Word Ho Chi Minh City November 2012 by Word Vietnam

Contents

wordhcmc.com

NOVEMBER 2012

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031

056

036

062

FEATURES 006 | The Prelude THE TALK 009 | The Big Five

034 046

THE MANY SHADES OF HUE

Vietnam’s former capital refuses to move with modern times

010 | Just In

052

058

018 | Word of Mouth

024 | Calendar 026 | Overscene INSIDER

SIT DOWN AND DELIVER Hungry? Who you gonna call?

014 | The Buzz

022 | In the Papers

BIG BEN

Stories, bargains, history and more under Ben Thanh Market’s roof

THE LIFE OF PIE

From pumpkin to apple, we’ve got you covered for Thanksgiving

060

ANSWERING THE CRITICS

She left home and travelled the world on US$700. Now she’s back in Vietnam and has some explaining to do

062

THE TRAVELLING TROUBADOUR The Voice?

030 l Mushrooms With a Mission

COLUMNS 084 l Destination Zero 100 l Foodie Corner 111 l For The Record 112 l Road Rules 113 l Decks 'n Drums CITY GUIDE TIENG VIET HANOI 137 l The Free Man 138 l Mobbed

Fungus becomes a source of income for landmine survivors in Quang Tri

FINAL SAY

032 l Enter the King

The iPhone 5 is the new ‘face’ of greed and wealth in Vietnam

This fast food chain is letting Vietnam have it their way

054 l Money Talks A local financial TV show tries to grab an audience with affluent Vietnamese women

056 l Mystery Diner Our critic samples the fine fare of Italian cuisine

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144 l The Apple of My Eye

Trivia Buff Answers See p154 for the original puzzle

146 l Dead Heat

1) Deep Blue Something 2) Seville 3) Atom Bombs / Japan 4) First Sub 4 Minute Mile 5) Richard II 6) Hershey, Pennsylvania 7) Equinox 8) Roses 9) Martin Scorsese 10) A Zebra 11) An Acre 12) Four Tops 13) Cutty Sark 14) McClaren 15) Charles Manson 16) Roald Dahl 17) The Undertones 18) Archimedes 19) Absolute Begginers 20) Silver

152 l On the Stool

We learn a little about the killer’s past Curtis King hops on to rap about his recent Grammy nod

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL CHRISTINE VAN Chief Editor christine@wordhcmc.com

NAM QUAN Staff Photographer nam@wordhcmc.com

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JAMES ALLEN Deputy Editor james@wordhcmc.com

VU HA KIM VY Staff Reporter kimvy@wordhcmc.com

NICK ROSS Editor-at-Large nick@wordhcmc.com

ADMINISTRATION DUONG VY BAO General Director bao@wordhcmc.com bao@wordhanoi.com

LE DANG PHUONG TRANG Chief Accountant accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING DUONG THI THANH XUAN Sales Manager xuan@wordhcmc.com

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For advertising enquiries please call Xuan on +84 1227 055122 or Bao on +84 938 609 689 Special thanks to Michael Arnold, Michale Halloran, Rob Marsh, James Pham, Francis, Kyle Phanroy, Kim Megson, Claire Driscoll and Lyra Dacio for their contribution to this issue. S

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P D A O A T I

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L A S B A S

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A R T S K Y S

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G R A M M Y A W A R S

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Crossword Answers See p154 for the original puzzle. Puzzle by Frank A. Longo. Edited by Will Shortz

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC

S A

H E R

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A R K S

T U D

Y E A

F R O N T W O M A N R A Y

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A P E X

E A D V O C A L E

P A M

Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: + 84 8 3839 0970 Fax: + 84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Lê Huy Hòa Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Dương Vy Bảo Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Quận 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordhcmc.com Website: www.wordhcmc.com

In tại Công Ty In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Giấy XNĐKKHXB của Cục XB số: 161/CXB-QLXB/ ngày 18/01/2012 Quyết định xuất bản số 366 QĐCN/LĐ Nhà xuất bản Lao Động cấp ngày 11/10/2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu năm 2012.

The Prelude Y

ou may have guessed this month’s issue might have something to do with Ben Thanh Market, and you’d be correct. Has it already been done you may ask? Yes it has, but not by us. With that in mind we threw ourselves into the task of rediscovering the much maligned and much loved cho we all can’t imagine Saigon without. Whether you’re zooming through it during the day, keeping your head down and your arms away from the fierce vendors, or sailing past its neon lights during the wee hours, it still maintains a messy and altogether unique charm. Our roving writers haggled and pleaded, begged and bargained, and eventually came out, limbs intact, with

a whole host of stories we never knew existed. There is certainly a lot more to this place than meets the eye. Not confining ourselves purely to sales this month, we’ve also had time to chat with the people behind Burger King’s current expansion in Vietnam as well as playing mediator to a group of competing titans working in the online food delivery industry. Going to the opposite end of the historical spectrum, we spotlight the ancient city of Hue, a place often visited but rarely understood. Back in Ho Chi Minh City our new staff writer, Ed Weinberg, shadowed a Travelling Troubadour as he wound his way through the city’s nightspots. He also

INBOX SOME APPRECIATION

(The Sommelier, October 2012) Thank you so much again for putting out Word for us. I really appreciate it! I also like several articles this issue especially the one on the Sommelier. Our lives here are richer because of your vision and insightful writing. Great job! — Luka

THINKING AHEAD

Hey guys, got an idea for an article for you. The locals, especially xe om drivers, love playing Chinese chess, but there’s a little bit of irony in this leisure pastime. The game hinges on the fact that you need to think strategically and several moves ahead while also considering your opponents moves. So, why don’t they apply this to everyday life? When I ask how much a ride costs, they jack it up five times. If they had just thought several moves ahead and given me a fair price, then I would use him again and again instead of never. Checkmate, buddy. — The Pawn

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gives us the low down on which pie is packing heat for Thanksgiving this year. Lolita Guevarra has been busy chasing down yet another impressive Saigon resident who is broadcasting the world of economics to an increasing affluent demographic of Vietnamese women. As ever we look forward to getting your feedback. To make it easier for you, you can text your comments direct to our chief editor Christine Van. Simply drop her an SMS on 0947 074136 (please refrain from sending drunken texts). Alternatively you can email her on christine@wordhcmc.com. We look forward to hearing from you! Happy Thanksgiving America and Happy Guy Fawkes Night Britain!

THIS MONTH'S COVER Illustration by Eddy Coubeaux

DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US EITHER BY EMAIL ON CHRISTINE@WORDHCMC. COM OR BY TEXT ON 0947 074 136 — WE’RE NOW AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.

SAVE THE ANIMALS

(The Great Debate, October 2012) I enjoyed reading The Great Debate. Oddly enough I recently read in The Guardian about a rich Vietnamese woman buying a rhino horn from Africa because she believed it would help cure her kidney stones. The photo showed this fat lady holding the horn, grinding it into powder to be mixed with water and then drunk. I thought to myself, you fat silly b***h. Why don’t you try to lose weight then you can lose your kidney stones instead of killing a lovely creature like that? And now reading your article where the Vietnamese author condones the same behaviour. The fate of these two should mirror that of the dead rhino. — Horny Lover

The Talk

THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE

THE

BIG

LMFAO

After the success of its first Ho Chi Minh City outing, Saigon Comedy Nights is returning to Hard Rock Cafe (39 Le Duan, Q1) on Monday Nov. 19 and Tuesday Nov. 20. With Malaysian Astro television football presenter Kavin Jay as emcee, also gracing the stage will be famed Australian Vietnamese gagster, Hung Le, and Canadian Mountie with a bounty, Glenn Wool. Tickets are VND200,000. Advance purchase and table booking are highly recommended. Last time round the venue was packed out. For more info on the comedians, got to www.hungle.com. au, www.glennwool.com and do a search on Facebook and Wikipedia for Kavin Jay.

PUCKER UP

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH

AN AURAL ADVENTURE

AFTER THE FALL OF EDEN Vincom Center A (or Eden Mall 2 to old timers) opened last month. But is it an icon like its predecessor?

t's ironic that amid the spot lit glare of all the stalled construction projects, the one to be completed on time is the most controversial. Controversial in that removing and relocating the residents of this iconic, colonial-built site that was once the toast of the Parisian set, was a protracted, bad-blooded battle. Controversial also that this project is headed up by Pham Nhat Vuong, the man behind Vincom Center B, the shopping mall diagonally opposite. All meaning that this Ukrainian-Vietnamese billionaire has carved himself out a strategically located slice of downtown Saigon. But amid the subterranean levels of car and motorbike parking, mixed in with the Singaporean-style, fast food-brand food courts. And found inside the endless levels of shops selling wares that most of this metropolis's population can't afford, there is another significance to this monolith. Besides the Park Hyatt, it represents the first major downtown development that has truly attempted to keep with the glamour and colour of this city's past. The art deco exterior, with its stained glass windows and colonial, column-esque façade, together

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with its copper detailing is reminiscent of the shopping alleys of Paris, endeavours to return this former downtown icon to its original glory.

Lord of the Malls Built in the 1930s opposite the Continental Hotel and the Opera House, the original Eden Mall was truly an icon. Modelled after department stores like Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann in Paris, with its Gallic chic it was the city’s first shopping mecca. It later played a central role in Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American — Greene is supposed to have written much of his novel in the mall itself — and it also housed the famous corner bakery, Givral. Although Givral has made a comeback with a newer version of itself in this megalith, it’s the historic facade that it’s best known for. Its wartime customers included Pham Xuan An, who worked as a reporter for Reuters and Time while leading a double life as a source of intelligence for his superiors in Hanoi. Xuan later joked that he should call himself General Givral, given the amount of time he spent in the café.

In more recent years, a lack of care saw Eden Mall deteriorate. Prior to being knocked down, there was a final attempt to bring back some of its past function and glamour. An air-conditioned, faceless shopping mall was carved out of its interior, a motorbike park built in its bowels. And while the infamous bookshop Xuan Thu, opposite the Continental Hotel, continued to fashion a good business, the interior of the mall didn’t quite make the grade. It was often empty. Today’s version attempts to bring back some of the Galeries Lafayette charm that would have inspired the building of its predecessor. Except for the aesthetics of its exterior — the effort to bring back some of the charm and allure of colonial Saigon is laudable — it is instead no more than yet another shopping mall, another temple of worship to the god of consumption. Yet, thanks to location, location and location, and its façade, it is presently top of the food chain, the ‘Lord of the Malls’, so to speak. As the old saying goes: One Mall to rule them all. One Mall to find them. One Mall to bring them all and in the darkness bind them.

An evening of world-class music led by celebrated Dutch conductor Jan Stulen will take place at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House on Nov. 27. Together with the HCMC Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera, Stulen will take audiences on an aural adventure through masterpieces from legendary composers such as Brahms, Schubert and Bizet. Born in Amsterdam in 1942, Stulen conducted his first public orchestra at the age of 19 and is currently in Vietnam to teach a week-long series of conductor master classes to the winners of the talent competition So You Want to be a Conductor, open to music master students nationwide. Tickets are priced at VND250,000 with free admission for children. For more information call 3827 2715 or email info@dbav.org.vn

KEEP THEM RUNNING

The inaugural Vung Tau Running Festival will take place on Saturday Nov. 17. Join in the fun and enjoy one of Vietnam's most scenic courses. Racers and spectators can take part in a family friendly run with distances of 10km, 5km and a 1km kids' run. For more info about the event, go to www. vietnamrunningfestival.com

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Miss Summer’s Night Cream, which, you guessed it, is a rework of the famous play by a certain British bard, is coming to Saigon from Nov. 24 and is being performed by the Saigon Players at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2). Shakespeare's favourite fairy, Puck, is up to his wings in trouble while trying to protect his beloved king, Oberon. Everyone wants to have a happy Christmas in the magical fairy forest but can Puck overcome all the obstacles? The antics, audience participation and fun on stage will amuse the children, while the adults can enjoy the verbal humour. Tickets are priced at VND200,000 for adults and VND100,000 for children. Performances will take place on Nov. 24 and Nov. 25 as well as on Dec. 1 and Dec. 2, with all proceeds going to Helping Hands Saigon. For more info, email saigonplayers@gmail.com or call Jennifer on 0907 954093

HIT THE ROAD JACK

All the way from the US, The San Francisco Bay Jazz Sextet will perform throughout Vietnam from Nov. 18. The band comprises of Paco Leon on Hammond B3/piano, Jack Kerns on drums, Doug Miller on alto saxophone, Hung Nguyen on vocals and guitar, John Richards on trumpet and Mike Boone bass and vocals. After private events in Mui Ne, they will travel to The Escape Bar in Dalat for performances on Nov. 18 and Nov.19, then on Nov. 20 they will perform at the Nha Trang Sailing Club. The last stop on their tour will be here in Saigon with a show at Hard Rock Cafe on Nov. 21. They will finally end their journey at Binh An Village on Nov. 22. All proceeds paid to the band by each bar will go to Room to Read, a charity that focuses on school construction, school libraries and book publishing. For more info on the charity, go to www.roomtoread.com; and for information on the tour go to www.sfbayjazz.com

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Just In BIRTH OF THE BANYAN AND BILL’S YOUR UNCLE With an entire range of 1,800 items in stock ready for sale, Uncle Bill’s Discount Store is now adding a Doner Kebab cart to its Phu Nhuan location (116A Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan) and a new coffee shop Beans and Greens is planned for their District 2 location (49 Thao Dien, Q2) providing a wide selection of coffee, salad and sandwiches.

The opening of Banyan Tree Lang Co on Nov. 1 marks Banyan Tree Group’s first footprint in central Vietnam with a large new resort near Hue, Hoi An and Danang. Banyan Tree Lang Co offers luxurious accommodation with spacious pool villas, facilities, and an 18-hole champion golf course with an array of dining venues. Inspired by the artistic heritage of Vietnamese dynasties past, the resort features 32 lagoon pool villas and 17 beach pool villas situated in a bay framed by a 3km beach on the central coast of Vietnam. It is easily accessible and is a 60-minute car ride from Danang International airport. For the avid golfers out there, the site’s natural rugged terrain has been preserved, offering a distinctive course with changing landscape framed by mountains on three sides and the East Sea to the west. For more info, visit www.banyantree.com

BIG FOOD FROM LITTLE HONG KONG

Hong Kong casual dining restaurant Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen, is the first of its kind in Saigon and is now open to all you Cantonese cuisine lovers out there. Serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere, the restaurant claims to give guests a bona fide experience of Hong Kong food in the heart of Saigon. In addition, every Saturday and Sunday, Gourmet’s Delight offers diners a chance to indulge in an array of dishes from its weekend buffet, priced at VND350,000++ per adult and VND280,000++ per child under 12. The restaurant is located at Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1. For more info go to www.gourmetsdelight.com.vn

NOT THE LAST RESORT The picturesque coastline of central Vietnam is getting even more international standard resorts with the addition of Angsana Lang Co. Located just below the dramatic Hai Van Pass in between Hue and Danang, the property is home to 229 stylish suites varying in size from 52sqm to 179sqm; more than 100 of the suites are equipped with their own private pool. Conceptualised in tribute to the rich culture and heritage of Vietnam, renewable materials like bamboo, rattan and raffia weave can be found on fretworks, timber panelling, lighting, fabrics, finishing, lanterns and artwork. As well as the usual luxury treatment, guests can also expect a decent amount of dining options, including The Rice Bar, the resort’s very own cigar bar. For more info, go to www.angsana.com

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ONWARDS AND UPWARDS L’Usine has opened its second location on Le Loi, just a few minutes away from its original flagship store on Dong Khoi. The new store will offer new products and a new café, but all set to the same L’Usine style. Located in a colonial era French building, the owners have made every effort to return the space to its former architectural beauty, providing a much-needed escape from the chaos outside. The café will act as a panini and fresh sandwich bar, serving all-day hot panini's fresh from the grill, mixed filled baguettes and salads as well as a host of hot and cold beverages, and of course, their famous cupcakes. The new store is located at 70B Le Loi, Q1

CALLING THE SHOTS

New to the cruise and booze scene is Last Call, where artisan cocktails take centre stage in the well-appointed downtown hotspot of 59 Dong Du, Q1. A cozy bar upstairs and opposite The Sheraton, the place boasts all manner of crowd pleasers like Motown, 1970s beats and an electric terrace for those seeking what the bar calls “cultural therapy”. Midnight Xpress every Saturday nights will be hosted by DJ Valentin who will be breaking out the funk from 11pm until very late or dawn, whichever comes first. Happy hour is from 6pm until 9pm, with 50 percent off cocktails and 30 percent off Champagne, wine, spirits and nibbles. For more info call 3823 3122 or 0933 146711

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The Buzz SHOPPING FOR CHARITY Returning once again to The Deck is the Saigon Charity Bazaar, which takes place on Nov. 24 from 4pm until 8pm. There will be live Christmas music, gluhwein and festive candlelight. Vendors will be bringing you season-related gifts to buy and there will be a Christmas menu designed by chef Scottie, so booking a table in advance is advisable to make sure you get a seat after all the shopping. Proceeds will go to IMMF and Heartbeat Vietnam. For more information email saigoncharitybazaar@gmail. com. The Deck is located at 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2.

NEW SOUNDS IN THE LOUNGE From Nov. 1, The Park Hyattâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Park Lounge welcomes back on stage Canadian singer, songwriter, composer and pianist, Mary Beth Ancheta, who will be serenading guests six nights a week. Having sung in more countries than she can probably remember, Mary Beth returns for her second engagement at the hotel, giving guests a healthy mix of both the classics and new songs with her own inimitable twist. Catch her in action from Nov. 1 until Feb. 31 2013 from 8pm until 11.45pm, Wednesday to Monday each week.

REGGAE SUNFEST

THE NOSE KNOWS

With its first project at the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum (9 Pho Duc Chinh, Q1) San Art presents the solo exhibition of local artist Lena Bui until Nov. 14, entitled Voracious Embrace: The human/animal interface. Fascinated by zoonoses â&#x20AC;&#x201D; diseases such as influenza which pass to humans from animals and the relationship between the consumption of animal parts and the conditions in which they are bred, executed and packaged, Bui travelled with scientists to rural farming areas in Dong Thap and Dak O, and made independent visits to Trieu Khuc and Can Gio. Documenting her fieldwork through video, photography, sound and sketch, Bui has experimented with differing media to capture and reflect on the visceral reality of what she witnessed on her field trips.

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The Reggae Knights are back with Reggae Sunfest, a massive day of fun cultural fusion Jamaican style by the swimming pool. There will be live reggae music and all day music vibes with DJ Ajam and DJ Dan Lo. The event will take place at the 258 Club, well-known for its massive swimming pool. Entry to the event is VND50,000 or the options for free flow drinks for VND250,000, or all you can eat from the buffet for VND250,000 or the entire package of free-flow Red Rock Lager, Jamaican and international buffet, all for VND400,000. The event starts at 1pm and goes until late. For more info, visit www. calvermedia.com or call Peter on 01249 730818 258 Club is located on 258 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

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the talk ANATOMY Hosted by Michelle Lloyd, California-based Arturo Peal will run a series of anatomy and therapeutic workshops from Dec. 6 until Dec. 8. Focusing on relieving stress through therapeutic yoga, Arturo will also hold sessions designed to encourage a deeper level of understanding about connective tissue and scar tissue, and tools for using yoga asana post injury/ surgery. A certified yoga therapist and craniosacral therapist, Arturo also holds a Master’s degree in traditional Chinese medicine and has extensive clinical experience working with injuries and limitations. Contact her at michelle@ michellelloyd.com or on 0909 648193 for more details and registration. Visit www.bodystudies.com for more info

TERRY FOX RUN The 16th annual Terry Fox Run in Ho Chi Minh City will take place at the Crescent Area in Phu My Hung on Nov. 25. The Consulate General of Canada, The Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam, the Canadian International School, and the Ho Chi Minh City Union of Friendship Organizations, will be hosting this year’s event after last year’s successful run which drew 12,300 participants and raised VND1.4 billion. The organisations involved hope to garner even more support this year with the participation and support of individuals and families, school communities and corporations. Proceeds will go to the Terry Fox Foundation, an organisation focused on cancer research. For more info, go to www.terryfox.org and to take part contact hcmc@canchamvietnam.org or call 3824 3754

SUPER JUNIOR South Korea has announced that Super Junior will return to Saigon on Nov. 21 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of diplomatic ties between the country and Vietnam in an announcement made by the South Korean ConsulateGeneral. This, however, is not Super Junior’s first visit. The boy band has previously performed three times in Vietnam, much to the delight of their huge fan base over here. So, what better way to celebrate diplomatic ties than with a bit of popping and locking with the boys. Other events celebrating the relationship between the two countries will include a Korean Film Festival from Oct. 18 until Oct. 24, a chamber music performance on Nov. 11, a calligraphy exhibition from Nov. 2 until Nov. 6, as well as a Korea-Vietnam Friendship Night on Dec. 21, sneaking in just before Christmas. Catch Super Junior at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC)

MASTER CLASS A new monthly event at Vinspace in association with Cork and Bottle is bringing together the art of drinking and painting. The first Canvas and Wine evening will kick off on Nov. 22 from 6.30pm until 9pm. One evening a month art and wine lovers will be able to combine their two passions where guests will be able to enjoy two glasses of wine, a canvas and the use of acrylic paints. This month the session will focus on painting in the style of Walasse Ting. After a quick briefing on the wine of the evening, participants will be guided through the process of painting like Walasse Ting, with a life model for extra reference. There will be help throughout the process, and you can take your masterpiece home after the event. Entrance costs around VND798,000. Vinspace is located at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2. To book your place contact info@vin-space.com

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the talk JOURNEY Artist Shyevin S’ng is putting on an exhibition of work inspired by her travels at The Fine Arts Museum (9 Pho Duc Chinh, Q1) from Nov. 10 to Nov. 15, entitled A Painter’s Journey. A natural born traveller, she is acutely aware of her surroundings and loves to travel, taking in the natural beauty she finds along the way. She sees it as an exciting challenge to view a beautiful landscape and then react to it in her work. Her paintings capture the beauty of her subject while reflecting the raw quality of nature. Her current exhibition will feature new work inspired by her most recent travels.

A SHAKEN BUT NOT STIRRED XMAS Book your table for the BBGV annual social event of the year at the Caravelle Hotel Ballroom on Friday Dec. 7. Celebrating 50 years of James Bond with a 'Shaken, Not Stirred' bash, The BBGV Christmas Dinner Party will include a sumptuous four-course turkey Christmas dinner (vegetarian and fish options available) with free flowing cocktails before the meal, wine and beer, and of course the requisite bubbles. Entertainment will come in the form of live music from the Pho Fighters followed by a disco. There will also be a charity raffle with tickets going for VND100,000 each. The cost is VND2.2 million per person for members and VND2.6 million for nonmembers. Staff working for BBGV corporate members will receive the members price and if a member books and pays for a table of ten, all will receive the member’s price. Dress code for men is as 007 or any Bond character, while women should dress up as their favourite Bond girl or just look glamorous. For more information and to register, please contact Thao at events@bbgv.org or call 3829 8430. The Caravelle is at 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 and, the dinner starts at 7pm. 'Shaken, Not Stirred' is supported by Diamond sponsor Harvey Nash.

DECK THE STALLS It’s that time of year and the British International School is holding their annual Christmas BISzaar, which will take place on Dec. 1 from 9am until 2pm. Getting you into the true spirit of Christmas, the bazaar will treat guests to children singing carols, as well as 60-plus vendor stalls all showcasing festive items. Edible treats will be on offer at the cake stalls and a wide range of bites from the catering stalls. A raffle draw and fun activities for children will also be on offer. The BISzaar will be located at BIS, An Phu Secondary Campus, 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2

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‘TIS THE SEASON The SSIS (Saigon South International School) PTA Bazaar will take place on Nov. 17 from 9am until 3pm in the Phu My Hung school grounds to raise funds for local charities. The event will be a day of activities highlighting established Vietnamese and expat merchants with an estimated 100+ vendors and an extensive food court. The bazaar is a family event with a holiday atmosphere and lots of potential shopping. There will also be area for children full of a variety of age-appropriate activities. Contact Delma at dpark@ssis.edu.vn for more info

A TALE OF TWO CITIES Zan Doan is a Vietnam-born artist who, after 20 years in France, is returning with a body of work entitled Ho Chi Minh City and Paris at VinGallery from Nov. 24. Doan came back to Saigon for a short trip in 2007, and his experience as a painter enabled him to see the aesthetic of this city under a new guise. He is particularly concerned with the idea of space. He plays with this concept in the composition of his paintings, where we can see frantic crowds of people and motorbikes juxtaposed with calm space. VinGallery is located at 4 Le Van Mien, Q2

THE BEAT IS IN dOSe will be putting on a night of afrobeat, boogaloo, broken and nu jazz beats, bossa and more on Nov. 24. The two main acts of the night will be singer/songwriter and leader of Kokolo Afrobeat Orchestra and The Boogaloo Destoyers Ray Lugo, and DJ/producer and Jass & Milk head honcho Dusty. Supporting them will be Scrambled Edge and Crazy Monkey. The party starts from 9pm until 2am. Email dosegrooves@gmail.com for more info on venue

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Word of Mouth SLAINTE! If you were wondering where Sheridan’s has gone, don’t despair, everyone’s local Irish pub has moved to a new home. Full of buckets of Irish charm and a wide selection of food and drink, Sheridan’s, established in 1999, has picked up shop and hot footed it to 24 Ngo Van Nam, off Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Their doors are open with the same craic and they continue their tradition of regular live music. This time round they have a larger downstairs area including a stage tailor-made for bands, and a greater dining space on the first floor.

IN THE BAG Just in time for the holiday season, socially responsible laptop bag company Ethnotek, will be having a factory sale for Saigon residents from Nov. 30 until Dec. 15. The new collection features hand-loomed fabrics from the Cham Village near Phan Rang, as well as limited edition styles from Ghana, Guatemala, India and Indonesia. Learn more at www.ethnotekbags.com

THE MERGER ACG International School Vietnam and Australian International School have decided to merge the two schools. The merger will become effective as of Jul. 1 (once the necessary government approvals have been obtained) and will bring together a community of over 1,100 students and 100 teachers, at three campuses in District 2. Combining the two schools will provide a broader range of subjects at senior levels, and academic and sporting competition will be enhanced both within the school and with other schools in Ho Chi Minh City and the region. The diversity of the student population will also increase, with over 35 nationalities represented.

TALKING LADIES In support of the ladies in the Ho Chi Minh City community who work or cannot attend their weekly coffee mornings, ILV is now holding an evening event once a month. On Nov. 10 the International Ladies of Vietnam will meet in the evening for ManChef at the Intercontinental Asiana Hotel, for which an RSVP and payment is required. In addition to its evening programme of events, there is also an ILV Holiday Luncheon on Dec. 6 at the Equatorial Hotel, which again requires payment and reservation in advance. The member to member bazaar on Nov. 15 will take place from 10am until 1pm at the Sherwood Residence (127 Pasteur Street, Q3). For more info, go to www.ilvietnam.com

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HAPPY TEETH Happy second birthday to Smile Dental Center, who have a treat for patients to mark the anniversary. From Nov. 1 to Nov. 30, Smile Dental Center will give every patient who receives treatment a small gift to celebrate their two years in business. Smile Dental Center is located at 173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7.

RECYCLE FOR FREE WATER If you bring your used Monsoon Restaurant (1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1) water bottle back they will give you a free refill any time from 10am until 11pm until the end of November. An official co-sponsor of an art exhibition entitled RE-PLEASE at Silpakorn University (Bangkok, Thailand) in November 2012, Monsoon is supporting Thai artists who will create artwork by using the old artworks and printed materials from Silpakorn University’s Art Centre storage, a concept that the restaurant feels strongly about and is already doing themselves. For more info, go to www. facebook.com/monsoonsaigon

THAT’S A WRAP! It’s finally time to reveal the hard work of this year’s 48 Hour Film Festival and its competitors with screenings at Megastar in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City from Nov. 5 until Nov. 8 at 7pm. Screening of this year’s entrants will last two to three hours, including films from Hanoi shown first followed by the films made by entrants from Ho Chi Minh City. The airing of the documentaries will take place at Megastar (Level 7, Huong Vuong Plaza, 126 Huong Vuong, Q5). For more info, go to www.48hourfilm.com/hcmc and for further information about screening schedules go to www.facebook. com/48hourfilmVN

LUCKY Two months ago a flyer for City Pass’s lucky draw was printed in Word. The company is now happy to finally announce the winner. Susannah Sanchez was among all those who entered in the lucky draw by giving feedback to City Pass and has won two tickets to the Imperial Hotel in Hue. For more info, go to www. citypassguide.com

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In the Papers THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

VIETNAM OZONE LAYER ROTECTION An international fund has approved over US$9.7 million in aid for Vietnam’s efforts to decrease ozone-depleting substances. Most of the aid provided by the Multilateral Fund for the Implementation of the Montreal Protocol on Substances that Deplete the Ozone Layer will be assigned to 12 local foam producing businesses, Nguyen Khac Hieu, deputy chief of the Hydro-Meteorological and Climate Change Department, was quoted as saying in a Tuoi Tre newspaper report. Since Vietnam signed the Montreal Protocol in January 1994, the country has so far removed 500 billion tons of chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) often used in air conditioners and refrigerators, and 3.8 tons of halon, a fire-extinguishing agent. A national plan announced last year revealed that Vietnam would need more than US$30 million to remove 3.7 trillion tons of HCMFCs over the next 20 years.

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the talk WILDLIFE HUNTING LEGALISED IN VIETNAM Earlier this week, the ministry announced that it would begin issuing month-long licenses to hunt and breed 160 species of wildlife that were not red-listed. The decision will go into effect on Nov. 9. Species include the barking deer and several categories of snakes. Vu Thi Quyen, founding director of the NGO Education for Nature Vietnam, said she was concerned that allowing people to kill and exploit these non-endangered species would put other rare species at risk. In a press release issued on May 21 this year, international conservation groups, including the World Wildlife Fund, said that the sao la, one of the world’s rarest mammals, was often caught in wire snares set by hunters to catch other animals like stags, deer and wild boars. Worse still, many experts pointed out that many of the species eligible for commercial activities under the ministry’s circular were, in fact, dying out, including the barking deer and small-tooth palm civets.

PATIENTS GET INFECTIONS DURING STAY AT VIETNAMESE HOSPITALS Between five and eight percent of hospitalised patients get infections during their hospital stay, and the rate is higher at larger institutions. A report in Tuoi Tre quoted statistics released at a conference held by the Health Ministry as stating that four out of every 100 surgical patients saw their wounds infected while 20 to 30 percent of patients using ventilators acquired pneumonia. These were among the most common hospital-acquired infections, which also included blood and urinary tract infections, said Tran Quy, chairman of the Hanoi Infection Control Society. Although international studies found that health workers could help decrease the infection rate by 40 to 50 percent simply by washing their hands at the right times and in the correct manner, only 50 to 60 percent of health workers at major hospitals washed their hands, Muc said. Many doctors believed that as long as they used gloves, they did not need to wash their hands, and many were found using one pair of gloves repeatedly, he continued.

NO MORE FREE MUSIC DOWNLOADS

MASTERCHEF VIETNAM Local cooks have begun applying to become contestants on a version of the UK reality cooking series MasterChef that is being adapted in Vietnam. The winner will be awarded VND500 million in cash and an opportunity to publish a book about cooking. Luke Nguyen and Hoang Khai have signed on as judges and one more Vietnamese chef will be chosen soon. Luke Nguyen is an acclaimed Vietnamese-Australian chef who owns the famous Red Lantern chain of restaurants in Sydney. He is also the author of cookery books My Vietnam: Stories and Recipes and Secrets of the Red Lantern. Hoang Khai is the chairman and CEO of Khaisilk Corporation and owns restaurants Cham Charm, Au Manoir de Khai, Nam Phan and Ming Dynasty. MasterChef Vietnam will air on VTV3 channel every Friday night beginning Mar. 8, 2013.

Zing.vn has signed a streaming and downloading agreement with Universal Music Group, the world’s largest record company, amid criticism that the website was a hotbed of piracy. The deal will allow Vietnamese users of the website to listen and download songs from Universal Music for a fee, with access from outside the country to be blocked, according to Internet company VNG Corporation, the operator of Zing.vn. Some of the biggest Vietnamese sites, including Zing, have announced plans to charge users VND1,000 per song starting Nov. 1. Bloomberg reported in August that MVCorp, which helps the Recording Industry Association of Vietnam manage recording rights online, was in talks with Sony Corp. to make more music available for download. In June, Apple Inc. officially opened an iTunes Store in Vietnam, allowing local users to download international music and movie content for the first time.

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November CALENDAR TUE

MON

WED

THU AUSCHAM SUNDOWNERS. 6pm at Hog’s Breath

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Nov. 10 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

QUINTET NIGHT WITH SONG HONG CHAMBER. 8pm at the Conservatory of Music. Email sonviolin@yahoo.com for info THE ROCKY HORROR PICTURE SHOW. 8pm from Nov. 1 to Nov. 3 at Bon Mua Restaurant (189 A1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2)

ROMANTIC ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

RINCE. THE LITTLE PRINCE. ov. 5 & 8 7.30pm Nov. at Hoang Thai Thanh Theatre (36 Le Quy mail tickets@ Don, Q3). Email dragonflyvietnam.com for info

GBA MONTHLY MEETING at Intercontinental Asiana Saigon

LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Tue. at Lush

ME MELBOURNE CUP DAY. Free glass of Champagne on entry and free bottle of Champagne for Best Dressed. At Hog’s Breath 48HFP 48HF MEGASTAR SCREENINGS. 7pm from Nov. 5 to Nov. 8 at Megastar Hung Vuong

MUSIC QUIZ NIGHT @ La Fenetre Soleil every Tue.

FITNESS CLASSES @ The Boathouse, 8.30am every Mon., Wed. & Fri. Email info@cyril-and-you.com for info

NEW 2 COURSE SET LUNCH for VND185,000. From Mon. to Fri. at Hog’s Breath

STUDIO/RESIDENCE PROGRAM. From Oct. 18 to Apr. 18 at San Art. Visit www.san-art.org for info

THE TA LAI MOUNTAIN BIKE CHALLENGE. Nov. 13 & 14, email race@vietadventure. vn for info

WTF MONDAY. 7pm every Mon. at Sin Lounge

ROOTS. 9pm every Tue. at Blanchy’s Tash

ROCK & MOVIE NIGHT. 5pm to 9pm every Mon. at Hard Rock Café

BLIND TEST. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Fenetre Soleil

TAPAS FIESTA & WINE through the night. 7.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

LADIES NIGHT. Free bottle for a group of 5 ladies. 9pm every Tue. at Lavish

SAIGON COMEDY NIGHTS. 9pm Nov. 19 & 20 at Hard Rock Café

LIVE ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Tue. at La Habana

HO CHI MINH AND PARIS. From Nov. 24 at VinGallery

SCIENCE FILM FESTIVAL 2012 IN VIETNAM. From Nov. 8 to Nov. 30, email thanhtam. nguyen@hanoi.goethe.org for info HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon to Fri. at Hog’s Breath ROMANTIC ACOUSTIC NIGHT. 8.30pm every Mon. at La Habana

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BBGV ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING 2012. Visit www.bbgv.org for info

DUTCH MAESTRO JAN STULEN. 8pm at the Opera House

MARGARITA MADNESS @ Khoi Thom, 7pm every Wed.

BOARD GAMES NIGHT. Every Thu. at Geisha

ART HOUSE CINEMA - ARMCHAIR ACTIVISM. 7.30pm at Snap Café

JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil

SALSA DANCING @ La Fenetre Soleil every Wed.

SBA MEETING @ Swiss Chalet (54 Pasteur, Q1), every 2nd Thu. of the month.

ITALIAN MOVIES @ Pendolasco, 7.15pm every other Wed.

LIVE ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Habana

PURE. 8pm every Wed. at Blanchy’s Tash

LIVE MUSIC WITH JURAM. 9pm every Wed. at Pacharan STEAK & ALE NIGHT for VND250,000+. Every Wed. at Hog’s Breath MODELS AND BOTTLES. 9pm every Wed. at Sin Lounge

ACOUSTIC LADY NIGHT. 8.30pm every Wed. at La Habana

WELCOME LUNCH for German newcomers at Pendolasco

VORACIOUS EMBRACE: THE HUMAN/ ANIMAL INTERFACE. Until Nov. 14 at San Art

DUTCH OPEN 2012 at Song Be Golf Resort. Email dutchopen@ dbav.org.vn for info

BREAKFAST EVERYDAY & WEEKEND BRUNCH with new menu. 8amat Hog’s Breath I AM HIP HOP @ Velvet, 9pm every Fri. HANDS. from Oct. 18 to Nov. 11 at Craig Thomas Gallery

SOUND ADVENTURES. 9pm at La Fenetre Soleil

SAT DJ MAQMAN. 9pm every Sat. at La Fenêtre Soleil

TROPICAL PARTY. 8pm at Buddha Bar YOUTH FLEA MARKET. 1pm to 10pm at the Youth Cultural House MIDNIGHT CIRCUS 3D DISCO. 6pm Nov. 2 & 3 at Q4 (72 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4)

DJ NIGHTS @ Xu, 10pm every Sat.

SUN BBGV FAMILY GUY FAWKES. 4pm at Snap Café

TALES OF CHEWING GUM, NOODLE SOUP, AND OTHER STORIES. Until Nov. 17 at Galerie Quynh HAPPY HOUR with house wine, beer and cocktail. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at Mekong Merchant

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm every day at Pacharan

COCKTAIL MASTER CLASS WITH RICHIE FAWCETT @ Koh Thai, every Sat. Call 091 233 9138 for booking

TRADITIONAL HANDICRAFT BAZAAR. 9.30am to 4pm at Renaissance Riverside

ILV’S MANCHEF at Intercontinental. Visit www.ilvietnam.com for info

A PAINTER’S JOURNEY. Nov. 10 to 15 at the Fine Art Museum

CANCHAM DARTS CHALLENGE. 1pm at RED. Email hcmc@canchamvietnam. org for info

HAPPY HOUR. 50% off every day from 4pm to 7pm at The Deck

ARTS FOR MOBILITY. 8pm at the Opera House

FREE SAUSAGE SIZZLE. Every Sun. at Hog’s Breath

SALSA CLASSES at 7.30pm and Jazz Night at 8.30pm. Every Thu. at La Habana

BALLET “KEP HAT DE”. 8pm from Nov. 10 to 18 at the Opera House

SSIS PTA BAZAAR. 9am to 3pm at the Phu My Hung school ground

RELAX ACOUSTIC. 8.30pm every Sun. at La Habana

JAZZ NIGHT WITH MARIEDEL. 8.30pm every Thu. at La Fenetre Soleil

PERONI FRIDAY’S @ Vino, 4pm to 7pm every Fri.

ST ANDREW’S BALL. 6.30pm at Park Hyatt. Email saigonstandrews@gmail. com for info

DAILY HAPPY HOUR. From 4pm to 8pm every day at Saigon Saigon Bar, offering two-for-one deal

ILV MEMBER-TO-MEMBER BAZAAR. 10am at Sherwood Residence

HOUSE SPIRITS for VND20,000. 5pm to 7pm every Fri. at Phatty’s

2012 VUNG TAU RUNNING FESTIVAL. Visit www.vietnamrunningfestival.com for info

SUNDAY PAELLAS & HAPPY HOUR. 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

22 WELCOMES BACK TO THE STAGE MARY BETH ANCHETA. 8pm until Feb. 28 at Park Hyatt

FRI

CANVAS & WINE. 6.30pm at VinGallery

SFBAY JAZZ – VIETNAM 2012 FRIENDSHIP TOUR. 8.30pm Nov. 21 at Hard Rock Café, 7pm Nov. 22 at Binh An Village

AIS - IB ART EXHIBITION. 6pm at Craig Thomas Gallery

2012 PWA VIETNAM GRAND SLAM. From Nov. 20 to Dec. 8 in Phan Thiet

THIRSTY THURSDAY NIGHT PUB QUIZ. 8pm every Thu. at Ruby Soho

EARLY BIRDS’ HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Sat. & 12pm to 8pm every Sun. at La Habana

SPICED UP LADIES NIGHT. 9pm every Thu. at Hard Rock Cafe

HAPPY HOUR. 5pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri at Hog’s Breath

OPTIMIST CLUB. 8pm every Thu. at Godmother Bar (129 Cong Quynh, Q1)

FRIDAY FIESTA. 9pm at La Habana

KINKY FRIDAYS. 9pm every Fri at Blanchy’s Tash EUROPEAN MUSIC FESTIVAL. 8pm at the Opera House. Call 3600 9587 for info HAPPY HOUR. 4pm to 7pm from Mon. to Fri. at MM Bistro Saigon

JAPANESE FILM FESTIVAL: COMEDY 2012. From Nov. 24 to Dec. 12 at Dong Da Cinema (890 Tran Hung Dao, Q5)

SAIGON CHARITY BAZAAR. 4pm to 8pm at the Deck

REGGAE SUNFEST. 1pm at 258 Club (258 Tran Hung Dao, Q1). Call Peter on 01249730818 for info SABADO NIGHT. 9pm every Sat. at La Habana MIDNIGHT XPRESS. 11pm every Sat. at Last Call (59 Dong Du, Q1)

MISS SUMMER’S NIGHT CREAM. 5.30pm Nov. 24 & 25 and Dec. 1 & 2 at Snap Café. Call 0907 954093 for info

THE 16TH ANNUAL TERRY FOX RUN at the Crescent Area. Call 3824 3754 for info

SCENE

Entering the libation scene with a roar is British pub Red Lion on 9A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (within the Ngo Van Nam courtyard). At the helm are several British blokes and a Frenchman, which will be sure to never make drinking here dull PHOTOS BY FRANCIS

OVER

DRINK UP

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

D2 GOES IRISH Giving An Phu a taste of the Irish spirit, McSorley’s opens up on 4 Thao Dien with free pints, snacks and a lot of craic

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Celebrating its freshman year in the city’s dining and nightlife scene, Chill put on a night of great food and music under the open sky

PHOTOS BY NAM QUAN

From superbikes and classic scooters to the only custom 6200cc Boss Hoss, all sorts of twowheelers were on display at the Kumho Link Scooter Motorbike Fest Vol 1

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NEW HEIGHTS Alto Heli Bar, located on Level 52 of the Bitexco Financial Tower, held a pre-opening party to showcase the stunning vista of the city from up on high

PHOTOS BY NAM QUAN

GET YOUR MOTOR RUNNING

Insider

MUSHROOMS WITH A MISSION / ENTER THE KING / BIG BEN

CHARITY CORNER

MUSHROOMS WITH A MISSION There have been many attempts at finding sustainable solutions for helping people climb out of poverty. But few have been as creative and as successful as the Project Renew mushroom farming initiative in Quang Tri. Words by Nick Ross. Photos provided by Project Renew

traddling either side of the former demilitarised zone (DMZ), the de facto border that nominally ran along the 17th parallel, as a province Quang Tri saw more suffering than most at the hands of the American war. Today, the province continues to struggle. While elsewhere in Vietnam much of the country prospers, here, large portions of the population live deep in the throes of poverty. And with so much UXO (unexploded ordinance) still contaminating the area, both old and young have lost limbs, lives and more. Although still in its pilot phase, one American-funded Livelihood Assistance Programme is providing a more unusual

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lifeline to families in the region. Like the institute that funds it, the non-profit Humpty Dumpty Institute (HDI), it’s a leftfield attempt at making a difference. Says HDI’s president, Ralph Cwerman: “One of our passions is to work on mine action, which among other things is assisting victims who have been injured or disabled by landmine explosion or accidents.” In practical terms this has led them to team up with Project Renew to start a mushroom growing project in the region. Through the provision of training combined with micro-loans, there are already 150 families involved. When the programme is in full operation it will equip 1,000 families

with the tools and expertise to become professional mushroom growers. “Our main goal here is to build a business,” explains Ralph, “a real, sustainable business. And also to give a way for the actual victims [of the UXO and the war] to play a role in the clean up of the mess in Quang Tri.”

Phenomenal Fungi But why mushrooms? Of all the projects that could be found to help create a sustainable livelihood for those in desperate need, it seems the most unlikely. Certainly, it’s not the kind of concept that would be expounded upon in your typical brainstorming session. Although still in its

early days, so far the programme has been an unmitigated success. Ralph’s response is remarkably succinct. First, is that it’s not actually that difficult to grow mushrooms — “it doesn’t take up a whole lot of land”. It’s not labour intensive, doesn’t require backbreaking work in the fields, and the physically impaired, as long as they are fully mobile, are able to farm the mushrooms themselves. Once the mushrooms have been hung, you quite literally only need to water them. Indeed, the project’s model farmer is Do Thien Dang. Losing both his lower limbs in 1980 after stepping on UXO while farming his rice field, one of the first farmers to join the programme, he has taken a lead. “He’s a movie star,” says Ralph. “He’s in every documentary made about the programme — a Taiwanese camera team recently filmed him for a whole day. We’ve been so impressed with him that we’ve found a little extra money and bought him a three-wheeled motorbike. So, for the first time he has real mobility.” Also, while the main beneficiaries of the project are people like Dang, victims of landmines and UXO, the programme has allowed Project Renew to also help single women who have households to look after but with no male support. By taking up mushroom farming they are able to earn much needed extra income, while still having the time to look after their children and keep the daily household responsibilities intact. Seasonally, also, the jigsaw fits together. The natural season for growing

mushrooms comes right in the middle of the rice farming seasons. So, locals in the area have the time to focus on cultivating mushrooms without affecting their ability to work the fields.

The Mushroom Capital of Vietnam Under the brand name Namus, at present the project is growing four different types of mushrooms: wood ear, shiitake, oyster and the expensive, medicinally valuable linghzi. Once harvested, Project Renew buys back

“Everyone laughed. Some people still laugh. But it’s much less. For the first time, the real mushroom growers in and around Vietnam — it’s a US$40 million business here — are starting to pay attention to what we’re doing” all the mushrooms the farmers can grow, paying slightly higher than the market price. This way, the farmers can guarantee the sale, and through a repayment system, the project can ensure that the farmers can repay their loans. “Ultimately our goal is to export the mushrooms,” says Ralph. “We’re not just there in volume yet — last season we grew 5 tonnes of wood ear — and we’re still only selling the mushrooms locally. But we will

soon be starting to sell them in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. We just need to increase our volume.” To become a real force in the market, though, Project Renew needs to create barriers between Namus mushrooms and any competitors. Thus, the goal is for these mushrooms to have full organic certification. “Right now there are three steps to get there,” says Ralph. “First you need Viet Gap certification, which allows us to sell in Vietnam. Then there’s Global Gap and after that there’s full organic certification.” It’s a difficult process. In some of the remote areas where the farmers live, it’s not easy to explain and enforce some of the activities they have to be responsible for in order to achieve and maintain the organic certification. But, there isn’t anyone else cultivating organic mushrooms in Vietnam right now. And the mushrooms have both a natural and powerful marketing tool — the story behind them. Also, any profits will be ploughed into a fund to remove landmines and UXO. “In my earliest speeches I would say that we wanted to turn Quang Tri into Vietnam’s mushroom capital,” recalls Ralph. “Everyone laughed. Some people still laugh. But it’s much less. For the first time, the real mushroom growers in and around Vietnam — it’s a US$40 million business here — are starting to pay attention to what we’re doing.” For more information on Mushrooms with a Mission, go to Project Renew’s website — www. landmines.org.vn.

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TALKING SHOP

ENTER THE KING After years of speculation and 12 months or so of plying their trade at Vietnam's airports, Burger King have passed through customs to open stores in the big city. We talk to the man at the helm, Tony Cricenti, CEO of franchisee Vietnam Food and Beverages. Interview by Nick Ross. Photo by Charles Barnes Why did you open your first stores at Tan Son Nhat and Danang airports rather than in the centre of the city? 20 million passengers pass through these airports every year. So, in terms of market exposure, it has been critical, critical to getting us seen, not just locally but internationally as well. It has also provided a better choice for passengers at the airport. What about the price point. Will prices be the same as in the airport or will they be cheaper? The price point is in line with the competitive landscape here. This is important in Vietnam because it is a very price sensitive market. So, we’re making sure that we’re adapting to the local economy. Despite the high entrance costs and the high quality of the imported products, our pricing is competitive. Where are you sourcing your ingredients from? What about the beef for the patties and the buns? Because we’re new to the market, most of the products are being imported from abroad through approved Burger King (BK) distributors. The beef, for example, is procured from Australia and the US — where we buy from depends on fluctuations in the dollar. However, we source ingredients like lettuce, tomato and onion locally. The buns, too. There’s one bakery [in Vietnam] who makes the bread for all the QSR (Quick Service Restaurant) brands. But this has to be approved by BK. At the moment, representatives from Burger King head office in Singapore are coming here every month to check that standards are kept up. Over time we hope to source more products and ingredients locally. How will you compete with fast food burger brands that are already established in Vietnam? Burger King is the largest brand in its category presently in Vietnam. So, at the moment we don’t have a competitor here and we don’t compare ourselves to any other brand in the market.

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What makes your product stand out from the rest of the market? Burger King is renowned for its flame-grilled burgers — for us, the cooking process is critical. This, the high quality of ingredients and the ability to make food to order. So, you’ve probably seen the Have it Your Way campaign. We try and emphasise that. But realistically it’s the flame grilling that differentiates us from the rest. What are your plans for expansion in the medium and long term? Extremely aggressive. This is important because in QSR you need to meet a critical mass. This affects brand awareness, overheads and operating costs.

"We will be opening 12 stores from now until the end of 2012 and in 2013 we will be continuing to expand aggressively" I can’t divulge too much information, but we will be opening 12 stores from now to the end of 2012, and in 2013 we will be continuing to expand agressively. One of the issues in the big cities is getting the right location. With rents sky-high for those prime locations in the centre of the city, how are you dealing with this issue? We’re having to be very strategic. Locations are important and yes rentals here are very competitive. When you’re building QSR brands you realise that you can sacrifice the cost of running a flagship store as long as you have a number of stores not in the really expensive locations. So, if you only have two stores in key locations, it’s going to be too costly. But if you have those two stores

and then another 100 elsewhere, the model works. It’s about economies of scale. McDonald's has been reportedly trying to get into Vietnam for years. How has Burger King succeeded where McDonald's has failed? I don’t know where you’ve got that idea from. You can’t say that McDonald’s have failed. We’re just the first one entering the market. There’s a lot of positives about being the first in. For us this is a big success, a big success for our business. I’m hearing they’re coming, but I’m not sure when. To be honest, we’re not concerned. We’re building. And we’re ready to grow and expand. There are many living here who are really happy that Burger King is opening up in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. There are many others who share a different viewpoint. What are your feelings on this? The different viewpoints are extremely important. And we accept this. We’re just happy that we can cater to those who are glad that we’re in Vietnam. If this makes people happy, then that’s fantastic. By bringing the likes of Burger King to Vietnam, are you spreading American popular culture to the rest of the world or is this merely a part of the globalisation process started in the 1980s that continues to this day? I think the term American culture is not correct. The world is becoming global and Vietnam is getting international brands, not just American. There’s the internet, people are more sophisticated, they know what they want, and it’s really important for us to be in this market. As a company we’re following all the stories of growth here. We’re also watching the entrance of other international brands. Altogether it brings up standards, creates opportunities and as an overall business model, helps the country work more effectively. It’s part of the overall development of Vietnam.

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BIG COVER STORY

BEN

Cho Ben Thanh is a living, breathing animal. Sat in the centre of the city it eats up tourists, spitting out money and more witty t-shirts than a Google brainstorming session. Chaotic, vibrant and with its own colourful history, this beast of a market is the product of 300 years of buying, selling and, of course, haggling. This month we approached the beast with caution, checked its teeth and ventured beyond the usual tour guide’s summation of this historic icon. But why exactly is ‘Big Ben’ so popular? Strategic location, perhaps? The answer isn’t as simple as that. As we discovered, opinions about the place are divided.

Many love what so many others hate about this hot, smelly labyrinth. As we discovered, this seemingly decrepit building houses hopes, dreams and even a millionaire or two. Then there are the vendors and let’s not forget the thousands upon thousands of tourists, who at one point in their journey through the city will inevitably stop off for a quick piece of lacquer ware, and leave with four bags full of things they probably didn’t want. The nature of the beast is not so easy to define, but at the end of a busy day’s work it is a heavily concentrated dose of people, stuff, food and life. All of which scream — sometimes loud and sometimes with a smile — the word ‘Vietnam’.

PHOTOS BY CHARLES BARNES AND FRANCIS

STORIES OF A MARKET

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MARKET WATCH

Michael Arnold finds out that the history and future of Ben Thanh Market is as tumultuous and uncertain as a day of shopping there

n architectural icon and the largest tourist trap ever constructed in this country, Ben Thanh Market remains a stubbornly, un-air-conditioned labyrinth of knick-knacks, fabrics, and endless racks of handbags. This claustrophobic Vietnamese bazaar, an inevitable destination for visitors to the city, is what has become of the structure that was grandly opened on Mar. 28, 1914 to parades, fireworks displays, and a crowd of 100,000 attendees who partied for three days to celebrate. Few international visitors to the market today are aware that its history actually extends far back beyond the earliest days of the city we now know as Ho Chi Minh City. Nor are they aware that its name has been a symbol of local prosperity and perseverance that has held enormous resonance here for four centuries. Cho Ben Thanh, which simply means ‘the market at the city’s port’, is perhaps the region’s most successful and longest-lasting brand name. It started right back in the early 17th century when this city, then known as Prey Nokor, was a critical Khmer outpost in decline. At the time the Vietnamese

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influence in the area was only just starting to gather strength. One Viet settlement in the area, Quy, opened a small market to instant success, rapidly becoming the most profitable and prosperous around. This was the original Ben Thanh, and its reputation survived the destruction of Quy in 1835 following the Le Van Khoi Rebellion. When the city was rebuilt as Gia Dinh the following year, Ben Thanh Market was restored on its original site — gradually recovering its wealth and stream of patrons. By then, Ben Thanh was not only a land market, but a floating market as well. Located opposite what is now the backside of the city zoo and spilling out over the banks of Ben Nghe River, it sprawled along and across the waterways, and was perhaps the jewel of the new city. In 1859, the French colonists decided they liked it so much that after they’d burnt it to the ground, along with everything else in the city, they rebuilt it yet again, giving it a French name that nobody used. To their credit, they situated the market in a superior location near the top of what is now Nguyen Hue — then a small channel

with significant water traffic. The river was eventually filled in and became the street it is today, but this only added to the market’s popularity. Right next to the Rue de Canton, it swarmed with wealthy Chinese clientele, as well as Indians and local Vietnamese — and fewer French people.

BEN THANH MARKET 3.0

It eventually had to be destroyed in 1911 — the 18th century technology it had been built with hadn’t aged well — and it was reconstructed more or less in its current form over an old pond, where it stands today. The only remaining stretch of the original French market still runs along Ton That Dam off Ham Nghi, now called the ‘Old Market’ — currently selling mostly imported liquor, candy, rare brands of stale cereal and baking ingredients. Ben Thanh Market 3.0 is a classic piece of showy French colonial architecture. While both it and its predecessor recall the parallel prismatic triangular rows of the original Vietnamese structure, its pale wash of colour and characteristic framework, graceful arches, and

ostentatious clock tower were all designed to highlight French supremacy in terms of size, aesthetics and materials. Built by Brossard et Mopin Construction, and based on a blueprint that incorporated not only the market itself but also several surrounding streets, Ben Thanh Market (as it was stubbornly referred to by almost everyone) prospered under French management, although its patrons were still predominantly Asian. It was precisely the arrogance in design that irritated the downtrodden Vietnamese, and the market was occasionally the focus of anti-French sentiment. On the rather inauspicious date of Sep. 11, 1951, the building was set on fire by students demonstrating against French rule. Since the era of Vietnamese government, there has at times been serious talk of tearing down the old colonial relic and replacing it with a structure of pure Vietnamese design. In 1970, a contest was even held to this end, which was won by a Vietnamese architect named Huynh Kim Mang, whose vision for a new Ben Thanh Market in the shape of a traditional Vietnamese bronze

drum was so ambitious that the expense of building it would have been ruinous for the local administration. Having already — rather embarrassingly — given first prize to an unaffordable design, the project was indefinitely shelved. For whatever reason, the boxy clock tower and central gates in each wall eventually endeared themselves to the Vietnamese public, and when it was reconstructed in 1985 under Hoang Nhu Tan, the general structure and shape of the market were retained and merely improved upon with modern construction techniques. All subsequent plans to build a new Ben Thanh Market have been silenced by popular opinion.

