Word Vietnam April 2016 by Word Vietnam

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 4 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

Contents Apr. 2016

THE TALK

INSIDER

010 / Twenty Years Later

46 / Landing on Water

011 / The Big Five

54 / Ascending Long Bien Bridge

Vietnam in 2036

April in Vietnam

BRIEFINGS

A trip to Halong Bay by seaplane The Urbex movement knows no bounds

12 / Cleaner Air

58 / In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word

14 / Nha San

78 / Arsenic and Old Lace

18 / The Renovation Generation

84 / Night and Day at the Flower Market

20 / Coffee on the Spin

EAT & DRINK

Being proactive with pollution Hanoi’s longest running arts collective

Doi Moi and podcasts

Who needs cafes, anyway?

26 / Ironman

Or Ironwoman, as the case may be

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This month we turn 100

We’re not scaremongering. We promise!

Getting close and personal on Au Co

90 / 24 Hour Cafes

Where to sleep when you don’t wanna go home

96 / Mystery Diner Hanoi This month’s review: Panam’

98 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: pho vit quay

100/ Mystery Diner HCMC

Café-Restaurant is put through its paces

102 / The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon Vietnam’s answer to yes, you guessed it, the dosa

108

Contents Apr. 2016

112

118

198

TRAVEL

138 / Day Tripper

COLUMNS

106 / Bangkok in Squares

142 / Bar Stool

146 / The Therapist

144 / Coffee Cup

150 / Medical Buff

148 / Top Eats

158/ Business Buff

152 / City Map

160 / Body and Temple

HCMC 28 / To-Do List

166 / The Gym Diaries

A photo essay on the Thai capital

112 / The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh

Now you know where to go for the Apr. 30 holiday

118 / 10 Destinations to Visit in Vietnam in 2016 Our alternative guide to travelling Vietnam

128 / Notes from Another City Entry 3: Danang

132 / The Motorbike Diaries

34 / Just In 154/ HCMC City Guide 156 / Day Tripper

176 / Amazing Grapes 178 / Know Your City 186 / A World of Good FINAL SAY

From West Bengal to Zangoora

170 / Bar Stool

HANOI

174 / Coffee Cup

38 / To-Do List

180 / Top Eats 1

A new destination for a professional sport

42 / Just In

184 / Top Eats 2

192/ Ten 10

134 / Hanoi City Guide

188 / City Map

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190 / Kiteboard Goes to Phan Rang

Our chief editor comes out of the woodwork

CONTRIBUTORS This month we asked our team to tell us about the best moment during the time they’ve worked for Word TRUNG DEL Contributor For me? It’s definitely the time that I was interviewed for Many Faces of Vietnam by Ms. Vy, LOL. FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter One of my best working trips for Word was that time when I was sent to Kampot and Bokor in Cambodia to write about the place as a new travel tour destination. Before I knew exactly what was going on, I was in a VIP escort heading to Bokor mountain. And then the next day sitting at the Ninth World Congress on one the most beautiful bays in the world, at the same table as Ministers of Tourism from several countries in Southeast Asia, asking them questions. Cambodia treated me well. JON ASPIN Staff Editor Probably the trip to Amanoi Resort in Ninh Thuan Province with the late great Kyle Phanroy for company as part of the Undiscovered Coast issue. Funnily enough, the best part wasn’t the five star luxury, but swimming in crystal clear water with the locals just near the ‘floating’ seafood restaurant. Heaven on earth. NICK ROSS Chief Editor There have been many, but for me it was when I went to visit a mine clearance site in Quang Tri, right on the former DMZ. This was followed two days later by the ‘decommissioning’ of land mines at a separate site. The mines were blown up and we had to wear protective gear. JULIE VOLA Photographer One of the most fun I have had was for the Urban Explorer issue when I managed to sneak into a building’s abandoned rooftop cafe. The feeling was amazing, such a thrill. And then for that same issue I collaborated with one of my favourite people, David Mann, on a fashion shoot that I am really proud of.

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EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor nick@wordvietnam.com

VU HA KIM VY Editorial Manager vy@wordvietnam.com

MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com

JON ASPIN Staff Editor jon@wordvietnam.com

KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com

JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com

FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter & Photographer francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com

OWEN SALISBURY Staff Writer owen@wordvietnam.com

JESSE MEADOWS Staff Writer (Hanoi) jesse@wordvietnam.com

NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com

ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com

TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com

ADVERTISING TRINH BUI Sales Manager trinh@wordvietnam.com

CHAU GIANG Office Assistant giang@wordvietnam.com

DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com hai@wordvietnam.com

For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609689 or Ms Trinh on +84 936 269244 Special thanks to Kieran Crowe, Nha San, Natalia Martinez, Hey Camel Ceramics, The Renovation Generation, Vincent Demailly from Coffee Spin, Thanh Vu, Phuong Tieu Nguyen, Harry Hodge, Linh Nguyen and Emily Dallara from Saigon Outcast, Emily Petsko, Hai Au Seaplanes, Chris Humphrey, Vietclimb’s Jean Verly, Aron from BWT, Huyen Tran, Don Wills, Matt Dworzanczyk, Fuji Pham, Billy Gray, Douglas Holwerda, Dr. Brian McNaull, Shane Dillon, Phil Kelly, Bao Zoan, Ed Haysom, Jim Cawood, Dana McNairn and David Legard.

OWEN SALISBURY Contributor I’ve had a lot of good moments, to be honest, some of which I cannot discuss. Getting the nod to become a staff writer felt good — but the best was probably the first time I got something in print. There’s a difference between knowing you can do it and actually accomplishing something. It gave me a huge boost in confidence.

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CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-77-2123-8

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Prelude

00 issues. 16,000 pages, 12,000 articles, 11,200,000 words and a helluva lot of late nights, deadlines and stress. Sometimes when I look back I wonder how we’ve managed to do it, not just once, but every month for over eight years. Add to this 44 issues of a separate publication, Word Ha Noi, which was

started in November 2009 and joined together with Word Ho Chi Minh City in July 2013, and I still marvel at this feat, almost always achieved with a small team. A recent conversation with a friend now living in Toulouse, France made me realise that somehow, despite the inexorable advance of time, we remain fresh. Running his own recruitment company for over a decade, you could tell from his words and the lines on his face that he was tired, ready to move on, determined to do

something different. Yes, we have our issues — what business doesn’t? Yes we have our moments when the common vision no longer remains common to all. Yet the magic has never lost its spell, and the charm has never shaken off its allure. There is something about putting together a publication such as ours that is not just fun, but a little bit special: the people we meet, the places we go, the stories we manage to unveil. Testament to that are the people who’ve worked with us. Four,

including myself, have been there from the start; Duong Vy Bao, Vu Ha Kim Vy and Mark Allan. Many others have worked with us for three, four or even five years. In a fast-changing country known for its transience, this is another feat. So, putting our trumpets aside, a final little word of thanks. Actually, a big word of thanks. To everyone who’s supported us, worked with us and read us from day one, we couldn’t have done it without you. THANK YOU!!! — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 4 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

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Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

Inbox Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at nick@ wordvietnam. com — we’re at your fingertips.

The Vung Tau Hydrofoil You may have seen in the news that minibuses from Vung Tau can no longer drop off and collecting passengers in District 1. This has resulted in absolute chaos as the minibuses now stop the other side of the tunnel in District 2 where passengers are transferred to seven-seater cars for the ride into and from District 1. A consequence is that more passengers are now using the hydrofoil, which is good news because weekdays it has been quite lightly loaded and we did not want the service to stop. — CE

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Air Pollution In response to the article on wordvietnam.com, ‘Saigon Air Pollution Now Very Unhealthy’ Interesting contrast with the US Consulate data… I wonder if its because the consulate is next to a big park, or that District 2 is closer to Bien Hoa — MF The 600 SUV’s that are delivering and picking up one child at the schools every day isn’t making it better. — LI WTF — should we walk our kids to school?! — JH Approx. 300 new cars plus 600 new bikes registered daily × 30 days = 27,000 new vehicles per month × 12 mths = 324,000. Any new roads to be seen? Any bother on time saving? — TM This article needs to be translated into Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, French etc. The pollution makes living here really unenjoyable for me sometimes. — CL

Learning Vietnamese The Language Beast (February, 2016) Wonderful article, put very nicely. I’m sure Peter could have said a lot more — CB I’ve had people praise my Vietnamese when the reality is my comprehension has hanging on by a thread. Hardest thing I’ve ever tried to do... — RC Hang on a minute... which circumstances familiar to middle aged western males is he taking about...? — PC This cryptic point also intrigued me — he implies it is something so common it doesn’t need explanation but I don’t have a clue — KP I was learning tones last night... Bloody hard going — BC

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Talk Lead THE TALK

LEAD ARTICLE

Twenty Years Later

What will this country look like in two decades time?

recent event organised by the British Business Group of Vietnam in Ho Chi Minh City gathered together a group of expats from various industries and careers, all of whom had one thing in common; they had all being living here for 20 years or more. These people have witnessed first-hand the enormous changes Vietnam has undergone since 1996; the rise of the automobile, the age of the internet, and most importantly, average local income which has risen almost 7% a year for a quarter of a century. Where is this all leading? A new report published in February by the World Bank Group and the government of Vietnam tries to make sense of all this, and tries to create a road map for the country over the next 20 years. Entitled, Vietnam 2035, it recommends steps to help lift Vietnam to upper-middle-income status in two decades and suggests that Vietnam build a more competitive private sector, support smart urbanization, promote innovation and take advantage of increasing trade opportunities to enact broad structural reforms. In terms of benchmarks for achieving this status, GDP in Vietnam would need to grow at 7 percent per year, raising the average annual income level to US$7,000 (VND156 million) a year based on modern-day prices. At present the average annual income is US$2,052 (VND46 million).

Rising Traffic Congestion Such foresight is vital, especially if it can be acted upon. You only have to look at Bangkok, Jakarta or Manila to see what a lack of long-term vision allied to rapid development can do to a city. Vietnam’s cities have all the ingredients for a similar descent; limited infrastructure capacity (such as the Old Quarter in Hanoi), plentiful construction projects, huge motorbike usage and ever-rising car ownership.

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So, what can help Vietnam achieve its goal of upper middle-income status? Certainly the upcoming metro systems in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City can help ease congestion if they are well planned. Yet even Singapore has found that they do not solve all problems — there are still status issues that cause many people to eschew public transport in favour of their own vehicles. Also, the near complete absence of multi-level car parks in Ho Chi Minh City, compared to Singapore and Bangkok, is indicative of a problem that will not go away any time soon. If public transport is to be a success here, it will have to prove itself to be quicker and more efficient than private transport, as well as being affordable. Introducing an Intelligent Transport System (ITS) might alleviate the problem. Already widely used in cities such as London and Stockholm, ITS collects and correlates traffic data from CCTV and heat sensors dotted around the city, sending drivers real-time updates about accidents, construction work, and traffic jams via their cell phones. As can be seen on a daily basis, all Vietnamese drivers carry cell phones.

Air Pollution A decline in air quality is an unfortunate by-product of rapid industrial development in any country, and Vietnam is no different. The report suggests several initiatives that might help Vietnam’s cities not end up with Beijing-style smog. These include a coordinated effort to decrease traffic volumes in the big cities, reduce industrial emissions, and switch to renewable energy. Ho Chi Minh City receives an average of 6.17 hours of intense sunlight a day, so there is an opportunity for the government to provide subsidies for citizens who install solar panels on their homes. On the passive side, trees are known to improve urban air quality (the so-called ‘green lung’) and both Hanoi and Ho Chi

Minh City have numerous beautiful trees which can be preserved. Many more could be planted.

The Powers That Be Vietnam’s authorities are fully aware of the challenges the country faces — Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung was instrumental in jointly creating the initiative that led to the Vietnam 2035 report. Minister of Planning and Investment Bui Quang Vinh summed matters up: “Our country is at a turning point of reform and development. We face significant opportunities, but also big challenges. To reach our goal of a becoming a prosperous, creative, equal and democratic Vietnam, our only choice is to implement the reforms recommended by the Vietnam 2035 report. “Without these reforms it will be hard for us to avoid falling into the middle income trap and lagging behind. We see these reforms as a continuation of the historic Doi Moi reform process and we believe current and future generations of Vietnamese people have the will, determination, courage and capacity to successfully implement these changes.” World Bank Group President Jim Yong Kim noted: “In the last 30 years, Vietnam has become one of the world’s great development success stories, rising from the ranks of the poorest countries. Improvements in productivity, environmental protection and economic innovation can help Vietnam maintain high levels of growth. The report recommends that Vietnam build modern and more transparent institutions — those steps will help the country meet its ambitious goals.” Vietnam has made impressive strides over the last 20 years. Everyone who has been here that long will be able to tell you that. But now the world is watching. Will this rising powerhouse still be able to impress its spectators in 2036? Time will tell. — Kieran Crowe

Big5 The

A laugh a minute, water festivals, the Hue festival, public art and cleaning up Vietnam

Comedy

Irish comic Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi and HCMC this month

This year, Songkran is being celebrated in Saigon… big time

UK outfit Stealing Sheep will be one of the bands performing at the Hue Festival

HCMC and Hanoi Apr. 6 and Apr. 7

Yes, we know, our shameless promotion of comedy in this rag is, well, shameless. But hey, we’ve got a vested interest here, and at Word, we love to laugh. This month the latest gags and indomitable stand-up is coming courtesy of Irish comic, Aidan Killian. Supporting him will be upand-coming American gagster, Sam Thomas. The pair will be performing in both Hanoi and HCMC and will have support from local comedians. This one will be very, very funny. For more info, turn to pages 30 and 38

Artworks on the Street 2

Central Hanoi Apr. 9 to 19

Manzi Art Space is taking the concept of public art into a new realm with their project, Into Thin Air. Ten site specific and contemporary artworks will move out of galleries and onto the streets over 10 days with the help of artists including Nguyen Manh Hung, Crazy Monkey and Bui Cong Khanh. Set up in 10 different Hanoi locations, some will be mobile installations while others are fixed in particular locations. Organised and curated by Manzi Art Space, Into Thin Air is a unique and exciting project which should garner

a lot of talk. For more info click on facebook.com/intothinairhanoi or turn to page 38

Songkran 3

HCMC, Q3 Saturday, Apr. 16

If you like waterfights and want the opportunity to celebrate the Thai New Year in the heart of Saigon, then the Songkran bash organised by Saigon Outcast at the Youth Cultural House might just be for you. Last year’s Saigon-kran at Outcast was a runaway smash, so buy tickets early or stay dry. And remember, April is the cruellest month... fear death by water-fight. For more info click on saigonoutcast. com or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. Also, check out our article on Songkran on page 24

Clean Up Vietnam Central Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne Sunday, Apr. 17 4 As part of the Clean Up Vietnam day on Sunday, Apr. 17, the Clean Up team are working with bars and restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne who will be organising clean-ups around their areas over the course of that weekend. In addition to hosting the cleanups the participating venues will be offering great discounts on food and drink to all those who register and

participate. There will also be prizes for people who collect the most rubbish. To see a list of participating venues or to get involved, turn to page 33

The Hue Festival 5

Hue Apr. 29 to May 4

Artists and musicians from well over 10 countries will be descending on the former imperial capital of Vietnam to celebrate the 9th Annual Hue Festival at the end of April. The lineup includes Stealing Sheep (UK), the Germein Sisters (AUS), The Chinchineros (CHI), the Youth Dance Group of Sri Lanka, bluegrass outfit Della Mea, jazz band the Michal Milczrek Trio from Poland and the Halleluya Dance Group from Israel. Unfortunately for EDM lovers, rumours of DJ Tiesto headlining the festival don’t seem to have materialized. Not that it matters — this is going to be a big, big event. If you want to gain a better understanding of Vietnamese culture and how it is merging with the modern age, then this is definitely one to pencil into your diary. But get in there fast. As we went to print, hotel deals were still available at places like La Residence (la-residencehue.com) who are putting on a festival package running at VND3.5 million a night. But how long this will remain the case is yet to be seen. For more info on the festival, click on huefestival.com

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Briefings HCMC

Cleaner Air for Better Learning

Few institutions in this country proactively deal with air pollution. The International School of Ho Chi Minh City is one that does 12 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

e’re sat in Adrian Watts’ office overlooking the main building and play areas of his school. Surveying his domain — he is the Head of the International School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) — he shows me the Air Quality Index (AQI) card system in his window. At the moment the card displayed is amber, meaning that the air pollution has hit between 100,000 and 150,000 particles per litre. Based on World Health Organisation (WHO) measurements, this level of air pollution

is ‘unhealthy for sensitive groups’ — children and adults with breathing issues, such as asthma, need to be careful when they’re outdoors. “We have this card system in three places in the school,” he explains. “We use three colours; red, green and amber. It means that everyone round the school knows where we are. Green is considered safe, but when it goes into the red zone, which is dangerous, I stop play outside.” That Vietnam’s major cities face a growing battle with air pollution is now

flow around the school. The pressure inside the school will be higher than the pressure outside, so when doors are opened, the air will flow outwards rather than inwards. This way the minimum amount of pollutants will enter the building. “It’s part of our mission to provide a healthy environment to energize our students,” he explains. “If the air’s not clear then it affects thinking and the children’s ability to enjoy their environment.” Indeed, studies have shown that bad indoor air quality at schools can result in poor concentration, lethargy, headaches and even nausea. Clean air in the classroom is therefore critical to enabling students to perform to the best of their ability.

