The Word Ho Chi Minh City May 2012

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION MAY 2012

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Contents

wordhcmc.com

MAY 2012

056

060

042 FEATURES 042 WHERE

DO YOU LIVE?

We find the answer among real estate developers, urban planners and the city’s residents

056 A

SPACE ODYSSEY

Public space is vital to the existence of any community. How well does Ho Chi Minh City cater for its residents?

060 OFF

068

THE BEAT MADRID

Often overshadowed by Barcelona, both as a travel destination and in football, Madrid is giving the former a run for its money

064 CUT

THE BEEF, ALREADY

Regardless of how you slice, dice and cut it, every bit of the cow makes for a uniquely delicious meal

068 PAINTING

THE TOWN

A new art tour reveals the more cultural and creative side of this city and its people

070 ACTING

UP

From creating drama and encouraging children to sing, cry and play around, the performing arts is a key to developing their confidence

072 THE

COMFORT ZONE

Get out of your work suit and into these comfy clothes, they’ll make going to bed a lot easier

076 ABODE

ACCENTS

Fill those empty corners and niches in your apartment with our colourful choices of homeware

2 | Word May 2012

072

Trivia Buff Answers See p162 for the original puzzle 1) Cheek To Cheek 2) Apple 3) Sir Stanley Matthews 4) The Clash 5) David Bowie 6) Nirvana 7) Muffin The Mule 8) Hydrogen 9) Grace Darling 10) Windsor 11) Telstar, by The Tornados 12) Beijing, China 13) 1913 14) November 15) Louis Armstrong 16) 1961 17) The Spirit Of St Louis 18) Switzerland 19) An insect’s external skeleton 20) Gary Barlow

008 l The Prelude THE TALK 011 l The Big Five 012 l Just In 018 l In the Papers 020 l The Buzz

090

024 l Word of Mouth 032 l Calendar 034 l Overscene INSIDER 038 l This Woman’s Work Disheartened by the corruption she witnessed while volunteering at orphanages around the world, Hillary Brown decided to set up her own

108

040 l In Her Majesty’s Service From trade to culture to supporting the British community, according to general consul Douglas Barnes, the UK has a big role to play in VIetnam

040

066 l Mystery Diner Following the footsteps of royalty, our critic tries a sandwich created

by Chilean President Sebastian Pinera with a second stop at a fusion restaurant in honour of the Ly Dynasty

114

HANOI

COLUMNS

148 l The Dreamweaver Transcribing prayers into calligraphy is an ancient tradition passed on through generations; Giang Phi Tuan tells us more about his job

090 l Destination Zero 096 l Travel Promos 108 l Foodie Corner

150 l Home is Where the Hearth is

114 l Cafe Critique

A collective of workers literally live and breathe everything to do with trains

116 l Food Promos 120 l Vietnam's Top 10 121 l For The Record

FINAL SAY

122 l Road Rules

158 l Go Native or Go Home

124 l Decks 'n' Drums 125 l In The Frame

Take our test to find out if you’re an ‘honorary local’ or not

160 l Map - Central HCMC

164 l On the Stool

CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET

4 | Word May 2012

148

When he isn’t thinking about music, DJ and music promoter Mark Jolly finds ways to combat ninja gerbils

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Crossword Answers See p162 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 137 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 13/04/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude T

hey say home is where the heart is.

They also say home is wherever you lay your hat. While such philosophical musings are all well and good, when it comes to the actual constructs people live in there’s a bit more to the notion of ‘home’.

For starters, having four walls and a roof helps. As does parting with those ever so valuable waifs of paper known collectively as money in exchange for those said walls and roof.

And in Ho Chi Minh City the physical definition of ‘home’ comes in varying shapes, colours, prices and sizes. Some of us are fortunate enough to choose where and what we live in, others are restricted in their choices, while some unfortunately

have no say in the matter.

From modest roadside shacks made of corrugated iron to time-defying French colonial villas and Chinese-built shop houses, to the more modern condominium and serviced apartment high-rises, these are the homes we live in.

Which brings us to this month’s cover story — Where Do You live? Special thanks must go to the people that welcomed us into their homes, as well as the city’s real estate, urban planning and development experts, for helping to provide a glimpse into the mechanics that determine where this city’s denizens live, what they live in, and why.

Not just peeping toms, we also go on a voyage of discovery through the more unchartered areas of

INBOX TENDING TO TOURISTS (Onward & Upward?, Feb. 2012)

I agree totally with your comments and would love to see Vietnam adopt the strategy like the Australian government for the Olympics. They adopted a programme for all the bodies that you mentioned and put them through a customer service and systems training programme to ensure they knew the right things to do to make tourists feel comfortable, from landing and visa, taxi, hotels, public transport, retailers and food, and all departments they may come into contact with. I have been developing one for here but have not yet looked at marketing yet but would be happy if you would be interested and want to discuss. — Mark W 8 | Word May 2012

Spain’s capital city, Madrid.

We improve our knowledge of Vietnam’s art scene by riding shotgun on the city’s latest art tour. We also get to know Douglas Barnes, the latest British consul general, ahead of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations next month. And that’s just the start of it.

So, wherever you keep your copy of Word — be it beside the bed, on your coffee table or in the office — we hope you like this month’s offering.

Oh, and if you get the chance, please go to www.wordhcmc. com to take our annual readership survey. It takes 15 minutes to fill in and in return for your time, we’re offering a host of great prizes.

As always, email any feedback to christine@ wordhcmc.com.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC HO CHI MINH CITY EDITION MAY 2012

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Design: DH Advertising

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL CHRISTINE AT christine@wordhcmc.com

IT’S CHOW TIME

(Eating Chinatown, Mar. 2012) What a great chow hunting report. Reading it makes my drool factor trajectory aim for the stars!

— Say Keng Lee

BEAUTIFUL BELARUS (Destination Zero, Nov. 2011)

I have to disagree with everything you've said about Belarus. It is one of the most beautiful countries that I had ever been to. Almost everyone speaks English there (especially the younger generations). The roads are just amazing; you can drive there with the speed of as much as 120 km/ hour, unlike Vietnam where the maximum speed is 60km/hour. The nature is just stunning — the lakes, the forests, the animals — everything is just so beautiful.

And the reason why the streets are "empty" is because the population is only 9.5 million people on such a huge territory. Belarus doesn't have restaurants on each corner, but the ones that they have are a really highquality. — P

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

THE

BIG

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

2

United We Stand, Divided We Fall

SPEAK UP & WIN

Cooperation and mutual awareness helps create community

M

any years ago Mike (name has been changed) was one of three people who tried to create a pool league. It started with two bars coming together on a Wednesday night, both sporting teams of seven, and playing once a week either away or at home. Despite the mutual support among certain quarters and the intensity and excitement of the matches themselves, the competition never quite took off. Other bars looked at getting involved — quickly it looked like the league would go from two teams to four. But the owners of the new bars refused to play away matches.

They didn’t want to lose revenue on a Wednesday night. Within two months the league ran out of steam and Mike decided to call it a day.

Such scenarios are typical of Vietnam, a country that, despite its inherent focus on community, can often place priority on short-term gains over long-term value. And yet when people do come together — as in Ho Chi Minh City’s darts league — the results are astounding. Now with three divisions, 28 teams, annual sponsorship from Tiger and well over 500 players, what started off primarily as a ‘foreigner’ sport

10 | Word May 2012

has now penetrated the local community — over half the darts players are Vietnamese.

And this is despite teams having to play ‘away’ from their designated bar — thus losing the bar revenue — once every fortnight. Move up to Hanoi, unfortunately, and the darts league there has been dormant for years.

with rotating text, a less complex version of the kind you may see on hoardings in huge stadiums. Within weeks the store next door has purchased the same sign and has tried to place it in a more visible position of that of their neighbour. The animosity is building up even higher as the Nguyens next door try to emulate and better their rivals.

Keeping Up With The…

Rivalry versus Cooperation

It’s not just in sport that cooperation or the lack of comes into play, but in business.

Let’s take another typical situation.

Two downtown convenience stores have been operating for years. They sell imported goods — anything from canned and frozen foods — through to fresh vegetables, fruit, bread, confectionary and more. But rather than working together and finding a way for them to have different product mixes, thus allowing each store to provide a greater range of goods to the market, they are in direct competition.

They miss out on one crucial point — work together and, as in the darts league, you can expand the market.

It comes to a head when before Tet one of the stores buys a huge neon electric sign

Now let’s get this clear. Rivalry is a good thing. Competition makes people try to improve and pushes them to get the upper hand. However, last month’s arrival in Saigon of two New York musical legends on the same night — Grandmaster Flash and Marky Ramone — was typical of how a lack of communication and cooperation can have a negative effect. The first problem was that they were in town on the same night, thus forcing the community to make a choice. But more importantly they missed out on an opportunity to market the events together. Such a strategy would have created a real buzz and would have not only benefited the city as a whole but both, individual businesses. Unfortunately it was not to be.

Comments, opinion and feedback, no matter how good or bad, it’s what every company or publication needs to help them adjust and get things right.

So, to get a sense of how you, the reader, feel about our publication, throughout May we’re running our annual online readership survey in conjunction with market research company Cimigo.

It takes just 15 minutes to complete and it’s a chance for you to have your say. And in return for filling in the survey we are offering up a range of prizes. Winners will receive anything from accommodations at a hotel through to food and drink vouchers at some of the city’s leading restaurants.

To take part and to have a chance of winning these prizes, go to www.wordhcmc.com and click on the top banner. And, as ever, a huge thanks!

ZAIYA IN SAIGON Acclaimed up-and-coming Australian artist Zaiya will embark on an exclusive five-date tour of Ho Chi Minh City this month.

Compared to likes of Katy Perry, Adele and Rhianna, Zaiya has performed with Darren Hayes' (formerly of Savage Garden) muscians and recently finished recording her forthcoming debut album, produced by Tom Nichols (Celine Dion, Kylie Minogue) and Dave Darling (Tom Waites, Meredith Brookes).

Zaiya will perform a selection of solo material and covers at Hard Rock Café (39 Le Duan, Q1) at 9pm on May 10 and 11, Vasco’s (74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1) at 9.30pm on May 12, Acoustic (6E1 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3) at 8.30pm on May 13, and at Yoko (22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3) at 8.30pm on May 15. Both shows at Hard Rock Café and Vasco’s carry a cover charge of VND100,000.

For more information, visit www. mwp.com.vn

4

1

PLEASE SIR, I WANT SOME MORE… THEATRE The New Theatre (TNT) returns to Vietnam this month with Adage Europe to bring Charles Dickens’ classic, Oliver Twist, to theatre lovers.

Critically lauded for its unique adaptation, the play is presented through the eyes of Fagin just before he’s hanged in the gallows.

Oliver Twist will be playing at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House on May 2, 3, 4 and 5 at 8pm, with 11am matinee performances on May 2, 3 and 4. Tickets are VND600,000/adult and VND300,000/student and can be purchased from the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House or ordered by emailing gma@best-creative-poetry.com.

SUCCESS AWAITS YOU The Antenna in Ho Chi Minh City of the French Institute in Vietnam and the Institute for Cultural Exchanges with France (IDECAF) present an exclusive live performance by French electro-rock group Success on May 29 at 8pm at IDECAF (31 Thai Van Lung, Q1).

Aiming to reconcile rock music with the dance floor, Success is led by the exuberant Mister Eleganz, and have performed over 100 shows across Europe. Touted as a revelation on the avant-garde festival circuit, the band’s 2007 single, Girl From New Orleans, was a huge hit on the web, while songs from their Hard To Come Back EP were featured on the soundtrack to the 2009 Hollywood blockbuster Zombieland.

Tickets cost VND100,000/adult and VND50,000/student and can be purchased from IDECAF.

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THE QUEEN’S DIAMOND JUBILEE

In honour of Queen Elizabeth II’s 60th anniversary as monarch of the UK, the BBGV and the British Consulate General will host a Diamond Jubilee party at the British International School Primary Campus (225 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2) next month.

Taking place on Jun. 3, expect a Great British family day of fun, games and live music. Attractions include British cuisine such as fish & chips, Cornish pasties, scotch eggs and chicken tikka masala, as well as a mini Olympic games, multiple children’s activities, and traditional fete/fairground events, including a treasure hunt, tombola, lucky dip, coconut shy and guess-the-sweets-in-the-jar.

The event costs VND450,000 per adult, and includes a raffle number, Jubilee souvenirs and F&B vouchers. Tickets for children aged 5 to 18 and nannies are priced at VND150,000. Children under 5 go free of charge.

To register in advance or for more info, visit www.bbgv.org. Tickets are on sale from May 16 and can be purchased from the BIS Senior Campus or the BBGV (Ground Floor, 25 Le Duan, Q1). Tel: 3829 8430

May 2012 Word | 11

Just In NIPPON DELIGHTS

A MUSICAL EDUCATION

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK

Kindermusik-UCEDA (UNESCO Center for Education Development Advisory) is opening its first early childhood education centre in Vietnam on the ground floor of Crescent Residence 2 this month. In an immersion environment, Music and Movement classes for children from birth to seven-years-old are available, including their award-winning ABC English & Music programmes, as aligned with CEFR, EYFS, NIEER, IB and adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City.

Contact Lauralynn A. Goetz at LGoetz@ kindermusik.com for more information

Wondering where to put your folks up when they’re in the capital? Well, a new, ten-bedroom boutique hotel has opened up on Hang Da, Hanoi, following in the footsteps of its sister hotel on Au Trieu.

Joseph’s Hotel has three superior, seven deluxe and three family rooms, priced from VND525,000 for a single/double superior, and VND735,000 for single/ double deluxe.

Joseph’s Hotel Hang Da is located at 6C Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi. Visit www. josephshotel.com or call the hotel on 04 3938 1048 / 0913 090446

IT’S TEA TIME Recently opened, Operation: TEA (335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3) will be serving their line of high quality teas from Japan, China and around the world, as well as traditional favourites such as English Breakfast and Jasmine. The new tearoom is located on the first floor of Yoga Meditation Center. Drinks start at VND35,000 for a cup or VND55,000 for a pot of tea. They will also be having a grand opening party on May 19 from 2pm to 5pm with free snacks and drinks.

20/20 VISION For those seeking clearer vision the American Eye Center Vietnam (AEC) has just opened at the Crescent Mall. With services that include LASIK surgery, glaucoma screening and treatment, eye injury treatment and more, AEC is the first eye care facility in Vietnam built in conformity with the high standards of the US. The centre is founded by Dr Nam Tran Pham, a graduate of Georgetown Medical School and an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of professional experience in the US. For more information, visit www. americaneyecentervn.com

12 | Word May 2012

A recent addition from the Land of the Rising Sun is Kabuto (45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1). Located within a minute’s walk from the Sheraton Hotel, this new Japanese restaurant offers halmaki of foie gras, their speciality kabutomushi (seafood steamed with torifoil) and popular Japanese-style curry dishes for lunch, with prices ranging from VND60,000 to VND400,000.

When the sun sets, Kabuto turns into a bar manned by a veteran bartender with 20 years of experience mixing cocktails.

A PEACEFUL COFFEE Shalom Coffee & Cocoa (53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2) is a new gourmet coffee and chocolate shop based at Riverside Apartments. Elias International, producers of the Shalom brand coffee, uses organically grown 100 percent pure Arabica coffee that contains no preservatives, flavours or additives.

The café is offering a Mad May promotion for readers of Word by giving 50 vouchers for 10 percent discount on drinks or 15 percent discounts on lunch for groups of two to four persons.

the talk IN DESIGN French design company E.I.G.H.T has opened up shop in Ho Chi Minh City.

E.I.G.H.T is a young, modern and creative collective created by Sasha Michel Vassay, a designer who has 25 years of experience in France and abroad.

For more information, visit www.8-eight.com

THE RACE IS ON VinaRacing has just opened up its first ATV track at Suoi Tien Park (120 Hanoi Highway, Q9) last month. Located on an area of 10,000m2, drivers will have the opportunity to drive on three courses.

They will provide 27 state-of-the-art ATVs from Kymco.

For more info, visit www.vinaracing.net

FIT FOR A GERMAN

ANOTHER FINE DINING OPTION Stix (15 Le Quy Don, Q3) is a new fine dining restaurant with a two-storey wine cellar and a wide selection of settings, including an al fresco terrace, lounge, openair rooftop, indoor semi-private booths and widely spaced common area within a fourstorey building.

The menu includes influences from China, India, Japan, Malaysia, Thailand, Singapore, and Vietnam. Within an extensive list of 100 items featuring live seafood, some of the chef’s signature dishes include fresh durian and seafood eggroll, and Singapore chili crab with sweet and spicy flavours.

NEW HOTEL IN TOWN The newly opened 247-room Novotel Saigon Centre (167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3) features an international buffet restaurant, The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar and a wellness centre which includes swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

The hotel's five meeting rooms offer the latest AV equipment and provide over 400sqm of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons.

Technical support teams are on standby to ensure the success of all corporate or social events.

14 | Word May 2012

The first German fitness and yoga centre in Saigon has opened this month with brand new and modern equipment developed by SportsArt. Fit24 (Thien Son Plaza, 800 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, www.fit24.vn) offers yoga, group fitness classes and sauna sessions.

A 12-month membership, priced at VND990,000, includes a free trial session, personal trainer, individual fitness programme, sauna, car parking and more. There will be no registration fee for the first 500 customers.

A SAMURAI IN HOI AN A cosy Japanese restaurant has recently opened in Hoi An. Consisting of only four tables, Samurai Kitchen (188A/5 Tran Phu, Hoi An) whips up home-style Japanese cuisine such as katsudon (rice bowl with deep fried pork cutlet, egg and sauce), karaage (deep fried marinated chicken), dashimaki (Japanese omelette), kakhi ghori (dessert with shaved ice with syrup), as well as a range of traditional curries without using any synthetic seasoning. Prices range from VND40,000 to VND120,000.

For a Passionate Cause Robert Stockdill meets several children benefiting from life changing operations provided by funds from the charity cabaret Moulin Rouge. Photo by EJ Chung

F

or most of the first two years of her life, Tran Bao Thy never smiled or played with other children. Thy was born with a birth defect that prevented her body from passing solids, suffering pain and embarrassment when going to the bathroom.

“When she ate she could not digest her food and she felt very uncomfortable,” recalls Thy’s mother Nguyen Thi Thui Hien. “She could not play with other children. She cried a lot and was very sad.”

Like many children suffering from congenital birth defects in rural Vietnam, Thy faced a bleak future before her plight came to the attention of Ho Chi Minh Citybased charity Children of Vietnam (www. children-of-vietnam.org).

Formed in 2006 in partnership between a leading Vietnamese media group and FV Hospital in District 7, Children of Vietnam has already helped 131 children undergo life-changing surgery — in some cases, without the charity’s support the children would have died.

When Thy’s plight became obvious, Hien was forced to give up her job in Vung Tau to provide full-time care, leaving father Tran Van Trung as the sole earner. Their extended family pulled together enough

16 | Word May 2012

money to fund treatment in a hospital close to home, but it could not ease her condition.

After being selected for the Children of Vietnam charity programme, visiting French surgeon Dr Godefroy De Miscault performed two operations to create a temporary anal passage for Thy and her condition began to improve immediately.

During the next year she gained 4kg in weight and became mobile.

“Now after her surgery she can play and she can run and jump. Before it was too painful for her,” smiles Hien. “We are so grateful.”

Hien is now back working. A kindergarten teacher, she can take Thy with her each day and continue to help her with restroom visits until her next operation in March 2013. That surgery, already scheduled and funded by the charity, means a permanent solution, allowing Thy to live the life of a normal child and progress into adulthood.

Double Trouble For Nguyen Van Tho and Tran Thi Lien, the challenge of finding medical support was doubly hard — they had twins Tan Loc and Phat Loc, both with the same serious colonic

condition making it hard to pass stools and causing significant malnutrition. Today, after surgery from Dr De Miscault, they, too, are as active as normal children their age.

The cost of surgery for children like Thy, Phat Loc and Tan Loc is high, explains fund director Le Phi Phung: in the twins’ case, about VND36 million each, in Thy’s VND51 million with another operation yet to come.

Other children helped by the programme suffer from conditions including cleft palates, misshapen hands, serious hernias or crippling bone deformations. Even though FV halves the fees for the cases, surgery can cost from VND42 million to VND210 million.

Phung says the charity raises money from generous expats, corporate support and fundraising events. There is a facility for people to choose a child in need to sponsor, or to donate to the general pool.

Children of Vietnam will hold a fundraising event at the Sheraton Hotel on Jun 2.

Passionate Kiss at Moulin Rouge is a dinner/ cabaret limited to 300 guests, with a cover charge of VND3.15 million a ticket. All the proceeds will go towards helping children like Thy. For bookings, email vy.pham@fvhospital. com or phone 0908 477993.

In the Papers

the talk

Joseph’s Hotel

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

CABBY SCAMMED INTERPOL, JAILED FOR FIVE YEARS Last month a court in Hanoi sentenced 23-year-old Pham Van Xam to five years behind bars on charges of “theft” and “illegally taking the private property of others”. Xam ripped off two Singaporean Interpol delegates on a ride to the 80th Interpol Assembly meeting in Hanoi last October.

The victims were forced to pay VND6 million for a ride of just 10km that should have been only VND150,000.

Xam was arrested on Nov. 6 by nearly a dozen police while he was harvesting coffee in remote Dak Nong Province in the Central Highlands.

A VIETNAMESE BUYS AMERICAN TOWN FOR US$900,000 The town of Buford, Wyoming — population one — was sold for US$900,000 to an unidentified buyer from Vietnam last month after an 11-minute Internet auction that attracted worldwide interest.

The tiny Western town garnered online viewers and bidders from 46 countries for the sale of four hectares of land with a convenience store, gas station and modular home located in south-eastern Wyoming.

The buyer, who wished to remain anonymous, flew to Wyoming from Vietnam for a purchase he likened to “the American dream”.

“Owning a piece of property in the US has been my dream,” the buyer said in a statement.

TSUNAMI WARNING STATIONS OPEN

A NEW HOSPITAL OPENS IN TOWN Hoan My Sai Gon Premier general hospital was inaugurated in Ho Chi Minh City in March. The private hospital, covering an area of 2,168 sqm, was built at a cost of nearly VND700 billion.

Nguyen Huu Tung, CEO of the Hoan My Medical Group, said that the 200-bed hospital has 42 consulting-rooms and 8 surgery rooms, and is capable of serving 2,000 patients a day.

The hospital has 544 staff, including 124 doctors.

At present, Ho Chi Minh City has 101 hospitals including 34 private ones.

18 | Word May 2012

GOOGLE, FACEBOOK TO HAVE REP OFFICES IN VIETNAM? Google and Facebook may have to open representative offices in Vietnam to provide their services locally, if the Vietnamese communication ministry’s latest draft decree gets approved.

Under the draft decree announced by the Ministry of Information and Communication, foreign businesses providing cross-border public information for a majority of users in Vietnam will have to establish representative offices here.

The businesses are also required to make pledges in writing to cooperate with local authorities in removing information that violates Vietnamese laws, including anything that is against the authorities, damages social and national security and promotes violence.

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

Tsunami warning stations will be built in coastal areas and islands with large populations in 13 provinces and cities, according to a project that has just been approved.

In the 2013 to 2014 period, the system will be developed in Da Nang and the provinces of Quang Nam, Quang Ngai, Binh Dinh, Phu Yen, Khanh Hoa and Ninh Thuan.

In the following years, additional stations will be set up in Ha Tinh, Quang Binh, Quang Tri, Thua-Thien Hue, Binh Thuan and Ba Ria-Vung Tau Provinces.

The Global Physics Institute in Hanoi is responsible for monitoring and analysing the information collected from the stations and is the sole agency responsible for issuing tsunami watch decisions.

SALARY BUMP FOR STATE EMPLOYEES The minimum monthly salary for state employees will rise by 26 percent to VND1.05 million starting May 1, according to a new decree.

The minimum salary will apply for employees in government organisations and one-member limited companies owned by the state. The previous rate, VND830,000, has been in place since last May.

May 2012 Word | 19

The Buzz A Gallic Affair The next French Bazaar will take place at Tia To Garden Restaurant (26 Le Van Mien, Q2) on May 5 from 9am to 2pm.

Organised by the French Association in Vietnam, a host of vendors will be selling decorative features, jewelry, clothes for children and adults, hats and accessories. There will also be a tearoom serving French pastries. Part of the proceeds raised will go to the AFV Charity orphanage.

For more information, call Dominique on 090 601 1390

Transformers in Disguise A Transformative Disguise, a solo travelling exhibition by Ho Chi Minh City-based artist, Le Hoang Bich Phuong, co-produced

by San Art and the Japan Foundation, is now on display at San Art (3 Me Linh, Q1) until May 25.

A series of portraits in silk, representing the artist, include various strangers and friends both real and imagined, wear the facial mask of particular animals — donkeys with buckteeth possess skeletal hands; an old bear towers like an oversized hooded jacket over a young child’s face; a pig sits sickly with a dripping and swelling red nose, among others.

This exhibition is the artist’s first solo show and will be accompanied by a fullcolour catalogue. It will show in Hanoi from Jun. 28 to Jul. 27 at 27 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi.

For details, email hello@san-art.org

Pinoy Power

Requiem for a Dream

The Filipino community in coordination with Samahang Pinoy sa Vietnam (SAPI) is showcasing artworks of some 30 Filipino artists; those based in Vietnam and abroad, in Ho Chi Minh City in an 11-day long exhibition entitled Pinoy Ako. This two-part celebration will happen from Jun 12 at 6pm with a press conference at the Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (97A D Pho Duc Chinh, Q1) where the artworks can be viewed until Jun. 14. The second exhibition will be at Geisha Café (85 Pasteur, Q1) and at the Metropolitan Building (opposite the Notre Dame Cathedral) from Jun. 16 till Jun 23.

For more info, contact organiser Jensen Moreno at www.jensenmoreno.com

The International Choir & Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City’s upcoming spring concert will feature Mozart’s Requiem.

Held at 7.30pm on May 25 and 26, this special event will take place at the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music (112 Nguyen Du, Q1). Tickets are available for VND200,000, VND350,000 or VND500,000 and can be purchased at the Conservatory of Music, Mekong Merchant (23 Thao Dien, Q2), or booked online at www.hcmcchoir. com for delivery.

A silent auction will be held shortly before the concert and all proceeds from the event will go to support Poussiers de Vie (Dust of Life) and the Loreto VietnamAustralia Foundation.

A BBQ for Charity

7 at 7 To celebrate its seventh year of operations in District 7, The Tavern (R2-24 Hung Gia 3 Bui Bang Đoan, Q7) will host a birthday bash on May 18. Revellers can enjoy live music provided by Risky Red, a lucky draw, complimentary finger food and drinks throughout the night.

Contact Tracy or Truc at 5410 3900 for more information

20 | Word May 2012

A backyard BBQ fundraising party is being held by ILACN, a charity component of ILA, at KOTO (151A Hai Ba Trung, Q3) on Jun. 17 from 7.30pm to midnight.

For VND300,000 guests will receive delicious BBQ food, complimentary drinks upon arrival, free entry to the lucky draw, 15 percent off Cat Moc Spa services, live music and a chance to win prizes with raffle tickets.

Proceeds of the event will go towards renovation for the kitchen and the bedroom areas for two shelters — The Little Rose Warm Shelter and the Green Bamboo Shelter — to avoid flooding in the upcoming rainy season.

For more information, email ilacn@ilavietnam.com

the talk

NEW YOGA FUN

SAILING AWAY

Marc Bauchet, a certified AcroYoga instructor is bringing a new form of fitness to town. AcroYoga is a combination of acrobatics, Thai massage and yoga.

Marc Bauchet (yogatherapie.blogspot.com) is a certified AcroYoga teacher from France.

With a martial arts background he began his yoga and AcroYoga journey 10 years ago.

Workshops are available from Jun. 2 to 3 and all levels are welcome. The sessions are priced at VND735,000 for one workshop, VND1.26 million for two, VND1,785,000 for three and VND21 million for all. Early birds get VND105,000 off for payment before May 15. Morning sessions are at The Deck while afternoon ones are at Yoga Meditation Centre.

Email Daphne Chua at yogadaphne@gmail. com for more information

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang will host the first official event within the Regatta Series programme of 2012-2013 on Jun. 2 and 3 on the beach of the resort.

The sailing championship, organised by High Tide, will consist of four events over the year to support the growth of sailing in Vietnam. Each event caters both to experienced sailors and beginners. There are new classes of sailboats including HTR460, 4.4m long with hiking ladders and double trapeze, and the 3.5m long RS Q’Bas that will launch at the resort.

Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang is also sponsoring two vouchers of two night’s accommodation in one of their luxury deluxe sea view beachfront rooms for the first prize couple winner.

For more information, email reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com

UP YOUR SERVICE For those in the service industry, take note.

The ERC Institute Vietnam will be hosting a customer service seminar on Jun. 29 with keynote speaker Ron Kaufman. Kaufman is one of the world’s most sought-after speakers on achieving superior customer service and uplifting service cultures.

His workshop is entitled UPLIFTING SERVICE - The Proven Path to Delighting Your Customers and Colleagues and Everyone Else You Meet. His clients include Singapore Airlines, HSBC, Hong Kong University and many more.

The cost of attendance is VND12 million per person, early bird (before May 15) is VND9 million and group of 5 or more is VND8 million/pax, and includes refreshments, a buffet lunch and a signed copy of Ron’s latest book Uplifting Service.

The seminar lasts from 8am to 4pm at The Sheraton Hotel.

For more info, visit www.erci.edu.vn

22 | Word May 2012

SMILING FOR A CAUSE The 16th Operation Smile charity art auction and gala dinner will take place at the Park Hyatt Hotel Saigon (2 Lam Son Square, Q1) from 6.30pm on May 26.

Tickets cost VND2,600,000/person and VND26 million/table of 10, and include a cocktail reception, gala dinner, live and silent auctions, raffle prizes, live music and free flow of drinks and wine.

All proceeds from the event will go towards helping children born with facial deformities get the operations they need.

To purchase tickets and for more information, contact Huong Tra (091 267 9495 / huongtra.ho@ operationsmile.org) or Jakki Lydall (090 339 5760 / jakkilydall@hotmail.com)

the talk

the talk

BACK ON STAGE

SOLO IN VIETNAM Galerie Quynh (65 De Tham, Q1) will be presenting French artist Truc-Anh’s first solo exhibition in Vietnam from May 10 to Jun. 9. Entitled CROIRE / DOUTER, the exhibition explores the flux of certitude and ambiguity inherent in ideas of dichotomy and paradox.

From the troupe that brought The Importance of Being Earnest last year, Dragonfly is collaborating with the International Choir & Orchestra to bring a musical to the stage next month.

Titled The Last 5 Years and described as “an emotional journey from ‘love at first sight’ to ‘division of property’”, the production is targeted at a more mature audience. For the latter part of 2012 Dragonfly has scheduled a production for kids based on an adaptation of The Little Prince.

The Last 5 Years will be performed at 5B Theatre (5B Vo Van Tan, Q3) on May 11 at 8pm and May 12 at 2.30pm and 8pm.

Tickets can be purchased via tickets@ dragonflyvietnam.com or at the theatre.

Indulge yourselfat Shang Palace.

Imagine a delightful lunch with over 50 different kinds of Hong Kong Dim Sum…

1st Floor , 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 Fax: (84 8) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn www.shangpalace.com.vn

TIME FOR SCHOOL The Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS) is giving parents and kids a chance to meet RISS’s head of school and tour its facility on Jun. 2 from 9am to 1pm. This is an opportunity to have your questions answered, interact with the teachers and enjoy food and refreshments all at the same time.

For more information, visit www. rissaigon.edu.vn

SUMMER IS A BALL The Saigon Children’s Charity fourth annual Saigon Summer Ball will take place on Jun. 1 from 7pm to 1am at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers (88 Dong Khoi, Q1).

Tickets cost VND2,700,000/person and VND27 million/table of 10, and include a champagne reception, a five-course dinner, live music, premium wines and spirits, and assorted prizes.

Funds will to be raised to help support the development work of Saigon Children’s Charity.

For more information, contact Ms Phuc on 090 311 7006 or Ms Freddi on 012 3815 7508, or visit www.saigonchildren.com

24 | Word May 2012

May 2012 Word | 25

Word of Mouth

the talk

AT YOUR SERVICE A DRINK FOR ROYALTY Along with offering the latest in Thai fashion, Ethopen (89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1) has introduced a new drink called Princess Soda (VND135,000) that is made from syrup, fruit and soda. This month, customers who buy a Princess Soda will be enrolled in their ‘buy one get one’ promotion programme.

Quan Bui Restaurant (8 Nguyen Van Linh, Q1) has announced the opening of its new terrace garden patio, terracotta tiled balcony, and free-to-hire private room, complete with air conditioning, for groups and parties.

Also, Quan Bui is now offering a range of new catering services for parties, receptions, and buffets at any location, complete with crockery and waiter service (upon request).

For more details, call Mr Danh on 3602 2241 or 012 8625 2351.

HEY, SHORT STUFF For all budding directors out there, the upcoming Saigon Student Film Festival (ShortSStuFF) is a showcase of student short films and is open to those from seven to 18-years-old. This year’s theme is ‘dreams’ and filmmakers are invited to explore this theme any way they consider relevant. Submissions are due by May 29. The screening will take place on Jun. 7.

For more details, visit www.saigonstudentfilmfestival.com

ABOVE ZERO TEES FOR TIX Vietnam’s professional basketball team Saigon Heat will give a free Heat t-shirt (worth VND250,000) to every person that purchases a ticket to one of their next two home games on May 2 and May 9.

To register for this offer, call the Saigon Heat ticket hotline on 0912 241511 or send an SMS with the words “Saigon Heat” to 8645. Alternatively, head down to Tan Binh Stadium (18 Xuan Hong,Tan Binh).

All hotline and SMS bookings will be able to receive their ticket and tee at Tan Binh Stadium on May 2.

For more information, visit www. saigonheat.com

Zero Bar & Restaurant (15 Dong Du, Q1) is offering a host of events and promotions throughout May. May 2 & 16: Enjoy Wednesday Dinner ‘n’ Jazz/Blues with Lindsay Erdman’s Sugarbowl Jazz Trio from 7pm (music commences at 8pm).

May 6: Keith from OL’55 in Australia will perform a hit-laden set of tunes from the 60s, 70s and 80s from 4pm, with happy hour drinks running from 4pm to 5pm.

May 9 & 23: Keith from OL’55 returns for a night of live rock and country music starting from 8pm. Dinner from 7pm with tasting plates available.

May 13 & 27: Join Lindsay Erdman for an afternoon of jazz and blues from 4pm downstairs at the bar. Snacks available at the bar and happy hour from 4pm to 5pm.

May 20: That man Keith just can’t stay away from Zero, and will be providing the music entertainment with an afternoon of rock n’ roll.

Happy hour from 4pm to 5pm.

Bookings are a must as space is limited. For more details, call 3822 4593 or email info@zerorestaurant.com

YOGA BY THE BEACH An all inclusive weekend yoga and meditation retreat will be hosted by Saigon Yoga from May 25 to 27. Starting from VND8.19 million, it includes transportation, accommodation, food and classes at Mia Resort Mui Ne. The yoga classes will be suitable even for first time practitioners.

Contact info@saigonyoga.com for more information

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May 2012 Word | 27

the talk ANSWER TO WIN! With the Phu Quoc Half Marathon fast approaching on Jun. 17, Sporting Republic is offering two free registration slots for two lucky readers that answer the following question: The Phu Quoc Half Marathon is hosted by what resort?

Send in your answer to christine@ wordhcmc.com before May 15 with the subject heading “The Phu Quoc Half Marathon”.

The three events scheduled are the main race of 21km, plus the shorter 10km run and a 5km fun run finish.

Visit www.pqmarathon.com for more information

A BIGGER BREATH Hog’s Breath Café (Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1), an Australian chain known for serving hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers and prime rib steaks have just extended their outdoor terrace along with incorporating a beer garden into the design.

OFF THE ROAD Vietadventure and Full Moon Village will organise the 11th edition of the off-road triathlon in Phan Thiet on May 26.

More than 200 triathletes, aged from 6 to 60, are expected to compete. In conjunction, Full Moon Village (Suoi Nuoc Beach, Mui Ne) will offer guests a stay-three-nights-get-one-night-free promotion throughout the summer.

For more information, visit www.fullmoon-village.com

May 2012 Word | 29

Wired Sweating it Out Sweat-Working is a perplexing trend which has been erupting in boardrooms and offices throughout Los Angeles, New York, London, and more recently, Singapore and Hong Kong. The idea is to replace the normal business networking events, heavy with food and drink, with active events that focus on improving not only mind, but body as well. Gone are the days of wining and dining clients to bounce around ideas.

The gym is now the place to do business.

The original Sweat-Working was a community created in New York City by Sarah Siciliano.

Her online blog sweat-working. com documents the activities, classes and experiences of the craze. The site is full of shoutouts from clients, tips on yoga or spinning and other strenuous activities that suddenly make the gym seem like an even more powerful place. Health conscious business types can log on to explore the detox tricks, health tips and resistance boosting recipes that like-minded individuals have posted.

From the ether to reality, the fad has gone global.

International gyms are creating ‘learn and burn’ seminars, where you pick up business tips as well as a work out. If Sweat-Working catches on in our neck of the woods, it’ll be a great way to see old business friends orbiting throughout Saigon, and to throw out some business cards to potential new acquaintances.

All that business aside, who wouldn’t want to see their coworker in some spinning shorts?

Check out the Sweat-Working blog for ideas and inspiration at www.sweat-working.com

30 | Word May 2012

Same Same

Flying for Less To welcome the opening of Emirates Airlines’ new route commencing on Jun. 4, Flight Travel will offer a five percent discount applicable for tickets issued from Jun. 1 to 9 Other offers include discounts up to five percent for Emirates flights valid until June 2012, or discounts of three percent on market fares of Emirates flights from now to Jun. 30.

For more information, visit www.flightravelco.com

An exhibition of visual artworks dubbed 'From Melbourne to Ho Chi Minh City: Same- Same' will be brought to residents of Ho Chi Minh City by the Australian Consulate-General and the City of Melbourne. The exhibition will be held at the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University (05 Phan Dang Luu Street, Binh Thanh) from May 10 to 20.

Each piece expresses the artist’s individual issues and aspirations, the use of similar concepts and aesthetic methods by artists from both cities highlights visual art’s ability to transcend cultural and geographic boundaries.

For more information, please email Ms Hang at chau-thuy.hang@ dfat.gov.au

Here’s to Your Health International SOS Clinic has launched a new health check package designed with your household staff in mind.

The programme priced at VND1.2 million is especially recommended for those involved in food preparation and handling, as well as those who provide childcare. As an add-on option to this package, get 20 percent off the seasonal flu vaccination for your staff when they have a health check at the clinic.

International SOS Clinic is located at 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

MAY CALENDAR MON

TUE

01

WED

02

VND120,000 food and drink sunset specials at Chill, 5.30pm to 8.30pm, Monday to Thursday

Saigon Players Club Night. Every first Wed. of the month at La Habana. Email saigonplayers@gmail.com for info

07

A Transformative Disguise. From Apr. 26 to May 25 at San Art. Email hello@ san-art.org for ino

Free Beer Mondays. 6pm to 7.30pm every Mon. at BoatHouse

08

Ladies' Day - free drink for ladies. Every Tue. at Tamagoo

Zumba Dance Classes. 6.30pm to 7.30pm every Mon., Wed. & Fri. at the Tavern

Happy Hour with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

Salsa classes at 7.30pm & Romantic Night with Carmen & Brothers at 8.30pm. Every Mon. at La Habana

Happy hour – all draught beers for VND30,000. From 5pm to 7pm Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

14

Croire/Douter. From May 10 to Jun. 9 at Galerie Quynh. Email lisa@galeriequynh. com for info Salsa Classes at La Habana.

Every Mon. at 7.30pm

VND42,000 Bacardi and Coke, VND160,000 jugs of Mojito. 5pm every Mon. at Le Pub

28

09

50% Off on any 2nd Prime Rib Steak. From 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hog’s Breath

Happy hour. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Thu. at Koh Thai

Live acoustic night. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

22

Buy 1 pizza get 1 free. From 5pm to 9pm every Tue. at Hog’s Breath

VND21,000 Vodka drinks. 5pm every Tue. at Le Pub

Happy Hour. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

29

Success performs. 8pm at IDECAF. Email paule.ignatio@diplomatie.gouv. fr for info

03

THU

5 Day Shamballa Transformation Workshop. From May 3, email info@saigonyoga.com for info

Zaiya’s performances.

9pm on May 10 & 11 at Hard Rock Café, 9.30pm on May 12 at Vasco’s, 8.30pm on May 13 at Acoustic, and 8.30pm on May 15 at Yoko.

Visit www.mwp.com.vn for info

Happy Hour. From 5pm to 9pm every day at Bacchus Corner Rock & country music by Keith from OL’55.

8pm, May 9 & 23 at Zero

Ladies Night with Carmen & Brothers’ Live acoustic.

8.30pm ever Wed. at La Habana

CanCham The Breakfast Club. 7am to 9am at Jaspas. Email hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org for info

Lindsay Erdman’s Sugarbowl Jazz Trio. 7pm, May 2 & 16 at Zero

23

Happy Hour. 4pm to 7pm every day at Pasha

17 Happy hour.

From 2pm to 7pm everyday at Chile House (42 Bis Tran Quoc Thao, Q3)

24

Saigon Players Script Night. Every third Wed. of the month. Email saigonplayers@ gmail.com for info Liquid performs at Nightspot, Sheraton. 9pm from Tue. to Sun.

31

Happy Hour with house wine, beer and complementary appetisers. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

Kick Boxing and Body Combat.

5.30pm to 6.30pm every Thu. & 10am to 11am every Sat. at the Tavern

Ladies’ Night. Every Thu. at Bootleg

Tapas Fiesta & Wine through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

Battered Barramundi & Prawns for VND200,000. From 5pm to 9pm every Thu. at Hog’s Breath

Happy Hour - Half Price Drinks.

5.30pm to 8.30pm from Mon. to Fri. at Xu

SBA Meeting. Every last Thu. of the month at Vasco’s. Visit www. swissvietnam.com

32 | Word May 2012

FRI

05

Oliver Twist.

From May 2 to May 5, 8pm at the Opera House.

Email gma@bestcreative-poetry. com for tickets

SAT Cocktail masterclasses every Sat. at Koh Thai. Call 0918 264389 for info

Live Latin Music. 8pm every Sat. at Khoi Thom

Mr. 10, Navin, Icee & Justin Murta. 9.30pm every Sat at Xu

Leyote Taylor. 11pm from Mon. to Fri. at MZ & 10pm every Sat. at Thi Café

11

12

Happy Hour. 5pm to 8pm every day, except Sun. at Alibi

Shamballa Teacher Training Course. May 10 to May 12, email jamesmcglasson@ gmail.com for info The Last 5 Years at 5B Theatre (5B Vo Van Tan, Q3). May 11 at 8pm & May 12 at 2.30pm and 8pm. Email tickets@dragonflyvietnam.com for tickets

18

Salsa classes at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

Live Music. 6.30pm every Wed. at Al Fresco’s Thao Dien

30

04

AusCham HCMC Sundowners. 6pm at Strata. Visit www.auschamvn.org for info

10

15 VND120,000 food and drink sunset 16 specials at Chill, 5.30pm to 8.30pm, Monday to Thursday Blind Test. 9pm every Tue. at Ala Mezon

21

Steak & Ale Combo for VND200,000.

From 5pm to 9pm every Wed. at Hog’s Breath

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than May. 18 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

Friday Fiesta. 9pm at La Habana

Breakfast & Brunch plus Buckets of Corona for VND340,000. From 9am to 2.30pm every weekend at Hog’s Breath

19

Prime Rib Steak & Crayfish Combo for VND500,000. From 5pm to 9pm every Fri. at Hog’s Breath

CanCham Dart Challenge Tournament. 2pm at Red Lounge.

Email hcmc@canchamvietnam. org for info

06

‘60s, ‘70s and ‘80s music by Keith from OL’55. 4pm at Zero When I Grow Up. 3pm at Dancenter.

Visit www.dancentervn.com for details Happy hour drinks. 4pm to 5pm at Zero

13

Friday drinks. 4pm every Fri. at Vino

20

Maeve & Dave.

9.30pm every Fri. at Thi Café

Happy hour drinks. 4pm to 5pm at Zero

Cooking class. Apr. 8 and 22 at Koh Thai. Call 0918 264389 for info

Rock n’ roll afternoon with Keith from OL’55 at Zero

26

Cat Woman. 9pm every Fri. at Xu Set lunch for VND160,000. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

Saigon Swing Club and Relaxing Night with Carmen & Brothers. 7pm every Sun. at La Habana

Life Drawing Jazz & blues Workshop. 9am afternoon with every Sun. at Lindsay Erdman.

Pandora Studio Café (2A Nguyen 4pm, May 13 & 27 Van Cu) at Zero

7th Birthday Anniversary at the Tavern. Call 5410 3900 for info

25

SUN 3 + 1. 8pm every Sun. at Juno Corner (76 Mac Dinh Chi)

Operation Smile’s 16th Annual Auction & Gala Weekend Yoga & Meditation Retreat. May Dinner. 6.30pm at Park 25 to May 27, email info@saigonyoga. Hyatt. Email huongtra.ho@ operationsmile.org for info com for info

27

Sunday Session and Pool Party.

20% discount when you top up your VIP card. At Hog’s Breath

Sirloin & All You Can Eat Shrimp. Every Sun. at New York Steakhouse

Sunday Paellas & Happy Hour.

12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

SUN

SCENE

PHOTOS BY KHOA TRAN

OVER

STARCITY SAIGON WINE TASTING The hotel’s Vino Veritas Lounge hosted an evening of gourmet nibbles and wine tasting with a selection of French reds & whites from the award-winning Chateau Cabezac estate

THA TRICKAZ AT VASCO’S

PHOTOS BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

The masked duo from Paris got Vasco’s blue room bouncing to an MPC-fuelled set of electro and hip-hop beats

The old PhuTho Racecourse was bombarded by a stampede of galloping music lovers as 30,000+ turned out to see Kimberly Caudwell, Big Bang and Taio Cruz headline Vietnam’s largest ever music festival

PHOTOS BY EJ CHING

SOUNDFEST

PHOTO BY CHARLES BERNES

One of the city’s most hotly anticipated social events of the year took place at Riverside Apartments with guests indulging in some high quality, Kiwi-produced food, wine and entertainment

DANNY RAMPLING @ BLANCHY’STASH UK house music veteran Danny Rampling proved that time hasn't diminished his skills behind the decks as a packed-to-the-rafters Blanchy's Tash played host to the 199s icon

34 | Word May 2012

May 2012 Word | 35

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

NEW ZEALAND FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Insider

THIS WOMAN'S WORK / IN HER MAJESTY'S SERVICE / WHERE DO YOU LIVE? PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

CHARITY CORNER

This Woman's Work When volunteering wasn’t enough, Hillary Brown took on the challenge of starting her own charity. Words by Lyra Dacio.

"I

never was a good expat wife,” Hillary Brown, co-founder and executive director of Helping Orphans Worldwide, says matter-offactly. She didn’t want to be a conventional stay-at-home spouse. In the 14 years she’s been globetrotting wherever her husband’s work takes her, from Eastern Europe and Israel to Southeast Asia, she always found an orphanage to volunteer at.

But when she saw firsthand the negligence, malpractice and even

38 | Word May 2012

corruption of some charitable organisations she decided to stop volunteering altogether.

In 2007, the owner of the company her husband was working for trusted her with funds to start her own organisation.

However, prior to setting up her own charity, Hillary needed to learn the operation behind it so she got in touch with Father Shay Cullen. Fr Shay has more than 30 years of experience working with the Peoples’ Recovery Empowerment and Development Assistance Inc.

(PREDA) Foundation (www.preda.org) in the Philippines, whose main goal is to save children from abuse, prison and exploitation. He urged Hillary to use her passion and ability to make a change in places where there is no “Fr Shay”.

Why Vietnam?

An Irish friend working and living here told her that Vietnam may be the right place. “I went to check it out and was hooked on the culture, the children, the

elderly and the people in need,” Hillary explains.

And so, in 2008, Helping Orphans Worldwide (HOW) began its work in Vietnam. “I was also in love with the way people who could help and had nothing really wanted to help; and those who had less, gave more,” she adds.

In 2010, HOW, in conjunction with the Starfish Program from the Philippines, helped several children receive everything from heart surgery, cleft palate and jaw surgery to omphalocele surgery, plus much more.

Another priority of the Starfish Program and the centerpiece of HOW’s operations is Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) Awareness.

When asked why they focus on this rare genetic skin disease, Hillary explains that “there is a lot going on about EB all over the world. Lots of research is being done, and in Vietnam there are prevalent cases in the north. However, cases in the south are misdiagnosed.”

Those afflicted with this disorder have delicate skin that can easily break. Some can’t even bear to wear clothes as the

mildest friction can rip their skin. Severe forms can lead to disfigurement, disability, carcinoma and even death when left untreated.

14-year-old Huy suffers from EB and needs proper wound care daily. He wants “to become a monk and to find a cure for this disease so that other children won’t have to go through this” when asked about his dream.

Huy is only one of many children with EB in southern Vietnam. “We don’t know if there are more because doctors in Vietnam are not yet well-informed to diagnose it. The sad thing is that this is a genetic disorder — meaning if a family has a child with EB, the other children in the family can have this disease as well,” Hillary explains.

HOW is working to provide wound care treatment at an affordable price to children and is seeking partnerships with pharmacies to provide the medicines needed. It costs VND10.5 million to diagnose which type of EB a patient is afflicted with and these tests must be sent to France or Australia as none are available in Vietnam. An additional VND5.25 million

a month is needed for wound treatment.

They are also in the process of setting up support groups among families dealing with EB to help one another.

Seeing it Through In addition to its main goal, the organisation also supports the Educational Center for Disabled Children in District 4, which currently cares for and provides vocational training for 86 disabled children.

They have been providing the basic needs of the centre and are becoming involved in its arts and recreational activities.

However, Hillary is fully aware that the current projects require continuous love, care, guidance and funding before they can become self sustaining. “[Vietnam] feels like home to me, and I find that I am able to somehow get through the muck to find help for the children,” she says. “The projects have gotten to a point where I feel that we need to see things through and not do things halfway.”

To volunteer, donate or learn more about Helping Orphans Worldwide, visit www. helpinghow.com.

May 2012 Word | 39

To mark The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in early June and 60 years of diplomatic relations between the UK and Vietnam, we speak to British Consul General Douglas Barnes about these historic moments. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

A

s Consul-General, what is your exact role in Vietnam? Together with the British Embassy, what do you hope to achieve in the near

future?

The British Embassy and the British Consulate General are tasked with taking forward all Her Majesty’s Government objectives in Vietnam. We have an important responsibility to look after British citizens whom may get into trouble while in Vietnam.

In the short-term I hope to raise the profile of the Consulate General in the city, particularly among the British community, be it those who reside and work here as well as those visiting from the UK. But my medium to long-term objective is to build on the stronger links with Vietnamese stakeholders including government and business. I would like to see the role and purpose of the British Consulate General being recognised across other provinces in the South of Vietnam beyond Ho Chi Minh City.

TALKING SHOP

IN HER MAJESTY’S SERVICE 40 | Word May 2012

What services does the consulate offer to British citizens who find themselves in troubled situations in Vietnam? How do you resolve difficulties with British citizens who are creating problems during their stay in this country?

Our assistance can include issuing emergency travel documents, help to those who have suffered serious sexual or physical assault, are victims of crimes, ill or in hospital, or contacting British nationals within 24 hours of being told of their detention; and help in cases such as child abductions, death of a relative in Vietnam, missing people and kidnapping.

We must respect the Vietnamese systems and legal process just as we expect Vietnamese citizens to respect the UK’s laws and legal processes when in the UK. For those who find themselves in trouble with the local law, we cannot offer legal advice but we are able to provide a list of lawyers without recommending an individual law firm.

What we cannot do is investigate a crime, pay an individual's bills, make arrangements to find work or accommodation, get involved in disputes, release an individual from prison

or prevent the Vietnamese authorities from exercising the law and so interfere in criminal or civil court proceedings.

Many British citizens feel disconnected from the services provided by the consulate and the other British organisations based in Vietnam. How do you think this can be resolved?

I hope most British nationals living in Vietnam feel more connected than you suggest. Nevertheless, I do accept the fact that this issue has been raised, meaning that there must be some concerns among our nationals in Vietnam.

At the same time, it is important for our consular team to have knowledge of all British nationals who are living or working in Vietnam. We are not seeking to check up on them, simply to be aware of their existence here in the event of a ‘crisis’. All the British organisations based in Vietnam work together as ‘one team’ to deliver support to the Vietnamese and British nationals.

Similarly, we work very closely with the British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) in support of British businesses in Vietnam and new businesses that are looking to commence doing business here.

You’re also the director of UK Trade & Investment in Vietnam. What are the main sectors for trade and investment between Vietnam & the UK? What areas are you hoping to promote and what advice would you give for anyone looking to invest here?

In 2010 the UK Vietnam Strategic Partnership Agreement was signed by both our governments. This agreement is particularly significant because it is the first time in the history of bilateral trading between our two countries that our relationship had been endorsed and formalised in such a positive and high profile way.

Millions of Vietnamese are already benefitting from financial services provided

by UK companies such as Prudential, HSBC and Standard Chartered Bank. British energy companies are investing in the oil and gas sector. British retailers are starting

to look at Vietnam, not just as a centre of production, but as an exciting new market in its own right.

The software sector has also seen major developments. Much of the software we use in the NHS and UK education is written in Vietnam. Harvey Nash is currently developing 4G mobile phone software technology in Vietnam. Architectural companies are also outsourcing design to companies employing Vietnam’s young, IT savvy, increasingly English-speaking population.

In healthcare, another area of UK strength, Oxford University is working at the cutting edge of research with the Hospital for Tropical Diseases in Ho Chi Minh on dengue fever, malaria and typhoid.

For prospective UK investors looking at Vietnam, my advice would be that they need to have patience, perseverance and a long-term strategy in place. This is essential because this is not a market where you can achieve short-term gains quickly. But I would also say that a good local partner can be a major benefit in helping UK companies to navigate their way through the processes to establish and expand their business here.

We are here to help UK companies succeed in Vietnam, and would encourage them to get in touch to see what support we can provide.

It often seems that the promotion of British culture in Vietnam is given short thrift. Is this really the case? And how important is it to promote British culture to the world?

The British Council promotes UK arts and creative entrepreneurship worldwide including here in Vietnam. The UK engagement in education and English language are also big business and at times can seem to dwarf the cultural programmes.

However, the UK has a long tradition of innovation in the arts and UK creativity attracts large audiences globally.

Young Vietnamese are very interested in contemporary UK fashion, design and music.

Currently in the city there is the Everything Forever Now sustainable design exhibition showing at the HCMC Exhibition House. In April at both the Hue Festival and the Hanoi Sound Stuff Festival there was an electronic music performance by Tim Exile. Last year the English National Ballet graced both Opera Houses showcasing the UK’s long-standing devotion to ballet but through modern interpretations.

Perhaps the issue is that there is a lack of information within the UK national community in Vietnam about the events and activities that are being done, particularly by the British Council.

The BBGV together with the British Consulate and The British Embassy are organising a huge outdoor event on Jun. 3 to celebrate The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. For more information on the event go to page 11.

May 2012 Word | 41

COVER STORY

Assuming that people have the means to settle where they please (which is certainly not true in all cases), why do human beings choose to live where they live? There are many different reasons — they like the scenery, the rental or purchasing cost is right, it's conveniently located near their job, it’s a mark of status and sometimes because there are people like them and they feel more comfortable. By considering these various factors and many more, people are choosing their neighbours, creating the community in which they live and driving the demands of how a city builds itself.

After a month of research, we’ve discovered that people’s preferences for living space have changed —where once villas and row houses were desirable because tradition dictated big family, now young urban professionals are opting for the status and refinery that comes with living in a high rise.

We delve into this transformation, looking at housing trends and the sustainability and makeover of the city’s architecture. We also take an exclusive glimpse behind the doors of some of our neighbours’ abodes.

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May 2012 Word | 43

WHERE YOU LIVE MATTERS

The place where you call home can affect the image of the community and how a city builds itself. John Thornton delves into this city’s increasingly fluid real estate market

H

o Chi Minh City is the most densely populated area in Vietnam. According to a 2009 census, between eight and nine million people are reported to populate its metropolitan area, accounting for 8.4 percent of the country’s total population.

This may be an unsurprising statistic, though when one considers that Ho Chi Minh City boasts one of the highest urbanisation rates in South-East Asia, and that the number of this city’s inhabitants is on a par with Johannesburg, San Francisco, Washington, and the Greater London area, it leads to some interesting questions.