GOING UNDERGROUND

For now, the market itself is apparently safe, although it is about to bear witness to a radical reshaping of its immediate surroundings. The last time this happened was when it lost its neighbouring Saigon Railway Station to the September 23rd Park that runs along Pham Ngu Lao today. In this instance, the two billion dollar Metro Line 1 project, which should be operational in 2018, will see commuters descending beneath

the traffic circle at the Ben Thanh Market forecourt and shooting away along the subway towards Suoi Tien Park. By that time, Ben Thanh Market will be competing with a modern shopping mall that will form part of a 45,000sqm complex underground. Both of these will be completely overshadowed by Bitexco’s next architectural behemoth, ONE Ho Chi Minh City — a multi-purpose twin tower complex that will preside over the transport hub to replace the tired bus station that currently stands on the site. Ground was broken on the project last April, and it should have people living, working, and shopping there before 2016. The two projects combined are likely to reassert the area around Ben Thanh Market as the true centre of the city, and will probably have a profound impact on the development of the Saigon area for the next century. Dwarfed as it may be in the name of progress, we can expect Ben Thanh Market to retain its dignified old shell, an icon to celebrate the glory of the lost French Empire into the centuries ahead. One only hopes that future generations will see the wisdom of installing some form of air conditioning — if that’s not too much to ask.

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UNTOLD STORIES

At Saigon’s most famous cho, everyone is busy plying their trade and time is money. So, getting them to stop and tell us their life story wasn’t easy, but our hard-nosed negotiator James Allen was able to wrestle it out from a few unlikely characters. Photos by Charles Barnes THE POTENTIAL MILLIONAIRE Phung Kieu Shop Kieu, 58, Owner You may have noticed a certain fire in the eyes of the sellers and hawkers in and among the stalls and pathways, a fire that is fueled day in day out by this small yet formidable woman. It’s been 30 years behind the glass boxes of noodles, meat and assorted ingredients that Kieu knows her way around, a profession passed down from her parents, and one she will one day pass on. Kieu and her husband, a quiet man we meet later on with the word ‘Chief’ inscribed on his ID, own this piece of the market. Small and cluttered, Kieu admits that if it was sold today it could fetch somewhere in the region of VND5 billion. With the continuous foot traffic and the attention of hundreds of vendors in the market, the price is easy to believe. She buys all of her produce here, which she admits is certainly more expensive than in other markets around the city, but “the quality is guaranteed”. The phrase rolls off her tongue like melted butter. She may have said that before.

THE WATCHER Tam, 49, Security Guard His cap dead straight, eyes roving backwards and forwards over our camera equipment, Tam greeted us warmly, not in the least bit surprised in our interest in his stories; after all, he’s pretty much seen it all in his 12 years at the market, even the odd bit of criminal witchcraft. When he first arrived over a decade ago at his post guarding one of the biggest tourist spots in Saigon, he was “completely confused… I’m used to it now, though,” he says with a smile. Then explains how much he has seen the market develop over the years. “They rebuilt the roof, it wasn’t like that when I started.” The crime rate must be high, we ask. Apparently, not as bad as you’d think. According to Tam, most of the snatching goes on outside the market, thieves know better than to steal under the watchful eyes of the Ben Thanh CCTV system, and Tam of course. As well as high-speed chases, Tam recalls one of the most bizarre experiences of his career. The day a small group of tourists from Iraq entered the market and began to, as Tam remembers, “put charms on some of the vendors, cursing them, rendering them numb and forcing them to hand over all of their money”. The mysterious group was quickly apprehended by security officials aided by Tam who, luckily, resisted their magic and who continues to guard the doors to the historic cho for many more years to come.

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SON OF SPICE Anh Hai, Basis Curry India Shop 867 — 875 — 877 — 915 — 917 — 919 Son, Manager, 37 Surrounded by jars and bags filled with every type of herb and spice imaginable, Son couldn’t look more at home behind the counter covered in cinnamon bark. Three generations of his family have sat in the seat he now occupies, starting with his India-born grandparents Mohammed and Fatima, permanently move their growing family to Vietnam over 40 years ago. Soon after, their daughter met Son’s father, a Chinese national and together they passed the reins to the mildmannered guy in front of us, his right hand resting on a fat bag of bright turmeric, his left thumbing a receipt. He might not have picked up any Hindi or Chinese despite his parents, but the guy knows his spice, and it comes as no surprise that his expert eye and his history of importing some of the most sought after ingredients in the city is attracting some heavy hitters on the five-star international hotel and restaurant scene. Although shy, he enthusiastically thrusts his most expensive Vietnamese-grown spice thao qua or black cardamom as we know it, under our noses. At VND300,000 per kilo the stuff smells unbelievable until he spills a handful of green cardamom pods from India into our hands. The taste of chai fills our mouths, a snatch at VND2 million per kilo. Exotic labels surround his head, many we’ve never heard of, some as pedestrian as pho stock powder. And as Son gets up to serve a waiting customer, we prod our way around the stacks of bright parcels of flavour and our hands soon reek of the very spice that Son’s business is built on.

THE ELDER Kieu, 80, Lottery ticket seller Kieu’s weather beaten face is almost hidden from sight as she shuffles her way around the periphery of the market. Her curved spine forces her to bend almost in half in order to make her way to and fro. We find her taking a much needed break, sat outside the east entrance. She has that air of someone who has seen it all, as well as looking impossibly old but still alive. She sits with a fellow ticket seller against the market wall, a Catholic saint on a chain hanging against her worn jumper. Apart from the tickets she grasps in her right hand, she has a tattered plastic bag that seems to contain most of her possessions, as well as a purse where she stores the VND60,000 to VND120,000 she might make in a day if she covers a lot of space - if she can manage it, that is. People gather to watch our conversation. The sight of us crouched down discussing bus times and family must seem fairly random. There is a real sense, though, that these observers are also keeping a protective eye out for Kieu. After her detainment for begging 20 years ago, she has sold lottery tickets ever since, and is dropped off every day by a 7am bus in District 1 to go about her business. Representing a different, poorer aspect to Ben Thanh Market, the octogenarian lives with her youngest daughter in a train station a few districts over. Despite her obvious poor health and the lined face, the strength of the woman radiates off her with every answer she chooses to give us. What will she do after we leave? The 4.30pm bus will take her home to her daughter, her eldest son having left for Hanoi many years before. What makes her happy? Caught off guard, or sensing an attentive audience, she starts to cry. It essentially boils down to paying for her medication, everything else is just difficult. And like so many other elderly, disabled and homeless people drawn to Benh Thanh Market’s spirit of trade, she returns every day, looking to siphon off just a little bit of the vast amounts of cash that seems to be infused in the very air surrounding this vast tourist trap. And good luck to her, she’s a wily old bird.

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DEAL OR NO DEAL

For some it’s a battle of wits. For others, it’s pure torture. No matter how you look at it, bargaining in Vietnam is a way of life, and Ben Thanh Market is the perfect place to hone your negotiating skills. Words by James Pham

or the uninitiated, a walk down the narrow aisles of Ben Thanh Market becomes a gauntlet of grabby hands and some variation of “You buy?” called out in dozens of languages. Some relish the challenge. For others, it’s a turnoff. Matt and Jennifer, first-time visitors to Vietnam from the UK, explain the sensation this way. “We’re not from a bargaining culture. For us, it’s not a matter of ‘if’ you’re going to get ripped off, but simply of ‘by how much’. The key is you just have to have a sense of humour about it. Embrace it and try to get to know each other. It’s not all bad. There was once this gorgeous Kashmiri silk rug in Nepal which [we] got for half the asking price, but only after three days of hard negotiating.” Heather, visiting from China, says, “I think the sellers in Vietnam are less aggressive than in China. At least there’s some back and forth. In China, they’ll turn their back and act like they’re mad at you.” John, a foreign resident living in Vietnam, adds, “As a single foreign man, I have the sinking feeling I’m being overcharged for everything, from produce to clothing.” A cluster of girls whose side-by-side stalls sell almost identical t-shirts and polos on the periphery of the market provide insight from the seller’s point of view. “It’s not true that we charge different prices for men and women, or even for foreigners,” says one. “People nowadays are master bargainers. They often want us to sell something for less than we paid for it ourselves. But our margins are slim, maybe 10 to 15 percent only.” “Tourists have guidebooks and get advice from their hotels so they know to bargain,” explains Uyen, who has owned her eclectic souvenir shop near the food area for more than a dozen years. “Sometimes friends and relatives of Viet Kieu will tag along and bargain even harder. But last month, market management implemented a policy forcing all sellers to wear ID badges and for prices to be clearly marked. So, now there’s very little room for bargaining. Instead, sometimes I’ll throw in a small gift. Years ago, a foreigner told me, ‘Eat a little and you’ll eat all the time. Eat a lot and you’ll only eat once in a while’. I’ve tried to remember that.”

GRABBY HANDS

While success or failure in bargaining can hinge on tiny amounts of money, there is a certain etiquette to the art of the deal. What’s grabby to those from cultures not used to physical contact may be an attempt at hospitality for others. “Tourists should try to understand Vietnamese culture. Sometimes a touch is our way of being friendly,” says Thu, one of the t-shirt selling girls. Uyen adds another pet peeve. “Often Chinese tour groups will agree to a price and wait for me to wrap up the goods,” she says. “Then they’ll ask for a discount or else they won’t buy.” Another one of the

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polo girls sighs as an Indonesian couple sort through a pile of shirts only to leave when they hear the asking price. “I hate it when people ask prices and then walk away. I’d rather they at least counter-offer so that we could have a discussion. Otherwise, it’s unlucky.” Luck (or superstition) seems to play an integral role in the life of a seller. “If the first person who comes to your stall buys something for a fair price, that means you’re going to have a good selling day,” another polo girl chimes in. For those seeking divine assistance, a visit to the hidden market god is in order. Squirreled away through a dark, unmarked doorway near the South Gate and up two flights of rickety metal stairs is a room dedicated to the market gods, including the God of Money, the God of the Soil, and a surprisingly small, almost simian-like god, unique to Ben Thanh Market. “Sellers can come and pray for good luck or to burn incense,” says Tuan, one of the unofficial caretakers. “Some people leave flowers and fruit. Others eat the fruit. People can come and go. The sellers requested that this room remain unchanged throughout all the renovations of the market.”

THE SCAM GAME

As with any place frequented by tourists, scams abound. Reports of taxis fleecing visitors to the tune of ten times or more the meter rate for short trips are common. Uyen shares some others. “There used to be touts standing outside the market, intercepting large groups, pretending to be helpful locals. They’d bargain for the tourists, jacking up our price and keeping the difference. But luckily, the authorities have caught on and have prevented them from entering the market. Another scam is the food scam. With products, you can give back items that are too expensive. But sometimes, the sellers will wait until after you’ve eaten to demand a high price.” Xuan, a Vietnamese housewife shares some of her own tips. “If visiting a stall for the first time, never let the seller choose produce for you. Also, a 500ml bottle of water weighs half a kilo. I always bring one with me to check the scales.” The polo girls throw in another. “Shop early in the morning or as the market is closing. Sellers will usually want a fast sale so will give good prices. And try to deal with the owner, not the workers. If we offer prices that are too low, our boss gets mad.” John adds: “When I first got to Vietnam, I had a Vietnamese friend take me around Ben Thanh to introduce me to people she bought from. After that, they always gave me fair prices.” While bargaining is a sport for some and a livelihood for others, the truism remains: a good shopper is an informed shopper. So feel free to jump into the fray with a smile and a 500ml bottle of water.

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YOU BUY?! YOU BUY?!

In true wicked Word style, we threw three unsuspecting civilians into one of the most intimidating and intimate sales competitions imaginable. Each comes from different walks of life and has been in Vietnam for varying lengths of time with levels of Vietnamese proficiency ranging from native to abysmal.

With VND400,000 and a shopping list in their hands they dived right in and risked the intense eye contact, claustrophobic gangways and inappropriate touching. They returned alive and in relatively good shape, some battles one, some lost. Read on to find out who took on the beast and won…

FITZ-GERALD ANDREANI

24, Vietnamese, Office Worker Born and raised in Saigon Set of four table mats: VND50,000 Set of six pairs of chopsticks: VND50,000 1 pomelo: VND35,000 1 pair of fake plastic Ray-Ban: VND50,000 150g Robusta coffee: VND30,000 Total: VND215,000 How many times did you get lost? Many times! I found a place that had very cheap Robusta coffee then I ran outside to meet the photographer and I couldn't find it again. How did you find the sellers? They are very friendly and enthusiastic at first, but if you don't buy anything they become very angry and talk behind your back. How low did you get them to go? For the fake Raybans, the asking price was VND450,000 but I bought them for VND50,000

35, French, Football Coach Resident for 19 months

Do you feel you were treated with respect? Yes, but only if I bought their goods.

Set of four table mats: VND50,000 Set of six chopsticks: VND33,000 1 pomelo: VND30,000 1 pair of fake plastic Ray-Ban: VND50,000 150g Robusta coffee: VND60,000

Do you feel ripped off at any point? Yes, the pomelo was much more expensive compared to other markets.

Total: VND223,000 How would you rate the safety while inside the market? Once, I don’t know if I was being paranoid or not, but I had the impression that an old woman was following me very closely in order to steal something out of one of my pockets. In any case she didn’t get the chance. How low did they go? For the Raybans, the price started at VND200,000 and we finished at VND50,000. They start really high and essentially they will only sell at a price that they are happy with, regardless of all the talk. They always get you in the end. How did you find the sellers? The people are nice enough, but when you begin to discuss buying something they change completely. It’s like you are family, you become their friend. You might even get a smile. Is the market representative of Vietnam? For me, if the market was to truly represent Ho Chi Minh City it would have to have motorbikes zooming through it. I would prefer to see more artists and people selling things they have made themselves. Did you get touched a lot? No, no one touched me or grabbed my arm. I think they’re scared of guys with beards and not of little blonde tourists.

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PHUC

VICTOR NUCHE 17, Mexican, Student Resident for 1 year Set of four table mats: VND55,000 Set of six chopsticks: VND60,000 1 pomelo: VND20,000 1 pair of fake plastic Ray-Ban:VND90,000 150g Robusta coffee: VND60,000 Total: VND285,000 Have you been to the market before? I reckon I go at least once every two months to buy presents for my family in Mexico. How did you find the cleanliness of the place? It really depends on which zone you’re walking in. The meat and food zones are quite messy and dirty because of all the products they have, but the coffee corridor smells delicious. I love it! How was communication with the sales people? They spoke pretty good English, and if they didn’t know what I meant I could always mime, make noises and point at things! Do you think you were ripped off at any point? Only for the sunglasses that cost VND90,000. Does the market reflect the city? Yes, because it’s one of the most famous places in Saigon and you can learn a lot about how great Vietnamese culture is. Even if you don’t buy all of the souvenirs and food, you can meet new people.

* This contest was set up to show that race, age and language does affect the pricing war between sellers and customers, however Ben Thanh Market has won and proved us wrong. As you can see from the results, the differences in prices are marginal and everyone gets the same tough sales pitch. Only brute perseverance wins through.

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Illustration by Claire Driscoll

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DESTINATION

THE MANY SHADES OF HUE While Hanoi and Saigon look towards the future, the central city of Hue still finds itself frozen in its imperial past. Words by Kim Megson. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

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warm and breezy morning on the banks of the Perfume River —groups of friends sit at the many plastic tables dotted along the tree-lined street, chatting quietly together and drinking tall, icy glasses of coffee. Lottery ticket sellers wander through, gently encouraging them to try their luck. On the water a dragon boat rolls past, and swan boats bob together on the horizon. In the distance the Vietnamese flag rolls in the wind, marking the entrance to the city’s ancient citadel. Welcome to Hue, a city that at times is almost too idyllic to be true. Not even the horns of the motorbikes, the shouts of the market sellers, or the regular boozy cries of “mot, hai, ba dzo!” can interrupt the peaceful nature of this city, a place that many visitors and residents of Vietnam have yet to truly discover. The city has a beauty that it retains even among the traffic jams and often messy streets. It looks resplendent in the sun, and poetic in the rain. The famous Trang Tien Bridge (designed by a certain Gustave Eiffel) crosses the river, illuminated at night by changing fluorescent lights. It should look lurid, but here the result is somehow magical.

Hue is in many ways a microcosm of all that is special about today’s Vietnam. It has a rich history and culture, welcoming people, amazing food and stunning landscapes. As the former imperial capital and home of the Nguyen Dynasty, there is the feeling of national pride and a deep-rooted sense of the past — Hue is both geographically and metaphorically the heart of the country. Shops and cafes are surrounded by the crumbing citadel walls that have guarded the city through its tumultuous and often violent history.

High on Caffeine An altogether different kind of place to Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, or even nearby Danang, here, tradition and history take precedence over business and modernisation, and life moves at a different pace to the rest of this fast-developing country. Hue is happy to take things slowly. Very slowly. There is little investment outside of the hospitality sector, and new construction is heavily restricted. In many ways this city exists in a bubble. Taking time to relax is highly valued,

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and regular coffee breaks are almost compulsory, with many local people loving nothing more than going for a ca phe sua to start the day. And then again for lunch. And then after work. The city runs on caffeine, perhaps accounting for the illusion that time moves unusually slowly. One local proverb translates as, ‘Discover Hue, the land of happiness where Heaven and Earth meet, time slows down, and life is longer.’ Such is the value of Hue’s history; it has yet to embrace the future and many would like it to remain the same forever. This is great for some, but difficult for the younger generation who have a complex relationship with their home. Torn between the comforts of the peaceful lifestyle but frustrated by the lack of development, they are increasingly tempted by the bright lights of Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.

"Such is the value of Hue’s history; it has yet to embrace the future and many would like it to remain the same forever" By far Hue’s biggest economy is tourism, but currently this sector remains a little underdeveloped despite its moneymaking potential. Roads remain defiantly too narrow for the growing number of cars and the airport is a 45-minute country drive from the centre. As a result it is something of an unknown quantity to many visitors, who rarely linger in the city for long. Hue has also been underestimated by travel writers who haven’t fully done their homework, and looked down on by many people in other cities for being boring. This is a shame, as travellers will find plenty to see and do if they look under the surface and enjoy the unique way of life here. There are many sights to see in Hue, which continues to inspire poets, artists and romantics with its particular charms. This is a fascinating place for those with an interest

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EATING AND DRINKING LIEN HOA 3 Le Quy Don A recent listing in the Lonely Planet means that this well regarded vegetarian restaurant, located next door to a pagoda, has become increasingly popular. Luckily it has retained its authentic Hue atmosphere, and, more importantly, it’s delicious and inexpensive meals. An essential visit. BUN BO HUE Along Nguyen Du It’s only open for two hours every day (4pm to 6pm) but that should be more than enough time to grab a delicious dish of this Hue speciality and favourite of the emperors — a spicy beef noodle dish with lemongrass. COM CHI TEO 59 Hai Ba Trung This is a great place if you are searching for a genuine Hue lunch. Join the crowds who flock here for the best pork in the city. LA BOULANGERIE FRANÇAISE 46 Nguyen Tri Phuong This bustling bakery is located in the centre of the city and

provides delicious pastries, cakes and ice cream! The bakers are all disadvantaged young adults who are being trained to find work in the industry. GREATIO CORNER 97 Truong Chinh This trendy new hangout is the only place in Hue where you can get milkshakes and ice blended drinks. Teenagers flock to gossip around the indoor cherry blossom tree. There is even a resident puppy. What more could you want? CAFE MUOI 10 Nguyen Luong Bang This coffee shop is famous for serving the drink of its name — salty coffee. Inspired by a charming old story about a boy who puts salt instead of sugar in his coffee by mistake on a nervous date, visitors can try the resulting combination. Some love it, others hate it, all should try it. THE TEA HOUSE 100 Kim Long A delightfully traditional tea house. Enjoy a lotus seed snack and sip one of the teas from the extraordinary menu. The tra cam (orange tea) is highly recommended.

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ACCOMMODATION Hue has the full range of accommodation options these days starting at the top with the art deco La Residence (www. la-residence-hue.com) and the newly opened Banyan Tree, an all pool-villa resort just south in Lang Co (www.banyantree.com). On the budget end you will find the eternally popular Hue Backpacker’s Hostel (www. vietnambackpackerhostels.com) and a range of cheap guesthouses in and around the Pham Ngu Lao area. The boutique section is also well taken care of, although check out Villa Hue (www.villahue.com) with it’s quite stunning façade. Doubling up as a food and beverage training centre for students from Hue Tourism College, a stay here also means providing the opportunity for this country’s youth to get some wellneeded, on-the-job experience.

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in Vietnam, as the tombs and temples and palaces and pagodas show what life was like before our lifetimes. Visitors can learn, too, about more recent history. The country’s most eminent singer and songwriter Trinh Cong Son was born in Hue and a young Ho Chi Minh went to school here. The American War has also left its mark with bullet holes from the 1968 Tet Offensive still embedded in some of the city walls.

Imperial Taste And then there is the cuisine, justifiably renowned for being the best in Vietnam. The tapas-style portions are often small, spicy and absolutely delicious — a long term result of the fussy Nguyen emperors. Street food specialities leave foodies longingly aching to return and good vegetarian food is abundant due to the large Buddhist population. International taste buds are catered for with Indian, Korean, Mexican, French, Italian and Japanese restaurants to choose from. And once you’re finished in the city, there is still plenty to explore as Hue is the

gateway to many of central Vietnam’s most beautiful sites. It is just a few hours away from the beaches of Hoi An, the glorious Danang bay and the incredible coastal views of the Hai Van Pass. Even closer are the relaxing hot springs of My An, the natural wonder of Bach Ma National Park, and the crystal clear waters of the Elephant springs. Venture inland and you will come to ethnic minority villages in the A Luoi area and famous battle sites like Hamburger Hill. Head north and you hit the DMZ and the devastation of the next province up, Quang Tri. There is even a mine museum there now. All this means that now is the time to visit Hue and discover all it has to offer. However reluctantly, it is beginning to adapt to make life easier for tourists. There are more hotels and restaurants than ever before and visitors can enjoy a night out in the backpacker land of Pham Ngu Lao (yes, same name as in Saigon) where the number of modern bars and clubs is growing. It is now common to see cars on the roads of Hue, unthinkable even just a couple of years ago, and the number of foreigners coming is increasing,

despite the international airport not hosting an international flight in years. There are also indicators that things are changing with social attitudes, which have been traditionally conservative. Hue is becoming more inclusive and accepting, with new possibilities opening in the fields of art, music and fashion. Hue’s hip hop scene is unpredictably flourishing, with public battles and performances growing in popularity. Groups of young dancers have started organising and coordinating mass flash mobs at weekends. Graffiti artists are being employed to decorate coffee shops and bars as they become trendier. Fashion trends are finally catching up. All of this makes Hue something of an open book as it looks ahead to the near future. The contrasts between old and new are widening, with some fighting for progress and others fighting to make sure the bubble doesn’t burst just yet. The only certainty is that in a country like no other, Hue will remain a city like no other. It has rightfully taken its place at the idyllic heart of Vietnam.

WHERE TO G O THE CITADEL It goes without saying that when in Hue a visit to the citadel is necessary. Explore the north side of the city and enter the forbidden palace for a look back into the past. The citadel is particularly atmospheric in the evenings or early morning. Give yourself plenty of time to explore, take a good book and relax amongst the imperial ruins. TU DUC TOMB If you have to choose just one tomb to visit in Hue, then Tu Duc is your best option. It boasts serene lakes and forests, ancient statues and well maintained traditional buildings where the longestserving emperor spent his days in luxury. THIÊN MU PAGODA AND THE TEMPLE OF LITERATURE Enjoy a boat journey from Tu Duc tomb to Thien

Mu, the iconic symbol of Hue. After that a visit to the nearby Temple of Literature is recommended, with its simple grace a perfect tonic after the crowded pagoda. THANH TOAN BRIDGE Cycle past gloriously green rice fields and through the sleepy countryside until you reach the Japanese footbridge in Thanh Toan village on the outskirts of Hue. The ride there only takes 30 minutes or so and provides a perfect illustration of rural life and is picturesque diversion. THE TEMPLE OF HUYEN TRAN Travel 7km out of Hue, through lush pine forests to the foot of the Ngu Phong mountain. Visit the temple of Princess Huyen Tran before climbing to the summit and ringing the 1.6 ton copper bell of peace. Don’t forget to make a wish!

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prefer it. We have an English website and Vietnamese site. Why do you think the online food delivery service has been such a massive hit in Saigon? Raphael: When we came here five months ago there were already a few players. We found that since we set up, the business has grown fast and a number of new competitors have joined up. We found on the operation side it was quite easy to set up this kind of business in Vietnam, as everyone has a motorbike and most restaurants do deliveries. The western market is big at the moment but the end goal is the Vietnamese market, they love treats.

Clockwise from left: Derek, Raphael, Jochem & Anders

Jochem: In Vietnam, locals and expats like convenience and online ordering make their lives easier and there is a lot of choice also. I think there are around eight websites now.

BUSINESS

Sit Down and Deliver With the online food delivery business booming in Saigon, we decided it was time to get the lowdown from the big players. Derek Milroy chairs a debate with sparks flying as Hungry Panda managing director Raphael Cohen of France, Eat. vn founder Anders Palm (Sweden) and Dutchman Jochem Lisser of VietnamMM fight it out for the right to be called number one. Photo by Francis Is this the first time you’ve all met before? How does it feel to meet your competitors face-to-face? Raphael: I don’t have any problem meeting these guys. Anders: With business you cannot focus on competing and have to concentrate on your customers. Jochem: I met Anders for first time last year.

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I am not okay with all the competitors but the ones at the table are okay, yes. Explain the basics of your business. Anders: We run eat.vn which focuses on the expat market and chonmon.vn which caters for local people and is in Vietnamese. So we can separate the segments a bit and it gives our customers an option. Customers go to the website and write in their location and a list of

Anders: It was something that was really missing here, the convenience and we both saw it, Jochem and I, at pretty much the same time. We set up our first restaurant in 2010 but it took us some time to set up this website. In the meantime, Jochem set one up and we were shocked but it turned out quite well as both of us have created the market. It makes it easier that there were two of us doing it instead of just one.

restaurants comes up and they choose their meal and which restaurant to use. They click their meal on the cart and finish their shopping. Jochem: Our operation is basically the same, choose your restaurant and meal and the restaurant delivers to the customer. Raphael: We do offer the same service as these two guys but we also give the option of phone orders because some people

Are you responsible for deliveries arriving on time and quality of food? Raphael: Yes. We agree the deal with the restaurant, time and districts but our goal is to have perfect service every time. Anders: Some restaurants deliver themselves but we also have a team of drivers. If we have drivers we can control delivery times. We are the only one of the three big players who offers our own drivers. Jochem: The restaurant does the deliveries and food but we work hard with them to make sure it is delivered on time. Every restaurant is welcome on our site but they have to live up to certain standards. Does this service put customers at ease, with orders placed online instead of on the phone? Raphael: In Vietnam prices go up all the time at restaurants, so menus are out of date very quickly but online they are updated and you will always have the correct price. We also accept some calls over the phone. Anders: Yes that is very important over

here with the address system which can be interpreted differently. Having orders written down is more trustworthy.

Vietnam. Ask them how they are doing. I disagree that Raphael’s firm is the biggest and fastest growing.

Jochem: The online service means your house isn’t cluttered up with 300 menus and it is very convenient. You can find anything you want online. Especially for expats who can’t pronounce their own street names.

Jochem: We are the biggest in Vietnam; you should look at yourself not the competition.

What makes your website better that the other guys’?

Anders: We are in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City but VC Corporation, our mother company, has offices all over Vietnam. If we want we can expand around Vietnam.

Raphael: We have the most restaurants in Vietnam. We have 320 in Hanoi and HCMC and our company is in eight different countries, and we have regional expertise. Anders: We are the only one that offers a loyalty system. Customers earn loyalty points and discounts and earn free meals. Jochem: Our website is very convenient and process is clear. We make it easy for people to order food. Is there enough space in this city for 3 online food delivery sites? Raphael: Three is okay but for more and more we are not sure. A lot of small players are joining the market but I don’t know how long they will last. The firms with the most loyal customers and best service will survive. Anders: We are in here for the long-term. We are part of the largest e-commerce company in Vietnam with 1,500 staff. Jochem: There is enough space for a few players long-term. Small competitors should not waste their time and money. There is no room for them. Who has the bigger database of restaurants? What are your numbers? Raphael: 320. Anders: 300-odd. Jochem: Between 250 and 350. Are you keeping an eye on your competitors to see what they're doing? And how are they doing? Raphael: It is not our main focus but of course we know what they are doing. They are doing okay but we are growing faster than them and have the most restaurants. Anders: I don’t focus much on competitors. We focus on customer service. We have one of the best customer service teams in

Are you planning to expand out of Saigon?

Jochem: We are in Danang and Hanoi also, as for expanding we will wait and see. Eat.vn has their own bikes where they actually deliver directly to the customers. The others don’t. Explain which option you feel is better and more efficient for the customers and overall service. Raphael: It is better not to get involved in the delivery side. It’s a costly expense and trouble. Anders: We have a mix. As long as the delivery is done well we don’t care. We like to be in control, but most of our restaurant partners are also good. I think a mix is best. We give customers more of a choice with the drivers. Jochem: I don’t want to bash the competition but we think the restaurants can take care of that side. If restaurants don’t offer a delivery service we will not do business. An internet company is an internet company, we can also make sandwiches. When it comes to customer complaints when ordering through your sites, do you accept responsibility or pass the buck to the restaurants? Raphael: Most of the time it is from the restaurant if any mistakes happen. If the restaurant is not reliable we take it off the website. We would offer customers a refund. Anders: It depends what happens, but if it is a clear mistake by the restaurant, we make sure the restaurant delivers the correct dish. Jochem: Our part is to transfer to the restaurant and if there is a mistake after that, we both take responsibility, but it rarely happens. The restaurant is sometimes late but whatever happens they offer compensation but it is up to them what they do.

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BUSINESS FEATURE

MONEY TALKS Recently tasked with the job of revamping a fledging Vietnamese financial TV station, Lolita Guevarra finds out if Eric Olander can break the language barrier when it comes to discussing money. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

he average resident of this country may not know the difference between a mutual fund and a hedge fund or have a retirement plan for that matter, but there is one thing that they do care about: money. And vice president of Finance and Business News Channel (FBNC) Eric Olander knows this. “While stocks, bonds and high finance appeals to a relatively small slice of the Vietnamese population, everyone is interested in money,” remarks Olander in between bites of his burger. “Money and relationships, money and career, money and education and so on.” Since he’s begun the wheels of change at FBNC, Olander is a busy man. He’s been charged with altering the static network to an “Oprah+MTV+CNBC” hybrid. Investment group IDG along with BHD, a media group responsible for MTV Vietnam and Vietnam Idol, and Astro, a large Malaysian firm transmitting digital satellite TV and radio, are the financial backers of FBNC. This holy trinity accepted that their 1999 original vision of a finance channel needed a remodel. Enter Olander.

A Show for Women When he’s not speaking fluent Mandarin or French, the Californian native is doing his best to learn Vietnamese while creating daily original programming for three to four hours. This is no easy feat having just landed in Vietnam just two months ago, but incentives are high with a market where most of the news is cut and pasted from elsewhere. In lieu with BHD and Astro, he plans to create a channel with broader public appeal and with an emphasis towards the female audience. “Research says that Vietnamese women are responsible for 60 to 70 percent of all financial decisions in the average household, and almost nobody is talking to them about how to best manage their family’s finances,” says Olander. “We want to be an information source that provides women with practical information to make better financial decisions.” In his short time in Vietnam he has met

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with many Vietnamese women and is keenly aware of the emerging predicament they face — they now earn more money than men, causing an uncharted shift in the power play between the sexes. Olander points out that none of the 170 cable channels available address this concern. In addition to this development, Vietnam for the first time has access to consumer choices. The average Vietnamese watches two to three hours of TV a day, demonstrating that it is the more dominant media format than digital, according to Olander. The Vietnamese make their decisions on what to buy and invest based on what they view on television. And what advertiser is going to waste its time on a financial network only reaching one percent of the population? Few. Follow the money and you’ll find the masses at the end of the road. For a win-win situation, he aims to mesh the wonderful world of numbers and personality, giving the Vietnamese a platform of information providing more freedom to make their own choices.

A TV Personality If you’re thinking that Olander is yet another foreigner pulling in the reigns and showing the Vietnamese how the rest of the world does it, think again. Between 1991 and 1993, he freelanced for the BBC in China in between his semesters at University of California Berkeley and packaged a 10-part series radio broadcast of what was happening in rural China all before turning 23. After wrapping up five years as vice president at channel KSCI LA 18, the largest Asian network in the US, Olander worked for two years at France24 before heading back to the Far East. Wrap that up and tie a bow around it with his three year stint at E*Trade Financial, and you’ve got a guy that knows what he’s talking about. However, having a solid thirty years in journalism does not make him immune to obstacles. The majority of the Vietnamese population is so young that it’s difficult to find TV personalities that can bring mature and well-established advice. If you’re going

to go broad, you’re going to have to look beyond your stereotypical old men talking in jargon targeted to traders and advisors. Other than just having talking heads spew information regarding finance, Olander wants someone who has years of experience and is able to bring neutral yet solid information. Not only do you have to find the right person who’s experienced and not just regurgitating what banks promote, you also have to train them in a way that caters to the Vietnamese culture regarding money and decision making. “I’m training [broadcasters]. I don’t necessarily need them to have a formal background in journalism, but they do need to have knowledge and credibility in their respective field… 20 plus years working in Asian environments has taught me the importance of humility and why it’s so important to step back and take a few deep breaths from time to time when things don’t always go as planned… [We] must build on Vietnam’s rich narrative traditions and tell stories from a distinctly Vietnamese perspective. In this business authenticity matters.” Olander must also face Vietnam’s rapid development where its dynamics can frustrate your common pedantic individual. Yet, he notes that although it’s difficult to stick to a plan that may change in six months causing you to restructure your goals, it can also be a blessing. Olander remembers the rigidness found in large western firms preventing progress. “It’s easier in Vietnam because big networks can’t move fast enough to build infrastructure,” he explains. “Small companies give you enormous flexibility. Big networks are struggling to be relevant.” It’s a quarter way through the interview, and somehow he manages to finish his burger while discussing FBNC goals, advertisers and Asian culture a mile a minute. But his plate is far from empty. His project is an ambitious one, but the odds are definitely in his favour in creating his hybrid without all the red tape. For info on the channel’s airing schedule, visit fbnc.com.vn

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MYSTERY DINER

Our critic searches for authentic Italian comfort food on Le Loi but finds out that Italy is a long way from Saigon. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Casa Italia 86 LE LOI, Q1. TEL: 3824 4286

taly is always going to remind me of Silvio Berlusconi, football, a certain red capped plumber and of course, the food! In Venice at the age of 12 or so, I was too young to remember how much, or of what I wolfed down in detail, but I do remember the smell of cream and tomatoes cooking, my first glimpse of an entire cured pork leg and the discovery of pistachio ice cream before nearly getting lost in St Mark’s Square. But the spirit of Italy for me will always lie in its warmth, its cuisine and its great hospitality. Looking forward to revisiting those memories, we aimed for Le Loi with our sights firmly set on Casa Italia. In Britain spaghetti bolognese or “spag ‘bol” is practically a national dish and a far cry from its origin, so steering clear of it altogether we went with a cross section of dishes picked from the somewhat limited menu (we were told a longer one is in the works). A starter of antipasto arrived with a decent portion of freshly baked foccaccia to scoop it all up with. The bread was also accompanied by a sweet tomato dip laced with cream and a short tumbler of warm carrot and vegetable puree that a friend dubbed “Thanksgiving flavoured”. The tasty and varied selection of meats was delicious and the perfect way to start the meal, although the artichoke garnish had the taste of tin about it and was left largely untouched.

A Bit of a Porker Deciding against the safer choice of pizza and ravioli my friends went for, I chose the scaloppine, a pork fillet with mixed mushrooms, garden peas muddled in sage and thyme and cooked off in cream and lots of other delicious Italian things —

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it sounded delicious. It wasn’t. I was expecting the rare luxury of porcini and chanterelle, maybe even the meatiness of a portobello, anything in fact, instead of what I actually received, which were thinly sliced nam rom or straw mushrooms. Grown on rice straw beds and picked while still immature, they resemble tiny alien eggs, and unlike Sigourney Weaver, are found in most markets in Asia. Essentially they are cheap, and you’ll probably find them in your next bowl of canh chua. Eyeing my fellow diner’s ravioli with jealously, I remained positive and bit into the pork. Tough and coated in something starchy, which when covered in cream turned gooey and eventually ended its life stuck to the roof of my mouth, the dish was lost. Even the peas, bright green as they were, seemed as let down as I was. Suffice it to say, I wasn’t delighted. My dining partners on the other hand were pleased with their choice of pizza and ravioli, and after stealing some, I was as green as my rock hard peas. The pizza melted on my tongue, the ravioli filled my mouth with the fresh bite of homemade pasta, spinach and ricotta, the two filling ingredients more than able to take on the seasoned pasta with neither partner beaten senseless.

A Happy Ending A free shot of lemoncello was placed in front of each of us — it is a vicious mix of 30 percent proof alcohol and lemon zest, made largely in southern Italy. It’s definitely a palette cleanser. Although it may have dissolved any fillings we might have had, it was a nice touch, and in addition to the attentive service, another

nod to that famous Italian hospitality. Ending the night, a light panna cotta, an Italian cooked cream, was served, and the cinnamon promised in the menu came through which, along with the lemon fire I’d just ingested, left me tongue tied, but in a good way. It also helped to ease the disappointment of the pork. The restaurant itself is a friendly little place with a confusing upstairs décor; one too many style decisions, perhaps. So booking a table downstairs is advisable. And although the location might be the reason for the somewhat top-end price tag, other THE PRICES Italian restaurants are doing the same thing at lower prices. Although my dish was a bust, my dining partners were happy with their choices. A recent change of management may soon change the fate of this eatery, so with a price adjustment and some more attention to detail, I’m not willing to write it off just yet.

ANTIPASTO RUSTICA ALL'ITALIANA VND300,000 SCALOPPINE VND310,000 PANNA COTTA VND130,000 RED WINE VND90,000 THE VERDICT

Food, decor and service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15: 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

9 14 8 FOOD

SERVICE

DÉCOR

OUT & ABOUT

The Life of Pie From pumpkin to pecan and through to Danish apple, Ed Weinberg rounds up the city’s Thanksgiving pie offerings. Photos by Charles Barnes

n the other side of the world, the day of patriotic consumption known as Thanksgiving will be celebrated by 300 million Americans, give or take. People will gather at their tax-cheating uncle’s and cat-obsessed aunt’s houses for binge eating and stilted conversation, with food comas and an American football triple-header their only refuge. And when they’re away from home, strangely, they miss it. Anticipating the annual struggle to find pumpkin in all forms, we organised an old-school tasting of traditional Thanksgiving pies. Our panel consisted of three Americans, four Brits, three Vietnamese and one Irishman — a chef among them.

The Cream Dream Apple — VND380,000 On unveiling the fine-looking apple pie sent over from Annam (but baked by Harvest), one taster exclaimed — “Now that’s what a pie’s supposed to look like!” Another echoed that endorsement. “The lines, the curves,” she reflected, “that is a sexy pie.” Our pie slicer went to work, and soon found more to like. “It actually crunches when you cut it,” she said. “Now let’s see what it looks like inside.” “Oh wait,” our photographer cut in, as he set up for the portioning. Tasters gathered around, appreciating the “really nice smell, like cinnamon toast crunch.” One summed it up, saying, “now that is a cream dream.” Annam Gourmet — 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 41A Thao Dien, Q2

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Citrus Pumpkin — VND225,000 This little stunner arrived in a single-serving box and had to be split 11 ways for the tasting committee, with each taking a turn dipping their slice into the dense Grand Marnier cream served alongside. “It’s just as well,” one reviewer said, mentally calculating the calories. “I might as well just rub it on my thighs.” However, more than one reviewer couldn’t “really taste the citrus at all.” While not the most logical Thanksgiving pie choice, it was popular with our reviewers overall, with the surprising texture delivering “a filling that actually bounces.” Pondering further, the same taster said, “The pastry is quite flaky, but not dry.” Au Parc — 23 Han Thuyen, Q1

Crispy and Fresh Pumpkin and Sweet Potato — VND220,000 Dutch Apple — VND280,000 Pecan — VND390,000 The Thanksgiving pies arrived balanced on a baking sheet, economically adorned in plastic clamshells, but prompt to the minute. That’s a good thing for Geoffrey Deetz’s popular Thanksgiving destination — Black Cat — which provides takeout turkeys and a Thanksgiving buffet. One of our tasters could have used some of that balance here, giggling “too sweet!” as the pecan went around. It was a pecanpiled experience, which curiously tasted like bananas with honey. Next up was the Dutch apple, with a “really good and crispy outside bit” but a “runny” inside. Positive points included a nice

(From top left: Sweet potato, Dutch apple, pecan, Annam Gourmet's apple, pumpkin and Voelker's apple) crumble on top and a fresh apple taste. The sweet potato smelt aromatic like a nutmeg-y mashed potato, but “could use a bit more spice.” It was the most subtle of the bunch, taking one reviewer “to the borders of sweetness.” Last on the itinerary was the pumpkin, smelling great and reminding one of the Americans of “home sweet home.” This was the star of the assortment, with a springy texture and not too sweet a taste. One reviewer saw additional possibilities for it, saying it “would go nicely with a big cup of tea.” Black Cat — 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1

Hit of the Parade Pumpkin — VND320,000 “That pie is not meant to be eaten alone,” said one taster after a bite of the moist, flavourful and properly spicy pumpkin offering from Harvest. “Yea,” another rejoined, “two people, candlelight, one spoon.” San Francisco pastry chefs Lulu and Tim Ottaviani have been cooking for the holidays for over five years, and offer a whole line of pumpkin products for the most appropriate one on the calendar — to be enjoyed in the privacy of your own Thanksgiving dinner (which they can also provide) or at their District 2 cafe, Loaves and Fishes. This one was the hit of the pumpkin parade, with admiration expressed for the cute delivery box, and the “pastry mustache in

the middle.” The “fine smell” was a consideration in the overall grade, as well as the taste. The others pronouncing it the “winner,” and most simply saying, “mmm, mmm.” Harvest Bakery — 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh

A Pretty Pie Apple — VND294,000 Attractively packaged in an orange box — a colour that, when seen, increases oxygen to the brain and stimulates appetite — Voelker’s handsome apple pie box attracted attention before the tasting even began. This District 2 French bakery did a pretty good job with the pie itself, its clean lines garnering comparisons to “a fine automobile.” The chef among us expanded on the significance of this. “It’s pretty. A lot of people eat with their eyes so that’s really nice.” Once the pie was sliced, the raves didn’t stop. The chef said decisively, “Now that is a proper pastry.” However, not everyone agreed on what this proper pastry was. On finishing up her slice, one of our reviewers asked another, “Have you ever had egg custard? That’s what this one reminds me of, it’s really good, but it’s not apple.” Voelker Bakery — 21 Thao Dien, Q2

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SOUND & VISION

ANSWERING THE CRITICS On the back of publishing her controversial travelogue, Xach Ba Lo Len Va Di (Pack Your Bags and Go), Douglas Pyper meets Huyen Chip, the young author who, depending on who you ask, is either irresponsible, selfish, a fraud or a shining example to Vietnam’s youth

t just 22 years old, Chip has achieved more than many people twice her age. She’s released a book, started an NGO, taken part in numerous overseas conferences, been awarded internships in foreign countries and started an online travel wiki. But what everybody wants to talk about is her travels. Starting when she was 20, she journeyed alone for two years through 20 of the world’s most interesting developing countries, with a starting budget of just US$700. When she returned home earlier this year, she was met with both adoration and criticism. According to conservatives, Chip epitomises selfishness. How she could spend two years travelling and enjoying herself, rather than looking after her parents and studying, is beyond some in her homeland. Yet for Chip, travel has changed her outlook. And when she quips, “When you see more, you understand more, you judge less,” she could equally be delivering a riposte to those taking the pot-shots. It’s not news that Vietnamese people have rarely had the opportunity to travel other than for work. International isolation and poverty saw to that for many years. Today, however, some of the strongest barriers seem to be tradition and expectation. Those who criticise Chip are, by extension, saying that Vietnamese women shouldn’t travel, for to do so they must unacceptably neglect their obligations at home: to their parents, their country and to their studies.

From Both Sides Criticism is nothing new for Chip. While still a student at the National High School for Gifted Students, she was threatened with expulsion for organising Free Hugs Vietnam, the largest youth movement of the year. Apparently, she should have been concentrating on her studies rather than hugging strangers on the street. It was perhaps then that Chip chose a different path from her peers and neglected to go to university. “For me, university is just an option together with many other options,” she says. “At that time, university wasn’t the best option. I felt like I could learn more by doing other things.” If Chip’s behaviour was attracting ire at home, it was proving impressive abroad. Having been active in a various youth movements and having attended a number of conferences both at home and overseas, she had left an impression on many foreign speakers with her outspoken questions. The same outspoken attitude that was landing her in hot water in Vietnam, was the

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reason why she was offered a job in Malaysia which eventually led to her two years on the road. Throughout her travels, Chip mostly visited developing countries. She passed through Myanmar, India, Nepal, Palestine, Kenya and a smattering of other African countries. It was while in Africa that she had some of her most poignant experiences. She describes beginning a debate with a group of polygamists. Initially appalled at the idea of a society in which men take more than one wife, Chip’s judgemental attitude soon changed when the men expressed disgust at a society rife with abortion. Another tribe have a ritual of wife beating. The men beat the women with sticks till their backs scar. “The women actually like it,” Chip explains. “They are proud of it. It means the woman has sacrificed for the man. In times of difficulty, the woman can come to the man and say ‘hey, you owe me this’. The more scars a woman has, the higher her status. Maybe from our point of view it’s bad, it’s awful, it’s beating women. But from their point of view, it’s something to be proud of. Do you want to change it?”

Changing the World One thing Chip does want to change is the worldwide visa system. “I feel travelling is a very important educational tool,” she says. “It [helps] to understand the world, yourself and others.” For these reasons she is deeply against what she sees as the inequality in the allocation of visas. To her, the fact that entry to a country is decided by something as arbitrary as the country you were born in, is essentially unfair. “Every problem should have a solution,” she believes, so she is now in the process of setting up her own NGO, Travel is an Equal Opportunity Foundation (TEOF). She herself describes the plan as “crazy”, but is not afraid to get the ball rolling. “It’s a cause,” she says. “It’s what I believe in and I want to fight for it. If I don’t do it, somebody else will have to. Why wait for somebody?” The project displays an amazing part of Chip’s personality; an almost complete lack of self-doubt. She is unfazed by barriers of international relations and entirely unafraid to fail. “I seldom doubt myself,” she adds. “It’s not that I’m over confident, it’s just my philosophy is that there are no right or wrong decisions. I try my best, and if it works, it’s cool. If it fails, then I have some lessons to learn.”

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about 20 entangled couples and attentive youths leaning over them. There’s about 2.5 metres between walls, but Dai still finds some strutting room, holding his guitar way over his left shoulder in classical fashion. Light claps follow the beat occasionally, with more skill than your average audience participation. Heavier claps accompany the space between songs, until the third song has been played and we’re up again, a lovely singer in a red gown taking Dai’s place.

SOUND & VISION

The Travelling Troubadour

9.20 pm

Quang Dai is the hardest working man in showbiz. Over the course of an evening Ed Weinberg follows him on a six-venue tour of the town. Photos by Charles Barnes

uang Dai plays four or five shows a night, sometimes six. Winding through evening traffic from one spot to the next, he’ll make the last song or two of the previous performance set. He’ll take a seat, visibly relax and wait his turn. His shirt, already two buttons loose, will fall a bit further from his angular black hair, his eager face. He’ll get onstage and say a few words, sometimes about the next song, sometimes about how nice the night is. Depending on the crowd, he’ll play a Pham Duy song, a French musical number, maybe I Am the Walrus — probably 15 songs in total all night out of a repertoire of 300. He might follow one of the French songs with a “merci beaucoup!” A couple of songs will follow at one of his regular club gigs, maybe a couple more at one of the restaurants he’s been playing for the past decade. Then back on the bike, another adventure through packed lanes, trying to time the traffic lights. It’s like this for four hours, and the night develops an interesting rhythm. Following Dai one Thursday, I begin to see it like jazz, as if the whole sprawling night is a freeform performance.

7pm We start at Ngoc Suong Marina (172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3), an open-air seafood restaurant with most of the stage-side tables occupied. An older, country-style performer is onstage. As Somewhere Over the Rainbow plays, Dai tells me about the two late additions to the slate. This brings the total number of gigs on the night to six. He isn’t fazed by the crazy-sounding schedule as he

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sets up, soon delivering some melancholy French lines over a well-practiced tick-tock chanteur beat, the same five-piece in the background. One guy from the audience nods his head vaguely, seeming to stop as he realises what he’s doing. Almost everyone else carries on their conversation. A little girl flits around the borders of the stage area, dancing when the mood takes her. Another guy claps after my friend and I howl. The same beat kicks into the next song, an English ballad with the refrain “you mean everything to me.” The saxophone flares as Dai’s voice arches on “TO MEEEE!” We walk out on the next singer starting another set, wangling his way through How Deep Is Your Love.

7.55pm Time isn’t an issue as the hour creeps towards eight and we take the road out to another Ngoc Suong (11 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan) at a relaxed pace. This location is more of a scene than the last, with waiters roller skating in front of the swingy openers, as they oompa loompa their way through Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini. This place requires more of a jam-out from Dai, backup guitar twanging its way through the first tune, a French ramble through the open air. The lighting is more conducive to a central presence, the applause less restrained. Dai’s 1970s shirt checkmarks start peeking out a bit more.

8.45 pm Cooku’s Nest Cafe (13 Tu Xuong, Q3) has plywood climbing into an attic-y crawl space lined with stage nook-facing tables, with

We’re on the way to MZ Club (56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1) when the timing starts getting tricky. I throw caution to the wind as Dai bullies his way through intersections, trying to make the most of the interval. When we get to MZ we’re still early. My friend, wearing shorts, is given a pair of pants at the door. A pianist and violinist are playing to two dinner tables on our way upstairs. The only thing on the wall besides backlit geometric mosaics and decadent curtains is a glass-inlaid silhouette of Johnnie Walker. “This place,” my friend says, “is the exact opposite of the last.” Dai’s got no guitar this time. He steps foot to foot at first, and as the rhythm builds his shoulders get into it, his unoccupied left hand grabbing air. He gets passed a request by one of the starched white collars at the bar, and plays it. We jump on our bikes like bank robbers.

9.57pm Dai fields a phone call at 50kmh, looks pained. At a light, I ask him what it was. “We’re late,” he says. We run through the corridors of Napoly Bar (7 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3), up the fairy-lit stairs. We get in on the ending bars of Let It Be. After a minute of sitting it’s Dai’s turn, and he breezes through a rendition of his album’s title track, Hey Oh! The place rivals MZ in bottles, fruit plates and sparkly decor. The backing musicians wear white jackets. The instruments are a bit nicer, the beat clearer. Again the only image on the wall is the silhouette of Johnnie Walker.

10.25pm We cruise to our last destination of the night, the cocktail lounge of Hotel Equatorial (242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5). There’s no music for the first time tonight, until Dai’s backing band breaks the twotables-among-20 quiet with an instrumental version of Unbreak My Heart. Dai walks on after the song, his shirt collar now fully engulfing his black jacket. He plays a French version of Save the Last Dance for Me, then Nothing’s Gonna Change My Love for You. We’re again carrying the crowd, as the couple beside us head off. But Dai is just hitting his groove. On Lionel Richie’s Hello, he takes his time with every phrase. His guitarless left hand is no longer cutting air aimlessly; now it’s reaching through, clutching it, bringing it down with his final exhalation of the night.

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Daily Grind

GENERATION V

Top Time Killers Vu Ha Kim Vy catches up with some of Saigon’s youth to find out what passes for a good time these days. Photos by Francis

hen I was a teenager, my friends and I managed to entertain ourselves with playing sports or chess, spending hours talking and just general playing. More affluent parents would buy a Playstation for their children but now, Vietnamese teenagers have more options than they know what to do with. There are games and sports designed to reduce the stress of studying as well as giving them an

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opportunity to train their body and mind.

Yanking the Chain I simply don’t understand why kids are so into this game — unwind, yank back, unwind, yank back and repeat. While I haven’t met any yo-yo masters myself, I’ve heard of yo-yo tricks illustrating flowers, stars, suns, even castles or landmarks like The Eiffel Tower, jaw dropping tricks I’m sure.

Hung, a member of www.yo-yo4vn.com, says “The exciting thing about this game is that the players don’t need to follow any rules, they can just randomly create anything that’s on their mind through the movement of their hands.” Yo-yos also teach children patience and have a calming effect, which as any parent will tell you, is never a bad thing. Catch Hung’s team playing at Tao Dan Park, from 8am to 12pm, every Sunday

Tung, a student of banking and a wellknown skateboarder, tells me that “skateboarding gives people a feeling of being free, adventurous and gives you the chance to be more assertive. The skaters can sometimes feel skill and strength in every single jump”. Hoang Anh, a 12th grader became hooked when he saw a video on YouTube. Liking what he saw, he decided to save enough money to buy a skateboard so he could start training with his friends at Chi Lang Park. “At the beginning, my calves hurt,” he says. “I got a lot of scratches from hitting the board, but because of that, I became stronger and more confident. This also helped my physical strength — my hands and legs have become a lot more flexible.” The skateboarders meet at 23/9 park (between Le Lai and Pham Ngu Lao, Q1) and Chi Lang Park (Dong Khoi, Q1, in front of Vincom Center), from 3pm to 11pm, every day

Just Rollin’ Around Roller-skating is a relatively old pastime in Vietnam, made popular in my parents’ generation which explains why patine, as it’s called in Vietnamese, is derived from the

French patin a roulettes. So why is it still so popular in 2012? When I think about roller-skating, I’m reminded of rental skates that are never washed and concrete floors. A pair of your own roller-skates were expensive, not to mention dangerous as the streets in Saigon

“It makes me feel like flying, being adventurous, and I can express my strong personality” were mostly red clay back then. Now, as more and more companies are importing products from outside of Vietnam, you can now buy a standard pair of roller skates for VND800,000. However, according to Dao, the leader of skating group Xcool, Saigon still doesn’t

have up-to-date roller-skating rinks, but Vung Tau does. Until it does, teenagers will have to continue to meet in parks or places where there are spacious, flat spaces and more importantly, no traffic. Xcool usually meets at Him Lam Apartments, Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7, opposite Lotte Mart. You can also check out 23/9 park (between Le Lai and Pham Ngu Lao), Le Thi Rieng park (875 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q10) or Hoang Van Thu park (Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh)

Blades of Glory Freeline skating or rollerblading is new here and is already all the rage in Saigon and Hanoi, where freeline skating communities are now growing. “Because it’s still new in Vietnam, we have to search on YouTube for new tricks to learn,” says Ninh. “There aren’t any local instructors yet, which is good because everyone can create their own moves.” Nhi, a new fan of the sport excitedly adds, “It makes me feel like flying, being adventurous, and I can express my strong personality.” Drop by Le Van Tam park (between Vo Thi Sau and Dien Bien Phu, Q1), 5pm every Sunday to practice or just to watch

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LOSER

T OME H O

WITH SO MANY FOREIGN FASHION AND HOMEWARE BRANDS MAKING THEIR WAY INTO THE COUNTRY, WE PAY HOMAGE TO THIS COUNTRY’S RICH TRADITION OF FINE CRAFTSMANSHIP AND TIMELESS CHARM BY LOOKING AT PRODUCTS THAT ARE CREATED AND SOLD RIGHT HERE IN VIETNAM PHOTOGRAPHER: FRANCK ROUBAUD | HAIR STYLIST: YUKA INUI | MAKEUP: PHUONG NGUYEN | MODEL: TRANG LA - RUNWAY MANAGEMENT

Black bag, VND3 million at Takayuki Boutique | Embroidered linen table cloth, 180 x 300cm, VND4.58 million at Catherine Denoual Maison

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Embroidered cotton satin flat sheet, 270 x 320cm, VND4.85 million at Catherine Denoual Maison White bag, VND9.8 million at Takayuki Boutique

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Purple bag, VND9.8 million at Takayuki Boutique | Linen lampshade, 46x22cm, VND2.42 million at Catherine Denoual Maison

Bag, VND5.2 million at Takayuki Boutique

Takayuki Boutique (Fl. 1 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1) | Catherine Denoual Maison (15C Thi Sach, Q1 & Fl. 2 65 Le Loi, 2nd Floor, Q1)

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City Guide BUSINESS LISTINGS 074 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 082 / OUT & ABOUT LISTINGS 092 / SOUND & VISION LISTINGS 110 / LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS 116 / LIFESTYLE LISTINGS 125 / GENERATION V LISTINGS 132 Photo by charles barnes

A D D I T I O N A L F E AT U R E S

Destination Zero 084 Travel Promos 090 Foodie Corner 100 Food Promos 108 For The Record 111 Road Rules 112 Decks 'n' Drums 114

BUSINESS

LISTINGS

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 078 ADVERTISING & MARKETING 078 BUSINESS CONSULTING 080 BUSINESS GROUPS 080 CONSUMER GIFTS 081 EVENT MANAGEMENT 081 EXPAT SERVICES 081 HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 081 INSURANCE 082 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 082

ACCOUNTING & AUDITING BUREAU VERITAS

E-Town Building, #4.4B & 4.5A 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: 3812 2196 www.bureauveritas.com Auditing, technical services and solutions firm working in all the major industrial service sectors. Provides management system certification and related training for IS0 9001, ISO 14001, SA 8000, OSHAS 18001, HACCP, ISO 22000 and BRC. Has over 900 offices worldwide in 140 countries.

