Word Vietnam January 2014 by Word Vietnam

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực

Vietnam Edition january 2014

The Islands Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

contents wordvietnam.com

january 2014

052

080

088

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Walk ‘n Ride

EAT & DRINK

042 / The Province

088 / The Caffeine Contests

Pedestrianising Hanoi’s Old In-Between We tasted our way through Quarter We cover the resorts, fishing 11 of the best coffee blends Vietnam has on offer rods and ruins of Ninh Thuan in our special feature 011 / The Big Five Events to look out for this 096 / Vegetarian Hanoi month 052 / The Islands Finding a route past the For this month’s cover story, capital’s obsession with meat we cast ourselves away BRIEFINGS

014 / Burger Games

McDonald’s takes no prisoners

018 / Only in Asia

A roundup of the latest weirdness

020 / The Buffalo is Back

A local treasure gets restored

100 / Beer Club Evolution

ARTS 080 / Art & The City

Vietnamese nightlife has a new diversion

Artists who think globally, and locally, too

084 / The Future of Vietnamese Dance

104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

The KAfe: hot or not?

105 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: barbecued Arabesque is tiptoeing on the Muscovy duck frontier

106 / Street Snacker HCMC

The many faces of com tam

2 | Word January 2014

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contents

114

174

108 / Tusks & Dust

Aligned with a rough beauty

125 / Hanoi City Guide

126 / Overscene

TRAVEL 114 / Beautiful Bays and Haunted Hotels

The many fine qualities of southern Cambodia

118 / The Stopover

Three hours and VND800,000 in Japan’s Narita Airport

124 / Travel Listings

131 / Hanoi Promos HCMC 030 / Calendar 143 / HCMC City Guide

144 / Overscene

150 / Coffee Cup 156 / In the Frame COLUMNS 134 / Business Buff 148 / Book Buff

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118

136 / The Alchemist

HANOI 036 / Calendar

FASHION

138 / The Therapist 140 / A World of Good 142 / Student Eye 160 / Body and Temple 162 / Medical Buff 170 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 174 / Opportunity Knocks

What the country’s most famous footballer was doing out of country

176 / The Last Call

In a moment of melancholy, Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc laments on life

Contributors This month we asked Word staff: What five albums would you bring with you to a desert island, to listen to foreva eva?

Karen Hewell Online Editor Sia, We Are Born Agnes Obel, Aventine Phantogram, Eyelid Movies Matt and Kim, Grand Tegan and Sara, The Con

Mads Monsen Creative Director Röyksopp, Running to the Sea Ludovico Einaudi, In a Time Lapse Mahakala Prayer Om Tare Tuttare Ture Soha, Tara Mantra Ani Choying Drolma, Namo Ratna Traya

Francis Xavier Staff Reporter My Bloody Valentine, Loveless Darkside, Psychic Radiohead, The Bends Soft Powers, Bad Pop The Cure, Disintegration

The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL nick ross Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com

Ed Weinberg Deputy Editor ed@wordvietnam.com

MADs monsen Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

derek milroy Features Editor derek@wordvietnam.com

yves schiepek Photo Editor yves@wordvietnam.com

Elisabeth Rosen Staff Editor elisabeth@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS ROUX Staff Photographer (Hanoi) francis.roux@wordvietnam.com

kAREN HEWELL Online Content Manager karen@wordvietnam.com

Kyle Phanroy Staff Photographer kyle@wordvietnam.com

mark allan Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com

Francis Xavier Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

Nguyen Loc Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

Hoa Le Staff Editor hoale@wordvietnam.com

Tal Cohen Listings Editor tal@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION

Yves Schiepek Photo Editor Andy Bey, Experience and Judgment Lizz Wright, Salt Brian Blade Fellowship, Perceptual Sara Tavares, Mi Ma Bo Keith Jarrett, The Melody at Night, With You

Ed Weinberg Deputy Editor Bob Dylan, Nashville Skyline Bud Powell, Jazz Giant Sam Cooke, Live at the Harlem Square Club, 1963 WU LYF, Go Tell Fire to the Mountain Eleanor Friedberger, Last Summer

Elisabeth Rosen Staff Editor “I'd just bring my entire iPhone #21stcentury”

Nick Ross

Bao ross General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

trang le Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING bao ross General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

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DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com

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SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Thiep Nguyen, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Cristina Nualart, Kelly L. Le, Jennifer Graham, Singapore Tourist Board, Nguyen Cam Binh from DSM, Amanoi Resort, Minh Anh and everyone at Terraverde, Nguyen Long Hung, Curtis Norris, Nhi from The Ascott, Mike Gammel, YPDR, Alyssa Becht, Lam Hieu Thuan, The Loop, Oriberry, Katie Jacobs, Mark Zazula, Amanda Wotring, Mekong Tourism, David Harris, Family Medical Practice, Gert Nielsen, Margaret Smith, Yanneth Albornoz, Nguyen Qui Duc and Tae Jun Park

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Chief Editor (desert island themed songs) Pink Floyd, Wish You Were Here U2, Running to Stand Still Roy Ayers, Everybody Loves the Sunshine De La Soul, Me, Myself and I Massive Attack, Hymn of the Big Wheel

© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.

Chuyên Đề Du Lịch & Ẩm Thực ISBN: 978-604-59-0372-8

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Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn

Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

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In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71–73–75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 1148-2013/CXB/13-127/LĐ Quyết định XB số: 289/QĐCN-LĐ. Ngày 30/12/2013 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy 1 năm 2014.

Indulge yourself in the Fabulous Lunar New Year Spread as Shang Palace Restaurant offers a mix of modern creations in traditional festive dishes, ranging from the must-have delicacy “Yu Sheng” with “Wealthy” Salmon, Jelly Fish and Vegetables, the Prosperous Big Bowl Feast with premium abalone, oysters, sea cucumber, roast duck, to the traditional Lunar New Year Cured Meat and our Special Dual Fish Glutinous Rice Cake that bring you abundance of luck in the coming year. Don’t forget to enjoy the famous Lion Dance at 12:00 noon on the 1st day of the Lunar New Year and begin a “Wealthy” year ahead at Shang Palace Restaurant. Shang Palace Chinese Restaurant 1st Floor, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong St., Dist. 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (84 8) 3823 2221 - (84 8) 3822 6111 Ext: 164 - Fax: (84) 3822 6116 Email: reservation@shangpalace.com.vn - Website: www.shangpalace.com.vn

The prelude

hen Desert Island Discs first hit the British airwaves in 1942, it created a timeless format that tapped into the fantasies and exoticism many in the west associate with tropical, blue sky, blue sea, white sand beach islands. In a country where the weather is, well, pretty atrocious, castaways were asked to choose eight pieces of music, a book and a luxury item to take to an imaginary desert island where they would be marooned indefinitely. That the radio

programme has been aired continuously for over 70 years says much for our Robinson Crusoe-like fascination with islands. Not only has the BBC show managed to attract some well-known celebrities to its recording studios, but the programme has become an institution, a well-loved eternal radio show that continues to woo listeners. It is this same fascination with islands that we have tried to tap into with our cover story this month. Although the exotic desert island is a rarity these days, the concept of a piece of

land surrounded by a body of water, whether mountainous or flat, desert or jungle, built up with concrete or sparsely covered in huts continues to excite the human mind. However, we’ve focused on rocky reality rather than the concept of paradise — after all, few islands out there remain untouched by the hand of man. From Phu Quoc and its partner, undeveloped archipelago Nam Du, to the other side of Halong Bay, the islands around the island of Singapore, the islands in the swamps, urban island living and even

rebuilding an island, we’ve tried to cover every type of island out there, at least in this part of the world. But the centrepiece has to be our story of games programmer Curtis Norris, who went in search of his very own desert island. It was a journey that led him to an uninhabited tract of land in Halong Bay and six months isolated from the outside world. Not everyone can find their own desert island — at least not physically — but they can certainly create an image of it within their mind. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION JANUARY 2014

The Islands NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Ed Weinberg

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

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Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us AT EDITOR@wordvietnam.com — we’re at your fingertips.

Dalat to Thap Cham Railway I missed the original article on the Dalat Railway (September 2013, p. 176) but caught up through the comments section in December. The answer to CE’s question about whether you can cycle the former railway line is ‘yes and no’. Some sections are used by farmers for motorbike access to their land, others are completely overgrown. I wouldn’t recommend trying any of the route in the wet season. The road that goes from Dalat to Trai Mat Station (QL20) runs close to the route for long sections so there is always an alternative. The long tunnel (#3) is said to be blocked by a roof collapse, but the last time I tried to get into it from the Dalat end it was flooded and said to be full of snakes. Anyone who would like to share knowledge of the route should get in touch with me at alanmurrayvn@gmail. com — Alan Murray

54 Colours What a lovely article you wrote about Sebastien Laval’s show at the museum (December 2013, p. 94). He was so happy about that and me, too. I want to thank you for all the great work you are doing with your magazine. — SL

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Nightlife Phuc Tan and New Century I like your story on nightlife (December 2013, The Nightlife Issue), but your Hanoi timeline missed out two important places. The first is Phuc Tan. It may be a dive, but for years it has often been the only place open late. It’s also perhaps the only bar to change names — Phuc Tan, Barracuda, Lighthouse — and then go back to its original name. You also missed New Century, that huge nightclub which was shut down in 2007. It had a huge impact in the development of nightclubs in Hanoi. — JC

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC

VIETNAM EDITION DECEMBER 2013

night life

Linda’s You missed out two places that without them, wouldn’t have made nightlife into what it is today. Pacharan on Hai Ba Trung is on the spot formerly occupied by Monkey bar and prior to that Linda’s Bar, which opened in 1992 with Rod from England and his Vietnamese wife Linda. The bar was one small ground floor room on the corner with a behind-the-curtain, hole-in-the-floor toilet with a wall tap where the glasses were washed. Linda’s 2 opened in Vung Tau in 1993 in the alleyway at the side of the Palace Hotel. Linda’s 2 in Vung Tau was managed by a Kiwi guy called Andy and his room (accommodation) was between the bar and toilet. Painted on the wall of his room was something on the lines of ‘Andy’s place, keep out’. It was an all day bar. They were strange times. — CE NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

Design Your magazine is both vital and enjoyable, but from the perspective of a design teacher, the design is all over the place. The photography’s excellent, but you really don’t do it justice. Who is doing your layout? I think you need to have a chat with them. — DG

January 2014 Word | 9

The talk

Photo by Thiep Nguyen

Walk ‘n Ride

our years ago a new transport scheme was introduced to help relieve congestion pressure on Hanoi’s Old Quarter — the electric car. Designed to shuttle tourists around the labyrinthine streets of Hanoi’s historical heart, it was believed that this new mode of transport would reduce bottlenecks and pollution. While it provided a welcome new sightseeing service for tourists, the traffic jams and motorbike fumes remained. At the time a case was also made for pedestrianising parts of this area. The night market on Hang Dao was already successfully closing down a slither of streets on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Yet the logistics of such a move seemed insurmountable. While long-term this would be good for business — the area would effectively become a cross between an on-foot shopping precinct and a cultural tourist attraction — in the short term, the nature of street life, business and a lack of parking space and public transport facilities in downtown Hanoi would make this difficult to implement. And one simple issue — the constant need for motorbike deliveries and pick-ups — would make it impossible to keep such a zone vehicle-free. Fast forward to the beginning of 2014 and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, Ma May, Luong Ngoc Quyen, Ta Hien and Hang Buom have been cleared of all vehicles. It’s not the 24-hour, congestion-easing pedestrianisation that was hoped for, but it’s a

10 | Word January 2014

Pedestrianising the Old Quarter great start. For business owners there is better news. No longer do licensing rules require them to close before midnight — they can now stay open to 2am.

Uncapping the Bottleneck That such a move has been tried says much for the issues faced by the capital. While in Ho Chi Minh City, the Pham Ngu Lao area — known affectionately as The Pham — buses in tourists in their beer-drinking droves, Hanoi has struggled to have the same impact on visitors from overseas. As one bar owner explains, “In France, people save up for two years to come to Vietnam. But when they arrive and discover that everything closes at midnight, they leave disappointed. This is a capital city.” The opposite happens down south. In The Pham, bars and clubs stay open into the early hours, providing a Bangkok-like fiesta for tourists and locals of all ilks. Yet in Hanoi, it’s only in the now defunct Zone 9, Phuc Tan and occasionally in the Xuan Dieu area that the city’s watering holes are allowed to take such liberties. The days of Ta Hien bars staging allnight lock-ins are a thing of the past. Yet implementing a pedestrian-only area is not without its difficulties. For one, how will residents get in and out of their homes, especially if, as predicted, bars and

restaurants will spread tables and chairs out onto the street? Also, where will people park? A space has been reserved for motorbikes just by the dyke road under Chuong Duong Bridge. But will this be enough?

Spreading the Love Should the initiative work, then it is something that should be tried down south. Despite the area’s success, a lack of sidewalk space and narrow roads mean streets in The Pham such as Bui Vien and Do Quang Dao are often difficult to navigate, whether you are on foot or on a vehicle. A recent move to prevent chairs and tables from blocking the sidewalk has eased the congestion. But night-time pedestrianisation would be a welcome move — weaving through the mass of people forced to walk on the road can be dangerous. Businesses would also benefit. A pedestrianised area would make The Pham into a much more pleasant — and safer — space for night-time shopping, eating and drinking. Like Ben Thanh Market at night, it would attract more people. Despite the logistical issues surrounding the night-time pedestrianisation of parts of the Old Quarter, it is a welcome move. It’s good for business and it provides a hassle-free night-time eating and drinking environment for customers. Let’s hope local residents don’t kick up a fuss. If they do, then all could be rolled back again. — Nick Ross

the big five The Year of The Horse

Kicking off with New Year’s Eve festivities on Thursday Jan. 30, the Year of The Horse will descend on Vietnam the following day. So, time to hold onto your saddle, stirrups and mane for a year of leaders — 2014 is set for those who want to make a difference and know how to make it happen. According to astrologists, people born under the signs of Cancer, Pisces and Scorpio are set to have a great year, enjoying things that are close to them

3. 2.

Detroit House Relocates to Saigon

Detroit house music legend Alton Miller is coming to town. The man’s been active since 1988, when he helped make Detroit one of the epicentres of the underground house movement. Inspired by Stevie Wonder, Santana, Parliament, Funkadelic, the Philadelphia sound and DJs he’s play alongside of like Ron Hardy, Frankie Knuckles, Larry Levan and Timmy Regisford, Miller will be mixing the old with the new, and showing us what house music and hi-tech soul is all about. The Observatory is on the corner of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1. The party is on Jan. 11 at 10pm, VND150,000 entry

such as friends, travelling, romance and even learning a new language. For the Leos, Aries and Sagittarians out there, life will also be good, although the focus will be on their careers and responsibilities — the moneymaking potential for this year is huge. So prepare yourself, the Year of the Horse is set to be a fiery one. And if you’re not one of the lucky star signs mentioned above, grab destiny with both hands. Unless you believe in fate, that is.

Saigon Comedy Nights Returns

Remember Glenn Wool, the Canadian comic who wooed Hard Rock a year ago with his jokes about swans? Well the maestro of on-stage laughter and proverbial cool is back on Tuesday Jan. 14 at Cargo Bar, as part of a Southeast Asian tour. As ever, he won’t be alone. Celebrated comedienne Mandy Knight will also be shaking up some tale feathers — she was the first woman to ever MC at The Comedy Store in London. And while it’s yet to be confirmed, it’s hoped that some of the local comics will also be there to add some spice and all things nice. Doors open 8pm on Jan. 14, and admission surcharge is VND250,000 — includes a free beer. For more information email saigoncomedynights@gmail.com. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4

4. 5. The Me Linh Drums Based on the lives of the legendary first queens of Vietnam, the Trung sisters, whose inspiring bravery has so affected the history of this country 2,000 years ago, The Me Linh Drums is a classic of cai luong — Vietnamese opera — coming to Idecaf Theatre on Jan. 7. Performing the piece alongside others is Thanh Sang, the most famous cai luong singer living today, a legend since the 1960s. He hasn’t appeared on

stage in nearly a decade, and hasn’t performed the classics on this list since he sang them with Thanh Nga, the great diva of cai luong. This may well turn out to be Thanh Sang’s last concert, as well as the kind of event that people will look back on and say, “I was there.” The Me Linh Drums will be performed Jan. 7 at 8pm at Idecaf Theatre, 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1. For more info, call (08) 2229 9414

South Rakkas to Play Hanoi

Jamaican-born and Florida resident South Rakkas, with his filthy sound system beats and killer rhythms, will be playing CAMA ATK on Thursday Jan. 23. Garnering a reputation as one of the best in dancehall electro riddims, Rakkas has taken on remix-duty for artists such as M.I.A and Tricky, and is signed with Diplo’s notorious Mad Decent label. For more information what promises to be a huge gig in an intimate atmosphere, head to page 35

January 2014 Word | 11

brief ings

Conquering the Bridge

Photos provided by HCMC RUN

12 | Word January 2014

treams of sunlight crawled across the early morning sky as the sea of blue-clad participants stretched and jogged in place. Close to 5,500 people were about to flood Phu My Hung over the next couple of hours — a tidal wave of runners would stretch from Crescent Mall to the Phu My Bridge, and back again. There were children and the elderly, students and expats amongst the crowd at the Dec. 8 HCMC RUN 2013, the first edition of an annual concept. Even a few hardcore runners turned up barefoot. Some were there to have a good time and test the benefits of their healthy lifestyle, while others were there for the battle, warriors in running shoes. Many were embarking on their first-ever competitive race, and I was one of them. I came across the HCMC RUN when I was looking for a safe place to do road running in the city. In the weeks leading up to the event, free training sessions were organised to help drum up interest in the forthcoming race, and to promote a healthy and active way of life. After I ran their 7.6km route one Saturday afternoon, I signed up for the excruciating 4am start. That’s what endorphins will do to you. Three weeks later, I stood, one of thousands, wearing the obligatory blue T-shirt covered in sponsors’ logos and a bib that wasn’t going to be splattered with gravy — instead it declared my temporary identity, 6145, and the beast I was to combat, the 5km route. Three groups awaited their respective gunfire. The 10k racers — who would be expected to conquer the outrageous incline of Phu My Bridge, the run’s marquee challenge — were up front and the first to burst the banks. At the rear was a massive pool of 3k

runners and, sandwiched in between both groups, a deluge of 5k-ers.

The Floodgates Open Five minutes after the 10k group had departed it was our time to shine. The cascade of runners was soon flowing around The Crescent and pounding across Starlight Bridge (Cau Anh Sao). The route followed some of the main roads, none of which appeared to be officially closed for the race. Traffic was effectively managed, to an extent, by the local police who stood at certain points with warm smiles, occasionally helping the stewards to direct runners around corners. However, having to stop and wait for an impatient lorry driver to cross the junction of Tran Van Tra and Nguyen Luong Bang — where traffic was surging in both directions — wasn’t ideal. This is how a race like this ends: you feel the roar of the finish line in your belly, then you hear it and, no matter how painful that stitch is, or how tight your calves are, you are sprinting until you can’t feel your legs anymore. And the awareness of your accomplishment overflows as you make that final push across the finish line, proving that you can do anything. Apart from the traffic management issues, the first HCMC RUN was a success, raising VND950 million for the Ho Chi Minh City chapter of Vietnam Red Cross and other charities. Event organisers promise that the challenges faced by runners will be addressed for next year’s event and — with full and half-marathons being scheduled, and a predicted 10,000 runners — HCMC RUN 2014 should be epic. And, for those of you who are interested, my official time was 32:19, coming in a very respectable 24th place among the female 5k runners. — Jennifer Graham

January 2014 Word | 13

brief ings

Photo by Yves Schiepek

Burger Games McDonald’s is coming. Time to shake up the burger market

ll the burger talk this past month has centred on McDonald’s longawaited entrée into the chainhungry Vietnamese market, with a three-property location and 24-hour drivethru service in downtown Ho Chi Minh City set to debut after Tet. It’s a move that’s been years in the making. But lost in all the excitement is the fact that Vietnam already has its own American hamburger mega-chain in Burger King — two if you want to include Carls Jr. — and the reigning American rulers of the local burger scene have been squaring up to guard their 143,000 Vietnamese Facebook likes. There’s also the not-so-small matter of Korean burger chain, Lotteria, and the Filipino equivalent, Jolibee. Over the last couple of years, Lotteria has been doing refurbs and refits, and setting up its stall in as many corner locations as possible. Saigon Burger King has also been in on the act. In the past month or so they’ve added two westerner-friendly locations to the 11 that were already in Ho Chi Minh City — one in the expat enclave of Thao Dien and one in the tourist hub of Pham Ngu Lao. Careful watchers are thinking this constitutes a strategy. Says one expat, a 50-year-old Australian named Paul, “Burger King will still find the market. But the locals

14 | Word January 2014

will love McDonald’s. How many locals do you see here tonight? Most of them are gonna be expats.”

The Facts on the Ground True to form, five out of seven of the patrons interviewed at these new Burger King branches say they’ll stick with Burger King when they have the choice (the only bornand-bred Saigonese interviewed, 20-year-old Loan, remains undecided). “McDonald’s is boring,” says 17-year-old Giuliano, a three-year resident of Saigon. “It’s like the same kind of burger done all over. Here they mix it up with the burgers and, you know, it’s better.” “Burger King for me,” says Paul. “Dearer but it’s much better.” The first stop 62-year-old Ruth from Israel came to in Ho Chi Minh City was Burger King on Pham Ngu Lao. She found the Whopper quite tasty. But if she had a choice? “McDonald’s. Because it’s more familiar to me.” Loan ate burgers and fries with her friends at the Pham Ngu Lao location. For now, she’s picking Burger King over Lotteria and Jollibee: “I like it very much.”

Squaring Up From the rumours, it looks like McDonald’s

has their strategy set too. “They will have an impact,” says Paul. “They will blast the airwaves. The media spin next year will be incredible.” Leading up to the McDonald’s announcement, the press was filled with speculation as to where they’d land. Sites in out-of-downtown districts like Go Vap and District 10 were mentioned, as well as the triangle corner where Pham Ngu Lao splits off of Tran Hung Dao. Burger King never generated this kind of buzz. “It wasn’t too packed when they first opened,” Giuliano says about Burger King’s two-years-ago debut. And now, “it’s just consistent customers”. 23-year-old South African Cameron, with 16 years in Saigon to his credit, says, “I think when it opens it’s going to be quite busy, because the Vietnamese are gonna be like, ‘Oh McDonald’s, we’ve seen it in the movies and TV, but we’ve never been to a real one.’ So I think in terms of Vietnamese people, they’re gonna stop there to try it.” Paul sees it in more clear-cut terms. “Not a chance,” he says about Burger King’s chances. “Macca’s’ll kill ‘em. Macca’s are coming in for the price of a bowl of pho. [They’ll have] 200 restaurants next year.” — Ed Weinberg

January 2014 Word | 15

Photo provided by Tiffany Chung

brief ings

Sustainable urbanism and the future of architecture. Photos by Cristina Nualart

n Vietnam, it is rare to see exhibitions of the most prominent Vietnamese artists. The stars of the country’s art world are in high demand in art fairs, biennials and museums in other parts of the globe. In a career spanning little over a decade, Tiffany Chung has, on average, exhibited one solo show and two groups shows per year, and participated in an international biennial or triennial every two years. Her art has travelled from cities across the US, to Asia, Australia, Europe and the Middle East. The last time Tiffany’s paintings and sculptures were shown in Vietnam was five years ago, at Galerie Quynh in Ho Chi Minh City, where her new show An Archeology Project for Future Remembrance can be seen this month, across the gallery’s two spaces.

A Landmark Exhibition This exhibition is possibly the first in Vietnam that shows the type of interdisciplinary research that is making waves in intellectual circles. At some point in the second half of the 20th century, the modernist admiration for the instinctual genius of the artist gave way to a trend for intelligent artworks that demonstrated the artist’s ability to articulate theories and illustrate concepts. Saigon resident Tiffany Chung’s brainpower seems to be switched onto hyperactive all the time. Tiffany speaks with energy and sharp insight. Her research is a solid backup for her unapologetic opinions. For a long time, she has been a good

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Tiffany Chung friend of Erik Harms, assistant professor of anthropology at Yale. In the Dong Khoi space, the collaboration between the artist and the anthropologist is presented linearly. Excerpts from Erik Harms’ next book are glossy art objects. Selected passages of colonialist propaganda and historical descriptions of Saigon are also readable art. But the research is not just text, it is drawn into the maps and crafted into the sculptures. The drawings on vellum paper, velvety and translucent, are based on historical maps or futuristic maps projecting urban plans of areas yet to be built. The gleeful layers of the drawing, minute doodley patterns in pretty colours, deceive us into thinking they are imaginative fabrications. Their hidden research tells other stories. The maps — a trademark of her art practice — critique the political decisions that shape borders, lead to wars, construct artificial communities or displace people. The six map drawings in this show are specifically about areas in southern Vietnam, mostly referencing the forced evictions of people who lived on land slated to be turned into a fancy financial district. The threechannel video art also comments on that issue.

Art as Prophecy The gem of the exhibition is the hanging installation, Stored in a jar: monsoon, drowning fish, color of water, and the floating world. The piece was commissioned by the Singapore

Biennale in 2011. On glass puddles, dozens of miniature houses, houseboats and boats are aligned with neat gardens reminiscent of a middle-class American suburb. The detailed architectural models are inspired by traditional Asian design and materials. Rather than glorifying colonial architecture, Tiffany’s art admires older vernacular architecture. Not for sentimental reasons, however. The design of her minihousing project is informed by in-depth research, adapting ideas from all over the region, from Japan to Thailand as well as Vietnam, and crafting the models with cutting-edge technology. The modern and the traditional coexist. The overall magical appearance of this calming and poised artwork is a plan for a portable model of sustainable urbanism. Wooden houses, some on stilts, have solar panels and rainwater collectors. The evidence she builds from here is a projection of how climate change will affect the Mekong region in the coming decades. Floods will increase their devastating capacity, so we should prepare for them, she suggests. In this, perhaps her floating communities are less artifice and more science than her choice of mediums suggests. — Cristina Nualart See the art exhibition of the year before the exhibition closes on Jan. 10, 2014. It’s spread across Galerie Quynh’s two venues: 65 De Tham, Q1, and 2nd floor, 151/3 Dong Khoi, Q1, both in Ho Chi Minh City. For more info, head to galeriequynh.com

January 2014 Word | 17

brief ings Speed Texting A man believed to be a Saudi local was recently caught on video sitting on the hood of a speeding car along a Saudi Arabian freeway. The video shows him wearing Saudi’s national costume — the thawb and the

keffiyeh — taking out his phone and sending an SMS as the car travels at 100 km/h. It’s unsure whether the video was a deliberate stunt or a short movie made by some reckless Saudis. But one thing’s for sure — kids, don’t try it at home.

Only in Asia Stories from around the region Tower Infinity

The Perfect Spread

Incheon in South Korea has decided to go against the phallic symbol, ultrahigh skyscraper grain by constructing a 450m-high building in stealth mode. Yes, you guessed it. Tower Infinity, as the structure will be called, will be invisible to the naked eye. A feat of modern human ingenuity, according to California-based GDS Architects, the skyscraper will use LEDs to project the image of the sky from behind it, as captured by cameras on the other side. In the process, Tower Infinity will disappear from Incheon’s skyline. Located just a few miles east of Korea’s busiest airport, anyone with 9/11 intentions can think again — you cannot plough into what you cannot see. Let’s just hope that normal flight paths are diverted, otherwise flying into Seoul Airport could give turbulence a new meaning.

How do you evenly spread butter on bread or toast without creating the requisite rip or tear? Well, one option, of course, is to make sure the butter is softened or slightly melted. But for those who prefer to have their butter come cold, directly out of the fridge, Japan’s Metex Corporation have the answer — Easy Butter. A simple contraption that allows you to grate your butter into strings, the resulting substance is easier to spread. It’s fun, too, as you watch the butter come out in little stringy tendrils from a plastic tube. So when life bugs you and all those insignificant but vitally important things just get you down, now you have the answer. Easy Butter. What more could a man or woman ask for?

Hello Kitty Beer At the end of last year, Hello Kitty maker Sanrio introduced their latest marketing stunt — Hello Kitty Beer. Available in China and Taiwan in a number of fruity flavours including banana, lemon-lime, passion fruit and peach, the tipple is colourfully packaged with emblems of the popular cartoon character. But worry not. For anyone concerned that this brew will be alcohol-free, think again — Hello Kitty has it covered. At between 2.3 and 2.8 percent alcohol, this is perfect for that young kid or experimental teenager looking to get into the adult world of boozing. Even better, according to one blogger in China, the brew is so “ridiculously smooth and tasty”, that no one would easily know it’s beer. As another reviewer was quick to remark, the passion fruit-flavoured beer has the tinge of Fanta, but with “a beer aftertaste.” Time to get those mot-hai-ba-yos going…

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Facebook Street Vietnam has officially become the first country to have a street named after Facebook. Called ‘Duong Facebook’, the road in the north-central region of Ha Tinh has been named after the Social Media website thanks to the charitable work of the Facebook group Khan quang do TP Ho Chi Minh — the Ho Chi Minh City Red Scarf. In response to the flooding in Ha Tinh in October earlier this year, the group visited three of the most affected areas — the rural districts of Huong Khe, Huong Son and Vu Quang. However, so touched were the group by the poverty they encountered in the village of Yen Hoi in Vu Quang, that they ran an additional campaign to raise VND30 million to build a road for the people of Hamlet 7, who were otherwise cut off from civilisation. The road will create easier transport access for the villagers, who live a life of extreme rural poverty.

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January 2014 Word | 19

brief ings

In mid-December, to celebrate 40 years of diplomatic ties between France and Vietnam, the Reunification Palace was lit up in a spectacular 3D light show created by Les Allumeurs d'Images. Running for 15 minutes, with a number of performances over each night, tens of thousands filled both the palace grounds and the streets outside to watch the spectacle. Accompanied by live music and the voice of singer Le Cat Trong Ly, and organised by Mr. Festival himself, Philippe Bouler, it was a show that will live long in memory.

Photo by Yves Schiepek

Photos by Nick Ross

Lighting Up the Skies

The Buffalo is Back After an electrical fire knocked out its lights a few months ago, one of the most photographed and iconic symbols of modern Saigon has returned to light up the streets of The Pham. Yes, you got it in one. That enormous Crazy Buffalo sign is back, and with a vengeance, too. Overlooking the intersection of Bui Vien and De Tham, it will make you forget all the talk about McDonald's. The buffalo sign is the real deal.

20 | Word January 2014

brief ings

Engaging With Vietnam A Five years in the life of a conference Photos by Cristina Nualart

ll over the world, academic conferences are held yearly on topics ranging from nanotechnology to supply chain finance and the oral literatures of Africa. Hordes of lecturers and a handful of industry professionals flock to them to discuss their investigations on some minute detail of their speciality. Some years ago, Dr. Phan Le Ha, a Vietnamese lecturer based at Australia’s Monash University, wanted a platform for a broadminded discussion on her home country. As people who follow a dream sometimes do, she set about making it happen — organising a conference on all things Vietnam that’s now five years running. From Melbourne, to Hanoi, to Hawaii, Engaging With Vietnam has brought together scholars from all sorts of fields together to discuss the future, past and endlessly-curious present of the country. This past month, the 5th Engaging With Vietnam conference addressed the theme ‘The Multiple Ways of Knowing Vietnam’. The event was held in Thai Nguyen University, two hours north of Hanoi.

A Grab Bag of Ideas From Dec. 16 to Dec. 17, 200 researchers shared their work. In coats, scarves and hats,

hundreds of attendants — many of them students from the hosting university — sipped hot Thai Nguyen tea in between notetaking. It was easy to forget details, over the course of 100 presentations across the two days, which flustered many an indecisive person. Would you choose to learn about mitigating climate change or find out the impact on Vietnam of the Trans-Pacific Partnerships? One session on cultivating organic rice could be continued with one on conflict management, or one on cheating in schools. In one particularly interesting session, PhD candidate Nguyen Anh Tuan explained the difference between a psychic and a medium. He gave examples of how an egg and some chopsticks are used to find the remains of lost ancestors. His discussion on extrasensory perception and paranormal beliefs preceded an impassioned call to female empowerment, inspired by the works of Vietnamese and Filipino women artists. From Berkeley, California, history professor Peter Zinoman came to present his book on writer Vu Trong Phung, one of the most influential Vietnamese authors

of the past century. Another history professor, Liam Kelley from the University of Hawaii, demonstrated how digital mapping systems and other software can engender a global collaboration on research in the humanities. As we know from Wikipedia, projects like this utilise the expertise of many individuals willing to contribute their time and knowledge to the greater good. Dozens more speakers, coming from all continents, shared their ideas — including yours truly, in connecting the work of artists in Saigon with ethnographic research on the region. The conference that started off as a personal project has proved to be an ongoing success. Hosting it in Vietnam offers many local educators and professionals the possibility of participating in an international event without the prohibitive cost of long-distance travel. The timing of the conference also gave its international visitors something useful — the opportunity to plan a Christmas holiday in Vietnam. Many of the speakers are now engaging with Vietnam’s sights and cities firsthand. Without a doubt, Vietnam will offer plenty of material to continue the dialogue. — Cristina Nualart To learn more about this and previous editions, head to engagingwithvietnam.com

January 2014 Word | 21

Ho Chi minh city what s on The Year of the Horse Tet is fast coming up, and with it, all the hotel specials you can handle. You can get your banh chung and quyt everywhere, but if you’re looking for something a bit different, odds are these places will have it.

Provided by Movenpick Hotel

Caravelle caravellehotel.com In honour of the moon revolving around the earth, Nineteen will make your tongue revolve around your mouth with its full-course Tet feast, every evening from Jan. 30 to Feb. 5. Indulge in an array of time-honoured Tet delicacies: ocean-fresh fish and seafood, imported meats grilled and barbecued to perfection and a warm oyster pass around. The East-meets-West spread will feature mouthwatering local dishes such as beef in la lot leaves and banh xeo alongside international classics, such as red wine-poached beef tenderloin, saffronmarinated chicken and Chinese steamed whole fish.

InterContinental intercontinental.com/saigon The InterCon is covering all aspects of the Tet experience this year, starting with the luckiest ones. At 10am on Jan. 31, a local dance troupe will gather in the hotel’s lobby, dressed as lions, and shake their tails to bring you a prosperous 2014. And if you stick around, your luck will only multiply with the prosperity toss of the Yee-Sang Salad, a ritual salad tossing that symbolises ushering in prosperity and abundance for the coming New Year — from VND250,000 for two people at Yu Chu. At Market 39, things

22 | Word January 2014

get even more bountiful, with a buffet selection of traditional Tet dishes and other international selections, priced at VND498,000++ per person for lunch, VND899,000++ for dinner.

Mövenpick moevenpick-saigon.com You have more loved ones than you know what to do with, and you won’t have time to break banh with all of them. Mövenpick’s got you sorted this Tet, with lucky cakes and Tet hampers communicating your love and appreciation through a variety of red velvet, passion fruit, tiramisu, lychee and green tea pastries, and some of the most prized gourmet products a hamper-opener can receive. Lucky cakes are available now through February, Tet hampers are available now through Feb. 7 at Cay Da Café.

Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn Shang Palace is giving into its royal whims this Tet, with one of the most sumptuous spreads you’ll find in the city — with must-have delicacy Yusheng, containing “wealthy” salmon, jelly fish, eye-catching vegetables and sauces that represent your luck and abundance in the coming year; a “prosperous” big bowl feast with premium ingredients such as abalone, oyster, sea

cucumber, scallop, roast duck and tiger prawn; cured meat and a special dual fish glutinous rice cake. And if you’re not wealthy and lucky enough by the end of all that, at noon on Jan. 31, a lion dance will bestow all the good vibes you need for a successful new year.

Sheraton sheratonsaigon.com All through January, Mojo Café is welcoming Tet with a special Asian delicacy menu, featuring Chinese roasted duck sandwiches, grilled fish with chilli and lemongrass, prawn and mushroom noodle soups, every day from 11am till late. From Jan. 15 to Jan. 31, Li Bai Chinese restaurant really anticipates Tet with a traditional New Year Yee Sang with salmon, wok-fried baby lobster with chilli sauce and deep-fried cod fish with special sauce. Not only will luck be on your side leading up to Tet, but also a full belly.

VinSpace Garage vin-space.com VinSpace doesn’t have food for you this Tet, but they are hosting a special Tet calligraphy workshop to help you wish your eventual benefactors “Phuc — Good Fortune”, “Loc — Prosperity” and “Tho — Longevity”. Join them on Jan. 18, 10am to noon with your kids, or come by 2pm to 4pm that same day for the adult session.