In particular, as the city grows, how is the residential market affected?

According to Troy Griffiths, national director of research and valuation at commercial real estate services firm Savills, demand across the residential market has slowed due to a combination of post-global-financial-crisis economic factors, such as increased interest rates, lowered foreign direct investment (FDI) and tightened monetary policy.

Christopher Brown, general manager of the Ho Chi Minh City branch of fellow commercial real estate services firm Cushman & Wakefield echoes this sentiment: “In the last 12 months we’ve seen a downturn in sales activity across

44 | Word May 2012

almost all housing segments and grades.

This isn’t to say demand has disappeared, but the conditions for prospective buyers have become far less favourable.”

MORE FOR MORE As a response to the recent economic woes, one trend that has emerged is a shift towards developers providing more affordable housing for the broader population, especially condominiums.

Recent data provided by CB Richard Ellis Vietnam suggests that from a total of 1,313 condominium units newly completed in the first quarter of 2012, 862 fall into the affordable segment (with an average asking price of VND13.88 million per square metre), with 364 units in the mid-end (VND19.27 million psm) and only 87 in the luxury segment (VND85.9 million psm).

As a result, the nature of demand has changed, with speculative investors — those interested in purchasing a units only to sell them on for a profit — replaced by those that either buy-to-let or purchase a unit to live in it themselves.

“Over the last five years upwards of 85 percent of buyers were made up of speculative investors, especially in the mid-to-high-end segments,” says Brown.

“Now they’ve disappeared and there’s more emphasis on building products to serve the need of end-users.”

“This is one reason why mixed-use

developments that combine residential and retail components such as The Manor and Saigon Pearl are proving increasingly popular,” says Savills’ residential leasing manager, Montgomery Truong. “Since there are more comparable developments in the market, purchasers are becoming savvier. They’re asking more questions and expect a certain standard of quality.

Developers have had to respond to this.”

THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE And yet, while all signs point towards better affordability, some developers are actively going against the grain.

Take the soon-to-be-delivered City Garden residential development in Binh Thanh, for example. With 927 high-end apartments, it includes a children’s playground, barbeque garden, swimming pools, a health club, a kindergarten and a jogging path with a major emphasis on green space. However, the addition of one-bedroom apartments could be considered City Garden’s most unique feature, and a sign that the developer is responding to the demands of an increasingly independent society with a taste for the finer life.

W. Towne Baker, general director of City Garden, explains how the development meets the requirements of the end-user and why they’ve forsaken affordability in favour of the high-end segment.

“During the feasibility work-up we drew from what was presently in the market, feedback from buyers who had purchased in other developments at that time, and extrapolated from trends in surrounding markets,” he says. “[We] distilled this information and synthesizing it alongside what we felt was missing in the market and what the future generation of buyers will want.”

He adds: “One of the core principals of City Garden is in taking the residential experience to the next level where all aspects of daily life are considered.

Undoubtedly, statistics show that affordable and mid-end developments permeate the current market, but there will always be a demand for thoughtfully considered, well-planned, international standards in construction and delivery of a high-end product.”

CONTROLLED LIVING A challenging economy isn’t the only factor altering the dynamics of the housing market. From a resident’s perspective, the desire to live in District 1, with all its restaurants, bars, shops and general convenience has decreased. With

developed infrastructure, better linkages to the city centre and comparatively cheaper rents, areas such as Binh Thanh, District 2 and Phu My Hung have emerged as genuinely attractive alternatives.

And within these individual areas, certain micro-trends are forming. In Phu My Hung, for example, an increasing number of Japanese and Korean residents are setting up shop. Monty explains that, in this instance, cultural factors come into play.

“The Japanese and Koreans are used to living in a 70-sqm apartment; they don’t desire villas or townhouses because they’re generally too big for them. It’s more natural for them to go to an area such as District 7, which offers a lot more high-rise condominiums.”

He continues. “District 7 is also a very controlled area, which Asian expats find appealing. And because of this more Japanese and Korean retailers are opening up there, which in turn entices more Japanese and Koreans to live there. It’s become cyclical.”

Meanwhile, Dan Salter of Snap Property, which specialises in providing houses, villas and apartments for rent in District 2, has noticed an increase in

condominium uptake over the historically preferred villa.

“People are realising that a villa demands a lot more independent upkeep and maintenance than an apartment, where problems are taken care of by the building’s own maintenance team,” says Dan. “There are also more security issues with a villa, especially in District 2, where burglaries are unfortunately a common occurrence. So, we’re seeing more people opt for these closed-gate condominium compound types such as River Garden.”

With condominium rental seemingly the preferred choice for the majority of Ho Chi Minh City’s inhabitants, will we ever see a swing towards full property purchases? Well, since Vietnamese law dictates that a non-Vietnamese can only buy a property here with a leasehold of 50 years, and with interest rates so high and bank loans hard to acquire, Troy thinks not, but at no great loss, either.

Adding, “I can’t afford to buy the house I live in, but I can afford to rent it and thus still access the same lifestyle.

So even though your rent money goes down the drain it’s still a good value proposition.”

May 2012 Word | 45

THE ROW HOUSE

THROUGH THE KEYHOLE

THE SEARCH

We all know what our own homes are like, but what about everyone else out there? The residents of six properties let us take a peek behind the scenes. Words by Stephanie Cantrell

“We used to live on Co Bac in District 1,” says Minh. “Two of our sons met a volunteer at a shelter who offered to help us with our rent so we could afford to live here. We looked around for a cheap place and eventually a friend introduced us to this house, which was the cheapest option for us.”

THE SPACE

THE ROOM

THE SPACE

“I looked around a lot before I found my place,” explains An. “I work in District 1 but housing is expensive and hard to find in my price range, so my friends showed me lots of places in District 4, which is close to my school and cheaper. Most of the places I looked at involved sharing with lots of people, which I didn’t want. Finally I found the place I’m living in now.”

“It’s very small and simple,” says An. “The last owner stuck cuttings from magazines all over the wall, which gives it an interesting look. I like it here because the owner is like family to me, which makes for a nice living environment. I also work very late hours as a waiter and lots of landlords insist that you come home early.

Here, I can come home anytime I want —

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ABOUT THE HOUSE The house is small with two rooms and a shower. The second floor is accessed via a steep staircase. The house is located within a maze of alleys in the heart of the district. The alley itself is quiet and not crowded, but the surrounding streets Resident: Phan Thi Phuong bustle with market stalls selling rice, meat, (vegetable stall owner) and Le Kim vegetables and household goods.

Minh (government office worker) Location: Two-room house in District 4 Rent: VND2.5 million a month Moved in: 2010

Resident: An Tran Trong (waiter and student) Location: A room in a house in District 4 Rent: VND800,000 a month Moved in: January 2012

THE SEARCH

“It’s very small, but it’s good to have our own place,” he adds. “We have eight children so it’s crowded, but we like the area — it’s quiet and there’s no crime. The location is what we like most about the house. We could move somewhere cheaper if we were willing to live further out of the city, but our children need to be close to school. We might have to move soon though because the owner wants to sell the house and we can’t afford to buy it.”

three in the morning, four in the morning —and no one minds. The location is ideal for me as well because lots of my friends live in District 4.”

THE BUILDING The building is a private house located down an alley in District 4. The owner and son live in the house and there are two rooms available for rent.

May 2012 Word | 47

JUST OFF THE CENTRE

HEADING SOUTH THE SEARCH Resident: Michael Hardy (owner of Em Oi shop) and Loan Hardy (senior consultant in commercial leasing) Location: Three-bedroom apartment, Hoang Thap Apartments, District 8 Rent: VND9,450,000 a month Real Estate Agent: Savills Moved in: 2010

“My wife and I used to live in District 4 and were completely spoiled by the central location, so when we started our search for a new place, I was stuck on staying in District 4,” says Michael. “One day we decided to go for a drive, after months of looking in District 4 with no luck, to check out the new bridge and road heading into District 8. Once we saw Hoang Thap, we immediately called a real estate agent and got her to show us the different floor plans. We knew right away that it was the place for us. Even though it seems pretty far out of the city for some, it has great roads leading to and from town and it's far enough away to be pretty quiet."

THE SPACE “We have a three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment that's almost 100sqm,” says Michael. “My favourite things in the house are kind of corny. I have a vase from Mexico that I bought when I was 17 that I love way too much and I have a swinging sticks kinetic sculpture that I saw in the Iron Man movie and had to have. The biggest drawback is not having a proper balcony. I have found myself leaning out the windows at times just to get that balcony feeling! We have a view of Nha Be area with RMIT fields to the left and the red bridge on Nguyen Van Linh. Overall, it's great.”

Resident: Michael Halloran, Bryna Greenlaw (both English teachers) Location: Two-bedroom apartment in Binh Thanh Rent: VND14.7 million a month Real Estate Agent: The Nest Moved in: March 2012

ABOUT HOANG THAP APARTMENTS Less than five minutes from Phu My Hung, and 15 minutes from District 1, Hoang Thap is a 14-storey building located on a 3,000sqm campus. Services include high speed Internet and facilities include a garden, a water clock and ample parking.

THE SEARCH “Bryna and I were working in Korea when we decided to come to Vietnam to do a CELTA course at ILA,” explains Michael. “The school forwarded us some information about living in Vietnam, including a list of estate agents’ websites.

We have a dog, so it was important for us to find a place with enough room for her.

We decided to go with The Nest as the properties on their website were within our price range and seemed to come as close to our ideal as possible. We checked out several properties in District 5 and Binh Thanh. After looking at a range of options, we were happy to meet our agent again at one of the properties we liked in

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Binh Thanh. After ten minutes in it, we decided we didn’t need to review the other apartment and placed an offer. That was just over a month ago, and we’re quite happy here.”

THE SPACE “Coming from the box-room world of Korea, our new apartment seems like a palace, with two en suite bedrooms, a large living and dining room and a small kitchen,” gushes Michael. “We really like the living room space. There’s a large bookshelf, a couch, coffee table, two comfy chairs and a dining table as well as a flat screen TV, all of which came with the property. We have WiFi and it’s usually

a decent speed. Also, a maid cleans the apartment six days a week and that’s included in the rent. The only downside is that there have been maybe four power outages since we got here. But we have board games and candles, so we’re set up for such disruptions now.”

ABOUT THE BUILDING The apartment is located on the fifth floor of a six-floor house, close to Saigon Pearl and The Manor where they can access the facilities available there for a membership fee. The street itself is quiet and ends with a cul-de-sac. The landlord lives in the building and both his adult children speak good English.

May 2012 Word | 49

THE PENTHOUSE

CLOSE TO THE AIRPORT

Resident: Chinnawat Teeraphatpornchai, Operation Program Manager Location: Two-bedroom apartment on Phan Dinh Giot, Tan Binh Rent: VND16.8 million a month Real Estate Agent: None, recommended through a work colleague Moved in: 2007

THE SEARCH Before moving to his current apartment, Chinnawat stayed in another apartment in Phu Nhuan. He was looking for a new place in Phu Nhuan and District 3 because it’s halfway between his office and the city centre. Luckily, he found this apartment in a couple of weeks. The beauty of this one is the location — just a five-minute walk to Chinnawat’s office. For him, it’s very convenient because he doesn’t want to

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spend a lot of time travelling between work and home.

THE SPACE “It’s a good sized apartment with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a living room, kitchen and dining area,” says Chinnawat.

“Generally I’m quite happy here. There’s a 24-hour security guard, cleaning and laundry and the rent has remained stable since I moved in. There’s also a beautiful

Residents: Tom Borthwick (geophysicist) and Sheila Borthwick (school teacher back in Canada) Location: Four-bedroom Penthouse in Riverside Apartments, An Phu Rent: >VND100 million a month Real Estate Agent: None Moved in: 2010

view of the sunset behind the airport. One bad thing is the restaurant opposite, which can be a little noisy at night.”

THE BUILDING The seven-storey building has offices for rent on the first three floors and six apartments on the other floors. The landlord also stays in the building. There is car and motorbike parking and a service elevator.

THE SEARCH

THE SPACE

“We lived in Villa Riviera before here,” Tom explains. “We found it to be a little too isolated. Sheila and I don’t ride bikes so we had to get our driver to take us on the smallest trips, like to the shops or supermarket. Riverside is a much more convenient location. It’s within walking distance of shops and cafes, and our son can walk to school. So when a place became available we moved in.”

“We feel very fortunate with the amount of living space we have here,” says Sheila, of the 350sqm penthouse. “It’s easy to entertain and all our friends who’ve visited have loved it. The high ceilings create a more open atmosphere and I love the big patio. The view’s great.”

“We also love the service here at Riverside,” adds Tom. “It’s completely stress free. Whether it’s a problem with the Internet

or a light bulb fixture, someone will come right over to fix it.”

ABOUT RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS Set in a quiet riverside complex in An Phu, it offers a range of units with varying bedroom numbers and types of living space. Residents can also take advantage of the on-site gym, pool, tennis courts, restaurant, shop and café.

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BUILDING FOR THE FUTURE

Ho Chi Minh City is expanding at an exponential rate. But with all these new developments sprouting up, how much are the future and the specific circumstances of this city being taken into account? Words by Nick Ross.

Photos by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

A State of Oneness

It’s a Wednesday morning and after a false start we take a trip up to the top of Saigon One. Set above the tunnel at number one Ham Nghi, and giving company to its iconic neighbour, The Bitexco Financial Tower, this building looks likely to become yet another

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landmark in this changing city.

From the helipad on top we find ourselves drinking in the sweeping views of the expanding metropolis below. A bar is due up here when the building is completed in October, but it’s only when we descend to the 29th floor that the true significance of this foreign constructed, locally invested building becomes clear.

“Both the offices and residential apartments are built away from direct sunlight,” says An Ngo, MC & C’s project manager as he points to the north-south facing dimensions of the building. “This will save on air-conditioning costs as inside it won’t be so hot.” He then explains more about the glass that will be used on the outside of the building — it will have a special lamination that absorbs solar radiation. Once again this will reduce energy usage. It’s just one of the many sustainable design features built into this project.

That such factors have value in the new crop of buildings sprouting up in this city says much for the transformation of the thought processes going into architecture and design. But it’s far from being a new concept.

Look at Centrepoint on Nguyen Van Troi, Saigon’s benchmark building when it came to taking into account ‘green’ architecture. The two Hong Kong Land properties in Hanoi — 63 Ly Thai To and Central Building — have also been maintained with such awareness.

Many more are following this model. As Cosimo Jencks from the Hong Kong-based firm explains, “Our existing buildings are constantly upgraded and each year there is an investment programme which enhances the sustainability of the buildings. To date we have changed lighting, water usage and

made electrical energy saving improvements and in the future new windows will be used to reduce the energy impact and improve the noise levels…”

The difference is that this awareness level is now far more widespread. In the past there was an almost universal ‘build it and they will come’ type of attitude. Combined with real estate speculation, costs versus short-term profit was the key element in construction — the long-term consequences were largely ignored. Most importantly, little thought was given to the people who would actually occupy these buildings.

“Engineers often design to the minimum standards, not necessarily the appropriate standards, because its not ‘visible’ value for the owner,” explains Melissa Merryweather of Green Consult-Asia. “The whole point of building buildings is that people occupy them, so the lack of emphasis on the occupants tends to backfire later. Its always the banal things — the amount of storage space, the number of WCs, the ability to ventilate smells out, whether the lifts are reliable — that make the difference between indifferent and good quality.”

The classic case occurred a few years ago when an official building was inaugurated in District 8, only for the occupiers to move in and discover there were no toilets. Quite rightly the press had a field day.

Melissa adds: “Good design doesn’t have to be expensive. And the aspects that have tended to be incorporated in Singapore — good ventilation and daylight, a little terrace — these can be cheap to implement if they’re thought about right at the beginning.”

This year a number of new buildings in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City will

IN ITS FINAL STAGES. SAIGON ONE WILL BE COMPLETED IN OCTOBER 2012

S

ustainability. It's one of those concept-laden words that seems to go hand-inparcel with NGO speak, in the process making the uninitiated head for the trees.

But in the present building frenzy that is gathering pace in this city, it’s a concept that takes on extra resonance. For sustainability is about achieving and maintaining a satisfactory lifestyle today while maintaining resources for future generations.

And here is the issue — the future. There is a tendency in this metropolis to only focus on the present, to go in search of short-term profit at the expense of longer term stability.

In the process, long-term consequences get ignored.

So, with the rebuilding and expansion of this city, what legacy will be left behind for the sons, daughters and grandchildren of the present younger generation of Saigonese? And how well will this city deal with the myriad of issues — physical, social, environmental and economic — that will determine its ability to stand the test of time?

For one thing is clear. While zoning, infrastructure and areas set aside for development are all in place, there remains a gold rush atmosphere to Ho Chi Minh City, all fueled by that overpowering mentality, cash in while you can.

May 2012 Word | 53

A view from up high. the vista from the top of saigon one

be given LOTUS or the American LEED certification — Melissa alone is working on a total of 15 such projects in Vietnam.

Developed by the Vietnam Green Building Council (www. vgbc.org.vn), the LOTUS accreditation is based on existing ratings systems in the US, Australia and the UK, and requires buildings to take into account a number of factors: energy efficiency, water usage and supply, construction materials, the local ecology, waste and pollution, health and comfort, adaptation to change, community, management and innovation.

The Wider Perspective

While this desire to achieve such accreditation is a good omen — it marks the start of a psychological sea change in the perception of how this country should be built — it is also part of a wider recognition that for Vietnam to overcome its unique set of environmental issues, then action must be taken now. Noone wants the flooding experienced last year in Bangkok to occur in Ho Chi Minh City.

Atlas Industries architect and consultant Matt Parkes believes that the unique circumstances of this country mean that “Vietnam has the potential to become the world leader in sustainable development.”

“If you bear in mind the uniqueness of [Vietnam’s] geology, geography, low lying land and the fact that it's a growing economy,” he explains, “if [this country]

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learns the lessons and mistakes from other countries around the world, if it picks and combines the international ingredient with the local ingredients it has and brings them together, it could come up with a very unique solution and set an example to other developing countries.”

Focusing on energy efficiency, Matt is clear on one key aspect when it comes to sustainability — there is a genuine financial benefit to constructing ‘green’ buildings.

“It's not just about building green buildings for the sake of being a tree hugger,” he says.

“It's about an economic necessity… Energy efficient buildings are a cost benefit to the country in terms of using its resources. It's also a cost benefit to the user.”

He adds: “An energy-efficient building is by its very nature more in harmony with its local surroundings and its environment.

Therefore it will be a pleasant building to live in. It will be more sought after and it will have a higher value.”

This is where perspective and changing it comes into play. For, beyond basic design, airflow and balconies, certain design features that need to be incorporated in such buildings cost money. At least they do in the short term.

Long-term it pays off.

While not directly related to energy efficiency, Melissa takes the example of factories that have struggled to maintain staff in the highly volatile labour market

that presently exists in this city. By having bad ventilation — a typical feature of many buildings locally — there is a build up of carbon dioxide in the air, leading to lethargy among the workers and an inability to concentrate. But by investing in improving ventilation and daylighting, many factories have seen a reduction in ‘churn’ or staff turnover, independent of any raise in income.

“This isn’t so strange,” she says. “The difference between toiling all day in a dingy, hot and noisy factory versus a cool and quiet one could mean the difference between going home exhausted or having enough energy left at the end of the day to spend quality time with family. The ‘churn’ rate is extremely expensive for all of industry here, whereas improvements to ventilation and daylight can be quite inexpensive.”

If you look at the likes of Unilever’s office in Phu My Hung and then the head offices of Google and Apple, and see how much time and money has been spent on designing a good, creative, pleasant working environment, you’ll understand why. The same goes for residential properties. Build in a range of features that aids and improves the lifestyle of the residents, and it has a substantial effect on wellbeing.

The New City?

That Phu My Hung has been such a successful project is a mark of its

incorporation of sustainability right at the design stage. Not everyone is a fan of this suburb-cum-city — ultimately its design and layout marks a substantial departure from typical urban life in Vietnam. But, it has certainly done many things well.

Take for example the greenery. 40.89 percent of the land is green space and parks.

Not only does this have an aesthetic appeal but it avoids the issue of getting trapped air thermals in and thus raising the air temperature. Then there is the construction of the East-West Highway with the future in mind — the central reservation has been left free for the future metro line that will run through the area. Other aspects such as keeping the existing rivers as natural boundaries, reclaiming water for landscaping purposes, and using softscape and permeable pavement to allow rainwater to recharge groundwater supplies also help. As does the deliberate spacing of the apartment buildings to allow for airflow — many residents don’t need to use air-conditioning at night.

It’s not all roses and smiles, though — as the corporation behind the development is quick to admit, they have problems with the sidewalks and roads. Moving sediment and land in the swamps below the construction means that until the ground below becomes settled, they have to constantly be resurfaced.

But like the future development set to take place in District 2’s Thu Thiem, the future and

the local environment have always been kept in mind.

For Matthew Duckworth, associate director and commercial agency manager of Knight Frank, while the sustainability factor of Phu My Hung is an example of the kind of models that need to be followed elsewhere, for him the key factor that makes this development stand out is lifestyle.

“Phu My Hung is very much catered towards a safe living environment,” he explains. “It’s nowhere near the density you would get in District 1. And you get an international range of people living there.

We see it as a safe place, a place to bring up families. People joke about it and say it’s a place to get married. But people who live there want to be able to walk, to not have the threat of being run over. It’s reflective of a development you would see in the UK or Hong Kong.”

He adds: “It’s about living space and breathing space. A lot of people don’t like the intensity of District 1. They prefer to have the work life balance where they can go to the gym, have low stress, go to a restaurant, have a drink and have peace and quiet as well.”

With other such areas already completed — take Saigon Pearl — and projects already underway such as Celadon City in Tan Phu, there is a sense that in the near future Phu My Hung will no longer stand alone in terms of what it’s achieved. And yet, Matthew

is cautious. While such well thought-out developments are great for the city, they tend to be focused towards the top-end. The majority of Vietnamese quite simply cannot afford to live in such places.

“There has to be affordable housing,” says Matthew. “But it needs to be done in a way so that you have green areas and nice housing and so that it’s nice for families to live in. You also need to take into account the growing number of smaller families, the people who are looking for one and two-bedroom places who don’t have multiple generations living under one roof. We need to cater for that kind of market.”

This gap in the availability of affordable housing and in the different types of housing available is now wellacknowledged in Vietnam. And as unit after unit of ‘luxury’ living space remains empty, oversupply and a lack of demand means developers are starting to turn towards filling this hole.

Melissa, though, believes there is another type of housing desire that could be tapped into, “owners who connect with people’s desire for healthy places to live”. “[In Vietnam] people think a lot about health and they want it for themselves and for their families,” she explains. “Healthy people are happier. This is always good for society. And increasingly healthy buildings will be associated with quality.”

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EXTENDED FEATURE

A Space Odyssey Every city needs public space. But in Ho Chi Minh City, the tendency is to bemoan the lack of them. Is it really all that bad? Words by Nick Ross

THE CRESCENT AT SUNSET / PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

THE CRESCENT AT SUNSET / PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

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Putting People in Their Places The mention of Phu My Hung arouses a myriad of emotions. Some love this development, this city built on a mangrove swamp. The more nostalgic see it as an end to the Saigon of old. Regardless of your

persuasion, the inauguration of the privately created public space in The Crescent in District 7 has largely been a success.

Constructed to help transform this District 7 suburb into a city, says Phu My Hung Corporation president Gary Tseng, “If a city centre is only residential, it’s not a city centre… You must have a commercial hub. It means that outside people can also come to this area.”

At the weekends The Crescent Mall alone can bring in over 30,000 people. Wining and dining is also a big affair out here, as is the pedestrianised walkway and road that offer a place to stretch legs and take in the evening breezes. Then there is the abundance of greenery, the neon light-lit footbridge and the overall sense of community.

Yet, a trip down here on a Sunday evening exposes both the positive and the negative.

With a couple of exceptions, the restaurants,

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WHO NEEDS BENCHES ANYWAY? / PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

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With this in mind, we decided to do a little experiment.

In the 1980s the journalist and urbanist William H. Whyte put together the documentary The Social Life of Small Urban Places. Looking at the public spaces of New York and further afield, he observed people's behaviour and the design of these spaces to see what worked and what didn’t.

Through this he came up with a number of recommendations that were subsequently followed by the city of the New York. We decided to take his observations and apply them to Ho Chi Minh City.

TURTLE LAKE CIRCLE / PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

here is a distinct lack of greenery in this city and except on holidays or when there are outdoor exhibitions in the park areas, there are few places where the general public can mingle with impunity.

Or at least, that is what it may seem. If you include sidewalks and indeed any social space that people can meet, exercise, play, relax or find solitude, Saigon has far more public space than we may at first assume.

That public spaces are important is often overlooked. Humans are intrinsically social animals, and while our homes can be our castles, outside the environs of our private space we need places where we can interact with others. It’s something psychological, something that is a feature of human development over the last 10,000 years. To see humans as atoms confined to their homes is to miss out on a prime characteristic of humanity.

THE FPPTBRIDGE ACROSS THE CRESCENT LAKE / PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

THE PRINCIPLES OF WILLIAM H. WHYTE In his documentary The Social Life of Small Urban Places and later in his book, City: Rediscovering the Centre, Whyte outlined a number of principles for designing a successful public space.

SUITABLE SPACE The size needs to be in proportion to the amount of people who will use the space — not too large or too small. It mustn’t be enclosed and there must be ample seating — mainly ledges and steps — where people can sit in a variety of positions. The seating must also take account of the natural size and height of the human being STREET The space should be at street level or close to street level. It should have easy access to and from the street and should not be fenced off

FOOD Food and drink should be available at a public space. It gives additional reasons to use the space

TREES Trees and other sorts of greenery not only provide shade, they provide shelter.

People like to sit under trees or in places with ample shelter TRIANGULATION Make sure the spaces have something for people to look at — monuments, sites, street activities, music. Anything to keep people in that space

cafes and bars are full. The fountain area with public seating at the front of the Crescent Mall, with its two coffee shops, also draws quite a crowd. The steps, ledges and fountains leading up to the second level close to Boomarang, heaves, too. And yet, observe the waterfront walkway area and you see a problem.

To keep people in a public space you need places to sit so they are not forced to wander through and then leave. As Whyte observed, people like ledges and steps to sit on.

Conversely, public benches placed far apart tend to be isolating — strangers rarely tend

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Difficult access makes it hard for central reservations in roundabouts to become good public spaces. And yet around the world some such areas have been a success. So we looked at three circles in Ho Chi Minh City to see what had been done with them.

The first was in the middle of Quach Thi Trang, the roundabout opposite Ben Thanh Market. For ornamentation, this reservation has been well-designed — there are bushes, flowers, shallow steps and a statue in the middle of war general Tran Nguyen Han. But beyond that it doesn’t quite work. There are no traffic lights, no walkways that allow you to cross the busy road to the roundabout.

And when and if you get there, there is little shade and except under the shadow of the statue, nowhere to sit. A big thumbs down.

Fortunately the central space in the middle of the junction of Nguyen Hue and Le Loi offers easier access. The road isn’t so wide and there is usually less traffic. But occupied by a water feature surrounded by a fence, on getting here there is shade, but once again nowhere to sit. All meaning that the only time this space is used is during the flower market around Tet when the road becomes pedestrianized. Sitting here, though, certainly doesn’t do wonders to the backside.

SUN / LIGHT Spaces need to be well-lit. In New York, the sun is not an issue. In Ho Chi Minh City it is. So transferring this to Saigon, a good public space needs ample shade and ample places to escape the sun

WATER People like water features and being close to water, particularly water they can touch and feel

A TALE OF THREE ROUNDABOUTS

to sit on the same bench as another stranger.

On ledges, though, the whole world seems to come together.

And yet, the key seating location, the waterfront, the spot where people would most likely want to sit, seems to have been given short thrift. This is the place to really catch the view. But with small park benches 30 metres apart, people coming to the riverfront have a place to walk but nowhere to sit. The restaurants and cafes opposite can help to solve this problem, but most of them are simply too expensive for the non-middleclass. All begging the question, is the lack of seating an oversight, or is The Crescent only supposed to be for those who can afford it?

According to Gary Tseng, the lack of seating along the walkway was deliberate, but not for the purpose of exclusion.

“When we designed [the riverfront], we made it so it wasn’t easy to sit down,” he explains. “The problem is that the people coming here leave loads of garbage everywhere and pollute the environment…

Just look at the grass area in front of Grand View… It is a place for people to walk, to exercise. If everyone can do like that, we can appreciate that. But if you just lie around the space or young couples do things in public that are perhaps not

suitable, then it’s a problem.”