A Growing Concern As we begin to talk, I ask Adrian why the installation of air-purifying systems has so far focused on younger children. “The damage [from air pollution] is done hugely when kids are very young because they’re growing,” he says. “So the absorption of the small particles into their bloodstream then gets pushed out into the rest of their bodies. As you get older you still absorb the particles, but the impact on you growing is less.” Adrian cites Mexico City as an example (until 20 years ago it was the most polluted city in the world) where back in the 1990s pollution was thought to cause 1,000 deaths and 35,000 hospitalizations a year. During this period, instances of acute childhood leukaemia rose sharply as did respiratory disease in children aged one to four. Now, says Adrian, with the horrific air quality problems in Beijing and Shanghai, China faces a similar problem. It’s become so bad that many “expat families have withdrawn from Beijing,” he says. He adds: “In Beijing, international companies now locate single people there or people with no children. So, it’s definitely something that multinationals consider now, as to how they strategically plan for the future.”

More than Air Quality

becoming documented. However, it’s rare that anyone takes steps to minimize its impact. That is what Adrian Watts has done for ISHCMC.

Clean Air, Indoors and Out Adrian’s initiative goes much further than just checking the outdoor air quality. Over the past 18 months, the school has introduced standalone air purifying machines throughout their early years area right through to Grade 1. ISHCMC has also recently added the system to their

multi-purpose room, which is used for drama and sport. Next year this will be extended to the rest of the primary school. On completion of ISHCMC’s new secondary campus close to Saigon Bridge in 2017, the new building will also have a purpose-built air filtration system to ensure that, as Adrian explains, indoor air pollution will be kept below “WHO levels — which is 35,000 particles per litre”. Using what is essentially a huge box with three filters, the air will be purified at the point of entry, before it is allowed to

We leave Adrian’s office and head to the Early Explorer and Kindergarten area, where he shows me the air purification machines. We take a reading. The air quality here is at around only 30,000 particles per litre. Outside the campus this number rises to 110,000 and the AQI cards are at amber. “These systems do more than just purify the air,” says Adrian. “They take out all the spores and all the other things in the air like bacteria, mould and spores that create damp. So, they create a healthier environment.” He adds: “If I had a young child then ISHCMC would be my first school choice for them because having your child in clean air when they’re very young is essential.” — Nick Ross To find out more about the International School Ho Chi Minh City, visit ishcmc.com or call (08) 3898 9100

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Briefings

PHOTO BY TRUNG DEL

Hanoi

Nha San

Hanoiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longest running art collective has some big plans

ha San Collective is no stranger to change. Since its beginning in 1998 as an experimental art space in a Muong ethnic minority house, the group has been forced to adapt many times. A media mishap that drew attention from the authorities caused the collective to shut its doors in 2011, but two years later, a younger generation of

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artists rebooted the group with a series of guerrilla projects and international collaborations. Moving from a space in Zone 9, to a studio on Ly Quoc Su, and finally coming to rest on the 15th floor of Hanoi Creative City (for now), this nomadic art collective, the first and longest-running artist-led non-profit in Vietnam, has big plans for

2016. Nha Sanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first exhibition of the year opened on Mar. 25. Called Mise en Scene, it was an exploration of the way history is constructed by the media and those who control it. Nguyen Quoc Thanh, a member of Nha San and organiser of the annual Queer Forever Festival, exhibited a series of his photographs mounted on the glass

IMAGE PROVIDED BY NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

Images of Nha San’s first exhibition of the year, Mise en Scene

windows of the group’s 15th floor gallery space, juxtaposing his images against Hanoi’s skyline. This month, the collective will welcome Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien to conduct a series of workshops with LGBTQ-identified artists, culminating in an exhibition on Apr. 22. Supported by American Arts Incubator, a programme that facilitates exchange between overseas artists and underserved communities, Erin’s workshops will focus on using technology to tell the personal stories of queer artists, by creating holographic videos that can be downloaded from the internet and projected via iPhone or tablet.

Nguyen Quoc Thanh says the project is important for challenging the conventional “out-and-proud” narrative: “It’s [always] ‘Here I am, this is my place, I’m out and about’, but we want to ask people what kind of visibility they want for themselves.”

Rates of Exchange Arts Incubator’s spirit of international exchange echoes throughout the rest of the annual in:ACT performance art festival set for this summer. Last year, the five-day event brought Seiji Shimoda, Japanese artist and founder of the Nippon International Performance Art Festival, to

give talks and workshops to local artists. But this exchange is not limited to artists at Nha San; the third instalment of Skylines with Flying People, beginning this Autumn, will give creatives an opportunity to learn from visiting academics and researchers in social science. Focused on inspiring “new ways of thinking and doing”, the project will feature workshops and talks from September to December, culminating in an exhibition of 12 Vietnamese artists from across the country. For Skylines, Hanoi-based conceptual artist Nguyen Phuong Linh has begun work on a project titled Black, White, and Red, a three-channel video installation on rubber plantations in central and southern Vietnam. “One evening two years ago, I wandered through rubber woods surrounded with unnamed graves. Such an intangible sense of the Central Highlands’ red basalt soil, hazy darkness, shining moon, agrestic smell, and ghostly stories of dead workers, soldiers, as well as Western foreigners during the French colony and later the American war, has fascinated my curiosity,” Linh writes in her research. In a country where university arts programmes mostly focus on technique and skill, Nha San’s projects are pivotal for exposing young Vietnamese artists to the international art world’s critical thought processes. “We just want to try to know the practice of other people, and ask a lot of questions, [like] what does it mean, and why?” says Thanh. While the rest of the country rushes the global stage, Nha San is making sure that Vietnam’s contemporary art scene does not get left behind. — Jesse Meadows For more information on Nha San click on facebook.com/nhasancollective or head to their studios on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi

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Briefings HCMC

Hey Camel Ceramics From The Canary Islands to Saigon

t the end of an alley in District 3 you will come across Hey Camel Ceramics. In there you will find stylishly designed pottery and you will have the chance to dig your hands into clay and, who knows, become an artist. We spent a morning getting to know the founder and creative director, Leandro Marcelino.

From a Remote Archipelago to Vietnam Born in the Canary Islands, Spain, Leandro developed an early passion for art which led to him becoming a ceramic artist. “When I was 17 I decided to join

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arts school and learn photography,” he explains. “I really like to show other people my vision, the ideas that run through my mind.” A few years ago he moved to Vietnam where he joined a ceramics studio, learnt this new art and “found a new way of self-expression after many years”. This would result in a perfect way to reveal his roots by imprinting the influences and traditions of his home region on his work. By accumulating pieces, and with no room left at his house to store them, together with good reactions from customers in artisan markets, he decided to start Hey Camel Ceramics.

The Rising of the Pot Camouflaged in a corridor of walls covered with colourful plants and flowers, the facade of this studio imposes its own harmony with elegance and style. Inside, a peaceful room, shelves and a table cover the space where plants, mugs and plates rest, and even old town-style little Saigon houses — perfect to get as a beautiful souvenir and provide your home with a bit of creativity — are exposed with delicacy as artwork waiting to be admired. “I want to offer the opportunity to my customers to feel a special connection with the pieces, and also have a meaningful theme related to local culture,” explains

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

Leandro. “The name of Hey Camel Ceramics was inspired by my roots and where I come from. The Canary Islands have long been a home to camels, where they have served an important role in the transport of wares for trading merchants in the past. “The camels therefore represent an important link between the cultural exchange that takes place between the traders. Likewise, I like to think that my brand is a celebration of different cultural influences.” Looking at his work, which is constantly growing — he just designed some cool handbags with drawings of his work and another of his passions; cacti — you might wonder where he gets his inspirations from. “Every trip I make, every little corner of a town, the creamy colours of the walls, the cobalt blue of their ceramics. I also get inspired by many symbols of religious objects, such as incense holders, offering wares, etc.” However, Leandro has more to offer. The back of his studio is set aside for workshops where he teaches pottery. During the weekends, he offers classes for VND450,000 which include all the materials necessary to give shape to whatever you might have in mind. So come over, let your creativity flow and head back home with a few cool cups to drink your tra da from, or a bowl for your pho. And if you have any time left, check the upstairs floor — Hey Camel Bazaar is also the home of Saigon Leather Workshop, another creative space, run by Adina Weinand. Leandro never stops; he has also been

involved in projects such as the recent collaboration with designer Paloma Wool from Spain, and expects many more

ventures in the future. — Natalia Martinez Hey Camel Ceramics is at 116/19A Tran Quoc Toan, Q3, HCMC and opens from 11am to 5pm

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Briefings Hanoi

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The Renovation Generation A podcast project is documenting the lives of young people born after Doi Moi

“Y

ou don’t always have to look outside for interesting stories,” says Fabiola Buchele, over tea at a cafe on West Lake. It was a rare warm afternoon in Hanoi’s otherwise gloomy winter, and we were taking advantage of the sun. I’d met up with Fabiola, Eliza Lomas and Maia Do, three of the women behind the Renovation Generation, a new podcast spotlighting 30 Vietnamese characters under the age of 30. On the table between us sat a pair of headphones, a portable recorder and a laptop — the team’s mobile studio. “This is a completed episode,” explains Eliza, showing me a screen full of wavelengths in greens and blues. It takes them about two hours to interview their subject, one in their makeshift home studio and one in the field “to give it some colour,” adds Fabiola. These two hours are then condensed into 10 minutes of engaging real-life stories, accented by music, sound effects and careful narration. “They’re sonic portraits,” Fabiola explains. “We’re trying to show the Vietnam that we live in, and that we know… we’ve taken this chunk out of the reality that exists, and it’s a chunk that doesn’t get a lot of attention and is often kind of swept under the rug.”

New Era, New Stories That chunk consists of young artists, musicians, and entrepreneurs born after Vietnam’s Doi Moi, or renovation, policy went into effect in 1986, opening the country to economic integration and creating a whole new era for the struggling nation. “Some of the feedback we’ve had from the show has been so nice. Some of my Vietnamese friends say ‘Oh, finally some narratives which I can relate to!’ All the media I hear about is American kids or English kids, but what about the people who live in the same bedroom as their brothers and mum and dad, and want to be in a rock band, but have to pursue a finance degree?” says Eliza, who produced documentaries and radio shows in London before

moving to Vietnam three years ago. Stories abound, like that of journalist Vu Hong Linh, who talks about her experience moving away to Denmark, only to miss Vietnam so terribly that she decided to move back, or artist Nguyen Hoang Giang’s struggle to make his father understand his work. Duong Bui, frontwoman for the metal band Windrunner, even told a tale about digging up her grandmother’s bones. “She said it in a way that I wasn’t expecting. She was just like, yeah, it wasn’t scary. I know my grandmother, it’s just her bones!” Eliza laughed. “She did mention that she got to meet her grandmother again. I think that was the most interesting bit. It’s not just the bones, it’s a second chance to see her again,” added Maia. “When we started, the questions we asked were a lot more serious, and suddenly we were like, why don’t we have a bit of fun?” says Fabiola. “[The interview] with Uyen the other day, that was my favourite so far. She was being so serious about spirituality, and then she was telling us about dreaming of Benedict Cumberbatch.”

An Alternative Viewpoint As 2016 marks the 30th anniversary of Doi Moi, the team has set a goal to make 30 episodes this year. With every new instalment, they refine their style. It began as something of an experiment, recording interviews with their friends in Fabiola’s flat, using a duvet hung on the wall to help the quality of their recordings. Eliza now posts regular notes on their website to give listeners behind-the-scenes insight to their process. What sets this show apart is the alternative view it adds to the Western media’s typical narratives about Vietnam. “I think the problem is that often because there is relatively little coverage, they end up making incredibly broad statements,” says Fabiola. “It’s very important to us that we’re not bashing the same drum.” — Jesse Meadows Check out the podcasts at therenovationgeneration.com

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Briefings Coffee on the Spin Bikes and coffee have gone hand in hand for years. Now, a French lover of them both is making it his business

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

HCMC

here are lots of things you stop noticing after a while here in Vietnam, like middle-aged women getting about in their pyjamas after 3pm. You’re never not aware that it’s going on, but after a certain amount of time, it no longer makes you giggle quite as much. Basically, if you’re a long-termer, it starts to take something truly out of the ordinary to make you pay attention, which is what I did when I witnessed the recent sight of a well-dressed foreigner making ca phe sua da from a bicycle-cum-coffee shop on the side of a road in District 2.

Lining Up Since the beginning of March, mostly along Xuan Thuy in Thao Dien, Coffee Spin or Spin Coffee, has been causing a small stir, entering what many might have thought to be a saturated market, offering good quality, reasonably priced coffee. The well-dressed foreigner in question is Frenchman Vincent Demailly. He, along with his business partner Truong Que Phuong, have been trading in locally produced and hand-pressed coffee from their mobile café emporium. And they’ve quickly discovered that the locals’ thirst for the bean is far from sated. Vincent explained to me that bringing coffee back to the street in such an

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interesting yet traditional way, is something that people can relate to. An industrial designer with a love of custom, quality bicycles and motorbikes, he designed the vintage-looking trike himself, and while he considers this model a prototype, it’s been getting its fair share of attention. For him, it’s been about combining his love of good design and good coffee, and presenting it in a way that people feel connected to. It’s one step forward with a definite nod to the past.

Simply Good The Marseilles native says that coffee is a simple product that people appreciate when made well, so by offering it to them outside, where they are, without having to go into any one of an increasing number of chain stores, Coffee Spin retains a personal, human touch. “We’ve been meeting a lot of people,” Vincent says, “and by being here I think we’re teaching people that good coffee, not the poor-quality chemical stuff you usually buy on the street, doesn’t have to be too much more expensive either. It’s also a more ecological product, and a lot of people like that. We don’t need fuel or electricity to make good coffee.” Vincent, Phuong and another partner Quynh source all their beans from Dalat. The beans are brought to Saigon by the

plantation owner himself, roasted in Saigon and ground every morning at Vincent’s home and on-site.

Friends on the Street It’s an idea he’s had in his head for several years, since he started hearing all the bad press about the local street coffee. But without a Vietnamese partner, it’s remained just that. Now, with Phuong and Quynh very much at the heart, he is finally on the ground living his idea, and with the smiles and love they’ve been getting from people every day, they’re considering expanding the fleet. “For sure we would like to spread the idea of making ecological and clean coffee,” Vincent says. “Soon I think we will have more bikes like this in District 3, District 7 and District 1 — why not? “But what I think is very important is the idea that we are preserving what people like in this country, the culture of eating and drinking with friends on the street, and I think even as people become more able to afford to eat indoors, it’s something Vietnam needs to hang on to.” — Jon Aspin To find out where Vincent, Phuong and Quynh will be each day, head to their page facebook.com/CoffeeSpinSaigon. You can find them most mornings from 7.30am opposite North End Deli on Xuan Thuy, Q2, HCMC

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Briefings National

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

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Redefining the Impossible Thanh Vu is preparing to run 1,000km in some of the toughest conditions on earth

n a world where the word ‘epic’ gets thrown around too easily, Thanh Vu is about to attempt something that actually is quite phenomenal. In 2016, the 25-yearold is trying to become the ninth woman, and the first Southeast Asian female, to complete the 4 Deserts ultra-running ‘Grand Slam’. The feat involves finishing four of the world’s toughest ultramarathons in one calendar year. Each one is a self-sustaining, 250km slog through mostly uninhabited deserts. Comprising six gruelling stages each, the courses take in some of the hottest, driest, windiest and coldest places on earth. Competitors must provide and carry with them all of their own food, gear and clothing, and are given a ration of water and a tent to sleep in at night. While Thanh is not new to extreme physical endurance — she’s already a seasoned tri-athlete and marathon runner — she’ll start what she describes as her “ultimate challenge” in the dry heat of the Sahara on May 1. Home to the largest sand dunes anywhere, the Saharan course will feature some of the most stunning, but brutal landscapes in Africa. Once she gets through those, she will then travel to China in June to take on the Gobi, with scenery including the spectacular but dangerous Tianshan Mountains.

After this she’ll get a much-needed rest before resuming her assault on history in October in the Atacama Desert in Chile. This is where last year she became the first Vietnamese woman to finish, and described the experience as like “going to the moon and back”. Finally, the series will culminate in Antarctica at the end of November, and if that doesn’t blow your mind, nothing will. To even start this final event, racers must have completed at least two of the other three challenges — as if doing those gives you the base level of insanity required. Organisers call it ‘The Last Desert’. We call it putting yourself in harm’s way. If successful, by the end of the year Thanh will have endured 1,000km of ultra-running, gone through several pairs of shoes, travelled the globe and achieved her goal of being the first Southeast Asian woman to complete all four; the ‘Grand Slam’.