Jasmine Goes Three Well-known and well-loved spa and hair salon Jasmine on Ton That Thiep has opened its third location, this time in the confines of the former Eden Mall, now known as Union Square, Vincom A. Providing a more exclusive, top-end edge to its other locations, the spa and salon includes a range of treatments from pedicures, manicures and all things nails, through to facials, foot, leg, hand and full body massage, waxing, scrub and hair services. Under the auspices of three, well-travelled hair professionals

— Jonny, Kevin and Ukrainian, Dimitry — the full range of hair, cut, colouring and treatments are available here, all in the confines of a pleasant, contemporary spa

and salon atmosphere. The new Jasmine of Saigon is at B2-01B, Union Square, Vincom A, 171 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3936 9195, jasminespa.vn

Vietnamese Fruit Fruit is abundant in Vietnam, coming in many forms and varieties. And for Vietnamese people from the various regions and provinces of this country, fruit brings with it a series of sensory emotions — smells, tastes and memories — visions of childhood, reminiscences of the countryside, feelings about home and the past. Such evocative images and memories are captured in the collection of essays, Vietnamese Fruit and Other Stories, by author Cao Thi Lan Phuong. Costing VND286,000

and now available in bookshops around the country in English, the 112-page work is published by Phong Lan Printing & Media Company in association with Thanh Nien Publishing House. Evocative, lyrical and nostalgic, as the author herself writes in the book’s foreword, “I grew up sitting in the sweetsop tree in my grandparent’s plot eating my lunch after school, and joining the other kids in their rowdy search for wild fruits in the garden. Today when I see fruit, I see the little stories around them.”

January 2014 Word | 23

Ho Chi minh city what s on

Residents’ Corner San Art started its fourth six-month art residency last month, while Saigon Outcast is embarking on its second. San Art gives its residents six months and VND21 million towards a session-ending group exhibition, Outcast’s is a bit more free-form — “Very similar to couchsurfing, but for artists.” They also have plans for an end-of-residency art exhibition. Here we break down the players, and what they’re doing with their free time.

1. Nguyen Van Du / San Art Born in Vung Tau in 1986, Du started painting when he was three. In his professionally active years, he’s practised in Ho Chi Minh City. He has especially vivid ideas about history, politics, social problems and all that informs Vietnamese society.

2. Le Phi Long / San Art Born in Hue in 1988, Long studied applied arts — interior design — there, then moved to Hanoi, where he’s since been active in a number of collaborative projects. He’s very interested in nature and environment, and feels that being eco-friendly and staying in harmony with nature is central to his artworks.

3. Lai Dieu Ha / San Art A 38-year-old Hanoian artist, this session will help her connect with a city that she’s

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done little in artistically, even through a career which has seen her exhibit in Japan, Cambodia, Myanmar, Norway and Israel. Her art is unique, obsessive and multi-faceted. She’s currently interested in psychology, especially in the experiences of people who suffer from loneliness and mental breakdown.

4. Yanneth Albornoz / Saigon Outcast Yanneth was born in Panama, “with an overexposure of sun, tropicality”, and ever since her career started 20 years ago, she’s been travelling to places like Barcelona, Costa Rica, Berlin and Brazil and trying things out. During Janet's residency, she will also be hosting talks and sharing her life/travel experiences and how they influence her perceptions and creativity. She will also be hosting workshops on graphic design and

creating acrylics on vinyl paintings. She’s worked in logo design and typography, scriptwriting for TV, art direction, acting, fashion illustration and painting. She doesn’t yet know in exactly which direction she’ll take the residency, but it will follow these motifs: “Aspirational advertising and popular culture. Prestige and decadence. Belief and illusion. What doesn’t match finally looks good.” Find out more about San Art’s current residents — and apply for the next residency — at san-art.org/sanartlaboratory/sanart-laboratory.html, or drop by San Art Laboratory at 40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Jan. 25 at 6pm for an open studio meet-and-greet To see more of Yanneth’s stuff, head to issuu. com/louloutoulouse/docs/yanneth_albornozcv-pf-2013, or check out her illustration of Le Cong Vinh in this month’s issue

“83%

Canvas & Wine VinSpace’s popular series has two editions in January, which will teach you how to paint like Monet and Klee — or at least feed you enough to make you think you do. VinSpace’s District 1 garage will host the Monet and The Impressionists session on Jan. 16, and the District 2 art studio will host Paint like Paul Klee! on Jan. 23. VinSpace Garage is at 95 Pasteur, Q1, and VinSpace Art Studio is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2. Both sessions go from 6.30pm to 9pm. For more info, go to vin-space.com or call 0907 729846

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Dance Parties Electric Kicks Everyone’s favourite DIY indie electro sleazy discopunk dance party comes back to Broma Jan. 17, with the O Dau-representing indie attack of DJ BLX ATTK leading the pack. Indie fun in all its forms will be represented, with EADJ mainstays Superkid and Starchild filling in the gaps. Jan. 17 at Broma, 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1. The sleaze kicks up at 9pm, VND50,000 entry

Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop You might not have the stamina you used to have in the 1960s, but you can still shuffle to the good old American rock ‘n roll and Motown you get with Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop. This month, EADJ friend and collaborator DJ Stickbug takes a break from his 1950s and 1960s rockabilly-rocking frontman duties in the 67s, and lays down the Motown alongside Superkid, who will be dropping the good time jams. Jan. 24 at La Fenetre Soleil, 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1. The get down starts at 9pm, VND50,000 entry

Funky Technicians It’s not Vegas unless you have a house band. And now, The Grand-Ho Tram Strip has one that would fit in any nightclub in Las Vegas — the irrepressible HB Wild, led by bass-playing dynamo Henri Brown, cousin of Jimi Hendrix and son of Music Hall of Fame inductee Eleanor Collins. The six-person ensemble busting out the funky licks alongside him hails from

all over the funky globe, and will be playing Club 9 weekly, Tuesday through Sunday nights. They cover everything from rock to funk, pop to jazz to soul, and have done so in hip resorts the world over. Catch HB Wild Tuesday to Sunday nights at Club 9, in The Grand-Ho Tram Strip. Call (08) 6437 88888 or visit thegrandhotramstrip. com for more info

Thinking Inside the Box Running until Jan. 12 is Jérémie Setton’s Boîte 2, a cultural proposal of a new medium for visual artists — a box two metres wide, designed to welcome a contemporary work of art. The work intends to connect artists and cultural professionals, through a connection forged by a duplicate box in Marseille. Together they form a network, promoting the mobility of French artists abroad and foreigners in France. Although it’s a bit high-concept for some, this is the last remnant of the excellent France-Vietnam Friendship Year in Vietnam (the cross-culture continues in 2014 in France). Go catch it before another 10 years go by. The exhibition is on until Jan. 12 at The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1

money on their health insurance.” How much can you save? Call Anna on 0909 379 256 Email us: anna@ insuranceinvietnam.com free advice

Ho Chi minh city what s on REACHing for the Stars They asked for the title pun by naming their organisation REACH, but the young people they help didn’t ask for the situations they’ve found themselves in. To benefit their good work, the charitable org organised a cycling fundraiser this past month, ascending the Hai Van mountain pass near Danang. 30 participants, from as far off as Thailand, took part in what REACH hopes will be the first of many. They’re already planning next December’s ride, but their work doesn’t wait till then — or they wouldn’t have been able to provide the free life skills and job training they’ve given to 9,000 disadvantaged youth over the past five years. To see more of REACH’s work and how you can get involved, go to reach.org.vn

The Month in San Art

Masters of Food and Wine The name of this series doesn’t just refer to the Park Hyatt Saigon’s culinary maestros, who will host the January edition on Jan. 18 at 2.30pm. It also refers to the class’s attendees, who will eat through some Saigon staples, made by the hands of the chefs, and learn to make their own. On the menu this

The New Sounds of the Park Lounge From Jan. 21 through Apr. 14, the Park Hyatt Saigon is welcoming the classy Canadian songstress Michèle Kaye to the Lounge, where she’ll be performing every night except Tuesdays, from 8pm to midnight. Her style is reminiscent of classic era jazz singing from the likes of Doris Day and Julie London — but she’s also got her own style, winning a Toronto Independent Music Award in 2007 before embarking on her Asian residency adventure. Park Hyatt Saigon is at 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Check parkhyattsaigon.com for details

time around are spring rolls with mustard leaf, rice paper and seafood, and Vietnamese crispy fried pork and BBQ duck crepes. The Jan. 18 edition of Park Hyatt Masters of Food and Wine is priced at VND1.1 million++ per person. To reserve your spot, email nguyen. luu@hyatt.com or call (08) 3824 1234

San Art’s tentacles are continuing to reach through Saigon, into lecture halls and shop windows, and into the unexpected directions their fourth class of residents will bring with them after this ongoing session. Part of the year-long Encounter series, Assoc. Prof. Thanes Wongyannava — editor of a political science journal, art writer and sociologist at Thammasat University in Bangkok — will discuss his ideas concerning ‘Buddhocentrism’, which embraces an idea of Buddhism in contemporary life moving from a focus on ‘enlightenment’ towards a belief in all things ‘delightful’. His two lectures are at Hoa Sen University (8 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1), Jan. 16 and Jan. 21. Over at the Phuong My flagship store (81 Le Thanh Ton, Q1), Phuong My and San Art’s second shop window silk collaboration is ending on Jan. 15, and a new installment is coming, courtesy of Sandrine Llouquet. Through sci-fi and astronomic symbolism, the artist will explore the idea of the human body and the transformation of the soul. And at San Art’s HQ, the group exhibition of the last group of residents is coming to a close, while the new group is just settling in for their six-month experience. See alumni Nguyen Hong Ngoc and Phan Thao Nguyen’s Right Fiction over at San Art’s gallery space (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) until Jan. 24, and meet new residents Lai Thi Dieu Ha from Hanoi, Le Phi Long from Hue and Nguyen Van Du from Ho Chi Minh City on Jan. 25 at 6pm at San Art Laboratory (40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh). For more info on these events, head to sanart.org

Raising Saigon’s Michelin Stars This month, the Caravelle has the pleasure of hosting Chef Christopher Coutanceau, holder of two Michelin stars at his namesake restaurant in La Rochelle, disciple of culinary legends such as Michel Guerard and Ferran Adria. On Jan. 8 he’ll be holding court at Reflections, teaching a menu of mussels and shells, grilled red mullet with shrimp tempura and smoked leek and raspberry vinaigrette — VND1.48 million net per person. From Jan. 8 to Jan. 12, Chef Coutanceau will be preparing an a la carte menu, a four-course degustation menu and a

testing menu — featuring an appetiser of caramelised, seared scallops and coral lobster sauce, a main course of tuna and vegetables piperade with grilled sardine tapenade, and a pineapple ravioli with lychee ice cream, passion fruit sorbet and angel wings for dessert. During the week, fashion designer Pascale Valery Tung Lam will also showcase 30 of her inspired dresses, while French photographer Jean Luc Pechino will exhibit photos on the intersection of fashion, art and gastronomy. For more information, call (08) 3823 4999 or email eam-fb@caravellehotel.com

The Crystal Ball Venus in Vietnam Goethe-Institut is organising a joint exhibition of two Hanoi artists active a generation apart — Vu Dan Tan and Nguyen Nghia Cuong — focusing on the image of femininity through sculture and installation art. Venus in Vietnam will hit the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts from Jan. 11 to Jan. 24, with an opening on Jan. 10 and an art talk Jan. 12. This exhibition marks the first-ever curated institutional presentation of Tan, a seminal contemporary artist whose multi-media cross-disciplinary practice broke new ground in the 1980s with its playful and conceptual use of

found materials, becoming one of the leading artists of Vietnam’s post-Doi Moi scene. Cuong, a graduate of Vietnam Fine Arts University, will counterpoint Tan’s perspectives with his ironic approach to contemporary reality, dominated by consumerism and brand-culture. The opening is on Jan. 10 at 6pm, with an introduction by curator Iola Lenzi — and the exhibition shows every day after until Jan. 24 at the Museum of Fine Arts, 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1. The art talk happens Jan. 12 at 3.30pm. For more info, call (08) 3600 9588 or email prog@ saigon.goethe.org

Once again, CanCham is looking into their crystal ball at the First International Business Luncheon of the New Year of the Horse — The Year Ahead: Executive Summary and Outlook 2014. This Jan. 16 at New World Hotel, HR and recruitment, legal issues, socio-economic development, investment trends and more will be discussed, as CanCham and cohosts from all over the globe look forward to the unique challenges and opportunities of the new year. Tickets for the Jan. 16 luncheon are VND850,000 for members of CanCham and affiliate orgs, VND1.5 million for non-members, VND7.5 million for a table of 10. Registration is at 11am, the location is New World Hotel at 76 Le Lai, Q1. To register, contact hcmc@ canchamvietnam.org or (08) 3824 3754

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Ho Chi minh city Just In

Home for the Holidays… All Year Round Queens Hall

Local Legends

It looks like Q4’s influence is spreading, as the new space Events at Queens Hall is opening up right across the alley at 5-7 Nguyen Tat Thanh. With 2,000sqm of events space, the venue is set to welcome gala dinners, TV shootings, product launches — and all the performances the former nightclub occupants put on. The focus is on state-of-the-art, and it looks like District 4 is soon going to be a nightlife force to be reckoned with. It also happens to be the largest venue in or close to downtown Saigon. Events at Queens Hall is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4. For more info, head to eventsvietnam.com

The former owner of the Kebab Café has been busy. A couple of months ago, he launched delishop.vn, an online shop — soon to complemented with a District 1 showroom — dedicated to all the best made-in-Vietnam products available. Their range currently extends over 300 chocolate products, biscuits, candies and dry fruits, tea and coffee, home and beauty products and nice gift sets for all occasions. In a few months’ time, they’re hoping to ratchet up the offerings into the 1,000-item range, and show a whole new side to Vietnamese gourmanderie. Search the current offerings at delishop.vn, or call 0909 474534

Your in-laws are coming to town, and you just want to enjoy your time off. What to do? Employ the services of the new — and amazing — Villa Song Saigon, a 23-room boutique hotel on the District 2 side of the river, and everybody wins. The Villa’s got all the amenities, with a 30m-long swimming pool, gym, spa, bistro, meeting space and lushly manicured gardens, but inside each individually-tailored room you’ll find the real draw. With technology, art and traditional luxury meeting in a different sweet spot in every room, every visit will be uniquely relaxing — especially if your in-laws invite you to dinner. Villa Song Saigon is at 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, or on (08) 3744 6090 and villasongsaigon.com

AIS: Babies Edition Australian International School has just developed a childcare programme in Thao Dien for kids two years and younger, to support busy working parents. Situated in the safe and secure Xi Riverview Palace compound, the Early Childhood Centre now offers a stimulating and nurturing environment for infants as young as three months, toddlers and pre-school children up to five years of age. Included in the facilities are a soft play adventure playground, a splash pool and two age-appropriate soft turf playgrounds. Teachers are qualified expat Early Years’ professionals who teach through ‘purposeful play’, laying a foundation for years of future academic, social and emotional success. For more information, contact Ms. Thanh Do at thanh.do@aisvietnam.com, call (08) 3519 2727 or head to aisvietnam.com

28 | Word January 2014

Lion City Exclusive in the Superbowl The expansion of the Singaporean restaurant chain continues with their latest offering in The Superbowl just down from Tan Son Nhat Airport. Combining Singaporean fare — think chilli crab, frog porridge, mee goreng and nasi lemak — with teppanyaki-style cooking, the use of an open grill to prepare cuisine in front of customers, here you have all the flamboyance and magician-like skills of the chef right at the table. Alternatively, you can avoid the table-side entertainment and eat like a normal diner with the fare coming straight out of the kitchen. As with all their other restaurants, Lion City have a constant flow of promotions. Simply click on ex.lioncity.com.vn to find out what’s on offer. And oh, damn the food here is good! Lion City Exclusive is at Superbowl, A43, Truong Son, Ward 4, Tan Binh

The Same Great Taste in a New Package

Saffron There’s a newcomer to the Mediterranean scene in Saigon, and it’s brushed past North Africa, the Middle East, Greece, Italy, Spain and southern France on the way. Sister to fellow Tony Fox-owned restos Ciao Bella and Phat Phuc, Saffron brings the same quality and panache to

its cuisine, at reasonable prices as well. The price hovers around VND190,000 for a three-course set lunch, with mains coming in at around the VND200,000 mark. Saffron is at 51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, or call (08) 3824 8358

Just in time for the bleary eyes of New Year’s Day, Italian Point is introducing new packaging of the Punto Italia espressos it distributes in places such as An Phu Supermarket (43 Thao Dien, Q2), Central Mart Saigon Pearl (Sapphire Tower 1, Saigon Pearl, 92 Ham chui Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh), Tiep Thi Gia Dinh Foods (Kumho Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1) and Pendo Gourmet Shop (83 Thao Dien, Q2). Using a modern technology allowing for precise calibration of each ground coffee, the company aims to make it ideal for preparing espresso with professional and home use machines. For more info, visit italianpointvn.com

+84 8 3742 4040

enrolments@aisvietnam.com | www.aisvietnam.com

January 2014 Word | 29

Hcmc

january 2014 venus in vietnam

ost-Doi Moi, the representation of women in Vietnamese contemporary art moved past the simple non la and ao dai. This exhibition presents the image of femininity, in its playful and ironic present definition.

Calligraphy Workshop

on’t know your chuc mung from nam moi? Join VinSpace’s calligraphy experts for two sessions (kids and adults), as they teach you to sketch three of the luckiest words in the Tet vocabulary.

Jan. 10 — Fine Arts Museum

01 wednesday

New Year’s Day Lunch/Dinner. @ Nineteen restaurant, Caravelle Hotel

02 thursday

Jan. 18 — VinSpace Garage

13 Monday 14 Tuesday Saigon Comedy Nights. 8pm @ Cargo Bar. See Big5

03 friday

15 Wednesday

04 saturday

Last day of Silk of Light exhibition. @ Phuong My Flagship Store (81 Le Thanh Ton, D1)

Project Sci-Fi Awards party - Ceremony. 6.30pm @ Cargo Bar

16 Thursday

05 sunday 06 monday 07 tuesday The Me Linh Drums performs. 8pm @ IDECAF. See Big5

08 wednesday Culinary Class with Michelin-star Chef Christopher Coutanceau. 2pm @ Reflections Restaurant, Caravelle Hotel. See What’s On

09 thursday 10 friday Last day to apply for ChopShots - Documentary Film Festival Southeast Asia. Visit goethe.de for more info Venus in Vietnam exhibition opening. 6pm @ Museum of Fine Arts HCMC

11 saturday

CanCham Crystal Ball Luncheon. From 11am @ New World Hotel. See What’s On Canvas & Wine: Monet and the Impressionists. 56.30pm @ VinSpace Garage ( 95 Pasteur, D1) ‘Encounter’ Lecture with Thannes Wongyannava - Part 1. @ Hoa Sen University (8 Nguyen Van Trang, D1). See What’s On

17 Friday Electric Kicks. 9pm @ Broma

18 Saturday

Detroit music legen Alton Miller in Saigon. 10pm @ The Observatory. See Big5

Special Tet Calligraphy. 2 sessions for kids and adults @ VinSpace Garage. Visit vin-space.com for more info

12 sunday

19 Sunday

Venus in Vietnam: Art Talk. 3.30pm @ Museum of Fine Arts HCMC

30 | Word January 2014

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Jan. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop

J Stickbug has made the very-semisomewhat big time with rockabilly rockers the 67s, but he hasn’t forgotten his friends. To show it, he’ll be DJing at Everyone’s A DJ’s monthly good ol’fashioned rock ‘n roll night at Fenetre.

Lion Dance

ou’re already lucky if you’re heading to the InterCon during Tet, but the local dance troupe they’ve enlisted will work on making you luckier, with tail-shaking lion moves that will leave you feeling optimistic.

Jan. 31 — InterContinental

Jan. 24 — La Fenetre Soleil

20 Monday

27 Monday

21 Tuesday ‘Encounter’ Lecture with Thannes Wongyannava - Part 2. @ Hoa Sen University. See What’s On Michèle Kaye jazz performance. From 21 Jan. to Apr. 14 @ the Lounge, Park Hyatt Saigon. See What’s On

22 Wednesday Venus in Vietnam Exhibition. From Jan. 11 to 24 @ Museum of Fine Arts HCMC

23 Thursday Canvas & Wine: Paint like Paul Klee. 6.30pm @ VinSpace Art Sudio (6 Le Van Mien, D2)

24 Friday Last day of Right Fiction Exhibition. @ San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh)

Tapas and Wine Pairing night. Every night in Jan. and Feb. @ Slate, Moevenpick Hotel

28 Tuesday 29 Wednesday Yee Sang dish for a lucky Tet. From Jan. 15 to 31 @ Li Bai, Sheraton Saigon

30 Thursday

25 25 Saturday saturday

San Art Laboratory Session 4: Open Studio. 6pm @ San Art Laboratory (40/18 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh)

Full-course feast for Tet. From Jan. 30 to Feb. 5 @ Nineteen restaurant, Caravelle Hotel Lucky Cakes and Tet Hampers. Until Feb. 7 @ Cay Da Café, Moevenpick Hotel

26 Sunday

31 Friday

January 2014 Word | 31

hanoi what s on BOOKWORM’S TET MUSIC SPECTACULAR The guys at Bookworm are bringing some cultural fare during the holiday time for two nights only. First up is at Bookworm Too on Jan. 25 in Nghi Tam Village from 1pm, while 24 hours later the same show is at the Chau Long store, also from 1pm. The melting pot features live traditional Vietnamese orchestra, a traditional fortune teller (with a translator available), Tet calligraphy, the printing of lunar zodiac animals, giving guests the chance to make banh chung Tet cake, to he sticky rice sculptures for kids, traditional rice wine tasting and lastly free hot mulled Tet wine. Ethnic Cham raku fired clay zodiac animals, traditional and modern Tet toys and some crazy book bargains are also in store for guests. Bookworm is located in Hanoi Cooking Centre, 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh. Bookworm Too is at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

CAMA SKANKS IT UP Skank the Tank Reggae Soundsystem’s monthly reggae night comes to its band of followers on Jan. 3 at CAMA ATK. Selectors Slo-Lo and Selecta Elpee will be joined by a powerful selection of kick-ass rum-heavy cocktails from 8pm to 11pm. Entry is free. CAMA ATK is located at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. For more info check out facebook.com/stt.soundsystem, facebook.com/SubElements or, cama-atk.com

WINE TASTING WITH APPETIsERS Lovers of fine wine are welcome to join the wine tasting evening on Jan. 31 at Millenium (Café des Arts) (11b Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem) with some top offerings proposed by The Warehouse’s specialists. In case you get peckish there will be an array of delicious appetisers. The wine tasting evening takes place on the last Thursday of every month. For reservations contact Jeremie Hugues on 0904 323711 or Gerard Gastel on 0904 134490, cafe-des-arts.com

GEEK FIGHT NIGHT The night when Geeks nationwide converge to prove how smart they really are will take place on Jan. 7 at the House of Son Tinh. There are eight categories with eight questions each and the night kicks off at 9pm. You know the rules by now, so get your maximum of five team members, come up with a name, reserve a table at Son Tinh Lounge Bar, study hard and show up. The winning team will net two bottles of Son Tinh Premium Liquor and a VND500,000 Son Tinh voucher. Son Tinh Lounge Bar is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3718 6377

32 | Word January 2014

HIP-HOPPERS HEEM AND DESPOT’S DOUBLE BILL

POETRY AND DANCE IN ONE SPACE Hanoi art lovers will have to chance to see an interesting event featuring legendary poet Duong Tuong and Butoh dancer Siu Pham at Manzi Art Space (14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh) this month. Organisers insist that this is an exploration of the two into the poetic and surreal world of word and physical movements. The event, supported by the Cultural Development and Exchange Fund, takes place from 8.30pm on Jan. 25. Entry is free and you can pre-register at manzihanoi@gmail.com before 3pm on Jan 22

Heems of Das Racist fame will be blazing CAMA ATK alongside New York City rapper Despot in a night which organisers claim will blow you away on Jan. 24. Das Racist, a hip hop group based in Brooklyn, New York City, were an internet sensation in 2008 with their comical rap tune, Combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell. Celebrated mixtapes followed, certifying their knack for humorous yet skill-laden performances and heavy-hitting tunes. Their debut album reached many “albums of the year” lists, including Rolling Stone and Spin magazines, and similar is to be expected of Heems’ heavily anticipated debut solo venture for Sony/Megaforce to be released this year. Despot is another NYC scene stalwart. He was signed to rapper El-P’s label Definitive Jux in 2004, and is co-owner of Santos Party House. Having been on the scene for over a decade he has collaborated and performed with the likes of Vampire Weekend, Killer Mike and Danny Brown. Tickets are VND150,000 or you can get a special deal to catch this one and South Rakkas (Jan. 23) together for VND200,000 (advance) at ticketbox.vn or CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung), cama-atk.com. The show is from 8pm till midnight

ECO

CHIC

tMetiseko makes your [travel] wardrobe and interior eco chic. Boutique : 71 Hàng Gai, Quận Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội www.metiseko.com

January 2014 Word | 33

hanoi what s on

DUDE BACK WITH VINYL IN HAND That man is back. The Swiss legend returns after his meltdown success at CAMA ATK last summer. The rare vinyl collector shares his world beats and once again takes us on a journey through his awesome vinyl collection. The Dude of Stratosphere (aka Jerome Doudet) is world-renowned for scouring the best music from 50s/60s/70s funk and afro through to pop, disco, and multitudes of unheard gems from across the globe. The night kicks off at 8pm and finishes up at midnight on Jan. 4. Tickets are priced at VND100,000 (in advance) from ticketbox.vn or CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung), cama-atk.com. For more info http://official.fm/etomdot

THE BROKEN CHAPTERS UNVEILED Manzi Art Space this month features The Broken Chapters by Hanoi-based visual artist Nguyen Tran Nam who is showcasing his new series of text installations, video art and paintings. Nam, considered one of the secondwave contemporary artists in Hanoi, features the video of a bullet ripping through the air, looped and muted, texts on executions, a home video of a father

and son’s bonding, a group photograph of young men, smiling and almost washed out, and two conversations between a father and his son. The works are rooted in the stories of his own life but reach out to tell the stories of others. The exhibition opens on Jan 6. at 6pm at Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. Entry is free

SHIMMY ON DOWN TO JAZZ NIGHT Responding to its regulars’ many requests for a casual place to relax and mingle with friends after a long day of work and some good quality jazz to take your mind off the midweek stress, Millenium (Café des Arts) is offering up a Jazz Night. Featuring Domino Jazz band on the venue’s stunning terrace available every second Thursday of the month where you can come along with your friends and join a fab night of music, food and wine from 7pm to 10pm with some top jazz acts lined up at the café. For reservations contact Gerard Gastel on 0904 134490 or check cafe-des-arts.com. Millenium is at 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

34 | Word January 2014

MADAKE’S COLLECTIVE SPECTACULAR The Nam Jam Collective Spectacular will take over Madake promising to bring something well… spectacular to the capital. The Nam Jam team will reunite on Jan. 17 with DJs BlipBlop and &ndy leading the way for a night of bouncy beats, general mischief and unrestrained shenanigans. Expect future classics of the house, disco,

techno and bass variety with plenty of genre bending throughout the night. Making an appearance will be some special guests. The night kicks off at 10pm, free entry. Madake is at 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665. Nam Jam Collective Podcast series can be found at djbreadman.com/namjam

hanoi Just In

SOUTH RAKKAS’ FILTHY SOUND SYSTEM

Nan ‘n Kebab Serving up Pakistani, Afghan, Turkish and Middle Eastern cuisine, Nan ‘n Kebab has opened up next to the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu, on the site formerly occupied by pho ga joint, Ba Chi Em. With a refit in tow, a lunchtime menu with dishes from a canteen stand is backed up by more extensive fare at night. A large range of kebabs and BBQ specials are on offer, as are biryanis, masala dishes, vegetarian curries and some of the best nan you will taste in the capital. Try the Kandari and Roghani nan for something a little more unusual. All the cuisine is Halal. Nan ‘n Kebab is at 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

Prepare yourself for an electro-dancehall workout in Mad Decent proportions at CAMA ATK, as the man who pioneered that genre stops by Hanoi for an awesome night of Jamaican sound clash culture fused with electronic beats. Jamaican-born and Florida resident, this is none other than South Rakkas, known for his hook-laden song structures, filthy sound system beats and killer rhythms. These winning elements have flung South Rakkas around the globe and garnered his reputation as one of the best in dancehall electro riddims, attracting remix-duty from artists such as M.I.A and Tricky, production

duties for Duran Duran, Justin Timberlake, Britney Spears, Shakira, and signing up with Diplo’s notorious Mad Decent label. He runs a label and production team in Florida. The Jan. 23 gig is part of his Asian tour which includes dates in China, Cambodia, India and Taiwan. For more info on the man facebook.com/ southrakkascrew. Tickets are VND150,000 or you can get a special deal to catch this gig and Heems & Despot (Jan. 24.) together for VND200,000 (advance) at ticketbox.vn or CAMA ATK (73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung), cama-atk.com. The show is from 8pm until midnight

BURGER KING OPENS AT NOI BAI Travellers passing through Hanoi’s Noi Bai Airport won’t miss out on a Whopper as the capital’s international airport has a new Burger King outlet. Located in the international departure area — which means you’ve got to go through immigration to get your fix — it is the first international fast food chain to be housed in the airport complex. American fast food giant BK now has six stores stationed at the nation’s airports. For more info click on facebook.com/ burgerkingvn.fp

Just Out After rumours, talk, speculation and more rumours, the controversy that has engulfed Zone 9 has finally come to the fore. According to reports from venue owners and the media-at-large, the entire area will be shut down on Jan. 15. This is the second time that Zone 9 has been officially closed. So, make sure you give it all your support over the next couple of weeks. Zone 9 is at 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

January 2014 Word | 35

hanoi

january 2014 The Dude is Back

hat’s rare vinyl worth if you have no-one to share it with? The Dude of Stratosphere has us, and he’ll be bringing his trunk of funk to ears that have been starved since his appearance last summer.

Nam Jam Spectacular

hen DJs BlipBlop and &ndy get together, you know to expect bouncy beats, future classics of house, disco and techno and shenanigans. What you don’t know is what else to expect, but it promises to be spectacular.

Jan. 4 — CAMA ATK

01 wednesday 02 thursday The Journey of Life. by Nguyen The Thien @ Chula. Runs until Feb. 20

Jan. 17 — Madake

13 Monday 14 Tuesday

03 friday Screening of Radio Stars. @ L’Espace, 8pm Skank the Tank. Reggae Soundsystem @ Cama ATK, 8pm to 11pm Friday night on the Terrace. @ The Press Club

04 saturday

The Dude (Switzerland). @Cama ATK, 8pm to 12pm

05 sunday 06 monday Opening of The Broken Chapters by Nguyen Tram Nam. @ Manzi, 6pm. Runs until Jan. 25 ‘Galette des Rois’ or ‘Twelth Night Cake’ night. @ Millenium, Cafe Des Arts

Hanoi Photography Workshop by Justin Mott. @ Xuan Dieu. Runs until 17 Jan.

15 Wednesday 16 Thursday Right or Wrong? Talk show with Giang Dang. @ Manzi, 7.30pm

17 Friday

07 tuesday

Geek Fight Night. @ The House of Son Tinh, from 9pm

08 wednesday 09 thursday

Piano Recital with Edna Stern. @ L’Espace, 8pm

10 friday Live Jazz. @Millenium, Cafe Des Arts, 6pm

Screening of Cœurs. @ L’Espace, 8pm Nam Jam Collective. @ Madake

11 saturday

18 Saturday

Guitar Recital with Tran Tuan An. @@ L’Espace, 8pm

12 sunday 36 | Word January 2014

19 Sunday

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Jan. 15 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

Tet Melting Pot Toasting Tet

et is coming, and your favourite bookworms have researched all the most creative ways to make you smile. Expect fortune telling, calligraphy, music, banh chung cake making, sticky rice sculptures and more.

ou’ll get your fill of rice wine in the coming week, but for now The Warehouse has some other varieties on sample, to be paired with some very un-Tet traditional appetisers.

Jan. 25 + 26 — Bookworm

20 Monday Tet Buffet. @ Sheraton Hotel. Runs until 9 Feb.

21 Tuesday 22 Wednesday

Jan. 31 — Millenium (Café des Arts)

27 Monday 28 Tuesday 29 Wednesday

23 Thursday 30 Thursday

South Rakkas (Florida, U.S.A). @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 12pm

24 Friday Heems (Das Racist) & Despot. @ Cama ATK, 8pm to 12pm

25 25Saturday saturday

Tet Eve. Lights and celebrations around the capital for welcoming in The Year of the Horse Vietnamese New Year Experience. @ Novotel Ha Long, 6.30 pm to 9.30pm

31 Friday

Butoh Dance and Poetry. @ Manzi, 8.30 pm The Bookworm and Hanoi Cooking Centre’s annual Tet Festival. @ Bookworm Too in Nghi Tam Village, 1pm

26 Sunday The Bookworm and Hanoi Cooking Centre’s annual Tet Festival. @ 44 Chau Long, 1pm

The Warehouse wine tasting. @ Millenium, Cafe Des Arts, 6pm

January 2014 Word | 37

in the papers The Best of the VietnameSe Press

HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

British Council unveils new English test

TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

British Council Vietnam has launched a new English test ‘Aptis’ which can be applied in businesses, universities and the educational system in general. Eldon Pascoe, director of professional and teacher development at British Council, said that this is a flexible test, with 15 solution packages that are dependent on the demands and strategies of each business. Aptis was released last year and brought

to Vietnam earlier this year with a number of businesses and universities showing interest in the programme, Pascoe added. Aptis is expected to be used widely like other popular tests such as IELTS, TOEFL and TOEIC. Test takers can access online tests via mobile phones, computers, tablets and other handy devices. The results will be given within 48 hours.

Chinese tourists head for Danang at Tet

Women’s Football Team in Cash Windfall Members of Vietnam’s women’s football team will be awarded a total of VND3.3 billion (US$158,700) for winning silver at the 27th Southeast Games in Myanmar in December. It is a double reward for the team, who lost 2-1 to Thailand in the final, as it was announced before the tournament that they would net VND1.5 billion (US$72,100) for a silver medal and VND2 billion for gold. The increase of the cash prize comes

38 | Word January 2014

after the men’s team failed to qualify for the semifinals, said acting chairman of the Vietnam Football Federation, Le Hung Dung. The men’s money is withdrawn and added to the prize fund for the women’s team. During the games, Vietnam won 73 gold, 86 silver and 86 bronze medals to finish third behind Thailand who bagged 107 golds and were 21 clear of second-placed Myanmar’s gold tally.

The central coastal city of Danang during Tet is expected to attract around 4,000 daily Chinese tourists, with most of them arriving on chartered flights. Danang now has 16 chartered flights from China, mainly from Guangzhou, Hangzhou, Chengdu, Xian and Shanghai. “[The numbers of] Chinese visitors coming to Danang are expected to rise further in the forthcoming Lunar New Year holiday,” said Tran Chi Cuong, deputy director of the city’s Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism. “From the 30th day of the 12th lunar month to the seventh day of the first lunar month, the city will serve about 4,000 travelers from China per day.” At present, most Chinese visitors arrive in Danang on chartered flights and stay at hotels and resorts of four to five-star standards for touring the city and destinations like Hoi An and Hue, while others are taken to the city by the cruise line StarCruises.

in the papers Ford Vietnam rolls out New Fiesta in Hai Duong Ford Vietnam unveiled the small car New Fiesta equipped with an award-winning 1.0L EcoBoost engine at its manufacturing facility in Hai Duong Province. The New Fiesta, a diamond white fourdoor sedan and five-door hatchback, will deliver fuel efficiency, contributing to the reduction of CO2, led by Fordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s patented new 1.0L EcoBoost engine. It also offers Ford Sync, Smart Keyless Entry and Ford Power Start button. The New Fiesta is now available in the local market with prices at VND659 million for 1.0L Fox Sport AT 5 doors, VND549 million for Fiesta Trend 1.5L MT 4 doors, VND579 million for Fiesta Trend 1.5L AT 5 doors and VND612 million for 1.5 L Sport AT 5 doors and Titanium AT 4 doors.

Travel Firms Team Up to Boost Sales Eight travel companies in Ho Chi Minh City have teamed up to facilitate operations and improve products, launch tours with the best prices, run common advertising programmes and create unanimous departure schedules to attract local and international travelers. The group, Vietnam Consortium Group, consists of VietJet Tours, Viking Travel, Asian Travel, OSC First, Saigon Travel, Lac Hong Voyage, Vietnam Travel and Viet A Au. Cao Pham Hang, director of VietJet Tours, the group leader, said that as each enterprise has its own advantages, they have decided to cooperate to reach better prices during negotiations with air carriers and other service providers. The group will also join hands in advertising. Customers selecting one of the eight companies will get the same tour prices, services and departure times. VietJet Tours is a rare enterprise in Ho Chi Minh City providing tours to Jeju Island in South Korea without the need for visas. Therefore, it has negotiated with partners in South Korea to give this benefit to other members of the group.

Disaster Fighting Fund To help localities finance the aftermath of natural disasters, local enterprises will probably have to pay between VND1 million and VND100 million each annually as part of their operational expenses. This is one of the contents in the draft of a decree on establishing and managing the natural disaster prevention and control fund presented for comment by the Ministry of Agriculture and Rural Development. For the disaster control fund, besides local companies as compulsory contributors, all citizens aged from 18 will also have to make contributions. The natural disaster control fund has suffered deficits over the past few years, said Nguyen Xuan Dieu, deputy director of the Directorate of Water Resources under the agriculture ministry. For example, in 2012, the storm and flood control fund of the southern province of Binh Duong collected less than VND10 billion while its spending was roughly VND20 billion, he cited. It has been suggested that the fund collection from large cities and provinces with huge numbers of enterprises and populations like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City could be transferred to other localities which are attacked by storms and floods annually to help them repair the aftermaths of such natural disasters. The nation has lost over VND50 trillion due to storms and floods in the past three years.

