adoption

of market principles, more houses, hotels and commercial buildings have sprung up around Hanoi’s largest body of water. “It’s too late for the original city and as Hanoi has expanded, it has already used too much of the existing green space,” adds Hung, who points to diagrams and miniature models of the future Hanoi, which extends to Tam Dao in the north, Gia Lam in the east and Ha Tay in the west. “Green space out of the four goals — culture, civilisation, green space and modernity — is the biggest problem, not only in Hanoi but in many Asian cities. Because of rapid population booms, cities are often designed in the wrong way,” says Hung, who claims that at a recent regional conference, all countries in Southeast Asia agreed that making cities ecological and sustainable was a key factor in future development. “The aim is to make this city harmonious with nature. But it’s not easy … when investors are more interested in things that make money. There is a constant debate between planners concerned with nature and business ventures. It’s a hard battle,” he adds, looking down at the miniature model of a neighbourhood set to have space reserved for lakes, parks and trees, and high rise apartment blocks with rooftop lawns. On the wall, along with images of when Hanoi was a city of lakes and canals in the 18th century, are diagrams of ecobuildings; high rises stuffed with trees and green-educated staff who are doing their all to ensure their carbon footprint is as low as possible.

But according to Merryweather, the development that will likely have the most immediate impact on the country’s urban efficiency will be the completion of functional mass transportation systems in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. “There’s nothing that even comes close,” she says. “Vietnam needs subways, light-rails, wide roads, better train lines and buses, motorbikes off the sidewalks, and bigger parking lots so that cars aren’t parking on the street.” There will be a total of 10 metro lines in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City by 2030. The first of Hanoi’s lines, which is now under construction, will run from Tu Liem District to Hoan Kiem District and includes 2km of skyline, 3.6km of underground railway and 12 stops. When fully functional, it will transport 900,000 passengers a day, whom otherwise may have used motorbikes. The first line in Ho Chi Minh City, which is also under construction, will run from Ben Thanh Market to Suoi Tien in District 9. As Vietnam plunges into a greener future, it is inevitably the concrete jungles that will bear the most tangible effects. Hopefully the need for sustainable cities with a low carbon footprint will outweigh the commercial instincts of the developers.

Appetite for Destruction

The last Javan rhinoceros in Vietnam is dead. After extensive genetic analysis, the World Wildlife Fund confirmed on Oct.

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the windy country Thousands of kitesurfers around the world head to Vietnam every year to take advantage of Vietnam’s windy climate. Director of Dragon Capital’s Clean Development Fund Gavin Smith says this force of nature can also help alleviate the country’s dependence on fossil fuels CONSIDERING THE LOW OUTPUT OF WIND TURBINE ENERGY, IS IT AN IDEAL INVESTMENT OVER ALL OTHER FORMS OF ENERGY? Wind turbines produce about 30 percent of their designed capacity — coal plants produce 80 percent. So coal looks more efficient, but wind is free and has no environmental cost, whereas coal produces significant local air pollution for residents and has a large cost on human health. Fossil fuels all contribute to climate change — something that Vietnam is extremely vulnerable to the consequences of. WHAT EXACTLY IS WIND TURBINE ENERGY AND HOW IT WILL BE USED IN VIETNAM? WHAT ARE THE IDEAL LOCATIONS FOR THEM? Vietnam has excellent wind resources in the islands and provinces of Ninh Thuan and Binh Thuan, possibly also the Mekong Delta. Private companies are developing plans to build 'wind farms' of 20 to 30 turbines each, which will sell power to the power grid with long term supply contracts. WHO WILL MANUFACTURE THESE TURBINES? WILL THEY BE MADE LOCALLY OR IMPORTED? Some components such as steel towers for wind turbines are already made in Vietnam for export to other countries and General Electric has opened a factory in Hai Phong. 1st Solar will open a large solar panel factory soon. But this is tiny compared to the manufacturing opportunities available to Vietnam. We would encourage more Cleantech companies to locate plants here. WHAT IS STILL CAUSING THE BLACKOUTS IN VIETNAM? IS IT BECAUSE OF THE WEAKNESS IN THE GRID OR SIMPLY BECAUSE THERE IS NOT ENOUGH POWER? Demand for power grows in Vietnam at roughly twice the rate of GDP growth. So GDP growth of 7 percent means we need 14 percent more power next year, a very challenging task for any country. Even developed countries would struggle to keep up. Power prices to consumers have been kept artificially low in the past and this has not attracted investors to build new power plants here. Also, until this year there were no specific incentives for developing renewable power such as wind or biogas, so none were created. In other countries renewable power is targeted to contribute up to 20 percent of total power sources and, in 2010, China was the country with the most new wind power installed in the world.

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"Forest cover nationally has dropped from 43 percent in 1943 to about 27 percent in 1990" 25, 2011 what many in the conservation community have been dreading. “It is painful that despite significant investment in the Vietnamese rhino population, conservation efforts failed to save this unique animal,” said WWFVietnam Country Director Tran Thi Minh Hien in a press release. “Vietnam has lost part of its natural heritage.” In April 2010, locals came across the remains of a rhino in the bottom of a ravine near a shallow stream in Cat Tien National Park, 150km north of Ho Chi Minh City. Postmortem analysis uncovered a fullyjacketed metal round — most likely from an AK-47 or CKC rifle — embedded in the rhino’s left forelimb. The bullet did not immediately kill the animal, but experts concluded that the resulting impairment of locomotion and/or possible infection are ultimately responsible for the animal’s death. The animal’s horn had been taken. “Reintroduction of the rhinoceros to Vietnam is not economically or practically feasible,” says the WWF’s Christy Williams. “It is gone forever.” While the Javan Rhino was previously believed to be extinct in mainland Southeast Asia, a small population was rediscovered in Vietnam in the late 1980s. Between 10 and 15 individuals were believed to exist, but later surveys stated that there were likely five to eight living rhinos in the area. As of 2010, only one individual remained. But after millions of dollars had been poured into the project, the circumstances surrounding the animal’s death and likely sale of the horn on the illicit traditional medicine market was a devastating blow. The International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources’ programme coordinator Jake Brunner describes the event as a “watershed” among the conservationist community. “[It] triggered an exodus of international talent from Vietnam,” he says.

“I think that what happened with the rhino is a very, very costly wake up call,” says People Resources and Conservation Foundation’s Fernando Potess, who has been working in conservation in Vietnam since the late 1990s. “The problem is, there have been many wake up calls before that have not actually woken people up.”

Fuelled by Forests

The past 20 years in Vietnam have been remarkable. The economy has expanded by an average of 7 percent annually since the mid-1990s and according to the Vietnam Development Report 2011, “poverty has fallen drastically from 60 percent in 1993 to 14 percent in 2008”. In 2009, Vietnam was reclassified as a “lower-middle-income country”. But much of the economic expansion and inertia has been fueled by the use of domestic natural resources. With its diverse topography and climates, Vietnam is home to 10 percent of the world’s vertebrate species and an incredible amount of biodiversity for a country that takes up only about one percent of the globe’s land mass. But forest cover nationally has dropped from 43 percent in 1943 to about 27 percent in 1990. As of 2009, the number rebounded to 40 percent, which is largely a result of investments in plantations. However, as IUCN’s Brunner puts it, “the area of quality forest is probably only five percent of total forest cover”. Along with quality forests, Vietnam’s tiger population has also been wiped out and few believe the remaining roaming elephants will last much longer. Endemic species including the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey, the saola and the Siamese crocodile are all dangling precariously on the brink of extinction. There have been signs of success, albeit limited to projects where there’s been long term foreign

The Word November 2011 | 39

"Vietnam has five of the 25 most endangered higher primates in the world"

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presence focusing on a restricted range species, like primates, or with captive breeding programmes such as at the Cuc Phuong Turtle Conservation Centre. “Vietnam has five of the 25 most endangered higher primates in the world. Just by knowing that you and your country have five particularly special primates is a great honour,” says Potess. “The Vietnamese population has to jump on the wagon and say ‘Yes! We are losing our national heritage.” As of 2010, Vietnam was ranked 85 among 163 countries with respect to its environmental performance index, which measures countries’ “performance level relative to their established environmental policies targets”. There’s plenty of blame to go around for the country’s huge depletion of its fauna and flora. Vast amounts of money are put into conservation efforts in Vietnam and about 15 percent of the country is classified as protected. According to Brunner, on a hectare basis, spending on Vietnam’s protected areas is among the highest in the world. But throwing money at a problem doesn’t appear to solve everything. Enormous projects funded by international donors are often inflexible. Policies often look good on paper, but enforcement at the ground level and park management is often ineffective. Throw into the mix that Asia’s economic rise has lead to the expansion of wildlife trafficking that feeds

traditional medicine and culinary markets domestically and abroad, and it becomes clear that more is needed than good topdown intentions. The nascent, but growing, domestic NGO sector will be a pivotal factor in Vietnam’s green future. While international NGOs are often instrumental in securing large funds for domestic projects, it’s the local organisations that are able to nurture vital grassroots movements and start dialogue at the official and communal level that are instrumental to any type of sustainable change. “More organisations are emerging because now the registration process is quite easy and open,” says People and Nature Reconciliation’s executive director Trinh Le Nguyen. “Now it’s a matter of how to survive and how to actually do work and carry on [with] the mission of the organisation.” At People and Nature Reconciliation, Nguyen and the 25 full-time staff members are instituting a multi-pronged, holistic strategy to protect the country’s biodiversity. Tasks include a news website, a nationally published policy review, managing field projects and hosting roundtable discussions with policymakers and Vietnamese think tanks. “When we started, we needed a lot of capacity building and support from international groups,” says Nguyen. “In the future, we hope more domestic philanthropy organisations will look at the

environment and conservation issues.” While Nguyen admits the task at hand is enormous, he has hopes that greener days await in the future. Attendance from policymakers at their forums and roundtable discussions is on the rise. As the country’s middle class expands, Nguyen says young people are increasingly looking at ways to get involved and are concerned with the country’s environmental health.

Flooding in The Delta

More than any other region in Vietnam, the Mekong Delta is the most in need of green development to mitigate the effects of climate change and upstream damming. Despite its relatively small size — it covers 12 percent of the country — the region is responsible for the production of almost 50 percent of the country’s rice and 90 percent of Vietnam’s rice exports. However, according to projections, 19 to 38 percent of The Delta’s land mass could become submerged if predicted rises in the sea level become reality. One look out of a window around dusk in Can Tho is enough to trigger unsettling reminders of a post-apocalyptic film. Without the warning of a rainstorm, water advances through the downtown area for a few hours, eventually rising above the curbs, before it recedes back to its mysterious origins. “The flooding of downtown Can Tho

"19-38 percent of the Mekong Delta will be submerged if predicted sea level rises become reality"

raising the roof Thien Duong, a member of the board of directors of the Vietnam Green Building Council, on eco-roofs WHAT ARE THE ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS OF THE ECO-ROOFS? The roofs provide insulation via a soil layer that provides a large thermal mass to protect the structural fabric, therefore staying cool. The plants further help this as they soak up a lot of energy from the sun and convert it into food through photosynthesis. The sunlight also dries out the soil, resulting in evaporation, which helps to cool the built fabric. IS THIS A ONE-OF-A-KIND DESIGN FEATURE? The green roofs are nothing different; it’s not a new invention. It’s been done before in many parts of the world but it’s still quite new for Vietnam.

IS IT EXPENSIVE TO IMPLEMENT AN ECO-ROOF INTO AN ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN? An eco-roof always costs a little more than a typical concrete, tiled or ballasted roof system, and there are more aspects to consider during the build. It’s heavier in terms of construction as you have to take in to account the weight of the soil, the substrate underneath the soil, and the water. Also, to build it properly, you need the proper geo-textile membrane layer underneath, which stops the soil from seeping into the drainage system. Without being specific, it might cost an extra 20 percent more to incorporate into the design. The eco-roofs designed by Thien Duong are presently being used at the recently completed resort, Mia Nha Trang The Word November 2011 | 41

"Since 1943 the area of mangroves in the country has decreased from 400,000ha to less than 60,000ha in 2008"

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only started happening a few years ago. People point to the flood and say that it is climate change and it’s very easy for them to do that,” says Dr Duong Van Ni of the Natural Resources Management department at Can Tho University. “But really the reasons have a lot to do with what is happening on the regional and local level, not just the global level.” According to Dr Ni, variations in the Mekong River’s unique tide have had a big influence on the flooding and the deluge of water entering central Can Tho over the past 20 years. But the construction of dykes upstream has made the tidal inundation much more serious and with mass damming on the Mekong slated for the future, problems are likely to be exacerbated. “In China, they have three hydropower dams and have plans to build another five. In Laos, Thailand and Cambodia, they have plans to build 11 hydropower dams to be completed between now and 2030,” says Dr Ni. “This strongly impacts the downstream area of the Mekong.” “If [more] hydropower projects are constructed without proper investigation of the negative consequences then it can lead to very damaging impacts for agriculture, water use for farming, clean water supplies for people and for biodiversity and forest preservation,” says Gavin Smith, director of the Dragon Capital Clean Development Fund. The situation demands urgent action to avoid serious consequences — there needs to be a balance between protecting the ecosystem and meeting demand for economic growth, says Vietnam’s Climate Change Resilience Centre. “The neighbouring countries are now inter-related, and common policies must be reached and legally-bound to retain mutually benefiting relations among countries in the region,” says Vu Trung Kien, the general director of Vietnam’s Climate Change Resilience Centre He adds: “Unfortunately not much has been done to protect The Delta and The Mekong. A committee is in place, with regular meetings, but they do not have real authority over the decision-making process.” The most natural defense against rising water levels are the largely depleted mangroves, which help prevent flooding and saline intrusion. They also protect coastlines from the damage caused by tropical storms and typhoons. But since 1943 the area of mangroves in the country has decreased from 400,000ha to less than 60,000ha in 2008. There are mangrove forest preservation programmes in the south. But as, Dr Ni

says, on the development front there is conflict between enlarging the amount of land reserved for shrimp farming and giving land over to build industrial parks. And the human population is increasing yearly. “As the population increases and more living space is required, it will be more difficult to preserve the mangroves. The coastal area is fragile and easily damaged by storms and typhoons,” says Dr Ni. “That's why there's a conflict between the objectives of the preservation programmes and the local development in the area.” At a low elevation of about one metre, near the border of Cambodia, sustenance takes precedence in the rice farms of An Giang Province, which will be among the most affected parts of Vietnam if tides continue to rise. Along one stretch of road, behind wire fences, chickens, dogs, and ducks, a rice farmer, Chi, is hunched over a ball of fishing line on a wooden planked floor. She looks out at her rice fields submerged under a few feet of water. When talking of her business, she is neutral in describing the changes her family has experienced over the years. “Profits depend on the market and the price of rice,” says Chi. “Vietnam is one of the biggest exporters of rice; its value really matters here.” Today, her concerns largely revolve around prices. However, upstream dams may alter the traditional flows of mineral rich waters that have been consistent for hundreds of years, and, if sea levels rise, saline intrusion and mass submersion will devastate the area and end their way of life. But how much will Chi and similarly situated farmers’ potential plight in The Mekong Delta be taken into consideration at the United Nations Climate Change Conference in Durban, South Africa in November? As the second largest exporter of rice in the world, failure to protect Vietnam’s rice bowl would rein untold havoc domestically and internationally on both prices and food security. But Vietnam’s green future will depend on more than just international moods — local and civic action is integral. An interest in green issues is growing in Vietnam, especially among the youth, says Kien. But for a major green breakthrough to occur, cooperation from all members in society will be required. “In comparison to regional countries and the global movement, Vietnam engaged early in the process but has made little progress,” he says. “Even though the pace keeps rushing forward, a green breakthrough is still far off.”

walk this way As the nature of overseas aid coming into this country changes with Vietnam’s reclassification as a middle-income country, a crippling aid vacuum can only be filled by the local community writes Douglas Pyper The number of volunteer groups in Vietnam is growing rapidly, particularly around the issue of the environment. Today there are more than 100 environmental clubs in Hanoi, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City. In Hai Phong, too, there are groups of young social activists trying to make Vietnam a better place to live. Tran Thang is the founder of the Hai Dang Volunteer Group and this summer he and two other students made headlines by walking 18,000km from Hai Phong to Ho Chi Minh City to raise awareness of environmental issues. “We think the environment is the future of our life and youth is the future of our country,” says Thang. “So the young have to be the pioneers in protecting the environment.” During their 42-day journey they handed out leaflets, gave presentations and networked with environmental groups up and down the country. The leaflets provide the foundations of environmental awareness like “practice the 3Rs”, “use natural products” and “save electricity” — basic information that many don’t have. “I think because people have concentrated too much on development and personal benefits,” says Thang, “we have become somewhat selfish, and don’t think about the next generation.” The Hai Dang group has more than 400 members throughout the country and in a wider context the diaspora of fledgling groups of environmental activists have recently received a boost from the Green Generation Network, a project helping groups share resources and coordinate action. The hope is the efforts of these young pioneering activists may well help Vietnam overcome many of its most serious problems. The Word November 2011 | 43

add up your carbon footprint with these numbers How much CO is created by......

n e g

how

? u o y are

57 g

one minute cellphone call

25 g

ironing a shirt

22,600 t

all web searches (worldwide)

300m t

the internet

0.014 g one text message

63 g 13.6m t

71 g

5.1 t

610m t

810m t facebook (yearly)

average car

average desktop per hour

3.4m t

cup of tea

862m t

France

United Kingdom

2.5 kg

76 g

burger

28 inch TV (1 hr)

1.9bn t Australia

Russia

4 kg

670m t 24m t all flights worldwide

London 2012 Olympics (projected)

Skype

15 t

3.3 t

one kilogram rice- average

730 g 10 g standard plastic bag

toilet roll (not recycled)

168 t a music festival 44 | The Word November 2011

average UK citizen

average person in China

average world citizen

100 g

1 kg

100 kg

10 t

100 t

1 kt

100 kt

1 mt

CO2 or CO2-equivalent emissions figures from public and media sources using different methodologies. The figures are for illustrative purposes only and have'nt been verified by the proper authorities The Word November 2011 | 45

SUMMER’S GONE BUT FESTIVALS HAVEN’T — THIS DECEMBER CAMA TEAMS UP WITH THE JAPAN FOUNDATION TO DELIVER A WHOLE HEAP OF ROCK

GO! GO! JAPAN! MUSIC. IT CAN HELP TO HEAL WOUNDS AND IT CAN BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER. WITH GO!GO!JAPAN IT’S DOING BOTH. PROMOTING THE REJUVENATION OF JAPAN IN THE AFTERMATH OF THE EARTHQUAKE AND TSUNAMI, THREE OF THE HOTTEST ROCK ACTS FROM THE LAND OF THE RISING SUN AND TWO OF HANOI’S MOST TALKED ABOUT BANDS WILL TAKE THE STAGE FOR ONE DAY OF RIFF-BASED CARNAGE

CASTMIVAAL FE

SPECIAL

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Okamoto's These psychedelic garage rock sensations are Japan's fastest rising stars. Young, dynamic and talented, the band have forged a name for themselves over the last three years based on their intense stage shows and brash, raw sound. With a frontman who commands the stage like Mick Jagger, a baby-faced drummer with more energy than Keith Moon, a guitarist who looks like he fell out of the Ramones and a moustachioed, mercurially talented bassist, the band seems genetically modified to play live. The group of 20-year-olds have already played more live shows than most people will ever go to —100 in 2009 alone — and have earned an enviable tightness and reputation for their efforts. They’ve already started to make a name for themselves internationally, touring the US, Australia and Hong Kong to rave reviews from fans and media. They stole the show at the CAMA Festival 2011 and now they’re back, showcasing their third album, Kick out the Eyes, released through Sony Japan earlier this year.

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Molice

Rosewood

A staple of the Tokyo club scene, Molice have been plying their trade since 2007 — influenced by everything from Bladerunner to Manga to The Catcher in the Rye. Their first two albums introduced cracking floor fillers like Headphone and Romancer, and featured a choppy punk sound akin to Talking Heads or Franz Ferdinand. Now on their third album, atmospheric instrumentals leading to racy choruses hint Molice are moving on to a more, post-rock aesthetic reminiscent of New York’s Interpol. Cat-suit wearing front woman Rinko made Molice a host of new fans when they rocked the CAMA Festival in 2010 and now they’re back with a new bassist, a new sound and the same attitude they showed us first time round.

Rising from the ashes of local rock/numetal bands Buratinox and SmallFire, Hanoi alternative rockers Rosewood have gone on to become one of Vietnam's leading live acts. Building a reputation for stirring sing-alongs and power ballads, Vu Ha (lead guitar), Nam Thang (bass), Trung Kien (drums) and Vu Nhat Linh (vocals, guitar) have won fans around the nation with their performances at rock showcases like Rockstorm, Tiger Translate, Metropolis and the CAMA Festival.

The Promoters THE JAPAN FOUNDATION PROMOTES INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL EXCHANGE ON A NON-PROFIT BASIS AND HAS DONE SO SINCE 1972. ITS COLLABORATION WITH CAMA AIMS TO BRING THE DYNAMISM AND SPIRIT OF YOUTH CULTURE FROM NORTH AND SOUTHEAST ASIA TOGETHER FOR A DAY OF GOOD VIBRATIONS. CAMA HAS BROUGHT MORE THAN 60 ACTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD TO VIETNAM WHILE HELPING TO FOSTER THE DEVELOPMENT OF EMERGING VIETNAMESE MUSICIANS AND THE ESTABLISHMENT OF A YOUTH MUSIC CULTURE IN VIETNAM AS A WHOLE.

PHOTO BY AIDAN DOCKERY

The Gig GO!GO!JAPAN! WILL BE AT THE NATIONAL EXHIBITION CENTRE ON GIANG VO, AND TICKETS ARE VND60,000 IN ADVANCE FROM ALL HIGHWAY4 RESTAURANTS, BOO SKATE SHOPS, AL FRESCO’S RESTAURANTS AND THE JAPAN FOUNDATION ON 27 QUANG TRUNG. OR PAY VND80,000 ON THE DOOR.

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT: CAMAVIETNAM.ORG/GOGOJAPAN

Electric Eel Shock

Ngu Cung (or Pentatonic) is a quintet from Hanoi hailed as one of the most technically impressive bands in Vietnam for their pick of progressive rock/metal with strong cultural and traditional flavours. Founded only a short time before the Tiger Translate contest in late 2007, they eventually won the prize for best band and were chosen to support My Chemical Romance on their first appearance in Vietnam. Known for expressing Vietnamese identity and culture through their music as much as their passionate and theatrical stage performances, Ngu Cung will always be ones to watch.

48 | The Word November 2011

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

Ngu Cung

This band is so fun that their manager is a comedian and Japan’s first ever karaoke champion. Their drummer is famed for playing with four drumsticks to increase the power of his sound, but nobody’s quite sure why he likes to play naked except for a strategically placed sock. Formed in Tokyo in the late 1990s, the group has spent over a decade in near constant touring, playing every festival and city you’ve ever heard of across Europe and America. Primarily influenced by Black Sabbath and, you suspect, more than one viewing of Spinal Tap, EES have a strong indie work ethic — they collectively sold their houses and everything they owned to tour The States, raised more than the equivalent of US$50,000 using online resource Sellaband to release an album, set up their own label and even offered their fans the opportunity to become one of the “100 Samurai” to gain guest-list-for-life status. When he’s not moonlighting as a professional angler and fishing journalist, frontman Aki Morimoto is crafting danceable rock tunes so catchy they won the Best Music Act of the Year at the NEO Music Awards and attracted praise from leading rock magazine Kerrang!

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LO VE A direct flight from either Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, Paris is an endearing destination for a short stay before moving on to the rest of Europe. But don’t expect to find romanceobsessed couples kissing in the streets. Words and photos by Nick Ross

y most enduring memory of Paris was on a school 'Economics' trip when I was 18. We were staying near Porte de Clichy and one night rather than coaching it back to the hotel we decided to walk. The road took us past the Moulin Rouge in the Montmartre area and our economics teacher Mr Connolly — infamous for having tried to persuade the now legendary John Barnes to finish his last two years of school rather than pursue a career in football — led the way, his wife a few paces behind. Suddenly a lady of the night accosted the poor man and tried to drag him into a taxi. He fought back but it took his screaming wife and a short tug-of-war to prevent a potential tragedy. Despite having issues with youth unemployment and disturbances in the ill-at-ease suburbs, in Paris, such occurrences are rare. But when such an amusing

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if not bewildering event sticks in your mind, you tend to displace other memories and forget all else. I have passed through Paris twice since, but both journeys were fleeting and accept for being forced off the Boulevard Peripherique (the city ring road) by a truck, there was nothing to add to my memory of this historic city. So little was I prepared for the visual wonder I encountered as I stepped out of Gare du Nord at sunrise after a long haul night flight and a train into town. On first appearances, architecturally Paris is a breath stealer. And in the moist, cool, early morning Autumn air I found myself breathing in simultaneously the sights and sounds of this great city. From the bistros and cafes on almost every corner through to the myriad of dramatic arches and spaghetti-like but amazingly convenient metro system, the architecture and the lifestyle is something to behold.

