The Word Ho Chi Minh City March 2012 by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION MARCH 2012

The French

CONNECTION

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

Contents

wordhcmc.com

MARCH 2012

054

027

034

046 FEATURES 006 l The Prelude THE TALK 009 l The Big Five 010 l Just In 014 l In the Papers 018 l Word of Mouth 022 l Calendar 024 l Overscene INSIDER 008 l Flying the Flag Will the appointment of a new British Consular General mean a stronger British presence in the city’s overseas community?

027 l Tagging the Bunker Etched into an air raid bunker in the capital is the mysterious name, “BOB”. Now the man has been found we hear the story

058 l Mystery Diner Adding spiciness to our reviews, the flavour this month is Thai, with a hint of Khmer, Laotian and Burmese

2 | The Word March 2012

030 CONFESSIONS

OF A CYCLO DRIVER

Pedaling the streets for a living is one of the toughest jobs in Vietnam. Time to meet the men at the wheels

032 STOP

THE TRAFFIC

The exploitation and dehumanisation of those in poverty must be stopped

034 THE

FRENCH CONNECTION

France and Vietnam are indelibly linked by the past. But, have they found common ground in the present?

046 THE

MYANMAR SPECIAL

“This is Burma,” wrote Rudyard Kipling. “It is quite unlike any place you know about.” We couldn’t agree more

054 EATING

CHINATOWN

Delving into the heart of Cho Lon to satiate those Chinese food cravings can be daunting. But our insider’s guide will have you clanking chopsticks with the Hoas in no time

060 FOREVER

YOUNG

The mythical Fountain of Youth has become a drop of Botox in a syringe. But do we really need to stay wrinkle-free?

Trivia Buff Answers See p151 for the original puzzle 1) Thespis 2) Faberge 3) Christmas 4) Sirhan Bishara Sirhan 5) Oil Wells 6) Fidel Castro 7) A single-seater armed bi-plane used in WWI 8) 1908 9) Pierre Cardin 10) Swastika 11) Redbud 12) Lady Nancy Astor 13) Jamaica 14) Louis XIV 15) 1431 16) Cat 17) Roller Skates 18) Buffalo Soldiers 19) Ferdinand Marcos 20) US Marine Corps

060

COLUMNS 066 l Live In Saigon 098 l Cafe Critique 108 l Decks 'n Drums 144 l Map - Central HCMC CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HANOI 130 l The Ice Queen Be prepared to get a brain freeze

132 l Consider the Snail Despite their odd appearance, oc is a favourite snack of the locals

FINAL SAY 142 l He Says/She Says A controversial piece on what types of men and women are out there in the dating pool. Brace yourself 148 l On the Stool Dr Guillon takes the hot seat and tries to sum up his life in 500 words or less

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL CHRISTINE VAN

QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

JOHN THORNTON

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Art Director paolo@wordhcmc.com

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NGUYEN TAN LOC

Website Developer mark@wordhcmc.com

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JAMES ALLEN

VU HA KIM VY

Online Editor & Features Writer james@wordhcmc.com

Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS

Chief Editor & Deputy Director nick@wordhcmc.com

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LE DANG PHUONG TRANG

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D E

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F A U R

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D E

S A C S H

E I

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O U S

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H E

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word (Ho Chi Minh city và HaNoi) của C.ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

N O R

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

E G O K A A N S A T

T O P

Crossword Answers See p150 for the original puzzle. Pluzzle by Frank A. Longo Edited by Will Shortz

E A S

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Chi Nhánh Công Ty CP TM–DV– QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 54/26 Nguyễn Cư Trinh, P.PNL, Q. 1, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 / Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com

Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161–2011/CXB/154–07/LĐ ngày 17/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 06 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 17/01/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude L

ast month we were invited to have lunch with the French Consul General at his residence. The purpose of the meeting was to get to know more about each other — the media in Vietnam and the French community here. It’s not often one gets a chance to speak frankly about the two subjects with him. Issues such as politics, immigration, art, culture, food and even Celine Dion were discussed, but the key idea from this exchange developed into our cover story — The French Connection. How is the past, future and present interwoven? And how does

it influence the development of Vietnam? So, while the French theme runs through the whole issue, we haven’t gone completely Gallic on you. Take the story of the Australian tagger who etched his name into a wartime bunker in Hanoi in 1975, at a time when these dugouts were no longer used to keep safe from air raids. Then there are our conversations with the city’s cyclo drivers, the on-thestreet pedal fiends who were once the bastion of this city’s transportation network. From eating out in Chinatown and tackling human trafficking through

INBOX

to a controversial look at the city’s dating scene, we believe that this month’s episode of WORD is content-rich and will keep you satiated to the final page. Even the map is back, redrawn for the first time in, oh, we don’t know how long. We had a great time speaking to the people behind all these stories and we hope this reflects on the final product. So, tell us what you think. Is it all a load of tripe? Or is there something interesting in here worth talking about? Email your thoughts on christine@wordhcmc.com. Enjoy!

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION MARCH 2012

THE FRENCH THE FREN FR ENCH EN CH

CONNECTION ONNECTION CONNECTION NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Photo: Quinn Ryan Mattingly Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL CHRISTINE AT christine@wordhcmc.com cmc.com

THE REAL MCCOY (Road Rules, Feb. 2012)

Hi Pat, Read your article on the fake Waves. Wish I'd seen it before I bought my first used bike here. I knew there were fake products here but didn't know there were fake motorbikes. I saw an ad on Craigslist from an English guy who uses the name "Raven Motorbikes" for a Honda Dylan. I had never known much about bikes so I took a friend with me who knew more but sorry to say not quite enough. an When we tried it out it felt kind of rough but I thought, and my friend confirmed, that any Honda can ought be fixed up real easy and cheap here. The price was good at VND12.6 million so with that advice I bought it. So far in the first month I had to drop another VND5,250,000 into repairs and it still sucks. Every time I start it up (that is when it will start) it ends up with something new to fix. ber and serial number When looking at the ownership papers the guy's ‘mechanic’ drew my attention to the engine number to draw me away from seeing it as a make = DYOR. e a real Wave. Well a month later I went to a My worker told me it was a fake. The money wasted on that used bike could have almost bought me real Honda dealership and bought a new Vision which I am very happy with. — Andy D

A PILLAR OF INFORMATION

IT’S PEACHY KEEN

ERRATUM

(Tiny Tales from the Big City, Feb. 2012)

(Mystery Diner, Feb 2012)

(In the Frame, Feb. 2012)

I picked up the February issue of WORD magazine at yesterday's weekly ILV [International Ladies of Vietnam] meeting. What an interesting variety of articles as well as more info columns compared to other magazines. — Mrs Henny Schoute Bussolati

Mystery Diner failed to review Peaches’ top dish, Roti John, despite it being their second visit there! Also failed to discover that what everyone goes to Peaches for is the extremely friendly and civilised atmosphere there. Overall, very logical clear presentation and very high quality photos, and the usual interesting copy. — Andrew Hunt

6 | The Word March 2012

Jensen Moreno teaches Visual Arts at The American International School. We apologise for any inconvenience caused.

The Talk

THE

BIG

Flying the Flag T

The British community in this city needs some identity The celebration of cultural identity and history is a big deal in Vietnam. During Tet most people get a 10-day holiday and spend time with their family, remembering their ancestors, and asking for success and happiness for the coming year. Then there are the celebrations for the Liberation of Saigon, independence from the French, King Hung’s birthday and much more. The various embassies and overseas business groups in this country also support their roots. India holds a huge annual celebration for Diwali. America remembers independence and Thanksgiving. France has celebrations for Bastille Day and also runs an annual food and wine fair. Together with the Germans and Japanese, they also invest money in culture, bringing in a range of artists, musicians, writers and more to help make a connection between their own cultures and Vietnam. Singapore and Thailand also recognise their roots as do Australia, who are constantly active in the community.

8 | The Word March 2012

But in this field, Britain, one of the nations with the largest number of expats in Vietnam, does little. True, Burns Day, St. Andrew’s Day and St. David’s Day are celebrated here by members of the British community. But these celebrations don’t recognise the UK as a whole, only its constituent elements — in this case Wales and Scotland. In fairness, the British Business Group of Vietnam (BBGV) continues to be active in Vietnam. But as their name suggests, their focus is business. So, while they organise various seminars and networking events together with an annual Fun Run for charity, this doesn’t bring together the British community living in Vietnam allowing them to connect with their shared heritage. The goal of these events is to facilitate business and give something back to Vietnam, which they do with aplomb.

It’s Your Identity, Silly That Britain struggles to remember who it is despite its role in Vietnam is down largely

Mighty Blighty? The British Council does its bit to promote British culture to Vietnam. But it is only to the Vietnamese community. Likewise, the consulate and embassy put on occasional gatherings or parties for visiting dignitaries. They will even organise the odd reception for select members of the community. But, the British community at large is left wilting in the dark. There are no, all-inclusive celebrations of British culture. No national holiday events for everyone to come together to remember their roots. And it is here, no matter what goes on in the UK, that the various British organisations in this country are failing their subjects. There is now a new British Consul General, Douglas Barnes, in office in Ho Chi Minh City. With budget cuts in the UK, he lacks funds to organise anything off his own back. But, with a bit of willpower and the determination to work together with the British community, all this can be changed. The Vietnamese are proud to be Vietnamese. The Australians are proud to be Australian. The Indians are proud to be Indian. Wouldn’t it be nice for all those Brits out there to be proud to be British?

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

A WIN-WIN SITUATION

Vietnam’s first dual language 24-hour online discount store has now launched. Dubbed eWinWin, the Vietnamese and English language website has teamed up with various companies around the city to offer multiple exclusive discounts on various lifestyle products, from fashion, electronics and gifts to travel, automotive, health, and food & beverage deals. Based on the Groupon model famous worldwide, eWinWin.vn is the only discount website truly online. All the other services in Vietnam rely on physical coupons which are given by hand by a messenger after you pay online. Their coupon is just a code you receive immediately by SMS and by email. You can show it to the merchant and immediately redeem your deal. For more information, visit www.ewinwin.vn

PARISIAN GASTRONOMY French restaurant Le Bordeaux (72 – D2 Street, Binh Thanh) welcomes Pascal Barbot, chef and owner of Restaurant L’Astrance in Paris, France — rated the 13th best restaurant in the world in 2011 by the World’s Best Restaurant Guide — to its kitchen on Mar. 1. Working alongside chef Nguyen Manh Phuc, Barbot will prepare a special 10-course menu with selected wines for VND5,800,000. Very limited seating available. To reserve a table and for further info, call 3899 9831 or email bordeaux@hcm.vnn.vn. This event is presented and supported by Classic Fine Foods

JUNGLE FEVER

To celebrate its grand opening, downtown cafe and bistro City Garden (38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) will be hosting Jungle Fever, a night of beats, wine and beer on Friday Mar. 9. With well-known French DJ Kamel Night on the decks, expect a chilled but fun night of soul, reggae and funk. Add to this a free-flow of beer or wine for just VND100,000 between 7pm and 9pm, and the party should really kick off. City Garden sells reasonably priced Italian coffee and tasty juices together with casual dining fare, all in an outdoor, bamboo-clad environment.

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE to a problem of national identity. Ask Britons where they come from and their answers will vary. Some will say England, others Wales or Scotland, some Northern Ireland. But few will tell you they are British or from the UK. Likewise, in the UK there are no national, annual celebrations which celebrate being British. But that’s the problem. This isn’t the UK. Equally important are the roles of the embassy, consulate, British Council and BBGV in the community. The UK has much to celebrate. Its language, a hybrid of many others formed over 2,000 years, is the most widely spoken around the world. Even Vietnam has adopted English as its preferred language for international business. The modern, internationally-accepted economic framework has its roots in theory that was stimulated in the UK, as does the theoretical nature of politics the world over. Then there is the culture, technology and the sport. The TV and the telephone were invented by Scots. Football, at least in its present form, comes from the UK. As does cricket, rugby, hockey, tennis, badminton, squash and much more. The music emanating from this island state is some of the most influential and creative in the world, as is the art, design and cuisine presently being prepared in its capital.

the talk

SAIGON CYCLO CHALLENGE 2012

Saigon Children’s Charity (SCC) will host the 12th annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge this month. Held at The Crescent (Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hiung, Q7) on Mar. 10 from 8.30am to 11.30am, the event includes a cyclo race and lucky draw, with proceeds directed to the SCC and its various education initiatives, including scholarships, school buildings and vocational training. For more info, visit www.saigonchildren. com/events or call 083 930 3502

THE PRODIGY COMETH

It’s time to stop moaning about Saigon’s supposedly underwhelming live music scene because Leeroy Thornhill, a former founding member of British rave-punk titans The Prodigy, is coming to town this month. Hitting Lush (2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) on Saturday, Mar. 3, expect a high-energy DJ set of nu-skool breaks, hip-hop, jungle and the odd pop mash-up. Turn to Live In Saigon for a full preview of this event.

March 2012 The Word | 9

Just In

the talk

VILLA ANUPA NOW IN AN PHU

EXPERIENCE THE JUNGLE In an effort to stop the deforestation of Dong Nai Province, Viet Adventure and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), in association with Ta Lai’s People Committee, have created a traditional bamboo Longhouse in Ta Lai village, surrounded by Cat Tien National Park. Officially inaugurated on Feb. 15, the traditionally designed eco-lodge has been built entirely out of local materials. Located in the heart of Cat Tien Reserve, it offers a big space (that can be separated in four rooms) including a patio and community garden, for up to 25 visitors. The newly opened lodge is already helping 10 families in Ta Lai village to live more comfortably and sustainably. For more information, contact info@vietadventure.vn

Stock from luxury leather bags and accessories at the boutique Villa Anupa (17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) is now available to purchase at ER Couture (43 Thao Dien, Q2) in An Phu. The downtown boutique also has a number of new arrivals including a range of red and pink (cerise & pastel) Loani bangles and Keith Shannon perfume. The New Urban bangles contain 400 original Swarovski large crystals and are priced at VND3,750,000. The Jungle bangle, priced at VND2,800,000, holds 300 smaller Swarovski crystals to complement the smaller width of the bangle. Keith Shannon’s Reckless Abandon fragrance for men, which was re-launched in a new bottle last year, is priced at VND2,160,000.

UNITY ARRIVES

A MONSOON ARRIVES IN TOWN Specialising in pan-Southeast Asian fare from Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand and Myanmar, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon has officially opened its doors. Expect dishes such as Thai steamed sea bass with fresh lime sauce, Burmese butterfish curry and a Vietnamese mixed appetiser platter, as well as tasty fresh juices and smoothies, at reasonable prices. The Saigon branch is the second Monsoon Restaurant & Bar (1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1) to open in the region, following the success of the first Monsoon in Yangon, Myanmar in 2004.

10 | The Word March 2012

Unity, a new lifestyle and home accessories store, has opened in a converted space at 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1, opposite Nguyen Du’s Galaxy cinema. The store provides a collection of modern and functional accessories made simply yet stylishly, including orbital lamps, eggshellwhite china and wire-clasped water bottles made from alternative materials such as silicone, rubber and brushed aluminium. For more information, call 3823 9375 or email info@unitycompany.com

March 2012 The Word | 11

the talk

the talk A TASTE OF ALGERIA

PARC CATERING GOES SOLO Originally part of Au Parc, Parc Catering has struck out on its own with new staff. Able to cater for any occasion, from cocktail, birthday and private parties to corporate regional conferences, high-end fashion outlet openings, film shoots and large events, Parc Catering take care of everything and can provide all equipment, crockery and transport. Known for its Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes (kebabs fresh off the spit, homemade flat bread etc.), dips, salads and canapés, as well as Japanese and Vietnamese delicacies, Parc Catering’s staff can answer all queries in Vietnamese, English and French. In addition, Parc Catering is now also providing healthy, balanced school lunches (and snacks to young athletes) in ecofriendly reusable boxes to over 50 students and an increasing number of health conscious teachers on four campuses in Saigon. Order forms are simple XL sheets on which a selection for each day is made at the end of the month for the next one. Parc Catering’s delivery drivers collect payment at parents’ offices or homes. For more information, call David on 01203 968430 (English/French) or Tram on 0983 975069 (Vietnamese/English). Alternatively, call the Parc Catering office on 3822 1565. www.parccatering.com

B Bahdja, the city’s first Algerian restaurant, h has opened in the heart of downtown S Saigon at 91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1. Serving from 6pm, Monday to Saturday, aand specialising in traditional Algerian fare aand North African favourites, the weeklyeexpanding menu includes such delicacies as ttuna bourek (VND110,000) beef and mtewem ttajine (VND235,000/VND260,000) and a range of couscous dishes, including the famed couscous royale, from VND200,000 to VND345,000. Drinks include two speciality Moroccan wines by the bottle (VND700,000 toVND750,000), as well as those from France, Italy, Spain and South Africa. Bottled and draft beers such as Tiger, Heineken and Sapporo range from VND40,000 to VND65,000.

Join us in celebrating the International Women's Day in our restaurant, and enjoy the festive ambiance through the culinary delights of our great Chefs. The 4-course menu begins with "Pan-seared Black Pepper Tuna Salad" followed by "Seafood Chowder Soup". A delicate main course made with “Australian Beef” or "Australian rack of Lambs" comes next. Dinner concludes with a “Fresh mango and Creme Brulee” that is sure to delight women’s palates. A special gift will be given to ladies.

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL, 117 Le Thanh Ton T St, Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam TTel: (84-8) 3829 5368 Ext. 6614 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 Email: corso@norfol f khotel.com.vn Website: www.norfol f khotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk f Group

MEXICO MEETS VIETNAM The city’s first Mexican-Vietnamese fusion restobar has opened in District 3. Open daily from 11am to 11pm, Khoi Thom inventively melds Vietnamese fare such as avocado shakes into guacamole dip and Mexican staples such as chilli con carne into Vietnamese sweet bean soup. The Central American flavour carries over to the bar with tequila shots on offer and live Cuban music playing against a brightly coloured Legoretta-style backdrop. Khoi Thom, 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3. Tel: 3930 0233

the place to be ON ST. PATRICK’S DAY satu mar rday ch 17

LOOKING OUT FOR THE BLIND The dedication ceremony of the Landon Carter Schmitt Residence for Blind and Visually Impaired Children will take place at 10am on Mar. 22 at Kid’s First Village, Dong Ha City, Quang Tri Province. Established in memory of Landon Carter Schmitt — a philanthropist who cared deeply for the children of Vietnam before passing away in 2009 — the Landon Carter Schmitt Residence for Blind and Visually Impaired Children will create a centre to treat, educate, and train blind and visually impaired children and youth in central Vietnam. The residence was built in cooperation with the Landon Carter Schmitt Memorial Fund, the Global Community Service Foundation, the Quang Tri Province People's Committee, the Quang Tri Department of Education and Training, the Quang Tri Department of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs, the Quang Tri Department of Foreign Affairs, the Dong Ha Handicapped School for Children, and the Quang Tri Blind Association. For more info, contact Nguyen Xuan Tam or Max H. Talcott on 0533 555 317

12 | The Word March 2012

LIVE IRISH MUSIC WITH JURAM CANNED GUINNESS AT 100K IRISH FOOD WITH BUFFET FREE ENTRY 19 THAI VAN LUNG, DISTRICT 1 TEL: 3822 1720 www.berniesbar.com.vn email: berniesbar@hotmail.com

March 2012 The Word | 13

In the Papers

the talk

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

VIETNAM TO HOST OLYMPIC QUALIFYING ROUND

VIETNAM’S AIR POLLUTION A CONCERN Vietnam is among the top 10 countries with the worst air pollution, according to a study released during this year’s World Economic Forum in Davos. Vietnam's air (effects on human health) ranking was 123rd among the 132 countries surveyed. Vietnam's water supply (effects on human health) was ranked 80th of the 132 surveyed. In terms of overall environment, the study ranked Vietnam 79th. The Environmental Performance Index is conducted by the environmental research centres of Yale and Columbia universities with assistance from dozens of independent scientists. The study uses satellite data to measure the concentration levels of air pollution. The categories are environmental burden of disease, water (effects on human health), air pollution (effects on human health and ecosystems), water resources (ecosystem effects), biodiversity and habitat, forestry, fisheries, agriculture and climate change.

Vietnam has been chosen to host the playoff round of the Asian Football Confederation (AFC) Asian Qualifiers for the 2012 London Games from Mar. 25 to Mar. 31. Malaysia was previously chosen but facilities there did not meet the requirements, so the AFC decided to move the venue to Hanoi. Currently it is not clear which teams will go to Vietnam for their playoff matches. However, the second-placed teams in the three groups in Asia will play round robin-style playoff matches in Vietnam and the best team will play Senegal in the English city of Coventry on Apr. 12.

WATER IN SAIGON’S PETRO W Quality inspectors have found a high content of water Q iin two gasoline samples in Ho Chi Minh City, as part of ttheir efforts to explain the mysterious vehicle fires that have been occurring nationwide since last year. h The samples came from two gas stations that rreportedly received gasoline mixed with additives aaccording to an investigation by Thanh Nien newspaper n last month. One of them is located at 469 Bach Dang in Binh Thanh, T belonging to the country’s top fuel retailer Petrolimex, P and the other is at 982 Truong Son, Thu Duc. D The water content was measured at 172 mg per kilogram k of fuel at the Bach Dang station and 151 mg at a the other, according to test results released Thursday by b the Quality Assurance and Testing Center at the Ministry M of Science and Technology. Tests found the amount of acetone and methanol in i the samples met Vietnam’s quality standards. Methanol M as an additive has been alleged to increase gasoline’s g combustibility and has been suspected of causing c many vehicle fires.

PAYLESS TO OPEN STORES IN VIETNAM

PRECIOUS DOLPHINS SPOTTED BABY BOOM IN THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON Nearly 13,500 babies were born across Vietnam during the first six days of the Year of the Dragon. In Ho Chi Minh City alone, there were a thousand new babies just in the first three days of the year, with parents believing that their babies will be blessed under the prosperous sign of the dragon. During the first hour after midnight struck on New Year’s Eve, five babies were born at Tu Du hospital in Ho Chi Minh City. This year is called Nham Thin, a combination of the zodiac animal of dragon (Thin) and the stem (Nham) which is believed to be a very good one for boys.

14 | The Word March 2012

A group of the precious dolphin species Irrawaddy has been spotted in the Kien Giang biosphere reserve in southern Vietnam. The group of around 20 dolphins was found around the Ba Lua islands, completely separated from other Irrawaddy groups in Thailand’s coastal lake Songkhla and in the Mekong River upstream, reports news website VietNamNet. Experts at the Vietnam Institute of Tropical Biology said the latest group is big compared to previous ones, with between seven to 10 dolphins. Irrawaddy dolphins, known scientifically as orcaella brevirotis, are ranked by the International Union for Conservation of Nature as a vulnerable species. There’s little information in Vietnam about the status or distribution of the dolphin.

Collective Brands Inc will open its first Payless shoe stores in Vietnam, Thailand and Korea this year. The company plans to open 16 stores through franchise agreements in the three countries this year, LuAnn Via, who heads the Payless division, said last month. Payless, with about 4,500 stores in 34 countries, opened its first franchised unit in 2009 in Kuwait. It now has 140 franchised locations and expects to increase the number to about 700 by 2014. The Kansas-based Collective Brands also owns the Saucony, Stride Rite, Keds and Sperry Top-Sider.

March 2012 The Word | 15

The Buzz

ST PADDY’S DAY IN SAIGON Though Vietnam may be over 6,000 miles away from Ireland, the spirit of the Emerald Isle will be felt with aplomb at several of Saigon’s venues this St Patrick’s Day (Saturday, Mar. 17). Sheridan’s Irish Pub (17/13-14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) will be pouring the Guinness and hosting live music as well offering its normal range of bottled and draught beers and home cooked comfort food. O’Brien’s Factory (74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1) will be open from 12pm, offering more of the black stuff, its usual food menu and live music from 8.30pm courtesy of the Keith Nolan Band. Bernie’s Bar & Grill (19 Thai Van Lung, Q1) will be celebrating with a host of Irish festivities, as well as selling bottled Guinness at VND100,000 and food vouchers for VND350,000 that include authentic Irish fare. Live entertainment comes from Juram. Finally, the New World Hotel (76 Le Lai, Q1) is inviting guests to indulge in their Celtic-themed brunch and dinner buffets, which come served with free flow green beer, soft drinks, Irish coffee and tea. Dinner is available on Mar. 16 and Mar. 17 from 6pm to 10pm for VND890,000, while Sunday brunch runs from 12pm to 3pm on Mar. 18 for VND890,000. Also, the hotel’s Lounge and Splash Pool bars are offering a ‘buy-fiveget-one-free’ beer bucket special on Irish beer from Mar. 16 to Mar. 18.

REGATTA SERIES TAKES SAIL

MANGO BAY CUP 2012 Mango Bay Phu Quoc is preparing for its fifth annual football tournament for the country's expat community, held on May 5. This year, eight expat teams, divided into two groups, will compete for the title at the island's An Thu 3 stadium. The registration fee is VND6,300,000 per team of 10, including one goalkeeper, six starting players and three substitutes. The fee includes complimentary water, and players get a reduced rate of VND210,000 per person for a special surf and turf BBQ. Players' accompanying guests can also join the BBQ for VND420,000 each. For a detailed schedule, email Ronan at gm@ mangobayphuquoc.com

A misspelling of London’s famous Big Ben clock captured the hearts of judges and saw eight-year-old Nguyen Song Anh win first prize in an international art competition. Anh, who attends Luong The Vinh School in Ho Chi Minh City, entered his drawing into British Council’s Young Learner’s Art competition and drew a sketch of the Palace of Westminster best known as Big Ben. However, his young ears must have misheard his teachers as he mistakenly labelled it “Big Bang Clock”. Though instead of his error counting against him, judges including British Council director of teaching Anna Searle and Paralympics competitor Susannah Rodgers, awarded him first prize with his work set to be displayed around the world. Now Anh’s drawing has been printed by British Council offices around the globe and is the front page of their new calendar, which is already sitting on thousands of desks in over 100 countries.

THE PIN UP T

CHARITY BAZAAR

BRITISH PENSION SEMINAR

MORE BANG FOR YOUR BEN

16 | The Word March 2012

WIRED

The first competition of the High Tide Sailing Regatta Series will be held in Vung Tau on Mar. 17 and Mar. 18. Two weeks prior to the race several promotional days for sailing, demonstrations and team building will be held. Registration, which began last month, coincided with at the launch of High Tide Sailing’s new website and blog. A new class of sailboat, the HTR460, at 4.6m long with hiking laders and double trapeze, will also be launched. The Regatta Series contains five events held over 12 months, including the aforementioned preparatory race in Vung Tau, the season opening in Nha Trang on Jun. 2 and Jun. 3, as well as events in Saigon and Mui Ne in September and December, with the finals held in Vung Tau in March 2013. For more info, visit www.hightidesailing.vn and www.hightidesailing.blogspot.com

Join Total Wealth Management’s Paul McLardie and Yusseff Murphy from Sovereign Trust Hong Kong at The Boomerang Bistro Saigon (The Crescent, Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7) on Mar. 5 from 6.30pm to 8pm as they discuss how two specific British government schemes (QROPS and QNUPS) should be structured and what the benefits are for both longterm expatriates and those looking to return to the UK. For further information and to register, email karin.eisenbach@t-wm.com or call 3820 0623

The latest charity bazaar ar at The Deck (38 Nguyen U Di, i, Thao Dien, Q2) will take place on Mar. 17 from 9am to 3pm. Up to 45 vendors, including a mix of small enterprises and non-profit organisations such as Vietnam Quilts, Mekong Creations, Grace Cookies and Operation Smile, will showcase locally and regionally produced goods as well as products not normally available in Vietnam. Five percent of the turnover made by each vendor (excluding the non-profits) is donated to Heart Beat Vietnam, a programme of the VinaCapital Foundation that funds life-saving heart surgery disadvantaged children in Vietnam, and the Indochina Memorial Foundation, a charity organising journalism training courses to support journalists in Vietnam. For more information, call 3744 6632

PILLOW FIGHT! Remember to mark Apr. 7 down on your calendar because this year International Pillow Fight Day comes to Saigon. Since its inception in 2008, the event has amassed a cult following across 40 cities around the world, including Hong Kong and Shanghai. Now Saigon can be added to the list. Part of a wider, decentralised urban playground movement network that aims to become a significant part of popular culture and replace passive, non-social consumption experiences, International Pillow Fight Day is a free event for all ages. Just remember to bring your pillow. Apparently feathered ones do the most damage! Further details can be found at www.wakeupsaigon.com, on Facebook and at www.pilowfightday.com

A you seriously Are la lacking creativity? Are you in need of inspiration? Or are you already full of ideas and just need to get better at organising them? Well fear no more — help comes in the form of the new World Wide Web craze Pinterest (www. pinterest.com) — an online pin-board for organising and sharing ideas. Gone are the days of shuffling through pictures, sorting clippings and deciphering scribbles. This online pin board of ideas allows you to spread all of your pearls of wisdom across your screen instead of all over your floor. Tack up daily musings by (virtually) pinning items on to a (virtual) inspiration board. Plan your wedding, talk about sports, redecorate your home or learn about new technologies through endless pages of mind-boggling content. Through Pinterest you can also connect with friends through Facebook and Twitter, to easily follow them as they post and pin things they love.

