The Word Ho Chi Minh City February 2012

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION FEBRUARY 2012

T I N Y

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

BIG CITY

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

wordhcmc.com

FEBRUARY 2012

054

046

030

050 FEATURES

COLUMNS

006 l The Prelude THE TALK 009 l The Big Five 010 l Just In 014 l In the Papers 016 l Word of Mouth 020 l Calendar 022 l Overscene INSIDER 008 l Tittle-Tattle and Tyra The supermodel herself made it to Vietnam last month. But what was the significance?

030 TINY

TALES FROM THE BIG CITY

A selection of stories celebrating the little things in life

042 THE

YEAR AHEAD

Will the Year of the Tiger bring businesses in with a roar? Or will it whimper them in with a cry? Find out

046 BATTAMBANG The best bang for your travel bucks can be had at this Cambodia city with bamboo train rides, breathtaking boat trips and amazing pagodas

050 MYSTERY

DINER

It’s all about curries, curries and curries this month, with a touch of PanEuropean cuisine, too

052 THE

SOUND OF MUSIC

The city’s soundscape is being refined with orchestrated performances at the Opera House

054 LET’S

GET PHYSICAL

The battle of the bulge just got easier with these gyms around town

044 l Gimme Shelter A group of animal lovers are rehabilitating stray cats and dogs and finding them new homes

2 | The Word February 2012

100 l Road Rules 102 l Decks 'n Drums 103 l In the Frame CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HANOI 124 l Single White Female in Hanoi An autobiography about one woman's life in the capital

126 l Creative Inking Know the rules if you want to join this tattoo club

FINAL SAY

026 l The Local Fixer If Hollywood has a problem filming in Vietnam, his number is on their speed dial

136

Family Guy Mania Answers See p139 for the original puzzle 1) Gas 2) 7 3) Glen Quagmire 4) Horace 5) True 6) Kisstock 7) S.S. Stronger than Superman, Batman, Spiderman and the Hulk 8) Daggermouth 9) Ye Old Pube 10) True 11) Death broke his ankle 12) An evil monkey 13) Loose Lois 14) Peter, Lois and Meg 15) A moat 16) A brand new car 17) A giant robot 18) Toad 19) Drug searching 20) Cheesy Charlie's

136 l Bursting with Bubbly Time to pop the bottle and let the bubbles escape 140 l On the Stool The life of a successful business woman in the city

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

CHRISTINE VAN

Senior Staff Photographer quinn@wordhcmc.com

Managing Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

EJ CHUNG

JOHN THORNTON

Staff Photographer ej@wordhcmc.com

Deputy Editor john@wordhcmc.com

MARK ALLAN

PAOLO MALING

Website Developer mark@wordhcmc.com

Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

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NGUYEN TAN LOC

Online Editor & Features Writer james@wordhcmc.com

Layout Designer loc@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS

VU HA KIM VY

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhcmc.com

Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG

General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN

NGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN

Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 902 361561 Special thanks to — Charles Barnes, Jonathan Rebours, Stephanie Cantrell, Lyra Dacio, Eric Bruen, Ngan Nguyen, Helen Robbens, Jackie Kehoe, Philip Burnett and Heather Woodward for their contributions to this issue E U R O

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Crossword Answers See p138 for the original puzzle. Pluzzle by Frank A. Longo Edited by Will Shortz

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM–DV– QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 102–2010/CXB/21–03/LĐ ngày 20/01/2010 Quyết định xuất bản số 400 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 16/01/2011 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude L

ittle drops of water and little grains of sand make up the mighty ocean. The same can also be said for the subjects covered in our cover story this month. Tiny Tales from the Big City isn’t just about celebrating the small things but about putting into perspective where we are in the greater scheme of life, seen through the microcosmic lens of Ho Chi Minh City.

The world, as we know it, is getting more crowded, natural resources are becoming scarce, and land and space is the latest currency on the market. What can we do to counter these effects and leave a smaller

carbon footprint? The answer is to downsize our lives. With all accounted for, we are no more than drops in this great ocean or miniscule ants on the treadmill of life. So, why try to big ourselves up?

With such philosophical questions out in the ether, elsewhere we return to the physical world hitting the non-proverbial treadmills out there in an attempt to shed the extra pounds put on over Christmas, New Year and Tet. We also get in touch with our inner animal lover at a rehabilitation centre for stray cats and dogs, dare to question what the business year ahead may have in store during the Year of the Dragon,

INBOX

and delve into the world of classical music courtesy of the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet and Symphony Orchestra.

Thanks to an early Tet this year we’ve completed two issues in record time. So now, as we go to print, we look forward to a well-deserved break. By the time you read this, though, the rest period will be over and you will most likely be back at work. We hope you enjoyed the holidays and wish you success and happiness for the coming year.

As always, send your comments to Christine at christine@wordhcmc.com.

An Khang Thinh Vuong!

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION FEBRUARY 2012

T I N Y

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

BIG CITY

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo: Quinn Ryan Mattingly Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL CHRISTINE AT christine@wordhcmc.com

FROM THE HORSE’S MOUTH

(Crosstown Traffic, Jan. 2012) Having been one of the countless people to enjoy the online video Traffic in Frenetic HCMC, it was great to hear from Rob Whitworth himself about how he put together such an amazing series of shots. When interviews are normally fairly dull it was good to have one that was actually quite interesting for a change. — Sophie

FRESH FACED New Word logo looks super! — Patrick

6 | The Word February 2012

A TO DO LIST (Travel Notes, Jan. 2012) I loved reading the Travel

Notes about 30 things to see. So I'm off for a blind massage now... — JMA

February 2012 The Word | 7

The Talk

THE

BIG

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

2

Tittle-Tattle and Tyra

C

elebrities are just that, erm celebrities. Some are vacuous, attention-seeking souls whose rise to the entertainment pages of Hello seems to bear little justification beyond a night shooting darts with Ryan Giggs or downing highballs with De Niro.

Others genuinely deserve their fame.

Regardless, over exposure has left many of the general public jaded.

But in Vietnam, a country that has yet to develop the culture of stardom so prevalent in the west, the arrival of a household name can ruffle more that just a few feathers.

Cue, centre stage, Tyra Banks. Along with Mark Zuckerberg, the JoliePitt entourage, a couple of American presidents, The Duke of York and Donald Trump, she's one of the few genuine international household names to make it to Vietnam. The result was that a far larger number of viewers watched the three-hour long final of Vietnam's Top Model, the local version of Tyra’s franchise, than would have done otherwise. For a show dogged by widespread criticism this was a feat. But that was the whole idea.

Talking the Talk Press conferences overseas tend to be a free-for-all. Manchester United manager, Sir Alec Ferguson, for example, will take

8 | The Word February 2012

all job-related questions and will deal with them as best as possible. Sometimes he is eminently quotable, sometimes he responds with psycho babble, sometimes he refuses to answer. But unless the questions pertain to anything outside the realm of football, there are no boundaries to what can or cannot be asked.

At the press conference in Vietnam, though, the questions were vetted.

Nothing too controversial. Fortunately, Tyra’s answers proved herself to be worthy of stardom.

“It's not about being the best looking,” she explained about becoming a successful model. “You have to treat it like a business.”

She added: “My mum always told me you have to think about the end at the beginning… The idea is to leave the industry before the phone starts ringing.”

But more important for a country like Vietnam, where the models typically lack curves: “We want to expand the definition of beauty... I like atypical beauty.”

Hello, Goodbye Ok. At the end of the day, it’s Tyra Banks.

Who cares? She’s just a human being with normal bodily functions like the rest of us, right? And yet, except for Miss Universe a few years ago, this is the first time an overseas celebrity has flown into Vietnam specifically to appear on Vietnamese TV. It’s big.

Vietnam is an ambitious country and

CLASSICAL PIANO CONCERT SCREENING FOR CHARITY

Season 2 of Me Phim’s Art House Cinema series at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2) kicks off on Feb. 29 with a screening of the late 1990s British cult classic, Human Traffic.

Set in Cardiff, Wales, the film follows five friends on a hedonistic weekend, providing a provocative social commentary about the early 1990s rave scene and 'live for the weekend' vibe explored through the central characters (played by John Simm, Danny Dyer and Lorraine Pilkington) and an era-defining soundtrack by Armand Van Helden, Underworld, Primal Scream and more.

Showing at 7.30pm entrance is free of charge though audiences are welcome to donate to the Me Phim Cinema Project Fund which is currently supporting screenings for young people at a Saigon Children's Charity vocational school in District 4.

Tyra Banks’ recent trip to Vietnam represents a milestone

desperately wants to be recognized on the world stage. And yet, despite talk of the booming economy, it gets overlooked when the stars come to Southeast Asia. Tyra coming here is a milestone. It says that this country is elevated enough in the supermodel’s esteem to be worthy of a high profile trip. More importantly it’s a mark of where Vietnam is on the development scale.

And as the country’s fortunes continue to improve, so more household names will make it over here. Let’s just hope they’ve got something to say for themselves and aren’t the mindless, self-seeking idiots who make it into Hello.

4

1

BLUES BROTHERS TRIBUTE REUNION

In celebration of the cult American blues & soul revivalist band, musicians will once again don the trademark jet black suits, fedora hats and Ray-Ban Wayfarer sunglasses made famous by legendary comedic duo Dan Akroyd and John Belushi.

Following the success of the previous Blues Brothers tribute in 2010, the spirit of brothers Jake and Elwood Blues will be rekindled at Vasco’s (74D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Feb. 21 from 9.30pm to 11pm.

Featuring well-known musician Keith Nolan among others, expect a wild evening of rhythm and blues replete with jazz and rock twists, synchronised dance moves and riotous harmonica solos as multi-man horn and rhythm sections belt out iconic hits such as Everybody Needs Somebody, Soul Man and Twist It (Shake Your Tail Feather).

The Antenna in Ho Chi Minh City of the French Institute in Vietnam and IDECAF presents a classical music concert with artist Marie Vermeulin at 8pm on Feb. 7 at the Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City. She has won several prizes including first prize at the International Music Tournament as well as the Grand Prix in Rome.

The programme begins with Olivier Messiaen’s Island of Fire I, followed

by Claude Debussy’s Stamps, before segueing into a Preludes Cross by both composers, and finishing with Debussy’s For Piano and Messiaen’s Island of Fire II. Entrance ranges from VND100,000 to VND200,000. Tickets can be purchased daily from the Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City from 8am to 8pm.

The Conservatory of Ho Chi Minh City is located at 112 Nguyen Du, Q1. Tel: 3822 5841 (ext. 102)

3

FULL BLACKBERRY SERVICE NOW AVAILABLE

A full feature BlackBerry service is now available in Vietnam from the top three carriers in the country — Mobifone, Vinaphone and Viettel.

Individuals and companies currently using SIM cards from either of these carriers can now register for BlackBerry services (email, BBM, web) without having to change their phone numbers, sign up for long-term contracts or pay high monthly costs. Prepaid consumer packages start at VND130,000 per month and postpaid enterprise packages start at VND250,000 per month.

The BlackBerry service available in Vietnam offers the same functionality as in any other country in the world, with full features such as access to BlackBerry App World and BlackBerry Messenger.

For more information, contact Patrick Wolfe at Patrick.wolfe@brightstarcorp.com or 0982 457575

5

CRYSTAL BALL BUSINESS LUNCHEON

The Canadian Chamber of Commerce will host the first international business luncheon of the year, titled The Year of the Dragon — Crystal Ball 2012, this month.

Held on Feb. 7 from 11am to 2pm at the New World Saigon Hotel (76 Le Lai, Q1), the luncheon is their seventh annual The Year Ahead event. Guests this year can expect well-known guest speakers from a variety of business sectors presenting their general outlooks, identifying challenges and likelihoods for the coming year.

Attendance is limited to 190 seats and tickets cost VND860,000 for members and co-hosted members, and VND1,075,000 for non members.

Advance booking is strongly recommended.

For more information and to purchase a ticket, call 3824 3754 or email hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org

February 2012 The Word | 9

Just In

the talk

BUSINESS MEETS HOSPITALITY DELTA LIFE THROUGH A LENS DEL

TIME TO SIN

A new coffee table photo book depicting life in the Mekong Delta through the ferries that cross the river and its tributaries has been released.

Titled Crossing the Mekong, the set of photos was taken by German-Vietnamese photographer Morgan Ommer who has worked for Vogue, Time and Travel & Leisure.

Priced at VND650,000, copies can be purchased at Art Book (43 Dong Khoi, Q1), the Saigon Central Post Office (2 Cong Xa Paris, Q1) or by mail order via morgan@ litlleodyssey.com.

Located on the ground floor of the Lancaster (22-22bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1), Sin Lounge is a provocative new restobar that encourages its patrons to eschew their heavenly virtues in favour of indulging their darker urges.

Split into seven sections mirroring the seven deadly sins of greed, envy, wrath, sloth, vanity, gluttony and pride, Sin Lounge is open daily from 6pm to 1am and furthers its decadent image by offering sin-themed shots and shooters (VND170,000 to VND180,000) and cocktails (VND210,000), as well as fine wines and champagnes, and snacks such as chicken wings, Chinese tofu stuffed with beef bolognaise, tuna rounds and a charcuterie board of cold cuts.

For inquiries about events, functions and table bookings, call 3828 8182. www.sinlounge.vn

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL TO OPEN IN HANOI A new four-star hotel will open in the centre of the capital’s Old Quarter next month.

Consisting of 55 rooms and suites, the Golden Silk Boutique Hanoi will officially open on Mar. 1. Facilities include the 56-seater Oriental Restaurant serving international and Vietnamese fare, and the 36-seater Rendezvous Piano Bar offers fine wines, premium liquors and champagnes, and an array of classic and modern cocktails. And for the first time in Hanoi, guests of the Golden Silk Boutique Hotel will be able to enjoy free minibar snacks and drinks, which are replenished daily.

Other complimentary services include coffee and pineapple flavoured tea in the lobby, boxed-up breakfasts en route to the airport, newspapers for business travellers, daily housekeeping with evening turndown, and entrance to the fitness centre from 10am to 10pm.

The Golden Silk Boutique Hotel is located at 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Tel: 3928 6969. www.goldensilkhotel.com

A PEAK AT PARADISE Paradise Cruises, a five-star cruise company operating in Halong Bay since 2008, has launched its ninth and newest boat.

Dubbed Paradise Peak, the eight-suite vessel is divided into three categories; junior, superior and premium, and displays designs inspired by traditional Vietnamese junks, as well as private terraces, in-cabin dining areas, a library, fitness corner, two massage rooms and a spa with sauna and Jacuzzi.

Guests will be treated to a range of a la carte-style excursions and activities, such as selecting dining delicacies and locations, and be attended by their own personal butler.

For enquiries and information, visit www.paradisecruises.vn and email info@ paradisecruises.vn

The recently opened Vatel Saigon offers a unique concept in Vietnam. Both a restaurant and a hospitality training school, this venue is run by the Bachelor students of Vatel International Business School in Hotel & Tourism Management under the supervision of internationally experienced managers and teachers as part of their educational programme.

Situated in District 1, Vatel Saigon has a capacity for nearly 100 covers, offering a daily French bistro-styled lunch menu. For dinner, chef Patrick Berenger presents an a la carte menu that fuses French cuisine with Asian touches. Entrees include tomato and orange blossom gazpacho (VND120,000) and prawn cocktail with jackfruit salad (VND200,000), while mains include pork filet mignon in forest tobacco (VND300,000) and entrecote bordelaise with shallot sauce (VND450,000).

The restaurant has been designed with a Zen patio, two private function rooms and an art gallery displaying paintings by artists from Vietnam and France.

Vatel Saigon is located at 102bis Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1. Tel: 01264 244866. www. vatelsaigon.com

UNIVERSAL BAR & CAFÉ OPENS IN THE PHAM Recently opened, the Australian-run Universal Bar & Café (90 Bui Vien, Q1) is becoming well known as a popular live acoustic venue and eatery.

Serving up hearty international fare such as English-style chips (VND45,000), seafood pizza (VND120,000), hamburgers, fish and chips, and Italian cuisine, as well as a selection of Vietnamese snacks and mains, draught beers go for VND30,000 and spirits VND55,000.

Open daily from 12pm till the small hours of the next morning, the venue’s second floor can accommodate live sports, private parties, DJs and sales presentations thanks to its big screen, sound system and multimedia facilities.

For further information, email universalbarsaigon@gmail.com

10 | The Word February 2012

SAY BONJOUR TO LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON With its intriguing slogan — “What happens in Le Bouchon stays in Saigon…” — retro French pop-culture artwork and lovingly defaced photos of the head chef adorning its walls, Le Bouchon De Saigon is not your average traditional French restaurant.

Headed up by the husband and wife team of Alexis and Jenny Melgrani, and former Evason Ana Mandara & Six Senses Spa Resort, Nha Trang head chef David Thai, the Gallic bistro places a heavy emphasis on creating a communal and intimate family-friendly dining atmosphere.

Open from 11am to 10pm Monday to Thursday and from 11am to 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays (though the restaurant closes between 2.30pm and 5.30pm daily), the menu offers 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French fare for lunch and dinner.

Examples include roasted jumbo tomato, warm goat’s cheese and Parma ham salad (VND170,000), smoked salmon and avocado sandwich with crème fraiche (VND190,000), traditional beef tartar with mesclun salad and homemade frites (VND320,000), and duck breast magret with French wholegrain mustard sauce and sautéed potatoes (VND380,000).

Wines are competitively priced and come from France, South Africa and Australia.

Le Bouchon de Saigon is located at 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3829 9263

CALLIGARIS SHOWROOM NOW OPEN FIGARO, FIGARO, FIGARO! Rising from the ashes of the recently closed Latin Cafe Bar, Figaro is the first Italian-style tapas bar to pop up in downtown Saigon.

Specialising in Italian tapas and quality dining in a casual setting, the aperrandivi menu contains such Mediterranean delights as Italian meatballs in Napoli sauce, eggplant with roasted tomato and goat’s cheese yoghurt sauce and rosemary chilli chicken in white wine sauce, with prices ranging from VND85,000 to VND215,000.

Pizzas include the likes of prawns with sun dried tomato and a pesto, lemon and aioli (VND235,000), Italian sausage, ham, salami and herbs (VND215,000) and olives, mushroom, anchovies and roast peppers (VND195,000), while specialities include duck lasagne with shaved zucchini and truffle ravioli with porcini mushrooms.

As well offering various salads and pasta dishes and a blackboard of changing specials, Figaro stocks up to 40 wines from Italy, France, Chile and the New World by the bottle, ranging from VND300,000 to VND1.5 million, and a selection of cocktails priced from VND90,000.

Figaro is located at 17 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3827 9095

The first Calligaris showroom in Vietnam has officially opened at The Crescent Mall in District 7.

The Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

The Calligaris showroom is located at The Crescent Mall (4F-10, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7).

Tel: 5413 7355

February 2012 The Word | 11

The Buzz

the talk

SWING TO SWIM Aussie Rules football team, the Vietnam Swans, has teamed up with golf course Montgomerie Links, Danang, for the second annual Swing to Swim Charity Golf Day and Dinner Fundraiser.

Held on Mar. 17 at Montgomerie Links, this year’s full itinerary has yet to be finalised though will include lots of competitions, auctions, prizes, entertainment and fun on the golf course, with all proceeds raised shared equally between Swim Vietnam and Swim Safe (Royal Life Saving Society of Australia). Last year’s event raised VND525 million to help teach kids to not only survive but thrive in inland waters and along shore lines in Vietnam.

To register your interest as a sponsor or player, contact Jon Tomlinson at Montgomerie Links via jon. tomlinson@montgomerielinks.com or Phil Johns at vietnamswans@gmail.com

FINANCE WORKSHOPS Total Wealth Management will host two workshops and a 30-day personal finance challenge this month.

The workshops, dubbed Know Your Finances, will take place on Feb. 18 and Feb. 25, from 1.30pm to 3pm; provide nine key financial ratios every expat needs to know, covering areas such as debt management, emergency savings and retirement planning.

The 30-day personal finance challenge aims to get those interested in the best possible financial shape. Participants will perform a different financial exercise daily throughout February.

For more information and to register, visit www.t-wm.com/workshops.html and contact Karin Eisenbach at Karin.eisenbach@t-wm.com

XXL House, electro and pop music night, XXL, goes extra large at Blanchy’s Tash (95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Feb. 4 with DJs Dan K (UK), Konka (IT) and Kaiser T (VN) taking over two floors to make one massive party. Then, on Feb. 14, DJ Jordan Howard and a surprise special guest will serenade lovers during the restobar’s Valentine’s Day champagne celebration.

Regular weekly events, Underground with Jordan Howard (nu disco, house), Pure with Dan K (house), Juicy with Kaiser T (hip-hop, R&B), and Bash@Tash with Jordan Howard (house, pop, 80s) will continue every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, respectively. y

ROSTAING R OSTAING MONGOLIAN TROPHY 2012 Jacques Rostaing and Viet Adventure are ready to take the brave and the bold on a unique expedition race to the remote region of Altai, Western Mongolia, a massif lying on the border of both Russia and China, some 2,000 km west of the Mongolian capital of Ulan Bator.

Starting off at Tsanbagarav National Park, the Rostaing Mongolian Trophy provides a rugged, wild backdrop, stunning landscapes and pure wilderness, and calls upon nothing more than resourcefulness, intelligence, experience and energy, excluding all outside intervention and use of motorised vehicles.

The competitors, in teams of four, will follow the footsteps of Genghis Khan moving forward through orienteering, rafting,

12 | The Word February 2012

horseback back riding riding, camel riding riding, mountain biking and glacier trekking, covering all types of terrain from screaming downhill runs, across the high country, through grassy steppe and pastures to snow-capped mountains.

The Rostaing Mongolian Trophy, which is supported by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism in Mongolia, takes place from Aug. 26 to Sep. 2 and will raise money for a sustainable project in Mongolia devoted to help local communities access safe drinking water. Furthermore, Viet Adventure evaluates every aspect of the adventure expedition to identify where waste and carbon impact can be minimised, developing a Go Green initiative.

For pricing, registration and a detailed daily itinerary of activities, visit www.rostaingmongolia.com and email marketing@rostaingmongolia.com

February 2012 The Word | 13

In the Papers

the talk THU THIEM FERRY OFFICIALLY SHUTS OPERATIONS

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

FEWER THAN 50 WILD TIGERS LEFT IN VIETNAM Dr Le Xuan Canh, head of the Institute of Ecology and Biological Resources, said at the recent Vietnam Forest Management Department conference that the number of wild tigers in Vietnam “has been reduced quickly from more than 100 ten years ago to fewer than 50.”

Surveys have found traces of between 27 to 47 tigers at six reserves and national parks, mostly in the Central Vietnam border areas.

The institute has sent 38 gene samples from the tigers for examination overseas.

Tests showed that the tigers include at least seven Amur tigers, also known as Siberian tigers, 25 Indochinese or Corbett tigers and four Indian tigers.

UNLABELED ADDITIVES SOLD TO MAKE SOUP

TWO TAXI COMPANIES SUSPENDED FROM AIRPORT

A wholesale market in Ho Chi Minh City is selling unidentified additives that, when mixed with water, turns them into broth or fruit juices. The additives are sold without labels at Kim Bien Market in District 5.

They have several flavours including orange, lime, grape, strawberry, coffee, chocolate, beef and seafood. One kilogram of the beef additive costs less than VND420,000.

Figures from the Ho Chi Minh City Food Safety and Hygiene Department show that the number of food poisoning victims in 2011 increased to 848 from 734 the previous year.

The Ministry of Transport’s inspectors have suspended two taxi companies from operating at Tan Son Nhat International Airport in Ho Chi Minh City for various violations. Petrolimex Taxi and Festival Taxi were also fined VND7.5 million each.

Both taxi companies were found mismanaging their drivers by not signing contracts with them while some of their taxis had painted colours and logos different from those registered with local agencies. Moreover, drivers were caught violating regulations when picking up passengers at the airport more than 70 times in 2011.