The Regal Factor With the two great capitals of London and Paris in such close proximity and separated by a short, two-hour, Eurostar train ride, there is a tendency to throw these two metropolises up for comparison. But that is where it should end. While France and Britain have a shared history, a language that is 30 percent the same and similar but distinct cultures, their largest cities have fared differently over time. The biggest influence on the look and feel of today's Paris came in the form of Baron Haussmann, the prefect of Napoleon III, who in the 1850s and 1860s bulldozed large swathes of the city, replacing it with the wide boulevards, squares and the six or sevenstorey window shuttered, cast-iron railed balcony buildings prevalent around the city today. London, too, went through an urban planning revolution in the 19th century, but wartime bombing in the 1940s destroyed large sections of the city. So while London is a mish-mash of styles and is both easy and difficult on the eye, except for Le Marais, which was left largely untouched by the restructuring fervour of Haussmann, the rest of central Paris bears his magesterial mark. It is at once charming but full of similitudes, endearing but steeped in strict, unnerving tradition, full of surprise but predictable. And then of course is the grandeur. Except perhaps for St. Petersburg, Rome and maybe Istanbul, nowhere has as many astonishing historical sites to make your eyes more than just bulge. Forget the cliché of the Eiffel Tower, the city's most famous landmark, here almost every place of note has something astonishing attached to it. Take Musee d'Orsay, a former train station transformed into one of the city's many art museums. Walk inside and you are embraced by the multitude of sculptures, oils and installations. Together with high ceiling decor, this is enough. But this museum, like its more modern inside-out contemporary, The

52 | The Word November 2011

PLACES TO VISIT THE EIFFEL TOWER (Metro: Bir-Hakiem) Yes, it’s a cliché, but stand under the tower itself, look up at the structure and you will see why this architectural wonder is revered. If you want to go up to the top, though, be prepared to queue THE LOUVRE (Metro: Palais-Royale-Museé du Louvre) I went on a Tuesday when the world’s most famous art museum was closed. Typical. But for sights of the Mona Lisa and images out of Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code, this is the place to go. The museum is enormous, though, so be prepared for tired feet NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL (Metro: Cité) Set on one of the city’s two islands in the middle of the River Seine, Notre-Dame is quite a sight. Inside is even more impressive. Just don’t expect to see any hunchbacks unless you pay extra to head up to the tower MONTMARTRE (Metro: Anvers / Abbesse) The highest point in Paris, this former hillside village outside the city walls is

home to Sacré-Cœur, one of the city’s more impressive churches, and was once the playpen of artists such as Renoir, Degas, Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec. Full of winding, cobble-stone streets, traditional boulangeries and charcuteries, and with places like the Moulin Rouge at its base, it’s best to visit early before the crowds block out the views PUCES DE ST-OUEN (Metro: Porte de Clignancourt) Open at the weekend, this huge collection of flea markets on the edge of the old city sells everything from antiques to iPods, classic furniture to streetwear and African tribal souvenirs to Turkish rugs. A great place to get a taste of the real Paris, just keep your eyes on your wallet MUSEÉ D’ORSAY (Metro: Solferino) Dramatically filling a restored train station with paintings and sculptures dated between 1848 and 1914, this museum also houses a number of unparalleled collections of impressionist and post-impressionist work. It als has a number of rotating, nonpermanent exhibitions

THE MARAIS (Metro: St-Paul St-Louis) The former Jewish Quarter of the city and filled with a wealth of museums, around the narrow streets of Rue des Rosiers and Rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie are a number of independent clothing boutiques sat next to Kosher Pizza restaurants and bagel bakeries. Quite a contrast. The only area that escaped the urban planning of Baron Haussmann, this is the Paris of old, perfect for a wander THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS (Metro: Grand-Boulevards) Built on the old city ramparts, the Grands Boulevards are eight broad streets that extend in a long arc eastwards. Once the chic quarter of Paris, these streets have now turned into the closest the city has to a shopping destination with both topend boutiques and cut-price luggage and souvenir stores battling for space. Scattered around the area are 19th-century arcades or passages that hark back to a different era while close to the Opéra Garnier are the famed department stores Galerie Lafayette and Printemps

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THE IMAGERY OF THE PAST HAS WOUND UP IN THE SCORES OF MUSEUMS LITTERED ACROSS THE CITY, WHILE THE WORK OF THE PRESENT, NOT BACKED UP BY GALLERIES AND CURATORS, HAS WOUND UP ON THE STREETS

ACCOMMODATION Paris isn’t a cheap option for anyone looking for budget accommodation, but it’s still possible to find rooms for €50 or €60 a night, especially if you stay close to Gare du Nord or Gare de l’Est. Otherwise, expect to pay around €100 per night for a two or three-star hotel. Check out HOTEL SAINT QUENTIN (www.paris-hotel-saint-quentin. com), HOTEL PARISIANA (www.hotelparisiana.com) and the quintessentially classic HOTEL CHOPIN (www.hotelchopin. fr). To get deals on four-star and five-star hotels go to www. agoda.com or www.parishotels.com. Both websites also do discounts on cheaper hotels.

Pompidou Centre, says it all about Paris. The exhibitions on my visit included a semipermanent selection of post-impressionist works by Gauguin and Van Gogh together with a non-permanent exhibition of late 19th-century aesthetic movement works translated badly into English as ‘The Cult of Beauty' — it was qualified in French by the word “voluptuousness” and the “time of Oscar Wilde”. At the Pompidou they were showing the work of Norwegian artist Edvard Munch, known most for his recently stolen oil, The Scream. While France has played its role in more recent, artistic movements, it is still the 19th and early 20th centuries that remain predominant here. Paris is a city endowed with a wealth of history and both a glorious and tumultuous past. And while the modern age catches up fast in its suburbs and city limits, with even theme restaurants and chain stores starting to make themselves heard, in town the ambience has tradition written all over it.

Past and Present It is my last morning and I decide to head to the fabled Puces de Saint-Ouen, Paris's best known collection of weekend markets. Located just beyond the ring road, although only a short metro ride from town, SaintOuen lies at the northern extremity of the

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old city and at the start of the urban sprawl. I arrive early — the stall-holders are still setting up — and as I wander through the maze-like collection of markets I am struck how Saint-Ouen represents a microcosm of this city. The clothing, accessories and artifacts stores on its periphery are mostly run by the country's North and West African minorities. And in the centre, the antique and furniture outlets are under the auspices of the Caucasian French majority. As I meander through one of the covered markets with French, North Africaninfluenced rap blaring out somewhere beyond, I notice the almost wall-to-wall graffiti on the walls above and surrounding all the stores. One shopholder opens a door out back and shows me a small football pitch with a back wall and end-to-end mural-like street art. Images of Nelson Mandela, African desert poverty and black power stand out from the rest, a token of the affections of the people in this area. Its effect is striking. The majority of France's best footballers grow up in suburban Ile de France, in areas like Saint-Ouen. And then there is the art. The imagery of the past has wound up in the scores of museums littered across the city, while the work of the present, not backed up by galleries and curators, has wound up on the streets.

GETTING THERE AND TRAVEL Direct flights from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City to Paris take under 12 hours and are available with Air France and Vietnam Airlines. There are now six flights a week to Paris Charles de Gaulle from Hanoi and five flights a week from Ho Chi Minh City. Go to airfrance.com.vn for details. Charles de Gaulle airport is a half-an-hour RER train ride to Gare du Nord close to the centre of Paris. The airport train costs €9.10. The metro system in Paris is both efficient and convenient — the walking distance between stops is between five and 10 minutes. A single fare costs €1.70 and you can buy multiple tickets at the same time from machines in the stations. For a map of the metro system and information on how it works, go to www.parismetromap.org.

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Made in Vietnam Clothing lines from Sula are crafted in Vietnam with natural, fair trade, luxury fabrics and bold or subtle colour palettes. From here, British fashion designer Alison Taylor sells to stores around the world â&#x20AC;&#x201D; primarily in the USA, Japan, Europe and Australia. All items will go on sale at www.shopatsula.com in Jan. 2012. Special Vietnam prices available.

Left Moon Blouse: tie back, cotton and silk mix. Colour: pewter. Price: VND3.68 million Big Pocket Skirt: fuchsia cotton and silk mix. Price: VND5.06 million Above Mist Dress: Grecian style, fine silk chiffon outer, organic cotton voile lining, real pearl embellishment on shoulder. Colour: pewter. Price: VND8.26 million

Left Fairy Dress: bodice organic cotton jersey, apron style skirt fine silk chiffon. Colour: ash. Price: VND4.6 million Above Big Pocket Skirt: Two pockets and pleat front, twill-weave silk. Colour: pewter. Price: VND4.83 million Collette Blouse: Peter Pan collar pleat, silk chiffon. Colour: powder pink. Price: VND3.3 million

Left Cloud Dress: bias cut heavy habotai silk, chiffon sleeves. Colour: peapod. Price: VND5.29 million Above Sunny Dress: circle skirt halter neck dress, organza silk outer, habotai silk lining. Colour: fuchsia. Price: VND8.35 million

Models Ha Vy & Andrea Aybar

Photos Aaron Joel Santos

MYSTERY DINER

STREET SNACKER

Arriba!

Vermicelli and The Way of The Fish

Tired of packaged Tex-Mex alternatives, our cloaked reviewer heads to the city’s only dedicated Mexican joint to discover that perhaps the search for authentic tacos is finally over. Photos by Dominic Blewett

Phillip Turo is still drooling over noodles. This time it’s never-off-the-mark bun ca guarded by a crazy dog you’ll come to love. Photos by Dominic Blewett IT SEEMS THAT THE HUNT FOR ‘authentic’ Mexican food in Hanoi is the North American foreign resident’s equivalent of the search for the Holy Grail. Rumours abound the city of a passable plate of nachos being up at Tay Ho, a suggested sugary sweet Alfresco Mexican Platter leads to howls of derision, another expert swears by the burritos at Vine Cellar Door, while old stalwarts Café 129 and the R&R keep churning out approximations that seem to keep less demanding Americans, Australians and Europeans happy. Old El Paso home taco kits seem to have sadly set the benchmark in terms of defining what the Mexican, or more accurately Tex-Mex food experience is all about — e numbers, a desiccated flavouring sachet, sliced lettuce and tomatoes and reheated refried black beans from a tin. Yum. Fine cuisine it certainly isn’t. I’m by no means an expert, but a visit to the chaotic, backpacker-swamped Old Quarter located Arriba! (exclamation mark obligatory) proved it’s not all doom and gloom on the Hanoi Tex-Mex frontier. Arriba! was barely visible between a heaving, seething mass of backpackers on the evening we visited. The packed street side tables would have been perfect for one of those Hanoi nights blessed with a vague breeze, but instead into the narrow confines of the tube-housed restaurant we went. We first perched at the bar, directly facing the heat emitted by the open kitchen, then popped up to the gallery above, which proved to be floor seating and again wallpapered in backpackers. Finally we went back downstairs and settled on a narrow table designed for two, but now

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accommodating three. Menus perused, we went for a mammoth order, to cover all the bases, I was assured by my American dining companion. More in hope than expectation we divided up the order into vague starters and mains. We plumped for the chef’s salad (VND55,000) and nachos with beans (VND55,000), but with the place full and the staff working like demons it took 20 minutes before we managed to nab a Tiger Beer (VND27,000) and a passable mojito (VND55,000) somewhat bizarrely served up with a blue plastic spoon for stirrer, let alone 45 minutes before our first orders reached the table. While waiting for the salad, and a plate of nachos that never arrived amid the chaos, we ended up with a breathless owner plonking down a couple beef tacos (VND30,000 each) and a rapid follow-up of beef carne asada enchiladas (VND100,000). I found the beef tacos a bit bland, only enlivened by a dash of green Tabasco sauce. The enchiladas on the other hand were great, sitting in a pool of well-seasoned tomato sauce and smothered in a mix of cheddar and mozzarella, which would be a good choice for a main dish. As we mowed our way through the conveyor belt variants of tacos, we were particularly impressed by the fish option (VND25,000) that combined tasty catfish with crunchy fresh lettuce and a piquant sauce. They were matched by the equally good BBQ pork variety (VND30,000), featuring slowcooked, shredded pork, abetted by a sweet tangy marinade. The only one downside, for which we received an apology from the owner for, were the slightly brittle tortillas that seemed to crumble at a mere glance. My only real dislike on the evening was the

accompanying salsa, as the tomatoes had absorbed a distinctly odd flavour from being marinated with the acidic pineapple for too long, perhaps. A balance between freshly made batches and service speed needs to be taken into account by Arriba! — especially during busier nights. Given the pandemonium, the serving staff, although harassed and at breaking point, proved helpful despite the stress, and the kitchen staff looked easily capable of coping with anything Gordon Ramsey could have thrown at them, such was their dedication in their very own hell’s kitchen. Don’t come here expecting an interior design triumph — the place is only a small step up from a regular Vietnamese canteen eatery with perhaps the exposed roof beams and wood seating being an unconscious nod to a Mexican theme. Nor is it a particularly comfortable dining experience — unless you have a passion for sitting cross-legged or facing the open kitchen — but there’s something indescribably likeable about the place. My American dining companion remarked that the brusque service, lack of attention to plating and general bedlam definitely pushed all the right authenticity buttons for fast-food cantina Tex-Mex dining.

THE VERDICT Food: 9 Décor : 6 Service: 7 The Word reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for all meals

ABOUT A THIRD OF THE WAY DOWN Ngo Trung Yen — an alleyway the shape of a dog’s leg — there is a small brown and white hound that chases motorbikes. You will recognise him by the excited, upward tilt of his nose and the reckless look in his eye. But fear not, he’s useless at what he does and will give up after a couple of yaps and a few pathetic leaps. Yet even if he was a pro and you really did run the risk of being bitten by him — even if he was the most rabid of creatures — it would still be worth running the gauntlet of his idiot jaws to get to the street food stall beyond, where, nestled in the part of the lane which would be the dog’s knee, under an old, drooping seed tree, is Mrs Sam Cay Si’s bun ca stall. She has been in this area for the last four years or so, serving up tasty bowls of noodle soup and her own invention — hot rolls of minced pork and herbs, wrapped in fresh fish and fried breadcrumbs, or ca cuon thit. Mrs Sam’s journey to the summit of Mount Fish began in Hue where as a young woman she was schooled by an uncle in the secret art of ‘cook fu’, with a focus on snail and fish dishes. Once she had completed her training and decided to open a restaurant in Hanoi, figuring that snail dishes are easier to copy and fearing a future surrounded by plagiarist stallholders who would swipe her recipes, she chose to specialize in fish and leave the snails behind. In 1994 she and her husband opened the famous Lan Vi Fish Stall behind Chu Van An High School on Thuy Khue. There, her ca cuon thit leapt out of her home kitchen for the first time and onto the plates of drooling diners. There, the tear ducts of rival restaurants ran

dry as they added the rolls to their menus and then tried in vain to copy them. In fact, they were so unsuccessful that if Mrs Sam ate at any of the local restaurants and ordered her invention the staff would sneak over to Lan Vi Fish Stall and buy the dish.

"She decided to only serve one dish, and to do it perfectly. And she does. Unlike other food stall owners in Hanoi who, through either laziness or complacency, allow the quality of their food to nosedive once they become popular, the food you eat here will always be high quality and it will always be the same" When Chu Van An High School was expanded, Mrs Sam moved across town to Gia Ngu, and after flirting with geese and chicken (bun ngan and pho ga) for a couple of years, returned to The Way of The Fish. She decided to only serve one dish, and to do it perfectly. And she does. Unlike other food stall owners in Hanoi who, through either laziness or complacency, allow the quality

of their food to nosedive once they become popular, the food you eat here will always be high quality and it will always be the same. This, Mrs Sam says, is her secret, and I would stand up in a court of law or before Poseidon himself and confirm that it is true. Sometimes the ingredients change according to the season. For example, you may find morning glory (rau muong) in your bowl or the slightly tastier winter dropwort (rau can). The broth will derive its slightly sour taste from green mango in the summer, but from sau in the winter. You may or may not spy a piece of pineapple in your bowl. But the lumps of grilled fish are always plump and completely boneless, and the cha ca is crunchy — not the 99 percent flour, weird, rubbery offerings you might expect from other vendors. Even though the ingredients are often tweaked slightly, there will never be a terrifying change in taste. You will never leave here thinking that it wasn’t as good as last time. You will always leave wondering if you can get all of your nutritional needs from bun ca and ca cuon thit and whether you should eat here three times a day. You will leave Mrs Sam Cay Si’s food stall happy. Happy in stomach and happy in mind, knowing that in a city of Sinh Café and Sinh Café and copy copy copy you’ve eaten something you can’t have anywhere else. And you will see the dog that you previously wanted to kick and you will kiss it on the lips, and it will kiss you back. Bun Ca Sam Cay Si, So 5 Ngo Trung Yen. Open daily 7am to 5pm. VND25,000 to VND30,000 per bowl of bun ca. Ca cuon thit goes for VND7,000 per roll

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business

Business Listings ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 065 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 065 BUSINESS CONSULTING 066 BUSINESS GROUPS 066 COPYWRITING 066 CORPORATE GIFTS 066 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 066 INSURANCE 066 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 066 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 067

city guide

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BEVERLY INVESTMENT B003A, B Building, The Manor, My Dinh Tel: 794 9669 www.beverly.vn Professional investment company dealing with real estate resort, hotel and senior housing projects all over the country. Working to promote sustainable development, Beverly provides good value for its partners, investors, customers and society.

TMF GROUP 8th floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3944 9733 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 2660 Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: 3910 2262 www.tmf-group.com TMF is headquartered in The Netherlands, with over 86 offices in 65 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

KPMG 16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 1600 www.kpmg.com.vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS 7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2246 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

Business Listings 065 Destination Listings 069

THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY

Out & About Listings 076 Fashion Listings 088 Medical Listings 089 Home Listings 090 64 | The Word November 2011

PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

Leisure & Arts Listings 083

313 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4976 2055 A Vietnamese company with more than 30 representative branches outside of Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range of services, including audit, accounting, tax, corporate secretarial and business consultancy.

TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED 2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 3910 922 www.tmf-group.com With over 3,300 professionals working out

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 067 LEGAL SERVICES 067 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 068 MARKET RESEARCH 068 PUBLIC 068 RECRUITMENT & HR 068 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 068 SERVICED APARTMENTS 068 ARTICES LEAD WITH NUMBER 064 of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides independent accounting and corporate secretarial services to companies worldwide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout the world. Learn more about our unique network and our services by visiting our website.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING GREY GROUP 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.grey.com/vietnam Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full spectrum global communications company offering branding, advertising, marketing, digital, and PR, with offices in 100 countries. Grey is the only agency with a specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam the client roster includes Vinaphone, Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile, BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local and international brands.

LEONITO 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com In addition to their own clients, Leonito works in partnership with the Grey Group, a major full-spectrum marketing and communications company with offices in nearly 100 countries. Services include research, branding, activations, events and public relations.

OGILVY & MATHER 8/F Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3822 3914 www.ogilvy.com International marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know-how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

T&A COMMUNICATIONS 104 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 3913 T&A is a marketing services company set up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve offered their marketing services to several large overseas companies. They also work in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide brand communications firm.

LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.leonito.com Leonito develops marketing campaigns & behaviour change communications strategies for commercial brands and non-

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business government organizations. Services: brand development; design & printing; gifts & premiums; marketing; public relations & events. Clients include multi-national brands and NGOs.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC. Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No. 4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 9662. www.boozallen.com A US-based private consulting firm, Booz Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable names in the business. This firm has a long track record of assisting governments and multi-nationals in risk assessment and mission development.

DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP 33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 2692 www.thinkdkg.com Established in 1991, this international firm has extensive experience in emerging markets. Their speciality is in providing advisory and training products to private sector enterprises and NGOs.

ERNST & YOUNG Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3831 5100 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalize on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, stateowned and foreign.

T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh. Tel: 3728 0776 www.t-cgroup.com A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate of companies operating since 1994, T&C’s focus is on providing internationalstandard consultation to engineering and infrastructure projects. They also provide market research consulting.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong. Tel: 3934 2790 www.amchamhanoi.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSCHAM 10 Lane 283 Doi Can, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3762 2282 www.auschamvn.org An organisation bringing together Australian companies and individuals doing business in Vietnam, the Australian Chamber of Commerce offers advice on doing business. Also offers networking opportunities and social events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 91 Pho Hue, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0906 240159 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP 185 Giang VoSt., Dong Da. Tel: 3512 1846 www.lacviet.com.vn Since its founding in 1994, professional services and innovative solutions has led LAC VIET to a recognized position of leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs more than 400 professionals in IT services and product development. LAC VIET is a certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; Cis-

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business coTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and Authorised Service Provider(DASP).

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2229. www.ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2228. www.eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam Tel: 3641 6864. www.nordchamhn.org.vn Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Level 4, Kim Ma Building, 561 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3771 1004. www.sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

COPY WRITING ABLE COMMUNICATION Tel: 0913 502829 able@fpt.vn An experienced editor is available to proofread copy and help produce inspired communication or marketing collateral. Able Communication has been providing professional services and solutions to Vietnam’s business community since 2003. For more information about how we can help your organisation, call or e mail.

CORPORATE GIFTS REGAL PREMIUMS 10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1459 www.regalvietnam.com Regal Premiums produces trendy corporate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional gifts and branded mass giveaway items. Professional team helps with design to fit your brand and production and logistics to fit your budget.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CB Richard Ellis (Vietnam) Co., Ltd 6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 0220 www.cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM 9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5888 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services. Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho www.daluva.com/apartment Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas. Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

HANOI HOUSE HUNTER Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0983 336336 www.hanoihousehunter.com This company can assist you in finding an apartment that meets your living and budget requirements. Though they specialise in high-end, high-rise apartments, they do have a range of options. The website contains most listings.

KNIGHT FRANK 40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem www.knightfrank.com UK real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sale, lease, management, price appraisal, counselling and market research.

MEGALAND 2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5556 Specialising in meeting housing needs of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese, Megaland offers a wide range of serviced apartments, villas and commercial spaces.

SAVILLS VIETNAM 6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1300 www.savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

TAN LONG HOUSING 49 Au Co, Tay Ho. Tel: 0913 345152 www.tanlonghousing.com Tan Long has been concentrating on assisting individuals in the process of buying, selling and renting property in Hanoi since 1999. They also have several branch offices, and a useful website that can help to fill residential or commercial needs.

VIETNAM LAND 38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0934 416661 Vietnam Land was incorporated in Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and residential real estate services, real estate property management and real estate development company. Since that time Vietnam Land has successfully developed two residential towers at the Chelsea Park project in Hanoi and a residential land sales project in Hung Yen province called Villa Park.

INSURANCE AIG Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 1455 www.aig.com Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam. IF Consulting 5 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: 3755 7111 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1 800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centers throughout the country.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay. Tel: 3795 8878 www.concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. It arrives in Hanoi in August 2011 but is enrolling from pre-school to grade seven now. Located to the west of the city.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh www.hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6418 www.hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies

representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho. Tel: 3936 0203 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

INDOCHINA CAPITAL Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3930 6399 www.indochinacapital.com A leading investment firm operating in the ASEAN region with a particular focus on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors and clients to achieve financial objectives while focusing on four core areas: corporate finance and advisory services, investment management and real estate development.

MEKONG CAPITAL 12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4888 www.mekongcapital.com A private equity firm which focuses on the growth equity of companies in the developing Vietnamese economy.

SG VIETFRANCE VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 2220 8979 The Vietnamese subsidiary of France’s Societe Generale, the company recently opened a Hanoi. This was the first financial company in Vietnam to focus entirely on consumer credit.

VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO. 4th Floor, 44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 5986 www.viet-tin.com A locally based securities and stock brokerage firm whose stated mission is to provide valued returns to partners and shareholders.

VINACAPITAL 5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 4630 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a an investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 2051 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers highquality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 1922 www.britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses –

business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

CLEVERLEARN Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1698 www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly conversational and business English courses. An authorised in iBT test site by the ETS.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM 62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3733 8402 www.languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0990 Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE 13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1428 www.bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide onthe-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS DERINGER #05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 7422 This law firm works in 19 countries and is one of the world’s largest. They regularly advise large clients on international investment, banking and finance.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. Pacific Place, Suite 505 – 507, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 2350 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 24 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services which combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

J&P LAW LLC Room 1204B, Floor 12, Tower B, Handi Resco Tower 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3724 5201 www.jnplaw.com This Korean law firm offers international legal services and has additional branches in Ho Chi Minh City, Beijing and Ulaanbaatar. The Vietnam offices provide high-quality legal services in English, Korean, and Vietnamese across all sectors of business law.

LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE CITY OF HANOI 35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 3835 3548 The Lawyer’s Association is a collective

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business

destination

of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in many fields. They can provide legal and representation services.

particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)

RMIT

Room 317, 3rd Floor, VCCI Building, 9 Dao Duy Anh, Cau Giay Tel: 3577 0479 www.iprights.com Rouse is an international intellectual property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi we advise on protection and enforcement of trade marks, patents, copyright and domain names; commercial IP, IP management/strategy.