Word of Mouth

the talk

HEAL THE WORLD

WOMEN’S DAY MENU AT KOH THAI

FREE SALSA CLASSES ETHOPHEN NECKLACE PROMO From now until the end of April, Thai fashion boutique Ethophen (89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1) is offering customers a free necklace worth over VND1 million when they spend at least VND15 million in the store.

Italian grill house and BBQ restaurant La Braceria (11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) is now offering a free salsa school. ItalianArgentinian instructor Omar Del Vueno, who is officially recognised by the Italian Federation of Caribbean Dance, will take punters of all abilities through their paces every Tuesday and Thursday from 6pm to 7.30pm. For more information, call 3824 7446

Koh Thai is offering a special set menu on Mar. 8 in honour of International Women’s Day. The dinner, priced at VND595,000 per person, includes seven courses, with meals such as Thai crab cake, Galangal curry with king prawn and crisp roasted duck with asparagus and cashew nuts in Thai chilli sauce, as well as various ladythemed cocktails. Also, Koh Thai offers ‘two-for-one’ on beers, selected wines and cocktails from Monday to Thursday between 5pm and 7pm. Koh Thai Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge is located at First Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1

ENDANGERED TURTLES SET FREE

HUMAN OPERA: MEIRO KOIZUMI

Eco-resort Mango Bay Phu Quoc recently released seven marine turtles to the sea as part of its ongoing involvement in nature conservation activities. The seven marine turtles released to the sea this January were done through Mango Bay Resort and Wildlife At Risk (WAR). All seven giant sea turtles were originally confiscated from illegal transporters by the Market Control Department, who transferred them to the Department of Marine Life Quality Control and Protection before they finally reached Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Centre, part of WAR. Vietnam has five out of seven species of marine turtles in its, all of which are listed as either endangered or critically endangered by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature.

San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) is currently hosting an exhibition by Japanese artist Meiro Koizumi. Available to view until Mar. 23, Human Opera: Meiro Koizumi consists of two video works titled Human Opera XXX (2005) and My Voice Would Reach You (2009). In My Voice Would Reach You, the artist poignantly recalls the memory of his mother, desiring to speak with her, to bring her back from the dead and into his urban everyday life. Human Opera XXX was undertaken during Merio Koizumi’s residency at the Rijksakadedemie in The Netherlands. In this work, he invites a member of the public to share a personal sad story. Human Opera: Meiro Koizumi is supported by The Japan Foundation and Hanoi and Tokyo Wonder Site. For more information, visit www. san-art.org

18 | The Word March 2012

ACG TO OFFER IB DIPLOMA PROGRAMME ACG International School Vietnam has announced it will offer the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme (IBDP) to students in Years 12 and 13 from the beginning of the 2012-2013 academic year. The IB Diploma Programme is taught over two years and has gained recognition and respect from the world's leading universities. The IBDP’s curriculum comprises six subjects ensuring comprehensive skills in language, literature, social studies, the experimental sciences, mathematics and the arts. ACG International School Vietnam will be the first international school within the Academic Colleges Group (ACG) to offer students the choice of two pre-university programmes: the University of Cambridge AS/A Levels and the IBDP. For further information, email myco.tran@ acgedu.com

Over 300 students, teachers and community leaders from schools across Saigon gathered to share ideas and work together to explore problems the world faces, as part of the International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) Global Issues Network’s 1st Annual Conference. With the theme of the conference dubbed “Using our differences to make a difference”, the student-led interactive workshops addressed global issues including: biodiversity losses, peacekeeping and conflict resolution, poverty and access to education and health care. KOTO Saigon’s General Manager, David Loader, also demonstrated how his organisation is utilising this concept to help disadvantaged youth by empowering them with hospitality skills. For more information, visit www.ishcmc.com

SHOES FOR YOU Based in the tailoring capital of Vietnam, Friendly Shop (18 Tran Phu, Hoi An) specialises in producing tailor-made shoes of all styles for men, women and children in only 12 hours. As well as offering free in-store internet access to those looking for specific designs and styles, customers can also email the store with a photo of the particular shoe they’d like to have made, with the finished footwear then shipped anywhere within Vietnam. For readers of Word, mention us when ordering and you will receive free shipping on your purchase. For more info, visit www.friendlyshophoian. com or call 0935 211382

March 2012 The Word | 19

the talk

THE RESULTS ARE IN Global information and measurement company Neilson has released the results of its latest Global Survey of Consumer Confidence and Spending Intentions, which tracks consumer confidence, major concerns and spending intentions among more than 28,000 internet consumers in 56 countries. In regards to Vietnam, Neilson states that consumer confidence stands at 99 points for the fourth quarter of 2011. More than half (58 percent) of Vietnamese consumers believe their job prospects to be excellent or good in 2012, up 1 percent from the third quarter of 2011. However, Vietnam still display signs of uncertainty as 71 percent of respondents indicate that it is not a good time to buy the things they want and need over the next 12 months. 66 percent of online respondents in Vietnam indicated they believe the country is in a recession, down three points from the previous quarter. However, uncertainty remains as 84 percent of online consumers indicated they had changed their spending to save on household expenses, down two percent from last quarter.

WEEKEND YOGA WORKSHOP Join yoga instructor Michelle Lloyd and special guests Ricardo Martin and Joy Kunkanit Phrombut on Mar. 10 and Mar. 11 for an exploration into foundations and techniques of the yoga asana practice, from sun salutations to arm balances and more. All levels are welcome to attend the four-session workshop or selected parts of the programme, which will take place at various locations in An Phu. For more information, contact Michelle Lloyd at michelle@michellelloyd.com

VIETJETAIR TO INCREASE FLIGHT DESTINATIONS In operation since December last year, Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s budget airline VietJetAir will be launching new services between Ho Chi Minh City and Danang on Apr. 27 and between Hanoi and Nha Trang on May 19. The former route will include two return flights a day and the latter will have one daily return flight. Bookings for these services will be available from Mar. 5 and will come hand-in-hand with a huge price promotion to celebrate the launch. In addition, from late April the carrier will increase the frequency of their service between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi from three return flights a day to eight. To book or to get more information go to www.vietjetair.com or contact the carrierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s call centre on 1900 1886

DIABOLO SPRING DISCOUNT Furniture and homeware outlet Diabolo (13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1) is offering a 20 to 50 percent discount on its entire range from Mar. 1 to Mar. 10. Also, during this period, for every purchase totalling VND10 million, shoppers will receive an additional 20 percent discount available from Apr. 1 to Jun. 1. Products include contemporary and colourful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives and vases. Diabolo is open daily from 9am to 8pm. For further information, call 3825 1803

20 | The Word March 2012

March 2012 The Word | 21

MARCH CALENDAR TUE

MON

WED

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Mar. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

THU 01

St. David’s Day Dinner. 7pm at Caravelle Hotel. Email officemanager@bbgv.org for info

Boney M & ABBA Legend Night. 9pm at Seventeen Saloon AusCham HCMC Sundowners. 6pm to 9pm at Purple Jade. Email events1@ auschamvn.org for info

Drops of Spring. The final day from Feb. 4 at Tu Do Gallery

UK citizen? British pension built up? 6.30pm to 8pm at Boomarang Bistro. Email karrin. eisenbach@t-wm. com for info

In The Biz Mondays. 9pm at Lush

2 course set lunch for VND160,000+. 11am from Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath Tapas Fiesta & Wine through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

Happy Hour - Half Price Drinks. 5.30pm to 8.30pm from Mon. to Fri. at Xu Free Beer Mondays. 6pm to 7.30pm every Mon. at BoatHouse

Prime rib & free dessert combo. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hog’s Breath

VND42,000 Bacardi and Coke, VND160,000 jugs of Mojito. 5pm every Mon. at Le Pub Salsa classes at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with “Carmen & Brothers” at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana

22 | The Word March 2012

Buy one pizza get one free. 5pm to 9pm every Tue. at Hog’s Breath Dress For Success Workshop for Men. 8.30am to 12pm at Sherwood Residence. Visit www. bbgv.org for info

Blind Test. 9pm every Tue. at Ala Mezon

EuroCham Annual General Meeting 2012. Visit www. eurochamvn.org for info

Matt Willis. 8pm every Wed. at Sugar Bowl Jazz

Ladies Night. 8pm every Tue. at The Amber Room Special Tuesday with Dj Jordan Howard. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash VND21,000 Vodka drinks. 5pm every Tue. at Le Pub

Ladies' Day - free drink for ladies. Every Tue. at Tamago Happy Hour with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

Lavazza coffee & breakfast. 9am to 11am from Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

Live Music. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien

Salsa classes at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

Ladies Night with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic. 8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana Open Mic Nite at La Habana. For more info visit www.mic-oi.com Saigon Players Script Night. Every third Wed. of the month. Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info

Pure with Dan K. at Blanchy’s Tash

The Deutschentreff at La Habana. Every last Wed. of the month Steak & ale combo for VND200,000 +. 5pm to 9pm every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

Happy Hour. From 5pm to 9pm every day at Bacchus Corner

Happy Hour with house wine, beer and complementary appetisers. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

Happy Hour. All draught beers for VND30,000 +. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

SBA Meeting. Every last Thu. of the month at Vasco’s. Visit www. swissvietnam.com

XXL with Dj Ajam and Dj Konka. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

Prime rib & crayfish combo or VND500,000. 5pm to 9pm every Fri. at Hog’s Breath EuroCham Business Luncheon – Vietnam’s New Economic Policies – Impact on FDI Enterprises. Visit www.eurochamvn.org for online registration

Friday Fiesta. 9pm at La Habana Bash@Tash with Dj Scrambled EDGE. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

Maeve & Dave. 9.30pm every Fri. at Thi Café AusCham HCMC Breakfast Briefing – Social Media – Online Safety for Children. 8.30am at Park Hyatt. Visit auschamvn.org for info

Leeroy Thornhill. 9pm at Lush. Call 0918 630 742 for reservations

Friday drinks. 4pm every Fri. at Vino

BBGV Networking Drinks Night. Visit www.bbgv. org for details

Scott Brantley on Percussion. 8pm every Fri. at Elbow Room & every Tue. at O’Brien’s

Live music with BBQ. Every Sun. night at Ala Mezon

Jazz night with Franck Amsallem. 8pm at IDECAF. Email culturel@consulfrance-hcm. org for info

Sunday Paellas & Happy Hour. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana Lazy Weekend Brunch with Lavazza coffee and buckets of Corona. At Hog’s Breath

Weekend Yoga Workshop. From Mar. 9 to 11. Email michelle@michellelloyd.com for venue and schedule

Animal Rescue and Care – Adoption and Awareness Day. 10am to 2pm at Riverside Apartments. Visit ww.arcpets.com for info 2012 Saigon Cyclo Challenge. 8.30am at The Crescent. Visit www.saigonchildren.com for info

Charity Bazaar. 9am to 3pm at The Deck. Call 3744 6632 for info

NordCham Annual Viking Fest. Email contact@nordcham.com for info and tickets

High Tide Sailing Regatta Series. Mar. 17 & 18 in Vung Tau. Visit www. hightidesailing.vn for info

Alien Party. 8pm at Freak Bar (8/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1). Call 0907 840 084 for info Swing to Swim at Montgomerie Links. Call 0933 032 296 for more info

Human Opera by Meiro Koizumi. Untill Mar. 23 at San Art. Visit www. san-art.org for info

SUN Life Drawing Workshop. 9am every Sun. at Pandora Studio Café (2A Nguyen Van Cu)

Jungle Fever in The City. 9pm at City Garden. Call 3822 4860 for info Batteres prawns & Barramundi for VND200,000 +. 5pm to 9pm every Thu. at Hog’s Breath

SAT 03 0 3

Ladies’ Night. Every Thu. at Bootleg

15 Dinner & Jazz night with Lindsay Erdman. 8pm at Zero (15 Dong Du, Q1)

Saigon Players Club Night. Every first Wed. of the month at La Habana. Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info

Jenny Santiago’s acoustic night. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

FRI RI

Happy Hour. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha

Randy Cataluna. 8.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien & from Thu. to Sun. at Universal Leyote Taylor. 11pm from Mon. to Fri. at MZ & 10pm every Sat. at Thi Café Mr. 10, Navin, Icee & Justin Murta. 9.30pm every Sat at Xu

Happy Hour. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

Happy Hour. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck Dream Music Party with Dj Kamel and Dj Konka. 9pm at Blanchy’s Tash

Black Sauce. 9pm every Sat. at La Fenetre Soleil

3 + 1. 8pm every Sun. at Juno Corner (76 Mac Dinh Chi)

Saigon Swing Club and Relaxing Night with Carmen & Brothers. 7pm every Sun. at La Habana

SCENE

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

OVER

ALEX MILLAN AT IDECAF French DJ Alex Millan made a triumphant return to the city, serenading the Saigon faithful atop the steps of IDECAF with a set choc full of groovy dance tracks

A DOSE OF CARNIVAL Saigon was transported to the sunny beaches of Rio De Janeiro for one night only as a packed Centro Café was treated to a host of red hot Brazilian beats courtesy ofDJs Scrambled Edge and Jan Hagenkoetter

Who’d have thought Mexican-Vietnamese fusion food would be so popular? The grand opening of Khoi Thom got more than a few of the city’s intrigued gastronomes out to see for themselves

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

What do you get when you cross Vietnam with Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar? Yes, Southeast Asia, but also Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

KHOI THOM GRAND OPENING

MONSOON SAIGON GRAND OPENING

WORD TURNS FOUR

WILL AND THE PEOPLE @ VASCO’S UK upstarts Will and the People won over an unassuming Vasco’s crowd thanks to their melodic Bob Marley-meets-Pixies brand of reggae-influenced indie-pop

24 | The Word March 2012

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

PHOTOS BY HAU HUYNH

Happy birthday to… us! Dressed to impress, Word finally got out of the office to celebrate its 4th birthday around the pool of the New World Hotel

Insider

CONFESSIONS OF A CYCLO DRIVER / THE FRENCH CONNECTION

PHOTO BY PHIL BURNETT

TALKING SHOP

Tagging the Bunker An Australian who inscribed his name in the wall of the iconic Metropole hotel’s air raid shelter in Hanoi recalls the Vietnam of the past. Photos by Dominic Blewett

DOWN UNDER The staff of The Metropole take our photographer on a tour of the bunker

26 | The Word March 2012

ob Devereaux never fancied himself a tagger, but if Hanoi is an urban area, and the name and date he scratched into the wall of the hotel’s air raid shelter can be construed as graffiti, then a tagger he is. When the hotel unearthed the shelter early last fall, Devereaux’s name was an intriguing discovery, etched into one wall at the bottom of a shaft leading to corridors and rooms that protected hotel guests in the 1960s and 1970s. His inscription runs to four brief lines, with “BOB” in all caps on top, his surname just

below, day and month on the third line and “1975” at the bottom. For months, the hotel wondered who this Bob Devereaux was and why he had inscribed his name. Was this the date the hotel sealed up the shelter? After all, it was 1975. The war was over. Who needs an air raid shelter? The Internet provided few clues, but then one day, an email came in over the Metropole’s transom: “I am the person who wrote on the wall of the bunker during the time. I was occupying a room at the Metropole for a year during 1975/76.”

March 2012 The Word | 27

"My hotel room overlooked an open space between the wings of the hotel and the bunker was beneath that. The entrance to the bunker was at the bottom of a flight of steps and I had a key to the padlock on the door"

Devereaux’s friends had seen a story in the Sydney Morning Herald, a story that referenced his name, and he couldn’t resist checking in. The hotel couldn’t have been more pleased and recently took a chance to flesh out the man behind the inscription. Today, Bob Devereaux is 76 years old and living with his Vietnamese wife in Perth. He ferries kids back and forth to school as one way to stay busy, a rather pedestrian cap to a life that was anything but. Devereaux, whose family name is of French origin, was born in London in 1935 to an English father and an Irish mother. As a schoolboy in London during the Second World War, he spent a lot of time in air raid shelters. His father, meanwhile, served as a soldier in the British Army in Burma. In 1952, Devereaux’s father relocated the family to Australia. Devereaux worked and studied in Perth until 1959 when he joined the Australian Foreign Service. We’ll let him pick up the story from here... How did you become interested in Indochina? In the early 1960s, French was still widely spoken in what used to be French Indochina, this being Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. I spoke French and my first overseas posting in 1960 was to Phnom Penh. I was there until 1963 and during those years travelled a lot in Cambodia and Vietnam. When did you first move to Vietnam for work? That was 1967, after having spent 1964 to 1967 in Brussels. My work included consular and administrative duties such as the protection and welfare of Australian citizens and issuing visas for Australia. I was also a representative of the Government of Cambodia in the protection of Cambodian citizens and property, and issuing visas for Cambodia. How did you get from Saigon in the Sixties to Hanoi in 1975? Well, after my stint in Saigon, I ended up back in Phnom Penh from 1971 to 1973, and then once again back to Saigon from 1973 to 1975, primarily as Australian Consul. At that time, we had two Australian embassies in Vietnam, one in Saigon and one in Hanoi. I left Saigon on the last Australian RAAF plane out on 25 April 1975 shortly before the city changed hands. Only the Ambassador and five Australia-based personnel (including me) were left in the Saigon Embassy by then.

28 | The Word March 2012

PAST AND PRESENT (left, above & top right) entrance to the bunker, The Metropole Hotel circa 1920 & Bob's old passport photo

My experiences during the weeks before this final departure — particularly during the uplift of Vietnamese orphans to Australia and the evacuation of Australian citizens — were distressing, to say the least. About six weeks after leaving Saigon on the RAAF flight, I was posted to Hanoi and so returned to Vietnam via Bangkok, Canberra and Vientiane. The Australian Embassy was located in the Metropole in those days, and you lived there, too. Do you remember your room? The Embassy occupied several rooms on the second floor and we lived and worked in our rooms. I had a corner room with windows on two sides of the room. Apart from the Ambassador we used the communal toilets, which were often out of order. The only person who had a private toilet was the Ambassador. We regarded

him with envy. The Metropole in 1975 was an old hotel but with a lot of charm, very much just as the French left it. There were all sorts of people living there. My neighbour across the corridor was a reporter for an Italian communist newspaper. He had a pregnant partner but she had to live in a different room. It would have been frowned upon for an unmarried foreign couple to openly live together. What was Embassy life like? If you couldn't adapt to a very restrictive lifestyle you didn't last long. It was frowned upon for us to liaise with local people other than in approved scenarios. So we really didn’t mix much with the locals or have many Embassy receptions. If we did have a small reception, for instance on Australia Day, we would all stop work beforehand

and make sandwiches for the guests. We’d serve Australian wine if we had any. We received movies from time to time from Canberra and I was usually the movie operator. I also held the Embassy medical supplies and dispensed pills when needed — worm pills were popular with some staff! While still occupying the hotel rooms we were allocated an old French villa by the authorities for us to develop into a more substantial Embassy. Part of my job then was to coordinate the renovation of the villa into a combined Chancery and Ambassador’s residence and to work on the plans for staff quarters at the rear of the villa What took you down into the bunker in 1975? It had been several years since the threat of any bombings. My hotel room overlooked an open space

between the wings of the hotel and the bunker was beneath that. The entrance to the bunker was at the bottom of a flight of steps and I had a key to the padlock on the door. I used to store stuff down there which was too bulky for our rooms. So I only went there when I needed some supplies Do you remember inscribing your name in the wall? Was it around the time the bunker was sealed up? No, I don’t remember that. I may have been at a loose end finding that the bunker was flooded again — possibly with no electric light either — so may have scratched my name on the wall in between fishing under the water for an elusive bottle of Australian wine. I don’t remember the bunker being sealed up. I left Hanoi in 1976, and as far as I can recall the bunker was still open when I left.

When did you return to Hanoi for the first time after that first posting? I went back again on posting from 1983 to 1984. By then, things had changed quite a bit. We were no longer living and working in the Metropole and had moved to the villa and staff quarters. Life was comparatively gracious. When did you last visit Vietnam? I was last there in 2009. I didn’t go to Hanoi that time. But on an earlier visit I travelled by bus from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. In Hanoi I noticed that the exterior structure of the Metropole was basically the same but had been repaired and spruced up with a fresh coat of paint. The interior was luxurious and seemed quite strange compared to how it was in 1975. I had a cup of coffee in the hotel lobby for old time’s sake.

March 2012 The Word | 29

TEN 10

Confessions of a Cyclo Driver In the land of motorbikes where speed and convenience rule, the cyclo driver is getting left behind. This month Stephanie Cantrell catches up with the men behind the wheel to hear stories about this dying profession. Photos by EJ Chung Nghia

Years on the job: 22

My job has changed a lot over the years. Twenty years ago, only Vietnamese people used to ride cyclos, but then the tourists started arriving and now they are my main customers. Being a cyclo driver is difficult. I often only have two customers a day and it’s hard to make enough money. Cyclo drivers aren’t respected that much, but I’m happy when I can make my customers happy and know that they are having a good day.

Nam

A good day is when my customers and myself can agree on a price that makes us both happy. I want tourists to have a good time in Vietnam so I like to give them advice about the city and the country. There isn’t much opportunity for cyclo drivers in the city, but my job is very important and I care a lot about the people I meet every day.

Tho Binh Years on the job: 24 When I came back from the conflict in Cambodia I couldn’t find work. So, a friend suggested I try riding a cyclo. It’s not a good job and there are days when I can’t earn enough to put food on the table. But I’m lucky. My wife knows how to scrimp and save. We just about get by.

30 | The Word March 2012

Years on the job: 15

Dat

Years on the job: 18

Before the Liberation of Saigon I worked as a chauffeur for the Bishop. I was young and got the job through my family. Now all I do chauffeuring for are mattresses, wardrobes and desks. I transport them from shops back to people’s homes.

Son

Years on the job: 32

When I was young I trained to be a lawyer. But after the war it was impossible to find work. So, I tried many things. I don’t enjoy being a cyclo driver. It’s hard work, especially in the midday sun. But I do meet some good people. I’ve got one customer, a man from Switzerland, who comes back to Vietnam every year and always uses me as his driver.

Years on the job: 37

This isn’t an easy job but when the customers are happy with the service they often give me extra money, which is good! I don’t like it when tourists bargain too much. I don’t think many people realise how hard this job is and I need all the money I can get. It’s a very poor job. It’s difficult because I can only work in the tourist area because three-wheeled vehicles aren’t allowed on lots of the roads.

Tung Years on the job: 20

Den

Years on the job: 20

I used to work at the port but there wasn’t enough money so I became a cyclo driver instead. It’s difficult, because without any training or education, there aren’t a lot of jobs I can do. It’s hard when customers offer too little money but I still take them because I need all the money I can get.

This job is all about trying to earn enough money. My happiest days are when I take home lots of money. One day, I managed to earn nearly VND1 million, which was very good! Some of my customers like me a lot and keep coming back to see me. I even take some of them to visit the Mekong Delta — but we ride motorbikes there, not cyclos!

Hung Years on the job: about 20

Bay Years on the job: 25

I usually take tourists from the backpacking area to places like the War Museum, the Palace and Notre Dame Cathedral. People also like to go to Chinatown and visit all the temples there. I’m happy to have this job because life is very hard. I have a wife to support and rent to pay for our house. If the customers are happy, they tell their friends about me and then I can get more work.

I’m old now so I can’t get another job, but it isn’t easy being a cyclo driver. Yesterday I had no customers, which was very bad. I like my job because I can talk with my customers and find out about their countries. I always warn them to look after their valuables. I see too many tourists having their cameras and jewellery stolen so I tell them to be careful. I hope this helps them to have a safer time in Vietnam.

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CHARITY CORNER

Stop the Traffic Human trafficking is the equivalent of modern day slavery. Stephanie Cantrell speaks to NGOs in Vietnam who are helping to kerb the exploitation. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

uch of the developed world is aware of human trafficking from gruelling news reports or gritty films and documentaries. However, many people in Asia are completely unaware of the dangers of trafficking and thus are immediately more at risk of becoming victims. In 2010, the US Trafficking-in-Person Report declared that the chance of becoming a trafficking victim in the modern world was approximately 1.8 per thousand people. This number is doubled when referring to the Asia Pacific region. It’s estimated that by 2009, more than 22,000 Vietnamese people had been reported missing and perhaps trafficked within or outside of Vietnam. Forced labour, prostitution and forced marriage are just some of the injustices that trafficked victims can be subjected to. It’s a huge international issue that becomes more pertinent every year, but there are number of organisations that work to prevent trafficking and rehabilitate those who survive it. Humantrafficking.org describes Vietnam as a source and destination country for trafficking. Men, women and children are at risk of being trafficked to neighbouring countries such as Cambodia and China, as well as overseas to the United Kingdom, Taiwan and the Czech Republic. Trafficking between Cambodia and Vietnam is largely connected to the sex trade. Women and girls are taken over the border and forced to work in brothels. Indeed, UNICEF predicts that approximately one-third of brothel workers in Cambodia are under the age of eighteen, and the majority of them are Vietnamese. Recruitment for trafficking victims comes in many forms. Fraudulent or forced marriages, promises of employment and illegal migrant worker schemes form the basis. From this angle, it becomes easier to understand why Vietnam and much of Southeast Asia has such a high level of human trafficking: the desperate conditions

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that many people in this part of the world exist in makes them vulnerable to schemes that promise the chance of a better life.

Education for Prevention A lack of education about the risks is also directly linked to the high incidences of trafficking in Vietnam. As a result, a number of agencies and organisations in this country strive to increase awareness of this issue, particularly in areas where people are at high risk. Higher risk individuals are often found to come from poor families where women are the main breadwinners or the head of the household. Those with family members who are ill or disabled are also considered to be more at risk. In 2005, the Pacific Links Foundation introduced a programme that focuses on human trafficking. ADAPT is a forefront programme that leads the way in tackling human trafficking on Vietnam’s frontiers. There is a strong emphasis on education as well as reintegration services and economic opportunities for previous victims. Each trafficking survivor is assessed on individual terms and the specific support he or she requires is provided on a case-by-case basis. ADAPT focuses on young girls who are at risk of dropping out of school by providing scholarships. It also focuses on labour trafficking, educating urban factory workers and rural workers seeking employment about the risks of falling into these schemes. The Pacific Links Foundation also introduced the GATE programme in 2008. Grassroots Anti-Trafficking Effort Groups works with communities in An Giang, Kien Giang and Can Tho. Primarily introduced to raise awareness in these high-risk communities, GATE offers counselling, advice on safe migration and work opportunities and job placements. By educating people about different employment opportunities abroad and legitimate agencies, it is hoped that people will be less vulnerable

to human trafficking. To date, GATE boasts more than 700 awareness campaigns and almost 5,000 community members reached before they become victims of trafficking. The effectiveness of the programme is largely because the women who organise the project are members of the communities in which they work. This means that they are aware of people in the community who may be at risk from trafficking and can hopefully reach them before they fall victim.