DELOITTE VIETNAM

11th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 0751 www.deloitte.com/vietnam

KPMG

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 082 LAUNDRY 083 LEGAL SERVICES 083 MANAGEMENT TRAINING 084 MARKET RESEARCH 084 PUBLIC RELATIONS 085 RECRUITMENT & HR 085 RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 085 SERVICED APARTMENTS 085

A member firm of Deloitte Touche Tohatsu. Provides audit, tax, consulting, and financial advisory services to public and private clients spanning multiple industries.

GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3827 0220 www.globaleye.com A financial advisory company that advises on everything from investments, offshore banking and education planning to life protection wills, pensions and more. Globaleye provide an invaluable resource for expats living in Vietnam who want to maintain tax efficient savings while having access to major fund houses such as Fidelity & JP Morgan from only VND3 million a month, and also to have the right insurance protection for families living on foreign soil.

10th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9266 www.kpmg.com Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also provides executive search and selection.

ODYSSEY RESOURCES LIMITED

7th Floor, E-Town Building, 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: 3812 5562 www.odyssey–resources.com One of the leading mid-tier accounting services firms in Vietnam. Odyssey provides accounting and management consulting services, along with tax advice and Australian tax agent services.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3823 0796 www.pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions, as well as tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years of experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES

6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 2262 TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands, with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Also specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

This includes services such as incorporation of companies and representative offices, opening of bank accounts, licensing and tax stamps.

ADVERTISING & MARKETING ADMAKER

Unit 2.4, 2nd Floor, 12M Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3910 3500 www.admaker.com.vn A local full service agency run by advertising professionals dedicated to providing clients with results orientated marketing communications via strong advertising concepts and excellent customer service.

BATES 141 VIETNAM

Level 7, Vietnam Business Center, 57-59 Ho Tung Mao, Q1, Tel: 3821 8632 www.bates141.com A full service marketing communications company that is part of the WPP Group. Focuses exclusively on the growing demands of Asian business, helping to build sustainable brands with global ambition.

BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 6662 www.bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN – STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 3064 www.cowandesign.com Specialising in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies. Wholly owned with seven global offices — three of which are in Asia and working extensively across India, Southeast Asia and North Asia.

DRAFTFCB VIETNAM

13D Phan Chu Trinh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3551 2202 clientservice@draftfcb.vn Draftfcb is one of the largest global advertising agency networks with headquarters in both Chicago and New York. Has more than 190 offices serving clients in 102 countries including many in the region.

EDGE MARKETING

1Bis Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 3911 1191 www.edge–asia.com A creative marketing company that matches the results–driven requirements of modern business with the needs of the consumer. Embraces a wide range of modern technology and concepts to help provide a full–service marketing package to their clients.

GREY GROUP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3929 1450 www.grey.com/vietnam A full spectrum marketing communications company, Grey Group’s work includes PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Has offices in nearly 100 countries and major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA

Villa B,12A Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: 3740 6388 www.industrialdesignasia.com Offers (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for all products; plastics, consumer products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia. Contact them to get a free quotation.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

113 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1, Tel: 3914 3615 www.marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since 2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide. Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented campaigns that have been selected as global best practice by both international and local clients.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9529 www.ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company that leverages the brands of multinational clients by combining local know–how with a worldwide network. Works to create powerful campaigns that address local market needs while still reinforcing universal brand identity.

PBB GRAPHIC STUDIO

Tel: 0126 5669632 contact@pbb-studio.com www.pbb-studio.com Founded in 2002, with more than 10 years of experience in graphic design, PBB specialises in branding, interior graphics, signage, print design, POSM and web design. As of 2006, PBB has been based in Ho Chi Minh City operating as a graphic consultant for creative agencies, companies as well as private clients.

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: 3930 6777 www.phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company growing fast

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throughout Indochina. Now with offices in Saigon, Phnom Penh and an association in Vientiane, Phibious employs over 70 staff that are driven towards helping brands connect and grow in this dynamic region. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA

Melody Tower, 422-424 Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3898 1005 www.purpleasia.com A leading independent creative communications company. Offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: 3820 0169 www.red.vn Long established, branding consultancy and marketing agency. From Vietnam to Australia, the red team create and shape unique brand personalities that add impact to international and local brands. The team regularly share industry trends, news and views at red.tm/blog.

RIVER ORCHID

Tel: 3925 2538 www.riverorchid.com The only communications network specialising in Indochina including Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade. Riverorchid specialises in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

3 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: 3824 1207 www.saatchi.com 60th among the top 100 global advertising agencies, the company has worked with

over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world. Services include advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting, graphic design and advertising.

TBWA\VIETNAM

Unit 603, Rosana Tower, 60 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3824 5315 www.tbwa.com TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, named Advertising Age’s “Best International Network of the Decade” in 2010 and ranked 24th on Fast Company’s 2009 list of “The World’s 50 Most Innovative Companies”. Marketing services include strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

TYA VIETNAM

3rd Floor, Lafayette Building, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3956 www.tya.com.vn Established 1982 in Japan, TYA is a strategic creative agency with a growing network across Asia Pacific. TYA uses this strength to match clients’ diverse business strategies. Their international team offers the TYA brand of strategic creative that strives to satisfy clients' business objectives to the fullest.

XONE FM

100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 5341 www.xonefm.com The first independently run radio station

business in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest and hottest songs in both English and Vietnamese. Has 10 channels throughout the country, in Ho Chi Minh City on 104.5 FM and Hanoi on 102.7 FM. The schedule runs from Monday to Friday from 6am to 9am, 4pm to 11pm and at the weekends between 1pm and 11pm.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, el: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

BUSINESS CONSULTING BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3823 7858 www.bdg–vietnam.com BDG is one of the leading business development and consulting company in Vietnam active in the areas of sourcing & production, strategic marketing and Project Management. Partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open new perspectives, address critical challenges and drive business activities to success in Vietnam. BDG is a private company with four offices in three countries.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1480 www.concetti–vn.com Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

DL TECHNOLOGIES

69A1 Tran Ke Xuong, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3551 2260 www.dltechnologies.com.au DL Technologies provide premium integrated technology solutions with emphasis on local “on the ground” support from a highly skilled and continually trained international team. Services include background music systems, lighting management and control systems, security & access control systems, premium audio and video with automated controls, discreet audio and video, home theatre, iPadbased home control / audio video control systems, air-conditioning control and energy management systems.

ERNST & YOUNG

8th Floor, Saigon Riverside Office Center, 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3824 5252 www.ey.com Provides a broad spectrum of services to help businesses capitalise on

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opportunities for growth, improve financial performance and manage risk. Works with a range of firms including private, state–owned and foreign.

GOLDEN SPEED SEO

www.goldenspeedseo.com info@goldenspeedseo.com Get maximum exposure for your website by improving your rankings in search engines like Google. A steady flow of potential clients will visit your site every day once you have achieved a good position on search engines' results pages. Contact Golden Speed SEO for a free session regarding your online project.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 9100 www.gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants working in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0916 352573 www.inspiredimage.co.uk Huong Nguyen is a professional Image Consultant based in Ho Chi Minh City and the UK. An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES (VIETNAM) COMPANY LIMITED 8th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3829 6416 www.prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering technical expertise in the areas of data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6770 www.iprights.com Specialist intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services. From the implementation of global investigation and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services, include IP filing and management services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0965 www.starcorpvn.com Incorporation of offshore and foreign– owned Vietnamese companies. Opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts, providing licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing. Also provides, investment strategies and administration services for foreign-owned companies based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

Fideco Riverview Building, Mezzanine Floor 14, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 www.strasol.com Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL is a strategic solutions provider serving as a longterm strategic partner with senior leaders and organisations in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Focuses on the future, striving to deliver superior results, customer value and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions, derived from a combination of researchbased best-practice, consulting and learning with a focus on change, people, strategy and leadership.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 6291 2205 www.tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia. Their core strengths are corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion, and market research. Offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Thailand, China and India.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 3402 www.xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and people development. Services include: assessment / development centres, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3562. www.amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Ho Chi Minh Chapter, Suite 1A, 1st Floor, TV Building, 31A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3911 0272/ 73/ 74 www.auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group in Vietnam established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating here. AusCham co–ordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations, and promotes profile charity events in Vietnam.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 8430 www.bbgv.org The first foreign business group to set up in Vietnam, BBGV’s goal is to both promote the interests of its members as well as the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3824 3754 www.canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums about doing business in Vietnam. Offers an array of seminars as well as social and networking events.

NORDCHAM

12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 5423 www.nordcham.com Provides support to Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise and experience.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM

40/5 Pham Viet Chanh, Ward 19, Binh Thanh www.pbgvn.com A non-profit, non-government, and non-political organisation that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding, to serve as the voice of Philippine business entities and establish relationships with other business associations in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3046 www.sbghcm.org A group with over 300 members who meet regularly to foster business relations

with others in the community, as well as taking part in social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities. Hosts regular networking functions and special events. Membership is VND200,000 per month and allows you access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: 3744 6996 www.swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a nongovernmental, non-political, non-profit organisation that strives to promote business, economic, cultural activities and other interests of common concern to the Swiss Business Association’s members and the Vietnamese authorities.

CONSUMER GIFTS AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD.

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3824 8364 manish@ambrij.com www.ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and much more.

EVENT MANAGEMENT EVECOO

Tel: 0988 297990 www.evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the needed magic to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6048 www.galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall in the centre of District 1 has four different ballrooms and a rooftop terrace, professional banquet, catering, and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal place for events such as meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings, or anniversaries.

MR BOUNCY INFLATABLE GAME HIRE 50/8 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: 0165 6392 507 www.mrbouncy.com.vn Mr Bouncy is an inflatable game hire company, offering great products hiring out a number of inflatables such as waterballs, bouncy castles and many more great items for parties and events.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO.,LTD 268/3-5 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan binh Tel: 6675 2620 www.vietnam-weddings.com

One World Tourism’s wedding planning business offers comprehensive wedding planning services in Vietnam no matter what size or type of wedding. It is offered to couples seeking high quality, attention to detailed planning and resources, wanting to create the wedding of their dreams, no matter what size, style or location.

PHOTO OI!

Tel: 01269 502790 www.photooi.com Photo booth rental service that combines digital photography and instant photo printing using only top-of-the-line equipment and materials. Photo Oi! Sets up a booth at any event complete with backdrop and fun props that everyone can use.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to provide the ideal solution for any kind of event.

EXPAT SERVICES CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3920 7237 www.chumshouse.com A service dedicated to finding people a place to live. With an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference, they can have you moved into a new house within days. Help with motorbike rentals, visas and other information about living in Vietnam is also available. All services provided free of charge.

HAPPY HOUSE

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 www.happy-house.vn Created by a team of Vietnamese and expat professionals, Happy House aims to make life in Saigon easier for everyone by offering practical solutions for a myriad of problems, including monthly bill payments, home repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering, computer repair and pet transportation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

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business SAVILLS VIET NAM LTD.

HOUSING & REAL ESTATE CBRE

Unit 1201, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3824 6125 www.cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 3529/3530 www.colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management, and support services.

CREATION

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 6291 4707 www.cwr.com.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy. For further information email hcmc.info@ ap.cushwake.com.

EASY SAIGON

www.easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

HOUSINGINTERACTIVE

Tel: 6255 6774 www.housinginteractive.com HousingInteractive offers an easy-touse, comprehensive website that only lists authentic apartments and villas throughout Ho Chi Minh City. The website allows users to make specific searches to narrow down properties in order to suit their exact requirements and save time. Upon selecting, HousingInteractive's professional staff is available 6 days a week to introduce tenants to their future homes.

Real value in a changing world

JONES LANG LASALLE VIETNAM

26th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3968 www.joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a financial and professional services firm specializing in real estate. We offer integrated services delivered worldwide by expert teams to clients who seek increased value by owning, occupying, or investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, we work and collaborate closely with our colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-in-class services, people, and systems to our clients in Vietnam. Our offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

KNIGHT FRANK

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3823 9205 www.savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is the leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and many other services.

SNAP

www.snap.com.vn A simple, web–based real estate search service. Provides information on rental properties all around the city with full listings available online.

in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

INSURANCE BAOVIET INSURANCE

Tel: 3825 8416 www.interglobalvn.com Offers full hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion with no hidden hospital sub–limits. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care. Available for anyone up to 74 years of age. No claims discount available.

SPOT

18/34b Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 955 877, www.spotvietnam.com Native English speakers specialising in rentals and tenancy management. Spot offers quick and easy complimentary services from start to close.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3520 2000 www.sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and for lease in Vietnam and around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

Lau 8, River View Tower, Thai Van Lung,Q 1 Tel: 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

Suite A, 7/F, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 6777 www.knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896 as a valuations, surveying and auctions business, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

THE NEST

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

Suite 501, Anh Kim Office Building, 43 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3914 7003 http://vietnam.transpo-property.com Transpo Property specialises in finding a suitable residence for their clients, as well as offering a full range of relocation services including school search, preview trips, orientation tours, and whatever else one may need when moving to Vietnam. Also provides a home search service to expats who are already living in Vietnam, specialising in finding high–end apartments and villas.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0999 www.prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 00 77 00 www.namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions, decorations in HCM city especially in District 2. Supporting the professional services and after–sales.

PLATINUM1

Star Building, 33 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: 3911 8193 www.platinum1corp.com This American–based company provides a range of comprehensive real estate services. Known for its efficient and dependable service, it has global connections and expertise in the Vietnam real estate market.

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 www.thenest–vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale. Service is orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

TRANSPO PROPERTY (VIETNAM)

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising

IF CONSULTING

1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: 3827 7362 www.insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers to provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3812 5125 www.libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a quality range of insurance services to both commercial enterprises and individuals. Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel as well as expat healthcare packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1800 599 998.

PRUDENTIAL

INVESTMENT & FINANCE DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3823 9355 www.dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam with total group assets in excess of US$2 billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and the UK.

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

www.ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering ‘real’ alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: 3820 0623 www.t–wm.com Personal financial planning for expatriates. Portable retirement savings plans for individuals of all nationalities. Tax minimisation strategies. Asset allocation and money management. Debt and cash– flow planning. Life, disability and health insurance. Family wealth protection.

VINACAPITAL

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 9930 www.vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund currently listed on the London Stock Exchange.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS APOLLO EDUCATION & TRAINING

26 Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: 3823 3597 www.apolloedutrain.com Established in 1994, Apollo offers high– quality and cost–effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic.

BELL VIETNAM

28C Mai Thi Luu, Q1 www.bellvietnam.com A partner of Bell International, BVN provides high–quality language education and related services worldwide. Focuses exclusively on language training for adults using the best multimedia materials.

ILA VIETNAM

51 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3838 6788 www.ilavietnam.com A foreign owned education and training company that offers a broad range of educational programmes and services such as English language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training, and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L'ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 www.latelier-anphu.com L’Atelier is a French language centre offering classes in all forms to children and adults, and to French-speaking and foreign residents. Each course is offered in small groups of a maximum of four people or in private class. Classes include spelling and grammar tuition after school, monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), and Vietnamese lessons, including extracurricular activities during the holidays.

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BUSINESS

BUFF

business VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 www.vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central school, in your home, office, or over Skype.

Australian law firm working in Asia for over 30 years. Besides providing the standard legal services to corporate clients, has an excellent website containing the Vietnam Laws Online Database English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

VLS SAIGON

BAKER & MCKENZIE

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: 3910 0168 www.vlsstudies.com A leading professional institution specialising in teaching Vietnamese to international students. Courses range from basic conversational Vietnamese for beginners to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as a range of special courses that take in Vietnamese literature, composition and a crash-course 6-hour survival session. Courses range in intensity and classes take place on and off campus.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION (NOTARIZED)

A HALF BILLION DOLLAR DRINKING BINGE VIETNAM IS A RELAXED PLACE when it comes to nights out with Dionysus and we have all had nights where things got a little out of hand and we woke up the next day with some remorse. But what’s the worst thing you ever done when intoxicated? Maybe ruined a party, or woke up somewhere you shouldn’t be. Have you ever had a drinking binge that affected millions of people and involved more than half a billion US dollars? Steve Perkins has. On Tuesday, June 30, 2009 Perkins woke up with a larger than usual hangover and a phone call from his employer (BVM Oil Futures) inquiring why he had spent US$520 million of company money trading almost 70 percent of the world’s Brent oil the night before. The story that unfolded involved one huge drinking binge which had started at the company golf weekend two days before and continued at the office on Monday and led to a night of unauthorised trading that affected the global oil markets. NO JUSTICE Over a 19 hour period that Perkins claimed to be “blacked out drunk” he bought 7.13 million barrels of oil futures. At the peak of this trading/drinking binge, oil prices fluctuated upward by more than US$1.50 per barrel in less than 30 minutes, something that typically never happens barring some sort of global catastrophe. It was later

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estimated to have cost the global economy US$130 million. It also affected his employer which, because of his trading positions at PVM Oil Futures, was left holding "substantial volumes" of futures, costing the company over US$9.7 million to honour. That year PVM saw a loss of US$7.6 million. Keep in mind he was only meant to trade on behalf of clients and was not authorised to trade using PVM capital. After an investigation by the FSA, which deemed him "not fit and proper", Perkins was barred from working as a trader in the UK for a minimum of five years and fined a total of £72,000, paid in 36 installments. This number was reduced from £150,000 after Perkins expressed concern that it would cause him undue financial hardship. When delivering the report, a regulator for the FSA said that "Mr. Perkins poses an extreme risk to the market when drunk". In the end justice was not even close to being served, and Perkins was hired by a Swiss trading company two days later where his restrictions did not apply. So next time you wake up a little hungover and concerned by the millions of dong you spent last night — at least you didn’t bankrupt your company and cost the global economy over US$100 million. — Shane Dillon Shane works in financial services in Vietnam — By Shane Dillon Shane works in financial services in Vietnam

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6678 0914 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3925 9800 www.vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected non–governmental language institutions in Ho Chi Minh City. The English language training programmes are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York. Has a number of campuses throughout the city.

LAUNDRY COSMO LAUNDRY & DRY CLEANING

Office: 80 Nguyen Khoa, Q4, Tel: 6261 6868 Valet shops: Circle K Store, 15B1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1; 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1; 36 Su Van Hanh, Q5; CRII, The Crescent, Q7; Shop & Go Store, RMIT University 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.cosmolaundry.com Cosmo Laundry & Dry Cleaning offers professional and reliable laundry & dry cleaning services for executive officers, expatriates and business associations in Ho Chi Minh City.

MICKEY LAUNDRY

203 Bui Vien, District 1 29 Hung Gia 4 St, Q7 F4 Luong Dinh Cua, Q2, Tel: 2244 4466 Now in three convenient locations, Saigon’s leading laundry does wash and fold, dry-cleaning and ironing, along with a range of specialised services including spot removal, colour dyeing, tailoring, repairs, leather cleaning and business shirt service. Free pickup and delivery.

MR CLEAN

16 Tran Khac Chan, Q1, Tel: 2218 8111 www.mrcleanvietnam.com Mr Clean offers dry cleaning and laundry services for everything from wedding and ball gowns, suede and leathers to suits, shirts and jackets, and handbags and luggage. Repairs and alterations and shoe cleaning are also available. Using an oil-based solvent to ensure longer lasting clean clothes, Mr Clean offers free pickup and delivery and same day service.

LEGAL SERVICES ALLENS

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 1717 www.vietnamlaws.com

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3829 5585 www.bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provide on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3824 2733 www.frasersvn.com The first legal firm to receive a foreign law company license to operate in Vietnam, Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vietnamese context on all areas of business and commerce to leading global and local companies investing and operating in Vietnam. Ranked in the top tier of international law firms practising in this jurisdiction. Monthly newsletter available by email.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL (GLN) A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3823 8599 www.gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer their clients (companies and international institutions) high quality services that combine legal expertise and a highly commercial approach to clients’ needs, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: 3823 9640 www.indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established at the end of 2006, the firm assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 8860 www.mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994 with offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, the firm provides clients with the full range of legal services in all areas of business including corporate, real estate, banking and finance, and all forms of inward investment.

MANAGEMENT TRAINING

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 6292 9288 www.erci.edu.vn Based in Singapore with campuses located throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes and corporate training to bachelor programmes in finance, business management and tourism and hospitality management, all the way through to the 12-month MBAs awarded by the Australian Institute of Business Administration.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3821 9919 www.ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: 3823 6965 www.indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 6314 www.mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and government commercial offices. Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis, and trade promotion.

SYNOVATE VIETNAM

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development. Well-known for their MBA programme which can be taken both part and full-time.

13th Floor, Room 1312, Khumho Asiana Plaza 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 6288 8785 www.synovate.com A global market research company that drives competitive brand, product and customer experience strategies. With offices in 64 countries, Synovate combines global research capabilities with a personalised service, local knowledge and flexibility to meet clients’ specific requirements.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

NIELSEN

RMIT

MARKET RESEARCH CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3822 7727 www.cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

EPINION

11th Floor, Dinh Le Building, 1 Dinh Le, Q4 Tel: 3826 8989 www.epinion.vn Epinion is a European market research and business intelligence company that operates the largest online panel in Vietnam and offers solutions in brand equity tracking, ad and TVC tests, retail feedback and employee satisfaction.

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: 3997 8088 http://vn.nielsen.com Nielsen Holdings N.V. (NYSE: NLSN) is a global information and measurement company with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties. Nielsen has a presence in approximately 100 countries, with headquarters in New York and Diemen in the Netherlands.

TNS VIETNAM

105–107 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 3821 5727 www.tnsglobal.com With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customised, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

PUBLIC RELATIONS MANDARIN MEDIA

www.mandarinmedia.net A public relations, marketing and IT company with offices in Saigon, Hue and Portland (USA). Led by a team of seasoned journalists, Mandarin Media generates news and features about your company in English–language newspapers and magazines worldwide.

MASS GROUP

MEKONG EMERALD TALENT

MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

NAVIGOS GROUP

30 Dang Tat, Q1 www.massogroup.com Provides professional marketing services and consulting for the Vietnamese market including integrated marketing communications, PR and brand–building consulting. Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: 3838 5517 www.matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility, and media and issues management and training.

UNIVERSAL MANAGEMENT ASIA (UMA)

1201, Block A, Indochina Park Tower, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 2220 2989 www.universalmanagementasia.com UMA is an Australian/Vietnamese promotional and representation company providing promotional marketing solutions for business products and services within Vietnam.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 6291 0462 www.veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues/ crisis management.

XPR BRAND COMMUNICATIONS

37 Dang Thi Nhu, Q1, Tel: 3821 0779 www.xpr.com.vn A complete range of services and facilities for advertisement campaigns and public relations in Vietnam.

RECRUITMENT & HR HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3930 8800 www.hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is currently one of the top three HR consulting firms in Vietnam, specialising in matching senior level professionals to top opportunities in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. Other services include: payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3911 0950 www.manpower.com.vn Manpower is the first global recruitment company to set up locally. Offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

4th Floor, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3820 3115 www.mekongem.com Provides a range of manpower services including executive search and selection, HR management and employment outsourcing. Works within a wide variety of industries. 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 5000 www.navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM RO

2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3827 8209 www.opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. An Associate of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups, with over 30 offices worldwide.

ROBERT WALTERS VIETNAM

39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 7900 www.robertwalters.com.vn Robert Walters Vietnam offers a highly professional and specialised recruitments service. With 47 offices in 23 countries, Robert Walters holds an established track record with Asia's leading institutions, from multinational corporations to smaller enterprises. The Vietnam office specialises in permanent jobs across these disciplines: Sales & Marketing, Technical Healthcare, Accountancy & Finance, Banking & Financial Services, Human Resources, IT, Supply Chain, Engineering and Oil & Gas Technical.

TOWERS WATSON VIETNAM

(formally Watson Wyatt and SMART HR) Suite 808, 8th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 9488 www.towerwatson.com/vietnam The first and only global HR consulting firm fully operational in Vietnam. Services include executive compensation, talent management, employee rewards and surveys, HR effectiveness and technology, data services and total reward surveys.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 5404 1373 www.vietnamworks.com Online jobsearch website with probably the best selection of jobs in Vietnam. Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS

2nd Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3454 www.alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services.

BRAINBOX VIETNAM

5th & 6th Floor, Saigon Prime building, 107–109–111 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 6920 7405 www.brainboxvn.com An education and training firm with its HQ in Singapore that provides several business courses leading to internationally–recognised qualifications such as BAs, MBAs and doctorates.

EMBERS ASIA

4th floor, 4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: 3822 4728 www.embers-asia.com As the first team building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in making teams better in globally competitive markets. Embers' HR performance management services include team building excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

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destination In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL (VIETNAM) LTD.

9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4., Tel: 3826 7799 www.asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers are the largest regional move management specialists with partners all over the world, with services including door to door moving, housing and school finding, local and office moves, and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

48A Huynh Man Dat, Binh Thanh ,Tel: 3840 4237 www.crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES

LOGICAL MOVES – VIETNAM

NORFOLK MANSION

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3941 5325 www.logicalmoves.net Specialists in international moves for household goods and used personal effects through our global partner network. Also local, domestic and office moves. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. Email Chris Honor at chris@logicalmoves.net for further information.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: 3744 4111 www.riverside–apartments.com Four–hectares of nature on the bank of the Saigon River where all can enjoy the lifestyle of a resort with all the luxury amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located within minutes of the downtown area by high speed boat shuttle service.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

SEDONA SUITES

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: 3826 8850 www.seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8th Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: 3933 0065 www.santaferelo.com Santa Fe Relocation Services offers moving, home search, pet transport, orientation and immigration services. The only moving company to have ISO 9001 – 14001 certification in Vietnam.

SERVICED APARTMENTS CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay and range from VND11,825,000 to VND16,125,000 per month. This is inclusive of two gas cylinders, five big bottles of water per month, daily usage of water and parking, thrice-weekly apartment servicing, ADSL Internet, and access to the fitness centre.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 1111 www.cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown with 69 fully–furnished apartments. Facilities include a gym, a pool room, a kids

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65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one–to–three bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully– equipped kitchenettes. Have a range of residential facilities including a gym, squash court, business centre and Minimart.

has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa and reasonable prices to match.

BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND SPA CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 3822 9197 www.somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court and Somerset Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped CREDIT kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends. CREDIT CARD

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

ACCEPTS CREDIT CARDS

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

BUSINESS

CREDIT

RESTAURANT & BAR SERVICES

SMOKE-FREE ROOMS RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

RESTO-BAR

SMOKING

GYM

SWIMMING POOL

BUSINESS

CREDIT CREDIT

SMOKING CREDIT CREDIT CARD GYM CARD

RESTO-BAR SWIMMING RESTO-BAR POOL SMOKING SMOKING BUSINESS

GYM GYM

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING GYM

SWIMMING GYM GYM GYM GYM POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS POOL POOL POOL POOLBUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 www.dalatpalace.vn Overlooking central Dalat, the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain further afield, the city’s top and most classic hotel still maintains its original 1920s style and charm. Has 38 rooms and five suites, a gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie serving international and local cuisine, a piano bar, Larry’s Bar in the basement and five meeting rooms. 151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 383 3748 The excellent value at this small private hotel has made it justifiably popular. You get a large room with cable TV, free breakfast and Internet access, starting from VND500,000 per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just round the corner are bike rentals (watch those hills) and other tour facilities. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ 1 Phan Chu Trinh, Dalat Tel: 3740 7512 www.lasapinette.com Situated in the centre of Dalat’s famous Liang Biang Plateau, La Sapinette is a first class hotel with traditional, French art nouveau-styled décor. Also has a modern commercial centre, complete with stateof-the art facilities, 91 rooms including one and two-bedroom apartments.

BUSINESS

TRUNG CANG HOTEL BUSINESS

SWIMMING POOL

CREDIT CARD

RESTO-BAR

BUSINESS

GYM SMOKING

DALAT PALACE

LA SAPINETTE DALAT

ICONS 101 CREDIT

CREDIT CARD

$ 174 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: 063 3827 999 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in the centre of town, this no-frills budget hotel offers 12 basic but nicely decorated and clean guestrooms, all with free Wi-Fi. Rooms start at VND300,000. A coffee shop can be found on the ground floor and the hotel offers airport pickup, bicycle rental, tour information, a laundry service and business centre.

DREAMS HOTEL

CREDIT

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 2098 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com CREDIT 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants CREDIT and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

PRICE RANGE

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL CREDIT

SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING GYM GYM POOL POOL POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat Tel: 063 357 8888 www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat, this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good views, and every modern amenity, including flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3823 2288 www.sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property in Ho Chi Minh City and the first property certified by the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism. Modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class with five–star facilities and service.

CREDIT CARD

COLUMNS DESTINATION ZERO 088 TRAVEL NOTE 092 TRAVEL PROMOS 094

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555 888 www.anamandara-resort.com This luxurious and tranquil sanctuary of relaxation is nestled on the gentle and picturesque slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Offering 65 rooms from 17 original French colonial villas, rates start at just over VND 2 million++ and rise to over VND6 million++ per night. Top-notch services and facilities include a personal butler on call from 7am to 10pm, in-villa dining and the La Cochinchine Spa with a range of holistic and therapeutic treatments.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

THE LANDMARK

PHU QUOC 094 SAPA 095 VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO 095 TRAVEL SERVICES 095

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

JOSEPH’S HOTEL

CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI

BUSINESS

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat Tel: 063 382 2663 www.thesinhtourist.vn You get door–to–door service from Saigon at this budget hotel – it has links with the Sinh Cafe people and this is where their bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it

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$$$ Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Hanoi Tel: 04 6270 6688 www.crowneplaza.com My Dinh’s first five-star property, this 24-storey, mixed use complex lies next to My Dinh National Stadium and close to the National Convention Centre. Boasting 393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two swimming pools and a spa and fitness centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the best meetings and conference facilities in town.

$$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3938 1048 info@josephshotel.com Just on the side of beautiful St. Joseph’s Cathedral, this is a good, comfortable mid–range hotel. Each of the 10 rooms is fitted with cable television, Wi–Fi and a mini bar. The staff is quite helpful and can arrange tours and tickets to many destinations surrounding Hanoi. With room fees starting at $40 a night, and topping out at $50, the small boutique– style hotel offers quite a deal.

FRASER SUITES

MARIGOLD HOTEL HANOI

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Tel: 2226 8855 www.residentvietnam.com Resident Vietnam is the first dedicated relocation company with 11 years of experience in Vietnam and provides full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

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DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3822 6111 www.norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers clients a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steamroom, as well as two on-site restaurants — Shang Palace and Terrazzo Café.

and all have the quality amenities of a proper hotel. Either ADSL or Wi–Fi connections available.

is a fairly basic place to rest those weary feet, but it’s right in the middle of town.

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

DALAT 086 HANOI 086 AROUND HANOI 086 HCMC INTERNATIONAL 089 HCMC DELUXE 089 HCMC MID-RANGE 090 HCMC BUDGET 090 HOI AN & DA NANG 091 HUE & QUANG BINH 092 NHA TRANG 092 PHAN THIET & MUI NE 093

JASMINE COURT

6th Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: 3826 7655 www.jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field.

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LISTINGS

Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 8888 www.intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon is the InterContinental Asiana Saigon Residences with 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area and is part of the brand-new Kumho Link Asiana Plaza, the city’s finest integrated food and beverage complex featuring commercial, residential and luxury shopping arcade. 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh www.jasminecourt.com.vn Located five minutes from Tan Son Nhat International Airport and 15 minutes from the city centre, Jasmine Court is a boutique property with only 12 apartments comprising one and two-bedroom suites of various sizes. Amenities in each apartment include a 32” LCD TV, DVD player and audio system, in-room safe and wireless Internet with broadband connectivity, and a fourfixture en suite with shower.

destination

DESTINATION

playroom, restaurant and laundry.

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$$ 17A Pham Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: 3734 9988 www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com Located only 50 meters away from Hang Cot, the newly built Marigold Hotel Hanoi elegantly combines traditional Vietnamese architecture with a modernised classic facade. The Mimosa Wine Bar & Pub, an Irish bar complete with nightly live Irish music, is located on the top floor, providing excellent views of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.

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$$$$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Quang An, Q Tay Ho Tel: 04 3719 8877 Fax: 04 3719 8811 www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com Strategically located in the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, Fraser Suites is ideal for expatriates who desire a home close to work, and yet offers repose from the bustle of the city. The gold–standard serviced residence is in the Westlake district, an enclave preferred by foreign executives and their families and close to a good selection of quality restaurants, gourmet food shops and decent bars.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 0999 www.hanovahotel.com Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem lake, Maison d’Hanoi provides an elegant respite from the traffic and noise of the city. They have 33 comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and four luxurious suites. All rooms have Wi–Fi access, and the cozy lobby has both a gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from VND2.4 million for a guest room to VND4.4 million for a suite. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

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$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 3928 6969 www.goldensilkhotel.com With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is located in the centre of the Old Quarter, is the only hotel offering a complimentary (free!) daily, replenished minibar and snack basket service in every room. Facilities include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and steam rooms, a comprehensive range of business amenities, the Orient restaurant, serving international and Vietnamese fare and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines and cocktails. CREDIT

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SOFITEL METROPOLE

HANOI BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$ 48 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com The cheapest European–style place in town, with bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers, also has a second hostel at 9 Ma May, Hoan Kiem (Tel: 04 3935 1890) close to all the latenight Old Quarter bars and eating spots. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Joseph’s Hotel

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$$$$ 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambience of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

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AROUND HANOI BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

HANOI HILTON

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$$$$ 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3933 0500 www.hilton.com Located next to the Opera House, this five–star is not to be confused with the famed “Hanoi Hilton” that once housed American POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture is matched by an elegant and spacious inside area. Has all the standard facilities of a top–end hotel as well as an attractive, courtyard pool area. Presently undergoing extensive renovation.

HONG NGOC HOTEL

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$$ 14 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3826 7566 With four locations right in the Old Quarter, this is a good no–frills option close to Hoan Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you with any detail like renting a car, motorbike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact with small but clean bathrooms

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$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong Tel: 0313 880 888 www.pearlriverhotel.vn Located 100km east of Hanoi, the fourstar Best Western Pearl River Hotel is the only internationally branded hotel in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety box, free Internet access, satellite TV and 24-hour room service. Facilities include the Jade restaurant, offering western and Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and fitness centre with separate hot and cold Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relaxation lounge and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY $$$ 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street, Q3 Tel: 3933 0077 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with

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Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service

www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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CUC PHUONG

With untouched jungle, some of Vietnam’s rarest primates and a stunning landscape, Cuc Phuong National Park is well worth the trip. Words and photos by Nick Ross

ne of the attractions of a day trip to Vietnam’s oldest national park is the drive. It’s 120km each way, so it’s quite a journey to do there and back within a day. But shun the Highway 1 route and instead take the Ho Chi Minh trail (Route 21) south from Hoa Lac at the end of the Thang Long Highway, and just the trip itself is worth the ride. The experience starts south of Xuan Mai as you leave the area not-so-affectionately known as Hanoi Hai and cross into Hoa Binh Province. The recently surfaced road is pleasantly devoid of traffic, making it one of the most pleasant to drive on in Vietnam. Add to that the constantly changing vistas of paddies and cornfields, all with a backdrop of heavily forested limestone karsts, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re already driving through the national park. Heading to the park entrance close to Nho Quan, it’s worth taking a side

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trip along Yen Quang Lake. Skirting the mountains that form the edge of Cuc Phuong, this body of water offers a stunning vista of the nature beyond — mountains, water and jungle. Here you can also see its collision with man. A number of cemetery areas line the far side of the lake. Cross one of the ramp-like lanes traversing the water and you will find the path up to Dong Pho Ma Giang, the King’s Son-in-Law Cave.

An Animal Haven The park is famed for its Endangered Primate Rescue Centre, located just by the main entrance. Housing langurs and gibbons it acts as a haven for these increasingly rare mammals native to Vietnam. Rescued mainly from private owners, the idea is to rehabilitate the animals into the wild. It works with some, with most it doesn’t. But with the number of individuals of each of these species

dwindling, the centre plays an important role in their future. Turtles have also come under the conservation mesh, and a second centre was recently opened to house 19 endangered species. As with the primate centre, part of its role is educational — raising awareness and the training of students, the public and rangers. Venture past the entrance area — you can drive — and there are a number of other attractions. 7km, on you come to the Cave of Prehistoric Man. A short 300m walk and climb takes you to a cavern filled with altars. Venture further in and you will discover a network of passages, with bats and other animals thriving in the dark. It’s not for the feint of heart, this place, but for anyone into potholing, this could be a nice little journey. Just remember to bring a torch. Further into Cuc Phuong at the Park Centre in Bong you’ll find trekking paths — the shortest routes are about 7km — 1,000-year-old trees, climb to peaks with views to-die-for, the Palace Cave and tracks leading to two Muong villages. What makes Cuc Phuong stand out from other such areas of natural beauty is not only its variety — there is a range of attractions here — but the way it is set up. The oldest national park in Vietnam, all visitor needs are catered for. From the daredevil trekker through to the laughing, noise-making member of a Vietnamese tour group, the park seems to have something for everyone.

INFORMATION Getting There Buses leave from Giap Bat in Hanoi to Cuc Phuong or nearby Nho Quan five times a day. Alternatively, the drive takes approximately three hours by car or motorbike. Travel agencies such as Buffalo Tours, Handspan and Exotissimo organize trips to the park. Where to Stay There is accommodation within the park. See the website below for information. There are also a number of nha nghi options in Cuc Phuong village. For something a bit more upscale, avoid Cuc Phuong Resort and instead head to Emeralda, 30km away in Van Long. Set up like a traditional Vietnamese village, the architecture, fauna and views make this a perfect place to rest tired feet after a day’s trekking in the park. Travel Information For more information on the park go to www.cucphuongtourism.com or head to the park’s branch office in Hanoi at 24 Tan Ap, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3829 2604.

destination

AIRLINES AIR ASIA www.airasia.com AIR FRANCE 130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn AIR MEKONG 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn AMERICAN AIRLINES 194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com CATHAY PACIFIC 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com EVA AIRWAYS 4th Floor, 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 4488 www.evaair.com JAPAN AIRLINES 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC www.jetstar.com/vn KOREAN AIR 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES 93 Pasteur Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS www.tigerairways.com VIETNAM AIRLINES 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

cruises and local markets. Featuring 214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and one professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, including the pool with swim-up bar overlooking the limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or family holidays.

contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh Tel: 030 384 8006 www.cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and home to the well-known national primate centre, the accommodation here is in modern rooms, stilt houses or detached bungalows. Includes basic amenities and comforts in proportion to prices, which range from VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. Rooms are available at park headquarters, the park centre and on the road linking the two.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

HCMC INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL

DUXTON HOTEL

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$$$$ Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude–cruises.com This comfortable yet accurate reproduction of a 19th–century paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in small but impeccably maintained cabins. They also offer transfers from Hanoi itself. A great, classic experience.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

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$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 018 382 5662 www.vietnam–aventure.com This eco–village in Hoa Binh caters to visitors in search of nature. 30 rooms of varying design in 10 houses are surrounded by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own spa and restaurant.

BUSINESS BUSINESS

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 (Freewheelin’ Tours) info@freewheelin-tours.com www.lavievulinh.com Located 170km northwest of Hanoi and on the banks of Thac Ba Lake, this bamboo-constructed eco lodge close to Yen Bai is situated in one of the most tranquil and visually stimulating areas in Vietnam. Set in a Dao Quan Trang ethnic minority village, accommodation is either in the main stilt-house area or in the rammed earth rooms and starts at VND250,000 per night. Offers a whole host of activities including lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours and walking trips into the surrounding mountains.

MAI CHAU LODGE

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$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 386 8959 www.maichaulodge.com Located in a lush valley home to indigenous Vietnamese minority groups, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is a luxurious alternative to the stilt house homestay accommodation offered close by. Has all the usual western amenities in a beautiful setting and every room has a view of either the mountain, lake, pool or valley.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

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$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 03 3384 8108 www.novotelhalong.com Located three hours from Hanoi, the beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close proximity to major attractions such as bay

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$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1 www.caravellehotel.com The only hotel in Vietnam to make the Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the popular ninth–floor Saigon Saigon bar, Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven floors up and Qi salon and spa. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

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$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxtonhotels.com Right in the middle of town, the Duxton deserves its luxury appellation with all the features the tired business executive needs including pool, gym, spa, bar and fine dining. The rooms and suites are luxurious. Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets.

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EQUATORIAL

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$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777 www.equatorial.com/hcm Only a ten-minute drive from downtown Saigon, this big and businesslike property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting and function rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. Also has some of the biggest banquet facilities in the city and an on-site casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

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$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: 3925 7777 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn A five-star luxury hotel with 334 rooms and suites, and 53 serviced apartments. Offers excellent services and facilities for both business and leisure travellers, including 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity grand ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool and gym, Japanese and Chinese restaurants, an all day dining restaurant, and 24-hours room service. Also provides city shuttles, airport transfers, city tours, currency exchange, limousine service, ticketing and mail services.

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$$$$ Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Intercontinental Asiana Saigon is an exciting destination in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Personalised services await guests in each of the 305 elegantly appointed rooms, including 18 suites and a stylish Presidential Suite. The hotel offers signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LEGEND HOTEL

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$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3823 3333 www.legendsaigon.com You’ll notice the difference when you first enter the lobby here – the architect was in serious atrium mode when he drew up the design. There’s no shortage of space in the rooms, either, and a fine selection of dining, from buffets (the atrium again), to Chinese, Japanese and western.

MOEVENPICK HOTEL SAIGON

$$$$ 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3844 9222 www.movenpick-hotels.com Located a stone’s throw away from Tan Son Nhat International Airport, this tastefully decorated Swiss-run hotel possesses 278 well appointed rooms and suites, five restaurants and bars, meeting and banquet facilities. The shopping arcade, and popular e-gaming centre make this a preferred option for both business and leisure travellers. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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NEW WORLD HOTEL

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PARK HYATT

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$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.newworldsaigon.com Its list of former guests ranges from U.S. presidents – two Bushes, one Clinton – to Korean teeny bop sensation Bi Rain. If Knut the polar bear came to town, he’d probably stay here. It’s an ongoing event as well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier competitors to hold its place as one of the best luxury stops in town CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous–looking hotel in a prime location, with an attractive lobby bar and all the attention to detail you would expect from the Hyatt. But wait, there’s more. The Square One restaurant has garnered an excellent reputation as has the ground floor Italian-themed Opera, and Xuan Spa by the landscaped pool is unbeatable.

RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE

$$$$ 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.renaissance–saigon.com If you’ve never swum in a pool 21 floors up, you could rectify that at this luxury hotel by the Saigon River. As you would expect from a Marriott property, there’s plenty more here to appreciate – the full range of fitness, spa and business facilities plus Kabin, one of the best– regarded Chinese restaurants in the city. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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REX HOTEL

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$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history and still possessing a certain fading charm, the Rex is now mainly populated by tour groups, while for the independent traveller it has been comprehensively overtaken in value terms. But its open–air fifth–floor bar is still one of the must–do experiences of the city, and there is now a great gym and spa area on the sixth floor as well. A recent renovation and the addition of the new wing has seen the entry of the top-end designer brands to the shopping arcade of this now five-star property.

SHERATON

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$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton has bagged one of the best locations in town and made the most of it, with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and first–class facilities topped by an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. The conference and business facilities are unmatched – the enormous ballroom is just one of 17 meeting venues.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3824 1555 www.sofitel.com The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is the ultimate in French lifestyle, comfort and convenience. This 20–story building in downtown CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam? These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

BLOOM MICROVENTURES Soc Son Tel: 0164 3876 594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

FOREST FLOOR LODGE Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 06 1366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

THE AU CO, BHAYA CRUISES

$$$$ Tel: 04 3933 4545 www.aucocruises.com The Au Co offers the first and only continuous three-day voyages in the Gulf of Tonkin. The first-class twin vessels feature state of the art design, each of them containing 32 spacious and luxury cabins, all with private balconies. The onboard cuisine follows a traditional concept and incorporates the five natural elements, with a relaxing jacuzzi and spa treatments and numerous exciting en-route activities.

WINDSOR PLAZA

Nha Trang Tel: 05 8362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

LA VIE VU LINH Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

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BIKE RENTALS

MANGO BAY

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633 www.mianhatrang.com

PAN HOU ECO LODGE VILLAGE RESORT

CHI’S CAFÉ 40/27 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0903 643446 On offer are automatic bikes for VND1,575,000/month and standard bikes for VND1,050,000/month. Bikes are well-maintained and staff helps with any difficulties bike may encounter.

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 38 33 3565 www.panhou-village.com

SIX SENSES NINH VAN BAY Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 05 8372 8222 www.sixsenses.com

NATALIE’S BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0979 992983 Good selection of standard and automatic bikes. Bike delivery available for drop-off and pick-up.

PRICE RANGE $

BELOW VND630,000

VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000

$$$

VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000

SAIGON MOTORBIKE 203 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 2244 4466 www.saigonmotorbike.com Where foreign residents in the know go for long-term bike rentals. Operating in the backpacker area for almost 10 years, Saigon Motorbike stocks a large variety of motorbikes and scooters (including Vespas) at prices that are hard to beat.

$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000

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$$$ 132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201 www.continental–saigon.com Fêted in literature and film, this huge old hotel with huge old rooms stands at the absolute centre of town and is the most classic of the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on charm, and a favourite with tour groups, this would be one of your first choices if you wanted to impress a newcomer to the city.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

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$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn This hotel makes you think of words like classic, traditional, vintage and colonial. Overlooking the Saigon River, and recently renovated to international standard, it retains a unique atmosphere which makes it especially memorable for newcomers to the city. The rest of us just take advantage of its cheap buffet lunches. $$$ 648/65 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 3846 0263 hotel@mamaison.vn Just a short alley from the Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, Ma Maison Boutique Hotel caters to demanding clients of both long–term expats and French art aficionados. The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. Little Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in–house guests on a French farmhouse wood table surrounded by modern leather and ladder–back chairs. Ma Maison provides full services– business centre, internet, housekeeping, laundry, room service and limousine. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

MIA NHA TRANG

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An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

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BUSINESS FACILITIES

86 | Word November 2012

BUSINESS

SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE 25/7 Cuu Long, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 7816 info@saigonscootercentre.com www.saigonscootercentre.com Saigon Scooter Centre stocks a selection of high-end well maintained bikes and classic scooters for short and long term rentals. Vietnam’s only 100% foreign-owned scooter business also offers a one way drop-off service for their bikes and includes helmets, locks and travel packs.

NORFOLK HOTEL

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$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 info@norfolkhotel.com.vn www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Located minutes away from famous landmarks, shops, restaurants and international companies, Norfolk Hotel is a good choice for buisness and leisure travellers. Recently renovated the sleek new design is reflected in the lobby space and in their ground floor bar and steakhouse, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3822 4479 www.novotel.com Novotel Saigon Centre features 247 contemporary rooms, an international buffet restaurant – The Square, a lobby lounge, a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including swimming pool, fitness, sauna and spa. With five meeting rooms and over 400m2 of space that can accommodate up to 350 persons, Novotel Saigon Centre provides expert support teams and facilities that will ensure successful business meetings and events. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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RAMANA HOTEL

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$$$ 323 Le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3843 9999 reservation@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com A four–star business class hotel, The Ramana boasts 293 guestrooms and suites and offers a complete range of service facilities including a business centre, a well–equipped fitness room, an outdoor swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health Club. The hotel is situated in District 3 – an area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2km from the city centre and 3km from the airport.

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$$$ R3–60 Hung Gia 4, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 1000, www.sabena.vn Located on a quiet, tree–lined street in Phu My Hung, the brand–new rooms at Sabena are equipped with all the latest in–room technology perfect for making your room a combined office and home away from home. A good choice for anyone seeking accommodation away from downtown Saigon.

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$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3999 8888, www.starcitysaigon.vn A brand new hotel located near Tan Son Nhat International Airport with 185 guest rooms each with city views and comfortably designed outdoor swimming pool, spa, fitness centre, restaurant, bars and meeting rooms that cater to 400 people.

HCMC MID-RANGE

HOTEL IBIS SAIGON SOUTH

$$ 73 Hoang Van Thai, Phu My Hung, Tan Phu, Q7. Tel: 5410 1111 H7177-RE@accor.com www.ibishotel.com The first International three star hotel in Saigon, Ibis Hotel is within walking distance of global corporate offices, FV hospital, other medical centers and shopping malls. It features 140 stylishly designed rooms with timber floors, complimentary Wi-Fi internet access, a restaurant, bar and three meeting rooms. A free return Ibis scheduled shuttle bus is available from the hotel to major corporate offices as well as into the city center. The open restaurant serves a variety of pasta, grilled food and a touch of Asian cuisine prepared in front of you as you eat. There is something for everyone at affordable prices. There is also an option to create your own recipe from the items listed on the menu. Ibis Saigon South is located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Convention Centre (SECC) and is 15 minutes from the city centre. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 07 7398 1693 www.mangobayphuquoc.com

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restaurants, a sauna, health club and business facilities, and superb panoramic views over the city when you take time off from all the other activities and make it back to your room.

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$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: 3833 6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com Definitely the hotel with the most – its own shopping hub (including a bank), the city’s second biggest discotheque, several

JUNGLE BEACH

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destination Saigon caters to upscale business and leisure travellers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

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KIM DO ROYAL CITY HOTEL

HCMC BUDGET CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

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$ 656 Cach Mang Tham Tam, Q3, Tel: 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm.vnn.vn Though possessing only five rooms, Cam Ly’s hotel section comes very reasonably priced. A double room costs under VND400,000 per night while a large double room and a twin room are both priced at under VND700,000. With 24-hour security, all rooms come with cable television and ADSL Internet access. For cleanliness, comfort and safety, Cam Ly is one of the best no-frills options in the city. See our Business listings for an overview of Cam Ly’s studio apartments.

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HOI AN & DA NANG CUA DAI

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$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 2231 Pleasant, small, family–run hotel with a spacious and faintly colonial air located between the town and the beach, with comfortable air–conditioned rooms and amiable staff.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: 0511 3961 800 www.danangbeachresort.com.vn This resort, 20 minutes away from the airport in Danang, comprises six areas of villas with beachfront, golf and mountain CREDIT CREDITCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA $ 171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885 A place for exchanging views as well

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SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 Take advantage of the free WiFi offered in every room at this venue where you’ll be impressed with the low prices, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few minutes from the street–level mayhem of the Backpackers’ area.

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DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: 8373 699 A place for exchanging views as well as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer. CREDIT CARD

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HONG HOA $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 1915 It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked–away little venue is on a par with anything else in the area – attractive, comfortable, friendly and more. Plus there is free Internet access.

DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992 www.ducvuonghotel.com You’ll need your laptop to take advantage of the free Wi–Fi offered in every room and you’ll probably be impressed with the low price, friendly welcome and well–appointed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a few steps from the street–level mayhem of the backpacker area. CREDIT CARD CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD

as sleeping, with its communal kitchen and TV room, this venue ticks all the right boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanliness and amenities. A stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

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$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5914 www.kimdohotel.com You’ll never have trouble finding your way back here at night – perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the exterior is brightly lit and the interior follows suit. A quality venue where no amenities are lacking – we’re talking executive Jacuzzis here. Use internet bookings to slash the cost of your room.

LAN LAN HOTEL 2

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$$$ 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7926 www.lanlanhotel.com.vn You can’t get much more central than Ben Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one of many in the area) offers every amenity you would expect from a mid–range hotel while keeping its prices close to budget level. The staff are friendly and helpful.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

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$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222 www.thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style boutique hotel and spa with fine dining and spacious gardens on the bank of the Saigon River. Located in Thao Dien Village, also has a number of restaurants on hand including an Italian, Thai and Japanese.

November 2012 Word | 87

destination

destination views, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention and commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

TRAVEL NOTES

FURAMA RESORT & SPA $$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office) www.furamavietnam.com Among the first resorts to open in the country, this venue still scores highly because of its stunning beachside location allied to some indulgent touches – the smallest room measures 40 square metres – and a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

WORDS BY JAMES PHAM

HUY HOANG 1

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Travel Local WHILE IT’S EVERY TRAVELLER’S goal to experience a new destination through the eyes of a local, unless you have friends or family living there, that can be a next-toimpossible task. Happily, in Ho Chi Minh City, there are a few places that aim to turn tourists into locals. SAIGON STREET EATS Recently started by an AussieVietnamese duo of Barbara and Vu, SSE aims to bring Vietnamese street food to visitors, served with a side of culture. Returning to Vietnam after a stint abroad, Barbara remembers, “I realised I wanted to do all my favourite things like eating snails and going to my favourite pho place. So why not try and share all these fantastic places?” Tours are thematic: pho, veggie, seafood or family. The Pho Trail tour takes place in decidedly untouristy Binh Thanh and takes visitors past shops selling Buddha statues, betel nuts and wedding dresses, leading into discussions on Vietnamese religion and customs, often with the twist of seeing things from an expat point of view. Half-day tours start at VND735,000; www.saigonstreeteats.com HO CHI MINH FREE TOURS HCM Free Tours has more than 15 volunteer guides (university students looking to improve their English) who take visitors on a half-day walking itinerary, covering sights such as the Opera House and the People’s Committee Building. Ngan, the group’s administrator says, “Often visitors walk around without understanding much about what they’re seeing or about Vietnamese people”. Tips are not expected but visitors often chip in towards gas money or cover admission costs. As the name implies, tours are free.

www.hochiminhfreetours.wordpress. com

$ 73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An, Tel: 0510 386 1453 Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the city centre, which translates into being an excellent base for exploring the old town. Added to that, you get simple and comfortable rooms for around VND400,000.