But Why? Interrupting her intense training last month (you don’t just turn up to these torture tests) I had to ask her that very obvious question, along with why she was dedicating a year of her life to something so hard, and how she felt about the first event just over a month away. “I’m freaking out,” she began, “but thanks to the support I’m getting, I’m grateful to have the opportunity to

chase my impossible dream.” As for the Why?, Thanh wants to create history to raise awareness for her chosen charity, Tu Sach Cao Vong (Rainbow Bookcase), but most of all to prove to the world that her generation of women, and Vietnamese women especially, can go past any limitations put on them by history. Blending long-distance interval running with The Bike Shop’s David Greenfield and hardcore PT workouts with California Gym’s Master trainer Al Morgan, Thanh has everything going for her, but that doesn’t mean she expects it to be easy. Far from it. A skim through her blog from last year’s Atacama Crossing gives an insight into just how tough she found it, and the mental fortitude wrapped up in this five-foot-nothing package. “This is really hard… I’d like to think I’m tough and I’ve done the mileage and the terrain training, but my God, whoever designs the course knows how to push your mind and body to the limit, at every single step. But I promise I won’t give up as long as I can still move my limbs. Run, walk, crawl, I will do whatever it takes.” — Thanh Vu, October 2015 Learn more about Thanh Vu’s epic journey into history on her YouTube channel or on Facebook, and follow the 4 Deserts Series at 4deserts.com. To donate to Thanh’s charity Rainbow Bookcase, go to tusachcaovong.com — Jon Aspin

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Briefings HCMC

Songkran Thailand’s water festival returns to Saigon

t may seem odd to celebrate the Thai New Year, Songkran, in Ho Chi Minh City, especially as the honour is unlikely to be reciprocated in Thailand. But as Linh Nguyen from Saigon Outcast has discovered after holding Songkran events for the past two years, it’s an event that everyone just seems to love. So much so that last year 3,500 people tried to get in the door of Outcast for Songkran, which meant the 1,000-capacity venue had to turn people away. As a result, on Saturday, Apr. 16 Outcast will be hosting this year’s festival, Get Wet, at Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien, or the Youth Cultural House on Pham Ngoc Thach, just a stone’s throw away from Notre Dame Cathedral and next door to Diamond Plaza. “A major part of Vietnamese culture is borrowed from the Chinese,” says Linh, “But we also have a strong Thai-Khmer heritage. So why not enjoy and celebrate the best of both cultures?”

A Downpour Moving venues means attracting a wider audience than in previous years, especially as the capacity of the Youth Cultural House is 4,000. Fortunately, for anyone with a passion for getting wet, the festival will be more than just water guns and buckets filled to the brim with liquid, or as Linh describes it, “a huge water fight minus the Thai boxing.” A wide range of vendors will be on site selling anything from Thai cuisine to Mexican in an attempt to “maintain our warriors’ endurance”. Adds Linh: “Beverages will range from healthy juices to the confidence boosting Mai ‘Thai’.” There will also be live music and DJs taking the stage to provide the tunes. Already on board are Cheesy Gangstaz, Starchild and Maraphobia, Cherushi Die the Russian violinist and rap outfit, 95 Generation, while Crazy Monkey is designing the Thai theme, water, Zen and

elephant visuals for the event. Additional acts will be announced closer to the date. However, as this is likely to be the largest water festival ever held in Vietnam, Linh adds a few words of advice. “Everyone should come in shorts and tees,” he says. “No bikinis are allowed — after all this is a family and cultural event. Waterproof phone covers and a spare change of clothes are also recommended.” Let the skies open and the Red Sea part. You’re not about to get wet, you’re about to get soaked. For more info click on saigonoutcast.com or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. Early bird tickets are VND130,000, with general admission costing VND260,000. Tickets on the cost VND360,000 and kids go for free. Tickets are available at Saigon Outcast, deciBel and online at ticketbox.vn. Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC

Last year's Songkran at Saigon Outcast

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Sports Digest

Ironman (or Ironwoman)

Getting ready for a triathlon is no small feat, as Harry Hodge learns. Photos Francis Xavier

hen you meet Phuong Tieu Nguyen in person, you pretty much assume no sport is beyond her. A personal trainer in Ho Chi Minh City, the lean and toned Phuong admits that even for her, the upcoming Ironman Triathlon in Danang remains a daunting undertaking. Especially when you’re learning to swim. “In reality, I do not like triathlons because I’ve been afraid of swimming since I was

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a kid,” she told Word as she prepares for the second running of the event on May 8. “Starting learning to swim in January, the result was pretty bad because I could not do freestyle swimming. With two months left to the race, I switched to breaststroke.” Participants must complete a 1.9km ocean swim, a two-loop 90km bike course that takes them along Danang’s coastline and a final 21km out-and-back run course which is flat and passes by many of Danang’s beach

resorts before finishing at the foot of the Marble Mountains. Last year, she took part in a mixed relay for the Ironman in the running leg, with her team finishing third overall. “I like to tackle challenges where most people would not,” she said. “Running is my strength but I have started cycling. My times are quite good despite the fact that I’m only a beginner in this field.” Her preparation is impressive, running 10km each morning

Vietnamese Shooter Takes Bronze in Thailand Vietnamese shooter Ha Minh Thanh won a bronze medal at the ISSF Rifle and Pistol World Cup in Bangkok, Thailand last month, according to Vietnam News. Thanh, 30, who had never won a World Cup medal before, finished third in the men’s 25m rapid fire pistol event. Earlier, another Vietnamese player Hoang Xuan Vinh won the men’s 10m air pistol bronze medal. Vietnam now have two shooters — Vinh and Tran Quoc Cuong — who will compete in the 2016 Olympic Games in Brazil this summer, following their success at the 51st ISSF World Championships in Spain.

Vietnam Routed in Olympic Qualifiers in Osaka

at 4am, biking 60km one day a week and swimming 6km throughout the week. It helps she is at the gym three hours a day for six days a week as a master trainer for California Fitness. On a normal day she is up at 2.30am to start training and in bed by 7.30pm. “I am giving myself a target that I’ll participate in all international races in Vietnam,” she said, eyeing the Sapa Ultra Marathon in October. She is also lining up the Standard Chartered

Marathon in Singapore for December and racing in Thailand next year. She is also proving there is indeed life after 40, as one of the top-ranked female runners under 50 in the country at various distances, and is looking to add to her accolades. When asked why she takes on so many races, her response was straightforward. “I really enjoy running, and I love the feeling of winning,” she said. “That’s why I love racing.”

Vietnam ended their journey in the AFC Women’s Olympic Football Tournament Rio 2016 qualifiers in Japan with a forgettable winless run last month, when they lost their last match against South Korea. The Vietnamese women had a fun time celebrating International Women’s Day the day before the game, but the elevated spirits still failed to help them find a victory. South Korea scored twice in each half of the match, which was hit by a heavy downpour in Osaka, to secure their first-ever victory at the tournament, following two draws and two losses in the previous games. Vietnam left the event with zero points and 18 goals against after five straight defeats.

Young Ballers Show Their Stuff Jr. NBA, the NBA’s global youth development programme that promotes basketball participation and an active lifestyle among children, has returned to Vietnam for the third consecutive year beginning last month, according to Vietnam News. The expanded programme will reach more than 200

schools in Vietnam with clinics in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The programme will run through to June 2016 and engage more than 4,500 boys and girls. A series of school clinics will be conducted leading up to the selection camp on Apr. 9, where the top 40 boys and top 24 girls aged between 10 and 14 will be chosen to participate in the Jr. NBA National Training Camp in Ho Chi Minh City from Jun. 17 to Jun. 19. The National Training Camp will once again be attended by an NBA legend or current player and feature an NBA Cares community outreach event. The programme will culminate with the selection of 10 boys and five girls, who will be named as 2016 Jr. NBA Vietnam All-Stars and then play overseas in Southeast Asia later in the year.

Vietnam Notches Surprise Tennis Win over Indonesia Nguyen Hoang Thien defeated Aditya Hari Sasongko on Sunday to secure Vietnam’s 3-2 victory over Indonesia at a 2016 Davis Cup Asia/Oceania Zone Group II match in Surakarta last month. Thien’s win was a bit of an upset as most people had predicted a loss for Vietnam, especially after Ly Hoang Nam quit another singles match earlier on the same day due to muscle cramp. As a result of the victory, the Vietnam Tennis Federation has awarded the team US$10,000. In the next round, Thailand will host Vietnam and Chinese Taipei will play the Philippines from Jul. 15 to Jul. 17.

s date p u d r Sen out you p or ab g grou @ in ry sportnt to har .com eve vietnam word

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ToDo

list HCMC

Exhibitions, Aussie Rules, Clean Up Vietnam, Comedy, Songkran and a beer festival. April’s got a lot in store for this city 2

Morning In the Mountains

Irish comic Aidan Killian is back in Saigon for a second time

Canvas and Wine has two outings this month. In the second you’ll get a chance to work with clay

The Belgian Beer Festival is returning this month. Who needs wine, anyway?

Westcoast’s annual Smiles Art Contest runs until May 13

Time to get your kids arty at Vinspace

A work from the latest exhibition by Nguyen The Hung

Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Ongoing through Thursday, Apr. 21 Craig Thomas Gallery is exhibiting a new series of works by Hanoibased artist Nguyen The Hung. The exhibition of mixed-media paintings opened on Mar. 25 and runs until Apr. 21. Nguyen The Hung draws much of his inspiration from the ethnic minority peoples of his native Tuyen Quang Province. This particular series was inspired by a volunteer effort to teach art to children in the Ha Giang Highlands. This is his fourth solo exhibition with Craig Thomas Gallery since he graduated from the Hanoi Fine Arts University in 2009. To learn more, visit the gallery online at craigthomas.com. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC

VinSpace: Spring Camp VinSpace, Q2 and D7 Ongoing through Friday, Apr. 22 If your little ones are underfoot — why aren’t they in school? — then take them to Spring Camp! While perhaps not as exciting as a Space Camp, kids get to do art and not be hurled into outer space!

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3 Have your kids do something creative in the real world, and let the qualified, English-fluent instructors take them off your hands every day from 9am to 12pm. Each camp runs for one week, from Monday to Friday. To learn more, such as the price or about May’s upcoming Doing Chores camp, email info@vin-space.com or call 0907 729846. VinSpace has locations at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2 and S24-1 Le Van Thiem, Q7

Smiles Art Contest Westcoast International Dental Clinic, Q1 Until May 13 If your children have been bitten by the art bug, and you’d like them to look after their teeth, this one’s definitely for you. Get them involved in this years’ Smiles Art Contest where they can win an Ipad Air 2, a Playstation 4 or a Digital camera for any dental artwork involving a Superhero theme! Run and organised by Westcoast International Dental Clinic as part of May’s dental health month, this could be the perfect thing to inspire your kids in the run up to the end of the school year. To find out more go to westcoastinternational.com/ in-the-community

A Night with Aidan Killian Game On, Q1 Wednesday, Apr. 7 Anyone who went to the Magners International Comedy Festival last month will know what a feast of comedy we were treated with. Not wanting to let the laughter die or the momentum fall flat on its faltering face, Saigon International Comedy is back for more with a show headlined by Irish stand-up Aidan Killian. His second trip to Saigon, the Irish gagster is known for his intelligent, impassioned and hilarious rants that have led to appearances on BBC Newsnight, RTE, 98 FM, 4FM, Spin FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival and gigs at some of the largest comedy festivals on this planet. This year he has already taken the stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe and Adelaide Comedy Festival in Australia, and confirmed on his schedule is the Glastonbury Festival in the UK and his sixth one-man show at the Edinburgh Fringe. Described by Chortle as a “Wonderful story teller” and a comedian giving a “Master class in satire,” he will be supported by up and coming American comic, Sam Thomas, who will be returning to Vietnam for the umpteenth time. Also on the roster will be awardwinning local comic, Diana Bailey,

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5 PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Australian gagster Kieran Michaels, and taking on the role of MC will be American stand-up Brian Armstrong. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a complimentary Magners Irish Cider. Game on is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC and doors are at 8pm. For bookings and info, email nick@ saigoninternationalcomedy.com

Canvas and Wine VinSpace Art Studio, Q2 Apr. 7 and Apr. 21 On Thursday, Apr. 7, it’s time to make Light Sculptures. Let’s hope you’re reading this online, or you missed your chance to bend light

itself to frivolous and possibly even artistic purposes. Tame one of the fundamental forces of the universe with nothing more than wood, wire, fabric and moxie… for art’s sake. On Thursday, Apr. 21, it’s time to show your bust. Your clay bust, of course — get to grips with a truly timeless medium, and learn how to play God as you shape lumps of clay into the likenesses of people. Canvas and Wine events run from 6.30pm to 9pm. Tickets cost VND874,000 and include all materials and two glasses of wine. Groups of four get 15% off, and teachers get 20% off. To learn more, visit vin-space.com/ canvas-and-wine or call 0907 729846

Belgian Beer Festival Cargo Bar, Q4 Friday, Apr. 15 Get ivre (or bezopen, si vous préférez) in classy Eurostyle when the Belgian Beer Festival carouses through Ho Chi Minh City. Chugging along from 6.30pm onward, the Festival will feature 50 types of Belgian beer, Belgian food, a DJ and a lucky draw. Block off the ides of April now if you love Leffe, Lutosa, Chimay and Duvel, or any other beer brewed by robe-wearing monks in misty Belgian woods. Santé! Tickets cost VND300,000 and are

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ToDo list HCMC

3 Product of Australia. Alcohol content: 12.5%

available at belgianbeerfestival.com. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Onslaught

The Thai New Year, Songkran, is about to be celebrated in Saigon. Expect lots ‘n lots of water

Konstantin Giegling will be spinning at the Observatory this month

Time to give Vietnam a bit of a clean up

The Taste of Australia is coming to Saigon between Apr. 15 and Apr. 24

Thrash metal band Onslaught are-a-comin’ to Saigon

Saigon Ranger, Q1 Friday, Apr. 15 Onslaught — or rather, ONSLAUGHT! *$%& YEAH! — are coming to Saigon to play their legendary album, The Force, in full to celebrate their 30th anniversary. Thrash Productions, Viet Thuong Music and Red Rock are proud to present this unique event: the first-ever visit to Vietnam by this international thrash metal band. The veteran outfit was formed in 1983 in Bristol, England by guitarist Nige Rockett and drummer Steve Grice. Since then, they have released a veritable onslaught of albums and rocked faces on the road with metal heroes such as Anthrax and Motörhead. Tickets cost VND300,000 and can be purchased through Ticketbox or by contacting vthrashproductions@gmail. com. The show starts at 8pm… if you’re metal enough. Saigon Ranger is at 5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC

Taste of Australia Central Ho Chi Minh City Apr. 15 to Apr. 24 Taste of Australia is a Vietnam-wide

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celebration of Australian food, beverage and cuisine, with exciting events being run across Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Central Vietnam. Experience Australian cuisine, high-quality Australian produce, and full-bodied Australian wines through retail and restaurant promotions, feature dinners, wine tastings, supper club events, culinary competitions and more. At present, Mekong Merchant, Le Meridien and Caravelle Saigon have arranged their events and promotions, with a lot more venues to come. Simply check the website for info. To book your Taste of Australia experience or get details please see tasteofaustralia.com.vn and facebook. com/tasteofaustralia.vn

Giegling The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Apr. 16 If underground dance music is your thing, The Observatory has a treat in store: German record label Giegling is coming to town to drop crazy beats mit Autorität. So prepare to lawfully and efficiently get your groove on. Two of the cutting-edge underground label’s founders will be spinning, mixing and — dare I hope? — beatboxing (but not really) all night long.

Doors open at 10pm. Tickets are free before 11pm and cost VND150,000 after. To learn more, visit The Observatory or Giegling on Facebook. You can also check out giegling.net, but they’re too cool to have a regular website with actual information. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

Songkran Youth Cultural House, Q3 Saturday, Apr. 16 Thai water festival Songkran is being organised for the second time by Saigon Outcast, but this time, thanks to last year’s craziness, they’re moving the party to the Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien (Youth Cultural House) in District 3. Come armed to the teeth or buy water guns, water balloons and coloured powders, and dispatch your fellow attendees to a soundtrack provided by top local and international DJs. If dancing and waterfights don’t spark your imagination, then ride the slip n’ slide or go nuts in the bouncy castle. If none of that sounds like fun, your inner child went missing. Last year’s Saigon-kran was a runaway smash, so buy tickets early or stay dry. And remember, April is the cruellest month... fear death by water-fight.