A Rose Garden In Ho Chi Minh City, there are a number of organisations that work with vulnerable people, some of whom are survivors of trafficking. The Little Rose Shelter was established in 1992. The shelter houses vulnerable young girls, assisting them in their rehabilitation and ongoing education and training. The organisation also offers post-shelter support for young women, with social workers guiding and advising them as they attempt to successfully reintegrate with society. Job placements, vocational training and counselling provide previously trafficked girls with the skills needed to cope independently. Bethany, a British national who volunteers and raises fund for the shelter, is in awe of the work that staff members at the shelter do on a daily basis. “The transformation each girl undergoes in her first few weeks at the Little Rose Shelter is a wonder to observe,” she says. “I have so much admiration for the staff there.” Though the fight against human trafficking is far from being won, the organisations that target anti-trafficking operate tirelessly to educate and empower people before they become victims, and helping to support and rehabilitate the survivors of the trafficking trade. For more info about the organisations mentioned in this piece, visit www.pacificlinks.org and www.littleroseshelter.wordpress.com

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COVER STORY

THE FRENCH CONNECTION

PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

We traversed the city in search of personal anecdotes from the city’s older generation. They were asked about their memories of the old Saigon, before it transformed itself into the city it is today. One 70-year-old Vietnamese gentleman told us about his travails as a schoolboy when he was learning French. “English and French language courses were a must then,” he recalled. “You could either choose English or French, some chose both. When I had my school oral exam the French professor asked me if I was good at English, and vice versa. I wasn’t good at either. I remember one of the questions in French was, ‘What is the name of the bridge in Hanoi that was built in 1903?’ I couldn’t remember and got angry with myself, so I swore softly. Suddenly, the French professor shouted, ‘Correct!’ And I passed. The question was actually about Long Bien Bridge. It was formerly named after the French Governor-General Paul Doumer whose name sounds similar to the swear word I had used.” Whether the etymology of that word evolved from Paul Doumer’s surname is unproven. However, the point of the story is that French and Vietnamese culture are intrinsically connected. But just how deep is this connection? To put it in perspective, according to statistics from the French Consul General’s office, the French community is officially the largest western expat population in Ho Chi Minh City — 4,000 French nationals reside here with a total of 7,000 in Vietnam. The real figure is probably much higher. In addition, there are approximately 81,000 students currently learning French, either as a first or a second foreign language in school or university. It would be fair to say that the ties between the two are pretty strong. So, for this month only, we become Francophiles and explore the ways the French have influenced our lives in Vietnam. — Christine Van

A MATTER OF

RELATIONS The French Consul General speaks to John Thornton about the role he plays in bridging the relationship between Vietnam and France

“I’M VERY HAPPY TO BE IN VIETNAM. Sometimes one’s wishes aren’t the same as the posting you receive from the HR department,” smiles Fabrice Mauries, the current French Consul General in Ho Chi Minh City. Taking up his post in April 2011, Fabrice brings a wealth of international experience to the position, having worked at the United Nations in New York and at the French Embassy in China, before personally requesting his latest role. He is charged with not only maintaining relations between France and Vietnam in his constituency, but also with ensuring that France remains a relevant and vital voice in the areas of business, commerce and culture in southern Vietnam. What do you hope to achieve during your tenure as the consul general? There are many functions the Consulate General has to oversee as part of its policy. However, the main issue is to take care of the French community in Ho Chi Minh City, whether they’re of French or Vietnamese origin, an important part of the French community here is originally Vietnamese. Overall, the functions of the French Consulate General are perhaps broader than those of others because we provide so many different services to the French community, things like social services, scholarships for French children into the French school, administrative services such as the issuance of IDs, passports, and even weddings. It’s a diverse mission. Historically, France has enjoyed a profitable investment relationship with Vietnam. However, in recent times, South Korea has become the prominent foreign investor into Vietnam, with France taking more of a back seat. Can you explain why? I wouldn’t exaggerate this trend because when it comes to investment and official development assistance (ODA), France

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is still one of the top ranking countries. I recently read statistics that said in January 2012, France was that month the top investor in Vietnam. However, it’s true that the Asian partners of Vietnam are reinforcing their position here, not only Korea, but also China, Singapore and Japan, all of whom have funded many important projects here. Also, Vietnam is part of ASEAN, so it’s normal that Asian partners are more active or have a bigger share of the investment and trade cake. Compared to other consulates, your office appears to be very active in the local community, with many arts, music and culture events held throughout the year. Why is that? The goal of what we’re doing at places like IDECAF or the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music is to reach the Vietnamese audience, not the French expats. These events are designed for the Vietnamese, first and foremost. This is an area we’re focusing on because it’s been a part of France’s policy into Vietnam since the beginning of the Doi Moi period in the 1980s. One issue I’m focusing more particularly on is cinema. Thanks to a special fund called Fonds Sud, France helps, among others, Vietnamese directors to produce their work. A few months ago we showed one of these movies, the beautiful Vertiges (Choi Voi) by Bui Thac Chuyen, at IDECAF. The place was crowded! We wish we could play more French movies in Vietnam in the commercial network because right now it’s not enough. We also wish that more people would come to watch these movies at IDECAF because not enough people are coming; it’s an area we have to improve upon.

How important is it for France to maintain a strong presence in Vietnam? Who stands to benefit more? Both of us, I hope! But it’s important for France to maintain a presence here because Vietnam is already and will continue to be one of the main players in Southeast Asia, if not a dominant player. We obviously have economic interests here — this is a country that will soon have a population of 100 million people that are getting richer year after year. But also, the problems Vietnam faces are also our problems, hence a need to maintain a strong presence here. For example, recently I visited the Institut Pasteur of Ho Chi Minh City to be briefed on public health issues in Vietnam like pandemics, avian flu and dengue fever, and to report on the means in which France and Vietnam can cooperate more in this field. Do you feel that there is any resentment still lingering because of the past? Absolutely no resentment. On the contrary, since I arrived in Vietnam I keep on hearing Vietnamese people and officials talking with praise about the legacy of France in Vietnam, in particular when it comes to architecture and culture. I take that as a tribute to the presence of France in Vietnam, a presence which is still strong and vivid and will continue to be so. That does not mean that our two countries are not able to face history, including the dark side of the presence of France in Vietnam. Recently I visited, in my hometown of Toulouse, an exhibition about the forced immigration of Vietnamese workers into factories in France in the 1920s and 1930s and the contribution of those people to the birth of the Vietnamese revolutionary movement. Fascinating and very moving, indeed.

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A FORWARD PASS The first people who played football in Saigon were French civil servants, merchants and soldiers. Then it got picked up locally. Now 'the beautiful game' is the biggest sport in Vietnam. Words by John Thornton

MAKING AN IMPRESSION James Allen speaks to gallery owner and curator Xuan Phuong on how the French brough the fine arts movement to Vietnam SITTING AT HER HEAVY WOODEN DESK, surrounded by sliding walls covered in art, Nguyen Thi Xuan Phuong is surprised that we want to speak to her about French artists in the city. “My gallery is not only for French artists at all. I promote Vietnamese artists,” she says, “In France twice a year, in fact.” Born to a wealthy family in French Indochina, Phuong has followed many different paths. Filmmaker, doctor, journalist, director and art critic to name a few, and at 83 there isn’t much she hasn’t experienced. Her enthusiasm seems endless. With surprising vitality Phuong hefts a heavy tome onto the desk between us, flicking through images of famous Vietnamese works. She tells us what art was like in Vietnam before the French arrived. “We had painters not artists,” Phuong explains. “Before the 20th century, there wasn’t a school for fine arts here or an arts movement. Drawing of course, people saw things they wanted to draw and they drew it, but no ‘ecole’.” Phuong adds that when the French came, they decided to establish Ecole des Beaux-

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Arts d’Indochine, Hanoi’s first art academy in 1924, to provide higher education in fine arts for the region. The founder and first director of the school, Victor Tardieu (also known as the “Father of Fine Art in Vietnam”), went from province to province recruiting those with talent to join the school. “We were influenced a lot by the French art movement. Only after this school did we have Vietnamese painters aware of different movements,” she continues. “Before they could make statues, for pagodas etc., but they knew nothing of the different movements. Now we have impressionists and surrealists, for example.”

In Her Honour After meeting many artists in the course of her career as a filmmaker and journalist, Phuong found that they were largely unknown to a wider audience, and there were precious few opportunities to exhibit their work. Eventually, thanks to friends in Paris, she was able to organise her first exhibition. But her reasons for the promotion of Vietnamese artists run deeper. “Before, the

WHEN THE FRENCH ORIGINALLY introduced football to a region known at the time as Cochinchina (southern Vietnam) in 1896, few would have predicted how big it would become. On July 20, 1908, the very first football game featuring Vietnamese players was contested between Phu My and Cho Dui, with the former beating the latter 2-0. Just over 100 years later and ‘the beautiful game’ is now recognised as Vietnam’s number one sport. The English Premier League, Italy’s Serie A and Spain’s La Liga are followed by the Vietnamese with the same level of adoration, devotion and passion as their European counterparts, while the collective hysteria that accompanies any game the Vietnam national team participates in is overwhelming. Yet, as football-mad as Vietnam is, the country has struggled to produce home grown professional players of international quality. Japan and South Korea are streets ahead, and even regional neighbours Thailand and Malaysia have enjoyed more on-pitch successes in recent years. In response, former St. Etienne and French international footballer Dominique Rocheteau and Tran Van Phu, founder of the SCAVI group (a textiles organisation), established the Scavi-Rocheteau Football Academy in 2007 in association with the Ho Chi Minh City Football Federation. Located in Tan Phu and run by French

and Vietnamese coaches and instructors, the main purpose of the academy is to develop Vietnamese football from the grass roots, with the aim of producing as many professional footballers as possible, be it in Vietnam’s Super League (formally known as the V-League) or at one of the clubs the academy has links with in France. “We currently have two of our players on trial at French clubs,” says Charly Leporc, executive director of Scavi-Rocheteau. “Nguyen Do and Le Dang Hung had trials at St. Etienne and Montpelier last September and both clubs have asked to see them again this month. We’re hopeful both will sign professional contracts”.

The Qualifying Draw The five-year programme, which initially selects a squad of 30 children from the age of 13 from Ho Chi Minh City and central Vietnam, sees the players train, play and live at the academy’s facilities. It not only focuses on improving technical skills through daily training sessions and weekly competitive matches in the Ho Chi Minh City men’s league, but places major emphasis on understanding physical conditioning and nutrition. “We recently had a nutritionist come to explain what the players should be eating and what they should be avoiding,” states Charlie. “We also have an agreement with

a European physical therapist specialised in sport to work with the players when needed, something no other academy in Vietnam does.” However, football isn’t the only thing on the academy’s agenda. The coaches at Scavi-Rocheteau also stress the importance of gaining an academic education, too. “Teachers from a local high school in Tan Phu teach at the academy every morning and evening,” says Charlie. “This year 16 players will pass their high school diploma and achieve a passing grade in their English language examination. We push them a lot academically because we know that not all of them will go on to play professional football.” Head coach and ex-professional footballer Jordy Cabarrecq thinks that maybe only six or eight of the current 22-man squad may make it professionally. However, this number is still higher than in Europe where only one or two will make the grade. And though the majority of professional football clubs in Vietnam draft in stronger, taller foreign players to score goals and win matches — a move that some believe has had a detrimental effect on the development of Vietnamese football — the addition of several other youth academies throughout the country, not least the JeanMarc Guillon Academy should bolster this nation’s chances of eventually producing it’s very own Dominique Rocheteau.

British, for example, had very little idea of Vietnamese culture. But the French, who had dominated the country for 100 years, only pictured Vietnam as war, suffering, poverty, bombing and so on. The 4,000 years of the civilisation were overlooked, nobody cared to understand them. That’s why I want to introduce and explain to the French that we have our own civilisation.” After that first exhibition in Paris in the 1970s, Phuong has continued to promote the art of Vietnam to France as well as to many other countries, even receiving the French Legion of Honour for her hard work in building relations between the two countries which currently hangs above her desk. There are many surprises like this hanging around Phuong’s Lotus Gallery (43 Dong Khoi, Q1) — a picture of the King of Sweden talking to Phuong in the gallery hangs at the bottom of the stairs, just another story from a long and rich past, and proof that after only an hour of conversation, you would be lucky to merely scratch the surface of a woman who has made it her mission to breathe new life into the fine arts scene of Vietnam.

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VIVE LA VILLA Historic buildings are essential to understanding a nation's heritage, but are the colonial French edifices still relevant to Vietnam’s modern identity? James Allen finds out “OUR HERITAGE ISN’T THEIR HERITAGE,” says Dr Fanny Quertamp Nguyen, when broached with the question on why colonial French buildings are being destroyed around the city. Dr Nguyen is a geographer and co-director of PADDI, a support, training and research centre for urban planners and architects in Ho Chi Minh City, and has studied and lived in Vietnam since 1996. PADDI is a department of the People’s Committee, co-financed and supported by the Rhone-Alps region of France in order to provide training, conferences and technical assistance as well as acting as a research and documentation database. She throws light on the issue of heritage in Vietnam and explains why looking back is vital when planning the city of the future. Are there some elements from French Indochina that play a part in the city’s present identity? The avenues and the boulevards. And most of the public spaces, especially the trees. The French architects and urban planners added these open public spaces, like the parks for instance. They also built a lot of canals. Actually, the main occupation of the French community here is in architecture, a lot of Vietnamese still want to use French inspired designs, with a Vietnamese twist of course.

Why are so many of the long-standing buildings being demolished in lieu of new high rises? Most of them aren’t viable anymore. From the French period until the 1990s, there was very little awareness and people didn’t take care of them, so they fell into disrepair. After 1975, the ownership of these buildings became complicated, some are privately owned, and others public. Some houses have been divided by different stakeholders and families and they have been modified, so to preserve them is very difficult. These are the main problems. It’s not that [people] don’t care; it’s just not their priority. Are they not recognised as part of the city’s history? It’s not so black and white. I work with young urban planners and one time I asked about our [PADDI] activities and our effect. They replied by saying, “Our city was planned by the French so now for us there is some kind of continuity. If we work with you, it is ingrained in Ho Chi Minh City”. Even the young want to keep this part; but they don’t have the tools or the money. Should more be done to protect these older buildings?

We recommend that people care about contemporary heritage and not just historical buildings. Some new ones are very specific to Ho Chi Minh City. They are very long like those in the backpacker district — the tunnel houses for example. Just look at the population density. You can’t find some of these types of buildings anywhere else. What advice does PADDI give in a situation like this? We say be clear on what you want to do. If you don’t want to preserve it, then don’t focus your energy on this. If you want to preserve it, then do it; there isn’t a lot of middle ground. Ho Chi Minh City wants to be one of the main metropolitan areas in Southeast Asia. They need to find a strong identity like other cities in the region. So, will the French have a hand in future city developments? A Frenchman, Olivier Souquet, won the prize for the Central Plaza design for the Thu Thiem Project in District 2, which will be a major new development. The plaza will be a symbol for the area — an important place; these large public areas are popular here. It’s incredibly important to develop more blue and green spaces around the city.

A LA MODE The marriage between Vietnamese and French cuisine has produced some of the country’s best-known dishes. Words by James Allen HOW VIETNAMESE IS THAT BANH MI you’re eating? Not very Vietnamese at all. In fact, most of the ingredients — pa te, bo, carrot and the baguette itself — were introduced by the French. Everyday Vietnamese dietary staples like croissants, onions, asparagus, flan and beef are so much a part of this country’s eating habits, that not even the younger Vietnamese are aware of their origin. And let’s not forget the big one — ca phe, as much a part of daily Vietnamese life as pho. “They love the coffee, pretty damn good beans here too, which make exactly the kind of coffee we like. But it’s the method of roasting here that’s different to ours,” explains Alexis Melgrani, owner of new French restaurant Le Bouchon de Saigon. “After the French left I think people just got used to drinking coffee in the morning and reading the papers,” says Phuc, who practices this ritual herself. “It’s so popular, you see it everywhere.” The influence doesn’t stop there. With wine available in the city during the colonial period, sot vang, a method of cooking with wine, was adopted and still exists today as well as the popular dining option bit tet or

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beefsteak. While French cuisine was once only accessible to the elite and affluent classes, it is now gaining a wider fan base among the Vietnamese because of the advent of affordable French restaurants flourishing around the city.

Home Grown Gils Brault, owner and chef of Les Trois Gourmands, a French restaurant located in District 2, has seen a huge increase in the amount of Vietnamese patrons in his time in Ho Chi Minh City. “My customers are 65 to 70 percent Vietnamese. Sunday night for example, of the 30 covers that we served, at least 18 were Vietnamese, which really isn’t bad.” Gils explains. “They want to discover French food and they aspire to a higher standard of living. Some Vietnamese people come twice a week. The population is getting wealthier and so is gaining access to western food. Many can afford our entry level menu.” Gils attributes the cut in cost to Vietnam’s friendly terrain where farmers like Daniel Carsol, a winemaker from the French wineproducing region of Avignon, can harvest

wine grapes on Ta Nung Mountain, near the Central Highlands city of Dalat, thereby eliminating the high fee of importing from overseas. Gils, himself, also makes as much as he can here and his products are now in high demand. “The average cheese I make costs around VND65,000,” he explains. “The imported cheese costs at least twice or even three times this price.” As well as cheese, he now produces his own saucisson and plans to start making his own foie gras. Although Alexis is not currently producing like Gils, he makes every effort to source as much as possible from Vietnam. “Whatever we can get from here, we do. It’s been six months of research, a lot of research, but it’s worth it.” Thanks to a growing network of foreign producers in the area including Gils, providing everything from rabbits to magret de canard this is becoming easier and easier. This and a growing number of Vietnamese diners will mean even more French dishes joining the ranks of Vietnamese staples like bit tet, ca phe and pa te.

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LES AFFAIRES As the CEO of The Apple Tree Group in Asia, Eric Merlin tells John Thornton that the key to a successful business is timing and location SINCE ARRIVING FRESH OFF THE boat as a 25-year-old backpacker in 1992, Eric Merlin has built a business empire in Vietnam unlike no other. From travel and hospitality, real estate and construction, to import and distribution, and premium retail, this French entrepreneur can count Exotissimo Travel, Emeraude Classic Cruises, The Warehouse, Archetype Group, Annam Gourmet and numerous other companies among his many business ventures. When you first thought about opening up a business here, what did you feel was lacking and, why? Twenty years ago there was a lack of everything — hotels, restaurants, travel services, you name it. As an entrepreneur, every time you see something wrong or lacking, you see an opportunity to correct it.

BON VOYAGE The first air-bound voyage from Marseille to what was then known as Saigon, took a staggering 10 days and over 18 stops. Now, families from both countries can meet face-to-face in the same day. John Thornton finds out how Vietnam has spread its wings “IT’S NOT A WELL-KNOWN FACT BUT Air France has actually been operating flights to Vietnam since 1931,” reveals Delphine Buglio, sales manager for the Gallic airline. She describes the spirit and experience of this maiden journey as “adventurous” and compares it to making “flea jumps” across the globe. Though the flight didn’t carry tourists at the time, it laid the foundations of a rich travel history between the two countries that last year resulted in Air France becoming the first foreign airline to operate direct flights between Vietnam and Europe. With the recent addition of Vietnam Airlines operating direct routes between Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and London, it appears other airlines are starting to take notice of the potential that lies not only in the foreign demographic but increasingly in the domestic market, too. But why did it take so long to reach this point? “Compared to other countries in the region such as Thailand, for instance, which has a long standing experience in welcoming tourists, Vietnam has started attracting international tourists only

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some 20 years ago. Besides, Vietnamese themselves started travelling abroad, and in Europe and France particularly, only very recently,” explains Delphine. Indeed, according to figures published by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (VNAT), Vietnam received over six million international visitors in 2011. Of that, over 200,000 were from France, meaning France was the top ranking European country and ninth in the top 10 countries in the world in terms of international visitors to Vietnam last year. In regards specifically to French tourism in Vietnam, this figure is up six percent on 2010, says the General Statistics Office. So, what’s the appeal? “Tourism, due to the strong historical ties between the two countries,” she says. “Though developing fast, Vietnam still holds the reminiscence of the French colonial era that French people find attractive and besides possesses many cultural and natural resources.”

Business Class However, business also holds sway. Delphine

Besides filling gaps in the market, what was it about Vietnam that convinced you to set up shop? I fell in love with this country. It’s charming and I wanted to show it to more people. What struck me was the sense of familiarity I felt as a French person in Vietnam. I didn’t

feel nostalgic because nostalgia alludes to ‘the good ole days’ and not everything was good during the colonial period, but everything has traces of French history here. Vietnam is experiencing a phenomenal business boom now. How do you think it’s coping? In general, what’s happened in Vietnam over the last 20 years is unbelievable. Sure, we can complain that certain things aren’t perfect but if you look at the bigger picture it’s remarkable in terms of growth. And when I say growth I don’t mean economic growth only, I’m talking about evolution and how the state of mind has changed. The new generation appears to be adapting very well. Of course, there is an elite group that has taken a bigger part of the cake, and there are those that have been left behind. This is normal, but generally with the balance of private, foreign and state-owned companies, in every sector there is a little bit of everything and everybody benefits with better salaries and higher living standards. To make a comparison with Europe, if even one percent of the change that’s been

experienced here had happened in France, there’d have been a riot. Here they cope with everything, they learn, they change, they grow. I admire the Vietnamese people a lot. What does the future hold for French businesses here? I think we have a good card to play, the future is bright, but there is nothing that makes us stand out from other foreign businesses here specifically. However, 20 years ago, yes, if you were French you had a slight competitive advantage because a good chunk of the people in power at that time spoke French. And is it still possible for someone to achieve what you did 20 years ago? There are opportunities opening up in new markets all of the time but for small players and entrepreneurs looking to start up a business? No, I don’t think so. When I started Exotissimo Travel and Yves Rocher I was alone, there was no competition. Today, the game is too big, there are so many players. There is still room for new entrants, but they need to have money and a big reputation behind them, otherwise they will be lost in the noise.

says there are around 300 French companies in Vietnam, operating in hospitality and tourism, engineering and construction, wholesale and distribution, among other. “French economic presence is significant but growth is relatively modest, as most French top companies are already established. Some large-scale initiatives such as the French Week in 2008 in Ho Chi Minh City and in 2010 in Hanoi are organised to boost ties between the two countries and to attract more investment into the country,” she continues. But leisure and business travel aren’t all. In fact, out of approximately 3.7 million overseas Vietnamese living abroad, France holds the third rank with 250,000 Viet Kieus. Delphine also believes that “French Viet Kieus are still strongly attached to their homeland and regularly return or visit their families in Vietnam, especially around Tet. I read that over 5,000 Vietnamese students are travelling to France to study ever year. The number one country is Australia with 25,000 Vietnamese students, followed by the US with 15,000. So, France isn’t too far behind”.

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PARLEZ VOUS FRANCAIS? Ask this question to someone Vietnamese and the answer is usually, “No”. Despite the hundreds of Gallic-influenced words now used in Vietnamese, French is no longer the foreign language of choice for the country’s youth. Words by James Allen WITH 100 YEARS UNDER FRENCH colonial rule ending in 1954, surprisingly not as many Vietnamese parlent the langue as you’d think. In fact Tran Thi Mai Yen, director of the Regional Francophone Centre for AsiaPacific (CREFAP) — an organisation created to support French education and language programmes as well as providing training for teachers in Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Vanuatu and Vietnam — estimates that there are as little as 500,000 Vietnamese people who can speak French as a second language, and not all to an advanced level. To put this number in perspective the International Francophone Organisation (IOF) states that there are around 220 million French speakers worldwide. French is also the official language or one of the official languages in 32 of the IOF’s member states, governments or observers, of which there are 75. But even with such a long history of external influence, Yen says that “Vietnamese people have always had their own language. We are a very independent people. Even though there have been other languages, we have always primarily spoken ours.” Yen explains that it’s not such a surprise that the number of French speakers isn’t higher: “The French took the country for one hundred years, before that China had it for

1,000 years, but they could not change the language. We borrowed words, [adapted] the written language, but the sounds remained very Vietnamese.” She estimates that even at the height of French colonisation, only 20 percent of the population at the time were actually speaking French.

Taking Out a Loan Although the Vietnamese language wasn’t as greatly affected as it was during the Chinese occupation, some loan words have crept in, which, despite others being dropped, have stuck around — words like ca phe (coffee) from cafe, pho mat (cheese) from fromage or xa bong (soap) from savon — are some of the more obvious, but there are countless more. Even the word for ‘law’, phap luat, makes a reference to the French rules imposed during colonisation. Phap is the word ‘French’ in Vietnamese. In 2012 the main problem CREFAP faces is the younger generation, few of whom see the point in learning a language that isn’t English. “It’s important for us now to train more teachers,” says Yen. “We are still training more teachers in better methodology, creating interest and confidence.” As part of this process, more is being done to raise the awareness of the language and

to reach out to school children. It was only after CREFAP was founded in 1993 that French was once again used as a tool to teach subjects alongside Vietnamese, rather than just as a foreign language. But with the falling number of French teachers in Vietnam — at present there are only 1,500 — it is even more important for Yen and CREFAP to get their message across. “Everyone learns English,” she says. “People should learn French first and then move onto English. If you learn English first and can communicate with everyone, then you don’t see the use of learning another language. You miss out on so much of the culture attached to the use of another language like French.” In spite of the younger generation’s apathy for learning French, Yen is hopeful there will be a rise in popularity. Accessibility is a key factor, as thanks to CREFAP, exposure to French language and culture has become far easier compared to when the organisation began its work in 1993. At the time, only the lucky few who could afford to travel were able to pursue a French education. But now the demand for the language is opening up thanks in large part to the amount of jobs being generated by French business owners in the city.

VOCAL SCORE John Thornton talks to French DJ Kamel Night and discovers the beautiful music that comes from a collaboration of sounds “I DJ’D AT THE SOFITEL PLAZA ON New Year’s Eve and I met a very famous Vietnamese songstress,” says Kamel Night, referring to Y Lan, daughter of arguably Vietnam’s most prolific chanteuse, Thai Thanh. “She sang two classic French songs that night, La Vie En Rose by Edith Piaf and Mon Amants De Saint Jean by Lucienne Delyle. And you know what, she sang them in a way that just isn’t done any more.” He’s talking about the union between Vietnamese and French music. “It would be great to make an album of Vietnamese singers singing old French songs. They appreciate the sounds made from the accordion, the trumpet, the old beats.” Even Kamel himself, a devout hip-hop head who arrived in the city five years ago to finish a degree in international business at Hoa Sen University (the first university to be supported by the Lotus Association in France), has been known to spin a few Gallic golden oldies on occasion. Though as proudly as he acknowledges

44 | The Word March 2012

the cultural exports of his home country, he’s quick to stress the influence Vietnam has had on his own career. “I’ve become a better artist here,” he says. “Working with guys like DJ Jase and MCs like Wowy has made me produce better music of my own.” Nowhere is this more apparent than on Saigon Dep Lam, a hip-hop track produced by Kamel and featuring a trio of Vietnamese MCs (Nha, Thai and Wowy) that takes its title and uses samples from a song composed by Vietnamese singersongwriter Y Van in 1952. Originally an acoustic ode to the beauty of this city, Kamel hopes they’ve kept the spirit of the original alive in their own modern interpretation.

Broken Chord And with the local hip-hop and DJ scenes beginning to thrive and become more original and expressive, Kamel, who has been DJing for 17 years, is already seeing warning signs that the next generation

is attempting to run before it can walk. Occasionally stopping by to jam with kids at the Digital Music Agency (DMA), a French-run DJ training centre for aspiring Vietnamese DJs, the difficulty lies not in their technical ability but in their priorities. “The problem with the new generation of Vietnamese DJs is that their focus is on money,” he explains. “Once they learn how to match beats and mix sounds together they think that’s enough to make a party and get paid. It isn’t, and inevitably these guys get burned because they end up playing music they don’t want to play at clubs that don’t suit who they really are as DJs.” Having established his own Vietnamese following, Kamel is set take time away from Vietnam to produce an album and tour in France. “I’m proud to be French, it’s important. I tell you that because everything I’ve achieved here is because of my home country. But Vietnam has also given me a lot, too. When I go home I’ll be listening to Saigon Dep Lam [the original], waiting to come back.”

March 2012 The Word | 45

DESTINATION: THE MYANMAR SPECIAL

Myanmar (Re)Visited For years the country formerly known as Burma was on the receiving end of the western press. Now, statesmen, tourists and businessmen alike are taking time to visit. Words by Nick Ross

The Time is Right But enter 2012 and Myanmar’s pariah status and isolation is on the wane. As a measure of where Southeast Asia’s second largest country is heading, take the internet. For the past decade it existed, but service was slow and intermittent. A plethora of sites were blocked, too. Now, 18 months on from the replacement of the junta with a civilian government, the quality of the internet connection is still up for grabs, but websites are no longer blocked. And in certain locations, Yangon International Airport as well as some of the top-end restaurants and cafes in Yangon, the connection speed rivals that of the developed world. You can even get onto Facebook. However, outside of those places, such luxuries are nonexistant.

That such a change is taking place is a sign of a country that is opening up. Cyclone Nargis in 2008 and the religious disturbances in 2007 have welded themselves to the national consciousness. Ceasefires are in operation in the tribal conflicts on the Thai border, and no longer is the old order deemed acceptable, a status quo that has shackled the country to poverty. And now, Aung San Suu Kyi, the talisman figure known locally as ‘The Lady’, is campaigning to be elected to the national parliament. A few years ago, with the west siding with the non-ruling power, such an eventuality would have seemed absurd.