They have also halted the operation of 75 of the 181 Saigon Tourist taxis for selling their logos to another company.

After 100 years of ferrying people across the Saigon y River, the Thu Thiem. Ferry boat connecting Districts 1 and 2 officially closed operations at midnight on Dec. 31, 2011, reports Saigon n Giai Phong.

Of late, the number of passengers using the ferry had reduced significantly after ter the construction and opening g of the Thu Thiem Bridge and d Thu Thiem Tunnel, as well ass the development of the Thu Thiem new urban project.

MINIMUM WAGE TO BE RAISED?

MAN SLEEPS IN PLANE ENGINE A man was found sleeping in an airplane’s wing engine before its takeoff in Dak Lak. Le Van Man, 30, entered the Buon Ma Thuot Airport while no security guards were on duty at the runway’s north side.

The man told police that he got drunk and broke the airport’s barrier before climbing onto an airplane’s engine to sleep. He was only detected by the crew of the A320 airplane of the state-owned Vietnam Airlines, when it was about to take off for Hanoi.

The Ministry of Transport’s inspectorate fined the Southern Airports Corporation’s branch, which manages the airport, VND25 million, Tuoi Tre reported.

14 | The Word February 2012

AN ABSENCE OF LIBIDO IN VIETNAM Doctors say sterility and libido absence have been reported in many young Vietnamese men, including newlyweds and those between 28 and 30 years old.

Binh Dan Hospital receives more than 200 men with physiological conditions every day, and the average age of patients reporting these conditions is getting younger. The average age for sexual desire disorder in women has also gone down to age 32, according to figures from the hospital. Women, between 20 to 29 years old, account for most of the conditions, at nearly 41 percent.

The disorder has badly affected many marriages and lives, as it is accompanied by depression and sleep disorders in women, especially those older than 40, doctors said.

Doctors blamed the overuse of tobacco and alcohol, and the lack of physical activity for a lack of a libido at an early age in Vietnam. Stress and heavy weight are also identified as contributors to the problem.

Officials have suggested Vietnam state office workers receive a minimum wage of VND3.15 million per month starting in 2013.

As of May 2012, the minimum wage for the workers will be raised from VND830,000 a month to VND1.05 million, still lower than the current minimum wages in the business sector, which are between VND1.4 to VND2 million.

Doan Cuong, director of the Department of Labour and Salaries at the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, said that “the salaries of state office workers must be put relevant to the average income on the market. There will be corruption otherwise.”

February 2012 The Word | 15

Word of Mouth

WEEKEND YOGA RETREAT Experienced registered Yoga Teacher (E-RYT) Suzanne Vian of Saigon Yoga is offering an all inclusive weekend yoga retreat at Mia Resort in Mui Ne this month. Held from Feb. 24 to Feb. 26, the retreat costs VND7,980,000 and includes transport to and from Mui Ne, all meals and accommodation.

For more information and to register, contact Suzanne at suzanne@saigonyoga.com

BRITISH COUNCIL ARTS FUND Five projects have been selected by the British Council to receive a financial grant from the British Council Arts Fund (BCAF).

Established in July 2011, the fund aims to support artists and arts organisations in Vietnam and to enhance collaborative practice between Vietnam and United Kingdom while promoting understanding of the two cultures.

The selected projects funded in Phase 1 all demonstrated multi-information channels, interaction and have a high impact on the community, including Training and Practice of Devising Theatre & Exploring Power Struggle between Women and Men with Devised theatre by Phan Y Ly, an Online Short Film Festival (YxineFF) by Vu Quynh Ha, a photography project titled Limited by Phan Thanh Quang, The Third Vietnam Caricature Prize — Rong Tre Cup of the Culture & Sport Newspaper, and a visual art exhibition called The Pedestrians by a group Vu Khanh Van, Le Hien Minh, Nguyen Thuy Hang, Ly Tran Quynh Giang, Nguyen Kim To Lan. For more information on applying for BCAF funding visit www.britishcouncil.org/ vietnam-arts-british-council-arts-fund-2.htm

EMIRATES TO LAUNCH HO CHI MINH CITY FLIGHTS Emirates continues its expansion in Southeast Asia with the addition of direct flights from Dubai to Ho Chi Minh City from Jun. 4.

The Middle Eastern airline will use an Airbus A330200 in a two-class configuration on the route to Ho Chi Minh City, which is set to become the airline’s 124th destination. From Oct. 28 this service will be operated by a Boeing 777-300 ER in a two-class configuration.

Flights will depart Dubai International Airport at 9.25am and arrive at Tan Son Nhat International Airport at 7.20pm. Fares have yet to be announced.

From 9AM to 8PM - 13 NGO DUC KE - District 1 - HCM

diabolo

16 | The Word February 2012

the talk

WIRED SPOTTED What is it with this obsession of photographing everything you eat? You hear stories about people not being able to take a bite of a sandwich before pausing for a quick photo or men leaving their wives at restaurant tables to run home and grab the proper camera lens to capture a meal.

Perhaps the proper reason is that we are in an era of foodies and camera phones.

And now with the website and iPhone application www. foodspotting.com, things have gone a touch further. Here you can search dining spots near you and recommend your favourite dishes to others.

TONNES OF BOOKS Snap Café’s free book-exchange has now grown to over 1,000 books. A community resource that promotes the sharing of a good read, the twofor-one free exchange of foreign language books has grown from around 40 books when started mid-last year to over 1,000 books today.

Consisting of mostly English language reference, educational, travel and children’s books, novels and guides, the exchange is steadily gathering more French and other foreign language hard and soft backs.

The book exchange is located at the front of Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2).

WHITEN YOUR TEETH FOR LESS HOMEWARE SALE To celebrate the interior furnishing and homeware store’s first anniversary, Diabolo (13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1) is offering a 10 to 30 percent discount off its entire range of stock from now until Feb. 29.

Products, which include contemporary and colourful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives and vases, are drawn for the greater part

by European designers and made in Vietnam.

Smile Dental Center (173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7) is offering a teethwhitening promotion from Feb. 1 to Mar. 31.

Those with stained or dull-looking chompers that buy one session using Smile’s new whitening machine, which claims to produce whiter and more effective results, will receive a coupon for a second session free of charge. The coupon is valid for one month and can only be used by one person.

For more information, contact Smile Dental Center on 5413 6634 or visit www.smiledental-vn.com

A bit like Twitter, you start following people. This can be anyone from Anthony Bourdain in his food travels around the world to local Hanoians to see what delicacies they are chatting about.

This city is all about discovering the best and most unheard of dishes and you can search “Hanoi” and find out what’s eating around town. You can also create your own profile so that your friends back home who are into the Vietnamese food craze can be jealous that you get to eat real pho every day.

So now off to find the deepfried soft shell crabs with salted egg yolk that Dor spotted at Nam Phuong (19 Phan Chu Trinh).

18 | The Word February 2012

A TRENDY PROMOTION From now until Feb. 29, trendy Thai fashion boutique Ethophen (89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1) is offering customers the chance to receive a 10 percent cash voucher off all second purchases after spending VND200,000 on their first bill.

Also, during this period, for every purchase totalling VND3 million, shoppers will receive an Ethophen membership card, which entitles members to 10 percent off all purchases, as well as one nail service voucher and one free beverage voucher. Customers that spend VND10 million will also receive a membership card, and two nail service vouchers and two free beverage vouchers.

For more information, call 3825 8325

February 2012 The Word | 19

FEBRUARY CALENDAR TUE

MON

WED 01

Saigon Players Club. 7pm every first Wed. of the month at La Habana

THU 02

06

Free Beer Mondays. 6pm to 7.30pm every Mon. at BoatHouse

VND42,000 Bacardi and Coke, VND160,000 jugs of Mojito.

5pm every Mon. at Le Pub Tapas Fiesta & Wine through the night.

7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

13

Chicken & Rob Combo for VND200,000. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hog’s Breath

20 Salsa classes at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with “Carmen & Brothers” at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana Happy Hour with house wine, beer and complementary appetisers. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

27

07

VND21,000 Vodka drinks. 5pm every Tue. at Le Pub

BBGV’s Drinks Night. 6pm to 8pm at Vasco’s. Visit www.bbgv. org for info Marie Vermeulin at IDECAF. Call 3822 5841 for more iinfo

14 1 4

Valentine’s DayChampagne Celebration with Jordan Howard. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

y at Hog’s Breath.

Valentines Day Ladies receive free chocolate dessert if you dine with your boyfriend

21

20 | The Word February 2012

PPure. ur 9pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

15 1 5

Chilli Tuesdays. Get two bowls for VND200,000 at Hog’s Breath

28

Ladies Night. 8pm every Tue. at The Amber Room

Underground with Dj Jordan Howard at Blanchy’s Tash Blind Test. 9pm every Tue. at Ala Mezon

Open Mic Nite at La Habana at 7pm, visit www.mic-oi.com for more info

Esther Flatters and The Jazz Hats perform at Flo, Equatorial Hotel. 9pm to 12am from Sun. to Thu and 9pm to 1am every Fri. & Sat.

29

Grilled American Rib Eye & Pork Riblet combo for VND400,000.

Every Thu. at Hog’s Breath

09

Ladies’ Night. Every Thu. at Bootleg

Juicy with Kaiser T. 9pm every Thu. at Blanchy’s Tash

S Salsa classes at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every J Thu. at La Habana T

16

The Year Ahead: Executive Summary and Outlook 2012. From Feb. 7 to Feb. 17 at New World. Email hcmc@ canc canchamvietnam.org for details

Blues Brothers. 9.30pm at Vasco’s L di ' Day D y - free f drink d i k for f ladies. l di Ladies' T Every Tue. att Tamago

Live Music. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien

The first steak and Ale combo fo for VND200,000. Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

22 2

Jenny Santiago’s acoustic night.

8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana Happy Hour with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

08

Deutschentreff at Brotzeit, Kumho Link.

Visit www.gba-vietnam. org for info

Human Traffic 1999. 7.30pm at Snap, free entrance

FRI RI 03

Matt Willis. 8pm every Wed. at Sugar Bowl Jazz Ladies Night with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Feb. 13 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

SAT 04 0 4

Trick Art. From Dec. 1 to Feb. 10 at Thien Son Plaza (800 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7)

XXL with Djs Dan K, Konka and Kaiser T. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

10

Happy Hour. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

Yakitori/BBQ - prices range Y ffrom VND15,000 to VND49,000/ per skewer. Every Wed. & Thu. p night at Tamago n

La pura eleganza dell’autentico espresso italiano rivive nell’aroma di

Punto

tostatura

Scott Brantley on Percussion.

8pm every Fri. at Elbow Room & every Tue. at O’Brien’s

24

Mr. 10, Navin, Icee & Justin Murta. 9.30pm every Sat at Xu

Maeve & Dave. 9.30pm every Fri. at Thi Café Happy Hour at Hog’s Breath.

5pm to 7pm Mon. to Fri. with a draught beer for VND30,000 Friday Fiesta. 9pm at La Habana

Court Metrage M D’animation. 3pm D’anima at IDEC IDECAF Know Your Finances Workshop. 1.30pm to 3pm at TWM Saigon. Email Karin. eisenbach@t-wm.com for details

25

Happy Hour. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha

Mademoiselle Chambon. 3pm at IDECAF

Randy Cataluna. 8.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien & from Thu. to Sun. at Universal

Espresso.

La

preserva

le

sua raffinata miscela e garantisce il

piacere

del

sapore

dell’Italia. Punto Italia Espresso: un capolavoro italiano.

The elegance of the authentic AN ANZAC Boot Camp. Feb. 11 & 12 at Vung Tau. Call Phil on 093 30 303 2296 for info

Andalucia. 3pm pm at IDECAF

18 1 8

Friday drinks. 4pm every Fri. at Vino

12

Italia lenta

caratteristiche e la dolcezza della

Black Sauce. 9pm every Sat. at La Fenetre Soleil

Bash @ Tash with special guest Dj Mark Jolly. 9pm at Blanchy’s y’s Tash

Happy Hour. From 5pm to 9pm every day at Bacchus Corner

3 + 1. 8pm every Sun. at Juno Corner (76 Mac Dinh Chi)

Saigon Swing Club and Relaxing Night with Carmen & Brothers. 7pm every Sun. at La Habana

11

Heineken Bucket of 6. Grab a bucket of extra-long neck Heinekens for VND94,500. Every day at ZanZBar

17

Happy Hour - Half Price Drinks.

5.30pm to 8.30pm from Mon. to Fri. at Xu

05

tutto

Alex Millan.

7pm at IDECAF. Free entrance en

23

Weekend Brunch at Hog’s Breath. 9am to 2.30pm Feb. 4 & 5. Buckets of Corona & Sapporo promos

SUN

19

Live music with BBQ. Every Sun. night at Ala Mezon

Sunday Paellas & Happy Hour.

12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana Happy Hour. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

26 Leyote Taylor.

11pm from Mon. to Fri. at MZ & 10pm every Sat. at Thi Café

Italian espresso unfolds in the aroma of Punto Italia Espresso.

The slow fire-roasting preserves the characteristics and sweetness of the refined blend, guaranteeing the pleasure of the real taste of Italy.

Punto

Italia

Espresso:

an Italian masterpiece.

SCENE

Participants of the Saigon branch of the Canon 48-Hour Film Project Vietnam saw their hard work recognised at the Saigon Opera House with an awards ceremony that saw Yeti’s Turtle Soup win Best Film

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

OVER

CANON 48-HOUR FILM PROJECT AWARDS

HIRO SANADA AT ROCKFANCLUB BAR

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

Japanese guitarist Hiro Sanada and his band headlined RFC Bar with a goth-new wave set, alongside garage punk rock band Hell Of The Pest, new wave rock group Ideal and ‘mods sound’ band The Pash

Dowtown Saigon saw in 2012 with a neon-tastic display of lights and decorations on Nguyen Du

22 | The Word February 2012

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

NEW YEAR’S LIGHTS

Insider

THE LOCAL FIXER / ALLEY TALK / TINY TALES FROM THE BIG CITY

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

24 | The Word February 2012

TALKING SHOP

The Local Fixer Scouting locations and procuring helicopters for movies and television shows are all in a day’s work for Trinh Tien Trung.

Words by Julian Ajello. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

T

he past decade has seen Vietnam’s international profile elevate right along with its economy and the number of people who visit each year. Among those taking notice are the myriad of TV shows in western countries who covet shooting in Vietnam for an array of subject matter ranging from cuisine to travel to motor vehicles. While these shows are eager to film here they are often unable to navigate the paperwork and logistics necessary to do so on their own.

Cue Trinh Tien Trung. Known as a local fixer, Trung helps foreign production companies traverse the obstacle course. Born in Halong City, Trung attended Hanoi Open University and studied to be a professional tour leader. He spent five years studying and working in Hanoi for various travel companies specialising in adventure tours that included activities like cycling, kayaking and hiking.

Trung moved to Ho Chi Minh City in 2006 and opened up Le Pub, a popular watering hole in the Pham Ngu Lao area with two other partners: one Australian and one British. It was with that same organisation, who at the time was also involved in a media production company, that he cut his teeth working as a local fixer. After learning the ropes he struck out on his own and started his own company called Sen Travel.

Sen Travel works with foreign production companies to arrange working permits, visas, location scouting, logistics and travel.

“This business can be a bit like fishing,” explains Trung. “Sometimes you just sit there with nothing going on and then all of a sudden you have work lined up for months with no breaks.” Stacking up the chores of procuring visas and permits while also trying to scout locations and arrange travel is a time consuming process that often requires Trung to delegate some of the work.

It also requires integrity — when the stars come to Vietnam there is often immense local interest. One of Trung’s jobs is to prevent information from leaking on where

celebrities are staying, what their filming schedule is and what locations are being used. Failure to keep the information under wraps can cause problems.

Sen Travel has some clients who are interested in making corporate and commercial videos, but the bulk of his clientele are western TV shows. Among them are Top Gear, BBC World News, Man vs Wild and many of Samantha Brown’s spots on the Travel Channel in the US as well as Dutch and Australian shows.

Depending on which story Trung recounts, he will drift from a slight chuckle to head

“I’m always under tremendous pressure to help these productions meet their schedules while dealing with the bureaucracy of getting things done in Vietnam.” shaking frustration. Among his favourite recollections is an Australian production team who requested a helicopter for use the following day. It fell to Trung to explain that there was no earthly way to pull that off and that the complications of arranging permits would mean that inside of a week was the best for which they could hope.

The Bear Minimum Sometimes, however, the fault is not with the lofty expectations of foreign production companies used to working under more

film-friendly conditions, but with his preparations. The first time Trung was contracted to work with Man vs Wild he thought he was asked to make sure that there would be suitable food and water available in the jungle for a bear to survive on its own. Thinking that a bear was fully capable of finding suitable food he didn’t need to prepare much. Or so he thought. It wasn’t until the team arrived that he realised his mistake. The show’s star, Edward Michael Grylis, goes by the nickname Bear.

“With such a busy schedule I don’t always get to research a show as much as I would like to.”

For those who harbour dreams of breaking into the business and starting their own venture Trung offers some advice.

“Grow your list of contacts and travel extensively to get to know the country well.”

He also encourages aspiring fixers to carry a camera and take a photo of anything that might be useful for a TV show, even if it’s years down the road.

“Being a local fixer can be quite frustrating at times,” says Trung. “I’m always under tremendous pressure to help these productions meet their schedules while dealing with the bureaucracy of getting things done in Vietnam.”

Despite the frustrations Trung enjoys what he does. He gets to work with interesting people like Brown, Grylis and Gordon Ramsey. He was also involved in one of the most lauded programmes to come out of Vietnam in the past few years — the Top Gear Vietnam Special. Presented by Jeremy Clarkson, Richard Hammond and James May, the three hosts drove from Saigon to Hanoi and then onto Halong Bay on a Minsk, a Honda Cub and a Piaggio Vespa.

While the footage and the final edit provided viewers with a unique insight into this country, by all accounts, putting the show together was a nightmare.

But this is all part of the job, and as Trung says, “What I love most about what I do is that I get to show Vietnam to the world.”

February 2012 The Word | 27

The balconies of the apartments run along the tops of one alley only to be extended as another tenant’s roof on the other end.

Staircases overlook entrances to even smaller alleys barely wide enough to fit a fat cat. An alley's alley? Is there even a phrase for that in English? The kids kicking their plastic soccer ball around plus the old lady who clearly fell asleep doing calisthenics on a park exercise machine both added a nice touch to the sunny courtyard.

A Saigon Shakedown By this time, it was clear that this alley has got style. The xe oms almost completely ignored us and the guy selling clams at the end of one alley had a magnificent eagle tattoo emblazoned across his back. We headed down an even smaller passageway in the maze and found a large gallery of seashells hanging from the canopy of a fish hotpot restaurant. Mental note, check this place out later.

The odd winding lanes finally deposited us at another end of Nguyen Trai. The final sweet spot is a shop built right into a tree — man and nature coexisting in style.

Somehow we’d missed the seafood place and it was getting dark. Walking back into the labyrinth and taking a left where we should’ve taken a right, we came upon a whole new area. We were famished but were delighted by the discovery of another courtyard. This one was discrete, a few benches under the shade of a big tree that looked onto several business buildings in the distance.

Retracing our steps we finally fell upon Oc Dao 1 (Hem 212B, Nguyen Trai, Q1). How could we have missed this? It's packed to the teeth with loud seafood revellers. A good sign because empty eateries usually have mediocre food with good service while crowded restaurants have excellent food with terrible service.

We squatted on small stools and ordered everything on the menu while chatting with the servers and inviting strangers to join us.

Apparently the chubby lady running the show first came to the big city over 15 years ago impoverished but found a way to fund the seafood shop by collecting garbage. A true rags to riches tale, and the final story that makes this alley come alive.

ALLEY TALK

Food Lover’s Lane When exploring hems ditch the bike, your feet are the only way to go. Minh Do hit the maze-like Alley 285 in search of a mythical seafood joint. Photos by EJ Chung

here have been verbal rumblings recently about a great seafood spot called Oc Dao nestled somewhere between “that alley over there” and District 1. So, with these vague directions in mind, we apprehensively headed over.

We started the search on what is the only entrance to the alley on 285 Nguyen Trai in District 1. Just minutes after entering the hem we were enveloped by hordes of napping hairdressers waiting to catch a stray lady in need of a hair wash and manicure. Oddly enough, a series of dog meat restaurants lined the same alley, along with an inconspicuous, hideaway-

T

28 | The Word February 2012

style tennis court.

It’s a common theory that alleyways are usually good shortcut options when the main streets are congested from bumper to bumper, but beware most hems in Vietnam aren't alleys; they’re more like mazes. You start on the edge of one street and run the risk of ending up in a completely different district. An entire block can host vibrant arteries full of underemployed middle-aged men playing chess and plump noodle ladies. We were hoping this wasn’t going to be the case for us, and prayed we wouldn’t end up in District 12. We

continued on, subtly avoiding the thit cho eateries. Through twists and turns, it's clear this is food lover’s lane — banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake), bo bia (rice paper rolls with daikon and sausage), banh mi (sandwiches), hai san (seafood) and bot chien (fried flour squares stir fried with scallion and eggs). The vendors and carts are aplenty.

It wasn’t long before we stumbled upon a courtyard framed by two apartment buildings. Here, the makeshift architecture is built to perfection. In a city bubbling with over 10 million souls, the skinny houses have to fit the alleys.

February 2012 The Word | 29

COVER STORY

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

PHOTO PROVIDED BY JOE NAFIS

T I N Y

BIG CITY 30 | The Word February 2012

With the world population now at seven billion and counting, Ho Chi Minh City is also continuing to grow.

Bubbling with somewhere around nine million souls, the development is feverish. All meaning that as fast food injected waistlines continue to multiply, the city expands its limits and land and space becomes scarce, much of life here will either have to downsize or get out of the way.

From stories about how grains of rice can turn

into a piece of art to a human tale of overcoming diversity, this great city is the sum of all its parts — the big buildings, the small challenges, the funny stories and the heartwarming people.

So this month we’re espousing all the grandeur and are instead celebrating the little things in life, the things that sometimes go unnoticed. As the overused cliché declares, bigger is not always better.

Conversely, size, at least in this instance, is everything.

Words by Stephanie Cantrell, James Allen and Christine Van PHOTOS by QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

February 2012 The Word | 31

T I N Y

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

B I G

C I T Y

T I N Y

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

B I G

C I T Y

Against THE GRAIN t doesn't get much smaller than a grain of rice. As a leading exporter of rice, Vietnam places a huge emphasis on the value of this miniature grain. However, rice is no longer being reserved simply as a food source.

Tranh Dat Hung Rice Gallery (244 bis Bui Vien, Q1) showcases an impressive array of rice paintings. Using a heating method to create a range of different colours, each grain of rice is individually applied to the painting in pale yellows, oranges and deep burnt browns. The completed paintings take several days to dry and are chemically treated to ensure longevity. The pictures are intricate, with subjects ranging from city landmarks such as Ben Thanh Market to depictions of various Buddhas and animals.

Customers can also submit their own designs to create a personalised piece of this miniature art form.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY JOE NAFIS

i

MINI ME s your biological clock ticking with a need to produce an offspring? A little you with the same eye and hair colour?

Well, Mini You (3 Le Quy Don, Q3) is the answer to all your prayers. Two designers, based in Hong Kong, create the intricate models using a photograph you submit, and the likeness is eerie.

With an impressive array of skin tones and hair colour, the hand-painted models are surprisingly realistic, albeit a little unnerving.

Produced by Big Mac Advertising Production (no relation to McDonald’s), the company promises a 70 to 80 percent degree of resemblance with prices starting at VND1.3 million. At present, most products are simply for decoration, though there are plans to create a range of useful products such as piggy banks and containers.