5 For more info click on saigonoutcast. com or go to facebook.com/saigonoutcast. Early bird tickets are VND130,000, with general admission costing VND260,000. Tickets on the cost VND360,000 and kids go for free. Tickets are available at Saigon Outcast, deciBel and online at ticketbox.vn. Nha Van Hoa Thanh Nien is at 4 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, HCMC. You can also check out our article on Songkran on page 24

Clean Up Vietnam Central Ho Chi Minh City and Mui Ne Sunday, Apr. 17 As part of the Clean Up Vietnam

day on Sunday Apr. 17, the team are working with bars and restaurants in town (and Mui Ne) who will be organising clean-ups around their locales over the course of that weekend. In addition to hosting the clean-ups they will be offering great discounts on food and drink to all those who register and participate. There will also be prizes for people who collect the most rubbish. Clean Up Vietnam will be providing waste bags and gloves for the clean-up events, as well as giveaways and prizes for participants. They will also help with the disposal of all rubbish collected. Participating bars and restaurants

include — Pitchers, Shrine, Tavern, Tippy’s, Emergency Room, Chuck’s, Quan Ut Ut, Chickeez, La Fiesta, La Fenetre Soleil, Pasteur Street Brew House, Con Bo Map, Little Kingston Reggae Bar Mui Ne, and Soul Burger. Clean Up Vietnam want to raise awareness of their initiative in it’s first year so that next year there will be a greater number of people willing to get involved. For more info, contact Scott Alderson from Clean Up Vietnam via cleanupvietnam.org or on director@ cleanupvietnam.org. Alternatively, get in touch Peter Cornish on Facebook via facebook.com/peter.cornish1

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 31

ToDo list HCMC

Dragonfly Theatre’s latest production, an adaptation of Roald Dahl’s novel, George’s Marvellous Medicine

The Inspiring Women series of workshops returns in May

Bizet’s Carmen will be performed at the HCMC Opera House in early July

Flower power. Well, maybe not. ND Baumecker plays Observatory on Apr. 23

Yo, dude! It’s Pablo Valentino

Pablo Valentino

2016 ANZAC Friendship Match

The Observatory, Q4 Friday, Apr. 22

Lord Mayor’s Oval, Vung Tau Saturday, Apr. 23

DJ. Producer. Visionary. Sorcerer. Pablo Valentino is coming to Ho Chi Minh City to weave his unique, nearly-unclassifiable brand of sonic wizardry. Get ready, get set, get yourself to the Observatory to see Mr. Valentino do it his way. Doors open at 10pm. Tickets are free before 11pm and cost VND150,000 after. To learn more, visit The Observatory on Facebook or ask the coolest person you know. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC

The Vietnam Swans’ annual ANZAC Friendship Match returns to Vung Tau on Apr. 23. The Swans will host the Jakarta Bintangs in the seventh installment of this match, which sees Vietnam play different teams from around the Asian region in an AFL game on the very ground where Australian troops played football during the American War. The day will include a mixed AFL match, an Auskick kid’s clinic and a Legends vs All Stars match before bounce-down of the blockbuster game between Vietnam and Jakarta. The McMillan Dinner will return this year to the brand new Pullman hotel on the Saturday night, with tickets available for purchase online. Money raised through the day will be donated to the Swans’ key charities — Swim Vietnam and Vung Tau Orphanage. For more information or online dinner ticket sales visit vietnamswans.com/ anzac-2016. Anyone interested in playing the mixed or Legends game can contact Maz at mairead.scanlon24@gmail.com.

ND_Baumecker The Observatory, Q4 Saturday, Apr. 23 Master eclecticist, raised in Frankfurt and now based in Berlin, where he holds a residency at the Panoramabar and runs his own acclaimed label, ND_Baumecker, cannot be put into any box, but can definitely make the rooms he plays in shake. Scenesters will not want to miss this one. Doors open at 10pm. Tickets are free before 11pm and cost VND150,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC or online at facebook.com/theobservatoryhcmc

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Inspiring Women Workshop Series Hotel des Arts, 76-78 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 May 2016 Kicking off last year, the Inspiring

Women Workshop Series returns for a second outing this May. On Wednesday, May 11, it’s the Vision & Ideal Workshop. Open yourself to new goals and learn the tools you need to make your inner vision an outer one. This is followed by the Balancing Act of Negotiation Workshop on Friday, May 13, which offers a suite of negotiation tactics and strategies uniquely suited to help you negotiate your way to your desired outcome. On Wednesday, May 18 comes the Creativity, Innovation & Leadership Workshop to help you unlock your inner potential for generating new ideas and seeing them to fruition. And finally, on Friday, May 20 the Happiness & Fulfilment Workshop will address the ages-old, yet uniquely modern, problem: can you have it all? Each workshop runs from 8.30am to 12.30pm and costs VND5.5 million (US$250.) Each includes a coffee break, and all necessary materials. Tickets can be purchased via Ticketbox. To learn more, visit inspiringwomen.net and look through their portfolio of events

George’s Marvellous Medicine Saigon Outcast, Q2 May 28, May 29, Jun. 4 and Jun. 5 Dragonfly Theatre will be staging

5 their next production, the Roald Dahl classic, George’s Marvellous Medicine, at the end of May and in early June. George’s nasty old grandma needs teaching a lesson, and he decides the best remedy is a special homemade medicine. What follows from there will only be discovered if you come to the play, which means an afternoon of interactive theatre, food and fun for all the family at Saigon Outcast. All performances start at 4pm and tickets are available at ticketbox.vn. To keep informed, visit Dragonfly Theatre on facebook.com/dragonflyvietnam. These shows are expected to sell out fast. So get your tickets quickly. Saigon Outcast is at 188 Nguyen Van

Huong, Q2, HCMC

Carmen, The Opera Ho Chi Minh City Opera House Jul. 1 and Jul. 2 The most famous French opera in the world, if not the most played, is coming to Saigon in a unique artistic collaboration between France and Vietnam. The HCMC Conservatory of Music, the French Institute of Ho Chi Minh City and Lys Events will be staging George Bizet’s Carmen for the first time ever in Vietnam on Jul. 1 and Jul. 2 at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. This project will showcase talent from Vietnam and France in both

vocal and instrumental parts. Carmen will be played by Nguyen Thanh Huyen while Don José will be performed by Patrick Garayt, with all other on-stage roles given to lyrical singers based in Vietnam. The orchestra will be conducted by Mr. Carlos Dourthé, musical director of the Choir and Orchestra of Paris Universities, and lead by soloists from the French National Orchestra, while the ensemble will be directed on stage by Brian Riedlinger, the artistic director of the International Choir & Orchestra of Ho Chi Minh City. For more information contact Tu Tho from Lys Events on tutho@ lysevents.com or click on lysevents. com

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

Just HCMC

Uncle Bill’s opens in Q7, the Singapore Grand Prix, new restaurants and a soon to be inaugurated ambulance service

1 1 3

PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

The new MAD House in District 7

TJake’s is located on the spot once occupied by Mogambo

The new Ho Tram Gallery Villas look nothing short of spectacular

Love your sports? The new website saigonsportsbar.com might just be what you’re looking for

Cars head down the Pit Straight at the start of 2015’s Singapore Grand Prix

Uncles Bill’s Opens in District 7

Inside Uncle Bill’s in District 2

2 PHOTO PROVIDED BY SINGAPORE GRAND PRIX

If you live in District 2, you’ll be no stranger to Uncle Bill’s. Open in Thao Dien for three years, and with a popular following among the area’s residents, at the end of last year Uncle Bill’s extended its reach to Phu My Hung, with the inauguration of its second shop in Sky Garden, a stone’s throw from Vivo City. Laid out with a modern and attractive retail ambience, the new Uncle Bill’s stocks the same product range as its District 2 counterpart. This includes more than 1,800 popular supermarket staples running from household items all the way through to personal care products, clothes, tools, electric items, toys, party accessories, stationary and office products. It’s the kind of place that sells all those kind of goods that you never

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thought you read could buy in Vietnam. Well, now you can! The new Uncle Bill’s is at 1032 (S12-1) Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC. The original store is at 26 Quoc Huong, Q2, HCMC

To take advantage of this deal for the 2016 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix, click on exotravel.com or email formula1@exotravel.com. Alternatively call (08) 3519 4111 ext. 17 or pop into the Thao Dien branch of Exo Travel at 41 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC

Exo Early Bird Tickets for F1 Singapore

Saigon Sports Bar Website

This year’s Formula 1 race in Singapore will take place on the Marina Bay Street Circuit from Sep. 16 to Sep. 18, Exo Travel, the official Singapore Grand Prix agent in Vietnam, is presently offering Early Bird tickets up until Apr. 30. With savings available of up to 12 percent, people who purchase through the Early Bird route will also get the chance to enter a competition to meet their favourite Formula 1 driver in an autograph session on Sep. 15, the day before the start of the Grand Prix.

A new website has been launched intent on fulfilling all your sporting desires, at least, if you live in Saigon, that is. Found at saigonsportbar.com, the site provides all the televised sports listings you can think of — although not beach volleyball, folks — as well as listings for the local expat sports. It also tells you where you can watch each particular game, match, test, face-off, bout, fight or meet. The site is still in its development phase, but for anyone who clicks on its URL, you’ll see that it has great

PHOTO BY BAO ZOAN

potential as an invaluable resource for people living in this city.

MAD House Opens in District 7 MAD House has just welcomed its second edition in District 7. Located on the second floor of Capri by Fraser, the new version of the Danish-run eatery is airy and comfortable offering a luxury indoor experience with welldesigned chairs and tables. There are also separate, VIP sections for those who like their privacy. Serving up contemporary, European-influenced cuisine, the menu has a wide range of options from starters (going from VND45,000) and main courses (starting from VND175,000) to grills (VND375,000 for a 250g Australian strip loin) and seafood. A well thought out wine list is also on offer as is a wide selection drinks and cocktails.

MAD House is located on 2 Street C, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC. For more info visit their facebook page at facebook.com/MADhouseD7

Jake’s American BBQ Opened in February Jake’s lies quietly on Pasteur next to Number 5 Bar, on the site formerly occupied by Mogambo’s. This American BBQ and bar has a simple, diner-themed interior with a long bar counter taking up half the space. Focusing on American cuisine, the menu runs the gamut from classic Caesar salads through to burgers, BBQs and desserts, and according to both Jake himself and a number of customers, the joint has been busy almost from day one. Jake’s is running a daily two-for-one happy hour on Tiger draft and house spirits from 3pm to 6pm and is located at 50 Pasteur, Q1. HCMC. Visit

jakesamericanbbq.com for more info

Ho Tram Gallery Villas The Ho Tram Project Company has announced the opening of sales on the latest feature of its Ho Tram Strip development, the Gallery Villas. The 60, three-bedroom villas join The Grand Ho Tram Strip and Vietnam’s best golf course, The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip, as part of this up-and-coming beachside destination. Located less than two hours from Ho Chi Minh City, the villas feature unobstructed sea vistas from the dunes of The Bluffs and range in size from 800 to 1,700sqm. Each property is set over two floors, blending indoor and outdoor living spaces with terraces and private swimming pools. For more information visit galleryvillashotram.com or thebluffshotram.com

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 35

Just HCMC

Last year’s winners of the Saigon Cyclo Challenge, AIM, were pipped to the post by new champions, Guardian

Ambulances ready themselves for action for the new Emergency Medical Response Center

Saigon Cyclo Challenge This year’s Saigon Cyclo Challenge organised by Saigon Children’s Charity at Celadon City (Tan Phu) attracted around 2,000 attendees and raised almost US$25,000 to support Saigon Children’s Charity in its mission of ‘Eliminating Poverty through Education’. Working towards its 25th Anniversary next year (1992 to 2017), SCC is aiming to provide 2,500 scholarships and build 16 schools during 2016. This year’s event welcomed 12 competitive teams from a variety of industries and organisations. Each race heat mixed cyclo racing with team challenges portraying the daily life of students in the Mekong Delta. In the Grand Final, Guardian, taking part for the first time, won a spectacular victory over returning team AIM and two former champions, Nutrifort who came second, and Caravelle Saigon who went home in third place. To find out more about the work of

36 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

SCC go to saigonchildren.com

New Emergency Medical Response Center Passes First Test A soon-to-be completed Emergency Medical Response Center in Ho Chi Minh City went through a full simulation of its ProQA software programme last month. Operating 24/7 and accessible in both Vietnamese and English via the number *9999, the privately-run Emergency Medical Response Center will have its own strategically placed fleet of international standard ambulances to respond to the emergency needs of patients. Initially, limited to Districts 1, 2, and 3 within Ho Chi Minh City, the Emergency Medical Response Center will be in full operation by the end of May 2016. ProQA software is one of the key elements of this service and prompts the call taker what questions to ask and whether or not

they should dispatch an ambulance. Used in 52 countries around the world, it enables the dispatcher to provide full life-saving support to the victim or person calling the service while they are waiting for the ambulance to arrive. The simulation started at 2.30pm at the Emergency Response Center on the 12th Floor of Ho Chi Minh City’s Diamond Plaza. The call came from a person living in Saigon Pearl in Ho Chi Minh City’s Binh Thanh District. Her request was an ambulance for her sister, who had just gone into labour. During the simulation, the call taker was able to ask a number of questions that then allowed her to give advice to the caller on how to deliver the baby. By the time the ambulance arrived, just over six minutes after the original call, the baby had already been delivered. The Emergency Medical Response Center is run by Family Medical Practice. For more information click on vietnammedicalpractice.com

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 37

ToDo

listHanoi Art and comedy, comedy and art, with the odd underground DJ thrown in for fun. This month Hanoi gets creative

A Night with Aidan Killian

5. An image from the latest exhibition by French photographer, Sébastian Laval

CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday, Apr. 7

4. Former Das Racist member, Heems, returns to ATK

Ouissam performing last year somewhere in China

3. Between Apr. 9 and Apr. 19, contemporary art will be coming to the streets of Hanoi. Here’s a map of the locations

Irish gagster Aidan Killian will be performing in Hanoi this month

Anyone lamenting the closure of House of Son Tinh and the regular comedy nights hosted by this much loved venue need not fear. The laughter is returning, but from now on it will be hosted at CAMA ATK. Opening a new roster of shows will be Irish stand-up Aidan Killian. His second trip to Vietnam but his first to Hanoi, the Irish gagster is known for his intelligent, impassioned and hilarious rants that have led to appearances on BBC Newsnight, RTE, 98 FM, 4FM, Spin FM the Vodafone Comedy Festival and gigs at some of the largest comedy festivals on this planet. This year he has already taken the stage at the Perth Comedy Fringe and Adelaide Comedy Festival in Australia, and confirmed on his schedule is the Glastonbury Festival in the UK and his sixth one-man show at the Edinburgh Fringe.

38 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Described by Chortle as a “Wonderful story teller” and a comedian giving a “Master class in satire,” he will be supported by up and coming American comic, Sam Thomas, who will be returning to Vietnam for the umpteenth time. Also on the roster are the amateur comics of the Hanoi Comedy Collective. Entrance is VND200,000 and includes a complimentary Magners Irish Cider. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi and the show starts at 8.30pm. For bookings and info, email Dan on dan@highway4. com

Ouissam CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Apr. 8 Expect a great evening of disco, soulful and afro-inspired house when Ouissam, head honcho of Cliché Records, comes to town. Cliché is renowned for booking the best house and disco parties in

Hong Kong, on boats and rooftops alike. Ouissam will bring his experience and passion for seeking the deepest, most sophisticated, dancefloor-inspired grooves from his collection to spin in CAMA’s intimate setting. Tickets cost VND50,000 on the door. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm, although the bar opens at 6pm

Artworks on the Street Around Central Hanoi Apr. 9 to 19 “Art should be accessible,” says the resident curator at Manzi Art Space. “We are therefore bringing art to public spaces where everyone can see, enjoy, interact or wonder about the work.” Well over a year in the making, the result of Manzi’s desire to broaden audience for contemporary art is Into Thin Air. Ten artworks will move out of the galleries and onto the streets this month with

5 works by artists including Le Giang, Nguyen Manh Hung, Bui Cong Khanh, Nguyen The Son, Nhung Nguyen, Crazy Monkey, Think Playground, Echoes and Nguyen Quoc Thanh. The works will be set up in ten different Hanoi locations over the 10-day exhibition period. Into Thin Air is designed with the following aims: — To encourage artists to think more about their social responsibilities — To enable more access to art for the local public — To build awareness and appreciation for contemporary arts among a local audience via interactive and participatory art projects in public spaces — To contribute to the development of a free and open art scene via the promotion of freedom of artistic creation and cultural expression For more info on the artworks and the locations, click on facebook. com/intothinairhanoi or check out the location map on this page

Heems CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Saturday, Apr. 9 Rapper, visual artist, record label owner, Punjabi-American and native New Yorker, Himanshu “Heems” Suri returns to CAMA

where he performed one of the stand-out gigs of 2014. Following the break-up of his hip-hop outfit Das Racist, Heems released his official debut album, Eat Pray Thug in 2015 at the same time as an exhibition of his artwork opened at the Aicon Gallery in New York City. Tickets cost VND100,000 in advance. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm, although the bar opens at 6pm

Once reserved exclusively for royalty, tranquil Westlake now boasts Hanoi’s Gold-Standard serviced residences. Minutes from the city with unobstructed lake views, Fraser Suites Hanoi offers you the award-winning service even ancient kings would envy.