Luck be a Lady My visit to Myanmar coincided with The Lady’s ongoing and very public campaign to be elected to parliament. Just the weekend before I arrived for my six-day stint in this country, international headlines were swollen with news of her first rally outside of Yangon. This was followed up locally. On the second day of my trip, four local newspapers ran with an image of her as their top story. And portraits of both Suu Kyi and her father, General Aung San — the assassinated visionary who brokered Myanmar’s independence from the British — were for sale on almost every intersection. Even a bootlegged copy of the recently released Luc Besson movie, The Lady, was being peddled on Yangon’s many overpasses. Crunch time is in April and the outside world is waiting for its outcome. Will there truly be change? In return, will sanctions be lifted? In the meantime, the hotels — at least the ones listed in Lonely Planet or on Agoda — are fully booked as

India

China

MYANMAR Bagan

Mandalay Inle Lake

NAYPYIDAW BAY OF BENGAL

Yangon

Thailand

PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

ince I first stepped foot in Southeast Asia I have wanted to envelope myself in the mystery of Myanmar. In the north it straddles The Himalayas, in the south it boasts desert island paradise and in between are exotic-sounding names like Mandalay and the Irrawaddy River. Then there is Bagan, the other Angkor Wat, Shwedagon, a pagoda with stupas plated in gold, and Yangon, a crumbling city built by the British. But like so many others I had been put off by the so called “tourist boycott”. Visit Myanmar, ran the usual tirade in the western press, and you’re putting your money in the hands of the country’s junta. Then there was the general negativity of a former work colleague who described herself as ‘Burmese’. She was forever distressed by the state of her motherland. Travelling to Myanmar, it seemed, would be a step too far.

Untainted Love The cordiality was first experienced a few hours after we arrived as myself and my travelling companion attempted to buy a SIM card in Yangon. Putting the SIMs into our phone — they cost us 20,000 kyat (VND500,000) — we couldn’t get them to work. And of course, the shop owners, despite selling mobile phones, were also unsure of what was wrong. Simultaneously, the thought struck both my companion and myself. If the SIMs don’t work, then do we ask for our money back? In most other countries you would, but despite our short time in Yangon, we were already conscious of the poverty. There is vibrancy and a distinct colonial feel to this metropolis, but it’s also ramshackle and cracking at the joints. Even the cars — there are no motorbikes in the capital — were 25 years old.

48 | The Word March 2012

THANAKA Used as both sunblock and make-up, this beigecoloured paste made from tree bark is applied to both male and female faces throughout the country. LONGYI Although trousers are catching on, the main form of male leg-attire is a tartan-like sarong wrapped and tied at the waist. Not good in heavy wind. RIGHT-HAND DRIVE Although these days Myanmar's traffic drives on the right, most cars here are right-hand drive — think UK, Indonesia, Thailand and Japan. Many reasons are cited for this nuance, but the most likely is superstition.

Should I Stay or Should I Go?

Love Thy Neighbour As I wandered through Yangon and then later basked in the sunset and sunrise views over the temples of Bagan, I encountered many similar incidents and had countless, fascinating conversations. In Thailand you are ignored unless you’re spending money, in Cambodia, except for those working in the tourist industry, few people speak English.

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

O N LY I N M Y A N M A R

The issue got resolved. But throughout the encounter, the shopkeeper and his assistant were so gentle and pleasant, that it was impossible to get angry. Later that day as we tried to buy bus tickets, someone explained. “We’re just happy to see tourists here,” he said to me over Indian-style tea with condensed milk. “If you’re spending money, it’s good for our people, for our country.” I wanted to try some betel nut. Get rid of the image of only old women with the red teeth tag, in Myanmar it’s chewed by everyone. The man went away and came back a few minutes later with a folded up leaf full of a white substance. I offered to pay. He refused. It was so bitter I was unable to chew it long enough for the leaf to turn red, but I felt the hit. “We don’t really care who is in power,” continued the man. “All we want is for life to get better. Now we have hope.” A few years ago, such a sentiment would have never been expressed publicly.

PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

tourists fly in and the businessmen search for opportunities. In a country with a decaying infrastructure and where English is still widely spoken, there are many. What struck me during my visit were the people. In my six days over the border I took two overnight bus trips so I could cocoon myself in the man-made wonder that is Bagan. I had little sleep. Despite my fatigue and tendency to be irritable, in this region I have never been on the receiving end of such amiability and generosity.

I visited Hindu temples and the aweinspiring Shwedagon Pagoda, entered the city’s mosques, walked through markets, ate as much street food as I could stomach and took a look round Yangon’s recently refurbished 100-year-old synagogue. I even drunk up the highs of living like an expat when I visited a former work colleague and his family in their hotel complex on Inya Lake. But my final day in this surprisingly multi-ethnic city remains embedded in my mind. I had just got off an overnight bus and my hotel room was still occupied. So, with time to burn I decided to take the Circle Line train around the city. It’s a three-hour journey on trains that have not been replaced since the British left. For all those anoraks out there, it’s a revelation. As I walked over the bridge to the train station I saw a woman begging and breastfeeding her baby. I gave her some money. A man walk passed and said, “Thank you!” I was stunned. In the station, I was having trouble buying my ticket — foreigners still have to go through a complicated process on the country’s train system. Together with a man who was sweeping the platform, a monk helped me out. Then, when I asked for a map of the line, they managed to get me a hand-drawn version in English. There’s nothing printed. On the train, another man, a meditation teacher who had attended conferences in both the UK and the US, got involved. He bought me some Burmese sweets and when I got off with him at Insein, he ensured that I got on the right bus back into town. He made sure I paid the right price. These are all simple acts of kindness, but they are ones that are remembered, especially when you are a stranger.

A couple of years ago a friend of mine, a Scottish IT worker based in Saigon, told me about his annual trips to Myanmar. I had questioned him about whether or not he should be travelling there. He replied: “It’s difficult. Really difficult. And it breaks my heart to see how the people are suffering. But, every time I go there I try and do some good. It’s worth it.” Now in 2012, the country has started to open up. But spending time in Myanmar isn’t easy — at times it can be a struggle. Like Vietnam, Cambodia and Indonesia were in the late 1990s, this nation of 54.5 million people is raw and the country is largely undeveloped. Except in Bagan, where people’s attitude can be a touch more cynical, Myanmar’s population has yet to be affected by mass tourism. Get there now, before it changes.

I N F O R M A T I O N

WHERE TO VISIT Most tourists visit ‘The Big Four’ — Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and Inle Lake. With a minimum of ten days in Myanmar, getting to all four places is realistic. Internal flights with the likes of Air Bagan, Air Mandalay and Yangon Airways can save time and uncomfortable overnight bus journeys. For more information on visiting Myanmar do a search on Wikipedia or go to: www.myanmar-tourism.com. GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines flies direct to Yangon from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Round trips cost around VND8.5 million including taxes and airport fees. The same trip via Bangkok with Air Asia goes for around VND6.5 million return. CURRENCY Although there are now ATM machines and credit cards are accepted in top-end establishments, bring cash. American dollars and euro is best. This is easily exchanged into kyat. At the time of writing, US$1 = 800 kyat. Make sure the notes are blemish-free or they won’t be accepted. PAYMENT Except for hotels, most financial

transactions t ti are made d iin kkyat.t The best rates are available in the downtown banks in Yangon and Mandalay. Make sure you stock up in advance. Rates elsewhere are poor. COSTS Compared to equivalent Southeast Asian destinations, at times Myanmar can feel expensive. The worst offenders are the hotels. Although rooms start from as little as US$6 (VND120,000), budget rates in basic accommodation sit around US$15 (VND300,000) a night. Basic mid-range hits about US$60 (VND1.3 million). Going fivestar costs hundreds. Transport is also surprisingly dear. The overnight bus from Yangon to Bagan, for example, costs 15,000 kyat (VND380,000), 30 to 50 percent more expensive than its Vietnam equivalent. The train for the same journey costs US$50 (VND1.05 million). Food, however, both on the streets and in restaurants tends to mirror the prices in Vietnam — a standard tourist restaurant meal will cost between VND60,000 and VND150,000. As an idea for how much money you should bring, use the following guide: Budget — US$20 to US$60 per day

Mid R t US$150 per day d Mid-Range — US$100 to Top-End — US$250 plus per day

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS The authorities place a tariff on most of the country's main attractions. Shwedagon Pagoda, for example, costs VND105,000. To get into Bagan you pay VND210,000 for one week. SPENDING To ensure your hard earned dollars go to those who need it most, spread it around. Avoid package tours. Eat on the street as much as you eat elsewhere. Stay in cheaper hotels and take rickshaws, local buses, local boats and the horse and cart in Bagan rather than hiring a Jeep or taking a state-sponsored tour. This way a larger number of people can get a share of the spoils. VISAS 28-day visas can be obtained in Bangkok in as little as 24 hours (expect to pay VND1.6 million for the privilege — check out www.vegatravelbangkok.com for more information). Otherwise the consulate in Ho Chi Minh City (50, Sam Son, Tan Binh) or the embassy in Hanoi (298A Kim Ma) can process applications in about a week for much less.

March 2012 The Word | 49

DESTINATION: THE MYANMAR SPECIAL

City of Dreams While Angkor Wat has rightfully carved out its place as one of the richest historical locations in Southeast Asia, Bagan can also lay claim to such an accolade. Natalie Krebs explores a quieter former capital and discovers Myanmar’s hidden charm. Photos by Phil Burnett

ow long are you staying in Bagan for?” Khin asks me. “Two days.” “Oh no, you can’t stay here two days. That’s not nearly enough time. You need three or four days at least to see it all.” I’ve just met Khin, a tall, thin 23-year-old Burmese painter, and he’s absolutely right. No one should stay in Bagan, Myanmar for only two days. With more than 2,200 ancient Buddhist temples, monasteries and stupas sprinkled across an area of 26 square miles, it’s nothing short of a lie to say you’ve covered it all in just 48 hours. But two days is all I have, and armed with a map and a rented, old one-speed bike, I’m attempting to do just that. It was about 4.30pm when I stumbled

upon the impressive looking wall enclosing the temple of North Guni. I’ve interrupted my new friend’s routine. He comes here every day to sell his paintings to tourists. “This is a good spot to watch the sunset,” Khin assures me. Business is slow today for the native of New Bagan. The small temple is empty except for the two of us. He leads me up a steep set of brick stairs. We climb through a mess of steep staircases and narrow passageways and duck through several awkwardly low arches until we reach the top. It’s whisper quiet, and the sun is sweeping quickly under the horizon, illuminating the thousands of temples spread out before me. Those in the

distance are no bigger than the size of my thumbnail, and I watch tourists swarm the top of the nearby Dhammayangyi Pahto and relish in having my own spot after a long day.

All That Remains Centuries ago, the now sleepy area of Bagan, was anything but quiet. Lying 118 miles south of Mandalay, it is estimated at the height of its power that the former capital was home to more than 4,000 Buddhist temples, stupas and pagodas. My first stop this morning is the Shwezigon Paya — famous for its shrine to 37 natural Buddhist spirits called nats. “Madame! Over here! Come look at my shop!” But the souvenir hawkers and tourists

"Bagan stood abandoned and descended into years of neglect, erosion, looting and was struck by at least 16 major earthquakes between 1174 and 1975"

overwhelm me as soon as I step foot in the temple, and I carve out my own path. This is how Bagan works. Two thin, paved roads connect the three towns of Nyaung U, New Bagan and Old Bagan, but the majority of the temples lie in the central plain area connected by a spider web-like network of dirt roads, which makes getting off the literal beaten path quite easy. I spend my afternoon in the unrestored, empty temples, walking through crumbling brick archways, climbing dusty staircases and admiring old, cracked Buddhist sculptures. Bagan’s glory period lasted 230 years, from 1047 to 1287 and was kicked off when King Anawratha converted to Theravada Buddhism. Experts estimate that at the height of its power, construction began on

52 | The Word March 2012

"It’s whisper quiet, and the sun is sweeping quickly under the horizon, illuminating the thousands of temples spread out before me"

a new temple every two weeks. Beginning in the 13th century, the capital began to crumble. The Burmese believe the decline was the result of a Mongol invasion, however, this idea is still disputed by historians. Whatever the reason, Bagan stood abandoned and descended into years of neglect, erosion and looting and was struck by at least 16 major earthquakes between 1174 and 1975. Today, 2,217 temples remain, and people didn’t begin moving back until the height of British colonial rule during the mid-19th century. At North Guni, the sun has set and Khin ushers me out of the temple. Darkness falls fast in this part of the country, and the unforgiving cold quickly sweeps the land. I decide I’ll return tomorrow. “I’ll be here,” he says, before we part ways on the dirt path.

Golden Earth I don’t know where I am until I see the sign for the Lawkananda Pagoda. It’s about ten in the morning, and I’ve biked about three miles from Nyaung U to New Bagan. The riverside pagoda is famous for possibly holding an ancient Buddha tooth relic, but I find I love sitting by the Irrawaddy River taking in the cool breeze and watching the fishermen. It’s mostly empty except for three elderly Burmese women praying and a couple of souvenir hawkers standing around the entrance. Bagan is still a budget traveller’s dream. The only entrance fee is the VND210,000 admittance fee that is paid upon arrival, and backpackers can easily survive on less than VND420,000 a day. However, most of the interesting temples, like the Lawkananda Pagoda, are a hike away from

budget friendly Nyaung U, where rooms of various quality go for VND126,000 to VND315,000. Closer to the action, room prices are priced around VND420,000 a night in New Bagan and upward from VND735,000 in Old Bagan. But I don’t mind distance. Today, I’ve found that it’s only brought me to more interesting places and people, like Zu Zu. The cute little Burmese girl in front of me looks no more than ten. She’s in a dark blue dress slowly eating a line of crabapples that she’s strung together herself. I was on my way back when two smaller temples caught my eye. I ask what they’re called. “No name,” she says pointing to the Burmese numbers engraved on the side of one of the temples. Zu Zu is 11. She lives in Old Bagan with her family in a two-room house just to the

side of the small, nameless temples. She leads me across the street to a temple sitting quietly in the shade where her father is a gatekeeper and takes me upstairs to the highlight on the second floor — a beautiful sculpture of the Buddha standing about 6ft tall, painted a striking crimson red color. She points to a large crack running right through the Buddha’s face from the massive earthquake that rocked the area in 1975. Since 1995, almost 1,300 structures in Bagan have been rebuilt and 688 have received major repairs. Following the earthquake, UNESCO spent 15 years and US$1million on restoration efforts, but the government has recently undertaken most renovation projects. I study the giant Buddha tracing the lines and cracks across his body before thanking the little girl for bringing me here. She just

hands me a string of crabapples in return. I’ve almost given up finding North Guni. The path leads me to one identical looking temple after another, and I begin to search for any spot to enjoy the sunset. I follow the horse carts full of tourists along the giant wall of the Dhammayangyi Pahto watching the sun’s descent like a ticking timer, when I see the familiar brick wall. Khin is where I left him. I watch my final sunset in Bagan. I leave early tomorrow on a bus before sunrise. “That’s it,” I say to Khin. He nods. “But it will come back tomorrow?” I ask. He cracks a small smile at my bad joke before slinging his paintings over his shoulder, ready for the dark bike ride home. “Yes,” he says. “Of course it will come back tomorrow.”

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W W OUT & ABOUT

EATING CHINATOWN

Forget watered down versions of Chinese cuisine. Around Cholon’s great market there are numerous options for anyone who wants to feast on the real deal. Words by Michael Arnold. Photos by Charles Barnes 54 | The Word March 2012

ITH THE sunrise, Cho Binh Tay, the great market in Ho Chi Minh City’s Chinese quarter is summoned to life once more, swelling with its crowds as it breathes them through its central gates, sending them circulating off again into the frenetic pathways of Chinatown. One of the largest wholesale trading venues in southern Vietnam, Binh Tay is the icon of the prosperous old Chinese districts. As one of the city’s best examples of Franco-Chinese architecture that remain, it’s also a symbol of the willingness of the ethnic Chinese to blend in wherever they may be. Centuries into the Chinese presence in this region, elements of the old culture remains; while the emerging generations speak Vietnamese far more fluently than the Sinitic languages of their grandparents, the Hoa people of Cholon still identify themselves as a distinct community with their own customs and practices — and their own cuisine. They’re not always forthcoming about these points of difference, however — visitors to Cholon expecting to find the streets packed with Chinese restaurants are often disappointed, as genuine Hoa dining tends to take place in the shadows of Cholon’s labyrinthine back alleys. The countless traditions of Chinese cooking, comprising one of the world’s most tempting cuisines, remain somewhat hidden away.

Dim Sum Yum While the early risers at the market are starting up another day’s trading, other Hoa nearby with a slightly more leisurely schedule are preparing for the family breakfast. As the descendants of southern Chinese people, traditional dim sum is an important heritage cuisine, and it can still be found in Cholon if you know where to look: one local favourite is Tien Phat (18 Ky Hoa,

LITTLE DRAGONS Steamed pork buns at Tien Phat

Q5), in the back streets across from Parkson at Huong Vuong Plaza. Tien Phat’s prominent, bright red signage advertises its speciality — genuine Hong Kong-style breakfasts with their colourful assortments of morsel-sized delicacies. Inside, small groups of diners clack their chopsticks at steaming wicker baskets of dumplings and rice rolls (VND21,000), stuffed crab’s claws (VND35,000) and spicy chicken’s feet (VND30,000), slurping up doll-sized cups of hot green tea (VND35,000/pot). If they’re indulging, they’ll order egg buns (VND38,000) — steamed rolls oozing with an addictive sweet Chinese custard. The restaurant’s noodle breakfasts are a compromise to Vietnamese tastes, but feature classic Chinese elements such as wonton (VND29,000/VND34,000), braised trotters (VND29,000) and fish balls (VND27,000). The Hoa aren’t here for those, however — they’ll choose the Steamed Pork Chinese Cabbage Buns (VND30,000), which are really Shanghai xiaolongbao (“little dragon” dumplings) filled with spoonfuls of thick meaty broth and sealed off at the top with a twist of the dough. One bite and the warm soup cascades pleasantly over the tongue. Those looking for a more ceremonious dim sum might be tempted to visit the dusty and largely vacant Thuan Kieu Plaza over on the other side of Parkson. Hai San (1st floor, Thuan Kieu Plaza, 190 Dai Lo Hong Bang, Q5) looks its age at 12 years old — but over the years it has acquired a reputation for serving fine Cantonese breakfasts, as well as for its dinner menus that feature impressive seafood dishes from various Chinese provinces. Hai San serves classic dim sum, with most baskets and plates priced evenly at VND38,000 each. Large Chinese families dining together keep the waiters busy — they can sometimes be difficult to summon — but this is all part of the atmosphere; the cheerful boisterousness, the everpresent steam and smell of traditional Chinese ingredients, and the thudding reverberations of karaoke performers who leap up to the stage to deliver old-style Chinese ballads. With all this

March 2012 The Word | 55

7 WONDERS Stairway to food heaven

PANCAKES? Bo bia Phuc Kien at Gia Phu

theatre, this is a meal to be taken slow — the restaurant serves dim sum through to 2pm — so there’s plenty of time. The deep-fried dim sum are Hai San’s best — hunks of crispy-shelled taro in salty and sweet varieties, and shrimp dumplings similar to the deep-fried wontons of Western Chinese fast food. On Sundays, the steamed barbeque pork pie (VND20,000), a flaky pastry sandwich, is worth making the trip for. For a surprise treat at the end of it all, the pan-fried bread (VND20,000) is a crispy sphere studded with sesame seeds and filled with a divine sweet lotus paste.

in which a Tang Dynasty monk was so tempted by the soup’s smell that he leapt over the wall between the temple and the diner, abandoning his vegetarianism. It’s a deeply aromatic soup with a number of rare ingredients, the scallops in particular giving the dish an uncommon richness. Less expensive Fujianese delicacies are also listed on the menu’s front page — bo bia Phuc Kien is a spring roll with a pancake shell rather than a rice paper wrapping, and is eaten without dipping sauce — a steal at only VND12,000 each.

Eat Drink Man Woman

Getting Your Just Desserts

By early evening, Seven Wonders (7 Ky Quan, So 12 Duong 26, Q6) out behind the District 6 Metro is gearing up for its own symphony of Chinese delicacies. This is one of Cholon’s most curious restaurant designs, representing the Parthenon, the Taj Mahal and the Pyramids as well as other World Heritage sites. Those of the old Motherland prefer to sit on the restaurant’s terrace, nicely styled after the Great Wall of China. Dishes from the architect/owner’s ancestral home of Chaozhou are among the most authentic on the menu, including some fine braised dishes — the braised bacon (VND140,000/VND280,000/VND420,000) is chunky and tender, while the braised sea cucumber with Chinese mushrooms (VND280,000/VND520,000/VND780,000) is believed to be a traditional aphrodisiac. Fried spring rolls Trieu Chau style (VND140,000/VND280,000/VND420,000) are an interesting Chinese analogue of the Vietnamese national dish. The crowning item on the menu is the Beijing roast duck (VND460,000). Crisp and fragrant, this centuries-old imperial recipe

Like the rest of Ho Chi Minh City, Cholon never sleeps. Cruising around the warm, darkened streets at night, many young Hoa stop at the Tran Hung Dao/Phung Hung roundabout to sit for a while at Tiem Che Lam Thanh (cnr Tran Hung Dao & Phung Hung, Q5), a Cantonese sweet soup stall. Their unusual drinks and desserts are derived from old medicinal formulas, foremost among them being qingbuliang, said to be a powerful detoxicant. The late-night diners sit at their streetside metal tables clutching beer mugs that look like miniature aquariums with their assortments of plants swimming in clear, sweetened, ice-cold broth — lotus seeds and chunky lotus roots, seaweed, dates, dried longan, white fungus, soaked grains and slices of a herbal root similar to ginseng. Spooned into the mouth, the concoction is surprisingly mild; a thin syrup floating with pleasantly chewy hunks of sugary roots and seeds. Refreshed, the diners leap back onto their bikes and head out again past the great Chinese market, standing in wait of another dawn.

56 | The Word March 2012

BITE-SIZED One of the many dim sum dishes at Hai San

"Visitors to Cholon expecting to find the streets packed with Chinese restaurants are often disappointed, as genuine Hoa dining tends to take place in the shadows of Cholon’s labyrinthine back alleys"

uses the whole bird, carved in a surgical manner and divided into distinct courses. Soup and crunchy slices of roasted meat accompany the main course — brittle layers of duck skin that diners fold into pancakes with short stems of spring onion. Another Cholon dinner restaurant prized for its Chinese culinary rarities is one of the hardest to find. Gia Phu (513/28-30 Duong Gia Phu, Q6), secreted away at the end of an unassuming hem beside the tiny To Cong Temple, is run by 29-year-old master chef A-Sheng, a genius in the Fujian style and one of the best-regarded chefs in the area. Gia Phu’s entire menu is a poetry of Fujian’s finest recipes, but the dishes that regularly reel in the local Chinese are its signature preparations of shark fin soup — in particular, “Buddha Leaps the Wall”. Named here Phat Nhay Tuong (1.2/4.8m), the dish recalls a 1,300-year-old folk tale

THE SWEETEST THING Rows of ingredients to choose from to customise your dessert of choice

March 2012 The Word | 57

MYSTERY DINER

Recently opened, Monsoon restaurant boldly accepts our food critic’s challenge while veteran Baan Thai hopes to continue its reputation of serving good cuisine. How did they both fare? Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Baan Thai

tanding for ‘House of Thai’, the restaurant’s name suggests a cosy and traditional Thai-style interior. However, apart from a smattering of customary Thai artwork and historical ornaments decorating its walls and surfaces, Baan Thai exudes a largely international, generic feel, like a cross between a British sports bar and a retro American diner, thanks to its upholstered red cushioned booths, high benches, mounted flat screen TVs displaying ESPN and darts board. That said, the atmosphere is convivial, with a throng of nine-to-fivers enjoying post-work beers while waiting for their takeaways. We make a beeline for the menu and quickly scout out several typical dishes that any Thai restaurant worth its crust should do well (red curry neua, Thaistyle fish cakes, tom yum kung soup, and som tam salad).

THE PRICES BEEF RED CURRY VND89,000 THAI-STYLE FISH CAKES VND79,000 THAI PAPAYA SALAD VND49,000 TOM YUM KUNG VND89,000

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1 CAO BA NHA, Q1 TEL: 6290 8899

and delightfully de-shelled, while the straw mushrooms are soft and plentiful. The sprinkling of coriander leaves is generous and the citrus of the kaffir limes utterly refreshing. A must-have. Originating from Laos and Isaan in northeastern Thailand, som tham Thai (Thai papaya salad) combines sour lime, hot chilli, salty fish sauce and palm sugar, as well as peanuts and unripe green papaya. I struggle with its pungent taste, however, my Vietnamese partner laps up this central region adaptation of the northeastern delicacy without a problem. For her it’s the best meal of the night. If you’re looking for classic or rustic Thai cuisine in a traditional Thai setting then Baan Thai is not your destination. However, for reasonably priced, international-style Thai cuisine this is a decent option. Their offerings are certainly far better than those sold at a few of the Thai restaurants downtown.

stablished in 2004 in Yangon, Myanmar, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar officially opened its Saigon outlet last month. Specialising in pan-Southeast Asian fare and offering a host of signature dishes from Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Thailand, the restaurant has been beautifully designed in a stunningly revamped French colonial-era villa, located minutes away from the backpacker area. It’s important to point out that at the time of visiting this restaurant and writing this review, Monsoon was still in its ‘soft opening’ phase and its full menu had not yet been made available. By now certain dishes reviewed in this article may have evolved or disappeared while other brand new meals will most certainly have been added to the fold. Still, the sample menu presented to us reveals more than an adequate breadth to gauge the quality of the kitchen. My partner and I plump for one dish from each country, with the exception of Cambodia, which hadn’t appeared on the menu at the time. We start with Thailand and order a plate of phad thai goong sod

THE VERDICT

THE PRICES

55 THAO DIEN, Q2, TEL: 3744 5453

The waitress informs us that though the majority of Baan Thai’s largely western customers predominantly ask for their red curry neua to come with chicken, they recommend it with beef. We oblige and request it medium spice. On reflection, we should have opted for full spice. Served with a portion of steamed rice the curry itself is rather mild and sweet, with large hints of coconut, lemongrass and coriander at the forefront of its amalgamated flavours. Packed with mushrooms, shallots, red (though not hot) chilli peppers and tender beef strips, it’s a tasty, if tame version of an archetypal Thai staple that appears to have been modified to suit western palates — a reflection of Baan Thai’s western-friendly suburban location. The thod muan pla (Thai-style fish cakes) are disappointing. Chewy, soggy and rubbery, each cake is flat, grey and lifeless, tasting like it’s been cooked once and reheated in the microwave. Every bite is as bland as the next and not even the addition of sweet chilli sauce can rescue what should have been a safe bet. Fortunately, the tom yum kung (spicy sweet and sour soup with prawns) is a revelation. Hot and sour, this little beauty packs an almighty kick that tickles the back of your throat in a way the red curry didn’t. The half dozen prawns are thick and fresh

Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon E

8 8 10 FOOD

SERVICE

INTERIOR

BUN THIT NUONG CHA GIO VND69,000 PHAD THAI GOONG SOD VND95,000 LAAB GAI VND55,000 MOHINGA VND85,000

(stir-fried rice noodles tossed with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind juice, red chilli peppers, bean sprouts, scallion and shrimp). It’s fantastic. Accompanied with a side of crushed peanuts, coriander and fresh lime, this meal is a taste sensation, with the sharp zestiness of the squeezed lime juxtaposing the sweetness of the tamarind. It’s also remarkably light on the stomach. We devour it as quickly as possible, each bite seemingly increasing our addiction. Crossing metaphorical borders we return to Vietnam and opt for a Saigonese favourite, bun thit nuong cha gio (vermicelli rice noodles served with grilled marinated pork, fish sauce, julienned daikon radish and carrots, cucumber, coarsely crushed peanuts, mint, fresh herbs and deep fried spring rolls). It’s a decent attempt; the pork is flavoursome with a slightly charred aftertaste, while the fish sauce is sweet and mild. Strangely, the noodles are a bit al dente while the spring rolls are soft, lacking that crunchy deep fried outer shell that usually envelops a plentiful serving of mixed pork and vegetables. Those that order the Laos-style laab gai (tossed minced chicken salad flavoured with roasted rice powder and red chillies among a heap of mint leaves) beware; this unassuming-looking dish will knock your socks off. Served with an assortment of raw vegetables (white cabbage, green beans and cucumber), both my partner and I are taken aback by its surprisingly spicy potency (the fiery burn creeping up well after you’ve swallowed your mouthful). The raw veggies prove a welcome counterpoint, especially

the cucumber, which soothes and refreshes in equal measure. It’s very tasty, but just be prepared! Our final dish is considered by many to be the national dish of Burma, mohinga (hot fish-paste broth served with rice noodles and boiled fish, and garnished with boiled eggs, gourd-fritters, finely chopped coriander leaves and spring onions, among many, many other ingredients). Neither of us is initially enamoured by the rich and salty, porridge-like soup, however, by the end I’m very nearly a believer. The boiled eggs are an acquired taste, though the gourd-fritters and rice noodles help expand a dish that on its own may fail to dazzle. All things considered, Monsoon is already proving itself an impressive addition to this city’s ever-growing international restaurant scene. Attempting to condense an entire region’s culinary traditions under one roof is a bold and ambitious move. Time will tell whether it was also the right one.