January 2014 Word | 39

Insider

The Province In-Between 042 / The islands 052 / arts of the city 080 / The Future of Vietnamese Dance 084 / The Caffeine Contests 088 / vegetarian hanoi 096 / beer club evolution 100 / mystery diner hanoi 104 / stReet snacker hanoi 105 / street snacker hcmc 106 / tusks & Dust 108 Photo by nick ross

The marina at Sentosa Cove in Singapore

40 | Word January 2014

January 2014 Word | 41

Ninh Thuan Special

The Province In-Between

42 | Word January 2014

n Vietnam’s south central coast, between Phan Thiet and Nha Trang, is a province of extraordinary beauty. Lush forests stretch along pristine coastline while sweeping desert landscapes give way to rare geological phenomena. Home to two national parks, much of the arid scenery and desert flora remains untouched. The culture and traditions of ethnic minorities are preserved in small, rural communities and in centuries-old ruins. Ethnic, religious and cultural diversity flourish while strangers still greet each other with smiles. As southern Vietnam’s poorest and least industrialised region, its unspoilt terrain and cultural history has hardly been a focal point in tourists’ guidebooks. But with recent development, the area around Phan Rang is emerging as an enticing destination, far enough off of the tourist trail to get a welcome respite, yet close enough for easy access. By meeting the people, exploring the places and experiencing the still undeniable charm of this untainted territory, we uncover the sights, sounds and spirit of the forgotten province, Ninh Thuan.

Words by Karen Hewell. Photos by Francis Roux

January 2014 Word | 43

Ninh Thuan Special

A World Away Nui Chua National Park is a new ecotourism destination in Vietnam. One luxurious getaway, Amanoi, has recently made its home on the edge of the park’s rolling hills, bringing with it something unexpected and new

44 | Word January 2014

“T

his one, over here.” A slight, smiling woman in crisp white linen reaches out for my arm and leads me past a pearly white sedan, my carry-on bag slung over her shoulder. I’ve just arrived at the airport in Nha Trang, and I thought I’d be beckoned to the nearest luxury four-door sedan. It is, after all, transport to a five-star resort. Instead, she leads me a few spaces back to a dusty gold SUV. It’s not exactly what I expected. “Do you need anything before we leave?” She climbs into the front seat and buckles her seatbelt before turning around to look at me. “It’s a long drive.” Over the two-hour journey, massive paved highways slowly give way to dusty, unpaved side roads and finally to narrow mountain pathways. Amanoi Resort — a collection of luxury villas in the picturesque Vinh Hy Bay — is tucked away within Nui Chua National Park, an isolated corner of Ninh Thuan that’s home to only a few scattered villages and desert. The vehicle

suddenly makes sense — conquering these uncomfortable bumps and shimmies past boulders and shrubs demands a lot more than two-wheel drive. Going by limousine would be madness.

Harmony and Escape When we arrive, I’m offered a drive in a small cart to my villa — number 22, on the other side of the resort — but after two hours in what felt like an off-road expedition, I decide to walk. The winding pathway snakes almost endlessly through dense foliage, and I can barely see my feet in the dim glow. I turn at the little stone marked 22 and walk up a narrow pathway to a small house hidden in a thicket of trees. It’s so alarmingly quiet that the only thing I hear is the wind and the click of the lock when I turn the key. Mine is just one of the 31 villas — or pavilions as they are referred to by the property — perched on the rolling hills in Amanoi, which are built into the landscape with almost undetectable simplicity. The

exterior blends so well with the natural energy of the environment that it blurs the lines between the manmade structure and the scenery. The architecture has a similar effect — matte wooden panels and a sloping ceiling are coupled with windows rather than walls. The window above my bathtub frames a breathtaking view of the entire bay. I really am nestled right into the wilderness. When I pull back the opaque woven curtains, I half expect to see desert wildlife darting through the trees. The air of seclusion owes not just to the architecture, but also to the location. Nui Chua National Park is a heavily protected natural environment that’s seen almost no urban development save some small minority communities and a few small neighbouring resorts. The area is devoid of almost any human disturbance, and what roads do run through the area are still largely unpaved. With few streets leading into the park and even fewer amenities, the national park is hardly a tourist hub. But with the absence of people in Nui Chua

comes one unique benefit for Amanoi — the absence of sound.

Silence is Golden An hour later — while I am sitting down for dinner in the restaurant with a stunning, unobstructed view of the bay cliffs — everyone seems keenly aware of the silence. The staff speaks in hushed voices, and the room deliberately void of music makes even my whispering feel like shouting. I can hear the clink of the spoon when I stir my coffee, and the tables are so widely spaced that even conversations between other guests dissolve into the breeze. The silence encompasses every element of Amanoi. Down to the electric carts buzzing at an almost inaudible level and the open-air buildings that are seemingly without echo, the serenity of the natural scenery seems like it informed every detail of the design. The effect is an experience so harmonious with the environment that, even when curled up under the 800-thread-count cotton sheets, it feels oddly like camping. The

sedative calmness and unexpected sense of communing with nature comes down to nothing more than the removal of excess.

Somewhere Else Entirely That night, I crack open a book on my back patio. The coffee machine buzzes while I dip my feet into the pool and cicadas hum in the trees. In this kind of serenity, it’s easy to forget the honking and blaring of the urban roads or the intrusive glare of streetlights. With the swaying trees and the dim glow from my villa windows, it’s easy to forget the city. Although my stay here is two nights, I’m already realising that I had forgotten what silence and seclusion felt like. Perhaps it owes more to the location — in a national park, it’s easy to achieve silence and isolation. But in a place where it would be easy to overpower natural beauty, Amanoi manages to keep things simple. Maybe that’s the goal. Luxury isn’t necessarily about thread counts and expensive food. Maybe it’s just this — peace and quiet.

January 2014 Word | 45

Ninh Thuan Special

Beyond the Bay With its crystal-clear waters and breathtaking views, Vinh Hy Bay boasts some of the most pristine coastline in Vietnam. Yet, located on the edge of Nui Chua National Park, one tiny fishing community continues life with the ebb and flow of the tide

“I

’ve been doing this for nearly 20 years — almost as long as I’ve used this.” 57-year-old Thanh holds a moth-eaten, floppy hat to his chest and nods toward a rusted old sewing machine. Bursts of wind tug at the net he is mending — it’s so strong that a few women nearby have already abandoned their work and are hunched behind a decrepit building. A few braver souls still have their noses inches from their own machines, feeding endless green fishing net through the humming shuttle. The ferocious gusts mean that no boats will go out tonight. Instead, the fishermen focus on preparing for the next outing. “If the weather is good, we go out every night after the sun sets. When the weather is like this, though, we have to stay on land and fix our nets,” he says, pulling his floppy hat over his head again before hunching back over his makeshift table.

Into the Night For this tiny community living on Vinh Hy Bay, these nets and boats are its life force. Fishermen venture into the sea every night at 3am, the high-powered fishing lights a lure for curious mackerel and tuna that come here each breeding season. The catches are shipped to cities throughout Vietnam, bringing in the capital to support the community’s fragile economy. Most families here have been fishing for generations. One younger man cutting away old fishing line from the net is wearing a pink

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baseball cap and rubber sandals. His name is Duc, and while only 24 now, he started in the trade when he was 18, later than other boys who normally start as young as 14 or 15. Like the others, he leads a nocturnal life, returning to shore just before the sunrise and sleeping during the day. The town is eerily quiet during the afternoon and begins to stir again only at dusk, when hands are busy preparing nets and boats for the evening’s outing.

Unsullied Simplicity Most of the boats that are leashed to the docks are fishing vessels, but a few newer ones are glass-bottom touring boats that float over the bay’s coral reefs. It’s one of the ecological features of Vinh Hy Bay that draws in increasing numbers of visitors. Since the tiny village is only a few minutes’ drive from a handful of newly completed luxury resorts and is just off the Nui Chua coastal road, the sleepy little town is becoming a stop on the ever-growing Ninh Thuan tourist trail. Regardless, the community remains calm and undeterred. The fishermen still rise as the sun falls and set sail under the cover of night. The little shops sell no souvenirs — only chewing gum and soda along with the odd facemask or magazine. Even with the recent upturn in tourism in Vinh Hy Bay, the fishermen in the village lead simple lives. Perhaps, in the coming years, it will lose its uncomplicated charm. For now, though, Vinh Hy Bay’s little fishing village is as placid and alluring as the bay water itself.

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Ninh Thuan Special

City of the People Phan Rang is not just your standard provincial capital, it is the centre of Vietnam’s Cham population, the people who once lorded over large swathes of Central Vietnam

ven though the twin city of Phan Rang-Thap Cham is technically the provincial capital of Ninh Thuan, it’s hard to believe a place where farmers steering herds of cattle down the street is the local nexus of industrialisation. But since Ninh Thuan remains the poorest and least developed province in southern Vietnam, perhaps the city’s rustic simplicity shouldn’t be a surprise.

Once part of the Champa kingdom, today’s Phan Rang stands on the ancient city of Panduranga. After an extended period of turbulence, in 1832 the area became part of modern day Vietnam. Although the city has recently shared in Vietnam’s economic development, woven into its urban fabric are distinct remnants of the days of yore. Dotted with amenities indistinctive from other metropolises in Vietnam, the outer townships within Phan Rang’s municipal

borders are a different story. Reached only by sparsely populated highways through endless fields, this area is home to Phan Rang’s most populous ethnic minority, the Cham, whose craft villages and centuriesold temples maintain the air of history and ancient culture that still permeates the city.

Culture as Artefact Since Phan Rang is hardly a stop on the tourist trail, the only souvenirs you are likely

Da Lat – Thap Cham Railway Built by the French to traverse lush, mountainous territory and jungle, the Da Lat – Thap Cham railway once connected the two cities of Da Lat and Thap Cham. However, the war years saw the line suffer continuous sabotage and destruction — it eventually fell out of use in the late 1960s. Unique for its zigzagging path and rack rail construction that anchored the train cars to the tracks over mountainous areas, the former cog railway passes through some

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of the most stunning scenery in Vietnam. A small section of the line between Da Lat and a small neighboring village of Trai Mat was recently refurbished and opened as a tourist attraction. It still operates today. Unfortunately the tracks that took the train up and down the steep inclines of the mountains were dismantled during the war. There is talk of rebuilding the line — most of its tunnels and embankments remain. But at present it is only talk.

Even further beyond the city’s metropolitan centre, the sleepy village of My Nghiep seems too isolated to be a craft village. Beyond the derelict homes and livestock paddocks, however, an entire building is dedicated to the weaving of traditional brocade fabrics. Although the geometric patterns and vivid colours would be familiar to anyone who’s roamed the souvenir shops of Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi, venturing past the front entrance reveals a handful of men and women working threads through traditional Cham weaving frames.

Monuments of History

to find are in small craft villages outside of the city centre. The pottery-making neighbourhood of Bau Truc — the oldest in Vietnam — still creates brownish red earthenware made of clay collected at the nearby Quao River. Most families in this small town have long-since given up the trade, but the few that continue are tucked away in houses-cum-showrooms that sell their wares to the trickles of tourists passing through.

Thanks to efforts to preserve dying art forms, in recent years the traditional handicrafts of Phan Rang have enjoyed a renaissance. However, the most obvious testaments to Cham history and culture are not something that can fit in a shopping bag. The majestic constructions that give the twinned city of Phan Rang its name — Thap Cham, meaning Cham Tower — immortalise the legacy of the Cham kingdom on hills that peer over the city below. The largest temple, Po Klong Garai, was built in veneration of its namesake, King Po Klaung Garai. The Cham believe that after the king’s death, he became a god and protector of the people on earth. Even now, centuries after its construction, the pungent sweetness of incense still wafts through the temple’s three towers, paying homage to the ancient king. Dozens of other temples dot the skyline of Thap Cham, most constructed with the red brick and thin mortar lines that are iconic to Cham ruins. Some have intricate sculptures in the likeness of the Hindu goddess Shiva protecting their gateways — a remnant of the Hindu roots of Cham culture before the 15th century. And although these majestic structures hark back to the Cham people’s polytheistic past, their descendants have taken on a spiritual diversity that adds to the region’s cultural mosaic.

Kate Festival The Kate Festival, most commonly held in late October to early November, takes place annually throughout Ninh Thuan. Thousands of ethnic Cham and Raglai people — considered the youngest ‘relatives’ of the ancient Cham kingdom — descend upon the country’s Cham Temples to celebrate and commemorate

the ancient Champa kings. Through sacrifices of food, clothing and livestock — to this day, the festival still includes the sacrifices of a live cow — the Kate Festival follows the oldest form of Cham spiritual belief while preserving the traditional dance, costumes and songs of the resident ethnic groups of Ninh Thuan.

The Spiritual Centre (s) Most of Phan Rang’s Cham population now practice variations of Islam, Hinduism and Buddhism, and often reside in distinct religious centres that cluster around the city’s outer limits. A powerful revival of Islam came with the return of Cham people living in predominantly Muslim countries like Malaysia. The people of a more syncretic form of Islam — which combines Islamic beliefs with Cham traditions like matriarchy and ancestral veneration — continue to live alongside what the locals refer to as “new” Muslims. The community of Ninh Phuoc District to the south of Phan Rang is home to two mosques, one the largest in Vietnam. Here, both Cham and ethnically Vietnamese Muslims uphold the pillars of faith. Arabic inscriptions above the doors of private homes and locals roaming the dusty neighborhood alleyways in Islamic dress are a testament to the virtually undisturbed spirituality that lingers in this small community.

An Ageless City Phan Rang may not be a marvel of modernity and development, but it doesn’t have to be. Still unmarred by the fervent industrialisation that has stripped so many cities of their identity, Phan Rang manages to preserve the monuments and livelihoods that speak of its ancient past. With the city’s unabashed embrace of diversity, visitors to Phan Rang can still experience a palpable history that lingers in the ancient bricks of the Cham temples and the dexterous hands of craftspeople. For now, the city of Phan Rang offers a glimpse into the colourful past of this country — a characteristic that is disappearing with each passing year. Who knows for how long Phan Rang will hold on to its simple, untainted charm.

Preserving a History While the Cham temples remain a steadfast monument to Cham culture throughout Ninh Thuan, Cham culture, language and customs are slowly being swept away. One group of researchers and activists, led by university lecturer and ethnic Cham Truong Van Mon, are working to preserve Cham culture through the education of customs, handicrafts and the Cham language throughout Vietnam. To find more information on their upcoming projects and ways to support the organisation, visit chamunesco.com.

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Ninh Thuan Special

Destination Ninh Thuan Nui Chua National Park and Vinh Hy Bay Ninh Hai Regular buses and coaches run from Phan Rang to Nui Chua National Park, which encompasses a wide, mountainous promontory with a semi-arid climate, lending to its desert-like foliage alongside forest trees. Some sections of coastline are sites for sea turtle breeding, and the marine park just off-shore is home to beautifully intact coral reefs.

Amanoi Resort Vinh Hy Bay, Ninh Hai amanresorts.com/amanoi/resort A contemporary beachside resort spa named for the Sanskrit-derived word for ‘peace’ and the Vietnamese word noi meaning ‘place’, Amanoi is situated on a white-sand beach overlooking spectacular Vinh Hy Bay. Panoramic views mixed with the aesthetics of locally-inspired luxury make this one of the most unique and well-appointed resorts in Vietnam. Even if you’re not staying there, the restaurant is a must-visit if you can brave the bad roads.

Po Klong Garai Temple Bac Ai, Do Vinh, Thap Cham The older of the two Ninh Thuan Cham temples, Po Klong Garai temple is located on a lush hill in Bac Ai. The temple consists of three towers — a main tower, gate tower and a longer tower with a saddle-shaped roof. The site was built to pay homage to the Champa king Po Klaung Garai in the 13th century. From the hilltop it stands on, visitors can see stunning views of the city and countryside below.

Po Ro Me Temple Hau Sanh, Ninh Phuoc Like its cousin temple, the Po Ro Me Cham

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tower is dedicated not to a Hindu diety, but to King Po Rome. Built in the 17th century, Po Ro Me is one of the last Cham temples constructed, and is less intricate and delicately engineered than other Cham temples. The temple is located south of Phan Rang, and is perched atop a hill that boasts stunning views of the area below.

My Nghiep Fabric Village My Nghiep, Ninh Phuoc Located 10km south of central Phan Rang off Highway 1A and also known as Lang Cham Irahani, the entrance to the sleepy village of My Nghiep is guarded by an archway that leads to a long, unpaved road. Finding it can be difficult without help — enlisting the aid of a xe om makes it easier. My Nghiep seems sleepy enough, but venture further in and you will find a Cham-inspired building that houses the local fabric cooperative.

Bau Truc Pottery Village Phuoc Dan, Ninh Phuoc Bau Truc Pottery Village is tucked within the Phuoc Dan, not far from My Nghiep, and is the oldest of its kind in Vietnam. Most of the pottery-making homes are located on the main village road and do not have marked signs, so keep an eye out for the little showrooms hiding under the shade.

Ca Na Beach Ca Na, West of Highway 1A Ca Na not only has the pristine beaches that combine the beauty of white sand, rocky cliffs and lush forests, but also the promontories and natural geography benefit from Ninh Thuan’s year-round mild and cool weather. A few resorts line the coast, and if you wake up early enough, you might see local fisherman hauling in their morning catch. Known for its seafood products including nuoc mam (fish sauce).

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When Madonna sang La Isla Bonita — meaning ‘the beautiful island’ in Spanish — she sang of a place of her dreams, a place where she longed to be. San Pedro isn’t a real island, but it didn’t matter, the yearning was there. Artists and bands of yesteryear — Jethro Tull, Elton John, Dolly Parton, Barbara Streisand, The Bee Gees, Blondie, Bob Marley, Tony Bennett, Jimmy Buffet, XTC and even Weezer — have all sung about islands, have all expressed that odd desire that human beings have to be on a piece of land surrounded by a body of water. It’s romantic, exotic, endearing — there is something about the geographical and metaphysical nature of islands that drives the imagination. Over the next few pages we’ve let our imagination go on overdrive. By boat, plane, bridge and ferry we’ve reached islands in Vietnam, The Philippines and Singapore. In every instance we’ve come back again. Although on the odd occasion or five, it’s been a close call.

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January 2014 Word | 53 Photo by Ed Weinberg

Beyond Phu Quoc The south Vietnamese coast is home to more islands than just Phu Quoc, Ed Weinberg discovers, and a whole lot of water

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ne of the pleasures of working for a magazine is a flexible definition of ‘holidays’. When my friend Selena proposed a quick weekend trip to Phu Quoc, my mental wheels started turning. Diligently, I asked the boss if “any resorts need checking out”. Nick, ever the quick thinker, told me there was, as well as a guesthouse on an untouristed island archipelago not far from my destination. And that, dear reader, is how one gets roped into 12 hours of boat travel in a four day span, surrounded by the crashing 10-foot waves that guard such treasures. The island extension to our trip is called Nam Du, and no-one’s ever heard of it. There’s good reason for that — as it turns out it’s not just a quick side trip from Phu Quoc, but three hours from Rach Gia over open

seas, which would toss our 200-passenger ferry boat from swell to towering, whiteflecked swell. It’s a logistical adventure as well, ably handled by Hanh and Hung at Terraverde Travel Vietnam, who devise an itinerary that will take us through Phu Quoc, Rach Gia, Nam Du and Rach Gia again over the four nights of our trip. As night turns into endless day, we’ll appreciate how their meticulous planning allows for lighthouse sunrises and beach bonfires. As Vu Minh Anh, the founder of Terraverde, says, “Such a tour lives from spontaneity.” Time and again, we find ourselves in the right place, at the right time.

A Phu Quoc Fling

We keep with the original plan, even though it will only be for 24 hours. And those 24

hours mark my first in Phu Quoc, probably Vietnam’s most developed island escape and a good bar to set against the survivalist rigours of our stint in Nam Du. On our way to Mango Bay Resort, we encounter the first signs that Phu Quoc isn’t as developed as our simplistic dichotomising led us to believe. A rough dirt road springs off the main two-lane road, cut into trenches by years of rain and traffic. It’s felt all the more violently in the jump seat of a 15-passenger van. This same road will feel all the more ragged under the wheels of our rented Honda Hayate hours later, led in loops by the machinations of a dying smartphone. It’s noon when we first arrive at Mango Bay, a well-established eco resort on the less-developed northwest end of Phu Quoc. An idyllic beach getaway started by

some longtime Saigon expats, it wraps its passions into the experience. On the way to reception, we pass an indigenous flower patch, a medicinal plants garden and a butterfly reliquary. In this last, we see the pinned remains of a butterfly species native to Phu Quoc, classified on a research trip commissioned by Wildlife At Risk, one of Mango Bay’s guiding missions. We eat a late breakfast, seafood on pizza, seafood in a tortilla shell enclosed salad. As we wait for our room to be ready, we look out to the sea, as many of our fellow diners are doing. It feels like we could do this all day, and indeed, that’s not an uncommon activity here. “Tourists that stay three days here, they’ve done two weeks of Vietnam, they’re absolutely exhausted,” says Mango Bay GM Ronan Lebihan. “They want the beach, the

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massage and the food.” But we only have 24 hours in Phu Quoc, and Selena wants to show me the sights. We rent out the Hayate automatic that will later skitter from unpaved groove to unpaved groove (“He lives in Saigon,” Selena says, when the guy renting it — VND200,000 for the day — tells us to take it slow). There’s this mythical Vung Bau Beach in Selena’s mind, a nearly uninhabited half-moon of coastline, site of a years-past trip. We curl up the coast, in the general direction.

The Night Market

Sunset has come and gone, along with the children snacking on watermelon in the middle of the road, the rice wine toasts in exchange for pictures, the incongruous ships being built in wooded clearings. We follow the pavement back down the pristine coast, ending in the dirt road disconnect that keeps the town proper from encroaching on paradise beach. Following an out-of-touch GPS path, we hop sidewalk bumps next to broken roads and swerve through blind alleys to the famous night market, one of Phu Quoc’s principal attractions. Here the resort crowd and the locals looking for a night out converge over plates of the freshest, most genetically well-endowed catch the salt water has to offer. Tourists thrill to the plucking of spiny lobsters from murky fish tanks, their ancient antennae slowly twirling in the crisp night air. There’s a tangible electricity about the place, even when the electricity goes out for a few moonlit minutes. We prowl the promenade for a good 20 minutes, until an excited waitress lays a karate chop in our path. She’s Phuong — who Selena met last trip. Of course we’re eating at her stall, the excellent Quan Mien Trung (23 Cho Den Dinh Cau, Duong Dang). We order oversized snails, mussels, squid and sea urchins. I had no idea sea urchins were edible, but they are, and medium delicious at that. A couple of stalls further down is the delightful Banana Pancake, with a googlyeyed banana mascot painted on the side of the cart saying, “Please don’t peel me… I want to live.” I request him peeled, scalded with Nutella and entombed in a fluffy crepe batter. I poke him with little toothpicks, as Selena buys enough tourist tat to never have to go to Ben Thanh Market again.

Great Barrier Reef The Coral Sea, Australia With over 2,900 individual reefs and 900 islands stretching on for 2,600km, the Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system, as well as its biggest structure made

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The Fulcrum

The next day we take the high-powered Superdong ferry out of Phu Quoc, cruising along to the subtitled, halfway-interrupted chop-socky of Shanghai Noon. Three hours later and in we’re in Rach Gia, the overlooked provincial capital of 220,000 where we are to spend two of our next three nights. Arriving at the workmanlike Hong Nhung Hotel (78 Ton Duc Thang, Vinh Lac), we watch the sunset fall over a seaside restaurant preparing for a party. Hanoian love songs issue from their PA: “This is miracle love, don’t forget it / Before, I was very much in love…” The sun hangs lazily over a still sea, moving as a sheet towards the seawall, ripple patterns unchanging like an optical

by living organisms. And there are even more living organisms hanging out on the reef’s islands, with a tourism industry that brings in over AU$3 billion (VND57 trillion) a year. Unfortunately, that amount doesn’t outweigh the potential profits of a recently

illusion. A woman carts pinwheels and balloons down the street, and everything is slow. The reverie lasts until someone turns on the techno.

Adventure!

By mid-morning on the third day, we’re again in the clutches of a bucolic, colicy sea, 10-foot waves erupting in our ferry’s wake. It’s a full day before I really gain an appreciation of good captaining, but I’m already well aware of its importance. And with a thud we arrive on the main, 5,000-inhabitant island of Nam Du’s 21-island archipelago. We pack out onto a crowded dock leading to a dusty path, reaching into the mountainous recesses of the island.

green-lit coal port expansion just 50km from the heart of the reef, which will involve dredging 3 million cubic metres of seabed — the spoils to be dumped in the reef’s World Heritage Area.

me about all the stories of whales saving humans, how they’re viewed as protective and beneficent gods. When I’m surprised by this idea, she says, “But westerners believe the same thing, what about Free Willy?”

The Slow Life

We take to the sea, on Vu’s 20-passenger speedboat. We fish for an hour before sunset, before dropping anchor on a threehomestead beach. We make the first bonfire I’ve seen in Vietnam. It’s all palm fronds, and combusts quickly. Next to it our 11-fish catch is prepared, to be placed on our plastic tables next to crabs, huge sea prawns and a delicacy of grasshopper and lemongrass. We eat alongside some men visiting from the other islands. Soon a guitar’s picked up and beers are dispensed, and our voices echo into the night. It’s complete blackness except for the celestial lights and the lit orbs of squidhunting vessels, bobbing alongside 20 other ships overnighting in the cove we face out on. And I realise that this is what ‘undeveloped’ means — not the white sand fantasy of resort brochures. In this part of the world it means that people are struggling to get by.

Sunrise

We’re greeted by a local guide, Vu, who escorts us to a waiting room — teacups down — near the island’s security office and “checks us in”. We don’t flip the teacups. Soon he retrieves us and we follow him up the alley-like main street, past the island’s under-construction second guesthouse (the first with air-con!), to his aunt’s house where lunch awaits.

Island Superstitions

At Vu’s aunt’s house, we eat fresh fish and canh cua (sour soup, a fish-filled staple of our trip) on the living room floor. After we devour the top half of the fish, Hung notices my greedy glances at the fish’s underside. He deftly removes the fish’s spine to reveal its bottom half. “We never flip the fish,” he

Con Dao Islands Vietnam The Con Dao Islands, situated just off the southern coast of Vietnam, owe their fame not to sunny beaches, palm trees and hammocks, but a rather grisly past. During

says, “it’s too much like a boat flipping.” I soon learn other superstitions, like: — Never cut off a fish’s mouth, or else the others may never bite again. — You can tell river boats from sea boats by the presence of painted eyes. Vietnamese people are somehow more scared of the creepy crawlies in rivers than those in the sea, and the eyes make their wearers more forbidding than any 10-metre crocodile. — Not really a superstition, but many coastal peoples venerate whales, and enshrine their remains. On our trip to one of the two other islands we would visit, we see one of these temples, with the whale’s jawbones impressively mounted and painted silver. I ask how this evolved, and Selena tells

the French colonial era, the largest island in the Con Dao archipelago was home to Con Dao prison, a horrific penal facility that housed Vietnamese nationalists. During the American War, it was turned over to southern forces and used for the same

We wake up in time for sunrise, breaknecking over the furrowed mud track of the soon-to-be island ring road. About 20 minutes in, a steam shovel operator sleeps behind the wheel. We wake him, and slowly, cathartically, he breathes diesel into the engine and treads backwards, opening a narrow path. 10 minutes later and we’re at the lighthouse. Only two of us are allowed in at a time, and we race up four flights of stairs, in time to see the cloud cover brightening a little. But underneath is what we’ve really come to see — the island spreading its green toes, its trees swaying in the wind. And even further off, tiny ships bob on seas so violent that our departure later on is questioned. No-one stirs until the seas have found their answer. For more information on Mango Bay Resort in Phu Quoc, check mangobayphuquoc.com To find out more about the individually tailored, off-beat trips that Terraverde offers, check terraverdetravel.com

purpose. Now, reports of haunting and supernatural activity plague Con Son Island — the site of the prison — and have even been featured on paranormal TV shows like National Geographic Asia’s I Wouldn’t Go In There.

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The Other Side of Halong Bay Van Don Island might be near the UNESCO World Heritage Site, but limestone karst is the only thing they have in common. Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by Nick Ross

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e met Ba Tam at a village market between Halong City and Van Don Island. We’d stopped to buy a bushel of bananas and found her by the side of the road, finishing her morning shopping. When we offered her a ride, she immediately accepted. Still nimble at 80-something, she hopped into the backseat weighed down with plastic bags full of eggs and cabbage. “Foreigners are so big and beautiful,” she cooed in Vietnamese, the crooked grin never leaving her face. “Where are you from?” Most visitors see Van Don only as a jumping-off point for smaller islands like Co To and Quan Lan. But the large island, connected to the mainland by a bridge built in 2005, has its own rustic charm. After dropping Ba Tam off at her house, we headed to Cai Rong Port, where fishermen were hauling in crateloads of black anchovies (ca com). So fresh their eyes still glisten, large quantities of the silver fish are trucked to nearby factories and fermented

into Vietnam’s signature condiment, nuoc mam. We followed the anchovies to Cai Rong Fish Sauce Factory — or more accurately, we followed the xe om driver who offered to show us the way for VND20,000. Bumping down dirt roads, we skirted dangling power lines and the odd napping buffalo to arrive at a clearing saturated with the rich smell of nuoc mam. The aroma was less fishy than ripe and sweet, like Roquefort at its delicate peak. While it’s intriguing to see how fish sauce is produced, this isn’t exactly a tourist destination. Pouring liquid into the vats that stretched across the clearing in long rows, workers in conical straw hats eyed us curiously. “Maybe they’re French?” one said to her companion. Quyen, who took over the factory from the government in 2000, guided us down the neat rows. Clad in suit trousers and sneakers, he seemed dressed half for a business meeting and half for the reality of manufacturing fermented fish. As he

Santorini

known for its beauty, seen in the Cyclades islands-style, low-lying cubical houses made of local stone and whitewashed, then painted with sea-blue trim. It routinely wins ‘best island roundups’ for its lava-coloured red, white and black sand beaches, and its

The Aegean Sea, Greece About 200km south of the Greek mainland, Santorini was a centre of ancient Minoan civilisation until the volcano that formed the island destroyed 500sqkm of it. It’s

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explained the lengthy process of making nuoc mam, he gestured with an enormous square ring. When it comes to fish sauce, there’s no such thing as instant gratification. Anchovies caught in the bay spend a year soaking up salt in a giant cement basin; the resulting brew then rests in ceramic vats for a second year. The company churns out 30,000 litres per month, enough to accompany boatloads of bun cha, com tam and banh cuon. We picked up a bottle as a souvenir on our way out. “When you go home, your clothes will smell terrible,” the woman who sold it to us remarked cheerily.

The Bay

Poking around behind the factory, we found a stretch of beach, deserted except for a sole fishing boat harvesting ca com. If you don’t mind the marine smell, it’s an ideal spot to get a panoramic look at Bai Tu Long Bay and its signature limestone karst cliffs without a single whitewashed tourist junk to mar the view.

award-winning viticulture. But another source of notoriety has cropped up in the past decades. In its pre-eruption shape and ancient artistic traditions, it strongly resembles Plato’s description of the lost city of Atlantis.

“If you don’t mind the marine smell, it’s an ideal spot to get a panoramic look at Bai Tu Long Bay and its signature limestone karst cliffs without a single whitewashed tourist junk to mar the view” We drove along the bay to look for a resort where one of us had eaten lunch a few years before, but alas, it was now closed. Further on we found Thien Vien Truc Lam, a temple perched on the hillside overlooking the water. Built in 2007 to replace an older pagoda, it was deserted. The only person around was devotee Thuong Hanh, wearing a traditional hair kerchief and loose brown garments. Sweeping a straw mat, she said she’d moved here from Vung Tau, where she grew up in a devout Buddhist family. I expressed incredulity. Surely the southern beaches were better? Hanh smiled. “This is such a beautiful place. I stayed here because I felt drawn to it.” It was time to set foot on the water. Nha

Hang Lam Chieu, a restaurant that specialises in local seafood, floats several metres out from shore. Stepping onto a few planks held together by nails, we were ferried over to the restaurant, where plastic basins greeted us with the morning’s catch. The seafood here is so fresh it requires little cooking, sometimes none at all. Raw shrimp came painstakingly sliced into sashimi-thin strips, which we dipped in lemon sauce and wasabi, before rolling in rice paper along with carrot, pineapple and ginger. Whole squid was cooked briefly with lemongrass and birds’ eye chillis; smaller pieces were added to a heaping pile of fried rice. One piece of advice: if you get the stir-fried octopus, ask for the innards to be removed.

Île Sainte-Hélène

1967 World’s Fair by that champion of the icosahedron, R. Buckminster Fuller. This is the most iconic of Montréal’s tributes to a futurepast, with a few more corrugated sculptures sprinkled among the former fairgrounds. But Montréal has struck a curious compromise

Saint Lawrence River, Montréal, Canada Venturing out of Montréal’s downtown to the city islands — nowadays most famous for their casino and theme park — you’ll see a proud, weird geodesic dome, built for the

Information Van Don Island is a fivehour drive from Hanoi. The bridge to the island is located at Cua Ong, 35km further on from Halong Bay. A number of ferry operators run boats from Cai Rong Port on Van Don to Quan Lan and Co To islands. They leave twice a day, from 7am to 9am and after lunch from 1pm to 3pm. If you wish to go to Co To or Quan Lan for the day, you will need to get the early ferry. Otherwise you will have to stay overnight.

with time on the rest of Île Sainte-Hélène, still drawing in the crowds to its Six Flagsadopted theme park, snowboarding park, annual fireworks competition and even the original Piknic Elektronic — all while maintaining a 1970s-type vibe.

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Fantasy Island Games creator Curtis Norris spent six months isolated on an island in northern Vietnam. But why? Derek Milroy finds out. Photos by Nguyen Long Hung

any people fantasise about life on a deserted island. The palm trees swaying in the wind, the sand, the deep blue sea, adventure, a simple life all their own. For most of us, it’s just that — a dream. How many actually have the balls to go for it? Curtis Norris did. He said he wanted to get away and he meant it. The American didn’t want to go to any old beach, though, he wanted complete isolation. He found it in Bai Tu Long, on the far side of Halong Bay.

Going Native

After 13 years in Vietnam he felt “flat”. He knew the fault didn’t lie with the location; it lay at his own Ho Chi Minh City door. He had lost his passion, not just for his adopted home but also for his job. Some in his situation would have contented themselves with a little tweak, but Curtis knew if he was going to make a change, he had to go all the way. “Going Robinson Crusoe on a desert island is, I think, one of those archetypal fantasies we carry around with us from boyhood,” he says. “I had toyed with the idea but didn’t act on the impulse, falling instead into the easy routine of city life. The catalyst came last year, when I had just finished a long and often difficult project — Art of Darkness for the iPad — and I was feeling both creatively and spiritually flat. I had to shake things up, reignite my spirit and rekindle my love affair with the country.” Curtis lacked the means and connections to embrace this fantasy — but a cold call by email helped with that. “The first person I floated the idea by was the chairman of VTC Online, a man I had never met or emailed before,” Curtis tells. “I sent him a brief proposal to run a year-long creative experiment on an island to see what happened. The focus, naturally, would be on game design. “I received a reply the same day, a brief,

two-line message — ‘Love the idea, and we have an island!’ Two weeks later, the project was underway.” Curtis soon headed north to Halong Bay, setting out at midnight during a full moon for the island that would be his home for months to come. “Everywhere there was a profound stillness — on the water, in the misty sky and from the islands themselves,” he recalls. “I felt very small and vulnerable as we wound our way through the watery maze, the islands towering over us like not-quite-sleeping giants. It was humbling, unnerving, and completely captivating.” He was headed to a privately-owned island, with a crew stationed there in case

“He knew, coming to the north, he would be facing four seasons — but on the island there were a hundred” of emergencies. The island was part of an island chain, connected by a small dyke road enclosing a 10km lagoon. “At one end,” he says, “on a small picturesque rock of an island, there was a two-room structure that housed a variable crew of men, numbering from two to 10 at any given time, who maintained the dyke gates, and the 36km of road connecting the islands. This bunkhouse had solar power for lighting at night and water piped into a cistern from a creek on another island. Food was cooked over a fire in an adjoining hut.” Chickens, geese, pigs and about 20 dogs completed the population. Despite its rustic quality, Curtis would refer to his visits to the camp as “going to the city”. The crew thought he was crazy but they welcomed him with “great generosity and care”. For his part, he feels that he’s never met such capable people in his life. They seemed to

know everything about every plant and animal on land and sea.