TINY TOWN

I

32 | The Word February 2012

n an awe-inspiring tribute to Ho Chi Minh City, Californian creative director, Joe Nafis, created a video called Miniature City HCMC while working in Saigon as a teacher in 2009. Using a Canon A540 and the tilt-shift effect in Photoshop, the video shows a montage of sights of the city from various views designed to make Saigon look like a city for ants.

The video shows the city in sped-up time throughout the day, with shots concentrating on the bustling traffic, boats on the river, a Tai Chi class in the park and preparation for the Ben Thanh Night Market. All the shots are taken from above.

“I went from rooftop to rooftop around the city trying to find the best views,” says Joe. “I shot from hotel terraces,

I

restaurants, balconies and any other rooftop I could get access to. From the highest ones I could see other terraces and angles that would add interest to the video and explored around until I found what I was looking for.”

The inspiration for the video was filmmaker and photographer Keith Loutit’s Bathtub series, which altered iconic scenes from Sydney, Australia into miniature toy lands. Loutit is considered the pioneer of the time-shift and time-lapse technique that creates the illusion of a miniature world. Joe’s end result was worth the time he committed to the video and after watching it, Saigon residents will never again view the city the same way.

Photos above by Joe Nafis.You can view the video at www. youtube.com. Do a search for miniature hcmc or miniature saigon

February 2012 The Word | 33

T I N Y

T A L E S

F R O M

T H E

B I G

C I T Y

T I N Y

IN LOVING MEMORY

F R O M

T H E

B I G

C I T Y

A CLOSE SHAVE 9-year-old Son has been shaping heads in his self-titled cubicle for 10 years. Despite only having enough room for a barber chair that reclines right out onto the street, he still manages to attract an array of international customers, some coming from as far away as Switzerland. With services ranging from ear cleaning to a sharp razor shave and head massages, for both men and women, this place is a salon in its own right.

"Tet is a busy time for me so, sometimes I'll set up a couple of extra chairs on the sidewalk to accommodate the rush," says Son of his holiday expansion. “That’s also when my assistant comes to help out; he cuts women’s hair as I’m not too good with that.”

Opening hours sees him unhinging the door to his 2sqm shop and laying it outside on the pavement before reattaching it again come closing time. Space is scarce here; his mini boom box is a testimony to that.

4

n Quan Am Pagoda (12 Lao Tu, Q5), hundreds of little golden triangular thap cot (or memorials) line tiers of conical revolving towers. Smaller than the size of your palm, these monuments are illuminated with epithets of the deceased. As the towers spin, you will see foreign as well as Vietnamese names among the rising incense, every thap cot serving as an eternal reminder of bygone loved ones.

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HELL'S KITCHEN fiery hotplate takes up half of the dining space in this hole-in-the-wall Japanese joint. Banh Xeo Nhat Ban (15b Le Thanh Ton, Q1) can sit 18 comfortably — four little tables and six daring seats in the line of fire — but any more and you’ll likely be knocking elbows with your fellow diners.

With two cooks wedged into a three-foot space between the wall and grill, and with the steaming heat and deft hands swinging knives within inches of your nose, you’ll feel like you’re eating in Hell’s Kitchen (but without the displeasure of having to look at Gordon Ramsay). This is a teppanyaki place, so don’t expect sushi or sashimi on the menu but rather delicious yakisoba, elaborate omelets, hearty miso soup, sliced beef steamed in wine and more.

It’s also a no-nonsense eatery where you’ll see old Japanese expats satisfying their hunger after a day at the office while listening to Japanese news broadcast from the overhead radio.

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THE WARRIOR PRINCESS ike so many of her canine compatriots around this city, don’t let her 25cm height fool you. Xena lives up to her namesake and is fierce; and yes, her bite is worst than her bark. A teenager in dog years, she resides with her owner Eric in an apartment in District 1. Having grown up with big dogs his whole life, Eric knew it was unrealistic to own one in the city so opted for a Chihuahua instead.

“I take her with me everywhere I go. Most shops and restaurants allow her in because she’s so small and can easily hide under the table. She’s even been in the seat next to me on a few bus trips to Muine,” he says.

With short legs, this princess can keep in shape and get all her exercise with just a quick walk around the block, which is great a considering the lack of parks and pavement space in this town.

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GROWING PAINS POCKET ROCKETS aster than a speeding mouse and about the same size, these pocket rockets are miniature gas (or electric) powered bikes that look like small replicas of full-sized motorcycles.

Despite their tiny size (roughly .6096metre high, weighing around 18kg), mini-motos usually come equipped with at least 40cc 2-stroke engines and can reach speeds of up to 74km to 80km per hour with performance parts added.

The bikes are popular in the racing circuits in Hong Kong and the States. You can find them at www.motomini.com.vn with prices ranging from VND7 million to VND35 million.

PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

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ractised over a thousand years ago in China and then later adopted by the Japanese, bonsai is the art of dwarfing ordinary plants or trees and most range in height from 5cm to 1 metre.

Bonsai are kept small and trained to grow a certain way by pruning branches and roots, by periodic repotting, by pinching off new growth, and by wiring the branches and trunk so that they grow into the desired shape.

Given proper care, bonsai can live for hundreds of years, with prized specimens being passed from generation to generation, admired for their age, and revered as a reminder of those who have cared for them over the centuries.

For budding enthusiasts, a bonsai can be purchased starting from VND30,000, although the top specimens cost millions.

Head to Plant Street — Truong Son in District 10. Alternatively there are a few roadside plant shops at the start of Nguyen Huu Canh in District 1, just before you get to the bridge heading into Binh Thanh.

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he preferred wardrobe for girls trying to stay cool in the Saigon heat.

These lyrics from the song Short Shorts by The Royal Teens pretty much sums it up:

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PHOTO BY PHILIP BURNETT / WWW.PHOTOPHIL.US

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Who wears short shorts We wear short shorts They're such short shorts We like short shorts Who wears short shorts We wear short shorts

ocated down a winding alley, Princess and the Pea (63/18 Pasteur, Q1) is a miniscule gem of a café.

Three floors up, customers deposit their shoes in the hallways and enter the tiny dining area. With purple floor cushions and tiny foot-high square tables, you feel enormous as you park yourself on the floor and peruse their miniature library displaying an array of books on low shelving.

The menu has an impressive collection of smoothies and cocktails as well as a very simple food selection consisting of sandwiches, cakes and a few Vietnamese dishes. For a quiet afternoon, Princess and the Pea is an excellent choice. What it lacks in size, it more than makes up for with its quirky décor and affordable refreshments.

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A PIECE OF CAKE A SMALL TOKEN

ownsizing doesn’t always have to be bad, especially when it comes to calories. And no-one knows that better than the duo behind cupcake bakery and café Cakewalk (84 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1).

For those not in the know, cupcakes are the latest trend in the west, even spawning a reality TV show called Cupcake Wars.

So Helena and Lara, recognising their popularity, decided to quit their day jobs to devote their time to this tasty treat and introduce it to Saigon. These girls have even created monthly look-books showcasing flavours such as Ravishing Red Velvet and Bold Black Forest.

Their newest pièce de résistance is an inch in diameter, and less than half the calorie count of a regular cupcake. It can only be specially ordered, but it’s perfect for birthday parties, baby showers or just to keep in your fridge when you get the munchies but are still watching your waistline.

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ocated on the corner of Bui Vien and Do Quang Dao, Tam Tam is one of the city’s smallest souvenir shops. The interior of this narrow closet is filled with over 1,000 trinkets and other wares spilling out onto the sidewalk. And with barely enough room for the shelves that have managed to be constructed inside the shop, the owner, Tam, can only sit outside to allow for a few customers at a time to browse. He’s also quick to tell us that everything has its place and he knows exactly where everything is.

“Right now I weigh about 75kg, if I get any fatter I’m going to have to expand the shop,” Tam laughs.

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A VIEW TO A ROOM This room and the small storage space above is all that is left of the larger house retired fish seller Le Thi Huynh Hoa grew up in 60 years ago. With the rest of it sold, she, now 63, resides in this two metres wide room, complete with neon draped deities and brightly decorated walls.

Hoa is able to find a place for everything and all her creature comforts and amenities are within arm’s reach, including the small outdoor toilet-cum-storage closet right outside her front door. Situated in a miniscule hem on Co Giang next to a number of guest houses, Hoa is no stranger to the attention her little room receives. But with a handy lightweight curtain to pull across the opening, she can enjoy the breeze and a little bit of privacy.

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LET IT SLIDE ancy meets fast-food in the form of a fun little burger — there’s no supersizing at this restaurant.

Mini burgers or sliders were made famous by White Castle in the US, especially in the 1960s, and were traditionally square, miniature beef patties on soft steamed buns with onions and a pickle. But the style conscious chefs at Xu (75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) have managed to reshape and reconceptualise them into a 4cm wide bread roll with a beef patty, two layers of zingy ginger chutney and a single rau hue leaf.

These beauties offer more substance than their size suggests and for VND110,000 you will get you a plate of four. And while we don’t recommend replacing it with the olive in your martini, they do complement the drink well.

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LITTLE PEOPLE,

BIG STORIES hang has just graduated from university with a degree in graphic multimedia. He is 21-years-old, forthright and friendly, quick to assert himself and is becoming quite proficient in English. He’s your normal Vietnamese guy but for one factor — Khang, like his father Dai, is a little person, although his mother and younger brother are of average height. Both father and son took some time out of their busy schedule to tell us that “being different is a just a state of mind”.

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WHEN DID YOU FIRST REALISE YOU WEREN’T LIKE OTHER PEOPLE? When I was very young, I was the same as the other children; it was at 10 years old when I noticed that I was different. I didn’t think about it because I felt normal and confident, and I wasn’t shy about it, but sometimes people looked at me strangely.

But as I hadn’t done anything wrong, I had nothing to be ashamed of.

WHAT CHANGES DID YOU NOTICE? I was the same age as my classmates, but they kept on growing. They didn’t care though; they loved me and protected me from other people in school. I also noticed that my friends played a lot of sports while I could only play a little even though I loved soccer, so when I couldn’t join in, my parents would take me to the park to play in the playground with my brother.

WHAT IS THE SITUATION IN VIETNAM FOR PEOPLE LIKE YOU? Dai (Khang’s father): It depends on many kinds of people, some people look at us and understand it, they can be friendly and will talk a lot. Some people look down on us; they don’t think we can do anything, that we are just handicapped.

Khang: It’s not all difficult; it’s 50 percent bad, 50 percent good. Getting a job is difficult, the companies want to recruit taller people, I don’t know why, not everyone can work, but I can work and to a good standard.

They call us dwarves, but there is another term — Chu Lun — it’s not a nice word. ‘Chu’ is like ‘Mr’ and ‘Lun’ is a bit like ‘short’. So I get called Mr Short. When I hear people use it, it annoys me. It’s impolite.

WHAT DO YOU WANT TO DO IN THE FUTURE KHANG? KHANG: I want to be a graphic designer, because the job would allow me to stay at home so I wouldn’t have to travel. It would be great to be a freelancer. I could get the order at home and work from there. I also really want to study further in the US and maybe get a job there.

Dai: It will be good for him to go to the

IS IT DIFFICULT HAVING AN AVERAGE SIZED BROTHER?

US. I spent some time there myself and I saw a lot of good things for people like us.

People are more helpful and there are more opportunities for little people.

Our parents have always loved us equally, and I love my brother but yes sometimes I think about how my brother seems to have everything — a good body, a lot of girlfriends, he can even ride a bike.

Sometimes I want to go places, but I can’t.

Khang: I think there is more respect for people like me in America. I would live with my grandparents in Chicago. I also want a girlfriend, I have fancied a few girls here, but they said no! [laughs].

HAVE YOU MET A LOT OF OTHER PEOPLE LIKE YOU HERE? Sometimes when I go out I see other people like me. I sympathise with them because they are like me and are in the same situation as me. There is an association for little people here, for them to meet and share their experiences. They are like me and we have a lot in common. I really want to go, but it’s difficult because when I want to go I

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must have another person take me.

HOW DO YOU THINK THE SITUATION FOR LITTLE PEOPLE HERE IS CHANGING? Dai: The situation for little people in Vietnam hasn’t changed too much since I was younger. I have heard of projects and organisations for us, but I have yet to feel the benefit. We will see. Life is changing almost every year in Vietnam and in a good way.

It’s still difficult to see what will happen in the future, though.

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BUSINESS

THE YEAR AHEAD 2011 was tough. So how can business expect to fare over the coming year? Words by Nick Ross

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s we enter 2012, Ho Chi Minh City is in strange shape. On the one hand, the entertainment, retail and dining industries are expanding by the day. The international brands are continuing to forge their generic way into this emerging market and from nowhere, more malls are sprouting roots.

Even restobars with investment totaling over VND40 billion have started to appear.

Saigon, it seems, is riding high. The champagne is uncorked and the good times are here.

And yet talk to business owners and they will universally hark back to a terrible three-month period last summer. One well-known, well-established entrepreneur made only a fifth of his projected profit last year and during the three ugly months at the beginning of the rainy season he made a loss. He was lucky. Out of the ether high revenue in November and December saved his proverbial bacon and now he has good hopes for 2012. But elsewhere, times are more difficult and many well-established businesses are making cuts. And this is in an economy that is said to be growing at over five percent a year.

So, what’s the rub? And with 2011 proving such an odd year for the fortunes of this city, what is in stall for the Year of the Dragon?

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Ying But No Yang The issue that continues to affect Vietnam is uncertainty. There are so many imbalances in the economy that planning — a complex task at the best of times — can often be nigh on impossible. Although foreign direct investment (FDI) and overseas aid has been affected by the global meltdown, elsewhere the country has survived largely unscathed.

Except, that is, for all these imbalances.

Take the housing market. With so few avenues open for investment in Vietnam and the uncertainty created by the rising cost of living, prices have rocketed.

According to an employee of Colliers, land in District 1’s Nguyen Thai Binh Street is presently weighing in at around VND300 million a square metre. Compare this to the average price for a three-bedroom house in Islington in North London set on 150sqm of land. The property in London, says londonpropertywatch.co.uk, weighs in on average at around VND162 million per sqm, close to half the price of its Vietnam equivalent.

Such an imbalance then transfers itself tself to rent. In London, this is the cost that is astronomic, but it’s in proportion to the value of the property. In Ho Chi Minh City, except for a period from 2007 to 2009 when office rents sky rise rocketed to VND1.5

million or even VND2 million a square metre there is now such an oversupply of real estate that rents, inevitably, are out of sync with the value of the land. Now says CBRE, Grade A office space in downtown Saigon costs an average of VND675,000 a sqm while Grade B space goes for VND380,000. The equivalent in London would be twice the price.

The lack of equilibrium then

stretches itself into other areas. At one point last year, prices were rising by over 20 percent. The resulting high interest rates have made formal borrowing almost impossible — without borrowing it is difficult for business to invest and expand.

And with such high interest rates, many past borrowers have been unable to repay their loans.

Then there is the balance of payments.

Despite Vietnam’s much lauded ability on the export market — textiles as well as raw materials such as coffee, oil and pepper are presently leading the way — there is such a low, domestic-driven esteem for Vietnamese-made products, that locally, the tendency is to buy imported goods.

More importantly is the need to import oil derivatives and gasoline as well as materials and machinery for the huge levels of construction now taking place. All this once again leads to a lack of equilibrium.

Vietnam likes to wallow in its newfound wealth, but the downside is that the country is presently running a large balance of payment deficit.

Confidence There are a host of other imbalances to add to the mix, all with varying importance, and depending on the level of spin, it would be easy to be negative. Indeed, talk to members of the business community in Hanoi and many preach an onslaught of doom and tropical gloom. m With their fingers closer to the thought ought pro processes that shape and mould thiss country, the they believe that measures are shortly going to be taken that will shackle this growing economy in an attempt to create

equilibrium. All making the outlook for 2012 inexorably dark.

But such an outlook was predicted a year ago. And while we did have that summer of discontent, it wasn’t an annus horribilis.

It was a struggle, yes, but it was nowhere near as dire as everyone predicted. And ultimately, according to CBRE, economic growth last year in this city was at 10.3 percent, over four points higher than the national average.

The biggest worry was not just rising prices but all the uncertainty. Without knowledge of what the short, medium or long-term will bring, it’s difficult to plan.

The result, as happened last year, was that business stopped spending. Everyone was sidewalking their bets and waiting for the self-fulfilling prophecy to be fulfilled.

Consumer and business confidence has an exponential effect on the economy, and in this instance it reared its pockmarked head.

And so, when decision-makers realised that the outlook wasn’t all that dark, and with pre-allotted budgets still in place, they started to spend again. Our well-known entrepreneur was one of the recipients.

Middle Income While the uncertainties remain, much in Ho Chi Minh City is certain. And if anything is going to drive this metropolis in 2012 it’s the growing middle class. With the rise of India and China, say Ernst & Young, income-wise two billion people around the world are now ‘middle class’. By 2030 this will rise to five billion. Vietnam, as a rising economy, has a share in this exponential growth — according to some recently

released figures, 10 percent of the country’s population now sit in that coveted middle income bracket. That’s nine million people to you and me, not a bad figure for a country with a largely rural population.

And of course, it’s the middle class that have the spending power. Literacy levels are close to 100 percent, they are better educated and more travelled than their compatriots. They read the international news, have more worldly tastes, like to eat out, shop and spend, read magazines such as Cosmopolitan and Nam, have iPhones or iPads, and are the consumers of the future.

Which all looks rosy for Apple as well as all those restaurants, bars and shopping malls out there. If, that is, they can get their target market right. The middle class may have money to spend, but they also like value. Which means luxury, while both fashionable and an attraction, is not going to make their world go round.

And as for all the other businesses struggling out there, two messages need to be taken on board. First, the only thing that is certain about this country today is uncertainty. So, keep your fingers on the pulse but don’t listen to the predictions of doom and tropical gloom and all those rumours — last year’s extrapolations failed to come to fruition. But more importantly, in tough times it’s important to make sure that your business is firing on all of its four-stroke cylinders. Being negative will ensure that the self-fulfilling prophecy will be fulfilled. It is no mistake that in times of darkness, there are many businesses that manage to excel. As rings the chorus of Billy Ocean’s 1980s hit, “When the going gets tough, the tough get going”.

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“For example, we wouldn’t place a hyperactive cat or dog with a family with young children.

We use the information people give us to match families to an appropriate pet"

GIMME SHELTER Stephanie Cantrell speaks to an animal rescue shelter committed to the plight of stray cats and dogs in Ho Chi Minh City

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stablished in September 2010, Animal Rescue & Care (A.R.C.), an animal rescue and care centre, is tackling the issue of pet abandonment and abuse in Ho Chi Minh City. The initiative to form the shelter came after two women found some stray kittens on the street, took them home and then tried to find new homes for them. The basic idea grew bigger and bigger, eventually evolving into the animal shelter and adoption programme that exists today.

Since being established, they have rescued between 40 and 50 dogs and over 150 cats. The organisation relies solely upon donations and volunteers to operate, and currently enlists the work of about 40 volunteers with minor to major commitments to the shelter. Volunteer work includes advertising, adoption and fostering liaison as well as basic daily care at the shelter such as cleaning, feeding and dog-walking.

When Dr Nguyen Van Nghia, a veterinary surgeon who trained at the University of Bristol, UK, heard about the programme, he offered to help. The doctor administers treatment to the rescued animals, including a neutering programme,

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vaccinations and de-fleaing and deworming treatments. Some of these services are provided free of charge and the rest, A.R.C pays for with donation funds.

The centre receives animals from people who find them on the street, though Dzesika Terzic, a representative for the shelter, insists that it is “not a shelter for dumping animals”. To this end, A.R.C does not list its address on the website in an attempt to avoid people leaving stray animals outside the clinic. Instead, people can call the shelter and a representative can decide how best to help them. Dzesika says that their rescue programme may be unique in Vietnam. There are dog pounds in the city though the animals are often euthanised after a few days if they are not claimed.

A.R.C runs a number of programmes aimed at eliminating excessive breeding amongst cats and dogs in Saigon. SpayIt-Forward advocates spaying animals to reduce the number of unwanted kittens and puppies. The Hello Kitty Feral Cat Programme focuses on the plight of feral cats (wild cats that cannot adapt to life in a family home) with a trap-neuter-return policy.

Cats are captured and treated for illness or

injury, vaccinated against rabies and sterilised. They are then ear-tipped and returned to the same location. Friendly kittens and mature cats are recruited into the adoption programme and placed in new homes.

Adoption and Fostering Dzesika holds interviews with potential owners and aims to place animals with owners who best meet their needs. “We veto people for suitability,” She explains. “For example, a few months ago a young guy came to the shelter as he was interested in adopting a dog. When I asked him if he already had any pets at home he explained that he has 15 dogs in his backyard! I asked him how he would walk the dogs and he said he doesn't walk them at all as they live in his backyard. This guy was definitely not suitable to adopt a dog.”

A.R.C also has a network of foster homes. Cats and dogs are sent to these homes on a temporary basis before they can find a permanent new family. This alleviates over-crowding at the shelter and offers animals more individualised care and social integration. English teacher, Eli, has fostered two dogs in the past year and has been caring for the current one, Bear, for almost six months. “It’ll be sad to see him go, but it’s been so rewarding having him with us,” he says. Foster parents pay for the pet’s living costs out of their own pockets, though any medical treatment foster animals need is covered by the shelter.

A.R.C aims to expand its efforts in the upcoming year and increase awareness and support for the centre. With increased funding, the shelter can continue to address its mission of helping abused and abandoned animals all over Ho Chi Minh City.

For more information on volunteering opportunities, or adoption or fostering a pet, visit www.arcpets.com or email arcfostadopt@gmail.com.

PHOTO BY PHILIP BURNETT / WWW.PHOTOPHIL.US

CHARITY CORNER

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DESTINATION

BATTAMBANG Nick Ross

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e’ve been blessed with glorious weather — after 14 hours of grueling bus travel split over two days it’s a relief. First there was the golden glow of the early morning sun spreading over the river. Then the clouds descended only for them to evaporate as we headed north towards the Angkorian era temple, Ek Phnom. Now as we detour by an abandoned Pepsi factory still sporting the iconic logo of old, the sky is blue, but with that welcome December chill in the tropical air.

This is Battambang, Cambodia’s second largest city. Despite its size it has the aura

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of a provincial, colonial-built backwater.

A decade ago, says Sopheara, a Siem Reap native, the streets still had the fading, timeless air of today but without all the shops. He points to the pre-1975 era shophouses lining the grid-like streets close to the market. “All the shutters were closed,” he says. “There was nothing to buy.”

He adds: “I remember going on the bamboo train. When the real train came along the tracks we had to get off and wait for it to pass.”

We haven’t done the bamboo train yet and Cambodia’s train system has since

been dismantled. But we’ve earmarked our train journey somewhat lazily into our plans for the next day. Life moves slowly in this city, and like the ambience that surrounds us, we, too, have put the brakes on our breakneck, modern metropolis speed. This is a place where time has done its best to stand still. Now, as witnessed by the growing number of mobile phone and electronics stores, hair salons and tourist restaurants, it’s trying to limp forward. It’s moving, but not very fast.

Putting the Bong into the Bang Ever since peace was finally declared in

1999, Cambodia has seen an exponential rise in international tourism. Setting Tomb Raider in Angkor Wat certainly helped, as have relatively cheap rents in the big cities, both colonial and post-colonial architecture and surprisingly relaxed business laws.

But the boom has focused itself on Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville.

Kampot and Kep have also had a look in, but beyond that, the towns and cities of this reawakened nation have remained largely untouched. Battambang — pronounced Batom-bong — due to its off-the-beaten-track location has fared badly. Until now.

Although requiring a detour from Siem Reap, a boat sporting to-die-for water vistas now transports passengers across the Tonle Sap to and from the temple complex of dreams. Like ourselves, most who make it to Battambang fall in love. Part of the reason is because of how unaffected this city still is. The service, as is typical of a place just opening its eyes to the outside world, is slow, and dishes ordered at the same time arrive out of sync. The western fare remains simple and dull, making the cheaper and tastier Khmer cuisine a welcome alternative. But that is only part of the charm. A few years will change all this, but for now it’s a pleasure to be able

to eat a hearty meal for under 10,000 riel (VND50,000) instead of being bombarded with eating and drinking establishments reserved for tourists. Try the Thaiinfluenced Khmer version of hu tieu Nam Vang (Chinese pork noodle soup) next to White Rose restaurant in town. It’s a step up from the version you get in Vietnam.