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SAIGON COOKING CLASS Ben Thanh Market is known for being iconic and kitschy but in reality, is a living, breathing market for locals as well. Ilda, SCC’s managing director says, “Ben Thanh is the central ‘first served’ market so all the freshest ingredients are there.” An Englishspeaking chef leads the one-hour tour and takes advantage of longstanding relationships with sellers who patiently answer questions about everything from odd-looking fruits to the myriad uses of the lotus plant. The unfettered access to otherwise sullen vendors alone may already be worth the cost of the cooking class. Half-day classes including market tour start at VND955,500; www. saigoncookingclass.com COUCHSURFING The ultimate way to travel like a local may be to couchsurf. There are nearly 3,000 hosts registered in Ho Chi Minh City, the vast majority of them local Vietnamese. While the premise implies simply somewhere to spend a few nights, hosts often spend time with surfers, showing them the sights or sharing a home-cooked meal. My Pham, a long-time CS host says, “We usually just hang out or have dinner at a local restaurant. If they’re travelling alone, I can even take them on my motorbike to places like the Cu Chi Tunnels or the Cao Dai temple.” Tony Huynh who has hosted about 50 surfers adds, “I show them bus routes so they can get around or take them clubbing or shopping. It’s all about friendships and meeting new people.” Even for those not looking for accommodation, the CS forum is a great place to meet up with enthusiastic locals. Setting up an account to host or surf is free at www.couchsurfing.org

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$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 0511 398 1234 www.danang.regency.hyatt.com Located 15 minutes by car from Da Nang International Airport, the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is situated on a stretch of beach with a view of the ocean and the Marble Mountains. Has 200 guestrooms featuring modern designs with oversized balconies and floor to ceiling windows. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private Ocean Villas, each with a private pool. INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT $$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang Tel: 0511 393 8888, info@icdanang.com www.intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Danang is nestled within one of the region’s most exquisite locations. All 197 of the resort’s rooms, suites and beachfront villas are designed to take full advantage of their location and panoramic South China Sea views. Large terraces and shuttered windows elevate private living spaces that draw in the surrounding jungle and crystal bay, and add depth to the already large rooms that start from 70sqm.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

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LIFSTYLE RESORT DA NANG

$$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang Tel: 511 3958 888 www.lifestyle-resort-danang.com Located on Bac My An Beach, Lifestyle Resort Da Nang is family-friendly resort. The design of the guest rooms and amenities, quality of the food, ambience of the bar and restaurant and the dedication of service of the resort’s staff has all been carefully designed to immerse guests in luxury and seclusion. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

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MERCURE DANANG

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$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: 0511 379 7777 www.mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang is only 10 minutes from the International Airport. Consisting of 272 modern and stylish rooms reflecting local Vietnamese culture, all rooms feature ocean or mountain views. The hotel offers all day dining at their brasserie as well as a Chinese restaurant and lobby bar and lounge. Conference facilities are available as is a private spa, treatment rooms, tennis court and fitness centre. The hotel offers complimentary shuttle to the city centre and Danang Beach.

THE NAM HAI

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$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 394 0000, www.ghmhotels.com Setting the standard for luxury resorts in Vietnam, The Nam Hai is the ultimate relaxation space. Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This is just the tip of the iceberg. Each massive room comes with its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas, spa villas and pool villas complexes are also available for rent and each villa has a view of the sea. A great place to forget about the city.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT & SPA CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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Cua Dai Beach, Tel: 0510 392 7040 www.victoriahotels.asia Pull up some (private) beach and relax at this unique and charming resort, which has been laid out to replicate a traditional fishing village with small streets, ponds and village houses. The Annam Asian restaurant overlooks the sea, there’s also a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and fitness centre.

HUE & QUANG BINH ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 www.angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage with views of the shimmering East Sea. Providing a complete and elaborate vacation experience, from exceptional accommodation and entertaining activities to excellent dining options, the property is conceptualised in tribute to the rich culture and heritage of Vietnam. Traditional Vietnamese aesthetic and design elements can be found throughout the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

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$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 0510 354 5105 www.domainedetamhai.com Located to the south of Hoi An, if you’re looking for something a bit different, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai, with just a dozen traditional–looking (but modern) villas with private gardens and true tropical ambience may be the answer. There is an endless beach, a swimming pool, and a restaurant to take advantage of the fresh seafood.

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leafy and well-appointed resort is located close to the charm and bustle of the Old Town and maintains an emphasis on wellness and pampering. Its spa combines the benefits of traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

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$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: 0510 391 4555 www.life–resorts.com Recently refurbished, this award–winning

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dynastic periods, the main buildings and villas are built with integrated clay-tiled pitched roofs, open courtyards and wood rafter ceilings in the style of the traditional houses of Hue.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

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$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6567 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa, this is the cheapest European–style place in town. Has bunk–style beds in mixed or single–sex dorms starting from VND120,000 a night plus a small selection of double and twin rooms for VND800,000. A place to meet like–minded travellers.

IMPERIAL HUE

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$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 054 388 2222 www.imperial–hotel.com.vn One of the best hotels in the city, and certainly in the most convenient downtown location, this high–rise hotel has luxurious rooms with great city views, a selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa. You can even hire your own butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million++ for a deluxe city view room.

LA RESIDENCE

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$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 383 7475 www.la–residence–hue.com Built around a core of the former colonial governor’s mansion, and maintained in a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s unique experiences. With ceiling fans and dark–stained wood furnishings, this is traditional art deco Indochine at its best. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you have a heady mix.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6736 A budget option which offers a reliable and acceptable level of comfort for the sub–VND400,000 price with the additional benefit of being near the Perfume River and having attentive service.

RUSTIC CHAY LAP

$ Chay Lap Village, Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Quang Binh www.chaylap.org Situated on a peanut and maize farm on the doorstep of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, this eco lodge and farm offers homestay-style accommodation in the middle of a rural, ethnic minority Vietnamese environment. Activities include biking, kayaking, trekking, caving and chilling out in the shadow of some of the most spectacular limestone karst scenery that this country has to offer. Booking needs to be made through tour operators - email chaylap@gmail.com for details or check out the website.

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best run hotels in town.

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$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang Tel: 058 352 2222 www.sixsenses.com/evason–anamandara– nhatrang There’s a generous 2.6 hectares of private beachside garden to get lost in here, and much to marvel at, with villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

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$$ My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh Tel: 052 384 2999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com Three hours north of Hue, this top–end resort offers elegant, comfortable pool villas and bungalows, and is the only luxury accommodation in Quang Binh. An ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.

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$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north of Nha Trang), Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded – almost deserted – promontory north of Nha Trang, with accommodation ranging from comfortable guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo shelters, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature – certainly a change from mainstream tourism. The owners arrange pick–up from Nha Trang and the down–to–earth resort maintains a deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821 633, www.mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary of rest and relaxation is set on its own private beach. Based on eco-friendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs instead of tiles or differing roof coverings, enhancing the environmental appeal. The 50-seaview rooms are split between luxurious villas and condominiums that blend contemporary living with slight Indochina influences. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com/Six–Senses–Hideaway– Ninh–Van–Bay The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this its top hotel of 2006, and it’s not hard to see why. The location is stunning, on a bay which can only be reached by boat, and all the accommodation, amenities and facilities are top–drawer. So, naturally, is the price. Internet rates start at around VND15 million for a beach pool villa.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL & SPA

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$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: 058 388 0000 www.sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front hotel with 284 sea view rooms and suites, complimented by six restaurants and bars. The hotel also has a Sheraton Club Lounge with spectacular views, Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool with infinity edge and reflection pool area, a fitness centre, a kid’s club, a business centre and a cooking school. For great view of the city, head up on high to the rooftop bar.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL & SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 382 0999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn With various awards, including being listed in the World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009 by Expedia, and in view of the current facilities, location and its anticipated strong branding and service from the heart, Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa is ideal for the medium to higher end individual leisure and corporate travellers. All rooms have a view of the sea. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 058 625 6900 rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com This attractive four-star hotel is centrally located with 154 guestrooms, each with terrace and sea view, offering a pool, spa and restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. One of the CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ Tel: 058 384 0501, www.whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island some 60km north of Nha Trang has been made into a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and plenty of opportunity for serious nature watching, with abundant marine life and an array of birds. On-site seafood restaurant and bar.

WHITE SAND DOCLET RESORT & SPA

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$$$ Dong Cat, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa District Tel: 058 3670 670 www.whitesandresort.com.vn Overlooking the ocean and a 600–metre beach front, this four–star resort has 54 rooms, four restaurants including one where you can pick fresh seafood and then have it cooked, a swimming pool and a spa. Service is both professional and friendly.

PHAN THIET & MUI NE ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 3743 777, www.allezboo.com This resort offers exotic and luxurious accommodation including two Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas and 55 spacious suites and deluxe rooms. Fresh seafood, Vietnamese specialities, Thai food and international cuisine are served in their many dining areas. The resort also offers outdoor activities including kitesurfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

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$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7322, www.blueoceanresort.com

Viet Nam

Phan Thiet - Mui Ne Bay Tel.: +(84) 62 384 71 11 / 2 Fax.: +(84) 62 384 71 15

paradise@cocobeach.net www.cocobeach.net

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 www.banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a unique crescent bay offering privacy and unparalleled exclusivity, Banyan Tree Lang Co is the most luxurious edition of the resort and hotel collection in the Laguna Lang Co complex. Designed and conceptualised to attract the wellheeled and knowledgeable traveller, the five-star, all-pool villa resort is a destination in itself. Reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese

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travel Promos destination

HOTEL EQUATORIAL Hotel Equatorial is currently offering a “day spa box” Equinox package consisting of azial moisturising body oil, azial incense cones, an azial-scented pouch and a 60-minute body massage. The Equinox Gift Box is available for VND1,218,000 and will complement the hotel’s in-house spa experience with continued well-being once you return home. www.equatorial.com NOVOTEL NHA TRANG For the month of November, Vous Spa in the Novotel Nha Trang is featuring a winter package hot stone massage to restore balance and re-energise your body, followed by one of your options: foot reflexology, body scrub, manicure, pedicure to complete your experience — VND1,190,000 per two hour treatment. www.novotel-nhatrang.com

WINTER DEALS AT VAN CHAI Located in Sam Son, a short 8km drive from Thanh Hoa City, Van Chai are offering a special winter promotion package. Costing just VND3.1 million for a three-day, two-night stay for two people, the deal includes an upgrade to an Ocean View room, breakfast, a set dinner at the resort’s Ngu Ong restaurant and a complimentary foot massage. Designed with traditional Vietnamese architecture in mind, Van Chai is nestled in a pine tree forest and sits on the edge of the East Sea with its own private beach. All making for the perfect getaway from the big city. For more information please call the Hanoi sales office on 04 3717 2438 or email cdm@ vanchai-vn.com FLY TO THE BAY Taking the bus from Hanoi to

destination

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Ha Long isn’t fun in anyone’s book, and now you don’t have to. Au Co Cruises have a better idea than an early start and rush hour traffic, it’s called a helicopter. Now the trip only takes 45 minutes and boasts much better views. A luxury car chaperones guests from their hotel to Gia Lam airport where a chopper awaits. Armand Cheveux from Au Co Cruises reckons “the helicopter trip is quick, easy, convenient, and safe — it’s definitely the best way to enjoy every minute of a trip to Halong Bay.” Few would argue that he’s wrong. Fewer still will ever know for sure. The helicopter can accommodate up to 10 passengers and can be yours for just US$16,000 for a round trip. That’s VND336 million to you and me. For inquiries email sales@ bhayacruises.com

After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean Resort is now under the management of Life Resorts. Its new luxury makeover includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar as well as a children’s activity playground. Another new addition is an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

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$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 384 7111 www.cocobeach.net The place that put Phan Thiet on the map is still one of the best options for a stay, with charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant. Coco Beach is continues to be run by the European management team that began it all in 1995.

spa, beauty salon and Jacuzzi right on the private beach. An excellent place to stay located just before you reach the main stretch of resorts in Mui Ne.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

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$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 062 3741 660, www.villaariamuine.com The newest boutique beach resort in Phan Thiet, Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service with only 22 spacious guestrooms and one suite. Using only natural amenities in every room for a luxury experience, the resort includes a nice pool overlooking the beachfront, an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine and more.

PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT

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$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne Tel: 062 384 7440/2 www.miamuine.com Set on one acre of manicured lawns and lush gardens, this luxurious haven of rest and tranquillity offers four different accommodation types, all featuring en suite bathrooms, cable TV, IDD telephone, safe box and air conditioning. Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows looking out to the South China Sea. The resort’s Xuan Day spa offers a selection of therapeutic body treatments while the beachfront Sandals restaurant serves a blend of dishes from the Mediterranean and Pacific Rim.

DU PARC PHAN THIET OCEAN DUNES & GOLF RESORT

$$$ 1 Ton Duc Thang, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 3822 393 www.phanthietresorts.com This resort offers access to a first–class international golf course designed by golf legend Nick Faldo. Great food and service is offered in this 123–room escape destination featuring private balconies with ocean or golf view. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT & SPA

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$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 062 368 2222 www.princessannam.com One of the few all–villa luxury boutique resorts in Vietnam, Princess d’Annam is set on Ke Ga Bay, about a four–hour drive from Ho Chi Minh City and 35km south of Phan Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country. It’s definitely one of the most exclusive.

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$$$ Khu 1, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 062 374 3237, www.shadesmuine.com Top quality resort offering a small selection of luxury and attractively designed apartments and studios right on the beach with fully equipped and modern units. Entertainment options include windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars, bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a decent pool and good dining options. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island Tel: 077 398 6142 www.boresort.com, booking@boresort.com Conceived and operated by a French– Vietnamese couple, BO Resort lies on the west of Phu Quoc and is quiet, low–key and secluded. An eco–lodge concept, there are no televisions or air–con and future plans include hot water by solar panels. 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. Bathrooms are tropical, open–air style. The beachside restaurant is well–known and includes traditional Vietnamese cuisine based on fresh seafood and products, prepared with an unmistakable classic ‘French touch.’

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$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 062 381 3000 www.victoriahotels.asia Part of the Victoria chain which has properties in Vietnam and Cambodia, this high–end resort with thatched–roof bungalows and family villas is set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a top–end seafood restaurant, and a

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: 0773 995895 reservation@chenla–resort.com Open since November 2008, this Italian-run, 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first–class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant. One of the few top-end properties on Phu Quoc. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773982988, contact@laverandaresort.com Boutique luxury among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery branded La Veranda has beautifully– designed rooms with cool tiles in traditional designs and dark woods, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant overlooking the beach. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002 Secluded budget bungalow–style resort which lies in a beachside coconut palm plantation with small basic bungalows adding to the castaway effect. The restaurant serves fresh seafood. It’s laid– back and simple. And cheap.

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$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 090 338 2207 www.mangobayphuquoc.com A getaway in the true sense, combining an eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location. Wildlife abounds on land and in the sea, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, and there are no TVs and telephones around (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar, which also serves up tasty, home-cooked Vietnamese food in the restaurant on the edge of the sea.

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$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 020 387 1218 Notable for having probably the best view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of steps leads to the block of rooms, most of which have big windows and balconies, and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 064 3781 631 www.sanctuary.com.vn Just 45 minutes north of Vung Tau, the classical but contemporary elegance and refined atmosphere of this leafy villa complex provides guests with a home away from home. Perfect for renting with groups of friends or as an extended family, the spacious villas each come with their own pool and many have direct access to the beach. Facilities include tennis courts, water sports, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

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$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 020 387 2404 www.topas–eco–lodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, the only place to stay in Sapa is the Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges are located on the hills overlooking the valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility give it eco–cred. Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours. It takes over an hour to get from Sapa to the lodge; transportation is provided.

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CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

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$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 077 398 0998 www.beachclubvietnam.com A small and popular guesthouse located 15 minutes south of the airport offering simple yet well-appointed accommodation with rooms at VND630,000 and bungalows at VND840,000 per night. Features a beachside restaurant and includes free WIFI. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

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GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ Tel: 020 387 1522, www.victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria is not priced for the backpacker (rooms range from VND2.8 million per night). The many amenities include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers and safes, and a hilltop health club, tennis court and pool. The entire resort is tastefully decorated with panoramic views of the town below.

VUNG TAU, HO TRAM & CON DAO BINH AN VILLAGE

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SWIMMING GYM GYM GYM POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

CON DAO RESORT

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$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 064 3830 939 www.condaoresort.vn Seated at the heart of Con Son Island on the edge of the main town, this beachfront resort is a good option thanks to its reasonable pricing and coconut-shaded sand. Has the standard range of mod cons.

GRAND HOTEL

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$ 2 Nguyen Du, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 6888 www.grand.oscvn.com This four-star iconic property stands proudly along the tree–lined seafront and has added modern amenities to its spacious rooms, along with a large restaurant, first–floor bar, fitness centre and business facilities.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT & SPA

$$$$ Tel: 064 378 1525 info@hotramresort.com www.hotramresort.com Located along the coastal road in Ba Ria– Vung Tau Province, this attractive, Hoi Anstyled property is the ideal getaway from CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING

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SWIMMING SWIMMING GYM GYM GYM POOL POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS BUSINESS POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

www.budget.com.vn Chauffeur–driven and self–drive vehicles (for local license holders) from one of the world’s best–known car rental companies. With a kiosk at the airport and drivers trained in a range of driving, cultural and language skills, mileage–free car hire starts at VND1.2 million.

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CREDITCARD CARD CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING SMOKING

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SWIMMING SWIMMING GYM GYM GYM POOL POOL SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING BUSINESS BUSINESS POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 9170 travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips, customises leisure and corporate travel plans around the world and in Vietnam while offering a selected range of small group tours.

COME & GO VIETNAM

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 385 2135 www.rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge. Rooms start at VND900,000.

195/14, D1, Q Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 3281 hello@comeandgovietnam.com Friendly, responsive British–run tour operator offering high–quality, innovative tailor made tours in and around Vietnam to suit most budgets. Come & Go pride themselves on originality so if you’re tired of the usual Vietnam products, they’re definitely worth a try. They also offer a fast and efficient flight ticketing service.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

DALAT EASY RIDER

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Tel : 064 3831 222 www.sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao/ The first five-star resort on the Con Dao archipelago, this unique property pays homage to the remoteness of its natural environment by being deliberately sandwiched between the sea, beach, mangrove and mountains behind. 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay here, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage. CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BARSMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING

GYM GYM GYM GYM GYM GYMSWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING SWIMMING POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL POOL BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS BUSINESS

TRAVEL SERVICES

CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT CREDIT

CREDIT CARDCREDIT CREDIT CREDIT RESTO-BAR CARD CARD CARD RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR RESTO-BAR SMOKING

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 064 335 1553 www.binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this glamorous, Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has a calming and elegant boutique atmosphere. Has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining and a bar strategically located on the cliff to watch the sunset.

BUDGET RENT–A–CAR

ACCOR ADVANTAGE PLUS

7th floor 28 Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 1000 The number one hotel loyalty membership in Asia Pacific. Members enjoy fantastic savings on dining and the best accommodation rates at over 340 Accor Hotels throughout Asia Pacific. Join now and save.

ASIANATRAVEL MATE CO. LTD

113C Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6678 92-94-96 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 0615 www.asianatravelmate.com An active supporter of the Loreto Program, AsianaTravel Mate Co. Ltd. is a tourist information company that offers a wide range of customised itineraries, tour packages, and hotel & cruise reservations throughout Indochina, as well as daily departure tours in Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, known as Deluxe Group Tours. The company also operates three deluxe cruises in Ha Long Bay.

AZA ADVENTURE TOURS AND TRAVEL

S67-1 Rock Climbing Gym, Sky Garden 3, Q7 Tel: 5410 5523 www.azaadventuretours.com AZA Adventure Tours and Travel specialises in adventure and education tourism, providing consulting and custom travel arrangements and packages to the Philippines and other countries in Asia. AZA seeks to connect adventure travel newcomers and veterans with service providers, adventure activities, and accommodations that fit the client’s desires, budget and skill level.

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat vndalateasyrider@yahoo.com www.dalat–easyrider.com.vn Bespoke motorbike tours from the original Easy Rider group based in Dalat. With over 70 guides, all speaking English, tourists can either ride on the back of a bike with their guide or can hire their own bikes. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands and you can even venture as far as Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Email for further information. Note: insurance is not included. Price is generally VND800,000 to VND1 million per day depending on how far you travel.

EXOTISSIMO

64 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 2911 dongdu@exotissimo.com SC4-1 My Khanh 3, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2761 - Ext 113 pmh@exotissimo.com 41 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3 5194 111 - Ext 17 I anphu@exotissimo.com www.exotissimo.com Everything you could wish for under one roof from this professional agency. An upmarket operation operating through Southeast Asia, which aims to bring you up close to the cultures of the area through personalised tours across the region, which may include insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. Excellent service. Travel desks at Sofitel Plaza Saigon and New World Hotel open from 7.30am to 9pm every day.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 7744 info@flightravelco.com www.flightravelco.com Flight travel is an associated partner of Hogg Robinson Group (HRG) in Vietnam providing a range of travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLIPPER DIVING CLUB PHU QUOC

60 Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong, Phu Quoc Tel: 0939 402 872, www.flipperdiving.com A PADI 5-star dive resort with fully experienced and certified scuba diving staff that speak English, French, Dutch, German, Spanish, Russian, Swedish, Norwegian and Vietnamese. Established in 2009, Flipper Diving Club offers

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out & about

LISTINGS

FLY VIETNAM

www.flyvietnam.com booking@flyvietnam.com An online air ticket reservation and travel agent in Vietnam providing information, pricing, availability, and booking facilities for domestic and international air travel, railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses, and car rentals. Also organises travel insurance, coach tours and visas. 270 De Tham, Q1 One of the first tourist companies to set up shop in De Tham, Kim Travel has bussed hundreds of thousands of tourists up and down Vietnam. Destinations include Hanoi, Nha Trang, Hoi An and Hue along with other tours.

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne Tel: 0908 400 108 www.mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes with national and international guidelines for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation. Group rates and corporate event packages are also available.

ONE WORLD

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1 Tel: 6675 2620 A local inbound tour operator specialising in boutique tours around Vietnam. We provide economy, luxury, packages and Taylor–made tours, including flexibility to allow our customers to explore at their pace and will. 91/10 Tran Quoc Hoan, Tan Binh Tel: 3984 4754 info@terraverdetravel.com If cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Halong Bay is your kind of thing, then this company’s range of customised cultural and soft adventure tours might suit. It caters to travellers interested in making a positive impact on the lives of the people whose regions they visit.

ALLEZ BOO+ AC

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60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 071 3752 436 www.tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Tu Trang Travel offers services such as trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc and Phnom Penh, and between Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc. Email: sales@tutrangtravel. com. AC

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE AC

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SMOKING

www.vietnamvespaadventure.com From the people behind Zoom Café, Vietnam Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English speaking tour leaders lead the way, contact shawn@vietnamvespaadventure. com for more details. WIFI

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APOCALYPSE NOW+ AC AC

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 28/4 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 6656 6338 bostonpizzavn@gmail.com 24 hours This inviting, all-hours-god-sends multistorey restobar with its rectangular, bare-brick bar area is the only place in the Backpackers’ District showing all the

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DELIVERY DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC 2 2 HAPPY HAPPYHOUR HOUR DJ

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DJDJ

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HARD TECHNO 79 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3824 2525 8.30pm to 2.30am This Singaporean-run super club, located in the Dai Nam hotel, is just as popular with the locals as it is with the foreigners. A friendly, communal atmosphere and attentive service helps Gossip to stand out from its contemporaries. As expected, tinnitusinducing levels of techno and house music blare throughout the two-tiered club with a large, raised dancefloor that fills out instantly. ‘Dress to impress’ is the nature of the clientele here so don’t turn up in shorts and flip-flops. The entrance fee is VND120,000.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

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28Bis Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3829 0585 www.hoavien.vn 8am to midnight Set in the same building as the Czech Consulate and decorated in wood panelling and brass finishing, this enormous Czech-styled bierkeller popular with stout burghers from both the local and expatriate communities was the first microbrewery in town (1995) and remains one of the best. The excellent home–brewed Hoavener beer, which comes in dark, red or blonde, is served out of huge steins and is complemented by a food menu that mixes Vietnamese fare with Central European staples such as schnitzels, wurst and much more.

ICE BLUE AC

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EXPAT BAR / DART 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2664 3pm to 1am Despite its slightly run down veneer and

smoky but lively atmosphere, Ice Blue remains a popular haunt for many of the city’s older expats as well as a not–so–regular crowd of tourists. Known for its amicable service and lively, beer-drinking ambience, this long-running waterhole is also famed for its darting prowess, with two well set-up dart boards claiming pride of place.

LA HABANA AC

ACWIFI

+ + +++ WIFI SMOKING AC AC AC SMOKING DELIVERY WIFI WIFIWIFI DELIVERY DELIVERY SMOKING SMOKING SMOKING 2 DELIVERY HAPPY DELIVERY DELIVERY HOUR 2 DELIVERY HAPPY LIVE DELIVERY HOUR MUSIC DELIVERY DELIVERY 2 LIVE 2HAPPY LIVE MUSIC 2 HAPPY MUSIC HOUR HAPPY HOUR LIVE HOUR LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC DJ LIVE MUSIC MUSIC LIVE DJ LIVE MUSIC LIVE MUSIC MUSIC

DJ DJ DJ

CUBAN/SPANISH 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am If it's mojitos and well-mixed cocktails you want, spiced up with nightly live music and a Latin atmosphere, La Habana is the place. Run by a Chinese-German couple, this attractive, long-running Cuban bar and restaurant is one of the few watering holes in the Thai Van Lung / Le Thanh Ton area to serve up a regular dose of all things live. Also has HB beer on tap, an excellent food menu and weekly salsa classes. AC

LAVISH+

LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC SMOKING MUSIC AC

DJ DELIVERY DJDJ WIFI

DELIVERY SMOKING2

HAPPY DELIVERY HOUR

+ LIVE DELIVERY ACMUSIC2

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DELIVERY DJ 2

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 0933 998389 9pm to late With its illusory and decorative style, shisha pipes, eye-catching laser displays, and impressive DJ sets, Lavish is a prime place to both unwind and live it up on the weekends. The hanging chandeliers and red velvet curtains exude a luxurious vibe that’s also reflected in the drinks prices. However, on Ladies’ Night every Tuesday from 8.30pm to 11pm, ladies can enjoy two free drinks such as cocktails, beers and soft drinks.

LE PUB AC

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DJDJ

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 7679 www.lepub.org 9am to 1am daily Swathed in deep red with dark wooden seating and attractive, art-themed décor, Le Pub remains one of the best restobars

SMOKING AC

in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly service, good atmosphere and tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Prices are reasonable, too. Shows the live sport, has a Tuesday night pub quiz and also runs daily specials on drinks.

international fare includes Irish stew, Cajun chicken, panini merguez, tasty pizzas, comfort pub grub and the to-die-for zesty beef roll-ups. Also has a great selection of whiskeys and an upstairs pool table.

LONG PHI+

LIVE ACMUSIC

LIVE WIFI MUSIC

LUSH+

SMOKING LIVE MUSIC DJ

DELIVERY LIVE MUSIC

46–48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 0796 www.phattysbar.com 9am to midnight Taking over from where the original Café Latin finally failed, the attractive Phatty’s has become the Australian-themed sports bar with its myriad of large screens and beerguzzling but homely atmosphere. Showing all the live sport — from international cricket through to Aussie Rules, Rugby and even the occasional soccer (football) game — the punters also have access to an excellent pub grub menu taking in anything from hot dogs, sandwiches and burgers through to excellent grill options, pizzas and international mains.

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PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, 5pm to late With its downstairs tear-shaped bar and lounge-style seating running right up to the bar space, Lush may not have a dedicated dance floor. But when it comes to all things progressive, this often controversial venue remains one of the city’s leading lights. Overseas DJs, ladies’ nights on Tuesdays and a cosmopolitan clientele merge seamlessly with the red velvet and cartoon-style decor to create one of the city’s iconic bars. Also has a more chilled bar space out back.

O BRIEN’S AC

ACWIFI AC

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FRENCH / RESTOBAR #003 / 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 2704 6pm to very late, Tuesday to Sunday Now in its third incarnation, the Frenchrun Long Phi has been serving the Backpacker’s Area since the late 1990s and has swathes of mainly Gallic regulars to prop up the bar. Not to say that this place only caters for the French community – far from it. But Ricard and other similar fare including the excellent cuisine (sold until the early hours) are very much in evidence here. Occasional live music.

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DJDJ

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3829 3198 11am to 1am. Sundays 4pm to 1am One the city’s longest serving bars, this well-ordered, two-storey Irish-themed watering hole sports a copper-topped bar area, bare-brick walls, dark wooden seating and good service to boot. Known for its excellent food menu, the

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PURPLE JADE

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DJ DJ DJ

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Purple Jade is a great place to catch up with friends or business partners or simply just to relax and enjoy great drinks. If you find yourself being overly particular about your choice of tipple, pull yourself together and ask the bartender for a cold beer with a shot of good liquor on the side.

QING AC

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WINE BAR / ASIAN FUSION CUISINE 110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 2979 Saigon’s first wine bar, this slither of a place mixes dark brown and maroon décor with bar-style seating and comfortable dining areas out front and at the back. An extensive new and old world wine list is, of course, part of the offering, as is an awesome pan-Asian fusion menu boasting Asian tapas (from VND85,000), international fusion mains (from VND185,000) and

DECIBEL LOUNGE

HAPPY HOUR AC LIVE AC MUSIC WIFIWIFI LIVE MUSIC SMOKING SMOKINGDJ DELIVERY DELIVERY

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MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202 dorutudose@gmail.com 9.30am to 1am Swathed in greys, cream and dull brown, this bar and café has the feel of an underground-style watering hole, the type you may find in London or New York. Run by a well-known, locally based DJ, the decks and mixing board take centre stage here, with a range of turntablists taking to the stand at night. Also a good place to hang out during the day — the Mediterranean-influenced food menu includes crostini, salads, pastas and a good selection of breakfast fare. Does takeaway Lavazza coffee.

DELIVERY 2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 212 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9946 www.crazybuffalosaigon.com 24 hours This hard-to-miss Backpackers’ Area restobar, terrace and nightclub declares itself loud and bold with its massive, snorting buffalo signage, a symbol that has undoubtedly appeared in thousands of photos of Saigon. A daytime happy hour, pizza, pasta, Asian cuisine and international mains make up the mix, with the beats pumping on the first floor until late.

DJDJ

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ+

DELIVERY

CRAZY BUFFALO

AUSTRALIAN / SPORT 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 3483 www.bluegeckosaigon.com 4.30pm to midnight Although run by a Vietnamese couple, this boozy, outback-themed sports pub just off the main drag is quintessentially Australian. The down-to-earth atmosphere is added to by a great pool table, darts and all the live sports, with a particular focus (not surprisingly) on Aussie Rules and Rugby. Also shows the Premier League. One of the longest running watering holes in town.

BOSTON SPORTS BAR

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LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 5.30pm to late Set above Gloria Jean’s just behind Diamond Plaza, this two-floor venue with an upstairs terrace and garden space comes from the same people who created Velvet. It marks the latest trend in Vietnamese bars — stylish, comfortable decor, an extensive wine menu to complement the cocktails and top-shelf spirits, and music played at a volume still conducive to conversation. A place to be seen.

+ LIVE LIVE AC MUSIC MUSIC

MIXED POP MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 2C Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3825 6124 7pm to 2am One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, the foreigner orientated Apo nonetheless draws in a healthy mix of tourists, expats and locals who intermingle on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace every night of the week. Now charging a VND150,000 entrance fee on Fridays and Saturdays (which includes a free drink), the DJs here cater to the more populist side of music. Cue mainstream hits by the Black Eyed Peas, Usher and golden oldies by Wham!, Bon Jovi and even The Smiths (on occasion!). A place for singles to meet singles and lonely hearts to get less lonely.

+ SMOKING LIVE MUSIC DJ

AIRCONDITIONING AC

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92 | Word November 2012

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ICONS 101

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TECHNO / HIP HOP Windsor Plaza Hotel, 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 3833 6688 9pm to late Once the largest nightclub in Vietnam, this 2000-capacity venue is located in the An Dong Plaza complex in District 5. Pumping out 30,000 watts of sound, this club also possesses one of the loudest

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AMERICA DISCOTHEQUE+

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 195 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 6291 5424 info@allezboo.com 24 hours Summery, Ibiza-style beats rock through this recently refurbished Backpackers’ Area icon, mixing in with the bamboostyle décor, deep red walls and ethnic minority upholstery and place settings. Serving a mixture of Thai and western cuisine (from VND80,000 to VND140,000 a dish), the late-night party atmosphere is bolstered by the first-floor DJ pumping out tunes into the early hours.

TU TRANG TRAVEL

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nightclub sound systems in the city. A popular nightspot for the local and Viet Kieu crowd, with resident and guest DJs playing thumping dance and techno tunes and a separate room for those who prefer hip hop and R&B. Expect to pay the usual nightclub prices for drinks, but look out for the regular specials on bottles of spirits.

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 4pm to 1am. Fridays and Saturday until 2am. Contemporary international décor blends seamlessly with local themes to create the most lavish but tastefully designed bar in the city. It may mean you have to pay fivestar prices – the cocktails here go for over VND200,000 – but the monied-up punters still come in their droves. Easy listening, dance-style music plays over the sound system while drinks go from a range of Martini-base cocktails through to spirits by the bottle and 15 wines by the glass.

TERRAVERDE

COLUMNS FOODIE CORNER 104 CAFE CRITIQUE 110 FOOD PROMOS 112

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Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 7am to 1am Composed of The Conservatory, a daylight-drenched loft area, The Salon, a plush living room with baroque and exotic accents, The Cigar Room and The Library, with its sleek champagne tasting counter, the Boudoir Lounge is a haven for executives and lounge adepts alike. Live International DJs perform Fridays and Saturdays. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées. AC

2 LAM SON

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering day tours, short breaks and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE+

RESTAURANTS SOUTHEAST ASIAN 110 RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 111

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in the Backpackers’ Area. Popular with tourists and expats searching for latenight drinking and dancing options, the food menu includes Thai, Vietnamese and western cuisine with mains costing between VND75,000 and VND110,000. DJs bang out the beats upstairs until late.

live sport. And here we certainly mean the word ALL. TV screens are everywhere. Also in the mix is the coldest aircon in town, reasonable (although slightly pricey) pub food and friendly female staff.

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 096 CAFES 098 RESTAURANTS - CHINESE 100 RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 100 RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 101 RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 102 RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 108 RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN 108

KIM TRAVEL

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

out & about

OUT & ABOUT

international scuba diving insurance for all customers and each instructor carries additional scuba diving insurance. Contact them now to learn more about diving in Phu Quoc.

LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC DJ

ECLECTIC LOUNGE BAR 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 6271 0115 www.decibel.vn 7am to 12am An eclectic atmosphere that combines many different flavours, deciBel is open to anyone looking for something different. Situated in the centre of Saigon in an old house, the lounge holds a range of music and artistic events with friendly service and reasonable prices. Food is also available as well as a roster of local and international artists playing live acoustic music and spinning away on the decks. Cocktail happy hour is from 5pm until 7pm every day and Wednesday is international movie night.

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TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.club@yahoo.com 7pm to late One of the smaller nightclubs to grace Saigon, the neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese set. Blaring techno and dance music envelopes the dance floor as large fruit platters and bottles of whiskey and cognac are consumed. A lack of space means this place gets packed easily, especially on the weekends, so look to arrive relatively early to grab a table. Even better, book in advance.

GO2 LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC

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INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 9575 24 hours A corner location, retro, slightly grungy décor, banging indie and popular rock tunes downstairs, never ending drunkenness and late-night partying make Go2 one of the watering hole destinations

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gourmet, creatively topped pizzas. Has a highly rated massage parlour upstairs.

comfort food mains. A range of happy hours and darts make up the mix.

RUBY SOHO

THE DRUNKEN DUCK

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LOUNGE BAR S52-1, Pham Van Nghi, Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5410 6039 www.rubysohosaigon.wordpress.com 10am to 1am A French-inspired spacious (owned by French animation designers), cozy lounge bar and restaurant with two levels offering a menu that includes a classic French rabbit dish, and western food with a French touch, plus a set lunch menu every day from 11am until 2pm for VND95,000. The happy hour on beers and cocktails is from 3pm until 7pm every day of the week.

SHERIDAN’S IRISH PUB AC

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17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 0793 8am to midnight All the charm of a traditional, booth-like, leather upholstered Irish pub with Celticthemed décor and old family photos to match. Has nightly live music from 8pm and also does some of the best home– style pub grub in town with Irish stew and Irish breakfasts making an appearance together with more international fare. Has a large upstairs space as well as a separate smoking room while Guinness and a good range of Irish whiskeys completing the Emerald Isle theme. Probably the only genuine pub in Saigon.

SLATE

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EVENT / PARTY VENUE The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12pm (weekdays). Open late on weekends. A Veteran on the city’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s Bar and Lounge has a downstairs area situated in the open air in the popular Hai Ba Trung courtyard where cocktails and food are available. In contrast, the Blue Room Bar upstairs provides a more relaxing chill out area. Local and International DJs turn the tables from Thursday until Saturday, with live jazz on Wednesdays and the weekly, Thursday evening Ladies’ Night.

DJ DJ DJ

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 7670 spottedcow@alfrescosgroup.com 11am to 12pm daily Part of the Al Fresco’s Group, the original Spotted Cow bar was on Hai Ba Trung in Hanoi, a few doors down from the country’s first Al Fresco’s. Now revived and transformed into a full-on sports bar with Friesian black and white spots to match, this friendly watering hole has a good food menu to match – think pasta, pizza, burgers, baguettes and international

THE LIBRARY LIVE MUSIC DJ

VASCO’S

3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3844 9222 www.moevenpick-hotels.com 5pm to 1am Located opposite Centrepoint, Slate takes its name from the dark grey tiling covering the floor. Merging black and silver with turquoise, and with touches like semiprivate sofa beds, the offerings here include over 30 martini cocktails, a barbecue menu and perhaps one of the most contemporary yet tasteful watering holes in town

SPOTTED COW

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Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated all-day snack menu of exquisite delicacies devised by Executive Chef Rolando Manesco. From 2.30pm to 5pm, the Library’s nostalgic afternoon tea is served, comprising of an array of fresh-cut sandwiches, light bites and platters.

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SPORT / SHOOTER BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3915 2853 4pm to late A shooter bar, with over 15 down–in– one cocktails on the menu boasting names like Aquackalypse Now and The Duckinator, this striking, subtly lit space has a downstairs pool table, a long wooden bar and an upstairs lounge with a large, pull-down projector screen. The watering hole also shows live sport on the weekends courtesy of three flatscreen TVs. Try the shooter challenge and get a t-shirt and your name and time engraved on the wall. Also has a reasonable bar menu.

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DANCE / HIP-HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com 8.30pm to midnight You will be hard pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and uber trendy as Velvet. It’s of no wonder then that most of its clientele are exceptionally well-dressed socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. As a result this venue has carved itself a reputation as being the place to be and to be seen. Has a ladies night every Wednesday.

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102 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: 3925 2599 10am to 1am A departure from the Saigon norm, this comfortably decorated, two-floor pool and snooker lounge mixes the attractions of a lustrous contemporary lounge bar with all the mod cons together with some of the best, imported pool tables available in town. Rental is by the hour, the seven pool tables costing around VND100,000 while the upstairs, full-size snooker table costs a touch more. A great place to go simply for a drink or to shoot pool with friends.

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EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm, Sunday 8am to 5pm Classic but eye-catching cream and greentiled decor runs through this cafe and deli-style restaurant housed in a colonial building opposite Le Duan park. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix together with a Mediterranean and European cafe fare food menu that includes

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ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1 Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm The home of Caffe Vergnano, a recent makeover has added a bar area to this popular downtown cafe that serves up all things coffee - anything from ristrettos, macchiattos and lattes through to frappuccinis, mochas and spirit-infused coffees. Has a decent, mid-range Italian food menu to match that includes a large selection of panini, crostini, Italian rice dishes, salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat-based mains. Has a second cafe at 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1. AC AC AC

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tucked away at the end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of Italian and Vietnamese coffee, as well as a variety of ice blended drinks, iced dolce green mint latte and Italian sodas. Flavours range from violet and lavender to frozen cookie freeze, all at very affordable prices.

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CAFE / CASUAL DINING 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4860 citygarden.sg@gmail.com 7am to 10pm daily City Garden is somewhat of a rarity in this city. Built in a sea of bamboo, this cozy open-air, non air-con cafe offers a casual and Mediterranean-influenced menu with a creative range of reasonably priced Panini starting from VND50,000, Italian latte from VND40,000 and cocktails from VND55,000. Good music and comfortable seating round up the mix.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

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LIVE MUSIC / THEMED CAFE 57H Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: 3932 2797 www.cacophonycafe.com 7.30am to 11pm Set in a villa in a colonial era courtyard alongside two other cafes dedicated to live music, the four floors of Cacophony are all devoted to the beauty of sound, but in a different way. Take level 3, for example. An acoustic guitar and sound system sits in one corner while the room is decorated like a Hanoi urban street corner, sign, lamppost, tree, doorways and all, with the seating on cushions on the floor. Has live music in the basement space five nights a week (not Monday and Tuesday). Also has a small food menu. AC

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DJDJ

OUTDOOR VIETNAMESE 117 Hong Ha, Tan Binh 7am to 10pm Located on the L-shaped road behind the Parkson Centre opposite the airport, a disused war-era passenger plane sets the scene for one the city’s most unique outdoor, plastic deck chair seating cafes. So unique, in fact, that the wings act as shade from the sun, the wheels play home to a set of speakers, pot plants and fans hang from the metal casing of the aircraft while the tail has had a mini house built around it. Not surprisingly this museum of a place can get pretty crowded with families and kids awestruck by the novelty. It’s a decent cafe, too. AC AC

LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 4090 www.bobbybrewers.com 6.30am to 11pm Now with eight locations in town, this slightly synthetic, Starbucks-style airport lounge of a place continues to knock out large and tasty espresso-based coffees together with a full range of smoothies, frappuccinos, juices and much more. Also has a fast-food style western food menu and an upstairs movie lounge showing the latest Hollywood hits with Vietnamese subtitles. Check their website for the movie schedule. Movie lounges are at 45 Bui Vien, Q1, 86 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, 306/8 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 and 400B Le Van Sy, Q3.

AIRPLANE CAFE (CAFE MAY BAY)

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: 3823 3398 www.anscafe.com 7am to 11pm Located down alleyway 38, this sumptuous cafe just off Turtle Lake Circle is chintz, kitsch, bling and contemporary baroque decor all combined into an eye-catching one. That this place is so pleasing on the eye is added to by the silvery finished sofa seating and the iPad menus. Simply swipe the menu, zoom in or zoom out to choose from a contemporary range of coffees, teas, drinks and cocktails as well as Vietnamese and pan-western cuisine.

LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC

BOBBY BREWER’S

CAFES

AN’S INTERIOR CAFE

creative sandwiches and salads as well as + + kebabs, bagels, mains and mezzos, all at prices that go easy on the wallet. Good wine list and an excellent delivery service.

DJDJ DJ

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 Up and coming hole-in-the-wall coffee spot

+ INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3508 7825, www.coffeebean.com.vn 7am to 11pm weekdays. 7.30am to 11.30pm weekends. Great, large servings of coffee have to be the biggest pull of Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, an international chain of pleasant Starbucks-like work, meet and play cafes that is gradually spreading around the city. Now with five stores around town including 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, 12-14 Thai Van Lung, Q1 and further afield, comfortable seating and a contemporary but generic atmosphere are bolstered by a menu of cakes, cookies, sandwiches, pastries and more. AC

GLORIA JEAN’S

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INTERNATIONAL 2BIS Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 www.gloriajeanscoffee.com/vn Wooden table seating mixed with more comfortable armchairs, subtle lighting and a serve-yourself buffet-style ordering counter are some of the key components of this coffee chain that succeeded in Australia where Starbucks failed. It’s not surprising really. The coffee is good as are its various renditions — cinamocha, chai tea chiller, Turkish Delight, mango chiller, Irish nut crème and more.

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MUSIC CAFE / VIETNAMESE 29/27 Doan Thi Diem, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0909 682927 9am to 10.30pm Tucked away just behind Nga Tu Phu Nhuan (The Phu Nhuan Intersection), this tiny gem of a rustic cafe combines nightly live music from 8.30pm with brown velvet upholstered sofa seating, treated dark wooden bench tables, cushions and striking wall decor. So small is this venue that there is an upstairs mezzanine level reached by old Mekong Delta-style ladder stairs and when the music starts, the place not only fills to the open rafters but gets local bus-style cramped, too. A great find.

KITA COFFEE

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3821 6799 kitacoffee@gmail.com 7.30am to 10pm Set in a colonial-era building still replete with original tiling, this self-styled cafe and restaurant mixes traditional French bistrostyle and Old Saigon photo decor with a more contemporary but nonetheless classic feel. Besides the good selection of teas, juices, cakes and espresso-based coffees, does Mediterranean cafe-style fare including sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as a selection of mains and healthy desserts. Has a good wine list and an efficient delivery service.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3821 2718 7am to 10pm An outdoor, well-aired terrace on a corner location is the centerpiece of this fairly new but ever-popular contemporary coffee shop just behind New World Hotel. Wickerchair seating, lightbox lighting, browns, blacks and creams make up the effect, with a menu selling both Vietnamese and espresso-based coffees, smoothies, + +cocktails, beers and a mix of well-priced pan-international and Vietnamese fare. Live music on the weekends. LIVE LIVE LIVE MUSIC MUSIC MUSIC

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CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com Plaudits galore as well as overseas TV coverage seem to have followed this spacious, first floor bistro-style cafe above the Art Arcade. Pitting 1930s French-style wooden decor against a spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior, a simple but creative cafe menu including sandwiches, salads, mains and cakes combines with reasonably priced coffee and good WiFi. Out back is a fashion store stocking modern, street-style brands, and an art gallery.

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335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 www.operationteavietnam.com 8am-8pm (Mon-Fri), 8am-5pm (Sat-Sun) A quiet and hidden little tearoom located on the ground floor of a yoga studio and not far from the city centre. A wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond marks the entrance to this quaint, open-air tearoom. Serving a line of high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and Vietnam, drinks start at VND35,000. Tea and teaware is also available for home use and as gifts.

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MUSIC CAFE 351/4A le Van Sy, Q3, Tel: 3931 6312 8am to 11pm A jungle of a place with vines wrapping round stairwells, water features, pot plants and fairy lights at night, the aircon indoors transforms into a living room-style cafe obsessed by music — images of famous musicians and bands adorn the walls while the playlist is all American. Live piano enters the fray on Saturday and Sunday nights while the menu is typical Vietnamese cafe style together with fast food and a good selection of ice cream.

SOHO COFFEE LOUNGE

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 92 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3915 3606 www.soho.vn What started out as a sleek but comfortable, black and white futuristic affair on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai has now spread to five cafes around town and a restaurant at 327 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. It’s a nice formula. Comfortable but not flamboyant sofa-style seating, suave lines, curves and surfaces, a non-smoking section, good WiFi and surprisingly cheap coffee, all making a place to work, eat, rest and play. Check out their website for a list of locations.

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2nd Floor, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 5994 10am to midnight Bare brick walls, art-deco repro furniture

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and a parlour-like elegance that brings with it all the glamour of old Saigon puts La Fenetre Soleil in a class of its own. Serving up a range of cocktails, imported beer, coffee and smoothies together with a Japanese-Vietnamese fusion menu, atmosphere and the slightly-off-the-maindrag location makes this a great spot to while away those afternoon hours or catch a night-time drink. Does a set lunch menu from 11.30am to 2pm.

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ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm

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out & about

THI CAFÉ

RETRO / VIETNAMESE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 2210 2929 www.thicafe.com 8am to late A gem in an area of rough diamonds, this slightly retro, bookish but loungestyle Vietnamese café and bar brings the best of local coffee shop creativity to Backpackerville, a collection of streets more associated with the brash and the not very beautiful. Decent iced coffee and juices mix with cocktails, beer and a pan-Asian food menu that also has a selection of Mexican fare. Has live acoustic music five nights a week and a downstairs bar area.

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50 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 6911 www.trungnguyen.com.vn 6.30am to 10.30pm A downtown location of the everexpanding Trung Nguyen chain, this pleasant two-storey cafe opposite the Bitexco Tower mixes the creams, browns and comfort seating of this international homegrown brand with the Trung Nguyen menu — six types of mixed robusta and arabica Vietnamese-style coffees together with smoothies, juices and a small range of easy food options. The best place in town to taste locally produced coffee in all its tempting guises. Also has a store at 349 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 and numerous locations around town selling their coffee.

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 269 Nguyen Trung Tuyen, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3845 2155 7am to 11pm Even the logo is shaped like an upside down house at this funky, spacious cafe close to the Moevenpick and the airport. With whole sets of upside down tables and chairs, shelves, light fittings, mantlepieces and even a grand piano hanging from the ceiling, Up is one of the new brand of cafes spreading its wings across the city. Sells the typical range of cafe drinks and simple Vietnamese cuisine as well as cocktails, beer and more. A great place to chill.

RESTAURANTS - CHINESE BUDGET HU TIEU MI ANH KY

MI NOODLE SOUP / WANTON 80 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 5518 6.30am to 12pm daily Take freshly made mi noodles, put them in a

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CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: 3821 7751 / 3821 8759 www.comgahainam.vn The popularity of Hainanese-style chicken rice is unsurprising considering this city’s large Chinese population. But few places do this iconic dish as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from ga luoc (chicken), xa xiu (sweet-roasted pork), vit quay (roasted duck), heo quay (roasted pork) and a range of other options. Also serves up binh dan-style Vietnamese fare, all cooked up with home cooking flair.

GOURMET’S DELIGHT ROAST KITCHEN

CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3521 8181 www.gourmetsdelight.com.vn 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Hong Kong casual dining restaurant Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon and is now open to Cantonese cuisine lovers. Serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere, Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen claims to give guests a bona fide experience of Hong Kong food in the heart of Saigon. Check out the reasonably priced weekend buffet.

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PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 0824 Open 24 hours If ever a restaurant could be said to start a trend, then Tan Hai Van fits into the mould. The first of the late-night restaurants to populate the District 1 end of Nguyen Trai, this long-running bustling venue offers the full range of Chinese fare, from dim sum and homemade noodle soup through to rice dishes, seafood and the likes of abalone. One of the best– known restaurants in town and perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

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CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 10pm Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top

European fusion dishes, and competivitely priced world wines.

Chinese restaurants in town. The classic dim sum menu is reliably appetizing – check out their Sunday morning dim sum brunch. Also has a selection of set menus, both private and semi-private dining rooms and a highly rated chef hailing from Hong Kong.

pork broth, add equally fresh wantons (hoanh thanh), maybe add in some dried hu tieu noodles and put banh quay (bread sticks) and a range of sauces on the side. Et voila, you have one of the best Chinese-style Vietnamese noodle soups in Saigon. The service may be a touch slow and you’ll have to get used to an on-the-street, back to basics atmosphere, but worth every penny (and bite).

Despite its Italian restaurant veneer in a Backpacker area location, this pleasant, mid-range venue is best known for its coffee — its lattes and cappuccinos are among the best available in town. Has both indoor and outdoor spaces as well as an additional dining area upstairs. Although, the service is questionable.

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CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 www.marriott.com 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. The menus for both lunch and dinner are extensive, and this is without doubt one of the city’s finest restaurants both for dim sum and classic Chinese fare. Dim sum goes for between VND30,000 and VND50,000 per dish. LIVE MUSIC

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CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3829 9263 11am to 10pm Mon-Thu. 11am to 11pm Fri-Sat. Closed from 2.30pm to 5.30pm daily and Sundays A quirky and sociable family-run, family-friendly French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, home cooked-style French cuisine for lunch and dinner. Le Bouchon de Saigon offers traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, croque madame and moules marinieres, as well as an array of

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PAN-FRENCH 9 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3829 8143 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm A cramped but comfortable, twostorey eatery popular with the French community. Classic fare from goats cheese salad through to seared magret duck, escargot, charcuterie plates and much more. Has a reasonable but mainly French wine list and a cosy, amiable atmosphere aided by the almost constant presence of the owner. Booking recommended.

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FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: 0903 852956 (Paulo) kcafesaigon@yahoo.com A +French-style bistro and restaurant all in one, this Backpacker Area mainstay attracts a regular clientele made up of Gallic expats, tourists and more. An excellent food menu – think all things French – backs up the long bar area perfect for sipping on a Ricard or a beer or two. Daily specials board and French sports live on TV.

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1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon The restaurant marries contemporary style, stylish surroundings and culinary spectacle with authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisine. As diners look on, the skillful chefs prepare hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within the open, impeccably designed show kitchen.

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PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3823 2221 (Ext: 164) www.shangpalace.com.vn Located just off the Central Business District, the dark intricate wooden tables and chairs of this well-respected Chinese restaurant contrast well with the white linen and deep red carpeting. Featuring over 200 dishes including over 50 kinds of dim sum for lunch, the cuisine here is prepared by chefs from Hong Kong. Has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300 and is a good venue for events, business functions and family get-togethers.

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31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8465 11am to 1.30pm, 6pm to 8.20pm. Closed Sundays Unpretentious, tasty but simple French fare in a relaxed garden setting around the back of the French Cultural Centre, Idecaf. Although don’t expect much intimacy here – Le Jardin gets so crowded and the tables are so close together that private conversations are best had elsewhere. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is classically Gallic and it’s well-priced, too. Excellent, cheap house wine served by the carafe. Booking advised.

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creates the atmosphere at this long-running white tablecloth Saigon mainstay. Serving a mixture of French-influenced Mediterranean cuisine with the occasional addition of Camargue region spices, the menu has a timeless feel to it but with a welcome modern slant. Excellent range of desserts and a great old and new world wine list.

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 2229 8882 www.lacuisine.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Recently relocated from its spot on Ngo Van Nam, this decidedly intimate, whitewashed, open-kitchened restaurant with sandalwood tables and seating specializes in a creative mix of contemporary Mediterranean cuisine with a French twist. With an extensive old and new world wine list — 75 at present count — and a small but well-thought out menu, despite its small size this is a place to wine and dine with both friends and loved ones.

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bungalow, the enigmatic Gils remains at the helm of this self-styled table d'hôte, and as of old he continues to serve up some of the best, classic Gallic fare in town. As ever, the standard seven-course meal remains surprisingly cheap — presently at VND900,000 a head. The bread and even the cheese here are home made — quite a feat.

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FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555, www.sofitel.com 11.30am to 2pm, and 6pm to 10pm A traditional French restaurant offering Mediterranean cuisine that’s well known for its quarterly Michelin star promotions and award winning pastry team. Seating 80 people, the restaurant exudes a southern Gallic atmosphere with its warm-toned tiled veranda, pastel coloured walls and ficus trees.

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CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 3744 4585 6.30pm to 10pm. Closed Monday Deliberately off the radar, Trois Gourmands is the successor of the once legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh. Despite its new District 2 location in a colonial-style

11am to 10.30pm Run by the enigmatic Robin of former Mumtaz fame, this recently opened, pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent. From dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and the fiery vindaloo, the cuisine and hospitable service at this friendly eatery are already drawing in the customers. Good delivery service.

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INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114 11am to 10pm Daily Long running hole-in-the-wall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine as well as roti paratha, muttapa (murtabak) and both vegetarian and meatbased mains. Like its menu, the fan-cooled dining area is simplicity personified and the prices here are cheap, too, with all the dishes costing well under VND100,000.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1Tel: 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com 5.30pm to 10.30pm A place where the ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and fresh, the three-storey Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. The subtle flavours of the northern menu are complemented by spicier more fragrant South Indian curries, roti paratha, dosas, vadas and uthapams. Has a second Phu My Hung Restaurant at S28 Sky Garden 1 (Tel: 5410 1627).