Laval’s Latest Show Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel, Hoan Kiem Apr. 14 to Apr. 24 Renowned French photographer Sébastian Laval will be exhibiting his latest body of photos at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel this month. The new work represents a distinct departure from his classic black and white, with dramatic works in colour taken from 6pm until 6am in Hanoi along with his most recent new works taken at night in Hue. The rich colours of the two cities at night are highlights of the exhibition, which will be located in L’Orangerie and the surrounding gardens. The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel is at 5 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THE FRASER COLLECTION BAHRAIN • BANGALORE • BANGKOK • BEIJING • BUDAPEST • CHENGDU • DOHA • DUBAI • EDINBURGH • GLASGOW • GUANGZHOU • GURGAON • HANOI • HO CHI MINH CITY • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL • JAKARTA • KUALA LUMPUR • LONDON • MANILA • MELBOURNE • NANJING • NEW DELHI • OSAKA • PARIS • PERTH • SEOUL • SHANGHAI • SHENZHEN • SINGAPORE • SUZHOU • SYDNEY • TIANJIN • WUHAN • WUXI • CHENNAI (2014) • AL KHOBAR (2015) • FRANKFURT (2015) • RIYADH (2014)

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 39

ToDo

listHanoi 1 4

Remembering Bui Xuan Phai

5. Queer Disco continues its monthly parties at ATK

4. Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien will be leading a series of workshops this month at Nha San

An image from this month’s exhibition at Art Vietnam, Still Lifes from a Vanishing City

3. A Minicreature Landscape will kick off at Manzi on Apr. 22

The late Bui Xuan Phai is one of Vietnam’s best-known and most revered artists

Apricot Hotel, Hoan Kiem From Apr. 14 The Apricot Hotel will host a collection of artworks by the late Bui Xuan Phai, deemed one of Vietnam’s most “remarkable and charismatic” artists. This is the first time the works have been showcased publicly. The art will hang in the neo-classical lobby of the five-star hotel, complementing the hotel’s permanent collection of original Vietnamese artwork. The hotel will display seven of Phai’s paintings, alongside an array of works illustrating Hanoi’s streets by renowned Vietnamese artists who followed in Phai’s footsteps. Apricot Hotel is at 136 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Tales from a Vanishing City Art Vietnam Gallery, Hoan Kiem Apr. 15 to Apr. 29 Art Vietnam Gallery will present Still Lifes from a Vanishing City, photographs and essays from Yangon, Myanmar, the work of the photographer, poet and writer, Elizabeth Rush. The book creates a snapshot of Yangon and its residents as the city prepares for enormous transformation over the next few years. This work complements her

40 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

earlier focus on the ancient fading beauty of Hanoi, where she curated the exhibition and publication Lost & Found Hanoi. Art Vietnam Gallery is at 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

Minicreatures Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh From Apr. 22 to May 22 Creating a personal visual map of urban space and recreating it in miniature is the passion of artist Vu Kim Thu, and the result will be on display at Manzi for one month. As the artist herself notes: “When travelling, I navigate a new city and draw the city in the form of map. The layout of maps generates structures and orientation that I fill with linear details evoking streets, population, traffic and architecture. Slowly, I create a miniature city out of my drawing, paper sculptures and light.” Entry is free. Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi. For more info, please click on facebook.com/manzihanoi

Exhibition at Nha San Hanoi Creative City, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Apr. 22 The culmination of a series of

workshops with LGBTQ-identified artists conducted by Viet Kieu artist Erin O’Brien, the exhibition on Apr. 22 will focus on using technology to tell the personal stories of queer artists, by creating holographic videos that can be downloaded from the internet and projected via iPhone or tablet. The programme is supported by American Arts Incubator, an entity that facilitates exchange between overseas artists and underserved communities. For info click on facebook.com/ NhaSanCollective. Nha San Collective is on the 15th Floor of Hanoi Creative City, 1 Luong Yen, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. To see more about Nha San, turn to the feature article on page 14

Queer Disco CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday, Apr. 22 Once again, ATK is the location for that monthly dose of fem-pop, catwalks, glamour, pop hits, sultry DJs and more. This is the time to paaaaaaarty, and with an aftershow bash following the same-day exhibition at Nha San by LGBTQidentified artists, expect this month’s offering to be big, big, big. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi. Doors are at 8pm, although the bar opens at 6pm

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Just Hanoi

Maison de Tet Décor has now added Vietnamese cuisine to its menu

Tex-Mex comes to Hanoi in the form of Hanoi Taco Bar

A new English language library has opened in Trich Sai on West Lake

Club Med on Bintan Island in Indonesia, a short boat ride from Singapore

A new population of the endangered grey-shanked douc has been discovered in the Central Highlands

A rendering of an apartment in the new Novotel Suites in Cau Giay

Topas Ecolodge Summer Promotion

Topas Ecolodge Summer Promotion Anyone put off by the new highway to Sapa and the cable car to the top of Fansipan, Vietnam’s highest mountain, should dispense with the ‘argh’ factor. One resort in the Sapa region still stays loyal to the charm of the mountains that has made this location so famous. Situated 18km from the main city and surrounded by beautiful mountains, valleys and remote minority villages, Topas Ecolodge is one of those places that has been built and run on the concept of sustainability. The majority of the staff have been hired from the local villages and the property is on a constant drive to give back to the local area. To encourage you, the ardent traveller and lover of wonderful locations, to make that trip up to the northwest of Vietnam, throughout May and June, 2016 the resort is offering 20 percent off all room nights. Perfect for anyone wanting to relax in the peaceful mountain atmosphere while enjoying the views. And perfect for anyone who wants to hike along hidden trails and get a taste of the untainted local ethnic culture and their unique way of life. To take advantage of Topas’s summer promotion, click on topasecolodge.com. The resort also offers a limousine service,

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3 the Topas Mountain Express, straight from Hanoi to the lodge

Novotel Suites Opening Promotion The Novotel Suites, located in Hanoi New Urban Area, is on target to open in May and has announced its line-up of features. These include offering the first apartments in Hanoi with their own terrace. Superior studios rent for VND36.2 million per month, with a 10% discount for stays over one month. The complex includes a 24/7 fitness centre, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi, full hotel service with 24-hour reception, restaurant and bars, plus 24-hour room service. Novotel Suites is at 5 Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Hanoi or online at suitenovotel.com. For more info call Tel: (04) 3576 6666 or email info@novotelsuiteshanoi.com

Hope for Endangered Primate Fauna & Flora International (FFI) is celebrating the discovery of a new population of the elusive greyshanked douc, a critically endangered primate which is found only in Vietnam’s Central Highlands. It was thought there were only 800 to 1,000 grey-shanked doucs left in the world, but the new discovery adds at least

500 to that count. Doucs are targeted for the illegal wildlife trade and are hunted for bush meat, traditional medicine and the pet trade. FFI is presently working on the possibility of running ecotourism journeys through the forest, during which visitors would get to experience the extraordinary beauty of the jungle and people of the Central Highlands as well as the possibility of seeing the douc in the wild. For more information, email communications.vietnam@fauna-flora. org or click on www.fauna-flora.org

Vietnamese Home-Style Cuisine at Maison de Tet A recent regeneration of their food menu has seen Maison de Tet decor add modern Vietnamese cuisine with a focus on light flavours to its dining options. Aiming to serve only the freshest ingredients, most sourced organically from Maison de Tet décor’s farm, the sauces, marinades and relishes are made in-house daily. Some of the dinner menu items are gluten free and many of them vegetarian. For more info go to tet-lifestylecollection.com or pop into the café-cumrestaurant at Villa 156, Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Hanoi

PHOTO BY NGUYEN VAN TRUONG / FFI

Topas Ecolodge, a new taco bar, Club Med and a public library

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

PHOTO BY JULIE VOLA

Hanoi Taco Bar Opened in late February in the Old Quarter, Hanoi Taco Bar is aiming to mix the taste of TexMex with the atmosphere of a contemporary, rustic-style bar. Serving up a range of tacos — each costing VND40,000 to VND50,000 a go — also on the menu are chips and dips (from VND25,000), a range of mains (from VND45,000) and the already famous bun cha tacos (VND50,000). Everything here is homemade including the pickles and sauces. With gluten-free and vegan options available, the cuisine is matched by a unique cocktail selection with most of the drinks put together with local ingredients and homemade syrups. Hanoi Taco Bar is at 6 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi or online at hanoitacobar.com. The venue runs regular events including live music, DJ nights and film screenings

Lotus Community Based on the idea of creating a learning community where people can come together to learn in a fun and interesting way, Lotus Community opened last month with a public English language library and a focus on

books and board games. With over 7,000 books in stock — it took a whole year to collect these books in Singapore — and more than 200 board games including anything from heavy strategy through to children’s party games, the family friendly centre is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 10pm, and charges minimal prices for people to play games or use their services. Reading on site is free of charge. Lotus Community is at 11 Trich Sai, Tay To, Hanoi, Tel: 0934 504 804. You can find them online at lotuscommunity.org.vn

Food Cart Other people have tried pop up food carts in Hanoi in the past, but the one put together by foodie Javier Rodriguez could be a winner. “I want to make innovative and creative food and put it on a cart,” he explains. “I like to take classic foods and put my spin on them. I mostly do TexMex because that’s what I grew up cooking and eating, but the concept is more like TexMex meets the world. I hand-make pretty much everything. I really love this food and I want people to feel that when they eat it.”

Serving his products at a range of diverse events around Hanoi, his prices cost from VND30,000 to VND40,000 a dish. For more info click on Facebook.com/foodcarthanoi

Exo Travel Takes on Club Med The Hanoi and Saigon-based travel agency Exo Travel has been appointed the Vietnam agent for Club Med. The pioneer of the holiday club concept, Club Med offers highend, friendly and multicultural holidays for families and couples. With resorts in 26 countries, it boasts 80 Villages on five continents as well as the cruise ship Club Med 2. In Southeast and East Asia there are presently resorts in China, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia and Thailand including places like Bintan Island in Indonesia, a stone’s throw from Singapore. Set on a picturesque beachfront, Club Med Bintan Island has 311 rooms designed with modernity and comfort in mind, and is surrounded by tropical greenery. For more info click on discoverclubmed.co.id/en/ or call Exo Travel on (04) 3828 2150 (Hanoi) or (08) 3519 4111 (HCMC)

Insider

Landing on Water / Ascending Long Bien Bridge / In the Beginning There Wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the Word / Arsenic and Old Lace / Night and Day at the Flower Market / 24 Hour Cafes / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Pho Vit Quay / Mystery Diner HCMC / The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon / Bangkok in Squares / The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh / 10 Destinations in Vietnam to Visit in 2016 / Notes From Another City: Danang, Why? / The Motorbike Diaries Part 13

Photo by Julie Vola

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INSIDER

NATIONAL

Landing on Water As the Hai Au Seaplane service attests, travel is not just about the destination, but the experience of getting there. Emily Petsko and Julie Vola fly by seaplane to Halong Bay wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 47

ucking their heads at the entrance, the first eight passengers of the morning file into a cramped Cessna Caravan plane at Noi Bai International Airport. In the event of an emergency, life jackets should not be inflated inside the aircraft, the pilot calls back from the cockpit. After all, you wouldn’t want to get stuck in the doorway. A middle-aged couple shoots each other nervous glances as the plane accelerates down the runway. Taking off is the easy part, though. It’s the landing — smack dab in the heart of Halong Bay — that’s a bit trickier. Tourists travelling to the UNESCO World Heritage site typically go by car or bus, but now another option exists. Hai Au Aviation, which took off towards the end of 2014, established the first and so far the only commercial seaplane service in Vietnam. After completing its first full year of operations in 2015 and attracting mostly retired and honeymooning couples from Europe and North America, the airline is now hoping to target a new market — expats and local Vietnamese. On the one-hour flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay, passengers won’t get coffee, a plastic-wrapped lunch or their choice of cheesy action flick on the small screen. But

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they will get excitement and unparalleled views. “I want to set the expectation that this is more of an experiential adventure product rather than something that is too expensive and only for the rich,” says Hai Au managing director Dinh Thi Thu Trang. The brainchild of Tran Trong Kien, the founder and current CEO of Thien Minh Group, Hai Au’s mother company, Kien was inspired by the Australian seaplane service at Rose Bay in Sydney. Through his travel agency, Buffalo Tours, he played a significant role in bringing kayaking to Halong Bay 20 years ago. Now he wants to instill in Vietnamese tourism the concept of transportation as an integral part of the sightseeing experience. The result is a flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay that includes a 15-minute scenic flyover (starting from US$275 or VND6.1 million one way), but customers can also opt for a separate, 25-minute scenic tour of the bay (US$99 / VND2.2 million). Good weather permitting, the water landing off the coast of Tuan Chau Island is remarkably smooth. The aircraft glides across the water to a ramp leading ashore, where passengers can board a golf cart to their hotels or cruise ships. But the impression that landing on water is easy is an artful deception. “It’s like night and day,” chief pilot David Radford says of the difference between landing on land and water. Radford explains that it takes a long time to feel comfortable with water landings because the approach is largely dependent on wind direction, and water isn’t able to absorb the impact. “Water doesn’t have much give. When you land on asphalt, you bounce,” he says, adding that the adventure factor adds to the appeal. “It’s very thrilling.” The two captains both hail from Canada, world-renowned for its seaplane services. Four Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process of being trained to someday go it alone. One co-pilot has a background as a historian and

“‘You can almost reach out and grab those islands at Halong Bay, we’re so close to them. This is one (place) that needs to be seen from a bird’s eye view. You just don’t get the same benefit from the water looking up’”

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“For Hai Au Aviation, the low-flying trip over Hanoi and Halong Bay is not just a scenic pursuit — it’s also a history lesson”

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diplomat, and another was among the first Vietnamese to climb Mt. Everest. “I think our pilots have a lot to offer in terms of their stories,” says Trang.

Bird’s Eye View A typical Hai Au flight from Hanoi to Halong Bay reaches an altitude of about 900 meters (3,000 feet) above sea level. During the scenic leg of the flight, the aircraft drops down to 100 to 150 meters. Compare that to the average commercial airliner’s altitude of between 9,000 and 12,000 meters, and it’s evident why the seaplane is such a coveted mode of transportation. On a clear day, the details of the landscape come into sharp focus. Motorbikes chug along narrow paths, farmers toil in the fields and, upon arriving in Halong Bay, massive ships leave trails in their wake like slugs on a pavement. From above, the Red River Delta weaves a breathtaking tapestry of lines, shapes and angles in varying shades of green. Its fields and ponds, cordoned off in neat sections, seem to stretch in patchwork perpetuity. But the symmetry is eventually interrupted, quite abruptly, by a wilder backdrop of turquoise waters and jagged peaks. If the area surrounding Hanoi can be compared to a cubist Picasso painting, then Halong Bay is surely a Dali with its surreal, dreamlike landscape. Halong Bay, which literally means “descending dragon”, somehow appears even more immense from above. “There’s a huge ‘wow’ factor when you come over that coastline,” says Radford of the quick change in scenery. “The spine of the dragon just comes up.” Radford, who has been with Hai Au since

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its inception, has made the journey countless times. Yet the thrill of seeing those peaks has not fizzled out yet. “I see something new every day,” he says, whether it be a fishing village, uninhabited island or karst peak. “You can almost reach out and grab those islands at Halong Bay, we’re so close to them. This is one (place) that needs to be seen from a bird’s eye view. You just don’t get the same benefit from the water looking up.”

Long History in Flying While Hai Au is the first commercial seaplane service in Vietnam, it builds upon a long national aviation history that can be attributed in no small part to French colonialism. In December 1920, a French pilot flew one of the first seaplanes in Vietnam from Hai Phong to Hanoi, and landed just off West Lake. Three years later, a French sub-lieutenant and two Vietnamese engineers made the first non-stop flight from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi, which took a whopping eight hours and 30 minutes compared to the two-hour flight passengers enjoy nowadays. By 1923, Indochina had 60 landing strips. The French built and operated two seaplane bases between 1946 and 1954, which served as a recreational outlet for the military. One was on Hanoi’s West Lake, and the other was situated at Bai Chay in Halong Bay. Perhaps the most iconic photo from this chapter of aviation history is an image from March 1946 of President Ho Chi Minh and French Commissioner Jean Sainteny aboard a Catalina seaplane en route to Halong Bay to meet with French military officials. The Vietnamese leader seems to look on sternly,

almost disapprovingly, as Sainteny takes a large puff on a pipe. Jump forward to the early 1960s and war had descended upon the nation. The area now known as Noi Bai Airport served as the main base for the North Vietnamese air force. Vietnamese aircraft took off from the base to intercept US fighter-bombers that had been launching an aerial attack on Hanoi and surrounding areas. “The airspace over Noi Bai Airport has witnessed some of the most violent air wars of the 20th century,” according to a Hai Au informational recording that has not yet been used during flights. “To this day, in the rice paddies surrounding the airport, one can still find the legacy of their unhappy history with numerous bomb craters dotting the landscape, many of which have been turned into water reservoirs for farmers’ crops.” For Hai Au Aviation, the low-flying trip over Hanoi and Halong Bay is not just a scenic pursuit — it’s also a history lesson.

Tourism Boom The seaplane service marks a larger trend in the continued development of Halong Bay. Yet going forward, Hai Au wants to expand its services and offer flights to other destinations. The airline will begin offering trips to Ninh Binh this summer. Last year, Hai Au served more than 5,000 passengers, and it hopes to double that number in 2016. “This is not necessarily a high-end product,” says Trang. “This is more of a ‘you gotta try it’, once-in-a-lifetime experience.” On our trip to Halong Bay and back, that was certainly how we felt. It was spectacular.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The two captains both hail from Canada, world-renowned for its seaplane services. Four Vietnamese co-pilots are in the process of being trained to someday go it aloneâ&#x20AC;?