Father But Not Christmas In the Pepsi factory we’re allowed to wander. The caretaker, a toothless, uniformed old man who has probably witnessed more changes than he would care to count, let’s us in with a grudge. He’s not supposed to, as he tells us, and as we discover later many a tourist and tuk-tuk driver enter the complex without his leave.

They depart the same way, he says, without even a thank you. A thank you means a tip in Cambodia, which is as important as tourism itself. Without the dollar here, dollar there culture, the whole industry would fall apart. It takes its toll on the daily budget, but the locals view it as requisite.

The factory itself is locked up, but there are enough windows, gated entrances and crannies for us to peak inside. Except for a few families who have built shacks within the grounds, the building has been

deserted. For a while, we are told, it was converted into an ice factory — that was during Khmer Rouge times and in the conflict-created impasse that followed.

But now, except for an outhouse used as a garage and a section converted into a kitchen by a woman we guess from the shacks beyond, the commercial symbol of the west stands prey to the elements.

As we are close to leaving, some kids materialise on bicycles. They’re intrigued by our cameras and one, pulling a silly face, decides to pose. Then a young woman appears out of the undergrowth wearing a sarong and a Diet Coke t-shirt.

She’s unaware of the significance, of the incongruous nature of this moniker. There’s history here, but one that for the modernday Khmer has little meaning.

Trainspotting A few kilometres further on we have our second encounter with antiquity within a morning, but this time, one with a religious context. The complex of Ek Phnom will come as a let down for anyone swept off their tuk tuks by the grandeur of Angkor. But, as a temple in its own right it makes for a worthwhile trip. An enormous white-washed Buddha statue

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

"Life moves slowly in this city, and like the ambience that surrounds us, we, too, have put the brakes on our breakneck, modern metropolis speed. This is a place where time has done its best to stand still" 48 | The Word February 2012

sits close to the entrance which is also flanked by the typical but forever eye-catching Khmer-style pagoda. Cloaked in gold-painted dragons, sky-blue elephants, scenes from the life of Buddha and flowery concrete detailing, this is one of the more flamboyant versions carpeting the whole country.

While the Angkorian-style temple ruins sat behind mark the Cambodia of old, so this pagoda is the country of today. Both are endearing.

And yet as with all culturally significant tourist attractions in Cambodia, we are forced to pay for entrance while our Khmer friend goes in for free — local legs are good, foreign legs are better. On this occasion it’s only US$2 (VND42,000) to have the pleasure to wander around the site, and as we discover, our tickets are also valid for Phnom Sampov, the Killing Caves to the southeast of Battambang (we’re not actually give a ticket so we have to phone through to the guards to guarantee entrance). Regardless, it’s all part of a milking the festive calf process that can often leave an aftertaste, especially when the locals go for free. No matter how extensive the poverty in Cambodia, the discrimination is an unwelcome part of the trip, especially when the rich local elite also get their cultural kicks for free.

The bamboo train the next day is extortionate. On this occasion foreigners pay US$5 (VND105,000) per person to take a 14km train journey while locals also have to chip in — they get the trip for US$2 (VND42,000). Although we have to tip our driver, more dollars slipping through the tracks, it’s a worthwhile trip. This is, after all, the last train in Cambodia.

When we say train, let’s get something straight. The vehicle is essentially a bamboo platform seating six that is set on removable wheels with a motorbike engine. Imagine movies out of the Wild West where dodgy characters rig up a selfpropelled vehicle to take advantage of the train tracks and you get the idea. Except in this case, it all comes with a motor.

I have done the full range of attractions in this region.

I have waded out to sea to spend a drunken afternoon on a seafood farm, freewheeled 70km downhill, climbed mountains, potholed through bat-infested caves, swum above shipwrecks and scaled volcanoes. But this has to rank as the weirdest trip I have ever taken. It’s not that sitting on a hard bamboo platform under the glaring sun is particularly unpleasant. It’s just the lack of necessity of the whole venture, unless you want to act out a scene from the movie Brother, Wherefore Art Thou? Not even the countryside is particularly nice. And yet it’s fun, especially when competing trains try to pass from opposite directions. Whoever wins the give way battle stays on the line while the rival vehicle disassembles and moves off to the rails to the side. It’s a complex process.

Conversely, the million or so bats flying in tandem at sunset out of Phnom Sampov is one of the most awe-inspiring sights you will see in this region, as are the soaring views from the top of this limestone, karst-like mountain, that before The Mekong Delta silted up the land, would have been a Halong Bay-style island in the sea.

And this perhaps best defines Battambang. In places it is quite phenomenal, laced with intrigue and natural beauty.

And at other times it seems to lack or act as a drain on the wallet. But as a new, fully open destination in Cambodia, this town should be a key part of your itinerary.

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ocated in a restored French colonial-era villa in a quiet hem between the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Dien Bien Phu, the entrance to My Place resembles a quasi botanicalcum-Zen garden with ferns, coleus, devil’s ivy, bamboo and lotus leaves sprouting out around a short wooden track that gives way to an underglass fishpond walkway.

A Filipino singersongwriter croons his way through a number of bittersweet romantic ballads, complimenting the softly lit ambience and earthy tones of the interior. With upholstered cushioned stools in place of chairs, together with my dining partner I exhibited perfect posture to order a lychee martini and Tom Collins along with the roasted tomato soup with basil salsa and Parmesan cheese, and prawn cocktail to start.

Presented in a tall margarita glass, the latter starter consisted of five medium-sized, de-shelled grilled prawns placed along the rim of the glass with thinly sliced lime wedges, while the inside contained shreds of lettuce, a mixture of chopped and wedged tomatoes, and the cocktail sauce. It was a fine approximation of the British classic; with the slightly burnt chargrilled flavour of the prawns and sharp zest of the lime adding extra dimensions to the soft, sweetness of the terracotta-coloured sauce.

However, the tomato soup could only be described as neutral at best. It was wholesome but very mild and lacked any seasoning. The basil salsa, Parmesan, and even basic salt and pepper were undetectable.

Luckily, our cocktails were superb. The

MYSTERY DINER

My Place

Finishing with an order of Belgian waffles with chocolate sauce and scoop of vanilla ice cream, the evening ended on an unfortunate note. With a raft of fresh customers, it took nearly 30 minutes for our dessert to arrive, and when it came it did so without the ice cream. We aired our grievances to the otherwise fantastic waiting staff who quickly, though incorrectly, returned with a scoop of chocolate ice cream.

Errors aside, the waffles were scrumptious and the ice cream was luxuriously thick and creamy without being overly sweet or bitter.

A new edition to the dining scene, My Place, offers pan-European cuisine while veteran Peaches is all about curries. Do these two pass the test with our covert critic? Photos by EJ Chung

50 | The Word February 2012

Tom Collins was sweet, tart and effervescent, if a tad syrupy, while the lychee martini possessed the basic hallmarks of a decent lychee martini; simply, it tasted and smells like lychee (fragrant, juicy and sub-acidic).

Our mains included the traditional coq au vin (French red wine stew with chicken served with a choice of mashed potatoes, fries or toasted bread) and a half-kilo of Belgian clams steamed in a sweet and sour tamarind boullion with fries.

The coq au vin was sensational. The braised chicken was unbelievably tender, literally falling off the two thighbones, while the red wine stew, though thicker than I’d previously encountered, burst with delicious miniature explosions of garlic, thyme, onion and a deep Burgundy sweetness that enhanced the otherwise bland mashed potatoes.

The bowl of clams, which came accompanied by a large side of skinny fries, was plentiful in portion but small in size.

The bouillon was a little too watery for my liking, weakening the sweet and sour tamarind flavour, though the potent clumps of chilli, parsley and assorted herbs largely masked this dish’s shortcomings.

MY PLACE 195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301

THE PRICES Lychee Martini VND120,000

Coq-Au-Vin VND190,000

Tom Collins VND120,000

1/2 kilo tamarind clams VND120,000

Tomato Soup VND75,000

Belgian waffles VND115,000

Prawn Cocktail VND75,000

THE VERDICT OUT OF 15 Food: 9.5

Decor: 11

Service: 9.5

Peaches, The Curry Pub

C

urry and cold beer. It’s just one of those combinations that seems to work. And it’s a theme that the Saigon South bar, Peaches, has used to good effect. Not only is there a novelty factor — most bar food in this town mixes standard international fare with the odd dumbed down Vietnamese dish — but with dishes coming from all around the region, it’s a theme that is somehow more fitting to the taste buds of Vietnam. So, as a curry lover, it was with relish that I rocked up to this Phu My Hung mainstay.

I’d already been twice to this simple but tastefully designed bar, the previous occasion just over a month ago. On this visit I’d ordered the slow-cooked beef rendang, one of the most complicated curries to master, especially in a country lacking some of the key ingredients — galangal and turmeric. It had been tasty but lacked real authenticity and punch. Unfortunately for every rendition of rendang around the world, my first introduction to the dish was by a Minangkabau friend in Bukit Tinggi in West Sumatra, the origin of this now Southeast Asian speciality. So tasty was it that for the remaining time on this island, it became an almost daily part of my diet.

So, on this visit, while I went for the rendang for a second time, I also decided to try some of the other offerings and not be over-critical. The venue serves curries from all over the region, and transporting such dishes to Vietnam has often resulted in a watered down version of the real thing.

First up was the Balinese pork curry, a red sauce dish with chunks of pork and potato. The deep red sauce, while thick and with a good consistency, tasted a touch

burnt. With a beer in hand this wouldn’t matter. But for anyone desiring a great eat, they may be disappointed, no matter how much was made up for by the wholesome chunks of pork and the potato.

The Singaporean chicken curry was a better rendition of its real self. Typically mild and served with ochre and tender chicken on the bone, the sauce was smoothly spiced and eaten with beer to swill away the chilli, this little gem would go down a treat.

New to me was the Portuguese fish ball curry. A variation of the typical Keralainfluenced curry found in Sri Lanka, this was hands down the best dish of the day.

Served up with the fish filet rolled into uncoated balls and with onion, green peppers and a range of spices, too, there was an inherent sweetness to this dish and a fullness of flavour that made it a delight on the palate. The fish was tender and the coconut milk that made up the bulk of the sauce was sweet enough to soften the chilli and yet not overwhelm, as it can often do in other curries in this region.

And then, of course, came the rendang.

Wetter this time round than on my last attempt, this version felt more authentic but once again it lacked the spicy punch that I associate with this dish. Not Peaches’ fault.

But still.

The curry offerings at Peaches may not be perfect. But then this is after all a pub, and you wouldn’t expect them to reach such dizzy culinary heights. Getting all the spices, right, too, must also be a chore. And yet, with the beer swilling and the chilli juices flowing, this is a great option for anyone looking for a hearty, sweat-inducing meal. The service was faultless, too.

PEACHES S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999

THE PRICES Singaporean Chicken Curry VND90,000 Portuguese Fish Ball Curry VND85,000 Balinese Spicy Pork Curry VND90,000 Beef Rendang VND100,000

THE VERDICT OUT OF 15 Food: 8.5

Decor: 8

Service: 11

FOOD, DECOR AND SERVICE ARE EACH RATED ON A SCALE OF 0 TO 15 13 – 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 – 12.5 very good to excellent 8 – 9.5 good to very good 5 – 7.5 fair to good 0 – 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

February 2012 The Word | 51

HBSO Tentative Spring/Summer 2012 Programme Jan. 9: Part I: Chamber Concert Ludwig van Beethoven Sonata for cello and piano in C Major Cello: Joo Hye Young Piano: Joo Eun Young Cesare Franck Sonata for violin and piano in A Major Violin: Tang Thanh Nam Piano: Joo Eun Young Sergei Prokofiev Sextet Overture on Hebrew Theme, op.34 Clarinet: Nguyen Tuan Loc Vio lin I: Tang Thanh Nam Violin II: Le Minh Hien Viola: Bui Anh Son Cello: Joo Hye Young Piano: Joo Eun Young Part II: Artur Sullivan H.M.S Pinafore HBSO Opera Chorusmaster: Ly Giai Hoa Mar. 9: Part I: Reinecke Flute Concerto Flute: Hyun Joo Ro Giacomo Puccini Soprano: Cho Hae Ryong Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart Soprano: Cho Hae Ryong Clarinet: Dao Nhat Quang Part II: Ludwig van Beethoven Symphony No.5 HBSO Symphony Orchestra Conductor: Nguyen Anh Son

SOUND & VISION

THE SOUND OF MUSIC The live music scene isn’t limited to pop cover bands and DJs. At the Saigon Opera House is a symphony of talented musicians waiting to be heard. Words by Jonathan Rebours. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

I

t’s hard to escape the growing onslaught of K-Pop, Vietnamese ballads and western tunes in this metropolis. However, the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet and Symphony Orchestra (HBSO) remains a prominent influence in challenging the all conquering influences of Euro-pop. In the process it is bringing more refined musical delights to listeners.

From its grand home at the Saigon Opera House, the HBSO runs two seasons annually, hosting its own shows and visiting artists throughout each. Last year saw impressive eclectic performances ranging from Mozart orchestral symphonies through to Columbian folk songs.

Still unfinalised at the time of print, the programme for 2012 is equally as interesting. Staying true to classics such as Mozart, Beethoven and Brahms on Mar. 9 and featuring a contemporary dance performance on Apr. 9, the HBSO is continuing to push all aspects of academic arts.

In May, a showing of the opera Dido and Aeneas will be held in cooperation with a Norwegian arts group, two very different

52 | The Word February 2012

cultures merging to produce one spectacular show. The culmination of a jam packed spring-summer schedule will be Dialogue 2012, a contemporary performance of dance and music written exclusively

by Vietnamese talent. .

Mr Thach’s Opus

It is through this beautiful combination of dance and music that they invite audiences “to marvel at the young talents in academic arts,” states Tran Vuong Thach, the director of the HBSO. A gifted conductor who studied in Belgium for six years honing his technique, he joined the HBSO in 1996, a couple of years after its inception. A welcoming gentleman with a broad smile he oversees the entire company, all 116 members. They have a team of managing staff and a host of dedicated performers who relish the opportunity to partake in this relentless schedule.

Holding, at the very least, two performances every month, with a slight break in January and February, the company has managed to make an impact on Saigon's entertainment and arts scene.

“Our constant presence has enabled us to become a regular fixture on the scene,” he says. Thach believes that without hard work they would not nearly be as successful as they are.

They have even travelled to neighbouring provinces when invited by either private companies, such as their recent invitation to Vung Tau by a petroleum company, or by the local authorities wishing to experience the spectacle of the HBSO. Though the task of moving over a hundred performers is not without its challenges.

On a visit to Dalat, Thach recalls having seven full buses transporting the excitable but nervous company. Traversing those mountain roads is harrowing enough, but with a convoy of huge buses full of equipment and fragile instruments it proved to be a funny yet exhausting experience.

“You must organise all the performers first, which with as many as we have is not an easy task, and then you must pack away all of the equipment and make sure it gets to the destination safely. Not easy,” he asserts, shaking his head and wagging his finger.

An exciting future event is the Melody of Youth programme. Held on the 29th of every month last year from May to December, and looking to resume in 2012, these concerts were established to “introduce and popularise the academic art to young audiences”. Admission was free and the concerts were packed, yet it seems regular paying audiences are still mostly over 30.

With such an important scene established from the hard work of the past 17 years, the HBSO continues to look to the future and is always working to perform exciting and inspiring pieces, showcasing the best of Vietnamese and foreign talent. The 2012 schedule is shaping up to be another huge one for the company and one that would be a shame to miss.

With Thach now semi-reluctantly laying down his baton to make way for the new wave of young talent such as young conductor Nguyen Anh Son, he still finds inspiration all around him.

“Ho Chi Minh City has a vivid socio-economic landscape that always translates into the music, and for that we are incredibly grateful to be here,” he concludes.

Apr. 9: Part I: Chamber Concert Franz Liszt Hungarian Rhapsodie No.6 Piano: Joo Eun Young Ludwig van Beethoven Trio in B flat, op.11 for clarinet, cello & piano Clarinet: Dao Nhat Quang Cello: NSUT Nguyen Tan Anh Piano: Joo Eun Young Johannes Brahms Sonata No.3 for violin & piano (III & IV mov.)

Violin: NSND Ta Bon Piano: Ly Giai Hoa George Gershwin An American in Paris (for 2 pianos) Piano I: Ly Giai Hoa Piano II: Ly Giai Nien Part II: Contemporary Dance Script: Nguyen Phuc Hai, Nguyen Phuc Hung Music: Vu Viet Anh, Nguyen Manh Duy Linh May 9: Henry Purcell Opera Dido and Aeneas (Semi staged) An artistic cooperation with Transposition — Norway HBSO Soloists, Choir and Orchestra.

Vocal coach: Siri Terjesen (Norway) Chorus Master: Ly Giai Hoa Jun. 9 Part I: Chamber Concert The Aspects Of Love HBSO Opera & Symphony Orchestra Conductor: Ly Giai Hoa Part II: Ballet Carmen (Bizet — Shchedrin) HBSO Ballet Jul. 7: Mendelssohn Violin concerto Conductor: Colin Metters Violin: Bui Cong Duy Contemporary Performance DIALOGUE 2012 Script: Nguyen Phuc Hai, Nguyen Phuc Hung Music: Vu Viet Anh, Nguyen Manh Duy Linh

February 2012 The Word | 53

LIFT IN LUXURY FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO BE PAMPERED WHILE RUNNING ON THE TREADMILL

Star Fitness Bitexco The Manor, First Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3515 0254 www.starfitnessvn.com This fitness club includes many of the amenities one would expect from a luxury facility. Although the cardio room, which provides monitors for every station, is separate from the rest of the gym, the quality isn’t diminished in the least.

Populated by quality equipment from the likes of Cybex, Hammer and Life Fitness, your muscles are sure to get a workout. If lifting weights isn’t for you there are two studios with classes including yoga, step, dance and martial arts to work up a sweat.

Afterwards members can cool down in the pool. Membership fees are VND1,470,000 per month or VND13,356,000 per year not including five percent VAT. There are lower rates for longer contracts or off-peak hours as well.

Crescent Wellness Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5412 1277 clubmgr@cswellness.vn This facility is at the top-end of Ho Chi Minh City’s luxury health clubs. Spacious and tastefully designed, amenities include top of the line cardio and weight lifting equipment.

The entire facility has Wi-Fi available throughout as well as TVs and iPod docks to pass the time away on the treadmills, elliptical machines or bikes. There are studios which hold over 61 classes per week including yoga, Pilates, dance, spinning and the new Kinesis machines of which Crescent Wellness has the only ones in Southeast Asia.

In addition to a rooftop pool, CW sports one of the few squash courts available in town. Both are included in membership fees that cost VND18,690,000 for six months or VND33,180,000 per year, inclusive of VAT. Members are allowed to freeze their membership for up to three months, once for a six-month membership and twice for a year membership, to accommodate travel or a return home for a holiday.

Saigon River Club Ruby Towers, Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 www.saigonriverclub.com This gym exemplifies the luxurious health club. The facilities are kept in immaculate condition, including the too-good-to-be-true locker rooms which sport saunas, steam rooms and wall-to-wall carpeting. Featuring modern amenities that include top of the line cardio machines each with a monitor to watch TV while you burn fat, there are two studios that host classes such as yoga and dance. Members may also use the pool and hot tub. Membership fees are VND2,247,000 per month or VND21,840,000 per year not including 10 percent VAT. Longer contracts or electing to use the facilities during offpeak hours will save members additional money. Towels and bottled water are provided at no additional charge.

The Landmark

WELLNESS

Let's Get Physical Christmas, New Year’s and Tet have just come and gone and we’re certain that most of you have gained a few extra pounds in their wake. But don’t fret, Julian Ajello has done a round up of the gyms that can help get you back in shape.

THE NEXT STEP CONVENIENTLY LOCATED IN THE CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT

The Landmark

California Fitness

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com This club offers the only other squash court among the health clubs we surveyed. Although the gym itself is small, it is well-equipped and also offers a rooftop pool with a spectacular view of Saigon River and beyond. The lockers are adequate and offer saunas. A one month membership costs VND2,800,000 and a one year membership is VND19,600,000. A squash-only membership is VND4,000,000 for three months and VND12,000,000 for the year. Discounts are also available for off peak hours and group memberships.

28-32 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 6291 5999 www.cfyc.com.vn This centre, also known as California Wow, has several locations throughout the city. The one on Le Lai near Ben Thanh Market is conveniently located in the centre of town. The facilities are spread over nine floors with the top floor acting as a juice bar with an internet café replete with a few cardio stations as well. Two floors house the lockers rooms which are basic, but serviceable. There is a floor for weight training and another for cardio. In both cases the equipment is up-to-date. There are two floors dedicated to studios for classes that include yoga, core work, step, and a variety of dance classes such as Zumba, belly and pole dancing. There is also a room dedicated to spinning. Membership fees cost VND27,300,000 per year, or VND3,339,000 per month. However, this price only covers membership at one location. If one desires to have the flexibility to use additional locations, membership fees exceed VND42,000,000 per year.

54 | The Word February 2012

Crescent Wellness (and below)

Get Fit Hollywood Fitness

IN THE OUTER DISTRICTS

Star Fitness Bitexco

WHAT THE OTHER DISTRICTS HAVE TO OFFER FOR YOUR FITNESS NEEDS

GetFit

Hollywood Fitness World

Rach Mieu Gym Club

Level 3 H3 Building, 384 Hoang Dieu, Q4 Tel: 6261 6168 www.getfitvn.com A clean, bright space, this gym offers modern equipment as well as two studios for classes including yoga, Pilates, aerobics, kickboxing and several types of dance including belly, sexy, Rumba and contemporary. The lockers have private showers, steam baths and saunas, and are clean and comfortable. They have a juice bar and provide Wi-Fi throughout.

Membership is VND9,450,000 for one year and VND6,300,000 for off peak. Longer contracts provide additional savings. GetFit provides great value for the money and yet is still located close to the heart of the city.

B12 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 6262 4918 This health club can be found in a shopping plaza just south of LotteMart in District 7. The first floor is the cardio room and reception area where towels are provided. The second floor houses the weight room and lockers.

The weight room is decently sized and has plenty of equipment to utilise. On the top floor is a tiled studio that offers yoga, spinning and step classes. While the club is more limited than others, the prices are in line with the services. Membership fees for one month are VND800,000 and VND6,000,000 for one year.

1 Hoa Phuong, Phu Nhuan This gym is set in a large complex boasting a wide array of physical activities. Within steps of the gym one can venture into a variety of dance classes, martial arts, an Olympic sized pool, billiards, tennis courts and basketball. Just outside the complex are many of the city’s best street food eateries making a fine reward for a hard workout, or rather a fuel stop right before hitting the machines. The gym itself is simple but clean and orderly. There are cardio machines, free weights and weight machines. A one month membership is VND600,000 and VND7,000,000 for one year. There are additional discounts for those willing to restrict their use to either morning or afternoon hours.

NO FRILLS IT’S ALL ABOUT PUMPING MUSCLES HERE, NO DANCING ALLOWED

Mach’s Gym 1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 Mach’s Gym screams ‘old school’ as you walk in the door. If you’ve ever been to a Gold’s Gym in the US you’ll feel right at home at Mach’s. It’s conventionally laid out on a single, ground floor with cardio at the entrance, followed by weight machines in the middle and the free weights at the end. The equipment is up-to-date and the facilities are kept clean. It’s adjacent to soccer fields for those who prefer to get their cardio on the pitch rather than the treadmill. A number of well-known celebrities also work out here. Daily membership is VND50,000, monthly is VND500,000 and yearly is VND4,800,000, all inclusive of VAT.