Me and Poor Crusoe

So was he really alone with the crew so close by? His island, where he and the crew built his cabin, was 5km long and 2km wide. It was located 2km from where the crew was based. He was the only person living on his island, so technically, it was deserted — although there were plenty of poisonous green tree vipers to keep him company. That chilling aspect stopped him from building a home in their territory. “Building a shelter in the jungle would have been inadvisable for many reasons,” Curtis explains. “Level spots were nonexistent on the steep slopes, the jungle was incredibly dense, and there was the ever-present threat of poisonous snakes. Fortunately, there was an old quarry, left over from the road construction.” So the old quarry became home. “It was an intriguing combination of nature and architecture,” he says, “with high cliffs and tiered levels, giving it the aura of castle ruins. I referred to it as The Sanctuary. For my cabin, I chose a spot about four storeys above the shore, with a commanding view of the surrounding sea and other islands. “Moonlight and breezes entered through the gaps of the wall planks, and there was always a new guest from the jungle — a frog, a mouse, a beetle. Even the trees that made up the frame of the cabin continued to sprout new leaves and branches inside the house. I was part of nature for the first time.”

The Game and Coconuts is Plentiful

On the island, Curtis never had a typical day. The island was constantly changing, and the games creator was changing with it. He knew, coming to the north, he would be facing four seasons — but on the island there were a hundred. Every day he would walk around and spot some species of plant or animal either blossoming into its season or fading from it,

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changing the face of each day. “Even though I might hike the same trail a hundred times, it was always a different experience,” he says. “The sky and sea, too, were constantly changing. This was all very subtle at first, but with constant exposure, the differences day to day became dramatically obvious. The amount of life and change there took my breath away.” He still had to have a daily routine. He’d wake up at dawn, hurriedly putting on some warm clothes — especially during winter, where temperatures often fell below 10oC. He would grab his table and chair out to the edge of one of the cliffs of the quarry to enjoy the view. He had all the office tools he needed. A cup of hot coffee and his laptop were all that was required to get some writing done for a few hours, until it got too hot. His daily life was focused on fire and water. To get fresh water, Curtis had to take two 10-litre jugs to a creek half a mile away. He had to filter the creek water through layers of cloth and — once boiled on a fire

Gorgona Island Colombia At Colombia’s Gorgona Island National Park you’ll find a curious counterpoint to Con Dao and Alcatraz — a brutal former penal colony, built in the model of Nazi

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made of dead wood, which he spent an hour per day collecting and chopping — it was good to go. “It had a fresh, sweet taste,” he says. “18 hours a day I was outdoors, in the elements,” he says. “What you come to realise is that these elements are your element. I was reminded that I am an animal in, not separate from, nature — a thinking, creative, spiritual animal in an amazing country, on a miraculous planet.”

Lord of Flies with Cocktails in His Conch Shell

A man alone normally has no choice but to embrace his thoughts, and in this complete isolation Curtis did so, over the course of eight to 12 miles most days. He would walk along the road and paths that skirted the connected chain of islands, usually accompanied by a group of dogs who inspired him with their endless energy and curiosity. To head inland he had to blaze his own trails through the jungle with a machete. It

concentration camps, now covered in dense vegetation. For the same reasons that it was once an inescapable place of exile it is now a tourist magnet, and a limited 80 people at a time can avoid the three species of venomous snake native to the island. In

was slow, arduous work, with many hazards such as “razor sharp grasses, shark-toothed plants and endless vines” to trip him up. He had to be patient and cautious before he finally got the hang of it, but was rewarded with many views and discoveries that could not be experienced from the shore. “Whenever I felt exceptionally reckless I would do some hair-raising rock climbing in order to go swim in a secret tidal lake,” he adds. “That was probably the most foolish thing I did, but also the most rewarding.” In the hot weather he mainly exercised by swimming and fishing in the bay. He would often visit the crew and try to give them a helping hand. If rich men from the mainland came to fish, there would be a feast and Curtis would make friends. He never had to want for food. His cabin was supplied with ‘cowboy cuisine’ — plenty of beans, coffee, and tobacco. He also ate with the crew at the base, feasting on free-range chickens, ducks, geese, pigs and seafood such as shrimp, crabs, oysters and mussels.

addition, it’s got coral reefs and passing humpback whales offshore, and tropical jungle filled with capuchins, sloths, lizards and ‘honeycreepers’.

“Since returning to the city, I live more simply and with more contentment. I view the city not as madness, but as the same burgeoning of life that I left on the island”

“Man we ate like kings,” he says. “Apart from the most expensive fish of every description, all fresh and free, there were the more exotic dishes involving frogs, songbirds, snakes and even squirrel, washed down with hornet-infused rice wine. [It was amazing] how these guys could turn out five-star dishes over a campfire.”

Don’t Rescue Me, No No

There was no internet or 3G access, but Curtis had an intermittent cell phone signal, so if anything happened to him he could message for help. He regularly texted friends to inform

Lamu Kenya The oldest continuously inhabited town in Kenya, the cultural crossroads of Lamu Island became home to Portugesee, Turks, Omani, Germans and British after being

them of some of the magical things that were happening to him. However, with no other technological distractions he says he was constantly aware of his own thoughts. “My mind started to fold back on itself, creating new and interesting wrinkles. It’s amazing to realise how passive our minds can become under constant external input. Take that away and the mind becomes the only actor — which is uncomfortable at first, but it gradually evolves to a higher level of creativity.” His adventure was cut short, though, when VTC Online’s cutbacks resulted in Curtis’s project becoming a casualty. It was

time to head back to the city, in many ways a different man. The city he now sees is different as well, transformed by his changed perspective. “I was looking forward to another six months,” he says, “but I was excited to return to my friends in Saigon and re-enter society with the new energy and outlook I had gained on the island. I felt I was returning to blaze new trails rather than fall back into old ruts. “Since returning to the city, I live more simply and with more contentment. I view the city not as madness, but as the same burgeoning of life that I left on the island.”

founded by Swahili in 1370. That mix of traditions shows up in the rich, crosscontinental architecture and infrastructure that earned Lamu Old Town a ranking as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. And though its tourism emphasis is on

the past, its Indian Ocean access continues to make it strategically valuable. In fact, China has undertaken feasibility studies on transforming Lamu into the largest port in East Africa, part of its String of Pearls strategic influence strategy.

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Information G etting T here

The most direct route from Central Saigon is to follow Nguyen Tat Thanh 17km through District 4, District 7 and Nha Be until you get to Binh Khanh ferry. On the other side is Can Gio and the highway crossing the islands. All the places worth visiting here are well signposted. Alternatively, take Nguyen Huu Tho out of Phu My Hung towards Nha Be. The road turns into Nguyen Van Tao. Just before the river at the end, turn left opposite the small bus station in Hiep Phuoc and follow the dirt track 5km to Ben Do ferry. The ferry takes you to Can Gio.

V am S at E cological N ature R eserve

Xa Ly Nhon, Can Gio, Tel: (08) 3889 4008 vamsat.com.vn Take the turning at Nga Ba Ly Nhon off the main highway. Vam Sat is 21km. Boat rides cost anything from VND75,000 to VND375,000 per person depending on how many people share a boat. A speedboat or motorised canoe is slightly more expensive.

P huong N am P earl R esort

Dong Hoa Beach, Long Hoa, Can Gio, Tel: (08) 3874 3404 phuongnampearlresort.com The only privately owned resort of any note on the islands. Has a saltwater lake, a pier and eating, drinking and sports facilities. Runs tours into the mangroves. The not-so-wellappointed Tieng Song Resort just next door is a great spot to relax over a beer or a meal.

C an T hanh T own

Originally settled by Chinese and home to a temple dating from 1805, the beach area, the remains of a whale worshipped as a deity, the market and the Cao Dai Temple are the biggest attractions here. Ask nicely and the staff at the temple will show you around. The beach promenade area is next to the wellsignposted Can Gio Resort, a governmentrun property that was the first upscale resort in Can Gio.

M onkey I sland

Located 1km before Nga Ba Long Hoa and 60km from Ho Chi Minh City, follow the signs for Can Cu Rung Sac. The main reason to go here is to take a canoe ride around the reconstructed guerilla base, to see the macaques and feed the crocodiles. A motorised canoe costs VND600,000.

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The Islands in the Swamps

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Teeming with wildlife and just 20km from downtown Ho Chi Minh City, the islands that make up the mangrove swamps of Can Gio are home to a people who have survived against the odds. Words and photos by Nick Ross

“I

came here 35 years ago,” says the man, his face taut yet lined with the harshness of the elements. “It was just after the Liberation. There were no roads and we had to get here by boat from Long An. There were so many mosquitoes and we often got sick. Life was really difficult.” His five-year-old granddaughter is staring at me, riveted by the whiteness of my skin. Receiving such attention is a rare occurrence in the Ho Chi Minh City of today. Despite geographically lying inside the confines of Vietnam’s largest metropolis, this is far from being in the city. Here we’re in the swamps, on islands in the swamps. This is Can Gio, the area southeast of Saigon known in the war as The Forest of Thieves. “Kho qua,” continues the man, shaking his head in memory. “We really suffered. But this road was built three years ago. The bridge over there, ten. Before that it was only a dirt track. Until recently we had to live off the jungle and fish on the rivers. Now we can farm.” His memories are overpowering. But they are now only memories — life is infinitely better. The struggle to survive in the harshness of the jungle is one his granddaughter will never know.

The Beach

On the other side of the islands, it’s late morning. Close to the main town Can Thanh, I drive down the paved promenade. Opposite sits the Vung Tau peninsula, but the tide is out and the mud-brown sand stretches for miles. This is Can Gio’s closest thing to a beach. A decade ago this area was developed, with an eye to attracting beachside resorts and restaurants. It never happened — Ho Chi Minh City’s beachgoers and sun worshippers decided to travel elsewhere. Now the promenade is unkempt, grass and weeds grow through the uneven tiles, and fisherman’s huts line the rickety thoroughfare. Here men lie in hammocks or stretch out over motorbikes, while women sift through plastic baskets full of shellfish. Money is exchanged as the shellfish gatherers emerge from the beach with their catch. The sun is harsh, the glare of the water reflecting on the sand even harsher. Collecting mollusks to feed the streetside obsession with cockles

Antillia 15th Century Maps Everyone knows Atlantis, but how many are familiar with Antillia? Originating in an old Iberian legend, Antillia was reputed to have first been populated by seven Christian

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and mussels in Ho Chi Minh City is a tough trade. When the tide comes in, it can be dangerous, too. But it’s a living. Two gatherers I spy have rid themselves of their catch on the beach itself — the mollusks weighed and money exchanged before they leave the sand. They walk onto the promenade, get on their motorbike and drive to wherever they live. Their lives may require them to bear the severity of sun, sea and sand, but they have a motorbike. Five years ago it would have been a bicycle. A decade past and they would have walked.

The Ferry

The change in fortunes of the inhabitants of Can Gio is echoed by the ticket seller on the ferry from Ben Do in Nha Be. Thanks to both UNESCO and national park protection, 75 percent of the islands are off limits to developers. While it allows for wildlife to flourish — 52 mangrove species, over 200 animal species and 40 bird species thrive in the 70,000-hectare wetland biosphere reserve — it means many inhabitants have to look elsewhere for employment. In this case, the industrial estates on the other side of the river. “In the morning and late afternoons the ferry gets very busy,” says the ticket seller. “Lots of people in Can Gio work in Long Hau Industrial Estate. They do all sorts of jobs, but mostly work in the factories. On Can Gio there’s only seafood farming, swift nest farms, fishing or collecting shellfish.” On my way to Ben Do I’ve driven through Long Hau. It’s vast and is graced with space. Yet it’s only 20 minutes’ drive from Saigon South. “We’re better connected to Saigon now,” he continues. “A few years ago it was all dirt tracks and boats. Now we can survive.”

Nature

The wetland reserves are nature unchained, just don’t make the mistake of thinking all you can see, touch or smell is to be found at Monkey Island in Can Cu Rung Sac, the Forest of Thieves Guerilla Base. It’s not. While it’s worth a visit to see the aggressive macaques, feed the crocodiles or take a motorboat through the rivers and canals that slither through the reconstructed base in the mangroves, the lesser-known Vam Sat is the superior option. Like in Monkey Island, the headquarters

bishops fleeing the 8th century Muslim conquest of Hispania. But in 1424, it made its first notable appearance on a nautical chart, as a large rectangular island. From then on, it continued to appear on most seafarers’ maps during the age of exploration, until

area at Vam Sat is also run down, but there’s a different atmosphere. The woman selling park entrance tickets is both helpful and friendly. She doubles up as a waitress in the deserted restaurant and tells me what I can do. Following her advice I climb the tower to get sweeping views over the swamps. She helps me feed a gibbon, who swings between his island home and a bamboo climbing frame erected in the middle of a lake. When I decide to hire a standard fishing boat rather than a ca no, or speedboat, she argues back against the remonstrations of one of her colleagues. It’s lunchtime and he wants to sleep. Go by speedboat and he can return quickly. Take the fishing boat and he will miss his siesta. I decide to take the fishing boat. It’s traditional, slower and a better ride. The trip by boat takes me to the bat swamp, Dam Doi. I descend, decide not to go crab fishing and instead take a canoe into the swamp. It is populated by stalks and heron, delicately paddling across the surface of a lake. In the distance the woman rowing me points out the fruit bats. They are hanging in the trees beyond, but sometimes they leave their upsidedown perches and fly between branches. I spy them through binoculars. They are enormous. “Some of them have wingspans as long as one metre,” says the woman. “But at this time of day they like to rest. The best time to see them is at sunset when they fly off in search of food.” When I return to Vam Sat headquarters I realise what I’ve missed. There is a bird sanctuary here, but it’s mainly populated between April and October. There is also crocodile feeding, an experience described by a friend as sitting in the middle of a swamp on polystyrene boards and watching the animals fight each other and thrash about for morsels of food. Can Gio is often described as the lungs of Ho Chi Minh City, an antidote to the pollution and concrete of this everexpanding metropolis. It also acts as a buffer against typhoons and rising sea levels. Go here and the air is different. It’s not fresh — jungle humidity takes care of that — but it’s pollution-free. Here you can breathe. And, in this current compromise between development and natural disposition, so can its residents.

1492, when the north Atlantic began to be routinely sailed. Nevertheless, the presence of such a landmass on pre-Columbian nautical charts has continued to fuel theories of trans-Atlantic passage before Columbus.

Pacific Trash Vortex North Pacific Gyre In the wide stretch of ocean between East Asia and North America, there lies a mass of plastics, chemical sludge and other debris — estimated at somewhere between twice

the size of Vietnam and twice the size of China. It’s thought to have been gathered in the North Pacific Gyre by ocean currents, drawing waste from the coasts of major waste producers North America and Japan into it via a whirlpool effect. Not only is it

a crisis on the horizon of the likes of global warming, but it’s already affecting at least 267 species worldwide — some of whom live in the gyre, and feed plastic debris to their young.

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Life On An Urban Island

Photo by Francis Xavier

Growing numbers of urban residents are moving to the islands — not the islands on the coast but those in the city. Derek Milroy and Hoa Le visit four urban islands. Photos by Francis Xavier and Francis Roux

Dai Phuoc Lotus Island Nhon Trach, Dong Nai

“You can sit on the boat, read the paper or listen to your iPad, have a coffee, relax and get into the city.” Vina Dai Phuoc Corp general director Mike Gammel describes the 30-minute speedboat ride from the island into the city. Having experienced it ourselves it is not a bad way to commute. This urban island hideaway, although far from completion, is not as far away as you think. Despite being located in Dong Nai Province and an 80-minute car ride, it is only 16km as the crow flies from Ho Chi Minh City’s District 1. Yet as Gammel admits himself, few people know about Dai Phuoc. However, the Australian is confident that the

VinaCapital-owned 446 hectare island will have 100 familes residing there over the next two to three years. “We sell it is as clean, green, resort-style living in the countryside but close to the city and you can be back from work in 30 minutes,” he says. “If you live in District 10 or 11 or in Go Vap, it takes 30 to 40 minutes on your motorbike and it’s risky.” The property is close to completing 10 percent of its long-term project. In the future when it is finally finished we could be looking at Phu My Hung: The Sequel. In this is case it will be Phu My Hung: The Island. As Gammel explains, most potential buyers ask him how they get there, and

what they can do when they get there? With the first question answered, he can point to the two central parks with play area for kids, a gym, swimming pools, restaurants, tennis courts, a coffee shop doubling up as a convenience store and even a small football pitch. There is more to come. “The landscaping has only been planted for 12 months and has already netted a prestigious award,” he tells us. “There is a fully-stocked fish pond, natural flora and fauna and a lot of bird life.” As for the future he can only speculate. But so far business has been good — 183 out of 200 completed homes have already been sold.

Photo by Francis Roux

Ngu Xa Island

Truc Bach, Hanoi Bustling with pho cuon vendors with waves of visitors coming nightly for street food, Ngu Xa has etched its place in the culinary culture of the capital. Yet few people realise that this island in Truc Bach Lake — now separated from the mainland by two short bridges — was once the home of the bronzecasting workers of Ngu Xa Village. Hidden in a narrow alley on Nam Trang, Mrs. Dan’s showroom is only 15sqm, but it displays countless carefully sculptured bronze statues including a Ho Chi Minh bust and Buddha statues in various sizes. Now in her 70s, she is among only two people who still continue the traditional work passed down by previous generations. “Before, the water was just a stone’s throw from my house,” she says, pointing towards the concrete road. According to Dan, the soil residue from the bronze casting was often dumped in the lake, increasing the size of the island. “Life on the island was peaceful,” she

continues. “There was only one way in and no way out, so security was good. We didn’t need to lock the doors. It had the true feeling of a traditional village with a temple, a pagoda and villagers who all knew each other well.” According to Dan, bronze casting in the capital first started on Lo Duc — in Vietnamese the street name means ‘casting’ — before some of the artisans moved to Trang Tien to make coins — Trang Tien translates to ‘coin-making street’. Later, some of the artisans relocated to this island in Truc Bach Lake and started up workshops. “Those people were really poor,” she says. “They were separated from the rest [of the artisans] and travelled to the mainland by boat.” In early 2000, the banks around the island were reinforced and the road on Tran Vu was extended and connected with Ngu Xa Island by a new bridge. Land prices started to rise. “There was a rumour that Ngu Xa looks

like the tail of the dragon which shaped West Lake,” says Dan. “So the price of land here doubled or even tripled.” Nowadays, the majority of the residents in Ngu Xa are the late arrivals and the wealthy. Only about 20 percent of the residents are descendants of the original villagers. Another local resident, Chinh, claims that she was the first person to open a pho cuon stall. “In the beginning, pho cuon was sold to serve the workers from the bronze casting workshops as they wanted something cool instead of hot soupy pho after work,” she says. Chinh used to sell the dish on the streets, but in the 1980s she opened a pho cuon eatery in her home. In recent times, houses on Ngu Xa and Nguyen Khac Hieu have been rented out to a new breed of pho cuon vendors. While the bronze casting workshops no longer exist, income-wise, pho cuon has become the island’s dominating force.

Photos by Francis Xavier

Diamond Island

District 2, Ho Chi Minh City To anyone who attended A dOSe of Escape last year, Diamond Island should be familiar. Yet the place has changed — the improvements since the summer festival are evident. Most noticeably there are two large and six small bamboo beer houses, housing 50 and 20 people respectively. The structures offer outdoor recreation for both present and future families who will reside in the residences. Set on an eight-hectare island, there are a total of 247 apartments here, 68 of which are managed by serviced residence operator, The Ascott Limited. The property boasts childcare facilities, a playground, a saltwater pool and two tennis courts as well as much more. Residents will be able to join

a yacht club and will have the option of renting a yacht. The property also offers a five-minute speedboat ride to the city, with taxis on hand to take you by road on the 12-minute journey. International trader Nghia and his family made their escape from the city five months ago. They were among the first residents to move in and understand that facilities will improve once the city exodus to the island occurs. “One of the main reasons I wanted to move out of the city was because the whole family has allergies,” he explains. “We are very happy now to have much cleaner air. Residents need more facilities like a

supermarket, schools and health clinics, but that will take time.” Nghia takes advantage of the building’s facilities and the green open spaces in the nearby surroundings as his active family make the best of the environment. They are relishing urban island life. “We feel more comfortable living here in this green place compared to the noisy city,” he continues. “I think life here is easy and safe. It is a great place to relax after work. Normally after I come home from work my family likes to go swimming or the gym. On the weekend we cycle around the island. No other place in the city can give you such pure and fresh air like here.”

Surtsey Island

fishing trawler that took the saying “right place, right time” to heart — the water burst in an explosion of smoke and ash. The volcano that had been erupting beneath the ocean’s surface for days had finally become visible, and suddenly, an island was

born. Beating the rough tides of the North Atlantic that many believed would wash the island away, after continued eruptions through 1967, the island now remains as the southernmost point of Iceland.

Iceland Before Nov. 14, 1963, the coordinates of Surtsey Island would only have brought you to more vast, blue ocean. But on a fateful night — one witnessed by the crew of a lone

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Photos by Francis Roux

Middle Warp

Red River, Hanoi The screech of waves of motorbikes running along the capital’s oldest bridge — Long Bien Bridge — suddenly disappears as you step down the rusted staircase in its middle. Leading to an island in the Red River, known as Bai Giua Song Hong, or Middle Warp, you are struck immediately by ever-green fields of banana trees and plots after plots of corn and vegetables. According to Dung, who is doing the cultivation on a plot of cabbage, the island was formerly the location of Trung Ha Village. In 1971, a typhoon swept away all the houses, so the residents were relocated to the mainland. The land is now only used for farming and for reasons of safety, living here is forbidden. Keep walking along the dirt path skirting the river, however, and you will find a squatter community of 24 households, the

present ‘residents’ of this island. They come from many different parts of the country, but share the same reason to live here — they can’t afford to buy a home on the mainland and are living on their one-room houseboats. The name of the community, Xom Phao, or Buoy Village, originated from the nature of these homes. The first arrival to Xom Phao was Nguyen Van Duoc — he is now the ‘chief’ of this community. He came here with his wife and two children in 1989 and after a few years, a community started to form. “We’re all farmers and labourers and don’t do any harm to the society. So people let us stay here and recognise us,” he says. Better-off families in this village such as Duoc’s rent land on the island to cultivate. Other families are either hired to work on those farms or buy the

products, such as banana or corn, and sell them on Long Bien Bridge or in Central Hanoi. Many women also collect trash for recycling, while some of the men work on construction sites. “People here are like a big family and we rely on each other to live,” says 38-year-old Hoa, who just had to sell her houseboat for VND2 million to pay a hospital bill — she has got goiter. She received help from other families to build a temporary place to stay on the farm land of Mr. Duoc. “My husband and I will stay here until we have enough money to build another boat house,” she says. While for most people, living in a houseboat on Middle Warp is a destiny they would wish to shy away from, for Hoa it’s become a dream. She would be able to live somewhere she can truly call home.

Palm Islands

assume that it can’t be far off. The Palm Islands will be the largest artificial islands in the world upon completion, adding nearly 520sqkm to the city of Dubai. Shaped like an enormous palm tree — no word yet if there are any actual palm trees there — the

island houses what appears to be the most ostentatious collection of beachside villas and luxury amenities. Construction is set to take up to 15 years, and will consume 100 million cubic metres of rock and sand.

Dubai “Why travel to a faraway island when you can make one yourself?” Although we can’t be sure if that is exactly what the creators of Dubai’s Palm Islands were thinking, we

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The Islands Within The Island

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Singapore is much more than just the vibrancy and unerring pace of the Lion City. Hoa Le pays visits to three of the 60 or so islands inside the island state. Photos by Nick Ross

he ancient parable told by Lonely Planet as an introduction to the different neighbourhoods of Singapore keeps popping in my head when I make my visits to three of the offshore islands surrounding Singapore. The story goes that a group of blind men try to guess what an animal is as they are all touching different parts of an elephant. Their answers are completely different, depending on what part that they touch. The man who touches the leg says the elephant is ‘like a pillar’; the other touches the tail, and says the animal is ‘like a rope’; and so on. The three islands I visit — Pulau Ubin in the northeast, Sentosa and Kusu in the south — all possess completely different characteristics. Whether it’s a getaway for nature lovers, the entertainment vibe of Singapore’s answer to Disney Land, or the spirit of visiting a shrine and a temple, put together as a whole these three islands paint a colourful picture of Singapore.

Pulau Ubin: The Land that Time Forgot After a 10-minute ride by bumboat from Changi Point Ferry Terminal, you arrive at the pier of Pulau Ubin. Lacking the gleaming steel and glass skyscrapers of the rest of Singapore, the first image is of an island abundant in trees, jungle and bicycles. A range of bicycle rental shops with hundreds of bikes for rent queue up

along the road that leads into the little village. Here you are struck by the serenity, fresh air and peace that this island has to offer. Once full of granite quarries — Pulau Ubin translates as ‘Granite Island’ — the island boasted a population of several thousand, most of them ethnically Chinese. Working in the quarries or plying a trade as fishermen, in 2003 the residents were relocated to mainland Singapore. The plan was to turn the island into a nature reserve. “Only about 40 families still live in the island as they have their ancestral houses here,” says Naseem, our tour guide. “And most of them are men,” she adds, explaining that this is because their kids go to school or work on mainland Singapore — their wives go along to take care of them. “I was born here. And so I live here,” says Mr. Lim, a resident on the island, when I ask why he doesn’t want to leave. He also adds that his children are irritated by the mosquitoes and the lack of entertainment, so they choose to live and work in Singapore. In the hundred-year-old traditional kampong house that has been passed down through many generations, Mr. Lim sits with his mother, who is now in her 80s. They are the only two people living in this spacious property. Separated from the jungle by the narrow road running past their front gate, they say the noise of the city scares them and they prefer the simple life.

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Apart from the dense forest, hiking and cycling trails, Pulau Ubin is also home to many wild species of animal including wild boars and migratory birds as well as the nature rich Chek Jawa wetlands on the southeastern tip of the island. Originally razed for reclamation in 1992, Chek Jawa is made up of six interdependent ecosystems — coastal hill forest, mangrove forest, rocky shore, sandy shore and sand bar, sea grass and coral rubble. At low tide you can spot an abundance of creatures, rare plants and birds living in each ecosystem. Traversed by a 1.1 km boardwalk that runs through the mangroves area and then along the land between the intertidal zone, the walkway provides the perfect stage to see the natural biodiversity of the area at play. It’s not surprising that Pulau Ubin has become a popular spot for camping or group outdoor activities. Although residents say they are not sure about the future of this island, for now, the island

Sealand Principality of Sealand… sort of While it’s perhaps a stretch to call it an actual island — it is, after all, entirely concrete — the residents of what used to be the Maunsell Sea Fort 10km off the coast of

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remains undeveloped and untouched by the highrises of Singapore, making it a perfect retreat for nature lovers and those seeking a simple life.

Sentosa: The Disney Land of Southeast Asia

Just spitting distance from mainland Singapore and reached by road, cable car, walkway or sky train, Sentosa is an island of entertainment, a popular resort getaway and home to a number of top-end residential areas. Even on a Thursday when we made the first of our two visits, it felt like the majority of Singapore’s five-million-strong population were present at the integrated resort and entertainment complex, Resort World, in the northern part of the island. A young woman in her sari poses next to Universal Studio’s iconic globe. Inside the theme park, a family with two parents and teenage kids are standing in line next to the giant mummy statues, waiting for their turn

England insist, vehemently, that it is. The ‘island’s’ occupants that rarely exceed 10 are the associates and family of eccentric former radio broadcaster Paddy Roy Bates, who live in an area of less than 550sqm. To date, the bizarre micronation has yet to convince

on the fantasy ride. The musical LightSeeker in Resorts World Theatre wows the audience with its circus-style acrobatics and technologically amazing set. All contribute to the colourful picture of Singapore that is reflected on Sentosa. Although most of the attractions in Sentosa will cost you — entrance to Universal Studios is S$68 (VND1.156 million) for an adult — when you plan a treat after a hard-working week or want to enjoy some fun time with family or friends and don’t mind the crowds, there are plenty of options on this tiny island. Besides the Universal Studios theme park, a casino, museums, golf courses, the world’s largest aquarium, Segway tours, indoor skydiving, the sky ride and luge, numerous beaches and beach bars, and various resorts and spas, as ever in foodobsessed Singapore, there are a variety of dining options. You can choose from a romantic dinner in one of the restaurants by

anyone of their sovereignty as a nation, but for now, this seafaring oddity’s inhabitants remain steadfast in its legitimacy.

Sentosa Cove, dine at Australian chef Cat Cora’s underground Ocean Restaurant, with its views of the marine life in the aquarium as sharks and manta rays swim by. Or you can hit up one of the food courts and grab something more typical, from nasi lemak to mee laksa, roti prata or bak kut teh. If you’re looking for peace and tranquility, then Sentosa may not quite be your place. But if you’re searching for without doubt the most sophisticated leisure centre in the region, then Sentosa wins hands down.

Pulau Kusu: Land of the Spirit

Pulau Kusu is the furthest away of the three islands from the mainland. Lying in the southern part of Singapore, although small — it’s just over 8.5 hectares — to many Singaporeans, Kusu has an important spiritual meaning. After an hour’s cruise on a replica Ming Dynasty era ship, sailing past Sentosa and then weaving through the southern

Alcatraz Island San Francisco, USA Sometimes referred to as ‘The Rock’ — not to be confused with the professional wrestler — Alcatraz Island was home to the infamous maximum security prison with which it

islands of Tekukor, Seringat, Lazarus and St. John, we arrive at Kusu with its blue lagoon, pristine beach and tranquil setting. Uninhabited, it is a popular pilgrimage destination for those seeking to pray for wealth, good marriage, health, harmony and prosperity. According to legend, a giant tortoise turned itself into an island in order to save two shipwrecked sailors, a Malay and a Chinese, near the Singapore waters. It was therefore named Kusu, the Chinese for tortoise. 152 steps up the hill stand three shrines, or kramats, to commemorate the pious Malay, Syed Abdul Rahman, his mother, Nenek Ghalib, and sister, Puteri Fatimah, who lived in the 19th century. Painted yellow it is strikingly quiet — except for a Malaysian couple, we are the only visitors. An old man wearing a taqiyah, a Muslim skull cap, tells us he has been looking after the shrines for 20 years. In a short ceremony

he places ash on the back of our hands, ties cloth around our wrists and blesses us. According to him, most of the pilgrimages take place during the ninth month of the lunar calendar. During this month, each day Kusu sees thousands of visitors flock to its tiny shores. Located at sea level, the Chinese temple houses two deities — Da Bo Gong and Guan Yin. Built by a wealthy businessman in 1923, Da Bo Gong is believed to have the power to confer prosperity, cure diseases, calm the sea and avert danger. Guan Yin is known as the ‘giver of sons’. Our tour guide Naseem points out that the fact a Muslim shrine and Chinese temple can be found in one location is a typical example of Singaporean culture. “Singapore is all about mixture and the celebration of differences,” she told me. Of the four of us who have just been blessed in the Muslim shrine, only one of us follows Islam. I can’t agree with her more.

shared its name. The treacherous rocky cliffs and turbulent surrounding waters of San Francisco Bay granted Alcatraz its penchant for being the ‘inescapable prison’. Some of the most famous criminals in the United States were housed here — including Al

Capone and George ‘Machine Gun’ Kelly — and although it now operates as a spooky museum for brave souls, Alcatraz maintains its crown as one of the most famous prison islands in history.

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Rebuilding an Island A month after Typhoon Haiyan ripped apart The Philippines, Bea Nguyen headed to a decimated island with Young Pioneer Disaster Response to pick up the pieces, and help build new ones. Words by Ed Weinberg, photos supplied by YPDR

hen the most intense storm ever to make landfall ripped through The Philippines, Bea Nguyen, like many of us, tried to find how her goodwill would fit into the void left by Typhoon Haiyan. “I had emailed a bunch of different Red Crosses,” says the arts event organiser and erstwhile English teacher. “American Red Cross, Red Cross International, Philippine Red Cross — even the Vietnam Red Cross, because originally I wanted to help on the central coast. I’m already here, I’m Vietnamese, I wanted to help my people. But volunteerism in Vietnam is such a foreign concept, unless it’s in an orphanage and you’re white. Needless to say I didn’t get a reply. “What Philippine Red Cross got back to me was, ‘Thank you for your interest, and we’ll let you know when we’re ready to deploy.’ [The typhoon] happened at this point two weeks beforehand, so it’s like, ‘You guys haven’t deployed anyone yet?’” A friend of a friend introduced her to Rowan Beard, a guide with North Korea and Philippines-oriented adventure tourism company Young Pioneer Tours. Three weeks after Typhoon Haiyan left The Philippines in shambles, with 6,000 dead and 2 million homeless, the newly-formed Young Pioneer Disaster Response sent in their first relief mission. Bea was among the 15 who would help rebuild a small island called Bantayan, whose 140,000 inhabitants had lain directly in the storm’s path. Only eight percent of the homes and schools had survived.

92 Percent Devastation

Until the typhoon, Bantayan Island’s major source of income was tourism. Yet the

15 members of YPDR had to embrace a different type of tourism — with a tent for accommodation, and construction work as entertainment. They paid their own way, and formed a surprisingly effective cadre for the task at hand. They were led by Chris P. White and Captain Joseph Ferris III, who were “like two dads telling you what to do”. “Chris was on it — they were all on it, the whole team,” says Bea. “Everyone had a role, and they did it super well.” After a little reconnaissance, YPDR set about its original mission, to “reconstruct school facilities with shipping containers that will withstand future assaults of wind and water, and also serve as evacuation centres and storage units in times of crisis”. “These shipping containers are built with weather-resistant steel,” says YPDR’s Marshall Mayer, who also has a hand in the relief efforts, “and can be erected on any foundation to meet thermal, moisture and water control conditions.” 100 new homes are expected to complement the work on Bantayan’s schools by the time this goes to print. But before these new constructions are started, what’s left had to be taken down. Says Bea: “I went in and completely tore up a building, just singing, to my chagrin, Miley Cyrus’s Wrecking Ball. I did in fact come in like a wrecking ball.”

The Simple Things

“Unplugging was unreal,” she says, having let her smartphone run out of charge on that first day. With the apocalyptic landscape as background, it soon became clear what was worthy of attention. “I maybe swapped around four different articles of clothing,”

Bea says. “It got to the point where I just wore my bikini under my work clothes, and as soon as I was able to, I’d just rip them off and jump into the ocean. I woke up every morning to the beach, to the waves. I’ve never seen so many stars in my life. “The perspective it gave me… it’s not like I consciously pushed myself, but the situation made me aware of what I’m capable of as far as basic needs.” Their tent city was beach-facing, just off a coconut grove which they’d been granted to set up on. They ended most nights with a bonfire, beers, good conversation. Originally, Bea says, “I took it because they chose me,” talking about her decision to join YPDR on Bantayan. “I didn’t expect it to be so great. The way we all worked, it wasn’t like we were volunteers under an

umbrella. Once we were there, we were like a family, a community.” It wasn’t regimented, this ragtag group of volunteers, which drew on every walk of life. Bea says, “There was a lawyer in there — and Captain Joe is a legit captain. I saw his captain’s license. Chris at one point was a firefighter, he’d also worked on an oil rig doing deep sea welding.” Bea had had some experience with the mega-organisation Red Cross, signing up to volunteer in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina (although she got certified and trained, they never called her for deployment). In her two weeks volunteering with YPDR, she had a completely different experience. It was better. “Whatever ideas you might have,”

she says, “whatever you imagine in volunteering abroad for a disaster, this was it. This should be the poster child for what volunteering should be like, it was just so epic an experience. “I didn’t know what to expect going into this. I just allowed myself to go into it, not expecting anything. It’s like being afraid of the dark — you know you’re going to survive, you just don’t know what’s going to happen. “I got a hundred times more out of it than I expected.” For more information about Young Pioneer Tours and volunteering for YPDR, go to youngpioneertours.com. To add to the VND500 million already raised by Young Pioneer Disaster Response, go to indiegogo.com/ projects/typhoon-yolanda-relief--2

Arts

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ART

Art & The City Although the artists may deny it, Hanoi’s unique environment produces an equally unique creative response. Alyssa Becht talks to a trio of artists working in different mediums. Photos by Thiep Nguyen

Dinh Cong Dat

anoi is relentless with its artists. Without them knowing or wishing it, the city burrows under their skin and reveals itself in a variety of ways, in a variety of mediums. Artists can claim that Hanoi isn’t any different from anywhere else but their work says otherwise. These artists have a loving but complicated relationship with their hometown and their art is dramatic evidence of it. Of course, their teachers got it wrong. “The teachers in my art college were really stupid,” says sculptor Dinh Cong Dat. “You can write that. It was like when they became teachers they gave up on learning. They lost their drive. If they taught badly nothing happened to them, there were no repercussions. The teaching model used came from France a hundred years before. It was completely irrelevant to modern Vietnamese art-making.” Dat — aka ‘Crazy Dad’, aka ‘Dad Ant’ — has been a visible character on the Vietnamese art scene for over 25 years. His work is instantly recognisable — giant fibreglass praying mantises and stainless steel figures of his signature creature, The Ant.

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Vu Kim Thu

First impressions of Dat are of a charming, personable artist with a wealth of knowledge supporting his work. Though famous for his sculpture, the most ubiquitous and visible example of his work is probably the luxurious India-inspired window displays he has created for luxury brands Hermès, Dior and Gucci.