Adds Cheryl Li, the director of The Crescent project: “Many people who don’t live here come here for enjoyment. But they don’t respect the environment. They just come here and pollute it. So, our residents complain to us that we must take some major action to prevent this happening.”

Fines and Crimes Vu Thi Hong Hanh, a lecturer in Planning and Urban Design at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Architecture, agrees that there is a huge issue with misuse.

“A lot of people park their motorbikes in public spaces,” she explains, “But they're not places to park. Then there are those who use parks as a place to sleep. They are not places to sleep. There are also a lot of signs around — don’t step on the grass, don’t urinate here — but people just ignore them. It’s the result of improper management and also the behaviour of the users.”

She also bemoans the lack of accessibility.

Take Tao Dan Park on Truong Dinh. A metal bar was erected there to prevent bicycles or motorbikes entering the park area, but in the process the park has been made inaccessible to wheelchair users. Then there

is the linear park being constructed next to the canal on the East-West Highway. “With six or seven lanes of highway to cross, how will people get there to use it?”

She adds: “Most of the public spaces in the old city centre were planned during the French colonial period. We inherited them and modified them to fit our use. The modification doesn’t always fit. But if you provide proper design, then people will use it properly. It becomes a circle.”

A few years ago I was waiting for my family outside the Le Duan entrance of Diamond Plaza when I made the ultimate mistake. I sat down on a ledge surrounding a flowerbed. A security guard immediately marched over and moved me on.

At the time I was shocked. It seemed counter-intuitive. Surely such a place as the Diamond Plaza would want people sitting outside — the impression of being busy would help draw other people into the building. And surely this area on the street was a public space. But having experienced the same scenario a couple of times since, it's quite clear the reason for this is a concern about people's behaviour.

It's a double-edged sword. On one front there seems to be a lack of planning behind spaces in the city centre. Take the Opera

House and the greenery next door once occupied by Q Bar. With a bit of thought there could some great development behind these two spaces. Take down the fence and open the greenery up to the street. Add in some trees, a couple of umbrellas, some shade and some well thought-out seating. With it bring a quality coffee stand or two and maybe a stand selling takeaway food. And suddenly you would have a great little space in the centre of the city.

The worry is, as Phu My Hung has experienced, that with it would come the ‘undesirables’, the people who would drop litter where they sit, the people who would lie on the grass, and those who would spread out their picnics in an ungainly fashion on the lawn. The not-so-welcome elements of crime would also appear — District 1 already has a big issue with bag snatching and this may exacerbate it.

Essentially, a large minority would ruin the space for the majority.

The problem here is an issue of awareness. At present Vietnam lacks a widespread understanding of the importance of public spaces and how they should be used. Until this is resolved, then anything created by the authorities

Turtle Lake Circle, however, fulfills most of Whyte’s requirements. Built in 1965 once again access is not simple, but with a lower density level of traffic, crossing to the central public space is not dangerous.

Filled with an extensive, accessible water feature, ledges to sit and easy access to the water, there is also ample shade and the monument itself provides something to look at. Street vendors make this place a stop on their travels and not surprisingly, it is always busy. This is a well thought out public space, possibly one of the best in town, and demonstrates that despite problems of access, with a bit of thought you can successfully create a place for the people.

or the private developer will be abused.

And then, as Hanh points out, rules and regulations need to be enforced.

So, as a first step, maybe it's time to follow the draconian example of Bangkok.

It started a decade ago with fines for spitting in public. This was quickly extended to banning litter, a policy that has gone even as far as fining people for leaving cigarette butts on the street. The method is not ideal. But it keeps the city clean. And like the zero tolerance policy of wearing motorbike helmets that was ushered in at the end of 2007, it may be the only way forward.

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PHOTO BY FERNANDO MADARIAGA / ICEX PHOTO BY FÉLIX LORRIO / ICEX

PHOTO BY FÉLIX LORRIO / ICEX

DESTINATION

OFF THE BEAT

MADRID Like many big cities, Madrid reveals her secrets slowly and with some effort as Madrid-based travel writer Will Peach finds out.

Photos provided by Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) 60 | Word May 2012

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ravelling to a place with the sole intention of treading an “unbeaten path” is a never a great idea. But when that place is a bustling European capital, how can anyone expect to find somewhere fresh from the footfalls of those who’ve gone before?

It’s a good question. Expectations on finding any sort of path, unbeaten or not, is something I’ve not only learned to let go of in lieu of wandering Madrid’s city streets, but also life in general. Sure it’s a bleak outlook, but for other visitors trying to keep sane in the Spanish capital, acting accordingly might be the best way forward.

And expectations or not, finding the beating pulse of this city remains very much the crux of this offbeat guide. So with that at the forefront should I give in to temptation

and begin my futile quest for the unbeaten path in Madrid’s many raucous bars? Or, better still, hope that it naturally unfurls after a stroll around the green fields of Buen Retiro Park?

Whichever way you look at it, it’s probably

HOW TO GET THERE Indirect return with Qatar Air, Air France, Emirates Airlines or Vietnam Airlines. Prices range from VND12 million to VND19 million before tax.

about time to make a start. So, let’s do what any other rational person would do. Let’s put it all off to go shopping instead.

Looking Up Skyward Anyone familiar with Madrid and its maze of backstreets will probably scoff at starting out an expedition like this with an amble down Gran Via, one of the city’s liveliest and best-known shopping districts. But the truth is very few people look past the hotels, movie theatres and boutique stores that populate it.

So with shopping a simple ruse fashioned to check out the area, take a walk down Gran Via along the Calle de Alcala and let it prove to you my first point about finding any sense of the “unbeaten” here in Madrid. That is, in order to find a city that few others see, you only really need look up.

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PHOTO BY FÉLIX LORRIO / ICEX

"Outdoors is where you’re likely to find the special parts of Madrid. And despite being overshadowed by national rival Barcelona when it comes to monuments of magnitude, this city stills packs a decent punch" And what better place to look then skyward? Home to some of the city’s most stunning and iconic buildings, most visitors to Madrid don’t even bother to concern themselves with early 20th century monoliths like the Edificio Metropolis and the Edificio Grassy that loom above.

But with art-deco bastions like The Capitol on Plaza del Callao, Gran Via is an ideal place to start marveling at the forgotten architectural splendor of Madrid. Continue walking down to the final part, the Plaza de España, and you’ll also find my favourite viewing spot in a city made more famous by indoor worlds (those of taverns and tapas bars) rather than those that live outside.

Outdoor Pleasures

PH P PHOT PHOTO H O BY B FERNANDO FERNAND FER NAN O MA NAND M MADARI MADARIAGA DAR DARIAGA DARI R AGA / IC IICEX EX X

Outdoors is where you’re likely to find the special parts of Madrid. And despite being overshadowed by national rival Barcelona when it comes to monuments of magnitude, this city stills packs a decent punch. Continue to head down Gran Via (with a stop off in gargantuan book store Casa del Libro at Gran Vía, 29) along the Calle de Princessa and up to the base of the Arco de la Victoria and you'll see further examples.

Built in 1956 as a tribute to Franco’s Nationalist army who rose to victory during the Spanish civil war, the 39m-high Arco (arch) serves as a reminder of a fraught past that many of Spain’s modern day visitors

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don’t know a shred about. Also referred to by a large number of Madrid’s three-million strong population by a different name completely (to avoid association with the dictator himself), don’t be surprised if you have difficulty finding this one either.

But where the Arco might not be the kind of blink-and-you-miss-it spot you expect to find off of a city’s beaten track, Madrid’s Museo al Aire Libre (Open Air Museum) is a dead cert for any such list.

Situated beside Calle Serrano, beneath a busy flyover (you’ll have to walk a short while down Calle de Jose Abscal to find it), here you’ll find 17 sculptures, each made at the hands of a different Spanish artist.

The setting enables you to get up close and personal with these cold bronze and steel figures — you’ll soon realise that this is about as public as ‘real art’ gets here at Museo al Aire Libre.

Other Hidden Gems If it’s art and culture you crave more of then Madrid has plenty of other little-known gems hidden away in other city pockets, too. One of those options, the Museo Sorolla, the former mansion home of Valencian artist Joaquin Sorolla, offers a far more intimate look into the life of a Madrid-based artisan than that which you might see at the world famous Prado or Reina Sofia.

Tread a little further, too, around the corner

from the Museo Sorolla and you’ll find two other areas of the city largely ignored by the tourist crowds.

Close to Goya metro station, the district of Salamanca is home to one of the city’s most thriving local spots in the Mercado de la Paz, an upscale market full of Spanish hams, cheeses, fresh produce and seafood. Walking around its circle of stores and eyeing its many cafes, it’s a smart move to head and check out Santa (Calle de Serrano, 56), one of Madrid’s best-loved chocolate shops, that sits in the heart of the neighbourhood.

Away from Salamanca, one of Madrid’s other lesser-known treasures is the Malasaña district. Similar to that of New York’s East Village or London’s Camden Town, this neighbourhood boasts laid-back bars like La Paca (Calle de Valverde, 36) and Lolina (Calle del Espíritu Santo, 9), a host of secondhand vintage clothes stores, quirky galleries and booming nightclubs to party in away from those of the centre that will burn your wallet to a cinder.

Cover Your Tracks Yet how can any true Madrid-based adventure end without mention of two of its finest features: food and drink. It's here, that in respect of my opening sentences, the problem of “venturing off the beaten track” proves more troublesome still. After all, recommend a restaurant that nobody knows and people will start to get suspicious.

At the risk of upsetting the balance, however, let me throw two propositions into the mixer that might fit either end of the spectrum. The first, Taberna de Cien Vinos (100 Wines, Calle del Nuncio, 17), located in La Latina, is a small dark den of debauchery unknown to most despite serving up tasty free pinchos and cheap raciones. The second, Café Moderno (Plaza Comendadoras, 1), is more widely known, but still just as fun thanks to a massive outdoor terrace, nightly live music and twice-weekly literary recitals.

Recommending bars in a city that has more per capita than anywhere else in Europe is never going to be easy. Really want to enjoy the best that Madrid has to offer? Then do away with any attempt to follow a beaten track.

In a city like this, which has as much or as little of anything you want, the path you decide to tread is yours and nobody else’s.

ACCOMMODATION The Westin Palace, Plaza de las Cortes, 7 (rooms from VND3 million per night) Hotel Vincci Capitol, Calle Gran Via, 41 (rooms from VND1.3 million per night) Petit Palace, Puerta del Sol (rooms from VND840,000 per night) For More Information www.tourspain.es

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OUT & ABOUT

Cut the Beef, Already

OXTAIL HOTPOT

FILLET STEAK

Popular as a soup in many countries, the Vietnamese enjoy oxtail as a hotpot, complete with vegetables, tofu and mushrooms. Hotpots are priced at around VND100,000 for two people. Available at Quan 14 (14 Tran Binh Trong, Binh Thanh).

Considered by some to be the king of all steak cuts, fillet comes from the lower part of the ribcage. As this area of the cow carries very little weight, the meat is very tender with excess fat trimmed off on fillet cuts. The Chateaubriand for two at New York Steakhouse (25 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3) is priced at VND1.7 million for the premium natural.

From classic sirloin steak, to beef blood, ribs and bone marrow, no part of the cow is disregarded as having the potential to become a delicious dish. Stephanie Cantrell dissects the meat from the bone and searches places to eat it, too.

Photos by EJ Chung

RIB-EYE

SHORT RIBS

Cut from the middle of the rib section of the cow, ribeye steak is lauded for its intense flavour due to the marbling on the meat that keeps it tender as it cooks.

El Gaucho (5D/04 Nguyen Sieu, Q1) offers a 200g Prime Black Angus ribeye at VND650,000 or a choice ribeye for VND450,000.

Din Ky (137C Nguyen Trai, Q1) is the place for short ribs, a hearty meal of tender yet textured meat that you can really get your teeth into. The dish here comes accompanied by a generous helping of fries and vegetables and is priced at VND102,000.

TENDERLOIN This steak is cut from the same region of the cow as the fillet, the short loin.

It is also heralded as a prime cut due to its tender texture. The tenderloin at ZanZbar (41 Dong Du, Q1) is priced at VND440,000 for a New Zealand steak and VND580,000 for an American Angus. According to the restaurant, all meat cuts are carefully checked by executive chef, Ana Esteves, for quality.

MARROW The marrow (tuy bo lan bot chien) is served in batter and resembles a chicken nugget. The meat is soft and flavourful, perfectly delectable with a chilli and garlic dipping sauce. One plate is VND90,000 at Bo Tung Xeo (31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1).

INTESTINE Served as a take on the ubiquitous curry, beef intestine (pha lau bo) is said to be beneficial for digestion.

The intestine and broth can be eaten alone or used as a dipping sauce with bread. The dish is priced at VND20,000 per bowl and is available down the alley at 243 Ton Dan, Q4.

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PENIS BLOOD The slightly cloudy beef blood and broth soup is served with freshly chopped spring onions on top and is available at most pho restaurants for VND30,000 a bowl.

Find it at Pho Hung (241 Nguyen Trai, Q1).

Rather ominous-looking as the meat bubbles in the hot pot, this meat promises health and vitality to those who eat it — there’s even quite a decent flavour to the slightly chewy meat. The dish pin tiem thuoc bac can be found at Bo Tung Xeo (31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) and costs VND110,000 a go.

SIRLOIN STEAK Cut from the rear of the animal, close to the short loin, sirloin steak comes in many different grades; the top quality cut being the top sirloin. Shri (72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3) offers a New Zealand imported sirloin for VND395,000.

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The vegetable ratatouille possesses a rich, cheesy body while the potato puree is light and sweet, resulting in an interesting juxtaposition of textures and flavours.

We finish the evening decadently with the Ly Club strawberry cheesecake and warm moelleux au chocolat. The cheesecake arrives with half a dozen sliced strawberries coated in a coulee sauce and a small scoop THE PRICES of strawberry sorbet

MYSTERY DINER

Our food pundit heads to District 3 to review the city’s first Chilean restaurant with a detour to a Ly Dynasty-inspired fine dining experience. Photos by EJ Chung

Chile House

Ly Club

42BIS TRAN QUOC THAO, Q3. TEL: 6290 7598

143 NAM KY KHOI NGHIA, Q3. TEL: 3930 5588

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ith the increasing cosmopolitan nature of this city and diners’ willingness to dabble in the exotic, the addition of Chile House, the first Chilean restaurant in Saigon, should be regarded less as a surprise and more an inevitability.

Upon entering Chile House, we noticed that everyone was sipping on the red stuff, be it merlot, cabernet sauvignon or syrah, not surprising with the extensive wine list on offer — around 20 reds and whites to choose from, and ranging from VND80,000 to VND120,000 per glass and VND245,000 to VND3 million per bottle. Such a mix pleases both entry-level wine drinkers and those looking for something more sophisticated.

I order the Santa Rita Reserva merlot.

At VND120,000 a glass it’s one of the more expensive options but worth every dong. Velvety, soothing and warm, its aroma combines ripened black fruits, plum undertones and spicy notes, lingering long after it’s been swilled back. Lovely.

The menu presents over 40 dishes, many of which are advertised as traditional north Chilean specialities loved by Spanish noblemen, including chicken in syrah wine, goat with chardonnay au gratin and

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multiple savoury corn and pastry-based cakes.

We start with the Chile soup. Presented in a large, white porcelain tureen, it consists of ground beef, onions, white beans and stewed tomatoes. The soup has a lucid consistency and possesses an orangeybrown tinge similar to oxtail or minestrone soup. It’s hot, but not in the spicy sense, which I find disappointing. Though a sprinkling of black pepper adequately remedies the problem.

Out next is the Pinera sandwich that was created by Chilean president Sebastian Pinera upon his visit last month. Made up of smoked salmon, rocket and cream cheese wedged between two slices of brown bread, it’s a modest snack that benefits from lashings of what appears to be parsley oil. Though tasty, a lack of sides and the VND120,000 price tag could leave some dissatisfied, especially when other eateries downtown offer more for less.

We order a house favourite for our main course — beef tenderloin with merlot glazing. The beef is difficult to cut through, though we attribute this to the knife rather than quality of the meat, which itself is good considering it’s locally reared. The merlot

glaze is excellent. Rich, sweet and tangy, this dish is truly mouth-watering, though some potatoes on the side would have topped it off.

With a rather limited dessert section (either flan or fruit) we opt for a Chilean adaptation of a South American regional favourite, the empanada de pino. This baked delicacy comes filled with beef, onions, black olives and a hard-boiled egg. Though savoury, the waitress insists it’s a dessert. And much like the restaurant’s idiosyncratic interior décor, we find the ‘cake’ a little odd before eventually warming to it.

We’re not blown away by the food, but the wine was superb. We’d be willing to return to Chile House for more of both.

THE PRICES CHILE SOUP VND140,000 PINERA SANDWICH VND120,000 BEEF TENDERLOIN VND195,000 EMPANADA DE PINO VND89,000

THE VERDICT

8.5 11 7.5 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

T

hough looks aren’t everything, it’s hard not to be dazzled by Ly Club’s plush aesthetic beauty — itself a homage to the creative prowess of the Ly Dynasty. Elegant yet casual, we sit in a softly lit and greenly shrouded front garden, surrounded by comfy Frenchstyle garden furniture atop a raised wooden deck area. A stunning infinity fountain, a vast French colonial villa and a sleek outdoor bar make for captivating eye candy. The cacophonous rush hour traffic is replaced by the swirl of Eurasian lounge music.

The menu is divided into two sections — east and west. However, such a simplistic notion is betrayed by the fact that the majority of dishes appear to incorporate elements of both Asian and western cuisine. The overriding influence, though, is French.

We order from both sections and start with the pan seared scallops and crunchy black sticky rice with saffron lime, green herb oil, lime leaf and fennel salad, as well as an order of deep fried seafood stuffed in eggshells. We’re taken aback by the exemplary presentation afforded to each dish.

Three large, pearly-white scallops sit on the darkened rice cakes — all tender and meaty. The white butter and herb oil add a zesty and fragrant creaminess that complements both the shellfish and the drier texture of the rice. Sublime.

The deep-fried seafood, which arrives in several egg-coated ringlets, catches us off guard. Perhaps naively on our part, we’re both shocked to find ourselves chewing, literally, on eggshells. It’s an acquired taste, and probably something I’d not order again, though the spices flavouring the assorted fish and sweetness of the accompanying plum sauce is delicious.

For mains, we order the grilled freerange chicken with tropical honey sauce and roasted lamb rack with vegetable ratatouille and potato puree. Simply put, both taste and look fantastic. The chicken and lamb have been grilled and roasted to perfection. The former is tender and moist, possessing a satisfyingly crispy exterior that works well with the honey glaze, while the interior of the latter is an exquisite pink.

Our only minor complaint is that the lamb is a little too fatty, though there’s still enough juicy meat to satiate our quibbles.

in a wafer basket.

It’s the better of the two as we find the moelleux au chocolat a tad bitter, even with the addition of crème fraiche and orange slices. The cheesecake is dense and could be considered too sweet for some, but we find it utterly moreish.

Sure, it’s expensive, but the lack of pretension and the bang you get for your buck — especially in such eyepleasing surrounds — means the near-VND2 million we spent on two three-course meals was well spent.

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

SCALLOPS VND 235,000 STUFFED SEAFOOD EGGSHELLS VND160,000 LAMB RACK VND525,000 GRILLED CHICKEN VND180,000 LY CLUB CHEESECAKE VND125,000 MOELLEUX AU CHOCOLAT VND125,000

THE VERDICT

12.5 11.5 13 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

ARTS

PAINTING THE TOWN Designed to help you discover Vietnam’s artistic side, Sophie’s Art Tour is a must for any art history buff. Words by Michael Arnold. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly

I

must confess to feeling rather pleased with myself right now. I’ve recently become an expert in the history of modern Vietnamese art, and I’m quite looking forward to showing off my knowledge at the next party I attend, or impressing the next visitor from home who asks if there are any art galleries around here worth seeing.

This is not from reading any books or doing any actual research. I’ve cheated.

I’ve attended a new, succinctly presented, and quite fascinating tour, an epic journey through the history of contemporary local art in three hours by air-conditioned minivan.

I’ve become quite conversant in the trends, big names and stylistic techniques of this country’s art scene, and I can tell you how each particular art movement came about and what historical conditions they were influenced by.

That, in short, is what works about Sophie’s Art Tour — invented and presented

by Sophie Hughes, the former manager of one of Ho Chi Minh City’s leading modern art spaces Galerie Quynh and until recently director of Future Shorts Southeast Asia.

Sophie manages to take what some may consider a fairly arcane and high-brow subject and makes it simple. The pace is right,

68 | Word May 2012

the number of artists and works introduced are never too many to be confusing, and as you travel from venue to venue, the progression that unfolds is exceptionally lucid: it’s easy to see how one particular style gives rise to another, and the works you see later in the tour are clearly linked to those you saw at the beginning. The result is that you end up knowing a surprising amount about the subject.

Piecing it Together Part of the tour’s success stems directly from Sophie’s obvious passion for Vietnamese art, which translates into an enthusiastic and engaging presentation.

Making the tour coherent and easy to follow, however, wasn’t simple.

“At first, I was overwhelmed by the research,” she says. “I spent days wandering back and forth between the various halls of the Fine Arts Museum. Eventually I realised that it was too difficult to untangle the pieces, so I ended up getting a massive notice board and cutting up a load of old cornflakes boxes so I could do it visually. I made cards for all the artists and events and tried to map how they fit together.”

The resulting chart was something of an

artwork in itself, representing the whole development of modern Vietnamese art — and the tour that it has given rise to traces that journey in what appears to be a remarkably straight line from the Nguyen Dynasty right through to the present day.

It isn’t purely about what’s on the canvas either. The tour treads a sound path between history and art analysis, weaving the two together to create a narrative that follows neatly from point to point. The appreciation of the Vietnamese modern art tradition may be the substance of that narrative, but the tale itself encompasses far more.

“It’s got [culture], social commentary, history — it’s not just an art tour,” explains Sophie. “It’s not just talking about the brush strokes; it’s also about the tumultuous recent history of Vietnam. The bones of it is the influence of other countries on Vietnam; the inflow of foreign forms and contact with the outside world.”

She adds: “Art never exists in isolation.

It’s fascinating and expressive, like music, and usually the artist will express the world around them.”

The present tour transports guests through various private and public art spaces — but in an attempt to avoid it

becoming “stale”, the exact itinerary is still evolving. The associated website is similarly organic — not merely an extension of the tour itself, but an emerging blog/ information resource standing at the centre of Ho Chi Minh City’s modern art scene.

For someone so well-informed about her specialist subject, Sophie’s manner is straightforward. “I don’t consider myself to be an academic. I’m lucky to have contacts who’ve dedicated their lives to this subject.

I’ve navigated their work and interviewed many people, just to try to come up with a living story.”

She remains in awe of her mentor, the late Dr Boi Tran Huynh-Beattie who “dedicated her life to finding out the details. She would travel across the world to identify and research a single artwork. I practically begged her to mentor me, and much of what I learnt is directly from her”.

Drawn Into It Sophie’s Art Tour has come at a time when modern Vietnamese art is beginning to gain recognition. There’s a growing foreign interest in helping Vietnamese art to develop, but also a need to let Vietnamese art remain Vietnamese.

“I think the international art market has its eyes on Vietnam now that attention has shifted from China’s recent contemporary arts boom,” explains Sophie. “But if a Vietnamese artist hasn’t been exhibited or written about, there won’t be any interest in their artwork…

So it’s really important right now to have exhibition space and criticism to support the local artists.”

Galerie Quynh and several other prominent galleries are serving to bridge the gap between Vietnamese artists and the international arts market. But there won’t be a major unleashing of the Fine Arts here “until there’s a more general awareness of the economic value of artistic culture”.

If attending Sophie’s tour inspires you to get involved in what’s happening in local art, it’s a good starting point. There are a number of ways for people to get drawn into the art scene — look up the websites for the leading art galleries [there are multiple links provided on the Sophie’s Art Tour website] and get on their mailing lists. You can also attend the exhibition openings and events. It’s a way to meet other people involved in art and the artists themselves always attend.

More about Sophie’s Art Tour’s can be found at www.sophiesarttour.com

May 2012 Word | 69

I

GENERATION V

ACTING UP Drama D rama gives gives children children a lliving iving context context in n which which tthey hey ccan an create create narratives, draw off llanguage n arratives, d raw on on patterns patterns o anguage aand nd sspeak peak cconfi onfidently dently aass James Allen nds byy EEJ Chung J ames A llen fin ds out. out. Photos Photos b JC hung

70 | Word May 2012

f parents have learnt anything from the reality TV show Toddlers and Tiaras, it’s that regardless of the amount of sequins and pressure you pile on your child, being a star at the age of six just might not be their thing. But studying music, drama or dance isn’t all about becoming a star. For kids there are countless benefits and none of them require makeup, hair extensions and fanatical parents with curling irons.

In Ho Chi Minh City, many parents are realising that their child can learn more from drama classes than seeking applause.

They might even learn a second language and gain some much needed confidence.

Helen Cowie, principal of the Helen O’Grady Drama Academy (www. helenogrady.vn), explains that she is “not looking for a star”. Naturally, certain children will be more extroverted and confident than others, but there isn’t a big production at the end of the course with a lead role as with most drama programmes.

Helen explains that the lack of pressure to audition for a top spot allows every child to build individual skills that can be applied to many different areas of their life, so even if they don’t eventually get their own chat show and starring credit, they can take away a set of unique skills.

Following a set curriculum involving separate stages focusing on speech, improvisation, script and character development and movement, teachers approach many different elements of the subject.

Despite the classes being held in English, more and more Vietnamese students are signing up. Zack, a teaching

assistant at the academy, explains that even though “it's not considered important” and parents “would prefer letting their children study English or music, rather than drama” the parents are gradually becoming more supportive of the idea of drama as an extracurricular activity.

Aaron Wilson from the Performing Arts Academy (www.paa.com.vn) also points out that it’s not “widely viewed as very prestigious to be a performing artist as in other locations,” but he admits that this is changing with parents bringing students “from all over the city to join classes at the academy”.

For Helen it’s important that parents realise that the sole aim of the class is not to find a star, especially when they see how their children develop in joining activities, speaking, communicating and listening.

Diversity by Design Ho Chi Minh City’s vibrant mix of cultures, especially among the foreign community, means that the drama academy caters to many different learning styles and backgrounds.

“What may seem as a challenge is the diversity of backgrounds of the children,” says Claire Harcla, one of the school’s drama teachers; evident by the class’ popularity amongst the Korean and Japanese community. “But I actually feel that this is a really positive aspect within the drama classroom because it allows for the contribution of a vast range of creative ideas.”

An obvious factor is the language

barrier involved, especially with children as young as four years old, but the benefits of so much speech training mixed in with acting games can only be a good thing.

Setting the Stage Drama carries with it not merely the ability to belt out a mean set of chords with jazz hands, it also teaches a lot of basic techniques such as body awareness, articulation and creative thinking, not to mention the social aspect of team work, negotiation and listening skills. It’s not for everyone and the cold fear of stage fright can affect the best of us, but how actors get to the stage can be just as important.

Helen recalls many students who have changed dramatically over relatively short periods of time. “Some are just not used to being creative. They’re petrified, but it’s a great outlet for them.”

She has also seen a huge amount of progress in students once they get the hang of things. However, it’s not all fun and games, although that certainly helps — learning through drama can greatly improve students' self-esteem as well as developing their verbal communication.

For second language English students, classes place more emphasis on supportive language along with games that present a whole host of opportunities to perfect accent and annunciation.

But academic benefits aside, in a city full of kids wiling away their precious time they have when they aren’t nose down in their textbooks, getting dramatic could be just the thing to help them learn to express themselves.

May 2012 Word | 71

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76 | Word May 2012

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 080 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 089 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 103 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 120 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 126 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 134 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 142 PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

A D D IT ION A L F EATUR ES

Destination Zero 090 Travel Promos 096 Foodie Corner 108 Cafe Critique 114 Food Promos 116 Vietnam Top 10 120 For The Record 121 Road Rules 122 Decks 'n' Drums 124 In The Frame 125

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 080 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 080 BUSINESS CONSULTING 082 BUSINESS GROUPS 082 CONSUMER GIFTS 083 EVENT MANAGEMENT 083 EXPAT SERVICES 083 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 083 INSURANCE 084 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 084

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM 11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam A member firm of Deloitte Touche

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 084 LAUNDRY 086 LEGAL SERVICES 086 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 086 MARKET RESEARCH 087 PUBLIC RELATIONS 088 RECRUITMENT & HR 088 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 088 SERVICED APARTMENTS 088

Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more.

Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266, www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED 7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS

companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting.

Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group.

Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

BBDO VIETNAM

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

TMF GROUP

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries.

Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam. This includes services such as incorporation of

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM 13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

and marketing agency focused on communications and brand building.

The team, established in Vietnam for many years, is a blend of international expertise and local know–how capable of giving marketers clever ways to connect their brands with consumers for winning results.

EDGE MARKETING

RIVER ORCHID

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

GREY GROUP

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM 113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network.

Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS 10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn An independent, full–service branding

80 | Word May 2012

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA

3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1 Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

business BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858, www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1. Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

ERNST & YOUNG 8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

business GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1. Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial

IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing.

Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a long-term strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research.

Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons

and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423, www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM C3 Floor 5, 21-Century Apartment, 326/1 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services.

Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

CHUM’S HOUSE

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD. 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross– cultural and business awareness training.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1. Tel: 3824 6125, www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707, www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

Tel: 01269 502790, www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

CONSUMER GIFTS

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Also does research and management services.

PHOTO OI!

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

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EVENT MANAGEMENT GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

ments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

THE CATERERS

EXPAT SERVICES 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916, www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill pay-

May 2012 Word | 83

business EASY SAIGON www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate.

As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam.

Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777, www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Hotline: 0989 00 77 00, www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1 Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193, www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate

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services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD. Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205, www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125, www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

PRUDENTIAL

SNAP

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901, www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale.

Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM) Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam.

Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE Tel: 3825 8416, www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits.

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355, www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates.

Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash–flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930, www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the

Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING 26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM 28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM 51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492, www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extra-curricular activities during the holidays.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED) 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training &

Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585, www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS INTERNATIONAL LAWYERS Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm licensed as a foreign law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides legal advice on all areas of business and commerce within the country.

COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

MICKEY LAUNDRY

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN 16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717, www.vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860, www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING BRAINBOX VIETNAM 5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405, www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development

programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

RMIT 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development.

Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION 11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989, www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997.

Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices.

Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM 13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies.

With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with

business a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

NIELSEN CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM 105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP 30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting.

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA) 1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS 37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

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RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM 8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT 4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries.

NAVIGOS GROUP

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

ALLIED PICKFORDS

CITYVIEW

2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD. 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4. Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 4237, www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

OPUS VIETNAM RO

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM (FORMALLY WATSON WYATT AND SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network.

Also local, domestic and office moves.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

JASMINE COURT 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes.

Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a four-fixture en suite with shower.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

Tel: 2226 8855, www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam.

SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3 Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment

LISTINGS

DALAT 089 HANOI 091 AROUND HANOI 092 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 094 HCMC DELUXE 095 HCMC MID-RANGE 095 HCMC BUDGET 095 HOI AN & DA NANG 096 HUE & QUANG BINH 098 NHA TRANG 098 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 099

ANA MANDARA VILLAS

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

CREDIT

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA $$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

$$

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

ICONS 101 CREDIT

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

PHU QUOC 100 SAPA 100 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 100 TRAVEL SERVICES 101 COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 080 TRAVEL NOTES 084 TRAVEL PROMOS 086

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

DALAT

CREDIT

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one– to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

DESTINATION

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

destination

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES SMOKE-FREE ROOMS GYM SWIMMING POOL BUSINESS FACILITIES

CREDIT

$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, the Dalat Green City Hotel is a no-frills budget option. Newly refurbished, the 12 guestrooms are basic but provide free Wi-Fi. A single room without breakfast barely dents the wallet at VND400,000 per night, while a double room is charged at VND630,000. Add breakfast and the rates are slightly higher. A coffee shop is located on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre. Guests also enjoy a 10 percent discount at V Café.

DALAT PALACE

CREDIT

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat. Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms.

DREAMS HOTEL 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular.

You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND200,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities.

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

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$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat, Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

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destination HANOI CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI $$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

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FRASER SUITES

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails.

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Puerto Princesa, a gateway to Philippines’ Palawan. Words and Photo by Robert Stockdill

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL $ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots.

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ne of the first things a visitor to the Palawan capital Puerto Princesa hears upon arrival is a warning not to toss any candy wrappers or cigarette butts into the gutters.

Thanks to a fervent campaign by former city mayor Edward S Hagedorn, Puerto Princesa must have the cleanest streets in the country. Get caught littering three times and you go to jail! Yes, jail for littering!

Puerto Princesa means City in a Forest.

Budget carriers Cebu Pacific, Zest Air, Air Asia or AirPhil offer many direct flights from Manila or Clark at fares from as low as VND420,000.

No matter where you stay, getting around town is easy by local tricycle. There are no car taxis here; instead you hail quaint tin chariots built over motorcycles.

Some fit two at an absolute squeeze, others three in comfort. They are all open air, leak like a sieve and transmit every undulation in the road directly to your spine, but they’re functional, plentiful and cost just 20 cents a head for a short trip within town.

The Philippines is not renowned for its cuisine, which is surprising because local dishes like sweet and sour lapu lapu (fish) and pancit canton (a colourful noodle dish) can be delicious and nutritious in one.

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Seafood is plentiful here - Palawan boasts a 2,000km coastline.

Kinabuchs, a huge outdoor restaurant offers a Palaweño delicacy for the truly brave: tamilok — woodworm harvested from mangrove trees, likened in flavour to oysters but far less appealing to the eye, (if that is possible!).

River Life There are two great day itineraries: Day 1: Take a tricycle to the picturesque Honda Bay and hire an outrigger style wooden boat to go island hopping. Swim with the fishes — be warned, they bite, but there’ll be no lasting damage. Snorkelling gets you close to an abundance of tame sea life, you can bake on the expansive white sandy beaches, swim in the clear waters or snack on fresh food offered by roaming vendors, washed down with fresh coconut juice or cold beer. Get caught in a squall on the way back and watch as the tropical downpour smoothes the surface of the sea.

Afterwards head to Kim’s Hotspring on the way back to Puerto Princesa where you can soak in rejuvenating natural mineral pools.

Day 2:

Book a day trip with your own personal driver to the famous Underground River. A visit includes a cumbersome bureaucratic process involving a licence bought in Puerto Princesa exchanged for a ticket after the two hour road journey: no licence, no ticket. Our advice: leave the bureaucracy to the driver and treat yourself to a fresh mango smoothie, American style breakfast and espresso coffee at the expat-run Itoy’s Coffee Haus in downtown.

The underground river is accessed by a boat trip around a point to a staging post where giant monitors wander by the path and monkeys noisy leap from tree to tree high above your head. A raft takes groups on the river journey into giant cavernous caves where tiny bats dangle from exotic rock formations crafted by nature over thousands of years. The guides are passionate about the river and you feel like they’re taking you on a tour of their house, complete with often laugh out loud observations about the decor and the house guests. Be warned!

If you’ve not ventured to the Philippines before, three days in Puerto Princesa is likely to give you an insatiable thirst for Asia’s most underrated travel destination.

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this

five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

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$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid– range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar.

The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique–style hotel offers quite a deal.

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite.

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Viet Nam Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

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destination SOFITEL METROPOLE

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

JUNGLE BEACH

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

MANGO BAY

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

MEKONG LODGE

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

MIA NHA TRANG

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

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$$$ 52 Hang Trong, Hanoi Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

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CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK $ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins.

They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself.

A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

LA VIE VU LINH $ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bambooconstructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night.

Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the

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destination beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

TRAVEL NOTES WORDS BY TIM RUSSELL

Scam Forums Reading the Vietnam forums on popular travel review site Tripadvisor, one theme immediately becomes apparent — the ripping off of tourists by taxi drivers, shoeshine boys, street traders, unscrupulous travel agents, etc. Not a day goes by without some unfortunate visitor telling tales of US$50 airport taxi rides, US$5 bananas or ‘luxury’ Halong Bay cruises that turn out to be anything but.

Yes, tourist scams exist in every country with a tourism industry, but it seems in Vietnam the scamming is a lot more widespread and upfront than in most other countries — strange for a country whose people set such store by the concept of ‘face.’

What’s interesting about scam forums on Tripadvisor are the various types of reaction. The most outraged are, of course, the victims, particularly those who are inexperienced travellers and haven’t done a great deal of pre-trip research, and who arrive expecting a friendly country full of smiling people in conical hats and have their expectations dashed before they’ve even left the airport. Their bad experience colours the rest of their holiday and they go home and tell their friends/family what a dreadful country Vietnam is.

Then there are those who, despite having fallen prey to some scam or other, just shrug it off, figure that they’ve only lost a few dollars, and don’t let it ruin their trip. They might be a bit more on their guard for the rest of their stay, but they figure that a few bad apples don’t spoil the entire barrel. They get home and tell

stories of an exciting country that is challenging but rewarding to travel in.

CULTURAL RELATIVISTS And finally there’s a group I refer to as cultural relativists. Usually reluctant to be called ‘tourists’ (they prefer the word ‘traveller’ or, in some appalling cases, ‘nomad.’ God help us) they are well-travelled, love rough and ready destinations like Vietnam, and see being ripped off as part of the travel experience. If a taxi driver overcharges them or a shoeshine guy steals their shoes, it’s OK, because everyone has to make a living — though luxury hotel or private airport transfer rates seem to fill them with rage. Seems the right to make a living doesn’t extend to everyone.

Unfortunately for Vietnam, the first group is usually the most vocal — people with something to complain about tend to shout the loudest. And the latter two groups may seem admirably tolerant and open-minded, but their indulgence of scamming and tourist hassle does more harm than good. Yes, everyone has a right to make a living, but if they can’t do so honestly, they don’t deserve to, and seeing their cheating or stealing as part and parcel of travelling in Vietnam simply makes the problem worse.

Tourism in Vietnam has been the preserve of the intrepid and adventurous for too long — if the industry is to take off, it needs to attract holidaymakers and less experienced travellers, the type who generally fall into the first group. At the moment, it is scaring them off.

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa.

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers.

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com This 247-room hotel is perfect for both leisure and business customers, featuring an international buffet restaurant, lobby lounge, rooftop bar and a wellness centre, which includes a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. Also provides five meeting rooms offering the latest AV equipment over 400sqm of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons.

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PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE $$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best–regarded Chinese restaurants in the city.

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REX HOTEL

WINDSOR PLAZA

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial.

Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches.

HCMC DELUXE

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers.

Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

CONTINENTAL

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3 Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs.

Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine.

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NORFOLK HOTEL

RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

SABENA HOTEL

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room

technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3999 8888 www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit.

A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

DUC VUONG HOTEL

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$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area.

DUNA HOTEL

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$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well.

A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience.

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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destination

travel Promos ALLEZ BOO RESORT Enjoy a summer promotion with rooms priced at VND490,000 on weekdays and VND690,000 on weekends. Prices are based on two people sharing and include daily breakfast, a welcome drink and a fruit basket. The offer is valid until Oct. 15.

For more details, visit www.allezboo.com CARAVELLE HOTEL The hotel is launching an elite category for its Caravelle Heritage Club (CHC) members, designed to deliver preferred treatment and select benefits to the hotel’s most loyal guests. Beginning Apr. 1, Signature membership will open to all current CHC members holding a minimum of 10,000 points or 60 qualifying nights. The upgrade to Signature membership covers all benefits of CHC Basic membership such as F&B discounts and early check-in, late check-out, in addition to new offers.

For more details, visit www.caravellehotel.com SUNRISE NHA TRANG BEACH HOTEL & SPA Families (parents and 1 child under 12 years old) staying at Sunrise

Nha Trang can enjoy 2 nights in a superior room with private balcony facing Nha Trang Bay. The package offers families not only daily breakfasts but also a special set menu dinner, complimentary transportation to and from the hotel, and 10 percent discount on laundry and tour services.

Moreover, for longer summer breaks, the Fantastic Summer Holiday package gives 10 percent discount on extension nights. The package costs VND5,850,000 and is valid from May 5 to Oct. 31.

For more info, visit www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn NOVOTEL NHA TRANG A combination of body massage and facial will stimulate circulation, relax the muscles, moisturise and nourish your skin face. A manicure or pedicure or foot reflexology will complete the experience. Priced at VND1,500,000 per package, this offer is valid until the end of May. Book a room and enjoy a free night: Stay three consecutive nights and pay for only two. The promotion is valid from now till Jun. 30.

For more details, visit www.novotel.com NOVOTEL PHAN THIET

GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA

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Experience their 18-hole golf course designed by Nick Faldo and challenge your golf swing at the hotel. The package is valid from now till Oct. 31. Bookings must be made in advance. The booking is subject to availability and not applicable on public holidays.

For more details, visit www.novotel.com VICTORIA HOTELS A selection of summer promotions — in Sapa get a 30 percent discount on room rates for all rooms from Jun. 1 to Jul. 3; in Can Tho get 30 percent off on rooms from Apr. 1 to May 31, and in Chau Doc a special deal for 2 nights stay includes a 50 percent discount for the second night and a free half day Chau Doc River Life Tour. Or enjoy a second promotion for superior rooms that includes VND1,887,000 per night, with daily breakfast for 2 persons, a Vietnamese Set Lunch or Dinner and a complimentary upgrade to Deluxe room upon availability (valid from Apr. 1 to Sep. 30) For more info, visit www.victoriahotels-asia.com

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$ 171A Co Bac, Q1 Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA

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$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

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$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1 Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five– star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

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FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

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HUY HOANG 1 $ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town.

Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT & SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the

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AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330. www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488. www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098. www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort.

The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion.

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BIKE RENTALS CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

SAIGON HOT WHEELS Tel: 0120 3077882 Specialising in Yamaha bikes only, latest models available for rent include the Nuevo LX 135cc and Luvius 125cc. Unbeatable prices. Servicing and oil change included.

Long-term contracts preferred. Call Adam on the number provided.

SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh, Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals.

Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000 www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences.

With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable

that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the best run hotels in town.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

$$ Tel: 058 384 0501 www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA

$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

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$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

SUN SPA RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

NHA TRANG EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA CREDIT

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara–nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

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$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA $$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel CREDIT

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

re r tu pa

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY

& Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea.

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

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AIR ASIA www.airasia.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool.

JAPAN

TRADITIONS & FUTURE 6 days/5 nights – 6 to 12 July 2012

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PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777 www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

FROM VND 61,550,000/PERSON Maximum 10 travelers Tel: 08-3827 9170

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang) Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal.

The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences.

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room CREDIT

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destination

destination BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322 www.blueoceanresort.com After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant.

Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

NOVOTEL PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT $$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3822 393 www.novotel.com/2067 This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view.

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PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam

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is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay.

Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

SHADES APARTMENTS

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237 www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options.

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT $$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French–Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

LA VERANDA

VICTORIA SAPA

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$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988 contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully–designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach.

MANGO BAY

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid–back and simple. And cheap.

SAPA CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE $$ Cat Cat Road Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant,

and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities. $$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City.

The resort is highlighted by a selection of 63 uniquely designed Indochine bungalows and villas that promise a local experience with international–standard accommodation. Also has an excellent spa facility and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

BINH AN VILLAGE

REX HOTEL

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$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522 www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

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$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere.

Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

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HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc.

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VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT & SPA

Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

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$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour

TRAVEL SERVICES ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS 7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia.

AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconutshaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

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$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront

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Budget Rent–a–Car

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies.

With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

Buffalo Tours Agency

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

Come & Go Vietnam

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

Dalat Easy Rider

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

Exotissimo

64 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service.

Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

Flight Travel Company

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

Flipper Diving Club Phu Quoc

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872 www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German,

LISTINGS

Fly Vietnam

Kim Travel

270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

2 Lam Son

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboo-style décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the latenight party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will.

Amber Room

Terraverde

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LOUNGE BAR First Floor, 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3686 www.theamberoom.com 3pm to midnight A small but atmospheric, living-room style London meets New York lounge opposite the Sheraton Hotel. Has chilled out tunes during the late afternoon and more funky

91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

vibes at night. A pleasant meeting place for the latest cocktails, a good coffee and a glass of wine. Also has an extensive champagne list with probably the largest offering of champagnes by the glass available in town. Holds regular events.

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MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music.

Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

Blue Gecko

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AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League.

One of the longest running watering holes in town.

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60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@ tutrangtravel.com.

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TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

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columns foodie corner 108 cafe critique 114 food promos 116

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am.

Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay five-star prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

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restaurants southeast asian 117 restaurants - vietnamese 117

BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

Intrepid Travel Vietnam

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visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

bar & nightclubs 103 cafes 106 restaurants - chinese 107 restaurants - french 108 restaurants - indian 109 restaurants - international 109 restaurants - italian 113 restaurants - japanese & korean 114

www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals.

Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure.com for more details.

out & about

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Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

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MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York.

Run by a well-known, locally based DJ,

DJ DJ

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the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

while the open kitchen, headed up by chefs from Japan, Australia, Thailand and Vietnam, serves a mix of contemporary international and Asian cuisine. Signature drinks aplenty can also be ordered from the bar. Be sure to dress well as Chill operates a no shorts and no sandals dress code policy.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR

CLOUD 9

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere.

Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0948 343399 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet.

It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylightdrenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées.

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

BUDDHA BAR

FUSE

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INTERNATIONAL 7 Thao Dien, Q2 3pm to 12am daily Tucked away in An Phu, this long-standing establishment provides great food and drinks at reasonable prices. With a long bar, pool table, darts, live sports, good music, and friendly staff, it’s easy to relax and have a good time. A variety of cuisine is offered, from beef pies and burgers to beef tenderloin, spare ribs and Swiss-style fondue. Quiz night on Wednesdays, ladies night on Tuesdays and live music every first Friday of the month.

CHILL SKYBAR 26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372 www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering spectacular views of Ho Chi Minh City, Chill is located on the rooftop of A&B Tower in downtown District 1. DJ Kenzo Trinh provides a playlist of ambient dance tunes and up-tempo lounge tracks,

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TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations

in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

GOSSIP

and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes.

HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners.

A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitus-inducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the twotiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

LAVISH

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so– regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices.

However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB

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LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the French-run Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

LUSH

on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S

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IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups.

Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

OCEAN CLUB

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TECHNO / VIETNAMESE POP Nha Rong Port Area, 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: 6269 6999 www.oceanclub.com.vn/club 9pm to late Following the demise of the now nearmythical Starwars, Ocean Club has filled the void with a sensory overload of neon lighting, outlandish décor and a booming soundsystem that tests the limitations of what the human can take. A couple of thousand people can easily squeeze into the huge club hall with dozens of tables, booths and VIP areas dotted throughout. The solar system print on the ceiling and futuristic designs will have your eyes darting every which way whilst a relentless playlist of trance, techno and house is mixed by Vietnamese DJs. Then there’s the live Vietnamese music, too. Make sure to dress the part for the catwalk, this is Vietnamese clubbing at its most contemporary and luxurious.

PHATTY’S

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46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beer-guzzling but homely atmosphere.

Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

QING

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, boothlike, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celtic-themed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home–style pub grub in town with

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights

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DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semi-private sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

VASCO’S

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

A paragon downtown party venue popular with expats and tourists that showcases a range of events from DJ nights through to cover bands and live music from overseas. Has a downstairs terrace area with a separate aircon room and two upstairs bars together with a stage for gigs and much more. Snack menu includes burgers, sandwiches, skewers and some of the best pizzas in town.

VELVET

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

VIBE BILLARDS AND LOUNGE

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

CAFES AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY) OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes.

So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

AU PARC EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes creative sandwiches and salads as well as kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

BOBBY BREWER’S INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

CACOPHONY LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu.

CENTRO ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains.

Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1.

CITY GARDEN CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825 www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends.

Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbuckslike work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more.

GLORIA JEAN’S INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

I’M YOURS MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu

Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL 2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own.

Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare.

Live music on the weekends.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s Frenchstyle wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

PETITE NOTE MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3 Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American.

Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

STELLA CAFFE ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs.

Although, the service is questionable.

THI CAFÉ

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RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but lounge-style Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a panAsian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

MID-RANGE TAN HAI VAN PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into

Cafe fare made with American flair

TRUNG NGUYEN 50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the ever-expanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

UP CAFE CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport.

With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower 169a De Tham @ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

106 | The Word April 2012

out & about the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

MID TO TOP

foodie CORNER

DYNASTY CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

KABIN

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES

That Flame Grilled Feeling THERE ARE SOME VIETNAMESE dishes that seem to regularly win favour with foreign diners. One such dish is com tam. The name refers to the shattered grains of rice that are used in the recipe — developed by poor farming communities, who in times gone by would sell the whole grains but reserve for themselves the rice that broke during the rough threshing process. A humble peasant’s dish this may be, but the resulting meal has a soft, fluffy consistency with a slightly nutty flavour.

It’s not the rice so much that beguiles the foreign palate, of course, but the pleasantly charcoaled pork shoulder steaks that are usually served with it.

This is the closest Saigon street food gets to a barbecue — the meat is sizzle-grilled and moist, and served with salty pickled vegetables and a sweet sauce that serves to bring out a pleasant tartness to the meat.

Ho Chi Minh City is often said to be home to the best com tam in the country. It’s not an uncommon dish to be found at roadside stalls — and there’s even a popular fast food chain specialising in the cuisine. For those looking for less homogenised version of the

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish.

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

recipe, however — the kind where you can almost taste the flame licking at the meat — you’ll need to head out into the suburbs.

AN INSTITUTE In District 11, Com Tam Thuan Kieu (54 Thuan Kieu, Q11; www. comtamthuankieu.com.vn) serves the good stuff. Lean, medium-cut steaks are seared and lightly sweetened, without the burnt, fatty chunks you might be served on the streets — scoring well on all the elements that make for great com tam. The restaurant counts as a local institution — manager Nguyen Tung Khanh claims they’ve been operating for around 30 years — and the premises are brightly painted in green and yellow, neither smoky nor grimy, with fresh bananas adorning every table.

Besides the classic variety (suon nuong, VND34,000), a well-stocked meat counter offers multiple variations on the dish.

Chinese-style barbecue pork (xa xiu , VND34,000) is a popular additional meat — very tenderly done at this restaurant — while the skewered frogs (ech nuong, VND48,000) are a more exotic side dish; the warm, moist flesh well-grilled, and tasting not unlike a chicken drumstick. Diners are encouraged to pick and choose at the counter, where you can supervise the preparation.

A small outlet opposite the restaurant sells dried meats and Vietnamese baguettes for those wanting to take something away for later. And if you can’t get out to District 11, then the restaurant has another branch at 26 Ton That Tung, Q1. — Michael Arnold

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

RESTAURANTS – FRENCH MID-RANGE LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, familyfriendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

LE JARDIN 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf.

Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically

Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe.

Booking advised.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two.

Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

MID TO TOP LA FOURCHETTE PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, two-storey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

TY COZ CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town.

A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

TOP-END LA CAMARGUE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 191 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting creates the atmosphere at this longrunning white tablecloth Saigon mainstay.

Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

L’OLIVIER FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known

for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warmtoned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

TROIS GOURMANDS CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

RESTAURANTS – INDIAN BUDGET BOMBAY INDIAN INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meat-based mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

THE PUNJABI NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000.

Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent.

MID-RANGE BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in 11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams.

Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

INDUS INDIAN INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

MUMTAZ NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com 11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

PEACHES

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

TANDOOR

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian fare and an efficient delivery service.

RESTAURANTS – INTERNATIONAL BUDGET CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system.

Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

LAM’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock

out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials.

BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf.

Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas.

BUDDHA BAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2 A large screen TV is the focus of this joint. The décor is pleasant and the menu draws from across Asia.

CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi.

Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life.

MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials.

SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids.

TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available.

Call for home delivery.

bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family.

MID-RANGE AL FRESCO’S

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eyecatching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

BERNIE’S BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays.

A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyoneknows-your-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

110 | Word May 2012

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.

Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is Tex-Mex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service.

For a full list of restaurants check the website.

and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10 Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

DOMINO'S PIZZA AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

MOGAMBO

STORM P

ZOOM CAFÉ

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars.

A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannah-esque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danishstyle fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

SCOTT AND BINH'S

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RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russian-run venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”.

Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

KITA RESTAURANT

SNAP CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistro-style and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area.

Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

IMPERIAL

SUBWAY 171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere.

Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

TRADERS

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

WARDA MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushion-friendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch.

The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

ZERO RESTAURANT & BAR

+ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 15 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 4593 www.zerorestaurant.com AC WIFI NS HH LM 10am to midnight A great place to while away several hours eating and drinking some of Saigon’s newest cuisine together with international wines, Zero is a boutique and intimate restaurant and bar. The food is varied and includes western and Vietnamese breakfasts, and lunches boast perennial favourites like burgers, fish n chips, 4 n 20 Aussie meat pies and some tasty local fare, all prepared with a twist. Daily happy hour from 3pm to 7pm.

MID TO TOP ALIBI

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

BOAT HOUSE

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

BOOMERANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592 www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafront-style restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australian-themed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000).

BLU BAR & GRILL INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex.

Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

BROTZEIT GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206 www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily AC WIFI The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers well-

out & about

DISTRICT 7 CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178 CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196 SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480 SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare.

THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868 TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166 WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461 YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

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out & about known German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

CHARNER CAFÉ EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

FIGARO

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.

Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.au 11am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the wellknown Australian chain, Hog’s Breath mixes hearty cuisine such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere.

Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long, easy-to-prop-yourself-up-at bar space, also has an outdoor on-thestreet terrace, a mainly new world wine list and a large selection of both local and imported beers. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

LA HABANA

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

MEKONG MERCHANT

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily.

The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc.

Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

MY PLACE

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3m Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

PASHA

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more.

PACHARAN

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas.

Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene.

The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

SKEWERS

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

VASCO’S AT THE CRESCENT

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MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Q7 Tel: 5414 1717 11am to 11pm. Closed Mondays A restaurant rather than a bar and events space, the District 7 incarnation of the iconic downtown bar Vasco’s offers up outdoor, terrace-style seating together with an attractive upstairs bar and lounge

area. Also has a great selection of wines courtesy of Bacchus Corner, who have a mini store on the premises. The cuisine runs the gamut from the likes of beef carpaccio and goat’s cheese salad all the way through to the beef tenderloin, seabass in Serrano ham and excellent pizzas.

VINO WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

ZANZBAR

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

TOP-END AU LAC DO BRAZIL

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room.

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this

downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

PARKVIEW

SHRI

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions.

Check their website for details.

QUO VADIS INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections.

The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well–sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

THE DECK

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm.

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up European-influenced Asian fusion cuisine in both an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

RESTAURANTS – ITALIAN BUDGET MARGHERITA ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with panwestern cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

SALT AND PEPPER TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

MID-RANGE CENTRO CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

STELLA CAFFE

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space.

Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area surrounded

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

BLANCHY’S TASH JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and late-night revellers thanks to its inventive Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

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by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

{cafe CRITIQUE}

MID TO TOP

PHOTO BY CHARLES BARNES

BASILICO

I.D CAFE ‘HIDDEN GEM’ IS A PHRASE TOO often used to describe ‘unique’ cafes in Ho Chi Minh City. I.d Café (34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1) on the other hand manages to earn the title legitimately. It’s not tucked down a back alley or down a winding passageway, it’s smack bang on the corner Ly Tu Trong and Thu Khoa Huan and it's different. The wooden façade and funky mismatched furniture outside peg it as stylish, but it’s the lack of a gimmick or theme that really makes it stand out.

There aren’t any signs pointing you upstairs, but compared to the darker more compact downstairs, it’s much larger and manages to be light but cozy. Hand-painted white images appear tastefully over the bare brick work, notably a songbird motif which can also be found embroidered on the cushions and armchairs.

Natural tones, earthy browns and vibrant greens fill the large upstairs space, accompanied by a healthy amount of wooden log tables, enough to be modern and quirky but not so much that you feel trapped in Heidi’s mountain retreat. A quick glance upwards and you will find the metallic industrial branches of a tree reaching towards the ceiling from the rafters.

around the top floor with high chairs and plants for guests to frown at the crescendo of traffic noises, or enjoy the early evening breeze.

The quality of this place is more than skin deep, it runs through the sunken upholstered armchairs and sofas and the excellent service, ensuring its design will long outlast others.

The food is Vietnamese, but very different from your usual café food. Com tam isn’t cheap here, but even the rice has an edge, cooked in coconut with a large handful of beautifully tender grilled pork. The same goes for the bun thit nuong, it’s excellently designed and delivered, and the sauce is really special, but a bit excessive with the garlic. Both dishes are VND65,000 and after eating, you find yourself accepting this without question.