THE VERDICT

9.5 13 11 FOOD

SERVICE

INTERIOR

FOOD, DECOR AND SERVICE ARE EACH RATED ON A SCALE OF 0 TO 15 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair WORD REVIEWS ANONYMOUSLY AND PAYS FOR ALL MEALS

March 2012 The Word | 59

WELLNESS

FOREVER YOUNG Kids are constantly told to ‘act their age’, but why are so many adults determined not to look theirs? Stephanie Cantrell asks whether anti-ageing skin treatments help or hinder the natural ageing process. Photo by Charles Barnes

f Brave New World’s many themes, one of the most momentous is Aldous Huxley’s treatment of ageing. Set in London in A.D. 2540, the society’s social engineers have managed to keep their citizens forever young. So, when the protagonist, Bernard, and his girlfriend, Lenina, encounter an old man in the Savage Reservation, Lenina is abhorred. “What’s the matter with him?” whispered Lenina. Her eyes were wide with horror and amazement. “He’s old, that’s all,” Bernard answered as carelessly as he could. He too was startled; but he made an effort to seem unmoved. “Old?” she repeated. “But the Director’s old; lots of people are old; they’re not like that.” When the novel was originally published in 1932, nobody would have guessed that within 50 years anti-ageing treatments would begin to appear and that many of the questions tackled with such insight in this work would become a reality. Together with longer life expectancy it begs the question — is it better to age gracefully, wrinkles and all and let Mother Nature take her path? Or should we do our best to remain forever young?

The Cult of Youth Like Oscar Wilde’s infamous character Dorian Gray, who remains in his twenties due to the portrait that has captured his image as a young man, so the fear of growing old and the desire for perpetual youth has led to a number of well-known celebrities to take action. Best known are the likes of Madonna and Cher, all who have tried to maintain a semblance of their younger selves. As well as plastic surgery, they have taken advantage of a growing number of treatments now available on the market. These range from moisturisers at the supermarket that promise anti-ageing results to chemical peels, non-evasive facelifts and surgery. Botox, the name more commonly

600 | Th TThee Wo W Word rd Ma March arc rch h 20 20122

used for the treatment Botulinum Toxin A, is perhaps the most popular of these methods, with the facial car crashes of many a celebrity splashed all over the tabloids. And now, even in Vietnam, skincare and anti-ageing treatments are catching on. Says Dr Tran Ngoc Si of SIAN Skincare Laser Clinic, so popular are anti-ageing treatments, that it’s not only the middleaged who appear at his clinic, but women as young as 25. He says that many people are cottoning onto the idea of preventative skincare, targeting problem areas before ageing occurs. And yet, surely a preoccupation with youth is narcissistic and self-absorbed? Instead of trying to conquer nature all the time, shouldn’t we just learn to accept the inevitable?

Body Over Mind Yes, there is an issue of vanity, but according to Stamford Medical Clinic’s Dr Mark Siefring, for many people, premature ageing can have a real psychological effect on its victims. He recalls one patient who came to him with a deep furrow between his eyebrows. “People were thinking that he was concerned or angry when actually he felt fine,” explains Dr Siefring. “After the furrow was fixed, it changed how he interacted with the people around him.” Add to this the fact that side effects of surgical treatments are rare and range from allergic reactions to swelling or soreness immediately after the procedure, you have to ask yourself, is there really anything wrong with trying to look young? The key thing, say the specialists, is when it comes to premature ageing. For the purpose of feeling good and increasing self-confidence it is here that skincare and various other treatments can have real benefit. And in reality, the Dorian Gray factor or the utopia illustrated in Brave New World are

purely theoretical. Likewise, the Madonna or Cher scenarios are restricted to the ultra-rich — few have the means or are fixated by the obsession of looking like they are 20 when they are in fact 70. Rather, using the various treatments available to us is part of looking after ourselves and providing a bit more longevity.

Body and Soul But it is not just taking advantage of all the Body Shop skin creams and treatments available at the likes of SIAN and Stamford that are going to keep us young. Our lifestyle also plays its part. “The battle against signs of ageing should be fought within the body,” says Dr Siefring. “Genes play a significant role in how we age. Looking at how our parents and other relatives have aged is often a sign of how we will age, but not necessarily a sure indicator.” Factors such as diet, drinking and smoking have more control over the skin’s ageing process than any cream or balm that promotes anti-ageing properties, even though creams and facials offer moisturising properties, which are also beneficial to the skin thanks to them containing Vitamin A. In addition, while both Dr Si and Dr Siefring agree that some sun exposure is beneficial to the skin’s health, prolonged exposure to UV rays permanently and irreversibly damages the skin, increasing the appearance of ageing. In Vietnam, the sun is particularly harsh — according to the specialists people should use at least a factor 30 broad-spectrum sunscreen and to avoid the sun in the middle of the day when rays are at their strongest. Indeed, there is some sense to the madness to all the covering up Vietnamese women do when they are outdoors. But ultimately, the concept of age and beauty should be left in the eye of the beholder.

March 2012 The Word | 61

Slipping into something comfortable can be the chicest way to survive the uncomfortable heat and frosty whir of the air conditioner. Breathable fabrics, warm neutrals and fine patterns are the staple of any practical yet elegant wardrobe STYLING: JAMES ALLEN PHOTOS: EJ CHUNG MODEL: HIEN PHAM

FASHION

Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;est Chic CARDIGAN | SONG | VND3,848,000

62 | The Word March 2012

CAPRI PANTS | LAM BOUTIQUE | VND1,200,000

LOLA DRESS | ROMYDA KETH | VND3,536,000

March 2012 The Word | 63

SONG: Floor 1, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1

LINDA MAI PHUNG: visit www.lindamaiphung.com for shop locations

LAM BOUTIQUE: 4 My Duc, Nguyen Huu Canh, Q7

TOP | LINDA MAI PHUNG | VND945,000

64 | The Word March 2012

TROUSERS | LAM BOUTIQUE | VND1,500,000

CARDIGAN | SONG | VND4,576,000

ROMYDA KETH, STOCKED AT GAYA: 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 VICKIE DRESS | LINDA MAI PHUNG | SPECIAL ORDER | VND2,430,000

March 2012 The Word | 65

{live in saigon }

LEEROY THORNHILL (THE PRODIGY) Lush, Mar. 3; VND100,000 In what represents a massive coup for Saigon’s live music scene, Leeroy Thornhill, one of the founding members behind UK rave legends The Prodigy, will take to the decks at Lush (2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) on Mar. 3. An integral part of the seminal dance-

punk act up until 2000, Thornhill departed from the Essex group shortly after touring the world in support of the mega-selling The Fat Of The Land album. With his mind set, Thornhill headed off and forged his own career, opening record label Electric Tastebuds, continuing to dabble with music under the names Longman and Flightcrank, and teaming up with DJ Marten Horger to create nu-skool breaks outfit Smash Hifi. Thornhill is also credited with being a major influence on the currently massive Melbourne Shuffle underground rave dance style (check the “Everyday I’m shuffling” line in LMFAO’s Party Rock Anthem) and has become known for dropping unlikely bootlegs and remixes of the likes of Blur and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers into his eclectic DJ sets. Leeroy Thornhill is presented by Russian Standard Vodka. For table reservations, contact Mr De on 0918 630742. Doors open from 9pm

RSD Vasco’s, Mar. 17; VND100,000 RSD, perhaps better known as Bristol drum & bass stalwart Rob Smith (one half of respected production duo Smith and Mighty), returns to Vasco’s (74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Mar. 17 with more bass heavy rhythms. Under the moniker RSD, Rob Smith produces innovative bass music that simultaneously pays dues to his deep sound system roots and pushes the envelope further. He remains at the forefront of Bristol’s endlessly inventive music scene, with a staggering discography and a range of projects encompassing dub, drum & bass, 2-step and dubstep. With his finger squarely on the bass pulse, Rob Smith has released on respected labels including Punch Drunk, Earwax and Tectonic

KUEDO & ONRA Vasco’s, Mar. 3; VND100,000 Following a brief hiatus over the extended holiday period, The Beats Saigon comes racing out the blocks in 2012 with a doubleheader at Vasco’s (74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) on Mar. 3 courtesy of Kuedo and Onra. Making his name as part of the acclaimed duo Vex’d, whose brutal take on dubstep helped define it in its infancy, Jamie Teasdale’s re-invention under his Kuedo moniker is nothing short of breath taking. His sets, both as a DJ and live, also reflect his wildly diverse range of influences

66 | The Word March 2012

with a sound typified by heavy soundsystemtesting sub-lines and junglist dub breaks. RSD is presented by The Beats Saigon. Doors open from 9pm and inspirations. Hard Atlanta rap instruments and fervent footwork sit side by side with 80’s synth soundtracks, quasi disco and all manner of noises. With a style heavily rooted in the J DIlla moulding, Viet-French DJ and producer Onra samples classic jazz, soul and funk cuts and gels them together with 80s-style synthesizers, funky breaks and Pete Rockesque bangers. The result is both familiar and bizarre with his glitch instrumental beat chopping keeping even the most ardent hiphop heads guessing what they’ve heard. Kuedo & Onra is presented by The Beats Saigon. Doors from 9pm

FRANCK AMSALLEM IDECAF, Mar. 10; VND100,000 Celebrated jazz musician Franck Amsallem will perform at IDECAF (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1) on Mar. 10. Amsallem has released eight CDs under his name, and after 20 years living in New York, he’s worked with some of the greatest names in jazz and beyond, including Gerry Mulligan, Charles Lloyd and Joshua Redman, as well as Maria Schneider and Harry Belafonte. Among Amsallem’s achievements, in 1992 he won second prize at the Jacksonville Great American Jazz Piano Competition, he has performed in many of the big festivals, from European to South America, Africa and Asia, conducted the WDR and written for the National Jazz Orchestra of France, the Mel Lewis Jazz Orchestra, and several symphony orchestras. Franck Amsallem is presented by The Antenna in Ho Chi Minh City of the French Institute in Vietnam and IDECAF. Tickets on sale at IDECAF. Students receive a 50 percent discount. The concert begins at 8pm

City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 068 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 076 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 087 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 104 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 110 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 118 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 126 PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

A D D IT ION A L F EATUR ES

Destination Zero 078 Travel Promos 082 Foodie Corner 092 Cafe Critique 098 Food Promos 100 Vietnam Top 10 104 For The Record 105 Road Rules 106 Decks 'n' Drums 108 In The Frame 109

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 068 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 068 BUSINESS CONSULTING 069 BUSINESS GROUPS 070 CONSUMER GIFTS 070 EVENT MANAGEMENT 070 EXPAT SERVICES 071 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 071 INSURANCE 071 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 072

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

business KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 072 LAUNDRY 072 LEGAL SERVICES 072 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 072 MARKET RESEARCH 073 PUBLIC RELATIONS 073 RECRUITMENT & HR 074 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 074 SERVICED APARTMENTS 074

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international

consumer and corporate companies. Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING 1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

XONE FM

GRANT THORNTON

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

PURPLE ASIA

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn An independent, full–service branding and marketing agency focused on communications and brand building. The team, established in Vietnam for many years, is a blend of international expertise and local know–how capable of giving marketers clever ways to connect their brands with consumers for winning results.

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM

ROUSE

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

CONCETTI

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

ERNST & YOUNG

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1. Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3824 5315. www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED

RIVER ORCHID

TBWA\VIETNAM

INSPIRED IMAGE

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

OGILVY & MATHER

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PHIBIOUS

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1. Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank. 8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions. 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1. Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term

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business strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

business AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A busi-

ness and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS

venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 140B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valua-

70 | The Word March 2012

tion and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205. www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

IF CONSULTING

THE NEST

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property,

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

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business

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 Tel: 3827 7991 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON

VUS

BAKER & MCKENZIE

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

G&H

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4 Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY 203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1 Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED)

ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 / 0917 277169 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provide Vietnamese language training by experienced qualified teachers and certified/notarized translation by experts for various materials and documents, from a page to a book.

LEGAL SERVICES Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

FRASERS INTERNATIONAL LAWYERS Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

NIELSEN

TNS VIETNAM 105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and

Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include brand-

www.alliedpickfords.com

PRUDENTIAL

business classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

Call us for a survey and quotation Hanoi: Matthew Collier M: +84 976 750 644 T: +84 4 6275 2824 - matthew.collier@alliedpickfords.com.vn HCMC: Kevin Hamilton M: +84 122 514 1848 T: +84 8 3823 3454 - kevin.hamilton@alliedpickfords.com.vn

liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

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business ing, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

Assistance in applying for a work permit, including reimbursement of some costs

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (FORMALLY WATSON WYATT AND SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS 2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

RESIDENT VIETNAM

CITYVIEW

SEDONA SUITES

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a toprated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED 7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

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destination

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LISTINGS

DALAT 076 HANOI 077 AROUND HANOI 079 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 079 HCMC DELUXE 080 HCMC MID-RANGE 081 HCMC BUDGET 082 HOI AN & DA NANG 082 HUE & QUANG BINH 084 NHA TRANG 084 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 085

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHU QUOC 085 SAPA 086 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 086 TRAVEL SERVICES 086

guestrooms are basic but provide free Wi-Fi. A single room without breakfast barely dents the wallet at VND20,000 per night, while a double room is charged at VND250,000. Add breakfast and the rates are slightly higher. A coffee shop is located on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre. Guests also enjoy a 10 percent discount at V Café.

DALAT PALACE

DREAMS HOTEL BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match. CREDIT

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$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

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$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, the Dalat Green City Hotel is a no-frills budget option. Newly refurbished, the 12

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat. Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

ARTICES DESTINATION ZERO 078 TRAVEL NOTES 080 TRAVEL PROMOS 082

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat. Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

PRICE RANGE

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI $$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town. CREDIT

BELOW VND630,000

FRASER SUITES

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

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GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

HANOI

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GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite. CREDIT

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this

SOFITEL METROPOLE

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm,

Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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DESTINATION

ZERO

destination where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

ALONE IN THE ISLANDS Roz Plotzker explains why a solitary expedition to the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia is the way to go

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal. CREDIT

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home

to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night.

Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh. Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5 ,Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, CREDIT

Joseph’s Hotel “I’m headed to the jetty if you need a ride.” [What jetty?] “Sure.” “Great. Throw your luggage in the trunk.” If you stumbled off a plane at 7am — alone, sleep deprived, hungry, in an unfamiliar airport, in a town you knew nothing about — you would probably take a ride with a middle-aged woman to a jetty too… She was a blonde Canadian, my mother’s age. She was missing a molar. The void it left behind peeked out from the right corner of her mouth. She wore a long bright yellow and orange Malaysian dress, offset by a deep teal silk scarf that covered her shoulders. She taught English in a village one hour outside of Kota Bharu, and if the taxi driver didn’t hurry she would be late for her first class. She had travelled the world on her own. She made sure to tell me all about it — and by the time we got to the jetty I wanted to be a like her a little bit. Anyone who has travelled alone understands the differences from touring with a partner. A fellow traveller can be an anchor and the social scaffolding for an adventure. But, for this trip, I decided to explore Malaysia unanchored and without

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much of a framework for company. The pair of Perhentian Islands is the pearl of the oyster that is Malaysia. And, apparently in January this proverbial shellfish is closed tight, as are the islands’ businesses due to the rainy season. Had it not been for my Canadian fairy godmother, I never would have ventured to the jetty, and then naturally onto a boat. It sped for 45 minutes toward Kici — the smaller of the two islands. The boat periodically launched itself over swells of seawater. Airborne, I gasped as it landed on what could have been concrete.

Here on the Island Then the island appeared on the horizon. It grew quickly until it was a fully developed mass of paradise. It consists of a jungle sandwiched between two miraculous strips of sand — one on the east and one on the west. These twin coastlines are connected to each other by a narrow brick path that navigates from one end of the jungle to the other. The western beach is dotted with bungalows and has a white and blue luxury resort on the northern edge. The eastern beach has better water for swimming, but its bungalows were still closed for the winter.

After we disembarked, I wandered from the boat into a shady patch of trees. Six newly built bungalows were lined up like soldiers in blue and yellow uniforms, standing empty. I picked the first one, paid a woman who was feeding an infant, and went to my bed where I fell asleep immediately. I lived a hermitic existence that day, most of which was spent reading in my bungalow, and swimming on a closed beach. I tried meditating. The fish was delicious and the sunset was beautiful. Perhaps travelling solo — anchorless allows us to be more aware of what we are looking for, and also what we are looking at.

Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Information The Perhentian Islands are off the east coast of West Malaysia. They can be reached by flying to Kuala Lumpur then either taking a bus or an Air Asia / Air Malaysia flight to Kota Bharu. Boats to the islands leave from Kuala Besut jetty and cost from RM40 (VND275,000) return. For more information go to: www.perhentian.com.my www.perhentianguide.com www.perhentianisland.info

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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destination and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

PARK HYATT

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY TIM RUSSELL

Coming Back A recent post from travel blogger Matt Kepnes on Huffington Post, Why I’ll Never Return to Vietnam, created quite a stir here when it was published last month. And while the whingeing, self-pitying tone and clear lack of pre-trip research are not what one would expect from such a popular travel writer, Kepnes’ experiences are sadly typical of many tourists who come to Vietnam, and help explain the country’s pitiful five percent return visitor rate. Thankfully the blog has attracted a lot of coverage in the Vietnamese media and led to a lot of soul-searching. Now widely being discussed, the mistreatment of tourists is no longer the elephant in the room, and I hope that this new awareness will lead to a muchneeded change in attitude. Time, I feel, to push the negativity to one side and look at the positive side of Vietnam — via the power of Facebook, I harvested the opinions of local residents, both expats and Vietnamese, to find out what they like most about Vietnam. VIETNAM, THIS IS WHAT I LOVE ABOUT YOU: Nice weather, less tax, good people. — Quentin The Vietnamese are endlessly optimistic. They can bear almost anything and continue to believe tomorrow will be a better day. — Jake The FOOD! — Jase Love the food, good, friendly and warm people, pretty country with lots of history, and is full of business opportunities. — Ravi The Vietnamese are generally a happy entrepreneurial bunch, good

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s CREDIT

business opportunities, great weather, affordable to eat out and enjoy life outside my apartment. — Anders Ca phe sua da — Mike It’s never, ever boring. Every single day you’d come home and have at least one story that started ‘you’ll never guess what I saw today…’ The fact that, no matter how you feel about the place, the majority of foreigners living there experience a quality of life that is better than in their own country. — Rachel Their ability to STOP work or whatever to have a coffee break and relax for however long they like. So envious of that attitude and way of life. Wish more western countries were like that. — Chad You can order anything to be delivered to your house. — Linh The absolutely amazing, high energy vibrant street life. — Robert Free Wi-Fi everywhere. Only realised how great it is until I went home for Christmas. — Dani After 17 years, I still love and am amazed at the smiles, the free smiles, the real smiles, how easily they come. — Tom Being welcomed anywhere. I’ve shown up unannounced at people’s houses, at funerals, in pagodas and been welcomed in and fed well. — Helen For the first time this generation is able to live the life that virtually all of their ancestors dreamed of, independent, free, and happily, and the result is the warmth, friendliness and generosity that all of us here have experienced from the average Vietnamese. That’s what I appreciate the most about the place. — Paul How about you?

plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best–regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. CREDIT

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

WINDSOR PLAZA

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000 www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in

Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

HCMC DELUXE CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

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destination

travel Promos CARAVELLE Caravelle is offering a deluxe room promotion from VND4,240,000++ (single) to VND4,670,000++ (double). The offer is valid until Jun. 30 and includes an airport pickup, free buffet breakfast and complimentary internet. For more info, visit www. caravellehotel.com PARK HYATT Park Hyatt has an exclusive offer designed for local residents. Come and stay Friday or Saturday night in a luxurious Park room and treat yourself to a range of benefits such as daily breakfast for two in Opera, a complimentary 60-minute spa treatment, 10 percent off spa products and 20 percent off food and beverages. Rates start from VND5,460,000++ per night, and the offer is valid until the end of September. Available until the end of March, take advantage of a 40

percent discount off any facial or skin treatment. Highlights include the signature Xuan Fresh Facial, Age Recovery Collagen and the Men’s Renewal Facial. For more info, visit www.saigon. park.hyatt.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG Rejuvenate yourself at Vous spa with a combination of Sesame Seed Body Scrub to moisturise and nourish your skin, followed by a natural Rendez-Vous Facial and a manicure and pedicure. This package is valid from Mar. 1 to Mar. 31 for VND1,600,000. For more info, visit www. novotel-nhatrang.com VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORTS The resort is offering several packages this summer — room only summer promo (code RO) offers accommodation in a garden view room with breakfast for two (VND1.8 million++/night); room and spa summer promo

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

See more at wordhcmc.com

(code SP) offers a garden view room including breakfast for two and one hour of spa treatment for two/day/room (VND2.9 million); half board summer promo (code HB) offers a garden view room including breakfast for two, one hour spa treatment for two/day/room and one set lunch or dinner for two per day; and a full board summer deal (code FB) that is similar to the HB deal but also includes healthy snacks and two pieces of laundry/day/room. The resort also has two golf packages, one priced at VND12.7 million++/room/ five nights and the other priced at VND14.8 million++/room/seven nights (last night free of charge). The packages include one-time 18 holes golf for two at Sealinks, among others. The summer promotions are valid from May 5 to Oct. 31. For more info, visit www. victoriahotels-asia.com

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

DUNA HOTEL

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$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA

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$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

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$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

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AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330. www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488. www.evaair.com

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village. CREDIT

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar. CREDIT

HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

BIKE RENTALS

JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098. www.vn.jal.com

LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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HUE & QUANG BINH

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter. NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up. SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh, Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion. CREDIT

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP $ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town. CREDIT

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

COCO BEACH

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777 www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995. CREDIT

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

SHADES APARTMENTS $$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options. CREDIT

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

PHU QUOC BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French–Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with CREDIT

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara–nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private

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destination first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

LA VERANDA $$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully–designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach. CREDIT

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid–back and simple. And cheap.

ing and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

GRAND HOTEL

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City. The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools. CREDIT

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

REX HOTEL

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SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau. Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO

TRAVEL SERVICES

VICTORIA SAPA

CREDIT

BINH AN VILLAGE

CREDIT

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine din-

86 | The Word March 2012

CREDIT

ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM 195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO 64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113. pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services,

including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC 60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

KIM TRAVEL 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 087 CAFES 088 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 089 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 090 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 090 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 091 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 094 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 095

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS 2 LAM SON TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

AMBER ROOM

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

TERRAVERDE

AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE

ONE WORLD

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also

ICONS 101

TU TRANG TRAVEL

AIRCONDITIONING

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 096 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 096 RESTOBARS 098 ARTICLES FOODIE CORNER 092 CAFE CRITIQUE 098 FOOD PROMOS 100 possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

APOCALYPSE NOW MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

BLUE GECKO

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

FUSE TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily,

out & about

especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GOSSIP HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

LAVISH

DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

88 | The Word March 2012

LUSH

VASCO’S

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

OCEAN CLUB

VELVET

TECHNO / VIETNAMESE POP Nha Rong Port Area, 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 6269 6999. www.oceanclub.com.vn/club 9pm to late Following the demise of the now nearmythical Starwars, Ocean Club has filled the void with a sensory overload of neon lighting, outlandish décor and a booming soundsystem that tests the limitations of what the human can take. A couple of thousand people can easily squeeze into the huge club hall with dozens of tables, booths and VIP areas dotted throughout. The solar system print on the ceiling and futuristic designs will have your eyes darting every which way whilst a relentless playlist of trance, techno and house is mixed by Vietnamese DJs. Then there’s the live Vietnamese music, too. Make sure to dress the part for the catwalk, this is Vietnamese clubbing at its most contemporary and luxurious.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan. Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large

selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE

CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com WIFI DEL 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends. Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbuckslike work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends.

CITY GARDEN

L’USINE

INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

I’M YOURS

PETITE NOTE

MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place

MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

GLORIA JEAN’S

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

UP CAFE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE

STELLA CAFFE ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the ever-expanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and

March 2012 The Word | 89

out & about the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, familyfriendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon

de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, two-storey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN

TOP-END

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

LA CAMARGUE

THE PUNJABI

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE

DELIVERY

BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

TANDOOR

NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this

pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family.

ZERO RESTAURANT & BAR

+ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 15 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 4593 www.zerorestaurant.com AC WIFI NS HH LM 10am to midnight A great place to while away several hours eating and drinking some of Saigon’s newest cuisine together with international wines, Zero is a boutique and intimate restaurant and bar. The food is varied and includes western and Vietnamese breakfasts, and lunches boast perennial favourites like burgers, fish n chips, 4 n 20 Aussie meat pies and some tasty local fare, all prepared with a twist. Daily happy hour from 3pm to 7pm.

coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photog-

Cafe fare made with American flair

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eyecatching cream and green-tiled decor. Good

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower 169a De Tham @ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

90 | The Word March 2012

out & about raphy cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

foodie CORNER

IMPERIAL RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russian-run venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

Fuse and be Done By

SEARCH FOR A CONNECTION between South America and Japan, and you’re likely to end up at Alberto Fujimori, the former and now disgraced President of Peru. Delve deeper, though, and you’ll discover that the largest overseas Japanese population is in Brazil, mainly in Sao Paolo. 1.5 million people-strong, the cuisine has followed. It has fused, too, with the flavours of the land. And it is this theme that the middlefloor restaurant in Blanchy’s Tash is trying to bring to Saigon. Headed up by former Londonbased Nobu chef, Australian-born Martin Brito, the menu strikes both a familiar and unfamiliar chord. Familiar, in that the influences of Nobu Matsuhisa, a restaurateur of worldwide acclaim, are a clear addition

92 | The Word March 2012

to the menu. As Martin himself admits, when it comes to all things cuisine, the celebrity chef is one of his main influences. And yet, it is unfamiliar, too, in that this is the first time such a bold fusion of tastes, spices and cooking styles have been seen in this city. To Martin, though, it’s not so bold. “The cuisines really match,” he explains. “In both types of cooking there’s lots of citrus and chilli. The Japanese are also into different types of vinegars, which merges well, too. There are lots of other similarities as well.” Take the chilled ceviche, for example, a dish emanating from Northern Chile and Peru. Constructed with mixed seafood, cucumber, red onion, coriander and lots of citrus, the South American side of the equation is in the ingredients, while the Japanese factor comes with the dressing, which is made with ginger, garlic, soya and chilli paste. Yet, the sea bass tiradito is assembled in quite the opposite way. The sea bass sashimi covered with yuzu lime dressing is 100 percent Japanese. Add the ricotto, a Peruvian chilli paste made from rococo chilli, and finish with Hawaiian volcanic black salt, and you have the South American twist. The final dish is sensational.

A DIFFERENT FORMAT With swathes of imported ingredients, the cost of these creative constructions doesn’t come cheap. The truffles in the sauce that comes with the Wagyu beef, for example, are flown in from Italy. The beef is from Australia. And yet, prices are far from prohibitive. Dishes start at just under VND300,000 and rise, depending on the cost of the ingredients. In addition, forget the traditional dining format we’re used to in the west. As Martin says, “The format is not starters and mains. It’s family-style. It all comes out and everyone shares it together.” But, for the maestro on the stoves, the key thing is not that “the food is quite unique to the city.” It’s the adventure. “I just want to come down here and be successful,” he says. “After six-and-a-half years at Nobu, this is a new adventure for me. I’m in a new city on a new continent, and Asia feels like the place to be right now.” Blanchy’s Tash is at 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. The new menu was launched at the end of February.