Paying the Bills In Hanoi, Dat feels, art is commercialised. For high-salary earners or high-end fashion houses, it’s a means of showing just how much money or influence you have. “In Saigon,” he says, “artists come from everywhere to make art. It’s a big city but the market is small. In Hanoi, there are foreign companies like Coca Cola and Piaggio. There are embassies, the UN, NGOs. There is lots of money. People with large salaries create the demand for art as something expensive to buy and put in their offices and homes. “In Hanoi, artists are motivated by the desire to create, but they’re also motivated by money.” Dat understands that corporate art pays the bills, but he maintains a balance between moneymaking projects and altruistic ones. In the past he has run social projects that taught skills to ex-addicts fresh out of rehab. “I want to give them the means to create saleable works to support themselves.

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Anything they can learn [will help] — papier maché, ceramics so they can make and sell souvenirs.” In 2014 he will implement a Recycling-asArt project in six provinces across the centre of Vietnam, encouraging young people to recycle rubbish into art. He plans to pick the best works created and hold an exhibition

with a prize for the best work. Through his social projects Dat is giving disenfranchised or simply unaware people the tools to make their future a positive one.

Redefining the Map Fresh from a residency in Japan’s Mino Paper Art Village, Vu Kim Thu’s recent

Pham Ngoc Duong

“In Hanoi, artists are motivated by the desire to create, but they’re also motivated by money” work reflects her Hanoian background and the delicacy of Japanese paper sculpture in equal parts. Thu’s work is detailed to the nth degree, and her process is paramount. She says her brain is in her hands — the concept reveals itself through the work, rather than vice versa. The use of light renders the paper almost skin-like, scored with unknowable detail like an encrypted map. “I love maps,” Thu says. “When you travel, the first thing you ask for when you come to a new city or new town is a map of the area. Also when you are in a plane, looking at the ground as you come into land — the local landscape from above reveals so much of the character of a place.” When asked about Hanoi and its influence on her work Thu says, “More or less, an artist’s work reflects the society they live in or what they see in the society they live in. That’s the same in every country. It’s a local issue that’s also global. “My life is not about a specific place; it is a visual diary of my personal relationship with line and space. Every destination I travel through features in my diary and Hanoi is one of those destinations. When I’m in Hanoi I find my work becomes smaller and smaller to the point of being tiny. There is such a feeling of compressed

space in this city. When I leave Hanoi I feel like I need to expand or grow bigger.”

A Human Side If Thu’s reaction to Hanoi is to retreat into the intricacies of line drawing and miniature landscapes, Pham Ngoc Duong’s is to show a literal translation of what happens to people exposed to relentless pressure. His paintings Cold and Sleeping show figures deformed by the oppression of modern life, cultural change or a lack of basic human rights. Duong says that Hanoi doesn’t come into account in the creation of his works. “I don’t focus on Hanoi. For me, everywhere is the same. It’s just all names. “But sometimes Hanoi does make me feel uncomfortable. My exhibition People in the City discusses the negatives [of] globalisation and social issues. But my human beings are in the same environment as everyone else. Everyone is being forcibly reshaped. My paintings reflect this.”

Reshaping, Reshaped Duong’s paintings show an eroticism that’s lacking from Dat and Thu’s work. His use of the human figure is plenteous, while Dat continues to explore insects and animals and Thu looks at the world with a cartographer’s eye. All three artists are graduates of Vietnam University of Fine Arts but had

vastly different experiences. Today, Dat tries to create change through information and social form. Thu avoids the representational teaching she was exposed to, but believes the traditional education she experienced was worthwhile. Duong sees his time there as something of value thanks to the contacts he made and the opportunity to network. As independent artists, each is known for a particular branch of art — Dat for sculpture, Thu for drawing and Duong for painting. But each artist is prolific in other fields. Thu’s light boxes are miniature sculptures of wood and paper that look like tiny domestic scenes. Dat’s window displays use costume, life-size animals and colours reminiscent of Frida Kahlo. Duong’s next piece is a dramatic shift away from his eroticised, crushed figures towards sculpture, using LED lights and lacquered wooden board. Whatever their relationship with the city, the diversity of their work is facilitated by Hanoi. The availability of any component, from bronze to petrified wood to steel, has helped these artists expand their repertoire to an extent and with an ease they couldn’t have done anywhere else in the world. As Dat says, “Come on, you can get anything you want here, just go out onto the street. This is Vietnam.”

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Arts

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Performance

The Future of Vietnamese Dance For the past six years, Ho Chi Minh City-based ballet company Arabesque has been redefining the meaning of Vietnamese dance. Now, with the aid of some new technologies, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s participating in the future of dance on a global level. Words by Kelly L. Le, photos by Lam Hieu Thuan

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“The otherworldly twisting of his body against the backdrop of flowing silks and climatic percussion propelled the audience to their feet”

ast November, Arabesque and Saigon Concert Production proudly hosted the very first International Dance Festival in Ho Chi Minh City. Though modest in size, with representatives from just four countries, the event was successful in showcasing contemporary dance to the general public. It lasted seven days, with the main acts performing two back-to-back nights at the Opera House. Featured foreign performers included Italian Borderline Dance Company, who managed to arouse the audience’s curiosity with simple, bodily gestures. Starkly contrasting with their minimal approach was the equally impressive Dance Company Moo-E. Focusing on fluidity and angularity, the Koreans wowed viewers with fierce technical skills. But the most engaging performance of the fest was choreographer Kaiji Moriyama’s dramatic interpretation of Hagoromo — the Japanese legend of a celestial maiden’s feather robe. The otherworldly twisting of his body against the backdrop of flowing silks and climatic percussion propelled the

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audience to their feet. Moriyama’s spiritual sensibilities are closely related to the aestheticism of Nguyen Tan Loc, Arabesque’s director.

Arabesque’s Entrée Fitting perfectly in with the high-calibre internationals was Arabesque’s seven-act production, The Mist. After just six years, Arabesque has become the premier neoclassical ballet troupe in Ho Chi Minh City. With alumni performing in Singapore and Germany, and new recruits competing in festivals in Korea and Japan, they earn praise for fostering cross-cultural collaborations and providing platforms for local talents to shine internationally. The ballet tells a story of Vietnamese farmers. A rustic spectacle of bamboo bridges, spiral incense and conical hats, the show embodies all the charms and colours of the south. Considered Arabesque’s most acclaimed piece, The Mist is the first to allow the troupe to bridge the trans-Atlantic gap, touring selected American cities at the end of the year.

Besides performances, the festival offered multiple workshops at Le Thanh Theatre (25 Phan Phu Tien, Q5, Ho Chi Minh City). The themes included awareness of the body, as well as rapid creativity and floor movements. An average of 25 people participated in the intense one-and-a-half hour workshops. There were dance students, curious expats and even local celebrities such as Do Quang Dang, finalist in Vietnam’s 2013 So You Think You Can Dance competition. Ngo Thanh Phuong, Arabesque’s choreographer and instructor at the city’s dance school, says that this kind of international exchange is what Vietnamese dance needs to thrive. “I used to give classes on horizontal movements,” she says. “Most didn’t take me seriously. After [Moo-E dancer] Kim Sung Yung’s seminar, a former student finally understood. “I asked her, ‘Was there a reason why what I said didn’t resonate with you before?’ She replied, ‘No, it’s just that he is a foreigner.’” Laughing full-heartedly, Phuong continues, “Young Vietnamese dancers are too timid to venture outside classical boundaries. Without

international support, we will always be seen as the crazy troublemakers.”

Future Moves Besides the international diplomacy, Phuong is also active on the other frontier of dance, the technical side. Her latest experiment is a research project with RMIT Saigon. Under the direction of lecturer Paul Verity Smith, she and a team of two dancers, Minh Thu and Anh Khoa, have been meeting on the weekends to develop choreography that will complement new interactive technologies. The goal is for dancers to take sole ownership of their performances by controlling elements of staging through movement. Wearing accelerometers and light sensors on their bodies, dancers trigger live recording and pre-recorded videos, as well as generate sounds for the stage. The result of the team’s year-long experiment is a 40-minute production called Intimacies. Loosely referencing a love story, Intimacies is a dance montage of the three people’s POVs against the backdrop of Ho Chi Minh City. Technically speaking, the project has a

high degree of originality. Tran Van Chinh, an RMIT student, has created the computer program Isadora specifically for the occasion. Her program converts the dancer’s movements into raw data, then outputs them as commands to manipulate the transparency of images being projected on stage. Such software enables a highly personalised experience that changes every time the show is being performed. In the beginning the dancers struggled with getting used to the technology. Minh Thu explains, “I didn’t know what to do because I was still thinking about me triggering the sensors rather than letting them be extensions of myself.” Phuong agrees. “It was a learning process,” she says. “We constantly tweaked our movements so as to not interfere with excess wires of our receivers.” Both agree that having gone through the project, they have a more profound awareness of the physical presence of their bodies. While Intimacies shines as a technological innovation, as a production, it falls shorts in

presenting a cohesive narrative. Some of this has to do with the abrupt mixing of original noise-like music and found melodies. But mostly, it’s the choices in the pre-recorded images and use of props — which come across as randomised rather than deliberate. For example, the second-to-last scene depicts a female performer dancing with multiple shadows of wooden chairs. Triggering the sensors, a four-second-delayed video loop of her in real time is recorded and projected back on the stage. Prior to this scene, most of the images used were close-ups of the dancers’ body parts. The introduction of a new inanimate object here seems out of place. Irrespective of these points, Intimacies is a praiseworthy collaborative endeavour. Both Arabesque and RMIT have shown an exceptional dedication to creativity. And with overwhelming excitement and support for this collaboration, Phuong can rest assured that there will be more avant-garde projects to come in the Year of the Horse. To learn about upcoming performances, head to arabesque.com.vn

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eat & drink Our Hanoi Judges Vincenzo Fiorile Italian Embassy Brew of choice: Lavazza Morning routine: ”As soon as I open my eyes, I make a coffee. By 1pm, I’ve had four or five. I take my Moka machine everywhere. I even put it in my luggage!” Virgile Torres Don’s Tay Ho Brew of choice: Lavazza Morning routine: ”In the morning, I have a double espresso. Every hour after that, an espresso. If I don’t have that, I fall asleep.” Chi Anh KAfe and Kitchen Art Brew of choice: mocha Morning routine: “I’m very sensitive to caffeine so I normally drink tea. But when I do have coffee, I have a mocha. I love how coffee and chocolate bring out each others’ flavours.” Nick Ross Word Vietnam Brew of choice: Caffé Vergnano 1882 Morning routine: ”Every morning I have two Americanos. I’ll have a flat white on the weekends.”

INSIDER

The Caffeine Contests How do you take your coffee? Espresso? Cappuccino? Latte? Eight judges took a mixture of (almost) everything as they tasted their way through 11 blends over two caffeine-fuelled mornings. Words by Hoa Le and Ed Weinberg. Photos by Francis Roux and Francis Xavier

e love our coffee in Vietnam, and these days the iced robusta version is being substituted for the espresso, and all the milky variations that come with it. So we got together the best caffeinated brews in Vietnam together with some discriminating palates to blind-taste

our way through a veritable selection of espressos. It was hard-going, eyes goggled, and our palates got stained with caffeine. But thanks to the baristas, who put together some great brews, our judges went through a total of 22 brews in two cities. Not bad going for two mornings’ work.

Malongo Malongo is a French coffee, started in 1934 in Nice. Malongo is one of the first companies to adopt Fair Trade policies, having done so in 1992.

Better Day Better Day coffees are made with handpicked Arabica beans from small-scale coffee farmers in Vietnam, mainly from Son La in the mountainous north. The business’s philosophy is to produce products that are under strict chemical safety control and create sustainable development in rural areas of Vietnam.

The Brands Illy Illy was established in 1933 in Trieste, Italy by Francesco Illy, who later invented the first automatic coffee machine. Illy arrived in Vietnam in 2007.

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Hanoi Tasting

Oriberry Oriberry offers Fair Trade prices to local coffee growers in regions across Vietnam. Established in 2009, they work with local and indigenous farmers across Vietnam to bring premium quality single origin coffee.

Punto Italia Punto Italia arrived in Vietnam in 2008, and services most of the hotel crowd as well as a number of notable restaurants in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

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The Tasting

The Result

The terrace on the second floor of Oriberry on Xuan Dieu overlooking West Lake seemed like the perfect location for a blind tasting coffee session in an early winter day in Hanoi. Each brand had two tastings, an espresso and a cappuccino. All brands were encouraged to bring their own barista, but Better Day and Malongo didn’t have one, so their coffees were made by the Oriberry team. The beans were ground freshly before each round, only interrupted by a thorough cleaning of the grinder. Punto Italia brought their own coffee machine, while the other brands used the machine provided at the venue. The judges were provided with water and chocolate chip cookies and the scoring was broken down into five parts: acidity, aroma/flavour, balance, body and overall. The final scores were based on the overall score. All the scores were calibrated on a 1-worst, 5-best basis — with the exception of acidity. For acidity, it’s a simple quantitative measure: 1 being the lowest, 5 being the highest.

Coffee Number 1 — Illy

Coffee Number 2 — Malongo

Espresso:

“Too acidic for me” — Chi Anh

“A coffee wakes you up, a woman cheers you up. This espresso is a woman!” — Virgile

“You know, I didn’t find it acidic. Strong, but not acidic. It’s not thrilling, but it’s not disgusting. Average” — Virgile

Score: Acidity: 4.0 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.1 // Balance: 2.9 // Body: 3.5

“This one will wake you up with a jolt at night” — Nick

Score: Acidity: 2.6 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.6 // Balance: 3.6 // Body: 4

Cappuccino:

“It’s interesting. I think I know which one it is. It’s so much better with milk” — Nick

“The aroma really shines through” — Chi Anh

“The milk covers the smell. But I think it’s ok. It’s much better this way” — Vincenzo Score: Acidity: 1.5 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.1 // Balance: 3.8 // Body: 4.3

“This coffee screams out, ‘I’m a good cappuccino!’” — Nick Score: Acidity: 1.8 // Aroma/Flavour: 4.4 // Balance: 4.6 // Body: 4.6

And the winner is: Best Espresso: Punto Italia The Top Three: Punto Italia (4.3), Malongo (4.0), Oriberry (3.3)

Hanoi Tasting

Coffee Number 3 — Better Day

Coffee Number 4 — Oriberry

Coffee Number 5 — Punto Italia

Espresso:

“Milder than the previous one but still with a kick” — Nick

“Very smooth” — Nick

“Imagine if you have to associate film actors with coffee. I’d say this one really suits Ryan Gosling. A bit rough but still has that tenderness, softness” — Chi Anh

“Good coffee if you have nothing to compare it with” — Virgile

Score: Acidity: 3.0 // Aroma/Flavour: 2.6 // Balance: 3.3 // Body: 3.5

“It’s interesting. It’s strong without too much acidity” — Virgile

“This coffee is ‘one for a day’. The feeling is longer” — Vincenzo Score: Acidity: 2.3 // Aroma/Flavour: 2.5 // Balance: 2.5 // Body: 2.8

Score: Acidity: 2.0 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.6 // Balance: 4.6 // Body: 4.8

Cappuccino:

“Cool and strong” — Vincenzo

“Not enough aroma” — Chi Anh

“Yum!” — Chi Anh

“Too watery. Too thin, no depth” — Nick

“Nice aftertaste, smooth and flavoured” — Virgile

“Lovely, but not crushing” — Virgile

Score: Acidity: 1.5 // Aroma/Flavour: 2.3 // Balance: 2.5 // Body: 2.8

Score: Acidity: 1.8 //Aroma/Flavour: 2.8 // Balance: 3.0 // Body: 2.5

Score: Acidity: 2.0 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.8 // Balance: 4.3 // Body: 4.5

And the winner is: Best Cappuccino: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.9), Punto Italia (4.6), Illy (3.6)

Our HCMC Judges Andy O’Brien Chef at L’Usine Brew of choice: Illy Morning routine: “It’s ritual that every morning I have a double latté.” Will Frith Specialty Coffee Consultant Brew of choice: Washed Kenya or Ethiopia beans, selfroast, brewed by paper filter, Chemex Morning routine: “I brew probably about 500ml of coffee for my wife and me, and some really productive mornings we brew another 500ml.” Nguyen Thanh Truc Owner of [a] café Brew of choice: African or Dalat beans, self-roast, Japanese iced method Morning routine: “I’ll drink an ice-brewed coffee.” Ed Weinberg Word Vietnam Brew of choice: Eastgate beans, via Chemex Morning routine: “Sometimes I’ll start with a western-style filter brew at home, sometimes I’ll stop at Startup or Chicco Dicaff for a quick latté.”

The Brands Lavazza Started in 1895 in Piedmont, Italy, Lavazza has successfully straddled the line between quality producer and massive global presence. Branded as “Italy’s Favourite Coffee,” their Wikipedia page claims that 16 out of the 20 million coffee-purchasing households in Italy buy Lavazza.

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Hausbrandt Hausbrandt is an Italian coffee brand that’s been around since 1892, and it was the first brand in the world to offer products factory packaged and sealed for sale.

Malongo Malongo is a French coffee, started in 1934 in Nice. Malongo is one of the first companies to adopt Fair Trade policies, having done so in 1992.

Ho Chi Minh City Tasting

Les Vergers Du Mekong French parent company Folliet sources domestically grown beans for Les Vergers Du Mekong’s light French-style roast, produced locally since 2000. The blend is culled from Arabica in the Highlands in Vietnam and Robusta from different Vietnamese regions.

Punto Italia Punto Italia Vietnam arrived in Vietnam in 2008, and services most of the hotel crowd as well as some of the better restaurants in Vietnam.

Caffé Vergnano 1882 Its lineage is right in the name, Caffé Vergnano is Italy’s oldest coffee producer at the national level.

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Ho Chi Minh City Tasting

The Tasting The tasting is at The Loop at 49 Thao Dien, Q2, at 10am. Each brand had two tastings, an espresso and a cappuccino. All brands brought their own baristas, squeezed into a far corner of the venue with two coffee machines, separated from the judges’ table by a vinyl banner. The beans were ground freshly before each round, only interrupted by thorough cleanings. The judges were provided with water and apple slices and, eventually, flavoured-cream cheese bagels. The scoring was broken down into five parts: acidity, aroma/flavour, balance, body and overall. The final scores are based on the overall score. All the scores are calibrated on a 1-worst, 5-best basis — with the exception of acidity. For acidity, it’s a simple quantitative measure: 1 being the lowest, 5 being the highest.

The Result Coffee Number 1 — Lavazza

Coffee Number 2 — Hausbrandt

Coffee Number 3 — Les Vergers Du Mekong

Espresso:

“It’s a balanced, standard coffee” — Truc

“This one’s smoother, but the first one had more character, more punch. I was actually surprised by the comments on the first one” — Nick Ross, taking a sip

“I can smell this one from over here” — Ed

“Something has to make me want to come back for more — this doesn’t” — Andy

“I like the smell on this one” — Andy Score: Acidity: 3.4 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.1 // Balance: 3.3 // Body: 3.5

Score: Acidity: 3.1 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.6 // Balance: 3.8 // Body: 4.1

[Nick slaps the table] “Slapping good!” — Andy

Score: Acidity: 3.1 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.4 // Balance: 3.1 // Body: 3.4

Cappuccino:

“It’s designed to handle milk — large volumes of milk” — Will

“The taste reminds me of that char that Oreo cookies have” — Will

“Why is it so sweet?” — Ed

“Jesus, I’m not a fan of milk” — Andy Score: Acidity: 2.5 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.0 // Balance: 3.5 // Body: 3.5

Score: Acidity: 2.3 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.8 // Balance: 3.5 // Body: 3.3

“This one reminds me of Whoppers... That’s my tasting vocabulary, I ate a crazy amount of junk food as a child. [Self-deprecating,] ‘This one reminds me of Doritos!’” — Will Score: Acidity: 2.1 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.4 // Balance: 3.4 // Body: 2.9

And the winner is: Best Espresso: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.1), Hausbrandt (4.0), Punto Italia (3.6)

Malongo’s Prize: Some Kind Words When we at the Ho Chi Minh City tasting discovered that our uniform favourite also scored well in Hanoi, we were surprised. The professional ringer in our midst, speciality coffee consultant Will Frith, explained the achievement like this: “In order for them to accomplish that level of presentation in their product, they have to have strong coffee sourcing, roasting and production has to be really tight. It’s usually a blend that changes throughout the year — to maintain a good profile throughout the year is quite a challenge, even to professionals. So cheers on them for that. “The packing and distribution has to be good, because what I tasted from their coffees was freshness. Espressos are only fresh for less than a month, literally you’ve got about two weeks to get the peak flavour out of it. So that’s very good on them for distribution and logistics. “And then, for the barista, that’s the final portion of it. If they don’t do the product justice, then you’ll never know how good it could be.”

Coffee Number 4 — Malongo

Coffee Number 5 — Punto Italia

Coffee Number 6 — Caffé Vergnano 1882

Espresso:

“That’s a proper espresso… oh, it crashes on the finish. It’s like a car going too fast down a deadend road” — Will

“This is a little bit stronger than the others, it’s quite different” — Truc

“There’s something grapey or raisiny about the aftertaste” — Will

“[Eating a blue cheese spread bagel] It’s a little blue cheese and bagely” — Will

[The rest of us are busy, recalibrating scores]

“Maybe I’m a thrill seeker, but I like this one best so far” — Ed Score: Acidity: 3.4 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.9 // Balance: 3.6// Body: 3.8

Score: Acidity: 2.6 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.5 // Balance: 3.3 // Body: 3.8

Cappuccino:

“[Sips with deadening taste buds] It’s a bit of a disadvantage to go number 6” — Andy

“It’s like powdered baker’s chocolate — with no sugar” — Will

“This is creamy and silky, it lingers but doesn’t loiter” — Will “It’s weird how I’m kind of tired, but so awake! [eyes bulging]” — Ed

Score: Acidity: 2.5 // Aroma/Flavour: 2.8 // Balance: 4.0 // Body: 3.8

Score: Acidity: 1.8 // Aroma/Flavour: 2.6 // Balance: 2.9 // Body: 2.6

Score: Acidity: 1.9 // Aroma/Flavour: 3.4 // Balance: 3.5 // Body: 3.9

And the winner is: Best Cappuccino: Malongo The Top Three: Malongo (4.1), Hausbrandt (4.0), Caffé Vergnano 1882 (3.9)

eat & drink

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round-up

Vegetarian Hanoi A dedicated herbivore, Katie Jacobs gives us the insiders view on eating vegetarian cuisine in the capital. Photos by Thiep Nguyen January 2014 Word | 97

njoying Vietnamese food while avoiding meat can be a challenge. Especially in the meat-loving north where admitting you’re vegetarian often spurs a similar response to announcing you’ve caught a deadly disease: a mixture of pity and confusion as to how this could have happened. The following is a list of street food and small restaurants where a vegetarian can somewhat integrate one’s self into the wonderful culture and atmosphere that is Vietnamese food.

Street Food Bun Dau Corner of Ngo Tram and Ha Trung near Cho Hang Da, Hoan Kiem Freshly cooked by roving street stalls throughout the day, bun dau is a saviour for vegetarians in search of street food. So long as you like tofu. A plate of cold bun (noodles) is served with an abundance of fresh herbs, lime, chilli and freshly fried tofu that is crispy on the outside and smooth as silk on the inside. Make sure to specify “no meat” otherwise watch out for fried pork masquerading as tofu. Like many Vietnamese dishes, this will come with shrimp or fish-based sauce on the side, easily avoided if you wish. If you don’t fancy the stuff on the street you can try the small, busy ‘restaurant’ on Ha Trung which is open for lunch. Banh Cuon Chay On the right hand side of Tran Huy Lieu, Dong Da, one block from Kim Ma Banh cuon is a rice paper crepe (of some sort) that is understated and, in my opinion, usually underrated. At the place on Tran Huy Lieu, you can see them making the fresh crepes by rapidly spreading and flipping the thin white sheets over a steamer. The result is a subtly-flavoured, warm slimy dish that tastes much better than it sounds. It is served with herbs, chilli and a steaming bowl of fish-based sauce on the side. The banh cuon chay comes with dried onion (ask for extra) — I strongly recommend taking soy sauce to compensate for the fish sauce. Bia Hoi snacks Bia Hoi on the southern corner of Tran Phu and Ngo 34A Tran Phu, Hoan Kiem Bia Hoi near the northern corner of Bat Dan and Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem Bia Hois vary in the amount and quality of food they offer but the majority will at least have a couple of vegetarian options to go with your ice cold beer (or beer with ice). Fried tofu and morning glory with garlic can be found at most places, but for more interesting options these two joints (open most afternoons and evenings) have extensive menus in English. Banh Trang Nuong 48 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, open in the evening

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If you have a hankering for both pizza and Vietnamese food then banh trang nuong is the dish for you. Often described as Vietnamese pizza, this unique dish from Dalat is a large round sheet of rice paper that is grilled with various toppings. There is a tasty vegetarian option with an egg on top. Fried Rice / Noodles If you are not too concerned about: a) meat touching your food or b) the occasional sprinkle of fish sauce, then you can usually grab a tasty dish at any of the small places serving fried rice or noodles where they will happily cook you up a plate of something with a few veggies and no meat. The noodles are usually the better option (particularly fresh pho noodles), but avoid ordering my which are just fried instant noodles. Instant noodles have a high salt content.

Restaurants Com Chay Nang Tam 79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem This small restaurant is either delicious

or slightly off-putting depending on how you feel about fake meat, the staple of many vegetarian or Buddhist restaurants in Hanoi. However, they make nice nem ran chay (fried vegetarian spring rolls) which I am always excited about, and I recommend the lunchtime meal plan if you’re a fan of dishes such as vegan pate. It is generally agreed that faux-meat was created to make carnivores feel welcome when eating Buddhist food and Com Chay Nanh Tam does this well. This place is a particular favourite of my meat-loving dining partner. Loving Hut 192/4 Quan Thanh, Ba Dinh; 18/71 Nguyen Hong, Dong Da Possibly better known for its close association with a spiritual movement rather than its food, the Loving Hut restaurants in Hanoi are part of an international vegan restaurant chain. Offering solid, cheap and tasty vegan meals in a slightly cramped but clean space, Loving Hut is a great place to grab a quick lunch or informal dinner. The menu is extensive and there are many options that don’t involve faux-meat.

May Trang (White Cloud) 2 Ngo 12, Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Serving up excellent food (and I don’t just mean for vegetarians), May Trang earns its reputation as one of the best vegan places in Hanoi. This small, non-descript place close to the Syrena Centre has a wonderful menu that avoids the two things that are often the downfall of many vegetarian restaurants — too much fake meat and not enough flavour. Order anything — it’s all delicious.

Dessert Thankfully dessert is the one Vietnamese food option that does not include fish sauce (as far as I know). Hanoi has many places to try, but my favourites, which are open from around 10am to 10pm, are as follows: Kem Xoi and Sua Chua Hoa Qua On the north side of Tran Phu just before the corner with Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh Offering a sweet, gooey mix of sticky rice, ice-cream, and desiccated coconut, Kem

Xoi always wins in the dessert category. There are places scattered around the city but this particular one also serves good sua chua hoa qua, which is yogurt, ice, small jellies and fresh fruit, usually mit (jack fruit). Che Near the corner of Hang Da and Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem If you have somehow not yet tried this dessert, which is an odd assortment of jellies covered in coconut cream and served with ice, you are missing out. Be warned that not all che is created equal, but this place is a safe bet. You will recognise it by the table with many coloured bowls laid out containing the jelly — choose which ones look appealing or just go for them all at once. Bo bia ngot Side of the road, usually along Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Served on the side of the road from the back of a bike, this incredibly sweet snack of small pancake rolled around

honeycomb, coconut and poppy seeds (no, there is no beer involved) makes for a delectable treat with a great texture combination. Don’t be tempted to eat more than one, you will regret it.

Useful Points Khong thit literally means no meat and is an essential phrase that usually gets the point across. Make sure to say it a few times or write it down. An chay means to eat vegetarian and although it is a useful word to know, I find “khong thit” to be more effective. Unless you are eating in a vegan restaurant, nuoc mam or fish sauce is served with pretty much everything and dishes without it can seem slightly bland. So I recommend carrying sachets of soy sauce to compensate. On the first and 15th of the lunar month many restaurants will offer more vegetarian options and Buddhist restaurants usually serve vegan buffets. For many more vegetarian options around the city, search for Hanoi on the Happy Cow website: happycow.net

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eat & drink

“The younger generation were after somewhere to hang out and have a drink. Vietnamese don’t want to go to western bars as they are not friendly for them. They don’t feel comfortable there”

Ahoy! 100 | Word January 2014

MOB Beer Club

trends

Beer Club Evolution You may or may not have noticed it but thirsty Saigon professionals have found a new home â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the beer club. Derek Milroy reports. Photos by Kyle Phanroy January 2014 Word | 101

Shooters

hen the beer house Vuvuzela opened up in April with its Hooters-style uniform for the female staff, it sparked a change in the city’s drinking culture. With a growing urge for professional workers to forge a scene of their own, a scene that falls somewhere in between top-end bars and street-side quan nhau, they spotted their opportunity. Now the city boasts half a dozen such beer houses with similar themes. Some like Shooters and Vuvuzela go for the more revealing staff uniforms, others like Ahoy take a different approach — Ahoy has their staff dress in sailors’ outfits. During the day it’s all about beer drinking, food and chat. At night the pumping dance music takes over, even more beer hits the tables, and the mandatory food and light bites come to the fore. But most important is the environment. Modern, aircon, attractive beer-influenced décor, but without the prices of nightclubs or top-end bars. As beer club regular Mark — who confesses, “I have a lot of time on my hands” — explains, expats are not part of this scene. They are welcome, but are very much outsiders, mere scenery. “All of these places like Vuvuzela and Shooters are Vietnamese hang outs; there are at most a handful of foreigners. If you had 10 percent of foreigners at one of these places I’d be surprised,” he says. “You’ll see Vietnamese going to clubs at night, but there was no place for them to go during the day

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time until these places came around. The working lunch needed a venue and this is it.” Thuy, a Shooters regular, explains that the younger Saigonese lacked a suitable venue. A lot of them rejected western bars downtown, but now they feel they have found their home. “The younger generation were after somewhere to hang out and have a drink,” she says. “Vietnamese don’t want to go to western bars as they are not friendly for them. They don’t feel comfortable there, but when they come to places like Shooters, they like this kind of music, they like hanging out, drinking and dancing. It’s fun.” One thing that puzzles Mark, though, is where these Vietnamese beer club regulars went before they joined the scene. The Toronto native’s own experience of these types of bars was at Hooters, the infamous North American franchise. He is surprised by how quickly the scene has taken off, but he believes it makes perfect sense. He still hears the occasional mot hai ba, but the beer clubs have a more upmarket crowd. “There was nowhere for Vietnamese to drink in the daytime indoors,” he explains. “So the beer club owners came up with this concept of air-conditioned bars. I think they had the first place in Hanoi — Vuvuzela — which was a success, and two weeks after this place opened it was packed. You come here at night and you can’t get a seat. It is standing room only and this is a pretty big

place. If you don’t book a table, be prepared to stand if there is any space left. I’d say the guys who opened these places are pioneers on tapping the Vietnamese drinking market.”

A Real Hoot Mark was first alerted when he saw a post on Facebook site Another Side of Vietnam that explained that Vuvuzela was a Vietnamese attempt at Hooters, so he ended up googling Vuvuzela and showed up. As a regular beer drinker he found not only a great bar but the drinks promo of a lifetime — VND550,000 for 100 beers with a VIP card. “As soon as I found out about the deal on the 100 beers, my friends and I bought 10 cards between us and we didn’t need to worry about paying for the beer, just the food,” he says. “Some of the beer clubs let you use the 100 beers voucher if you pay for food, but you are only allowed 10 beers per visit. Shooters does the same thing for VND600,000 without the food requirement. The promotions were effective in getting people through the door. It worked for me.” What about the ladies? Mark, a 13-year Saigon veteran, has noticed many changes when it comes to ladies going to a bar. It is night and day compared to a decade ago. “These beer clubs are places where a lot of Vietnamese women go,” he says. “10 years ago most women would never go to bars. But in the beer clubs loads of Vietnamese women of all ages are coming in groups and drinking beer. This never existed before. Before people would open a beer hall, there

Vuvuzela

would be no aircon apart from the VIP room, but since these places started popping up the women are coming. They are more female friendly. Maybe it is going from coffee culture to beer culture.” Ahoy regulars My and Thuy agree. My says, “Yes, Vietnamese ladies enjoy coming to bars like this. I like it, and I like to drink beer with the boys.” “These places are for more professional people,” Thuy says. “My Vietnamese friends come to places like this every day. They don’t care about money, they care about [having fun]. The beer is cheap compared to their lifestyle. My friends, girls and guys, can come to Shooters every day, they can start drinking at 6pm or 7pm and end the night about 9pm and go home and sleep, wake up, go to work. It is kind of cool. I like it here. A place to relax after work for a while.” She insists that Viet Kieu and other Saigonese who have spent time abroad studying or travelling in Europe understand western culture, but they put their own take on these type of bars. “Westerners would rather go somewhere quiet and drink beer and talk,” she explains. “Vietnamese like to have fun and loud music, and talk nonsense. Maybe sometimes it is better we don’t hear each other. We don’t want to care about work and just want to laugh and have fun.”

Riding the Wave Once Vuvuzela had made an impact, a lot of businesses followed suit with Beer Republic

sprouting up across from Saigon Square, Beer and Grill further down Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Ahoy at the foot of Pasteur in the banking area of the city, Shooters in District 3’s Le Quy Don and MOB across from the Reunification Palace. All these places have their own beer promotions to get the punters in the door. “It seems like the marketing campaigns are trying to target every market,” says Mark. “You have the cheap charlies who are buying the VIP cards for 100 draughts, which normally cost VND30,000 each. There is also a market for high-end beers, imported Belgian beers in some places. There are the beer towers — [many customers] love that gimmick. In Vuvuzela there is a two-way mirror so you can see the other customers when using the toilet. Some people are not sure it is a toilet.” And the food? Most places offer Vietnamese and foreign-style food. Two guys I met at Vuvuzela were having rice dishes on one plate with Russian-style pork on another. Hien was making his big beer club debut. “This is my first time here,” he says. “This place is famous and I want to try it. My friend told me about Vuvuzela and it is great. You can come here during daylight and stay late. We are eating some western and some Vietnamese food, so we don’t get too drunk.” Huy from Ahoy feels safer in a beer club than he would in a more ‘dangerous’ western bar where he is scared a fight could break out at any time. “I have come here many times,” he says.

“I come to relax after work. If I’m frustrated or stressed I come to chill out. It is a nice place, has aircon, good beer and the price is not expensive. Vietnamese people are more comfortable here. The bars full of westerners are too dangerous. Maybe when they are drunk they want to beat you.”

Information If you want to head for your beer club fix, check out one of these city venues:

B eer

and

G rill (BG S aigon )

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1

S hooters B eer H ouse 31 Le Quy Don, Q1

V uvuzela

11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1; A43 Truong Son, Tan Binh

MOB B eer C lub

152 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1

B eer R epublic

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1

A hoy B eer C lub

79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1

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MYSTERY DINER hanoi

KAfe

THE VERDICT

Some new restaurants hit the market with a bang. Others take time to settle in. Our undercover reporter heads to the newly opened KAfe to see if the talk is more than just hype. Photos by Francis Roux

t’s Sunday afternoon and I’m squeezing into a corner seat at the KAfe, marvelling at the number of people packed into the narrow industrial-style room. They all seem to be eating the same things: burgers stacked on wooden boards, fresh juices in Mason jars, pink macaroons. Hip hop is blaring over the speakers. “You see there’s leaders, and there’s followers,” Kanye tells us. The KAfe definitively falls into the former category. The cuisine is headed up by chef Joel Manton, whose work you might recognise from Pots ‘n Pans, and the kitchen turns out an eclectic array of western dishes that appeal to Vietnamese consumers as much as to expats. The new winter menu offers hearty fare, like roast chicken with mashed potatoes and baked penne with cheddar and cauliflower, as well as a rotating selection of soups. But some of the best dishes are longstanding classics.