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g n o L g n i d n e Asc e g d i r Bien B INSIDER

HANOI

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Chris Humphrey meets with Vietclimb’s Jean Verly for a first taste of urbexing: scaling the rusting dragon that is Long Bien Bridge.

rban exploration, urbex, or UE is a form of recreational urban trespass. Urbexers find a way in to anything from derelict theme parks, sewers and asylums to factories, skyscrapers, missile silos and power stations. Usually they begin in abandoned ruins, searching for beauty in dereliction. Of course it doesn’t have to stop there. You could ascend skyscrapers, or lift manhole covers for subterranean jaunts. If you choose to descend you’re a drainer. On the other hand, cataphiles delve into catacombs, such as those found in Paris, Rome and Odessa. Others refer to UE as building hacking or infiltration, although the latter refers to accessing ‘live’ spaces or secure locations. That may sound destructive, but according to Jeff Chapman, author of Infiltration, urban explorers “never vandalize, steal or damage anything”. Their desire is one of discovery and the chance to take “a few nice pictures”.

Opportunities On the face of it, Vietnam seems ripe with opportunities; semi-rural areas are littered with abandoned buildings, while new constructions and cranes are springing up

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like garden weeds in the big cities. The country’s poor building standards create a serious safety issue, but still the possibilities must be numerous. There was only one way to find out. Thankfully, Jean Verly of Vietclimb had agreed to meet me for an early morning climbing session. I waited for Jean not far from the bustle and scent of Long Bien Market, leaning against my bike on the ramp that winds up to the bridge. We planned to meet early, in the hope of climbing with the sunrise and perhaps missing some of the rush. Both expectations were dismantled by the grey clouds and our own underestimation of Hanoi’s early morning liveliness. The roads were already thick with motorbikes. One of the bikes started to slow as it approached, the rider’s orange shirt standing out against the grey. It was Jean.

Chorus We swung round the little park on the western shore and started heading back, before parking up against the railing halfway across. I showed Jean a diagonal section that essentially acted as a kind of ladder. “Just go through,” Jean said, the most useful advice a newcomer to this city will

ever hear. Regaining my assertiveness, I found a way through. As I crossed the dawn chorus morphed from birdsong to motorbike horns. I held my camera close as I reached the fence. Photography plays a big part in urban exploration. The most prominent example is the ‘hero shot’; backlit adventurers silhouetted in front of cityscapes or underground tunnels. The name of which is also evidence of the scene’s developing phraseology. This new way of interacting with the city requires a whole new lexis. ‘Buildering’ refers to the use of rockclimbing techniques when scaling buildings. ‘Lift surfing’ and ‘ruin porn’, amongst many others, are self-explanatory. My personal favourite is ‘Xmas’, a time when security barely exists, and long sought-after sites become accessible. As these terms suggest, though, there are serious risks. Some are extremely dire; slipping from scaffolding, impaling yourself on metal spikes, drowning in sewage or inhaling toxic dust. Then there’s the legal threat. You could be tried for trespassing, breaking and entering, perhaps even damage to property. And yet the unspoken rule is

that of the country hiker; ‘take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.’ Eventually we reached the inner railing and began to climb. Hand-over-hand on the rusting iron limb, until we reached the midsection. “You have to put your head through the gap and lift yourself up,” I say to Jean, who’s just behind me. We came up onto the last section, a steeply sloping girder leading to the highest point, walking slowly to stay safe. There was barely a breeze today, which helped, and no passing trains to shake the bridge. We must have been about 40 metres above the river when we reached the top. It felt glorious.

Unnoticed Cargo ships passed underneath, so heavily burdened with goods that they were barely afloat. A few men swam in the river, with plastic bottles tied to their bodies to help them stay afloat. Ladies in conical hats sold barbecued corn to pedestrians. Nobody seemed to notice that we were there. We walked as far as we could along the horizontal struts, then headed back to cross the support beams. As we explored I asked Jean about other urbex experiences he’d been involved in. “We bouldered in some abandoned construction sites in An Khanh,” he said, as he looked down the Red River, “but that was a private group, we can’t really... advise that at Vietclimb, it might not be legal.”

“And what about in Hanoi?” I asked. “Well...,” he hesitated, “I was thinking earlier about maybe bouldering on the first floor of the water tower, but that would be more for the photo opportunity. And we climb sometimes on the gate of Dong Da Park, but that’s arranged. I guess we might not call it urban exploration.” “The movement is really just beginning in Vietnam,” he continued. “It’s mainly in Saigon and Hanoi, and there’s a mix of people that get involved. Expats and Vietnamese. But I guess one of the good things here is that… you don’t have the crazy CCTV culture you have in places like London. So there aren’t so many barriers to getting involved.” Perhaps the idea of capturing people on film sparked the thought... I suddenly realised we were missing something crucial; the ‘hero shot’. I told Jean and returned to the steeply sloping girder, this time crouching and pushing with my hands to shoe-ski quickly down the rusty metal to the mid-level point. I stepped back down the diagonal limb and crossed the traffic to reach the edge. Looking up, I could see Jean still up there, statue-like against the clouds as I took the shot. To onlookers, he may look either suicidal or courageous, depending on their perspective. In many ways that sums up people’s attitudes to urbex in general. Urbex will probably always be divisive. People are drawn to it for a number of

reasons; some just for kicks, others are trying to prove a point. Danger is clearly a core element of the scene. The thrill provides the impetus; the anarchy is the attraction. Perhaps it’s for that reason that the movement’s rise in popularity has been met with increasing criticism. Opponents depict it as witless, needlessly dangerous or just plain illegal. But perhaps that’s missing the point. One of the best things to result from urbex is that, no matter what your opinion, it draws our attention to the debate over private and public spaces; what should be accessible in modern cities? Is it possible to re-appropriate space? Whatever your viewpoint, one thing is undeniable. You don’t need anything to do it. Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Word Vietnam

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In the Beginning There Wasn’t the Word Everyone’s got their own version of history. This is our version.

n November 2010 we ran an article with the following opening paragraph: “We would love to say that this month is the fifth anniversary of The Word. It isn’t but it should be.” Without intending it to be so, what followed was incendiary. Not only did the piece bring up the past — this publication and another well-known rag emerged out of a messy business break-up — but it also talked about how all these English language publications in Vietnam came into being in the first place. It gave some history. But this is the problem with history. Everyone has his or her own angle on the past, meaning that out of necessity, it is subjective. As it turned out, our version of events differed substantially from the version of our former business partners. So this month as we turn 100, we’re taking a different

tack. Rather than being edgy and controversial — yes, we know everyone loves a good scandal — we’re being positive. 100 issues is a lot of work, a lot of sweat, blood and held-back tears. To get this far it’s been all about people; the people who’ve made this happen, the people who’ve supported us, and the people who read what we do. You. While there will be some history involved — we all love a good yarn — we’re going to focus on celebrating all the man-hours put in to bring you, free of charge, what we believe is a quality publication. From your own comments through to different uses for the Word all the way over to our best articles, front covers and letters, this month’s cover story is a celebration of a publication that was created to make a difference. We believe we continue to do so.

A Short History of Word This is how it all started. It’s a long story

February 2005 The idea for Saigon Inside Out is first discussed in Singapore while the present chief editor, Nick Ross, and one of the founders of What’s On in Saigon are working together on the relaunch of a magazine called Education.

1994 What’s On in Saigon is published. The expat rag is produced in Saigon, printed in Bangkok and imported into Vietnam.

August 2006 Saigon Inside Out publishes for the last time. 10 issues in and due to licensing problems the people behind the rag are asked to change its name.

1996

November 2005

October 2006

After 18 months, What’s On in Saigon prints its last issue. Vietnam is just opening up and the country is not ready for them. The two founders of the publication leave Vietnam. One of them ends up in Singapore.

After months of preparation, the first issue of Saigon Inside Out hits the streets with a launch party at now defunct bar, Bottom Line. Wellknown musician Juram provides the tunes, while well over 300 revelers and the venue provide the party.

The first issue of Asialife HCMC hits the streets. With one partner leaving and another one getting involved, work gets underway to expand with an edition in Cambodia.

July 2013

December 2006

January 2008

Issue 1 of Asialife Phnom Penh goes onto the magazine stands. Printed in Ho Chi Minh City, the magazine is exported to the Cambodian capital by bus.

The first issue of Word Ho Chi Minh City hits the streets. The launch party is at Xu Saigon and the first advertiser in the magazine is Bien from Xu.

Word Ho Chi Minh City and Word Ha Noi are combined into one publication, Word Vietnam. At first readers from each city are irritated by having to read (or not read) content from elsewhere. But over time the city rivalry begins to dissipate and readers get used to the fact that Vietnam is a big country.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION

JULY LY 2013 L

ER SUMM IN' LOV

October 2007

November 2009

April 2016

After months of infighting, the partnership behind Asialife breaks down and Nick Ross goes off to start a new publication with two other partners — the original Vietnamese partner, Duong Vy Bao, and the sales manager of Asialife, Tran Huynh The Vu.

After much deliberation, Word Ha Noi is finally launched with a party in barefoot at Softwater in Hanoi. All guests had to take off their shoes before entering — the bash was on a lawn in a beautiful setting by the Red River in Hanoi.

Word celebrates its 100th issue. Well, not quite. It’s 100 months since Word Ho Chi Minh City was first launched. Add in the 44 issues of Word Ha Noi and it’s a squared dozen.

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 4 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS

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What You Say Mark Harris UK Lives in Hanoi I think The Word is a stonewall of Hanoi. It provides an accessible platform for young journalists and photographers to get involved in journalism and to showcase what they can do. I always find it quite interesting, obviously after years it must be quite hard to find new things to write about, but I think you do, I think the way that you engage with the community to make the content is really admirable. It’s still relevant and it’s still an awesome read.

Daniele Moretti Italy Lives in Ho Chi Minh City I have been a big fan of Word Vietnam since I got to Vietnam eight years ago. It’s my source of life, my way into the expat lifestyle, and it gives me a bit of a gateway in terms of what’s happening in Vietnam. I still read it now. The content is very useful and informative. I will always be a fan.

Tu Ngoc Vietnam Lives in Hanoi I am very impressed with the visuals of the magazine. I especially love the photography

Some of you like us, some of you don’t, some of you think there is stuff we can improve upon. So we decided to hit the streets and get your comments

Chris Jones Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City To understand Vietnamese people one only has to understand what I call The Six Priorities. They give a very clear insight into the people and culture of Vietnam. They are 1) Family first 2) Self 3) Close friends 4) Other Vietnamese 5) Country 6) Foreigners. Once you understand these six priorities, everything about Vietnam and its people falls into place and becomes crystal clear. As a foreigner you have fewer expectations and therefore suffer fewer disappointments. Alternatively, you can short circuit this whole information gathering process by imbibing Word magazine. It’s the way to go.

Trang Bui Vietnam Lives in Ho Chi Minh City I read Word Vietnam to get information about events, restaurants and destinations. I really like articles about Vietnamese people and the country. As a Vietnamese, I find it interesting when I see my country and its people discovered under completely new angles. Sometimes, I am surprised as I have been living and working in Ho Chi Minh City for a long time, but haven’t heard of some streets or places. Thanks Word Vietnam for such helpful information.

Eva Netherlands Lives in Hanoi It has a lot of interesting articles and the photographs are really nice. I think if you look at the front page, it’s very professional, it’s glossy. I find it a little bit confusing when you see the magazine what it is going to be about, so I am not sure before opening what will be in it. And there are a lot of advertisements in the beginning which I understand. It looks good, interesting.

Lorenz Germany Lives in Hanoi It’s fantastic, especially as it’s for free. It has lots of content, really good design and there aren’t advertisement on every page. I am very impressed, how is it possible to do such a magazine without asking for money. Normally city magazines have less content and more ads.

Brett USA Lives in Hanoi It’s a wonderful, eclectic, happening magazine.

Agnes

Jason

Elizabeth Homfray

France Lives in Hanoi

USA Lives in Hanoi

Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City

I like it. Like Eva it’s not really clear what it is gonna be about, but when you browse the pages it’s interesting information, really aimed at expats. I like that you mention the city (on top of articles). So I just don’t bother reading the Ho Chi Minh City articles. Pictures are nice. Great job it looks very professional.

I love it, I love that there’s a publication that is targeted right at the expat population. It helps us. I think it enriches our experiences of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City by telling us all the amazing things that are going on here.

Kim Mark Seymour Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Honestly, I’ve tried to read it every month, and most months I do. A lot of information. I normally look at what’s happening around town. That’s my favourite. I pick up some events, a few new restaurants. In general, it’s just knowledge for me. There are a lot lovely articles. I still read, though. A good read!

Vietnam Lives in Mui Ne I used to live in Ho Chi Minh City and did a lot of advertising with the Word in the past. Now I’m living in Mui Ne. I have been out of Ho Chi Minh City about three years. I don’t have much to do with the Word anymore. But before I thought it was good, that was the reason why I used to advertise with Word. We owned Juice, Pacharan, Living and Giving, quite a few places.

Ron Davis CK Vietnam Lives in Hanoi I think it’s great. There’s a lot of information and that would be the exact thing that I would look at to find a place to hang out, or to learn about cities in Vietnam — Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City in particular.

Australia Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Good magazine. I think it needs to listen to what foreigners are going to say and what’s happening here. When you talk about the culture and food, it’s excellent. But I also think politically that you have to be careful. I think maybe you could approach a little bit more of it.

When I first arrived here many years ago there were no expat forums or Facebook pages dedicated to helping you find your way in this sometimes hard-to-manoeuvre city. Word was a Godsend, with information to help with just about everything. After tracking down those hard to find items I would then head to one the restaurants recommended and read up on upcoming events, look into the lives of other Saigoneers and plan my next adventure. These days I just like grab a copy to see what everyone is up to and what’s new around town.

Marion Vigot France Lives in Ho Chi Minh City Word is a great source of information. The content is well-balanced and unique. Every issue focuses on a different theme and their team is always finding interesting and fun things to tell us about. More importantly Word is in English and it’s one of the rare magazines that I can actually read in Vietnam, with updated information. Maybe more beauty related content would make it better!

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Inbox We’ve got eight years worth of your emails and comments online. Some are good, some are bad and some are downright bizarre. Here’s a selection.

April 2010

January 2010 (Once a Foreigner, Always a Foreigner, December 2009) Nick (Nick Ross is the author of the article), you couldn’t be more PC if you tried. Your article was complete rubbish. The main problem is not foreigners, but the Vietnamese people themselves. They have absolutely no interest in allowing foreigners to integrate into their society. I have been in Vietnam for a very long time, can speak Vietnamese and am married to a Vietnamese. May I suggest you take an elementary course in Vietnamese culture, read a book, or more importantly, be honest!

business

“A lot of people know how to run restaurants, and a lot of people know how to run a business, but that’s irrelevant if you don’t have the Vietnamese side of the business tied up.”

(A Capital Affair, Mar. 2010) You mention that you should never speak Vietnamese as a foreigner when doing business or you will be treated more harshly. What complete rubbish! If more people learnt to speak “business Vietnamese”, there would be less stories of people being ripped off.

A Capital Affair It’s usually Saigon that is touted as the place to do business in Vietnam. But Hanoi offers lots of opportunities as yet untouched by entrepreneurs. Just don’t expect it to be easy. Words and photos by Nick Ross.

HANOI IS A LAND OF OPPORTUNITY, but doing business in the capital is far from simple. Many companies see a niche and go up north, but finding it and filling it successfully is far from straightforward. So much so, that many have given up. The gaps in the market are there, but making it work well is a challenge. And yet, there are others who have managed to make it a success. Look at the Highlands Coffees, KFCs and Al Fresco’s groups of this world. Then there are manufacturers like Canon and Honda, all who seem to do good business in Hanoi. The big wine companies do a good trade, particularly in premium Bordeaux wines, while a whole host of other enterprises, both local and from overseas, have managed to set up shop there. So, what is the secret?

Partners and Perseverence For Craig “Jacko” Jackson of the Al Fresco’s group, the secret is a mixture of perseverance and your choice of business partner. With his first restaurant, Al Fresco’s, open in Hanoi since 1995, and now with 22 outlets and 850 staff, in the early days he had his fair share of difficulties. From staffing problems to an expat community of the time who felt he would fail like so many others before him, in the mid 1990s he “could have given up many times over”.

“Even when I was at my darkest hour,” he recalls, “I still dug in because I wasn’t going to be beaten. It was very, very difficult.” For Jacko, though, his choice of starting the restaurant in Hanoi rather than Saigon was purely down to the person he would be able to partner with. And to this day, he believes this is the key. “Although we realised that Saigon was a much bigger market, we thought it was much more preferable to have a Vietnamese partner who we could trust, than to have a market share,” he explains. “A hundred percent of nothing is still nothing. So, we felt we would go with where the strength was. A lot of people know how to run restaurants, and a lot of people know how to run a business, but that’s irrelevant if you don’t have the Vietnamese side of the business tied up. So, if you don’t have the connections with the government, with the taxation department and so on, if you can’t sort all that out, then there’s no point doing business here.” He adds: “If you have a fair-minded partner and you’re fair-minded with what you give them for their workload, then they’re happy and you’re happy and it makes a big difference. Don’t try to keep everything for yourself.”