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NORTH INDIAN 40/3 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3508 3777 11am to 11pm daily Don’t be duped by the backpacker eatery veneer, The Punjabi knocks out some seriously good North Indian fare at budget prices. Located on the same hem as Chi’s Cafe, Vegetarian dishes go for around VND40,000 while the chicken and mutton mains hit VND70,000 to VND85,000. Portions are big, too, and don’t forget to check out the fare from this eatery’s selfmade tandoor oven. Excellent. DJ

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3838 6661 www.babaskitchen.in

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INDIAN / MALAYSIAN 2G Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: 3521 0326 indusindiansaigon@gmail.com 11am to 11pm Just two doors away from nightspot icon Apocalypse Now, Indus Indian may not be the brightest in decor and ambience, but this is made up for by the tasty, hybrid Malay Indian fare. Run by Chef Logu, the former cook to the Consulate General of India to Vietnam, expect a Halal menu including the likes of roti canai, murtabak and Malay-styled curries as well as more traditional Indian cuisine.

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NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN MUGHAL 226 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1767 mumtazvn@gmail.com

11am to 11pm daily Impeccable presentation and bold décor greet you as you enter one of the Backpacker Area’s longest running Indians, and pretty much the only one adding a Southern Indian menu to the North Indian standards served elsewhere — think dosas, vadas and more. Curries cost between VND80,000 and VND110,000 each while the tandoor fare is some of the best in town. Has a branch in Danang and a second Saigon restaurant in Phu My Hung.

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S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0999 10am to 11pm A Saigon South favourite, Peaches is located in the square area between Sky Garden 2 and Sky Garden 3. A spacious, attractive restobar with comfortable, lounge-style seating and a bar area, this watering hole mixes three beers on tap and a large screen for the live sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Including anything from Sri Lankan chicken curry through to beef rending, fish head curry and mutton vindaloo, the majority of the dishes cost under VND100,000. A perfect accompaniment to the beer.

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NORTH & SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3930 4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com 11am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm For its downtown location, prices at this pioneer of the city’s Indian dining scene remain surprisingly cheap. Three floors, with cream-coloured airport lounge décor and a deep maroon rangoli-patterned wall, are added to by an extensive menu taking in anything from the more creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to masala, vindaloo, dosa, kebabs and sambhar. Has a great range of vegetarian

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CLASSIC FRENCH 178/4 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 2457 11am to 1pm, 6pm to 9.30pm (9pm on Sunday). Closed Monday Run by two brothers, this unassuming space boasting views of the cathedral is set down an alleyway in a colonial villa. And, + for many aficionados, it serves up some of the best, classic French cuisine in town. A daily carte du jour specials board, set business lunches and desserts to die for are part of the offering here, as is a rooftop terrace area, perfect for good weather.

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FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3520 4888 6pm to 10.30pm A romantic, leafy, French villa setting

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out & about

DELIVERY BEN’S STYLE Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare BURGER OI Tel: 3826 5426 www.burgeroi.com Burgers, fries, onion rings and side orders CHEZ GUIDO Tel: 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches DA VINCI’S Tel: 3943 4982 www.davincisvietnam.com Pizzas, pastas, subs and salads DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts EAT.VN www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants KFC Tel: 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides LOTTERIA Tel: 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

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SCOOZI Tel: 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts TACO BICH www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants ZIPANG Tel: 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm.com for menu

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 7622 7am to 11pm daily Run by the enigmatic Chi, this affable, long-running café with art-lined walls is probably one of the only places in town where you will regularly hear the likes of Bo b Dylan on the sound system. Famed for its build-your-own breakfasts, the menu takes in anything from baked potatoes, sandwiches, toasties and salads through to pasta, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a visa and long-term motorbike rental service.

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INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 175 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3836 0308 The hole-in-the-wall frontage to this darling of the Backpacker’s Area dining scene is misleading. Lam’s serves up some genuinely tasty cuisine at rock bottom prices, especially when you hit the Vietnamese menu. The fare here is typical of local home cooking and the portions are big, too. Also does Tex-Mex, Thai, Singaporean and much more. The bar Chao Saigon (222/2 Bui Vien) opposite is owned and run by the same family

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Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Market 39 specialises in a boutique selection of appetisers, locally sourced and imported seafood, succulent steaks sizzling from the grill and hand-crafted noodles. Breads and pastries are prepared all day to ensure that every dish arrives on the table, fresh and full of flavour. .MID-RANGE

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INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 8424 www.alfrescosgroup.com 8.30am to 11pm The downtown outlet of one of the country’s most successful restaurant chains, the multi-storey Al Fresco’s is international comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Famous for its jumbo ribs, also making the menu is TexMex, burgers, pizzas, salads and an assortment of international mains. Does an excellent delivery service. For a full list of restaurants check the website.

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87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Mon-Fri), 6pm to 11pm (Sat) Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

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EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: 3829 2772 7am to 10.30pm. Sunday 8am to 5pm Consistently tasty Mediterranean and European cafe fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads, kebabs, bagels and mezzes — as well as prices that go easy on the wallet have been one source of Au Parc’s success. Then there is the park-side Le Duan location and the classic but eye-catching cream and green-tiled decor. Good coffee, juices and herbal teas make up the holistic mix. Excellent delivery service.

INTERNATIONAL 19 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 1720 7.30am to 11pm A restobar that caters for any crowd and occasion. A fine dining room is located upstairs while the more casual bar area downstairs regularly shows live sport and hosts live music. The menu offers up a bevy of tasty western comfort food, a selection of Vietnamese fare and some of the best burgers in town.

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INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 8452 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight. Closed Mondays. A miniscule, two-floor restobar with a homely, slightly rustic feel that is the only place in town pushing the excellent, Hue-brewed Huda beer, always served cold. A free book exchange, an everyone-knowsyour-name kind of atmosphere and mains from tuna steak and bangers and mash through to burgers, schnitzels, burritos and sarnies make up the formula here. Does a popular roast from 5.30pm every Sunday.

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CASABLANCA MOROCCAN CUISINE

PAN-NORTH AFRICAN 58/9 Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3862 8859 6pm to midnight. Closed Monday The first Moroccan restaurant in Saigon’s history has an intimate, cozy setting. Couscous mains start at around VND100,000, while couscous with lamb, chicken and beef is just under VND200,000. Other Moroccan specialties such as slow–cooked lamb with almond and plums and roasted quail with sweet mrozia sauce are also on the menu. Chef Riahi’s home–made pastries such as baklava and “gazelle horns” filled with almond paste are a rarity in the city.

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AMERICAN PIZZA DELIVERY 117 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7; The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn 10am to 10pm Despite its delivery-only reputation, Domino's in Vietnam is also doing a roaring trade with eat in diners thanks to its upstairs restaurant space. It's all very casual, of course, with the pizzas served out of the box, but with a range of combos starting at VND70,000 for a small pizza and coke, and now with thin crust available, the Domino's taste and experience has successfully been imported to Vietnam. Check their website for full menu and specials.

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AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3821 4327 www.elbowroom.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily

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PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn 9am to 11pm daily Known for their American-styled burgers, steaks and Tex-Mex, the two-storey Mogambo claims pride of place as one of the city’s longest running restobars. A well-known expat meeting spot, Savannahesque, bamboo décor and booth seating make up the mix together with a pleasant bar space. Dishes run from fajitas and + + + burritos through to chicken cordon bleu, pies, the coronary bypass burger, salad, soup, gumbos and spare ribs.

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 9838 www.pizza4ps.com 11.30am to 11pm, Tue-Sun Italian tradition meets Japanese ingenuity at Pizza 4P’s. This quirky fusion pizza parlor serves whacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza, calamari seaweed pizza and teriyaki chicken pizza, as well as more traditional types such as quattro formaggi, marinara and the old faithful, margherita pizza. Those with an adventurous streak can also order their pizza half and half. Pan-European and Asian soups, salads and a la carte mains make up the rest of the menu.

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FRENCH BISTRO The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon@gmail.com 11am to 10.30pm daily (11pm on Friday and Saturday) A slightly retro, Parisian influence pervades this popular French-style bistro named after the square once housing the city’s opium refinery. The first restaurant to open its doors in this space close to the Park Hyatt, a leafy outdoor terrace mixes with an indoor aircon space and bar area. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to pasta, a selection of Mediterranean influenced mains and

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 3519 4532 www.snap.com.vn 7.30am to 10.30pm (weekdays). 7.30am to 11.30pm (weekends) A huge banyan tree sits in the entrance of Snap Cafe, a rustic-themed airy cafe and retail space with thatched roofing, jungle-like foliage and a kiddy’s play area. Breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, mains including Asian cuisine and weekly specials make up the cuisine mix, complemented by a range of benches and sofa seating that gives this venue a unique feel. Retail outlets include Oasis Deli, a furniture store and YB Designs jewellery.

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DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3827 4738 www.stormp.vn 10am to late Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its mural of Copenhagen taking up the length of one wall attracts a mix of Scandinavian and international punters, all enjoying the offerings from the well-stocked bar and the reasonably priced Danish-influenced pub grub menu. Dishes include Danish-style fried pork and meatballs, frankfurt sausages, a range of grilled fare, burgers and much more. Has three screens for the live sport and seating areas out back and upstairs.

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mains and excellent gourmet pizza.

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MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com 8am to midnight One of the first restaurants to open on a downtown alleyway now jam-packed with eateries, the deep colours, harem-style décor, arches, lightboxes, Arabic script and cushionfriendly outdoor terrace area gives this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in anything from tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal through to shwarma, kofta and the kebab Istambouli.

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AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 3897 vscooterguy@yahoo.com 7am to 2am daily Known for its excellent scooter-themed burgers, this Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a Vietnamese-style sidewalk drinking haunt by night. A corner location, friendly staff and American deli-style fare makes it a regular expat haunt. Also serves Tex-Mex and Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a Vespa tour service from within the café.

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 7.30am to 11pm daily The river plays a big role in this spacious restrobar in An Phu on the banks of Saigon's river. The menu offers seasonal dishes that include share plates, mains, classics and desserts along with a hearty breakfast menu and kids menu. Boat House caters for small to large functions, with three areas to choose from within an ideal private setting. Also provides occasional live music, mini festivals and various themed events.

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LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located in the downtown area Ho Chi Minh City, it encompasses a multiple-floored restaurant and extensive garden area. As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme and shisha with a variety of flavours are available on request. AC

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INTERNATIONAL / PAN-ASIAN FUSION 5 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 6257 www.alibi.vn 10am to late daily Swathed in deep red and with dark wooden lightbox panelling, the addition of black and white Saigon street-scene photos gives this three-storey restobar an atmosphere of an upscale, sleek equivalent in New York or London. Choose between the shared-table downstairs bar area or the more traditional upstairs seating and a menu that blends small fusion cuisine style plates with larger

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR-2 3-4 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5413 6592, www.boomerang.com.vn 7.30am to 11pm daily Take the Esplanades in Singapore, transport one of the Lion City’s seafrontstyle restaurants to Vietnam and you have Boomerang, a two-story, Australianthemed but Singapore-owned eatery and bar with great terraced seating specializing in international fare all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. The menu runs the gamut from pizzas (around VND220,000) through to grills, salads and burgers (around VND185,000). AC AC AC

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171 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 3836 4497 Ground Floor, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4849 121 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 3914 4118 www.subway.com 7am to 10pm Selling the iconic selection of submarine sandwiches that has made this brand famous the world over, Vietnam’s first Subway store includes the likes of Buffalo Chicken and Italian BMT on its menu. All subs are made to order with the same choose-your-own toppings, breads and sauces selection available elsewhere. Upgrade your six-inch to a footlong whopper for VND30,000 or go for a combo meal including potato chips or cookie and a drink from VND85,000.

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INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 www.bizuhotel.com/main/pages/sb-food.php 4pm to 11pm. Closed Monday American chef/owner Scott Marquis offers a creative international menu that he likes to call “comfort food with a twist”. Serving all homemade soups, salads, sharing plates, burgers, sandwiches, pastas, main courses and desserts, the restaurant also boasts a full bar, ice cold beer and an international wine list to complement your meal. Also has a daily happy hour from 4pm to 7pm on ‘buy one get one free’ bottled beers and local spirits mixed drinks to complement the usual selection.

RUSSIAN 6 Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: 3829 4644 11am to late A larger than life-size Russian doll stands outside the entrance of this three-storey beautiful mismatch-of-styles, Russianrun venue. Filled with Eastern European imagery, red theatre-style curtains and Soviet propaganda art, the weekly changing Russian menu includes the likes of borsh, Russian salad, dumplings and cutlets, and can be adapted to your needs for party bookings. Located close to Basilico.

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PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

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sandwiches (served at lunch only). Has an extensive wine list.

Blackboards, diner-style advertising placards and black and white photography cover the bare brick walls at this striking but upmarket, two-storey US-style diner. The comfort food cuisine is an all American affair, with anything from meatball baguettes through to chilli burgers, pastas, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive, more international mains. Has an extensive wine list and an efficient delivery service.

fare and an efficient delivery service.

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NEW YORK/ INTERNATIONAL 76 Bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 3821 3556 7am to midnight Located in the stock market area in between the canal and Ham Nghi, this funky, Wall Street-styled restobar takes the concept of its name and mixes it with an ever-changing set of deals on drinks and cuisine. With cash-obsessed, comic strip style American artwork lining the walls and a great, curved long bar, the French-influenced American food menu includes pizza, hotdogs, salads, tartines and bracket kebabs. Great concept and a good place for more than just a beer.

November 2012 Word | 99

out & about BLU BAR & GRILL

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 7am to 11pm An easy, breezy, light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river. Serves up international comfort food such as burgers and pizzas as well as tasty Asian standards. Also has a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. Part of the Riverside Apartments complex. Check for daily boat schedule between the complex and downtown Saigon.

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combo. That is if you can find the place. If you’re not familiar with Lam Van Ben road, don’t let the awful address system scare you off. Finding KST may be quite an ordeal with the numbers jumping from the hundreds down to the tens then back again. This small restaurant is not easy to spot amidst the many businesses around but just be on the lookout for a kebab carving station right out front. Mainly, it’s a take-away or delivery place and only has three tables but on a weekday, you’ll see foreigners drop by for a quick meal. If you’re not up for a game of hide-and-seek, let your fingers do the talking and send them an SMS for delivery (free for orders over VND100,000). — Lyra Dacio Kebab Sai Thanh, 76 Lam Van Ben, Q7; 0164 8805915; www. kebabsaithanh.com

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AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: 3915 6006 www.hogsbreath.com.vn 8am to midnight The first Vietnam branch of the well known Australian chain mixes hearty pub grub such as pizzas, burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with an Australian sports bar atmosphere thanks to the big screen TVs regularly showing various sporting events. Decked out in dark wooden furnishings with a long bar space and grassy/patio outdoor terrace, drinks include a mainly new world wine list and various local and imported beers and spirits. Good regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour.

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TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 6291 3677 www.pasha.com.vn 10am to 2am A sumptuous but tasteful Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. The cuisine here is authentically Turkish with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in, too. Think falafel, shish, doner and kofta kebabs, all served up with homemade breads as well as the likes of pizaa, moussaka, fish and chips and more. LIVE LIVEMUSIC MUSIC DJ DJ

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SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6924 www.pacharan.com.vn Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar at this multi-storey, Spanish-styled tapas and bodegas. Decorated in tile-like, impressionist rounded reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s location, regular live music and its ability to show its customers a good time have made it one of the mainstays of the downtown wining and dining scene. The food menu includes tapas, paella, larger mains and an extensive, Iberian wine list.

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Japanese-Peruvian fusion menu (designed by former Nobu chef Martin Brito), late opening hours and regular DJ sets. Check out their sashimi and tartares. Mouthwateringly good.

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WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315, www.vinovietnam.com 10am to 10pm daily The terrace out front acts as a great after work drinking spot at this well-known downtown wine shop. Up to 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer and a selection of mini, tapas-like dishes such as albondigas, chorizo, cheese plates, antipasti, jumbo olives and garlic tiger prawns make up the selection here.

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CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 www.xusaigon.com 11am to midnight The downstairs café-cum-lounge bar of this iconic downtown modern Vietnamese restaurant mixes subtle lighting with contemporary artwork ands design touches, a swathe of browns, cream, maroon, sofa-style seating and deep red upholstery. Serving a range of international fare together with Vietnamese dishes throughout the day, nighttime turns this venue into an upmarket, downtown bar. Known for its cocktails and extensive wine list.

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ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: 3825 1879 www.elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late A pleasant downtown eatery mixing the Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. The smaller downstairs

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STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3829 5368 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 6am to 11pm The sleek, contemporary brown and cream decor at this street level steakhouse in the Norfolk Hotel plays host to a gem of a place close to Ben Thanh Market. Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range US or Australian steaks as well as the great + +grill and comfort food menu makes this a good option for a quality bite. Steaks start at VND390,000 for a decent sized cut. Does a nightly, competitively priced wine buffet.

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26th & 27th Floor Rooftop, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3827 2372, www.chillsaigon.com 5pm to 10pm (restaurant). 5pm to 2am (bar & lounge) Offering breath-taking views of the city, Chill consists of an upscale restaurant, posh sky bar and a sophisticated lounge. The music schedule offers everything from chill-out, R&B and sexy house to hip-hop. A “Sunset Happy Hour Special” runs Mondays through Thursdays from 5.30pm to 8:30pm. Make sure to dress well as Chill operates a no-shorts/no-sandals dress code policy.

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INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: 3822 4798 www.skewers-restaurant.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily Simple, unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine is served at this long-running, bare-brick restaurant in the heart of the foreign ghetto. With dishes ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, pastas, risottos, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers, this is the only eatery in town serving Greek cuisine. Also has an extensive wine list and an excellent upstairs cigar room with a range of Cubans and more to match.

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195 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 8301 www.myplace.com.vn 11am to late, Tue-Sun Renovated from an old French colonial-era villa, My Place is a sleek, high-end gastropub with private salons, an idyllic garden space and several bar areas. Serves both local and international fare including stews, clams, pasta dishes and finger food. Also does a BBQ every Saturday night, brunches on Sundays and offers various daily food and drinks promotions.

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3827 0931 8.30am to 11pm daily An attractive outdoor terrace together and a smaller indoor aircon area are the draw at this well-known Australian-styled international fusion restaurant that is part of the Al Fresco’s Group. Although a chain restaurant, the offerings here are consistently good — the cuisine includes pasta, noodles and salads together with burgers, pizzas and an excellent selection of steaks and grill-style mains. Excellent service and a good kids menu. Second restaurant at 33 Dong Khoi, Q1.

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ITALIAN-STYLE TAPAS / RESTOBAR 17 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3827 9095 10am to 11pm Specialising in Italian-style tapas and fine dining in a casual setting, Figaro offers an assortment of aperrandivi dishes, weekly blackboard specials, gourmet pizzas, pastas and salads, and an extensive selection of wines by the bottle from Italy, France, Chile, Australia and New Zealand. Premium beers, spirits and cocktails make up the rest.

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INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com 8am to 10pm daily. MM Bistro 6.30am to 9pm daily. The rustic looking, banana-leaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place to go in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard with a kids’ play area, a bar space, wicker-style seating and notice boards galore, the cuisine is a mixture of gourmet pizzas, sandwiches, salads, pasta and pizza interlaced with Gulf of Thailand seafood imported directly from Phu Quoc. Also does a great breakfast. A recent addition is the aircon, bakery-style MM Bistro out front.

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EUROPEAN/ASIAN 98 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 6065 7am to 11pm Situated above a small art gallery where Nguyen Hue meets Le Loi, Charner Café offers pan-European and Asian cuisine despite its overtly mid-to-late 20th century Parisian-inspired interior. Excellent soups, salads, pizzas and pasta dishes are all available at reasonable prices ranging from VND120,000 to VND350,000, as are Chinese and Thai-style Asian courses. Also serves breakfast, brunch and good coffee.

PHOTOS BY ARMI DETICIO

cabbage, lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes and their special sauce, with the option of adding chili if you’re inclined to spiciness. For the crepes, you can go plain or add sugar, jam or honey. But if you’re going to eat crepe, there is a choice of banana and chocolate combo or the banana and nutella mix. Finish with ice cold tea or ca phe sua da and you’re golden. Pita and crepes? Not a bad

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GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 4206, www.brotzeit.co/kumholink 11am to 12am daily The city’s first contemporary German bier bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers wellknown German black, blonde and gold beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine — think sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed, contemporary yet chic setting. Almost a Bavarian variation of the British gastropub chain All Bar One, the interior comprises wooden benches, wooden tables and a long wooden bar counter, as well as a semi open-air balcony overlooking Le Duan.

foodie CORNER

FOUND IN ONE OF DISTRICT 7’s busiest roads is Kebab Sai Thanh (76 Lam Van Ben). KST’s menu is short and sweet focusing on chicken kebabs with rice or pita bread, and tasty crepes. Price for the kebab starts at an affordable VND14,000 while crepes come at VND5,000. The juicy kebab is presented in freshly baked pita bread that is soft and chewy with onions,

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CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana–saigon.com 10am to 1am Cuban–themed bar and restaurant selling a tasty range of Cuban and Spanish cuisine. The signature seafood–based paella goes for VND330,000 for two people and a big selection of tapas starts at VND40,000 each. Also has a small German menu featuring favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Does excellent cocktails, and,three–course lunches, including a drink, for under VND200,000.

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39 Le Duan, Q1 www.kumholink.com.vn/en As Saigon’s one and only dedicated “Drinking and Dining destination”, Kumho Link has made a name for itself by being able to suit everyone’s food and drink desires: with quality Western, Hong Kong Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Singaporean, Thai and Vietnamese fare, along with great cocktails, imported German Beer and live music. AC AC

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Cafe fare made with American flair

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 41 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 7375 7am to 1am daily Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list and laid-back ambience, combined with a conversation-friendly bar area, 40-seat dining space, and high quality international cuisine makes ZanZBar one of Saigon's go-to destinations. Not only known for their popular weekly-changing set lunches, ZanZBar provides top notch comfort and gourmet food such as Irish stew, ploughman’s lunch and Mexican fare, and miso-marinated cobia on puree of carrot & white chocolate, and some of the best value tenderloins in the downtown area.

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BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3820 7157 www.aulacdobrazil.com 5pm to 10.30pm Au Lac Do mixes a Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. Heading up the menu is the churrasco, the Brazilian barbecue, with 12 cuts of smoked, barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, all hand carved quite theatrically at your table. Not surprisingly the place can get a little busy, so best to book. Has a second restaurant at 36/19–21 Ground floor, Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, Q7.

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Burgers Panini Baguettes American Breakfasts Tex-Mex Asian Specialties

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JAPANESE / PERUVIAN FUSION 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 11am to 3am Located in a three-storey building in the centre of downtown Saigon – and named after French colonial-era mayor Rue Paul Blanchy — this popular high-end restobar pulls in both diners and latenight revellers thanks to its inventive

DJ DJ

169a De Tham

@ Tran Hung Dao Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 7am-2am daily

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YEEBO Broadway Building, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Flashy hotpot joint great for large parties.

102 | Word November 2012

Cham Charm

Nha Be

Boomarang

11 St 23

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine. Often puts on specials and brings in overseas chefs. Presently regarded as one of the best buffet restaurants in town.

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am -N

t ee Str 22 t ee Str 20

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t ee Str 19

Parkson Paragon Shopping Mall and Cinema 09 t ee Str 19

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t ee Str 19

g Lon ng Hu

m Na

ree t

Au Lac Do Brazil 08 t ee Str 18

t ee Str 17

t ee Str 16

2 ieu y T ge Tha Brid

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t ee Str 22

Mini Golf Course and Swimming Pool 07 t ee Str 16

et re St

RA NT VA N A TR Anh Sao Bridge

10 Tay

Dang Duc Thuat

Ha Huy Tap 03

Pham Thai Buong

m Na G-

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Saigon Exhibition Centre 06 Janpanese Internationl School

u Thie am Ph 12

THE CRESCENT (HO BAN NGUYET)

Pham Thai Buong

NGUYEN VAN LINH NGUYEN VAN LINH

6 Street

EN UY NG

NG BA NG O LU

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 6am to 10pm The ground floor, flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, the minimalist yet slightly kitsch décor here is designed to bring out the colours and ambiance of the restaurant’s lavish buffets. Served three times a day, with a number of alternative cooking stations, the cuisine runs the gamut from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood to creative salads, cold cuts and cheese plates to a range of desserts. Also does an excellent range of promotions. Check their website for details.

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CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: 3827 9631 11am to midnight. 10.30pm last order A well-thought out and romantic venue up+++on high with sweeping views over central Saigon. A breezy lounge–style outdoor terrace, an indoor bar area and a separate dining room with 270– degree views of the city make up this enormous, no-comfort-spared space. The excellent food menu mixes contemporary international–style grill and modern European fare such as contemporary pasta and risotto dishes.

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INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: 6291 8750, www.cirrussaigon.com 10am to 10pm Strata is an all-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch from 11:30am to 2pm, high tea from 2:30pm to 5pm and a buffet dinner 6:30pm to 10pm, as well as an all-day a la carte menu. A separate private function space provides a suitable venue for business meetings, corporate events, seminars/conferences, and private dining.

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MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 3744 6632 www.thedecksaigon.com 8am to late daily. Last order 10pm. Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, the soothing riverside location provides the perfect setting for this innovative restaurant. Serving up Europeaninfluenced Asian fusion cuisine in both

an airy indoor and roof-covered outdoor space, the menu is complemented by great cocktails, a wine list of over 100 wines and a new bar in the front garden area replete with designer furniture.

A Taste of Authenticity

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ITALIAN, TEX-MEX, INTERNATIONAL 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3837 0760 8am to 11pm daily This family-run restaurant has been on of the Backpackers’ Area mainstays for well over a decade, selling excellent pizzas, salads and pastas all mixed in with pan-western cuisine, tasty Vietnamese fare and a few Tex-Mex dishes. Amiable owners, a pleasant atmosphere, reasonable pricing and an efficient delivery service make up the mix.

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 103 Ton Dat Tien, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7. Tel: 5412 4848 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm Located in the modern confines of The Crescent, this contemporary-styled Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an open kitchen and a relaxing outdoor terrace area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian cuisine, the menu includes a nice selection of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas and desserts, all at affordable prices. At night the cozy atmosphere creates the ideal ambience for a dinner accompanied by a bottle of wine.

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, Q1, Tel: 3827 5946 7.30am to 11.30pm A contemporary Italian-themed cafe and restaurant mixing the best of

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INTERNATIONAL FUSION 5/7-5/8 Nguyen Sieu, Q1 8am to 11pm This lounge-restaurant (below Lavish) is centrally located and has elegant, peaceful and cozy surroundings. The décor includes reproduction furniture, sculptures, flowers and oil paintings, and the menu has a great range of well-presented Asian and European dishes. The service is friendly, relaxed and attentive. A great place to meet friends to relax, eat and drink.

REFLECTIONS

Nguyen Binh

NGUYEn DUC CANH

Nguyen Phan chanh

El Gaucho

Lawrence S.ting Building 05 ne ien ond ym Ra

on ris Mo

ang Da Ho t Ti en n

1 Tieu ThaByridge

et tre OS

Pham Van Nghi - Nam

m Na

St. 19

Crescent Mall 04 09

hai nT Va

N VA YEN NGU Ba c 6 Street

Le Van Thiem

Pham Van Nghi - Bac

m Na

P Street

Nguyen Binh

Dang Dai Do

Le Van Thiem

N-

Nguyen Cao - Nam

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NINETEEN

QUO VADIS t uye cT Do Do

P Street

BUI BANG DOAN

ng huo nC Va

Korean Internationl School

Carl's Junior 03

sell Ru nd rtra Be

ha nT Va

g an Ho 06

LIN

07 01

Phan Khiem Ich

2 Street

Cao Trieu Phat

c Ba

am Ph

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7373 www.steakhouse.com.vn 11am to midnight Evoking a retro, black and white Hollywood movie star environment, NYSW is known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, table-carved double strip loins and chateaubriands. Side dishes include black truffle cream spinach, potato dauphinois and fresh mushrooms, while the extensive wine list adds to the overall dining experience, which is enhanced by the all red and grey diner-style décor. Has an upstairs cigar room. AC AC AC

ing rK he Lut

N - Nam

RMIT // Q1 // Binh Chanh

WRAP & ROLL SA1–1 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 5412 0461

N-

TOKYO DELI SC6–1 Parkview Building, Q7 Tel: 5410 1166

n Vie ac Kh n e uy Ng

Nguyen Cao - Bac

G AN GB ON U L EN UY NGa Camge2

m Na D-

C Brid

NG BA NG UO L EN UY NG

m Na

ac -B

c Ba D-

ien tT Da Ton

yen Dong Ngu Ch

TIB Broadway Building, 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: 5413 6868

FV Hospital

Nguyen D ong Chi

SURASANG 1417 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Korean deli displaying bowl after bowl of various types of kim chi and other traditional fare. THE TAVERN R2–24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 3900 Cold beer, friendly service, a convivial atmosphere and a pavement terrace make this a perfect place for a pit stop any time of the day.

NG BA NG UO L EN UY

PIZZA INN 4 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 1196

c Ba

m Na C-

SHRI

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE & WINERY

Peaches 02

Phu My Bridge // Q2 i Q1 // Q4

PARIS DELI Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

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u Ph Tan

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c Ba B-

ONE MORE SA9–1 My Khanh III, Ha Huy Tap, Q7 An everybody–knows–your–name type atmosphere at this local bar.

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u Ph Tan

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Da t T ien

OHAN S1 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Quality Japanese fare in a stylish atmosphere. Prices are higher but so is quality.

u Ph Tan m1 Ca e CaBridg

NG UY EN V AN LINH

NATHALIE’S THAI RESTAURANT S9–HV3 Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 A strong neighbourhood vibe at this pleasantly decorated Thai eatery–cum–café.

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LOVE NOODLE HOUSE D002 Nguyen Binh, Q7 Singaporean noodle house.

SARPINO’S PIZZA GrandView Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2480

Taipei Internationl School

The Tavern 01

LA PIZZA ITALIANA SF 19-1 Canh Vien 1 Duong Pho Tieu Nam, Q7 Tel: 08 5417 0511/2 - for deliveries Selling authentic Italian thin-crust pizzas & a selection of pasta dishes.

To n

JUJAEGEUM Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Enormous bakery, patisserie and chocolatier.

GLORIA JEAN’S COFFEE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2289 International–style coffee house with the usual range of cappucinos, frappucinos and mochaccions to drink or take away.

DISTRICT 7

CREMONA 55 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Italian–style cake shop and café that serves excellent coffees and tasty sweets.

CAFÉ TERRACE Grand View Building, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 5412 2178

re e

DISTRICT 7

sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus an ongoing roster of themed lunches in a fresh, elegant setting.

and kitchen area is complemented by a no-smoking dining space upstairs replete with a bar and an outdoor terrace. Add to this bar-brick wall decor, light-wood tables and Argentinian themed photography on the walls and you have a well-rounded, popular restaurant only a stone’s throw from the Opera House.

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INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 6pm to 11pm Pan-Mediterranean and European dishes make up the bulk of the offerings at the refined but surprisingly fresh Reflections. The Caravelle Hotel’s signature restaurant, old images of the city grace the walls while a pianist plays nightly in the separate bar area. And yet the fare is surprisingly contemporary. Cosy yet elegant, a well– sourced wine list and a pre-bookable private dining room make this a good choice for that special meal or to entertain people who need to be entertained.

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INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 3822 0033 6am to 11pm Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00

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out & about

AN PHU BLU BAR & GRILL 53 Vo Truong Toan, Riverside Apartments, Q2 Tel: 3744 4111 ext. 707 An easy, breezy light-filled space with a resort-like feel next to the river serves up comfort food and Asian standards. Also with a good range of more eclectic dishes and daily specials. BOATHOUSE APSC Compound, 40 Lily Road, Q2 info@boathouse.com.vn The menu is built around surf and turf. Lunch comprises of a healthy selection of soups, salads and sandwiches while dinner concentrates on top–end beef, seafood and pastas. CAFÉ EVITA 230 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Pizzas, salads, burgers, pastas, ice cream and a whole lot more besides is on hand to keep the entire family full and happy at this bright, airy and well kitted–out eatery.

the peninsular’s coffee — anything from ristrettos and macchiattos to frappuccinis — with a decent cafe-based food menu that also includes a more extensive selection of mains. As well as a substantial range of meat and vegetarian panini and crostini, there are also Italian rice dishes, creative salads, soups, home made pasta and more wholesome meat or seafood-based mains.

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GOOD EATS NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Connected to NTFQ2 Fitness Centre, the menu is based on the theme of maintaining a long and healthy life. MEKONG MERCHANT 23 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6478 Superb dining space in leafy, shaded courtyard. Fresh Phu Quoc seafood is the speciality. Other staples are homemade pizzas, salads and daily specials. SNAP CAFE 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Chilled, rustic, open–air style cafe set in a large courtyard with comfortable wooden seating, banana–leaf roofing and an outdoor playground area for kids. TAMAGO 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4634 Serving a range of authentic Japanese dishes and sushi, Tamago offers a weekly Sunday buffet lunch and BBQ/ yakiniku on Thursday evenings. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a great terrace. Private rooms also available. Call for home delivery.

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TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1 Tel: 3915 3692 A contemporary yet traditionally themed Trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving a wide range of home cooked Italian cuisine in the confines of a well designed and thought out space with high ceilings. A varied menu is available to suit different tastes from traditional antipasti to substantial main courses.

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GAUDI 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 4722 A Spanish tapas restaurant decorated in the style of Spanish architect Gaudi. Italian dishes such as pizza, risotto and pasta are also on offer.

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NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3822 3329 www.saigonrestaurantgroup.com 9am to 11pm A fun and affordable New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of interesting and tasty antipasti, pastas, pizzas and more. Friendly and attentive staff, rustic bare brick walls and warm Tuscan yellow colouring make for a relaxed and attractive setting to dine while Sinatra, Deano and Sammy croon in the background.

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PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: 6253 2828 www.pendolasco.vn 11am to 10pm Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area surrounded by an L-shaped indoor dining space, this Trattoria-style Italian has been serving up quality cuisine for years. Homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and a range of grilled mains make up the menu. The wine list takes in Italian as well as new and old world.

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ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3836 9220 www.stellacaffe.com 7am to 11.30pm daily Besides serving up one of the best lattes in town, the tasteful, two-storey Caffe Stella has become one of the main expat haunts in the Backpackers’ Area thanks to its friendly staff, decent WiFi, reasonable Italian cuisine and indoor aircon space. Although there are a number of Vietnamese dishes on offer, the cuisine here is all Italian – think antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata and Italian-style mains – all sold at decent prices.

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Cnr. Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: 3520 9099, www.icasianasaigon.com 6.30am to 10.30pm A sleek, modern-styled trattoria attached to the back of the Intercontinental, the professionally designed, international Italian fare encompasses anything from carne and pesce dishes through to pizza, pasta, baguettes, focaccia and panini. Has a breezy, tree-shaded outdoor street terrace area and is often packed at mealtimes. For being part of a five-star, prices here are very reasonable.

CASA ITALIA

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CLASSIC ITALIAN 86 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3824 4286 www.casaitalia.com.vn 10am to midnight Pompeii ceiling tiling, Roman arches and a classic Italian feel pervade this restaurant close to Ben Thanh Market. The fare mixes international Italian cuisine

such carbonara, Bolognese and Arrabiata dishes with regional specialities such as the linguine sfiziose and excellent woodfire oven pizzas. Has a good selection of mains as well as an intimate wine cellarstyle dining space upstairs.

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TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com 9.30am to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm This downtown hideaway with tasteful, rustic–style decor trawls the various regions of Italy for inspiration and the result is traditional cuisine with a light, fresh touch. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also does excellent homemade pasta and some of the best pizzas in town courtesy of their hand-built wood-fired oven.

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PAN-ITALIAN 79 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3823 8998 www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 10am to 10pm Recently expanded, this neat, spacious, brick-walled Italian favourite has long been serving up top-calibre fare within a minute’s walk of the Opera House. The menu is typical of the boot-shaped peninsula, with insalate, primi patti, pesce, carni, pasta, dolci and pizza lining its pages. A refreshing selection of vegetarian fare is also available taking in ravioli, caponatra, risotto and cannelloni. This is a solid restaurant serving up solid cuisine.

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PIZZA & GRILL 11 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3824 7446 www.labraceria.com.vn The pastel-coloured, Roman arch brickwork of this airy, three-storey restaurant provides the setting for a more unusual variation on the Italian theme — the grill. Cooked over lava stones (think Mount Etna) or in the wood-fired pizza oven, dishes include steaks, lamb chops, Andouillette sausage, skewers and a range of seafood, all marinated with a selection of Mediterranean spices. Also does a range of pasta, pizza and traditional starters.

OPERA

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CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com 6am to 11pm Unpretentious, casual but elegant bistro– style restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu which starts with pasta and wood–fired pizza, and then moves on to an expertly crafted selection of gourmet fare. A terrace offers the chance to observe the city goings–on. The wine list is a compact selection from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and great open kitchens. Has a laid-back separate bar area, too.

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PAN-ASIAN / JAPANESE 185/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3836 7397 7am to midnight daily While standard Japanese day-to-day fare is the focus of this long-running, bamboo-clad eatery close to Chi’s Café, the menu here also includes Vietnamese, Indian, western and vegetarian options. With prices remaining at rock bottom – VND45,000 to VND65,000 for a mains — Asian Kitchen is a favourite with budget tourists and is highly rated on Trip Advisor.

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JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 2527 9.30am to 2pm, 4.30pm to midnight

DJDJ

The wooden and charcoal panelling together with the open downstairs kitchen and upstairs swathed-in-red dining area give this contemporary Japanese eatery a casual but comfortable ambience. Specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, while the various other meat and vegetable options are also an excellent choice. Does a great lunch set starting at under VND100,000, rising to just under VND300,000 for the barbecue set.

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JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3521 0008 www.ramen.vn 11am to 1am Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the defining feature of this decidedly Japanese eatery is the black and white sketch of old Saigon stretching the whole length of the righthand wall. Bar-table as well as standard seating adds to the atmosphere while the menu focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also has a number of stir-fried options and a rice dish-based lunch menu.

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JAPANESE HOTPOT 117 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3930 9185 www.musmus.net 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10.30pm An excellent slither of a place specialising in Japanese-style hotpots, shabu-shabu and, in particular, the awesome steamed hotpot. Choose 12 ingredients (including meats and seafood) from the menu and steam over a broth on your table. Eat the remaining soup with rice or noodles. A great, tasty and remarkably healthy dish. And it’s cheap, too.

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JAPANESE / FUSION 45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 2351 11am to 1.30am Aiming to add some "Nippon (Japanese) culture” to Saigon’s dining scene, Kabuto Tokyo offers typical Japanese cuisine such as sushi and sashimi, fusion dishes like Kabuto Mushi and steamed Vietnamese seafood, and various skewers (roasted pork, Yakitori chicken) with salted rice and soy flavoured rice malts. The restaurant itself mixes Manga cartoons on the walls with golden ceilings and traditional Japanese armour, swords and huge carp steamer lantern displays.

OOO / MARUSAN

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YAKITORI / CHICKEN RESTAURANT 37 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 3911 9000 www.yakitori-ooo.com 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Closed Sundays Possibly one of the most eye-catching Japanese restaurants in town, this snug two-storey space mixes light wooden and bare industrial brick decor with a downstairs wooden topped bar area and upstairs cubby holes for semi-private dining. Serving all things chicken from hotpots and yakitori fare through to deep fried chicken on a huge bed of dried chillis, the trilingual menu also includes Korean soju, saki, a big selection of wine and imported Japanese beer.

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JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 11am to 3am Monday to Saturday, 11am to 10pm Sunday If you like your noodles in every possible form and prefer them to be Japanese, then this sleek, open-kitchened contemporary eatery may just be a little slice of heaven. Served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes, the ramen are supplemented by a range of smaller, appetizing sides. The Phu My Hung branch is on Nguyen Duc Canh next to S’Cottage.

November 2012 Word | 105

{cafe CRITIQUE}

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ELLE CAFÉ

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and coffee mugs make stylish additions to the space. With a very hotel café-feel to the place, you’d hardly think you were in Saigon. As well as a range of teas, Elle Café serves standard brewed coffee and ca phe. If you’re craving some good ol’ western breakfast fare, try their American meal with bacon, beans, hotdog, egg, and bread. The overall appeal of Elle Café caters to fashionista, brand-conscious youngsters and business people which may explain why the price tags are a bit on the expensive. Foie gras, fillet mignon, Chateau Notton — just a few of the things you’re not likely to find in your friendly neighbourhood café.

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: 3930 0039, www.sushidiningaoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. All sushi dishes are prepared by a professional sushi chef from Japan. Tasty set lunches start from a very reasonably priced VND90,000.

URAETEI BBQ RESTAURANT

JAPANESE BBQ 2A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 6673 9373 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Cool and dark, this forest grotto of a restaurant deals in natural finishes and a sense of isolated calm, all added to by private booths and food prepared at the table. Dishes include salty fish/squid, fresh raw beef, smoked chicken, fried pork cutlet, seafood pizza, sukiyaki and shabu shabu hot pot. The speciality here, though, is yakiniku, traditional Japanese grilled meat. Delicious. AC

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188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3930 3917 6am to 10pm Set down an alleyway in an outdoor courtyard with an additional indoor dining space, this well-known eatery specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak. Served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, you can add pate or an egg, all for well under VND100,000. Has a second restaurant at 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3. English menu available. + + NE LE HONG BO

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STEAK / BANH CUON 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 5106 11.30am to 22.30pm Stuffed down an alleyway close to the intersection of Huynh Van Banh and Le Van Sy, the bo ne offering at this fancooled, plastic stool eatery is one of the best in town. Served up sizzling with pate, fried egg, onions, chips and of course local beef, price-wise Le Hong remains very much a budget option. Is also known for its excellent banh cuon.

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COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1 Tel: 3925 0935 + ++ + www.comtamthuankieu.com.vn The multi-storey, downtown branch of the

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6258 1508 10am to 10pm The work of the eponymous owner and head chef Chi Nghia, Papaya is one of the city's unsung gems. Tucked down a tangle of streets near the canal on the edge of District 1, the cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap, too, with mains going for well under VND100,000, and portions are also on the large side. Well worth a visit

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VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 5893 6am to 9pm If you desire service with a smile, avoid

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BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: 3824 1110 10am to 9pm

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: 6290 8899 10am to 11pm Located minutes away from the backpacker area in a beautifully restored French colonial-era villa, Monsoon Restaurant & Bar Saigon specialises WIFI

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HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3825 0261 www.namgiao.com 7.30am to 10pm Set down an alleyway opposite Ben Thanh market and surrounded by a bizarre plethora of hole-in-the-wall beauty salons, this pleasantly attired, long-running Huestyle eatery is known for its excellent bun bo-style soups and central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen and much more. All the mains go for under VND50,000. Has a second eatery on Suong Nguyet Anh.

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famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery close to Cho Ray Hospital. Swathed in yellow and green and packed all day long, the fare here is everything com tam (bitty rice) - think suon nuong (barbecued pork), xiu mai (meatballs), thit heo quay (roasted pork), canh kho qua (bitter gourd broth) and muc don thit (squid stuffed with pork). Prices are cheap, too with the standard meal going for around VND30,000. Has an English menu.

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SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: 3823 8371 www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am to 3am Singaporean and Malaysian specialities fill the menu at this friendly, authentic fivestorey Lion City eatery. Think the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, mee Siam, roti prata, awesome chicken curry as well as the specialities of the house — frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. Does an efficient delivery service and has more restaurants at 701 Ba Thang Hai, ++ +Q10, 141 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 and 206 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh.

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42 Le Anh Xuan, Q1 Tel: 3823 3232, www.vickis.com.vn 11am to 11pm Offering teppanyaki-style live cooking over seven floors, this completely non-smoking restaurant is fun for all the family. Headed up by Thailand’s No. 1 teppanyaki chef, the all-Thai cheffing team possess an arsenal of entertaining cooking skills, with each chef preparing the food in front of guests on a traditional teppanyaki-style grill. Offering fresh local and imported meats and seafood at market prices, customers can also choose from an extensive set menu ranging from around VND500,000 to VND1.2 million per person

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CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 4423, www.kohthai.vn 11am to 12am daily A modern Thai fusion restaurant that merges traditional Thai flavours with contemporary European presentation and cooking styles, Koh Thai serves a range of Thai classics alongside the likes of tom yam cappuccino, pad thai in a rice paper sushi roll and more. Lunchtimes focus on set menus while the evening fare concentrates on a la carte. An extensive wine list and creative cocktails merge Thai flavours and ingredients with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

PAN-THAI Tel: 3519 0038 Tues to Sun 5pm to 9.30pm A cosy, Thai-style garden dining area with a children’s playroom, this eatery off the main drag in An Phu provides soft, candle-lit lighting, Thai music and a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine runs the gamut from Bangkok Thai through to Laotian and Isaan cuisine, with anything from massaman and green curries through to lap ped and mains such as phad prew wan gai. Also does an efficient District 2 delivery service that includes The Manor and Saigon Pearl.

LION CITY

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Set down a side street around the back of Tan Dinh Market, this sterling testament to tasty Vietnamese cuisine continues to stake its claim as one of the best banh xeo joints in town. But don’t expect frills. The outdoor, covered bench seating is much as it was a decade ago and the fare is simple but amazingly tasty — the pork, beansprout and prawn pancake served up with roll-your-own salad leaves and fresh herbs. Also has a big range of Hue and pan-Vietnamese dishes. Beefsteak Nam Son

PAN-THAI S9 Hung Vuong 3, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5410 0822 www.nathaliesrestaurant.com 7am to 10pm Both a cafe and a restaurant, its corner location on the opposite side of the highway from KFC has gained Nathalies's a reputation among Vietnamese, Asian expats and more. Claiming to serve up 'Thai Fine Cuisine', all cooked without MSG, and with a particular focus on seafood, mains on the pan-Thai menu go for between VND100,000 and VND200,000. Also has an outdoor Thai noodle stand.

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn 11am to 10pm Whitewashed décor with a distinctly Thai theme – images of the Royal family, elephant embroidery and more – provide the atmosphere at this excellent, long-running restaurant. The fare runs from laab salads (from VND75,000) through to curries (from VND75,000), traditional Thai mains, som tam (VND70,000), fish cakes and dishes such as the deep-fried catfish with mango salad (VND75,000). Has three VIP rooms upstairs.

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SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3829 0326 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita. Originally from Osaka this old hand travelled the world prior to serving a stint at the former Omni Hotel (now Moevenpick). His present venture features diminutive downstairs bar seating and upstairs space together with some of the best sushi and sashimi in town. The key is not just in the cutting and preparation, but in the ingredients and presentation. Here it is faultless.

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PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 5453 www.baanthai-anphu.com 11am to 11pm, Sunday to Thursday. Open until midnight on Friday and Saturday Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating fill the restaurant and lounge bar area of this eatery on the main drag in An Phu. The menu focuses on a range of rice, noodle, fried and curry dishes with a mix of other fare including a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as a selection of salads, including the likes of the firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

Ground floor, Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Cu Street, Q1, Tel: 3830 8123 Lunch: 11:00 - 14:30 Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 Fuji restaurant offers luxury Japanese cuisine in Saigon such as Teppanyaki, sushi and Japanese dishes. All ingredients are prepared two Japanese Chefs from Tokyo and Osaka. The big selection of wine, sake and premium Japanese Wagyu beef. Tasty set lunch menus start VND 252.000++.

INAHO

Across from the Elle shop is Elle Café, located at the bottom of the Bitexco Financial Tower. In a premium spot amidst retail outlets such as the Mac Store and Adidas, the cafe completes the cosmopolitan image that Saigon is trying to achieve. It’s hard to miss with its white canopies contrasting the surrounding grey buildings. Completing the outdoor area is a mixture of wrought iron and cushioned synthetic wicker furniture with matching tables — all in pure white. With the sporadic wet season, the café’s indoor space is better suited for escaping the rain. The small area boasts a bar and a few booths in back. Elle magazine-inspired artwork,

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JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Tel: 3823 8433 www.yamaneko–vn.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5pm to 1am Tucked away in an alley off Le Thanh Ton, the funky Yamaneko offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Including dishes such as buta no syoga yaki tesuko (grilled pork marinated in ginger sauce) and rafute soba tesoku (Okinawa soba noodle with soft stewed pork). Standard Japanese fare is also on hand if you don’t want to dive into something a little different. Does a great set lunch deal

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THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3837 1311 11.30am to 10.30pm daily Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef, the time spent in a real Thai kitchen shows at Coriander, one of the few eateries in town serving up decent pan-Thai cuisine. The egg-wrapped pad thai here is better than you often get in its country of origin, and the curries, som tam and tom yum goong are also good, with dishes generally going for between VND60,000 and VND70,000 for a main.

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in pan-Southeast Asian cuisine from Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Myanmar. Reasonably priced, with a great selection of health-conscious smoothies and juices, expect traditional favourites served in a boldly contemporary and visually arresting setting.

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KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr 7am to 10pm Now on its third location, the simply designed Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular. Two floors with a mixture of standard and sit-on-the-floor seating cater for a cosmopolitan clientele. The cuisine takes on the full Korean food spreadsheet with everything from banchan starters, kim chi and bulgoggi through to barbecues, claypot mixed rice and awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

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Rooftop 23rd Floor, Centec Tower 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City Just next to Diamond Plaza Tel: (08) 3827 9631 | Fax: (08) 3827 9632

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food Promos CARAVELLE HOTEL

On Oct. 8 Nineteen is adding more dishes for Canadian Thanksgiving. A feast of Asian and western classics, fresh and cooked-to-order many kinds of seafood, oysters, premium grilled and barbecued cuts and more. The star will be a whole roast turkey accompanied by stuffing, giblet, and cranberry sauce; together with favourite holiday foods. Priced at VND1,170,000 ++/ pax including free flow of red, rose, white wines. The Lobby Lounge is offering three types of freshly handrolled chocolate truffles with a flute of Taitingger Champagne from Oct. 8 to Oct. 21. Priced at VND380,000++. If extravagant and fresh seafood is your reason for gathering at Restaurant Nineteen’s buffet dinner, then do come again on the promotion week of Oct. 10 to Oct. 21. Shellfish enthusiasts can indulge with just-caught mussels, oysters, flower crab, scallops, prawns, clams and sea cockles. Priced at VND1,170,000++/ pax including free flow of red, rose or white wines. On Oct. 11 at Reflections, Ronald Otto will represent the Bodegas Lan winery during a five-course prix fixe dinner. Standout vintages from the legendary Rioja valley will be paired with a Spanish-inspired menu from the hotel's chef. For the fourth course, diners will enjoy an award-winning Culmen Reserva 2005 served with lamb shank and truffle ballottine, lamb broth couscous and tomato sauce, to be followed by cream Catalane and galletas Murcianas for dessert. Priced at VND1,480,000 net/pax. Saigon Saigon Bar is launching its own two-for-one happy hour deal from 4pm to 8pm daily. Patrons who order one Tiger Draft beer or glass of wine will receive the next one

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on the house. www.caravellehotel.com HOTEL EQUATORIAL

Balade en France 3rd edition returns on Oct. 26 & Oct. 27 with importers and major French restaurants joining forces to offer the best local recipes that come perfectly with white, red or rosé wines. Two return flight tickets to Paris await you in a lucky draw. Throughout October at Chit Chat @ The Café, restaurant diners can enjoy a French dinner buffet with dishes such as stuffed pig trotter braised with wild mushroom, Foie gras Poele, a selection of French cheeses and more. Priced at VND760,000 ++/ adult. Discover many kinds of crab cooking at Orientica throughout October and November. Crab lovers can choose from a wide selection of crab, mud crab, crab roe, simmer crab and soft shell crab in a variety of cooking ways such as wok-fried with salted egg yolk sauce, stir fried supreme soy sauce and more. Email dine@hcm.equatorial.com NEW WORLD

Held from Oct. 3 to Oct. 14, Parkview will be offering a Korean food promotion titled Flavors of Korea. With over 28 years of culinary experience at many international hotels and fine restaurants, including The Westin Chosun Busan Hotel, guest chef Song will serve over 30 hot dishes, salads and pickles featuring exotic flavours and fresh ingredients imported directly from Korea such as kimchi, Korean salads, bulgogi (soy marinated beef), japche (sweet potato noodle), bibimbab (Korean mixed rice) and Korean barbecue. Priced at VND500,000 net per person for the lunch buffet or VND820,000net per person for the dinner buffet. www.saigon.newworldhotels. com

out & about

See more at wordhcmc.com PARK HYATT SAIGON

Park Hyatt Saigon is proud to debut new customised set dinner menus in Square One and Opera. The menus will be changed monthly to tantalise the taste buds with new original creations. Dinner set menus start from VND580,000++. On Nov. 22 celebrate American Thanksgiving at Square One with a variety of dishes ranging from a glazed duck salad with sweet potatoes and chestnuts to the traditional turkey. Priced at VND990,000++/pax. www.restaurants. parkhyattsaigon.com SHERATON SAIGON

Join them for a German Beer Feast at Saigon Café every Friday night. Dine on a selection of German delicacies from the region including German cold cuts, oven roasted pork knuckle and many kinds of mouthwatering sausages. Dinner is priced at VND920,000++ per person. Level 23 Signature will have a German contemporary set menu for Oktoberfest. Executive Chef Jens Heier coming from Germany will offer a five-course menu. Enjoy a night with a single malt whisky at Lobby Lounge. There is a special offer of buy one get one free. Experience a glass of Glenfiddich, Macallan, Ballantine or Highland Park 12 Year old pricing from VND110,000++ per glass. Offer available during October, 7pm onwards. The hotel in collaboration with Diageo is organising a big competition at the food and beverage venues within the Sheraton. Purchase a cocktail made from Diageo’s products to have the chance to win a BMW 320i. The lucky draw will take place on Dec. 27 at Level 23 Nightspot. The BMW 320i is on display in the lobby until the lucky draw date. Email sheratonsaigon@ sheraton.com

Phap Hoa. This vegetarian eatery is a truly functional place, with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with faux meat such tomato stuffed with pork and meat-filled cabbage rolls sitting alongside mushroom, tomato and tofu fare. It tastes good, too. Just don’t expect the staff to bat you more than an eyelid.

ambience and interesting menu. With a regular buffet (check for details), eight specialities are also on show from salted tofu in claypot through to hundred flowers hotpot and Viet Chay spring rolls. Also sells a range of appetizers, vegetables, salads and creative mains.

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PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 3829 7943 6am to midnight Everything at this famous but strikingly traditional pho joint is largesse. From the size of the portions through to the plates of banh quay and fresh herbs as well as the myriad of other accoutrements, it’s all double-sized. Fortunately looks don’t deceive and this distinctly southern version of Vietnam’s national dish tastes good, too. Choose from a range of cuts of beef and spice to taste. Gets busy so expect to share tables.

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VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3821 1631 5pm to 11pm A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbequing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer. Often packed to the brim, the barbecue experience takes place at the table with diners either barbecuing the pre-marinated ingredients by themselves or with the aid of the waiting staff. Best to book in advance.

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PHO / STEAK 139 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 2791 6am to 2.30am Although essentially one the city's better pho restaurants, putting Vietnam's most iconic dish in a pleasant aircon setting, the two-storey, late-night Pho 99 is also known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of local beef bought in Cu Chi. Served up with mushrooms, onions and fries, the dish goes for well under VND100,000 a go, and is one of the best beefy bargains in town. It tastes good, too.

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VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3834 4473 7am to 2pm. 4pm to 10pm A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat. Furnished with dark rustic wooden tables and chairs, Japanese-style wooden carvings and tropical foliage on the terrace area outdoors, the specialities here are the hotpots and the daily specials. But the vegan menu runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes. Also has a range of sautéed fair.