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3726 1460 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and longterm courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

RUSSIN & VECCHI 11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet Tel: 3825 1700 A financial law firm which focuses on commercial and investment matters for corporate clients. In some cases they can provide assistance to individual clients.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM 193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 7596 www.britishuniversity.edu.vn The first university offering prestigious UK degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in 2010 include International Business Administration, Banking & Finance, Accounting & Finance, Marketing Management, Accounting & Business. Pre-university courses are also available.

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: 3762 3805 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the

HANOI WEBSITES HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

INFOSHAREHANOI.COM Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

LINKHANOI.COM Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.

NEWHANOIAN.COM The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides user-generated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

WORDHANOI.COM The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more. Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

68 | The Word November 2011

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com www.cimigo.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4661 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina. Focus is on developing partnerships that leverage their market knowledge and on enhancing their client’s competitive position in the region.

THE NIELSEN COMPANY 3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 1161 www.nielsen.com Media company offering integrated marketing and media measurement information and analytics. Offers full service capability across qualitative, quantitative, media and retail measurement for FMCGs, consumer products, finance, telecoms and more.

VINALINK 59 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 4206 1773 www.vinalink.com Specialising in online survey-based market research, Vinalink is a subcontractor for a few global market research firms, including CALEB Global and Pulse Group.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MEDIA ONE Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3247 4028 www.media-one.vn PR company with offices both in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on the Telecom and IT industries, providing a range of services including events, product activation, consulting, marketing and advertising.

TQPR Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward, Ba Dinh. Tel: 32474 028 www.tqpr.com One in a group of companies from Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the company offers international standard consultancy services and value-added results to local, regional and global clients.

VENUS COMMUNICATIONS 4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7066 Well-known PR and communications company with offices in both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full range of PR, advertising and consultancy services.

RECRUITMENT & HR AON VIETNAM LIMITED 14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0832 www.aon.com/vietnam Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other things, Aon now concentrates on human capital consulting, assisting their clients with compensation, benefit analyses and outsourcing.

HR2B Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat Linh, Dong Da Tel: 3736 6843 www.hr2b.com The forte of this company is placing highly talented Vietnamese and expat candidates into executive positions at medium to large companies. Rapidly growing, in the past years they’ve added Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their client list.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 4574 www.manpower.com.vn Established in Vietnam at the beginning of 2008, Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 3033 www.navigosgroup.com Adept at solving human resource challenges through excellence in matching and management talent. Has offices in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 8 Cat Linh, Dong Da. Tel: 6275 2824 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem. Tel: 3768 5882 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption to family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES 3rd & 4th Floor, 75 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6741 www.crownrelo.com Offering both family and corporate relocation services locally and internationally, Crown prides themselves on being a kidfriendly company.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3826 0334 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and

local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

RESIDENT VIETNAM 3A, Alley 49, Huynh Thuc, Dong Da Tel: 3773 7191 www.residentvietnam.com Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam was the first dedicated Expatriate Service Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam provides full relocation and immigration management services to several multinational companies in Vietnam and ser vices the Global Mobility industry.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0908 096222 sales@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. We are proud to be the only moving company with both ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 www.atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5831 Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort. Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 8877 http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

MAYFAIR 34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0030 www.mayfair-hanoi.com A building with a great location, and some of the largest apartments you’ll find. The Mayfair is popular among the diplomatic and international business communities.

SEDONA SUITES No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 0888 www.sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 2342 www.somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

OCEAN BEACH RESORT

$$$ www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn This resort is on a private island just off of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will get you a comfortable room in a bungalow close to the beach. Fee also includes the boat ride from Cat Ba. For more information check on the web.

Destination Listings DALAT 069 DANANG 069 HALONG & CAT BA 069 HAI PHONG 069 HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 069 HANOI - MID - RANGE 071 HANOI - BUDGET 071 HO CHI MINH CITY 071 HOI AN & DANANG 072 HUE 072 MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 073 NAM DINH & NINH BINH 073

NHA TRANG 073 NORTH-EAST 073 NORTH-WEST 074 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 074 PHU QUOC 074 SAPA 074 TAM DAO 074 TRAVEL SERVICES 074

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and modern amenities, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa, and prices to match. CREDIT

DREAMS HOTEL $ 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private place has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from $10 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

PEACE HOTEL $ 39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846009 Found just outside Halong City on Bai Chay beach, this is clean, honest accommodation for a reasonable price. Located on “Hotel Alley”, there are a lot of options here. The rooms are fairly well looked after and clean. You can usually get one for under VND400,000, but prices vary depending on the season.

ARTICES DESTINATION ZERO 070

DALAT

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 You get door-to-door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic hotel, but it’s right in the middle of town.

DANANG DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800 With six different styles of villa units that offer views of the ocean, the mountains and a green of a golf course, the Danang Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious places to stay in this much overlooked city. The property also offers 33-storey twin towers housing a five-star hotel and golf courses adding up to 36 holes. CREDIT

HALONG & CAT BA BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT $ Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156 Stay in a beachside bungalow or a traditional resort-style hotel on the shores of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situated just up the coast from Halong City. The staff here can help you arrange tours that will offer scenery a bit different than the standard tours of Halong Bay.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES $$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi. CREDIT

HAI PHONG $$ 42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444 bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn One of the best of the town’s best budget hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms come in all shapes and sizes and have satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The front-desk staff speaks English and can help sort out any travel arrangements. Rates from around VND250,000 per night.

HALONG DREAM HOTEL

HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL

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$$$ 8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com One of the many large tower-type hotels in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty much everything you’d expect from a 4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a restaurant that touts its seafood and barbecue.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including a pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

DAEWOO HOTEL

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FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

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$$$$ 66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas, well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes walk from Bai Chay, the property has a resort feel and the rooms are housed in several buildings. If you’re feeling lucky, there’s also a ‘Gaming Club’.

32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 846099 Hai Long Junks is one of the three largest cruise operators in Halong Bay. The company boasts 11 overnight cruise vessels with a total of 160 cabins and 15 traditional junks with capacities from 25-48 passengers each for day trippers, providing cruise services for travelers with a mid-range budget.

HALONG PLAZA

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ROYAL HOTEL

BACH DANG HOTEL

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property. This 24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$ Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899 This is one of the better hotels on Cat Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all the modern conveniences, as well as a restaurant and a popular bar. The front desk can also arrange tailor-made tours around the bay.

HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY

$$$ 10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009 www.halongdreamhotel.com Close to the pier and the new bridge, what this hotel lacks in character is made up for in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184 rooms priced between VND2 million and VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor pool, health club and sauna.

HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

PRINCES HOTEL

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

petitive and it’s possible to request a room with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and a TV start at VND350,000 per night.

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FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com A good alternative to staying at a five-star hotel while you’re in the capital, Fraser Suites offers short-term stays for as little as VND2.5 million a night when they’re having

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$$$ 4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827 www.harbourviewvietnam.com Hai Phong’s most prestigious address, this cool, retro French-colonial style property is the only international standard hotel in town. Designed with panache without being pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit property start at around VND2.5 million.

HUU NGHI HOTEL

$$$ 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Dist, Tel: 3831 3333 fortunahanoi@fortuna.com.vn fortunahotels.com This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

PRICE RANGE BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$ $$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

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$$$ 60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi offers some of the comforts you might miss at the other places. In addition to the clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also has a swimming pool and tennis courts.

MAXIM HOTEL

ABOVE VND3,171,000

$$$$

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ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

$$ 3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540 New and tidy, with cable TV and airconditioning, Maxim is one of the best mini hotels in town. Rooms are small but have good modern conveniences like satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms done in designer tiles. Room rates around VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

MONACO HOTEL

SWIMMING POOL

103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong Tel: 031 374 6468 One of the more modern hotels on Dien Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-

BUSINESS FACILITIES

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM

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destination

DESTINATION ZERO Photos and words by Nick Ross

Take two Eastern Bloc countries from 20 years ago such as Belarus and Vietnam, and then compare them today. The difference is stark. Vietnam has embraced business and market principles, and the annual growth rate in GDP is above 5 percent. English is the second language, there is a growing middle class and investors the world over have turned their eyes towards this rumbustious nation. Belarus, a landlocked country only formed after the Russian invasion of Poland in 1939, has taken a different path and remains true to its Soviet roots. No English is spoken, only Russian. There are few private businesses, few shops and even fewer restaurants. It’s a difference that descends when you cross the border. And yet, for all its lack of worldliness, this Eastern European country has much to commend. Covered in dense forest, the roads here are good. Surprisingly good. First world nation this is not, but you would forgive yourself for being fooled. Enter the centre of the country’s second and once most important city, Grodno (Hrodna), and the place is spotless. The wealth of historic buildings are either partly restored or spotlessly maintained. And those which aren’t, mainly in the city’s old Jewish Quarter, are coming under public scrutiny. The cobbled streets, some over 200 years old, are constantly renovated, and the city’s half wooden, half brick oldest church — apparently the oldest in Eastern Europe — maintains the same outward design features that were installed when it was built in the 12th century. Grodno, unlike its heavily bombed big brother Minsk, was for centuries the most important city in the region. Preservation it seems is top of the agenda.

70 | The Word November 2011

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this fivestar is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area.

Belarus

APPEARANCE, APPEARANCE, APPEARANCE If you search hard you will come across a splattering of restaurants and bars, and even the occasional nightclub. But the average Belarusian can only afford to eat out once a month — a typical two-course, Italian-style meal of pasta or pizza with Slavic-style add-ons like pork, pickles and egg and imported beer costs around BYR50,000 (VND182,500) for two. Although the average GDP per capita is VND121,800,000, for most it’s a step too far. Instead the locals focus their spending and savings on their family first and then their apartment and car. As a result, while the Lenin statues remain, the Ladas, Yugos and Skodas have mostly disappeared and the traditional horse and cart is now the preserve of the countryside. In their place are mainly five to ten-year-old Western European cars and a surprisingly well-dressed, even better starched populous. The women are tall, often over six foot and blonde. The men are rugged but smart. Outward appearance, or at least the show of it, seems high on the agenda here, too.

a promotion. In the West Lake area, you can expect the gold-standard service with a quiet atmosphere and excellent views.

HORISON HOTEL

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$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808 This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the sparkle of a few years ago, but nonetheless has good quality rooms with all the mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent but slightly old gym area and a good outdoor pool.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA

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$$$$ 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE $$$$ 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. CREDIT

MARIGOLD HOTEL

If you do make it to this most unusual yet endearing nation, ignore the niceties of appearance and head to the country’s biggest towns and then the countryside beyond. There is medieval and Baroque architecture mixed with greying apartment blocks at almost every turn, and while the capital Minsk is an obvious destination, also make time for Grodno, Brest and Vitsyebsk. But just make sure you prepare your visa in advance. You’ll need to get sponsored by a travel agency (try belarustravel.by) and pay for your hotel rooms before you arrive. And then you have to hope that the Belarusian Embassy grants you a visa. It may all seem a bit daunting, but providing that your papers are in order, there shouldn’t be an issue. And if it doesn’t work out, refunds are available. Just don’t expect to find a smaller version of modern day Russia. Belarus may have a similar language and use Cyrillic script, and the two countries remain close, but beyond this, it is anything but.

HANOI SPRING HOTEL II

$$$$ 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

$$ 38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500 www.hanoispringhotel.com One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter to have a balcony with each room, this new boutique is middle of the range but feels higher. Run by Australian expats and partners with a wealth of experience in the hotel industry, expect great service. Awesome western breakfasts and Vietnamese lunch and dinners. The top floor honeymoon suite has perfect views of St Josephs Cathedral.

SHERATON

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com www.josephshotel.com Just to the side of St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a well-appointed, comfortable boutique hotel. Brightly decorated, the property’s 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000 a night. No smoking except for on the upstairs balconies.

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$$$$ K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9000, www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI $$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. CREDIT

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI $$$$ 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite. CREDIT

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$$$ 17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com A contemporary boutique hotel a stone’s throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter. Colonial era accents throughout and an oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms and an intimate top class restaurant make this a strong contender in an area with plenty of competition.

MELIA HANOI

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

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$$$$ 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343, www.meliahanoi.com This landmark property has become one of Hanoi’s most popular five-star hotels. Centrally located, with luxurious accommodation, the Melia also has a host of fine dining areas, a swimming pool, a health club and an in-house bar-cumnightclub, Latino. A popular venue for functions, exhibitions and events.

MERCURE HANOI LA GARE $$$ 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 7766 When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am, you will be overjoyed if your bed is just across the street from the station in one of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart hotel. A stone’s throw from both the Old Quarter and the Temple of Literature, Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie, an internal courtyard, a fitness centre and a retail outlet of wine importer and distributor Da Loc. CREDIT

HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND $$$ 38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222 Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem Lake. Built using a blend of western and oriental architecture, the properties have 28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at the Giabao Grand. CREDIT

GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL

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$$ 32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583 www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn The interesting arty decor of this place is a bonus, as is its value for money – it’s not often you pay under VND1 million for a modern hotel room slap bang in the middle of town. Try to get a front room (with balcony) to look out over the bustling Old Quarter. They’ve also opened a second Golden Lotus just down the street at number 39.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake, this boutique hotel is fitted with 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5 million for a suite. CREDIT

MAY DE VILLE

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$$$ 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL $$$ 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs. CREDIT

ZEPHYR

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$$$ 4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1256 www.zephyrhotel.com.vn A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime location, Zephyr offers a range of packages and special offers on rooms that are clean and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee house and restaurant with both Asian and Western Cuisine.

HANOI – BUDGET CAMELLIA HOTEL

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$$ 44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667 www.camellia-hotels.com Basic rooms and friendly service at this well-known hotel. One of six properties of the same name in Hanoi, internet terminals are located in the lobby, and the property also offers a host of tour itineraries. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000 to VND700,000. Some of their other locations are more budget-friendly.

HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style

hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HONG NGOC HOTEL $$$ 34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with small but clean bathrooms, and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available. Some of the locations include sauna, steam bath and fitness facilities

LITTLE HANOI HOTEL

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$ 58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem ,Tel: 3928 8648 www.littlehanoihotel.com Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband connections starting at around VND600,000 a night. The rooms at the front are more expensive, and breakfast is included. The staff speak good English and are very helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in town, two of which are located next to the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh, close to Lenin Park. Check the website for details.

HO CHI MINH CIT Y CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental-saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the best of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well-appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street-level mayhem of the backpacker area.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Big and businesslike, with seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities in the city.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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AIRLINES An Phu

destination INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$ 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Luxury accommodation with a stylish club Lounge boasting panoramic views, as well as the finest meeting and banquet facilities in town – all designed with the savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite. CREDIT

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

AIR ASIA 25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2220 5351 www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 3484 www.airfrance.com.vn

99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

CATHAY PACIFIC

PARK HYATT

AIR MEKONG

AMERICAN AIRLINES

G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7298 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

CHINA AIRLINES 4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 www.china-airlines.com

EVA AIR 2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 1600 www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES 5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6693 www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn

KOREAN AIR 2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3934 7247 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3942 5362 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8820 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 8888 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7921 www.thaiair.com

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6270 0200 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HOI AN & DANANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air-conditioned rooms and pleasant staff.

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a Business Centre, a well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from the city centre and 3 km from the airport.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissancehotels.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus one of the best-regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT

SHERATON

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com True class on an attractive (and historic) street, offering a mix of rooms and suites, top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine which can match anything in the city. Without a doubt one of the nicest places to stay in the city.

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid-range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

NEW WORLD

unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first-class facilities topped by an open-air restaurant 23 floors above the city. The conference and business facilities are

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life-resorts.com Recently refurbished after a recent flood, this award-winning resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre-programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

SUN SPA RESORT

HUE ANA MANDARA HUE

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$$$$ Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam. Tel: 08 6291 3030 sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com www.hotelcollectionindochine.com Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana Mandara is the only beach resort with pool villas in the area. The property has a total of 78 rooms and villas, including beach pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and decor designed with modern facilities. Offers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs and cruises through the local fish farms.

GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN $ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue , Tel: 054 382 6561 An excellent option for those on a tight budget, with a comfortable room plus balcony and satellite TV coming in at around VND200,000. An additional bonus is the pleasantness of the staff.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million ++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la-residence-hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark-stained wood furnishings, this is traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI $$$ Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com If you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional-looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

NGOC BACH

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com This top-end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

MAI CHAU & HOA BINH COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1 $$$ Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990 One of the larger stilt houses in Poom Village, the bamboo floor you can expect to sleep on is more comfortable than you might expect, and this house has a pleasant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the other stilt houses here, drink and dance can be arranged.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh , Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam-aventure.com This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in ten houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7262 This hotel seems to offer bare-bones amenities, but if you don’t fancy sleeping on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this is a couple good steps above, and the rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared for the noise from the karaoke bars which surround the place.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com If real comfort is what you want, this is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The rooms are modern and classy, with room service, sauna and internet connections. The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers a luxury version of the house on stilts. Give a call for exact directions, or you can check their website.

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MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE House 38, Ban Lac Village, Tel: 3938 1443 www.maichaunatureplace.com A perfect mix between a home-stay experience and comfortable hotel. The private rooms are beautifully quaint while the communal sleeping option is more typical of rural lodges. Both options come with modern and clean bathrooms, traditional home-cooked meals, free bicycles and friendly, in-the-know, staff.

$$$$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau Tel: 0218 386 7340 If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this might be your answer. The rooms are large and clean, with a working television and shower with hot water. Might not be the Hilton, but for an aching back it’s a step above a bamboo floor and a mat.

NAM DINH & NINH BINH CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE $$$$ 396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc Tel: 0651 387 9764 Accommodation here is quite basic, but this place offers a good deal in relation to the other places around, if you want a place to sleep before a long day of park touring.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Park accommodation, in modern rooms, stilt houses and detached bungalows, includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms available at park hq, the park centre, and on the road linking the two.

THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE $ 128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 387 1811 Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean rooms that are great value for the money. There is an in-house restaurant that will make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 for a double deluxe room. The staff speak very good English.

THUY ANH HOTEL $$ 55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 387 1602 This hotel is slightly more expensive than its neighbors, but the reason is apparent once you walk in. The rooms in the newer building are especially nice and, together with the better than decent restaurant downstairs, this one can make for a good stop over.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandaranhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private

beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa-style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang and the down-to-earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-HideawayNinh-Van-Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at VND15 million++ for a beach pool villa.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 www.novotel-nhatrang.com This stylish four-star hotel is centrally located on the main street of the resort city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern rooms, each with terrace and a stunning sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room catering for up to 200 delegates. CREDIT

SAO MAI HOTEL 99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 7412 Try to get a seaview room with private balcony at this friendly and very cheap hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace. Rooms have basic but adequate facilities and it is well located.

SUNRISE BEACH RESORT $$$ 12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre and right across from the beach is well geared up for the family and business CREDIT

trade, with kids’ room, beach recreation, restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, sky bar and a Qi spa.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. Onsite seafood restaurant and bar.

NORTH-EAST BANG GIANG HOTEL $ 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang Tel: 026 385 3431 A large, government-run hotel popular with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized, with big windows and some even have views. They also take credit cards, which might not be expected here. Room rates are around VND400,000.

HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL $ 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son Tel: 025 387 0349 This place offers basic accommodation at a good price. Don’t expect too much, but as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen will definitely do.

HOANG SON HAI 57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son Tel: 025 371 0479 Although it may be a bit hard to communicate with the staff if you’re Vietnamese isn’t up to snuff, they are eager to help. The rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.

HUY HOAN HOTEL

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$ 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang Tel: 0219 386 1288 The large, comfortable sleeping quarters here may come as a surprise in these parts. But these are the things that have made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour groups use the place as a stopover, and the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.

SAO MAI HOTEL $ Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang Tel: 0219 386 3019 One of the first guesthouses you see as you arrive in town, location has made this guesthouse a popular stop off point. The sleeping accommodations are clean and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good night’s sleep and shower.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub-VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

PILGRIMAGE VILLAGE - BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA CREDIT

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH CREDIT

Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Pull up some (private) beach and relax, at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

$$$$ 130 Minh Mang, Hue Tel: 054 388 5461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com A collection of rustic villas located in the countryside close to Hue and its historical landmarks. Villas range from the traditional Vietnamese pool house to the family bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking classes, makes tour arrangements and has an on-site spa.

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THANH LOAN HOTEL

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

$ V159 Vuon Cam, Cao Bang Tel: 026 385 7026 Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more attention paid to the details. Still, expect basic accommodation, but, all said, a good bargain.

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in Vietnam, the Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and a 24-hour butler service, this is one of the most luxurious resorts in the country. Definitely one of the most exclusive.

THAI NGUYEN HOTEL 2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen Tel: 0280 385 2803 Your standard two-star establishment, Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one of the only) choices in the vicinity. It’s quite a large hotel considering its location, so booking shouldn’t be a problem.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ 2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau Tel: 0231 387 5829 Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms with air conditioning, some of them with balconies. Take a look at the rooms before you rent as the quality may vary.

$$$ Tel: 062 743 237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach, with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and dining options.

KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU

THE SAILING CLUB

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NORTH-WEST HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE

$$ 849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 382 5103 Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made for sleeping and not much else, but at good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are acceptable and about average for this type of establishment. CREDIT

MUONG THANH HOTEL $$ 25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu Tel: 0230 381 0043 This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style that makes it one of the most visited. So, despite its size, it may be a good idea to book in advance. There’s a charge for the swimming pool, even if you’re staying there. But, hey, there’s a pool. The rooms are better than average and have satellite TV. CREDIT

SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL $$ 4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La Tel: 022 385 5313 The explanation of the name is a mystery, but with 100 rooms it could probably house a mid-size union. Not the cheapest place in town, but the rooms are extra large and fairly well-kept. If you want to spend some time with satellite television, this is your place. Price range is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast included. CREDIT

SUNRISE HOTEL $ 53 Duong 26 – 8, Son La Tel: 022 385 8798 Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the road, the rooms are very clean and the staff helpful. A night here will run around VND400,000.

PHAN THIET / MUI NE BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim-up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar. One of the better appointed resorts in the area. CREDIT

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SAPA

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and has recently done some refurbishment. Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and, of course, sailing.

PHU QUOC CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla-resort.com Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first-class spa treatment and a mediterranean-themed restaurant. CREDIT

AUBERGE HOTEL $ 7 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 1243 Despite being in the centre of town, some of the back rooms offer nice views. There is also a good French-style restaurant downstairs, which is what you might expect considering the décor and name. Prices vary, but a room should generally cost around VND400,000.

BAMBOO HOTEL $$ 18 Muong Hoa (Pho Cau May), Sapa Tel: 020 387 1075 One of the best things about the Bamboo Hotel is the view, so make sure you check out the room first – some are better than others. There is aircon if needed, but you might want to ask for extra blankets in winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms here are between VND700,000 and VND1 million a night. The premium here is on the views.

CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT $ Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: 020 3872 130 www.hmongmountainretreat.com A large stilt house, five clay-clad bungalows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is what waits for you amid the rolling hills of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The ecoresort’s team are all local and will help you enjoy the surroundings of the Muong Hoa Valley.

SAPA ROOMS

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645 (Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, La Veranda has beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all-natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

$$ 18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa Tel: 020 6505 228 www.saparooms.com Located in the heart of Sapa town this simple but comfortable boutique hotel occupies an unprecedented corner location overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa and not far from the energy of the local market. Rooms are decorated with antique hardwood furniture and contemporary artwork from local artists with touches of ethnic minority culture.

MANGO BAY

TOPAS ECOLODGE

LA VERANDA

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and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

TAM DAO GREEN WORLD HOTEL $ Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao Tel: 0211 382 4315 A big new hotel, Green World has 100 rooms ranging in price from VND400,000 to VND600,000 a night. Because of its height, the top rooms have nice views of the town and surroundings. There is a restaurant and bar with billiards, and internet in the lobby.

HANG KHONG HOTEL $ Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao Tel: 0211 382 4208 Another one of the newer hotels in Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right, hovering around VND500,000. Many of the rooms have balconies, but all have comfortable beds and hot showers.

HUONG LIEN HOTEL $ Khu I Thi, Tam Dao Tel: 0211 382 4282 Just your basic hotel, but if what you want is a bed and satellite television, this is your place. Can’t beat the price at around VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are subject to change.

MELA HOTEL $$ Thi Tran, Tam Dao Tel: 0211 382 4321 Probably the prime place to stay in Tam Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that might come in handy if you’re in the mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi summer. Rooms are comfortable and clean, with two double beds and balcony. The staff can assist if you want to explore the natural surroundings. Prices between VND800,000 and VND1.6 million.

and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations.

EXOTISSIMO

HG TRAVEL

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 5555 Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 3728 2735 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

FREEWHEELIN TOURS 2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2743 www.freewheelin-tours.com Responsible travel tourism company offering intimate, bespoke tours that give customers a more “authentic” taste of Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays, visits to ethnic minority villages, national parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery are all part of the mix, with part of the proceeds going to a number of responsible tourism initiatives.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in smallgroup tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa - www.kenyaairways.com), American Airlines (www. aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy. com).

INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to

Vietnam's people, cuisine, history and culture.

BIKE RENTALS

JEWEL OF THE DELTA Tel: 01282 471716 booking@jewelofthedelta.com A cruise boat on the Red River offering cocktail and party cruises every week with free snacks, a free cocktail and free shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private cruises are available for parties, meetings, receptions, and dinners for groups or organisations. A unique place to chill out.

LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD 5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 4120 www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com Vietnam’s First Luxury Tour Company, offers you carefree luxury travel so you and your family can focus on the fun, not the details. Challenge your skills at the country’s most spectacular golf courses. Soak up the sun while being soothed by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for high-fashion couture in the most elegant cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation experience you want; name it, we deliver

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL 106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912 094464

QUAN’S MOTORBIKE & BICYCLE RENTALS 70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 244941

Standard rental shop doing hire by the day and by the month.

VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURES 36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley in between No. 34 & No. 36) Tel: 3904 5049

Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic and manual bikes plus repairs.

VIP BIKE RENTALS 64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street, close to Sofitel Plaza) Tel: 0914 931390

Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation. Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.

TRAVEL SERVICES AIR MEKONG 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 37186 399 www.airmekong.com.vn With presence in eight different cities including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam. It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic alternative to the time-consuming train and bus combo.

ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY CREDIT

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around. Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up excellent food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas-eco-lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

VICTORIA SAPA

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow-style resort, which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid-back and simple. And cheap.

$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from $135 to $250 per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court

CREDIT

Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 9343 0888 Founded in 1998, the travel company caters to both corporate and international travel. Services include ticketing, hotel reservation, travel insurance, transfer and visa arrangement. Outbound tours and packages throughout the world are also available.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures

The Word November 2011 | 75

out & about

Out & About Listings bar & nightclubs 076 cafes 077 restaurants - french 078 restaurants - indian 072 restaurants - international 079

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MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 6822 5pm to 12am Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino bands who never shy away from a good Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little pricey, but part of the money is going to the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and the band will take requests, but 1980s rock tunes are favoured.

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CLASSIC FRENCH Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 7am to 10pm Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar space with dark wooden plank flooring, bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and handheld fan crafted ceiling fans, both during the day and at night there is a relaxed, timeless ambience here. The drinks focus here is on Martini-based and classic cocktails with a huge wine list and aged spirits also making an appearance. Also a great place for a morning or afternoon coffee.

Bar Betta

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DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 4926 2177 6pm to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter to dance it up at on the weekends or on a weekday. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart topping hits and classic hip hop makes Dragonfly a must for anyone looking to shake it up. If you don't feel like dancing, relax with shisha and friends in one of the two lounges on the second floor.

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POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB 55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem 8am to midnight A potential gem in the heart of the Old

76 | The Word November 2011

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REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem 5pm to late With a reggae theme, the French-run Roots stays open late playing African and Caribbean music with some salsa thrown in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A good, late-night, Old Quarter option set on a first floor. The entrance is next to the Irish Wolfhound.

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INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0936 063303 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

embassy-type street, the sound of motorbikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D pictures on the walls of each floor take you back to the old city, before KFC and Parkson. Even to times before the French.

Avalon Café

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WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE 2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3939 3477 9am to 1am The ambience at the relaxed wine bar near the Metropole screams red wine — the walls are painted a warm yellow, the exposed brick adds a touch of cool and the wine barrels-turned-tables are tasteful. Too bad it’s often awkwardly empty. Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnamese and international snacks.

cafes Align 3D

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POPULAR VIETNAMESE 1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh 7am to 11pm Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align cafes are always busy. The younger venue on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo alley and has three outdoor seating areas, one of which makes you feel like you’re sat under a waterfall. The other two are on the roof, and from the middle of this

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LAKE VIEW LOUNGE 73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 0801. www.avaloncafelounge.com 7am to 11.30pm Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake, this lounge and bar is always busy. With comfy seating and balconies, the lounge and sky garden offer a pleasant escape from city-centre chaos. The smoothies are creamy and renditions of popular street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas cost around VND100,000 and steak in red wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic pop instrumentals play by day, and come night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly with electro pop.

Ciao Café

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RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

Cong Caphe

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LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communist-driven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

Espressamente Illy

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ITALIAN COFFEE 75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2065 8am to 11pm International standard, Italian-style espresso drinks are the name of the game at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop. Boasting a wide range of drinks, including spirit coffees with tequila, and a small selection of pastries and panini sandwiches, the café’s clientele is a mix of tourists and Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau da. It is connected to a tour agency and in the central hub of the Old Quarter.

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LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this barcum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3050 6pm to 5am This small and personal one-and-a-half floor bar starts to get busy at around 11pm and is popular with expats of all nationalities, despite having a French flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but nonetheless continues to pull in the punters. Open very, very late.

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Meet-up spot 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6917 www.taytap.com Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

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BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB 61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0915 381180 qbuphanoi@gmail.com A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked away in the corner where Luong Ngoc Quyen meets Hang Giay. It’s a laser, mirrors and disco ball affair with high tables, hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ — usually playing a mixture of trance and house. Runs a number of spirits offers on different days of the week. Ask for details.

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LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959 A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

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European brew hall 10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 2288 Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell has an old Europe feel — particularly in the private rooms lined with glass beer mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture and semi-circular booths. With the UNmeeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples, an assortment of cheeses and several other options. Perfect location for big gatherings.

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ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB 51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem 6pm to late Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/ trance den. Throw shapes on either of the two floors that have regular DJs while dancing to rapacious electronic beats or enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on a kebab as you catch up with all of the city's regular night owls. The terrace out back has great views of Long Bien Bridge at night.

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DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6675 7908 7pm to 2am A relative newcomer and an instant favourite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a good choice for late night fun. The long, thin establishment is a bar out front with decks and some tiles out back – usually hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials most days and is guaranteed to be crammed at the weekend. Popular among locals, expats and tourists.

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CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough money then you probably won't be sticking around to see the honeys.

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Laid-back fix 2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0917 897630 A curving neon sign marks the small entrance to May Pub, which stands on the corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau. The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere with old Hollywood photographs, free billiards and darts and low-key live music. The menu combines traditional cocktails with offerings like Russian string cheese — a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday and Friday nights are Buy One Get One Free for ladies.

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LIQUOR LOUNGE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine

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LOUNGE AND BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 3104 5am to 2am One of the few staple bars in the city that hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky, slightly ethnic decor and one of the most amiable owners in town, Mao's is always a great place to start off or finish the night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome at one of the most popular drinking spots on Ta Hien.

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STAGE AND TABLE CLUB 32 Le Thai To, Tel: 3828 8806 8pm to 11.45pm Just a few yards from the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon of a nightclub seems more at home in Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs, go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to ‘dance’ around a table, if you’re willing, while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle service in the heart of the city. AC

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LATE NIGHT LOCAL 9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0914 339439 lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn 9am to late This quirky bar and living room gets busiest in the later hours. Down in the bar, plasma screens and an iPod station mix with a dance floor and comically named cocktails. Upstairs, there’s a cushioned living room — a pleasant space with a low ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard, “sell and swap” book shelves, Jenga and some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can be hours of fun. The dried buffalo “nosh” from Tay Bac in the north is a must.

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LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 01887 487 426 www.hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, English-style pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

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Hanoi Rock City

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WIFI

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laid-back lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DELIVERY WIFI

RETRO CAFÉ BAR 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 9134 haimtc@gmail.com 8am to midnight This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech moped it’s named after. Inside every surface is festooned with a medley of objects ranging from gramaphones to retro TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome place for a sundowner or a morning coffee. Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.

Cheeky Quarter+

SMOKING AC

Half Man Half Noodle

++ AC

WIFI

La Fée Verte+

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it's not. While techno and trance are the genre's of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 2212 6821 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

Quarter. While it’s themed to the Easy Rider vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue is a jack of all trades – it has a bar, live music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP room and a night club with a decent sound set up. Ideal for private functions and party promoters. Club stays open till late.

HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR

Irish Wolfhound

restaurants - italian 080 restaurants - japanese & korean 081 restaurants - southeast asian 081 restaurants - vietnamese 081 restobars 082

Bars & Nightclubs

May Pub

liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

+ WIFI

SMOKING

DELIVERY

DELIVERY 2

HAPPY HOUR

LIVE MUSIC

CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 7984 7.30am to 11pm Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th floor and emerge onto a balcony with one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The big draw to this café is the vantage point — the drinks are a secondary concern, though there is about every coffee and juice concoction known to mankind on the menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie options too. Graze on French fries, sandwiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice plates. Perfect for watching the city wake up or catching a sunset.

Highlands Coffee

AC AC

++ WIFIWIFI

SMOKING SMOKING

DELIVERY DELIVERY

DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 2 HAPPY HAPPY HOUR HOUR LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC

LIVELIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0444 www.highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts selfreplication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere.

The Word November 2011 | 77

out & about It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88 54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071 www.joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of “home” to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counterstyle service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a play area for kids up in the West Lake café and bakery.

KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, home-cooked food, no frills-but-relaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

LA PLACE CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE 6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 5859 7.30am to 10pm This tall, narrow lounge café with rooftop seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot. The decoration is bright and casual and the all-day menu has food from both the east and the west. Draw with crayons on brown paper covering the tables as you while away the hours over coffee or cocktails, and take in the view of St. Joseph’s Cathedral. Has some interesting food options including spinach fried rice along with old standbys like tuna salad sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No MSG is used here.

MOCA CAFE CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 6334 moca@netnam.vn 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

NOLA CAFE CONTEMPORARY / RETRO CAFE 89 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 4346 8535 10am to midnight Step into a narrow alleyway and into an alternative world of winding staircases, comfortable couches, whimsical umbrellas and cozy nooks. The menu here caters to big breakfast lovers and those seeking a hideaway to nuzzle a lover. The oatmeal is unparalleled in Hanoi, as is the homemade granola. Mega egg entrees and luscious pancakes round out the breakfast menu, but food is served all day and the mixed menu of western and Vietnamese dishes means there is something for everyone.

OCHAO TEAHOUSE TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 01887 785977 ochaoteahouse@gmail.com 8am to 10pm

78 | The Word November 2011

out & about A stylish, two-storey traditional but contemporary tea house with great views of West Lake. Specialises in “precious” Vietnamese tea from the northern hills, handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and presented to the public by a passionate French owner. Well worth your time hanging out here on a lazy day.

PANACEA CAFE MUSIC CAFE 25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0909 061982 panaceacafe@yahoo.com 8am to late Slightly rough around the edges and with an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place that welcomes all comers. There’s live music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat), but it’s not uncommon to find someone strumming away at the piano here at any time of the day. Friendly staff, good coffee, juices and cold beers.

PARIS DELI CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger café-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

SEGAFREDO ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476 www.segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world's greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

STOP CAFÉ FRENCH DELI 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s not-so-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specializes in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFE 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu). Tel: 3928 7715 www.thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm

Small and cozy café and sandwich bar hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. But worth the search. It serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. Outdoor seating area upstairs, sofas, books and a speaker set up, too. Also has an excellent delivery service — perfect for lunches in the office.

THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: 6276 1004. www.coffeebean.com 8.30am to 9.30pm Known for the quality of its coffee and tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has landed in Hanoi — in the form of an air-con, westernstyle drinking space in Hanoi’s newest shopping mall. The five first coffee shops in Vietnam started in Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in the capital. Hanoians are finally able to taste the beverages already quenching the thirst in 20 countries across the planet. New stores to open on West Lake soon.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

RESTAURANTS - FRENCH MID-RANGE CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 1327. www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisianstyled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

MID TO TOP GREEN TANGERINE 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

TOP-END CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 7207 11am to 11pm This Parisian eatery with high ceilings is imbued with a laid back feel that comes with wooden furnishings and a nice bar. The venue serves up traditional French dishes and boasts an exquisite rooftop terrace on Hanoi’s pub street that is home to fewer bars and more and more cafes. The place is owned and operated in cooperation with its neighbor, Stop Café.

LA BADIANE 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317 www.verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital. The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

SATINE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 satine@hoteldelopera.com 6pm to 10.30pm Designed for strictly dinner only indulgence, the opulent Satine provides diners the option of ordering a la carte or from one of the venue’s 12-course menus. Lavish design, royal-styled chairs and tables, three private dining rooms and the option of dining in a glass-covered courtyard are all part of the mix, with the cuisine prepared by executive chef Ms. Frédérique Nguyen.

RESTAURANTS - INDIAN MID-RANGE FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959 foodshop45@yahoo.com 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN 78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm India Palace is the fourth member of owner Ravi Kumar’s family of restaurants which includes Tandoor. The menu takes the cuisine of North India and combines

it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to create a pan-Indian menu appealing to all. Occupying a large four-storey villa with unobstructed views of West Lake at the front, the décor here is traditional yet contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with sweeping views over West Lake is given up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant selling mainly South Indian fare.

KHAZAANA INDIAN/HALAL 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657 www.khaazana.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompasses the entire subcontinent, complete with heavier chicken korma and northern curry dishes alongside lighter southern dosas and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit harsh, but with quintessential masala tea, naan and raita to round out the meal, the focus here is on the food and filling your belly… or overfilling, as is more likely the case. All cuisine here is halal.

NAMASTE HANOI 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400 www.namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

TANDOOR 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359 tandoor@hn.vnn.vn 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indian-food enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

BRITANNIA FISH & CHIPS 15 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6694 If you want a product closest to quintessential British fish and chips, then your best option by an arm and many a leg is Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock may have been switched for basa and sea bass, but everything else is authentic, from the beer batter and mushy peas through to the newspaper wrapping, Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy, upstairs two-room dining area.

CHEZ XUAN OPEN AIR EATING 41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho. Tel: 0915 085305 Though it’s a bit far from the centre, the expansive wooded area, chilled out atmosphere and good food makes it worth a visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If you’re in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself a plate of meat and seafood or choose from the gourmet selection of strip loin, ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop grills. Regularly holds live music events.

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448 www.hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000 and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET KITCHEN CAFÉ 129 MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools. Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

TRIEU PHUONG HONG KONG CANTONESE/DIM SUM 317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327 9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm One of the most underrated Chinese restaurants in the city, the place itself is not much to look at, but they serve above average dim sum. A variety of other Cantonese style dishes including noodle soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all at very affordable prices.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322 www.alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothiestyle drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337 www.koto.com.au All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

LA RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this

Made in Chile. Alcohol content 13.5%

Love what you do and do what you love to do Dine in or Takeaway, Artful Catering, Delicious Food, Fun Events, Professional & Warm Service, Weekend Brunches, Gourmet Set Lunches and Dinners

16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Tel: 04 3719 2828 or 0913 001 359 Email: Donchef@donviet.vn www.donviet.vn

The Word November 2011 | 79

out & about homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANNEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052 lasalsa@fpt.vn 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.

LE MARRAKECH MORROCAN 88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3710 0389 10am to 11pm. Closed Monday Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a charming terrace-fronted house close to the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab dishes made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients, all cooked up by a Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.

LITTLE HANOI VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist Tel: 38285 333. littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn 7:30am - 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

MATCHBOX INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3098 tmbhanoi@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

PROVECHO TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0912 223966 provechohanoi@gmail.com The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SPOON ASIAN FUSION 15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3823 5636 6.30am to 10pm An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle store, the restaurant and lounge bar at Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting that screams homeliness and style. Asian dishes, seafood and steaks are among the go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.

80 | The Word November 2011

out & about TAMARIND CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 0580 tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

Vietnamese and international offerings is just a stone’s throw from the Opera House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea. Expect about VND1 million for a set topend six-course meal and VND600,000 for the more downscale five-course offering.

LE PETITE BRUXELLES

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3726 4782 www.thebistro.com.vn A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

BELGIAN / EUROPEAN 1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769 10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853 www.le-petit-bruxelles.com 10am to 10pm An airy and spacious long-running Belgian-themed eatery with a location by the cathedral and a second out in West Lake. Although this is not the place to wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval with moules frites on a daily basis — the mussels are only available seasonally — a number of other traditional Belgian dishes fill the menu including carbonade, jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice environment.

THE HOUSE

TOP END

THE BISTRO

FUSION FARE / WINE 10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611 hoangcuongfb@gmail.com The House, once Annie’s Corner, is one of the latest restaurants to occupy an old French building in the quiet streets nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with international twists. The affordable and eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a decent wine list and an ideal bring-your-own VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle of wine.

MID TO TOP GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9916 www.greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 8388 www.alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight The newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes — lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” — but fine imported steaks can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325 www.alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight With attentive service, tasty food and large portions, this place has something for everyone and has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. Also has a large and spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

LA CANTINE INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897 www.lacantine.vn 6am to 11.30pm Converted from a wing of an old church, this upscale restaurant with extensive

CAFÉ LAUTREC MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555. cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 3719 www.donviet.vn Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lake-facing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3946 0121. www.halia.com.sg 11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A panEuropean classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 4801. www.nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, barebrick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined

ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 0888. www.hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-ofthe-month party.

RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN MID-RANGE

Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 5959. www.zpizza.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm Californian pizza chain in the now open in West Lake. — currently the only place to eat from this American pizza brand in Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its 100 percent certified organic wheat dough and different dishes found nowhere else, like the strawberry and goat’s cheese salad. Also serves up curry chicken sandwiches and meatball penne pasta.

TOP-END ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn't mean that prices here are off limits — take a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++. Nick Ross

RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN

DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 8585 1443 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3823 73338 lunadautunno@gmail.com 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6288 leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

PANE E VINO

ZPIZZA

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 38269 080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

GIM BAB KOREAN 50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3201 2989 One of the longest running Koreans in town, this down-to-earth eatery just off Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nation’s version of sushi rolls. These can be ordered either plain or deep-fried. Other Korean fare includes bibimbab and a range of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought to your low tables with floor seating and in typical Korean fashion, all meals are served with free side dishes (banchan) of kim chi, pickles and eggplant.

KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience. Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

IZAKAYA YANCHA JAPANESE BBQ 121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3974 8437 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Just a stone’s throw from Ky Y, this Osakabased chain does the same cuisine, but entirely differently. The small plates on the large menu are best shared among a group and with bottles of beer or sake. The tofu in amber sauce will leave you licking the plate and the chicken with udon and vegetables is off-the-charts delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of okra or bacon are also great, but more as a snack than anything else.

SAIGON SAKURA TRADITIONAL JAPANESE 17 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 7565 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm This Japanese eatery might be easy to walk past without noticing, but venture inside and you will find a small but neat interior. The food ranges from traditional Japanese to dishes that lean towards fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared with other Japanese establishments.

RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET NISA MALAYSIAN / HALAL 32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 1859 www.nisa-restaurant.com 10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian restaurant with affable staff and authentic cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredients means that these days the menu is limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style counter in the downstairs space and photos on the wall of other classic Malaysian fare allows customers to choose what to eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes good, too.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR 3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 8588 baanthai95@hotmail.com 10am to 10pm This venue serves arguably the best Thai food in the city. With Thai owners and staff from the country’s Isaan region in the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy staples that come from the northeastern provinces in the country. After a meal in the more traditional ground floor space, relax in the comfortable furnishings of the venue’s chic first-floor lounge.

RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH CUON PHU LY BANH CUON 39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem 6am to 3pm Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for barbecued pork and bacon. The street side, flaking paint wall location may be off putting for some, but the fare tastes great.

BANH XEO SAI GON BANH XEO / BUN BO 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 01296 290015 12pm to 11pm A recently opened slither of an eatery selling — wait for it — a Hanoi version of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a bit of a mouthful but worth it — for all its augmentations the banh xeo (beef, beansprout and egg pancakes) served up for self rolling with rice paper and fresh herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo.

BUN BO HUE BUN BO HUE 36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung 7am to 4pm This is the second branch of the ninemonth-old restaurant on Food Street. Like the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more restaurant than street-side affair, the new location serves up the same staples from further south including bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty and cheap

BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO 67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 0701 7am to 11pm Dressed up like an indoor version of a streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny bun bo restaurant is famed not only for its northern interpretation of a southern dish that you can't buy in the south, but also for its ga tan (stewed marinated chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts, white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, is one of the better versions available in the city. And the beef is excellent.

BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5022 10am to 7pm With the help of over 40 years of customer loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas press, Dac Kim has become the powerhouse of eateries serving up bun cha (white rice noodles with barbecued pork and herbs). The formula is simple. The mini pork patties are perfectly rounded, the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the portions are humongous. If you're feeling ravenous, the servings here will fill that merry gap, but if you want quality over quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.

CHICKEN STREET BBQ STAPLES Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Perhaps the most well known street food Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked with BBQ chicken joints from north to south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance, the food stalls boast proper chairs, while the venues at the opposite end offer stools and host much larger crowds. No trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is complete without a trip to Chicken Street. Honey grilled banh my and potatoes provide vegetarians with savory alternatives.

COM CHAY NANG TAM VEGAN 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4140 9am to 9pm The set meals for one person or a group of six people make this a popular lunchtime eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao to this casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. Everything on the menu is vegetarian, from standard tofu with tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat dishes. The walls are moldy but the food is fresh.

COM GA HOI AN HOI AN CUISINE 1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 3856 7am to 11pm A four-storey restaurant and café specialising in food from the centre of Vietnam — or, as the name suggests, the ancient town of Hoi An. It serves everything from the famous cao lau noodles and my quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral staircase, a second floor terrace and pictures of the ancient town top it all off.

DAC SAN HUE HUE CUISINE 150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da. Tel: 6674 7917 6.30am to 10pm A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just opposite the Temple of Literature. Specialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo and banh khoai, all at local prices. The staff is friendly and helpful and the bun bo Hue is spot on.

DUONG SOM CHAO CA FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA 213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3829 5281 Serves perhaps some of the best chao ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish is garnished with a healthy amount of fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of banh quay – the Chinese style fried bread. The fish is boneless, which helps set this place apart from others selling the same dish. One bowl is VND30,000.

too, and diners can order chicken on the bone or off and can even get an extra egg added to the soup for good measure.

PHO CUON STRIP PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE 71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh 9am to midnight For a dish purported to be invented by French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenomenal how this wet rice paper filled with beef and herbs affair has so quickly been absorbed into the street food fold. Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach — a row of five street-side eateries that also sell standard, quan nhau meat and seafood fare. There is also another strip of joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.

QUAN 32 PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO 32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem 5.30am to 11pm A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old street corner eatery also lauded for its tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple, typically Hanoian streetside affair here with red plastic tables on the street and foot-high stools. The soup comes with an accompanying basket of slightly stale but buttery banh quay.

QUAN 49 PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 6am to 4pm A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a tasty version of the sweet and sour bun bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles). Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up, filling meal. Also does decent pho ga (chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafestyle space out back.

TRUC LAM TROI VEGAN 39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 6278 1848 7am to 9pm Vegetarians delight in being able to order anything off this more-creativethan-normal traditional Vietnamese Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet street. Corn juice is the drink of choice here, as everyone around sips the tepid yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu vegetable dishes makes you reconsider vegan cuisine as “health food.” Order an office lunch plate or dine in during the weekend surrounded by families and walls adorned with traditional Buddhist imagery.

WHITE CLOUD VEGAN Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 1622 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm Simplicity is the key at this small but airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in Vietnam — the cuisine here doesn’t only focus on faux meat imitation — the menu mixes canh (broth) with a range of light dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a selection of tofu and gluten-inspired mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike.

MID-RANGE

MAI ANH

CHA CA LA VONG

PHO GA 32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3943 8492 5am to 4pm Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery serves up some seriously wholesome pho ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic, shared table indoor environment. The secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded chicken stock consomme. Portions are big,

CHA CA 14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 3929 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm A funky wooden-floored two storey, onedish-only eatery on a street devoted to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is straightforward. The butter-coated,

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out & about pre-marinated fish is sauteed with dill and spring onions on the table and served up with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and fresh herbs. It's not street food prices cheap by any means, but it's darned tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.

CHIM SAO TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3976 0633 Situated in a turn-of-the-century French townhouse in a tucked away alley, the ‘whistling bird’ continues to offer some of the best ‘traditional’ Vietnamese food in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless this eatery serves up simple Vietnamese staples that are well executed and presented in a setting that makes one feel like a regal Hanoian.

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 3 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 4200 10am-12am Always busy, often hectic, this multifloored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor. It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

KITI RESTAURANT VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 38 Hang Hom. Tel: 3928 7241 An unassuming establishment that rarely fills up, which means that customers often benefit from better service and the servers utmost attention. What the restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with a large menu that is chalked full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare and some western staples.

NGOC HIEU STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES 52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3978 2251 7am to 10.30pm Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle eatery packs no punches when it comes to getting your beef. Get the standard banh my affair and the imported US steak is doled up with meatballs, fried egg, chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran Duy Hung.

NHA HANG NGON CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 6133 ngonhanoi@vnn.vn 7am to 10pm Large and always busy restaurant set in two colonial buildings. The courtyard is filled with tables and fairy light covered trees, which are circled by 18 cooking stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese classics from all over the country a la carte style. Good for street side classics done well in the comfort of an airy restaurant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch and dinner.

OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 1355 9096 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-

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leisure & arts your-own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

QUAN AN NGON CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 8162 sales@ngonhanoi.com 7am to 9.30pm Long-time favourite serving up Vietnamese classics in a large French villa and courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of street-food options and higher end dishes from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and the array of options makes it perfect for newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order loads and share, of course.

the sharpness of some street foods, but definitely for those who have guests in town or business clients to schmooze. Quite an experience. Nick Ross

RESTOBARS +

DALUVA

MID TO TOP

CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831 www.daluva.com A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

AU LAC HOUSE

DERRY'S

INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE 13 Tran Hung Dao. Tel: 3933 3533 Set in converted colonial villas and frequented primarily by travelers that unload in front of the establishment on massive tour buses, this venue is imbued with the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu filled with Vietnamese favourites and much more.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL PAN-VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3972 8001 clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm Indochine elegance mixes with top-end culinary flair to create one of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine dining it isn't — this country's cuisine doesn't really lend itself to that type of cooking. But quality ingredients and a twist of creativity makes the fare here well worth the higher price tag — think creative spring rolls and lobster cooked up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just the start. Also has a great downstairs lounge bar.

SOFTWATER VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 2260 8968 10am-10pm Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden with trees almost 300 years old, a beautiful lawn area and contemporary Asian-influenced international fare make up the mix at this quite unique top-end restaurant. The cuisine and drinks don’t come cheap, but then establishments such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both an international and a Vietnamese menu and is located by the river in An Duong at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel Plaza.

IRISH / WESTERN / ASIAN 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3715 0614 derryspub@gmail.com 3pm to midnight A multi-storey Singaporean-Vietnamese run Irish joint with all the Celtic accoutrements and drinks — think Guinness, Jameson's and Bushmills. Located on the lake, the venue also has an international food menu which takes in anything from Irish beef stew through to fish head curry, beef rendang, tom yam soup and more. Has a solid local following and amiable know-your-name owners.

ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh. Tel: 0976 751331 www.etehanoi.com 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL The Clubhouse, Ciputra. Tel: 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. +

of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

LE PUB BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 2104 www.lepub.org 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events. Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

OLA DE TAPAS

SPANISH 26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 8585 2563 9am to 11pm Nestled just off the main Old Quarter drag, this bar and restaurant daubed in the colours of the Spanish flag is the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in town. Sells a range of fare from paella through to tapas, a selection of tortilla and Spanish mains, and also serves lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish tempanillos and reds make up the enigmatic mix.

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3946 1901 therooftop@vnn.vn 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking. Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

SANDBOX

TRUNG DUONG

JASPA’S LOUNGE

VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 10am to 10pm There are two of these restaurants in Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the location of probably the best seafood in the country. Every type of ocean-breathing animal is available here in addition to an array of tofu and vegetables. From crab to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of this seafood harks from down south or Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so that every day is a banquet and you can pick your poisons from the tank.

INTERNATIONAL 23C Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6555 www.alfrescosgroup.com 9.30am to midnight Formerly known as Jo Jo’s, this miniscule yet attractive space is first and foremost a wine bar serving up tasty, western-style fusion cuisine in an elegant, subtly lit setting. Black sofa chairs line the interior, providing the perfect place to park up and chow down. Part of the Al Fresco’s Group.

INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3927 5708 5.30pm to midnight Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi artists and is best experienced on the nights with live music. The menu offerings are rich and robust, from chicken curry to spaghetti and roast duck, all created to pair well with wine. Come for dinner and stay for the live jazz and well-curated wine selection.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

SOUTHGATE

WILD LOTUS CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 www.wildlotus.com.vn 10.30am to 10.30pm One of the city’s most popular Vietnamese restaurants is a delight from the entrance inwards. Walk over water features and 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into subdued lighting, warm colours and a menu that mixes subtle, well-executed Asian flavours. Not for those who love

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, airconditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3398 1979 www.southgatehanoi.com An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

Leisure & Arts Listings AMUSEMENT 083 BOOKS SHOPS 083 CINEMAS 083 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 083 COOKING CLASSES 083 DANCING 083 FITNESS 083 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 083 GALLERIES 084 GOLF COURSES 084 MASSAGE 084 HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 085 KIDS 086

LEISURE GENERAL 086 NAILS 086 PERFORMING ARTS 086 SPAS 086 SPORTS CLASSES 087 TENNIS 087 VIETNAMESE CLASSES 087 ARTS CLASSES 087 ARTICLES MEDICAL BUFF 084 MUSIC BUFF 085 CINEMA BUFF 086 BOOK BUFF 087

CINEMAS

AMUSEMENT BINGO CAFÉ 57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho A proper two-floor pool hall with a restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty of tables in good condition, great for a night out.

COSMOS 168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da This bowling alley may be small, but if you’re hankering for a night at the lanes, this one has instant replay cameras that will show your strike again in slow motion.

HANOI STAR BOWL 2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da Tel: 3574 1614 Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours add to the festive feel. A game will cost VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe rental. All in all it makes for a night of good fun.

QUAN TOM 89 Bui Thi Xuan Tel: 3294 47844 The staff at this karaoke bar is quite friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and – their claim to fame – a vast English language track list, makes for a good night.

BOOK SHOPS BOOKWORM 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

HIEU SACH THANG LONG 55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 7043 A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese material, but there is also a selection of French and English books and even some literature.

XUNHASABA 32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 4068 Often referred to just as ‘The Foreign Language Bookstore’, you’ll find a decent selection of both books and magazines. Their biggest section is composed of ESL materials, but you will also find fiction.

CINEMATHEQUE 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

MEGASTAR Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 3333 www.megastarmedia.net Inside Vincom towers, this big, westernstyle multiplex shows some of the latest English language and Asian foreign films. The experience includes fairly wellstocked concession stands, comfortable seats, air conditioning and a booming sound system.

NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE 87 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: 3514 2278 Cineplex with several smaller theaters and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap, especially matinees. Be sure to ask if the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or dubbed.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES DEMOCRATS ABROAD – VIETNAM www.democratsabroad.org Affiliated with the American Democratic Party, like-minded and politically active individuals can stay in touch and continue to affect the political winds that are blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for every major election cycle.

AMERICAN CLUB 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 1850 www.americanclubhanoi.com A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public. Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 The exclusive social and fitness club is located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers hit balls into the lake from the driving range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view from the pool. The gym is small and classes are not included as part of the steep yearly membership fees.

L’ESPACE

ELITE FITNESS

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 2164 www.ambafrance-vn.org The cultural arm of the French Embassy is very active in the cultural life of the city. They both organise and host many functions – music, performing arts, film. Large French language library as well as classes and workshops.

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6281 www.elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE

FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0088. www.hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250 This beautiful hotel has a swimming pool for VND40,000 per day, and another VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pantaloons. It might be a good idea to go during the off hours, as it’s a well used pool. But if laps are what you want, the pool is large and, at times, quiet.

HIDDEN HANOI

HANOI FITNESS

137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 0577 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location. Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 3747 0377 www.koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

DANCING ASPARA DANCE STUDIO 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 7916 Located in the same building as Hidden Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance studio. Will provide instruction in everything from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and bachata.

ROCKIT FITNESS Tel: 0126 6257214 yurymiankovich@gmail.com Yury is an internationally certified personal and group exercise specialist who teaches at the gyms and provides individual trainings. Offers a good work out that incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae and African tribal movements. For Further info contact Yury directly through email or by telephone.

FITNESS CLUB OLYMPIA 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049 For a monthly fee of VND170,000 you can have access to all of this well-equipped health club. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, weight lifting area, tread mills and everything else you might expect to find for a full work out, even if it doesn’t have all the privacy in the changing and showering areas you might be used to. Equipment could do with an upgrade, though. Also offers aerobics classes.

Tel: 01256 898069 www.hanoifitness.com Hanoi Fitness is run by Henrik Olofssen, a young Swedish personal trainer. No gym, no workout space, just call and make an appointment for a personal fitness routine designed around your personal needs.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 475 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 01267 239974 (Arnaud), www.k1-factory. com Already with a well-known sister fitness factory in Saigon, K1 specialises in mixed martial arts and fight training and private fitness conditioning in a location overlooking the south end of Ho Tay. Run by Frenchman Arnaud Le Pont, disciplines trained at this centre include Thai boxing, Brazilian JJB, grappling, wrestling, kick boxing and English-style boxing.

NSHAPE FITNESS 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da Tel: 6266 0495 www.nshapefitness.vn This gym with American Life Fitness cardio and weight machines, provides a clean, uncrowded environment and expertly staffed facilities with a selection of fitness classes for its members. Classes include boxing, yoga and groupX with both Vietnamese and foreign fitness trainers on hand to give exercisers advice. Membership starts from VND1.5 million per month with no joining fee.

STAR FITNESS 4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem Tel: 3787 5353 This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh offers massage rooms, steam rooms, saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym areas, exercise studios, locker rooms, and a swimming pool. It is a great option for residents living on the outskirts of the city.

SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB 19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3971 3888 Very good equipment in this small gym, housed in a little hotel. None of the extra frills that you might expect at a larger place, but all the machines are running and well maintained. Monthly price of membership for non-guests is about VND1.4 million.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com Hanoi Capitals don’t play. This football club is serious about their sport. The uniforms and attitudes alone tell you they’re no Bad News Bears. If you want to let your skills shine get in contact with Ricky at 0903 413339.

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leisure & arts HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ The biggest youth football league in the capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come together to play regular tournaments.

MEDICAL BUFF Diabetes

VIET CELTS www.vietcelts.com The first and only Gaelic Football league in Hanoi has recently added a women’s team. The teams play in the Southeast Asia Gaelic League as well as in tournaments all over the region. Bring a sporting spirit as a spectator or a player. Call Gareth for more information: 0904 228629.

VIETNAM SWANS

In honor of World Diabetes Day, celebrating the discovery of Insulin (Nov. 14), Dr WB McNaull, Medical Director at the Family Medical Practice, gives you the lowdown on Type Two diabetes, which is becoming an increasingly common disease in Vietnam — especially with the rise of affluence QUICK FACTS: Diabetes is a major cause of heart disease and stroke. The risk of stroke is two to four times higher for people with diabetes, and the death rate from heart disease is two to four times higher for people with diabetes than for people without. Diabetes is the leading cause of kidney failure, non-traumatic lower-limb amputations, and new cases of blindness among adults in the US. In western societies about eight percent of the population has diabetes already, and it’s mainly Type Two. DEFINITION: Type Two diabetes, once known as adult-onset or noninsulindependent diabetes, is a chronic condition that affects the way your body metabolizes sugar, your body's main source of fuel. With Type Two diabetes, your body either resists the effects of insulin — a hormone that regulates the movement of sugar into your cells — or doesn't produce enough insulin to maintain a normal glucose level. Untreated, Type Two diabetes can be life threatening. Principal risk factors for the development of Type Two diabetes: • Being overweight — the more fatty tissue you have, the more resistant your cells become to insulin • Inactivity — of course, physical activity helps you control your weight, uses up glucose as energy and makes your cells more sensitive to insulin • Family history — the risk of Type Two diabetes increases if your parents or siblings have it • Age — the risk increases as you get older, especially after 45 Principal symptoms may develop very slowly. In fact, you can have Type Two diabetes for years and not even know it. Look for: • Increased thirst and frequent urination • Increased hunger • Weight loss (despite increased appetite) • Fatigue • Blurred vision

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www.vietnamswans.com In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans footballers hold not only weekly matches and training sessions, but social and drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as much with fun as with winning, this club is welcoming to anyone who is willing to have a good time.

GALLERIES

• Slow-healing sores or frequent infections Diabetes can be diagnosed with the glycated hemoglobin (HBA1C) test that indicates your average blood sugar level for the past two to three months — an HBA1C level of 6.5 percent or higher on two separate tests indicates you have diabetes.

APRICOT GALLERY

THERE ARE FIVE PRINCIPAL LONG TERM GOALS INVOLVED IN GOOD DIABETIC CONTROL AND TREATMENT: Commitment to managing your diabetes — learn all you can about it. Make healthy eating and physical activity part of your daily routine. Establish a relationship with a doctor and ask your Type Two diabetes treatment team for help when you need it Blood sugar monitoring — understand how your blood sugar level changes in response to food intake, physical activity, medications, illness, stress and alcohol. For women, hormone levels fluctuate during the menstrual cycle. So can blood sugar levels — particularly in the week before menstruation Healthy eating — contrary to popular perception, there's no diabetes diet; you won't be restricted to a lifetime of boring, bland foods. Instead, you'll need plenty of fruits, vegetables and whole grains. These foods are high in nutrition and low in fat and calories Physical activity — choose activities you enjoy but make physical activity part of your daily routine. Aim for at least 30 minutes of aerobic exercise most days of the week Diabetes medications and insulin therapy — some people who have Type Two diabetes can manage their blood sugar with diet and exercise alone, but many need diabetes medications (e.g. Metformin or one of the insulin stimulators such as glipizide or glyburide) or even insulin therapy Above all take control of your illness and learn what factors affect your blood sugar.

ART VIETNAM

40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8965 www.apricot-artvietnam.com This centrally located space houses art by some of Vietnam’s best-known contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and coming artists. 7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3927 2349 www.artvietnamgallery.com One of Vietnam’s best known and respected galleries, features contemporary Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture, painting, lacquer, photography and video, from both up-and-coming and wellestablished artists. Check their website for a list of exhibitions and events.

BUI GALLERY 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8595 www.thebuigallery.com Housed in a picturesque French colonial villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi's newest and boldest modern art galleries. Features cutting-edge contemporary art from Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US and Europe.

HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY GALLERY 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 7192 www.hanoi-artgallery.com This art space is home to a large collection of your standard tourist fare along with a smatter of more unique pieces.

MAI GALLERY 113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0568 www.maigallery-vietnam.com Several floors of paintings, regularly changed, by some of the best known contemporary artists in the country, some of whom they’ve helped in gaining international recognition. Mai specialises is finding the perfect décor for both homes and offices.

MAISON DES ARTS 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3747 8096 www.maisondesartshanoi.com A gallery near the Temple of Literature with several floors bills itself not only as an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions feature both Vietnamese and international artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,

also involves herself in several other cultural projects around Hanoi.

RED RIVER GALLERY 7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 9071 www.redriverartvietnam.com This small gallery has focused on building a collection of traditional Hanoi images with a modern twist since it opened in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out talented young contemporary artists.

SUFFUSIVE GALLERY 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem www.suffusiveart.com Don’t be fooled by the signs hawking café sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop interior is a small gallery showing some of Vietnam’s newest talent.

pregnancy massages all given by the hands and touch of nine visually impaired therapists. The massages here are professional and, of course, in aid of a great cause. Check their website for their range of promotions.

MUSIC BUFF

BY DEBBIE CLARE

HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE 14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3945 4548 www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hospital, the therapists at this no frills, traditional Vietnamese massage centre use a variety of techniques including tuina, aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu. Also offer a range of healing treatments as well as not-so-traditional laser and plastic surgery.

THANH GIA

TADIOTO 113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above the bar and café on the ground floor. A thoughtful space containing rare works by serious artists questioning quick development or changes in societal norms. Hosts frequent literary and musical events, along with presentations of artwork that differs from what’s available elsewhere in Hanoi.

VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY 96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6667 www.vietfinearts.com If you’re looking for a well-known name, and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine Arts sells work by some of Hanoi’s more famous artists.

54 TRADITIONS GALLERY 30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3715 0194 www.54traditions.com.vn The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on the antiques, artifacts and art of Vietnam’s 53 minority groups and the Kinh majority people. Has over 1,000 items on display and objects in the collection have been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi and abroad.

GOLF COURSES

18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem One of a number of foot massage parlours in town that has treatments focusing as much on the pressure points of your feet at they do on the rest of your body. Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you ask, tiger balm oil.

HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

FRANGIPANI SPA 405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 6329 2915 www.frangipani.com.vn New garden-themed day spa named after the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam for its healing properties. Services include hair salon, nail care and massages. Details to amenities like bathrobes, slippers and towels provide a comfortable atmosphere.

HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE

TA SALON

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3623 8115 A fitness club that also boasts a two-level driving range where the balls are hit into the water. No net means you can gauge your driving. The price for a bucket of golf balls depends on whether or not you’re a member.

Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra). Hotline: 0912 267613 Multi-functional hair and body salon with a range of treatments running from haircut, highlights, shampoo, straightening and perm to hot stone foot and body massages, a range of facials, waxing, bikini lines and body scrub. With a first salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the Hanoi club. Popular with both western and Asian expats as well as A-class Vietnamese.

LANG HA DRIVING RANGE 6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh Tel: 3835 0909 The driving range has two levels and a netted area to catch the balls. Although the facilities might not be up to country club standards, it is in a relatively convenient location. One can either pay a monthly membership fee of around VND2 million, or pay by the ball as you go.

TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT www.tamdaogolf.com Relatively new golf club near the base of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about two hours from the city, but does provide an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and a spectacular view, surrounded by green hills.

MASSAGE JUST MASSAGE 237 Au Co, Tay Ho Tel: 6671 2249 www.justmassage.org.vn Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and

THE HAIR WORKSHOP 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 5980 Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Workshop has a number of hairdressers used to cutting and styling all types of hair. The prices are significantly higher than they would be on the street, or at a smaller shop, but there are many people who refuse to go anywhere else. A full service salon that also offers such services as waxing.

HAIR SPACE 137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 127554 Run by an Australian expat named Cat, this is a small but comfortable and well-run hair studio located in the Hidden Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her one assistant, so be sure to make an appointment.

Band of the month, venue of the month and what’s hot on the line up for November. It’s all there BAND: GOOD MOUTH FEEL Hanoi has given birth to a brilliant new live act, and if you haven't already checked them out, now is the time to do so. Good Mouth Feel mix blues, folk, rock and grunge without making it sound rubbish. Fronted by a clear contender for the World Beard and Moustache Championships™ and with a brilliant lass on drums, this noisy fourpiece is proving to be one of the busiest bands in the city. With support from Synergy and a growing fan-base, the band has progressed from its roots as an acoustic duo and grown into a fully plugged-in, (almost) all-singing and (nearly) all-dancing outfit. Check the Good Mouth Feel Facebook page to find out when Christophe, Luke, Sarah and Kyle will next be performing. If you love live music and you want to rock out, you won't be disappointed. VENUE: POLYGON MUSIK CAFE Reminiscent of a smoky, late eighties Soho function room, Polygon Musik Cafe is a brilliant venue for live rock music. It’s never too loud, rarely poorly attended and very much a hidden gem in Hanoi’s selection of venues. The owners are incredibly informed about the rock scene in Vietnam and if you have a penchant for metal or indie you can go along on a specific night to hear your preferred brand of rock. The sound quality in here is great considering the venue's shape and size, and there are plenty of bar stools for those of us who prefer our rock seated. The standard of guest vocalists is high and house-band Firebird is very well regarded within the Vietnamese community. Tuesday is all about

alternative rock with R.E.D, Wednesdays are for classic rock with Freebirds, Friday is hard rock and heavy metal night with Nevermind, and Saturdays are for love songs with Twilight. For those who like rock un-smoked, Saturdays at Polygon are a strictly non-smoking affair. All shows are free entry. Polygon Musik Cafe is at 67A Nui Truc. EVENTS IN NOVEMBER Written in 1893, and his final completed masterpiece, Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 6 Pathétique will be performed at Hanoi Opera House on Sunday Nov. 7 — in a collaboration between the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra and the Tokyo Metropolitan Symphony Orchestra. The piece was nearly entirely destroyed by Tchaikovsky when his depression and general dark demeanour were fuelled by accusations about his apparent inability to create. He tore up the work but later returned to it and performed it for the first time just nine days before his death. This will be a great opportunity to hear the piece performed by two highly acclaimed orchestras. Tickets start at VND150,000 and can be bought at www.ticketvn. com, which delivers straight to your front door. Citing influences such as Gainsbourg, Cohen and Rimbaud, Kad Achouri is a Cannes-award winning, UK-based performer, who subtly mixes his French mother-tongue and SpanishAlgerian ancestry with a unique blend of poetry, jazz and electronic music. Hailed as 'a hip-hop powered Manu Chao' by BBC Music and with

notable collaborations with the likes of Natasha Atlas and Vanessa Mae, Achouri will be performing at 6pm on Nov. 15 at L’Espace. Tickets start at a mere VND35,000. Check myspace.com/ kadachouri for sound clips. There’s more on offer from L’Espace in the form of Triphase — a threepiece ensemble comparable to the likes of Swedish pioneers Esbjörn Svensson Trio, and acclaimed US pianist Keith Jarrett. Citing Brazilian, Catalonian and African cultures as their major influences, Anne Paceo (batterie), Leonardo Montana (piano) and Joan Eche-Puig (contrabass) have performed at major festivals worldwide and are coming to Hanoi at 6pm on Nov. 26. Tickets start at VND50,000. Check out annepaceo.com. As part of the annual EU Music Festival, Bristol-based noise-makers Zun Zun Egui will be rolling in to the Youth Theatre, also on Nov. 26. Described as freerange-rock, which somehow melds UK hardcore with bass-heavy dance-floor anthems (confused? I am), the band has been described as ‘strikingly original’ by Mojo magazine, and have been seen working the entire festival network. The U.S. Department of State is hosting a Performing Arts Initiative Project on Nov. 28 and Nov. 29, which will see the return of psychedelic pop act Dengue Fever, who will spend two days in Hanoi delivering master classes culminating in a public performance at Tuoi Tre Theatre on Nov. 29. Dengue Fever is a six-piece band from Los Angeles that combines Cambodian pop music and lyrics with psychedelic rock. Check them out at myspace.com/ denguefevermusic. And finally. On Saturday Dec. 3, C.A.M.A presents Go!Go!Japan! in cooperation with The Japan Foundation at the National Exhibition Centre on Giang Vo. Promoting the rejuvenation of Japan in the aftermath of the earthquake and tsunami, the mini festival features three of Japan’s hottest rock acts — Electric Eel Shock, Molice and The Okamoto’s and, of course, local talent. Debbie has over 10 years experience in the international live music sector as a booking agent, gig promoter and professional vocalist.

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leisure & arts TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION

CINEMA BUFF What’s hot in the theatres this month PUSS IN BOOTS Director: Chris Miller Voices: Antonio Banderas, Salma Hayek and Zach Galifianakis

5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4946 Located near Reunification Park, Hung has a long list of satisfied clients, both western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to allot one to two hours for a cut and more for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.

KIDS HANOI ZOO Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel Tel: 3834 7395 Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you can find Vietnamese families on picnics here on any given day. Strewn throughout, sometimes in curiously small cages, you’ll also find a number of animals large and small, all indigenous to the country. Also, there are other attractions for children such as a fun house, and big, floating plastic balls they can climb into. The One Man Cinema operates out of here at weekends.

THANG LONG WATER PUPPET THEATRE Abandoning any connection to Charles Perrault’s 17th century fable, Puss in Boots tells the story of a cheeky, Zorro-like lark and his life long before he met Shrek. The notorious fighter, lover and outlaw becomes the town hero and earns his boots and the citizen’s respect after saving an old woman from a raging bull. But soon, he is chased out of town for his involvement in a local bank robbery. That’s when the real adventures begin. The film hits screens on Nov. 25 at MegaStar (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung) and Platinum Cineplex (The Garden Shopping Center, Me Tri, Tu Liem)

Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Daily shows of traditional rustic Vietnamese carved puppets, animate folkloric tales accompanied by music. This can be fun for adults as well as children.

VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung There are a bunch of toy stores and shops for children in the mall area of the second tower. Also, near the food court, you’ll find an arcade with video games and tiny rides for very small kids.

LEISURE GENERAL HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

THE TWILIGHT SAGA: THE BREAKING DAWN – PART 1 Directors: Bill Condon Stars: Kristen Stewart, Robert Pattinson and Taylor Lautner Following the three previous films based on Stephanie Meyer's popular book series, Bill Condon’s movie opens with Edward and Bella’s honeymoon in Rio. With the arrival of their first daughter Renesmee, a chain of events breakout that pits them and their allies against the Volturi — the fearsome council of vampire leaders. Released on Nov. 25. Watch it at MegaStar and Platinum Cineplex

THE ADVENTURES OF TINTIN: THE SECRET OF THE UNICORN Director: Steven Spielberg Stars: Jamie Bell, Andy Serkis and Daniel Craig Inspired by the comic character Tintin, this 3D adventure follows Tintin and Captain Haddock as they search for a sunken ship commanded by Haddock’s ancestor. The adventure takes the pair to Atlantis, the Sahara, Morocco and finally back home. Released at Megastar on Nov. 11

www.hanoih3.com This big, assorted “family” gets together every week to go on out of town excursions, for hour-long runs along paths marked by flour spots, and with no lack of beer stops along the way. Drink and get into shape at the same time, and add some sight-seeing into the picture. Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on Saturdays from the American Club on Hai Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm in winter.

HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL www.hanoibaseball.com If you’re looking for a little league baseball team in Hanoi, this is the website to check out. One of the first, if not still the only, such club in town, their mission is to teach young people about the game, teamwork and to have a great time. Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field from 6.15 to 8.30 am

NAILS SCREENING OF THE CANON 48 HOUR FILMS Director: Local and international; amateur and professional Stars: Local actors and actresses More than 40 films produced by Hanoian filmmakers will hit the screen between Nov. 7 and Nov. 9 at 7.30pm. All the four to sevenminute films feature a pre-assigned character, prop and line of dialogue. All film crews developed their own stories, shot, edited and created a musical score to accompany their films within 48 hours. Check out the film list on www.48hourfilm.com/hanoi. The films will be shown on at Megastar. Award-winning films will be shown at an outdoor public screening on Nov. 20 — stay tuned to the website

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FANCY SPA 26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4183 A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices are quite high, but the shop offers a wide range of services in addition to manicure/ pedicure.