Melt in your Mouth Some customers return time and again for the fettuccine with beef ragu (VND160,000), which gets its own page on the glossy menu. There’s a good reason: beef is cooked until it falls apart into

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tender strands, then spooned over homemade noodles that soak up the juices. Bathed in herb-infused butter, this ragu is the kind of dish that reduces even the most dignified diner to sheepish slurping. Picking over the menu for a side of vegetables takes some work, but I take a leap of faith and go for the “sauteed seasonal greens” (VND30,000). In most restaurants, this turns out to be a losing proposition. But at the KAfe, it turns out, the dish is misadvertised: there’s far more than green to this vibrant bowl full of mushrooms, carrots, zucchini and other seasonal odds and ends, all flavoured with a generous handful of garlic. For dessert, there are colorful macarons and cupcakes baked in-house. A lot of tables order spiced waffles, then pick at them, apparently confused as to what to do with the daunting squares. I order bittersweet chocolate pudding (VND50,000), a rich, dense cup of thick pudding infused with orange liqueur and flecks of peel. It’s a dessert you might find in a far more elegant restaurant -- except for the biscotti garnishing the presentation, which seems to have spent so much time in the oven it shrunk into barely more than a burnt crumb. It’s

one of the few mistakes in a mostly seamless meal, which makes it stick out all the more. Price, too, determines satisfaction. At the KAfe, most prices are surprisingly reasonable, even more so when you consider that many of the tapas-style dishes are meant to be shared. You’ll pay more than you will for street food, of course, but far less than at western restaurants half as good. That fettuccine could compete with the best pastas in town. By that standard, it’s a bargain. If the KAfe’s inventive spelling doesn’t announce its modernist ambitions, those are made clear by the exposed brick walls and industrial cement floor, as well as the furniture carved from unpolished wood. It’s an aesthetic echoed by clothing boutique Antiq downstairs, and one that’s very much an anomaly on this section of bustling Dien Bien Phu, a neighbourhood with few artistic or humorous tendencies. But there are indications that this is changing. On the wall outside, in what might be Hanoi’s largest mural, a fluffy canine says, “I smell cupcakes, dawg!” The KAfe is at 18 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

12 Food

Service

10 Décor

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

street snacker hanoi

Ngan Nuong Barbecued Muscovy duck is the perfect tonic for a cold winter’s night. Words by Elisabeth Rosen. Photos by Francis Roux

he kindergarten courtyard is packed tonight, but there’s not a child in sight. Locals slurp noodles at plastic tables, surrounded by pastel murals in loopy, childish handwriting. In Hanoi, space is a valuable commodity. Why waste a perfectly good enclosure just because it’s traditionally used for another purpose — especially in such a prime location? So every night, after the children leave, this cozy schoolyard on the edge of the Old Quarter turns into a lively restaurant. As the crooked Quan Ngan Hien sign hanging in the doorway indicates, the specialty is ngan. Often mistranslated on Vietnamese restaurant menus as swan or goose, ngan is in fact Muscovy duck. Its meat is leaner and more tender than regular duck, lending itself equally well to the grill and the stewpot. You’ll find the eponymous Hien, 53, chopping boiled ngan just inside the entrance with the rapid fingerwork acquired from years working at a food and beverage manufacturing company. The idea to open a ngan nuong, or barbecued Muscovy duck joint, occurred to her in

1990, as many entrepreneurs were opening shops and restaurants in response to the sweeping economic reforms that loosened restrictions on small businesses. Hien was on maternity leave, and she used the time to do some market research — of sorts. “I tried ngan nuong in a few restaurants. I thought it was yummy, so I gave it a try!” the native Hanoian says. Many street eateries serve Muscovy duck meat boiled in soup. Signs for bun mien ngan, shorthand for bun or mien noodles served in ngan broth, can be found all over the city. But grilled ngan is, um, a rarer bird. To make the dish, Hien immerses fresh ngan meat in a homemade marinade of garlic, oyster sauce and soy sauce for an hour or two before grilling it over charcoal. Other places might steam or boil the meat first, but hers, she says with pride, is so fresh it doesn’t need to be cooked in advance. Charred but still tender, the bite-size morsels are served on a zesty bed of bean sprouts and pickled cucumber.

Licks of the Trade Like bun cha, the dish comes with a warm dipping sauce and rice vermicelli. But

when asked what’s in the sauce, Hien shakes her head, unwilling to compromise trade secrets. A sniff, however, is revelatory: a whiff of nuoc mam, along with the unmistakable aroma of pickled bamboo shoots. Those shoots play the starring role in canh mang, a golden broth of bamboo and boiled ngan stock that not only rounds out the meal but also makes an ideal warmer on a chilly evening. The herb-flecked soup comes heaped with stewed meat and thick slices of tiet luoc, blood boiled until crimson and gelatinous. You can add either bun or mien, threadlike glass noodles made from mung bean flour. If you prefer your soup deconstructed, order the noodles, meat and broth served separately (bun cham). Emerging from the restaurant into the windy night, it’s hard not to look back wistfully. Maybe Hien didn’t choose the kindergarten location solely because of space constraints. The warm lighting and decorations make this setting feel cosier than the typical sidewalk eatery — almost like home. Quan Ngan Hien is at 75 Hang Bong (near the corner of Phu Doan), Hoan Kiem. It’s open from around 6pm to 10pm

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eat & drink

I The Many Faces of Com Tam street snacker hcmc

n Saigon, eating com tam is an obsession. The dish — bitty rice and barbecued pork with untold variations — can be found everywhere. Yet, this is a dish with such character that no place does it quite like the next. So, time to leave the comfort zone and meet the many faces of this uniquely Saigonese stomach-filler.

Lovingly Local

The Saigonese dish with personality, com tam is found everywhere. But what can you expect? Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Com Tam 40A 40A Quoc Huong, Q2 Price: VND20,000 for com tam suon It’s messy, it’s in the front room of someone’s house, it’s in the heart of Thao Dien — and damn it’s tasty. For those of you living in District 2 who don’t know this com tam joint, you are seriously missing out. It’s one of the best local-style joints in town and it’s constantly crowded to boot. Positives: the rice is perfectly steamed, the ribs are meaty without being too thickly cut, the rice is served up with pickled cabbage, a nice touch, and the other dishes like thit heo quay and canh kho qua that go with the rice are rich without being overpowering. The negative? Only one. The fish sauce and the mashed chilli, ot xay, could be better. Not that this is a complaint — it’s a quibble. A gem of an eatery in the most unlikely of places.

Old ‘n Saucy Com Tam 114 114 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Price: VND30,000 with suon, VND60,000 with bo kho I’ve never tasted the suon here, but why would I when the com tam bo kho option (bitty rice with beef casserole) is so good. The rice is fragrant and slightly sweet, the bo kho is thick and oily like an Indian curry, yet the stock is rich and complex. Here when they serve beef they mean it. You don’t just get a few chunks of meat for good measure, you get a healthy chunk of cow. Established in 1956, this skinny, unassuming joint has a rightful reputation for good com tam. They’ve certainly earned it.

Big ‘n Brutal

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Ba Ghien 84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan Price: VND33,000 for com tam suon You want it big ‘n full on? You want the heat of the streets of Saigon? And you want it fancooled? You don’t mind the sound of women’s voices screeching over your head and you’re hungry, damn hungry. You want huge chicken drumsticks and heavy weight-sized slabs of pork rib. There is only one place to satisfy your lust for large-portioned, gluttonishly tasty com tam, and that is Ba Ghien. Big but tender, brutal but filling, naughty but infinitely nice. This place is an institution.

Big ‘n Brutal

Forever Famous

Modern ‘n Industrial

Com Tam Thuan Kieu 9 114 Yersin, Q1 Price: VND36,000 for com tam suon, VND4,000 extra for each bowl of pickles You want a place not just resting on its laurels? Only Thuan Kieu will do. The original location, just round the corner from Cho Ray Hospital — what better dish can you think of to uplift the spirits of injured bodies and souls — has become so ingrained in the com tam annals of the city that there are now nine (or is it 10?) branches around Saigon. The secret? The softest, sweetest tasting barbecued pork you’ll ever have the pleasure to put your teeth into, a range of super tasty pickles on the side (including Vietnamese kim chi), and prices that while not cheap avoid extortion. And don’t forget the bowl of canh, pork broth, on the side. A nice palate-cleansing touch. I went to branch number nine to see just how far down the food chain Thuan Kieu could extend their reach. Despite the in-your-face colour scheme — garish, it’s decorated in green and yellow — it was just as good as the first.

Grillbar 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Price: VND95,000 for Grillbar-style suon For the aircon version, I was going to head to the chain, Com Tam Moc, but an online Vietnamese reviewer had already put the multi-store eatery in its place. “Expensive and you have to wait for ages,” she wrote. “Only suitable for foreigners.” Hmmm. So instead I headed to Grillbar, a little favourite of mine, a place that really does attract foreigners. In the com tam stakes this place is expensive — just under VND100,000 for the barbecued meat with rice. But then here you’re paying for quality — have you tried their Vietnamese bacon? — the Ben Thanh Market location and most importantly, setting. The setting is New York and Londonindustrial, rolled into one. There are nice little touches here, too. The com tam comes with salad — a departure from the typical tomato and cucumber — and hearing music over the sound system rather than being aurally bombarded with the rough and tumble of a typical Saigon eatery is a pleasant change.

Old ‘n Saucy

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fashion

TUSKS & DUST This month’s model isn’t wearing someone else’s inspiration — she’s showcasing her own. The bronze, leather and market materials hanging from her ears and neck and intertwined in her braids reach a natural compromise with her own look. “The woman that I envision wearing my jewellery is a strong, independent warrior woman,” writes Amanda Wotring about TUSKS & DUST. But the woman she shows us also finds comfort in her surroundings, and an effortless balance with her world’s elements.

Photos and Styling by Francis Xavier Modelling by Amanda Wotring Designs will soon be available for sale on facebook.com/tusks.and.dust

Head chain: VND550,000

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Earrings: VND200,000

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Body chain: VND350,000

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travel

cambodia

Beautiful Bays A and Haunted Hotels Tourism in the Mekong region has a natural emphasis on water, but Francis Xavier discovers other highlights in southern Cambodia

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s a girl who rarely travels anywhere — especially outside of Vietnam — being invited by Mekong Tourism to Kampot, Cambodia for the 9th World Congress of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World is something quite out there. Not only was I supposed to see one of “the most beautiful bays in the world” for the first time, I was supposed to shoot it in a way that matches its beauty. So I packed my bags, and jumped on a Sapaco bus to Phnom Penh at 6am with three cameras — my trusty DSLR, a small point-and-shoot and a Holga-like toy camera — and a tripod, to make sure I wouldn’t miss a thing. Just off the bus, we met a representative from the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism, who hustled us onto a van heading to Bokor Mountain, where the conference was happening. His name was Narong, and he said that first we had to stop at the airport to pick up a few more people. 20 minutes later Narong jogged back to our van, as some others got into the vehicles in front. He subtly

pointed to one, saying, “Look, the King.” We found ourselves in the escort crew of the King — which king I didn’t really know. We followed six other black vans and SUVs, going 100km per hour down to the mountains of southern Cambodia, sharp turns left and right the whole three hours. The road hugged the hill when we got close, a guard every 200 metres. I could see the sunlight shining on us, disappearing and reappearing over and over. As my friend said, “It’s like we’re chasing the sun.”

The Hill Station When we arrived at Bokor Mountain — a cool-weather colonial French hill station, about 42km from Kampot — there were already 300 people there for the event. Whichever king we came with got swallowed

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up by a bunch of black suits as we made our way in. We were checked into the Thansur Bokor Highland Resort, one of the only inhabited places in this slowly-reviving former ghost town only a few kilometres from beautiful Veal Rinh Bay, the body of water on the Cambodian side of Phu Quoc. As many people as there were for the conference, our journalist group was only six. This gave me good access to the important people we were there to meet, including most of the tourism ministers in Southeast Asia and other powerful people in the industry. But it wasn’t nearly as revealing as taking a walk around Bokor. Next morning we visited the Bokor Palace Hotel — site of 2002 creepy Hollywood thriller City of Ghosts, and maybe home to some real ones — and other abandoned

colonial buildings around the area. The weather on the mountain was cool enough for a light jacket day or night. The sun was always shining, like spring weather. Most of the buildings in the ruins were built in the 1920s to cater to the wealthy, but in the upheaval of the next decades they were abandoned by the French, and then for good in the 1970s as the Khmer Rouge took over the area. The buildings had a haunted look, yet were strangely beautiful. Ageblackened walls and high grass all over the place, even though there was some furniture that showed the buildings were still in use. In the backyard of the hotel, on top of the hill, I could see the entire Veal Rinh Bay down below, then the sea — and a bit further away, partially hidden under the clouds, Phu Quoc.

Adventure Time in Kampot After the conference was over, I was again knocked around the van as we navigated the sharp turns down the mountain, heading to nearby Kampot. This time there weren’t any guards. Kampot is a little town by the bay, filled with French colonial architecture. Along the bay, abandoned French villas lie untouched, ruined — urban explorers out there should take note. Some buildings are being renovated, as hotels or villas, keeping their original look. These large homes fit well with their surroundings. We had the driver drop us off for a walk around town, doing the “adventure time” thing for a few hours. We wandered around all these anonymous, interesting buildings, enjoying the feeling of being

in a different era. Residents have made use of the buildings by turning them into the signature look of Kampot. Some have been transformed into boutique hotels, like The Columns (37 Phoum 1 Ouksophear); many were turned into coffee shops, like my favourite, Epic Arts Café (67 Oosaupia Muoy), which provides work and hangout opportunities for deaf students. We managed to visit a completely renovated villa in nearby Kep called Villa Romonea (Prey Thom, Kep Thmei). The crescent-shaped villa is white with a pool out back facing the beach. The windows on the second floor were all opened and filled with butterflies and other insects. As if in perfect harmony with nature, so close even the bugs loved it. Property manager Stéphane continued

on this theme, describing the outside of the villa as like the skin of a dragon, which defends it from its enemies. The back is the belly, where all the good things are. Its openness to the refreshing nature it’s surrounded by is one of the good things — the heat and ocean breezes making you want to sit down, have an ice-cold glass of lemonade and enjoy this good life — or feel good about life. During the trip I kept seeing signs and banners around Kampot, saying, “It’s paradise.” At first I thought them odd, but after getting to know this town, I started thinking that maybe they’re right. I came to the area for the bay, and that’s what the people at the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism showed me. But what I found on this trip was much more than just that.

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travel

japan

The Stopover Ed Weinberg spends three hours and VND800,000 in Japan’s Narita Airport, and all he gets is this crappy T-shirt

start off my 40-hour trans-Pacific journey at 11.40pm from Ho Chi Minh City. Six hours later I’m in Japan. I’ve never been before, and I’m excited — even if it’s just for three hours. I’m travelling with a friend, but I let her head to the next gate without me. The smiling duty-free shill catches my attention, a handbag dangling from her perfectly crooked elbow. It’s like the mall of Japan, which I figure is as good a place to start as any. “Airports have their own cultures,” an airplane seatmate of mine later says, and it strikes me as particularly true of developed countries such as Japan, where small-timers have a hard time breaking in. “Or rather, they boil their own culture down to ‘we eat this, we relax like this, we observe this type of hygiene in our bathrooms, the biggest

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contribution we’ve made to the world is this — as pictured on this magnet’.”

A Short Introduction First off, I’m disappointed by the vending machines. Not that I expected — or would buy! — dirty underwear, but I did expect to be able to use my credit card in the coinops. There isn’t even a credit card-operated change machine, and eggs, cats and Star Wars lasers tease me from their windows. As I walk over the pleasing curves of carpet pattern, I’m screamed at by light and colour, but not sound. A placid vacuum spreads over the airport’s halls as people look this way and that, transfixed. I stop into the first store I see, and look down the wall of 100 novelty watches. There isn’t really a point in life I’d feel the need to acquire even one of them, but I’m also not the target demo for their six different colours of neck cushion or their seven varieties of ‘solar’ bobblehead. Underneath the bobbleheads, the words ‘no batteries’ are written — as if battery-powered is the default state of most things. In another store, a whole row is taken up by breath-moistening facemasks, “for a comfortable flight”. A woman explaining sweets to me laughs after every comment — “You know mochi? Hahahahaha.” I take sides in a comparison tasting of Suntory v. Yamisaki whiskey. Yamisaki wins hands down, now that Bill Murray’s not around to stump for its competitor. Around the taped-up pornography in the magazine shop, there’s a “No photos please!” sign. I’m guessing this is a problem. Knee socks, and less sushi than I expected.

Was I Ever There? I pick up several boxes of glutinous cakes in pleasing pastels — somehow more gift-motivated by these three tourist hours here than my previously uninterrupted 11 months in Vietnam. I get my mother a weeble-wobbling lucky cat toy. I pass on the gel-insert breasts mouse pad. As I make my way to the gate I catch sight of the distant tree line, looking out of place across the endless tarmac. But it strikes me — I’ve been looking at the same products I’ve seen elsewhere in the world, and reading symbolism into them that I wouldn’t in different contexts. On my stopover in Chicago, I head into the men’s washroom. In one of the stalls, I see a strange plastic cover on the toilet seat. As I swipe my hand past the sensor, the plastic covering rotates a full arc around the seat, leaving me a hygienic landing. I Facebook it with the caption “Japan Airlines!!” In the comments, my friend writes, “Korean as well!”

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travel

Our distribution outlets. Look for the colour closest to you for a copy of Word magazine. It's free just as all other good things in life.

Airlines

travel Dalat ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888 anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three– night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006 cucphuongtourism.com

Dalat Green City Hotel 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th– century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 385622 etoile-des-mers.com

LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com

Dalat Train Villa Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: (0218) 386 8959 maichaulodge.com

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108 novotelhalong.com.vn

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

Around Hanoi BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031) 388 0888 pearlriverhotel.vn

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Tam Coc Garden Resort Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu, Ninh Binh, Tel: (030) 249 2118 reservation@tamcocgarden.com tamcocgarden.com Lying amidst the nature of Ninh Binh, a region referred to as ‘Halong Bay on land’, Tam Coc Garden is a paradise of peace, serenity and understated luxury. A pool to a backdrop of limestone peaks as well as elegantly

spacious rooms with fantastic rice field views guarantee relaxation and comfort.

Hanoi - International CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel. com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to cre-

ate a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

Air Asia www.airasia.com

Air France 3733 0808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

Air Mekong 1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

American Airlines INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental. com This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi. com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 www.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

Hanoi – Mid-Range 6 ON SIXTEEN

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter,

194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

Cathay Pacific 5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/ vn

China Airlines 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

Japan Airlines 3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com/vn

Korean Air 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

Lao Airlines 93 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

Malaysia Airlines Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines. com

Singapore Airlines Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

Thai Airways 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

Tiger Airways www.tigerairways.com

Vietnam Airlines 27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

Want to add more information to your listing? Get in touch and let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including four suites.

THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL 1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com

Hanoi – Budget HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

EQUATORIAL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino.

HCMC - International CARAVELLE HOTEL

MAY DE VILLE

caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

travel

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

PARK HYATT

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON

PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822

$$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686 pullmanhotels.com Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix.

REX HOTEL

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now five-star property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

RIVERSIDE HOTEL

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French ar-

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel chitectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.

is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

DUNA HOTEL

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

HONG HOA HOTEL

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888 starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - Deluxe CONTINENTAL

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5517 majesticsaigon.com.vn

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 656/52 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: (08) 3846 0263 mamaison.vn

NORFOLK HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and

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$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699 dunahotel.com

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915 honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

Hoi An & Danang An Bang Beach Retreat An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com

CUA DAI

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800 danangbeachresort.com.vn

HCMC - Mid-Range FURAMA RESORT AND SPA ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914 kimdohotel.com

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926 lanlanhotel.com.vn

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966 alcovehotel.com.vn

HCMC - Budget DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888 furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI

$$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 354 5105 domainedetamhai.com

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 391 4555 life-resorts.com

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777 mercure-danang.com

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: (0511) 395 8888 pullman-danang.com Located on the white sands of Bac My An beach close

to both Danang and Hoi An, the welcoming and modern Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for a dynamic escape. Perfect for a family holiday or a romantic beach getaway.

THE NAM HAI

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736 hoangphuonghotel.com

Nha Trang EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre– programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

$$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222 sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/ destination 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort and Spa

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510) 392 7040 victoriahotels.asia

Hue & Lang Co ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888 banyantree.com/en/ lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6567 hanoibackpackershostel. com

IMPERIAL HUE

$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: (054) 388 2222 imperial-hotel.com.vn

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475 la–residence–hue.com

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666 mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900 novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh Van Bay $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222 sixsenses.com/resorts/ ninh-van-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000 sheraton.com/nhatrang

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 382 0999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: (058) 384 0501 whaleislandresort.com

Phan Thiet & Mui Ne ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and Spa

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 374 3777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322 life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440 miamuine.com

PRINCESS D’ANNAM RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222 princessannam.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000 victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 374 1660 villaariamuine.com

travel Phong Nha Easy Tiger and Jungle Bar

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail. com A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

Ho Khanh's Homestay

$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com

Pepper House

$ Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com

Phong Nha Farmstay

$$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135 phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

Phong Nha Lake Resort

$$ Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com

Saigon - Phong Nha

$$$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo. com.vn

Thanh Dat

$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7328 thanhdatphongnha.com

Phu Quoc BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang, Tel: (077) 399 5895 centarahotelsresorts.com

LA VERANDA

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: (077) 398 2988 laverandaresorts.com

MANGO BAY

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

Sapa CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871218 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big win-

dows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia THE VILLAGE NOSHERY 42 Cau May, Sapa www.thevillagenoshery.com

Vung Tau & Ho Tram BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553 binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939 condaoresort.vn

with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135 rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888 thegrandhotramstrip.com The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and ultimately will include a 1,100-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities. The first 541-room tower of this development opened in July 2013 with its casino including 90 live tables and 614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room tower is on track to open in 2015.

Travel Services — Hanoi BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

HANDSPAN TRAVEL 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

EXOTISSIMO 26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5555 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings

HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844 www.hgtravel.com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come

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travel airways.com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy. com).

DALAT EASY RIDER 70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat dalat-easyrider.com

EXOTISSIMO INDOCHINA LAND 61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

SYRENA CRUISES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLY VIETNAM flyvietnam.com

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE 108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org

ONE WORLD TRADING SERVICE TOURISM Co. 28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 oneworldvn.com

TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

TU TRAVEL

Travel Services – Elsewhere BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

124 | Word January 2014

Promotions of the Month

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

Travel Promos

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

Dalat Edensee dalatedensee.com Nowhere within a day trip’s radius of Ho Chi Minh City gives you quite the ‘going away’ experience that Dalat Edensee can give, with its mountain views and indoor luxuries. For Tet, they’re stacking the traditions — with an ong do (old scholar with exquisite handwriting) who will write you ancient Vietnamese words of wisdom to keep; mua lan, a unicorn dance; li xi, red envelopes containing lucky money for the first day of Tet; traditional Tet meals; plum-wine cocktails; music and a magic show. Get in on the traditions of Edensee, starting at only VND5.3 million per couple, for a two-night, three-day stay from Jan. 29 to Feb. 9.

Boutique D’Hanoi @Maison D’Hanoi hanovahotel.com Winter is coming to Hanoi, and with it comes cozy hotel rooms with the heat turned way up, and the occasional warming glass of red wine. Maison

D’Hanoi is throwing more than just these essentials your way this winter, with a VND1,080,000++ room rate on a twoperson, one-night stay — valid until Mar. 31, 2014. With this sturdy deal comes a 20 percent discount on spa services, a 10 percent food and beverage discount and all the pillow fluffing you could hope for.

Beach Living @ Laguna Lang Co lagunalangco.com Nestled within Laguna Lang Co stands a fully integrated residential development close to Banyan Tree and Angsana hotels and spas, and the 18-hole golf course, facilities for conventions and a plethora of other recreational offerings. Your very own residence start from US$350,000 (VND7.35 billion), including one and two-bedroom beachfront locations. Only a short distance from UNESCO World Heritage sites Hue, Hoi An and My Son, this lush locale of natural scenery and pristine coastline could very well be your front yard. For an information pack, contact sales@lagunalangco.com.

Hanoi

overscene 126 / the promotions 131 / book buff 134 / the alchemist 136 / the therapist 138 / a world of good 140 / student eye 142 Photo by thiep nguyen January 2014 Word | 125

overscene hanoi

hatch! fair

Photos by David Harris A conference to provide networking opportunities and assistance to local entrepreneurs and start-ups hit Indochina Plaza

126 | Word January 2014

LIPLICIOUS

Photos by David Harris Grammy-nominated Katy Perry and former Billboard woman of the year was the driving force behind a raucous night of beats, cocktails and lipstick at Rooftop

metiseko grand opening

Photos provided by Metiseko Lifestyle, eco-chic brand Metiseko officially celebrated the opening of its store on Hang Gai with a party fit for an eco-chic king

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhanoi.com and we'll take a look

organic house

Photos provided by Organic House The website, organichouse.vn, home to natural, skin friendly products popular in Japan, celebrated its official launch at The Press Club

le petit christmas

Photos by Thiep Nguyen Arts space and cafĂŠ Manzi put on an artsy alternative to Christmas with well-known singer Le Cat Trong Ly

hanoi

OLD QUARTER Bars & Clubs CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am to late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor. The sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 5333 6087 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE

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2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com 8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA BOMBA LATINA

LATIN BAR 46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0917 245155

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL RESTOBAR 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 2104 7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

MAO’S RED LOUNGE

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple

watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087 Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu.

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2269 1107

TEMPLE BAR

NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR 8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6675 7908

TET BAR

LATE-NIGHT BAR 2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3050

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight

Cafes CAFE PHO CO

COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

SOLE 21

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

Clothing & Accessories BOO SKATESHOP

SKATESHOP 84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com

CONTRABAND

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

L’ATELIER THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu), Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 321 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EUROPEAN / AMERICAN BRANDS 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1968 A distinctly designed boutique around the corner from the cathedral, bringing the latest from European and American Designers. Think Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Top Shop. Markup seems high on some pieces, but all designers are authentic. No fakes here

SONG

ECO-STYLE VIETNAMESE 27 Pho Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 asiasongdesign.com

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

THREE TREES

JEWELLERY 15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

Crafts & Furniture MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

METISEKO

ECO-CHIC 71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s

hanoi move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

EAT AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1155 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm A slither of a joint serving up the same fare that the lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm

GREEN TANGERINE

FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION 48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone court-

yard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639 10am to midnight

KHAZAANA

PAN-INDIAN 11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5657 khazaana.vn

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and firstfloor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Has a second garden restaurant on Xuan Dieu.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5333 7.30am to 11pm

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover. The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

NAMASTE HANOI

PAN-INDIAN 47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-your-

own cha ca spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon, mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian dishes and a decent delivery service.

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com

THE KAFE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE 18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 thekafe.vn Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

THE MOOSE AND ROO

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT 42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls.

in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has Asian favourites like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580

TANDOOR

PAN-INDIAN 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAFÉ

WINE RETAILER 59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

Hairdressers & Salons DINH HAIR SALON

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

Supermarkets Big C Supermarket 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

Citimart Hanoi Towers 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

Citimart Vincom Towers

Fivimart

Fitness & Yoga ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat. Features a wide range of juices and shakes

THE WAREHOUSE

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253

TAMARIND

pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

Groceries & Liquor BACCHUS CORNER

WINE RETAILER 1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines,

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www. fivimart.com.vn

Hanoi Star Supermarket 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

Intimex 22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

Metro 126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

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hanoi

hoan kiem Bars & Nightclubs 17 COWBOYS

WILD WEST THEME BAR 98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822

FUSE BAR

LOUNGE / NIGHTCLUB 11th Floor, HanoiTourist Building, 18 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0968 385555

LA FÉE VERTE

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am La Fée Verte (or the ‘Green Fairy’) is a metaphor for the decadence of another age, an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The signature bar of the Hotel de l’Opéra Hanoi where, just as in Paris at the dawn of the 20th century, the making of an evening drink a lavish event of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge atmosphere, great music and ultra-contemporary interior design combine to bring a genuine sense of occasion to after-dark in the capital.

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late

PLAY GAMING LOUNGE

GAMES RESTOBAR 104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0906 210212

PHUC TAN

LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR 51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem

RELAX BAR

HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight

Cafes CIAO CAFÉ

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the

130 | Word January 2014

shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am to 8pm

PARIS DELI

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

TWITTER BEANS COFFEE 45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com

Cinemas CINEMATHEQUE

ARTS CINEMA 22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

Clubs & Societies AMERICAN CLUB

EVENT SPACE 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP hitshanoi.com

L’ESPACE

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com

Eat AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterranean-style fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

CLUB OPERA NOVEL

TOP-END VIETNAMESE 17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3972 8001

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

STEAKHOUSE / GRILL 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an all-day

eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

LE BEAULIEU

CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm

LUNO D’AUTUNNO JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

KHAZAANA

PAN-INDIAN 11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5657 khazaana.vn

LA BADIANE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night. A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi. The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 3336 8am to 10pm

CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm

PANE E VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to

hanoi

The Promotions Promotions of the Month

the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-of-themonth party.

SATINE

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com

Groceries & Liquor CITIMART

SUPERMARKET Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

DA LOC

WINE RETAILER 96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 Daloc.vn Photo of dishes at Fortuna Hotel provided by Fortuna Hotel

Oven D’or Traditional Buffet For the arrival of Tet, the Sheraton’s popular restaurant will host a sumptuous Tet buffet with traditional Vietnamese food, lobster and much more. Tasty dishes, a cheerful atmosphere and lucky gifts will guarantee a pleasant way to start 2014 with your friends and family. The buffet lunch and dinner are offered at VND750,000++ and VND990,000++ respectively, from Jan. 20 to Feb. 9. For more info call (04) 3719 9000 or email reservations.hanoi@sheraton.com

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi Tet and food go hand in hand with Fortuna Hotel Hanoi offering special a-la-carte reunions for families, friends and business associates. In particular its prosperity savories, including a lobster feast will be available from Jan. 1. The lobster feast includes options like lobster miso hot pot, grilled lobster with teriyaki sauce, baked lobster with cheese and garlic, and is available at May Man Chinese Cuisine and Emperor Japanese Restaurant on level two. Prosperity Yu Sheng, a savoury dish of salmon with shredded vegetables and other various condiments, can be enjoyed from Jan. 16 to Feb. 2 at May

Man Chinese Cuisine, with three different options: prosperous (two to three diners), Bountiful (four to six diners) and auspicious (seven to 10 diners), priced at VND380,000++, VND550,000++ and VND800,000++ respectively. For more info contact Fortune’s F&B Department at (04) 3831 3333 – extension 6160 or 6461 or fortuna.vn

Hotel de l’Opera Hanoi Fancy a whopping 12-course set menu with your family and friends to celebrate the Lunar New Year? The guys at Satine Restaurant offer the very thing at VND680,000++ per menu, for two diners. They warn, though, that due to limited numbers call them in advance for reservations for more than 10 diners. For more information, call (04) 6282 5555 ext 6421 or email h7832-fb@ accor.com

Melia Hotel Hanoi After the passing of another tough working week, one of the city’s top restaurants beckons you and your family to relax and indulge yourselves. The hotel’s famed Sunday lunch at El Patio Restaurant, available from 11.30am to 2.30pm, is a tempting affair. There is a sumptuous international buffet with a wide selection of appetizers,

a range of main courses and desserts prepared by the property’s chefs. Unlimited house wine, draught beer, sparkling wine, Sangria cocktails and soft drinks are on offer with the buffet. Enjoy the lavish lunch affair as your children enjoy kid’s corner or the popcorn machine. The Sunday buffet is priced at VND905,000++ adult and VND515,000++ for children under 10. For reservations and information call (04) 3934 3343, ext. 771, or check out melia-hotels.com

Tet Buffet Special The Novotel Halong Bay offers a Vietnamese New Year Experience from Jan. 30 to Feb. 2 from 8.30pm to 9.30pm with an evening buffet spectacular. There is a variety of traditional Vietnamese dishes available during the holiday break in the cozy, secluded atmosphere of the hotel’s The Square Restaurant as you celebrate the start of the Year of the Horse. The buffet dinner costs VND525,000++ for adults and VND262,500++ for children aged from five to 15 years. For information and reservations click on novotelhalong.com.vn, or call (033) 384 8108

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

HANOI GOURMET

DELI / WINE SHOP 6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com The long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

INTIMEX

VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 15A Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 7226

WESTERN CANNED FOODS

GROCERY STORE 17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854

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hanoi through the door. Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

tay ho Bars & Clubs 21 NORTH

LIVE MUSIC BAR / GALLERY 49 Lang Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0946 708286

88 LOUNGE

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029 88group.vn 5pm to late A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

Chime Bar Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com sheraton.com/hanoi Chime bar is the perfect spot for a refreshing glass of wine and a bite to eat. Offering a wide selection of tapas dishes in a lounge atmosphere, this is a great place to unwind courtesy of the resident DJs who will rock you into the night.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com

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8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

MADAKE

BOOKWORM TOO

GRUNGY BAR / EVENTS VENUE 81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Tay Ho, Tay Ho Monday to Friday, 2pm to 11.30pm. Weekends open from 11am Located on the lakeside road just below Xuan Dieu and close to the entrance to The Sheraton, this quiet, casual pub offers up a variety of beer, wine and mixed drinks, juice, tea, Nespresso coffee and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view of West Lake. Non-smoking indoors, Red River

TAY TAP

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917 4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with

Book Shops NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

Cafes CAFE DUY TRI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE CAFE 43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall. Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

COMMUNE

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 20A Duong Ven Ho, Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6684 7903

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

JOMA BAKERY CAFE

COFFEE/BAKERY 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

SEGAFREDO

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0212 segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world’s greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeinebased drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

TET DÉCOR CAFÉ LA GRACE

ART CAFE & GALLERY 8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 666736 lagrace.com.vn 7.15am to 10pm Located on a peaceful street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van, La Grace is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: drinks, food, arts and sometimes live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue has a nice selection of juices and smoothies and a Vietnamese-cum-Japanese food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set lunches cost VND150,000, and the café also has strong WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.

ORIBERRY

ETHNIC COFFEE / CAFE 25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6275 8669

SAINT HONORE

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk

ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513 thecartfood.com 7.30am to 5pm Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

Clothing GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

L’ATELIER

WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758; 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com

ZEDS THREADS

TAILORED / BESPOKE CLOTHING 51A To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 536515 zedsthreads.com Classical men’s clothing in expertly tailored western sizes both off the rack and made-to-measure. The menswear range includes formal and casual shirts; khaki, linen, chino and denim trousers; Bermuda style shorts in chino, denim and linen; and casual light denim jackets. Affordably priced, all clothing is handmade under fair working conditions from 100% natural fabrics. For more information email info@zedsthreads.

Cooking Classes THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC) CAFÉ / TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

HIDDEN HANOI

COOKING CENTRE 147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE 68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 848301

Crafts & Furniture LA CASA

CONTEMPORARY DESIGN Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware. The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

DALUVA

FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor.

satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

J.A.F.A.

MEKONG QUILTS

HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Cycling & Bicycle Rentals DON’S TAY HO

BICYCLE RENTALS 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com

Thang Long Cycling

CYCLING SHOP 152 Yen Hoa, Tay Ho, Tel: 0986 866538

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

CYCLING COLLECTIVE 44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

HALIA HANOI

Eat AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121 thehalia.com Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed on Sundays A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656 8am to 11pm

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Set inside a newly renovated house with a large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.

R&R TAVERN

RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Now on its third location, this watering hole still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events, while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

RASA SINGAPURA

SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 2992 rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight

hanoi

Book Buff The Book Club

The month, Bookworm’s Truong runs down the Bookworm Book Club’s books of the year

here are 10 avid readers in the 2013 Bookworm Book Club, and we’ve just discussed the best books we’ve read this year. It was too difficult for our members to reach consensus in arranging them in order of merit, so we went alphabetically instead. Most of the books are recent publications, though a couple of oldies but goodies crept in.

Thrillers Margaret Atwood’s final book in her dystopian trilogy, Maddadam (2013), had most of us rushing to get real, or downloaded, copies of the first two — so that we could get in tune with the chaos that ensued when man tinkered with genetic engineering and climate change. None of us minded going back to a World War Two setting for a grippingly cinematic coming-of-age tale set during the Nazi’s brutal siege of Leningrad. David Beniof’s City of Thieves (2008) puts young Kolya and Lev in search of a dozen eggs for a Soviet colonel’s daughter’s wedding. The two forge a doomed friendship in the lawless city, behind enemy lines. Michelle De Krester has piled up loads of awards with her 2013 novel, Questions of Travel, set in civil war-torn Sri Lanka and Australia. Its two protagonists are Laura, who writes for a travel guide, and Ravi, whose life has been torn asunder by the brutal murder of his wife and child. Their lives eventually intertwine, but a tsunami intervenes. After concluding you question how ethical the roles played by some NGOs are, and shake your head at the astonishing hoops refugees need to jump through to find asylum in Australia.

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Humanity Baz Lurman’s movie The Great Gatsby spurred us on to a re-read of the great American novel it was based off of, written in 1925 by F. Scott Fitzgerald. It was good to reacquaint ourselves with Nick, Jay and Daisy all over again. Most of us even liked the movie. Our Vietnamese contingent was insistent that we include Vietnamese author Ho Anh Thai’s new short story anthology, Nguoi Ben Nay, Troi Ben Ay. They’ve been orally translating some of the stories about Vietnamese expats living around the world who still hanker for tradition. The one about the old Scandinavian woman who sneaks out for dog meat and shrimp sauce whenever she returns to visit her Hanoian relatives gave us a real taste for a print translation. Anyone with a penchant for totally dysfunctional — albeit wealthy — families shouldn’t miss out on AM Homes’s 2013 Orange Prize-winning May We Be Forgiven. Most of us hated her characters for half the story, but in the end just didn’t want to say goodbye to them. This year’s Pulitzer Prize winner, The Orphan Master’s Son by Adam Johnson, is all about the adventures of North Korean orphan, spy, and prisoner Pak Jun Do, who, like all his fellow orphans, is named after a martyr who sacrificed himself for his country. It’s a dystopian novel that deserves to be on equal footing with Brave New World. It’s one of the biggest books of the year.