The clientele is mostly business people, waving their iPads around with gusto and negotiating over a bright orange carrot smoothie (VND60,000). The drinks menu includes much of what you’d expect, with the addition of some interesting yoghurt (in triplicate) and some artful juices. I.d Café is refreshingly non gimmicky, tasteful and a true ‘hidden gem.”

EDGY RICE A small balcony also runs right

THE DRINK: 3.5/5

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AMBIENCE: 3.5/5

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes.

For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent wood-fire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellar-style dining space upstairs.

LA HOSTARIA TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

POMODORO PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House.

The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni.

This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

TOP-END LA BRACERIA PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

RESTAURANTS – JAPANESE & KOREAN

BUDGET ASIAN KITCHEN PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bambooclad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

TOKYO BBQ JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoalgrilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

MID-RANGE DRAGON NOODLE JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

MUS MUS JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish.

And it’s cheap, too.

OOO / MARUSAN YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm.

Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching

style

food Promos CARAVELLE Cool off with a refreshing mojito from May 7 to 20 in the Lobby Lounge.

Priced at VND 98,000++/mojito.

Mothers will be spoiled for choice at Nineteen Restaurant’s Sunday brunch and dinner buffet on May 13.

Priced at VND1,144,000++/pax.

Seafood enthusiasts can snap up freshly caught crab and cooked-toorder crab specialties at Nineteen Restaurant from May 18 to 24.

Rich duck livers at Reflections from May 18 to 24; Reflections have a degustation menu featuring three complementary duck liver courses followed by a seven-texture chocolate cake for dessert, and fresh coffee or tea for VND1,180,000++/pax.

Saigon Saigon Bar is punctuating on May 26 with a Cuban-themed Carnival Party on its famous rooftop with samba dancers in costume and non-stop music from Cuban bands Luna Negra and Warapo.

For more info, visit www. caravellehotel.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL Chit Chat at the Café offers a buffet lunch from Monday to Friday and a buffet dinner Saturday and Sunday.

Enjoy dishes such as pasta and dim sum for lunch and Southern Brazilian cuisine for dinner. Priced at VND360,000++/pax for lunch and VND590,000++/pax for dinner.

Celebrate Mother’s Day on May 13 with a Champagne Brunch or a Buffet Dinner. Mothers will receive a surprise gift at the brunch. The brunch is VND880,000 ++/pax and dinner is VND590,000++/pax.

Sip on a Caipirinha from 9pm till close at Flo Lounge, priced at VND150,000++/glass.

For more info, email dine@hcm. equatorial.com NEW WORLD HOTEL Enjoy a delicious Mother’s Day set menu or buffet on May 12 or 13. The brunch buffet and lunch set menu features fresh seafood, prime cut meats, sushi and Chinese specialities. Each mother will receive a tulip and cupcake gift or a calligraphy scroll.

On May 12 and 13 master chef Ho Wing Sang will welcome his guests at Dynasty with a seven-course set lunch menu including delicacies such as chilled tiger prawns with jelly fish and ginger sauce, abalone and dried

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seafood soup, crispy pigeon and more. Priced at VND700,000/pax.

Parkview invites guests to feast on the brunch buffet on May 13.

Priced at VND890,000 per person.

The international buffet is served with a free flow of sparkling wine, house wine, draft beer, soft drinks, coffee and tea.

For more info, visit www.saigon. newworldhotels.com NIKKO HOTEL Enjoy your lunch break at Ming Court with a set lunch menu. Enjoy Chinese specialities and a free mocktail for VND250,000.

Sample over 50 dishes at Ming Court's All You Can Eat Dim Sum on Saturdays and Sundays. Priced at VND300,000/pax.

On May 13 at La Brasserie offers a family buffet dinner with special cake and flowers for all mothers and features a wide selection of fresh seafood such as lobster, oyster, scampi, crab, garoupa fish, calamari, smoked tuna, green mussels, and more. Discount vouchers on food & beverage and spa treatment will be offered as a gift to all mothers. The buffet is priced at VND720,000/pax.

For more info, visit www. hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn PARK HYATT On May 13 celebrate a lavish dining spread alongside a feast of gourmet dishes with pastry chef Bertrand’s creations like Chocolate Mille-Feuille and a bouquet of flowers and a 20 percent spa discount voucher for mom. Priced at VND1,100,000 with free-flow Prosecco or VND1,700,000 with free-flow champagne.

Opera has a new set lunch format. Il Pranzo provides diners with 2-course or 3-course options to taste authentic interpretations of Italian flavours. Priced at VND330,000 per person for twocourses and VND430,000 per person for three-courses.

Buffalo Mozzarella will have a homecoming in Opera for the month of May. The ambrosial white balls will be prepared four different ways using imported and local products.

For more info, visit www.saigon. park.hyatt.com RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL Share a hot pot with friends this month at Kabin with freshly caught

See more at wordhcmc.com seafood, delectable broths and a cosy place to get together.

Available on Thursdays and priced at VND616,000++/pax.

Feast on a fabulous array of seafood from fresh oysters to mussels, Vietnamese snails, tiger prawns, deep sea fish and lobsters at Riverside Café’s Seafood Extravaganza. Priced at VND640,000++/pax (food only) or VND840,000++/pax (including free flow of red or white wine, beer and soft drinks).

All You Can Eat Dim Sum lunch and All You Can Eat dinner at Kabin. Brunch on Sundays is priced at VND540,000++/pax, lunch is VND450,000++ every day and dinner is VND540,000++.

For more info, visit www.marriott. com SHERATON Celebrate Mother’s Day with a champagne brunch at Saigon Café.

Dishes include oven roasted beef prime rib with Yorkshire puddings, chicken shawama, and more; priced at VND1,200,000++/pax.

Come to Saigon Café on Sundays to celebrate the Moët & Chandon and Chocolate festival. Brunch is available on May 6, 20 and 27, priced at VND960,000++/pax.

Celebrate your birthday at Signature. Book a table of eight or more to receive a gift of a homemade birthday cake or a bottle of Moet & Chandon champagne.

For more info, visit www. starwoodhotels.com/sheraton SAI GON MOI — THE SEA FISH RESTAURANT For its first anniversary, the restaurant is offering a voucher for Black Kingfish Hot Pot valued at VND350,000. To receive the voucher, email your name and address to mailsaigonmoi@gmail. com. Last date to receive your info is May 30 Sai Gon Moi — The Sea Fish Restaurant is located at 272 Nguyen Văn Linh, Q7 VINO Kick-start the weekend with Peroni Fridays. Priced at VND50,000 between 4pm & 7pm, this is the perfect beginning to your weekend.

Follow up with a tapas dinner and a great bottle of wine.

Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

YAMANEKO JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

MID TO TOP INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation.

Here it is faultless.

SUSHI DINING AOI SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039 www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan.

Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious.

RESTAURANTS – SOUTHEAST ASIAN

BUDGET CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

MID-RANGE BAAN THAI PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

MONSOON RESTAURANT & BAR SAIGON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

NATHALIE'S PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

MID-TO-TOP KOH THAI RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that

merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

VICKI’S TEPPANYAKI & BBQ

A Taste of Authenticity

42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232 www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person.

RESTAURANTS – VIETNAMESE BUDGET BANH XEO 46A BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1. Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills.

The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare

GOLDEN ELEPHANT CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

JASMINE THAI PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candlelit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

+

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

out & about is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak.

Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000.

Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available.

BO NE LE HONG STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 TEL: 3925 0935 www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000.

Has an English menu.

NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

PAPAYA RESTAURANT PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

PHAP HOA VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid

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out & about Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

PHO HOA PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3 Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

PHO 99 PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

QUAN HO GUOM HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deep-fried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

SAIGON VEGAN VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

TIN NGHIA VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of non-faux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

VIET CHAY VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

MID-RANGE 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

BARBECUE GARDEN VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too.

A great place for groups and parties.

CUC GACH QUAN MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh and his French-Vietnamese wife, the cuisine here is good, too, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients together with a selection of more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asianstyle, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinh-branded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden

at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

LAU XE LUA PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt.

Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare!

NHA HANG NGON STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

MID TO TOP BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) STEAKHOUSE 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 8023 www.lostartsaigon.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm If décor could have a voice of its own, here it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served up with a range of sauces.

For additional vegetables and sides, order separately.

CAFÉ IF 38 Dang Dung, Q1 Tel: 3846 9853 6am to 10pm Located in the grounds of a beautifully restored Indochina-French colonial villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking and offers a concise array of MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch and dinner mains come with a choice of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry.

Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese,

Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

NAM PHAN PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm.

Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams mixed in with the Imperial architecture of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta Army-style columns. All helps to create the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the various regions of Vietnam, all served up with a contemporary and welcome twist.

Good wine list.

XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE MODERN VIETNAMESE First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant whose unique décor has influenced the design of so many other eateries in town, five years of operation has seen Xu evolve into a venue at the forefront of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian concept of shared-plate dining, the fare here ranges from the likes of banh cuon thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a modern twist.

TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

TIB HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit

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BIEN XANH NANG VANG HA OKIO LAST WEEK:

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ARTS CLASSES 120 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 120 GALLERIES 120 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 121 PERFORMING ARTS 124 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 125

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BICH PHUONG ft TRAN TUNG ANH LAST WEEK:

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189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780, www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

REAL LOVE KIM ft JUSTA LAST WEEK:

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NGUYEN MINH HANG LAST WEEK:

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire.

All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

VIN’S SPACE

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4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

LOI TAM BIET HOANG BACH LAST WEEK:

www.BDPworkshops.com 090 2208 813 Photographer Peter Stuckings (Lonely Planet Images, Insight Guides) runs a monthly intensive class on how to get the best out of your digital camera, as well as what to do on your computer when you bring the photos home. Workshops are run over a weekend, and involve classroom time in District 1 as well as shooting at locations around town. Cost is $195/person, with discounts for early and multiple bookings.

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43 Dong Khoi , Q1, Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English,

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

COLUMNS VIETNAM TOP 10 110 FOR THE RECORD 121 ROAD RULES 122 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 124 IN THE FRAME 125 French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

FRENCH BOOKSHOP NAM PHONG 94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallic-run bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second–hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC) 2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam.

Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

SAHABOOK 175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1. Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTER 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer

reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY 31C Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Founded originally in 2000 by Viet Kieu Quynh Pham and partner Robert Cianchi as an online resource on the Vietnamese art scene. Initially providing nurture and promotion for the more abstract contemporary works of Vietnamese painters considered too self indulgent for normal exhibition, the gallery now follows a more international programme and helps to advance the works of a select group of locally based contemporary artists. Runs regular exhibitions. Check their website for details.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON 324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

PARTICULAR GALLERY Kim Do Business Center, 3rd Floor 123 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 8330 www.particulargallery.com 10am to 7pm Mon to Saturday Founded in 1999 with the objective of

promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-andcoming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

for the record

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY 53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

ZEROSTATION 288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

FEARS & LOVERS AS FAR AS CREATIVE PEOPLE go, Dan Nguyen’s a busy man.

It wasn’t so long ago that we covered his visual art back in our Oct. 2011 issue; this month he comes to our attention again with the release of his new album Fears & Lovers — a collection of tracks that has stemmed directly from his work on tour as a DJ. If you’ve ever heard Dan Nguyen perform as DMN SLYR, you’ll already know that this is music to chew on. Nguyen is a self-confessed “shaper of sounds”, and Fears & Lovers is, perhaps more than anything else, a visual artwork in musical space. With contrasting samples, vocals, and beats that have been placed together in genuinely unexpected combinations, Nguyen willfully constructs patterns out of a music that he intuitively sees, and releases these discoveries in dreamlike episodes that seem to belong to a larger backdrop of an unusually creative mentality. There’s an element of force, sure — Nguyen marries seemingly incompatible noises almost improperly — but just as physical art has the power to inspire and delightfully surprise its audience with unexpected conceptual associations, Fears & Lovers generates a remarkably comfortable listening space despite its experimentation and trickery.

GET SWITCHED ON Sudden changes of direction — something of a signature for

those familiar with Nguyen’s earlier work — take the listener not only to different levels of the experience, but occasionally to entirely different musical genres.

That Nguyen manages this without stepping off a straight creative path is what makes this album a consistent journey. There may be points of interest along the way where a casual tourist may want to stay for a while, taking in the scenery — but Nguyen is too impatient for such passengers, ever eager to whisk them into the following moment lest they fall asleep on the bus. Your driver isn’t interested in seducing your senses or lifting you into alternate states: while Fears and Lovers may seem at first meditative, it will never take you there, because it appeals too much to conscious appreciation.

Step into DMN SLYR’s weird world at demonslayer.bandcamp. com — pay what you think is fair, and leave your mind switched on — Fears & Lovers plugs itself in right there. — Michael Arnold

BAR BUI

road

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3. Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands.

Rules Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

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9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

CACOPHONY 57H Tu Xuong, Q3. Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture.

The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

HI PAT, CAN I IMPORT MY OWN BIKE, A USED ONE FROM FRANCE TO VIETNAM AND GET IT REGISTERED? VAT OBVIOUSLY HAS TO BE PAID BUT DOES VIETNAM ALLOW USED MOTORBIKES TO BE IMPORTED WHEN THE PROOF OF OWNERSHIP BEFORE MOVING TO VIETNAM IS AVAILABLE IN THE FORM OF A REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE? After looking into this one for some updated info, here’s a simple answer —no, it’s not possible to permanently import a privatelyowned secondhand bike into Vietnam from overseas and to get it legally registered. New bikes, yes, although very difficult and expensive. Secondhand bikes, no.

HI PAT, I READ WITH INTEREST THE COMMENTS YOU GAVE ON MOTORBIKE OWNERSHIP IN WORD, MARCH 2012.

I AM INFORMED THAT UPON REGISTERING A MOTORBIKE THERE IS A COMPULSORY INSURANCE THAT NEEDS TO BE PAID. WOULD THIS BE A ONE-OFF OR IS IT ANNUALLY RENEWABLE? WOULD THIS INSURANCE COVER THIRD PARTY ACCIDENTS AS

122 | Word May 2012

WELL AS STOLEN BIKES? IF SOMEONE WRITES OFF A BIKE IN AN ACCIDENT OR THE BIKE GETS STOLEN, CAN THIS PERSON THEN CLAIM FROM THE INSURANCE OR IS INSURANCE AN ALL-OPTIONAL COMPONENT? AND AS LONG AS IT IS REGISTERED, CAN ANY PERSON CAN DRIVE IT? You can purchase a basic 12-month motorcycle insurance policy from most petrol stations and post offices etc. for the pricey sum of about VND85,000. This is a 12-month cover and must be renewed every year. You can purchase this even if the bike is not in your name and you simply need to show the ownership paper (ca vet xe) at the time of purchase. A photocopy of the card is also acceptable to take out the insurance cover. This is what it actually covers: 1) CIVIL LIABILITY INSURANCE OF THE OWNER This gives you the following insurance rights: — For the driver: Basic cover is VND50 million, although people can be paid a little bit more depending on each individual accident claim.

— For the bike: based on how the bike is damaged, driver's mistakes and involvement in the accident.

2) INSURANCE SUBJECTS This covers the following: — The driver: does not have to be the owner of the bike. As long as they have permission to drive by the registered owner then the driver is covered.

— The passenger — The third party — The bike itself The driver must have a valid Vietnamese driving licence; no payout will be made if they don't have a legal valid driving licence. IDPs (International Drivers Permits) and international licences are not acceptable. People will be paid based on the insurance company’s pay out sheet.

As far as theft cover goes this is not available in Vietnam as far as I’m aware. Although I have heard that one international insurance company based in Vietnam is looking into starting a policy shortly.

To contact Pat, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com. Pat is the owner of Saigon Scooter Centre.

CARMEN 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

JARDIN D’AMOUR 8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LA HABANA 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

METALLIC BAR

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3. Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smoke-free atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music venues.

Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

NAPOLY BAR 7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight.

NIGHTSPOT 23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of acclaimed US-Canadian band Liquid.

Reservations are essential.

PACHARAN

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and exotic Cuban salsa music.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own.

Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

SAIGON SAIGON BAR 9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1. Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it

decks, drums & rock n' roll A catwalk-strutting cover girl by day, Katya Sulimenko transforms into DJ Kisska come nightfall. John Thornton speaks to the sassy Russian vinyl vixen. Photo provided by AnyArena HOW AND WHY DID YOU BECOME A DJ? It all started with modelling when I was 14. After gracing a number of magazines and covers within Asia and Russia I realised my next biggest passion was music. Why DJing?

Because of the incredible atmosphere a DJ creates and the near Godlike feeling they can momentarily experience in front of a crowd.

WHAT DO YOU PLAY? It depends on the venue and the crowd but generally electro, nu-disco and soulful house, though also some disco, funky, progressive, fidget, club and even more pop based stuff. I love to drop remixes of tracks by the likes of Calvin Harris, Wolfgang Gartner, Hoxton Whores, Chromeo, Chuckie, Ben Watt and Miguel Puente.

WHO’S YOUR MUSICAL HERO? Michael Jackson — an amazing artist, super talented in all aspects. I play remixes of his songs often. I believe he staged his own death because he was a master of disguise.

WHERE DID YOUR DJ MONIKER COME FROM? I was drinking with my boyfriend and some friends after an event and the name Kisska came up accidently. I didn’t have a proper DJ name at the time and I really liked the way it sounded and looked. In Russian it means ‘kitten’ and friends and family have called me that all my life anyway so it’s like a second name to me.

WHY IS THERE SUCH A LACK OF FEMALE DJS HERE? The market is still growing and in three to five years there’ll probably be more. However, this industry, especially in Asia, is still regarded as a boys club. My friends told me not to do it but that just motivated me even more.

I looked at DJing as some kind of forbidden fruit.

SO WHAT’S IT LIKE BEING A FEMALE IN SUCH A MALEDOMINATED PROFESSION? I have to work harder to get respect from people in this industry, but this is the best motivation for me. Some of my colleagues don’t take me seriously because I’m a model. They just think I stand around smiling.

HOW DO YOU BALANCE DJING WITH MODELLING? It can be hard DJing on a Thursday or Friday night and having to get up early the next morning for a photo shoot or client meeting, but I’m not complaining, I’m very happy being so busy. It’s just not always as easy as it may look to people on the outside.

DJ Kisska is currently a weekly resident at Centro (Thursdays), Xu (Fridays), Sofitel Hotel’s Boudoir Lounge (Saturdays) and Lush

up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SAX N’ ART JAZZ CLUB

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28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 8472 www.saxnart.com 5pm to 12am Unique renditions of classic jazz compositions by the likes of Miles Davies, John Coltrane and Charlie Parker can be heard from 9pm until midnight daily at this non-smoking establishment. Saxophonist Tran Manh Tuan and the Sax N’ Art house band regularly performs a unique blend of contemporary jazz and blues mixed with central highlands Vietnamese influences in this cosy, brick-walled bohemian boîte.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

+ 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793, www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

CINEBOX 1

212 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3, Tel: 3935 0610 240 Duong 3/2, Q10, Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA IN DIAMOND PLAZA

13th floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 www.lottecinemavn.com

LOTTE MART CINEMA

Level 3, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends.

THE FACTORY 102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 8102 8pm until late Designed as a European industrial processing plant (huge fans, bright yellow pipes, road signs and metal drums), The Factory is the second offering from the team behind Acoustic. In the footsteps of its predecessor, The Factory churns out live music, albeit in a much clubbier environment with some of the city’s top hip-hop DJs also performing every night from 9pm to 2am.

VASCO’S

74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends.

With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues.

Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

YOKO 22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon’s infamous wife inspired the title of this excellent watering hole. Refurbished and expanded at the start of 2011, the ever-popular Yoko plays host to some of Saigon’s best local bands, including funk-rockers 6789 every Wednesday, metallers Microwave every Saturday and the irrepressible chanteuse Ngoc Thy twice weekly. Proceedings tend to kick off around 9pm with a revolving door of local musicians performing nightly amongst the comfy surrounds and walls adorned with Vietnamese art and photos of John Lennon and Kurt Cobain.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

ICONS 101 AIRCONDITIONING

GALAXY CINEMA

116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 8533; 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688; 246 Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

WI-FI NON-SMOKING AREA

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

MEGASTAR CINEMA

7th Floor, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 6222 0388 www.megastarmedia.net

PARAGON CINEMA

Level 5, Saigon Paragon Building, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastarmedia.net

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DELIVERY

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HAPPY HOUR LIVE MUSIC DJ

perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national

and European Anthems.

SAIGON PLAYERS www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

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PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV 339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

FROM SAPA TO STUDIO MALAYSIAN-BORN PAINTER Shyevin S’ng has been in Vietnam for seven years now. She earned a degree in Multimedia Design but drawing and painting has always been a part of her life. She more or less taught herself how to paint and augmented what she knew by finishing three courses in painting at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London.

Shyevin is an Impressionist artist and produces works in oil and mix medium with acrylic. Her works have strong, vivid colours reminiscent of the art masters she looks up to like Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin and Claude Monet.

She continues to draw inspiration from contemporary artists including Malaysian impressionist Eston Tan and Polish expressionist Ewa Gargulinska.

Her works contain purposely thick oil strokes that mostly feature portraits of children and landscapes. This style is most noticeable in her most recent painting, Sapa. As the title suggests, Sapa is a product of her visit to the place last year. “It made a lot of impressions on me and provided much inspiration,” Shyevin relates.

Since 2009, Shyevin has been actively participating in solo and group exhibitions in Ho Chi Minh City as well as charity art auctions. She has contributed her works to St Andrew’s Charity, the Consular Club and Operation

Smile. Most recently, she joined the group exhibition for Mekong Art and the exhibition, Celebrating Women’s Day, — both with the Fine Art Association of Ho Chi Minh City. She hopes to follow her 2011 solo exhibition, Le Petit Journal at Ben Thanh Art and Frame Gallery, with another this year.

SPACE ART Because of her love for the arts, Shyevin decided to set up VinSpace in District 2 in February 2011. She envisioned the place as an art studio where she could meet different people from different cultures to exchange knowledge on various art forms.

Since then, Vin-Space has been home to both foreign and local artists teaching children and adults the intricacies of oil painting, glass painting, mosaics, jewellery-making, photography and more. With so much artwork produced by the teachers and students, the space has also hosted art exhibits and music-art collaborations.

Shyevin hopes to expand Vin-Space to other countries as well as to continue making contributions to charity through her art. However, her main goal this year is to open Vin Gallery in June and to hold an exhibition outside Vietnam. — Lyra Dacio To learn more about Vin-Space, visit www.vin-space.com

May 2012 Word | 125

LEISURE & WELLNESS

BAND & DJ LISTINGS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE brettnewski@yespleasemedia.com Alternative Medicine is a party band with setlists packed with groovy, danceable super hits to amp up an event. Not too loud, but also far from wimpy. Female and male harmony vocals with a percussionist with the fastest hands in the land. Rock/indie pop/soul.

BAD NEIGHBOUR LATIN ROCK BAND Contact Claudio Duek on Facebook.

Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members.

BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes.

CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND TEL: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events.

DEPSKILLZ www.depskillz.com A Saigon-based collective of bands, musicians, DJs and MCs who play weekly gigs at some of the best venues around town. Also available for corporate events, mix & mingles, birthday bashes, bon soirees, weddings, funerals & bar mitzvahs. No karaoke or K-Pop. Call Pedro on 0943 200 495.

DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent.

DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam.

126 | The Word March 2012

DJ SEIP Tel: 0934014091 www.djseip.com German DJ and Turntablist, DJ Seip, plays the hottest hip-hop, rn’b, dance and house tracks and can be seen playing at most of the prominent Saigon venues.

DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency.

EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs. GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply.

JENNY SANTIAGO & THE JOYRIDERS www.jennysantiagoonline.blogspot.com Fronted by Filipino singer Jenny Santiago, former resident-singer at Caravelle Hotel and collaborator with Bad Neighbour, The Gigatones, The Curtis King Band and Acoustic Band. The band can be found playing at venues around the city.

JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

SNAKEBITE — MUSIC WITH VENOM! Tel: 0909 169 033 (Andy) andy@andysgraphics.com Looking for music with soul? Then call Snakebite the next time you’re planning a wedding, event or private party. Snakebite play music that is suitable for all ages and can even help with invitations.

LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 126 BASKETBALL 126 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 126 COOKING CLASSES 126 CRICKET 127 DANCING 128 FITNESS 128 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 128 GOLF 128 LEISURE - GENERAL 128 SPORTS CLASSES 130 TENNIS 130

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 130 YOGA & MEDITATION 130 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 130 COSMETIC SURGERY 131 DENTAL 131 HAIRDRESSERS 132 MEDICAL 132 PHARMACIES 134 SALONS 134 SPAS 134

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area.

Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG 5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun.

Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB 8 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

leisure & wellness every Sunday afternoon from 1.30-5pm.

Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes.

Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.

The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE 362/8 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh Tel: 351 22 764 www.vietnamcookery.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions.

The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION) Manish Sogani Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS:

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington. Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill. Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta. Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri. Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure. Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit. Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms.

Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi.

Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets

May 2012 Word | 127

leisure & wellness DANCING DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340, www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1).

It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”.

Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS AIS SPORTS CENTRE Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the–art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD Tel: 0947 771326, www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the Boathouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Evening sessions start at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays at Riverside. Contact Cyril for more information

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR Tel: 0983 789 318, jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes,

128 | Word May 2012

leisure & wellness weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports.

Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning.

Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors.

Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

PUSH CLIMBING

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

67/1 Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung Tel: 01264 722 134 www.pushclimbing.com Push Climbing is Ho Chi Minh City’s and Vietnam’s first dedicated bouldering climbing gym and pro shop. Located in District 7, the gym is open seven days a week and there are facilities for storing bicycles and gear. Drinks and snacks are also available, as well as a comfy area for people to relax after tackling the various routes.

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

STAR FITNESS GYM

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop– in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym.

Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym.

Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie–calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

PAUL SIMOS

THE LANDMARK CLUB

NTFQ2

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO. New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi,

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia.

Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

SAIGON RAIDERS jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches.

Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

RAINBOW DIVERS 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League

invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon.

Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000.

Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT 77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9. Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches.

Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long– established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

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leisure & wellness SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA 25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter.

Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II 796 Su Van Hanh, Q10, Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 , Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club.

You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency.

VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 3836 4344 vnccentre@gmail.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training and Translation provides Vietnamese language training by experienced and qualified teachers and certifies translation from experts for all kinds of materials and documents, from a page to a book.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

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leisure & wellness MY YOGA EXERCISE

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 0128 630 5982 www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation.

Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2. Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA Tel: 090 835 2265, www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance.

Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available.

Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym.

Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non– member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretary-general of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467, www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy) www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes.

A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

cal therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam practicing out of American Chiropractic Clinic.

Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation. Rehabilitation may include combination of hands on manual therapy, specific exercise prescription and other modalities.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Tel: 3514 0757 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Major medical centre that also offers acupuncture and traditional medicine services. The international doctors are highly qualified in their respective disciplines and speak English, Italian and French.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

YOGA SANTI

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com

Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes.

All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

WELLNESS

Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

DR CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT American Chiropractic Clinic, 8 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 3930 6667 chantel@vietnamchiropractic.com American-educated and licensed physi-

THETA HEALING

channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailormade programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking.

Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC 290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound–based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping.

The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7. Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems

such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss regrowth treatments.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3392 1080 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses state-of-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

EUROPEAN DENTAL CLINIC 17-17A Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Dentists from Japan and France providing total dental care. Open Mondays from 8.00am to 8.00pm and Saturdays from 8.00am to 5.00pm. Emergency hotline: 0909 551 916 / 0916 352 940.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 . Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 (24-Hour) www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture

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leisure & wellness SAKURA DENTAL CLINIC 90 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3829 8453 96 Ha Huy Tap, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5415 6868 www.sakuradental.com.vn An international-standard private dental healthcare group established in the 1990s and led by a Vietnamese senior dentist graduated from Tokyo Medical & Dental University (Japan). Comprised of a team of local and foreign dental specialists, providing total dental care services from dental check-ups to specialist works like whitening, braces, implants, and sleep apnea mouth guards.

with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com

A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic

ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George� brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

ART HAIR 37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp– looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that

is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2.

Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP 23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3911 0915 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

THE SALON 21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS

CARE 1

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy (Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment.

Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10, Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL 135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC 8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1, Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24– hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conve-

niently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1. Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non–profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

HO CHI MINH CITY

VIETNAM

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescription and over the counter medication.