LINKQ 271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3725 2359 One of a chain of all-purpose beauty salons that specialises in manicures and pedicures. This place has a lot of business from word of mouth, so it’s best to call ahead and make an appointment.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 www.thucucbeauty.com This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa

pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where your manicurist won’t be chatting on her mobile phone.

TOP SPOT 52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 8344 They offer a long-lasting, professional manicure and pedicure service for barely more than you would pay to get your nails cut on the street. The staff doesn’t speak much English, but they have an extensive menu to choose from.

PERFORMING ARTS HANOI CIRCUS 67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung For VND50,000, see an array of live performances, both human and animal. Bears ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The acrobatic performances are particularly amazing.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) www.hitshanoi.com Hanoi’s premiere community theatre group has been entertaining audiences around the city since 2001. The amateur acting society both draws from and gives back to the local community. All profits from the bi-yearly performances are donated to charities in Vietnam.

HANOI OPERA HOUSE 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 0113 www.ticketvn.com This French colonial building hosts a packed schedule of cultural events throughout the year, everything from the New York Philharmonic to cutting edge Vietnamese performance art has graced its stage.

ORCHIDS SPA 34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4862 www.orchids-spa.com Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner, the unisex Orchids spa recently one a VTV award for being one of the top spas in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials through to waxing, saunas and slimming treatments.

SANTAL SPA 112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4686 Private rooms with showers, a beautifully designed interior, well-trained and professional staff. The place to go if you want to forget a busy work week, or the busy streets.

THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA 57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh Tel: 3715 0316 Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose spa where you can get a full-body massage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in a relaxing environment. Both prices and service are comparable to the West.

ZEN SPA 100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9889 www.zenspa.com.vn Brushing up against the banks of the Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has a range of five-element spa packages as well as just one-off facials and waxings and other treatments. Has a second

SWIMMING POOLS

outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas in Hoi An.

SPORTS CLASSES HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE 59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da Tel: 3511 8030 The distinction of this fitness centre is that they have a large space, filled with a “number of different fields of different sizes”. Includes areas for aerobics, football and rugby. Classes depend, according to the season.

TENNIS THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX 95 Chua Boc, Dong Da A wide sports pitch that also offers a swimming pool and a football field – if you get tired of tennis. Football fields are almost always crowded, but even for tennis it might be good to go during the off hours.

VAN TUE THANG LONG 136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang Long offers quite a bit of room, with a sit-down restaurant and a few tennis courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a place to go if you want to play tennis on concrete courts.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP

25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3665 54608 Head to this theatre, lodged on the campus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum, for a taste of one of Vietnam’s most traditional musical forms.

33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896

164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 7236 9842 www.vietnameseteaching.net Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but also a variety of excursions and events that will help foreigners and expats to better understand Vietnamese culture. Organised and professional, classes are usually sold in blocks, which you pay for in advance.

YOUTH THEATRE 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this community theatre space hosts both music events and theatre productions.

HANOI CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

SPAS KIM DUNG 38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh Tel: 3483 50079 Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedicure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts of comfort services and products. Facilities are clean and modern. Hairstyling also available.

HORISON FITNESS CENTER 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

MELIA HOTEL 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

LANCY SPA

OLYMPIA

35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 9461 This all-purpose spa offers the full menu: massage, nails, skincare at reasonable prices. Discounts offered to regular customers.

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

SAO MAI 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure luxury. Choose the genre of music you want to hear in your treatment room from a menu, select anything from themenamed facials through to traditional, Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge. It comes at price, but when you’ve just got to treat yourself…

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da Tel: 3869 4323 www.vnu.edu.vn/en This national university also offers some language and culture classes to foreigners. Teaching standards are high, and prices are not unreasonable, at around VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.

YOGA & MEDITATION UNESCO YOGA CENTER 3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh Tel: 3913 5497 www.yoga.com.vn One of the only yoga studios in town exclusively devoted to the practice. Professional instruction with well-trained teachers, and a very low monthly fee.

ZENITH YOGA

LE SPA DU METROPOLE SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTER 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

THAN NHAN Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

THANG LOI HOTEL 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

Bookworm’s Truong digs through his library to recommend pages a little closer to home

UN International School, Tay Ho Tel: 3758 1551 www.unishanoi.org The UN International School is located between West Lake and the highway heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have great facilities and offer a number of different classes throughout the year.

ARMY HOTEL

FOUR SEASONS

Four Books in Four Weeks

UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION

THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

BOOK BUFF

3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 0904 356561 www.zenithyogavietnam.com A premier studio offering some of the best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town. Kids’ yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation are also available. Professional instruction along with a peaceful atmosphere creates one of the most zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are available for VND200,000 and a month unlimited class pass costs VND1.8 million.

A NON-FICTION BOOK FIRST PRINTED IN 2008 is back on the shelves in paperback and is a surprising runaway best seller. It’s always been difficult to get authoritative books, in English, about Vietnam’s birds, insects, reptiles and mammals. A Field Guide to the Large Mammals of Vietnam is a godsend for zoologists — professional and amateur. For anyone who wants to know what large animals used to be in the rain forests before extensive clearing took place or before the market for wild animals became so lucrative, it’s a great resource. It’s been researched and compiled by John W K Parr and Hoang Xuan Thuy and has excellent colour plates and habitat maps. Vietnam has/had one of the highest levels of mammal biodiversity in the world, with 310 species and subspecies. Of these, 128 are medium-to-large varieties and, in the past decade, five new species of mammals previously unknown to the world have been discovered. Read all about it. Sticking to a Vietnamese theme, foreign resident, Suzi Garner, has published one of the best little graphic novels cum art books that you’re likely to find. Death In Hanoi follows four monklike figures, lots of whimsical, almost mythological animals, and flocks of birds. The narrative moves through Hanoi’s cityscapes, across Long Bien Bridge, up the Red River and into the mountains. A dead body is delivered back to its homeland and its soul flutters and soars above. It’s a delight from start to finish. The pen and ink wash artwork is outstandingly delicate. The book has a great tactile feel and once you open it you become absorbed in the plot that has hardly a word of text. It can be read on many levels and whatever one you choose, you’ll be enchanted. If I was to purchase one book about Vietnam for someone I really, really liked, then this would be it. It’s in limited supply and will

become a collector’s item. At VND100,000 it’s a steal. And staying with foreign residents, well-known poet, songwriter, musician, artist and singer, Scott Ezell, has released some of his poetry anthologies. When I read Scott’s work I am reminded of Lawrence Ferlingheti, the Beat Poets and in no small degree, of Bob Dylan at his best. In Petroglyph Americana Scott careens across landscapes of the American West and imbues it with a lyricism that echoes with his years spent in Asia. In Songs From a Yahi Bow the poet presents his own poems in an anthology with two others. These works repeat Scott’s pervasive themes of migration, genocide and cultural assimilation. The poems in this anthology resonate too easily in the experiences of ethnic peoples everywhere whose lands have been invaded and their cultures taken from them. Poetry readers will love exploring Scott’s work. A New York Times Notable Book and bestseller, The Book of Salt, is a novel by Monique Truong, a Viet Kieu born in Ho Chi Minh City who is based in New York. The book chronicles the life of Binh, a Vietnamese cook who had the fateful job of being employed to cook for Gertrude Stein and Alice B Toklas in Paris in the 1930s. Binh starts off as a lowly servant in a French-occupied Saigon, travels as a galley hand to Europe and encounters a list of celebrities like Paul Robeson and even the youthful Ho Chi Minh. Anyone who knows anything about the volatile life led by Stein and Toklas, and those who just like reading about history, art and human nature in prose that sparkles will love this. Like good food, it’s addictive. And once you’ve finished it you’ll know why it received nothing but rave reviews upon first release in 2003. Find Truong and his 15,000 books at Bookworm — 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh.

The Word November 2011 | 87

fashion

medical Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a highquality selection of ready-made items. The most popular sellers include robes, linensilk blend shirts, ties and jackets.

Fashion Listings

ISALYNA ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 088 CLOTHING 088 LINGERIE 088 SHOPPING MALLS 088

SPORTSWEAR 089 TAILORS 089 OPTICIANS & GLASSES 089

ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR

THREE TREES

BOO SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147 This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

EURO FASHION SHOES 26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041 While you may have to dig through piles of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.

EURO SHOES 320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem If you’re looking for a diamond in the rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a wide selection of options, many of which you’ll want to give a pass. Often carries larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.

HANDMADE SHOES 18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357 This cobbler’s shop repairs shoes and makes shoes to order. The staff speaks limited English, so it’s best to bring along your favourite pair to get copied.

HUONG’S JEWELLERY SHOP 62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046 A small store specialising in silver necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and pendants. While Huong’s merchandise is mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also make jewellery to order.

IPA-NIMA

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

TINA SPARKLE 17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616 An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry and Chula dresses are scattered among a wide collection of bags by one of Vietnam’s most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.

VIETNAM OPTICAL 138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505 This all-purpose eyewear shop offers free eye exams and a wide selection of frames. Usually there is at least one English-speaking staff present. The quick and easy service means you will be out of the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.

CLOTHING CALVIN KLEIN 19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name then Calvin Klein’s lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn up. Underwear sits next to jeans going for around VND2.5 million and a range of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think relative. VND5 million for an original, welltailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.

COCO SILK 37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535 High-end silk clothing retailer located near the Temple of Literature carries contemporary looks based on traditional Vietnamese styles.

73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000 Started by Hong Kong born designer Christina Yu, Ipa-Nima’s stores are filled with their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories. Their use of colour, a unique design philosophy and hand done embellishments appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are tangibly timeless and sophisticated.

CONTRABAND

KINH MAT HA THANH

EOS FASHION AND DÉCOR

2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556 Large selection of lenses as well as biomedic contact lenses imported from the US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam usually aren’t scratch-resistant.

LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY 21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327 www.londondiamondgallery.com Home to the world’s finest gemstones, master craftsmen and jewellery experts, London Diamond Gallery is among the most established jewellery houses in the world, with an international presence that spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong and South-East Asia.

LOUIS VUITTON Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen Tel: 3824 4977 This boutique offers an exclusive collection of the French designer handbags and accessories.

88 | The Word November 2011

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity. 45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574 The limited stock in this clothing store is made up for by the unique design of the pieces, which are refreshed by the designer every month.

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-to-measure service are available at no extra cost.

HANOI SILK Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel

1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3762 4405 www.isalyna.com The retail outlet for local designer Teddie Tran, who believes that fashion is all about “attitude”. Accordingly, the store’s pieces are mostly basics that can be combined with a range of high-quality leather accessories and jewellery for a unique fashion statement.

KANA 41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6208 Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing and accessories in a wide range of patterns sized to fit western bodies.

KEN SHOP 108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256 A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide range on offer, from casual summer skirts to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys made of cotton and imported jewellry and accessories are also for sale.

KENLY SILK 108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236 www.kenlysilk.com Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared shop front, Kenly prides itself on professional guidance and high-quality materials from a design’s conception to finish. The shop caters to everything from fashion shows to personal designs.

KHAI SILK 133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237 One of the better established silk shops in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets throughout the country, this household name is a great place to go for ready-made silk items. You may find better deals at other shops, but with the highest quality silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.

LUALA BOUTIQUE 61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899 www.luala.vn Close to the Opera House, this “concept store” dressed up as a spacious boutique and café is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-focused end of the local market. Has clothing and accessories for men and women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang, Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much more. Also slated to show contemporary Vietnamese art. Check out their website for latest arrivals and their full range of brands.

MARIE-LINH COUTURE

SONG

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

ZONE GOLF

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965 This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This large shopping centre located at the southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes shopping options for every price range. Bargain bins full of locally-produced clothing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offerings also include a cosmetics department and multiple electronics retailers.

Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3936 3233 This centrally-located shop carries all the equipment and gear you need for a day at the course.

TAN MY

VINCOM TOWERS

66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579 www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn Located in the heart of the old quarter, on “silk street”, Tan My claims to be Hanoi’s oldest silk and embroidery shop and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton. The three-storey shop offers everything from clothes and hand-embroidered baby pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.

TAN MY DESIGN 61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 1154 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

VINATEX 25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex clothing corp. Carries items for men, women and children at low prices.

LINGERIE ANA MAI 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho This small boutique stocks lingerie similar to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur and Cosabella. 52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051 Pretty, lacy underwear imported from France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a western sized medium.

MINOSHE 59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem This popular store carries a wide range of bras and underwear. Additional locations in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.

SHOPPING MALLS HANOI TOWERS

MOON

36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3936 0737 Shopping mall includes international designers such as Versace collection, Dolce and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.

NAGU 20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com Walk past the rows of teddy bears and head for the small rack of clothing, which offers unique Japanese-designed dresses and shirts. The second floor has a selection of home goods. There is a loyalty program for frequent customers.

SPORTSWEAR ADIDAS 83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 7190 www.adidas.com The capital city’s flagship store of the international retailer of sport clothing and equipment.

B.BALL 65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel: 3224 10780 bball.com.vn This hoops-themed store sells balls, basketball shoes and jerseys of the madein-China variety.

HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com A small shop on the first floor of the Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs, balls and clothes.

NIKE Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung www.nike.com With multiple locations open, and more to come, Nike retails high-end sports clothing and accessories, including yoga mats and water bottles.

TOLIA Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Also known as the “Russian shop”, Tolia retails overstock outdoor wear made for export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The North Face and Patagonia.

AUBADE

11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem; 74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Parisian-style clothing combined with quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills. The beautiful clothes are available in silk, organza and linen. Also available for online orders. With the accompanying home décor and accessories shop on 38 Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire life of couture. 111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem This small shop carries handmade embroidered linen and silk clothes that are usually less expensive than those found at the larger stores. The shop owners make most of the clothes themselves, so they will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3974 9999 A shopping plaza offering a range of international brands such as Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.

49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem The retail space on the first floor of this complex includes everything from a golf shop to a hair salon. After shopping you can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands Café or a sandwich at Papa Joe’s.

SUPERMARKETS BIG C SUPERMARKET 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

CITIMART HANOI TOWERS 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

FIVIMART 210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Đuc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

TAILORS CAO MINH TAILORS 250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3939 3594 www.caominh.com Located near Cua Nam street at the western-most end of Hang Bong, this established tailor with over 50 years of experience specialises in quality materials from Italy and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-range suits and shirts for all occasions. The shop is new and the service spot on.

CO 18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9925 Though this tailor offers both men’s and women’s clothing, the well made dresses displayed in the window and the range of bright colours and patterns caters mostly to female tastes. Located in the shadow of the cathedral, it’s a little pricier, but you pay for the view.

NGOC SHOP 64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4747 This English-speaking tailor located near the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a seasonal collection of ready-made designs. The owner will also copy clothing or sew from your own designs. Fabric can be picked out in the shop or you can bring your own.

MS TAM Tel: 0989 098903 With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms Tam works from her home not too far outside of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit to where you live to take measurements and then bring the final clothes back a few days later. She also carries a book of fabric swatches for those who truly want to skip the shopping experience.

THANH HA 114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Located in the heart of the old quarter, this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but a large collection of Vogue pattern books makes communication very easy.

OPTICIANS & GLASSES SUNGLASSES STREET Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem If it’s all in a name, well here its all in a number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not exactly conventional opticians - the rows of shops here do sell frames with lenses and have basic eye-testing services - but if its sunglasses with brand names superglued on top, here is the place.

THU HA KINH THUOC

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3943 4570 Free eye testing in this well-known, German-trained opticians that also doubles up as a medical clinic and pharmacy specialising in eye problems. Sells a range of branded and non-branded spectacles and sunglasses. Located opposite the National Hospital of Ophthalmology.

PARKSON

INTIMEX

VIETNAMOPTICAL

Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da www.parkson.com This Malaysian-owned department store prides itself on making the shopping experience one that is “more exciting and fun”. Unlike many of Hanoi’s retailers, this megastore is also appealing to those who just want to browse. Departments include men’s, women’s and children’s clothing as well as home furnishings.

22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 3736 5505 www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses stores selling a range of branded and Chinese-imported frames starting at VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2 million. The in-store optometrist gives free eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.

OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL

HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

METRO 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

Medical Listings ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE DR. TRAN HUONG 80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907 www.drhuong.tk Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi thanks to his long experience as both a practitioner of traditional Chinese and Western medicine. The clinic treats severe and chronic pain with a variety of drugfree methods, including acupuncture, acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.

YAKUSHI CENTER Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971 The centre offers such services as acupuncture, massage and traditional Chinese medicine. One of their specialties is the hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qualified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a clean and relaxing environment and takes a holistic approach to health, designed to take care of both body and mind.

COSMETICS PARKSON Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da One of the newer malls in the city, Malaysian-owned Parkson offers international name brand cosmetics. For those days when you feel like treating yourself, do your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.

TRANG TIEN PLAZA 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Stop here for everything from moisturizer to lipstick before heading upstairs to continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind, imported cosmetics don’t come cheap.

COUNSELLING INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: 3934 0666 www.internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours) www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

COSMETIC SURGERY NEW LIFE CLINIC 6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa, Nhan Chinh, Tel: 6261 6166 www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic that offers cosmetic dental work, skin treatments and minor cosmetic surgery. The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at the University of Southern California.

DENTAL AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC 3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da , Tel: 3944 5216 www.nhahoaucchau.com A clinic with modern facilities and internationally trained dentists. The prices here are more than competitive than the other international dental clinics in town.

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL 95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3716 3972 The dental practice is located on the first floor of this well-organised health clinic. The waiting time is short and the doctors competent.

ONE DENTAL CLINIC 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 6168, www.onedentalvietnam.com Dentist Michel Mitre has gathered a loyal following during his 15 years of practicing dentistry in Hanoi and now has his own practice in West Lake. Everything from a regular cleaning to tooth whitening and dental surgery is offered in a calm, relaxed environment.

PEACE DENTAL CLINIC 51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286 www.peaceclinic.biz Established in 2001, it is run by an American dentist named Frederick. The clinic has a number of dentists trained in such places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech Republic – so the doctors are also fluent in many languages.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. This is the place to go when your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you fall down and break a tooth. Competent doctors and fast service.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi Tel: 3710 0555, www.westcoastinternational. The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who share a vision to deliver modern, highlevel dental services throughout Vietnam. From the waiting room to the chair, the clinic is designed to provide the highest quality technology, comfort and afterservice care to patients.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 5222 fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family Medical Practice Hanoi, services include routine newborn and well-child check-ups, updated immunizations and vaccinations, out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMP’s pediatric specialists provide professional consultancy for every milestone in your child’s life, from infancy to adolescence.

FRENCH HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: 3577 1100 This was the first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment. Offers everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff that speak good French and English.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC 1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3934 0666 Well-known medical clinic also known for

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its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

PHARMACIES H CLINIC 24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay Tel: 6251 2835 A clinic with a very large pharmacy that can fill pretty much any prescription you get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medical consultations.

Home Listings BAKERIES 090 CRAFTS 090 FURNITURE 090

BAKERIES

NHA THUA VINH PHUC 625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh While it appears to be your basic street pharmacy, this small shop front stocks some hard-to-find medicine.

SUPPLEMENTS AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS Tel: 3759 2515 www.amevita.com.vn Sells high quality vitamins and supplements imported from the USA including multivitamins, probiotics, joint care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Available online and at select retailers.

ULTIMATE NUTRITION Hotline: 0917 295091 www.allsportvietnam.com Protein supplements, high quality vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and fat loss supplements for those looking for professional sports nutrition to help their exercise or training regime. Call the hotline for free delivery to your home or office.

VETS ANIMAL CARE 16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099 www.phongkhamthuy.com Locally-run clinic specialising in treating cats and dogs as well as providing a range of pet-care accessories, from animal food to clothing, toys and much more.

ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK SERVICES (ASVELIS) 98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 3178 2779 www.asvelis.com English, French and Vietnamesespeaking veterinarian providing a range of medical services as well as grooming, boarding and certification for pet import and export. Also sells a range of pets toys as well as other products.

DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN Tel: 0903 223217 vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected, knowledgeable and, according to the feedback, very funny.

INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY & VETERINARY SERVICES 31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District Tel: 3719 9994 www.vetsinvietnam.com A Vietnamese-owned small-animal veterinary clinic with English-speaking vets. Offers a range of healthcare and laboratory services as well as a selection of products for all animal needs. Products can be ordered online via their website.

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kitchenware and accessories easy. While its stock may not differ from the stores next door, the display is less overwhelming.

DONKEY BAKERY 8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho www.donkey-donuts.com Founded as a donut shop, it now also offers a wide range of German-inspired breads for those who favour nutrition over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies and sandwiches can be ordered online and delivered to your home or office. The bakery employs mostly disabled persons and is dedicated to providing them with high-quality training and care.

KINH DO 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

LE CROISSANT 21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 6707 www.hoasuaschool.com A well established and well respected Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only makes excellent baked goods of all kinds, but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a school for disadvantaged children that teaches them life changing skills.

PARIS DELI 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6697 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

THU HUONG BAKERY 35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh Tel: 3734 3868 A small but popular Vietnamese-style bakery selling all types of sweets and cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also sell baguettes and sliced breads. They also deliver.

CRAFTS CRAFTLINK 43 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: 3843 7710 www.craftlink.com.vn This non-profit organisation helps traditional artisans seek new markets. for sale in the retail space include handmade textiles from the northern provinces.

INDIGENOUS 36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0977 799911 A crafts and home furnishings shop stocked by the Hold The Future organisation, which helps disabled and underprivileged children in Hanoi and northern provinces.

LA CASA

GROCERIES 090 LIQUOR & WINE 091 MARKETS 091

MARIE LINH HOME DECOR 38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0436 www.marie-linh-design.com This newly-opened shop sells specially designed decorative objects in traditional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery in unique styles. It also retails small accessories that are easy to pack in your suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and online.

VIETNAM QUILTS 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3926 4831 Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

FURNITURE BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung This cluster of furniture shops offer lowpriced bamboo products from baskets and desks to drawers.

BELLIZENO 130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh Tel: 3825 1343 The factory location of the Bellizeno bedding company includes a retail space for their high thread count sheets and bedding.

CARPET STREET There are a number of made-to-order carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from roughly number 239 to 299.

CHI VANG 63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 0601 Located near the lake, this store offers a wide range of embroidered bedding and tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the store or hand-embroidered to order.

COTYLEDON 1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7887 This shop stocks high-end duvet and cushion covers, quilts and tableware like runners and placemats.

EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP 35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da This tiny shop carries a small collection of IKEA brand furniture, but can order more from the catalogue.

GRAND BOIS Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This high-end wooden furniture store located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers has offered best-selling designs for a decade. The classic pieces are mostly constructed out of dark wood and are complemented with cream-coloured linen lampshades and cushions.

HANOI MOMENT 101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7170 This shop makes sifting through lacquer

such as foie gras, high-quality meats, pastas and dairy products. Although they specialise in the wholesale market, they occasionally do retail sales.

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 4084 2 Bao Khanh lane, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 9616 www.lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

HUNG LONG MINIMART

MAI LONG

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3510 www.puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 5393 This shop sells material for curtains and window blinds. They make house calls to measure and install.

MAROON 156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 7264 Nestled in the heart of the old quarter, Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up any household: lacquer picture frames, lamps, and silk bedding.

MOSAIQUE 6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 6181 This home furnishings shop specialises in unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pillow covers, but also carries other colorful bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of all purchases.

UMA CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh; 210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 3972 7412 www.uma.vn Designers and retailers within the interior industry, each branch sells trendy furniture for modern living as well as interior design for all types Vietnamese houses.

VELVET UNDERGROUND Tel: 3716 0400 www.velvetunderground.biz This shop offers a range of ready made items, from bedding to hot water bottle covers as well as the option of designing your own item from a choice of fabrics. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff make shopping a pleasure instead of a chore.

GROCERIES AU DELICE 3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung Tel: 3972 0584 www.au-delice-online.com A European style deli and grocery store with all sorts of imported products for your dinner parties or a homesick night in. Their claim is to have the best selection of cheeses in Hanoi.

BETTERDAY 114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6258 3511 Specialising in organic and fair trade coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also offers an array of products for mindful living. Find perfumes and candles by Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly laundry detergent, all natural jams, and virgin coconut oil in this boutique food shop.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS 19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam Tel: 3873 6079 www.classicfinefoods.com The place to go for imported foods

71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 6220 This little store around Westlake has the feeling of one of those small ethnic markets you find in London or New York, but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies and other snacks that may be difficult to find elsewhere in the city.

PUNTO ITALIA

VINE CELLAR DOOR 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 2922 With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a new array of gourmet foods and a deli case with imported meats, cheeses and olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet Market is a good spot to find the perfect bottle and the foods that go well with it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a small café menu from the kitchen of Vine Restaurant.