56 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 57 Mach's Gym

FASHION

OPPOSITE PAGE

DRESS: FCUK VND4,450,000 SHOES: PEDRO VND1,850,000

THIS PAGE

DRESS: L’USINE VND4,055,000 SHOES: PEDRO VND2,190,000

ROAR

NOW WE'VE ENTERED THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON, IT'S TIME TO PIMP UP OUR FOOTWEAR. SO, WHEN LIFE GETS TOO MUCH THIS COMING YEAR, COUNT TO TEN AND LET THE SHOES DO THE TALKING STYLING BY JAMES ALLEN

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

MODELS: HEATHER WOODWARD, HELEN ROBBENS, NGAN NGUYEN AND JACKIE KEHOE

58 | The Word February 2012

February 2012 The Word | 59

DRESS: FCUK VND3,650,000 SHOES: PEDRO VND2,150,000

WHERE TO BUY

FCUK L1 Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 PEDRO B1-61 Vincom Center.

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 L’USINE 151 Dong Khoi, Q1

DRESS: FCUK VND3,750,000 SHOES: PEDRO VND1,990,000

City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 064 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 072 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 082 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 098 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 104 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 112 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 120 PHOT PH PHOTO O O BY QUINN OT QUI Q UINN UI NN N RYAN RYA YAN N MATTINGLY MATT MA T IN TT NGL GY

A D D IT ION A L F EATUR ES

Destination Zero 074 Travel Promos 078 Foodie Corner 088 Cafe Critique 094 Food Promos 096 Vietnam Top 10 098 For The Record 099 Road Rules 100 Decks 'n' Drums 102 In The Frame 103

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 064 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 064 BUSINESS CONSULTING 064 BUSINESS GROUPS 065 CONSUMER GIFTS 065 EVENT MANAGEMENT 065 EXPAT SERVICES 066 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 066 INSURANCE 067 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 067

business COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 067 LAUNDRY 067 LEGAL SERVICES 068 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 068 MARKET RESEARCH 068 PUBLIC RELATIONS 068 RECRUITMENT & HR 069 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 070 SERVICED APARTMENTS 070

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more.

Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

KPMG

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including

64 | The Word February 2012

auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting.

Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries.

Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1 Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group.

Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands

connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn An independent, full–service branding and marketing agency focused on communications and brand building. The team, established in Vietnam for many years, is a blend of international expertise and local know–how capable of giving marketers clever ways to connect their brands with consumers for winning results.

RIVER ORCHID

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1. Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3824 5315. www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

XONE FM

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7. Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1. Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1. Tel: 3823 6770. www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1. Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1. Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research.

Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

GRANT THORNTON

centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

25 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754. www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423. www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh. www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interac-

tion and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1. Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2.

Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-governmental, non-political, nonprofit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD.

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1. Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD

140B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1. Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new

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business THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

business HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

RESIDENT VIETNAM

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation

privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate.

As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam.

Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777. www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD.

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205. www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has

access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale.

Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi GROUP Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam.

Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE

Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits.

Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

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INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates.

Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED)

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 / 0917 277169 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provide Vietnamese language training by experienced qualified teachers and certified/notarized translation by experts for various materials and documents, from a page to a book.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4 Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MR CLEAN

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1. Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING

26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 Tel: 3827 7991 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses

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business

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS INTERNATIONAL LAWYERS

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building,

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies.

With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions

in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand

their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

M: +84 976 750 644 T: +84 4 6275 2824 - matthew.collier@alliedpickfords.com.vn M: +84 122 514 1848 T: +84 8 3823 3454 - kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

business corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Hanoi: Matthew Collier HCMC: Kevin Hamilton

services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

OPUS VIETNAM RO

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

(formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

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business

business RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS

2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD.

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for

household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network.

Also local, domestic and office moves.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam.

SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished

apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

JASMINE COURT

307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SEDONA SUITES

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above

Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

127 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a toprated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

VND990,000

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out & about

DESTINATION

LISTINGS

DALAT 072 HANOI 073 AROUND HANOI 073 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 075 HCMC DELUXE 076 HCMC MID-RANGE 077 HCMC BUDGET 077 HOI AN & DA NANG 077 HUE & QUANG BINH 079 NHA TRANG 079 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 080

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

PHU QUOC 080 SAPA 081 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 081 TRAVEL SERVICES 081

guestrooms are basic but provide free Wi-Fi. A single room without breakfast barely dents the wallet at VND20,000 per night, while a double room is charged at VND250,000. Add breakfast and the rates are slightly higher. A coffee shop is located on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre. Guests also enjoy a 10 percent discount at V Café.

DALAT PALACE

DREAMS HOTEL BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, the Dalat Green City Hotel is a no-frills budget option. Newly refurbished, the 12

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat. Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

ARTICES DESTINATION ZERO 074 TRAVEL NOTES 076 TRAVEL PROMOS 078

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat. Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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FRASER SUITES

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city.

They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar.

Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL CREDIT

SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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DESTINATION

ZERO

PHOTO BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK wanting to stop and look around, but feeling compelled to keep moving. Soon it was lunchtime.

There is nothing better than hot food after biking in the rain for several hours.

The second half of the day, the analogy and the highway continued. The rider in front of me sped ahead. Like my early twenties, there were times when I felt alone; at points I had to remind myself it wasn’t a race, to stop and rest if needed. Seeing an incline on the horizon triggered a pang of anxiety. At the top of a hill I felt triumphant.

And damp.

By the evening we reached the town where we would spend the night. The only thing better than hot food is sleep.

THE BIKE TRIP Sometimes road trips just don’t work out, writes Roz Plotzker, whose aim was to cycle from Hanoi to Nghe An with 12 Snickers bars and a poncho t started outside a movie theatre with a text message: “Be there in 10 minutes.

Also, I have a proposal for you”. Over dinner, my friend explained his idea to bike 300km of the Ho Chi Minh Highway in three days. His pitch had phrases like “wing it” and “villages or bust”. It was a perfect invitation.

The archetypal road trip story has been experienced and told countless times. There is a road, a vehicle and a traveller. There are inevitable lessons learned. Internal and external struggles are confronted. With a little luck, the protagonist survives the journey a changed person, but unscathed.

In some ways this story is no different.

I

The Road The Ho Chi Minh Highway runs north to south, just parallel of Highway 1A. It is currently a two-lane, 1,234.5km stretch from Hanoi to Kon Tum Province in the Central Highlands, travelling approximately along the Ho Chi Minh Trail (though never into Laos).

The Vehicle A seven-speed Trek bike. I know nothing

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destination contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

else technical about it. It was grey with a basket.

The Traveller I am 28 years old. I have not ridden a bicycle since I was 23, when my bike was stolen in Philadelphia.

The Story [Day 1] At 7.30am, armed with a lightweight backpack, a patch kit, a first aid kit, 12 Snickers bars, new bike shorts, a poncho and a helmet, I loaded my bike onto the bus. By 9.30am, we were at the head of the Ho Chi Minh Highway. I needed a final preparatory step: a cafe. As soon as we were sat down, the sky split open and spilled a downpour.

After an hour, the rain stopped. We mounted our bikes. I peddled, staring straight ahead at my fellow traveller, with the gorgeous landscape that typifies the region in my peripheral vision. My muscles warmed up. After the first 10km I started to imagine the highway as an analogy for my early twenties — not knowing what I was getting myself into; hoping the person ahead of me would be a good guide;

[Day 2] A breakfast of juice, sticky rice and coffee — all under a lovely bright blue sky. I was stiff but looking forward to another day of scenery, introspection and peddling.

The landscape, which had been cloaked in mist before, was naked and illuminated today. It was a postcard. I biked up and down the hills, talking to myself a little bit to keep myself company. Water buffalodrawn carts passed me. I was engulfed by a group of teenagers on electric bikes for a few minutes. But mostly I was alone, physically on the road, mentally in 2006.

Then a sharp pain shot up my right heel to my calf. The back of my ankle felt like a rubber band that had been overstretched.

At our 10km break, I wondered if I would be able to complete the day’s goal. By 27km, I convinced myself to take a break. I caught a ride to the next town, iced my ankle, and waited for my friends to arrive. When they did, we had a bowl of pho — not nearly as satisfying as yesterday’s lunch. And, my ankle did not feel any better. I hitched a second ride to the town where we planned to spend the night. The scenery zoomed by too fast to appreciate the details. It was a montage of rural Vietnam. Was there ever a point in my twenties when I was equally handicapped, I wondered? Have I been zooming through my late twenties, failing to enjoy the minutia?

I hobbled into a guesthouse, wheeling my bike into the lobby. I was asking about room prices when I heard the crash. Once the cloud of incense dust cleared, I saw my bike on its side with a crushed alter underneath it. A pang shot up my Achilles tendon as I limped over to clean the mess. It was time to go home.

On the night bus back to Hanoi I felt disappointed, but mostly relieved to be off my feet. I would wake up closer to home.

Maybe I’ll try again, I thought as I dozed off.

Only first, I should do a couple day trips.

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins.

They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself.

A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night.

Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh. Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the

pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 ,Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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destination

destination RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best–regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well.

A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY TIM RUSSELL

Onward & Upward?

Vietnam recently announced that it had received its six millionth tourist visitor in 2011, conveniently just in time before the end of the year.

How many of these visitors were actual tourists, and how many were business travellers, people visiting their family or expats doing visa runs will probably never be known now that the landing card has been scrapped, but if the figure is accurate, it represents a near 20 percent increase on 2010’s figures.

Particularly impressive given that Vietnam still doesn’t do any destination marketing worthy of the name, doesn’t have a genuine visa on arrival process, and attracts very few repeat visitors. Some tourists I met in Battambang last month told me that, of the three countries they’d visited on their trip (Vietnam, Cambodia & Laos), Vietnam was the only one to which they would not return, simply because of the hassle of getting a visa — to put it simply, the tortuous visa process and the “queue” (scrum) at the visa on arrival desk made them feel unwelcome. I wonder how many other people feel the same way? Well, if various surveys are to be believed, around 95 percent of visitors to Vietnam, with the country’s return visit rate standing at around the five percent mark.

It’s a well-known marketing

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principle that it costs less to service an existing customer than it does to go out & look for a new one, so let’s hope that in 2012, Vietnam focuses not so much on attracting new visitors, but on making sure it gives visiting tourists such a warm welcome and a good time that they’ll spread the word AND come back a second time. That figure of 6 million could increase dramatically in the coming years without any additional marketing spend, purely by making sure that tourists can get into Vietnam without any problems, and are treated with fairness and respect during their stay.

Thailand is able to withstand protests, riots and flooding because half of all its tourist visitors come back again. Vietnam, as we saw during the overhyped SARS crisis of 2003, is not in such a fortunate position and without such loyal returning customers its tourism industry would be all but wiped out in the event of a major crisis.

So my big wishes for 2012 are that our visitors can finally get their visas on arrival, and that the country’s taxi drivers, hoteliers, shopkeepers and restaurateurs will think long term and see tourists as potential word-of-mouth marketers and return visitors. Once that happens, Vietnam’s tourism industry will really take off.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most

of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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WINDSOR PLAZA

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL CREDIT

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs.

Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

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HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial.

Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers.

Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL CREDIT

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit.

A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

HCMC BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL CREDIT

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

DUNA HOTEL

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$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA

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$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

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$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1 Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI CREDIT

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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HUY HOANG 1

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

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travel Promos MIA RESORT NHA TRANG In celebration of its grand opening in September, Mia Resort is offering guests a complimentary third night of accommodation if they book two nights. Come and enjoy the new resort, which is situated next to the sea just south of Nha Trang with its own private beach.

For more info, visit www.mianhatrang.com STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL The hotel is offering a variety of packages available until Mar. 31. A deluxe room is priced at VND1,848,000++, a junior suite is VND2,058,000++ and the executive deluxe is VND2,478,000++.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

See more at wordhcmc.com

There is also a buffet breakfast and set menu lunch for two persons and 20 percent off for hair treatment. These offers are applicable for overseas Vietnamese, Vietnamese and expats.

For more info, visit www.starcitysaigon.vn VINPEARL LUXURY DANANG The hotel is offering discounts for guests staying a minimum of two nights. For two night bookings, there is a 30 percent discount on the second night and for three night bookings, pay for only two nights, with the third night complimentary. The promotion is valid until May 31, excluding Apr. 28 to Apr. 30.

For more info, visit www.vinpearlluxury-danang.com

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort.

The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

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HUE & QUANG BINH HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL CREDIT

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences.

With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal.

The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

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SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY CREDIT

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara–nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA $$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being CREDIT

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AIRLINES

listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

AIR ASIA

www.airasia.com

AIR FRANCE

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

AIR MEKONG

1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330. www.aa.com

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

CATHAY PACIFIC

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

BIKE RENTALS

CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488. www.evaair.com

JAPAN AIRLINES

3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098. www.vn.jal.com

JETSTAR PACIFIC KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

MALAYSIA AIRLINES

Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES

Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com

VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777 www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/ month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/ month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes.

Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh, Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

SHADES APARTMENTS

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

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THE SAILING CLUB

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7440 www.sailingclubvietnam.com Much more than its name suggests, with beautiful landscaped tropical gardens leading onto a stretch of pristine beach and an outdoor bar, well–positioned to make the best of the scenery. Has a mix of comfortable rooms and bungalows.

Offers quad–biking, kitesurfing, paragliding and sailing.

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA CREDIT

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant.

Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

EVA AIRWAYS

www.jetstar.com/vn

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

PHU QUOC BO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French–Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay.

Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid–back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

$$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

cess to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO REX HOTEL $$ BINH AN VILLAGE

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere.

Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao CREDIT

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

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TOPAS ECOLODGE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

VICTORIA SAPA

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct acCREDIT

CREDIT

$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully

CREDIT

LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully–designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

CREDIT

February 2012 The Word | 81

destination AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies.

With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113. pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management,

82 | The Word February 2012

domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

KIM TRAVEL

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups.

Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

TERRAVERDE

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh. Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 082 CAFES 083 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 084 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 085 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 085 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 086 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 089 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 090

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

AMBER ROOM

LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE

TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also

ICONS 101

TU TRANG TRAVEL

AIRCONDITIONING

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

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WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 090 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 091 RESTOBARS 092 ARTICLES FOODIE CORNER 088 CAFE CRITIQUE 094 FOOD PROMOS 096 possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian.

The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby.

Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

CLOUD 9

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space

means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GOSSIP

HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners.

A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

ICE BLUE

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so–regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LUSH

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

OCEAN CLUB

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TECHNO / VIETNAMESE POP Nha Rong Port Area, 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 6269 6999. www.oceanclub.com.vn/club 9pm to late Following the demise of the now nearmythical Starwars, Ocean Club has filled the void with a sensory overload of neon lighting, outlandish décor and a booming soundsystem that tests the limitations of what the human can take. A couple

of thousand people can easily squeeze into the huge club hall with dozens of tables, booths and VIP areas dotted throughout. The solar system print on the ceiling and futuristic designs will have your eyes darting every which way whilst a relentless playlist of trance, techno and house is mixed by Vietnamese DJs. Then there’s the live Vietnamese music, too. Make sure to dress the part for the catwalk, this is Vietnamese clubbing at its most contemporary and luxurious.

SLATE

3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

VASCO’S

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

VELVET

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1. Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY)

OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

out & about AN’S INTERIOR CAFE

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY

LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO

ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

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out & about COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbuckslike work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S

INTERNATIONAL 131 - 133 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6309 www.gloriajeanscoffees.com.vn 7am to midnight Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising, really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions - cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish delight, mango chiller, Irish nut creme and more. Has a number of locations around town including 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 and 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3.

I’M YOURS

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

JAVA CAFE

MEDITERRANEAN / CONTEMPORARY 38 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 0187 7.30am to 11.30pm Once the most popular contemporary cafe in town, an image-changing renovation coupled by a period of disinterested service led to Java losing its niche. Those days are now gone and this brown and grey modish venue boasts smiling staff, an attractive downstairs cafe area and a first-floor, comfort-friendly lounge. The food menu has also been revamped with bruschettas, creative open cut sandwiches, pasta, risotto and gourmet pizza mains making an appearance. Then of course are the excellent, health-conscious smoothies and good coffee.

JUICE

INTERNATIONAL 49 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 6900 7.30am to 11pm Lime green, olive, orange, innovative sofa-seating and contemporary artwork stretch across the three floors and mezzanine level of Juice, one of downtown’s most pleasant, while-the-time-away cafes. A huge selection of smoothies and shakes together with both local and espresso-based coffee is complemented by an international cafe fare menu that takes in salads, hot and cold sandwiches, wraps, pittas, bagels, burgers and a small selection of international mains. Excellent delivery service.

KITA COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

PETITE NOTE

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a

Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN

50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the ever-expanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE

places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town.

A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

MID-RANGE

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE

TOP-END

restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

LA CAMARGUE

THE PUNJABI

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport.

With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

DYNASTY

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese

HU TIEU MI ANH KY

MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, familyfriendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf.

Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe.

Booking advised.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE

PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, two-storey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ

CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

TROIS GOURMANDS

CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000.

Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent.

From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN

INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few

February 2012 The Word | 85

out & about and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family.

MUMTAZ

MID-RANGE

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao

AL FRESCO’S

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service.

For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eyecatching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE

ence has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

IMPERIAL

RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russian-run venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

KITA RESTAURANT

PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

DOMINO'S PIZZA

LISBOA CAFÉ

AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experi-

PORTUGUESE 119 Cong Quynh, Q1. Tel: 3920 9182 11am to 11pm Go to the end of Bui Vien, turn right onto Cong Quynh and on the left hand side you’ll see the first Portuguese restaurant to open up in Vietnam. A simple affair with a downstairs open-air seating area and a top floor terrace, the cuisine is as Portuguese as it gets — tasty tapas, seafood and a range of typical Iberian dishes, made with a mixture of local and imported ingredients. Also has a small selection of Portuguese wines to match the cuisine.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SNAP CAFE

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area.

Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

SUBWAY

171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same

choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafront-style restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australian-themed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex.

Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

CHARNER CAFÉ

EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1. Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well-

known Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere.

Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1. Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

PASHA

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with

Cafe fare made with American flair

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1. Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower

169a De Tham @ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

86 | The Word February 2012

out & about

foodie CORNER PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

The Filling Station Banh cuon is a northern breakfast staple that is rarely seen down in the south of Vietnam, but one restaurant is trying to change that. Hat Gao Vang (101 Mai This Luu, Q1, with two other outlets in Q11 and Tan Binh) is putting its own twist on this early morning speciality using a little southern flair.

Banh cuon is steamed rice paper filled with a selection of fillings. Hat Gao Vang, which translates to ‘golden rice’, offers ten different fillings from thit (plain pork, VND25,000), to hai san nam dong co (seafood and shitake mushrooms, VND35,000).

In addition, these fillings can be wrapped in any of four different flavoured wraps, from bot truyen thong (traditional white rice) to the vibrant purple bot khoai mon (taro root).

Ladles of the various wrap mixtures are spooned onto steaming hot plates in the open plan kitchen, in full view of on-looking customers, and covered with a conical lid until the right texture is achieved.

Then, they are delicately wrapped around the filling and presented alongside pork sausage, bean sprouts, lettuce, and the ubiquitous fish sauce.

We opted for the bot truyen thong thit nuong (traditional wrap and BBQ pork, VND32,000) combination; it came out in minutes, and looked and smelled delicious. After a second scrumptious dish of bot la dua hai san (pandan leaf and seafood, VND32,000) we were fully satiated.

A surprising interlude of pleasant lounge style music floats over the scene, a fitting accompaniment to the serenity, and a welcome surprise compared to most Vietnamese food outlets in the city blaring banging electro beats.

With a concise and no-nonsense, affordable menu, offering great food, simply prepared in a welcoming atmosphere, Hat Gao Vang should definitely be a stop on any foodie’s radar. — Jonathan Rebours

88 | The Word February 2012

great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373, www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions.

Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA

ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with panwestern cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable own-

ers, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

JAVA

PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 38 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3823 0187 7.30am to 11.30pm A modish, brown and grey contemporary cafe venue selling Italian-influenced, pan-Mediterranean cuisine. Think ricotta pancakes, bruschettas, Roman salads, creative open cut sandwiches, linguine, risotto, pesto dishes and gourmet pizzas mains and you get the idea. Portions are big, too. Then of course are the excellent, health-conscious smoothies, good coffee and a great upstairs lounge area to boot.

STELLA CAFFE

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italianstyle mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP BASILICO

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099, www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached

to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes.

For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA

CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

A Taste of Authenticity

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO

PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA

PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about

AN PHU

gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN

BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf.

Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

BUDDHA BAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2 A large screen TV is the focus of this joint. The décor is pleasant and the menu draws from across Asia.

CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

LESUDGAUDIR 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi.

Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

90 | The Word February 2012

PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bambooclad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS

fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN BUDGET

OSAKA RAMEN

CORIANDER

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

SEOUL HOUSE

BAAN THAI

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

YAMANEKO

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP INAHO

JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish.

And it’s cheap, too.

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation.

Here it is faultless.

OOO / MARUSAN

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT

YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm.

Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep

MID-RANGE

JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1 Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

JASMINE THAI

LION CITY

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

NATHALIE'S

PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ

42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232 www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A

PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candlelit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1. Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNG

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

BO NE LE HONG

STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the

intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000.

Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN

VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to

out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166 WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461 YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

92 | The Word February 2012

out & about the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too.

A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1 Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asianstyle, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinh-branded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced

meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry.

Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

NAM PHAN

STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

TEMPLE CLUB

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

NHA HANG NGON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces.

MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

ALIBI

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

AMOR RESTOBAR AND CLUB 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 11am to 3am Located in the heart of the city, AMOR’s two floors offers up a variety of choices: The first floor restobar is an open-plan casual dining and socializing venue with the kitchen and bar open from 11am till 2am. The menu dishes up a range of delights from snacks and bar food to gourmet grills at astonishingly good value.

On the second floor the nightclub pumps out hip hop and R&B beats with fabulous scratching from their resident DJs from 9pm - 3am. Pole Dancing, MCs, regular promotions and special offers keep the crowd buzzing and the atmosphere jumping until early in the morning!

BOAT HOUSE

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious, slightly gentrified restobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon’s largest waterway.

The cuisine here ranges from small plates through to salads, sandwiches (from VND95,000), premium burgers (from VND195,000), pizza, pasta, pan-Asian, seafood dishes and steaks (VND450,000 for the Australian premium rib-eye). Has

an international wine list and Sunday afternoons play host to live music and the occasional mini festival.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York.

Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere.

Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily AC WIFI The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

BUDDHA BAR

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INTERNATIONAL 7 Thao Dien, Q2 3pm to 12am daily Tucked away in An Phu, this long-standing establishment provides great food and drinks at reasonable prices. With a long bar, pool table, darts, live sports, good music, and friendly staff, it’s easy to relax and have a good time. A variety of cuisine is offered, from beef pies and burgers to beef tenderloin, spare ribs and Swiss-style fondue. Quiz night on Wednesdays, ladies night on Tuesdays and live music every first Friday of the month.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering spectacular views of Ho Chi Minh City, Chill is located on the rooftop of A&B Tower in downtown District 1. DJ Kenzo Trinh provides a playlist of ambient dance tunes and up-tempo lounge tracks, while the open kitchen, headed up by chefs from Japan, Australia, Thailand and Vietnam, serves a mix of contemporary international and Asian cuisine. Signature drinks aplenty can also be ordered from the bar. Be sure to dress well as Chill operates a no shorts and no sandals dress code policy.

CRAZY BUFFALO

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area

restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FIGARO

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.

Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu

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10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALLEZ BOO

décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the latenight party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboo-style

www.alibi.vn 5a Nguyen Sieu ±Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 38 25 62 57

Rendez-vous?

Alibi MEET - DRINK - EAT

February 2012 The Word | 93

{cafe CRITIQUE}

that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the wellknown Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a bar-like Australian sports atmosphere.

Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers.

KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE Forget any traditional preconceptions you might have had of Japanese high society — much like the fierce painting of the armed Geisha hanging on its wall, this café does things a little differently.

Sharing a space with the Geisha fashion boutique downstairs, the café has no doubt been designed as a pit stop between bursts of retail therapy for many weary shoppers. Because of the overabundance of the colour red, the space can feel a little dark in the day, though somewhat compensating for this are the giant mirrors strategically placed to bounce some light around and make everything feel more spacious.

Although a ham and cheese omelet isn’t likely to blow your mind anytime soon, this café certainly attempts the impossible with its rework of the breakfast staple. Thin omelet, cheese and ham rolled together and cut, maki roll style certainly makes something of an otherwise pedestrian meal, and it’s yours for VND60,000. In fact, most of the menu borders on the experimental side of things, and apart from the baffling Guinness black beer with honey (VND50,000); the majority of the dishes manage to tempt you into a try.

Your cup of tea, from VND40,000, is going to be the same price as most other beverages on offer, so trying something new seems to make financial sense, and with the price of a beer equal to a soft drink, the option is always there to make a night out of it. Herbal shisha is only VND130,000, so puffing away on the apple, mint, lemon and watermelon flavours will round off a good night. The cocktails (VND95,000) are worth a mention with names such as ‘Just Sign Here, Madame’, ‘Frisky Panda’, ‘Geisha’s Treacle’ and ‘Monkey Punch’.

The food is good, yet on the pricey side, mostly staying above the VND100,000 mark, the service and the WI-FI are fast.

Geisha’s Coffee and Tea House is located on the 2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI

THE DRINK: 4/5

THE SERVICE: 4/5

94 | The Word February 2012

THE DECOR: 3/5

FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-run Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ)

FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two.

Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars.

A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

MY PLACE

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PEACHES

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including

food Promos out & about

NEW WORLD For Valentine’s, the pool bar will foster a romantic atmosphere with candles, DJ music and specially decorated tables. Guests will be presented with a five-course set menu including wine pairing and a glass of pink champagne. Available Feb. 14 and priced at VND950,000 per person.

On Feb. 14, diners at Parkview will be greeted at their own candlelit table covered with flower petal decorations. Special touches include a fresh Valentine’s cocktail, live music, a Valentine’s buffet and a free flow of house wine, draft beer, soft drinks, coffee and tea.

The themed buffet is available for VND1,200,000 per person.

Dynasty is serving a six-course set menu. A Valentine’s cocktail and a glass of bubbling champagne will round off a special night. Priced at VND600,000 per person.

New World Saigon Hotel is celebrating 10 days of love from Feb. 6 to Feb. 15 by offering discounted rates at The Spa. A special Valentine’s Day spa menu is offering discounted prices on facial treatments, massages and tailormade treatments.

For more info, visit www.saigon. newworldhotels.com HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON On Valentine's Day, indulge that special someone with a unique dinner in the romantic atmosphere of Saigon’s newest five star. Special menus feature selected dishes accompanied with flowers and

chocolate. At La Brasserie, the dinner buffet for VND960,000/pax includes a free flow of house wine, soft drinks and a cocktail Parfait d’Amour. At Ming Court, the dinner set menu for VND820,000/pax includes a free flow of white and red wine, soft drinks and a cocktail Parfait d’Amour.

For more info, visit www. hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn PARK HYATT Park Hyatt is offering Amore at the Opera restaurant on Feb. 14. Chef Michele is producing a four-course menu including shellfish bisque, beef tenderloin and chocolate mousse.

There will also be a complimentary glass of champagne and a truffle chocolate box as well as a long stem rose to take home. Priced at VND 1,320,000++ per person Square One is hosting Aphrodisiac to celebrate Valentine’s Day. Chef Benjamin Attwater has created a menu that includes black figs, kusshi oysters, grilled Australian rib eye, and raspberry chocolate ganache. A glass of champagne, a heart-shaped truffle box, and a long stem rose is included. Priced at VND1,760,000++ per person The king of crustaceans holds court this month in Square One. Priced at VND220,000++/100g (1 to 2kg per piece) For more info, visit www.restaurants. parkhyattsaigon.com SHERATON On Feb. 14, enjoy a six-course menu

See more at wordhcmc.com at the Signature or experience action stations at the Saigon Café.

Li Bai is offering a Valentine’s menu for couples with steamed baby lobster and wok-fried broccoli with dried scallops and Valentine’s chocolate. Lovers can also buy a gift from Mojo on Dong Khoi such as a heart shaped charlotte russe, chocolate mousse and pralines.

Available from Feb. 10 to 14.

Celebrate the Lunar New Year at Li Bai with the Yee Sang salad tossing, Hong Kong-style steamed garoupa, lobster and more. Available from Jan. 16 to Feb. 6.

Boston lobsters and Dungeness crabs will become the speciality dishes during February at Li Bai. Saigon Café is celebrating Creole-style cuisine every Saturday in February at Saigon Café. There will be a free flow of house wine, coffee and tea for the full Creole night experience. Priced at VND880,000++ per person The Moët & Chandon and Chocolate brunch celebration will continue at Saigon Cafe on Sundays from Feb. 5 to Feb. 26. Priced at VND880,000++ per person.

For more info, visit www.sheraton. com/saigon VINO Vino 2 in An Phu is introducing a new weekend breakfast menu to kick-start the New Year. Available on Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 12pm, this offer is a perfect reason to get out of bed.

For more info, visit www.vinovietnam. com

anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

QING

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back.

An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SPOTTED COW

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers

96 | The Word February 2012

and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

TRADERS

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after

work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofastyle seating and deep red upholstery.

Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

out & about

vietnam top 10 SOUND & VISION

01 02 03 04 05 06 07

DUNG NGOANH LAI

08 09 10

QUA DEM NAY

LUU HUONG GIANG, SUBOI & CUONG LAST WEEK: 1

CO KHI NAO ROI XA BICH PHUONG LAST WEEK:

ARTS CLASSES 098 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 098 GALLERIES 098 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 099 PERFORMING ARTS 103 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 103

4

ARTS CLASSES

TRAI TIM DANG YEU VAN MAI HUONG ft M4U LAST WEEK:

LISTINGS

5

TINH YEU DEN 365 BAND LAST WEEK: 2

BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS

www.BDPworkshops.com 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780, www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

HAY NHIN ANH YANBI ft BUENO LAST WEEK:

6

ANH MO

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

HOANG ANH KHANG LAST WEEK: 3

YEU NHAU MINH THU

VIN’S SPACE

NEW ENTRY

HA ANH TUAN ft PHUONG LINH LAST WEEK: 8

4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi , Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

CHU LINH NHUA PI BAND

LAST WEEK: 7

KHI RA DI THUY TRANG

FAHASA

NEW ENTRY

WEEK ENDING JANUARY 20, 2012

98 | The Word February 2012

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English,

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

ARTICLES VIETNAM TOP 10 098 FOR THE RECORD 099 ROAD RULES 100 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 102 IN THE FRAME 103 French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG

94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second–hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer

reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICULAR GALLERY

Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of

promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

for the record

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

DRAKE — TAKE CARE YOUNG MONEY ENTERTAINMENT

Emo rap. Sounds like a terrible concept, doesn’t it. Surely the only thing worse than listening to a rapper bragging about cars, money and bitches is listening to another whining about their feelings, right? Not so much, actually.

Take Care, the sophomore album by Toronto-raised actor-turnedmixtape-rap-king-turned-Grammy-nominated-R&B-superstar Drake, proves that emotional themes and soul-bearing laments need not be the exclusive property of skinny, Atticus-wearing, mop-headed, guitar-wielding teens.

The album’s introspective subject matter, which largely deals with failed romances, conflicted relationships, and Drake’s despondent ambivalence toward his growing fame and wealth, is delivered with an endearing dollop of self-deprecation and shards of oxymoronic braggadocio made all the more poignant by the remarkable production skills of long-time collaborator Noah “40” Shebib, Boi-1da, T-Minus, Just Blaze, The Weeknd, and Jamie xx.

Together, they provide an atmospheric and downbeat, yet grandiose, template that goes way deeper than the rushed-sounding sonic aesthetic of Drake’s debut, Thank Me Later. Oblique synth melodies, muffled drums and distant pulses that enhance Drake’s crooned, alto vocals and passive aggressive raps are punctuated by muted textures, slow burning tempos and murky beats, making for an altogether more cohesive and considered LP. Nowhere is this more evident or brilliantly executed than on promotional single Marvin’s Room, a sparse, after-hours admission of love that anyone who’s ever drunk dialled an ex after one too many in the club can relate to. Equally, the excellent Crew Love, which features fellow Canadian hotshot, The Weeknd, follows the same moody and minimalist path, while the Gill Scott Heron-sampling title track represents the album’s ‘danciest’ number thanks to Jamie xx’s euphoric big-beat production, rave-indebted piano keys and melancholic guitar riff.

Other highlights include the bass-heavy Under Ground Kings, which sees Drake honestly recount his meteoric rise (“Rich off a mixtape/Got rich off a mixtape”), smooth-piano opener Over My Dead Body (“I think I killed everybody in the game last year, man/ **** it I was on though/ And I thought I found the girl of my dreams at the strip club/**** it I was wrong though”), and Practice, essentially an inventive cover of Juvenile’s 1999’s southern hip-hop classic Back That Thang Up. Decisively, what makes Take Care a great album is its ability to straddle the line between the mainstream and the underground. Hard and experimental enough for ‘real’ hip-hop heads, it’s also packed with enough subversively catchy chart-friendly pop melodies and hooks to also appeal to the average Top 40 FM radio listener.

February 2012 The Word | 99

sound & vision

road

BAR BUI

Rules

Pat Joynt has been working in the scooter mo and motorcycle industry in Vietnam V for 30 years, restoring classic r bikes, importing and im producing parts. To ask about your Pat a question quest scooter or motorbike, email ro roadrules@ wordhcmc.com wordhcm

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3. Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY

57H Tu Xuong, Q3. Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture.

The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

CARMEN HEY PAT, HOW CAN YOU TELL A REAL HONDA WAVE FROM A FAKE ONE WHEN BUYING THEM USED? The easiest way to check is to have a look at the ownership papers — this shows the make/ model (nhan hieu/loai xe). If it’s clearly listed as a Honda then it’s an original; if it’s shown as a Tianma, Zongshen, Lifan or such, then it’s a Chinese copy. There are now dozens of companies producing replica Waves and there is also, believe it or not, a big difference in quality between certain manufacturers, but at the end of the day you’ll never have the quality that a new Honda will have for a ‘showroom drive it away’ price of VND6 million!

If you’re window shopping then here is a list of things to look for when giving the bike a once over: 1) Ignore the stickers, decals and paint schemes as these can be slapped on in five minutes (“Wake”, “Waze”, “Waver”, “Wuae” are common).

100 | The Word February 2012

2) Engine side covers on original models are stamped and embossed, however it is possible to change these over if a seller really wants to fool the buyer.

these can easily be bought at any of the bike markets.

3) Both engine casings and chassis numbers on original Hondas have a Honda prefix and these are not so easy to change.

Every REAL Honda engine has a barcode and serial number.

8) Finishing touches on the Chinese bikes are cheap and cheerful. Orange peel paint, cheap peeling chrome and many metal parts replaced with plastic ones.

4) Look at the welding on the chassis. On the cheaper models this is rough, crude and unfinished leading to broken frames.

With the budget price tag comes cheap components so it’s worth paying a little extra for a second hand original Honda rather than a brand new “Hongda” if your budget can afford it. You’ll also soon run into maintenance issues and repairs when the Chinese version starts to fall apart. By the time you’ve replaced a few major components you could have picked up a half decent original for the same price. A bike that costs roughly the same as a cheap engine is, of necessity, going to have some serious cost-related and safety compromises

5) Look for repairs. Check the lighting units as both headlamps and rear light units are also stamped with Honda/ Stanley but over time these can get damaged and changed.

6) The switches and the electrics on the Chinese bikes are shoddy and feel cheap!

Electrical components on the originals are mostly Japanese.

Original keys are also Honda but

7) Disc brakes on the original bikes use Nissin calipers and not unmarked Chinese ones.

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues.

Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR

7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3 Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

NIGHTSPOT

23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm to midnight (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

One of the chicest venues in the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music courtesy of the six-piece Transit band and Filipino group Sound On Fire. As the name implies, Transit play a range of Top 40 hits across the spectrum of popular music every Tuesday to Sunday from 8.45pm until 11.45pm (1am at weekends), while the usually heavy-rock inclined Sound On Fire tap into their Latin-dance side every Monday night from 8.45pm until just before midnight.

PACHARAN

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own.

Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR

9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1. Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SAX N’ ART JAZZ CLUB

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28 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am Unique renditions of classic jazz

THE FACTORY

102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 8102 8pm until late Designed as a European industrial processing plant (huge fans, bright yellow pipes, road signs and metal drums), The Factory is the second offering from the team behind Acoustic. In the footsteps of its predecessor, The Factory churns out live music, albeit in a much clubbier environment with some of the city’s top hip-hop DJs also performing every night from 9pm to 2am.

JARDIN D’AMOUR

8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

METALLIC BAR

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3. Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals

February 2012 The Word | 101

sound & vision

decks, drums & rock n' roll With six mounted guitars framing his living room and modern jazz playing in the background, Minh Do finds out more about this feather boa wearing, long-haired Japanese guitarist?

Photo by EJ Chung One afternoon, at 15, Hiro Sanada went to his friend's house where he was introduced to the folk guitar and it was love at first sight. "I thought I can do that, it sounds easy," he recalls. Within six months, he'd already learned 10 songs and was playing in front of a live audience. From folk to rock to punk rock to techno-pop to gothic and even dabbing in Indian’s classical raga style, Hiro's guitar playing has been evolving ever since.

His first encounter with Vietnam came in 1994 on a business trip to Saigon. Back then, the music scene was still budding but Hiro was surprised to find so many live music cafes. At Wild Horse Saloon he finally worked up the guts to ask one of the musicians, "Can I play?" and the rest was history.

Developing great relationships with Saigon-based acts like Bad Neighbour, Carmen, The Curtis King Band and Tran Manh Tuan became easy for a guy with a distinctive stage presence and style.

"Style is number one, of course you need technique, but technique is not number one. My target is to be not just a player. I am no player. I am an artist," says Hiro.

Hiro's musical efforts are tireless; his 2011 single My Marmot under his Soft Brain project, featuring Indian guitar riffs, gothic beats, and Nogaku vocals gained him notability in Japan on an album titled Next Generation Creators. In 2004, Hiro and a fellow Japanese guitarist formed the Japanese Music Society (JMS) to support Japanese musicians in Vietnam. By 2011, the JMS was big enough to throw a large benefit concert for the Tohoku Earthquake at Vasco's featuring seven Japanese bands, including Hiro's own band, Hell of the Pest. With six songs and counting, he’s optimistic about the future, "Watch out, this year, Hell of the Pest, will be very famous."

Catch Hiro and Hell of Pest every week at the RockFanClub (25C Tu Xuong, Q3)

compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brick-walled bohemian boîte.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 1

212 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, Tel: 3935 0610 240 Duong 3/2, Q10, Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA IN DIAMOND PLAZA

13th floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 www.lottecinemavn.com

LOTTE MART CINEMA

Level 3, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

UNIVERSAL BAR & CAFÉ 90 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 www.facebook.com/universalbarsaigon universalbarsaigon@gmail.com 12pm to late Located along Bui Vien’s main drag in backpacker ville, Universal Bar & Café is fast becoming known as a popular live acoustic venue. Open daily from 12pm till the small hours of the next morning, the venue’s second floor can accommodate for live sports, private parties, DJs and sales presentations thanks to its big screen, high-end sound system and multimedia facilities.

VASCO’S

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues.

Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon’s infamous wife inspired the title of this excellent watering hole. Refurbished and expanded at the start of 2011, the ever-popular Yoko plays host to some of Saigon’s best local bands, including funk-rockers 6789 every Wednesday, metallers Microwave every Saturday and the irrepressible chanteuse Ngoc Thy twice weekly. Proceedings tend to kick off around 9pm with a revolving door of local musicians performing nightly amongst the comfy surrounds and walls adorned with Vietnamese art and photos of John Lennon and Kurt Cobain.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

GALAXY CINEMA

116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 8533; 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688; 246 Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA

7th Floor, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 6222 0388 www.megastarmedia.net

PARAGON CINEMA

Level 5, Saigon Paragon Building, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastarmedia.net

102 | The Word February 2012

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DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419 www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1. Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong

choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

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PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

A PORTRAIT OF AN ARTIST The Ho Chi Minh City artistic scene is home not only to its local talents but has also attracted a number of foreign ones, says Lyra M Dacio Jensen Moreno, an art professor in one of Philippines’s prestigious universities, Mapua Institute of Technology, arrived in Ho Chi Minh City in April 2011, but the move did not stop her from continuing to teach and create masterpieces. In fact, she hit the ground running and taught art to children in Vin’s Space in District 2. In addition, Mai’s Gallery showcased her work just a month after her arrival, and she had her first solo exhibit in Kinh Bac Restaurant and Gallery in District 1 soon after.

After her short stint as an art teacher in Saigon South International School and Trung Khuyen Nhac Music and Arts School, she is now one of the well-respected art teachers in The American International School teaching visual arts to primary and secondary students.

Jensen finds fulfillment in teaching young minds all she knows about art but she finds it equally satisfying producing her own work. Oil is her medium of choice and although she focuses on seascapes and abstract paintings, she found her niche in portraiture. In fact, known Filipino doctor and philanthropist, Dr Joel Mendez believed in her talent so much so that he has bought most of her works while still residing in Manila.

As an art student, she spent hours in the library poring over works of art studying technique. “You are [painting] in the moment with the masters,” she explains. Although she may be channeling the great masters when she starts attacking the canvas, she finds inspiration from her art professors in the University of Santo Tomas in the Philippines.

When not busy teaching or working in her small studio at home, she is actively participating in charity work. In late 2011 she worked with the SMILE Group Vietnam where she donated one of her paintings for auction and also taught art to kids afflicted with HIV. In January 2012, Jensen was also involved in the charity event upholding the visual and performing arts, La Vita e La Morte last month where she showcased three of her most recent works.

Creating works of art and transferring her passion to the younger generation continues to be her driving force. And ultimately, she would also like to become involved in TV production to create a show that will inspire and bring art closer to the masses.

View her works at www.jensenmoreno.com

February 2012 The Word | 103

leisure & wellness

LEISURE & WELLNESS

BAND & DJ LISTINGS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY

brettnewski@yespleasemedia.com Alternative Medicine is a party band with setlists packed with groovy, danceable super hits to amp up an event. Not too loud, but also far from wimpy. Female and male harmony vocals with a percussionist with the fastest hands in the land. Rock/indie pop/soul.

380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

BAD NEIGHBOUR LATIN ROCK BAND Contact Claudio Duek on Facebook.

Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads

DEPSKILLZ www.depskillz.com A Saigon-based collective of bands, musicians, DJs and MCs who play weekly gigs at some of the best venues around town. Also available for corporate events, mix & mingles, birthday bashes, bon soirees, weddings, funerals & bar mitzvahs. No karaoke or K-Pop. Call Pedro on 0943 200 495.

DJ AJAM Tel: 01203 077 882 Djajam@gmail.com http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues.

104 | The Word February 2012

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs.

GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations.

THE CURTIS KING BAND www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

JENNY SANTIAGO & THE JOYRIDERS www.jennysantiagoonline.blogspot.com Fronted by Filipino singer Jenny Santiago, former resident-singer at Caravelle Hotel and collaborator with Bad Neighbour, The Gigatones, The Curtis King Band and Acoustic Band. The band can be found playing at venues around the city.

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 104 BASKETBALL 104 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 104 COOKING CLASSES 104 CRICKET 105 DANCING 105 FITNESS 105 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 107 GOLF 107 LEISURE - GENERAL 107 SPORTS CLASSES 108 TENNIS 108

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 108 YOGA & MEDITATION 108 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 108 COSMETIC SURGERY 109 DENTAL 109 HAIRDRESSERS 110 MEDICAL 110 PHARMACIES 111 SALONS 111 SPAS 111

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM

www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms.

Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi.

Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC

74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese

cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes.

Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.

The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764, www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions.

The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani. Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Richard Carrington. Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON)

Deeptesh Gill. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”.

Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the–art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD

Samie Cashmiri. Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the Boathouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Evening sessions start at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Riverside. Contact Cyril for more information

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB)

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB)

Steve Treasure. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)

Suhard Amit. Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

leisure & wellness LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

HO CHI MINH CITY

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop– in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

VIETNAM

NTFQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie–calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 093 815 6865. www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

BEYOND WELLNESS Sweat, pump, workout and run. Gym should’nt be just as boring as these; which is why we are integrating our very own recipe of MOVE, SHAPE, BALANCE and POWER [V [YHUZMVYT [OL VYKPUHY` Ä[ULZZ L_WLYPLUJL into a remarkable one

TOTAL WELLNESS EXPERIENCE at the life-inspiring Crescent Wellness

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

L_[

clubmgr@cswellness.vn

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers

SAIGON SAINTS

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660. www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9. Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course,

this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches.

Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long– established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

PUSH CLIMBING

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134. www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

RAINBOW DIVERS

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2. Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and

games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon.

Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

3RD FLOOR, CRESCENT PLAZA, 105 TON DAT TIEN ST., PHU MY HUNG, TAN PHU WARD, DIST. 7, HCMC, VIETNAM

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

Tel: 01225 811 080. www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

ZUMBA & NUTRITION HALL

Fit & Fun Club, S62-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Phu My Hung Tel: 0934 060 735 www.zumba-nutrition-saigon.com

Nicole Le is a certified Zumba instructor and nutrition advisor with professional nutrition experience since 2004. Offering daily hour sessions at staggered times throughout the morning and early evening, Nicole can accommodate for various schedules. Zumba is a Latin-inspired dance fitness programme that mixes international music created by Grammy Award-winning producers and cardiovascular steps, and is ideal for people wanting to lose weight without tiresome and monotonous exercise.

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leisure & wellness South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10. Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club.

You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency.

VND220,000 per hour.

leisure & wellness and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance.

Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

dhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE

Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1. Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1. Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire

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saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Bud-

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers

acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG LASIK & AESTHETIC CLINIC

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5. Tel: 3923 4419 A range of optical and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern clinic, which is home to a team of experienced and highly trained doctors. Apart from Lasik vision correction, procedures include Botox and restylane skin–filler treatments.

Hotline: 0919 590 866.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1. Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping.

The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7. Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167. saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800. www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC

17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing

Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

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leisure & wellness total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 . Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8424 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC

90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON

HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com

A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 8.30am to 12pm and 2pm to 6.30pm, and on Sundays from 8.30am to 12pm. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, includ-

s

ing a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

THE SALON

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 . Emergency: 5411 3500, www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

FV SAIGON CLINIC

VENUS

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist and cut and colour specialist Ky The Guy, a well-trained staff in an English-friendly environment attracts a loyal foreign clientele. Top industry products such as TIGI and GOLDWELLL are used and a cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. A second salon is located in the Park Hyatt Hotel.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS

273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC

Smart Kids, 26 Street 10, Q2 Nutrifort, 281 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0903 617 101 IFC provides therapy for a full range of issues including anxiety, depression, adjustment, divorce, cultural and ethnic challenges and more. Their eclectic approach is tailored to meet the therapeutic needs of each individual client with offices in districts 1 and 2. Call Annie Dolle, LCSWA or Marijke Schaminee, MA. or email IFCSaigon@gmail.com to arrange an appointment.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

THE STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescriptiononly. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern

ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

QING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a

For member a free 60 min facial treatment with your introductory membership Facial Rejuvenation (Vitamin C ) with 60 min for 1,170,000 VND and 90 min for 1,650,000 VND

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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rsv@rosablancavn.com www.rosablancavn.com Open: 9:30 - 19:00 (Closed Monday)

style 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1. Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 112 CLOTHING STORES 113 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 115 SPORTSWEAR 116 TAILORS 116 INTERIORS ART 116 CRAFT 116 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 116 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 117 LIGHTING 117

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR ACCESSORIZE

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm Despite its size, Accessorize is marred by its sloppy and disorganised displays.