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101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: 3602 2069 www.highway4.com 10am to 11.30pm The first Saigon version of the well-known Hanoi restaurant chain, Highway 4 is named after the six-thronged mountain highway that skirts the ChineseVietnamese border to the north. Serves up authentic Vietnamese cuisine and drink that reflects the ambience of the north and wider Vietnam, all set in a pleasant environment — the upstairs area has Asian-style, long-table, on the floor seating. Also does the excellent Son Tinhbranded rice wine liquors, with flavours ranging from plum to wild mountain apple.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3825 1330 lsq.reservation@gmail.com 10am to 10pm Open since 1995, a two-year hiatus preceded the recent return of this wellknown just-off-downtown eating haunt. Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — thin strips of marinated beef grilled at the table — this fan-cooled eatery is a pleasant step up from many of the city’s quan nhau. Also known for its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets. Try if you dare! 5/2 Hoang Sa, Dakao, Q1, Tel: 3910 1277 May, meaning cloud in English, is a spacious Vietnamese restaurant opened by French-Italian-Vietnamese restaurateur, Thai Tu Tho. Decorated with 20th century Indochine in mind, the restaurant is spacious and situated in a villa in the heart of Dakao ward, has a touch of understated luxury about it, too. Utilizing homemade broths developed by Tu Tho’s father, the restaurant also uses authentic homemade recipes such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. WIFI WIFI WIFI

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TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1 Tel: 3602 2241 / 01286 252351 7am to 10pm Popular with foreigners and Vietnamese, Quan Bui offers an extensive menu and reasonable prices. No MSG or sugar added and food is served in traditional pots/ crockery. This restaurant is worth visiting for its high quality food, chic black tables and inviting ambience. Western food also available but make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge.

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PAN-VIETNAMESE 34 Vo Van Tan, Q3, HCMC Tel: 3933 3636 www.khaisilkcorp.com 11.30am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch This purpose-built, four-storey building is coated in greys, browns and creams MID TO TOP mixed in with the Imperial architecture + + + of Hue, Chinese imagery and Terracotta BO LAC 3 (LOST COW 3) Army-style columns. All helps to create STEAKHOUSE the perfect, eloquent atmosphere for 71/3 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 8023 fine dining in a Vietnamese context. The www.lostartsaigon.com cuisine mixes well-known dishes from the 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm various regions of Vietnam, all served up If décor could have a voice of its own, here with a contemporary and welcome twist. it would be loud, clear, sophisticated and Good wine list. very funky, such is the contemporary but very retro feel to this more recent addition XU RESTAURANT LOUNGE to Alley Number 71. With a menu focusing MODERN VIETNAMESE on steaks, four cuts of either imported or locally produced beef are on offer, all served First Floor, 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3824 8468 up with a range of sauces. For additional www.xusaigon.com vegetables and sides, order separately. 6pm to 11pm An elegant, contemporary restaurant + + + CAFÉ IF whose unique décor has influenced the 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: 3846 9853 design of so many other eateries in town, 6am to 10pm five years of operation has seen Xu evolve Located in the grounds of a beautifully into a venue at the forefront of modern restored Indochina-French colonial Vietnamese cuisine. Pushing the Asian villa, Café IF is completely non-smoking concept of shared-plate dining, the fare and offers a concise array of MSG-free here ranges from the likes of banh cuon traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes thit heo through to pork wanton, bun cha, seared beef crostini, bo luc lac and include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew for breakfast, while all lunch Xu-style chicken rice, all served up with a and dinner mains come with a choice modern twist. AC AC AC

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HUE CUISINE / PAN-VIETNAMESE 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 8am to 9pm. Closed Sundays A new Vietnamese addition to the Thao Dien area for those who want good quality local cuisine for lunch or dinner in a quiet setting. A Vietnamese buffet can also be arranged for your own parties at home with take-away and delivery in District 2. A special BBQ with seafood and meat takes places every Saturday.

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STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3827 7131 quananngon@hcm.vnn.vn 7am to 10pm A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a

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HUE / VIETNAMESE 187ter Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 3829 7242 11am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm Formerly owned by composer Trinh Cong Son, the local equivalent of Bob Dylan, this iconic, local institution mixes dark brown Hue-style, Indochine décor with sullen lighting, white tablecloths and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. The fare is all Imperial Hue — goi thanh tra, banh uot thit nuong, bun hen and much more. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

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of different meats and fish, cooked in various styles such as stir fry, hot pot and curry. Has a comprehensive selection of wines, cocktails and fresh fruit juice, too.

PAN-VIETNAMESE 1st Floor, Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3829 9244 11.30am to 10.30pm Once a hotel for French Pondicherry Indian dignitaries visiting both old Saigon and the Hindu temple opposite, this converted floor of one of the city’s best-preserved buildings is home to the elegant, refined and atmospheric Temple Club. Serving quality cuisine from the three main regions of the country, impeccable presentation and the occasional modern twist makes this a great place to entertain. For the colonial setting, the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

PAN ASIAN HOTPOT Ground Level, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 6111 A Japanese-style rotating conveyor belt restaurant that substitutes sushi and sashimi for hotpot, diners order their preferred broth – choosing from Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Chinese or Thai style – each with their own individual pot. Customers can choose from an assortment of fresh ingredients, such as thinly sliced meat, fresh seafood and leafy vegetables, to be cooked on a high-tech electric panel, tailor-making their own dipping sauce by mixing and matching a selection of condiments.

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MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: 3848 0144 www.ktstranbinh.com 9am to midnight A converted French villa, when it comes to a romantic timeless setting and a mixed Indochine, rustic Vietnamese décor, this café-cum-restaurant stands well-and-truly alone. The work of architect Tran Binh, the cuisine here is good, taking in a mixture of street food dishes done well with good ingredients, together with a selection of more contemporary options.

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CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3825 1676 hoatuc@gmail.com 10.30am to 10.30pm daily The eye-catching flowery décor, purple velvet seating and outdoor tea garden at this well-known downtown restaurant is complemented by highly rated Vietnamese cuisine made using authentic, quality ingredients. Has a number of specialities including the pink pomelo squid and crab salad, the mustard leaf prawn rolls, the fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. Also runs separate cooking classes.

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VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 3823 3340 www.barbecuegarden.com 11am to 11pm A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. Specialising in all things barbecue, the menu goes from western and Vietnamese appetizers and salads through to combos, a la carte meats and seafood, vegetarian options, desserts and a kids menu. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair so expect smoke and lots of fun, too. A great place for groups and parties.

HANOI STREET FOOD 177 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3836 9185 This local, chrome table-topped eatery may not look like much, but except for the addition of Saigonese-style fresh herbs it does some pretty tasty and authentic Hanoi street fare. Dishes include the moreish bun cha (rice noodles with barbecue pork), nem ran cua bien (deepfried crab spring rolls), bun mang ga (rice noodle chicken and bamboo shoots soup) and banh cuon thanh tri (wet rice paper rolls), all at budget prices. Also sells decent com binh dan (rice plate dishes) at lunchtime. No English menu.

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converted colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented and loved Vietnamese eateries. Specialising in pan-Vietnamese street food cooked up in a hygienic environment using quality ingredients, dishes cost between VND40,000 and VND100,000 each. Not surprisingly the place gets packed out with noisy diners, so best to book.

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VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: 3821 2538 7am to 2pm, 4pm to 9pm One of the city’s oldest eateries (it was established in 1925), this plain but charming holistic little venue located close to Ben Thanh Market also does some of the tastiest vegan cuisine in town. Cooked up without onions, garlic and MSG, the fare ranges from curry noodles and fried rice through to a tantalizing selection of nonfaux méat tofu and mushroom dishes. It’s cheap, too, and the menu is also in English.

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VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3. Tel: 3848 3399 www.vietchay.vn 7am to 9.30pm Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received plaudits aplenty thanks to its contemporary Buddhist, feng shui-inspired setting, almost reverent

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SOUND & VISION LISTINGS

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

ARTS CLASSES 114 BOOKS & MAGAZINES 114 GALLERIES 115 LIVE MUSIC VENUES 116 PERFORMING ARTS 118 PRODUCTION COMPANIES 119

COLUMNS IN THE FRAME 114 FOR THE RECORD 1145 ROAD RULES 116 DECKS, DRUMS & ROCK & ROLL 117 BAND & DJ 118

ARTS CLASSES

BOOKS & MAGAZINES

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

ARTchitect A NATIVE OF THE PHILIPPINES, Nomer Adona first came to Hanoi in the 1990s to work as an architect for a prestigious Malaysian firm. But after the economic crisis in 1997 he shifted his focus to teaching the arts at the Hanoi International School in 2000. What began as a temporary job became a full time career. “I found teachers in international schools to be open minded, knowledgeable and bringing vast experiences from different corners of this world,” he explains. He also found inspiration from his students, fueling his desire to find his own niche in the arts. “When students see me working they are often curious. This curiosity and sense of inquiry can lead to authentic and tangible learning.” He describes his style as “abstract expressionism with a twist”. With his architectural background, Nomber was comfortable using construction materials such as silicon glue, putty, sand, cement, varnish and even coffee to produce his works. And with this form of mixed media, Nomer has created distinctive works merging Filipino ancient text called alibata with subjects that include women, children, Bible scriptures, poems and songs. AC

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WOMEN POWER His personal favourite work is a series called Vietnamese Sellers which was heavily influenced by the sculptural forms of the ethnic minority group — the Igorots from the Northern Philippines. His latest series is called Filipina, and pays homage to the unwavering spirit of women and mothers. “My source of inspiration with this work is the sincerity, care, loving, and long suffering character of women towards their children. I have seen how my wife takes care of my children especially during those times when they are sick. I could never replicate the amount of care and sacrifice that she exerts,” Nomer reveals. Nomer has participated in art exhibitions in Hanoi but this year he showcased his works at the Pinoy Ako Exhibition in the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts Museum and most recently the PhilippineVietnamese Art Exhibition at the Hard Rock Café. It took years of construction, deconstruction and reconstruction to find his visual art signature. And now that he has finally found his sense of self in his works, Nomer knows that (with some PVA glue and enamel) the best is yet to come. — Lyra Dacio

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189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults. Has a permanent exhibition at Flow Saigon (88 Ho Tung Mau, Q1).

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Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A new creative group invites new members every second Tuesday in the evening for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to more experienced. Contact John by phone or e-mail.

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94 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3914 7859 Set in a mixed colonial, Chinese shophouse building constructed in the early 20th century, this small Gallicrun bookshop specialises in mainly French language novels and non-fiction publications with a selection of second– hand Folio editions. Also stocks art books, coffee table books and French comics.

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2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 9650 www.pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City as well as other outlets throughout the country, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction on non-fiction as well as over 2,000 English language titles from publishers such as HarperCollins, Random House and Penguin — the fiction available ranges from classic and modern literature through to detective novels, horror, thriller and children’s books. If you’re looking for bestseller-list titles from overseas, this is the place to start your search.

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4 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0983 377710 www.shyevin.com Vin’s Space is a cosy, intimate, light-filled space that offers artists of all kinds a quiet space to work individually and share ideas and perspectives. Runs various weekly classes, including oil painting, drawing, figurative drawing and painting, and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

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40 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 5796 www.fahasasg.com.vn 8am to 10pm Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese. International best sellers, children’s books and toys and educational and professional textbooks are all available. Think the Vietnamese version of Waterstone’s or Borders and you’re somewhat close to understanding what this quality bookstore chain is all about.

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Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help you improve your photography skills. For more information on dates and prices, check out www. facebook.com/TheTravelPhotographers or email them on pstuckings@gmail.com or mark@driftphototours.com

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43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3502 1559 www.artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. Not only are the products current, but they also cover areas from art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping. Magazine titles in stock include the likes of FutureArc, GA Houses and Landscape World. The back room doubles up as an art gallery.

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SAHABOOK DJ

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 6290 6599 www.sahabook.com The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, the travel titles here range from titles on Eastern Europe to East Timor and city guides through to maps.

sound & vision

Also stocks non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, bills/coin collections and travel fiction.

GALLERIES BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: 3821 3695 www.bluespacearts.com 9am to 5pm With its ochre walls and internal courtyard complete with a quaint bridge, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Contemporary Arts Center is an attraction unto itself. Inside the 120sqm space, local expert Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia, from sculptures and luridly coloured abstract paintings to contemporary representations of timeless Vietnamese themes: village scenes, willowy girls in ao dais and water buffaloes in fields.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0908 878 317 (Ms. Mai) www.cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner on the outer reaches of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery (CTG) offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. CTG has been in operation since 2009 although its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade and has mentored a number of now well-known and highly regarded Vietnamese artists. CTG features primarily emerging and mid-career artists and has a regular schedule of exhibitions both at its main gallery space in District 1 and its satellite exhibition space in the Thao Dien Ward of District 2.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Quy Don, Q3, Tel: 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn 9am to 6pm Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock colonial mansion constitutes the private museum and art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Helpful and friendly English-speaking staff are on hand to guide you through the artists and styles of Vietnamese art on offer. Artists exclusive to the gallery include the twins Le Duc Hai and Le Ngoc Thanh plus Hoai Huong and Vu Thang. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to something approaching astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm Tuesday to Saturday Contemporary art gallery Galerie Quynh, initially promoting several of Vietnam’s pioneering abstract painters, now focuses on a wider international programme. In addition to working with a select group of artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of distinguished artists from around the world allowing the local community and visitors access to a diverse range of contemporary art practice. Working with art spaces and curators internationally, the gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) www.himikokoro.com 8am to 10.30pm Monday to Sunday A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes. Open for five years, this cafe-cum-gallery, the brainchild of local artist Himiko Nguyen, has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things. Recent works include The Happening, a year-long project that

sees a solo installation by a different artists showcased every fortnight until November 2011.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: 3829 4441 9am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. The first floor displays changing exhibits of contemporary art by local and international artists. Move one level up and the galleries display contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, featuring sketches, paintings and statues, many of which focus on the resistance to various colonial rulers. The third floor exhibits older works from the first century AD through to the early 20th century. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement, accessed through the courtyard in the centre of the building.

SAIGON GALLERY OF FINE ART

9 Phan Chu Trinh St., Fl 2-3, Q.1 Tel: 38226570 VN +84-919025726 / US +1-714 697 7037 10am - 7pm daily The Saigon Gallery of Fine Art is located on the West Wing of the famous Ben Thanh market. The gallery is set up on the second and third floor of an old French building that is accessed by a cozy hallway-entrance. Founded in 1999 with the objective of promoting contemporary Vietnamese art and providing support to young, up-and-coming Vietnamese artists. Various types of art displayed on different media include oil on canvas, lacquer on wood and paper works. The gallery organises about three Vietnamese exhibitions every year and the entire inventory of works is available to purchase via their website. Specific paintings by Vietnamese artists can be acquired upon request.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

213C Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3822 1366 129B Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 9pm Established in 2004, these two galleries focus on the contemporary art works of both fledgling and experienced Vietnamese artists from across the country. Works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu are displayed and an eclectic range of styles is featured, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism. Mediums mainly feature lacquer on wood and oils on canvas, although some silk paintings are available.

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3840 0898 www.san–art.org 9.30am to 5.30pm Mon-Sat San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space and reading room dedicated to the exchange and cultivation of contemporary art in Vietnam. It also aims to support the country’s artist community by creating opportunities that provide exhibition space, residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

TUDO GALLERY

53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 3821 0966 www.tudogallery.com 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 7pm Opened in June 1989 as Vietnam’s first private art gallery, TuDo specialises in oils, silk paintings and lacquerware, and has over 1,000 pieces across its five showrooms of works by city

for the record MESHELL NDEGEOCELLO — POUR UNE ÂME SOUVERAINE YOU MIGHT HAVE HEARD NINA Simone's name come up recently in an unlikely context — an imbroglio over the lightness of skin of the actress set to play her in a forthcoming biopic, "lightwashing" the colour which was one of the central facts of Simone's life. There aren't many entertainers to be found in the middle of controversies 10 years after their deaths, but Nina Simone, bless her complicated soul, is rightly among them. This is where Simone often found herself in life, caught between her own self and a changing world that had no place for her. Rejected from the Curtis Institute in Philadelphia, maybe the greatest classical conservatory in the US, for her colour, she cobbled together a musical style out of passion and circumstance, eventually becoming a leading figure in the civil rights movement. But perhaps her greatest contributions were her wistful, wan love songs, which centered on the subtle political act of black people loving each other.

The Bach of Soul Music

Ndegeocello has gathered quite a guest list, giving artists as diversely related to Simone as kindred crusader Sinead O'Connor, reclusive one-masterpiece wonder Cody Chesnutt and "organic moonshine roots" troubadour Valerie June an opportunity to take Simone's stillvital source material in fascinating directions. It comes off similar to the turns taken on Bob Dylan's character in the film I'm Not There — as if Simone's creative output is too multiplicitous to be represented by one voice. "I don't want to necromance," Ndegeocello said about the improvisations. "I feel like that goes on a lot." Collaborating on arrangements with longtime guitarist Chris Bruce, Ndegeocello carves out fresh territory for Simone's indefatigable spirit. Songs change in their care, in ways that echo the treatment of standards Simone long ago made her own. They caterwaul and slow-burn, simmer and breathe, and always, always carry the spirit of Simone in the exalted place it should be kept. — Ed Weinberg

Meshell Ndegeocello, a firebrand in her own right who has earned comparisons with Simone, returns the spotlight back to where it belongs — Simone's music, that seminal blend of gospel, jazz, classical, pop and politics. On her 10th studio album, Ndegeocello delivers a fitting testament to Simone's creational legacy — a 14song reimagining of Simone tracks running the gamut. "This is [our] people's Bach," Ndegeocello said in a Philadelphia Weekly interview, "so, you know, we have to come with some reverence and clarity."

November 2012 Word | 111

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112 | Word November 2012

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57H Tu Xuong, Q3 Tel: 3932 2797 9am to 11pm This unique establishment sets itself apart from other live music venues in Saigon as the city’s first 3D-themed café. Each floor of this French-colonial three-storey villa has been designed as a homage to both Sagionese and Hanoian street café culture. The ground floor is where the live music happens every Wednesday to Sunday from 9pm to 11pm with pop, rock and country sets performed by the growing plethora of local bands.

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8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3829 7699 6pm to 1am The inspiration for Carmen is the popular opera named, naturally, Carmen. In place of European leads are the musical talents of a local band as well as Filipino and Vietnamese lead singers crooning to Latin beats. As if being a venue built on Flamenco music was not enough to stand out in Saigon, it further differentiates itself with a cabin-like exterior, steep

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7 Pham Ngoc Thanh, Q3, Tel: 3829 0583 www.napolybar.com 7pm until 12am Named after the famed southern Italian city, the ground floor seating of this popular and somewhat upscale café looks and feels like it came straight out of Italy itself. The upstairs bar in the back is the place to catch local Vietnamese band Quoc Anh play classic 1980s hits every night from 9pm to midnight. WIFI

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23rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3827 2828 www.sheraton.com/saigon 7pm till late Tuesday to Sunday One of Saigon’s chicest venues with some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city, this hotel bar offers nightly live music (except on Mondays) from 9pm courtesy of the multinational sextet Motion. Expect a bit of everything from r&b, dance and jazz to hip-hop, rap and rock.

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decks, drums & rock n' roll

venues. Longtime house band, The Yellow, a host of Filipino singers and numerous local Vietnamese bands can be seen rocking out to ferocious covers of Metallica, Guns N Roses and CCR on a nightly basis between 9pm and 12am before a DJ takes to the decks to perform a selection of contemporary dance, hip hop and r n’ b tunes through to the early hours.

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41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: 3930 3154 www.metallicbar.com 9pm to 1am A popular destination for both locals and foreigners with a hankering for live rock music and a totally smokefree atmosphere, Metallic Bar is one of Saigon’s most established live music

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6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: 3829 5180 www.lahabana-saigon.com Saigon cover band stalwarts Carmen & Brothers play an eclectic selection of well known hits by the likes of Michael Jackson, Leona Lewis and Bon Jovi every night of the week except Mondays. The music usually starts at 9pm but arrive early to ensure prime seating in the lounge.

39/2 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3824 1963 lodgebui@gmail.com 10am to 12am Also known as Dust Lodge, Bar Bui resembles Seventeen Saloon with its red and blue neon lighting, bricked walls, wooden roof, columns and beams. It hosts live flamenco and country music every night from 8.30pm courtesy of three Filipino house bands. 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 8am to 1am This sleekly designed café morphs into a trendy live music nightspot with a selection of resident and guest DJs to be found behind the Sarato-programmed decks. Expect a multitude of electronic sounds, from deep and liquid house to lounge, disco, chill out, hip-hop and a bevy of instrumentals you’ve heard before but can’t quite put your finger on.

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We had 15 Minsks at one time which we used for rental bikes for the popular Saigon – Hanoi

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6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 Tel: 3930 2239 7pm until late Though only 1km from the heavily touristic downtown area, Acoustic is well off most foreigner’s radars. The allVietnamese house band performs every night, playing mostly western covers, and the space is perpetually jammed with young locals either bopping away in the crowd or getting up on stage. Known for being notoriously busy at the weekends, arrive by 7.30pm to stand any chance of getting a seat. Those with a love for heartfelt rock balladry and heavy rock n’ roll should check this place out on Friday nights. Has occasional guest bands from overseas.

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

them in Saigon. When we used them we relied on Cuong in Hanoi sending us down all the parts we needed! Another factor is also simply that the Saigonese don’t like them and they are looked down on, more so than even old Vespas were years ago. If the mechanic has no interest in doing a good job then it’s never going to be done correctly or rather as we perceive as being correct. At the end before we replaced our Minsk bikes we were having so many problems that we ended up transporting the bikes 75kms to Ba Ria to get work done, which was the nearest mechanic we could find who would take the job. Unfortunately I still don’t know of a reputable mechanic in the city who I would recommend.

8Bis Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 6679 2406 9am to 11pm A quirky, French-style café with a subdued and relaxing atmosphere. Each evening from 8.30pm the self-titled ‘Garden of Love’ houses live music with different themes such as Tien Chien Night (pre-war Vietnamese music), International Covers Night and Lovers Night. The stage is a quaint miniature theatre-style set up with white picket fencing and a painted backdrop of a garden positioned next to a tiny raised balcony where a pianist serenades customers every Monday night. Romantic ballads can be heard every Tuesday and rock every Friday.

LIVE MUSIC VENUES ACOUSTIC

road trips. After many years of trying to employ/locate a competent Minsk mechanic down here we basically gave up. The only guy I know that was half decent was based in District 4 but he is also long gone. The problem is that, although they are a very basic machine, local Saigon mechanics just will not touch them. I think for a few reasons including there are many ‘tricks’ involved with the Minsk and if you’re not familiar with these then working on them becomes hard and time consuming. They would much prefer to do a quick service on a Honda Dream for the same money and get the job done in a matter of minutes rather than hours. Also another major problem is that there are no parts available whatsoever for

JARDIN D’AMOUR

288 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 www.zerostationvn.org ZeroStation is a multi-complex studio space for young, experimental Vietnamese and foreign artists and long-term art project managed by visual artist, independent curator and art writer, Nguyen Nhu Huy. With a small installation room and two beds, artists can also participate in ZeroStation’s art residency programme.

Pat Joynt, of Saigon Scooter Centre, has been in Vietnam for 15 years, and working in the scooter and motorcycle industry for 30 years, restoring classic bikes, importing and producing parts. To ask Pat a question about your motorbike, email roadrules@wordhcmc.com

Hi Pat, I am a devout Minsk rider and having brought my babies down from Hanoi and taking them to the only mechanic I could find by chance who repaired Minsks. I stopped using him after a year when he sold my muffler without my knowledge when my bike was in the shop. Nasty words followed and I have been fixing it myself ever since. But, now, three years later, I need the gearbox taken care of and the electrics are failing and I don’t have the time, parts or skills to do this. Can you tell me of an ‘iron buffalo’ repair shop in the city? Thanking you, Mr Page

stairs, a small cavernous-type entrance and an interior highlighted by rough rock walls, wood beams and candle-lit beer keg tables.

artists. It aims to promote the works of contemporary Vietnamese artists to domestic and foreign art appreciators.

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97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 6024 9am to midnight Wednesdays and Fridays are the nights to catch local favourites such as cover band circuit legend Juram, and latin pop group Warapo. Juram is known for his gravelvoiced versions of anthems by Nirvana, Pink Floyd and Metallica, while Warapo serve up a very physical offering live and

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There’s ‘no Pain no gain’ when it comes to music as Lyra Dacio finds out ALTHOUGH ORIGINALLY FROM THE highlands of Scotland, rap artist Pain spent most of his childhood in his mom’s home country Spain where he discovered his passion for rapping and formed his first band, Taha Funk Clan. “I have been writing and recording rap songs for around 10 years. Rap has been my biggest passion. The first time I heard a rap song, I felt something that I had never felt for any other music. I identified with the lyrics and the artist,” he says. When asked about his musical roots, Pain explains: “I consider myself an underground/hardcore rapper. I’ve always listened to rap bands that sounded hard and energetic, like for example the Wu Tang Clan. When I was with my band I had a very closed mind about my rap style, it always had to sound in the same line, same topic and never mix with anything but rap. If it was not hardcore it wasn’t good. Now that I’m a solo artist and have had the chance to meet other artists of very different styles, I realised that I have to open myself to other styles and other people. That’s why now I consider myself a more professional and versatile rapper.” WE ARE HERE While gigging around town he’s

noticed that “the rap scene in this city is slowly kicking in. There already are some good rap artists who I admire a lot.” Although he plays dubstep and electronica when he emcees an event, it’s really rapping and free styling where he wows the crowd. At the moment, Pain is elbowdeep in organising shows and recording his first album with the electronic music producer, Sonic Uprising. “Until not long ago I didn’t really know many rap producers and so I couldn’t really get on with my work. I had lots of lyrics and ideas but no one to share them with. I needed a beat maker because all the music I do is original, I don’t use beats from the internet of from people I don’t know. That’s when I met Nic (DJ Seip) who was into making beats and had a home studio. We started doing tracks together until one day we decided to make a mixtape to let the Vietnamese artists that we are here.” Expect him to be coming out with a couple of music videos, a mixtape with a Vietnamese rapper, and his very own album in English and Vietnamese. Can’t get enough Pain? Check out www.facebook.com/ mcpain1, www.reverbnation.com/ painmc, and www.soundcloud. com/sonicuprising

November 2012 Word | 113

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sound & vision exotic Cuban salsa music.

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BAND & DJ LISTINGS BAD NEIGHBOUR claualehm@hotmail.com Bad Neighbour plays a combination of Latin and rock with some reggae and rap thrown into the mix. A multinational outfit with nine members, Bad Neighbour can be seen performing on Fridays at Hard Rock Café. BOB WITTENBACH (BONGO BOB) Tel: 0903 193241 Ex-professional rock, blues, jazz and pop drummer from London who has played with various artists including John Otway, The Breaks and The Scaffold. Has played many gigs in Saigon with Mike Belmes, Curtis King and Juram, among others. Looking to hook up with like-minded blues/rock musicians interested in bringing an Asian feel to Western themes. CARMEN & BROTHERS LIVE Acoustic Band carmenandbrothers@yahoo.com facebook.com/lahabanasaigon La Habana’s famous Filipino house band captivates audiences most nights of the week with Carmen’s extraordinary vocal range and an eclectic mix of classic and contemporary pop, r&b, retro, latin, rock and ballads CURTIS KING BAND Tel: 0908 339405 www.curtiskinglive.com A funky, bluesy, travelling rock ‘n’ roll band with an east-meets-west sound. Founded in 1996, the band has performed all over the world and has been featured on MTV, the BBC, China Central Television, XoneFM Radio and HTV. Having recorded four albums, the band can be caught playing throughout Vietnam and the region. Available for weddings, corporate, embassy, consulate or chamber of commerce events. DJ AJAM http://djajam.podomatic.com Vasco’s resident DJ Ajam (UK) available for private parties, clubs, bars and versatile in any style of music. With 17 years of DJing experience, Ajam has played at venues worldwide including the worlds number one club brand Pacha. Now teaching private DJ classes to all ages. DJ equipment and sound system for rent. DJ JORDAN HOWARD Tel: 01223 447721 whitfield@jordanhoward.net American DJ specialising in eclectic mixes of 1980s, pop, rock, and hip-hop to audiences of all ages and nationalities. A Vasco's veteran of three years, Jordan has played many balls and corporate events around Vietnam. DMA: DIGITAL MUSIC AGENCY 380/13B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3843 6459 (ask for Ms. Nhi) www.dma.vn DMA is the first international DJ training centre in Vietnam. Run by professional local and overseas DJs, DMA offers

training programmes and job opportunities for those wanting to become professional DJs or looking to learn for pleasure. DMA uses the latest professional DJ equipment and software, and doubles up as an events company and talent agency. EVERYONE’S A DJ everyonesadjvietnam@gmail.com www.everyonesadjvietnam.wordpress.com One of the top and longest running indie electro, 80s new wave, 50/60s dance parties in Saigon. Its concept is simple: to create a party with a DIY aesthetic heavily rooted in art, film, and design. Fronted by superkid, the parties occur monthly with rotating DJs and VJs.

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GILLES SNOWCAT (FROM AWAKEN) www.awaken.be, awamail@hellokitty.com Awaken’s Gilles Snowcat is in Saigon looking to join forces with musicians who don’t want to play it safe in order to make his magnetic soul music caress the eared need apply. JURAM GAVERO TRIO juramgavero@hotmail.com Juram has been playing around the city for the last 12 years, and is now one of the most popular acts in Ho Chi Minh City. His blend of eclectic music styles gathered from his experiences around the world stand him in good stead to make you enjoy your evening any night of the week.

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25C Tu Xuong, Q3 Formerly Tadao Coffee Bar, the promoters behind RockFanClub, the long-running underground Vietnamese hard rock and metal night, have moved in, finally giving the city’s moshers a home of their own. Local hard rock and metal bands can be found playing every night of the week from around 9pm at this tiny yet comfortable and cool venue.

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103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 3914 0007 www.seventeensaloon.co.vn 7pm until late A favourite among both Vietnamese and foreigners alike, this Wild West-themed bar doubles up as a great live music venue with no less than three highly talented Filipino cover bands rocking

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Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox 1 and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

MARK “MR. JOLLY” JOLLY Tel: 0918 119987 With over 20 years DJing experience and close to a decade playing in Vietnam, Mr Jolly can cover pretty much any musical situation from private parties to the largest club and corporate events. Can play a wide range of musical styles despite having very little hair.

CINEBOX

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3862 2425 www.cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: 3775 2521 www.lottecinemavn.com

RISKY RED rickreid@vnn.vn Either a three-piece acoustic light rock combo or a six piece full-on rock ‘n’ roll, blues and boogie, party Band. Regular around Saigon.

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: 3849 4567 www.galaxycine.vn

THE WANDERLUSTER Tel: 0122 3022 262 davis@wanderlustersvn.com The Wanderlusters are an acoustic, vocally inspired band, outfitted with traditional blurgrass instruments, that plays American roots music. Influenced by country, bluegrass, rock, folk, gospel, and blues, The Wanderlusters play your favourite hillbilly soul songs.

+ + + + + 17/13 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 0793 www.sheridansbarvn.com 9am to 12am Those in search for a sound of the familiar will find solace at one of Saigon’s longest running bars. A different cover band gets up every night of the week (except Mondays) at this pub-like Celtic establishment. Celtic Band knock out jovial Irish ditties on Tuesdays; the classic rock power of Risky Red and Mr. Bo can be heard on Wednesdays and Fridays; Wonderluster play pop hits on Thursdays, and rollicking Japanese blues group, 12 Bar Blues take over on the weekends. AC

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9th Floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com 11am to 2am Cuban bands are a mainstay at this outdoor bar with salsa band Warapo providing a musical melting pot of South American rhythms every Tuesday as part of the hotel’s Havana Ladies Night, while the six-piece Luna Negra like to mix it up with salsa, bachata and merengue on Wednesdays through to Mondays. Both bands start at 9pm.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

SHERIDAN’S IRISH HOUSE

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HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC 112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 3774 This colonial–era theatre is the perfect place for classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to other performance groups in the city. Also provides music education in undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate levels for the southern region of Vietnam. There are two concert rooms (500 seats and 100 seats) with two performances weekly. To obtain a programme of events, visit the Opera House.

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INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn www.hcmcchoir.com This well–established 40–strong choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3. The Choir’s repertoire includes classic works by Bach, Beethoven, Handel, and Verdi as well as songs from musicals, traditional songs from Britain, Christmas carols in many languages, gospel songs, and national and European Anthems.

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22A Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 Tel: 3933 0577 8am until late As the name suggests, John Lennon's wife inspired the name of this excellent bar. Refurbished and expanded in 2011, Yoko is undoubtedly one of the coolest and most unique venues in Saigon, hosting live music nightly from some of the city's best local musicians and bands, including 6789, Microwave and Coconuts. Expect classic rock, jazz, funk, country, metal, grunge, blues and everything else in-between. An unmissable destination for grassroots and underground music lovers.

www.saigonplayers.com saigonplayers@gmail.com A non-profit community theatre group whose mission is to uphold the arts while giving to charity. Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights at 7.30pm every first Wednesday of the month at La Habana and script nights at 7.30pm every third Wednesday of the month at venues alternating between Boomarang Bistro Saigon in Q7 and Geisha's Tea House in Q1.

PRODUCTION COMPANIES CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: 3823 7434 www.crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films. Facilities are located at Thanh Da Island and include two studios (400m2 and 150m2) as well as in-house post-production. Services include location scouting, casting, authorisations and permits, art department, production and direction.

FACT & FICTION FILMS

91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10 Tel: 0908 477079 www.factandfiction.tv Fact & Fiction Films is a diverse, creative, bespoke production company built on broad film and media experience. Their team has developed and delivered content worldwide and specialises in TVCs, documentary, web and TV content with vast experience in all stages of production from development through to post production and delivery.

PERFORMING ARTS HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 7419, www.hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet

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Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5416 0088 www.megastar.vn WIFI

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31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 3829 5451 www.idecaf.gov.vn

WARAPO BAND Tel: 0933 067752 warapo.production@gmail.com This high-energy seven piece Cuban band brings the sensuality and the passion from the Carribbean. Their music is a unique blend of styles ranging from salsa, merengue, cha cha, reggaeton and pop that’s ideal for events and private parties.

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74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3824 2888 4pm to 12am (weekdays). Open late on weekends. With two rooms set up to cater to bands and DJs (Yellow Room & Blue Room), Vasco’s is one of Saigon’s most prominent live music venues. Catering mainly to the musical tastes of muso expats, the likes of DJ Premier, Free The Robots, Handsome Furs and Daedelus have headlined this former opium den. Local DJs such as Jordan Howard and DJ Jase regularly put on nights with hip-hop, dubstep, drum n’ bass, reggae and dance firmly on rotation. Local expat latin-punk band Bad Neighbour also plays on most Friday nights.

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perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Shows feature both national and international stars, and take place in one of the most elegant buildings in the city. There are two annual seasons: Spring through summer (January to June) and autumn through winter (July to December), featuring performances every 9th and 19th monthly. Tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

out nightly. B & U, Wild West and Most Wanted impressively belt out like-for-like hits by rock staples such as Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses’ while pumping Vietnamese techno blasts out of the speakers in between sets.

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LEISURE & WELLNESS LISTINGS

LEISURE AMUSEMENT 120 BASKETBALL 120 CLUBS & SOCIETIES 120 COOKING CLASSES 120 CRICKET 120 DANCING 120 FITNESS 120 FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 123 GOLF 123 LEISURE - GENERAL 124 SPORTS CLASSES 124 TENNIS 124

LEISURE

visit wordhcmc.com for our comprehensive listings

VIETNAMESE CLASSES 124 YOGA & MEDITATION 124 WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 125 COSMETIC SURGERY 126 DENTAL 126 HAIRDRESSERS 126 MEDICAL 127 PHARMACIES 128 SALONS 128 SPAS 128

SAIGON EXPATS

AMUSEMENT DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 384 5845 6:30am to 5:30pm A mammoth of a place, the superkitsch Dai Nam is Vietnam's answer to Disneyland. Just 50km from Ho Chi Minh City past Thu Dau Mot on Highway 13, the amusement park rides include two huge roller coasters, an excellent go kart track, dodgems, kiddy’s bouncy castles and much more. Then there's the well set-up water park, a non-cringe worthy zoo modeled on its counterpart in Singapore, a 5000 sqm temple and the cultural area. Well worth the VND50,000 ticket price.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun. Hand over VND40,000 and you’re in for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun. The gaming area is a little on the small side but the equipment all functions well, and you’re provided with a fun and alternative leisure activity. A collection of arcade games can be found in foyer.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTQANICAL GARDENS

2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: 3829 3728 www.saigonzoo.net 7am to 5pm At less than VND10,000 for entry, Saigon’s Zoo and Botanical gardens is a great option for a day out in the city. Dating back to 1875, Saigon has one of the oldest zoos in the world, which makes it a famous site not only for the Vietnamese. You can get lost amongst the many rare orchids, ornamental plants in the garden or marvel at over one hundred species of mammals, reptiles and birds. Some of the enclosures don’t meet western standards so the wary should steer clear.

BASKETBALL PHAN DINH PHUNG CLUB

8 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: 3829 6312 Home to the majority of hotshot Asian teams including Filipinos, South Koreans and Japanese. Mismo Ngayon, one of six Filipino teams, play there every Sunday morning.

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kurtislaw@best.com.vn A basketball night at Saigon South International School every Thursday, open to anyone who wants to play or watch. Call Kurtis Law on 01265 638 486 to secure an invitation.

CLUBS & SOCIETIES INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM www.ilvietnam.com This long–established social organisation fosters social contacts for women in the city and currently has a membership of 500 women from 42 nations. The group offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Meetings are held at 10am every Thursday at the Sherwood Residence 127 Pasteur, Q3. Membership for the first year costs VND700,000; annual renewal is VND500,000.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3898 9000 www.parklandvn.com 6am to 10pm Opened in 2003 the Parkland Country Club offers a green retreat from the frenetic city with its 2-hectare space in An Phu. The club is able to organise a wide range of activities such as wine tasting and sports tournaments due to its extensive facilities, which include three different dining options, supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, 3 tennis courts, squash courts, a lap and fun pool, spa and premier gyms. Monthly memberships are VND3.5 million.

SAIGON TOWN CLUB

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3822 9666 www.sedonatownclub.com 6am to 10pm Up and running since May 1998, Sedona Town Club boasts two floors of modern facilities that provide private sanctuary from the busy streets. Amongst the attractions are the club’s recreational facilities, which include tennis courts, a sauna and Jacuzzi. Members can benefit from the secretarial support service on offer as well as the alfresco dining option offered poolside at the ‘Coco Cabana’. The lush garden adjacent to this outside eatery provides a great option for kicking back with a cocktail. A 3-month membership will set you back VND4 million.

leisure & wellness COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB

36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: 3820 9734 www.overlandclub.jp A Japanese home cooking class that meets every Sunday afternoon from 1.305pm. Run by a Japanese pottery artist, Overland Club also organises pottery classes, Vietnamese-Japanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating papers and multinational cuisine days. The club is open to all nationalities and ages.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC

74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3825 8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com Learn how to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local fine dining specialists Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients and the preparation of three tasty local dishes. Some tricks of the trade and the chance to sample the fruits of your labour afterwards also feature. A seasonal desert wraps things up nicely. Courses run from Tuesday to Sunday with two sessions per day from 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. The class is VND800,000 for adults and VND500,000 for children.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 0349 www.vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com Established in 1999, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy. Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa 15 minutes from the city centre, the course caters to all skill levels. An introduction to a traditional Vietnamese kitchen and cooking utensils is an added bonus as well as a trip to a central food market. For VND800,000 per person you can attend their morning course from 9.30am to 1pm or the afternoon course from 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Meals included.

CRICKET SAIGON CRICKET LEAGUE

The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations – Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka – as well as a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club (UCC). New recruits are welcome. The teams play on weekends at RMIT and have regular practice sessions. The season starts every October.

VCA (VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS: ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 Samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 Suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Mobile: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

DANCING DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung Tel: 3519 4490/4340 www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio available online.

LATIN STREET DANCE

Salsa, Merengue, Bachata and Reggaeton is taught every Sunday at Geisha's Coffee and Tea House (2nd Floor, 85 Pasteur, Q1). It's individual dancing (no partnering) and you just need to buy a glass of wine or a cocktail to participate. Contact fred@ salsaaigon.com.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 www.saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to their studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

SAIGON SWING CATS

www.saigonswingcats.com For lessons in the Lindy Hop, East & West Coast Swing, Shap and Jitterbug, visit the website for more information. Free introductory class every Wednesday at Caffe Molinari (Petrohouse Tower, 5 Le Duan, Q1).

FITNESS

Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, An Phu.

DIAMOND HEALTH CLUB

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found at this leading department store. Off–peak membership from VND1.7 million per month.

JOHN HUY TRAN, FITNESS INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 0983 789 318 jht_dancentre@hotmail.com This certified fitness professional offers tailored training for exercise programmes, weight loss, muscle gain and strength training based on 10 years experience in the fitness industry, dance and sports. Services include fitness and nutrition assessment.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 A 750m2 space that offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA and kid’s basic martial art classes as well as private fitness, bodybuilding and cardio conditioning. Come to get into shape, take out stress or learn a new sport with foreign instructors. Open to everyone from kids to adults and beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3825 1812 www.lacochinchine.net This new colonial–themed gym is a large, open–plan space, situated on the top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, loads of cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms. Also offers classes. Peak membership starts at VND2.2 million per month.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3932 5181 www.lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Taebo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. Membership to the small professional fitness studio costs VND1.8 million per month, or just VND1.3 million per month for a one–year membership. Drop–in sessions cost VND300,000. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room to help you unwind after a work out.

NTFQ2

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 3744 6672 ntfq@nutrifort.com Has a strong focus on fitness classes and personal training. Besides an excellent weights and cardio area, the facility runs group classes including power yoga, Pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. The centre also contains a spa and a restaurant serving up calorie– calibrated meals to help members stay in line with individual fitness programmes.

PAUL SIMOS

www.paulsimos.com paul@paulsimoshealthcoach.com Tel: 01286 305 982 Paul Simos creates a supportive environment that enables people to achieve all of their health goals. Paul has studied all major dietary theories and uses practical lifestyle coaching methods to guide clients in discovering which approach works best for them. Contact Paul for a free health history consultation.

PATRICK NGUYEN

Tel: 093 815 6865 www.corefitness.com.vn Personal fitness, yoga and mixed martial

AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien Road, Q2 Tel: 3744 2549 (Ms. Chi) www.aissportscentre.com With a 25m swimming pool, Astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay in shape. Memberships start at VND10 million per year and are payable in advance or semi–annual installments. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30–32 Le Lai, Q1 5F Hung Vuong Plaza and 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: 2222 0355 One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring state–of–the– art equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes such as Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance, Body Combat and more.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

19 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3823 4999 This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool. Monthly membership costs VND3.2 million.

CYRIL AND YOU-BODY AND MIND CO LTD

Tel: 0947 771326 www.cyril-and-you.com Nutritional advice and personalised programmes for body toning. Fitness at the BoatHouse in An Phu at 8.30am on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Also offers “Cyril & You Urban Fitness”, teaching children’s boxing, and fitness and cardio boxing for girls at Top Floor, 49

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leisure & wellness

leisure & wellness arts trainer with 14 years of fitness industry experience and over 10 years of experience as a kickboxing instructor at Gold’s Gym in Venice, California. Certified by the National Sports Academy Of Medicine and a certified Sivananda yoga instructor trained by Green Path Yoga.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. A good place to take time out at the pool–side bar. Costs VND400,000 a day or VND2.2 million a month.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 www.saigonnewworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool. Standard monthly membership starts from VND4.5 million while a day pass goes for VND450,000. Special yearly memberships and family offers available.

SAWANO NEWELL, US CERTIFIED PILATES INSTRUCTOR

Tel: 01225 811 080 www.sawanopilates.com Sawano specializes in Fletcher Pilates and personal fitness, and emphasises core muscle development to strengthen and tone the body. Savano is qualified in mat work and Pilates equipment, and offers individual and group classes tailored to your needs and schedule.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 1555 Membership costs VND12 million for six

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months and VND21 million for a year at this small but well–equipped gym. Equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0255 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness – Vietnam’s second largest gym. Memberships gives free access to regular fitness classes and involves a one-time free entry, plus monthly subscription.

STEPHANE LAPORTE, FITNESS COACH

Tel: 0908 897 604 www.personaltrainers.asia Stephane Laporte is a certified personal trainer and sports massage therapist. Take a free assessment and receive a tailored goal-driven fitness and nutrition programme to get you in the shape you want to achieve. Programmes include pre/post-race preparation and therapy, triathlon coaching, corrective and functional exercises, weight loss/gain, TRX, Kettlebells and Capoeira as well as many other services.

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5412 1277 clubgr@cswellness.vn Overlooking The Crescent complex’s lagoon, this multi-purpose and organically designed fitness and wellness centre offers an array of modern facilities. A state-of-the-art gym fitted out with the latest Technogym equipment allows users to track their progress with personalised keys, while other features include group

fitness classes, yoga sessions, a squash court, swimming pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext. 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. Call for further information.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 9009 info@saigonriverclub.com Equipped with technologically advanced equipment, large cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, this gym has spacious changing facilities with sauna and steam rooms, three group class studios offering Spinning, Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, Step Aerobics and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with Jacuzzi.

FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

www.vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play regular international footy matches around Asia. Training sessions are held weekly in both Saigon (2.30pm Saturday, RMIT University, Q7) and Hanoi (midday, Saturday, UN International School, Ciputra). Social functions aplenty for everyone. Regardless of age, preferred sport or ability, all are warmly invited to become an active part of an inclusive Club. Contact Nick on 0937 683 230.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

www.gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team welcomes

astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years. Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON RAIDERS

jon.hoff@saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams in the nearby provinces. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent for weekly training sessions and matches. Contact Jon Hoff.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

saigonrugbyfootballclub@yahoo.com Social touch rugby is played every Saturday afternoon for adults at RMIT University from 4pm. The Saigon Geckos welcome both men and women of all nationalities to join and enjoy a few beers afterwards. Does regular tours of the region for tournaments, as well as inviting visiting teams for ladies’ touch rugby, contact rugby and men’s over–35 contact rugby. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

www.saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

GOLF LADIES’ FIRST GOLF

www.ladiesfirst–golf.com A non–profit association of women golfers

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leisure & wellness in Ho Chi Minh City, organising monthly tournaments whose format varies from month to month, including single stroke play, individual stableford and two–ball scramble.

SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: 5411 2001 Visitors’ green fees are VND400,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course behind FV hospital. Fees discounted by 40% on Wednesdays. On the driving range, a basket of 50 balls costs VND60,000. Equipment hire is also available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: 0650 756 660 www.songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city. Individual memberships cost VND38 million or VND63 million per year.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: 6280 0101 www.vietnamgolfcc.com Also known as the Thu Duc Golf Course, this facility just off Highway 1 has two courses, one following a more Asian style, and one with distinctly modern touches. Both 18–hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

LEISURE – GENERAL HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

www.saigonh3.com Balancing beer and exercise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Also offers walking trails too. Bus leaves from the Caravelle Hotel at 2pm every Sunday.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 www.divevietnam.com Diving courses & trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu. Operates PADI–National Geographic Dive Centres in Nha Trang, Whale Island, Hoi An and Phu Quoc.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 members, including Japanese, American, Canadian and Taiwanese players. Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

www.thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts club, which runs a competitive league for 14 pub–based teams. Check out the website for details on how to get involved and to see the recent 180 scores.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

www.saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball. Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running

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leisure & wellness on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of 8 years old and upwards (including an adults competition). If you are interested in playing, whether as a team or an individual, please contact The Shooters by email.

SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3822 2098 ext 176 www.thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the squash court. For new players or those without a partner, there is a squash instructor who gives private lessons. Racquets can be rented and balls are provided inclusive. Book in advance. Day rate is VND250,000 for use of all facilities.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to noon. Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James (Tornados HC) on 0938 889 899 or Rina at rinabakher@ yahoo.com.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 www.saigon–ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 3pm to 5pm. For information how to get involved call David Jensen on 0909 458 890 or Tino Tran on 0903 042 014.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 6210 9192 www.xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 2. Prices start at VND170,000 for a group pass of four, with a two-hour safety course costing VND500,000.

SPORTS CLASSES CAPOEIRA

25 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 capoeira.vietnam@gmail.com For a different form of training, try Capoeira, an Afro–Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts, games, and dance. Held near the zoo, lessons begin at 6.30pm on Tuesdays and at the same time on Fridays at DanCenter. Admission is VND70,000 for one session or VND250,000 for four sessions.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 7303 1100 www.saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

TENNIS KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH INTERNATIONAL TENNIS COURT

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club. You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour, and all gear (including a ball boy) is available for rent.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDEIS – SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3910 3175 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern & southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities. Private lessons are VND250,000 per hour, group classes for 3 or more people are VND160,000 per person.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: 6678 0914/ 0979 654487 vnccentre@vnccentre.com VNC Vietnamese Language Training & Translation provides Vietnamese language training by qualified experienced teachers and Certified/ Notarized Translation by experts for types of materials and documents.

YOGA & MEDITATION DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo.com A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City for the last two years in a variety of locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. His yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga. Available to conduct personal, group sessions, health seminars and workshops.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

Tel: 0909 648193 www.michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city. Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

MY YOGA EXERCISE

Tel: 0128 630 5982, www.myyogaexercise.com Paul Simos offers power yoga to build strength, flexibility, balance and endurance while at the same time imparting a feeling of calm and relaxation. Also offers tropical Hatha yoga. Private sessions and group classes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers - Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 35149009 info@saigonriverclub.com Saigon’s luxury state-of-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week at varied times in a specifically designed soft floored studio. A host of certified, experienced international and local practitioners whose styles include Ashtanga, Power Yoga, Hatha and also Pilates classes.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 090 835 2265 www.saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a registered "Experienced Instructor" through Yoga Alliance. Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats & Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: 3848 5347 / 0913 764 776 www.shriyogavietnam.com Newly opened yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels; basic, intermediate and

advanced. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are held in both English and Vietnamese with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore. Scheduled 200-hour teacher training courses (RYT200) are available throughout the year.

STAR FITNESS GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0255 www.starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non–member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 3920 5813 www.soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in high-quality yoga training and yoga retail products, offering Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and other classes with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products from Manduka and Jade as well as locally produced yoga accessories and international yoga publications. Also offers 30 per cent off yoga class passes and memberships on first day of every month.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigongompa@gmail.com www.saigon-gompa.org Meditation group using specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

VIETNAM BUDDHIST RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Van Hanh Pogoda, 750 Nguyen Kiem, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0913 985403 bodhgayavn@yahoo.com.vn Well-respected Dr Thich Tam Duc, secretarygeneral of the research institute, teaches Theravada and Mahayana Buddhist meditation classes, with the ultimate goal of attaining true happiness. Open to both Vietnamese and non-Vietnamese speakers.

VIVACOLOUR

33/19 Quoc Huong, Q2 Lotus Road 28, Thao Dien, An Phu Tel: 090 3873 599, vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers tailored-made relaxation and meditation programmes combined with chromotherapy, essential oils and music. Laughter Yoga and a Colours Meditation group training workshop is also available. Contact Pascaline for more information.

YOGA ANUPA STUDIO

17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.anupa.net/yoga-anupa The Yoga Anupa Studio is a place where students practice yoga in classes limited to four students with highly qualified teachers who can assist students and also adjust classes based on the group's needs. A busy schedule of Kandalini, Sivananda, Hatha Flow, Yin, Ashtanga and Power as well as many other types of yoga is available throughout the week. Healthy drinks, breakfast and lunches are also organized to take back to work after class.

www.yogaliving.com.vn Conducting over 150 commercial and private classes a month, daily offers are Ashtanga based Hath yoga, Vinyasa yoga and Sivananda and classical yoga classes. A larger second studio equipped with six classrooms and 14 shower rooms in the centre of the city provides a great space for a yoga workshop, training and healthcare and lifestyle events.

post-operative rehabilitation.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Care 1, The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER YOGA GA SA SANTI

269/3 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 2110 www.yogasanti.com Operating to create an oasis of peace in Saigon, Yoga Santi strives to provide thoughtful and challenging classes for students of all levels while offering a variety of styles ranging from athletic to gentler classes. All teachers have received international training and are well versed in instructing Hatha yoga, Vinyasa yoga, Yin yoga, Hatha flow and Sivananda yoga.

YMC – YOGA & MEDITATION CENTER 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3929 1707 www.ymc.org A place to get away from the city for quality yoga or meditation practice. They offer daily classes of different yoga styles — Ashtanga, Power, Yin, Vinyasa, Hatha, Slow Flow and Funky Flow. VND400,000 for a one-week trial.

WELLNESS ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC VIETNAM

8 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 3930 6667 www.vietnamchiropractic.com A modern clinic providing chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot care, staffed by American-trained chiropractic physicians and an American-educated and licensed doctor of physical therapy speaking French, English, Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean. Includes treatment of back, neck, and knee pain, sports injury rehabilitation, and manufacture of medical grade foot orthotics.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

Family Medical Practice, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com www.saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, and special treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular etc), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders. Dr Kim has studied TCM in Korea and China and speaks Korean, Chinese and some English. A Vietnamese translator is also available.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy – the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system. English–speaking Dr. Le Hung can address all your needs in these areas.

OSTEOPATHIC MEDICINE / PHYSIOTHERAPY – DAVID TRUONG TAN

Tel: 0903 098 124 www.osteopathy–vietnam.com French–trained osteopath and physiotherapist specialising in treating back pain and other muscular, ligaments and joint problems. Osteopathy relieves pain and other discomforts using a global approach and gentle manipulative techniques.

SARAH MARTIN

Tel: 0937 442 516 www.sarahmichaela.com Australian-trained Massage and Remedial Therapist offering Deep Tissue/Sports Massage, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi Massage, Prenatal Massage and Reiki. Located in An Phu. Home visits available.

THETA HEALING

Tel: 0918 591 933 www.thetahealing.com A unique energy healing technique for mind, body and spirit. Jodie Eastwood is a UK qualified practioner based in Ho Chi Minh City. For more information or to book a session call or email Jodie on jodieastwood@gmail.com.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE Tel: 01266 626467 www.daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different, with a focus on breath and body awareness, combined with fluid movements to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

YOGA LIVING

Studio 1: 95 Pasteur, Q1 Studio 2: 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0905 735 833 (Thuy)

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leisure & wellness TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL

179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding. Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@ymail.com Vivacolour offers chromotherapy and chromopuncture - alternative fields of health care that focus on correcting energy misbalance by combining the energy of colour and acupuncture channels. Treatment is available for, but not limited to, muscular and joint pain, stress, sleep issues, jetlag, and tailor-made programmes for body revitalization, mood boosting, and to stop smoking. Other areas focus on treating asthma, ear infections, and general light children’s medical issues, as well as cosmetic problems such as skin wrinkling and sun spot removal. Contact Pascaline for more information.

COSMETIC SURGERY CAO THANG AESTHETIC CENTRE

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn A range of eye and aesthetic procedures are available at this modern hospital. With state-of-the-art devices, services include laser vision correction, cataract surgery, hi-myopia treatment, Botox anti-wrinkle treatment, dermal filler (Restylane) treatment, eyelid reshaping, eyelid fat removal and brow lifts.

DR. TU’S COSMETIC & LASER SURGERY CLINIC

290 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3836 7685 www.bacsitu.com Modern treatments such as ultrasound– based fat elimination and body contouring, Botox, restylane, and surgical interventions such as hair transplants, eyebrow lifts, nose, eye and ear shaping. The clinic director is a certified member of the International Board of Cosmetic Surgery.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3366 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, carried out with the best equipment by expert French and

leisure & wellness Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE 45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic minutes from downtown. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available by a foreign orthodontist.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordclinic.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses stateof-the-art equipment, including fractional CO2 laser, Q-Switch Nd:Yag laser, Fraxel laser, and is the only skin clinic in Vietnam offering Digital Dermoscopy for skin cancer evaluation. Other treatments include eczema, acne, psoriasis, laser treatments (wrinkles, melasma, freckles, scars, keloids); Botox, Restylane and Dysport.