The Staff Giorgio Vergano, the face of the Italian coffee

brand Punto Italia, agrees. Up and running in 2008, his venture is still in its early days and he finds that doing business in the capital “is a learning process that will never end”. For him, however, especially in Hanoi, planning in advance is vital as is having good connections. “Knowing people is important,” he says. He also cites having good staff as being key. “I now have good people working with me who are Vietnamese,” he explains. “They help in many situations.” Matt Law of Le Pub has the same experience. With a bar in Ho Chi Minh City, the original Le Pub on Hang Be in Hanoi and a third version set to open in West Lake this month, it is not just your business partner that matters, but also your staff. Matt counts himself lucky. “Find someone you trust to be your partner,” he explains, “and trust them with your life. Don’t just wander into town and find the first bloke you meet. It’s got to be someone you trust. Also, employ people you’ve learnt to be close with and be prepared to spend the first two or three years watching every single thing they do.” He adds: “You often go into bars where there is a foreigner shouting at the end of bar, screaming at staff. It just doesn’t work. Your staff have to like you in order to respect you and do good work for you.”

Know your Market With any business, knowing who your customers are and fitting your product to their needs is an important component in making things work. Hanoians are vastly different from their counterparts down south. “The people in Hanoi are very discerning,” explains Jacko. “They are loyal people. Once they like your outlet, they will keep coming to your outlet as long as you treat them fairly and with respect.” At the same time, as anyone who has had experience doing business in the north will testify, Hanoians can sometimes be tough to deal with and are occasionally self-important. Also, as Jacko points out, “compared to Saigon, people in Hanoi are much tighter, much more careful with their money.” He cites the scenario of the various discount cards issued by his restaurants. In Saigon, people won’t really bother with them so much, but in Hanoi, “even though people have got lots of money”, almost all the customers use a discount card. “It’s a different mentality”.

Some Tips There are a whole host of things that you need to learn if you want to do business in Hanoi, but talking to people in the capital, the following points seem to be key:

2) Make sure you have good Vietnamese partners, colleagues and people to work with you. 3) If you’re a foreigner, when you’re doing business, don’t try to do business in Vietnamese. For social situations, Vietnamese is perfect, but for business, avoid going local. The moment you start using Vietnamese you will be judged more harshly. 4) Show people that you like them. Don’t just pretend. You really need to like the people you work with. 5) Never lower your standards, no matter what situation you’re in. If you’re a foreigner, then stick to what you know. If you’re Vietnamese, then remain principled, no matter how much it may cost you in the short term. This is far from the perfect answer to how you can take advantage of the business opportunities available in Hanoi, but hopefully, if you’re taking the plunge or are going to move up north, this will be helpful. For this writer it certainly is.

March 2010 The Word | 49

48 | The Word March 2010

December 2010 Hold on a sec! Is it just me or does The Word have the best looking staff in Saigon? Without naming names I’ve had the pleasure of running into several of the guys and girls that work for the publication on many a drunken night out and can categorically say that I quite fancy them all! Are any of you single?!

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1) Know your business backwards. Don’t come in as a novice. You need to know what you are doing.

April 2011

The Prelude February 2011 Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực

CITY

.com

S I N G L E S

City

w w w .w or Chi P dh lu an Sec M s oi tio inh

Miss Plevin, I recently had the misfortune of coming across your editorial piece in the February issue of the word magazine (The Prelude, February 2011) in which you referred to “a lot” of expats as being “somewhat damaged goods”. Damaged goods. What a charming turn of phrase you Americans have. Only someone who grew up in a cutthroat society that quickly divides its entire population into a few “winners” and a vast underclass of “losers” would have the nerve to use such a vile and hateful descriptive of the very people your publication claims to cater to. To your credit you do not refer to all expats by that termonly most of them. How kind of you. Am I to take it then that you exclude yourself and your friends from such a categorization? Of course you do. The chosen ones. One wonders how your kind survive being forced to rub shoulders with such a desperate rabble on a daily basis. I also find your use of the word

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

Damaged Goods

Front Cover Design by DH Advertising Photo by Aaron Joel Santos

hile interviewing the 18 eligible bachelors and bachelorettes for this month’s cover story, one charming bachelor turned the question around. “Well, Julia, he says, “what do you think is difficult about the dating scene in Hanoi?” I was rendered momentarily speechless. Chuck Klosterman writes about being a journalist on the other side of the questions. Here I had been prying into the hearts and souls of those looking for love, or at least a date, in Hanoi and I had no succinct answer myself. But now I’ve figured it out. Outside of the tired complaints — language and cultural barriers, the community is too small, most western men prefer Vietnamese women, some western men resent

western women for assuming the former — the truth holds that Vietnamese women are unfairly adorable and a lot of expats are somewhat damaged goods. However, I’ve come to realise there is something deeper. A lot of us who have decided to make Hanoi a home away from home, for the short term or the long run, wanted to experience something outside of the homes and the lives we grew up in. We’re a tough bunch to please — always seeking something new, fresh, and adventurous — and not willing to settle for anything, let alone settle down. And when life is so transient and something better always seems to be waiting down the line, unless it’s love at first sight it’s hard to pin down that perfect soulmate. We’re not pretending that

we can make miracles in this month’s cover story, but hopefully we can find a way to match off some singles. But we need you to give us your help — simply send an SMS to 01696 809735 with the voting code of your favourite bachelor and favourite bachelorette. When we have counted up your votes we will choose two winning couples to go on dates in two of the city’s best restaurants. Until then, we wish you a Happy Tet and Happy Valentine’s Day. May you be surrounded with people who love you and can keep you warm this winter. And if you want to share what you love — or hate — about The Word, we’ll always embrace you with open inboxes. Just email julia@wordhanoi.com or ian@ wordhanoi.com.

June 2012 (Is Saigon for Hipsters? April, 2012)

Inbox DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL JULIA AT JULIA@WORDHANOI.COM

MARKET GUIDE That market issue (The Insider’s Guide to Markets, December 2010) was really helpful and well done. I used the information to buy all of my Christmas presents and my friends and family were totally stoked. I especially liked learning about leggings street (Gia Ngu). I can’t wait for another guide like this one. — Sasha

SURPRISINGLY PROFESSIONAL I must say that The Word is surprisingly professional and refreshingly sophisticated for an English language city publication. Hanoi's expat population is not huge and the publication probably has few resources and does not generate much revenue. Still, look at the striking photography and the incisive writing. Impressive. The staff that puts this out makes tiny salaries and this effort comes obviously from an inner-passion and personal interest. Bravo. We are lucky to have The Word free of charge every month and I hope that it continues to evolve and improve. — B.A.

EVERYONE LOVES CULTURE I've been pretty impressed with the articles I've read and overall layout and product. Not that I'm any kind of expert on what it takes to put out such a publication, but I just know as a reader, it comes across very polished and well done. And as someone who does have some experience in Hanoi from when I lived here in 2004, it's one of the first things I’ve read here that really does a good job of not only capturing some of the local culture and experience, but communicating it in such a way that an English-speaking audience would find attractive — that is mostly what caught my attention, actually. — Karl T.

WHERE’S THE WORD? People are interested in reading The Word but they have trouble finding it. If you were to offer a delivery service you might alleviate the issue of people taking copies from cafes and restaurants. I happened to see that The Word stand in Joma on To Ngoc Van was empty. I'd bet if you contacted some of the embassies and communications directors at international schools to see if they could pass along a sign up, you'd get a lot of people interested for to the door subscription — H.B Your publication is very friendly, updated, with sharp articles so I don't know why I see it so rarely. Also, I wonder if you have the Word in Ho Chi Minh City or other cities in Vietnam? I wish you a happy and successful year in 2011! Best regards, Nghiem Thuy Ha, Product Manager — Threeland Travel

“A hipster is a blasé semi-intellectual below the age of 40.” Thanks for writing another condescending article on a topic that has been written to death over the last 10 years. As you say, “even you, yourself are most likely a hipster,” and given this vague list of traits that could apply to virtually anyone (liking culture and art, not spending a lot of money, sitting in a cafe, and adhering to current fashion trends), either everyone belongs to this detestable social movement, or the label “hipster” doesn’t really have any meaning.

DEAR MS H.B AND MS HA, Thanks for your kind words and wishes. We do distribute around the whole city to a wide variety of distribution outlets – anything from medical centres to international schools, embassies, businesses, travel agencies, cafes, bars and restaurants. In coffee shops and restaurants, people tend to take them, which is fine. However, we do need to keep some in the outlets around town for other people to read. Please see this month's house advert - here we have outlined our plan to do a to-the-door delivery service to individuals as well as businesses. We hope this means more will get left lying around the city. And yes, we have The Word Ho Chi Minh City, which is actually a much bigger publication, and two years older. We shall send you the next issue.

September 2012

6 | The Word February 2011

“somewhat” to be a cowardly attempt to soften a highly offensive term. Much like if I were to refer to you as being somewhat an ignoramus or you were to refer to a Vietnamese person as being somewhat a gook. Do you see? It does not matter what you surround such terms with. They simply should not be used in the first place.

(Confessions of an English Teacher, August 2012)

Confessions of an English Teacher From scheduling DVD lessons to coincide with hangover blues, to leaving 20 ungraded tests at the bar after last orders, here are confessions straight from the horse’s mouth. Words by Stephanie Cantrell. Photo by Charles Barnes Dave, 29 It’s not uncommon for people to fall asleep during a listening test when the CD is playing and the kids are all writing, but I somehow managed to fall asleep midway through a class feedback session while I was sitting at the front of the room. The teaching assistant had to come and wake me up. Is it bad that none of my students noticed?

Johnny, 23 I had a student who wouldn’t join in any of the physical activities such as changing chairs or racing games. I kept pushing her to stand up and participate with the rest of the class until the teaching assistant sidled up to me and told me the kid had a prosthetic leg.

Nadine, 27 I was trying to teach my class the word ‘contain.’ In true CELTA style, I broke the syllables down to make the pronunciation easier. It was only when I started drilling the individual sounds that I realised my mistake, as 18 ten-year-olds stood chanting, “C***! C***! C***!”

Sophie, 22 A lot of the kids are really small so you have to be careful where you put your feet. I made my youngest class gather around me for story time and accidentally kicked one in the head. If you laugh it off, they’re fine.

Emma, 22 My problem is pronouncing Vietnamese names. I walked into my teenage class one day and said, “Has anyone seen little Vu?” The intonation I used meant that I was actually saying ‘little boobs.’ The 15-year-old boys in the class loved it.

Andrew, 25 A junior kid kept [irritating me] in the lesson and wouldn’t listen to me or do as he was told. Just before break time a bigger kid pushed him over and he really hurt his leg. He looked at me from the floor to see what I would do but I just

28 | Word August 2012

pretended I hadn’t seen anything happen and let the drama unfold.

Gaz, 29 I have a lot of banter and jokes with the kids in my classes. One kid came in wearing a black badge one day and I drew attention to it and started teasing him about it. I sarcastically said, “Hey, nice badge.” He replied, “Yes, Teacher. It’s to remember my brother who just died.”

Jenny, 24 I’m sorry, but kids all look the same to me. I’m always calling them “You!” in class and have completely fabricated grades and comments when the reports come through and there’s a kid’s name you don’t know. Who doesn’t need to improve on their accuracy and pronunciation?

Rich, 24 I had a really young class and realised about an hour into the lesson that one of the kids had sh*t his pants. The assistant was out of the room and I couldn’t face dealing with it, so I ignored it and left him sitting in his own sh*t for the next half of the lesson. Towards the end of the class, I’d completely forgotten what’d happened and started playing a game of ‘change chairs.’ Realisation dawned on me as he waddled out of his seat and the unpleasant smell in the room intensified.

Katherine, 22 I’d had really bad food poisoning the night before class and couldn’t stop farting. To avoid embarrassment, I kept sidling up to the kid no one liked and farting next to him before moving away. The whole class was convinced it was him.

Anna, 25 One of my students finished her test early. So to stall time I told her to check it. She misunderstood me and fled the room, thinking she’d got every question wrong. I finally tracked her down in the ladies toilets, but when I tried to approach her, she turned the bum hose on me to keep me away.

August 2012 Word | 29

Well, this surely got the town talking! The stories are hilarious as heck. As a teacher myself, I’ve been known to behave in such a way before, but now I’m reformed. English teachers do get a bad rap here but I gotta say sometimes we deserve it. Also, it doesn’t mean all of us are like that, like in any profession, there are good and bad.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 65

The Word

LEISURE

October 2012 Fluff ‘n Puff I like what you’re trying to do at Word, but you publish too many puff articles. Is that really necessary? You should try being more independent.

I H2H: Measuring the Gains CYCLING FOR CHARITY

Cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City is more than a physical journey, but eventually the bodies of the 19 riders on this year’s H2H Charity Ride began to tell their stories, in ways both humorous and tragic. Words by Ed Weinberg. Photos by David Harris and Francis Xavier

t started as a joke, with a rider from last year’s H2H Charity Ride describing her thighs transitioning from crosscountry class to slappy, fat things. “I’d walk into a room and you’d just hear them making this thick sound,” Emma said / I paraphrased. “They blew up to twice their size with six hours of cycling a day, then just turned to pudding.” Inspired by easy metaphors, Word decided to do some before-and-after measures of this year’s riders, with a highly unscientific yet hilarious method. Afterwards we met up with trip leader — and leading thigh-girth burner, to the tune of 3cm — Andrea Towne, to talk about the 2,000km H2H covered between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and the emotional truths behind their legs of steel. And then the story got less silly, and we got into that too.

Who’s the Firmest? “I hate to say — Paul [Cordier],” Andrea says. “But Paul’s really in shape for all of this stuff. Danny Walsh had really good calves.

May 2013 (Lifestyles, April 2013) What a load of tosh. Except for the article on the bia hoi lady and the piece about BiBi — it’s good to see what he’s doing now — I thought that was a thoroughly unappealing and badly written cover story. Do you have any jobs available? I could come and help you out with your writing.

102 | Word June 2014 | wordvietnam.com

August 2015

July 2014 Hanoi to HCMC Bike Ride We are writing to you as six of the 16 riders who completed the cycle from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in April of this year. First we would like to thank you for your article in the June edition of

66 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Word Vietnam (page 102). However, we are disappointed with the portrayal of the ride and we feel we have been misrepresented. It didn’t show what we’d accomplished, and for what amazing cause.

(Now You Can Buy, July 2015) Good article. But there was one thing you missed. You can buy a property here, but you can’t sell a house if you have a mortgage on it. You have to own it outright. What a load of xxxx. You really think anyone in their right mind is going to buy a house here? You can’t even get a visa these days. 50 year leases don’t make sense. Buy a house in Europe and you’re looking at a minimum of 70 years. Anything below becomes a problem.

November 2015 The Front Cover, October 2015 I just LOVE the picture on the cover. It reminds me why I love this country: it’s all about emotions. So moving…

Great cover this month. I hope you’re going to give a copy of the magazine to that woman.

Wow! A really moving cover. Love it!

Best cover you’ve done this year.