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

LIQUOR & WINE BACCHUS CORNER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

DA LOC 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 1325 This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

HANOI GOURMET 1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3943 1009 Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

Cook at home with Shahar Lubin

RED APRON 18 Yen The Tel: 3747 4889 15a Ngo Van So Tel: 3943 7226 28 Xuan Dieu Tel: 3719 8337 #6, Lane 1, Au Co Tel: 3718 6271 Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu Tel: 3823 8749 The retail face of wine distributor Celliers d’Asia, this small wine shop is in the French Quarter, adjacent to the Metropole. The focus here is on quality and the portfolio ranges from French to Chilean to the barrage of wines coming from Down Under. Delivery service available.

THE OASIS 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

FOOD BUFF

MARKETS CHO HOM Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung One of the best places in the city to buy fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make clothes? Here you’ll find everything you need, stuff imported and domestic, silk, cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials you might need can be found here.

CHO SINH VIEN Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay The Student Market, across from Hanoi National University, caters to students. Mostly durable goods, clothing and accessories here. As far as style and size of clothes, selection is a bit limited, but if you take your time you may find something worth the trouble. The market, as well as the food stalls surrounding it, are open quite late. Prices are also tailored for the student budget.

DONG XUAN Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem The biggest market of it’s kind in Hanoi, Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any durable good you can think of: from jeans to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The indoor market spills out onto the streets, which can also serve a good place to get a meal pretty much any time.

FLOWER MARKET Au Co, East Side of Street The name can be a little deceptive, since it’s more of a distribution point, where flowers come in to vendors all over the city. Of course you can buy directly from sellers here at a good price, provided you’re up late enough. The other reason to come is for the pho stands. The market begins late at night and continues well past dawn.

Truffles. Foix gras. Caviar. These are words that tickle the culinary minds of many a chef. But I come from somewhat humble origins, and have a frugal streak within me still. Those exquisite ingredients are all fine and good, but there's nothing that excites me more than finding cool new ways of utilising what would often end up in the trash bin. “Scrap cooking,” I call it. This here is a prime example of a dish that came about solely from finding myself with a load of cucumber skins and seeds and thinking of what the hell I could do with them. FETTUCCINE AND CLAMS IN CUCUMBERGIN BROTH Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 500g dry fettuccine 1 large or 2 small cucumbers washed and scrubbed, unpeeled and coarsely chopped 2 shots of gin (the nuances of a fine gin will be lost here, so feel free to use one of the cheaper brands) 50g fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped ½ spoon high quality first press fish sauce 1 spoon lime juice 3 dozen clams, washed 100g butter 2 spoons sliced green onion METHOD: Put the cucumber, gin, ginger, fish sauce and lime juice in a blender and strain. If you have one you can use a

juicer instead of the blender. Put the ginger and cucumber through the juicer and then mix the cucumber juice with fish sauce and lime juice. Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted water. Drain well and toss in a little olive oil (can be done ahead of time — wash pasta in cold water to stop cooking, toss in the oil and store in a fridge for up to three days). Put the cucumber juice and clams in a pot and cover. Cook on a medium flame, shaking occasionally, until the clams open. Toss away any clams that stay closed. Lower the flame and add the butter and green onions. Stir and cook carefully so the sauce doesn't reach a boil and the butter breaks. Taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Warm the pasta, if cold, in hot water, and divide among four shallow bowls. Top with the sauce and the clams. Shahar Lubin has worked as a chef all over the world.

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THAÂNH PHÖË CUÃA

TÒNH

YÏU Sau möåt chuyïën bay thùèng tûâ Haâ Nöåi hay thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh, Paris laâ traåm dûâng chên ngùæn ngaây àûúåc yïu thñch trûúác khi baån ài túái caác nûúác khaác úã Chêu Êu. Nhûng àûâng hi voång tòm thêëy nhûäng cùåp àöi quaá laäng maån àang hön nhau trïn àûúâng phöë. AÃnh vaâ baâi búãi Nick Ross

yá ûác sêu àêåm nhêët cuãa töi vïì Paris laâ trong möåt chuyïën ài “Kinh tïë hoåc” cuãa trûúâng khi töi 18 tuöíi. Chuáng töi nghó taåi gêìn ga Porte de Clitchy vaâ möåt àïm thay vò trúã vïì khaách saån trïn xe buyát, chuáng töi quyïët àõnh ài böå. Con àûúâng àûa chuáng töi ài qua höåp àïm Moulin Rouge úã khu Montmartre vaâ ngûúâi dêîn àûúâng cuãa chuáng töi laâ thêìy Connolly, ngûúâi bõ haå nhuåc vò àaä cöë gùæng thuyïët phuåc vêån àöång viïn sau naây trúã thaânh huyïìn thoaåi John Barnes hoaân thaânh nöët hai nùm hoåc cuãa anh ta thay vò ài theo con àûúâng boáng àaá. Theo sau möåt chuát laâ vúå cuãa thêìy. Böîng nhiïn möåt naâng “bûúám àïm” tiïëp cêån ngûúâi thêìy khöën khöí vaâ cöë keáo öng vaâo taxi. Thêìy chöëng cûå laåi, vaâ nhúâ coá tiïëng heát cuãa baâ vúå cöång vúái viïåc giaânh giêåt

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möåt höìi, khöng coá möåt thaãm kõch naâo xaãy ra. Mùåc duâ töìn taåi caác vêën àïì vïì thanh thiïëu niïn thêët nghiïåp vaâ hay gêy ra caác vuå löån xöån úã caác vuâng lên cêån thaânh phöë, úã Paris nhûäng caãnh tûúång nhû thïë hiïëm khi xaãy ra. Nhûng khi nhûäng viïåc buöìn cûúâi, thêåm chñ laâ gêy hoang mang nhû vêåy hùçn sêu trong àêìu baån thò baån seä chùèng nhúá àûúåc kyã niïåm naâo khaác ngoaâi caái àoá. Tûâ sau lêìn àoá töi àaä trúã laåi Paris hai lêìn nûäa nhûng àïìu trong khoaãng thúâi gian ngùæn nguãi vaâ ngoaâi viïåc bõ möåt chiïëc xe taãi eáp phaãi reä ra khoãi Àaåi löå Peripherique (àûúâng vaânh àai cuãa thaânh phöë), chùèng coá gò àïí thïm vaâo kyá ûác cuãa töi vïì Paris giaâu lõch sûã caã. Töi bûúác ra khoãi ga Gare du Nord vaâo luác mùåt trúâi moåc, khöng hïì chuêín bõ trûúác cho möåt kyâ quan maâ töi sùæp àûúåc thêëy sau möåt chùång bay àïm daâi vaâ möåt chuyïën taâu àïí túái thaânh phöë. Qua caái nhòn àêìu tiïn, Paris thûåc sûå laâm baån choaáng ngúåp búãi kiïën truác cuãa noá. Vaâ trong khöng khñ möåt buöíi saáng súám muâa thu maát meã, àöå êím khaá cao, töi thêëy mònh àang hñt vaâo àöìng thúâi caã caãnh quan vaâ êm thanh cuãa thaânh phöë tuyïåt vúâi naây. Tûâ caác quaán ùn, quaán caâ phï trïn moåi goác phöë àïën vö söë caác khaãi hoaân mön vaâ hïå thöëng taâu àiïån ngêìm tröng nhû ngoùçn ngheâo nhû súåi myâ spaghetti nhûng thuêån tiïån vö cuâng, kiïën truác vaâ cuöåc söëng úã àêy coá gò àoá thêåt àaáng chuá yá.

Yïëu Töë Vûúng Quyïìn Vúái viïåc hai thuã àö tuyïåt vúâi laâ London vaâ Paris caách nhau khöng xa, chó khoaãng hai tiïëng ài taâu nhanh Eurostar, cuäng laâ leä thûúâng tònh nïëu ta coá xu hûúáng so saánh hai thaânh phöë àoá vúái nhau. Vaâ coá leä àoá cuäng laâ àiïìu ta nïn laâm. Trong khi Phaáp vaâ Anh coá chung lõch sûã, ngön ngûä coá àïën 30 phêìn trùm giöëng nhau vaâ hai nïn vùn hoáa vûâa giöëng nhau, vûâa khaác biïåt, hai thaânh phöë lúán nhêët cuãa chuáng cuäng coá nhûäng àiïím khaác nhau qua thúâi gian. AÃnh hûúãng lúán nhêët àïën veã bïì ngoaâi vaâ têm höìn cuãa Paris ngaây nay laâ Baron Haussmann, ngûúâi quêån trûúãng dûúái thúâi Napoleon Àïå Tam, ngûúâi maâ vaâo nhûäng nùm 1850 vaâ 1860 àaä san phùèng nhiïìu phêìn cuãa thaânh phöë, thay thïë chuáng bùçng nhûäng àaåi löå röång, quaãng trûúâng vaâ nhûäng toâa nhaâ cao saáu, baãy têìng vúái lúáp cûãa söí coá cûãa chúáp vaâ nhûäng ban cöng àuác sùæt ngaây nay àaä trúã nïn phöí biïën trong thaânh phöë. London cuäng àaä traãi qua cuöåc caách maång quy hoach àö thõ vaâo thïë kyã 19, nhûng nhûäng quaã bom cuãa thúâi chiïën nhûäng nùm 1940 àaä phaá huãy nhiïìu phêìn cuãa thaânh phöë. Vò thïë trong khi London laâ möåt múá höîn àöån nhûäng phong caách kiïën truác khaác nhau, coá nhûäng caái ûa nhòn vaâ nhûäng caái khöng, úã Paris ngoaåi trûâ quêån Le Marais àûúåc giûä nguyïn vaâ khöng bõ kiïën truác laåi dûúái thúâi Haussmann, phêìn coân laåi cuãa trung têm Paris àïìu mang dêëu êën cao quyá cuãa öng. Noá möåt mùåt àïí laåi êën tûúång quyïën ruä nhûng coá nhiïìu sûå

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ÀIÏÍ M THAM QUAN THAÁP EIFFEL (Ga: Bir-Hakiem) Àuáng laâ àaä quaá phöí biïën vaâ coá phêìn nhaâm chaán, nhûng àûáng dûúái chên thaáp vaâ nhòn lïn kiïën truác cuãa noá, baån seä hiïíu àûúåc taåi sao cöng trònh kiïën truác naây luön daânh àûúác sûå kñnh nïí. Nïëu baån muöën leo lïn àónh thaáp thò chùæc chùæn seä phaãi xïëp haâng daâi àêëy

BAÃO TAÂNG LOUVRE (Ga: Palais-Royale-Museeá du Louvre) Töi àïën vaâo möåt ngaây thûá Ba, àuáng ngaây baão taâng nghïå thuêåt nöíi tiïëng nhêët thïë giúái naây àoáng cûãa. Khöng coá gò ngaåc nhiïn. Nhûng àïí àûúåc ngùæm nhòn naâng Mona Lisa vaâ nhûäng hònh aãnh gúåi nhúá laåi cuöën tiïíu thuyïët Mêåt Maä Da Vinci cuãa Dan Brown, chùæc chùæn baån nïn túái àêy. Àêy laâ möåt baão taâng rêët lúán nïn baån seä moãi chên àêëy nïëu muöën xem têët caã

NHAÂ THÚÂ ÀÛÁC BAÂ (Bïën: Citeá) Toaå laåc trïn möåt hoân àaão úã giûäa söng Seine, nhaâ thúâ Àûác Baâ quaã coá möåt khung caãnh àeåp. Phña trong noá thò thêåm chñ coân êën tûúång hún. Àûâng mong àúåi nhòn thêëy nhûäng thùçng guâ trûâ khi baån traã thïm tiïìn àïí treâo lïn toâa thaáp úã phña trïn

LAÂNG MONTMARTRE (Bïën: Anvers / Abbesse) Ngöi laâng cuä bïn sûúân àöìi vaâ laâ àiïím cao nhêët cuãa Paris nùçm úã ngoaåi ö thaânh

phöë vaâ laâ quï hûúng cuãa Sacreá-Cœur, möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ thúâ êën tûúång nhêët cuãa thaânh phöë vaâ cuäng laâ núi nhûäng hoåa syä nhû Renoir, Degas, Picasso and Toulouse-Lautrec àaä chùæp buát. Vuâng naây traân ngêåp nhûäng con àûúâng uöën khuác traãi àaá cobble, nhûäng tiïåm baánh myâ hay thõt nguöåi truyïìn thöëng, vaâ vúái nhûäng höåp àïm nhû Moulin Rouge úã phña dûúái chên àöìi, töët nhêët laâ baån nïn àïën súám trûúác khi àaám àöng laâm che khuêët têìm mùæt cuãa baån

KHU CHÚÅ PUCES DE ST-OUEN (Bïën: Porte de Clignancourt) Múã cûãa vaâo nhûäng ngaây cuöëi tuêìn, àêy laâ àõa àiïím röång lúán vúái rêët nhiïìu khu chúå nùçm phña ròa thaânh phöë. Baån coá thïí tòm thêëy úã àêy têët caã moåi thûá tûâ àöì cöí cho àïën iPod, nhûäng àöì àaåc truyïìn thöëng hay kïí caã quêìn aáo, nhûäng moán quaâ lûu niïåm cuãa nhûäng böå laåc Chêu Phi hay laâ nhûäng chiïëc thaãm Thöí Nhô Kyâ. Àêy laâ möåt núi baån coá thïí chiïm nghiïåm thûåc sûå cuöåc söëng úã Paris, nhûng haäy lûu yá àïën tuái tiïìn cuãa mònh nûäa nheá.

BAÃO TAÂNG MUSEEÁ DORSAY (Metro: Solferino) Caãi taåo laåi tûâ möåt nhaâ ga cuä nhûng baão taâng naây ngaây nay traân ngêåp nhûäng bûác tranh vaâ taác phêím àiïu khùæc tûâ nhûäng nùm 1848 àïën 1914. Baão taâng naây coân trûng baây nhûäng taác phêím cuãa caác hoåa syä thuöåc trûúâng phaái êën tûúång vaâ hêåu êën tûúång

KHU PHÖË MARAIS (Bïën: St-Paul St-Louis) Ngaây trûúác àêy laâ khu phöë cuãa ngûúâi Do Thaái úã Paris vaâ hiïån giúâ coá vö söë nhûäng baão taâng nùçm úã àêy. Quanh caác con phöë nhoã Rue deá Rosiers vaâ Rue Ste Croiz de la Bretonnerie coá rêët nhiïìu nhûäng cûãa haâng thúâi trang nhoã nhùæn nùçm caånh nhûäng nhaâ haâng Kosher Pizza vaâ nhûäng tiïåm baánh bagel. Nghe coá veã khaá tûúng phaãn nhau. Àêy laâ khu vûåc duy nhêët taåo cho baån caãm giaác giaãi thoaát ra khoãi möi trûúâng àö thõ cuãa Baron Hausmann. Noá thûåc sûå laâ möåt Paris cuãa ngaây xûa, thñch húåp àïí baån ài daåo phöë

ÀAÅI LÖÅ VÔ ÀAÅI (Bïën: Grand-Boulevards) Xêy dûång trïn thaânh luäy cuä cuãa thaânh phöë, Grands Boulevards bao göìm taám con phöë röång traãi daâi theo thïë hònh voâng cung vïì hûúáng àöng. Tûâng möåt thúâi laâ khu phöë xinh xùæn cuãa Paris, nhûäng con àûúâng naây ngaây nay àaä trúã thaânh àiïím mua sùæm gêìn nhêët maâ thaânh phöë coá vúái nhûäng shop haâng hiïåu siïu sang, nhûäng chiïëc tuái haå giaá vaâ nhûäng cûãa haâng lûu niïåm tranh nhau moåc lïn. Raãi raác quanh khu vûåc naây laâ nhûäng kiïën truác voâm hay nhûäng haânh lang àûa baån trúã vïì kyã nguyïn trûúác. Coân úã gêìn nhaâ haát Opeára Garnier laâ nhûäng cûãa haâng baách hoáa nöíi tiïëng Galerie Lafayette vaâ Printemps

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truâng lùåp, àaáng mïën, nhûng laåi bûúác quaá sêu vaâo möåt truyïìn thöëng khùæt khe vaâ yïëu úát, àêìy nhûäng yïëu töë ngaåc nhiïn nhûng laåi coá thïí àoaán trûúác àûúåc. Vaâ têët nhiïn Paris coá caã nhûäng núi traáng lïå nûäa. Ngoaåi trûâ St. Petersburg, Rome vaâ coá leä Istanbul, khöng núi naâo khaác coá nhiïìu caãnh quan lõch sûã nhû úã àêy vaâ coá thïí laâm baån ài hïët tûâ ngûúäng möå naây àïën ngûúäng möå khaác. Haäy quïn ài Thaáp Eiffel àaä trúã nïn quaá nöíi tiïëng vaâ nhaâm chaán, úã àêy hêìu nhû taåi têët caã moåi núi àïìu coá nhûäng àiïìu coá thïí laâm baån kinh ngaåc. Vñ duå nhû Musee dOrsay, möåt nhaâ ga cuä nay àaä àûúåc biïën thaânh möåt trong nhiïìu baão taâng nghïå thuêåt cuãa thaânh phöë. Ài vaâo trong vaâ baån seä àûúåc bao quang búãi vö söë nhûäng hònh àiïu khùæc, dêìu vaâ nhûäng thiïët bõ maáy moác, cuâng vúái nhûäng voâm nhaâ cao àûúåc trang trñ àeåp mùæt. Baão taâng naây, cuâng vúái The Pompidou Centre vúái kiïën truác doâng àûúng àaåi nhûng coá neát hiïån àaåi hún àaä noái lïn têët caã vïì Paris. Trong lêìn töi àïën thùm, hoå àang trûng baây möåt böå sûu têåp nhûäng taác phêím thuöåc trûúâng phaái hêåu êën tûúång búãi Gauguin vaâ Van Gogh cuâng vúái triïín laäm cuãa nhûäng taác phêím thuöåc phong traâo myä thuêåt cuöëi thïë kyã 19, nhûäng taác phêím coá caái tïn àûúåc dõch möåt caách khaá tïå sang tiïëng Anh laâ The Cult of Beauty” (taåm dich: Sûå tön suâng veã àeåp) – noá àûúåc khùèng àõnh àùèng cêëp qua ngön tûâ tiïëng Phaáp nhû “khoaái laåc” vaâ “thúâi àaåi Oscar Wilde”. ÚÃ baão taâng Pompidou hoå àang trûng baây taác phêím cuãa hoåa syä ngûúâi Na Uy Edvard Munch, àûúåc biïët àïën búãi bûác hoåa múái bõ àaánh cùæp cuãa öng ta, The Scream (Tiïëng heát) Trong khi Phaáp àaä thïí hiïån vai troâ cuãa noá trong nhûäng phong traâo nghïå thuêåt gêìn àêy hún, nhûng nhûäng gò àïí laåi tûâ thïë kyã 19 vaâ àêìu thïë kyã 20 vêîn laâ phöí biïën úã àêy. Paris laâ möåt thaânh phöë àûúåc phuá cho möåt lõch sûã giaâu coá vúái quaá khûá haâo huâng vaâ naáo àöång. Tuy nhûäng xu hûúáng thúâi àaåi múái àaä nhanh choáng tiïëp cêån vaâo caác vuâng lên cêån thaânh phöë, vúái nhûäng nhaâ haâng coá phong caách, nhûäng cûãa haâng theo chuöîi bùæt àêìu àûúåc biïët àïën nhiïìu hún, trong

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thaânh phöë, lõch sûã vêîn àïí laåi nhûäng dêëu êën àêåm neát.

Quaá Khûá vaâ Tûúng Lai Vaâo saáng cuöëi cuâng cuãa mònh úã àêy, töi quyïët àõnh ài àïën Puces de Saint-Ouen cöí tñch, khu chúå cuöëi tuêìn nöíi tiïëng nhêët úã Paris. Nùçm úã saát àûúâng vaânh àai cuãa thaânh phöë, mùåc duâ chó mêët möåt chuyïën taâu àiïån ngùæn àïí túái àûúåc, Sai-Ouen nùçm giaáp ranh giûäa cûåc bùæc cuãa thaânh phöë cöí vúái sûå tiïëp cêån cuãa khu àö thõ. Töi àïën túái núi tûâ súám, khi nhûäng ngûúâi baán haâng coân àang sùæp xïëp àïí múã haâng. Trong luác ài daåo quanh khu chúå àaáng trêìm tröì naây, töi khöng khoãi bùn khoùn laâm sao Saint-Ouen coá thïí mang trong mònh möåt thaânh phöë Paris thu nhoã nhû thïë. Nhûäng cûãa haâng quêìn aáo, àöì trang sûác vaâ nhûäng àöì taåo taác úã phña ròa cuãa khu chúå chuã yïëu laâ cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi dên töåc phña Bùæc vaâ Nam Phi. Vaâ úã giûäa, nhûäng quêìy haâng cöí vaâ àöì àaåc gia àònh àûúåc súã hûäu búãi nhûäng ngûúâi Phaáp da trùæng. Khi töi ài lang thang qua möåt trong nhûäng khu chúå coá maái che vúái nhûäng tiïëng keân rap cuãa Phaáp hay Bùæc Phi voång laåi tûâ phña trïn, töi àïí yá thêëy trïn hêìu hïët caác bûác tûúâng coá nhûäng hònh traåm khùæc nghïå thuêåt úã phña trïn vaâ bao quanh têët caã caác cûãa haâng. Möåt ngûúâi baán haâng múã möåt caánh cöíng àùçng sau cuãa cûãa haâng vaâ chó cho töi möåt sên boáng nhoã vúái möåt bûác tûúâng kñn àùåc nhûäng taác phêím nghïå thuêåt àûúâng phöë. Hònh aãnh cuãa Nelson Mandela, sûå ngheâo àoái cuãa nhûäng sa maåc chêu Phi vaâ nhûäng quyïìn lûåc cuãa ngûúâi da maâu nöíi bêåt hún caã, nhû möåt biïíu hiïån tònh caãm cuãa con ngûúâi khu vûåc naây. Vaâ taác duång cuãa noá thêåt laâ lúán lao. Phêìn lúán nhûäng cêìu thuã boáng àaá nöíi tiïëng nhêët cuãa Phaáp lúán lïn tûâ khu ngoaåi ö Ile de France, trong nhûäng khu phöë nhû Saint-Ouen. Vïì nghïå thuêåt, nhûäng hònh aãnh cuãa quaá khûá àûúåc lûu trûä taåi vö söë nhûäng baão taâng khùæp thaânh phöë, trong khi nhûäng taác phêím cuãa hiïån taåi, khöng àûúåc thu thêåp búãi nhûäng phoâng trûng baây hay ngûúâi sûu têìm nghïå thuêåt thò nùçm laåi trong nhûäng con phöë.

KHAÁ C H SAÅ N Paris khöng phaãi laâ möåt lûåa choån tiïët kiïåm cho bêët cûá ai àang tòm kiïëm nhûäng nhaâ nghó vûâa tuái tiïìn, tuy nhiïn baån vêîn coá thïí tòm àûúåc phoâng vúái giaá khoaãng €50 àïën €60/àïm, nhêët laâ nïëu baån úã gêìn khu ga Gare du Nord hay ga Gare de lEst. ÚÃ nhûäng khu vûåc khaác, baán seä phaãi traã khoaãng €100/àïm úã möåt khaách saån hai hoùåc ba sao. Baån coá thïí tham khaão khaách saån HOTEL SAINT QUENTIN (www.paris-hotel-saint-quentin.com), HOTEL PARISIANA (www.hotelparisiana.com) vaâ khaách saån cöí àiïín tinh tuáy HOTEL CHOPIN (www. hotelchopin.fr). Baån cuäng coá thïí vaâo nhûäng website www.agoda. com hay www.parishotels.com àïí tòm kiïëm nhûäng goái khuyïën maäi cuãa caác khaách saån böën hoùåc nùm sao. Caã hai trang naây àïìu coá caã nhûäng goái cho caác khaách saån reã hún nûäa.

PHÛÚNG TIÏÅ N GIAO THÖNG Nhûäng chuyïën bay thùèng tûâ Haâ Nöåi hay thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh túái Paris thûúâng mêët khoaãng 12 tiïëng do caác haäng Air France and Vietnam Airlines cung cêëp. Coá saáu chuyïën möîi tuêìn àïën sên bay Paris Charles de Gaulle tûâ Haâ Nöåi vaâ nùm chuyïën tûâ thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh. Vaâo airfrance.com.vn àïí biïët thïm chi tiïët. Tûâ sên bay Charles de Gaulle baån coá thïí bùæt chuyïën taâu RER khoaãng nûãa giúâ àöìng höì àïí túái ga Gare du Nord, gêìn vúái trung têm Paris. Veá cuãa chuyïën taâu naây coá giaá €9.10. Hïå thöëng taâu àiïån ngêìm cuãa Paris rêët thuêån tiïån vaâ hiïåu quaã - hai ga thûúâng chó caách nhau tûâ nùm àïën 10 phuát ài böå. Veá möåt lûúåt coá giaá €1.70 vaâ baån cuäng coá thïí mua veá nhiïìu lûúåt tûâ nhûäng chiïëc maáy baán veá tûå àöång úã nhaâ ga. Baån coá thïí vaâo www.parismetromap.org àïí xem baãn àöì cuãa hïå thöëng taâu àiïån ngêìm cuäng nhû xem thïm thöng tin vïì vêån haânh.