DENTAL ACCADENT

Opera View Building, 161 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 822 8800 www.accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: 5411 3435 www.fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: 3823 0908 A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp–looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

COLOR HAUS

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 6999 www.sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems such as sagging, dull skin, unwanted tattoos and acne by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic has the latest therapies including laser hair removal, stem cell therapy, skin rejuvenation by IPL, Botox and filler hydrolifting, anti-aging and hair loss re-growth treatments.

products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal. Shampoo, cut & blow–dry for VND530,000. Mini facials from VND250,000.

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including a 20-minute teeth whitening using Brillica mouthpieces and LED lighting systems; general check-ups and cleaning (polishing & prevention), and a range of orthodontic work. Smile Dental Clinic is open Mon-Sat from 9am to 12pm and 2pm to 6pm, closed on Sundays and public holidays. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Long–established, state–of–the–art clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 6777 www.wescoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

HAIRDRESSERS ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon.com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the

23 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 www.colorhaus.com.vn A Singaporean–based salon specialising in hair colouring, treatments and styling. A team of local and foreign stylists will help you choose the hair colour and style that is right for you. A wash and cut starts at VND80,000 from a junior stylist. To cover grey hair, price starts at VND250,000 while a full colour and highlights range from VND350,000 to VND550,000. They also have a new nail care service.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4625 Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated and rebranded her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a designer villa in Thao Dien, Q2. Open daily from 9am to 8pm, a full new range of services is now on offer, including a dedicated salon for kids: Concept Kids. Only top products such as Alfaparf and Natural Rendez-Vous are used.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3827 2737 Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

LE GRAND SPA & FITNESS

Grand Hotel, 8 Dong Khoi, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 08 3827 0309. Open every day from 10.30am - 7pm. A hair stylist with 16 years experience including a long stint at Park Hyatt Hotel, Tommy Bui now works as a manager at Le Grand Spa Hotel. His hair salon is modern and relaxed, the staff professional and sociable. All famous cosmetic brands like L'Oreal, TiGi and nail water OPI are being used. A hair cut including washing and blowdry costs from VND500,000.

THE SALON

21–23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3822 9660 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 3821 6394 From the same chain as His Salon, these places have equally well–trained stylists offering simple haircuts starting from VND150,000.

VENUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look for a night out on the town.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy

(Cut and Colour Specialist), YKC Hair Studio atteacts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well trained staff and friendly English-speaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used. A cut and blow-dry starts at VND550,000. Moroccan Oil treatment is also available.

MEDICAL AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS 273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: 3834 9941 www.australianclinic.com.vn Services includes general outpatient healthcare, corporate / visa health– checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

CAO THANG EYE HOSPITAL

135B Tran Binh Trong, Q5 Tel: 3923 8435 / 0905 886 086 www.cthospital.vn Cao Thang is a comprehensive eye hospital overseeing 6000 surgeries per year (laser vision correction, cataract surgery and eyelid reshaping). English speaking staff, a member of the World Association of Eye Hospitals (WAEH), and quality assurance by the Joint Commission International (JCI).

CARE 1

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0757 www.care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

KIMAGE ACADEMY OF HAIR & MAKEUP

119 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3827 7700 SD-11,Panorama Phu My Hung, Tan Phong, Q.7 Tel: 5413 3300 Academy 117 Dinh Tien Hoang, Da Kao, Q1 Tel: 3911 0915/3911 0916 www.kimage.com.vn More high–end salon than school, this Singapore–based outlet provides hair treatments, from a simple wash and blow dry from a student (VND5,000) to multi–tonal highlights from a junior stylist (VND310,000). All services are monitored by highly qualified instructors. Appointments recommended. Open 9am to 9pm.

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

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leisure & wellness CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) – FOUNDATION ALAIN CARPENTIER

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine. A nonprofit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heat Institute to fund children’s operations.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1, Tel: 3823 8888 Well–established and well–regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with doctors (both overseas and Vietnamese) on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable, with a health check–up costing from VND400,000 to VND800,000.

tion and over the counter medication.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3932 1090 www.stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 3997 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad. Open & doctors on call 24/7.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider whose highly–qualified foreign and Vietnamese doctors can handle anything from emergencies to lab tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

PHARMACIES INTERNATIONAL SOS

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The in-house pharmacy at this well-respected clinic provides an excellent range of all medications, both over the counter and prescription-only. Pharmacy managed and staffed by English speaking team.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 Emergency: 5411 3500 www.fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, with maternity care a specialty. Hotline (24–hour) 5411 3500.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre conveniently located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

IFC INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY COUNSELING HCMC

A 2.4 Parkview Building, Q7, 28/1A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: 0903 031280 libbyzin@yahoo.com With offices located in district one and Phu My Hung, this nonprofit counselling clinic offers sliding scale fees to all its patients. For eight years in HCMC, IFC has been the only teaching clinic practicing western psychotherapy with attention to the values of other nationalities and cultures.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: 3827 2366 www.cmi–vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine. A non– profit medical centre, CMI sends its spare cash to the local Ho Chi Minh City Heart Institute to fund children’s operations.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. The International SOS medical team of expatriate and national doctors and nurses provide general practice consultations for the whole family. Specialist care is available in many fields, including general practice, women’s health, pediatrics, vaccinations, physiotherapy/ osteopathy, dental and more. In-house pharmacy has a wide selection of prescrip-

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Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes (VND400,000) to two-hour hot stone therapy (VND1.2 million), includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care as well as a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 3827 7188 www.indochine-spa.com Nestled in the heart of the city, Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with a range of aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by fully qualified therapists using 100% natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur Street, Q1, Tel: 6299 0563 www.mekongblissspa.com 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Located in the centre of Saigon, Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive plethora of services such as herbal foot scrubs, warm stone therapy and purifying facials, part of the proceeds go towards helping disadvantage youth in the Mekong Delta, meaning you’re making difference while getting pampered. What could be better than that?

SALONS FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 3521 0599 www.famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services (starting from VND200,000), offers massages for the tired executive, with a head, shoulder and neck massage costing VND150,000. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3; 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 1218 www.lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages (from VND550,000), facials (from VND500,000), sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing (around VND210,000). Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 In the heart of downtown and specialising in all forms of skincare, this is a well–designed and outfitted day spa offering body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments. Nice decor completes the atmosphere.

SPAS AQUA DAY SPA

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3827 2828 Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

CAT MOC SPA

61-63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: 6295 8926 www.catmocspa.com Established in 2010 and aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. Open daily from 9am to 10pm including national holidays.

GLOW SPA

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3823 8368 www.glowsaigon.com

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 6659 3609 www.koneko.asia/miumiu 10am to 11:30pm (Last booking 10:30pm) Located in the city centre, and standing for “Nyanya” (or “cry of the kitten”), Miu Miu is an elegant and serene Japanese spa offering various body, facial and foot massages, as well as several nail treatments including manicures, polish and design, and scrubs. Massages range from 60 minutes to two hours and rates are from VND65,000 to VND530,000. The spa also offers Thann and Harnn, popular beauty products in Thailand.

Q SPA & SALON

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3905 4609 An old world, Indochine-esque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a deep tissue, hot stone or four-hands massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

QING SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa above the foot massage salon that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service and members get a 20 percent discount off foot & body massage as well as a 10 percent discount on other services.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3520 9901 www.intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of the local therapists and the best of active pure ingredients and exotic botanical recipes, bringing to life Asia’s healing traditions.

SPA TROPIC

79 2/1 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: 3910 5575 www.spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed

from the 15-hole lace-ups from the past. But then, with Dr Martens its all about the quality of the soles.

visit wordhcmc.com VIVEKKEVIN for our comprehensive GALLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 6291 8162 listings www.galleryvivekkevin.com

LISTINGS

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THANH SANCTUARY

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate and beautifully decorated with furnishings brought in from Thailand. Treatments focus on relaxation therapies such as massages and body scrubs.

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 2220 2600 www.spa1960.vn A luxury health spa located on the top floor of Sailing Tower in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City. Designed with traditional Oriental spirit, the spa focuses on offering both relaxation and health care therapies to all clients. Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists and applied to the particular health condition of each client.

LIGHTING 133 ELECTRONICS CAMAERAS 133 COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES 134 MOBILE PHONES 134 GROCERIES BAKERIES 134 CATERING 135 GROCERIES 135 LIQUOR & WINE 136

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362 Huynh Tan Phat, Q7; 193 Vo Van Ngan, Thu Duc; 55 Pham Van Thuan, Bien Hoa Tel: 097 7872 777 This cute little store has been gaining popularity amongst Vietnamese and foreigners alike. Although dinky from the outside, 2K stocks an impressive, colourful selection of purses, wallets, handbags, manbags, laptop carriers, backpacks and suitcases. If you’re hunting for a good value, last minute purchase, then 2K is well worth the visit. Prices range from VND100,000 to VND1.5 million.

THE SPA MIU MIU FOOT & SPA

style

STYLE

in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Established since 2002, Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service. Spa Tropic offers a complete range of spa services and an al fresco café with a healthy food and drinks menu crafted by a New York trained organic chef.

Saigon River Club, Saigon Pearl, Ruby 1 Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 9006 The Manor, 1st Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: 3514 0290 www.thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

ACCESSORIZE

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

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New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 3829 4000 ext. 2235 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level. Six treatment rooms for women, four treatment rooms for men, one foot massage room and two VIP spa suites (couples’ treatment rooms) are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Treatments start at VND400,000 and packages are available regularly.

B1-37 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9308 9am to 10pm One of the most instantly recognisable international retail brands operating inside Vincom Center, Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to stocking an attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses and much more. Prices vary depending on type and design but generally start from around VND200,000.

THE SPA AT THE DUXTON HOTEL

B.O.M SHOP

Duxton Hotel, 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3822 2999 www.duxton.com Conveniently located in the very central Duxton Hotel, The Spa offers a full range of services including deluxe manicures and pedicures, aroma body massages, 60–minute foot massages, and the usual sauna and steam bath facilities.

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Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: 3824 1234 www.hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury downtown spa noted for its tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages (from VND900,000), facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

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18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9306 9am to 10pm This airy, well-displayed and wellorganised Singaporean store has two branches in town. An elegant beige frontage stands out thanks to three large hanging posters. Sells women’s shoes, bags and accessories with a wide range of products from boots, heels and sandals to bags and clutches. Prices are acceptable for an international brand with a pair of thong sandals costing VND775,000 and leather bags starting at VND1.1 million. There is also a selection of sunglasses from VND1.1 million and belts for VND600,000.

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1B Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm It’s hard to ignore this store as its frontage is painted in a stark lemon yellow. Well-known for its selection of recycled bags made from plastic feed sacks, coming in all designs and colours, the unique product selection includes colourful quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery, scrap metal animals and other such wares. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

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B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Stands out from the crowd thanks to its wooden and neon-lit frontage and eyecatching wooden shelves and boxes used to display its Birkenstock brand products. Selling shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany made with various designs and colours, there are also similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

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YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 3829 2791 www.ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction for over a decade has firmly established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors. Complimentary beverages are offered in addition to a complete range of professional spa services. Family owned since 1996, YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

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2 Thao Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 01283 221705 / 0986 024367 www.bandzofmonkeyz.com B.O.M provides imported, high-quality

XUAN SPA

BIRKENSTOCK

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127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3832 3904 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm Dr Martens has come a long way from the punk era of the late 1970s when its boots first gained popularity as a hard-man (or woman) accessory. Indeed, according to a recent consumer survey, eight out of 10 urban Vietnamese teenagers own a pair of sandals from this global shoe brand. Standing out thanks to its bright yellow signage, the street style and wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots that contrast

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9.30am to 8pm Located next to Jaspa’s and run by jewellery and furniture designer Vivek Chaudhary, this retail-cum-gallery space is decked out in white giving it a sleek aura of elegance. Specialises in contemporary and exclusive arty jewellery including rings, bracelets, necklaces and medals all displayed in U-shaped cases. The products are handcrafted and made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials consisting of precious metals, plastic, zinc or fiberglass. There are also exhibitions and gallery talks every month and the gallery stocks the work of guest jewellery artists. Check the website for details.

IPA-NIMA

helmets from Italy and China, bean bags, authentic sunglasses from France, highquality raincoats for kids and adults, and other accessories.

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77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 2701 www.ipa-nima-boutique.com 9am to 9pm Looking for fun, sexy, glamorous accessories? Look no further. Dubbed one of the most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery in Vietnam, Ipa-Nima is the brainchild Hong Kong-born designer Christina Yu. The flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes definitely catch the eye. Also stocks shoes, dresses and hats. Prices range from for bags, VND1.2 million to VND2.1 million for shoes and from VND3 million for dresses.

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174 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3926 0270 www.jemma.com.vn 9am to 10pm A branch of the Vietnamese SJC company, the elegance and luxury of this space provides instant temptation for the avid shopper. All products are made in Vietnam with imported rare stones that increase the value of each piece. A coral necklace costs around VND900,000 while a silver ring with an angel hair stone is stocked at around VND1.5 million. A selection of bags starts from VND1.4 million.

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67 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4007 Mom_07_2003@hotmail.com 8am to 10pm This small two-storey shop contains a huge collection of cool and funky jewellery. There are also selections of ethnic bags, fabulous hand-made silver pieces and lacquer items. All products are from Vietnam. Prices begin at VND160,000 and intricate designs cost over VND2.1 million. The staff is friendly and speak English.

SERGIO ROSSI

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TDC SWISS WATCHES

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1. Tel: 3823 3807 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1. Tel: 3929 0685 www.tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm The wide signage on the front of the shop name checking a host of famous international timepiece brands means this shop is unmissable. Large and with in-your-face displays, TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. A funky plastic Swatch strap watch costs VND2 million while a classic gilded Longines strap starts at VND11 million. Also stocks high-end brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

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115 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 9582 www.hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm The award-winning SKECHERS is one of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands. Now the number two footwear brand in the US with new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old, SKECHERS is fast becoming a popular choice with Vietnamese. The display is

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72 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 3519 www.tictacwatch.com 9am to 8pm The pleasant and steady sound of a watch stays the same. However, its design has evolved along with mankind. So has the TicTac Company, growing from a family watch specialist store in Ho Chi Minh City in 1978 to an elegant black-andgold designer watch showroom. Stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Baume & Mercier, Maurice Lacroix, Armand Nicolet, Mido, Hirsch and Swiza. Also provides repairs and battery changes. Time seems to never stop at Tic Tac Watches.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3827 3756 www.theresejewelry.com 8am to 7.30pm A good place for luxury jewellery, this store is located on a tiny street in between Nguyen Hue and Dong Khoi. However, it stands out thanks to its décor and design with a big wooden and glass door. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, an oval pink stone necklace, a gold plain daisy brooch, all displayed in a U-shaped wooden case. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring. Men can also find a selection of cufflinks here.

VESPA SHOP

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Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 11am to 8pm Located inside Saigon Square, this store is perfect for anyone looking to indulge in their obsession with classic scooters. Stocking a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia from Saigon Scooter Centre, the wares include t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and much more. Rental scooters and bikes are also available.

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146AB Pasteur, Q1. Tel: 3824 8382 10.30am to 8.30pm Located opposite Labella, the luxurious design and appearance of this quiet shop actually intimidates passers-by. Features upmarket shoes and bags made from high-quality materials such as crocodile or python skin and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads. Prices vary but a normal pair of shoes starts from VND21 million. Credit cards (of course) are accepted.

SKECHERS

impressive with shoes in many designs and colours hanging on the walls. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

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32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0907 168910 www.yimbaderjewelry.com Situated on the same site as Snap Café, YB is a small shop with simple décor, offering all kinds of jewellery including earrings, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Most of the products are handmade and crafted from various gemstones consisting of turquoise, quartz, jasper and hematite. Prices are affordable, depending on the type of gemstone and design, but usually start from VND50,000. Also offers custom orders.

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147 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Even though their business card claims Marathon to be a sports fashion store, it’s actually a beachwear shop. With an orange frontage, this outlet quickly

November 2012 Word | 125

style grabs the attention of passers by. Displays many products in a simple and accessible style, offering colourful beach pants, t-shirts and flip-flops for men and women, caps, and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices range from VND110,000 to VND190,000 for a t-shirt, and VND140,000 for a pair of flip-flops.

its large white-painted Renaissancestyle columns. Despite its size, a lack of adequate lighting gives the shop a slightly darker feel. Has the same prices as Maxxstyle and also stocks similar products.

PAPAYA

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3839 2292 9am to 10pm This Hong Kong-brand retailer sells both male and female casual wear, including jeans, khaki trousers, tees and shirts. Although carrying various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts, there are not many products. Prices range from VND900,000 for a pair of women’s jeans and VND700,000 for a shirt. Also stocks socks and belts.

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171 Bui Vien, Q1 www.papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts for both men and women, which are manufactured in Vietnam. Also offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. A part of the profit from each sale is given to two charity organizations, Poussieres de Vie and the Endangered Asian Species Trust. A t-shirt starts at VND189,000, a cap costs VND99,000 and a post card is only VND15,000.

ORANGE

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174 Bui Vien, Q1; 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3; 228 Vo Van Tan, Q3; 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 9am to 10pm This hip-hop-cum-skate store has played a large role in the current rise of local, non K-Pop street fashion thanks to its branded mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps, accessories and more. Naturally, there is also a range of skateboards on sale, with the board and wheels costing anywhere between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

GINKGO

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180 Bui Vien, Q1 238B Pasteur, Q3. Tel: 3820 2620 152 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3836 5028 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults. Despite simple décor, Orange stands out thanks to the array of colourful products hanging on the wall including jeans, t-shirts, bags, sandals and belts. A selection of attractive hats and leather bracelets are also stocked. Prices are affordable with t-shirts selling for VND180,000 while bags go for between VND90,000 and VND600,000. Shoes start at VND400,000 a pair.

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54-56 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 0905 493148 www.ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnam-themed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run clothing store that also has an outlet in Nha Trang. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. Has a permanent photo gallery upstairs exhibiting the works of Thiery Beyne.

MAXXSTYLE

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52 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3833 4299 150-152 Hai Ba Trung, Q3. Tel: 3824 9534 8.30am to 10.30pm Located next to Zen Plaza, this Vietnamese brand is one of the best-known shops in town for unisex clothing. Contains a wide range of apparel including jeans, tees, shirts, jackets, khaki trousers and much more, all displayed in a huge retail space. Stocks many different designs, fabrics and colours, and prices are good. A pair of men’s jeans starts at VND500,000, and VND450,000 for women, while a female shirt costs about VND300,000 and VND279,000 for a printed male tee.

NINOMAXX

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118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3824 9689 www.ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm A brother of Maxxstyle, this brand is well-known locally for both its men’s and women’s clothing. Set in a large, two-floor space, Ninomax stands out thanks to

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89 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8325 itshappenedtobeacloset.wordpress.com 9am to 9pm More than just a typical clothing store, It’s Happened To Be A Closet (also known as Ethophen) not only carries a colourful range of retro-ethnic Thai bohemian women’s wear, but doubles up as a Wi-Fi friendly café stocking an impressive array of imported food and beverages, as well as artful jewelry, handicrafts, comestibles, accessories and books. Also offers manicures and pedicures. CASUAL WEAR

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Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 Located on the 2nd floor of the Gaya, all the clothing here is designed and tailoredmade by renowned French-Cambodian designer Romyda Keth and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. There are plenty of colourful and sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops. If it doesn’t quite fit, alterations are available. Prices start at VND2 million for a normal party dress. Also stocks a small selection of men’s shirts.

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85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3829 4004 8am to 10pm The products of this Australian fashion label are displayed on the basement floor with contemporary ranges of casual and eveningwear fused with Asian designs. The work of proprieter Hellen Holani, the apparel includes sweet floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Worth a visit with friends so you can also enjoy a cup of coffee at the in-house cafe while waiting to pick up your clothes.

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47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 315A-317 Ba Thang Hai, Q10. Tel: 3240 7460 225 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3. Tel: 3240 7461 9am to 9.30pm For cosmopolitans who love genuine Levi’s Jeans, there are numerous of the self-branded stores throughout the city. Invented by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, the brand has become one of the most recognisable and imitated pieces of clothing throughout the world. The stores here offer a wide range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices vary but normally start at VND2 million for a pair of woman’s jeans.

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L1-08, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7493 www.8lions.com 9am to 10pm Located inconspicuously on a corner of the Vincom Center, customers have trouble finding this generically designed shop. Stocks both casual and formal wear for men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. Prices here are also surprisingly reasonable. A male tee starts at VND750,000 while a pair of men’s jeans goes for as little as VND1.8 million. There is also a small selection of bags and belts.

GAYA CLOTHING

LEVI’S

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85-87 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3823 0172 9am to 9pm Located opposite Sergio Rossi, the decorative style and display of this Vietnamese fashion outlet is both impressive and endearing, using strong colours like orange and wood-brown to catch the eye. Products include a comprehensive range of silk dresses, halters and skirts. A large selection of bags is displayed on colourful and eyecatching box-shaped shelves. Also offers night and loungewear, scarves and belts.

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89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: 3925 5164 www.d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by the modern woman with a youthful attitude, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. A complete lifestyle collection that offers a broad range of stylish looks to take women from day to night and work to the weekend. Accessories are also available. A dress costs from VND1.5 million.

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40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: 3824 7114 10am to 7pm Located near the corner of Pasteur and Ly Tu Trong, Liti harks back to Vietnam’s French colonial era. Stocking simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, other retro ware includes clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products. A simple black blouse starts at VND820,000 while an old clock costs upwards of VND3 million.

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LOLITA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Parkson, Saigon Tourist Plaza, Level 2, 35 Bis 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (opening Aug. 15) Parkson, Flemington, Level 2, 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q11 (opening Sep. 1) Tel: 3925 9993 www.lolita.com.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, offering stylish and comfortable easy-to-wear clothing for work or play

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First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm A contemporary shopping experience can be enjoyed at this fashion boutique, café and art gallery. A spacious, elegant Indochina-themed image of a 1930’s French garment factory, L’Usine stocks exclusive labels from all over the world, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons tailored to the climate of Ho Chi Minh City. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, home-wares, nick-knacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

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THUY NGA DESIGN

MANGO

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43 Thao Dien, Q1, Tel: 3744 2411 www.er-couture.com 9am to 8pm This Scandinavian outlet is situated on the first floor of An Phu market, stocking high-quality designer garments. Carries a full range of products, from floral dresses to tight tanks starting at VND1.8 million, as well as chiffon shorts and high-waist trousers for VND2 million. Shoes, bags, belts, scarves and hats are also carried as well as larger sizes.

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Continental Hotel, Mai’s feels more like an art space than a fashion shop. Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories. Her renowned signature pieces include velvet and cotton ao dai reworked for casual wear, as well as hand embroidered vintage US army and flak jackets. Also stocks a fine selection of artworks. Prices range from VND1 million to VND80 million for clothes, and VND600,000 to VND40 million depending on styles and materials.

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2733 9.30am to 9.30pm Based on the ground floor of the

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40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1. Tel: 3925 1136 96 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3824 6624 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9300 www.maisonco.com 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand is located in an impressively designed two-storey building with a black-painted neon logo outside. The entire shop is well displayed with air-conditioning and professional staff, exuding a feeling of class but not luxury. Provides a full range of clothing including jeans, tees, skirts, trousers, cardigans, leggings and much more. There are also selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves. A shirt costs from VND1.2 million, and a pair of jeans starts at VND1.4 million. Visit the website for more Mango outlets in town.

MR & MRS SMITH

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43 Ton That Thiep, Q1. Tel: 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet, located in the same building as Dogma and Saigon Kitsch, sells a variety of men’s and women’s clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam for export markets in Europe, Japan and the US. All designs are brand new, delivered directly from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices (VND100,000 to VND70,000).

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19 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: 3820 3574 www.thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm With over 15 years in the trade, Thuy Nga is one of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam. This luxurious shop stocks both men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear. A long-sleeved women’s shirt starts from VND1 million while a male striped shirt starts from VND1.3 million. Also stocks jewellery and accessories. CASUAL CASUAL WEAR WEAR CASUAL CASUAL CASUAL FORMAL FORMAL WEAR WEAR WEAR WEAR WEAR FORMAL FORMAL FORMAL WEAR SHOES WEAR SHOES WEAR

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35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Impressively designed with exposed brick walls, Umbrella is airy and well displayed with warm lighting exuding a comfortable atmosphere. Sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses. Prices vary, starting from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

TOP-END ANUPA

Villa Anupa, 17/27 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3825 7307 Eco Luxe Anupa, 9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3822 2394 www.anupa.net Situated in a French villa-style home and converted into an eco-boutique, Villa Anupa houses the complete Anupa Collection as well as the products of Anupa Horvil's handpicked eco designers. Anupa’s collection features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women as well as many other pieces from yoga bags to belts. Other designers

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include Unit T bamboo eyewear, Miguel la Salle and Things of Substance to name but a few. Recently expanding to another location, Anupa has opened an Eco-Luxe boutique which carries a smaller selection of her collection. Both stores are open from 9am until 8pm daily.

CHLOE

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the middle of the store containing other accessories.

VERSACE

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211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3827 5695 www.xuanthuswimsuit.com 8am to 8.30pm Situated on the corner of Truong Dinh and Ly Tu Trong, Aquamarine is a classy branch of Xuan Thu swimwear. A small shop full of colourful products, a step inside results in a sensory overload. Offering custom orders, the stock here runs the gamut from one-piece bikinis through to twopieces as well as monokinis and various types of beachwear with different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini. Also stocks a small selection of scarves.

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155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3580 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel next door to Chloe, this urban American brand carries international-standard clothing and a wide range of sophisticated bags placed on wooden shelves, costing from around VND6 million. There is also a glass case in

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M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3993 9005 9am to 10pm Contemporary decor with large mirrors and leather sofas creates the setting for a range of products catering for both men and women. The apparel of this Italian brand varies in both design and fabric, helping shoppers identify with contrasting international fashion trends. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million. There is also a small selection of bags and scarves.

MARC JACOBS

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M-15, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 9am to 10pm Spacious, well-displayed and stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, Versace is shopping at its most lavish. The products come in many colours and fabrics, designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers. Prices are expectedly expensive; a well-tailored floral dress will set you back VND40 million. There is also a small selection of shoes and bags.

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 6291 3582 10.30am to 8.30pm Located inside the Rex Hotel, this Parisian fashion house is one of the most popular international brands with local celebrities due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products. Chloe Saigon stocks a range of Chloe products, from low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes to Sakia bags. There is also a selection of glasses in many cool and contemporary styles and designs.

JUST CAVALLI

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underwear, sleepwear and sportswear. Prices of imported clothing are slightly more expensive compared to domestically manufactured products. A sport tee ranges from VND150,000 to VND180,000, while a pair of long johns starts at VND200,000, with a sports outfit costing VND300,000.

Zen Plaza, 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm One of the most popular underwear brands in Vietnam, the American selfbranded shop stocks a full range of Vietnamese-manufactured or imported products for men and women, including

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139 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 3823 3757 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the best local swimwear brands in Vietnam, La Ha caters for both men and women. The shop is small and simply decorated but contains a comprehensive range of products with many different designs and patterns. Prices start at VND175,000 for a bikini. Also stocks yoga and gym outfits.

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127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm This brand is better known on Facebook than in The Backpackers’ Area. Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and two-piece bikinis starting from VND250,000. The shop has been designed well making it easy to search for the right swimsuit. Also stocks maxim dresses at VND380,000 and beach sandals at VND110,000. A small selection of earrings and sunglasses is available. Search on Facebook for ssuziswimwear for new designs and promotions.

TRIUMPH

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Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 5756 Saigon Tax Centre, 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3914 3202 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, Triumph’s high-quality products make women look and feel good.

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23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. Tel: 6290 9391 www.nganasia.com 9am to 8pm Ngan has become a well-known brand due to their distinctive tailor-made clothing and designs. Stocks mainly women’s clothes, however, men are also suitably catered for. The entire shop is designed in a sleek and luxurious black with cozy lighting emanating from a pendant light fixture. Due to the elegant and sophisticated designs and high-quality fabrics, prices are more top-end, with a party dress ranging from VND6 million to VND10 million a piece, and a normal dress starting at VND3 million. There are selections of boots, belts, scarves and jewellery boxes. Also does bespoke orders.

RAZ GARNETT

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137 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 01222 210008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, a wide range of sneakers and authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops. Crocs sandals are also displayed in the middle of the store. T-shirts range from VND400,000 to VND900,000, VND400,000 for a bag and VND700,000 for sneakers. Also stocks sunglasses starting at VND400,000. Has European-sized t-shirts.

SONG

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1st Floor, Saigon Centre, Q1. Tel: 3821 5292 76D Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3824 6986 This t-shaped and turquoise-painted store is located on the first floor of Saigon Center, stocking the clothing of French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie. All the designs have a quaint, slightly Gallic feel and are made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton. A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000 and a spandex shirt goes for VND1.5 million. Also stocks shoes, sandals and a small range of accessories.

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However, because of the form of the bra cup, this brand is considered to be more suitable for European women. The bras are plentiful and come in many different colours, styles and designs, while the pants look more classic and traditional compared to other brands. Prices vary but normally a bra starts at VND600,000 and a pair of knickers goes for VND200,000. Also stocks a small selection of bikinis. CASUAL WEAR

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94 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 6291 1099 232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1. Tel: 3820 3948 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women in Ho Chi Minh City, Wacoal has more than 10 shops around town. However, there is a lack of product variety and the designs are quite classic. Compared to Triumph, prices are quite expensive with a bra ranging from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000 per pair. No swimsuits. Staff are friendly, helpful and enthusiastic.

SPORTSWEAR SPORTS STREET

A large amount of fine and affordable sportswear can be found around town, however, there are two main streets stocking sportswear in the centre; Huyen Tran Cong Chua, between Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Du in District 1; and Pham Hong Thai, between Cach Mang Thang Tam and Le Loi. You can find everything for sports on these streets, from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma at ultra affordable prices through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE

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163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1. Tel: 3920 9187 9am to 11pm With its wooden frontage, this shop feels and looks like an army disposal store, with a comprehensive range of products, including flashlights, binoculars, climbing clothing, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags and even underwear and cycling gear. If you’re after any products related to travelling, then this store is a must.

TAILORS HOANG DUNG

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171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 5267 9am to 7pm One of the most difficult things for foreigners living in Vietnam is finding the correct shoes size. Mandarina is a good place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes. They can even make shoes in 24 hours for around VND1 million. Simply choose the design and colour and they will take care of the rest. There is also a wide range of ready-to-wear shoes, from sandals and peep toes to slingbacks and boots. Stocks a small selection of bags, too. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000 depending on style and materials.

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39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 4556 9am to 11pm Run by two Vietnamese sisters, Tricia and Verona, this shop offers tailor-made clothing for both men and women with the latest and trendiest designs and styles. Stocks a wide range of fabrics, which is helpful for those that don’t know where to purchase it separately. Find something on the rack, get measured up then return a day or two later and pick up your custom-made garment. Alterations can be made upon request. An ao dai costs from VND1.6 million and a suit starts at VND4 million including fabric.

INTERIORS ART APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art. Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

CACTUS GALLERY

17/12 Nguyen Huy Tuong, P6, Binh Thanh. Tel: 0904959053 www.cactusartgallery.com Located near to the Fine Art University, Cactus Gallery was founded in 2011 by artist Phuong Quoc Tri with a desire to provide the art space to the world in general and Viet Nam in particular, both on a personal level and on a united one. Linking talented artists together for daily art events such as exhibitions, artist talks and art projects the gallery aims to erase the boundaries between Vietnamese and International artists as well as any art lovers, curators, collectors and art dealers. Cactus Gallery primarily focuses on discovering, supporting and developing young talent.

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270 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 2240 5990 8am to 8pm Located on the corner of Bui Vien and Cong Quynh, this store offers a wide range of tailor-made clothing with all designs and styles, from vests to ao dais, and skirts and trousers. Customers can either bring their own fabric or ask the tailor to choose for them. A normal pair of shirts can be made in two days. Prices are acceptable, with a vest costing around VND700,000 and VND300,000 for an ao dai — not including the price of the fabrics. Guarantees that all tailor-made clothing will fit.

MANDARINA

T&V TAILOR

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propaganda-printed tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamesethemed stereotypes available elsewhere in town. Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

244 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 3838 9136 9am to 10pm Offers one of the most interesting types of local art: rice painting. Standing out with its neon-lit front sign, Gallery is small and simple with artwork adorning its walls. Takes custom orders and delivers after four days for the smallest sized paintings. Prices for bespoke work starts at VND600,000 a piece and the space also offers an international shipping service for customers living abroad.

257 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

213C Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery.com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings. More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a fourfloor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1

Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists. Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

TMG

234 Bui Vien, Q1. Tel: 3838 9542 9am to 10.30pm This airy, simple and well-organised space offers a comprehensive range of products. An eye-catching selection of plastic Buddha images and statues start at VND2 million. Also stocks embroidered paintings from VND700,000, pottery, lacquerware, bamboo lamps and a selection of bags and scarves. Takes custom orders for embroidered painting.

CRAFT EM EM

Home décor orders are also available.

MEKONG CREATIONS

A&W FINE FURNITURE

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

NHU Y

GALLERY

and tastes.

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more. There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-made-clothes to fit individual sizes

2 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 9079 www.ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1. Tel: 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above. Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven clothing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 2210 3110 64 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: 3914 2119 S17 – Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 6271 7758 www.mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

FURNITURE & HOMEWARES AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2. Tel: 3519 0023 9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phubased shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Km 11 + 300 Highway Hanoi, Q9 Tel: 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs. Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

includes many covers in various colours and fabrics. Purchases of all standard and deluxe products include a one-year warranty. Prices start at VND6.7 million and a free delivery and assembly service is offered to city residents. Visit the website for a quick demonstration.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

The Crescent Parcel CR1-07/08, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6538 www.bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina. Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

ESTHETIC

BOCONCEPT

FEELING TROPIC

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 3824 6604 4th Floor, Unit 09, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7357 www.boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CALLIGARIS

4th Floor, Unit 10, The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 7355 www.calligaris.it The famous Italian interior-furnishing brand, founded by Antonio Calligaris in 1923, designs, produces and distributes chairs, tables, beds, sofas, storage units and furnishing accessories. Producing 160,000 units per month with over 7,000 product variations for the kitchen, living room and bedroom, products are distributed to over 12,000 retail outlets in 90 countries worldwide.

CHI LAI

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7371 www.estheticfurnishing.com.vn 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large two-storey outlet specialises in interior and external designs. Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods. Also offers antique reproductions as well as made-to-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked. 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bambooimitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality. Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery. Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: 3823 2213 207 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 3827 3696 www.chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

GAYA

CLIC CLAC SOFA

HAFELE SHOWROOM

327F Luong Dinh Cua, Q2 Tel: 5402 7434 www.clicclacsofa.com This is a great place to pick up compact sofa beds for homes lacking large amounts of space. A wide range of stock

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive postWorld War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linen-embroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products. 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3997 7300 www.hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products

including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 7614 www.livinggiving.com 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com nhaxinhcentre@aacorporation.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3930 4190 www.remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

3B Tong Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 6657 0788 www.thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

THE LOST ART

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 0955 000560 www.lostartsaigon.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more. Also offers an exclusive interior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

UNITY

12 Dang Tran Con, Q1 Tel: 3823 9375 info@unitycompany.com Located opposite Galaxy cinema, Unity offers accessories that are designed to seamlessly blend in with your life. Familiar basics are given a contemporary update with the use of modern, alternative materials like silicone, rubber, and brushed aluminum. From orbital lamps and eggshell-white china, to wire-clasped water bottles, each individual piece complements the others in the collection— to give your home a sense of Unity.

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

152 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3925 3648 www.verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custom-made items.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel: 090 3873 599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailormade environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers. Contact Pascaline for more information.

KITCHEN & BATHROOM CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

LIGHTING CAO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3915 1778 www.caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

EGLO

51/2A Thanh Thai, Q10, Tel: 3866 9173 www.eglo.vn 8am to 8pm Features imported decorative lights from Austria including wall, track and outdoor lighting made of metal, glass and plastic resin. Stocks a full and varied range of lighting systems for the kitchen, bathroom, children’s room, garden and swimming pool. Also offers customised lighting system orders. Prices range from VND159,000 to VND27million. Visit the website for information and images of the products.

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style LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 2210 3460 www.kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials. Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

98 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: 3823 4634 www.mosaiquedecoration.com 9am to 9pm This eye-popping lime green-painted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamese-themed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

VEKTOR LED

117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.VektorLED.com Vektor LED provide LED base replacement lights and T8 tubes that are easy to install in current sockets. Using green

SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3825 7750 9am to10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

SAIGON TAX TRADING CENTRE

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

VINCOM CENTER

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

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style materials (no mercury or other toxins), these lights provide an energy saving of 50% against normal Fluorescent lights, with 10-15 times the lifespan of normal lights.

keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

ELECTRONICS

CARTRIDGE WORLD

CAMERAS CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

28 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: 3821 8773 8.30am to 6.30pm Lying opposite Sun Wah Tower, this is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

Tel: 0903 035 271 www.silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON

85 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: 3821 6503 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 6294 5448 www.goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions. A world leader in real time monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

COMPUTERS & ACCESSORIES COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks,

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: 3514 0999 www.cartridgeworld.com.vn 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices. With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of wellknown brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 7300 6666 www.elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide. Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 3925 8999 www.hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million. In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras. Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customer-service.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3836 0699 www.longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple. Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: 6290 8777 www.vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems. Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and printers. Visit the website for more information.

NGUYEN THI THANH TAM

42 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1. Tel: 3822 2247 Upon arrival, this large store looks more like a stationary shop than a mere CD shop. Products include blank CDs and

DVDs at VND25,000 for 10 Kachi CD-Rs and VND38,000 for 10 Maxell CD-RWs. The DVD selection is endless with the prices starting from VND5,000 for one DVD, depending on type and brand. Also stocks numerous music CDs and DVDs of international and Vietnamese singers.

THANH NHAN

428BIS Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3818 1188 www.tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3863 3333 www.vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players. Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

GROCERIES

THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3838 9164 www.thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon. Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories. Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

MOBILE PHONES GIA KIEN

352 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 3868 3733 www.giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer. Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE PHONE STREETS

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH CONG MOBILE

382B – B1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: 3526 5838 www.thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam. Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

182A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 1900 561 292 www.thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and

BAKERIES CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru, P. Nguyen Thai Binh, Q1 Tel: 6295 9087 www.cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

54 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 3825 7199 www.crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic– based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: 3547 0577 harvestbaking@yahoo.com www.harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000. Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

LA DORÉE

216 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 65 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 1718 Reminiscent of a Parisian bakery, La Dorée serves up a variety of colourful and traditional French breads baked with green, beige and brown buckwheat seeds, including baguettes, fougasse, and dieppois and montagnard sandwiches. Desserts include passion cheese, tiramisu and chocolate mouse.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: 3829 2970 Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrancakes@hotmail.com www.simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students. Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

TOUS LES JOURS

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 www.voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

CATERING AU PARC CATERING

Available all year round for birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

workplace. Caters for private parties, receptions, office celebrations, and conferences. Choose from an extensive Vietnamese menu (crispy spring rolls, chicken fried rice, sautéed prawns and cashew nuts) or mix and match with Western cuisine (canapés, dips, cocktail sandwiches, fresh tropical fruit). Efficient delivery, all equipment and waiter service provided.

REX HOTEL CATERING

141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3829 2185 With the same team that feeds the guests at the Rex Hotel, prospective clients can be sure that the party they plan will be in good hands.

SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

41 Vo Truong Toan, D.2, HCMC Tel: 3898 9286 info@saigoncateringco.com www.saigoncateringco.com With over 10 years experience, SCC is the event manager for the annual NZ Wine & Food Festival, official caterer for ZanZBar, and provides catering services to a number of consulates and multinationals. Experienced with every conceivable style, from the smallest dinner party to a standup cocktail event for thousands, SCC takes care of everything from the venue, flowers and decorations to transportation, set-up, guest management, event flow, marketing and promotions, invitations and menu planning.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget. Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully presented food at reasonable prices.

YES! ICE–CREAM HOME DELIVERY SERVICE

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western– fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

Tel: 3844 6099 A delivery service offering banana–on a stick, Öla premium ice–cream & frozen yoghurt and I’sa ice–cream. All produced with European technology and imported ingredients.

Tel: 08 6274 0647 www.lareuniondesmarmites.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more. Visit website for full menu.

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 3744 2630 Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

LE REUNION DES MARMITES

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3829 5368 / 0908 406 505 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

QUAN BUI

Tel: 01286 252 351 / 3602 2241 (Mr Danh) High quality Vietnamese food at reasonable prices for the home or

GROCERIES ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi Street, Q1, Tel: 6291 8126 www.aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from

Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: 3740 7105/06/07/08 / 0903 814761 Fax: 3740 7109 www.classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five–star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KITCHEN – QUALITY FROZEN READY MEALS

Tel: 0974 444 001 www.kitchen.net.vn Kitchen provides an alternative to takeaways with home-cooked frozen ready meals in biodegradable packaging. Beef, pork, chicken and vegetarian meals cost between VND140,000-VND220,000 for 2-3 portions. Order online at www.kitchen. net.vn. Free delivery.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: 3821 6057 Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally– sourced poultry and fish products are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

LE COCHON D’OR

32 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: 3829 3856 An international standard butchers with a solid selection of fresh meats, charcuterie products, a tasty selection of pates, sausages, cheeses and poultry. Sells both retail and wholesale.

OPERATION: TEA

Tel: 01693 583563 www.operationteavietnam.com Offering a line high quality, whole leaf teas from around the world and tea ware. Tea tasting events are conducted by an experienced tea infusionist, who is available for private tastings as well.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers. Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

THE OASIS

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 (inside Snap Cafe) Tel: 3744 6432 3SK-23-1 Grandview 2, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 5412 2449 The Oasis grocery store and gourmet shop was established in Hanoi three years ago and offers imported and local delicatessen such as cold cuts and cheeses from around the world, organic vegetables and many other homemade, artisanal readyto-eat food. Specialties include homemade

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generation v lasagnas, soups, raviolis, pasta and sausages.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

LIQUOR & WINE ANNAM GOURMET SHOP

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 9332 www.annam–finefood.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 www.bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at

ELECTRONICS SUPERMARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information. CHO LON ELECTRONICS MARKET 590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm GIA THANH 975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm IDEAS SHOPPING CENTRE 133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm NGUYEN KIM 63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm THIEN HOA 277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa.vn 8am to 10pm

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affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung,Q1 Tel: 5404 3575 www.daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

GENERATION V LISTINGS BABY EQUIPMEANT 136 CHILDREN'S BOOKS 136 CLASSES & SPORTS 136 CLOTHING 137

BABY EQUIPMENT

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

LE TONNEAU

15D Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: 3824 6597 Overlooking the wine store on the first floor is the VIP room upstairs which caters to club members and those who take their wine seriously. Special wine–tasting every Friday. Call Patrick for more details (0903102418).

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world. Sells both retail and wholesale.

TAPAS WINE CO LTD

2/3A Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 2201 0909 www.tapaswines.com An importer of Spanish wines, Tapas delivers directly to your door. A growing list of products includes wines from the northern and central regions of Spain such as Elciego and Rioja Alavesa. Their website features their full portfolio complete with reviews.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINE CELLAR – CASA HABANA

BABY

66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10, Tel: 2210 2775 Discounted car seats, buggies and more.

CHILDREN’S SQUARE

270 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3932 2841 Pampers and Huggies nappies, baby bottles, bibs, buggies and other necessities.

ME OI

1B Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 3925 5404 Near Phu San maternity hospital with reasonably priced clothing, bottles, nappy bags and toys.

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3, Tel: 3932 1611 Closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

CHILDREN’S BOOKS FAHASA

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 3822 5796 Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odd ends.

PHUONG NAM

1st Flr, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

CLASSES & SPORTS ALPHA GALLERY

10 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 3822 4946 Swiss artist Bernadette Gruber runs six– week printmaking classes for children and adults, starting from the very beginning and working through to final prints made from copper plates. Other printing methods are also addressed.

visit wordhcmc.com for a comprehensive list of our listings EDUCATION 137 ENTERTAIMENT 139 KIDS' PARTIES 139 MEDICAL 139 techniques. For more advanced artists, she shows you how to release your creativity. Daytime and evening courses available for children and adults.

LIFETIME SPORTS

Tel: 0909 269511 mb@michaelbelmes.com www.michaelbelmes.com Group swimming, tennis and golf lessons run by Michael Belmes, the former Head Coach of the Vietnam National Polo Team and the Phillipines Elite Development Group of Swimmers. Prices start from around VND120,000. A Saigon Masters Swim Club is also being formed. Visit the website for more info.

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: 3823 7691 Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels for VND150,000 a session.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy Street, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn Steffen Christophe teaches introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard, and voice. With a diploma in guitar and singing from 10 years spent at the Geneva Conservatory, lessons at his home come from 25 years experience playing – one hour private tuition cost VND500,000 for students aged four to 14, and VND550,000 for those over (scb_ music77@hotmail.com).

VINIFERA

15C7 Thi Sach, Q1 Tel: 3822 1141 viniferavn@gmail.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines. Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

Mr Anh Vu Phi, another conservatory graduate now teaching at the International School, offers private tutoring in guitar and piano in Vietnamese and English for VND200,000 per 45–minute session. He has 30 years experience teaching youngsters, and after a stint in Spanish city Seville now offers classes in flamenco, call him at 091 387 7884.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

VINO WINE SHOP

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

SAIGON MOVEMENT

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 (gallery and workshop), 88 Ho Tung Mau (FLOW – permanent exhibition) Tel: 0903 955780 hk.painter@gmail.com helenekling@yahoo.com www.helenekling.com French painter teaches beginners how to work with different mediums and

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 3744 6825 keith@divevietnam.com www.divevietnam.com Scuba Diving Adventures in a Swimming Pool for 8 + 9 year olds. 15 week PADI programme conducted by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam.

RMIT VIETNAM

702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: 3776 1300 www.rmit.edu.vn The venue for a large number of sporting activities for children of all ages. Sports include baseball, softball, football (soccer) and more.

SAIGON PONY CLUB

42 Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0903 930907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn the correct riding technique from the three part–time teachers. Half–hour lessons with the engaging Amaury cost VND200,000.

STAGEMAGIC

Tel: 0903 145087 www.stagemagic.biz The city’s first stage school, offering youngsters between seven and 19 the opportunity to develop their acting and singing skills. The ultimate aim is to put on public performances at the end of each term. Cost for a 10–week term begins at VND2.1 million.

TAE KWON DO

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. One class a week costs VND160,000 per week; two classes a week are VND800,000 and three classes a month are VND1 million. There’s an additional fee for non–members. Contact Mr. Phuc on 0903 918149.

226 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Focuses on good–quality clothing for up to the one–year–old mark, with prices starting from just VND120,000. Also has a decent range of shoes and other accessories.

BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel:5413 7574 www.belliblossom.com.vn Belli Blossom is a shop catering to moms and babies stocking imported brands of maternity and nursing wear and accessories, infant clothes, baby bottles and feeding products, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more. Available brands include Mam, Mamaway, Quinny, Maclaren, Debon, Luvable Friends and Gingersnaps.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3823 3853 The emphasis here is on attractive and unique designs for the very young, encompassing clothing, pyjamas and bedding. A great place to browse for some memorable items.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

Tel: 0862 819790 info@SaigonSportsAcademy.com www.SaigonSportsAcademy.com Saigon Sports Academy offer coaching for children aged 4–16 years and private lessons for children and adults. They currently offer soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming. They have a team of International coaches offering training for beginners all the way up to professional levels. Please check the website for details. Also offers a youth soccer league that runs on Sundays 2pm–6pm in District 7. Call 0932 153502.

CLOTHING 123 BABY CLOTHING

THANH THUY WATERCOLOUR WORKSHOPS WITH LINDSAY ERDMAN

Tel: 0932 102378 www.lindsayerdman.net Canadian watercolour artist, Lindsay Erdman hosts Saturday afternoon workshops for painters of all levels. Work with still life, live models and flora while learning or refining a variety of watercolour techniques. Workshops held on a beautiful terrace in district 10. Week-long workshops are also available.

93 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3822 4893 There are clothes for all ages in here, mostly made of cotton and reasonably– priced, with friendly English–speaking staff on hand to help.

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

227 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 www.smallisb.com With the belief that each child is a prince or princess, the store offers an exclusive selection of brand names in clothing, accessories and creative toys. Creative toy brand names such as Playmobil, Vilac

EDUCATION ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: 84 8 5431 1833 abcintschoolss@vnn.vn www.theabcis.com Founded in 1995, this international school of 800+ students drawn from 32 national backgrounds is served by 80+ UK expatriate teachers and 70+ support staff. It is the only international school in the city whose curriculum is wholly based on UK standards for all pupils from age two yrs (Playgroup) to 18yrs (Pre–University matriculation). Students graduate with IGCSE’s & A levels awarded by Cambridge University examinations board.

ACG INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

East-West Highway, An Phu, D2, Tel: 3747 1234 www.acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG offers comprehensive education from kindergarten to senior school and a range of extracurricular activities. The new campus provides exceptional learning and sports facilities. Offers international curricula (IB PYP and Cambridge International Examinations).

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Xi Early Childhood Centre 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3519 2727; Early Childhood & Primary School, Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus 1, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien,Q2. Tel: 3744 6960; Middle & Senior School, EastWest Highway, An Phu, Q2. Tel: 3742 4040 www.aisvietnam.com

628A An Binh, Q2 Tel: 3898 9788 pcc@parklandvn.com Provides a range of leisure activities including sports and movie nights for children of all ages. Participation requires membership of this well–known country club. Email for more details.

DANCENTER

GUITAR AND PIANO CLASSES

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

41 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: 3822 2284 www.vine–group.com The wine store represents hundreds of award – winning wines from every part of the globe and stocks an exclusive collection of spirits. Also, Casa Habana – Cigar Shop provides 100% authentic Cuban cigars, and luxury cigar accessories.

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 3519 4490/4340 The Crescent Mall, Phu My Hung www.dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and more classes of all levels at this modern dance studio.

generation v and Trousselier are on display and clothes by international designers such as Sonia Rykiel, Petit Bateau, Baby Dior and Kiwi are also available. As an added touch, the shop has been designed especially for children so that they feel at home.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 0122 5636 682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Offers a full range of piano lessons, from basic to advanced ones such as Bach, Mozart and Chopin. Suitable for kids of all ages. Tel: 01227 163844 rubbaduckiesswim@hotmail.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years at Somerset, Q1; AIS, Q2: APSC, Q2; Sherwood Residence, Q3 & classes now available in Q7. Run by Elizabeth Hollins. Tel: 0987 027722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Offering a variety of classes for movement development for ages two to 11 in An Phu and Phu My Hung. Saigon Movement aims to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports– based activities. Contact Abbie Klein for more info.

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generation v

A co-educational day school with dedicated early childhood, primary, middle and senior school campuses. An IB World School, students follow the PYP and MYP curriculum. Senior students follow the IGCSE – Cambridge A Levels. AIS is the only school in Vietnam authorised to deliver the University of New South Wales Foundation Studies GRADE 12 Curriculum (UNSW). Focus on academic excellence, international student body, and exceptional facilities in quiet residential settings, qualified expatriate staff, range of co-curricular sport, creative, academic and musical activities and languages. Scholarships available.

company that offers a range of courses for teachers, students and managers, corporate and teacher training, nanny and teacher placements and career counseling.

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2. Tel: 3744 2335 www.bisvietnam.com Three campuses offer a British–style education to moret than 1,500 children aged from two to 18. A centre for the UK Cambridge International Examinations boards, it is also an IB World School, delivering the IB Diploma Programme.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

13C Nguyen Van Linh, Binh Chanh Tel: 5412 3456 www.cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam offers co-educational classes from Kindergarten to grade 12 for local and foreign students. Talented, certified teachers implement the awarded Ontario curriculum to create a studentcentered learning environment. Focuses on academic achievement, character education and global thinking with a commitment to the arts and languages (Vietnamese and French). Students graduate with the Ontario Secondary School Diploma (OSSD), recognised by universities worldwide.

COMPASS EDUCATION

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: 3820 3302 / 3820 3202 information@compass.edu.vn www.compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education is a English language education

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GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

257 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Tel: 7300 7257 A bilingual school with native German and English teachers. A language programme is followed in both German and English, alongside the German curriculum. Extra curricular activities are available for all primary school students.

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 3827 7008/3827 7008 info@gymboreeclasses.com.vn www.gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children aged 0 - 5 for over 30 years. Today there are over 550 locations in over 30 countries, making them a leader in early childhood development programs. Recognized for their approach to parent involvement, their programmes encourage participation in, and understanding of, each child’s development.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY

28 Vo Truong Toan, An Phu Tel: 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com ISHCMC, located in District 2, has been successfully graduating students with an IB Diploma to high-profile overseas colleges and universities since 1999. ISHCMC is the only fully authorized IB World School in HCMC, providing an International Baccalaureate curriculum (PYP, MYP & IBDP) to all students, ages 2 to 18. It is fully accredited by the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of School and Colleges (NEASC).

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: 2222 7799 www.issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American standardbased curriculum taught by certified North American teachers. ISSP started the academic year of 2010-2011 with more than 100 students enrolled from 20 different nationalities. A brand new single purpose-built campus and state-of-art

facility caters for nursery through to grade 5 (sixth grade added in 2011). All passport holders, including Vietnamese are welcome. Unique features include Mandarin language classes, golf, home languages and an active extra-curricular programme.

and state–of–the–art facilities. Students from more than twenty–five nationalities from age two to 18. RISS is an IB World School, a member of CIS and IPC, and an approved centre for IGCSE.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTER

Ground Floor, Crescent Residence 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 www.kindermusik.edu.vn Kindermusik is the world’s premier Music, Movement & English language program for children from birth to 7 years. Each unit’s weekly lessons promote early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more. The learning fun continues with Kindermusik@Home materials, including music from class, musical activities and story time. Kindermusik programs align with standards and/or requirements for the USA, UK, EU, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary Years Program; and have been adopted by the National Teachers College of Ho Chi Minh City. Enrolments include a family activity book or digital magazine, along with high-quality CDs or digital music downloads, containing a variety of musical styles and genres. There are over 6,000 Kindermusik Educators in 67 countries.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: 3744 2639 www.montessori.edu.vn School following the Montessori methodology for children from two to six years old, offering natural learning environments to complement the child’s natural sense of engagement with their surroundings. Also offers extra–curricular activities for children from three to 12.

PERFOMING ARTS ACADEMY OF HCMC

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: 0938 371 760 www.sic.edu.vn An Australian-Vietnamese government project, SIC caters for Years 10, 11 & 12 and is under the Curriculum Council of Western Australia. All subjects taught in English by foreign teachers. Inspectors from Australia control teaching standards. Students graduate with the internationally recognised Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), which gives direct entry to all Australian universities. Fees up to VND142,702,000 per year. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

104A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, Tel: 3932 5579 www.saigonkidscentre.com Has evolved over 10 years to create a creative learning environment through play for children between the ages of two and six. There are 12 teachers, and the school limits numbers to 85 to ensure personal attention for all the children.

Tel: 0862819679, info@paa.com.vn www.paa.com.vn Enrolling aspiring learners 6 and up for instruction in piano, guitar, drums, singing, flute, clarinet, and saxophone by real musicians and experienced teachers. ABRSM Qualified. Group dance and drama sessions also available. Plus new vacancies in our popular Tiny Tots music enrichment & dance program for ages 3–5.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

74 Nguyen Thi Thap Street, Q7, Tel: 3773 3171 admission@rissaigon.edu.vn www.rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides British/International education with native English teachers

Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: 5413 0901 www.ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high school, emphasising state–of–the–art facilities, a multi–cultural student environment, and a commitment to a well–rounded education at all levels.