The shoppers still come in their droves, though, attracted to the range of products that includes anything from beachwear and children’s clothes through to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more.

Prices depend on types and designs, but generally start from VND200,000, with a normal bag costing from VND1 million.

BIRKENSTOCK

B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON

1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its front-

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

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JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

style IPA-NIMA visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 118 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 118 MOBILE PHONES 118 GROCERIES BAKERIES 118 CATERING 119 GROCERIES 119 LIQUOR & WINE 119 ARTICLES OBJECTS OF DESIRE 114 age is painted in a stark lemon yellow.

Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and well-organised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

TIC TAC WATCHES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

JEMMA

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door.

Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI

67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI

146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million.

Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

THERESE JEWELRY

VESPA SHOP

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

YB DESIGNS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite.

Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON

147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA

171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap

costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE

180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000.

Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP

174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissance-style columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

MID TO TOP BOSSINI

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

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style

{object of DESIRE}

Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products.

Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt.

Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE

43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC

BIKE IN STYLE Continuing on from our bamboo-inspired designs from last month, the City Bike, from Mekong Creations, will certainly turn a few heads when you’re cruising the town on it. You can also be proud in the knowledge that your mode of transportation is made from one of the fastest growing grass on the planet and is environmentallyfriendly, with the added bonus that all purchases of the bikes go to a charitable cause.

The bike comes in a range of models with optional extras such as a front basket to accommodate shopping bags. Prices start at a reasonable VND3,780,000.

Mekong Creations is a subsidiary of NGO Mekong Plus, an organisation created to help impoverished women in Vietnam and Cambodia where all profits made from products sold are reinvested into the community.

Mekong Creations is located at 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 and S17-1 Sky Garden, Nguyên Văn Linh, Q7

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

LABELLA

85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye.

Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eye-catching box-shaped shelves.

Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop.

Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts.

Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

LITI

GAYA CLOTHING

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) www.lolita.com.vn Tel: 3925 9993 Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-towear clothing for work or play

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET

89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array

114 | The Word February 2012

of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA

L’USINE

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

MANGO

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH

43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT

137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN

19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A longsleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailor-made clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END CHLOE

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI

M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian

brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE

M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE

211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from onepiece bikinis through to two-pieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns.

Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY

Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA

139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

LA SENZA

B1-45, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9302 9am to 10pm Offers a huge range of bras and underpants designed in various styles and for different purposes. This American brand also offers a wide selection of sweet and seductive lingerie items and swimsuits. A normal bra starts at VND300,000 while a silicon brazier goes for VND900,000. There is also a selection of invisible bras stocking at between VND1.5 million for a normal type and VND2 million for special version.

SSUZI

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL

94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging

MAI’S

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand

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from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR

spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars.

Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

SPORTS STREET

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALLERY

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH

HOANG DUNG

270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes.

They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles.

Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run

by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers.

Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists.

Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and

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Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists.

Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu

Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS

141 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 www.mekong-creations.org 9am to 8pm Mekong Creations is a project of the NGO Mekong Plus, designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia.

All products are locally produced, including paper mache, rattan and bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. A bamboo vase costs VND1.3 million and a rag ranges from VND400,000 to VND430,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

VIETNAM QUILTS

64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.vietnam–quilts.org 9am to 7pm Located opposite the Bitexco Financial Tower, Vietnam Quilts is a charity organisation aiming to help poor women in rural areas. The products are hand-made and there is a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within five to six weeks and there is also a selection of accessories including aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture.

All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs.

Their products are stocked at AA Deco.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by wellknown brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware.

Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks.

Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

DIABLO

LIVING & GIVING

CLIC CLAC SOFA

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

FURNITURE OUTLET

2C Nguyen Thanh Y, Q1 Tel: 3911 0104 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free

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Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

LE VU NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000.

Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony.

They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers.

Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM

42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai

between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292. www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications.

The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices.

Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087. www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

54 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh. Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of

VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate.

No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day.

You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

MEALS ON HEELS

Tel:0903 109 431 info@mealsonheels.asia Meals On Heels is a weekly catering service providing healthy home cooked meals. A new menu is released every Monday, which includes vegetarian options and kids portions. Meals are delivered fresh (not hot/not frozen) and can be reheated or frozen.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

REX HOTEL CATERING

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

info@saigoncateringco.com Tel: 0913 981128 (Ms Huong – Vietnamese) / 01214 401853 (Ms Ana – English) With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals.

Experienced with every conceivable style,

from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer.

Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer.

Open seven days a week.

THE CATERERS

LE COCHON D’OR

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu. Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE

Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1. Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen.net. vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1. Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh

32 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware.

Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 3306 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on– site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

February 2012 The Word | 119

generation v DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q 1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

JOHNNY’S WINE STOP

109 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 38234861 www.johnnyswinestop.com A small wine bar offering premium varietals at affordable prices. This wine bar, located on Dong Khoi, is open from 11am to 11pm daily and also offers tasting flights and a modest selection of imported beers.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town.

In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

120 | The Word February 2012

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 120 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 120 CLASSES & SPORTS 120 CLOTHING 121

BABY EQUIPMENT

visit wordhcmc.com for a RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL comprehensive list of our listings Tel: 01227 163844 EDUCATION 121 ENTERTAIMENT 122 KIDS' PARTIES 122 MEDICAL 123

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

ME OI

KINDERMUSIK

BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE

1B Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

generation v basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

Tel: 0907 099 480 goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from

an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING

rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Early Childhood - Primary Campus - 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle/Senior Campus – East -West Hwy | Q2 Tel: 3822 4992 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary,

middle and senior school campuses.

An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and

English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com Founded over 17 years ago and now with 850 students from Western and Asian countries, it offers a broad–based international education for children from two to 18 years, and is accredited by New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC). Recognized as an IB World School.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standard-

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s

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generation v based curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB 3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus

generation v new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter

eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2 Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a USbased curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

TINIWORLD 218 Pasteur, Q3 Tel; 38241385 www.tiniworld.com tiNiWorld is a chain of EDUTAINMENT centres that combines education and entertainment in an exciting, safe and social environment for kids aged from 2 to 12 years old.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168 www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT CIRCUS & FAIRGROUND Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Not stylish but fast paced and cheerful is the outdoor Circus and Fairground on Pham Ngu Lao. Shows on weekend nights at 7.45pm feature trapeze artists, fire eaters, dancing monkeys and other lively acts. Entrance is VND40,000 for adults and VND20,000 for children.

DIAMOND PLAZA

a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

PARKSON PLAZA

THE CATERERS

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2 Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do.

Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

Saigon Kids Where children grow with love and care.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

“Materials gather history as children play with them”

18 months – 6 years old.

Part-time and full-time attendance plans.

Enrolment throughout the year.

Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan Street, D.3 Tel: (08) 39325579 | www.saigonkidscentre.com

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses

Ho Chi Minh City Open 9 am - 7 pm everyday

Hanoi Open 9 am - 9 pm everyday

64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 083 914 2119 mekong.quilts.hcm@gmail.com

13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3926 4831 mekong.quilts.hn@gmail.com

NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 08 2210 3110 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt1@gmail.com NEW SHOP: S17-Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, D7 Tel: 08 6271 7758 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt7@gmail.com

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Hanoi

Q&A: CAROLYN SHINE / CREATIVE INKING

Q&A

Single White Female in Hanoi Carolyn Shine talks to David Stout about her new book and gender roles in the city. Photo by Tara Winkler CONGRATULATIONS ON THE LAUNCH OF YOUR BOOK SINGLE WHITE FEMALE IN HANOI! WHAT FEEDBACK HAVE YOU RECEIVED SO FAR? To my surprise, I haven’t had any negative feedback, and all reviews have been good, so I’m just waiting for something a bit more critical. I’ve been surprised by the number of people who write to me to tell me how much they relate to my experiences in the book, which is essentially a comedic romp through culture shock and my education in cultural relativism. By this I mean that I turned up [to Hanoi] naively expecting to be charmed by Vietnamese culture, and when it failed to charm me I was plunged into great confusion.

FROM WHAT WE’VE READ, THE BOOK FOCUSES QUITE A BIT ON HOW GENDER ROLES PLAY OUT IN HANOI AND HOW THIS AFFECTED YOUR RELATIONSHIPS — BOTH INTIMATE AND PLATONIC. CAN YOU EXPAND ON THIS? In the book, I focus mainly on cultural

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differences. But you’re probably aware of the furor that resulted from my CNNgo article, which explored gender roles. In it, I documented and discussed the fact that historically, western men have easily been able to get together with Asian women, but not the other way round. I wrote about how Vietnamese males are generally not reared to be the kind of guys that could charm a western woman, and also the reasons why they, in turn, tend not to be attracted to western women. The feedback I received after this article ranged between plaudits from Vietnamese women, to hate mail from Vietnamese men accusing me of wanting to destroy their culture by seducing them. The vast majority of the mail I received, though, came from Vietnamese men who left their phone numbers.

HOW DO YOU THINK DEVELOPMENT IN VIETNAM WILL AFFECT GENDER ROLES IN THE FUTURE? I have mixed feelings about the likely future of gender roles in Vietnam. I think that because it is opening up to the West

so quickly, it’s beginning to examine itself — where it’s from, and where it might go in the future. Vietnamese people are, perhaps for the first time, beginning to wonder what they look like from a western viewpoint. You might call it cultural self-awareness. It is a very exciting time for Vietnam right now, but also difficult, because some very old cultural traditions are threatened by modernisation. And, of course, the strongest traditions in Vietnam revolve around marriage and family. I think modernisation will affect males and females differently. It will liberate Vietnamese women, as with more economic independence, they will begin to eschew their traditional roles. Divorce rates will continue to climb and unmarried women will choose to marry later and focus on education. There will also be an echelon of disaffected Vietnamese males, who are confused about their identity. It’s sad to think how much traditional culture may be lost, but as a westerner and a feminist, I’m compelled to recognise that, for Vietnamese women, there are exciting times ahead.

WE HAVEN’T SEEN A COPY OF THE BOOK IN HANOI YET. ARE THERE PLANS TO RELEASE IT HERE? HOW ABOUT A VIETNAMESE TRANSLATION? I’m sure the bootlegs will be appearing soon on a corner near you. As for translation, well, translation between any two languages is a fraught and highly subjective process. The greater the difference between the two cultures, the harder this process becomes. Translation between Vietnamese and English, and especially English into Vietnamese, is really tricky. I contend the latter is harder because English is the world’s most open language and has an extraordinarily vast vocabulary of imported words and concepts.

My story is told from the unmistakable and very nuanced viewpoint of a westernised female. This means taking for granted that the reader is likely to have, for example, watched The Simpsons, taken recreational drugs, considered whether or

"My story is told from the unmistakable and very nuanced viewpoint of a westernised female. This means taking for granted that the reader is likely to have, for example, watched The Simpsons, taken recreational drugs, considered whether or not the world still exists when they close their eyes" not the world still exists when they close their eyes. They have taken in, if not the discourses, then at least the ambience of feminism, existentialism, hedonism. Even the title of my book is a cultural reference that doesn’t translate. Every effort to translate it in the Vietnamese press has resulted in something akin to ‘Lonely western young woman in Hanoi’, which has a completely different meaning.

There have been a few offers from Vietnamese publishing houses wanting to translate Single White Female in Hanoi,

but I haven’t signed off on anything yet, because, given the culture chasm that comes across in their correspondence, their budget, and also their very poor English, I feel concerned that a good translation might be beyond their means, if such a thing is even possible. Since there’s no real money to be made out of the deal, my only interest would be to promote cross-cultural understanding, so if the translation is poor, there’s no advantage I can see.

This interview has been edited and condensed

February 2012 The Word | 125

CREATIVE INKING LEISURE & WELLNESS

Hai Vu looks at the changing tattoo scene in Vietnam — past and present — to discover that what was once taboo is now an act of creative expression. Photos by Dominic Blewett

T

o the western eye, tattoos have become nothing more than fashion accessories —albeit very permanent ones. A form of personal expression once relegated to society’s underbelly, the tattoo has planted itself firmly into our cultural psyche. With notable international celebrities, such as David Beckham and Angelina Jolie, sacrificing their skin to the art, perceptions about tattoos have definitely changed in the last decade. Tattoos have become mainstream, perhaps even pedestrian. It’s difficult to argue otherwise when they can be seen paraded around by an endless drove of 20-something urbanites on any given weekend.

However, in Asia, where the roots of tradition are implanted far deeper, the topic of tattooing is still quite taboo. It may be slow in coming, but one can sense change brewing in the minds of Vietnam’s younger population. As the generation gap widens,

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the strict ideologies passed down from previous generations are left in the fray. The youth of Vietnam are looking to build new traditions, but are treading lightly when doing so.

“No one has ever disqualified me for a job because I have a tattoo,” says Vu Manh Cuong, 27, from Hanoi. A native of Vietnam, Cuong recently returned to Hanoi after studying in Sweden for four years. While there, he met a beautiful tattoo artist at a party, and, a few days later, he found himself in her tattoo chair sacrificing 5 percent of his arm to her. “However,” Cuong continues, “I do care about what Vietnamese partners think of me professionally. I hide it when meeting those who embrace traditional values; but I have never been stigmatized by anyone. In fact many people are interested in knowing where I got my tattoo done, and it is one of the things I love to show off to feel related to the youngsters here.”

This group of youngsters branded the “9X Generation” — a reference to those born in the 90’s — grew up in the country’s economic and developmental growth period. With opportunity at their doorsteps and the influences of the West a mouse click away, Vietnam’s youth have been empowered to experiment with various forms of fashion and artistic expression, including tattooing. They are doing so at the chagrin of the elder class, as many traditionalists still believe that body art is synonymous with society’s underbelly.

Kim Vy, 28, from Ho Chi Minh City, sports four tattoos: two on her ribs, one on her finger, and the latest on her leg. “There are a lot of people who cannot stand tattoos here. [They think] people who have tattoos have something wrong with them,” she says.

Vy’s older brother disapproves of her tattoos, but has accepted her choice to have them. Not everyone is as tolerant. “Yes, sometimes, I catch some annoyed eyes when [people] see my tattoos,” she says.

This stigma was the reason why Vy took great measures to hide her tattoos from family members for over a year. However, living in close quarters doesn’t leave much room for keeping secrets. It was inevitable that she would eventually be exposed.

“My mom saw the one on my leg first. I had to lie and say it was just a drawing. Eventually I got tired of hiding them and decided to tell her the truth. She was angry and shocked. She asked me, ‘Are you crazy? What happened to you? Do you know that you cannot remove them?’ But I told her that I don't have any intention of removing them.”

Changing Perceptions At the forefront of this culture sits Tran Chi Hieu, manager of the Hanoi Tattoo Club, which launched in Hanoi eight years ago. Hieu remembers the struggles in trying to gain acceptance for the art nearly a decade ago.

“Eight years ago, Vietnamese people despised tattoos because most of the people with tattoos [had a shady past]. They tattooed each other with needles wrapped with thread, and melted down their slippers to use as ink. But, in fact, tattooing appeared in Vietnam thousands of years ago.”

The period that Hieu refers to is that of the Hung Vuong era (circa 2879 BC), where legendary Vietnamese pearl divers tattooed elaborate images on their backs to fend off mythological sea monsters during their dives. So many of these men existed that when the first settlers of Vietnam established the state of Van Lang along the Red River Delta, it was dubbed “The Land of the Tattooed Men”.

Not a tattoo artist himself, Hieu employs seven young artists at the shop and provides them with a safe haven for exploring their creativity, including opportunities to draw and paint flash art, lessons in tattooing, and nightly musical jam sessions.

“I saw that the Vietnamese had the wrong impression about tattoos, and I wanted to change that,” he says. “Plus, I wanted to create an opportunity [where] people with a passion for tattooing could make money from their skills.”

In a bold attempt to change the stereotype, Hieu also enforces a strict policy on who his club will work on. “The club rules are no swearing, no smoking, and no addictive drugs. Follow these rules and only then can you join the club and get tattooed by us.”

These days, the Hanoi Tattoo Club boasts a diverse clientele. The ratio of male to female customers is roughly 50/50 and includes both foreign and Vietnamese patrons.

“My happiness was at zero when I first opened because of the hardship I had to endure, but now I am at a seven,” says Hieu.

This still leaves room to further broaden the Vietnamese mindset toward tattoos, but it’s clear that Hieu won’t be fighting the crusade alone.

As Vietnamese youth are nursed on music, movies, and the internet, a line is being drawn between the modern and the traditional. With the country hurtling toward globalization, Vietnam has had to swiftly discover its own identity on the world stage.

Therefore, it seems only fitting that its children, too, are uncovering their own unique identities through this painful and everlasting form of creative expression.

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DU LICH

BATTAMBANG Thành phố lớn thứ hai của Campuchia này bị phần lớn khách du lịch bỏ qua do những điểm thu hút văn hóa phong phú của Siem Reap gần đó. Giờ đây nó bắt đầu được biết đến nhiều hơn. Viết bởi Nick Ross

Tiêng viêt HÒNH AÃNH BÚÃI PHILIP BURNETT / WWW.PHOTOPHIL.US

BATTAMBANG PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

C

huáng töi àûúåc thiïn nhiïn ûu àaäi khi thúâi tiïët thêåt àeåp – sau 14 tiïëng, keáo daâi trong hai ngaây, mïåt moãi ngöìi trïn xe buyát, thò àêy quaã laâ möåt sûå ûu aái nheå nhaâng. Trûúác tiïn, húi êëm vaâng rûåc cuãa mùåt trúâi súám mai traãi daâi trïn söng. Röìi mêy buöng xuöëng, böëc húi cuâng sûác noáng cuãa nùæng khi chuáng töi nhùæm phña bùæc hûúáng vïì àïìn Ek Phnom cuãa thúâi àaåi Angkor. Giúâ àêy khi chuáng töi laâm möåt voâng quanh khu vûåc nhaâ maáy Pepsi bõ boã hoang, núi vêîn coân trûng caái logo cuä kyä, trúâi trong xanh, nhû chaâo mûâng caái laånh cuãa Thaáng Chaåp trong khñ trúâi nhiïåt àúái. Ðêy laâ Battambang, thaânh phöë lúán thûá hai cuãa Campuchia. Bêët kïí kñch thûúác cuãa noá nhû thïë naâo, thaânh phöë naây toaát ra veã kiïën truác thuöåc àõa tónh leã àûúåc xêy dûång trïn nïìn àêët truäng ngêåp nûúác. Möåt ngûúâi Siem Reap àõa phûúng - anh Sopheara cho hay, nhûäng con àûúâng cöí xûa vûúåt thúâi gian cuãa ngaây nay àaä tûâng vùæng boáng

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nhûäng cûãa haâng úã möåt thêåp kyã trûúác. Anh chó vaâo nhûäng daäy nhaâ trûúác nùm 75 nùçm doåc trïn nhûäng con àûúâng chaåy àan xen nhû baân cúâ gêìn khu vûåc chúå. Anh noái: "Têët caã cûãa chúáp àaä àoáng röìi. Chùèng coá gò àïí mua."

Anh tiïëp tuåc: "Töi nhúá khi àang ài trïn chiïëc xe lûãa bùçng tre chúã du khaách tham quan thò xe lûãa thêåt àïën vaâ chuáng töi phaãi ra khoãi àûúâng ray vaâ chúâ cho àïën khi noá ài qua."

Chuáng töi chûa kõp hoaân thaânh hïët chuyïën xe lûãa bùçng tre naâo nhûng hïå thöëng xe lûãa Campuchia seä bõ thaáo dúä.

Nhûng chuáng töi àïí daânh chuyïën ài xe lûãa coá veã lûúâi biïëng naây cho nhûäng kïë hoaåch cuãa ngaây tiïëp theo. Cuöåc söëng tröi thêåt chêåm úã thaânh phöë naây, vaâ àïí nhû khöng khñ xung quanh, chuáng töi phaãi boáp thùæng giaãm töëc àöå söëng öìn aâo vaâ choáng mùåt cuãa möåt àö thõ hiïån àaåi núi chuáng töi àïën tûâ. ÚÃ àêy, thúâi gian dûúâng nhû àûáng yïn hïët mûác. Giúâ àêy, khi chûáng kiïën sûå phaát triïín

cuãa àiïån thoaåi vaâ nhûäng cûãa haâng kim khñ àiïån maáy, hiïåu cùæt toác vaâ nhûäng nhaâ haâng daânh cho du khaách, noá àang cöë gùæng leo lïn phña trûúác. Noá phaát triïín, nhûng khöng nhanh.

Đáng Đồng Tiền Bát Gạo Tûâ khi hoâa bònh àûúåc cöng böë vaâo nùm 1999, Campuchia àaä chûáng kiïën sûå gia tùng cêëp söë nhên cuãa ngaânh du lõch quöëc tïë. Viïåc böå phim Tomb Raider àûúåc quay úã Angkor Wat thêåt sûå giuáp ñch, caác khu nhaâ coá kiïën truác thuöåc àõa vaâ hêåu thuöåc àõa úã nhûäng thaânh phöë lúán coá giaá cho thuï tûúng àöëi reã, vaâ núái loãng luêåt kinh doanh möåt caách àaáng ngaåc nhiïn. Nhûng sûå buâng nöí phaát triïín chó thêåt sûå têåp trung úã Siem Reap, Phnom Penh vaâ Sihanoukville.

Kampot vaâ Kep cuäng bõ aãnh hûúãng, nhûng ngoaâi àoá ra, hêìu hïët phêìn lúán nhûäng thaânh phöë thõ trêën cuãa quöëc gia múái thûác giêëc naây vêîn chûa àûúåc àuång túái. Battambang – àoåc laâ Ba-tom-bong - cuäng vò laâ möåt àõa

February 2012 The Word | 131

núi naây coá luác àaä àûúåc dûång thaânh möåt nhaâ maáy àaá – àoá laâ vaâo khoaãng thúâi gian Khmer Ðoã vaâ ài theo àoá laâ nhûäng bïë tùæc xung àöåt. Nhûng giúâ àêy ngoaâi ngöi nhaâ bïn ngoaâi àûúåc duâng nhû nhaâ xe vaâ möåt khu àûúåc sûãa thaânh nhaâ bïëp búãi möåt ngûúâi phuå nûä, chuáng töi àoaán tûâ nhûäng lïìu laán ngoaâi kia, biïíu tûúång thûúng maåi tûâ phûúng Têy naây àang dêìn dêìn bõ thúâi tiïët vaâ nùm thaáng ùn moân.

Khi chuáng töi sùæp rúâi ài, möåt àaám treã àang nghõch trïn xe àaåp. Chuáng bõ hêëp dêîn búãi maáy chuåp aãnh cuãa chuáng töi vaâ möåt àûáa, àûa caái mùåt ngúâ nghïåch ra quyïët àõnh laâm daáng. Röìi möåt ngûúâi phuå nûä treã xuêët hiïån tûâ möåt buåi cêy gêìn àoá, cö mùåc saâ-röng vaâ chiïëc aáo thun coá chûä Diet Coke. Cö khöng hiïíu àûúåc yá nghôa vaâ tñnh chêët cuãa caái tûâ trïn aáo cö. ÚÃ àêy coá caã möåt lõch sûã, nhûng ai àoá ài theo phong caách ngûúâi Khmer hiïån àaåi laåi chùèng coân bao nhiïu neát lõch sûã àoá.