KITA RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

PIZZA 4P’S

from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

SNAP CAFE INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

WARDA

REFINERY

ZOOM CAFÉ

FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli. AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

MID TO TOP BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafront-style restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australian-themed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

CHARNER CAFÉ EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1. Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the wellknown Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1. Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta

and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

SKEWERS

A Taste of Authenticity

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

ZANZBAR

INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about

AN PHU

CORSO

PARKVIEW

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

EL GAUCHO BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. BUDDHA BAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2 A large screen TV is the focus of this joint. The décor is pleasant and the menu draws from across Asia. CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery. GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer. GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

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WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270–degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfortspared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with panwestern cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

JAVA PAN-MEDITERRANEAN 38 Dong Du, Q1. Tel: 3823 0187 7.30am to 11.30pm A modish, brown and grey contemporary cafe venue selling Italian-influenced, pan-Mediterranean cuisine. Think ricotta pancakes, bruschettas, Roman salads, creative open cut sandwiches, linguine, risotto, pesto dishes and gourmet pizzas mains and you get the idea. Portions are big, too. Then of course are the excellent, health-conscious smoothies, good coffee and a great upstairs lounge area to boot.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded

by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

MID TO TOP BASILICO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bambooclad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching

Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared

out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets. GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away. JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier. LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes. LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house. NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café. OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality. ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar. PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day. TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166

out & about by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candlelit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNG

YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that

96 | The Word March 2012

merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1 Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

NATHALIE'S PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ 42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232 www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1. Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh

xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak. Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

BO NE LE HONG STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deep-fried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience

takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asianstyle, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinh-branded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

www.alibi.vn 5a Nguyen Sieu ±Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 38 25 62 57

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

Rendez-vous? Alibi MEET - DRINK - EAT

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid

March 2012 The Word | 97

TEMPLE CLUB

{cafe CRITIQUE}

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB

COFFEE CUP Bordering District 1 and District 3, Coffee Cup offers a cool respite from the bustling traffic of central Ho Chi Minh City. Spread over three levels, the bar is located on a mezzanine that looks over the lower floor of the café. Up on the next floor is a spacious area with a stage that houses a band seven days a week from 8.30pm to 11pm. The interior is warm and elegant, with gold mirrors and deep browns, reds and russet gold furniture and curtains. The staff are attentive, yet unobtrusive — a rarity in Vietnam. Outside, a balcony area provides a perfect vantage point to stare out over the architectural abstraction, Turtle Lake (Ho Con Rua). The lake is a popular nighttime spot for young lovers’ trysts and Coffee Cup’s location is perfect for people watching while sipping a smoothie or juice.

PHOTOS BY EJ CHUNG

IT DOES A BODY GOOD The menu offers a selection of Vietnamese food such as rice

hot pot and crab meat noodle soup. There’s also a good selection of western staples such as burgers, sandwiches and pasta. The prices are reasonable, ranging from VND70,000 to VND180,000. An extensive tea and coffee list offers mountains of choices such as caramel latte and ginger tea. There’s also a generous selection of juices and smoothies priced at about VND75,000. The best part of the menu has to be the ‘healthy juice’ option. A list of juice combinations is accompanied by helpful comments on the benefits that each particular drink provides for the body. The honeydew, grape and watermelon juice promises to strengthen the immune system, while the papaya, pineapple and milk concoction boasts skin boosting qualities. Popular with young Vietnamese professionals, Coffee Cup is a great spot to relax, unwind and watch the city go by outside. Coffee Cup is located at 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q1

THE DRINK: 3.5/5

98 | The Word March 2012

AMBIENCE: 4/5

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces. For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 AC WIFI NS DEL 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building

is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist. Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

RESTOBARS ALA MEZON

10 Chu Minh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6291 0447 alamezon.vn@gmail.com 11.30am to 1am A restobar where France meets Japan, this innovative and bold four-floor venue mixes Gallic flair with all the nuances of the Land of the Rising Sun. With lime green in the stairwells, maroon on the ground floor and orange moving up to the subtly lit top-floor terrace, the bar areas and dining spaces are complemented by two games rooms for playing board games, Wii and X-Box. The menu encompasses the same eclectic mix, with ika kappa maki sitting next to baked clams gratinee and beef carpaccio. A bit of something for everyone.

ALLEZ BOO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboo-style décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the latenight party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

ALIBI

INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious, slightly gentrified restobar in An Phu on

food Promos style

CARAVELLE Celebrate Women’s Day on Mar. 8 with a dinner buffet at Nineteen that will include an extensive spread of entrees, salads, seafood and cheeses. A white chocolate fountain and cherry jubilee station will also be available. Priced at VND1,013,000++/pax. From Mar. 8 to Mar. 16, Reflections is serving grilled US beef tenderloin, rib eye and Black Angus beef strip loin and more as part of their week-long US beef promotion. Prices range from VND450,000 to VND990,000 for 150g to 350g cuts. Steaks are cooked to order and come with a choice of two side dishes. From Mar. 12 to Mar. 18, the Lobby Lounge is preparing eight and 16-piece takeaway boxes of egg tarts warm from Chef Chay’s oven. The traditional Chinese treats are priced at VND418,000/ box of 8 and VND638,000/ box of 16. From Mar. 15 to Mar. 21, guests at the hotel’s rooftop bar can sample live, ocean-catch seafood on ice, including Nha Trang lobster, fresh chucked oysters and more. Priced at VND880,000++ for two pax. The hotel is celebrating the end of every month with a Cuban-themed Carnival Party at Saigon Saigon Bar. Starting at 9pm on the last Saturday of every month, the rooftop will reinvent South America’s popular street festival with cocktails, spirited samba dancers in costume and non-stop music from Cuban bands — Luna Negra and Warapo. For more info, visit www. caravellehotel.com VINO Kick start the weekend with Peroni Fridays. Priced at VND50,000 between 4pm to 6pm, this cool Italian lager will help you create the perfect beginning to your weekend. Follow up with a tapas dinner and a great bottle of wine. For more info, visit www.vinovietnam.com

LA HABANA This Cuban-themed restaurant and bar is now running a lunch promotion with an Asian Lunch Special starting from VND75,000 and a set lunch priced at VND180,000. The offer includes a complimentary drink. For more info, visit www.lahabanasaigon.com MEKONG MERCHANT Celebrate Women’s Day on Mar. 8 and Mother’s Day on Mar. 18 at this District 2 mainstay with 50 percent off cocktails for ladies and a special gift. For more info, visit www. mekongmerchant.com NEW WORLD New World is offering a Crustacean Delights Promotion this month at Dynasty from Mar. 9 to Mar. 22. Dishes include fresh lobster, blue river shrimps, tiger prawns and more. Chef Ho Wing Sang has also created a six-course crustacean and shellfish set menu featuring sea snails, blue river shrimps and crab priced at VND600,000 per person. For more info, visit www.saigon. newworldhotels.com PARK HYATT Park Hyatt is partnering with French wine producer, Château d’Yquem, for an exclusive culinary and wine event on Mar. 7. Enjoy a six-course savoury menu to complement four different vintage wines on offer. Renaud Ruer, the brand ambassador, will be on hand to provide tasting notes and further info. Dinner starts at 7pm and is priced at VND6,300,000++/pax. The hotel will present Park Hyatt Masters from Dalat from Mar. 23 to Mar. 25. Day 1 is Artisanal Cheeses and Highland Wines priced at VND880,000++/pax. Day 2 is Coffee and Confections for VND660,000++/

out & about See more at wordhcmc.com pax and includes a lesson from an expert barista on different coffee creations. Day 3 is Blooms and Bruts priced at VND 1,100,000++/pax. Learn to arrange stunning bouquets with fresh Dalat blooms, while tasting champagnes. For those who love seafood, catch the Dover sole in Square One, prepared in Vietnamese and western styles. Priced at VND1,200,000++/pax. In Opera, enjoy a baked to order pizza with a variety of toppings that reflect regional tastes from around the world. For more info, visit www. restaurants.parkhyattsaigon.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE Enjoy a Seafood Extravaganza at Riverside Café with an array of dishes from fresh oysters to mussels, and more. Priced at VND640,000++/pax (food only) and VND840,000++/pax (including free flow of red or white wine, beer and soft drinks). Poolside Barefoot BBQ from 6pm on Fridays. Enjoy live music and free flow wine, beer and soft drinks. Priced at VND740,000++/pax. Enjoy Sunday Brunch at Riverside Café with a variety of appetisers, an array of seafood and desserts. VND640,000++/pax (food only) and VND840,000++/pax (including free flow of red or white wine, beer and soft drinks). For more info, visit www.marriott. com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG On Mar. 8 from 6pm to10pm, 50 percent discount for ladies when ordering any drink at lobby bar. Square Restaurant will also have a buffet dinner with a selection of seafood BBQ, New Zealand lamb leg, salad, sushi, pasta, French dessert and more. Priced at VND420,000++/pax. For more info, visit www.novotelnhatrang.com

the banks of Saigon’s largest waterway. The cuisine here ranges from small plates through to salads, sandwiches (from VND95,000), premium burgers (from VND195,000), pizza, pasta, pan-Asian, seafood dishes and steaks (VND450,000 for the Australian premium rib-eye). Has an international wine list and Sunday afternoons play host to live music and the occasional mini festival.

only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering spectacular views of Ho Chi Minh City, Chill is located on the rooftop of A&B Tower in downtown District 1. DJ Kenzo Trinh provides a playlist of ambient dance tunes and up-tempo lounge tracks, while the open kitchen, headed up by chefs from Japan, Australia, Thailand and Vietnam, serves a mix of contemporary international and Asian cuisine. Signature drinks aplenty can also be ordered from the bar. Be sure to dress well as Chill operates a no shorts and no sandals dress code policy.

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

CHILL SKYBAR

CRAZY BUFFALO

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

FIGARO

ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS 28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central

European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the wellknown Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a bar-like Australian sports atmosphere. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers.

KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423 www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts

La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-run Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily AC WIFI The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

BUDDHA BAR

INTERNATIONAL 7 Thao Dien, Q2 3pm to 12am daily Tucked away in An Phu, this long-standing establishment provides great food and drinks at reasonable prices. With a long bar, pool table, darts, live sports, good music, and friendly staff, it’s easy to relax and have a good time. A variety of cuisine is offered, from beef pies and burgers to beef tenderloin, spare ribs and Swiss-style fondue. Quiz night on Wednesdays, ladies night on Tuesdays and live music every first Friday of the month.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the

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March 2012 The Word | 101

out & about

in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MOGAMBO PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

MY PLACE

195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

O BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this

102 | The Word March 2012

well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

PEACHES

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

PHATTY’S

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

QING

WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, boothlike, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celtic-themed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the

best home–style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for

the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

TRADERS

NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known

downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

March 2012 The Word | 103

out & about

vietnam top 10 SOUND & VISION

01 02 03 04 05 06 07

CO KHI NAO ROI XA

08 09 10

NOI CON TIM BINH YEN

BICH PHUONG LAST WEEK:

TIM LAI BAU TROI TUAN HUNG LAST WEEK:

ARTS CLASSES 104 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 104 GALLERIES 104 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 105 PERFORMING ARTS 109 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 109

ARTS CLASSES

NGUOI HAT TINH CA UYEN LINH LAST WEEK: 2

KHI RA DI THUY TRANG LAST WEEK:

LISTINGS

BETTER DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS www.BDPworkshops.com 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780, www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

I'M LAVY PHUONG VY NEW ENTRY

NHU LA CON GIO LA TU VI

LAST WEEK: 6

LAC LOI

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN’S SPACE

HA ANH TUAN LAST WEEK: 9

X5 BAND

4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

BOOKS & MAGAZINES

LAST WEEK: 8

ARTBOOK

HAT CHO MUA TINH YEU HOANG BACH & VARIOUS ARTISTS NEW ENTRY

MOT PHUT GIAY KHAC HO NGOC HA ft THANH BUI NEW ENTRY

WEEK ENDING FEBRUARY 22, 2012

104 | The Word March 2012

43 Dong Khoi , Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English,

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

ARTICLES VIETNAM TOP 10 104 FOR THE RECORD 105 ROAD RULES 106 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 108 IN THE FRAME 109 French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second–hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps. Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer

reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICULAR GALLERY Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of

promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

for the record

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

WE ARE P.A.K. P.A.K. is the alter-ego of Vietnamese pop singer Pham Anh Khoa. He has several albums under the PAK moniker, but P.A.K. is a new venture and We Are P.A.K. appears to be the group's first album. The eight tracked CD features six songs in Vietnamese and two in English. The songs range in scope from the tender, soulful Bo Cong Anh (Dandelion) to the driving, distortion-tinged Thu. Thang's guitar is technically masterful with wailing, rock solos and a sweetly understated funkiness that pervades the entirety of the album. He knows when to make his playing the focus and he knows when to let PAK's voice take center stage, a rare talent with lead guitarists. Bao's bass playing shines on Thu and on the final (bonus) track, Why. My's drumming is spot-on and he hits harder than hell, but demonstrates a capacity for restraint when necessary. USE YOUR ILLUSION PAK's vocals are consistently gritty and genuine without trying too hard or coming off as derivative. If one wanted to make a comparison, the album sounds similar to Guns N' Roses circa 1990. Curtis King's harmonica wails on Why and

lends even more weight to the G N’ R association, and particularly salient is the degree to which the lead singer’s vocal range and passion match that of an early Axl Rose. He is willing to take his voice into screaming metal territory, which is not a common trait on the Viet-pop scene. There are several highlights on the album, particularly the ear-capturing Thu. The song combines several elements of traditional Asian folk music with ballad, western distorted guitar. The end effect is a soaring, reverb love song that sounds both sad and triumphant. The English songs are both strong, though they lack the nativeEnglish lyrical sophistication that one might desire as a companion to the kick-ass instrumentals and harmonica riffs. All this said, the strongest offering on We Are P.A.K. is two tracks in and called Cay Da, a definite stand-out and more than justifies the purchase of the entire album (though the entire album justifies the purchase of the entire album). It's what Bob Marley and James Hetfield's musical love-child would sound like. Cay Da is, in a word, awesome. — Charles Barnes

March 2012 The Word | 105

sound & vision

road

BAR BUI 39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3. Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

Rules

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

Pat Joynt has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your scooter or motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

HEY PAT, CAN YOU LEGALLY OWN A MOTORBIKE IN VIETNAM IF YOU ARE A FOREIGNER? MY FRIEND BOUGHT A NEW ONE AND IT HAD TO BE REGISTERED IN HIS VIETNAMESE GIRLFRIEND'S NAME. I DON'T HAVE A GIRLFRIEND, WHAT SHOULD I DO ABOUT IT (THE BIKE, NOT THE GIRLFRIEND)? This is a bit of a mine field as the law is constantly changing. My advice would be way easier to get a girlfriend! For those who want to battle on here is the procedure for a Ho Chi Minh City application. Please note other areas differ, particularly in Hanoi. 1) Make sure you obtain a VAT invoice from the company where the new bike is purchased 2) Also needed is a Quality Assurance certificate also supplied by the seller. This states the new bike has been tested and approved for use in Vietnam 3) A valid passport 4) A current work permit 5) OR a current resident card issued at least one year before

106 | The Word March 2012

All the above paperwork then needs to be taken to the District Tax Agency to pay the new registration tax. Following this you will be issued with a tax payment statement. All the above paperwork must then be submitted to your District Vehicle Registration office who will issue the new number plate and ownership paper. The new number plate will consist of three sections: 1) “NN” Showing foreigner ownership 2) “XXX” stating the nationality of the registered keeper 3) A sequence of five numbers HEY PAT, WHAT IS THE BEST MOTORBIKE TO BUY THAT CAN BE RIDDEN ON MOST TERRAINS — DIRT ROADS, TARMAC, ON HARD SAND AND ROUGH, UNEVEN ROADS. I DON'T WANT TO SPEND A LOT, ANYTHING AROUND VND20 MILLION? With a limited budget probably one of the all around best bikes would be the Yamaha Nuovo LX

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

METALLIC BAR

57H Tu Xuong, Q3. Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3. Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues. Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

CARMEN

NAPOLY BAR

CACOPHONY

135cc 2008/9 Model and these can be picked up for around the VND20 million mark. They’ve a bullet proof four-stroke SOHC engine, good ground clearance, electric start with a backup kick start, front disc brake, telescopic forks and fully auto transmission for cruising around town or good for the highway with a top speed of over 100kmph but more comfortable cruising at about 70/80kmph making it a good touring bike as well as ideal for the city. If you hit any problems they’re also a well-known bike in Vietnam and they’re familiar to most mechanics as the first Nuovos came into Vietnam in 2004. I also stumbled on a Bajaj 250cc last month for just over VND20 million, but the bike was in bad condition and without paperwork, which is a risk these days. For something half decent in the 250cc off road category expect prices to start from VND50 million. Do you have questions related to motorbikes? Email them to Pat Joynt on roadrules@wordhcmc.com

hip-hop DJs also performing every night from 9pm to 2am.

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3 Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian

city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

NIGHTSPOT 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm to midnight (weekdays). Open late on weekends. One of the chicest venues in the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music courtesy of the six-piece Transit band and Filipino group Sound On Fire. As the name implies, Transit play a range of Top 40 hits across the spectrum of popular music every Tuesday to Sunday from 8.45pm until 11.45pm (1am at weekends), while the usually heavy-rock inclined Sound On Fire tap into their Latin-dance side every Monday night from 8.45pm until just before midnight.

PACHARAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own.

THE FACTORY 102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 8102 8pm until late Designed as a European industrial processing plant (huge fans, bright yellow pipes, road signs and metal drums), The Factory is the second offering from the team behind Acoustic. In the footsteps of its predecessor, The Factory churns out live music, albeit in a much clubbier environment with some of the city’s top

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC

Don’t forget St Patrick’s Day 17th March SEAMUS O’RILEY * Great Range of Beers Draught and Bottles. Open Breakfast Lunch and Dinner .The Best Sunday Roast Asian Fusion and Pub Grub. New Menu LIVE MUSIC Space available for Private parties 17/13 - 14 LE THANH TON ST. DIST1. SAIGON Near THAI VAN LUNG

*who is known to forget things

March 2012 The Word | 107

decks, drums & rock n' roll Going by just her ﬁrst name, Carmen is a Filipina singer/ songwriter who sings in Spanish, English, Korean, Japanese and Vietnamese. She can be seen at La Habana (6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1) every night and this is where Charles Barnes catches up with her for a rap session

Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1. Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SAX N’ ART JAZZ CLUB

28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am Unique renditions of classic jazz compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brick-walled bohemian boîte.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed

CINEMAS

IS THERE A LOT OF COMPETITION WITHIN THE MUSIC SCENE HERE? Yes! I'm not closed-minded, though. I know every day that there's a new talent being developed. I want to help people develop. I want to help sincere musicians, if I can. There are many Filipinos playing music here, but not many skilled enough to keep a job, I think. A LOT OF PEOPLE CAN'T CRACK THE SCENE. WHAT MAKES PEOPLE STICK? Love. You can never stop learning. Never think you're the best. Before I got my gig at La Habana, I was in trouble. My band was depending on me, we didn't have work and they were depending on me to survive. I stayed up late, late, late every night learning to play the guitar better. When I had my try-outs for my gig here, everyone said, ‘It's hard to get a job at La Habana.’ I came in like a beggar and asked if I could have a tryout. Jane said, ‘Do you speak Spanish?’ and I lied and said,

108 | The Word March 2012

‘Yes!’ The next week, I hardly slept and practiced singing in Spanish all night. I didn't even know Besame Mucho when I started! The other important thing is keeping customers, marketing. I know what it feels like to lose a customer. I know how it feels to lose a job, so even if I have only two or three people listening to my music, I will not hesitate to sing until late. Everything starts from one; one person comes in, they bring another and another and another. WHAT DOES MUSIC MEAN TO YOU? [Carmen picks up her guitar and spontaneously breaks into a song. It's something she's written recently and, like everything she sings, it's enchanting.] Music is like breathing. It's my life. It's my way of expressing myself. I always must dare myself to be better and work harder. Every day, I am living for a challenge. I cannot stay the same, but I know I will always be singing and making music

Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 1

212 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, Tel: 3935 0610 240 Duong 3/2, Q10, Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA IN DIAMOND PLAZA

13th floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 www.lottecinemavn.com

LOTTE MART CINEMA

Level 3, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

VASCO’S

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon’s infamous wife inspired the title of this excellent watering hole. Refurbished and expanded at the start of 2011, the ever-popular Yoko plays host to some of Saigon’s best local bands, including funk-rockers 6789 every Wednesday, metallers Microwave every Saturday and the irrepressible chanteuse Ngoc Thy twice weekly. Proceedings tend to kick off around 9pm with a revolving door of local musicians performing nightly amongst the comfy surrounds and walls adorned with Vietnamese art and photos of John Lennon and Kurt Cobain.

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

GALAXY CINEMA

116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 8533; 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688; 246 Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA

7th Floor, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 6222 0388 www.megastarmedia.net

PARAGON CINEMA

Level 5, Saigon Paragon Building, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastarmedia.net

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

DELIVERY

HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907, amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes

classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

{in the frame}

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10, Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

FRAMED BY A STREET ARTIST Lyra Dacio ﬁnds herself at the mercy of a pencil

Pretty much whenever I set out to interview an artist, it’s all talk. However, my experience with Minh Pham was the exact opposite. Instead of talking about it, she showed me. While we sat at an outdoor coffee shop she propped up her easel, laid out her pencils and pastels and my 45-minute portrait session began. I didn’t come prepared for a self-portrait so I actually looked like ME, which was kind of unsettling, especially when having a stranger look at you a hundred times over the next hour. “I wish…” statements started popping in my head one after the other — “I wish I’d put on makeup. I wish I’d plucked my eyebrows. I wish I put on some earrings or I wish this session was over!” Since I still had to do my job, I shot Minh questions while she worked on the best portrait she could come up with from my Spartan looks. My fidgeting, which included writing and taking photos, caused her to tell me to stop moving several times. I wouldn’t have been surprised if she’d created an abstract version of me instead. ROLE REVERSAL Minh is a 24-year-old artist who can be seen in the streets of Ho Chi Minh City drawing portraits of anyone who would like to sit for her. As a young girl, she would draw for hours and her mom encouraged her to continue

honing her talent by enrolling her in art classes at the Dong Thap School in the Province of Dong Thap where they lived. In mid 2010, she began her work as a street artist in her province. After a year and a half, she decided to move to Ho Chi Minh City where she has been producing portraits for locals and foreigners wherever her feet will take her. But on a typical day, she can be seen at the Nhat Ha 3 Hotel hunched over a new portrait with pastel-stained fingers. When she’s not busy seeing clients at the hotel or at another location, Minh is anxiously preparing for her exam at the University of Fine Arts where she hopes to continue her study of portraiture and produce more compelling works of art. After my session was up, Minh showed me my true-to-life portrait and my fears abated. This section of Word is called In The Frame and now guess who’s in the frame? ME! I realised that what unnerves people so much when sitting for portraits is the perception of the artist of their subject, and I guess I couldn’t bear the thought of being immortalised by a portrait that I can’t edit with Photoshop. Would I sit for a portrait again? Yes, as long as it’s Minh doing the work with me all dollied up. For portrait sessions, contact Minh at 01685868586 or visit her at the Nhat Ha 3 Hotel, 14-16 Cao Ba Quat Q1.

March 2012 The Word | 109

LEISURE & WELLNESS

BAND & DJ LISTINGS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE brettnewski@yespleasemedia.com Alternative Medicine is a party band with setlists packed with groovy, danceable super hits to amp up an event. Not too loud, but also far from wimpy. Female and male harmony vocals with a percussionist with the fastest hands in the land. Rock/indie pop/soul. BAD NEIGHBOUR LATIN ROCK BAND Contact Claudio Duek on Facebook. Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads DEPSKILLZ www.depskillz.com A Saigon-based collective of bands, musicians, DJs and MCs who play weekly gigs at some of the best venues around town. Also available for corporate events, mix & mingles, birthday bashes, bon soirees, weddings, funerals & bar mitzvahs. No karaoke or K-Pop. Call Pedro on 0943 200 495. DJ AJAM Tel: 01203 077 882 Djajam@gmail.com http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam. DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues. DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre

110 | The Word March 2012

in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JENNY SANTIAGO & THE JOYRIDERS www.jennysantiagoonline.blogspot.com Fronted by Filipino singer Jenny Santiago, former resident-singer at Caravelle Hotel and collaborator with Bad Neighbour, The Gigatones, The Curtis King Band and Acoustic Band. The band can be found playing at venues around the city. JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week. MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair. RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon. SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations. THE CURTIS KING BAND www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 110 BASKETBALL 110 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 110 COOKING CLASSES 110 CRICKET 111 DANCING 111 FITNESS 112 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 113 GOLF 113 LEISURE - GENERAL 113 SPORTS CLASSES 114 TENNIS 114

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 114 YOGA & MEDITATION 114 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 114 COSMETIC SURGERY 115 DENTAL 115 HAIRDRESSERS 116 MEDICAL 116 PHARMACIES 117 SALONS 117 SPAS 117

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese

cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764 www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS:

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri. Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit. Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or

leisure & wellness a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

LA COCHINCHINE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and â&#x20AC;&#x153;sexy dancingâ&#x20AC;?. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

HO CHI MINH CITY

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

VIETNAM

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semiâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28â&#x20AC;&#x201C;30â&#x20AC;&#x201C;32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring stateâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;ofâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;theâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 This wellâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD

BEYOND WELLNESS Sweat, pump, workout and run. Gym shouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;nt be just as boring as these; which is why we are integrating our very own recipe of MOVE, SHAPE, BALANCE and POWER [V [YHUZMVYT [OL VYKPUHY` Ă&#x201E;[ULZZ L_WLYPLUJL into a remarkable one

TOTAL WELLNESS EXPERIENCE at the life-inspiring Crescent Wellness

L_[

clubmgr@cswellness.vn

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aquaâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a oneâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;year membership. Dropâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; in sessions cost VND300,000. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFQ2 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorieâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the Boathouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Evening sessions start at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Riverside. Contact Cyril for more information

Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Goldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A wellâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Offâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

3RD FLOOR, CRESCENT PLAZA, 105 TON DAT TIEN ST., PHU MY HUNG, TAN PHU WARD, DIST. 7, HCMC, VIETNAM

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonialâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;themed gym is a large, openâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Kravâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;maga, grappling, MMA and kidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

8â&#x20AC;&#x201C;15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the poolâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but wellâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fullyâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

ZUMBA & NUTRITION HALL Fit & Fun Club, S62-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Phu My Hung Tel: 0934 060 735 www.zumba-nutrition-saigon.com

Nicole Le is a certified Zumba instructor and nutrition advisor with professional nutrition experience since 2004. Offering daily hour sessions at staggered times throughout the morning and early evening, Nicole can accommodate for various schedules. Zumba is a Latin-inspired dance fitness programme that mixes international music created by Grammy Award-winning producers and cardiovascular steps, and is ideal for people wanting to lose weight without tiresome and monotonous exercise.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

PUSH CLIMBING

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; touch rugby, contact rugby and menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s overâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

SAIGON SAINTS

RAINBOW DIVERS

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their stateâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;ofâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;theâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;art centre in An Phu. Operates PADIâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

GOLF LADIESâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; FIRST GOLF www.ladiesfirstâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;golf.com A nonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and twoâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5411 2001 Visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nineâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT 77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660. www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18â&#x20AC;&#x201C;hole, 6,384â&#x20AC;&#x201C;metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9. Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18â&#x20AC;&#x201C;hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an onâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;site eatery.

LEISURE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this longâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; established running club goes to various outâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;ofâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pubâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to nonâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@yahoo.com.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Mediumâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitarâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and

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leisure & wellness ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES

leisure & wellness YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

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Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR 33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE 273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG LASIK & AESTHETIC CLINIC 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5. Tel: 3923 4419 A range of optical and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern clinic, which is home to a team of experienced and highly trained doctors. Apart from Lasik vision correction, procedures include Botox and restylane skin–filler treatments. Hotline: 0919 590 866.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1. Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7. Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167. saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane,

by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800. www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

SARAH MARTIN Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic

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leisure & wellness EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC

90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

COLOR HAUS 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

SMILE DENTAL

JASMINE

www.smiledental-vn.com

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 8.30am to 12pm and 2pm to 6.30pm, and on Sundays from 8.30am to 12pm. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

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273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CARE 1 Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500, www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC Smart Kids, 26 Street 10, Q2 Nutrifort, 281 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0903 617 101 IFC provides therapy for a full range of issues including anxiety, depression, adjustment, divorce, cultural and ethnic challenges and more. Their eclectic approach is tailored to meet the therapeutic needs of each individual client with offices in districts 1 and 2. Call Annie Dolle, LCSWA or Marijke Schaminee, MA. or email IFCSaigon@gmail.com to arrange an appointment.