High Concept Everyone who loved The Poisonwood Bible — like all of us did — won’t be

disappointed with Barbara Kingsolver’s latest, Flight Behavior. In it, she takes on the contentious issue of climate change and the issues that drive denial and belief. It revolves around the unexpected migration and extinction of monarch butterflies, a mistaken belief in miracles and the crazy world of commercial exploitation. Hilary Mantel’s 2012 Man Booker Prizewinner, Bring Up The Bodies, follows the last days of Anne Boleyn, as Henry the Eighth is determined to have her executed and replaced as queen by plain Jane Seymour. It leaves you longing for the third in the series, to find out if Thomas Cromwell gets his deserts. Mantel is described as the greatest English prose writer working today. Our final alphabetical choice is the 2009 novel The Museum of Innocence, by Nobel Literature Prize-winner Orhan Pamuk of Turkey. Our intrepid touristy member, who visited Istanbul this year, insisted we read it and told us that Pamuk has established an actual museum there containing all of the items mentioned in the novel — in honour of all who harbour obsessive collecting tendencies. She also says that once you read the novel and visit the city, the places so vividly described in the book’s 1975 scenario come to life in vivid technicolour. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

This Singapore Peranakan Restaurant serves up authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is homecooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting.

SAINT HONORE

BOULANGERIE / BISTRO 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 sainthonore.com.vn 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da

VIETCLIMB

CLIMBING CENTRE 40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

ZENITH YOGA

YOGA & MEDITATION 247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

Groceries, Liquor & Kitchen Products ANNAM GOURMET

GROCERIES / DELI First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487

BLUEBIRD

WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT 7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho bluebirdwine.com

FIVIMART

SUPERMARKET Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1791

THBC SPANISH TAPAS BAR 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tuesday to Sunday 8am to 9.30pm. Closed Monday Spanish fare is available elsewhere in town, but this is the only place where it is authentic. Has a great selection of sandwiches, tapas and Mediterranean salads. To top off the menu are a range of drinks including enormous gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and Catalan-style hot chocolate.

KITCHEN ART

KITCHENWARE 38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

L's Place

GROCERY SHOP 3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911

Fitness & Yoga ELITE FITNESS

TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

HANOI CLUB

COUNTRY CLUB 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com

SHIVA STUDIOS

YOGA, PILATES & DANCING 51 A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho shiva.studio.najla.ammouri@gmail.com

NATURALLY VIETNAM

ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS 4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

COFFEE MACHINES 62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in

authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

RED APRON

WINE RETAILER 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

THE OASIS

ITALIAN DELI 24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

THE OASIS BUTCHER SHOP BUTCHERS 18 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE RETAILER 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

Medical & Dental INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

One Dental Clinic

DENTISTS 8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6168

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

DENTAL CLINIC 2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555 westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

hanoi

The Alchemist Your New Year’s Destiny

t the start of a new year people around the globe use the occasion to create new year’s resolutions. They see this time as a symbolic re-birthing of their hopes and aspirations. There are numerous tips and words of advice on how to successfully attain your resolutions. One that makes a lot of sense is, start small with what it is you would like to achieve. Some people are interested in changing their destinies and that surely is no small feat. In the new age and spiritually enlightened era that we’re currently living in, there is plenty of guidance on taking charge of your destiny as well.

Destiny VS Fate If you’re looking to change your destiny, one of the first things to establish is the distinction between destiny and fate. Often used interchangeably, recognising the difference between the two may help to avoid frustration in your attempts to affect change.

136 | Word January 2014

While fate is a divinely laid out plan that will happen to you regardless of your actions, destiny allows you some say in how things turn out. Another take on these two forces regards fate as a pessimistic outlook and destiny as a more optimistic viewpoint that encourages taking action in hopes of betterment.

Taking Destiny into Your Hands There are many in Japan and Korea who have decided to take their destiny into their own hands, literally. Palmistry is highly regarded in these cultures and some people have chosen plastic surgery to transform their palm lines in hopes of improving their marriage, money-making, and even job prospects. The Chinese art of face reading is another tool some have used to take control of their destiny. Altering the size and shape of your ‘wealth palace’ — the bulbous end of the nose, some believe, may increase your chances of becoming wealthy.

By Karen Gay

Steering back towards a more spiritual path, destiny is described as that which we are here on earth to achieve, and we are thus guided by an inner compass. Fate, supposedly knocks us back on the path if we stray too far from our true purpose.

Trust Your Heart The key to knowing your destiny? Some say it is by taking the time to really know yourself and going after what truly makes you happy; trusting and believing in your capabilities and listening to the intuition of your heart. If you are an Avengers fan, you will know that Destiny Force is “a mysterious and near-infinite power source inherent in all of humanity.” It is up to each individual to tap into their power and achieve their aspirations. Happy New Year! Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

hanoi Electronics

ba dinh Bars & Nightclubs BARBETTA

ARTSY BAR & CAFE 34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multi-storey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday

Bookshops BOOKWORM

BOOK SHOP 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh (Next to the Flag Tower) Tel: (04) 3823 3339 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm

MANZI

ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397 facebook.com/manzihanoi A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

Clubs & Societies GOETHE INSTITUT

GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE 58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251 goethe.de/hanoi

setting. They also offer culinary tours.

Eat AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

Cooking Classes

Cafes CAFÉ GOETHE

ARTS CAFÉ 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 7395

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

HANOI COOKING CENTRE

COOKING CENTRE 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088 hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful

HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 10am to midnight

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

A Dong Photo Co 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732

Alpha Laptop 95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418

Fuong May Anh

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

MING PALACE

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

Nguyen Cau 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem

DK Computer 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772

Hi-Tech USA 23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261

Pico Plaza 35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

Professional Computer Care and IT Services

Fitness & Yoga N SHAPE FITNESS

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568

MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE 5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn

No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983 011081

Vietsad 34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771

Swimming Pools

Army Hotel

Hairdressers & Salons

33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896

DINH HAIR SALON

Four Seasons

HAIR SALON 2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899

Medical & Dental FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice. com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da. Tel: 3537 6250

Hanoi Club 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

Horison Fitness Center 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

Melia Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343

Olympia 4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049

Sao Mai 10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

Sofitel Plaza Fitness Center 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

Than Nhan Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

Thang Loi Hotel 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

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The Therapist Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, answers your questions and offers advice Dear Douglas, I am from England and have been living in Vietnam for a year now. It is the first place I have lived outside my own country. While I am sometimes confused and challenged by the culture I am in, I get disgusted when I hear some of my colleagues complain and speak critically all the time about Vietnamese people. I want to learn more so I can understand how the ‘psychology’ of the Vietnamese people is so different than what I am used to. Any ideas? — Trying not to culture clash Dear Clash…less, I can offer some food for thought, but it is by approaching your experience with an open mind and listening to people and reading books that you can sort this out. Differences, and there are certainly differences between how Eastern and Western people think and behave, can so easily become conflicts. Conflicts can occur between people and/or can be internal experiences. It is the need to make sense of things that confuses us. Our minds seek to create resolution, when what we see or experience doesn’t fit into the schemas that we are most familiar with. The quickest way to resolve this internal dissonance is to divide behaviours into good and bad, right and wrong, smart and dumb, and then to apply that code onto the behaviours we see or experience. It might be what your colleagues are doing… to find a way to resolve the inner conflict that is inherent in being immersed in

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a culture that is different to the one in which their ideas and schemas were developed. The problem is that they end up carrying negative feelings and distancing themselves from the people whose culture they are living in. It appears that you are trying not to slip into a negative perspective, but still feel confusion and the need to make sense of it all. You may be more aware that the way you see things is through the lens of your own bias, the schemas that are part of the way you grew up. These feed your assumptions, your expectations and ultimately influence the way you interpret most of what you experience. Just knowing we are biased helps to create more space for other ways of seeing things. Instead of seeing a behaviour that is confusing to us as good or bad, we can see it as different… a little bit like agreeing to disagree. From this mindset you can learn from and appreciate the differences of Eastern and Western thought, and expand to include the set of

options that come from each orientation. There are many examples of the difference in the ‘psychology’ or orientation of Eastern and Western peoples. As visitors living here, it behooves us to suspend judgements and open up to ways that are different than our own. The acceptance of these differences is seeing the broad ways that the human species has emerged over thousands of years of development. Also realise that some of what we experience with other people is the outcome of self-fulfilling prophecy. When we align ourselves with people, demonstrating acceptance and expecting the friendliness we bring, it is more likely that we will get just that. Of course, the reverse is also true. Enjoy the time you are in Vietnam! — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

hanoi

ELSEWHERE Arts WORK ROOM FOUR

ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY Building E, Floor 4, 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

with a dim lit conversational ambience. Set in a Soviet-era building in Zone 9, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls while comfy armchair seating complements the bar area. Has a second room used as an event space and sometime gallery.

VUVUZELA

MODERN BEER HALL 2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

Cafes CONG CAPHE

Bars & Clubs BARBETTA REPUBLIC

ARTSY LATE-NIGHT BAR 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3971 2094 Propaganda Art, Communist-era imagery and a welltempered design aesthetic create the ambience for this notorious yet well-loved space in Zone 9. Drinks specials, late-night opening, DJs and live music make up the mix. Popular with young Vietnamese and expats alike.

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS

CZECH MICROBREWERY 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE Building A, Second Floor, 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Tel: (04) 6680 9124 tadioto.com 8.30am to Midnight Alternative and nostalgic bar

Eat

ASAHI SUSHI

SUSHI RESTAURANT 288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 10am to midnight

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.

WILD LOTUS

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE 55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342

POTS ‘N PANS

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE 57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

Medical & Dental FRENCH HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn

VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com

Recreation KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL

Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com

ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK

ICE SKATING Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn

X-FACTORY LASER TAG

LASER TAG 77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

SWIMMING POOL Landmark 72 Tower, Pham

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday

A LA FOLIE...!

FRENCH 63 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3976 1667 alafolie63@gmail.com 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm. Closed Monday A cozy recently opened space to taste fine French food and excellent wines without draining your wallet. Using high quality fresh ingredients, the cuisine is simple including anything from a traditional omelette or steak tartare-frites to coq au vin or foie gras. Has two floors and a patio.

LA VERTICALE

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH 19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily

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A World

Charity Begins at Home

shouldn’t be surprised by how many people regularly ask me what they can do to ‘help’ somewhere. What I’m surprised about is how hard it is to be socially conscious. Rather than eat that delicious, but kinda endangered fish, do tofu instead. Don’t throw out that dead battery — find someone, somewhere to recycle it. Motorbike three blocks for an errand? Walk instead. For those with stronger resolve, this is the time of year where many take trips to ‘do good’, catch-named voluntouring. Someone once offered to come over here and ‘mentor’ the staff where I worked. That’s awesome, but err, in what? She figured, since she was retired, she had plenty to ‘share’ about being ‘in business’ so she’d just, you know, take questions and give ‘leadership examples’. And no, she had no work experience in Vietnam. Still others jet off to the nearest developing country orphanage to ‘play’ with the deprived cute kids. What is the long term benefit to random strangers rocking up to hang out with little kids and who then leave after an afternoon or a few

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days? Too many of those ‘orphanages’ are stocked with kids who have living relatives and are there simply because of the desperate poverty. And you with your irresistible candy and gum and stickers perpetuate this. Speaking English doesn’t make you an English teacher. Knowing how to hold a hammer doesn’t mean you should be building peoples’ homes.

Stay at Home So, to assuage your socially conscious desires I propose this year you take a staycation for Tet. If you are thoughtful about it, plenty of opportunities exist to ‘do good’ right here. Contact the organisation you like and ask them what they need (if they don’t already have a wish list posted online) or if they have any upcoming events they need extra hands for. If they don’t have anything for you don’t get discouraged, contact someone else. You might have to hunt around a bit for a nonprofit that needs what you have or want to offer. Be creative. Donate art supplies for children and youth. Donate your kids’ nonbroken, non-junk toys. Donate clothing,

Good

By Dana McNairn

but make sure it’s non-ragged, non-dirty, non-underwear — yup, have seen that too many times. Furniture? Kitchen goods? If the charity has asked for it, sure. Hold a neighbourhood garage sale and donate your proceeds. Make art, sell it and donate the proceeds. Donate a day or two of your salary. Buy the charity’s merchandise. Spread the word of their mission. Educate yourself on the particular issues the organisation is tackling. Back to those teachers and builders. That type of voluntouring takes bread out of the mouths of real and local teachers and builders. Donate books or bricks or better, salary, to hire and train local men and women in order to support the local economy. Lead by example with your kids and circle of friends in practising the dignity that should always be attached to social consciousness. This shouldn’t ever be about your Facebook pictures with you surrounded by faintly bewildered ‘poor’ people. Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

hanoi

BUSINESS Business Groups

keychains, card holders and menu covers.

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations. Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org

Corporate Services ENDO 79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to

Insurance AIG Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 1455 aig.com.vn

IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

International Schools BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS) H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com

CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri New Urban, Tu Liem District, Tel: +84 4 3794 0209 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS)

6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba

G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com

RMIT Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients. Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

Market Research

CIMIGO

Language Schools APOLLO 67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and costeffective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

Management Training

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com

Relocation & tracking agents ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. For more information email info@santaferelo. com.vn.

Serviced Apartments ATLANTA RESIDENCES 49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

FRASER SUITES 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 8877 hanoi.frasershospitality. com

ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

SEDONA SUITES

Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life. They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI 49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central location.

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Student Eye Sweater Weather

inter has finally arrived in Hanoi. You might say it’s the gloomiest, most miserable time of year — which is sort of true. You rarely see the sun during the whole three or four months, and it rains nearly every other day. Although it never snows here, there is still a ‘bone-chilling’ element to it. While it certainly doesn’t seem like a pleasant time of year, for teens, it’s also an exciting time — filled with new clothes, jeans, jackets and Uggs, and sometimes even nostalgia. With winter comes a new wind of fashion among teens — as some of us like to call it, sweater weather! It’s the time when you get to pull all those clothes from deep inside your wardrobe, and change the daily shorts-and-shirt business. This time of year, you can spot a number of different styles among guys, from the casual jeans and jacket, to hoodies that vary in colours, patterns or university logos. Some of the

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more fashionable types will even wear a nice leather jacket, or a smart-looking collared shirt under a sweater. Unsurprisingly, the girls’ fashion is a lot more flamboyant and varied. You’ll sometimes see shorts with stockings and leggings, at other times skinny jeans. You’ll still see sneakers, maybe sometimes heels — and you’ll definitely see a lot more boots and Uggs, that almost universal symbol of winter.

Memories of Winters Past The winter here in Hanoi is definitely not the coldest winter. Yet sometimes, you’ll still see thick bulky feather jackets, trench coats or even gloves. It doesn’t seem like their wearers wear them to be fancy or because they are, but because they simply enjoy the feeling that those clothes give. A lot of people in my school are not Vietnamese, and they come from places like Russia, Germany or Japan, where it snows as much as it rains here in Hanoi.

And living in this strange, foreign country, with its extraordinary heat and humidity, and the roads pouring with honking motorbikes, they often miss their homes and winters there. So a slight chill in the air actually makes Hanoi feel more familiar, a lot closer to home. They use their old clothes to show to their friends how cold winter is back home, and also to remember and reenact those winters. Once in a while, they purposely zip up their jackets all the way to the top, bury their faces into their collars and walk around with their hands in their pockets, just to remember how walking on a snowy day used to feel. This is part of what makes winter here such an exciting time. Though it isn’t drastically different, it’s a tiny bit more like living our old lives. To us international teens in Vietnam, winter is not only the season of Christmas and New Year, but also a time of remembrance and nostalgia. — Tae Jun Park

Ho Chi Minh

overscene 143 / business buff 148 / coffee cup 150 / in the frame 156 / body and temple 160 / medical buff 162 Photo by kyle phanroy

overscene ho chi minh

DJ jazzy jeff

Photos by Yves Schiepek DJ Jazzy Jeff brought the old-school vibe to Lush

144 | Word January 2014

electric kicks christmas

Photos by Kyle Phanroy It was the weekend before Christmas, and all through Broma creatures were stirring

santarchy

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Good and bad elves got together to spread Christmas cheer and say cheers, repping Wake Up Saigon

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.

fv clinic opening

Photos provided by FV Clinic FV Saigon Clinic celebrated their lofty new perch in the Bitexco Tower

saigon squared book launch

Photos by Gert Nielsen Photographer James Domingo and designer Rick Reid celebrated the launch of their new photo book at Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brienâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, while drinking out of things cylindrical in shape

ishcmc 20 year anniversary

Photos provided by ISHCMC The International School of Ho Chi Minh City celebrated 20 years of pioneering international education in Saigon

January 2014 Word | 145

HCMC

BUSINESS Accounting & Auditing GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS 4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com

TMF GROUP Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com

Advertising & Mktg BBDO VIETNAM 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6662

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bbdoasia.com

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN 16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com

DENTSU VIETNAM

A graphic design studio specializing in creative design for print media and web. Recently established, we’re a group of highly skilled, well disciplined, professional artists, graphic designers and web developers offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn

GREY GROUP 404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com

KIKO FLAME OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: 0902 636950 ngonluakiko.com

phibious.com An independent, creative– led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia. Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA

MARKETEERS VIETNAM FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com

OGILVY & MATHER 12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com

PHIBIOUS 7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 3377

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com

RED | BRAND BUILDERS

Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID 10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com

SAATCHI & SAATCHI 26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM 4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn

Business Consulting BDG VIETNAM 11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com

CONCETTI 33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn

GRANT THORNTON 28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn

INSPIRED IMAGE Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES 4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn

ROUSE 6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM 161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL 38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: 0904 410884

TRACTUS ASIA LTD 164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

Corporate Gifts & Services AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com

ENDO 406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

Event Management

Business Groups AMCHAM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org

CANCHAM Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com

EVECOO Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL 63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD 268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880

THE CATERERS 46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

Expat Services CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237

HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@santaferelo.com. vn for info.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com

Housing & Real Estate CBRE 12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com

JONES LANG LASALLE 26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring best-inclass services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam. Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam

CREATION International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7968 cushmanwakefield.vn

EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service

HCMC

Business Buff Unusual Drains on the Economy

e all see and feel the impacts of major events on the economy like natural disasters or manmade banking disasters. However, there are also common occurrences that also drain the real economy every year. Whether it’s sick days from work or all those delayed flights, when you consider these events as a whole (and economists do), they have a real effect on the underlying economy. And while stats of this nature are not available in Vietnam one can only extrapolate the effects here of hangovers, tardiness, delayed flights and traffic, black/brown outs and much more.

Drinking That extra drink at the bar might seem harmless enough, however the US Center for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that more than US$220 billion (VND4,620 trillion) is lost in productivity each year due to hangovers at work. This amounts to about $1.40 (VND29,400) per drink sold in the US.

Power Outages A black out that occurred in the northeastern US in August 2003, cost the economy between US$4.5 billion (VND9.45 trillion) and US$8.2 billion (VND17.2 trillion). This includes US$4.2

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billion (VND8.82 trillion) in lost income to workers and investors, US$15 to US$100 million (VND315 billion to VND2.1 trillion) in extra costs to government agencies (e.g., due to overtime and emergency service costs), a large portion in costs to the affected utilities, and between US$380 and US$940 million (VND7.98 trillion and VND19.74 trillion) in costs associated with lost or spoiled commodities.

By Shane Dillon

estimated to cost US$77 billion (VND1,617 trillion) a year in lost work hours in the US alone. In Africa, the World Bank's Water and Sanitation Program attributed nearly US$500 million (VND1.05 trillion) in Africa's economic losses to not being able to find a clean, safe place to use the bathroom.

Watching Sport

According to research from the UK, 56 percent of respondents say they are late to work or a meeting at least once a week. Each late employee loses an average of 97 minutes per month which costs British employers US$461 (VND9.68 million) per person every year. This amounts to about US$13.6 billion (VND285.6 trillion) a year to the UK economy.

Yearly sporting events such as ‘March Madness’ (single-elimination Division I college basketball tournaments performed each spring in the United States) are estimated by HR firm Challenger, Gray & Christmas to costs US businesses some US$3.8 billion (VND79.8 trillion) in worker productivity each year. The football World Cup (coming in June 2014) is estimated to lose US$8.1 billion (VND170 trillion) to Europe in lost productivity due to watching the event.

Delayed Flights

Social Media

A common occurrence with many airlines is delayed flights and while the frustration cannot be quantified, it is estimated to cost US$32.9 billion (VND691 trillion) a year in lost productivity.

And finally social media websites (Facebook etc.) are responsible for over US$650 billion (VND1,365 trillion) in wasted work hours from companies in the US! I wonder how much reading Word at the office costs employers in Vietnam? Shane Dillon works in financial services and he can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross. com.vn

Tardiness

Hygiene Another common reason for the sick day is food poisoning and this has been

HCMC Cinemas Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

Cinebox 240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

Lotte Cinema 13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

Galaxy Cinema 230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

Megastar Cinema Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

benefits and life insurance, the team at Tenzing has over 30 years’ experience providing insurance advice.

Interior Design PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND REMODELING

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn

THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901 thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

IDECAF 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

IGLOBALASSIST Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn

PRUDENTIAL

Insurance

25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn

BAOVIET INSURANCE 49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661 baoviet.com.vn

IF CONSULTING IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide

TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES VIETNAM Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le Loi, Q1 ten-pac.com An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies in Southeast Asia. A trusted partner for health, employee

Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

Language Schools ILA VIETNAM 146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER 33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com

Investment & Finance DRAGON CAPITAL 1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP 27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup. co.uk

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com

VINACAPITAL 17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168 vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION 37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com

VUS 189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn

Legal Services ALLENS Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com

BAKER & MCKENZIE 12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com

FRASERS LAW COMPANY Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I. 18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com

INDOCHINE COUNSEL Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com

MAYER BROWN JSM 17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com

Management Training EMBERS ASIA 80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com

ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM 38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn

G&H 6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY 35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3402; 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com

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HCMC

Coffee Cup 84 City

he Le Thanh Ton/Hai Ba Trung area in the heart of District 1 has some of the best restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City. It’s already known as Saigon’s unofficial ‘Little Tokyo’ — and popular international eateries like 4P’s, Le Jardin and Le Bouchon also call these streets home. If you walk down Le Thanh Ton from Ton Duc Thang and make your first right onto Chu Manh Trinh, though, the vibe changes. As you leave the sushi restaurants behind you, street vendors start lining the sidewalks, selling dried goods, fruits, vegetables and open-air meat and seafood. Men and women sit on plastic chairs, drinking tra da and eating com tam. And in an alley at the end of the road, sitting between small shack houses, there is a hip little coffee shop. This is 84 City. 84 City opened in June 2012, and when we say it’s hip, what we really mean is hip hop. The café was opened by the owners of 84 Production, brother/sister team Vietmax and Ai My. Vietmax is a street dancer, and walking into the café you can see his love for hip hop culture. The walls of 84 City are decorated with big paintings of brightly-coloured graffiti art, with different hues of grey, blue, and red looping and swirling amid the furniture. Vietmax and artist Dan Nguyen did the art together, and both specialise in street art.

Beyond the Street Art Walk into 84 City, and usually it’s pretty empty. This allows for plenty of seating options, though, including two comfortable red couches. The music that they play is a mix between R&B, hip hop, pop, and acoustic remixes of popular songs. Coffee at 84 City starts at VND29,000 for Vietnamese coffee, and goes up to VND45,000 for cappuccinos and espressos. Tea starts at VND35,000 a pot, and other speciality drinks, like milk shakes and fresh fruit juice, range from VND40,000 to VND45,000. If you’re having an especially rough day you can also opt for shooters or classic cocktails (think margaritas, Jäger bombs and screwdrivers) for VND70,000 each. They also sell some food, including sushi, springs rolls, noodles with veggies, and braised pork with sticky rice. Besides food and drinks, 84 City also sells lifestyle, through clothes and other merchandise. Their main focus is on local street wear brands, like Peace United, a

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Photos by Kyle Phanroy

clothing label homegrown in Vietnam. In the future, they plan on expanding their sales to include merchandise with a more traditional Vietnamese style. So if you’re looking to find out how Vietnamese coffee and street culture can collide, head to 84 City. If you hear Rihanna when you walk in, you know you’re in the right place. — Margaret Smith 84 City is at Hem 36 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1. For more info, head to facebook.com/84city

Market Research CIMIGO 9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH 3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6965 indochinaresearch.com

MEKONG RESEARCH 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com

TNS VIETNAM 58 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services â&#x20AC;&#x201D; customisation, access panels and media monitoring â&#x20AC;&#x201D; to a range of local and international clients.

Photography Services DRAGON IMAGES Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

Public Relations MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications.com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS 7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com

Recruitment & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in

HCMC Kids Classes & Sports

2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com

ALLIED PICKFORDS 58 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3454 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

Serviced Apartments CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn

lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg

DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

8th Floor, Resco Building, 94-96 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0950 manpower.com.vn

NAVIGOS GROUP 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5000 navigosgroup.com

SAIGON MOVEMENT

OPUS VIETNAM

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

5th Floor Vitic Building. 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 8209 opusasia.net

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

SAIGON PONY CLUB

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149

VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com

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Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799 www.asiantigers-mobility. com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS 2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1111 cityview.com.vn

MANPOWER VIETNAM

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com

Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com

ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08) 3742 5678 enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com the-ascott.com Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.

Relocation Agents

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

DOWNTOWN Bars & Clubs 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR)

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

APOCALYPSE NOW

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 apocalypsesaigon.com

BEER REPUBLIC

MODERN BEER HALL 92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: 0945 858034 facebook.com/BeerRepublic

BLANCHY’S TASH

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202. bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7699

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: 0908 033982

DRUNKEN DUCK

EXPAT / SPORTS BAR 58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 2853 Subtle lighting, a pleasant ambience, a pool table and darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel of a drinking man's pub. A place to have fun, drink beer or spirits and get in with the party mood. Known for its 15 shooter challenge.

FUSE

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 fuse.vn

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

LA HABANA

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180 lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

GAME ON

SPORTS BAR 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898 gameonsaigon.com

HARD ROCK CAFE

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

LAST CALL

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122 lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon

FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR 9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0396 lerendezvousdesaigon.com With such a meaningful name - the meeting point - this wine bistro boasts a relaxed, friendly ambience, perfect for unwinding with an after work drink or to enjoy time with friends. Reasonably priced, has a sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive old and new world wine list.

LEVEL 23 WINE BAR

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB Level 23, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6024 pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

LUSH

SAIGON SAIGON

O’BRIEN’S

STORM P

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 lush.vn

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198 irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 1923 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp.vn

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail. com

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu. Alternatively,

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HCMC buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

VINYL BAR

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR 70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 vinylbarsaigon.com A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.

WINE BAR 38

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket down-

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town bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

ZANZBAR

LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375 Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list, subtle lighting, international tapas and a laid-back, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy, international crowd.

Cafes & Ice-Cream AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BACH DANG

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707

BASKIN ROBBINS

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn

CASBAH

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle East-

ern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704 saigongivral.com

CENTRO

HÄAGEN-DAZS

ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3508 7285 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

GOODY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066

KITA COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6799 Kita’s colonial-era building and bistro-style decor will have you thinking you’ve been transported to the streets of Europe. Pair your experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from their Mediterranean-based menu. Excellent sandwiches and salads.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

FANNY

ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere

to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

Clothing & Accessories ANUPA ECO LUXE

LEATHER & JEWELLERY 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

DEBENHAMS

ADULT & CHILDREN’S WEAR Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7592

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

DESIGN & JEWELLERY 35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162

galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

CASUAL & EVENING WEAR 85 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4004 Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

IPA-NIMA

BAGS & ACCESSORIES 77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm

L’USINE

LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com Exclusive labels, elegant and

sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MANDARINA

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-creations.org

TAILOR-MADE SHOES 171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267

NGUYEN FRERES

MR & MRS SMITH

NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY

FACTORY OUTLET 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam. All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1. (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 69 Dong Khoi, Q1

MEKONG QUILTS

SONG

ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com

T&V TAILOR

TAILORS 39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com

VESPA SHOP VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

Cooking Classes SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-class-saigon.com

Crafts & Furniture BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com

BOCONCEPT

DANISH FURNITURE 68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6604; The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn

DIABOLO

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm

EM EM

NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS 2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm

SOUVENIRS 38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm

HAND-MADE QUILTS 1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115 www.nhaxinh.com

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

BAHDJA 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3340 barbecuegarden.com

BASILICO

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE 3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse.com.vn

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099 intercontinental.com/saigon

BEIRUT

Eat

A Taste of Authenticity

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188

3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631

AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

HCMC

In The Frame Portraits of a Lost Dynasty

“T

he Nguyen rulers strenuously sought to make Neo-Confucianism the foundation of the national culture. Under the Nguyen, traditional Vietnamese culture assumed its final form, the one that would persist into the twentieth century to interact with Western influences.” — Neil Jamieson in Understanding Vietnam The Nguyen dynasty shares its surname with about 40 percent of Vietnamese people, yet the Nguyen royals seem too far gone to have been around until 1945. Vietnam’s last dynasty is the subject matter of Tran Minh Tam’s paintings on show at Craig Thomas Gallery. The glowing portraits of a lost dynasty are mostly of emperors and empresses, but include mandarins, unknown court entertainers and servants. Decorative patterns or symbolic landscapes fan around the centrally positioned, hieratic imperial leaders. General Le Van Duyet performs a

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majestic horse jump over southern rice fields. The delicately framed but powerful man, said to be born a hermaphrodite, is painted on a bed. “I like beds because we sleep in them,” the painter says, smiling. “So many people slept there, too, and they told stories to their kids.” The strength of the artworks is the support. Instead of canvas, Tam paints these portraits on old furniture. “In Saigon old things are thrown away,” she says, not needing to explain the drive to modernise and beautify that now rules this land. “The way they toss old stuff outside mirrors the way they have forgotten history.” The old tabletops, cabinets, doors and screens were dismissed as obsolete and abandoned. “Some of the furniture could be as old as the Nguyen dynasty,” Tam says, hopefully. Once restored and painted, the wooden pieces shine with beauty like the ancient capital of Hue in its former glory.

A History in Lacquer and Oil Some years ago, the artist started reading

history online and in secondhand books, to research the Nguyen dynasty. Tam believes that the history books he read at school did not provide faithful accounts of the past. The pre-1975 versions tell a different story. Tam wants his artworks to incite a curiosity about history. The easy access to the Internet, compared to the difficulty of accessing some books in public libraries, is a great learning tool, he finds. The portraits are painted mostly with traditional Vietnamese lacquer, used in ancient times to prevent wooden objects from rotting. Some details, especially the fresh faces, are rendered in oil paint, an artistic medium introduced to Vietnam by the French during the Nguyen dynasty. The artworks in House of Nguyen are suggestive of the mysteries of the past. Ponder over the unknown origin of the discarded furniture, or the untold histories of the long-gone monarchs. — Cristina Nualart House of Nguyen ends Jan. 3, at Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

BLACK CAT

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.

BLANCHY STREET

JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

BOMBAY INDIAN

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786 ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn

BROTZEIT

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

Bun Cha Ha Noi

BUN CHA 26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI 7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New York-themed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.

DRAGON NOODLE

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

KABIN

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

GANESH

INDIAN MALAY 57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn

GRILLBAR

AIRCON STREETFOOD 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901 facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes, typical of the barbecue fare you’d find on the street, and then add in three types of rice and a range of organic products. Close to Ben Thanh Market, this is com binh dan

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

HOANG YEN

PAN-VIETNAMESE 7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LE BANH MI 12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

HCMC LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com

NHA HANG NGON

VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

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PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating. Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

QUAN BUI 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SAIGON CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

THE BURGER CORNER

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527

VESPER BAR

INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples. Does a great set lunch deal.

YU CHU

TOP-END PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

Fitness, Dance & Yoga ANUPA YOGA 9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

FITNESS CENTRE Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Cfyc.com.vn

NUTRIFORT

GENERAL FITNESS 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8560 nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

HEALTH CLUB & GYM New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

SHERATON FITNESS

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheratonsaigon.com

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

HEALTH CLUB & GYM 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com

Groceries, Liquor & Wine ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

BACCHUS CORNER

GYM, POOL, SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

WINE SHOP 158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

THE LANDMARK CLUB

Galleries BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 dogmacollection.com The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441 baotangmythuattphcm.vn

WINE SHOP 74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 3575 daloc.vn

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

BUTCHERS 73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4376 kimhai.vn

PHUONG HA

GROCERS 58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318

RED APRON

WINE SHOP 22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0021

THAI HA

GROCERS 60 Ham Nghi, Q1

THE WAREHOUSE

WINE SHOP 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

HCMC

January 2014 Word | 159

HCMC

Body

here are always a lot of articles out at this time of year talking about resolutions and achieving great things in the New Year. Is it just because it’s a ‘new’ year — essentially a day after yesterday, which just happens to show a new number on the calendar? Or is it because people actually want change? What we find is people who succeed in making change do so when they are ready to. A new year might give you that little motivational opportunity of starting fresh, but on its own it’s not enough. To be successful you must want that change. You need to be sick of your current state of health, energy levels, performance or appearance — which “lights a fire in your belly” to finally make you do something about it. People who make New Year’s resolutions without that fire or passion will fall by the way side.

Real Talk Gym memberships go through a boom period between January to March, with thousands of people signing up. But three months later, half no longer use their memberships — if they did at all. The fact that only approximately 10 percent of people actually achieve their goals over a 12-month period says something about how we set goals and go about achieving them. Ask yourself, “Will I be in the 10 percent who succeed or the 90 percent who fail?” People can ‘want’ change but not be ready to make the so-called ‘sacrifice’ to achieve their wants. To lead a healthier, happier and more energetic life, the socalled sacrifices are far outweighed by

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and

Temple

A New Year: A New You?

the benefits. Yes, you will have to give up the sugar and chemically-ladened fizzy drinks, processed foods and junk foods that cause you to feel lethargic, depressed, mentally clouded and just down-right toxic. But it will be a struggle, because these beverages and foods are so sugar-filled and chemically-loaded that if you consume them regularly you will be addicted to them. If you think that ‘addiction’ is too strong a word then just wait and see what happens when you take them away! You’ll get energy swings, mood swings, headaches, acne, you’ll feel stressed, tired and more than a little jittery while your body attempts to eradicate the toxins from your system. We are an intelligent species who have been brainwashed, lied to and fed crap by the food industry in the name of profit. The first step to change and better health is to choose to do something about it. The simple fact is if you choose to change the way you eat you will automatically change the way you feel. So, the question remains — why do so many people fail? I believe it comes down to whether the right questions are being asked, and answered, when setting these resolutions or goals. It is best to ask yourself questions rather than make statements, as questions provoke the subconscious mind. Subconscious pictures are quite often what hold people back from achieving their goals. How you see yourself is also related to the habits you possess and what you deem appropriate behaviour.

The Right Questions Start your 2014 health and fitness goals by

By Phil Kelly

asking the following questions: 1) Is this what I really want? Is this what I am really passionate about? 2) Am I ready for change? 3) Can I commit to this? 4) How will I feel in my new, improved body?

Tips for Success If your goal gives you real passion then you must plan… not just plan your actions but plan methods of motivation, inspiration and support. Here are five tips to put into action that will exponentially increase your chances of health and fitness success. 1) Focus on six to 12-week time periods 2) Treat yourself at the end of each cycle. Create a reward system. Do not reward yourself with food — you are not a dog! 3) Remind yourself of your goals / targets every day. Ask yourself questions about how will you feel when you succeed or what new things you’ll do when you succeed 4) Inspiration. Choose a role model, stick inspirational photos and quotes to the fridge, bathroom and workplace walls 5) Support. Hang out with people who have succeeded, who are determined to succeed or who are willing to help you succeed 2014 could be the year you achieve your desires. But first, be sure you put some real thought into it and plan accordingly. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763 or at his website, bodyexpertsystems.com, or through Star Fitness, starfitnesssaigon.com

HCMC VEGGY’S

GROCERS & DELI 29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526

VINIFERA

WINE SHOP 7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0860 viniferavn.com

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines. Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

Hairdressers VENUS 41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 6298

Medical & Dental ACCADENT

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167 fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments.

MEKONG BLISS SPA 112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm)

Q SPA & SALON 31Q Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage. Also offers hair styling and facials.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)

FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC 1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

JASMINE

Salons & Spas AQUA DAY SPA Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 aquadayspasaigon.com

FAME NAILS SALON

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon

GLOW SPA

THANH SANCTUARY

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0885

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB 22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn

THE SPA Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com

XUAN SPA Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com

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Medical Buff Is Natural Immunity Better Than Vaccination?

any people fear or are suspicious of vaccinations for a number of reasons and prefer to believe that natural immunity is better. Dr. Brian McNaull, medical director of Family Medical Practice in Hanoi, discusses this question by explaining the possible effects of natural immunity and to provide guidance on recommended vaccinations. Vaccination rates among children are falling in some developed countries because of the fear of potential vaccine side effects. However, people who prefer not to have vaccinations must remember that many major and lethal infectious illnesses have been reduced significantly (polio) or eradicated (smallpox) because of vaccination.

The Effects of Natural Immunity It’s true that a natural infection often provides more complete immunity than a series of vaccinations — but there’s a price to pay for natural immunity. For example: — A natural varicella (chicken pox) infection could lead to pneumonia — A natural polio infection could cause permanent paralysis — A natural mumps infection could lead to deafness

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— A natural measles infection will result in one in 10 developing middle ear infection, one in 20 developing pneumonia, and the disease has an overall mortality rate of three per 1,000. Around the world in developing countries there are 450 deaths a day from measles. — A natural influenza infection has a mortality of approximately one in 200. Vaccination can help prevent these diseases and their potentially serious complications.