Tàu Lửa Tre

àiïím khöng àûúåc nhiïìu ngûúâi biïët àïën nïn àúâi söëng úã àêy khaá khoá khùn. Cho túái têån bêy giúâ vêîn vêåy. Ðûúåc yïu cêìu laâm möåt voâng tûâ Siem Reap, chuáng töi ngöìi trïn möåt chiïëc taâu nhòn ra quang caãnh söng nûúác tuyïåt àeåp, noá chuyïn chúã du khaách qua laåi trïn söng Tonle Sap àïën khu vûåc àïìn àaâi cuãa nhûäng giêëc mú. Giöëng nhû chuáng töi, nhûäng ngûúâi àïën Battambang àïìu yïu núi naây. Möåt phêìn laâ vò veã àeåp hoang sú cuãa thaânh phöë naây. Dõch vuå thò…, vò vêîn coân mang neát àùåc trûng cuãa möåt núi vûâa múã cûãa chaâo àoán thïë giúái, nïn coân rêët chêåm, thûác ùn àûúåc mang ra cuâng luác vaâ khöng àöìng böå. Ðöì ùn Têy thò àún giaãn vaâ chaán ngùæt, laâm cho êím thûåc vûâa reã hún vûâa ngon hún cuãa ngûúâi Khmer àûúåc chaâo àoán vaâ thay thïë. Nhûng àoá cuäng laâ

möåt phêìn quyïën ruä cuãa núi naây. Möåt vaâi nùm nûäa thöi, têët caã seä thay àöíi, nhûng hiïån taåi àoá laâ möåt hên hoan khi coá thïí ùn möåt bûäa thõnh soaån vúái giaá dûúái 10,000 riel (khoaãng 50,000 àöìng) thay vò bõ tra têën búãi nhûäng khu vûåc ùn uöëng daânh riïng cho du khaách. Nïn thûúãng thûác moán huã tiïëu Nam Vang theo phong caách Khmer pha Thaái nùçm kïë bïn nhaâ haâng White Rose trong thaânh phöë. Noá ngon khaác xa so vúái moán àoá úã Viïåt Nam.

Người Gác Cửa Trong caái nhaâ maáy Pepsi cuä kyä maâ chuáng töi àûúåc pheáp ài lanh quanh, möåt ngûúâi àaân öng giaâ, tröng nhaâ maáy, khöng coân rùng vaâ khöng àöìng phuåc àaä miïîn cûúäng àïí chuáng töi bûúác vaâo. Öng àaä chûáng kiïën rêët nhiïìu sûå thay àöíi maâ àïën caã öng

cuäng khöng coân nhúá nöíi. Öng cho hay, öng khöng dûå àõnh cho chuáng töi vaâo vaâ röìi sau naây chuáng töi cuäng phaát hiïån nhiïìu du khaách vaâ nhûäng taâi xïë xe tuk-tuk vaâo khu phûác húåp naây maâ khöng cêìn sûå cho pheáp cuãa öng. Öng noái, hoå àïën röìi ài, chùèng buöìn caám ún. Caám ún nghôa laâ tiïìn boa úã Campuchia, àiïìu naây quan troång nhû baãn thên nïìn du lõch. Khöng coá vùn hoáa àöìng àö-la úã àêy hay úã kia, caã möåt nïìn cöng nghiïåp seä suåp àöí. Noá chó laâ nhûäng lïå phñ thöng thûúâng cuãa chi phñ haâng ngaây, nhûng ngûúâi àõa phûúng laåi xem àoá laâ cêìn thiïët.

Nhaâ maáy bõ khoáa ngoaâi, nhûng vêîn coá àuã nhûäng ö cûãa söí, löëi ài vaâ khe húã cho chuáng töi ài vaâo. Ngoaâi nhûäng laán lïìu cuãa caác gia àònh trïn nïìn àêët, toaân böå cú ngúi àaä trúã nïn hoang maåc. Chuáng töi àûúåc biïët

"Nên thưởng thức món hủ tiếu Nam Vang theo phong cách Khmer pha Thái nằm kế bên nhà hàng White Rose trong thành phố. Nó ngon khác xa so với món đó ở Việt Nam." 132 | The Word February 2012

Chó ài thïm vaâi km, chuáng töi lêìn thûá hai gùåp khu vûåc cöí kñnh khaác, nhûng lêìn naây mang àêåm chêët tön giaáo. Bêët cûá ai cuäng seä phaãi höëi tiïëc vò àaä boã xe tuk tuk laåi khi ài tham quan khu vûåc Ek Phnom naây do sûå to lúán huâng vô cuãa Angkor. Nhûng chó cêìn laâ möåt ngöi àïìn thöi, noá cuäng xûáng àaáng àûúåc laâm möåt voâng tham quan. Möåt bûác tûúång Phêåt khöíng löì maâu trùæng àûúåc chùm soác saåch seä ngöìi gêìn löëi ra, saát bïn laâ ngöi chuâa bùæt mùæt, àùåc trûng nhûng bïìn vûäng cuãa ngûúâi Khmer. Trang hoaâng vúái nhûäng con röìng sún vaâng, nhûäng con voi maâu xanh dûúng, nhûäng bûác tranh kïí vïì cuöåc söëng cuãa Ðûác Phêåt vaâ nhûäng chi tiïët hoa vùn bùçng bï töng, àêy laâ möåt trong nhûäng phiïn baãn rûåc rúä dïåt nïn têëm thaãm àeåp àeä cuãa toaân àêët nûúác. Trong khi nhûäng di tñch àïìn Angkor nùçm laåi phña sau àaánh dêëu möåt Campuchia cöí xûa, thò ngöi chuâa naây laåi laâ biïíu hiïån cuãa möåt àêët nûúác hiïån àaåi ngaây nay. Caã hai àïìu àûúåc yïu thñch.

Tuy nhiïn nhû vúái têët caã caác àõa àiïím du lõch vùn hoáa quan troång khaác úã Campuchia, chuáng töi buöåc phaãi traã phñ vaâo cöíng trong khi ngûúâi baån Khmer cuãa chuáng töi àûúåc miïîn phñ – chên àõa phûúng thò töët, chên nûúác ngoaâi töët hún. Giaá veá úã àêy chó 2 àö (42,000 àöìng) cho möåt chuyïën tham quan voâng quanh khu vûåc, vaâ röìi chuáng töi phaát hiïån noá cuäng bao göìm caã phñ vaâo cöíng cuãa Phnom Sampov, hang Killing Caves nùçm hûúáng àöng nam cuãa Battambong (chuáng töi luác àoá thêåt sûå chûa àûa soaát veá nïn chuáng töi phaãi goåi àiïån thoaåi cho baão vïå àïí chùæc chùæn mònh àûúåc vaâo). Bêët kïí nhû thïë naâo, thò têët caã àoá laâ phên àoaån cuãa lïî höåi vùæt sûäa bï maâ thûúâng àïí

February 2012 The Word | 133

The Final Say WHAT'S YOUR TYPE? / ON THE STOOL

laåi dû võ, àùåc biïåt khi ngûúâi àõa phûúng àûúåc miïîn phñ. Cho duâ Campuchia coá ngheâo nhû thïë naâo ài chùng nûäa, sûå phên biïåt àöëi xûã vêîn laâ möåt phêìn khöng àûúåc chúâ àúåi trong chuyïën ài, àùåc biïåt khi nhûäng ngûúâi àõa phûúng thuöåc têìng lúáp thûúång lûu cuäng àûúåc hûúãng nhûäng thaânh tûåu vùn hoáa miïîn phñ.

Chuyïën xe lûãa bùçng tre ngaây höm sau thêåt sûå àùæt àoã. Möîi ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi traã 5 àö (105,000 àöìng) cho möåt chuyïën ài daâi 14km trong khi àoá dên àõa phûúng cuäng phaãi traã tiïìn – 2 àö (42,000 àöìng). Mùåc duâ chuáng töi phaãi boa cho ngûúâi taâi xïë, hoå vêîn thu àûúåc rêët nhiïìu tiïìn qua dõch vuå naây, noá laâ möåt chuyïën ài àaáng giaá. Sau cuâng thò àêy cuäng laâ chuyïën taâu cuöëi cuâng úã Campuchia.

Cêìn phaãi laâm roä xe lûãa bùçng tre laâ nhû thïë naâo. Laâ möåt phûúng tiïån chuã yïëu coá bïì mùåt bùçng tre, vúái chöî ngöìi cho saáu ngûúâi vaâ àûúåc lùæp trïn nhûäng baánh xe thaáo gúä àûúåc cuâng vúái möåt àöång cú xe maáy. Haäy thûã tûúãng trong nhûäng phim miïìn Têy hoand daä, caác nhên vêåt chñnh mûu meåo duâng nhûäng phûúng tiïån tûå lùn bùçng caách lúåi duång àûúâng ray xe lûãa thò baån seä hònh dung àûúåc. Nhûng trong trûúâng húåp naây, noá chaåy àûúåc nhúâ möåt mö-tú.

Töi àaä ài thùm hïët caác àõa àiïím tham quan cuãa vuâng naây. Töi cuäng löåi biïín vaâo

134 | The Word February 2012

möåt buöíi trûa say xûa úã möåt nöng traåi nuöi haãi saãn, àaä thong dong chaåy xe 70km xuöëng döëc, treâo nuái, khaám phaá caác hang àöång àêìy dúi, búi qua khu vûåc taâu àùæm vaâ caã leo nuái lûãa. Nhûng àêy laâ möåt trong nhûäng chuyïën ài kyâ laå nhêët maâ töi tûâng traãi qua. Ngöìi trïn möåt têëm phaãn bùçng tre cûáng ngùæc dûúái mùåt trúâi choái chang thò thêåt sûå khöng dïî chõu chuát naâo. Noá chó laâ thiïëu sûå cêìn thiïët cho caã chuyïën thaám hiïím, trûâ khi baån muöën àûúåc diïîn möåt caãnh trong phim Brother, Wherefore Art Thou? Khöng chó khu vûåc ngoaåi ö múái àeåp maâ coân rêët vui, àùåc biïåt khi nhûäng chuyïën taâu khaác cöë gùæng vûúåt qua tûâ nhûäng hûúáng ngûúåc laåi. Ngûúâi naâo thùæng seä àûúåc úã laåi trïn àûúâng trong khi keã chiïën baåi seä phaãi thaáo dúä nhûúâng àûúâng àûáng qua möåt bïn. Ðoá laâ möåt quaá trònh thaáo dúä phûác taåp.

Ngûúåc laåi, caãnh haâng triïåu con dúi hay nhiïìu hún nöëi àuöi nhau bay trong hoaâng hön úã Phnom Sampov laâ möåt trong nhûäng hònh aãnh àêìy caãm hûáng nhêët maâ baån tûâng chiïm ngûúäng trong vuâng naây, hay nhû nhûäng caãnh löìng löång àêìy gioá àûáng tûâ àónh nuái àaá vöi naây núi maâ coá leä laâ möåt baán àaão kiïíu Võnh Haå Long trïn biïín trûúác

khi con söng Mekong böìi àùæp búâ àêët.

Vaâ coá leä àêy laâ àõnh nghôa töët nhêët vïì Battambang. Laâ núi vúái nhûäng phong caãnh phi thûúâng, gùæn liïìn vúái veã àeåp tûå nhiïn gêy toâ moâ hêëp dêîn. Vaâ cuäng laâ núi chûa coá nhiïìu caác dõch vuå du lõch àïí coá thïí thêåt sûå tiïu tiïìn. Nhûng laâ àiïím àïën múái meã, múã röång chaâo àoán hoaân toaân úã Campuchia, thaânh phöë naây nïn laâ möåt phêìn quan troång trong nhûäng chuyïën du lõch àïën Campuchia cuãa baån.

THE FINAL SAY

Bursting with Bubbly The language of love is often expressed with a glass of bubbly but Champagne is starting to take off in Vietnam as a symbol of success, too. Words by Nick Ross. Illustrations by Vincent Bertholon

O

ne of the best selling wines in this country is the Torley Hungarian Charmant Rose. Poured onto a pyramid of margarita-style glasses, it trickles down the vessels and begins to steam with the help of dryice substitutes. Under the spotlights — for the wedding-goers impressed by glitz and bling — the effect of this Champagnestyle drink is sparkling. It’s a scene typical of such functions the length and breadth of Vietnam.

That this sweet wine is only drunk by the bride, groom and perhaps the heads of the family, is lost on everyone. There is a greater, more important significance at work. It’s the sparkle effect, the concept of drinking wine with bubbles at celebrations, particularly when love is involved. More ironic is the name given to the wine. It’s not a Champagne because it’s not a blend of three varietals only produced in Champagne, a province of northeast France. And Champagne, as we are constantly told, is fermented in the bottle while most sparkling variations are fermented in the barrel.

Not that this matters to revelers in Vietnam. The same goes for cava, prosecco, Hungarian pezsgo, German sekt and all other variations of wine with bubbles. If it sparkles, in Vietnam it gets branded Champagne.

Let the Good Times Role It’s of little surprise that Champagne — the real version — is taking off in Vietnam. There is a wealthy elite for whom money, except for the process of gaining it, is of little object.

Then there are the 200,000 or so non-Vietnamese passport holders living in this country. For a large number of this population, drinking Champagne is part of the culture. Even the importers have seen the results.

According to Nicolas Delion of Champagne brand Taittinger, Vietnam is presently one of the biggest growth markets in the world for Champagne. From August 2010 to August 2011, shipments of bubbly increased by 130 percent.

“Vietnamese are now perceiving the luxury celebration aspect of Champagne,” says Nicolas. “On occasions such as openings, fashion shows and, increasingly, birthdays and weddings, they are opting more and more for Champagne as the drink of choice.”

Restaurateur Donald Berger has noticed a similar trend.

“I am seeing more Vietnamese ordering top-end Champagnes, and not so much the non-vintage,” he explains.

“Interestingly, I am seeing mostly Vietnamese men order Champagne, and this is a new phenomena. Before the Vietnamese did not like the effervescence of sparkling wine much at all.”

136 | The Word February 2012

Conversely, says Donald, his non-Vietnamese customers are drinking more cava. This, he believes, is a sign of recession and a worried economy.

“People still want to drink but are balking at spending money the way they used to. Even our [biggest spenders] are checking prices carefully before they order.”

To the Top The rise in Champagne sales says much about the Vietnam of today. From the outside looking in, this is a successful economy. National GDP growth last year was 5.89 percent, with Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City hitting even higher. And with wealth in this country comes status. There’s no better way to express your standing than by having a vintage whiskey or a bottle of top-end Champagne sitting on your table.

“Paying a high price for a bottle of Champagne is a symbol of personal accomplishment,” says Wilfried Bourceau from Warehouse. “So when people celebrate or want to impress, they purchase a bottle that reflects their success.”

Saigon-based wine distributer Jim Cawood of Vino adds: “Drinking Champagne says ‘I have made it’… That is no different in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong or LA. “Young Vietnamese people, particularly women, are starting to have more disposable income,” says Jim. “They don't want to drink whiskey or Cognac, but want to be able to go out and show that they to have money and are sophisticated. So they pitch for Champagne.”

Another attraction of course is the romance. There is something about the buzz of having a few glasses of Champagne, about the shape of the glass, fineness of the bubbles and the creaminess of the palate. And the aroma — toast, nuts and stone fruits. It is no surprise that scores of historical figures have waxed lyrical about their favourite drink.

“I drink Champagne when I win, to celebrate… and I drink Champagne when I lose, to console myself,” said Napoleon Bonaparte, while British playwright and director Noel Coward asked, “Why do I drink Champagne for breakfast?

Doesn't everyone?” And even novelist Mark Twain pitched in: “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.”

Whether the guests at weddings will be saying the same after watching the Torley Rose fountain at work is doubtful.

But what is clear is that good times or bad, Champagne is making headway into this country — not just as a celebratory drink, but as a symbol of success and a daily tipple of choice.

February 2012 The Word | 137

{crossword}

family guy

Answers on page 4

SHOW ME THE MONEY! 1

2

3

4

5

6

73. One who can look into the future 74. Have a gut feeling 7

8

9

10

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

24

25

22

11

12

13

1. “By Jove!”

2. Prefix with violet or sonic 3. Resident of Italy’s capital 4. 11-nation oil org.

26

28 34

35

29

36

37

41

31 39

43

45

46 50

30

38

42

49

27 32

33

48

51

52

5. Messages that computer users usually delete without reading: 2wds.

6. Flower part

60

61

55

53

62

63

66

67

70

71

73

56 64

68

74

The first and second person to send in all ten answers correctly to christine@wordhcmc.com will win a free 40hr Vietnamese course and two free 20hr Talk Vietnamese courses, respectively, at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS) school.

In lieu of Valentine’s Day this month, VLS had created a crossword dedicated to love

8. Film ____ (movie creating a sense of pessimism and despair)

1.

9. Portuguese currency unit before 2002

2.

10. Specialty of David Copperfield and David Blaine

3.

11. ET ____ (Latin for “and others”) 54

57

58

65

59

12. Allergic skin reaction 13. Model builder’s sets 21. Medical insurance plan, for short

69

23. ____ code (statutes dealing with crimes and their punishment)

72

26. ____ out (really relax, in slang)

75

28. Bangladesh currency unit 30. “What seems ___ the problem?”: 2wds.

31. Thomas Edison’s middle name

5) True or False: The mascot for Quahog is a clam.

6) What is the name of the KISS concert that Peter and Lois go to?

8) What is the name of the fish that Peter, Joe, Quagmire and Cleveland go hunting for?

9) What is the name of the pub that Peter makes in his basement?

11) Why does Peter have to replace Death?

7.

12) What lives in Chris' closet?

8.

13) What name did KISS give Lois?

9.

14) Which members have had liposuction?

10.

15) With Peter's welfare money what does he buy that surrounds his house?

41. Israeli currency units

34. Letters stamped on a meat package

1) This kind of weather usually makes you miss

43. Venezuelan currency unit

35. Where a goatee grows

him/her the most.

10. German currency unit before 2002

45. Currency unit of several Middle Eastern countries

36. ____ a hand (help out)

14. Mushy food

46. Adolescent

42. Explode

15. Currency units in Mexico and several South American countries

48. South African monetary unit

44. Traveling in the right direction: 2wds.

49. What “&” means

47. Suffix of superlatives

16. jai ____ (handball relative)

50. Alien spaceships

51. French currency units before 2002

4) You don’t need it to find love, but you need

17. “Don’t look ____!” (“I didn’t do it!”): 2wds.

52. Automobile

53. “Just ___ feared”: 2wds.

it to develop your love.

18. Storage space under a roof

54. Procedure performed by a paramedic

54. Tree with fragrant wood

19. General idea

55. New Mexico resort and art colony

56. Middle-____ (fortysomethings)

20. Greek currency unit before 2002

57. Boat that Noah built

57. Guy who writes commercials

22. Indonesian currency units

60. Spanish currency units before 2002

58. Send in, as payment

24. ___ Francisco

64. Netherlands currency unit before 2002

59. Danish monetary unit

25. 2,055, to Caesar

66. Very dry, as a desert

60. Buddies

27. Month between Nov. and Jan.

67. More friendly

61. One of the Great Lakes

28. Come ____ screeching halt: 2wds.

69. Bullets, BBs and spitballs

62. Title of royalty

29. Prince William’s school

70. Italian currency unit before 2002

63. Small, medium or large

31. “Atlas Shrugged” author ___ Rand

71. Former Russian emperors

65. It flows down the sides of a volcano

34. West Coast school that’s home to the Bruins

72. Conceited

68. Is able to

138 | The Word February 2012

4) What is the bartender’s name at the pub that Peter goes to?

6.

33. Dweeb

38. Concerning monetary unit

3) What is Quagmire's full name?

10) Peter's spiritual guide is The Fonz: True or False?

39. Once in ____ moon: 2wds.

5. Backbone

2) How old is Brian?

5.

32. Chinese monetary unit

1. Currency unit which has replaced the 10-Across, 20-Across, 60-Across, 64-Across, 70-Across, 9-Down and 51-Down

1) What did Peter first experience when he was 30?

7) What is the name of Peter's boat that he buys at an auction?

4.

37. Villain in Shakespeare’s “Othello”

ACROSS

WIN !!

ES PRIZ

7. Suffix with guitar, art or novel

40

44

47

Quiz

75. Opening poker contribution DOWN

23

pop lingo

{MANIA }

6) A type of flower that stands for love.

7) The Vietnamese word for “girlfriend”.

2) The Vietnamese word for “love”.

8) This is how you can wear her lipstick.

3) Love someone with all your “...”.

9) This is what you feel when what you want to happen happens.

10) The final stage of a relationship when your 5) The Vietnamese word for “boyfriend”

love is bound by law.

16) What does Peter promise Meg if she takes the blame for the cable crash?

17) When Peter becomes president of the school council, what does he get to patrol the hallways?

18) What becomes a illegal drug that school kids take?

19) When Brian joins the police force what does he do?

20) What is the name of the place that Stewie was supposed to have his first birthday party at?

Answers on page 2

on THE

STOOL From a successful career in advertising to developing a contemporary restaurant chain, Hana Dang is an entrepreneur typical of modern day Saigon.

Photo by EJ Chung

THE PERSON

THE BUSINESS

WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT HAPPINESS?

YOU'VE GONE FROM A SUCCESSFUL CAREER IN ADVERTISING TO BECOMING A RESTAURANTEUR. SOME OF THE NAYSAYERS OUT THERE MAY TELL YOU TO STICK TO THE DAY JOB. HOW WOULD YOU ANSWER THEM?

A glass of wine after a round of golf

WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST FEAR? Not having the energy to create more ideas and bring them to full fruition

WHICH TALENT WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO HAVE? To be able to sing well

WHAT IS THE TRAIT YOU MOST DEPLORE IN YOURSELF? Impatience

WHAT TRAIT DO YOU MOST DEPLORE IN OTHERS? Dishonesty

IF YOU WERE TO DIE AND COME BACK AS A PERSON OR THING, WHAT WOULD IT BE? I would be me again except that I would have a good voice

WHAT IS YOUR MOST TREASURED POSSESSION? My crazy ideas

WHAT DO YOUR CONSIDER YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT? To do what I love and am passionate about

WHAT IS YOUR MOTTO? To go after what I believe in, even when everyone around me thinks I'm crazy

140 | The Word February 2012

Advertising and the restaurant business have many similarities — they’re both serviceorientated and creative. The difference is that in advertising I sell ideas. In restaurants I sell food. It’s something more tangible, and it’s all about the taste

AT KOH THAI YOU'VE ATTEMPTED TO BRING QUALITY, CONTEMPORARY THAI CUISINE TO HO CHI MINH CITY. IT'S A NEW CONCEPT FOR A CITY STARVED OF GOOD SOUTHEAST ASIAN EATING OPTIONS. HOW DIFFICULT HAS IT BEEN? I love food and I particularly love Thai food.

I also love contemporary design. I can't change the way my house looks all the time, but in the restaurant business I can create an attractive, chic and aesthetically pleasing space. Of course it's not easy, but I have great partners and we have spent a lot of time in Thailand developing a menu that offers a balance of both classic and contemporary Thai cuisine. We’ve also worked hard on our cocktails.

YOU'RE IN THE PROCESS OF OPENING A SECOND KOH THAI IN THE CRESCENT. IS IT WISE TO EXPAND SO FAST OR IS THAT ALL PART OF THE PLAN? Koh Thai and Lau Xe Lua are the first two concepts being introduced by the Fine Cuisine Group — in April we will be

launching two more. Our vision is to be one of the leaders in stylish, contemporary Asian cuisine in Vietnam. So, yes, it’s part of a longterm plan.

YOUR OTHER RESTAURANT CONCEPT IS LAU XE LUA (TRAIN HOTPOT). FROM THE OUTSIDE IT LOOKS A BIT LIKE A HOTPOT VERSION OF THE ROTATING SUSHI CONCEPT THAT HAS TAKEN THE WORLD

BY STORM. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE IT AND HOW ARE THE CUSTOMERS TAKING TO THE THEME? Vietnamese love hot pot. It’s simple, easy and healthy. All our concept has been is to add a bit of fun to the dining experience, with a Hot Pot Train carrying a selection of ingredients that you can the add to the broth. There’s a bit of novelty involved, but so far the customers love the idea.