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication. 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescriptiononly. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS

THE STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

PHARMACIES

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

e s.

SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS

FV HOSPITAL

JUST MEN

1 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

Tim

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 (24-Hour) www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

ART HAIR

MEDICAL

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI)

VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 . Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY

staff in an English-friendly environment attracts a loyal foreign clientele. Top industry products such as TIGI and GOLDWELLL are used and a cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. A second salon is located in the Park Hyatt Hotel.

Vietnam Award fo am 11 r “Ex i et n 20 cellen ce in Dentistry” by V

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist and cut and colour specialist Ky The Guy, a well-trained

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

HAIRDRESSERS

201 0,

17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist. 3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22 / 38 23 92 94 starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net

First Impression (Deep cleansing) with 40 min for 660,000 VND Facial Rejuvenation (Vitamin C ) with 60 min for 1,170,000 VND and 90 min for 1,650,000 VND 23C 3C Ton Duc Thang, District 1, HCMC Tel: (84-8) 3823 3777 rsv@rosablancavn.com www.rosablancavn.com Open: 9:30 - 19:00 (Closed Monday)

style QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1. Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234, www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

118 | The Word March 2012

STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 118 CLOTHING STORES 119 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 121 SPORTSWEAR 122 TAILORS 122 INTERIORS ART 122 CRAFT 122 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 122 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 123 LIGHTING 123

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm Despite its size, Accessorize is marred by its sloppy and disorganised displays. The shoppers still come in their droves, though, attracted to the range of products that includes anything from beachwear and children’s clothes through to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices depend on types and designs, but generally start from VND200,000, with a normal bag costing from VND1 million.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its front-

ICONS 101 CASUAL WEAR FORMAL WEAR SHOES BAGS JEWELLERY ACCESSORIES SWIMWEAR UNDERWEAR

style visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 124 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 124 MOBILE PHONES 124 GROCERIES BAKERIES 124 CATERING 125 GROCERIES 125 LIQUOR & WINE 125 ARTICLES LEAD WITH NUMBERS 120 age is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and well-organised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS 127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN 35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA

TIC TAC WATCHES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI 67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI 146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

YB DESIGNS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap

costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MEKONG QUILTS

MAXXSTYLE 52 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX 118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissance-style columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

Ho Chi Minh City - Open 9 am - 7 pm everyday 64 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 083 914 2119 mekong.quilts.hcm@gmail.com NEW SHOP: 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, District 1 Tel: 08 2210 3110 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt1@gmail.com NEW SHOP: S17-Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, PMH, D7 Tel: 08 6271 7758 mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt7@gmail.com

MID TO TOP BOSSINI 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

www.mekong-quilts.org

Hanoi - Open 9 am - 9 pm everyday 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3926 4831 mekong.quilts.hn@gmail.com

March 2012 The Word | 119

style

lead with NUMBERS

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style Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

ER-COUTURE 43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’BLANC 89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

FINDING LOVE CIMIGO ASKED 500 PEOPLE FROM THEIR CIMIGOLIVE ONLINE PANEL FOR THEIR OPINIONS ON LOVE. IS LOVE FATED OR BY CHANCE? WHEN DO PEOPLE EXPECT TO FIND LOVE? WHAT ARE PEOPLE LOOKING FOR WHEN IT COMES TO THE PERFECT PARTNER? LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT Whether we are male or female, young or old, most have doubts about how long such love can last. But nearly one-third believe that love can happen at first sight. DESTINY OR CHANCE Half believe that love is written in the stars. The others think that love is all about chance. LOVE FLOURISHES AT 19 TO 22-YEARS-OLD Most fall in love between the ages of 19 to 22, but many are finding their first loves during their late-teens. The majority believe the optimal age for marriage is between 26 and 30.

120 | The Word March 2012

AGE GAPS BETWEEN PARTNERS Well over half would consider a love match with someone with an age difference of 10 years or more, either younger or older. Men are more likely to say yes to this. EQUAL OPPORTUNITY PARTNER Nationality isn’t a big factor for people. The view seems to be that if love happens then what will be will be. SMART AND FUNNY Men and women agree that two of the most important attributes are intelligence and humour, but there are some key differences between genders. Women are looking for a strong guy to settle down with, and wealth is more important that looks. Men, on the other hand, seek beauty, obedience and thriftiness when it comes to the perfect partner.

Discover more at www.cimigo.vn

L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

GAYA CLOTHING Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE 85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

IT'S HAPPENED TO BE A CLOSET 89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array

of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

LABELLA 85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eye-catching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

LEVI’S 47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

LITI 40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

LOLITA 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) www.lolita.com.vn Tel: 3925 9993 Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-towear clothing for work or play

L’USINE First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

MANGO 40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

NGAN 23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT 137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

THUY NGA DESIGN 19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A longsleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA 35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailor-made clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

TOP-END CHLOE 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian

brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS 155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS AQUAMARINE 211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from onepiece bikinis through to two-pieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

JOCKEY Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

LA HA 139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

LA SENZA B1-45, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9302 9am to 10pm Offers a huge range of bras and underpants designed in various styles and for different purposes. This American brand also offers a wide selection of sweet and seductive lingerie items and swimsuits. A normal bra starts at VND300,000 while a silicon brazier goes for VND900,000. There is also a selection of invisible bras stocking at between VND1.5 million for a normal type and VND2 million for special version.

SSUZI 127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good. However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

WACOAL 94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices

MAI’S 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak

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style

are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET

spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

U.BEST HOUSE

GALLERY

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and

122 | The Word March 2012

Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

GALERIE QUYNH

MEKONG CREATIONS

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

141 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 www.mekong-creations.org 9am to 8pm Mekong Creations is a project of the NGO Mekong Plus, designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, rattan and bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. A bamboo vase costs VND1.3 million and a rag ranges from VND400,000 to VND430,000.

NGUYEN FRERES 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

213C Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

VIETNAM QUILTS 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 www.vietnam–quilts.org 9am to 7pm Located opposite the Bitexco Financial Tower, Vietnam Quilts is a charity organisation aiming to help poor women in rural areas. The products are hand-made and there is a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within five to six weeks and there is also a selection of accessories including aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco.

BELLAVITA The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by wellknown brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

GAYA

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world. ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked. FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service. THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3911 0104 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and

hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE

UNITY

12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com

Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps,

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor

March 2012 The Word | 123

style

including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH 28 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 025271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, profes-

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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sional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD 81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai

between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292. www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087. www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh. Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of

VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

SESAME BAKERY

GASTRO’HOME

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

LE REUNION DES MARMITES Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

NGUYEN KIM

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

32 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

REX HOTEL CATERING

THIEN HOA

LE COCHON D’OR

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu. Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THE CATERERS

Tel:0903 109 431 info@mealsonheels.asia Meals On Heels is a weekly catering service providing healthy home cooked meals. A new menu is released every Monday, which includes vegetarian options and kids portions. Meals are delivered fresh (not hot/not frozen) and can be reheated or frozen.

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1. Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

MEALS ON HEELS

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

GIA THANH

from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY info@saigoncateringco.com Tel: 0913 981128 (Ms Huong – Vietnamese) / 01214 401853 (Ms Ana – English) With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style,

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen.net. vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1. Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh

OPERATION: TEA

PHUONG HA 58 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3829 3306 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on– site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

March 2012 The Word | 125

generation v DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q 1 , Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

JOHNNY’S WINE STOP 109 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 38234861 www.johnnyswinestop.com A small wine bar offering premium varietals at affordable prices. This wine bar, located on Dong Khoi, is open from 11am to 11pm daily and also offers tasting flights and a modest selection of imported beers.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU 15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas

delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 126 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 126 CLASSES & SPORTS 126 CLOTHING 127

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE 270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

ME OI

VINO WINE SHOP

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 ,Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

1B Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 128 ENTERTAIMENT 129 KIDS' PARTIES 129 MEDICAL 129 ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

generation v GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMUSIK Tel: 0907 099 480 goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from

around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

STAGEMAGIC

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

RMIT VIETNAM

TAE KWON DO

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

PIANO CLASSES

SAIGON PONY CLUB

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up

CONFIDENT ABOUT MY FUTURE

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generation v to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM 4F-04 (4th Floor), Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 7574 contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to mums and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and much more. Brands available include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school

generation v of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2 Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

Early Childhood - Primary Campus - 36 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6960 Middle/Senior Campus – East -West Hwy | Q2 Tel: 3822 4992 www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB 3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up

for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7 Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2 Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236 www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school pro-

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gramme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a USbased curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

TINIWORLD 218 Pasteur, Q3 Tel; 38241385 www.tiniworld.com tiNiWorld is a chain of EDUTAINMENT centres that combines education and entertainment in an exciting, safe and social environment for kids aged from 2 to 12 years old.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168 www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT CIRCUS & FAIRGROUND Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Not stylish but fast paced and cheerful is the outdoor Circus and Fairground on Pham Ngu Lao. Shows on weekend nights at 7.45pm feature trapeze artists, fire eaters, dancing monkeys and other lively acts. Entrance is VND40,000 for adults and VND20,000 for children.

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502 dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

Saigon Kids Where children grow with love and care.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2 Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses

“Materials gather history as children play with them”

18 months – 6 years old. Part-time and full-time attendance plans. Enrolment throughout the year. Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan Street, D.3 Tel: (08) 39325579 | www.saigonkidscentre.com

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Hanoi

THE ICE QUEEN / CONSIDER THE SNAIL THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Ice Queen Debbie Clare chats with an integral ﬁgure behind a Hanoian staple. Photo by Dominic Blewett

he atmosphere in Hanoi’s historic ice cream factory is so thick with the smell of dairy that all you have to do is open your mouth, start chewing on air, and it feels like you’ve inhaled seven ice creams. According to 53-year-old Mai Ngoc Lan — Kem Trang Tien's longest-serving staff member — the occasional customer does eat up to seven ice creams during a single visit. “Usually one isn’t enough,” she explains. “People regularly eat between five and seven ice creams. It’s not such a rare thing to happen.” The sticky floor bears darkened footprints from the relentless stream of cream-hungry revellers, whom during peak season lick, slurp, suck and lip-smack up to 50,000 Trang Tien frozen treats per day. Kamikaze cones have plummeted to the ground and stand perched on melting balls of freshly scooped ice cream — never to reach the mouths they were intended for. Under plastic trailing ivy and perched predominantly on Hondas, teenagers, families and the occasional bemused tourist, are, via loud speaker, shouted through the bustling archway, before parking and joining a queue at one of five service stations. Lan looks out triumphantly across the lunchtime crowd. “We open at 7.30am and close at 11pm, seven days a week. We don’t close at all during the day; demand is so high that we just couldn’t consider it. We didn’t even close during the American War.” Opening in 1958 as a government-

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owned restaurant, the company didn’t start exclusively pushing ice cream until 2005 when it became privately owned. Things began to excel when they opened a second factory on Cau Giay Street. The company then began distributing to smaller agents across the city and, with the aid of refrigerated lorries, product is delivered to more than 200 outlets throughout Vietnam — from the swampy paddy fields in the Mekong Delta to the frigid crags of Ha Giang. “We don’t have any rivals,” Lan proudly proclaims. “We don’t have to compete with anyone, and it’s based on our reputation — we’ve been the best ice cream makers for more than half a century now and our ingredients are 100 percent Vietnamese.”

Sweet Creams Lan is perched elegantly on a leather armchair in Kem Trang Tien's conference room. Behind her, the fading walls are lined with awards of excellence spanning more than two decades, and polished trophies take pride of place under a large statue of Uncle Ho. Subtly oozing Parisian style, and with freshly applied lip gloss and nail varnish, Lan gesticulates gently as she recalls memories from her tenure with the company. “I started working here in 1980,” she says. “At the time I didn’t really have a choice where I was going to work, I had to take what was available and 32 years later I’m still here and I’m proud of working here and what we have achieved.

“I’ve seen the company grow from being a simple restaurant, into a nationally recognised and respected brand… our success is based on our traditional values and flavours; we just keep on making the products that people enjoy the most and don’t try to deviate from that.” Kem Trang Tien’s basic ingredients include Vinamilk, grapefruit oil, coconut, condensed milk, eggs, green beans, coco powder and sugar. The biggest selling ice-lolly is the green bean flavoured treat, with lemon being the least popular. The company employs more than 120 staff and will bring in scores of extra workers during holidays and special events. The original site on Trang Tien is a bustling hive of activity. During the busiest hours, crowds of lactose-lovers spill out onto the streets and onto the pavement opposite. Discarded lolly sticks and puddles of melting cream are strewn about the place — confectionary viscera in the wake of rapacious appetites. Look into the faces of the hundreds of customers enjoying these cold, sugary delights and the same expression can be seen over and over again. Their eyes stare off into the distance consumed in some kind of cream-induced daze — meditative, focused, and poised to catch every droplet before all has melted away and is lost forever. “The best thing about working here, is the association with such a reputable brand,” Lan smiles proudly and strokes her hands. “And, of course, [there’s] the bonus of being able to eat good-quality ice cream every day.”

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STREET SNACKER

Consider the Snail Women love snails. Phillip Turo unravels the mystery. Photos by Dominic Blewett

t is after midnight. In Hung Yen province a farmer named Hanh, a woman, is leaving her house for the fields. Under a clouded, moonless sky she walks along the lane to the riverbank. She stops, scratches her hip. Very slowly, she kneels and then lowers her torso until she’s lying flat on the soil. She slides her body along the ground. Women love snails. Every Vietnamese woman I have known loves snails. Fact. Men don’t love snails. This is fact also. Men tolerate snails and are, at best, indifferent towards snails. Women, though. They love them. A breeze rustles the long grass. A sign. For the first time tonight, a sliver of moon peeks out from behind the thick blanket of cloud, briefly illuminating the ground. Hanh pauses and holds her breath. The light falls on a thin, glistening trail to her left, leading down to the water. The clouds conceal the moon once more. Hanh crawls again now, towards the river. With these indisputable facts in mind I go to chew upon the feminine mysteries

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of this most edible of gastropods in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. As usual, upon arrival at the snail stall, the following things can be seen: the proprietor, a woman, is transferring snails from baskets to steaming pots to bowls as fast as her windmilling arms will allow; groups of women are devouring the creatures with their teeth and calling out ravenously for more; men are dotted here and there in these groups, their faces wan, forlorn, poking without enthusiasm in the shell for meat, tears rolling down their cheeks. It’s always the same. The sparkling trail leads straight to the water’s edge and then turns right. Hanh follows, one bare foot dragging in the swollen river’s flow. Ripples run downstream. We are seated. Bowls of sauce (fish sauce, sugar, vinegar and lime leaf), and bowls of chilli, lemongrass and ginger are placed before us. Next to them are sharp, triangular shards of metal, each murderously skewering half a lime. Then two steaming bowls of snails arrive. One

Tiêng viêt THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN / ĂN UỐNG Ở PHỐ NGƯỜI HOA PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

contains large, apple snails (oc mit), and the other, smaller river snails (oc da, oc van). Let’s begin. Hanh stops and wipes her brow on her sleeve. She hears the low breathing of sleeping water buffalo nearby. Her body tenses. In the distance she has spotted her charge, the source of the slime. To release the snail, one stabs it in its cooked face with the metal shard and scoops it out of the shell. Not all the way though. As the snail’s body thins, pull it against the sharp lip of the shell to cut it and leave the bottom half of the meat inside. The reason for this becomes clear if you pull it out and study the discarded flesh. By cutting the large ones in two you are leaving behind what looks like, and possibly is, a bulging sac of poo. If you should forget to do the same for the smaller snails you will get a gritty, crunchy mouthful of, what? A closer look reveals five or six miniscule snails with miniscule shells gestating inside. The muscles on the snail’s foot stop their contractions and it halts. Its eyestalks sway back and forth as it scans the night. Hanh holds her breath. The snail’s eyesight is poor. Poor snail. It inches forward.

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But what of the texture, the taste? Well. The big ones are rubbery and have a pleasant, vaguely beany taste. And the small ones taste like grass. But really they both taste of the dipping sauce — a spicy, sour taste. And this, says Ngoc, the owner’s daughter, is the secret of her snail stall’s success. This is what has kept customers coming back these last 16 years. One of the customers, Phuong Hanh, says she has been annihilating snails here for a decade. Another customer, Hien, states that the reason snails are so beloved by women, is because “perhaps women like to pick at things”. I couldn’t agree more. Hanh leaps through the darkness like a hatted knife. The snail screams silently and attempts evasive action. Too slow! Too late! The snail is in Hanh’s hands. She kneels and raises the beast above her head. The moon appears once more and shines down upon the outcome of this battle, as old as time. Hanh gets to her feet and drops the single snail into her empty bag. She sighs, wipes a hand on her trouser leg, and continues along the riverbank. “I come here all the time,” lies a male customer. “Snails are both for women and men.”

He struggles with the shell, grows bored, mutters, “Where am I?” A woman takes his place. Women love snails. And this woman claims to be able to eat many bowls. I don’t doubt it. Here, they sell 150kg of snails per day. Consider this. And now consider this: each snail weighs around 50g. Consider how many individual snails there are in 150kg and how many snail stalls there are in Hanoi alone. Every couple of weeks, it is fair to say (conservative even), the female population of Hanoi eats the population of Hanoi in snails. Here our stories merge. Hanh doesn’t know this and we don’t know this. The snail farmers spill from the fields at dawn towards trucks with idling engines, their arms laden with the tiny creatures. We all sleep, considering dreams. And the trucks move with their silent cargo through the night toward us.

OC NONG HA TRANG 1A Dinh Liet, Hoan Kiem.

Open from 2.30pm until 9.30pm or until sold out. A bowl of big snails costs VND55,000 while the smaller version goes for VND35,000.

THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Chỉ mới mở cửa được khoảng một tháng, nhà hàng Monsoon đã mạnh dạn để chúng tôi viết bài đánh giá, trong khi đó nhà hàng Baan Thai kỳ cựu hy vọng vẫn tiếp tục được danh tiếng là nơi phục vụ món ăn ngon trong thành phố. Cả hai nơi thật sự như thế nào? Hình ảnh bởi Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Baan Thai

55 Thaão Ðiïìn, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453

aan Thai coá nghôa laâ "Nhaâ Thaái", tïn nhaâ haâng àem túái möåt caãm giaác laâ hoå seä coá möåt nöåi thêët êëm cuáng vaâ truyïìn thöëng kiïíu Thaái. Tuy nhiïn, ngoaâi möåt ñt àöì trang trñ lõch sûã vaâ taác phêím nghïå thuêåt phong tuåc Thaái àûúåc trang hoaâng trïn tûúâng vaâ xung quanh, Baan Thai toaát lïn möåt veã quöëc tïë chung chung, nhû sûå giao thoa giûäa möåt quaán bar thïí thao kiïíu Anh vaâ möåt quaán ùn cuä kiïíu Myä, têët caã àïìu nhúâ nhûäng quêìy ghïë cao boåc àïåm maâu àoã, nhûäng ghïë bùng cao, TV maân hònh phùèng àang chiïëu ESPN vaâ baãng phi tiïu. Khöng khñ nhaâ haâng thêåt vui veã vúái khoaãng nùm àïën chñn ngûúâi àang thûúãng thûác bia sau giúâ laâm viïåc trong khi chúâ àúåi moán mang vïì. Chuáng töi vaâo thùèng thûåc àún vaâ nhanh choáng tòm ra möåt vaâi moán àùåc trûng maâ bêët cûá nhaâ haâng Thaái nöíi tiïëng naâo cuäng laâm khaá töët (caâ-ri neua àoã, baánh caá chiïn kiïíu Thaái, suáp tom yum kung, vaâ xaâ laách som tam) Ngûúâi phuåc vuå nûä noái cho chuáng töi biïët phêìn lúán khaách cuãa Baan Thaái laâ ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi vaâ hoå chuã yïëu yïu cêìu moán caâri neua àoã vúái gaâ. Nhûng ngûúâi phuåc vuå laåi khuyïn laâ nïn choån thõt boâ. Chuáng töi àöìng yá vaâ choån mûác cay vûâa. Nhûng khi àûúåc mang ra, chuáng töi nhêån ra laâ nïn choån mûác cay nhêët. Ðûúåc ùn keâm cuâng cúm trùæng, moán caâ-ri naây khaá dõu ngoåt, vúái nhiïìu nûúác

136 | The Word March 2012

cöët dûâa, saã vaâ ngoâ nùçm trïn cuâng taåo ra nhûäng hûúng võ hoâa tröån húåp nhêët. Moán coân coá nêëm, haânh tñm, úát àoã (nhûng khöng cay) vaâ nhûäng miïëng thõt boâ mïìm, ngon, nïëu àêy laâ möåt phiïn baãn nguyïn thuãy cuãa Thaái àaä àûúåc thay àöíi àïí laâm vûâa miïång ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi hún thò àêy àuáng laâ ngöi nhaâ Thaái thên thiïån vúái ngûúâi nûúác ngoaâi. Moán thod muan pla (baánh caá chiïn kiïíu Thaái) thò khaá thêët voång. Dai, suäng nûúác vaâ nhû cao su, möîi chiïëc baánh moãng, maâu xaám vaâ thiïëu sûác söëng, coá võ nhû laâ chuáng àaä àûúåc nêëu trûúác àoá röìi hêm laåi trong loâ vi ba. Möîi miïëng cùæn àïìu nhaåt nheäo vaâ thêåm chñ caái nûúác chêëm ngoân ngoåt cuäng khöng thïí laâm cho noá ngon hún. May mùæn thay, moán tom yum kung (suáp chua ngot vúái töm) laâ möåt sûå ngaåc nhiïn. Cay vaâ chua, moán àeåp àeä naây chûáa àûång möåt cuá hñch kñch thñch voâng hoång baån khi noá àûúåc nuöët vaâo maâ moán caâ-ri àoã khöng thïí laâm àûúåc. Böën con töm trong moán thò mêåp, tûúi vaâ àûúåc löåt voã, trong khi àoá nêëm rúm thò mïìm vaâ khaá nhiïìu. Ngoâ cuäng nhiïìu vaâ võ chanh kaffir thò hoaân toaân saãng khoaái. Nïn goåi moán naây. Coá nguöìn göëc tûâ Laâo vaâ vuâng Isaan úã Têy Bùæc Thaái Lan, moán som tam Thai (xaá laách àu àuã kiïíu Thaái) kïët húåp chanh, úát, mùæm caá vaâ àûúâng thöët nöët, cuäng nhû àêåu phöång vaâ àu àuã xanh. Töi caãm thêëy khoá

khùn vúái hûúng võ nöìng cuãa noá, nhûng ngûúâi baån Viïåt Nam ài cuâng laåi nhanh choáng thñch ûáng vúái caái moán miïìn Têy Bùæc naây maâ khöng coá vêën àïì gò. Ðöëi vúái cö êëy, moán àoá laâ moán ngon nhêët trong bûäa töëi. Nïëu nhû baån àang tòm kiïëm moán ùn cöí àiïín hay möåc maåc Thaái trong möåt khöng khñ Thaái truyïìn thöëng thò Baan Thai khöng phaãi laâ àiïím àïën cuãa baån. Tuy nhiïn, vò giaá caã thò húåp lyá vaâ êím thûåc Thaái theo kiïíu quöëc tïë, thò núi àêy laâ möåt sûå lûåa choån töët. Nhûäng moán hoå laâm chùæc chùæn ngon hún rêët nhiïìu so nhûäng moán àûúåc baán úã möåt söë nhaâ haâng Thaái trong trung têm.

NHÂN XÉT

8 8 10

THÚC ĂN

TRANG TRÍ

DICH VU

GIÁ CÀ-RI ÐO VÓI BÒ — 89,000 ÐÔNG BÁNH CÁ KIÊU THÁI — 79,000 ÐÔNG XÀ LÁCH ÐU ÐU THÁI — 49,000 ÐÔNG SÚP TOM YUM KUNG — 89,000 ÐÔNG

Nhà Hàng Bar Monsoon

ûúåc thaânh lêåp vaâo nùm 2004 úã Yangon, Myanmar, Monsoon chñnh thûác múã chi nhaánh úã Saâi Goân vaâo thaáng trûúác. Chuyïn vïì caác moán ùn xuyïn Ðöng Nam AÁ vaâ phuåc vuå möåt loaåt caác moán ùn àiïín hònh cuãa Viïåt Nam, Campuchia, Laâo, Myanmar vaâ Thaái Lan, nhaâ haâng àûúåc thiïët kïë àeåp mùæt trong möåt biïåt thûå kiïíu Phaáp êën tûúång, chó nùçm caách khu vûåc phöë Têy coá vaâi phuát. Viïåc noái roä vïì khoaãng thúâi gian gheá thùm nhaâ haâng naây vaâ viïët baâi àaánh giaá naây laâ quan troång, Monsoon vêîn àang trong thúâi gian múã cûãa taåm, chúâ ngaây khai trûúng nïn thûåc àún hoaân chónh cuãa hoå vêîn chûa sùén saâng. Hiïån taåi, möåt vaâi moán àûúåc nïu trong baâi coá thïí seä àûúåc biïën têëu thïm hoùåc seä bõ ruát khoãi thûåc àún trong khi àoá nhûäng moán múái gêìn nhû chùæc chùæn seä àûúåc àûa vaâo. Tuy vêåy, thûåc àún mêîu vêîn tiïët löå nhiïìu hún mong muöën cho viïåc àaánh giaá chêët lûúång tay nghïì nêëu nûúáng. Töi vaâ ngûúâi baån àöìng haânh ài lêìn lûúåt möîi moán cuãa tûâng quöëc gia, maâ thiïëu mêët Campuchia vò trïn thûåc àún chûa coá muåc àöì ùn tûâ àêët nûúác naây. Chuáng töi bùæt àêìu vúái moán Thaái vaâ goåi möåt àôa phad thai goong sod (miïën tröån vöëi trûáng, nûúác mùæm, nûúác me, úát, giaá, haânh laá vaâ töm). Noá thêåt tuyïåt. Ði keâm theo möåt bïn laâ àêåu phöång nghiïìn, ngoâ vaâ chanh tûúi, moán naây taåo caãm giaác maånh, vúái võ nöìng nöìng gùæt gùæt cuãa nûúác chanh vùæt hoâa cuâng võ ngoân ngoåt cuãa me. Noá cuäng nheå nhaâng, khöng gêy nùång buång. Chuáng töi kïët thuác moán thêåt nhanh, dûúâng nhû möîi miïëng caâng laâm chuáng töi nghiïån thïm. Vûúåt qua biïn giúái, chuáng töi quay trúã laåi Viïåt Nam vaâ choån moán yïu thñch cuãa Saâi Goân, buán thõt nûúáng chaã gioâ. Laâ möåt

1 Cao Baá Nhaå, Q1 Tel: 6290 8899

nöî lûåc khaá töët, thõt heo thúm nhûng húi kheát, trong khi àoá nûúác chêëm thò ngoåt dõu. Kyâ laå laâ buán thò húi khö trong khi àoá chaã gioâ thò mïìm, vêîn chûa àûúåc chiïn gioân vaâ àûúåc cuöån vúái thõt heo vaâ rau. Nhûäng ngûúâi goåi moán laab gai kiïíu Laâo (xaâ laách thõt gaâ bùçm vúái thñnh, úát vaâ huáng luãi) nïn cêín thêån, caái moán tröng coá veã khiïm töën naây seä laâm baån ngaåc nhiïn. Ùn keâm chung vúái möåt söë loaåi rau cuã tûúi (caãi bùæp trùæng, àêåu àuäa vaâ dûa leo), caã hai chuáng töi àïìu àïìu sûãng söët vò võ cay nöìng cuãa noá (cay hûâng hûåc ngay sau khi baån nuöët noá). Ðöëng rau cuã tûúi chûáng minh möåt sûå traái ngûúåc dïî chõu, àùåc biïåt laâ dûa leo, chuáng maát vaâ saãng khoaái. Moán naây khaá ngon, nhûng nïn chuêín bõ tinh thêìn. Moán cuöëi cuâng cuãa chuáng töi àûúåc xem laâ moán mohinga (nûúác hêìm caá, ài cuâng buán gaåo vaâ caá hêëp, vaâ trang trñ bùçng trûáng luöåc, rau quaã têím böåt chiïn, haânh ngoâ vaâ coân nhiïìu thaânh phêìn khaác). Caã hai chuáng töi ban àêìu àïìu khöng hûáng thuá vúái caái moán suáp beáo beáo mùån mùån, coá võ nhû chaáo naây, nhûng röìi cuöëi cuâng töi cuäng gêìn nhû trúã thaânh keã bõ chinh phuåc. Trûáng luöåc thò húi khoá ùn keâm, trong khi àoá rau cuã chiïn vaâ buán gaåo thò giuáp laâm cho moán ngon àêìy kinh ngaåc hún so vúái nïëu àïí nguyïn. Sau khi àaä xem xeát moåi thûá, Monsoon àaä chûáng minh rùçng hoå laâ möåt nhaâ haâng múái cho thõ trûúâng nhaâ haâng quöëc tïë luön luön phaát triïín cuãa thaânh phöë. Nöî lûåc höåi tuå toaân böå nhûäng nïìn êím thûåc truyïìn thöëng trong khu vûåc dûúái möåt maái nhaâ laâ möåt bûúác ài taáo baåo vaâ àêìy tham voång. Thúâi gian seä traã lúâi àoá coá laâ möåt bûúác ài àuáng hay khöng, nhûng hiïån taåi moåi thûá vêîn töët.