International Primary Program, as well as an integrated Montessori programme for nursery and kindergarten. Experienced teachers and small class sizes cater to individual needs and abilities. The school focuses on providing a stimulating learning environment, and a value priced education. A brand new 8,000 sq. meter eco-friendly campus, the largest of any primary school in Ho Chi Minh City, includes a pool, running stream and more.

SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 3519 4236, www.smartkidsinfo.com An international childcare centre provides kindergarten and pre–school education for children between 18 months and six years old. A fun and friendly environment, the school focuses on learning through play.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

177A Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3519 2223 Fax: 3519 2224 www.theamericanschool.edu.vn info@tasvietnam.edu.vn A fully-licensed American school programme designed by administrators and educators experienced in the development and operation of American and international schools. An independent and private college preparatory school with an individualized programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through Grade 12.

THE LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 5421 1052 Little Genius Kindergarten has joined Sisterhood with school in USA and uses same curriculum. It is the Kindergarten with the best facilities and environment compare to any similar size school in Vietnam

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: 3933 3655 www.vas.edu.vn VAS is one of the leading schools for teaching and learning development in Vietnam, providing from programmes from Kindergarten to Secondary school education. In line with their mission to educate an elite young generation with confidence to integrate into the world’s education, VAS also aims to develop its human resources by creating a professional and friendly working environment with attractive benefits for teachers.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS)

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Ben Nghe Ward, Q1 Tel: 3910 0168 / 3910 3266 contact@vlstudies.com R4-28 (Hung Phuoc 2) Le Van Them, Q7 Tel: 3602 6694 info@vlstudies.com, www.vlstudies.com This professional school has built a good reputation over 18 years. VLS offers set and tailor-made courses for all abilities in high quality facilities with time flexibility. Lessons can be taken either at school or at the learner’s office and home.

ENTERTAINMENT DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3825 7750 Diamond Plaza features a top–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options, with KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA

35Bis Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 3827 7614 Over at Parkson Plaza there is a large selection of arcade games to choose from along with a bowling alley, with a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2, Tel: 3402 2542 www.xrockclimbing.com. X–Rock Climbing is the city’s first venture of this kind. The facilities for children are excellent (children under 12 must be accompanied by a parent or guardian) at this 26–metre–tall wall, where you (or they) can climb up or abseil down. A day pass costs VND200,000

KIDS’ PARTIES A2

196 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3912 0161 Popular toy shop which also houses a large selection of partywear and costumes.

DOTS & CON

Tel: 0909 052502, dotsandcon@gmail.com Specialising in producing environmentally friendly handmade flaglines for any occasion including kids’ parties, picnics or school decorations.

THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: 3812 6901 thecaterers@yahoo.com.vn www.thecaterersvietnam.com.vn If you don’t know how to cook jelly, never mind, because The Caterers do. Although mainly focused on grown–up events, they will cater for kids’ parties as well.

MEDICAL FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 7848 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Three paediatricians make up the

childcare speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: 5411 3333 www.fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped paediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists. Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: 3829 8520 www.internationalsos.com Operating in Vietnam since 1989, this clinic is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. An internationally experienced general medical and pediatric team will meet the preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs of your child. Emergency cases managed 24 hours a day. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q.3 Tel: 3822 6222 www.starlightdental.net Up–to–date well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care, alignment and reconstructive procedures for children of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: 3910 4545 info@victoriavn.com www.victoriavn.com Victoria Healthcare is especially committed to paediatrics, and its services for children include general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi Ward, Q2 Tel: 3742 3222, www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn enroll@saigonstarschool.edu.vn The school offers a British primary curriculum, supported by the Cambridge

November 2012 Word | 135

Hanoi THE FREE MAN / MOBBED

THE MANY FACES OF HANOI

The Free Man Words by Kaitlin Rees. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

ou are 21 years old. You are somewhere between completely self-conscious and falsely over confident, you say ridiculous things to be liked or to avoid injuring your pride. For most people, settling into an honest skin takes several years of searching and negotiating. But for Quang Van, it would seem that in his 21 short years, he’s already found a skin that he’s quite comfortable in. Van’s style is one that could be classified as ‘badass’, if one were to have that word in one’s vocabulary. He’s got tattoos on his arms and a bullring in his ear. His motorbike is the two-wheeled equivalent of a poised black panther and he rocks high top boots in summer. Yet if we were to stop here we’d do a great disservice to this young entrepreneur. By day Van sells decorative wooden cats with fishing poles and painted clay flowerpots from his recently opened home décor shop. In the quiet alley of Ba Trieu, Van stands outside his store clustered alongside those of several of his friends, gently strumming a ukulele and trying not to scare away customers. White Eagle is the tiny closet of a shop that Van opened about three months ago to sell just about anything that falls into the category of small and cute. “Something little you can buy to make your home yours, more the way you like it,” he explains. What’s on the shelves ranges from pincushions and picture frames to soap dishes and old-fashioned alarm clocks. His customers are mostly women, which is not surprising to Van, given his self-described penchant for “girly things”. “People have many parts to themselves,” he says. “Mine are just really different from each other: the girly part and the [badass] rider part. That’s what makes me strange. Or special.”

Generation V So how does a young man come to so comfortably possess such contrasts of

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identity? Perhaps chalk it up to the 9x generation. Van is of the group of young people who were born with more choice and entitlement in their bones than anyone else has known in Vietnam. He is of the generation who instinctively felt the blurring boundaries of difference before the rest even started to wrap their heads around Lady Gaga. Yet developing multitudes is perhaps not unique to any generation, rather the product of ample wandering room and trusting parents. After high school, Van moved from his hometown in Nam Dinh to Hanoi to study architecture. This lasted just a few months before he took up a stint in graphic design school, which he dropped

“People have many parts to themselves,” he says. “Mine are just really different from each other: the girly part and the [badass] rider part. That’s what makes me strange. Or special” to pursue photography and freelance work before finally opening his shop. Through all of that, the 21-year-old describes his relationship with his parents as close. Even though he and his dad don’t talk that much, “I know he’s really proud of me because I do it myself, I do it alone… I’m the kind of person who needs a lot of freedom and space.” And so with the trust of his parents and plenty of freedom and space, Van is doing something remarkable with his time: enjoying it. “When I wake up in the morning, I feel

good,” he says. “I have breakfast and then enjoy a coffee with a cigarette. It’s easy for me to enjoy the moment and enjoy my life. I don’t plan too far into the future.”

High on Hope If it sounds like just one of them lazy kids up to a whole lot of nothing, well, it’s not. Though he’s got a perspective balanced by the moment, Van is a man on the move in his work, with some smart dreams for what’s next. “One thing I hope is to some day not just import products,” he says. “I think we have a lot of good craftsman here in Vietnam. We also have a lot of good designers, and a lot of people with good taste. But they are not really well connected. So I want to be that person who connects them.” So to return to the cute and small things, as one always should, White Eagle appears to be laying the groundwork for what some day will become Van’s own brand of home décor. For him, decoration is where it’s at. But a little explanation is in order for how this young urban Vietnamese wild guy got fixated on decor that would be more consistent in the country western home of one’s country western grandmother. “The stuff I sell now is not really that old, it just pretends to be,” he explains. “But when I look at what’s in my store, I feel a balance between digital stuff and things nearer to nature.” It’s possible to look inside Van’s store and conclude that borrowed nostalgia for simpler times is just another fad, like third wave hippie culture only without the struggle. But there is also the conclusive purity in Van’s candor that has nothing to do with fads. And maybe the grandmother goods supply store in central Hanoi reflects a struggle of its own kind, of its own generation, one that is trying to notice what is increasingly unnoticed. White Eagle (Duoi Trang) is located at 5B Ngo Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem and is open from 9am until 8pm.

November 2012 Word | 137

TRENDSPOTTER

MOBBED

In the search for new ways to express themselves, Hanoi’s younger generation have latched onto flashmobs. It’s a craze that is reaping unforeseen rewards. Words by Hoa Le. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

o the bumping beats of the remix version of a song by Trinh Cong Son, Cao Tuan Hung is modelling some moves in front of twenty youthful dancers. He slows down the steps and explains: “Lift your knees and twist them to the side, clap your hands.” He pauses, watches the dancers follow his instructions and then continues. “Thrust your pelvis, shimmy to the right, and strike a pose.” It’s a Sunday afternoon in the IndiraGandhi Park and they’ve already been practicing for an hour. Despite running a sweat, Hung’s voice remains clear, and his swift movements are precise and fluid. Hung has choreographed the song Noi

138 | Word November 2012

Vong Tay Lon (Great Circle of Vietnam) for his group and is now instructing the newcomers. “It’s simple and uses a lot of hand movements so that our members can follow the dance easily,” he says. “But in the end, it’s still a dance, so there are some hip hop or twirling moves that I’ve put into it.” The 22-year-old law school student is the lead dancer of Flash Mob Hanoi, a Facebook community group that has rapidly grown in the last two years. Now they have approximately 800 members.

Riders on the Storm Despite its existence in the west for almost a decade, the concept of flashmobs

only hit Vietnam in 2010 when a group of high school students in Hanoi gathered and danced on their graduation day. Since then it has rapidly become one of the most popular pastimes among teenagers and young adults. Although the concept of a flashmob is supposed to be a spontaneous group activity done in public, in Vietnam it’s become like dancing practice. Type into Google the words ‘flashmob’ and ‘Viet’ and you’ll get 992,000 hits. Such is its popularity that just the words alone have as many hits as the names of this country’s top celebrities. “If you want to organise an event that attracts young people, it has to have either celebrities or flashmobs on the roster,” says

19-year-old Pham Tu Tai, a flashmob leader, also presently studying at the Foreign Trade University. Hanoi Flash Mob was among the first clubs to be established in Hanoi, and is often said to be the most influential. It has the largest number of members online and has helped spread ‘mob’ fever across the capital. Its first members were a handful of youngsters who shared the same dancing passion and met via a Facebook group. “We’re not professional dancers, but one day we saw a group doing a flashmob dance on YouTube,” says Nguyen Duy Thai, one of the group’s original members. “It was an advertisement for a mobile phone product, but the dance was so great that we started tracking it down. That was how our group was born, but we have built our own philosophy. We don’t dance for advertisements. We wanted to be spontaneous as per its original meaning.” So far of the twenty tracks that the club has choreographed and danced to, only a few are for pure entertainment and to attract more members. The rest come with a message — to promote a charity, to protect the environment, raise traffic law awareness or even for blood donor campaigns. A more recently established group is Flashmob MMU. In another park in the east side of the city, 30 members of the group are demonstrating synchronised dance steps with the comical horse riding moves made famous in Korean singer PSY’s video of Gangnam Style. Comprised of students from the military

medical school, all who will be future doctors, each member of the troupe has different strengths including popping, locking, or intricate stunts. They gather to share their moves with friends and to release stress from studying or doing the long late shift at the hospital. “More and more people want to join our group, both girls and boys, and we welcome everyone,” says Gia Anh, one of the group leaders. “Our dances are fun and follow the most recent trend. So we get a lot of interest and are able to attract more members.”

Mob Version Viet In a country where public performance and group gatherings cannot be done freely, flashmobs have found their own way to survive. “The idea of flashmobs is to surprise people. But many people are not used to this idea,” says Nguyen Duy Thai. He recounts one story where Flashmob Hanoi tried to dance by Hoan Kiem Lake. Security guards around the lake mistook their cassette player for a bomb. The attempt failed. He adds: “There have been numerous cases when we have been dancing spontaneously and the MC has suddenly turned off the music because he thought we were not on schedule. At other times the MC has mistakenly introduced our dance as if it was a standard, group performance that happens all the time.” He laughs. “Many people still think flashmobs are just another type of dance.”

Tieu My, a female leader of Flashmob MMU shares the same views as Thai. When a flashmob is carried out impromptu, it’s a “fantastic moment”. Last month, her group surprised patients at the Burns Ward with a chicken dance. “The little kids were so excited to see us dance out of the blue that many of them started mimicking our chicken moves,” she smiles. “It was like they had forgotten all about their pain.” But some dancers are not following the original rules of flashmobs as strictly as Thai or Tieu My. In Pham Tu Tai’s opinion, flashmobs are fun and can help Vietnamese youngsters break the fear and anxiety of performing in public. “For many people, it is their first time dancing in public,” he says. “They also make friends with many people that otherwise they would never meet.” According to him, this is the real success of flashmobs, no matter how far they depart from their original meaning. In August Tai was one of the leaders of a group of 5,000 dancers who danced as part of a blood donation campaign. Their flashmob was criticised for not being impromptu. But it achieved its goals. They attracted the attention of thousands of people and the number of blood units donated far exceeded the original target. No matter what your stance, the Vietnam version of the flashmob has so far been positive. It helps connect people, and it demonstrates that young people can gather together, share a passion and have fun. All in a good cause.

November 2012 Word | 139

Tiêng viêt theo chân người hát rong / thực khách bí ẩn

Theo Chân Nguoi Hát Rong Quang Đại là người đàn ông làm việc chăm chỉ nhất trong làng giải trí. Trong suốt một buổi tối, Ed Weinberg đã theo chân, xem anh biểu diễn ở sáu sân khấu quanh thành phố. Hình ảnh bởi Charles Barnes

uang Đại biểu diễn bốn hoặc năm nơi một đêm, đôi khi sáu. Lảnh quảnh đi đường đêm từ điểm này sang điểm khác, anh ta sẽ chỉ hát khoảng một hay hai bài vào nơi biểu diễn sau cùng. Anh ngồi, trông vẻ thư giãn và chờ đợi đến lượt mình. Áo sơ mi của anh với hai nút áo lỏng lẻo, xộc xệch, nhưng khuôn mặt lại háo hức. Anh sẽ lên sân khấu và nói một vài từ, đôi khi về các bài hát tiếp theo, đôi khi về một đêm tốt đẹp. Tùy thuộc vào đám đông, anh sẽ chơi một bài hát của Phạm Duy, một số bản nhạc Pháp, có lẽ là bài I Am the Walrus - có thể là 15 bài hát trong tổng số 300 bài. Anh thường nói "merci beaucoup!" sau mỗi bản nhạc Pháp. Một vài bài hát được thể hiện theo yêu cầu của hợp đồng của câu lạc bộ nơi anh biểu diễn thường xuyên, có thể anh cũng thể hiện một vài bài đã được anh hát đi hát lại nhiều trong suốt thập kỷ qua tại các nhà hàng. Sau đó, lại trên chiếc xe gắn máy của mình, anh phóng xe nhanh trong trời đêm ở những nơi đông người, cố gắng đến đúng giờ. Nó như thế này, buổi đêm biểu diễn bốn tiếng đồng hồ phải thú vị. Theo chân Đại vào một buổi tối thứ năm, tôi bắt đầu nhìn thấy nó như jazz, như thể toàn bộ đêm dài là một buổi biểu diễn đa phong cách.

7 giờ tối

Chúng tôi bắt đầu từ Ngọc Sương Marina (172 Nguyễn Đình Chiểu, Q3), một nhà hàng hải sản ngoài trời với hầu hết các bàn gần sân khấu đều đầy người. Một nghệ sỹ

140 | Word November 2012

lớn tuổi, biểu diễn phong cách nhạc country đang trên sân khấu. Khi Somewhere Over The Rainbow được biểu diễn, Đại nói với tôi về điều anh mới nhận được sau trong chương trình. Điều này làm tăng tổng số màn biểu diễn trong đêm lên sáu. Anh không thấy phiền lịch khi diễn như thế, anh vừa kết thúc một vài bản nhạc Pháp u sầu theo giọng nam trầm, cùng một nhóm nhạc năm người đứng sau. Một chàng trai khán giả gật gù mơ hồ, dường như dừng lại khi anh nhận ra mình đang làm gì. Hầu hết mọi người khác đang trò chuyện. Một cô gái đi qua lại gần khu vực sân khấu, và lắc lư nhảy theo khi có hứng. Một anh chàng vỗ tay sau khi bạn tôi kết thúc hát và tôi thì la ó. Bản nhạc tiếp theo có cùng nhịp điệu, một bản nhạc nhẹ tiếng Anh với điệp khúc “you mean everything to me.” Tiếng kèn xắc-xô kéo dài khi giọng Đại cao vút “TO MEEEE!” Chúng tôi rời khi ca sỹ tiếp theo đang chuẩn bị phần biểu diễn của mình, văng vẳng bản nhạc How Deep Is Your Love sau lưng.

7.55 giờ tối

Gần 8 giờ, chúng tôi có dư thời gian để đến một nhà hàng Ngọc Sương khác (11 Nguyễn Văn Trỗi, Phú Nhuận). Nơi này nhiều cảnh vật hơn nơi trước, với những nhân viên phục vụ trượt patin qua những cánh cửa mở hai chiều, khi họ đang lắc lư theo điệu bài Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini. Nơi này cần rất nhiều sự êm dịu thư thái từ Đại, khi tiếng đàn ghita bật lên âm

thanh đầu tiên, bản tình ca Pháp cất vang lên trong không khí. Ánh đèn rọi thẳng vào khu vực trung tâm sân khấu, tiếng vỗ tay rầm rộ. Chiếc áo từ thập niên 70 của Đại bắt đầu được chú ý nhiều hơn.

8.45 giờ tối

Quán café Cooku Nest (13 Tú Xương, Q3) trang trí với ván ép chạy thẳng lên tới gác mái hình chữ Y với bàn ghế đâu mặt về góc sân khấu yên tĩnh, và khoảng 20 đôi tình nhân và những bạn trẻ đang dựa trên ghế. Các bức tường chỉ cách nhau khoảng 2,5 mét nhưng Đại vẫn tìm được chỗ trống, cách anh đeo đàn trên vai trái thật kinh điển. Thỉnh thoảng vỗ nhẹ lên đàn theo nhịp, anh thể hiện nhiều kỹ năng hơn. Tiếng vỗ tay rầm rộ mỗi khi kết thúc bài, bài thứ ba được thể hiện xong và chúng tôi lại chuẩn bị lên đường, một cô ca sỹ đáng yêu trong bộ váy màu đỏ sẽ thế chỗ của Đại.

9.20 giờ tối

Chúng tôi đang trên đường tới MZ Club (56A Bùi Thị Xuân, Q1) khi thời gian còn không nhiều. Tôi hơi lo khi Đại lái xe nhanh vượt qua các ngã tư, cố gắng đến đúng giờ. Khi chúng tôi đến MZ, vẫn còn sớm lắm. Bạn tôi, đang mặc quần đùi, được đưa cho một cái quần dài ngay cổng vào. Hai nghệ sỹ dương cầm và vĩ cầm đang biểu diễn cho khách ở hai bàn ăn tối nằm ở tầng trên. Thứ duy nhất trên tường bên cạnh miếng khảm hình khối có ánh sáng ẩn dưới và chiếc màn rũ là hình tượng Johnnie Walker được làm từ những vụn kiếng. “Nơi này”, bạn tôi nói, “trái ngược hoàn

toàn nơi trước.”Đại không sử dụng ghita ở đây. Đầu tiên anh bước từng bước, và vai anh lắc lư theo nhạc, tay trái anh vồ bắt lấy không khí. Anh nhận được yêu cầu từ một trong những người mặc áo sơmi trắng ngồi ngay quầy bar, và anh biểu diễn nó. Chúng tôi nhảy nhanh lên xe như những tên cướp ngân hàng.

9.57 giờ đêm

Đại nhận một cú điện thoại khi đang chạy với vận tốc 50km/ giờ, trông có vẻ khó chịu. “Chúng ta trễ mất!”, anh cho hay. Chúng tôi chạy xuyên qua hành lang của quán bar Napoly (7 Phạm Ngọc Thạch, Q3), thẳng lên cầu thang với ánh sáng mờ ảo. Chúng tôi vào tới nơi khi bài Let It Be kết thúc. Ngồi chờ đợi một chút là đến lượt của Đại, anh giới thiệu lướt qua về bài hát anh sắp thể hiện nằm trong album của mình, bài Hey Oh! Cạnh tranh với MZ, nơi này cũng phục vụ rượu, trái cây dĩa và có lối trang trí lấp lánh. Những nghệ sỹ đứng sau mặc áo khoác trắng. Nhạc cụ ở đây chơi nhạc hay hơn một chút, nhịp điệu chắc hơn. Một lần nữa, hình ảnh duy nhất trên tường là Johnnie Walker.

10.25 giờ đêm

Chúng tôi đến điểm cuối cùng của đêm, khách sạn Equatorial (242 Trần Bình Trọng, Q5). Suốt đêm, đây là lần đầu tiên khi chúng tôi đến không có tiếng nhạc cho tới khi một nhóm nhạc phá tan bầu không khí tĩnh mịch của khoảng 20 người ở hai bàn bằng bản Unbreak My Heart. Đại bước vào khi bài hát kết thúc, cổ áo sơ mi của anh bẻ ra che đi cổ áo khoác. Anh biểu diễn bản tiếng Pháp bài Save the Last Dance for Me, rồi sau đó Nothing’s Gonna Change My Love for You. Một lần nữa anh hát hết mình để giữ chân khán giả lại, vì một vài người ngồi cạnh chúng tôi bắt đầu đứng dạy ra về. Nhưng Đạt vừa cất lên tiếng đàn. Với bài Hello của Lionel Richie, anh chầm chậm hát từng câu. Tay trái của anh không còn múa trong không khí mà giờ đây anh vươn lên cao, bắt lấy không khí rồi kéo xuống với màn trình diễn cuối cùng của đêm nay.

THUC KHÁCH BÍ ÂN

Có một nhà hàng ẩm thực Ý nằm trên đường Lê Lợi và nơi này đích thực là một nhà hàng đến từ đất nước Ý xa xôi. Hình ảnh bởi Kyle Phanroy

Casa Italia 86 LÊ LỢI, Q1. ĐT: 3824 4286

hắc tới nước Ý, tôi luôn nhớ đến Silvio Berlusconi, bóng đá, một số thợ sửa ống nước đội mũ đỏ và tất nhiên, cả về ẩm thực! Lúc ở Venice, khoảng 12 tuổi, tôi còn quá nhỏ để nhớ rõ là mình đã ăn bao nhiêu hoặc những gì, nhưng tôi còn nhớ mùi thơm của kem và cà chua nấu, ký ức mơ hồ đầu tiên là về toàn bộ đùi lợn xông khói và rồi nhìn thấy kem hạt dẻ cười trước khi gần như bị lạc ở quảng trường St Mark. Tuy nhiên, tinh thần yêu mến nước Ý của tôi vẫn luôn nồng cháy, về nền ẩm thực và sự mến khách tuyệt vời của họ. Nhằm tìm kiếm lại những kỷ niệm xưa, chúng tôi hướng đến Lê Lợi để ghé thăm Casa Italia. Ở Anh, món mỳ spaghetti bolognese hoặc "spag 'bol" thực chất là một món ăn dân tộc và khác xa món gốc, do đó chúng tôi tránh xa món đó và những món ăn khác nhau từ thực đơn phần nào hạn chế (chúng tôi được cho biết là một thực đơn hoàn hảo đang được làm). Món khai vị được đưa đến với một phần khá bánh mì focaccia để ăn kèm. Rồi có cả nước sốt cà chua trôn kem, một cốc cà rốt và rau quả xay nhuyễn mà một người bạn tôi gán cho cái tên là "Hương vị Lễ Tạ Ơn". Việc kết hợp nhiều loại thịt thật ngon là cách hoàn hảo để bắt đầu bữa ăn, mặc dù atisô có vị như đồ đóng hộp và phần lớn chúng bị bỏ dở không ai đụng đến.

Một ít Thịt Heo

Không đi theo sự lựa chọn của bạn bè là pizza và bánh bao Ý, tôi quyết định chọn thịt - một phi lê thịt heo với nấm hỗn hợp, đậu trồng vườn trộn xô thơm, húng tây và nấu với kem cùng rất nhiều nguyên liệu Ý đặc biệt khác - nó có vẻ tuyệt. Nó không ngon. Tôi chờ đợi món sẽ

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có nấm porcini và nấm chanterelle mắc tiền, thậm chí chỉ một chút nấm có vị thịt portobello, hay bất cứ cái gì khác lạ nhưng trong thực tế, những gì tôi thực sự nhận được là những lát nấm rơm xắt mỏng. Được trồng trên những ổ rơm và được hái trong khi vẫn còn nhỏ, chúng trông giống như những quả trứng nhỏ từ ngoài hành tinh, và không giống như vai diễn của Sigourney Weaver, chúng tìm được bán hầu hết ở các chợ Châu Á. Cơ bản là vì chúng rẻ, và có thể bạn sẽ tìm thấy chúng trong bát canh chua tiếp theo. Nhìn vô món bánh bao Ý của bạn mình mà lòng đầy ganh tỵ, nhưng tôi vẫn giữ thái độ tích cực và thiên vị một chút cho món thịt heo. Khá cứng và được bọc trong bột bánh, và khi bỏ vào trong kem nó trở nên dính dính và cuối cùng kết thúc trong miệng. Ngay cả đậu vốn dĩ màu xanh sáng, giờ cững đã xuống màu như tinh thần của tôi. Có thể nói rằng, tôi không vui. Trong khi bạn đi cùng tôi lại rất hài lòng với sự lựa chọn của họ, và sau khi ăn ké một số miếng, tôi lấy lại tinh thần như màu xanh của đậu tươi. Bánh pizza tan chảy trên lưỡi, bánh bao đầy miệng tôi với một ít mì ống tươi tự làm, rau bina và phô mai ricotta, hai thành phần làm nhân có thể kết hợp tốt với mì ống được tẩm gia vị mà không cần những thành phần khác nhưng không đánh mất đi hương vị ngon tuyệt của món.

Kết Thúc Có Hậu

Một ly nhỏ nước chanh lemoncello được đặt ở phía trước mỗi chúng tôi - đó là một kết hợp mạo hiểm giữa 30% rượu và vỏ chanh, được làm phần lớn ở miền nam nước Ý. Đó chắc chắn là một thứ tráng miệng riêng. Mặc dù nó giúp làm mất đi

các dư vị, nhưng nó là một điểm nhấn đẹp, và ngoài dịch vụ phục vụ chu đáo, nó là một cái gật đầu đồng ý cho sự hiếu khách nổi tiếng của Ý. Kết thúc bữa ăn là món tráng miệng panna cotta, một món kem Ý. Nhìn trên thực đơn, món panna cotta quế trông có vẻ đầy hứa nhưng tôi gọi vị chanh, nó làm lưỡi tôi trung hòa, nhưng theo một cách tốt. Nó cũng giúp tôi xóa tan nỗi thất vọng về món thịt heo. Nhà hàng là một nơi nhỏ thân thiện với lối trang trí hơi rắc rối trên lầu,có lẽ do kết hợp nhiều phong cách. Vì vậy, nên đặt bàn ở tầng dưới. Và mặc dù vị trí quán có thể là lý do GIÁ cho việc giá cả khá cao, MÓN KHAI VỊ nhưng giá vẫn thấp hơn ANTIPASTO ở các nhà hàng khác. Dù RUSTICA món thịt heo của tôi là ALL'ITALIANA 300, 000 ĐỒNG một thất bại, nhưng bạn bè tôi lại hài lòng với THỊT HEO sự lựa chọn của họ. Hy SCALOPPINE 310, 000 ĐỒNG vọng sự thay đổi quản lý gần đây có thể thay đổi KEM số phận của nhà hàng PANNA COTTA 130, 000 ĐỒNG này, giá cả và việc chú ý đến từng chi tiết, tôi vẫn RƯỢU VANG ĐỎ 90, 000 ĐỒNG chưa sẵn sàng để thật sự đánh giá nó. MỖI THANG ĐIỂM CHO THỨC ĂN, TRANG TRÍ VÀ PHỤC VU DỰA THEO THANG ĐIỂM TỪ 0 ĐẾN 15 13 – 15 = đặc biệt đến hoàn hảo 10 – 12.5 = rất tốt đến tuyệt 8 – 9.5 = tốt đến rất tốt 5 – 7.5 = khá tới tốt 0 – 4.5 = kém tới khá BÀI VIẾT NÀY CÓ MỤC ĐÍCH ĐÓNG GÓP XÂY DỰNG TÍCH CỰC

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The Final Say DEAD HEAT / ON THE STOOL

THE APPLE OF MY EYE For those seeking status and the allimportant ‘face’ in Vietnam, acquiring the latest iPhone 5 is sometimes worth their life. Words by Derek Milroy. Photo by Nam Quan

e’ve all seen it, that little message at the bottom of an email or text message: “sent from my iPhone.” Apparently this is the new status symbol in Vietnam and according to Dong Ngo of www.cnet. com, since the first generation of the device, the iPhone has been a much sought-after gadget. In the beginning, the phone wasn't officially available in the country (local providers, including Viettel and VinaPhone, started carrying the iPhone 3GS just early 2010) and most were smuggled in from the States and had to be unlocked before they could be used, courtesy of Apple's tight controls and exclusive deal with AT&T. And because of its somewhat unattainable and limited availability, it has become part of a list of luxury accessory must-haves along with the Hermes Birkin bag, Jimmy Choo shoes and Prada sunglasses.

Bragging Rights Brand conscious fashionista Thuy really enjoys the fact she is one of the few in Vietnam who currently owns the new iPhone 5: she was willing to pay six months’ salary for it, forgoing paying her bills and rent. For the Vietnamese, forget bragging about how much of a bargain you’re saving on a luxury item, lauding that you’ve paid more than the other person is a sign of achievement and success. When the iPhone5 was first launched in late September it cost a whopping VND25 million with some city outlets even claiming they had pre-orders at VND35 million. In nearby Hong Kong the phone is going for around VND14 million and in Singapore it’s estimated at VND21 million. Property developer Jasmine Le, 25, admits the first day it was out she rushed to buy it in Singapore.

144 | Word November 2012

“It has everything and I cannot leave home without it. It is hard to explain why I had to have it, but I knew if I didn’t I would feel so jealous and sick of anyone who had one before me. It is maybe an obsession. I would feel naked without it.” Ironically, iPhones brought from overseas or sneaked into Vietnam are harder to use, with some apps not compatible with the networks here. If a user accidentally upgrades the phone's operating system (some people upgrade the phone's firmware without knowing what they are doing), it will be locked again and become useless until a new unlock method is available. Whereas some like Le can afford to splash the cash without losing much sleep, others don’t have that luxury but still manage to get their hands on the latest model by hook or by crook.

Dial F for Fraud 25-year-old Thi works for a Saigon-based network marketing company and when his team leader got the latest iPhone a few weeks ago, he had to do the same. But why is this so important to him? “It cost me a month’s wages but I am so happy to have the iPhone 5. I think in my business environment it enhances my profile and makes me feel more important,” he explains. “If a potential customer sees the phone, their eyes light up and I think it helps me gain more business. It is maybe psychological, but I think it helps me reach my goals.” Phuong, 30, is a mother of one, jobless and lives alone on the outskirts of the city, but has a foreign boyfriend to take care of her. He sends her installments of VND42 milliion a month to ensure she and her son are looked after, but last month she spent most of that allowance on, you guess it, the iPhone 5. However, after a quick call overseas a

little extra cash was forthcoming when Phuong’s mother was “sick and had to go to hospital”. She admitted: “He would have probably sent me money anyway if I said I had none left, but if I say my mother is ill how can he say no? I don’t feel too bad because my mother is very strong and will live a long time. My boyfriend is very rich, so it is only a little money to him but a lot to me. I’ll just have to remember to hide my phone next time he comes to visit. “He will probably buy me an iPhone 5 when he comes next month. I can always sell it to a friend and buy some clothes for my son. I need to have the latest iPhone for face. Face is very important to Vietnamese, we can never look poor in front of our friends.”

Time for Payback Then there is Hung, 20, who admitted she borrowed VND30 million from a money lender who offered her a ‘deal’ of 15 percent per month. She was so desperate she accepted it for the latest iPhone model. But after the first few days of happiness, reality sunk in. Hung only earns VND5 million a month working in a local store and she is far from her home in Danang. She also fears if she doesn’t pay back the money she may be harmed. “I don’t know what I’m going to do. My first payment is due but how can I afford to pay VND4.5 million? A neighbour would have offered me a better rate, but as my friends were all getting the iPhone I had to get one or I wouldn’t be able to face them,” she laments. “My boyfriend asked me where I got the money and thought I was cheating on him. When I told him the truth he was so angry at me. But he doesn’t have the money to help me. He wants to ask his family, but I am so embarrassed, and if he does they will hate me. I feel like running away but I love living in Saigon and don’t want to go back home as I will feel like a failure.” Barring a miracle, she is stuck in a vicious circle all for that must-have item and ‘face’, but her circle may be expanding based on predictions that smart phone penetration is rising fast, especially in large cities such as Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hai Phong and now Danang. As many as 21 percent of mobile phone users in Vietnam will use smart phones by the end of this year, according to Qualcomm, the US's leading phone chip maker. In addition, Ericsson ConsumerLab, a subsidiary of Swedish telecom giant Ericsson, reports that the download rate of mobile applications from Vietnam's smart phone users could also see a boost of 35 to 40 percent in the next six months. With the inevitable launch of newer models, the obsession looks like it will stick around for some time to come.

CRIME FICTION SERIAL

DEAD HEAT Part 5: The Mind of a Killer Gerard Gerard couldn’t remember his father who had died just after his second birthday. He had been killed, Gerard had been told, while sitting in his Vietnamese girlfriend’s car. They were parked next to a highway east of Johannesburg when a cement truck had careered into them. The driver said that his brakes failed and that he didn’t see their car, which was parked behind some bushes at the bottom of a hill until it was too late to swerve. Gerard also remembered walking into the bathroom a long time later and seeing the blood from his mother’s wrists which had spilled all over the floor. Mama was sitting on the toilet leaning sideways against the wash basin, staring with her sightless eyes at a big knife on the carpet. She had neatly rolled up the sleeves of her blouse as far as the elbows so the material wouldn’t get soiled. She didn’t seem to care about her skirt. After Mama’s funeral a policewoman had quietly told Gerard that he had to go and stay with his Aunt Clara because he didn’t have any other relatives. He’d never heard of Aunt Clara and he told the policewoman that he didn’t want to go, but she wouldn’t listen. Aunt Clara was waiting at the front door of her big, dilapidated old house in Johannesburg’s southern suburbs when he arrived with the policewoman. She was wearing thick brown stockings, loose at the knees and a brown dress, soiled and stained around the seat. Her grey hair was

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Russell Kemp, an ex-captain in the South African Police Service and now a private detective, has teamed up with an exdetective from the HCMC Police Force named Duong. They are investigating the murder of two Vietnamese women. So far they have managed to establish two things about the killer: he is a westerner and his first name is Gerard…

scraped away from her face and tightly knotted in the nape of her neck. He often wondered how she managed to keep her hair so hard and smooth like that. But then Aunt Clara was always one for neatness and order. Neatness and order. And discipline, of course, Aunt Clara’s three favourite words. When the policewoman gently shoved him forward Aunt Clara had raised the corners of her mouth as she took his tiny hands. Behind her was a long shadowy corridor with lots of recesses where dark things could hide. “Thank you, officer,” she said and closed the door on her. “How old are you?” she asked, when the two of them were alone. “I’m four and a half.” “Just the right age to learn, then,” she said. Aunt Clara’s eyes were shining for once when she took her new guest up to his bedroom. As they went up the stairs he could smell the powder on her, dry and sickly and stifling, but there was something else, something sour and overpowering; something unpleasant: cats. “This is your home now,” she said smiling. “I’ve been keeping it for you.” His room was large and high ceilinged with a bay window looking down onto the overgrown back garden. It smelt of cats and was full of old, dark furniture, which woodborers were slowly turning to sawdust. On one of the walls, dampness had turned the wallpaper to mush. A large black cat was lying on the counterpane staring at them. “Oh, there you are, Tommy Boy,” aunty trilled, bundling up the cat in her arms. “Yooove come to welcome our wikkle friend, haven’t yooou?”

Tommy Boy purred and rolled onto his back, pushing into her. Aunt Clara liked cats. She called them Her Children. At first there were seven, then she took in three more and they had the run of the house. She’d smile at them when they gathered in the kitchen mewing for food, climbing onto the table pushing and shoving each other to be first. The day after he arrived at Aunt Clara’s house he did his first bad thing — he pushed Tommy Boy from the breakfast table where he was standing with a paw on the toast, drinking milk from the milk jug — and Aunt Clara lashed out at him with her hard hands, left and right like a bantamweight, biff boff, making his cheeks sting. “Don’t ever do that again,” she warned, staring down at him with her cold, dark eyes. “Tommy Boy is precious. This is his house. His house, do you hear? Not yours!” Tommy Boy was on the floor, hissing and spitting at him, black eyes unblinking. It was six months later that Aunt Clara showed him the picture of the woman who she said had killed Mama and Dadda. It was a holiday snap taken on a beach somewhere. There were four people standing at the water’s edge, behind them in the surf two kids were playing with a Frisbee. Mama was blonde and slim and pretty in a flowered dress. She was in the middle of the photograph with Dadda on her left. He had his one arm around her waist, the other draped casually around the shoulders of a woman with oval eyes and long black hair. The Other Woman, who was Vietnamese Aunt Clara said, was slim and pretty too. Aunt Clara stabbed a finger at the Other

Woman. “She’s the one who killed your Mama and Dadda,” she said. “She’s the evil one.”

Saigon Pearl, Ho Chi Minh City Kemp, Tran and Nguyen Ba Hoa had met at a Saigon Pearl coffee shop to plot a way forward. Since the death of her sister, Ba Hoa seemed to have retreated into herself, consumed by grief, except when she roused herself enough to get angry at Kemp for his failure to find the killer. At the start of the meeting Tran had dropped his bombshell: he had made enquiries. The two dead girls weren’t the killer’s only prey, he suspected. There had been other victims too; four at least, maybe more. “What are you going to do to find this monster, Mr Kemp?” Ba Hoa demanded. “The best I can,” he answered quietly. Then before she had time to respond: “The man we’re looking for probably came to Vietnam with your sister. I’m getting the passenger list for your sister’s flight sent over.”

“But you don’t know his surname!” “No, we don’t, but we do know his first name. It’s Gerard,” he said. “His first name’s Gerard.” Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City Gerard lived on the top floor of a sixstorey apartment block near to the Saigon Railway Station in District 3. He was in the foyer waiting for the lift to arrive when a young woman walked into the building. She had just moved in, he knew, and lived one floor below him. The two of them stood on either side of the lift doors watching the numbers change. Even in her high heels she barely reached up to his shoulder. “Hi,” she said. Suddenly his head was full of her delicate perfume. He smiled and nodded, managed to say, “Xin chào.” When she pushed a loose strand of hair behind her ear, he glimpsed shiny-red nails and long, delicate fingers. Aunt Clara used to say that girls who painted their nails were an affront to God’s law, but he

wasn’t sure if that were true. “My name’s Bich,” she said, holding out her hand. “Gerard,” he answered. “You learn me English, Gerar?” she said. “OK?” He managed with difficulty to smile again. He resented such effrontery, but it was no more than he expected. After all, women like her were the disease. He was the doctor. He was stopping the sickness from spreading. Find out what happens next in our January 2013 issue. This is a work of fiction. All names, characters and incidents are invented. Rob Marsh is the author of 30 published books (both fiction and non-fiction). He has a special interest in matters crime-related and is the author of Famous South African Crimes and With Criminal Intent: the changing face of crime in South Africa. He currently lives in Ho Chi Minh City.

November 2012 Word | 147

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148 | Word November 2012

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TO TO o o Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 - F3 Alexandre De Rhodes, Q1 - B5, C4 N N D DU UC Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Q3 - A4, A5, Au Trieu, Q1 - D6, E6 C Pa T TH B3, B4, C2, C3, D1, D2, E1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 - B1, C2, D3 HA st AN eu N G G Nguyen Du, Q1 A6, B5, B6, C5, D3, D5 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 - D3, E2, E3 r Le Le Tran Van Dan Trgan Van Dang Na Na Nguyen Hue, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 Bui Vien, Q1 - F3, F4 Ch Ch Qu Qu m m u u y y Ma Ma Nguyen Huu Canh, Q1 - A7, B7 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1, Q3 - C1, D2, D3 Ky Ky g g Do Do n n nh nh o o K K T T n n u u Bai r i dg go en /B/r i d g e / / Nguyen Sieu, Q1 - C6 Calmette, Q1 - E5, CF5 r r h h T TrS a i g on S a a C X X o o rin AC AC n n inh i i u u Ng Ng HM h T T T h u T h i em T h u BTh r i di egm e /B/r i d g e / / Nguyen Son Ha, Q3 - E1, E2, F1 Cao Thang, Q10 - E1 H M hia hia A AN Qu Qu G T Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 - E7, F7 Ku m h o Ku m h o A n Phu A / / n Q P 2 h u // Q2 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 - B6 NG T oc oc Ba Ba D i a m on dD i a m on d Ng Ng HA HA Hu Hu o o NG NG Thai Binh, Q1 - E5, F4 Pla za Pla za Nguyen Co Bac, Q1 - F4 T T y y ruo ruo Pla za Pla za en en TA TA Th Th g M Nguyen Thai M Hoc, Q1 -g uE4, en en ng ng Tha Tha Cong Huynh, Q1 - E1, E2, F2, F3 on ye F4, F5 onuye ao ao HA HA uy uy nh nh am am n n g g g g D D PhuD2 Phu IB IB N N Qu Qu Nguyen Thi Dieu, Q3 - C2, C3, inh inh De Tham, Q1 - E4, F4 an an cN cN Th Th A Ba A D u c Ba D u c L L gu Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 - A5, A6, gB4, TR TR Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Q3 - A4, B2, B3, ai ai e e uy ye UNra l UN C a t h ed ra C al t h ed Qu Qu en n B5, C3, C4, D2, D3, E1, E2, F1 C1, C2, D1 Va Va G G y y n n Do Do Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 - A5, A6 ung L Lu ngNguyen Thong, Q3 - B1, C1, C2 g g u u H H n n n n n ng a a o o o o g H Nguyen Thuong Hien, Q3 - D1, E2 Do Quang Dau, Q1 - F3 H u Ng Nu g X X D D u u y y u u ON V iOnN com V i n com en T en U T Nguyen Trai, Q1 - E2, E3, F2 Doan Van Bo, Q4 - F6 U G Tho Tho C enG KtHre C en t re Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 - A7, B6 Dong Du, Q1 - C6, D6 KH ng ng Th Th O OI Ba Ba I Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 - D5 Dong Khoi, Q1 - C5, C6, D6, D7 iS iS Hu Hu a ac ch Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 - A4 Hai Ba Trung Q1 - A3, A4, B5, C6, C7 ye ye h R eu n i fi ca R eu t i on n i fi ca t i on n n L L Pasteur, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, B3, B4, C4, Ham Nghi, Q1 - E5, E6, E7 eN eN Th Th Hu Hu go go an an ye ye la ce Pa la ce Pa Ca Ca C5, D5, D6, E6 Han Thuyen, Q1 - C5 n n h h t t Tra Tra Qu Qu Pham Hong Thai, Q1 - E4 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1 - D6, D7 n n an an Co Co DO DO Tan Bin Tan h / / Bin h / / Pham Ngoc Thach, Q1, Q3 - A3, A4, Ho Tung Mau, Q1 - D6, E6 ng ng NG NG N N Ch Ch g gu KH KH Cu Chi /Cu / Chi B4, B5 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 - C2, D2 ua ua uy CA / / CA y OI OI en en CH Cam b o dia Camb oCHdia Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 - E3, E4, E5, F2, F3 Hoang Dieu, Q4 - F6, F7 C C MA MA p irc le p irc le Cao Thang Cao Thang N N hie hie GT GT Tr Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 - E1, F1 Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1 - C4, D4 Th Th Tru Ng Ng u . . u u HA HA H H ng uK nD u K ng H. H. NG NG Ta o D a nTa o TruDo a n Truyoen D Phan Boi Chau, Q1 - D5 Huynh Thuc Khang, Q1 - D6, E5 e ho TA TA u n uyho NG NG M M Pa r k Pa r kng Phan Chau Trinh, Q1 - D5 Ky Con, Q1 - E4, E5, F5 Ng g Ng Tr Tr UY UY uc uc g E Di Di rong Pho Duc Chanh, Q1 - E5, F5, F6 Ky Dong, Q3 - A1, B1 hat haEtN ng ng T T ron nh nTh o NH o a a T n n L L HU To To u u UE Ng V. V. Ng T T Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 - A4, A5 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 - E5 u u E n y y u on u L L o L L g g T Ben h T Ben I I Le Duan, Q1 - A6, B5, B6, C4, C5 an an nh n HA Suong Nguyet HAAnh, Q1 - D2, D3, E2 ha han h T h a n h Kh KhBi t excoBi t exco G G T h a T T N N Thai Van Lung, Q1 B6, C6 Le Lai, Q1 - E3, E4, E5 e A A Tower Tower Le c c h L h TH TH Thu Thu Nin Ma r ket Nin Ma r ket A Sach, Q1 - C6, C7 Le Loi, Q1 - C6, D5, D6 BA BThi An An . . Huyn h Huyn h Ng Ng Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 - D4, D5 Le Ngo Cat, Q3 - C1, C2 Thi Rieng Le Thi Rieng Pham Hong TPhha e m Ho L ng T h Thu Thiem Tuunnel, E7 ai ai Le Quy Don, Q3 - B2, B3 To To n n HAM NGHI HAM NGHI Ba C7, Ba Th Th Ton Duc Thang, Q1 - A6, B6, B7, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 - B6, B7, C5, C6, D4, I I n n a at RA RA Co Co t L L e e C C T T o o ng Kieu ng Kieu D7, E7 D5, E4 Tu Tu EN EN ng ng ru ru UY UY Ton That Dam,N Q1 - D6, E6 N Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 - E4, E5 m m EL EL gT gT h G G N N Ca Ca inh TUNN TUNN gu gu Ga GaBin Con Con B n n ye - D6 ye Ton That Thiep, Q1 Le Thi Rieng, Q1 - E3 HIEM HU THIEM o o e e g g T y y U L L n n H u u n n T T Th Th u u Ng Ng Th Th AI 2 3 /9E LAI 2 3 /9 Ho Ho an an Ton That Tung, Q1 - E2 Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 - E2 ien ien LE L L hi hi i g g i T T T T a a Pa r k Pa r k hu Tran Cao Van, Q1 - A5, B4hua Luu Van Lang, Q1 - D5 Hu Hu Le Le Th at Th u u t Kh Kh Tran Hung Dao, Q1 - E4, E5, F3, F4 Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 - A1, B1, C1 o o a a L L anh anh n n Y Y Ph u My Phu H u ngM y/ / H u ng / / ye ye Ngu Ngu Tran Quoc Thao, Q3 - A1, A2, B2, B3, C3 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 - B6, C5, C6, D4, D5 WA WA gu gu ham ham N N P P N h a Be N // h a C B a ne G / /i oC/an / Gio // Tran Quoc Toan, Q3 - A2, B2 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 - A4, A5, B5, B6 C C onnhg ong nh a a Ph u My Ph Br u i d M g e y / B / r i Q d 7 g e // Q7 h h Q Q Truong DInh, Q1, Q3 - B1, B2, C2, C3, Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 - C6, D6 C C uyn uyn h h iet iet t t n n a a H H V V e e D3, D4, E4 Me Linh Circle, Q1 D7 u u Ba Ba Vi Vi LY L Tr Tr am am Bui Bui HA-I A3, A4Y THAI Truong Quyen, TQ3 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Q3 - A2, A3, Ph Ph ng ng TO TO o o Cho LonC h//o L on // C C Tu Xuong, Q3 - A3, B2, C1 B3, B4, C4, C5, D5, E5, E6 n n Q5 & Q6 Q5 & Q6 ye ye u u Vo Thi Sau, Q3 - A2, A3, B1, B2, C1 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 - D6, D7 T T E E Ng Ng KI KI Vo Van Kiet ( East West Highway) - E6, Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3 - B2, B3, C2 AN AN V V n n h h e e i i n n F5, F6 Ngo Van Nam,ViQ1nh- VB7 Tri Tri Vinh V VO VO DO DO Cu Cu U U AN AN NG NG c c Ng. Ng. DIE DIE Vo Van Tan, Q3 - B4, C3, C4, D2, E1, E2 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 - D4, D5, E4 O O a a U U B B V VA V V ANG ANG A O O o o Vuon Chuoi, Q3 - D1 H H Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 - A6, A7 G G N N C C N N BO BO HU HU Yershin, Q1 - E4, F5 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1 - E5, E5, F4, F5

{crossword}

Photo of the Month

Answers on page 4

BASIC ECONOMICS 1

by Dhruv Ashra Photography 6

48 51 54

150 | Word November 2012

ACROSS 1. See 24 Across 6. Green buildup in an aquarium 11. Tattered cloth 14. Urge forward 15. Young male horses 16. Letter between kay and em 17. Like a period of economic prosperity followed by a depression Hyph 19. 151, in Roman numerals 20. Twelfth graders: Abbr. 21. Per capita ____ (statistic used to measure the wealth of a nation's population) 22. Exterminator's target 23. Chemical ending with propor hex24. With 1-Across, policy of the government interventing as little as possible in the direction of economic affairs 26 Schoolroom glue

36 41

23 27

29. Singer Winehouse 31. Flavorful 32. "E pluribus ____ " 33. Do something with 34. Beginning class in drawing: 2 wds. 35. Stat. that's a measure of a country's economy 36. Capacity of a commodity or a service to satisfy a human want 38. Acorn-dropping tree 41. Old sitcom title character Gomer 43. ____ la la (singing syllables) 44. Opposed to 45. "Home Improvement" star Tim 47. "This ____ stickup!": 2 words 48. Map within a map 49. John ____ Keynes (economist who theorized from 11-Down are best achieved by a policy of full employment)

51. Disseneter's vote 52. “ ____ in Boots” (classic fairy tale) 53. Did a wiggly Hawaiian dance 56. Head covering 59. Mentalist Geller 60. Lowest legal amount an employee can be paid: 2 wds. 62. Boy 63. French for "year" 64. Consumer price ____ (indicator of cost of living and inflation) 65. Suffix with Vietnam of Japan 66. ____ and services (dual components of economic output) 67. Contort DOWN 1. Little lies 2. Roman god of love 3. Events in which companies first allow the general population

to buy their stock: Abbr. 4. Grammy-winning "Losing My Religion" band 5. One of Seinfeld's friends 6. "Back in Black" rock band 7. Timberwolf 8. In a sullen manner 9. On the ocean: 2 wds. 10. Suffix of superlatives 11. Periods during which there are declines in economic trade and prosperity 12. Totally ready: 2 wds. 13. Pretentiously showy 18. Direction opposite SSW 22. Pre-college exam taken by high-school jrs. 23. 24hr. cash dispenser 25. Macy Gray's first hit: 2 wds. 26. Dog with a wrinkly face 27. ____ Arbor. Michigan 28. Like the theory that economic growth can be achieved by stimulating investment via tax reductions: Hyph. 29. "Just ____ suspected!": 2 wds. 30. Becomes liquid 33. Sport ____ (off-road vehicle) 34. ____ loss for words: 2 wds. 36. Forearm bone 37. Roth ____ (tax-sheltered savings plan) 39. Had some food 40. Model-building set 42. Cravings 44. "Don't get ____ ideas" 45. Medicinal vial 46. Actress Linney and first lady Bush 47. "Beats me!" 48. Words beginning a confession: 2 wds. 50. Massive land mammal, for short 51. Opposite of old, in German 54. Didn't tell the truth 55. University city in central Iowa 56. " ____ but known!": 2 wds. 57. Gets older 58. Send a typed message to by cell phone 60. Periodical, for short 61. Dir, from N.Y.C. to Seattle

Dragon Slayer

Do y phot ou own o woul graph t a hat d loo k here ? Em good to c ail it word hristine@ hcmc .com

{trivia buff} Answers on page 2

1) What fragrance was first made for Russian Count Orloff in 1768? 2) In 1992 whose chat show was axed to make way for the BBC soap Eldorado? 3) What female singer had a hit with This Ole House way back in October 1954? 4) In what four countries are The Alps located (PFE)?

8) What band had a 1985 number one hit with the single I Wanna Know What Love Is? 9) Who had his only UK number one in 1960 with Three Steps To Heaven? 10) Who was Steven Redgrave's rowing partner when he won his first 2 gold medals at Los Angeles & Seoul?

14) Who had hits with I'm Walking Backwards For Christmas & The Ying Tong Song? 15) What English king signed The Magna Carta? 16) What British county has the longest coastline? 17) What actor plays the character Jack in the TV series Lost?

5) How many Crusades were there?

11) Raphael Ravenscroft plays what musical instrument?

6) In 1760, what means of personal transport was invented?

12) Who is the most famous manservant created by PG.Wodehouse?

19) What is the largest species of beetle?

7) Who did Clive Woodward replace as England’s Rugby Union coach?

13) Kelly Marie had a short solo career in the early 80s that included what no.1 hit?

20) Mr Chips said goodbye from Brookfield school. What subject did he teach?

18) In what English cathedral is The Whispering Gallery?

November 2012 Word | 151

on THE

With a recent Latin Grammy nod, we speak to the omnipresent Curtis King about this important achievement in his music career

STOOL OOL THE PERSON What is your worst fear? I have a recurring nightmare of not being able to find all my music equipment before or after a show — strings, trumpet, guitars, batteries... I have so much musical equipment scattered around so many houses, storage facilities, countries and bars that it's a full time job just keeping track of all this stuff. I had a dream the other night where I saw all my guitars and trumpets floating down a river and couldn't do anything about it. I woke up in a sweat. What is your idea of happiness? A couple of days in an off-the-beaten-path city with no particular agenda. I had a blast exploring the areas around Hue a couple of months ago, checking out some remote villages and historical areas like the Tiger and Elephant Arena — off-the-charts cool and not really even mentioned in the guidebooks. Your favourite movie? The Party with Peter Sellers — Sellers was the grandmaster comedian. My brother and I watched it when we were kids and laughed so hard we peed in our pants! Comedy and humour have always been a key part of what I try to do on stage. If people are laughing, they are happy, even if only for a few moments. Who do you most admire & why? Eric Clapton would have to be on that list. He's obviously a master musician. But I admire him most for his personal strength to pull himself out of a tailspin of drugs, alcohol and recklessness. Not everyone has that inner strength.

THE BUSINESS You music collaboration with Indian-American singer Anand Bhatt recently earned a Grammy nod. Tell us how you met. Last year, I got a call from a friend at Word,

152 | Word November 2012

who put me in touch with Anand. We met up, had a few drinks, got along great and hung out a few nights checking out the music scene in Saigon. I was impressed by his positive attitude, lack of ego considering his success in the music business, and his willingness to reach out to new people in a new country. He liked my harp playing, and asked me to record some rough sketches from which he would build a song. How did you feel when you heard the news? Anand mentioned something in passing in an email, and it took a while for me to figure out exactly what had happened. Getting on the ballot for a Latin Grammy was just not something I had ever thought of (especially the Latin thing!), so before I shared the news with friends, I checked with Anand and he showed me the press release on the net. When it sank in, I opened a nice bottle of red and just had a ridiculous grin on my face for a couple days. We knew that our chances of winning were slim to none. The recognition, however, is something that as a musician I

am quite thrilled with. Your harmonica part was not actually recorded at the same time or even the same country as the song. Can you explain that? I thought of Anand's suggestion of recording some basic sketches and how to do this in a fun way. I decided to take my mobilerecording equipment up to Lak Lake in Dak Lak, rent a bungalow for a weekend and record all the new harmonica ideas I had been experimenting with. I focused on creating a new sound — something that, as far as I know, had never really been done before. I call it ‘Latin style harmonica’ using a special harmonica in a minor key that my harmonica buddy Fumi buys for me in Japan. After a full weekend and some interesting takes, I sent Anand all the work I had recorded, and he brilliantly pieced it all together. The song, Mi Corazon Insiste (feat. Curtis King), can be found on iTunes. Just search for Anand Bhatt.