Vaccines For Adults: Which Do You Need? You’re not a kid anymore, so you don’t have to worry about shots, right? Wrong. Vaccination should be an ongoing process throughout our lives. These are recommendations from the US Center for Disease Control and Prevention. From 19 to 26: — Varicella (chicken pox) — if not previously vaccinated or immune — Human papillomavirus (HPV) — if not previously vaccinated — Meningococcal vaccine — for firstyear college students living in residence halls, if vaccine wasn’t given on or after age 16

From 19 to 59: — Measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) — if not previously vaccinated or immune Age 60 and Older: — Zoster — if not previously vaccinated Age 65 and Older: — Pneumococcal Your Whole Life Long: — Influenza — once a year — Tetanus, diphtheria and acellular pertussis (Tdap) — if not previously vaccinated, plus additional dose during pregnancy — Tetanus-diphtheria toxoids (Td) — booster every 10 years Vietnam-specific: — Rabies — Hepatitis A and B — Typhoid — Japanese Encephalitis — if spending significant time in rural areas — Cholera — if there is indication of an outbreak For more advice regarding vaccinations or any other medical topics visit Family Medical Practice on 298I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, or on (04) 3843 0748 and vietnammedicalpractice. com. FMP’s downtown Ho Chi Minh City’s branch is at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848

HCMC

PHAM NGU LAO Bakeries CRUMBS

BAKERY 117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

TOUS LES JOURS

KOREAN BAKERY 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4350

Bars & Clubs BIA TUOI 33

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9575

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect

setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

THE OBSERVATORY

BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440 theobservatory-hcmc.com The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao. With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines café culture, cocktails, art, DJ nights — now the home base for the Optimist Club — live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them throughout its cozy corners.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com

Cafes BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fast-food style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge. Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0902 514757 An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of coffee, ice blended drinks, lattes and Italian sodas at affordable prices. Delivery available.

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

MARATHON

BUDGET CLOTHING 147 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019

PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING 232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com

ORANGE

BUDGET CLOTHING 152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm

RAZ GARNETT

STREETWEAR & ACCESSORIES 137 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0122 210 008 9am to 10.30pm

U.BEST HOUSE

TRAVEL GEAR 163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com

Crafts & Furniture COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

Clothing & Accessories BAM SKATE SHOP

SKATEWEAR / STREET 174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BLUE DRAGON

SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING 1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm

GINKGO

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928 ginkgo-vietnam.com

SAPA

ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS 209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9780

popular motorbike rental service.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311

LA CANTINA

TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE 175/3 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

MARGHERITA

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

STELLAR CAFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 9220 Two-storey Stella serves very reasonable Italian food — antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata plus meats and fish — at reasonable prices. Also has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and one of the best lattes around. Now no-smoking indoors.

THE HUNGRY PIG

BACON BAR / CAFE 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533 facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a

65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

Tattoo Artists With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

Lac Viet Tattoo 608 Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

Saigon Body Art 135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

Saigon Ink 26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

Saigon Tattoo 31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

Saigon Tattoo Group ZOOM CAFÉ

CHI’S CAFÉ

GALERIE QUYNH

ITALIAN / TEX-MEX 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 0760

Eat BABA’S KITCHEN

Galleries

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

Tattoo Saigon 128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

Tattoo Tam Bi 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

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DISTRICT 1 Bars & Clubs Ahoy Beer Club

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, Tel: 0919 584884 info@ahoybeerclub.vn

ANH DUC’S

QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

Beer and Grill (BG Saigon)

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: 0906 780081

CHILL SKYBAR

rary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Chill’s view has only been improved by the addition of a magnificent VIP terrace. A substantial wine list and specialities from the owner’s native Denmark complement the primarily French-influenced cuisine.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

HOA VIEN

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

CZECH BREWHOUSE 28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn

MOB Beer Club

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 152 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 7307 7779

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3844 3295 saigongivral.com

KEM NHAN

ICE CREAM PARLOUR 4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 6763

I.D. CAFÉ

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com

Shooters Beer House

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 31 Le Quy Don, Q1

Vuvuzela

CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL 11 Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 2281

Cafes CAFÉ ME

CASUAL CAFE 8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3926 2828 Cafeme.biz

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café. Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2067

Clothing & Accessories BAM SKATE SHOP

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contempo-

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SKATEWEAR / STREET 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO

STREETWEAR 134 Nguyen Trai, Q1 boo.vn

BOSSINI

UNISEX CASUAL WEAR 22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com

CHILDREN’S PLANET

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING 90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9881 childrenplanet.com.vn

D’BLANC

WOMEN’S CLOTHING 89A Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 5164 d-blanc.com

GAYA CLOTHING

HAND-MADE / DESIGNER Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

MARIPOSA

BOUTIQUE LADIES’ WEAR 61 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9993 mariposa.vn

THUY NGA DESIGN

BUSINESSWEAR / CASUAL 19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm

Cooking Classes OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

Crafts & Furniture GAYA

CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and so-

phisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

LION CITY

VERLIM INTERIOR DESIGN

MAY RESTAURANT

DECO / REPRO FURNITURE 152 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3648 verlimdesign.com

Eat Banh Tam Bi To Chau

BANH TAM / HUE CUISINE 271 Nguyen Trai, Q1

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1110

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

Chi Thong

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI 195 Co Giang, Q1

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn

CUC GACH QUAN

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3848 0144

DYNASTY

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

Delivery Ben Style Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

Chez Guido Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

Domino’s Pizza Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

Eat.Vn www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

el gato negro Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

Lotteria Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

Pizza Hut (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

Scoozi Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

Taco Bich PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

willy woo’s Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon.com US-style chicken and waffles

Vietnammm www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

HCMC SPORTS

PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 5893

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

TAN HAI VAN

Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

International Schools

HEALTH CLUB & POOL Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0824

Cricket ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

Football

and

Rugby

024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr

SAIGON RAIDERS Saigonraiders.com

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com

SAIGON SAINTS saigonsaints.com

Sports — General HASH HOUSE HARRIERS saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE thesidl.com

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

Tel: 0937 683 230 vietnamswans.com

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON gauloisdesaigon.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com

Contact Fred on 0919 709

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

Fitness, Dance & Yoga SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE YOGA & PILATES 84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 5813 soham.vn

STAR FITNESS GYM

HEALTH CLUB & GYM Manor Apartments, 91

Galleries CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

SAN ART 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent,

CITYSMART Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3526 8833 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

COMPASS EDUCATION 15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 3302 compass.edu.vn

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn

VAS 23 Tran Cao Van, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 7278 vas.edu.vn

Medical & Dental FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

WE LINK

COUNSELLING 64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

Salons & Spas CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

SPA TROPIC

79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

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HCMC

DISTRICT 2 Bakeries BAKEUP ATELIER

BAKERY 244 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8392 The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien, Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries such as croissants, pain au chocolat, pain raisins, pizza dough, pates feuillete and much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Ho Chi Minh City.

LOAVES & FISHES

BAKERY / CAFE 5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4118 harvestbaking.net

PAT A CHOU

FRENCH BAKERY 25 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3743 2445

VOELKER

BAKERY 39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

SAIGON OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

Cafes

Bars & Clubs BAAN THAI

SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

BMV PUB & GRILL 38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel: 01299 839314 facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill With its seven TVs, full-size mezzanine area, pool table and aircon lounge space, BMV is the perfect place in District 2 to relax and watch the sports. Has live music on Thursday and Friday nights, and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in Thao Dien.

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AGNES CAFE

COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offers a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Now open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed and intimate.

CAFÉ EVITA

LAID-BACK CAFÉ / RESTAURANT 230A Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 3888

Clothing & Accessories LITTLE ANH-EM

BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING 37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,

Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

signs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks. Also offers a rental service.

THE FURNITURE HOUSE

HOME FURNISHINGS 81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

Crafts & Furniture AUSTIN HOME

REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS 20 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023 Austinhomevn.blogspot.com Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. Home décor orders are also available.

CHI LAI

HOME FURNISHINGS 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected high-quality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

FEELING TROPIC

FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES 51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior de-

Eat

LA PLANCHA 25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 8521

LU BU

CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN 97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371 luburestaurant.com Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

AGNES CAFÉ

CAFÉ FARE / TEX-MEX 11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable café offering up a western-fare breakfast, lunch and dinner menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in with salads and more typical international cuisine. Open until 10pm.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BUN DAU MAMA LAM

BUN DAU / BUN BO HUE 40 Quoc Huong, Q2

COM TAM 40A

COM TAM 40A Quoc Huong, Q2

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobble-stoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.

PAPAGAYO

FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q3, Tel: (08) 6252 1333 facebook.com/papagayosaigon

TAMAGO

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a

Shopping Malls Diamond Plaza 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Hung Vuong Plaza 126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Parkson Plaza 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Centre 65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Square 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

Saigon Tax Trading Centre 135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

Vincom Center 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Zen Plaza 54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HCMC Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

THE LOOP

HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS 49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385

Fitness, Dance & Yoga AQUAFIT

AQUABIKING 65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 008985 aquafit.vn

CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.

DANCENTER

DANCE & PERFORMANCE 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 info@dancentervn.com dancentervn.com A professionally run dance studio close to District 1. Children age 4+ can learn jazz, ballet, tap, hip hop, acro dance and break dance, while adult classes are available from beginner to advanced. International team of qualified dance instructors. Free trial first week of the month for newcomers.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS 100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909 540030

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GENERAL FITNESS 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672 nutrifort.com A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

Groceries, Liquor & Wine 100%

MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES 26B Thao Dien, Q2 100percentvn.com

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

GROCERY & DELI 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

GROCERIES & IMPORTER No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

VINO WINE SHOP

WINE SHOP Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines with a portfolio spanning old and new world as well as everything in between. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new tipple.

fure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

International Schools AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British-style curriculum for an international student body and is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISSEA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten. com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers en-

sure personal attention for all students.

Medical & Dental FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice. com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly–qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out– patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

GREGORY BEALE

THERAPY 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: 01268 654 202 gregbealetherapyfitness. com

Salons & Spas AUTHENTIC SPA Thao Dien Village, Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744 2222

AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321

Hairdressers ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn

CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coif-

GERMAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL – GIS 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 7300 7257 www.giss.vn The German International School offers a unique bilingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of nationalities, from 2 to 16 years old. Its curriculum is based on the internationally recognised Primary Years Programmes (PYP), Middle Years Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme of the International Baccalaureate (IB) system.

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HCMC

DISTRICT 3 Bars & Clubs ACOUSTIC

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: 0907 502951

CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS

LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE 224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948 031323

METALLIC BAR

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 41 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3154 metallicbar.com Showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music starts at 8.30pm.

PLAN B

CONTEMPORARY BAR 147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0987 684761

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489

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Cafes & Ice-Cream

Crafts & Furniture

AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 3398

BUD’S

ICE-CREAM PARLOUR 171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

Clothing & Accessories BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn

BOO STREETWEAR 187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 boo.vn

plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

Banh Canh Hoang Ty

SUSHI DINING AOI

BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE 70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

ATC FURNITURE

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 39326455 SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 38403946 atc-craft.com Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living space of your home? Come to ATC FURNITURE, you will find a wide range of modern-designed products (sofas, chairs, beds...) manufactured from eco-friendly materials (water hyacinth & rattan). Our outdoor (poly rattan) wicker-furniture range is suited to your balcony or garden space. A hanging (hammock) chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long day at work.

REMIX DECO

INDOOR FURNITURE 222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com

Eat AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

JOIE DE VIVRE

WESTERN / FRENCH 292/10, Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066 facebook.com/joie.vn

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943

SHRI

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought

International Schools CITYSMART

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

VAS 98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278 vas.edu.vn

Medical & Dental

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 vietchay.vn

Fitness, Dance & Yoga MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

YOGA 107/39 Truong Dinh, Q3, Tel: 0909 648193 michellelloyd.com

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

BELLY DANCE No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com

Hairdressers YKC HAIR STUDIO 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

CHIROPRACTOR 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930 www.acc.vn A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children and adult.

HCMC

PHU MY HUNG

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

SKIN CARE / COSMETICS 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579

Salons & Spas AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com

YKC SPA 219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com

Bakeries L’AMOUR

BAKERY & CAFE Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072 lamourbakery.com.vn

SAVOURE

BAKERY Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7

SIMRANS

BAKERY SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg

Bars & Clubs BANANA BAR

EXPAT BAR SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

PEACHES

CURRY PUB S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt.

RUBY SOHO

CARTOON BAR S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

Crafts & Furniture BELLAVITA

HIGH-END FURNITURE The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 7355 bellavitafurniture.com

MEKONG CREATIONS

FAIR TRADE CRAFTS 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110; S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org

MEKONG QUILTS

HAND-MADE QUILTS S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org

NHA XINH

HOME FURNISHINGS CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com

Eat BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

MING DYNASTY

LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 5555

NATHALIE’S

THAI / VIETNAMESE S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0822 nathaliesrestaurant.com

SALT & PEPPER

PAN-ITALIAN The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com

CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

PANORMA FITNESS

PAN-VIETNAMESE The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304

13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052 lgkids.vn

EL GAUCHO

HOANG YEN

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

LUXURY INDOCHINA 2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 9999

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

Fitness, Dance & Yoga GYM, POOL, SQUASH 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

CHAM CHARM

based on UK standards, culminating in IGCSE’s and A levels (awarded upon graduation by Cambridge University examinations board).

INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS 206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com

International Schools ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Serving students from 32 nations, ages two to 18, ABC delivers a curriculum wholly

Medical & Dental AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM

EYE CLINIC / SURGERY 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com

FV HOSPITAL

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE 432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969

SMILE DENTAL RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON (RISS) 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08) 3773 3171 rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides students from over 25 nations with a British / international education. Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers at their state–of–the–art campus.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.

JAPANESE DENTAL CLINIC 173 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phong Ward, Q7, Tel: 5413 6634 smiledental-vn.com 9am to 12pm, 2pm to 6.30pm (Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat); 2pm to 6.30pm (Thurs); 9am to 12pm (Sun); Closed Wednesdays A contemporary Japanese dental clinic boasting the latest equipment and technology. Provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including 60-minute teeth whitening. Speak English, Vietnamese and Japanese.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages? If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam.com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

January 2014 Word | 169

Ảnh bởi Yves Schiepek

Trò Chơi Burger McDonald đang tới Việt Nam. Đã đến lúc khuấy động thị trường bánh burger

ất cả những thảo luận về bánh burger tháng vừa qua đều xoay quang chủ để McDonald đang chuẩn bị xuất hiện tại thị trường Việt Nam sau một thời gian dài chờ đợi, với một địa thế rộng và có dịch vụ lái xe qua ở giữa trung tâm thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Nhưng Việt Nam hiện đã có một hãng burger khác của Mỹ là Burger King – hoặc nếu bạn cộng cả Carl Jr. thì sẽ là hai – Và tính ra đã có đến hơn 143,000 lượt ưa thích trên facebook đối với hai “ông trùm” burger này. Ngoài ra còn có những chuỗi burger nặng kí như Lotteria của Hàn Quốc và Jolibee của Philippine. Vài năm gần đây, Lotteria luôn tân trang, trang bị thiết bị mới và mở rộng thêm các quầy hàng tại các góc phố. Saigon Burger King cũng bắt nhịp với động thái tương tự. Tháng vừa qua, hãng đã mở thêm được hai địa điểm có nhiều khách du lịch nước ngoài nâng tổng số lên 11 địa điểm đều ở trong thành phố Hồ Chí Minh – một cửa hàng nằm tại địa phận Thảo Điền và địa điểm còn lại nằm ngay trên đường Phạm Ngũ Lão, một địa điểm đông khách nước ngoài. Giới quan sát cho rằng điều này nằm trong chiến lược. Ông Paul, 50 tuổi người Úc, nói: “Burger King vẫn luôn có thị trường của mình. Mặc dù người bản địa sẽ thích burger của McDonald nhưng bạn thử nhìn quanh

170 | Word January 2014

xem có bao nhiêu người dân ở đây tối nay? Hầu hết sẽ là người nước ngoài.”

Số Liệu Thực Tế

Thực tế, 5 trong số 7 khách ruột của Burger King đều trung thành với thương hiệu này khi được phỏng vấn. (Loan, 20 tuổi, người duy nhất sinh ra và lớn lên ở Sài Gòn được phỏng vấn không đưa ra quyết định). “McDonald thật tẻ nhạt” Giuliano, 17 tuổi, sống 3 năm ở Sài Gòn nói và chia sẻ thêm “Kiểu như cùng một loại burger làm đi làm lại. Còn Burger King họ pha trộn các loại burger cho vị tuyệt hơn.” “Tôi chọn Burger King vì ngon hơn” Paul chia sẻ. “Đắt nhưng nó ngon hơn nhiều.” Bà Ruth, 62 tuổi, người Israel, mặc dù đã thử và thích Burger King ở đường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Hồ Chí Minh lại quyết định trung thành với McDonald vì “ Món này quen thuộc với tôi hơn” Còn Loan, sau khi thưởng thức Burger King tại Phạm Ngũ Lão đã chọn thương hiệu này thay vì Lotteria hay Jollibee: “ Tôi rất thích Burger King”

Cạnh Tranh

Người ta đồn rằng có vẻ như McDonald cũng đã chuẩn bị cho mình nhưng chiến lược riêng.

“Họ sẽ tạo ra ảnh hưởng” Paul nhận xét thêm.”McDonald sẽ khuấy động thị trường và luôn xuất hiên trên phương tiện truyền thông trong năm tới.” Sau lời công bố sẽ gia nhập thị trường của hãng McDonald, những trang tin luôn đầy ắp các dự đoán đâu là nơi hãng sẽ đổ bộ. Những địa điểm ngoài trung tâm thành phố như Gò Vấp, Quận 10 cũng như ngã ba đoạn Phạm Ngũ Lão cắt Trần Hưng Đạo đều được nhắc đến. Burger King không bao giờ tạo ra những tin như vậy. Giuliano nhận xét về hai năm đầu xuất hiện của Burger King: “Ban đầu, lượng khách cũng không quá đông. Còn giờ đây, họ có số lượng khách khá ổn định.” Cameron, 23 tuổi đến từ Nam Phi, với 16 năm sống ở Sài Gòn lại cho rằng :”Tôi nghĩ khi mở tại Việt Nam, McDonald sẽ khá bận rộn vì người Việt Nam sẽ phản ứng : ‘Ồ McDonalds, mình đã nhìn thấy trên phim ảnh nhưng chưa bao giờ được thử’. Vì thế, Tôi nghĩ người dân bản địa sẽ dừng lại và thử thôi” Paul thì lại quả quyết “Không có cơ hội nào hết”. “Macca sẽ chiếm sạch thị phần, Macca đang đổ bộ vào thị trường với giá của một tô phở. Và họ sẽ có 200 nhà hàng năm tới.” — Ed Weinberg

Tiếng trống Mê Linh

ựa vào cuộc sống của vị nữ hoàng huyền thoại đầu tiên của Việt Nam, chị em Hai Bà Trưng, người mà sự dũng cảm đã ảnh hưởng lịch sử đất nước này 2 ngàn năm trước, tiếng trống Mê Linh, là một vở cải lương truyền thống — một loại opera của người Việt — sẽ đến với sân khấu Idecaf vào ngày 7 tháng 1. Cùng biểu diễn với các nghệ sĩ là Thanh Sang, nghệ sĩ cải lương nổi tiếng nhất cho đến giờ, một huyền thoại từ những năm 1960. Ông không xuất

hiện trên sân khấu cũng đã gần một thập kỉ rồi, và chưa diễn những vở như thế này từ khi ông hát với Thanh Nga, cũng là một nghệ sĩ cải lương nữ rất nổi tiếng. Câu chuyện kể về sự anh hùng, tình yêu và sự trả thù. Tiếng trống Mê Linh kêu gọi người Việt Nam thống nhất lại với nhau để đánh tan quân xâm lược Trung Quốc — điều mà họ đã thành công trong một thời gian, nhưng cuối cùng lại bị đánh bại. Quân Trung Quốc sau đó đã đi tìm và

phá hủy tất cả những chiếc trống Mê Linh chúng tìm được, như thể nó được xem là biểu tượng của tâm hồn và tinh thần của người Việt cổ. Đây có thể được coi như buổi diễn cuối cùng của Thanh Sang, cũng như là một sự kiện mà người ta có thể nhìn lại và nói, “Tôi đã ở đó.” Tiếng trống Mê Linh sẽ được diễn vào ngày 7 tháng 1, 8 giờ tối tại sân khấu Idecaf, 31 Thái Văn Lung, Quận 1. Để biết thêm thông tin hãy gọi (08) 2229 9414

Dạ tiệc cuối năm Một lần nữa, CanCham lại tổ chức một bữa tiệc sang trọng là bữa tiệc đầu tiên cho giới doanh nhân vào năm mới, năm con ngựa — Năm mới phía trước: Tầm nhìn xa và đúc kết của người quản trị doanh nghiệp vào năm 2014. Vào ngày 16 tháng Giêng tại Khách sạn New World, quản trị nhân lực, tuyển dụng, các vấn đề hợp pháp, phát triển kinh tế - xã hội, xu hướng đầu tư và còn nhiều hơn nữa sẽ được thảo luận, vì vậy CanCham và các nhà tổ chức từ khắp nơi trên thế giới rất hy vọng vào các cơ hội hiếm có và thử thách ở năm mới này. Vé cho bữa tiệc ngày 16 tháng Giêng là VND850,000 cho thành viên CanCham và các tổ chức trực thuộc, VND1.5 triệu cho khách không là thành viên, VND7.5 triệu cho một bàn 10 người. Nhận khách đăng kí vào lúc 11 giờ sáng, địa điểm là ở khách sạn New World, 76 Lê Lai, Quận 1. Để đăng kí tham dự, hãy liên hệ hcmc@canchamvietnam.org hoặc (08) 3824 3754

January 2014 Word | 171

Ở

Gắn kết với Việt Nam Nhìn lại một hội thảo sau năm năm hoạt động . Ảnh cung cấp bởi Cristina Nualart

mọi nơi trên thế giới, các cuộc hội thảo khoa học diễn ra hàng năm với các chủ đề đa dạng từ công nghệ nano cho tới chuỗi cung ứng tài chính hay văn học chỉ trong ngôn ngữ nói của Châu Phi. Rất nhiều những học giả và những người làm trong lĩnh vực này tham dự những buổi hội thảo đó để thảo luận về những lĩnh vực thuộc chuyên môn của họ. Một vài năm trước, tiến sỹ Phan Lê Hà, giảng viên tại trường Đại học Monash ở Australia muốn tổ chức một diễn đàn cho một cuộc thảo luận cởi mở về Việt Nam. Giống như những người theo đuổi giấc mơ của mình, cô đang biến nó trở thành thực hiện – tổ chức một hội thảo về tất cả mọi thứ Việt Nam đang có kế hoạch thực hiện trong năm năm. Từ Melbourne, tới Hà Nôi, và Hawaii Gắn kết với Việt Nam đsã mang các học giả từ nhiều lĩnh vực lại với nhau để thảo luận về tương lai, quá khứ và hiện tại với vô số những câu hỏi về Việt Nam. Trong tháng vừa qua, hội thảo Gắn kết với Việt Nam lần thứ năm có chủ đề “Những cách khác nhau để tìm hiểu về Việt Nam”. Sự kiện này được tổ chức tại trường Thái Nguyên, ở cách Hà Nội hai tiếng về phía Bắc.

Tổ Hợp Những Ý Tưởng

Trong hai ngày 16 và 17 tháng 12, 200 nhà nghiên cứu đã chia sẻ những công trình của họ với nhau. Trong áo choàng, khăn quàng cổ và mũ, hàng

172 | Word January 2014

trăm người – rất nhiều trong số họ là những sinh viên tới từ đại học Thái Nguyên – vừa say sưa ghi chép vừa nhấp môi những tách trà nóng. Với hơn 100 bài trình bày trong vòng hai ngày, người ra rất dễ quên đi những chi tiết, đặc biệt những thứ có thể gây ra những bối rối cho những người không quyết đoán. Bạn sẽ chọn để tìm hiểu về việc làm thế nào để giảm bớt tác động của biến đổi khí hậu hay những ảnh hưởng từ những hợp tác xuyên Thái Bình Dương tới Việt Nam? Một bài thuyết trình về trồng lúa hữu cơ có thể tiếp nối bởi một bài về quản lý xung đột, hoặc về việc gian lận trong trường học. Trong một buổi thảo luận thú vị, nghiên cứu sinh Nguyễn Anh Tuấn đã giải thích về sự khác biệt giữa một nhà ngoại cảm và một bà đồng. Anh đã đưa ra ví dụ người ta dùng một quả trứng và một vài chiếc đũa để tìm ra những hài cốt của người đã mất như thế nào. Thảo luận của anh về những khả năng nhận thức đặc biệt này với những niềm tin huyền bí vào sức mạnh của những bà cốt, được lấy cảm hứng từ những tác phẩm của các họa sỹ nữ người Việt và Philippines. Đến từ Berkeley bang California, giáo sư sử học Peter Zinoman đã thuyết trình cuốn sách của ông về nhà văn Vũ Trọng Phụng, một trong những tác

giả có tầm ảnh hưởng nhất ở Việt Nam trong thế kỷ trước. Một giáo sư sử học khác, Liam Kelley tới từ trường Đại học Hawaii đã trình bày việc những hệ thống bản đồ điện tử và những phần mềm khác đã tạo ra những sự kết hợp trên toàn cầu trong việc nghiên cứu về những đặc tính của con người. Như chúng ta biết từ Wikipedia, những dự án như thế này tận dụng tài năng của cá nhân sẵn sàng đóng góp tri thức và thời gian để tạo nên một thế giới tốt đẹp hơn. Hàng chục những nhà thuyết trình khác, tới từ những lục địa khác nhau đã chia sẻ những ý tưởng của họ để kết nối với những tác phẩm của những nghệ sỹ ở Sài Gòn với những nghiên cứu về dân tộc học trong khu vực. Hội thảo bắt đầu như một dự án cá nhân và đã chứng tỏ rằng nó đang trên đà thành công. Diễn ra tại Việt Nam nên đây là cơ hội cho những người làm việc trong lĩnh vực giáo dục hay chuyên gia trong nước tham gia vào một sự kiện mang tính quốc tế mà không cần phải tốn kém chi phí đi lại. Thời gian hội thảo diễn ra cũng thuận lợi cho những vị khách quốc tế ¬– cơ hội để lên kế hoạch cho một kỳ nghỉ Giáng Sinh ở Việt Nam. Nhiều người thuyết trình hiện giờ đang gắn kết với các thành phố tại Việt Nam một cách trực tiếp. Không còn nghi ngờ gì nữa, Việt Nam sẽ là một nguồn nghiên cứu dồi dào để tiếp tục hội thảo này. — Cristina Nualart Để biết thêm về hội thảo này, hãy vào trang engagingwithvietnam.com

Chương trình âm nhạc mùa tết của Bookworm Bookworm đem tới cho chúng ta một vài hoạt động truyền thống vào chỉ hai đêm duy nhất trong mùa lễ tết này. Đầu tiên là ở Bookworm Too, ngày 25 tháng Giêng, ở làng cổ Nghi Tàm từ 1 giờ trưa, trong khi 24 giờ sau cũng cùng buổi biểu diễn như thế này sẽ diễn ra tại cửa hàng ở Châu Long, cũng vào lúc 1 giờ trưa. Buổi lễ hội này sẽ có dàn nhạc truyền thống của Việt Nam biểu diễn, bói quẻ xem tướng (có phiên dịch nếu cần), thư pháp Tết, tranh in 12 con giáp, khán giả đến xem cũng có cơ hội làm Bánh Chưng, Tò He (hình nhân đồ chơi làm từ bột) cho trẻ em, nếm thử rượu đế và rượu vang nấu cho Tết. Trong dịp này các tượng đất sét nung hình 12 con giáp của người dân tộc Chăm, các loại đồ chơi Tết truyền thống và hiện đại, sách được bán với giá phải chăng đều được bày bán. Bookworm ở Trung tâm Nấu ăn Hà Nội, 44 Châu Long, Ba Đình. Bookworm Too ở hẻm 1/28 Âu Cơ, Làng Nghi Tàm, Tây Hồ

Thần vệ nữ ở Việt Nam

iện Goethe đang tổ chức buổi triển lãm chung của hai nghệ sĩ Hà Nội từ hai thế hệ khác nhau — Vũ Dân Tân và Nguyễn Nghĩa Cương — chú trọng vào hình ảnh nữ tính thông qua các tác phẩm điêu khắc và dàn dựng. Thần vệ nữ ở Việt Nam sẽ được trưng bày tại Bảo tàng Mỹ thuật Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh từ ngày 11 tháng 1 đến 24 tháng 1, với buổi ra mắt vào ngày 10 và buổi nói chuyện thảo luận ngày 12. Cuộc triển lãm này đánh dấu sự ra mắt đầu tiên

của các tác phẩm hàn lâm chọn lọc của Tân, một nghệ sĩ bán hiện đại, người trộn lẫn nhiều phương tiện khác nhau tạo nên các tác phẩm bứt phá truyền thống vào những năm 1980, với phong cách phóng khoáng và cách sử dụng vật liệu có chọn lọc kĩ, anh đã trở thành một trong những nghệ sĩ hàng đầu Việt Nam trong thời kì sau Đổi Mới. Cương, cử nhân đại học Mỹ Thuật Việt Nam, có cái nhìn hoàn toàn khác biệt so với Tân, thể hiện tác phẩm của mình bằng cách châm biếm thực tại đương

đại, bị chi phối bởi chủ nghĩa tiêu dùng và nhãn mác hàng hóa. Buổi lễ khai mạc diễn ra vào ngày 10 tháng 1, lúc 6 giờ, với sự giới thiệu của nhà phê bình Iola Lenzi — và triển lãm diễn ra hàng ngày cho đến 24 tháng 1 tại Bảo tàng Mỹ thuật thành phố, 97A Phó Đức Chính, Quận 1. Buổi thảo luận là vào ngày 12 tháng 1, lúc 3.30 chiều. Để biết thêm thông tin hãy liên hệ (08) 3600 9588 hoặc email prog@saigon.goethe.org

January 2014 Word | 173

The final say

Opportunity Knocks Alongside his singer wife, Thuy Tien and Le Cong Vinh are the Posh and Becks of Vietnam. Derek Milroy talks with the nation’s most famous footballer, just off a stint starring for Japanese club Consadole Sapporo. Illustration by Yanneth Albornoz

he 90 minutes had come and gone in the final of the 2008 ASEAN Football Championship. As the clock ticked on for the fourth minute of added time, with Thailand and Vietnam deadlocked, Le Cong Vinh rose up and headed himself into football immortality. His goal won Vietnam its first regional trophy. Unprecedented national celebrations followed. He has since become the most decorated and popular Vietnamese footballer of all time. But Vinh hasn’t settled into comfortable celebrity. Last year, his club Hanoi FC went bust, leaving him without a team willing to buy out his expensive contract. But at the last minute his hometown club Song Lam Nghe An stepped in to save his career. In August, as Song Lam were gunning for the league title, Vinh surprised many by moving to Japanese club Consadole Sapporo on loan — becoming the first Southeast Asian footballer to play in Japan.

A Vietnamese Abroad He lived in Hokkaido for six months, playing for one of Japan’s most famous clubs. He was blown away by the reception of the Japanese fans, who took him into their affections for his skills and hardworking ethic, despite not being a regular starter for the J-League Division 2 club. “Fans of Sapporo gave me more love that I expected,” the footballer says. “I’ll remember the way they treated me for the rest of my life. When I landed at the airport, there were so many fans welcoming me. When I was on the ground, many fans recognised me and waved their hands. “But the most touching and proudest moment was when two middle aged couples were carrying a Vietnamese flag before asking for my autograph. You have to understand that finding a Vietnamese flag in Japan is very difficult. During the games, fans drew a Vietnamese flag on tough paper to encourage me.”

It’s not the first time that Vinh has played overseas, becoming the first Vietnamese to play in a top-flight European league after a stint at Portugal’s Leixoes S.C. back in 2009. But this time he moved to a country he is fascinated with. He spent hours every day learning Japanese during his time there, and has always loved Japanese culture. It’s mostly because of the food. In his first few days he wisely made friends with Sapporo’s chef. He just wished he could have taught him how to cook Vietnamese cuisine. “I can eat most dishes in Japan,” Vinh says. “But sometimes I missed Vietnamese food.” Vinh knows the Vietnamese footballer is the forgotten man of Asia, but that doesn’t mean that kids growing up in Vietnam should not dream of playing in England or Spain. He was that way as a kid, idolising Portuguese winger Luis Figo. He says that the problem is not the skill level — it’s that “Vietnamese players do not have the opportunity and the big football teams have not fully evaluated the potential of Vietnamese players”.

Pleasure and Pain The game Vinh scored his first J-League goal in, he also found himself red-carded. He worked hard, though, to learn the subtleties of this new league. The personal touch the club showed him made a real difference. The Sapporo chairman actually flew from Japan to sign Vinh — and from that moment, the head coach, the players and the doctors made him feel as if he was one of them, and this helped him to perform better and more regularly on the field. He traces his Japanese experience back to that day. “This extreme happiness and unlimited pain was only 20 minutes apart,” he says. “I scored my first goal — which meant so much to me, bringing me happiness — but then I was standing watching my 10 teammates fighting against

11 opponents, I was very regretful and nervous. “That was the longest match in my life. However, we won 1-0. I learnt a big lesson that day.”

Back to V-League Business With Vinh’s time in Japan now up, it is back to V-League business, with Song Lam’s new season starting on Jan. 11, with 13 teams in action. He still feels indebted to Song Lam for buying out his contract. “I felt sad,” he says. “I felt hurt [when Hanoi FC went bust]. Not only for me personally but for the whole Hanoi FC team — especially for the leaders, who were very passionate about the football team. None of us wanted that to happen. “We cried because the team was torn apart and some players have still to find a new team since last year. Some even had to retire.” Vinh found himself in a tough situation, which he escaped with trademark humility. “At that time,” he says, “my contract that Hanoi signed with me meant that I was still tied to them for two years, even though they didn’t exist. I had to wait until a team bought my contract. Finally Song Lam Nghe An, my hometown football team, saved me. I wear the number 89 shirt to show that the contract was signed at the last minute, before the V-League started.” Although many of his finest memories are from his spells abroad, they can never top that ASEAN Championship winner. “When I scored in the last minute, bringing the first Southeast Asian trophy for the Vietnamese football team,” he says, “my whole country lived in happiness, and millions of people flocked to the street to celebrate with flags and flowers. That day, the bus of the Vietnamese team was surrounded by thousands of fans — we only made it back to the hotel at 3am. That is the best moment of my life.”

“‘This extreme happiness and unlimited pain was only 20 minutes apart. I scored my first goal — which meant so much to me, bringing me happiness — but then I was standing watching my 10 teammates fighting against 11 opponents, I was very regretful and nervous’” 174 | Word January 2014

January 2014 Word | 175

The last call Artist, journalist, bar owner and personality extraordinaire, Nguyen Qui Duc is one of Hanoi’s most enduring characters. With his bar-cum-art-gallery Tadioto soon to be looking for a new space, he gives his thoughts on life, Vietnam and the universe. Photo by Nick Ross I returned to Vietnam… because I had always wanted to. I was born here, never felt comfortable elsewhere. Morocco was a choice but I needed a community. I fell in love with Hanoi when I came here after some 15 years abroad. I was also tired of living in the West.

My experience overseas… taught me that racial and class discrimination is alive and well, that there are often possibilities and opportunities, that the war here will never be understood, that being in exile is a lifetime condition.

I chose to live in Hanoi because… it’s green, it has charm,

seasonal changes, and people work hard. It’s energetic, crazy, and one can get a lot done if one abandons normal expectations.

I started Tadioto… because I have

always loved receiving people. I needed something to do, and an art gallery and a bar seemed a good choice. I have had occasions of extreme joy and frustration, fear and despair, as well as moments of frightening drunkeness. The success of Tadioto was never about financial gains, but I can’t measure such losses against the friendship I’ve received from customers, colleagues, artists, visitors, strangers, and the moments when I see happy people in a place I created for them.

Being both a businessman and a creative is… impossible, and

insane. Yet it keeps me going.

Making things work… means changing life-long habits. Patience is required, but also a harsh attitude, and understanding that what works in the morning isn’t necessarily going to work in the afternoon. It’s about not expecting

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perfection, not demanding consistency. And not to rely on promises.

My biggest struggle is… to con-

trol my impulses.

Contemporary art in the capital… has held big promise for

years. It seems to be sparks and bursts of creativity at various undefined moments.

Sometimes I wish… I had the courage to let go, to be simple, and not jump at all the opportunities. I wish I had thought more about the risks I recently took at Zone 9.

I most enjoy… what I don’t allow

myself enough: time alone, quietude, writing, reading, learning. I have a tendency to want to confront problems, and can’t balance my need for being alone and being with friends.

The person I admire the most… is my father. Honest, dedicated to his work and his dreams, able to handle tough times with humility, determination, and without rancor. And he didn’t show it, but must have had an enormous sense of humour to tolerate me as a son.

If I could change one thing, I’d… redo the 20th century so that there would have been no war here.

My biggest regret… is to have

failed those who had given me their love and support.

My dream is… to float away on a boat in Ha Long Bay, dying in an opium dream. Life… has given me a lot. Too much.