THE STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

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style VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescriptiononly. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN 40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE 64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218, www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY 23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well– designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA 61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene

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atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

QING SPA 110 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA TROPIC 79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1. Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

THANH SANCTUARY Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999, www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

STYLE

LISTINGS

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 134 CLOTHING STORES 135 LINGERIE & SWIMSUITS 137 SPORTSWEAR 138 TAILORS 138 INTERIORS ART 138 CRAFT 138 FURNITURE & HOMEWARES 138 KITCHEN & BATHROOM 139 LIGHTING 139

FASHION ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 2K BAG SHOP 362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa, Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

ACCESSORIZE B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

BIRKENSTOCK B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its

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XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234, www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

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YKC SPA

JEWELLERY

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3. Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors.

Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

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style visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 140 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 140 MOBILE PHONES 140 GROCERIES BAKERIES 140 CATERING 141 GROCERIES 141 LIQUOR & WINE 141

wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON 1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow.

Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH 18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and well-organised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

DR. MARTENS 127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6291 8162 www.galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including

rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

JEMMA 174 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

MAI O MAI 67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million.

The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI 146AB Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS 115 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

TDC SWISS WATCHES 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Le-

mans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million.

Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TIC TAC WATCHES 72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY 9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door.

Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters.

Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE 180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000.

Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

MID-RANGE BAM SKATESHOP 174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run

YB DESIGNS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2. Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings.

Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite.

Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

CLOTHING STORES BUDGET MARATHON 147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

PAPAYA 171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A

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style little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

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L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493, www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop.

Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts.

Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as

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First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

Mai’s

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ing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

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47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city.

Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

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85-87 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye.

Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eye-catching box-shaped shelves.

Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

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89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

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89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures.

43 Thao Dien, Q1 Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

D’Blanc

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It's Happened To Be A Closet

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts.

Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products.

Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt.

Also stocks socks and belts.

Er-Couture

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85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs.

The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags.

Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

MID TO TOP Bossini

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Geisha & Geisha’s Coffee and Tea House

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to its large white-painted Renaissance-style columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

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Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

52 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

Ninomaxx

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45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993. www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-towear clothing for work or play FORMAL WEAR CASUAL SHOES WEAR CASUAL FORMAL WEAR BAGS WEAR FORMAL JEWELLERY SHOES WEAR

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132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories.

Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

Mango

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40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300, www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

Mr & Mrs Smith

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43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 , Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s cloth-

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1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1 Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

Thuy Nga Design

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19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A longsleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories.

Umbrella

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TOP-END Chloe

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155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

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35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick

Just Cavalli

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M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

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Marc Jacobs

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155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in the middle of the store containing other accessories.

Versace

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Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including underwear, sleepwear and sportswear.

Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

La Ha

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139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

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M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish.

The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

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211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from onepiece bikinis through to two-pieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns.

Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

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137 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops.

Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000.

Has European-sized t-shirts.

Song

walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices are acceptable for tailor-made clothing, with a party dress starting from VND2.7 million. A blouse starts from VND990,000 and shoes, bags and belts are available. Also offers a small selection of imported funky jewellery ranging from VND1 million a piece.

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127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available.

Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

Triumph

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Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras

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40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

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LOLITA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis -

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are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis.

to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

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94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

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ART APRICOT GALLERY 50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars.

Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

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163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG 270 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes.

They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR 39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles.

Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where

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244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run

by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y 257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers.

Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI 213C Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists.

Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are

displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists.

Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG 234 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products.

An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the BGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house.

Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY 83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA 209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME 20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture.

All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs.

Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by wellknown brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware.

Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT 68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks.

Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS 4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI 53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets.

There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

CLIC CLAC SOFA 327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC 11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-toorder furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

GAYA 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1. Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally.

You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

HAFELE SHOWROOM 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING 59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors.

Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials.

From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs.

Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE 3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1 It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand.

Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO 51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

LIGHT HOUSE 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big

UNITY 12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com

Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

FASHION OUTLET

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN 152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

Latest fashion from all kind of international brands Factory outlet prices (ranging from 5 to 35$/piece) Only limited numbers available Weekly new arrivals

43 Ton That Thiep, D1 08 38218019

May 2012 Word | 139

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store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials.

Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE 98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

ELECTRONICS CAMERAS CAMERA STREET Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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CONG DANH

HOAN LONG

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small.

The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON 85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000.

Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

PHAM THE 11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1, Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony.

They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD 81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER 236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million.

Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

LONG BINH COMPUTER 50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers.

Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU 125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM 42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN 428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO. 227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN 352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell,

Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE 382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG 182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292. www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications.

The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices.

Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A 328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES BAKERIES CAKEWALK 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087. www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS 54 Truong Dinh, Q1. Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS 33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1. Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and

ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh. Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE 216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches.

Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN 64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day.

You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson.

In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

GIA THANH

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

NGUYEN KIM

63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

THIEN HOA

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate.

No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY 153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 or 0918 445311 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS 180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY info@saigoncateringco.com Tel: 0913 981128 (Ms Huong – Vietnamese) / 01214 401853 (Ms Ana – English) With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals.

Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

VOELKER 39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu. Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128, info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

GASTRO’HOME

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

MEALS ON HEELS Tel:0903 109 431 info@mealsonheels.asia Meals On Heels is a weekly catering service providing healthy home cooked meals. A new menu is released every Monday, which includes vegetarian options and kids portions. Meals are delivered fresh (not hot/not frozen) and can be reheated or frozen.

Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen.net. vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS 41 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1. Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer.

Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer.

Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR 32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware.

Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA 60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe), Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1. Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

QUAN BUI

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

ANNAM GOURMET SHOP

Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or workplace.

Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice,

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109, www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

VEGGY’S 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE

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generation v BACCHUS CORNER 158D Pasteur, Q1, www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on– site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC 74E Hai Ba Trung,Q 1 , Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE 6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1, Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU 15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD 2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing

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list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE 178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town.

In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

GENERATION V

LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 142 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 142 CLASSES & SPORTS 142 CLOTHING 143

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING EDUCATION 144 ENTERTAIMENT 145 KIDS' PARTIES 146 MEDICAL 146

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA 41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

VINIFERA 15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

BABY EQUIPMENT BABY 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE 270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI 1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY 230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 ,Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA 40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

generation v and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

PHUONG NAM 1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY 10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition), Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity.

Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

KINDERMUSIK Tel: 0907 099 480, goetz@LNTgoetz.com The world’s premier music & movement program for children from birth to 7– years–old taught by Ms Lauralynn, B.A. & M.M.Ed.. The courses nurture every facet of a child’s development – social, physical, cognitive, emotional and English language skills – through music & movement.

LIFETIME SPORTS

Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_music77@hotmail.com).

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB 628A An Binh, Q2, Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

PIANO CLASSES Tel: 0122 5636 682, morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages.

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

SAIGON MOVEMENT

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at

Tel: 0987 027722, saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An

DANCENTER

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins.

Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com, www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB 42 Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

STAGEMAGIC Tel: 0903 145087, www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING 226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM 4F-04 (4th Floor), Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5413 7574 contactus@belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to mums and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and much more. Brands available include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends, and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI 17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and

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generation v unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

THANH THUY 93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL 227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

generation v and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages.

Scholarships available.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn, www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Early Childhood - Primary Campus - 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 6960 Middle/Senior Campus – East -West Hwy | Q2 Tel: 3822 4992, www.aisvietnam.com A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle

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students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh, Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a student-centered learning environment.

Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education company that offers a range of courses for teachers,

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu, Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

NOAH’S CLUB 3 Duong So 4, Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel/Fax: 3744 4709 noahandmum@yahoo.com.vn Children’s club for toddlers and children from 18 months to 6 years old offering daycare, a toddlers’s club in the morning, an afterschool club in the afternoon for 3 to 6 year olds and art and swimming classes.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC Tel: 0862819679 info@paa.com.vn, www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers.

ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222, www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2, Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 3519 2223, Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the develop-

ment and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS) 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 3266 / 3910 0168 www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 16 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses of all levels at high quality with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at the school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA 35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

WATER PUPPET THEATRE History Museum, 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3823 4582 Much more cultured than malls and a sure–fire winner with children, is the enchanting Water Puppet Theatre, devoted to this traditional art which the Vietnamese called mua roi nuoc.

X–ROCK CLIMBING 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com.

X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

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generation v Saigon Kids Where children grow with love and care.

of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2 196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN 100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

“Materials gather history as children play with them”

18 months – 6 years old.

Part-time and full-time attendance plans.

Enrolment throughout the year.

Saigon Kids Educational Childcare Centre 104A Tran Quoc Toan Street, D.3 Tel: (08) 39325579 | www.saigonkidscentre.com

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46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do.

Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the childcare speciality at this well– equipped medical care centre. Also has

obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

Hanoi

THE DREAMWEAVER / HOME IS WHERE THE HEARTH IS PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT

STARLIGHT DENTAL

3 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

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THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Dreamweaver Words by Debbie Clare. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

A

sheet of red parchment paper is pegged onto the makeshift washing line above us, bobbing and jolting in the breeze. On this crossroad at the end of Dang Thai Mai, snails and shrimps are displayed like shop-front jewels, waiting to find their way into the mouths of passersby, many of whom are making the short pilgrimage to Phu Tay Ho (Tay Ho Temple) beyond. Lining one side of the street, a row of ramshackle awnings have become shelters to alfresco offices; each with a small desk, on which a pen, a paintbrush and a pot of ink await instruction.

With his sleeves rolled up to his elbows, his glasses halfway down his nose, Giang Phi Tuan is applying the final brush strokes of jet-black water-based ink to a large sheet of paper.

“In the past, this job was more simple,” he says, his hand steady, his eyes unblinking and his face a picture of concentration. “People usually wished for a house or for more land, but now the prayers are more complicated, our lives our more complicated, people want more.”

Tuan has worked as a viet so for the last seven years; a job which could just as easily be titled artist, translator or calligrapher.

Being a viet so requires him to transcribe the worldly needs and wants of his customers into chu nom — the first official written Vietnamese language. Hailing from a family of traditional medicine doctors, fortune tellers and teachers, he learned the craft from a young age. “It’s not something you can learn at school,” he says. “It has always been in my family so the knowledge was passed down to me.”

To begin composing the prayer, Tuan must first choose the correct template.

“I have 300 templates containing 300 different prayers, every one is different; some are prayers for wealth, some for love, some for health. Many people come to me asking

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for a prayer that can bring them a son, other people want help selling their land.”

The paper templates are stacked in the corner of Tuan’s red satin table-clothed desk.

In green, yellow and red, they already bear the complex chu nom print, and are almost waving our attention as the wind tickles through them. He also has a stack of folders which are packed with thousands of people’s names, translated into chu nom.

For the next stage of composition, Tuan collects his customer’s basic personal information; name, year of birth, astrological age, from where he or she hails, and the customer’s home address.

“The home address is really important,” he explains. “The Gods have to be able to find the correct house if they’re going to process your wish correctly.”

Once the collecting of background information is complete, Tuan folds the prayer and inserts it into a long, readymade envelope. In something reminiscent of post office boxes marked ‘domestic’ or ‘international’, Tuan directs the customer towards the relevant part of the temple, dependent on the theme of their prayer, to ensure that the contents of the envelopes reach their intended recipient. The envelope is then placed in the temple with some fruit or a prepared gift, and just before the incense burns out, the paper prayer is lit before dissolving into nothingness.

Special Delivery Before setting up shop on Dang Thai Mai, Tuan worked outside the Perfume Pagoda, located in the Huong Tich mountains. He recalls a particularly memorable prayer request from a woman who found out her husband was cheating on her.

“She wanted me to write a prayer that would cause the mistress to be in a bad accident,” he recalls, “but I told her it wasn’t the way, and that we shouldn’t bring bad

feeling into the temple. She didn’t agree with me so she just left.”

But in contrast to that, some requests have surprised Tuan enough to stay with him for years.

“A woman came to me and told me that she was owed a lot of money by a family in Hang Dao,” he says. “I thought she was going to ask for a prayer for the money to be returned to her, but instead she asked me for two wishes. The first was for wealth and peace for her own family, and the second was for wealth and peace for the debtor. It was a really humane way of trying to solve the problem. I’ll never forget that.”

On the road leading down to the temple, the shops almost exclusively stock gifts only intended for ancestors. Choco Pie, joss sticks, photocopied money and Oreos. It’s one of the most relaxed streets in the city; few cars pass by, most of the vendors are asleep, children play happily in the road. The stillness of this corner, and the sense of hush and calm, is something that reflects Tuan’s personality, and his approach to his work.

“This isn’t a job for a young person, young people should be active. This job is bettersuited to older people so you can be more still.”

The position requires Tuan to hear his customers’ innermost wishes, secrets and confessions, but in his soft, eloquent voice, he insists that confidentiality is assured; the information he collects and the prayers he compiles remain between him, the customer and the spirit world.

“The best thing about this job is the knowledge that I am helping others,” he smiles with humble satisfaction. “I know less and less people will want to do this job in the future; even now, children come here and they don’t know what it is I’m doing, but as long as people keep on praying, it’ll keep the trade going, and that’s all we can really hope for.”

TIME & SPACE

Home is Where the Hearth is Douglas Pyper meets residents and workers at Hanoi Locomotive Enterprise — a place where stepping out of bed and straight onto the tracks is a way of life. Photos by Dominic Blewett

150 | Word May 2012

"T

he people you work with are people you were just thrown together with. I mean, you don't know them, it wasn't your choice. And yet you spend more time with them than you do your friends or your family.” So said Tim in the popular UK TV show The Office. He probably wasn’t up for living in a collective society — where your work colleagues are your friends and family; you work together, play together and live together.

This used to be the norm in Vietnam as the authorities built housing schemes for the workers in specific industries.

However, people’s occupations and positions became fluid once market reforms had been introduced. These days you are no longer allocated a role in society, you have to choose your own, and so work-based collectives have become a thing of the past.

One of the last such schemes to be made is on Kham Thien. As late as 1996, a good 10 years into the reforms first initiated in the 1980s, a housing scheme

for the workers at the Hanoi Locomotive Enterprise was built — this is the place where Vietnam’s trains go to be serviced.

44 of the workers were chosen to move into the building, so their place of work became where they lived, and their colleagues became their family.

Lifelong Service Nguyen Hai San was one of the workers lucky enough to be chosen to move in.

He’s been working at the plant since 1973.

At that time Vietnam had no diesel so steam trains were in use. The last of these trains to be decommissioned still sits in a small shed out the back of the Locomotive Enterprise, waiting to be taken away to the Hanoi Museum. Finally put out to pasture in 2000, the beautifully decrepit machine provided 80 or 90 years of service. A good 18 meters in length, 10 of these metres accommodate the front furnace — the back seven metres of this area store the coal, while a one-metre squared area of pipes, valves, levers and dials is where the driver sits. Its beautiful black paint with stylish

red and white wheels make this engine more striking than any other train in the yard, despite the thick layer of decay.

“It’s not hard to drive,” says Hai San. Then he reconsiders. “Well, it depends on the coal.” A whole lot of coal. These machines required 16 tons of the stuff just to get from Hanoi to Ninh Binh. Vietnam used to get its coal from China as they had no foreign currency to buy anything else, but strained ties in the late 1970s and 1980s forced their hand and they began buying higher grade coal from Australia — much to the pleasure of Hai San. “I loved my job,” proclaims San. “In one day I could eat three meals in three different provinces.”

The Hanoi Locomotive Enterprise is much like many other ageing industrial area in the capital. Built at the same time as Long Bien Bridge in 1901 by the French, the site has changed a lot since then, yet at the same time, the ghost of yesteryear is everywhere. Deputy Director Nguyen Hong Tien has been working here since 1973. He’s more than happy to turn on the

May 2012 Word | 151

Tiêng viêt MỘT MADRID KHÁC LẠ / THỰC KHÁCH BÍ ẨN HÌNH AÛNH: FERNANDO MADARIAGA / ICEX

“In the wheel manufacturing shed there is a smorgasbord of aging machinery which acts like a who’s who of Vietnamese foreign policy in the 20th century.

Chinese, German, French, American, Vietnamese, Russian and Czechoslovak technology hums away in the shed.”

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original railway turntable, a throwback from the steam era when trains couldn’t go in reverse for long. It’s never been replaced, only repaired, and still has the original 100-year-old wooden sleepers.

Friend and Foe The site still has two original French sheds in use, one to make and repair wheels, the other to repair engines and chassis.

In the wheel manufacturing shed there is a smorgasbord of old machinery which acts like a who’s who of Vietnamese international relations in the 20th century.

Chinese, German, French, American, Vietnamese, Russian and Czechoslovak technology hums away in the shed.

Sagging wires lead to bald light bulbs around which men cluster, punching holes in metal discs, cigarettes and spectacles hanging off their faces. One particularly old French piece, older than anyone who works at the plant, is reapplying friction to the wheel sets. Each two-ton set rotates slowly on the ageing machine — it grinds out fresh grooves, while thick black oil pours gorily over the formerly red paint.

Despite the no smoking signs, Tien pats down passing workers for spare tabs. He, too, lives in the housing scheme and seems to be on cheery terms with everyone. He

shows us round the on-site ping pong club, the tennis courts, the badminton and volleyball courts. The complex seems to be so completely self-sufficient that it’s a wonder anyone ever leaves. Living here, working here, playing here, exercising here, eating here — you’d expect the workers to be stir crazy. Not Tien.

“It’s great living here,” he says, “I never have to waste money on petrol. I can go out after work easily — the only thing is it’s easy for the wife to keep tabs on me.”

As I press for some negatives to the situation, both Tien and Hai San don’t even seem to grasp what I might be on about, they look at each other a bit confused. “I like living here,” Hai San says simply. And when you think about it, why wouldn’t they? It’s clean, friendly, easy to get to work, safe, located in the centre of the city and free.

While leaving, visitors pass by a monument to the site’s ‘heroic workers’ in the form of a wheel set, well maintained under a shady banyan tree. Honoured for continuing to work under the threat of bombing during the war, the monument was commissioned and built by the workers themselves. Something which shows a strength of community which Tim from The Office might not understand.

DU LICH

Giống như những thành phố lớn khác, Madrid cũng dần tiết lộ những bí mật của nó và cây viết về du lịch đang sống ở Madrid, Will Peach, đã nỗ lực tìm hiểu về thành phố này ngûúäng nhûäng kiïën truác löång lêîy bõ quïn laäng cuãa Madrid. Tiïëp tuåc ài xuöëng khu vûåc cuöëi, toâa nhaâ Plaza de Espa#a, vaâ baån seä thêëy àûúåc quang caãnh ûa thñch cuãa töi trong möåt thaânh phöë àûúåc nöíi tiïëng hún búãi thïë giúái bïn trong nhaâ (nhûäng quaán rûúåu vaâ quaán bar) hún laâ cuöåc söëng bïn ngoaâi.

HÌNH AÛNH: FÉLIX LORRIO / ICEX

Niềm Vui Trong Nhà

Du lõch àïën möåt núi vúái muåc àñch duy nhêët laâ tòm kiïëm "nhûäng núi chûa coá dêëu chên ngûúâi" thûúâng khöng bao giúâ laâ möåt yá tûúãng töët.

Nhûng khi núi êëy laâ möåt thuã àö nhöån nhõp cuãa Chêu Êu, laâm sao ngûúâi ta coá thïí tröng mong tòm thêëy möåt caái gò àoá múái meã tûâ bûúác chên cuãa nhûäng ngûúâi àaä ài trûúác? Ðoá laâ möåt cêu hoãi hay. Tröng mong vaâo viïåc kiïëm àûúåc nhûäng núi, duâ àaä àûúåc khaám phaá hay chûa, laâ möåt caái gò àoá khöng chó àïí hoåc hoãi vïì thaânh phöë naây thay vò cûá quanh quêín lang thang trïn nhûäng con àûúâng cuãa Madrid, maâ coân vïì cuöåc söëng noái chung. Chùæc chùæn àoá laâ möåt viïîn caãnh aãm àaåm, nhûng àöëi

Đ Ế N Đ Ó N H Ư T H Ế N ÀO ?

Chuyến bay hai chiều gián tiếp của hãng Qatar Air, Air France, Emirates Airlines hay Vietnam Airlines. Giá từ 12 triệu đồng đến 19 triệu đồng chưa thuế.

154 | Word May 2012

vúái nhûäng du khaách muöën söëng laânh maånh vaâ cû xûã húåp lyá úã thaânh phöë thuã àö Têy Ban Nha naây, noá coá thïí laâ caách töët nhêët hûúáng túái.

Mong àúåi hay khöng, maåch àêåp cuãa thaânh phöë naây vêîn coân laåi rêët nhiïìu nhûäng àiïím àaáng chuá yá trong chuyïën hûúáng dêîn du lõch khaác thûúâng naây. Vúái ly do haâng àêìu àoá, töi coá nïn buöng thaã vaâ bùæt àêìu chuyïën ài phuâ phiïëm vaâo nhûäng núi chûa ai khaám phaá úã nhûäng quaán bar löån xöån cuãa Madrid? Hay töët hún nûäa, hy voång möåt chuyïën ài daåo voâng quanh nhûäng baäi coã xanh úã cöng viïn Buen Retiro seä giuáp naãy sinh nhûäng yá tûúãng?

Cho duâ baån nhòn nhêån nhû thïë naâo, àaä àïën luác bùæt àêìu chuyïën ài. Vò vêåy, chuáng ta haäy laâm nhûäng àiïìu maâ nhûäng ngûúâi bònh thûúâng khaác laâm. Haäy àïí laåi àoá vaâ ài mua sùæm naâo.

Phía Cao Trên Bầu Trời Bêët cûá ngûúâi naâo quen thuöåc vúái Madrid vaâ nhûäng con àûúâng heãm chùçng chõt cuãa noá seä coá thïí chïë giïîu caác viïåc bùæt àêìu haânh trònh nhû thïë naây vúái möåt chuyïën ài thong thaã xuöëng Gran Via - möåt trong nhûäng quêån mua sùæm

nöíi tiïëng vaâ nhöån nhõp nhêët cuãa thaânh phöë.

Nhûng sûå thêåt laâ rêët ñt ngûúâi xem qua caác khaách saån, raåp chiïëu phim hay nhûäng cûãa haâng nhoã nhùæn trong quêån naây.

Do vêåy viïåc mua sùæm chó laâ möåt meåo àún giaãn húåp thúâi àïí quan saát xung quanh khu vûåc, laâm möåt cuöåc ài böå xuöëng Gran Via qua con àûúâng Calle de Alcala vaâ chûáng kiïën quan àiïím àêìu tiïn cuãa töi vïì viïåc tòm kiïëm yá nghôa cuãa viïåc "chûa ai ài qua" úã àêy. Thêåt vêåy, àïí thêëy àûúåc möåt vaâi àiïím cuãa möåt thaânh phöë maâ chó coá vaâi ba ngûúâi khaác thêëy, àöi khi baån chó cêìn ngûúác nhòn lïn.

Vaâ coá noá núi naâo töët hún cho viïåc ngûúác nhòn lïn ngoaâi bêìu trúâi? Laâ quï hûúng cuãa nhûäng toâa nhaâ mang tñnh biïíu tûúång vaâ àeåp nhêët cuãa thaânh phöë, hêìu hïët du khaách àïën Madrid thêåm chñ khöng bêån têm àïën nhûäng khöëi àaá àêìu thïë kyã 20 nhû toâa Edificio Metropolis vaâ Edificio Grassy to luâ luâ phña trïn.

Nhûng vúái nhûäng thaânh luäy trang trñ nghïå thuêåt nhû toâa nhaâ Capitol on Plaza del Callao, Gran Via laâ möåt núi lyá tûúãng àïí chiïm

Ngoaâi trúâi laâ núi baån coá veã tòm thêëy nhûäng khu vûåc àùåc biïåt cuãa Madrid. Vaâ mùåc duâ bõ lu múâ búãi Barcelona khi noái àïën têìm quan troång cuãa caác di tñch, thaânh phöë naây vêîn coá kha khaá lûúång du khaách. Tiïëp tuåc hûúáng vïì Gran Via (ngûâng ngang tiïåm saách to lúán úã söë 29 àûúâng Casa del Libro úã Gran Vña) qua con àûúâng Calle de Princessa vaâ àïën Arco de la Victoria, baån seä thêëy nhiïìu thûá hún. Ðûúåc xêy dûång vaâo nùm 1956, nhû laâ möåt tùång vêåt cho quên àöåi Quöëc Dên Ðaãng cuãa Franco – ngûúâi àaä khúãi nghôa giaânh chiïën thùæng trong cuöåc nöåi chiïën Têy Ban Nha, Arco cao 39m àûúåc xem nhû laâ möåt lúâi nhùæc nhúã möåt quaá khûá lõch sûã maâ nhiïìu du khaách ngaây nay khöng biïët möåt chuát gò. Vaâ theo nhûäng caái tïn khaác nhau àûúåc goåi búãi rêët nhiïìu ngûúâi trong söë 3 triïåu dên úã Madrid, thêåt khöng ngaåc nhiïn nïëu baån thêëy khoá tòm núi naây.

Arco coá thïí khöng phaãi laâ núi "nhaáy mùæt möåt caái laâ noá biïën mêët" maâ baån tröng mong tòm kiïëm, nhûng Museo al Aire Libre (Baão Taâng Múã) laâ möåt núi hoaân toaân daânh cho nhûäng àiïìu nhû thïë.

Nùçm bïn caånh Calle Serrano, bïn dûúái cêy cêìu àöng àuác (baån seä phaãi ài böå quaäng ngùæn khi ài vïì àûúâng Calle de Jose Abscal), úã àêy baån seä thêëy 17 taác phêím àiïu khùæc, möîi taác phêím àïìu àûúåc laâm búãi nhûäng nghïå syä Têy Ban Nha khaác nhau. Böë trñ úã àêy coá thïí cho baån àïën gêìn vaâ chaåm vaâo nhûäng bûác tûúång bùçng àöìng vaâ theáp – baån seä nhanh choáng nhêån ra núi àêy laâ Museo al Aire Libre vúái nghïå thuêåt àûúåc trûng baây cöng khai ngoaâi trúâi.

Những Viên Ngọc Ẩn Nïëu nhû baån chó quan têm àïën nghïå thuêåt vaâ vùn hoáa thò Madrid coá rêët nhiïìu nhûäng

hoân ngoåc ñt àûúåc biïët àïën àûúåc giêëu trong nhûäng ngoä ngaách khaác cuãa thaânh phöë. Möåt trong nhûäng lûåa choån laâ Museo Sorolla, cùn biïåt thûå cuä cuãa nghïå syä xûá Valencia - Joaquin Sorolla, noá àem laåi möåt caái nhòn sêu sùæc hún vïì àúâi söëng cuãa cuãa caác nghïå nhên Madrid maâ thûúâng baån coá thïí chó nhòn thêëy àûúåc àiïìu naây úã Prado hoùåc Reina Sofia nöíi tiïëng thïë giúái. Ði thïm vaâi bûúác nûäa, ngay goác àûúâng tûâ Museo Sorolla vaâ baån seä thêëy hai khu vûåc khaác cuãa thaânh phöë bõ phêìn lúán àaám àöng du khaách boã qua.

Gêìn traåm taâu àiïån ngêìm Goya, quêån Salamanca laâ möåt trong nhûäng núi thõnh vûúång nhêët úã Mercado de la Paz, möåt chúå cao cêëp vúái àêìy saãn phêím dùm böng, pho maát, àöì tûúi söëng vaâ haãi saãn Têy Ban Nha. Laâm vaâi voâng quanh caác cûãa haâng vaâ tòm kiïëm quaán cafeá, thêåt thöng minh khi gheá quaán Santa (söë 56 àûúâng Calle de Serrano), laâ möåt trong nhûäng cûãa haâng sö-cö-la àûúåc yïu thñch nhêët úã Madrid, noá nùçm úã trung têm cuãa khu phöë.

Rúâi khoãi Salamanca, möåt trong nhûäng kho baáu ñt àûúåc biïët àïën hún úã thaânh phöë naây laâ quêån Malasaña. Tûúng tûå nhû East Village cuãa New York hay Camden Town cuãa London, khu phöë naây tûå haâo coá nhûäng quaán bar thoaãi maái nhû La Paca (söë 36 àûúâng Calle de Valverde) vaâ Lolina (söë 9 àûúâng Calle del Espñritu Santo), nhiïìu cûãa haâng àöì sida cöí àiïín, nhûäng phoâng trûng baây kyâ quùåc vaâ nhûäng cêu laåc böå àïm naáo nhiïåt khaác xa nhûäng khu vûåc khaác cuãa trung têm, vaâ chuáng seä àöët saåch tiïìn cuãa baån.