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Cûúâi àïí Laâm Ðeåp Möåt phong traâo múái, nghe coá veã khaá kyâ quùåc àang uâa vaâo thaânh phöë. Möåt thïí loaåi maâ baån chó coá thïí tin àûúåc nïëu thûåc sûå chûáng kiïën noá. Vaâ àöìng nghôa vúái àiïìu naây laâ baån phaãi thûác daåy thêåt súám àïí tham gia, nhûng Debbie Clare khùèng àõnh noá seä khöng laâm baån phaãi thêët voång. AÃnh búãi Dominic Blewett 5 giúâ saáng chùèng bao giúâ nghe coá veã thuá võ caã. Coá leä baån chó bùæt gùåp caãnh tûúång luác túâ múâi saáng àoá möîi khi baån ài chúi thêu àïm, trïn àûúâng trúã vïì tûâ sên bay hay baån bõ àaánh thûác búãi tiïëng àêåp phaá xêy dûång tûâ nhaâ haâng xoám. Vaâ nhêët àõnh àoá khöng phaãi laâ thúâi àiïím àïí baån cûúâi vò phêìn lúán moåi ngûúâi luác àoá coân àang say giêëc nöìng. Cuäng chùèng coá gò laâ bñ mêåt caã viïåc ngûúâi Viïåt Nam bùæt àêìu möåt ngaây bùçng viïåc têåp thïí duåc, duâ àoá laâ cêìu löng, aerobics hay laâ chaåy. Gêìn àêy hún thò khiïu vuä cöí àiïín cuäng trúã nïn phöí biïën úã Höì Têy hay nhaãy theo àiïåu break-dance úã Cöng viïn Lenin, vaâ cuäng khöng khoá àïí tòm thêëy nhûäng nhûäng cùåp àöi salsa hay nhûäng àiïåu nhaãy sexy úã nhûäng núi ñt ngûúâi vaâo nhûäng buöíi saáng tinh mú. Nhûng giúâ àêy möåt thûá múái meã khaác àaä àïën, maånh meä nhû vuä baäo: boã qua thaái cûåc quyïìn, àaä àïën luác baån àïën vúái möåt thûá nghe voá veã khaá ngöëc nghïëch. Möåt nhoám trïn 250 ngûúâi úã tû thïë nûãa àûáng nûãa ngöìi trûúác tûúång àaâi Lyá Thaái Töí, àöëi diïån Höì Hoaân Kiïëm. Töi khöng biïët àöi mùæt lúâ múâ coá àang àaánh lûâa mònh khöng khi töi nhòn thêëy têët caã hoå àang diïîn taã haânh àöång àaánh rùng vúái nhûäng chiïëc baân chaãi khöíng löì vö hònh, trong khi möåt söë ngûúâi khaác laâm àöång taác keáo giaän mùåt, àoåc kinh, vöî tay hay cûúâi ruác rñch. Liïåc coá phaãi nhûäng ngûúâi phuå nûä lúán tuöíi thûåc sûå àang vöî vai nhûäng ngûúâi treã hún sau àoá chaåy ài nhû àang diïîn chêåm möåt vúã kõch cêm? Ðoá laâ Yoga Cûúâi – möåt mön thïí thao thûåc sûå àiïn röì. Vaâo têët caã caác buöíi saáng, haâng trùm nhûäng con ngûúâi haånh phuác naây tuå têåp trûúác quaãng trûúâng trïn àûúâng Ðinh Tiïn Hoaâng àïí tham gia vaâo hoaåt àöång maâ coá leä chó coá thïí àûúåc diïîn taã laâ 60 phuát àiïn röì. Noá thêåt tuyïåt vúâi. Ngûúâi ta coá thïí bùn khoùn khöng biïët laâm thïë naâo coá thïí cûúâi khi khöng coá caái gò xaãy ra caã, nhûng ngay khi baån bùæt àêìu dêåm chên, vûún vai, xoa tay, vöî lûng vaâ rung lùæc khùæp ngûúâi thò nhûäng nuå cûúâi cuäng tûå nhiïn àïën theo. Trûúác khi baån kõp nhêån ra thò chñnh àêìu oác baån cuäng àang bõ xêm chiïëm búãi möåt yá nghô duy nhêët àoá laâ laâm thïë naâo àïí ngûúâi àûáng caånh baån cûúâi nhiïìu hún nûäa. Vaâ cho túái khi baån nhòn thêëy haâng trùm ngûúâi laâm àöång taác chaãi àêìu vúái möåt chiïëc lûúåc vö hònh hay giaã vúâ chúi àaân piano röìi àûa tay ngoaáy tai, coá leä baån cuäng khoá tûúãng tûúång àûúåc noá buöìn cûúâi àïën mûác naâo. "Töi àaä chaán têåp aerobics röìi, mön naây vui hún vaâ baån caâng laâm nhiïìu thò baån caâng caãm thêëy haånh phuác, sêu trong cú thïí baån; noá töët cho sûác khoãe, nhûng quan troång hún, noá töët caã cho têm höìn cuãa baån," möåt ngûúâi phuå nûä cho biïët, trong khi àang cöë lêëy laåi traång thaái bònh tônh sau buöíi têåp.

Cûúâi vúâ-cûúâi thêåt

Mön Yoga Cûúâi bùæt nguöìn tûâ Mumbai vaâo àêìu thêåp kyã 90 vaâ ngaây nay àaä phaát triïín trïn haâng chuåc nûúác vúái haâng nghòn cêu laåc böå vaâ ngaây caâng trúã nïn phöí biïën hún khi nhûäng troâ àuâa ngaây caâng àa daång. Nguyïn tùæc cuãa noá xoay quanh lyá thuyïët naäo cuãa chuáng ta khöng coá khaã nùng phên biïåt àiïåu cûúâi thêåt hay giaã. Möåt àiïåu cûúâi giaã taåo coá thïí chuyïín thaânh möåt àiïåu cûúâi thêåt vïì mùåt têm lyá. Theo nhûäng ngûúâi ài theo trûúâng phaái naây, Yoga cûúâi àûa thïm öxy lïn naäo vaâ vaâo cú thïí, cöång vúái sûå trúå giuáp cuãa caác nhõp thúã theo yoga vaâ saãn sinh ra chêët endorphin, noá dïî daâng taåo nïn caãm giaác phêën khúãi dïî chõu. "Töi àaä têåp Thaái Cûåc Quyïìn vaâ Kung Fu, sau àoá quyïët àõnh ài ÊËn Ðöå trong möåt nùm rûúäi. Ðoá laâ núi lêìn àêìu tiïn töi tiïëp xuác vúái Yoga Cûúâi," anh Lï Anh Sún, ngûúâi hûúáng dêîn böå mön naây noái. "Töi biïët chùæc rùçng ngûúâi Viïåt Nam seä thñch mön thïí thao naây nïn töi quyïët àõnh mang noá vïì Haâ Nöåi." Khoáa hoåc àêìu tiïn cuãa anh Sún vaâo nùm 2007 chó coá 13 ngûúâi tham gia. "Luác àêìu moåi ngûúâi khaá ngaåi nguâng, töi àaä húi naãn," Sún noái. "Nhûng bêy giúâ möîi lúáp hoåc cuãa töi coá trïn 200 ngûúâi tham gia. Lêìn àöng nhêët úã lúáp cuãa töi coá túái trïn 600 ngûúâi." Möåt ngûúâi tham gia lúáp hoåc ngûúâi noái thïm vaâo "Töi àaä àïën àêy àûúåc vaâi thaáng nay. Viïåc baån caãm thêëy saãng khoaái khi têåp luyïån laâ àiïìu têët nhiïn, nhûng tham gia vaâo àêy coân laâm baån caãm thêëy haånh phuác caã ngaây höm àoá nûäa. Khi baån ra khoãi lúáp vúái möåt nuå cûúâi, baån cuäng truyïìn nuå cûúâi àoá sang nhûäng ngûúâi maâ baån gùåp, vaâ haånh phuác àûúåc lan toãa." Saáu mûúi phuát liïn tuåc cûúâi coá thïí laâm àau cú buång baån ngang bùçng 100 lêìn baån têåp àöång taác gêåp buång, àiïìu naây coá nghôa laâ baån coá thïí coá àûúåc möåt caái buång phùèng lyâ nïëu baån coá thïí sùæp xïëp àïí saáng naâo cuäng àïën têåp úã àêy. Yoga Cûúâi bùæt àêìu luác 6 giúâ trïn quaãng trûúâng tûúång Lyá Thaái Töí trïn àûúâng Ðinh Tiïn Hoaâng vaâ miïîn phñ.

98 | The Word November 2011

The Word November 2011 | 99

ho chi minh city new on the scene

NEW ON THE SCENE Out of nowhere a wealth of new international restaurants are coming to the city. Here’s the lowdown. Words by Nick Ross

JUST 12 MONTHS AGO THIS publication described the level of international dining options in Saigon as “mediocre”. A few restaurants poked their heads above the all-too-large middle-of-theroad pack, but beyond that and beyond the excellent Vietnamese cuisine available here, there was little to excite anyone dedicated to good cuisine. But how much can change in a year? Over the last 12 months the cooking pots of An Phu and Phu My Hung have gained a great selection of new restaurants — from

La Villa, Boomerang, Vasco’s in The Crescent and S’Cottage through to Tamago and Trois Gourmand — while downtown the number of steak restaurants seems to have multiplied. And around this city the obsession with fusion cuisine, grilled meats and seafood continues — and all this during a period where entrepreneurs complain that they’re struggling to survive. Now as 2011 comes to a close, the dining options are once again set to increase. We may have lost Cepage, but the Japanese, South American fusion restaurant Blanchy’s

Chill is not just a sky bar with great views. It also serves up quality, international cuisine

A ravioli 'tasting' dish at the New York-style Italian, Ciao Bella

The wrap doodle dish at contemporary Thai fusion restaurant Koh Thai

Some of the typical Bavarian fare at Brotzeit

Tash has just opened on Hai Ba Trung, and amid much aplomb Chill Skybar launched in mid-October. Another Middle Eastern restaurant is on its way, as is a VietnameseMexican fusion joint. And after years of deliberation and years more of talk, the infamous TV Chef Bobby Chinn of Hanoi fame is finally opening his flagship outlet in Ho Chi Minh City. For anyone with money to spend on quality dining, times are looking good. So here’s a lowdown of what to expect over the next month in Saigon.

DUE TO OPEN Strata and Cirrus Location: Level 50 and Level 51, Bitexco Tower Opening: 11th November Singapore has Sky on 57 and the Salt Grill & Sky Bar. Bangkok has Sirocco, Vertigo and Red Sky Bistro and shortly, Saigon will have Strata and Cirrus. Located close to the summit of what is presently the tallest building in Vietnam and one of only two high-rises in the world to come replete with a very-high-in-thesky helipad, for these two new restaurants it’s the heavens that may be the limit. Although none of their regional contemporaries have yet to make it into the S. Pellegrino top 100 restaurants in the world — at present only six restaurants in Asia sit in this elite group — all of these outlets are rated among their city’s top 10. But thanks to location, stunning vistas of the city, quality cuisine and service to match, all have received extensive international press and acclaim beyond the country in which they reside. Should Strata and Cirrus achieve their goals, they should be able to do the same — a first for a restaurant in this city. Cirrus on Level 51 will be the showpiece. Promising fine dining with an Asian twist, open, theatre-style kitchens and interactive tableside service, it will be interesting to see how this restaurant fares. Run by the people behind the Saigon Gourmet Group — think ZanZBar — the hope is that together with Bobby Chinn’s (see below) and Blanchy’s Tash (see our Just In section), that they will

100 | The Word November 2011

(SILENCE). All our poultry and meats are halal or as close as it gets to kosher… except the pork of course!” And so on… Get the picture?

Koh Thai

The sala fish at pan-Asian teppanyaki restaurant, Vicky's put this city on the regional culinary map.

Bobby Chinn’s Location: Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza Opening: Mid-November If you’ve never heard of Bobby Chinn, then you’re about to. Once the owner of a primely located restaurant on Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi, he may have lost his original location, but fortune has continued to be good to the man behind the name. Half Egyptian, half Chinese and with a cooking background from California, Bobby is at once charming, rude, controversial, funny and irritating, and it is this outrageous, off-the-wall personality that has brought him TV chef stardom on the Travel & Leisure channel in his programme,

World Café. The team behind his new flagship venture in Saigon are keeping quiet about the details, but due to open mid-November, if the Hanoi eatery now in Tay Ho is anything to go by, expect international fare fused with Middle Eastern and Asian flavours. And then of course, there are the wacky menus. As Chinn writes in his house rules: “This restaurant is an Abba, Kenny G and Gypsy King free zone. We also refuse to play any bands with more than one lead singer or matching sweaters. Female teenyboppers dressed like whores with synchronized dancing are also banned! To preserve the dining experience, we request that you are well versed in mobile phone etiquette

Location: First Floor, Kumho Plaza Opening: Mid November A modern Thai fusion restaurant that will be attempting to merge traditional Thai flavours with striking, contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai promises to add a new dimension to Asian cuisine in the city. Headed up by a Thai chef, expect a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes will be focused on set menus while the evening fare will concentrate on a la carte, and to add to the cuisine is an extensive wine list and creative cocktails that merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs. Except for a few notable exceptions, the present selection of Thai restaurants in Saigon is pretty dire. This could be a great addition to the scene.

Brotzeit Location: First Floor, Kumho Plaza Opening: End of November Yet another eatery located in the revamped Kumho Plaza, Brotzeit is a German bier bar and restaurant with outlets in Singapore

and Malaysia. Meaning bread (“brot”) and time (“zeit”), expect well-known German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. According to the company’s website, it’s all wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One. It also seems they may be going for the premium end of the market. Regardless of their target market, if Brotzeit can tap into the present local obsession for microbrewery beer washed down with Central European cuisine, they could be onto a winner. One to watch out for.

Beirut The Courtyard, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Opening: To be announced Originally supposed to be the first branch of Italian coffee chain Segafredo in Ho Chi Minh City — the outside décor is identical to Segafredo in Hanoi’s West Lake area — the outlet has since transformed itself into a Lebanese restaurant called Beirut. At the time of writing, though, the restaurant manager had just departed and the people behind the scenes were unwilling to talk. So watch this space. If it works out, it will add extra drinking and dining options to the space already housing Refinery, Vasco’s, Hoa Tuc, Vino and Jaspa’s.

ALREADY OPENED The following restaurants opened in October 2011. For more information please go to our Just In section on page 10.

Ciao Bella 11 Dong Du, Q1 New York-Style Italian

Vicky’s 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Pan-Asian Teppanyaki

Blanchy’s Tash 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Japanese / South American Fusion

Chill Skybar 26th Floor, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1 International

Swiss Chalet 54 Pasteur, Q1 Swiss / Central European

Samba 10C Thai Van Lung, Q1 Brazilian Steakhouse

The Word November 2011 | 101

ho chi minh city

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE

Ho Chi Minh City Listings restaurant - italian 103 restaurant - southeast asian 103 restaurant - vietnamese 104 resobars 104

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an + extensive + wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass. AC

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restaurants - chinese BUDGET LIVE MUSIC

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102 | The Word November 2011

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list. + + SMOKING WIFI

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 29B Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Decidedly intimate, this whitewashed, open-kitchened, 22-seater restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list – 75 at present count – and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

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NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s self-made tandoor oven. Excellent.

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627). AC

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CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

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CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

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SZECHUAN / CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back. AC WIFI WIFI

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks. DELIVERY WIFI

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PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best–known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes

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MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely. WIFI

bars & nightclubs 102 Restaurants - chinese 102 restaurant - french 102 restaurant - indian 102 restaurant - international 102

2 Lam Son (Martini Bar)

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bob Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

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EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com 7.30am to 11pm daily Famed for its Australian-style burgers served up with pickled beetroot and fried egg, the two-storey, bistro-style Bernie’s is much more than a burger joint. Boasting comfort food-style mains ranging from steaks, grills and pizzas through to pasta, sandwiches, salads and panini, this venue also has a Vietnamese food menu. Live music enters proceedings on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays and space is also available for private functions.

Elbow Room AC

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AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

Subway

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171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 3836 4497 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

Warda

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MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with

rary international–style grill and modern European fare with sushi and sashimi.

eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

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CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3915 3691 www.flowsaigon.com 7.30am to midnight, Monday to Friday. 10am to midnight, Saturday. 10am to 3.30pm, Sunday Opening up onto an enormous first floor dining area with an outdoor terrace to boot, this black and white, artwork-clad space with touches of deep red is one of the latest international styled restaurants to descend on Saigon. Excellent service, an extensive wine menu and modern fusion European cuisine all combine to make this a great place for a quality meal. Also puts on events and film screenings. LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

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PAN-ITALIAN 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 8181 www.pendolasco-restaurantvietnam.com 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world. DJ DJ

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful,

rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

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PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

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THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

Skewers AC

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

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CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN / SASHIMI 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and sushi bar, as wells as a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city makes up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contempo-

The Word November 2011 | 103

ho chi minh city MID-RANGE LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic five-storey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

VIET CHAY BUDDHIST VEGETARIAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 7am to 9.30pm If you’re into Buddhist-style vegetarian cuisine and aren’t put off by faux meat, the offerings at Viet Chay are among the best in town. Set in the grounds of the city’s largest pagoda, the joint, hygienic indoor, outdoor space is the setting for dishes like tuna made out of bean curd and pork ribs constructed out of tofu. Sounds odd but tastes great and prices are cheap, too.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

104 | The Word November 2011

HOA TUC

HARD ROCK CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

AMERICAN / LIVE MUSIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6291 7595 www.hardrockcafe.vn 11am to midnight The rock memorabilia, cowboy-like, rockcentred American food menu and branded décor at the Saigon version of this international branded café provide for one of the city’s few, medium capacity downtown music venues. The nightly live music is accompanied by a pricey (for Saigon) food menu that includes burgers, hickorysmoked BBQ ribs, fajitas, sandwiches and salads. Puts on regular events – check their website for details.

LUONG SON

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALIBI INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

CEPAGE LOUNGE BAR / INTERNATIONAL Lancaster Building, 22 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8733 www.cepage.biz 8am to 12pm. Sunday 5pm to 12pm When the plush but chic Cepage opened its doors, its décor and concept caused a stir thanks to its lounge-style seating, eye-catching subtly lit bar area, upstairs restaurant and glass-fronted wine cellar. Then there was the international, Japanese-influenced food menu, put together by German Andreas Ertle, one of the city’s best chefs. More than three years on this comfortable but well-priced restobar still hits the spot, and also boasts one of the most creative cocktail lists in town. Check out their black box lunchtime deal.

2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded

reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains. +

SANDALS

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 93 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 5198 www.sailingclubvietnam.com 7am to 12am Creative, international-influenced Mediterranean cuisine is the focus at this airy, Buddha-inspired, sandalwood coloured restobar that is part of the Sailing Club chain in Mui Ne and Nha Trang. With a downstairs bar area, two floors of dining space and an upstairs terrace-cum-lounge bar, Sandals provides a pleasant, more laid back alternative to the standard nightlife and dining scene in downtown Saigon. Has a range of specials and happy hours on offer.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 info@saigongourmetgroup 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, a laid back atmosphere and a conversation-friendly bar area mix with a dining space out back and international fusion cuisine to make this one of downtown’s go-to destinations. Running the gamut from sake ‘n’ harissa marinated cod through to torchon of lamb, chicken souvlaki, a lemon pepper salmon salad, a chimichurri burger and a range of enticing desserts, the cuisine here is top-notch and the presentation excellent.

the final say ong audi & ba bentley by

ong audi

ba bentley

CAR OWNERS WIND DOWN YOUR WINDOWS, KAITLIN REES HAS SOMETHING TO SAY WHILE RECENTLY REVIEWING A LIST OF PERSONAL questions with my Vietnamese tutor, I went through the typical: What is your name? Where are you from? How old are you? Where do you work? Then she added another common question that Vietnamese ask: How much is your salary? I get that some personal questions, like asking about age, are necessary for conversation — to understand where in the hierarchy the speaker stands; to know how to refer to each other in context. While the salary question is a personal one, many are just curious to know. My tutor informed me, “Even if your answer is ‘enough,’ the follow up question will be, ‘how much is enough?’” The same question runs through my head when a Bentley’s horn trumpets the so-expendable-it-hurtsincome of its owner as it lumbers through traffic. Or when a Rolls Royce makes itself a parade of one in the city. In August this year, the tax on imported used cars was increased to hinder imports, curb inflation and reduce traffic’s burden on the city’s infrastructure. If owning a luxury car means having to absorb an import tax of over 80 percent, plus a value added tax of 10 percent, a special consumption tax, and an extra VND104 million, I have to ask, “Why bother?”

Let it all Hang Out ‘Conspicuous consumption’ is a 100-year-old term first used by American Thorstein Veblin. At a time when many Americans were growing rich, it became important to show off wealth. The idea, a pretty basic one, is that buying more expensive products with the same function as cheaper alternatives signals your wealth to others. Status symbols like this are everywhere in Hanoi, and most are in the shape of Audis, Ferraris, BMWs and Hummers. So why does it bother me? It’s a difficult question that maybe demands I admit to being a wideeyed visitor to Vietnam who fantasized about life outside my home country’s worship of the dollar. The VND10

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““VND10 VND10 B BILLION ILLION C ARS M AKE M E FFEEL EEL CARS MAKE ME C CHEATED HEATED O OUT UT O OFF SOME ROMANTIC S OME R OMANTIC C ITY TTHAT HAT N EVER CITY NEVER REALLY R EALLY EEXISTED XISTED ANYWAY” A NYWAY”

billion cars make me feel cheated out of some romantic city that never really existed anyway. Or maybe it’s because the ‘conspicuous consumption’ in America has since morphed into ‘conspicuous conservation’. Donating to charities, buying energy saving hybrid cars and eating only organic food are now the symbols of wealth. Though perhaps still annoying, there’s at least the argument that this kind of status signifier does some good for the world. Spending money that you have for an easier time getting along is logical. If you can afford a computer, an iPod, a camera, or anything smart to hold in your hands, it makes sense that you would buy those things. If you can afford to live in an apartment close to work, you might pay a higher rent for that convenience. Bathtubs, vitamins and insulated boots in winter are all in the same category. But driving cars that have been grossly overtaxed in a city that is ill-equipped to handle them is convenient for no one — neither the driver or the people who have to step to the side and wait for these wealth symbols to crawl through skinny streets. To be clear, there are expensive looking things that turn my head. I like wearing fake gold jewelry; I like sitting on thick slabs of wooden furniture and drinking aged red wine out of tall-stemmed glasses. I’ve paid too much for vintage clothing and probably some of the pages in my passport. And even if fancy cars impressed me, I think watching a Hummer shove itself down the narrow alleyways of Ba Dinh would still incite a mild rage. To me the act is akin to a child wearing a new, bulky, winter jacket to school in the summer, keeping it on in class, sweating a lot, and then filling up the whole room with his body odour. Only it’s less forgivable because the people who make these fancycar purchases are not 11 years old. ‘Conspicuous consumption’ only works because people agree on which things are desirable and which things matter. It’s why, for example, it means nothing to drive a hybrid car or have solar panels on your roof if you live in a town where no one thinks twice about throwing refuse and huge amounts of plastic bags onto the street. So maybe driving around an unreasonably, overpriced and inconvenient vehicle is not the crime of a few attention seekers, but rather evidence of an emerging cultural value. Status over all else. As a person in the thick of learning the somewhat complicated personal pronouns, I wonder about the value of age at the base of the language. Social status at any cost, to the outsider, appears to carry as much import as the wisdom and experience of age. Are the foundations wobbling? Or was that just a Lexus SUV passing?

The Word November 2011 | 107

the final say

PICTURES OF THE MONTH

PROVIDED BY ERIC MERLIN

The owner of Halong Bayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Emeraude Classic Cruises, Eric Merlin, used these shots from the early 20th century as inspiration for the replica paddle boat used on the bay today. They show the original Emeraude giving some of the first tours of Halong Bay during the time of French occupation. The boats here were owned by the Roque family from France, who Eric met in Paris after tracking them down in 2003.

Do you o w photogr n a a p h that would lo ok g Email it t ood here? o ed wordhan itor@ oi.com

Discover Tuscany with Acqua Panna

Tourists taking a cruise on The Emeraude

The original Emeraude on Halong Bay

View of Halong Bay from The Emeraude

The Bank of Indochina in Hai Phong

Coolies pulling rickshaws towards Hai Phong

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Inauguration of Haly Bridge in Hai Phong

The pride of Tuscany since 1564, Acqua Panna natural still mineral water from Sanpellegrino encapsulates the very essence of Tuscan lifestyle and heritage. The Acqua Panna springs lie in the heart of the Tuscan hills inside a vast and beautiful natural reserve. From the mid 16th century, Villa Panna has been known for it beneficial characteristics and velvety smooth taste.WWW.ACQUAPANNA.COM