NHÂN XÉT

9.5 13 11 THÚC ĂN

TRANG TRÍ

DICH VU

GIÁ

MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

March 2012 The Word | 137

ĂN UỐNG Ở PHỐ

NGƯỜI HOA Hãy bỏ qua những món ăn bình thường của ẩm thực Trung Hoa, còn có rất nhiều lựa chọn cho bất cứ ai muốn tận hưởng những món Hoa thuần túy tại khu vực xung quanh Chợ Lớn. Viết bởi Michael Arnold. Hình ảnh bởi Charles Barnes

öîi khi mùåt trúâi lïn, chúå Bònh Têy vô àaåi nùçm trong khu phöë ngûúâi Hoa cuãa thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh dûúâng nhû söëng laåi, noá phêåp phöìng húi thúã bêån röån àöng àuác taåi nhûäng cöíng trung têm, röìi luöìng sinh khñ àoá laåi àûúåc truyïìn àïën nhûäng con àûúâng naáo nhiïåt trong khu vûåc. Laâ möåt trong nhûäng núi baán só lúán nhêët cuãa miïìn Nam Viïåt Nam, chúå Bònh Têy laâ möåt hònh tûúång thõnh vûúång cuãa nhûäng quêån ngûúâi Hoa cuä. Laâ möåt trong nhûäng kiïën truác àiïín hònh Trung Hoa pha Phaáp coân laåi cuãa thaânh phöë, noá cuäng laâ möåt biïíu tûúång cho sûå sùén saâng hoâa nhêåp bêët cûá núi àêu cuãa ngûúâi Hoa. Mêët nhiïìu thïë kyã àïí coá sûå hiïån diïån cuãa ngûúâi Hoa úã khu vûåc naây, nhûäng truyïìn thöëng vùn hoáa cuä vêîn coân àûúåc gòn giûä lûu truyïìn, trong khi àoá laåi xuêët hiïån thïë hïå ngûúâi Hoa treã thöng thaåo tiïëng Viïåt hún tiïëng Hoa cuãa cha öng àïí laåi, ngûúâi Hoa úã Chúå Lúán vêîn xem mònh laâ möåt cöång àöìng riïng vúái caác phong tuåc têåp quaán riïng – vaâ caã nïìn êím thûåc. Hoå cuäng chùèng phaãi luác naâo cuäng chó roä ra nhûäng àiïím khaác biïåt, tuy nhiïn – du khaách àïën Chúå Lúán àïìu thêëy thêët voång vúái caác nhaâ haâng Trung Hoa úã trïn caác con àûúâng lúán, vò dûúâng nhû êím thûåc Trung Hoa tuyïåt vúâi laåi coá xu hûúáng nùçm êín mònh trong nhûäng

138 | The Word March 2012

goác khuêët trïn nhûäng con heãm chùçng chõt cuãa khu Chúå Lúán. Vö söë nhûäng truyïìn thöëng ùn uöëng cuãa Trung Hoa, laâ möåt trong nhûäng nïìn êím thûåc hêëp dêîn nhêët thïë giúái, vêîn laâ möåt caái gò àoá bñ êín.

Ngon Ngon, Dim Sum Trong khi nhûäng thûúng laái dêåy súám chuêín bõ cho möåt ngaây buön baán, thò nhûäng ngûúâi Hoa söëng gêìn àoá thò thû thaã hún chuêín bõ bûäa saáng cho gia àònh. Laâ möåt trong nhûäng moán ùn cuãa ngûúâi miïìn nam Trung Hoa, moán dim sum truyïìn thöëng laâ möåt moán ùn di saãn quan troång, vaâ coá thïí tòm noá úã Chúå Lúán nïëu nhû baån biïët tòm úã àêu: möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ haâng àûúåc yïu thñch cuãa ngûúâi àõa phûúng laâ Tiïën Phaát (18 Kyâ Hoâa, Q5), nùçm trïn con àûúâng sau lûng Parkson Huâng Vûúng. Nhaâ haâng nöíi bêåt vúái baãng hiïåu maâu àoã rûåc quaãng caáo nhûäng àùåc saãn – àiïím têm mang phong caách Höìng Köng àñch thûåc vúái nhûäng moán nho nhoã nhiïìu maâu sùæc sùåc súä. Bïn trong nhaâ haâng, nhûäng nhoám nhoã thûåc khaách àang gùæp baánh bao vaâ cúm cuöån (21,000 àöìng), caâng cua baách hoa (35,000 àöìng) vaâ chên gaâ khöng xûúng (30,000 àöìng), vaâ àang húáp traâ noáng trong nhûäng taách nhoã. Nïëu hoå coân coá buång àïí ùn, hoå seä goåi thïm moán baánh trûáng (38,000 àöìng)

- möåt loaåi baánh hêëp Trung Hoa vúái nhên trûáng gaâ. Moán myâ àiïím têm cuãa Tiïën Phaát laâ sûå giao hoâa giûäa hûúng võ Viïåt Nam vaâ nhûäng thaânh phêìn Trung Hoa nhû hoaânh thaánh (29,000 àöìng/ 34,000 àöìng), chên gioâ heo (29,000 àöìng) vaâ caá viïn (27,000 àöìng). Nhûng ngûúâi Hoa àïën àêy khöng phaãi vò nhûäng moán àoá – hoå seä choån moán baánh caãi bùæp thõt heo hêëp (30,000 àöìng), àêy laâ möåt moán baánh bao röìng nhoã cuãa Thûúång Haãi, coá khoaãng möåt muöîng canh nûúác thõt hêìm vaâ phuã möåt lúáp böåt nhaäo bïn trïn. Cùæn möåt miïëng vaâ nûúác thõt hêìm êëm aáp chaåm nheå lûúäi möåt caách saãng khoaái. Nhûäng ngûúâi àùåc biïåt chó quan têm àïën dim sum coá thïí seä àïën khu Thuêån Kiïìu Plaza lêu nùm vaâ röång lúán nùçm chiïìu bïn kia cuãa Parkson. Nhaâ haâng Haãi Saãn (lêìu 1, Thuêån Kiïìu Plaza, 190 Höìng Baâng, Q5) àaä hoaåt àöång àûúåc 12 nùm – vaâ trong khoaãng thúâi gian àoá àaä taåo dûång àûúåc möåt danh tiïëng cho nhûäng moán àiïím têm Quaãng Ðöng, cuäng nhû thûåc àún moán ùn töëi vúái nhûäng moán ùn haãi saãn êën tûúång àïën tûâ nhûäng tónh khaác nhau cuãa Trung Quöëc. Haãi Saãn phuåc vuå dim sum truyïìn thöëng, vúái giaá ngang nhau 38,000 àöìng cho möåt röí hay àôa. Nhûäng àaåi gia àònh ngûúâi Hoa ài ùn töëi vúái nhau thûúâng laâm nhûäng ngûúâi phuåc vuå bêån röån – hoå thónh thoaãng cuäng khoá chiïìu – nhûng àêy têët caã laâ phêìn goáp taåo nïn khöng khñ cuãa nhaâ haâng, sûå öìn aâo naáo nhiïåt, húi nûúác vaâ caã muâi nhûäng nguyïn liïåu Trung Hoa truyïìn thöëng, êm thanh karaoke vang vang tûâ trïn sên khêëu cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi haát nhûäng baãn nhaåc Hoa nheå nhaâng. Vúái sûå biïíu diïîn naây, bûäa ùn dûúâng nhû diïîn ra chêåm – nhûng àûâng lo, coân nhiïìu thò giúâ lùæm vò nhaâ haâng phuåc vuå dim sum túái têån 2 giúâ chiïìu. Dim sum chiïn gioân laâ moán tuyïåt nhêët cuãa

March 2012 The Word | 139

The Final Say HE SAYS, SHE SAYS / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / ON THE STOOL

"Du khách đến Chợ Lớn đều thấy thất vọng với các nhà hàng Trung Hoa ở trên các con đường lớn, vì dường như ẩm thực Trung Hoa tuyệt vời lại có xu hướng nằm ẩn mình trong những góc khuất trên những con hẻm chằng chịt của khu Chợ Lớn" Haãi Saãn – naâo laâ nhûäng khoanh khoai mön haãi saãn ngoåt mùån àuã loaåi, baánh bao töm vaâ caã hoaânh thaánh chiïn theo phong caách thûác ùn nhanh cuãa Chêu Êu. Vaâo nhûäng ngaây Chuã Nhêåt, coân coá baánh thõt heo nûúáng (20,000 àöìng), baánh myâ keåp mïìm xöëp, têët caã àïìu àaáng àïí thûã. Cuöëi cuâng cho sûå ngaåc nhiïn, baánh myâ chiïn (20,000 àöìng) laâ möåt quaã cêìu troân troân, gioân ruåm, vúái haåt vûâng vaâ höîn húåp haåt sen ngoåt ngaâo.

Nam Nữ Cùng Ăn, Cùng Uống Xêím töëi, 7 Kyâ Quan (12 Ðûúâng 26, Q6) nùçm phña sau Metro Quêån 6 àaä chuêín bõ baãn húåp xûúáng cuãa caác moán ngon Trung Hoa. Ðêy laâ möåt trong nhûäng nhaâ haâng maâ thiïët kïë àûúåc quan têm nhêët cuãa Chúå Lúán, nhaâ haâng miïu taã àïìn Parthenon, àïìn Taj Mahal vaâ nhûäng kim tûå thaáp cuäng nhû caác Di Saãn Thïë Giúái khaác. Nhûäng ngûúâi tûâ Ðaåi Luåc cuä laåi thñch ngöìi úã sên thûúång – núi coá phong caách dïî chõu miïu taã Vaån Lyá Trûúâng Thaânh cuãa Trung Hoa. Caác moán ùn cuãa võ kiïën truác sû/ chuã nhaâ haâng coá quï quaán tûâ Triïìu Chêu laâ möåt trong nhûäng moán àñch thûåc nhêët trong thûåc àún, bao göìm möåt vaâi moán thõt om – miïëng thõt heo muöëi om (140,000 àöìng/280,000 àöìng/420,000 àöìng) thò daây vaâ mïìm, trong khi àoá moán haãi sêm om vúái nêëm (280,000 àöìng/ 520,000 àöìng/ 780,000 àöìng) àûúåc tin laâ moán truyïìn thöëng töët cho sinh lûåc. Chaã gioâ chiïn kiïíu Triïìu Chêu (140,000 àöìng/ 280,000 àöìng/ 420,000 àöìng) laâ möåt moán thuá

140 | The Word March 2012

võ tûúng tûå nhû moán chaã gioâ truyïìn thöëng cuãa Viïåt Nam. Moán xuêët sùæc nhêët trong thûåc àún laâ moán võt quay Bùæc Kinh (460,000 àöìng). Gioân ruåm vaâ thúm lûâng, cöng thûác vûúng giaã nhiïìu thïë kyã naây coá thïí aáp duång cho têët caã loaåi thuöåc hoå chim, chuáng seä àûúåc xeã phên loaåi vaâ àûúåc chia cho nhiïìu moán khaác nhau. Nûúác söët vaâ nhûäng laát thõt võt ài keâm cuâng moán chñnh – da võt àûúåc quay gioân vaâ àûúåc cuöån trong voã boâ bña cuâng vúái nhûäng coång haânh laá. Rêët khoá àïí tòm kiïëm möåt nhaâ haâng àûúåc àaánh giaá cao vïì êím thûåc Trung Hoa hiïëm. Gia Phuá (513/28-30 Gia Phuá, Q6) nùçm êín úã cuöëi con heãm nhoã bïn caånh àïìn Töí Cöng, do ngûúâi chuã àêìu bïëp 29 tuöíi – A Sheng, möåt thiïn taâi êím thûåc Phuác Kiïën vaâ laâ möåt trong nhûäng àêìu bïëp haâng àêìu àûúåc cöng nhêån trong khu vûåc. Toaân böå thûåc àún cuãa Gia Phuá laâ möåt têåp thú nhûäng moán ùn ngon nhêët cuãa Phuác Kiïën, nhûng moán àûúåc ngûúâi Hoa àõa phûúng thûúâng goåi laâ moán suáp vêy caá mêåp vaâ àùåc biïåt laâ "Phêåt Nhaãy Tûúâng". Moán naây (1.2/4.8 triïåu àöìng) coá nguöìn göëc tûâ möåt cêu chuyïån dên gian 1,300 nùm trûúác khi möåt nhaâ sû thúâi nhaâ Ðûúâng quaá bõ caám döî búãi muâi hûúng cuãa möåt loaåi suáp àïën nöîi öng nhaãy qua bûác tûúâng ngùn caách giûäa ngöi chuâa vaâ quaán ùn, röìi tûâ boã viïåc ùn chay cuãa mònh. Ðoá laâ möåt moán suáp thúm nöìng naân vúái möåt söë nguyïn vêåt liïåu hiïëm, soâ àiïåp coá trong moán àùåc biïåt mang laåi cho moán sûå àêåm àaâ khaác thûúâng. Nhûäng moán ngon Phuác Kiïën reã hún khaác

cuäng àûúåc liïåt kï trïn trang àêìu tiïn cuãa thûåc àún – boâ bña Phuác Kiïën laâ cuöën chaã gioâ bùçng voã boâ bña chûá khöng phaãi baánh traáng, vaâ khöng cêìn nûúác chêëm – giaá chó 12,000 àöìng möåt cuöën.

Tráng Miệng Theo Cách Của Bạn Giöëng nhû toaân böå thaânh phöë Höì Chñ Minh. Chúå Lúán khöng bao giúâ nguã. Ðaão quanh nhûäng con àûúâng nhöån nhõp vaâo buöíi töëi, rêët nhiïìu baån treã ngûúâi Hoa dûâng chên laåi buâng binh Trêìn Hûng Ðaåo vaâ Phuâng Hûng, gheá tiïåm cheâ Lam Thanh (goác Trêìn Hûng Ðaåo vaâ Phuâng Hûng, Q5), möåt quaán cheâ Quaãng Ðöng. Nhûäng thûác uöëng vaâ traáng miïång khaác thûúâng cuãa hoå coá nguöìn göëc tûâ caác cöng thûác thuöëc cuä, quan troång nhêët laâ moán cheâ thêåp cêím, àûúåc cho laâ möåt moán khûã àöåc hay nhêët. Nhûäng ngûúâi ài ùn khuya ngöìi caånh nhûäng chiïëc baân kim loaåi nùçm trïn lïì àûúâng, tay cêìm ly cheâ tröng nhû möåt bïí caá thu nhoã vúái àêìy àuã caác chuãng loaåi thûåc vêåt àang búi trong nûúác cheâ trong, ngoåt vaâ maát laånh – haåt sen vaâ cuã sen mêåp maåp, rong biïín, chaâ laâ, nhaän nhuåc, nêëm tuyïët, caác loaåi haåt, vaâ vaâi miïëng thaão dûúåc tröng giöëng nhû gûâng. Cho möåt muöîng vaâo miïång, sûå pha quyïån naây nheå nhaâng àaáng kinh ngaåc, möåt luöìng nûúác cheâ maát laånh cuâng vúái nhûäng haåt vaâ rïî cêy ngoân ngoåt, dai dai dïî chõu. Thêåt saãng khoaái, nhûäng ngûúâi ài ùn khuya nhaãy lïn xe vaâ hûúáng ra khoãi khu Chúå Lúán - noá seä vêîn àûáng àoá vaâ chúâ àúåi bònh minh.

THE FINAL SAY

He Says Women Are…

She Says Men Are…

Minh Do always carries his rule book, The Game, by his side and as a self-confessed player who knows the scene, he says there are three kinds of women when it comes to dating in Saigon. So, we gave him a chance to mouth oﬀ

We, at Word, are an equal opportunity publication. So we had to get the other side of the story from a woman’s perspective. While Stephanie Cantrell and Christine Van both agree that though there are many varieties of men out there, it’s still slim pickings

the independent-minded entrepreneur who may or may not live with her parents, but she's still got a curfew. There's everything in between from the ones fluent in English to the ones with no English at all.

The Native: Me Tarzan, You Jane

The Viet Kieu Broad: A Scary but Delightful Combo

Like Vietnam, local women have a lot to prove. They can be exquisitely sweet and really know how to take care of you. On the other hand, beware the whiney, nagging, needy side of them. It's a double-edged sword. But the plus is you'll really get to know Vietnam from the inside out. She'll challenge your perceptions, just be careful she doesn't pander to everything you think.

ith dating in Saigon, you've got some key stereotypical chicks you have to watch out for. What's best for you is definitely up to what you want out of dating in Saigon. Do you want to get to know Vietnamese culture or do you want a fulfilling balanced relationship? Do you want a wife? Do you want someone experienced or inexperienced? These are questions you're going to have to answer for yourself, despite the below.

The Viet Kieu girl is a combination of the desperate white westerner and the exotic Vietnamese girl. She knows Vietnamese, but she refuses to date Vietnamese men who are inherently chauvinistic. The danger is Viet Kieu women can be know-it-alls about a place they only moved to a year ago and a language they pretend to know. And yet, they combine the sexiness of a Vietnamese girl with the educated sophistication of a westerner. That means she's got style but she might be a bit higher maintenance.

The White Western Hussy: Desperate Yet Sophisticated In a world of hot young scantily clad Vietnamese girls, the white woman finds herself a white daisy in a sea of yellow orchids. Most western men come here hunting for the exotic tigress and completely ignore these pale-faced beauties. She'll be desperate, yet educated. She'll probably be an English teacher with lots of complaints about Vietnamese culture but with a thirst for adventure. She'll have high standards, but she'll be willing to try affordable eats for something different and exotic. But beware; you're not going to learn much of Vietnam from her, just a lot of her opinions on how things work.

The Local Flavour: Exotic Yet Inexperienced There's the virginal pretty girl up from a remote province a long bus ride away from Saigon. There's the foreign-educated Saigonite with a chip on her shoulder and a few foreign friends in her pocket. There's

142 | The Word March 2012

Size is often everything and for many, slightly larger women from overseas, Vietnamese men just don’t weigh up. Add language barrier to the equation and not even The Love Boat will dock at this port. What they lack in size they make up for in the woo-factor. Vietnam’s males know how to go all out — with flowers in hand and a Celine Dion song in their heart, these guys can romance the stars back into your eyes. However, in the cesspool that is the dating scene here, the Vietnamese man is

an anchovy among sharks. But hey, some people like anchovies on their pizza.

nothing romantic comes out of it, you’ve got a translator for life.

The Fusion Man: East Meets West

The Old Timer: Who’s Your Daddy?

Take exotic Asian eyes, black hair and brown skin, add western etiquette and culture, then mix equally for the perfect man. These blended specimens seem to do well with both the foreign and local girls, putting them in high demand and, along with their big ego, making them pretty hard to tie down. It’s definitely worth it trying to acquaint yourself with this breed because even if

Living on an overseas pension and surviving on beer, grandpa is usually identified by his bulging stomach hanging over the waistline and the young Vietnamese woman tagging along behind him. Armed with stories of wars or “how things used to be back in the days”, these old-timers are here to educate the country’s youth, albeit mostly women. They tend to marry a lot of them, too.

The Starry-Eyed Backpacker: Here Today, Gone Tomorrow These un-dateable, one-night guys come and go within the blink of a drunken eye. Sporting their Vang Vieng Tubing vests and a healthy tan, the gist of conversations tend to be, “Hello, Welcome to Vietnam!” followed by, “Don’t miss your bus trip,” the morning after. Their enthusiasm and excitement for all things ‘Nam is infectious and you’ll have them hanging on your every word with tales of life in Saigon. But don’t be too disappointed when they trek off to their next destination leaving you with nothing more than a hangover and a visit to the clinic.

The Others They range from teachers and entrepreneurs to businessmen and those with the first name “DJ”. The yellow-fever infected variety won’t give you the time of day, so busy are they living as big fishes in a small pond called Saigon. Not being able to find success and/or hot chicks in their home countries, they have stumbled over to Asia with their most valuable assets — their white skin and passport. Though it has been known to happen, don’t expect a long-term relationship. The transient lifestyle here calls for equally transient romantic liaisons. And the small social circles that exist in Saigon provide too much opportunity for awkward run-ins with past flames. Whichever type you end up dating, it's healthy to know that there are plenty of exceptions to the rule. Despite their tendencies, each of those men and women out there are unique unto themselves.

March 2012 The Word | 143

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144 | The Word March 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

uoi Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

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Street Index

Din h

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

SAYING "THANK YOU" AROUND THE WORLD 1

by Rehahn Photography

DOWN

Do you ow na photograp h that would look good here? Ema il it to christin e@ wordhcmc. com

1. Radio shock jock ____ lmus

3. What a car rolls on, to a Londoner

4. Frightened with threats

2. Alien spaceships 20 23

5. Color 27

6. Blouses and tank tops 7. Most slender

8. Japanese coin 39

41 45

9. DANKE

10. Constellation known as the Hunter 11. TERIMA KASIH

49 53

16. “I heard him exclaim ____ he drove out of sight…”

56 59

12. Office worker’s neckwear

18. Spiritual teacher

62 66

24. Region 25. “Cross my heart and hope to ____!” 27. ____ if I care!”: 2 wds. 28. Rose to one’s feet 29. OBRIGADO 31. Swiss mountain

Sunset at Hoi An bamboo bridge in Tra Que Village

ACROSS

39. KAMSA KAMIDA

33. Cowboy’s rope

1. DANK JEWEL

41. DZIEKUJE

34. ____ side of the coin

6. Crafty

43. Dust speck

36. 22nd letter of the alphabet

9. ____ alone (perform solo):2 wds.

44. Suffix with joy, thunder or venom

38. Suffix with project or percent

13. “Please, I beg ____!”. 2wds.

47. Halt

40. “____ will not!” (firm refusal): 2 wds.

14. ____-haw (donkey’s sound)

48. End of a university’s web address

42. Spanish for “eight”

15. Bert’s buddy on “Sesame Street”

49. KIITOS

45. German conjunction

17. TAKK

52. Neither here ____ there

46. Try to unstuff one’s nose repeatedly

1) Who founded the Greek theatre?

introduced in the UK?

19. Person in the passenger seat

53. Fish with long jaws and needlelike teeth

49. MERCI

20. Observe

55. Have for supper: 2 wds.

50. Single-file: 3 wds.

2) Who was the jeweller to the Russian Court, famous for making Easter eggs?

9) Who was the first French women's designer to design for men?

21. Big coffee container

57. 49-Down composer Gabriel ____

51. Eighteen-wheeler

22. Animal with big antlers

59. People to whom you are related: Abbr

54. Opera solos

3) Between 1659 and 1681 what was it illegal to celebrate in Massachusetts?

10) A fylfot is the heraldic name for what symbol?

23. Moved with sudden speed

60. Self-love

56. “Cool!”

26. Late Advice columnist Landers

63. Had a meal at home: 2 wds.

57. Craze

4) Who assassinated Robert Kennedy?

11) What is the common name for cercis canadensis, the state tree of Oklahoma?

27. African cobra

64. DANKIE

58. “Up and ____!” (“Rise and shine!”): 2 wds.

30. SPASIBO

67. Cul-____ (dead-end street): Hyph.

61. Struggle for breath

32. “Evil Woman” band, for short

68. ____-mo replay

62. Dollar bills

35. Cooking apparatus

69. On the ocean: 2 wds.

64. Barbecue residue

37. ____ Aviv, Israel

70. Open-textured fabric

65. Kit ____ (candy bar)

7) What was a sopwith camel?

38. “The time ____ hand”: 2 wds.

72. ____-turvy

66. Pronounce

8) In what year was the old age pension

146 | The Word March 2012

{triviabuff} Answers on page 2

5) What was Edwin Drake the first person to sink? 6) In 1959 who established a communist government in Cuba?

15) In what year was Joan of Arc burned at the stake? 16) What was the sacred animal of ancient Egypt? 17) In 1760, what means of personal transport was invented?

12) Who said, in 1951, "I married beneath me. All women do"?

18) What name did the Indians give the black soldiers that were fighting against them in the late 1800s?

13) Ian Fleming's house, Goldeneye was located in what country?

19) Who was ousted by Corazon Aquino in 1986?

14) Which King of France was known as the Sun King?

20) John Glen, the first American to orbit earth, was in what branch of the military?

March 2012 The Word | 147

on THE

STOOL

The affable Jean-Marcel Guillon wears many hats — doctor, restaurateur, father, CEO and aspiring jazz guitarist. The man of all trades plops on this month’s perch to tell us about his many sides. Photo by EJ Chung

Then getting people to trust the hospital and deliver what they expect of us. Attracting top Vietnamese doctors is also tough.

WHAT'S THE MOST COMPLICATED OPERATION THE HOSPITAL HAS EVER CONDUCTED? AND HOW SUCCESSFUL WAS IT? We recently put a team together to remove a huge tumour from a Vietnamese man and did it successfully. There have been other difficult procedures carried out at FV, almost all of them successful. This is a great joy for me.

WHAT IS THE TRAIT YOU MOST DEPLORE IN OTHERS? Insensitivity

ON WHAT OCCASIONS DO YOU LIE? Am I supposed to tell you the truth?

THE PERSON WHAT IS YOUR IDEA OF PERFECT HAPPINESS? Being able to completely trust the people you love.

WHAT IS YOUR GREATEST FEAR? Having some sort of debilitating condition that would prevent me from living as I want, or worse, from taking care of my two boys.

WHICH HISTORICAL OR LIVING FIGURE DO YOU MOST IDENTIFY WITH?

IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE THING ABOUT YOURSELF, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Only one thing? More gifted as a musician. More patient. Taller.

WHAT DO YOU CONSIDER YOUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT? At the moment FV Hospital, but I am working hard to make sure Leo and Enzo [my sons] become my greatest achievement.

HOW WOULD YOU LIKE TO DIE? Preferably quickly (not suddenly) so I have enough time to say bye to my relatives and to as many friends as possible. And when I am very old, in my own bed.

In my fantasy world — James Bond.

WHICH LIVING PERSON DO YOU MOST ADMIRE? A person very different from me — Jim Hall, the American jazz guitarist.

WHAT IS THE TRAIT YOU MOST DEPLORE IN YOURSELF? Irritability

148 | The Word March 2012

THE BUSINESS AFTER OVER A DECADE, FV REMAINS THE ONLY INTERNATIONAL STANDARD HOSPITAL IN HO CHI MINH CITY. WHAT HAVE BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES OF BOTH SETTING UP AND RUNNING IT? To convince people that what they thought was an "un-bankable" project was actually sound.

YOU'RE A BIG FAN OF MUSIC. IF YOU WEREN'T A DOCTOR, WOULD YOU HAVE BECOME A MUSICIAN? I would have loved to have been a professional jazz guitarist. I'm not sure I would have made a living out of it, though, because it's tough. There are so many good guitarists out there.

AS WELL AS YOUR ROLE AT THE HOSPITAL YOU PART OWN A BAR, ALIBI. ARE THERE ANY SIMILARITIES BETWEEN THE TWO BUSINESSES? There is a cafeteria and a coffee shop at FV, that's about all for the similarities. Alibi is about wines, good music, tapas and fine food. You don't find many of those at FV, unfortunately.

THE FRENCH HEALTHCARE SYSTEM IS ONE OF THE BEST IN THE WORLD. HOW WELL DO YOU THINK SUCH A SYSTEM WOULD WORK IN VIETNAM? HOW POSSIBLE WOULD IT BE TO IMPLEMENT SUCH A SYSTEM? French healthcare is based on a strong and rich social security system financed by all citizens; it would take a lot of work and energy to have something similar in Vietnam. It also has a network of modern hospitals throughout the country and not in only a few of the main cities, so Vietnam still has a long way to go to have the right structures in place. Vietnam would also need to establish tight control mechanisms to avoid abuse.