Xóa Dấu Vết Tuy nhiïn, möåt cuöåc phiïu lûu thêåt sûå úã Madrid khöng thïí kïët thuác maâ khöng nhùæc túái hai trong söë nhûäng àiïìu tuyïåt vúâi nhêët: àöì ùn vaâ thûác uöëng. ÚÃ àêy, nhû luác àêìu töi àaä àïì cêåp, vêìn àïì cuãa "viïåc khaám phaá nhûäng núi àaä àûúåc biïët àïën" cho thêëy vêîn coân nhiïìu phiïìn haâ. Sau hïët, nïëu giúái thiïåu möåt nhaâ haâng maâ khöng ai biïët àïën thò moåi ngûúâi seä trúã nïn nghi ngúâ.

Tuy nhiïn, do nguy cú laâm mêët sûå cên bùçng, töi seä cho thïm hai giúái thiïåu àïí laâm cho tûúng xûáng. Ðêìu tiïn, Taberna de Cien

HÌNH AÛNH: FERNANDO MADARIAGA / ICEX

HÌNH AÛNH: FÉLIX LORRIO / ICEX

Môt MADRID Khác La

Vinos (söë 17 àûúâng Calle del Nuncio), nùçm úã La Latina, laâ möåt chöî töëi vaâ hêìu nhû ñt àûúåc du khaách biïët àïën mùåc duâ noá phuåc vuå moán pinchos miïîn phñ vaâ moán raciones khaá reã. Thûá hai, Cafeá Moderno (söë 1, Plaza Comendadoras), thò àûúåc biïët àïën nhiïìu hún, nhûng vêîn khaá thuá võ nhúâ möåt sên thûúång ngoaâi trúâi khöíng löì, coá nhaåc söëng haâng àïm vaâ àöåc têëu vùn hoåc hai lêìn möîi tuêìn.

Giúái thiïåu nhûäng quaán bar trong möåt thaânh phöë coá söë dên àöng hún bêët cûá núi khaác úã Chêu Êu thêåt khöng bao giúâ dïî. Baån thêåt sûå muöën têån hûúãng nhûäng thûá hay nhêët, töët nhêët tûâ Madrid naây? Vêåy haäy gaåt boã caách du lõch thöng thûúâng àïën nhûäng núi àaä àûúåc biïët àïën. ÚÃ möåt thaânh phöë nhû thïë naây, núi maâ coá nhiïìu hay ñt thûá maâ baån mong muöën, quyïët àõnh khaám phaá noá nhû thïë naâo laâ chñnh úã baån chûá khöng phaãi cuãa bêët cûá ai khaác.

CHỖ Ở Westin Palace, số 7 Plaza de las Cortes (giá phòng khoảng 3 triệu đồng mỗi đêm) Khách sạn Vincci Capitol, số 41 đường Calle Gran Via (giá phòng khoảng 1.3 triệu đồng mỗi đêm) Petit Palace, đường Puerta del Sol (giá phòng khoảng 840,000 đồng mỗi đêm) Thông tin www.tourspain.es

May 2012 Word | 155

THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Chuyên gia ẩm thực của chúng tôi theo hướng Quận 3 ghé nhà hàng Chile đầu tiên của thành phố và quay vòng về thưởng thức những trải nghiệm tại một nhà hàng có cảm hứng từ triều đại Lý. Ảnh bởi EJ Chung

Chile House 42BIS TRẦN QUỐC THẢO, Q3. ĐT: 6290 7598 ÚÃ MÖÅT THAÂNH PHÖË MAÂ TÑNH QUÖËC TÏË ngaây caâng tùng nhû thaânh phöë naây vaâ thûåc khaách sùén saâng hoåc hoãi nhûäng moán múái laå, thò sûå xuêët hiïån cuãa Chile House - nhaâ haâng Chile àêìu tiïn úã Saâi Goân, àûúåc xem nhû laâ möåt sûå ngaåc nhiïn vaâ khöng traánh khoãi.

Khi vaâo Chile House, chuáng töi chuá yá rùçng moåi ngûúâi àïìu àang nhêm nhi vúái rûúåu vang, coá thïí laâ rûúåu merlot, cabernet sauvignon hay syrah, thêåt khöng ngaåc nhiïn khi thûåc àún coá möåt danh saách rûúåu vang phong phuá – khoaãng 20 vang àoã vaâ trùæng khaác nhau cho lûåa choån, vaâ giaá tûâ 80,000 àöìng àïën 120,000 àöìng cho möåt ly hay tûâ 245,000 àöìng àïën 3 triïåu àöìng cho möåt chai. Ðaáp ûáng àêìy àuã nhu cêìu cho caã nhûäng ngûúâi coân laå lêîm vúái rûúåu vang vaâ nhûäng ngûúâi tòm kiïëm sûå tinh tïë.

Töi goåi Santa Rita Reserva. Vúái giaá 120,000 àöìng möåt ly, noá laâ möåt trong nhûäng lûåa choån àùæt tiïìn nhûng àaáng giaá tûâng àöìng. Mûúåt maâ, nheå nhaâng vaâ êëm aáp, muâi hûúng cuãa noá kïët húåp muâi traái cêy chñn thêîm, êín dûúái muâi mêån vaâ võ cay nöìng, keáo daâi sau khi nuöët. Thêåt hay.

156 | Word May 2012

Thûåc àún coá hún 40 moán, nhiïìu trong söë àoá àûúåc giúái thiïåu nhû laâ àùåc saãn truyïìn thöëng cuãa bùæc Chile àûúåc giúái quyá töåc Têy Ban Nha yïu thñch, bao göìm gaâ nêëu vúái rûúåu syrah, dï nêëu vúái rûúåu chardinnay - au gratin vaâ rêët nhiïìu moán baánh ngon nêëu tûâ bùæp vaâ böåt.

Chuáng töi bùæt àêìu vúái moán suáp Chile. Ðûúåc àûång trong möåt àôa loâng sêu bùçng sûá maâu trùæng, moán göìm thõt boâ, haânh, àêåu trùæng vaâ caâ chua hêìm. Moán coá àöå dñnh vûâa phaãi vaâ mang möåt maâu cam nêu nheå tûåa nhû suáp àuöi boâ hay suáp thõt. Noáng, nhûng khöng cay nöìng, vaâ àiïìu naây laâm töi húi thêët voång. Tuy vêåy, möåt lûúång tiïu àen àaä àûúåc cho vaâo àïí khùæc phuåc àiïìu naây.

Moán tiïëp theo laâ baánh mò sandwich Pinera àûúåc laâm búãi võ töíng thöëng Chile, Sebastian Pinera, trong chuyïën thùm viïëng cuãa öng höìi thaáng trûúác. Ðûúåc laâm tûâ caá höìi hun khoái, rau arugula vaâ pho-maát kem keåp giûäa hai laát baánh mò maâu nêu, noá laâ möåt moán ùn nheå khiïm töën chûáa nhiïìu dêìu muâi têy. Mùåc duâ ngon, nhûng moán vêîn thiïëu gò àoá vaâ vúái caái giaá 120,000 àöìng coá thïí khöng

laâm haâi loâng, àùåc biïåt laâ khi coân coá nhiïìu nhaâ haâng khaác trong trung têm phuåc vuå moán naây töët hún.

Chuáng töi goåi moán yïu thñch cuãa nhaâ haâng cho moán chñnh – thõt boâ thùn nêëu vúái rûúåu merlot. Thõt boâ dai khoá cùæt, mùåc duâ chuáng töi àöí cho àoá laâ do dao cuân hún laâ chêët lûúång thõt, baãn thên thõt ngon vaâ laâ boâ àõa phûúng. Tuy nhiïn, lúáp nûúác phuã thò xuêët sùæc. Beáo, ngoåt vaâ thúm, moán naây thêåt sûå ngon, mùåc duâ nhûäng miïëng khoai têy nùçm bïn caånh nïn àûúåc àùåt úã trïn thò töët hún.

Vúái phêìn traáng miïång GIÁ húi bõ haån chïë (chó coá SOUP CHILE baánh flan hay traái cêy), 140,000 ĐỒNG chuáng töi choån möåt moán Chile laâm theo moán baánh BÁNH MÌ SANDWICH ûa thñch cuãa vuâng Nam PINERA Myä, baánh empanada de 120,000 ĐỒNG pino. Moán baánh nûúáng THỊT BÒ THĂN naây chûáa àêìy thõt boâ, 195,000 ĐỒNG haânh, ö-liu àen vaâ trûáng luöåc. Mùåc duâ rêët ngon, BÁNH EMPANADA DE PINO ngûúâi phuåc vuå nûä nhêët 89,000 ĐỒNG quyïët cho àoá laâ moán traáng miïång. Giöëng nhû phong caách trang trñ riïng NHÂN XÉT cuãa nhaâ haâng, chuáng töi thêëy moán baánh naây coá möåt chuát kyâ laå trûúác khi THỨC ĂN noá àûúåc hêm laåi.

Chuáng töi khöng bõ taác àöång maånh búãi thûác ùn, PHỤC VỤ nhûng rûúåu vang tuyïåt vúâi. Caã hai chuáng töi seä sùén saâng quay trúã laåi Chile House.

8.5 11 7.5 NỘI THẤT

Lý Club 143 NAM KỲ KHỞI NGHĨA, Q3. ĐT: 3930 5588 MÙÅC DUÂ NGOAÅI HÒNH KHÖNG PHAÃI laâ têët caã, nhûng rêët khoá àïí khöng khoãi sûäng súâ trûúác veã àeåp löång lêîy cuãa Lyá Club – baãn thên nhaâ haâng laâ möåt sûå kñnh troång àïën triïìu àaåi Lyá. Thanh lõch nhûng giaãn dõ, chuáng töi ngöìi ngoaâi vûúân vúái cêy xanh bao phuã vaâ aánh saáng dõu nheå, bao quanh búãi àöì nöåi thêët ngoaâi trúâi thoaãi maái kiïíu Phaáp trïn möåt khu vûåc saân göî. Möåt àaâi phun nûúác tuyïåt àeåp, möåt cùn biïåt thûå röång kiïíu Phaáp vaâ möåt quêìy bar ngoaâi trúâi kiïíu daáng àeåp mùæt. Sûå öìn aâo höîn loaån cuãa êm thanh ngoaâi àûúâng vaâo giúâ cao àiïím àûúåc thay thïë bùçng doâng êm nhaåc AÁ Êu thû giaän.

Thûåc àún àûúåc chia laâm hai phêìn – Ðöng vaâ Têy. Tuy nhiïn, coá veã nhû laâ noá àaánh lûâa thûåc khaách möåt chuát vò sûå thêåt laâ hêìu hïët caác moán úã àêy àïìu kïët húåp caác thaânh phêìn cuãa caã êím thûåc Têy Êu vaâ Chêu AÁ. Ðùåc àiïím aãnh hûúãng nöíi bêåt laâ êím thûåc Phaáp.

Chuáng töi goåi moán tûâ caã hai phêìn vaâ bùæt àêìu bûäa bùçng moán soâ àiïåp aáp chaão vaâ gaåo nïëp àen chiïn gioân vúái nûúác söët nghïå têy chanh beurre blanc, dêìu thaão möåc xanh, laá

chanh vaâ xaâ laách tröån, vaâ cuâng luác moán voã trûáng nhöìi haãi saãn chiïn gioân àûúåc mang ra. Chuáng töi sûãng söët vò caách trònh baây cuãa möîi moán.

Ba miïëng soâ àiïåp lúán, trùæng muöët nùçm trïn ba chiïëc baánh nïëp chiïn – têët caã àïìu mïìm vaâ to. Bú trùæng vaâ dêìu thaão möåc àem laåi möåt võ kem thúm nöìng vaâ àa võ, böí sung hûúng võ cho soâ àiïåp vaâ kïët cêëu khö gioân cuãa gaåo nïëp. Tuyïåt vúâi.

Chuáng töi khöng thêåt sûå àïí yá lùæm moán haãi saãn chiïn gioân àûúåc trònh baây vúái nhûäng voâng voã trûáng. Coá leä möåt phêìn do ngêy ngö, caã hai chuáng töi àïìu khaá ngaåc nhiïn khi nhêån thêëy àang nhai, theo möåt caách nghôa àen, voã trûáng. Moán coá võ taåm öín, nhûng noá coá thïí laâ moán maâ töi khöng muöën goåi möåt lêìn nûäa, mùåc duâ hûúng võ höîn húåp haãi saãn vaâ võ ngoåt cuãa nûúác söët mêån rêët ngon.

Cho moán chñnh, chuáng töi goåi moán gaâ vûúân nûúáng vúái nûúác söët mêåt ong nhiïåt àúái vaâ sûúân cûâu nûúáng vúái rau suáp ratatouille vaâ khoai têy nhuyïîn. Chuáng àûúåc mang ra, caã võ lêîn caách trònh baây àïìu tuyïåt. Thõt gaâ

vaâ cûâu àûúåc nûúáng hoaân haão. Moán gaâ mïìm vaâ khöng khö, phêìn bïn ngoaâi gioân gioân vûâa ùn, kïët húåp töët vúái lúáp mêåt ong phuã trïn, trong khi àoá phêìn thõt bïn trong vêîn coân mang möåt maâu höìng tinh tïë. Ðiïìu khöng haâi loâng duy nhêët cuãa chuáng töi laâ thõt cûâu nhiïìu múä quaá, mùåc duâ phêìn thõt naåc mêåp maåp vêîn àuã laâm thoãa maän sûå khoá chõu cuãa chuáng töi. Moán rau suáp ratatouille thò beáo vaâ àêìy pho-maát trong khi khoai têy nhuyïîn thò nheå nhaâng vaâ ngoân ngoåt, möåt sûå kïët húåp thuá võ caã vïì hûúng võ lêîn kïët cêëu.

Chuáng töi kïët thuác bûäa töëi vúái baánh phomaát dêu cuãa Lyá Club vaâ moán baánh moelleux au chocolat êëm. Baánh pho-maát àûúåc àem ra vúái möåt nûãa taá laát dêu àûúåc phuã ngoaâi lúáp söët coulee vaâ möåt viïn kem àaá dêu trong röí baánh xöëp. Noá khaá hún moán kia khi chuáng töi nhêån ra moán baánh húi GIÁ àùæng, thêåm chñ àaä cho SÒ ĐIỆP thïm kem chua fraiche 235,000 ĐỒNG vaâ vaâi laát cam. Baánh pho-maát daây vaâ coá thïí VỎ TRỨNG NHỒI HẢI SẢN àöëi vúái möåt vaâi ngûúâi laâ 160,000 ĐỒNG quaá ngoåt, nhûng chuáng SƯỜN CỪU töi hoaân toaân muöën ùn 525,000 ĐỒNG thïm.

Chùæc chùæn, bûäa töëi naây khaá mùæc, nhûng nïëu àûâng chuá yá quaá vaâ bûäa töëi naây àaáng giaá – àùåc biïåt laâ khung caãnh dïî chõu xung quanh – 2 triïåu cho möåt bûäa ùn vúái ba moán daânh cho hai ngûúâi laâ húåp lyá.

GÀ NƯỚNG 180,000 ĐỒNG BÁNH PHO-MÁT LÝ CLUB 125,000 ĐỒNG BÁNH MOELLEUX AU CHOCOLAT 125,000 ĐỒNG

NHÂN XÉT MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

12.5 11.5 13 THỨC ĂN

PHỤC VỤ

NỘI THẤT

THE FINAL SAY

The Final Say GO NATIVE OR GO HOME / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / ON THE STOOL PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

Go Native or Go Home Foreigners living in Vietnam do more than just adapt. Many of them go native. Have you? Here are 20 ways of telling

1) When driving a motorbike you accelerate through amber lights, drive the wrong way down one-way streets, don't give way and overtake other vehicles on the outside, even when they're indicating that they're turning left.

2) Taking the rubber bands off plastic bags filled with takeaway noodle soup has become easy — you can now do it without spilling any liquid on yourself. You are even able to put on the rubber bands faster than the lady in the soup shop.

3) You have stopped trying to eat a bowl of rice with chopsticks.

4) Time takes on a totally new meaning.

A 2.30, afternoon meeting means 2.45 or even 3pm. And hitting deadlines and getting everything ready in time becomes the exception rather than the norm.

5) Picking your nose in public, spitting on the sidewalk or squeezing your spots with the reflective aid of your wing mirror are no longer repulsive. They are things you do, too. You even let your partner dispense of those gruesome blackheads over your morning, on-the-street cafe da.

6) You start wearing long trousers and shirts out of work and during the day in heat so intense that even sunbathing on the beach would be too much. And if the temperature goes below 25°C you start complaining that it's cold.

7) You spend half your time raving on about how amazing your home country is but then claim conversely that you would

never live there again. You spend the rest of your time telling other foreigners how dire ‘home’ really is and trying to justify in some roundabout way why you're living in Vietnam.

8) You complain about the lack of music or culture in this town and yet when it comes to spending VND500,000 or even VND200,000 to go to a gig, a Cham event or a cultural party, you don't go. And yet you're more than happy to spend double that on a night out on the town and quadruple on impressing the latest girlfriend.

demeaning. You live here.

14) Left-wing, political correctness, indignance at all the unfairness in the world and an unquestioning belief in the moral and intellectual superiority of the west no longer rule the way you look at and behave towards Vietnam.

15) The majority of travel and news features published about Vietnam overseas make you froth at the mouth due to their lack of accuracy and their lack of fairness towards your adopted home.

9) It no longer seems odd to be giving, erm, your girlfriend or boyfriend a monthly salary for erm, being your boyfriend or girlfriend.

16) No longer do you try to be ‘green’ and environmentally friendly by sleeping at night with only a fan. You have long since switched over to an air-conditioner.

10) The music you hear in the nightclubs has stopped feeling dated, crass and mainstream.

17) Telling your staff “this is the way it's done in the west” is no longer part of your vocabulary. You have instead adopted a pragmatic approach to dealing with problems, getting things done and motivating the people you work with.

11) You cross the road in the middle of busy junctions, roundabouts, highways and when the lights are green.

12) Even though teaching is a noble, vital profession, you start looking down on all English teachers and begin treating them like they are the scum of the earth. Because after all, you're the one with the real job.

13) Heading down to The Pham only happens on those rare occasions when you end up at Go2 or Long Phi at 3am. Otherwise you avoid the area like a plague. The idea of having crass conversations with backpackers or being treated like just another tourist is

18) You start telling people that although you don't speak great Vietnamese, you understand what people are saying.

Until of course it comes to the moment you are surrounded by Vietnamese and are completely lost.

19) Sentence constructions such as “yesterday I go to shop” and “we eat finish, we go home” become regular, subconscious features of your vocabulary.

20) You’ve given up learning Vietnamese.

So how well have you acclimatized and how much have you been influenced by life in Vietnam? Have you gone native or have you merely adapted?

If you have checked 10 or more boxes, then the answer is that you’ve probably gone native and if these assessments disturb you at all, don't let them. After all, who wants to live in those dull, failing democracies overseas anyway?

RAI

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160 | The Word March 2012

Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Nguyen Du, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 - E4, F4, F5 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, B4, B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 Nguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, D6, E6 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, B4, B5 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 Thai Van Lung, Q1 - B6, C6 Thi Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, C7, D7, E7 Ton That Dam, Q1 - D6, E6 Ton That Thiep, Q1 - D6 Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, D3, D4, E4 Truong Quyen, Q3 - A3, A4 Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, F5, F6 Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5

uoi Ch on Vu

Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Calmette, Q1 - E5, F5 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 Co Bac, Q1 - F4 Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, C1, C2, D1 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, D5, E4 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 Me Linh Circle, Q1 - D7 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 Ngo Van Nam, Q1 - B7 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

A

g Sa Truon ng Sa H oa

Ky

CENTRAL HCMC

NA M

hinh Thang Ly C

Street Index

2

Din h

1

N

{crossword}

GET SPOOKED 1

2

3

4

5

14

7

8

18

20

21

10

11

36

32

37

38

42

27

28

29

33

30 34 40

48

49 51

50 56

55

63

52 57

58

64

62

66

67

72

73

74

75

76

77

69

59

60

65

61

68

41

45

44

47

54

23

39

43

46

13

19

26

31

12

16

22

25

24

53

9

15

17

35

6

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 6

71

70

26. Tale of heroism

67. 1982 ghost flick with two sequels 72. “Don’t get ___ ideas”

32. ____ group (people sharing a common culture)

30. “That makes sense”: 2wds.

73. TV’s “Mistress of the Dark”

34. Basinger of “L.A. Confidential”

74. Opening poker contribution

35. Morning droplets on grass

31. Letters between B and F

75. Hi-____ graphics

36. Pie ____ mode: 2wds.

76. Does preflight airplane maintenance in winter

37. With 1-Across, Ira Levin novel made into a 1968 film

77. Rip

39. More enormous

33. It’s used to draw water from a well

DOWN

41. It’s pumped into a car

1. Moisten in the oven, as a turkey

38. Novel by 17-Across: 2wds.

2. Played a part

43. Title for Andrew Lloyd Webber or Ian McKellen

1. See 37-Down 5. Actor Jean-____ Van Damme 11. Lifesaving medical technique, for short 14. 43,560 square feet 15. Genre of 38-Across and 67-Across

rock band, for short 43. Moo ____ pork 44. “Home Improvement” star Allen 45. MTV hostess Peeples 46. “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow” author Irving 49. Fishes with electric organs 50. More like a 17-Across novel

16. “____ Haw” (long-running variety show)

51. Young lady in a square dance

17. Master of 15-Across: 2wds.

19. Stimpy’s cartoon sidekick

55. “Skeleton ____” (book by 17-Across)

20. Caffeinated beverage

57. “Saturday Night Fever” music

21. End of some E-mail addresses

61. Actors Pitt and Renfro

22. It may be stuffed with pimento

63. “Tales From the Crypt” broadcaster

24. Son of Herman and Lily Munster

53. Wile E. Coyote’s preferred brand

By Alena Yurchenko

40. Nothing

35. “The ____ Half” (novel by 17-Across)

42. “Evil Woman” ACROSS

3. Sandwich need 4. Opposite of “nope” 5. “Believe” singer 6. Yearns (for) 7. Noah’s boat 8. Geller with supposed mental powers 9. “Nash Bridges” star Johnson 10. Therefore 11. Novel by 17-Across 12. Pet ____ (continual annoyance) 13. “One True Thing” actress Zellweger

47. Pay attention to 48. Italian for “three” 49. Cotton gin inventor Whitney 52. Sick as ____: 2wds.

53. “Fuzzy Wuzzy was ____ …”: 2wds.

54. “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow” character Ichabod ____ 56. In which place 58. “Goosebumps” series author R.L. ____ 59. ____ Rica (Central American country) 60. Playful aquatic mammal

18. Used a long-handled garden tool

62. Floored it

23. Property claim

64. Bikini tops

25. “Eeew!”

68. “Bravo!”, at a bullfight

27. President Lincoln, familiarly

69. 56, in Roman numerals

65. Preschooler

28. Enthusiasm

70. ____-tac-toe

66. Lobed body part

29. Sore, as a back

71. Scarf down

Trivia Buff

Muine Surf Style

{pop lingo

2) A pearmain is what type of fruit?

3) Who was the first footballer to be knighted while still playing?

4) Who had A White Riot in 1977?

5) Only one artist had two records named by 'melody maker' as Album of the Year during the 1970s, who was he?

6) Kurt Cobain provided lead vocals

162 | Word May 2012

for which grunge band?

Answers on page 2

7) Who made a comeback to BBC television after a 50 year break?

Was it Bruce Forsyth, Muffin The Mule or Andy Pandy?

8) What chemical element has the atomic number one?

9) Who received a medal for helping her lighthouse father to rescue five people from a shipwreck in 1838?

10) Which is England's largest castle?

11) What was the first British instrumental to top the US charts?

12) In what country were the summer Olympic Games held in 2008?

13) In what year was suffragette Emily Davidson killed by King George V's horse in the Epsom Derby?

singer was known as Satchmo?

16) In what year was the Berlin Wall constructed?

1.

3.

4.

5.

17) Name Charles Lindbergh's plane on the first solo transatlantic flight 18) In what European country are the headquarters of FIFA? 19) What is an exoskeleton?

14) In what month did the Russian October Revolution take place?

quiz}

WIN !!

R P IZES

The first and second persons to send all correct answers will win a free 20-hour and a free 10-hour Vietanamese language course, respectively, at Vietnamese Language Studies Saigon (VLS).

Send your answers to christine@wordhcmc.com.*

2.

1) What song begins, “Heaven. I'm in Heaven''?

Do you ow na photograp h that would look good here? Ema il it to christin e@ wordhcmc. com

20) Who released an autobiography entitled My Take?

6.

7.

8.

9.

*Prizes are for first time winners only and all submissions will be forwarded to VLS

1. The pronoun you use to call your parents’ parents 2. What you miss the most when you are far away from home 3. In certain areas in the Delta, this pronoun is used to call one’s father. It was used in old Vietnamese films as the formal way to call one’s father 4. What is the basic bonding that connects all members of a family

together?

5. The general noun for both daughter and son 6. Name of the traditional lunar day that honours mothers in Vietnam 7. Term used to call your older brother 8. It is the term people call their moms in some southern regions 9. The youngest son/ daughter in your family

15) What trumpet playing jazz

May 2012 Word | 163

on THE

STOOL Jovial turntablist and music promoter Mark Jolly y warms up this month’s stool with a few words of wisdom

THE PERSON What is your idea of perfect happiness?

Having been officially voted one of the world's most ironically named people, I have no idea what this question means.

What is your greatest fear?

Being attacked at night by a highly trained team of ninja gerbils (or jerboas). I really don't have the skills to defend myself against something like that.

What historical or living figure do you most identify with?

On a bad day either Tantalus or Sisyphus, or a bit of both. On a good one, Frankie Howerd.

What living person do you most admire?

This was the hardest question to answer, and I had to tear myself away from the mirror for quite a while to think of an answer. Do the Muppets count?

On what occasions do you lie?

With every breath. I prefer to think of it as weaving fantastical fabrications to amuse myself and others, but really I'm just a big fibber at heart.

If you could change one thing about yourself, what would it be?

I'm actually OK with who I am, but then again I've always been a very poor judge of character.

How would you like to die?

Before I hit the ground, but after anyone who's ever got my dander up.

THE BUSINESS

164 | Word May 2012

How do you make a living g out of music here?

I'm incredibly lucky in that hat I make a decent enough living in the music/club scene outside the DJing. If I didn't, I'd be playing more weddings and kids’ parties, and charging for this interview. erview. I think this is an incredibly hard d environment for a foreigner to make a living ing from music without compromise and d I admire anyone who does.

Will Vietnam ever be able le to get the biggest artists to perform on Friday and Saturday nights or will we have to be content with mid-week shows while Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore get the premium nights?

Other places in the region have better venues, bigger and more knowledgeable crowds, more money from sponsors etc.

Vietnamese clubs make enough money to pay for big acts, but why should they when the local DJs entertain their crowds far better than any foreign DJ would?

Most venues that would appreciate foreign acts can't currently compete with the much higher fees that get paid for weekend gigs in places like Singapore.

What do you think Saigon’s Wh Wha W hha at d oy ou thi hiinkk of o Sai S Saigon igon on’s DJs D DJ — DJ Ajam, Justin Jordan Howard, DJ Aja A am, m Jus J ustin Murta, J ord o ordan rdan n How Howard Ho ard ard, rd, D J Jase Posers and DJ Superkid to na name me a few? f Po Pos sers or the real thing?

You cannot possibly expect me to answer this by name b basis! There question on a name b are far fewer DJs here than in other cities of comparable size, it's just that the nature of the nightlife scene here makes the foreign DJs seem ubiquitous and inescapable. We've got to promote our gigs, after all! As anywhere, the DJs here differ wildly in musical styles, ability, personality and cup size (often in the course of a night).

You’ve just celebrated a decade in Vietnam, any advice for the newcomers hoping to make it?

Those dreams you have of shaking up the music scene here and making it as good as home? Put them in a nice safe box. You won't need them for a while yet!

PHOTO BY EJ CHUNG

You’ve bought in some big names like Leeroy Thornhill, Diplo and Major Laser, how difficult is it to get them here? How do you choose whom to bring over?

One advantage is that many acts really want

to get off the normal gig g circuit and try somewhere new and d ‘exotic’.

With every act that we get over I try my best to make thee entire experience as enjoyablee as possible, and slowly y word is getting around that this can be a great place to play.

Choosing whom to bring over is really tricky. ky.

The vast majority of actss that I would love to book simply mply wouldn't work here, so I'm always looking to balance ce up runs of DJs who bring something omething exciting to the commercial ial scene with acts that will push things forward while still making ng people dance ‘til their bits fall off. ff.