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / VOL. 10 TÁC GIẢ: BAO ROSS và NICK ROSS

THẾ GIỚI PUBLISHERS

W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM

ON THE STREETS

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Our Top Articles January 2014

September 2009

Article with the most online hits on our website

Second most online hits on wordvietnam.com

Mr. McDonald’s

Relativists vs Colonialists

Is it the inexorable path of progress or is it a sign simply of changing times? Nick Ross speaks to Henry Nguyen, the man behind McDonald’s in Vietnam. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

f last year’s market entry of Starbucks can be viewed as a prototype, then by the time you read this piece there will have been extraordinary queues outside McDonald’s. Using the Drive-Thru model to enter the Vietnamese market, images of motorbike logjams trailing back down Saigon’s Dien Bien Phu come to mind. The arrival of this fast food monolith, this symbol of American culture, has been a long time in the making. For many, too long. Says Henry Nguyen, the man charged with bringing McDonald’s to Vietnam, “A lot of my friends here and a lot of young people I meet, ask me, ‘Why hasn’t McDonald’s come earlier, doesn’t McDonald’s think Vietnam is a promising market?’ There is a lot of economic self-esteem embedded in the presence of McDonald’s.” Full Article: http://wordvietnam.com/ food-drink/features/mr-mcdonald-s

68 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

By Tim Russell

n my experience there are three types of expat in Vietnam. Those who – let’s call them relativists – think the whole country is wonderful and the people lovable and honest, and that even the bad things can’t be criticised as it’s their culture and we have no right to find fault with it. On the other extreme, we have the colonialists – those who think the country is a festering rat’s nest of dirt, corruption and greed, run by people who haven’t got a clue what they’re doing, and who need a good dose of foreign management to sort them out. Then in the middle you have a third group, of which I like to think myself a member, that kind of flits between these two extremes. Obviously we like living here, or we wouldn’t stay, and there are days when Vietnam feels like the best place in the world; but we aren’t blind to its faults and we try our best to offer advice as to how these faults could be rectified. To read the full article click on http:// wordvietnam.com/opinion/the-perspectives/ relativists-vs-colonialists

Over the past 100 issues we’ve published good articles, bad articles and some pieces that are just, well, controversial. Here is a selection of writing from Word journos past and present. The full versions can be found online at wordvietnam.com

November 2013

October 2015

Most read food article on wordvietnam.com

One of the most commented upon pieces on Facebook

The Best Street Food of Vietnam: The North

ietnam has well over 100 street food dishes, most of them dreamt up locally, with a smattering coming from overseas. But which of these dishes are quintessentially Vietnamese? And which dishes are the true originals? To try and get at what we believe is the core of Vietnamese street food, we have put together a selection of dishes found in this country. There are variations of course — both on a dish itself and on the way it is served up in different regions — and then of course, there is pho, which in terms of style and taste has developed into a beast all of its own. That a restaurant chain in the UK even had the gall to try and trademark the name of Vietnam’s best known dish, says much for how Vietnam’s street food is being received around the globe. It’s popular. So, time to get that saliva running. To read the full piece, click on http://wordvietnam.com/food-drink/ features/a-street-food-tour-of-vietnam-the-north

25 Things Vietnamese Don’t Understand about Westerners

Cultural faux pas. Contrasting world views. Preconceived ideas. Here are all those things that people in Vietnam don’t understand about Westerners. Words by Kieran Crowe

recently reached out to my Vietnamese friends and colleagues to ask them what things Westerners do which they find amusing or odd! Any Westerners reading this, prepare your ego for a bruising. Vietnamese people, get ready for answers to all those questions you had about Western people but were too shy to ask. 1) Why won’t you tell me your age? Because when we do, you tell us “you look so old!” which drives us straight to the anti-aging moisturizer shelf in the nearest Maximark. 2) Why do you eat cheese and wine for dessert? What better way to satisfy your sweet tooth than indulging in some… pungent blue cheese? Alright, maybe this one is a bit weird. 3) Why are Western guys into tanned girls? Vietnamese girls have told me they are attracted to tanned guys, regardless of nationality, because they look healthier than pale guys (I guess that’s why Vietnamese girls aren’t exactly beating down my door). However, they don’t understand why Western guys are attracted to tanned girls. Click on http:// wordvietnam.com/peopleculture/the-stories/25things-vietnamese-dont-understand-aboutwesterners for the full article

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 69

December 2012

December 2014

Our most popular travel article online

This piece caused a storm on Facebook. A certain Facebook group admin was not impressed

A Journey to the Land of Whispers

Seeking a unique travel experience, after much deliberation Chrystian Cohen took the train into Pyongyang to visit North Korea

orth Korea feels frozen in time. It lies somewhere between a 1930s Soviet Union and a futuristic vision of society, as imagined back in the 1970s. When asked about my experience it’s hard to find a relevant reference point, as the Hermit Kingdom, which the country has come to be known as, is unlike any place I have ever been, seen or experienced. Visiting the northern section of the Korean peninsula has been more than a trip — it’s been a plunge into a whole other reality, which outsiders were never really meant to see. I was one of the select few. Read for the full piece by clicking on http://wordvietnam.com/travel/ international/a-journey-to-the-land-of-whispers

70 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

The World of Expat Facebook Groups

Whether its snakepits of despair you’re looking for or that small-town feeling you’ve been missing, the expat groups of Facebook supply that little touch of connection that we all occasionally need. Words by Niko Savvas. Illustrations by Vu ha Kim Vy

riticising other people’s use of Facebook is terribly passé, like saying you enjoy The Beatles or hate racism. For all of its faults (and there are many), this social media superpower has become an indispensable part of life for billions of people around the world. Personal opinions aside, it’s hard to argue that Facebook doesn’t serve many useful purposes. From the Arab Spring to the Hong Kong protests, it has given a voice to the voiceless and opened the world’s eyes to injustices that once might have gone unnoticed. For expats in Vietnam, Facebook forums can be an invaluable resource. Need an English-speaking ophthalmologist? Ask Facebook. Want to know if that oozing wound on your foot is infected? Skip the hospital; just share a picture and wait for the crowd-sourced diagnoses to pour in. In general my experience of Facebook has been positive. Yet I can’t shake my primordial loathing of these forums. If you’ve spent a decent amount of time in Vietnam, you probably have your own horror stories of boorish and moronic behavior online. Anecdotally it seems safe to say that expat Facebook forums are the refuge of the stupid and the mean-spirited. I decided to investigate. Full Article: http:// wordvietnam.com/peopleculture/the-stories/theworld-of-expat-facebookgroups

May 2015

Another Niko Savvas special that got the tongues wagging and the comments a-flowing

The piece online that got expats frothing at the fingertips

Vietnamese Food Isn’t That Great

Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother Learning Vietnamese

Lower your pitchforks and let Niko Savvas explain

ut on your Honesty Cape and place yourself in the following scenario: After you save the life of a Nigerian prince with the timely provision of your US$7,500 wire transfer, he invites you to his lavish palace in Abuja for a celebratory feast. The prince decrees that every notable dish from every global cuisine will be provided for your dining pleasure, as part of the world’s largest-ever buffet table. There is a catch, however, as there always is with Nigerian princes: you can only have one plate. So, with all of the world’s delicacies at your fingertips, how much plate-space would you devote to Vietnamese cuisine? Your correspondent’s answer: zero percent. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. com/people-culture/the-big-story/ vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great

Unless you’re a lifer, Niko Savvas believes there are much more useful things you could be doing

f you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers, then you already know that it takes roughly 10,000 hours to truly master a skill. As Gladwell himself probably says, there are exceptions to this rule — mathematical savants, child prodigies and so on. In light of Ericcson’s findings, consider the following numbers: 500 hours — 20.8 days — 0.06 years 10,000 hours — 416.6 days – 1.14 years 25,000 hours — 1,041.7 days — 2.85 years Let’s pretend that you could master Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning linguist, you). All you’d need to do is lock yourself in a dank, windowless room for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes, several college-ruled notebooks, and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar. After a fortnight and a half, you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng Viet, switching seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon accents. Learning Vietnamese would seem to be an excellent time investment. Now compare this hypothetical scenario to your real-life experience, in which the hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly while you beg to know the location of the restroom. Chances are good that you’re not a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. com/people-culture/the-big-story/ vietnamese-food-isn-t-that-great The final say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIONAL

Why You Probably Shouldn’t Bother Learning Vietnamese Unless you’re a lifer, Niko Savvas believes there are much more useful things you could be doing

192 | Word May 2015 | wordvietnam.com

earning Vietnamese is not worth your time. If you’ve read Malcolm Gladwell’s book Outliers (or if you’ve heard somebody refer to it during a cocktail party, which is more likely), then you already know that it takes roughly 10,000 hours to truly master a skill. As Gladwell himself probably says*, there are exceptions to this rule — mathematical savants, child prodigies and so on. But these people are rare. Most sixyear-olds are more likely to swallow a chess piece than use it as part of a brilliant Steinitz Defense. And the “10,000 hours” figure itself is suspiciously precise. Anders Ericcson, the psychologist whose work Outliers is based on, later found that it may take anywhere from 500 to 25,000 hours to earn your metaphorical Expert badge. In light of Ericcson’s findings, consider the following numbers: 500 hours — 20.8 days — 0.06 years 10,000 hours — 416.6 days – 1.14 years 25,000 hours — 1,041.7 days — 2.85 years Let’s pretend that you could master Vietnamese in a mere 500 hours (you cunning linguist, you). All you’d need to do is lock yourself in a dank, windowless room for three solid weeks with your Pimsleur tapes, several college-ruled notebooks, and a towering pile of Bolivian nose sugar. After a fortnight and a half, you’d emerge speaking fluent Tieng Viet, switching seamlessly between Hanoi and Saigon accents. Learning Vietnamese would seem to be an excellent time investment. Now compare this hypothetical scenario *Your correspondent hasn’t read the book, either.

to your real-life experience, in which the hotpot waitress glares at you dumbly while you beg to know the location of the restroom. Chances are good that you’re not a Vietnamese-pronunciation wunderkind.

A Language Limited in Range and Function You’re not alone. Vietnamese is a Category IV language with “significant linguistic and/or cultural differences from English”, according to the U.S. Foreign Service Institute (FSI). The FSI designates Vietnamese as one of the most difficult Category IV languages to learn, along with tongues such as Finnish, Estonian and Magyar. Learning Vietnamese is considerably more challenging than trying to dust off your high school Spanish. Which, if you think about it, would probably be a much better use of your time anyway — Vietnamese is more or less useless outside of Vietnam. The Vietnamese Consulate General in Houston estimated the total number of overseas Vietnamese at around four million in 2014. The densest concentration of people with Vietnamese ancestry outside of Vietnam is found in the United States, where they constitute 0.006 percent of the population. In an international context, speaking Vietnamese isn’t going to help you travel. It isn’t going to help you work, either — the number of jobs requiring proficiency in Vietnamese is roughly equivalent to the number of jobs that require applicants to have excellent fire-swallowing skills. Vietnamese is not a particularly rich

literary, cinematic or musical language either. Compared with Asian pop culture trendsetters like Japan and South Korea, Vietnamese artists produce little of note. There are no Vietnamese equals to Haruki Murakami or Bong Joon-Ho. The bestproduced TV programmes are knockoffs of western shows like MasterChef or Vietnam’s Got Talent. No one is breathlessly predicting the rise of V-Pop.

Opportunity Cost But if a person is going to live in Vietnam, shouldn’t he or she learn the language? Isn’t it a bit rude and presumptuous to assume that you can move to a foreign country and expect the local people to speak your language? The quick answer: no. A more elaborate explanation: no, because that’s the entire point of having an international language. In the days of the Umayyad Caliphate, a traveller could wander from modern-day Portugal down to North Africa, then roam all the way to India, so long as he had a decent grasp of Arabic. Even in the 700s, people recognised the value of a bridge language. Lingua francas exist because they are efficient — by mastering one language, you can suddenly communicate with people from many places. Native English speakers have it easy. They’re inherently adept at the world’s most versatile language. Non-native speakers have to give up a lot to achieve this proficiency: time, energy and money. But the tangible benefits of learning English (higher wages, easier travel, and

broader access to global culture) justify this sacrifice of resources. Unless you’re planning to spend a very long time in Vietnam, the opportunity cost of studying Vietnamese is much less favourable. You’re giving up too many of your available non-working/sleeping/ eating hours for a skill that loses nearly all its value the moment you leave the country. To illustrate, assume that Gladwell is bad at maths and that you can become fluent in Vietnamese with 1,000 hours of practice. If you studied seven days a week for three hours a day, it would take you about 333 days to hit your target. This isn’t “three hours of half-hearted listening to podcasts or watching subtitled movies”. This is “three hours of gulag work camp, 100 percent vein-popping mental selftorture with expensive tutors and learning materials”. After nearly a year of doing this every day, you’d be able to bargain more effectively for mangos. More realistically, though, it would take you several years to reach this point. Or you could spend a couple of hours learning Vietnamese numbers and interesting things to yell at taxi drivers, then devote yourself to becoming a better painter or tuba player or dessert chef — to doing something that might enrich the world, rather than assuage your societally conditioned guilt. Then you could take a moment to consider where you’d like to watch the next World Cup. If your answer isn’t “the same technoblaring coffee shop I’m in now”, then you don’t need much Vietnamese.

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November 2015

January 2016

One of our recent online pieces that went viral

The one that drew out all those Americans without a sense of humo(u)r

Visa Privilege

If you’re Vietnamese, getting a visa to travel to the West is hard. Getting a visa to the US is even harder. Owen Salisbury helped a friend who went through the visa application experience and was turned down

10 Questions Americans Ask About Vietnam

was 30 the first time I had to apply for a visa. The concept seemed vaguely offensive; why on Earth did I need to ask anyone’s permission to travel? I’d been to 25 countries on three continents, spending money, following laws. Everywhere, visas meant showing up like an unexpected guest, enduring border control’s bored scrutiny, and hearing the stamp thwack in my passport. I was privileged. Extremely so; nor was I to realise how much until I helped my friend Tram apply for a tourist visa to the United States so she could meet her fiancé’s family. Not to move there; just to visit for a month. Tram has been a friend for four years. With her fiancé temporarily in the US, she asked me to help prepare her tourist (B-1) visa application. The challenges Vietnamese people face when they wish to visit the socalled First World stunned me. Full article: http://wordvietnam.com/opinion/ the-final-say/visa-privilege

Jesse Meadows has gone home to the US for a vacation. Here are what friends, family and acquaintances are asking about her adopted home s I write this, I am home for the holidays in Florida, America’s land of golf courses and retirees. It’s the first time I’ve been home to see my family and friends since I left over a year ago, and they understandably have questions. “My little world traveller!” they say, patting me on the head. “What are you doing in Thailand?!” Some questions are smarter than others. I do my best to contain my eye-rolling and attempt to patiently explain the realities of my life in Hanoi, a place that is hard for most Americans to imagine. And so, after a month of answering the same clueless queries, I’ve compiled my favourites. Do you have electricity? You know, sometimes I get the feeling my friends back home picture me living in a bamboo hut in the middle of a rice field, riding a buffalo to work and, I don’t know, killing a chicken with my bare hands for dinner. Is it safe? My uncle asked me this, right before delving into a rant about ISIS. It’s ironic, coming from a country like America, where school shootings have become the norm, and my dad shows off his gun collection at the dining room table. Do you tell people you’re Canadian? Specific to the fact that I’m American, this idea is rooted in memories of a past that Vietnam has collectively moved on from. Full article: http:// wordvietnam.com/opinion/theperspectives/10-questionsamericans-ask-about-vietnam

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January 2016

October 2014

A piece that got a comment from a famous film director

Our most-read café review on wordvietnam.com

Film in Vietnam

By Ed Weinberg

Toilet Kingdom

Beautiful scenery, technical expertise, a low-cost economy. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam.

own a Binh Thanh back alley, the writing was on the wall. And so the scripture read: “Thy kingdom come.” No wait, it read ‘Kingdom’ — but was preceded by ‘Toilet’? Yup, urine for some potty humour. That’s par for the course at Toilet Kingdom, where the one room in the coffee shop you usually don’t want to see has taken centre stage. You sit on toilets with Angry Bird cushions, drink out of little potties and bathtubs on glass tables over sinks with glitter and fake trees inside. Little streamers with happy buzzing flies adorn the walls and ceilings. Bathroom mirrors with stray toothbrushes and bottles of shampoo are scattered throughout. Full Article: http://wordvietnam. com/food-drink/coffee-cup/ coffee-cup-hcmc-toilet-kingdom

here’s no denying that Vietnam looks stunning on film. Any cinematographer or photographer worth their salt loves coming back to this country. Sweeping aerial shots of Halong Bay, drone footage of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. These are just a few of the images that immediately come to mind, and that’s without mentioning the people. Traditionally though, filming in Vietnam has been difficult. While the country itself has been the subject of many a film, the most famous of them have all been shot elsewhere. It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines, Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986); also the Philippines. One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American, which most booksellers will have a copy of. Full Article: http://wordvietnam.com/ people-culture/the-big-story/film-in-vietnam

Film in Vietnam

Beautiful scenery, technical expertise, a low-cost economy. Jon Aspin attempts to ask why big budget productions are the exception rather than the rule in Vietnam.

here’s no denying that Vietnam looks stunning on film. Any cinematographer or photographer worth their salt loves coming back to this country. Sweeping aerial shots of Halong Bay, drone footage of the Sapa Valley and even time-lapse photography of Saigon’s traffic. These are just a few of the images that immediately come to mind, and that’s without mentioning the people. When I was lucky enough to be part of a big Australian beer ad that shot last year in Hanoi and Sapa (see ‘I shot a big beer ad’, April 2015), I joined up with a professional crew who’d literally travelled the world in search of the perfect visual landscape for their story. This had included the snowy hinterlands of central Europe, the deserts of Dubai, the city of Prague and cage diving with Great White sharks in South Africa. Sean Izzard, a twenty-five year veteran and part of the highly respected creative group The Pool Collective in Sydney, was the stills photographer on the 21-day shoot. “Vietnam was the highlight for me,” he said. “Especially travelling up north into the mountains of Sapa. It was quite amazing.” “Even in the downtime there were shots to be had. This amazing cloud would just come through the village at night-time, it was so ethereal and surreal, quite spectacular.”

Blockbuster

Traditionally though, filming in Vietnam has been difficult. While the country itself has been the subject of

A scene from The Quiet American directed by Phillip Noyce

many a film, the most famous of them have all been shot elsewhere. It was ‘too soon’ perhaps for the likes of Apocalypse Now (1979) which was made in the Philippines, Full Metal Jacket (1987) and Platoon (1986); also the Philippines. One notable exception is the Phillip Noyce directed adaptation of Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American, which most booksellers will have a copy of. The director himself said this about shooting in Saigon, during a 2011 interview. “We thought there would be big challenges, but they disappeared. The Vietnamese government were very helpful in helping us to find locations, and getting people to co-operate with the production.” Noyce expressed his surprise in terms of the level of technical expertise available to him, even back then (the film was released in 2002), and heaped praise on his second unit director Dang Nhat Minh especially, crediting him with the look of the climactic scenes of the movie, when the bomb goes off outside the old Continental Hotel. “We didn’t realize how efficient Vietnamese filmmakers were, in every aspect of film making,” he said.

Tick in the Ointment

So, let’s see. Beautiful scenery. Tick. Technical expertise. Tick. A low-cost economy. Hmm, still a tick. Surely Vietnam should be a veritable goldmine for big budget television and film production, with so many elements working in its favour. Right? Well, apparently not, and it’s the usual suspects

Jeremy Clarkson rides through the streets of Vietnam in the Top Gear: Vietnam Special

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Did You Know? In preparing for our 100th issue spectacular, staff writer Owen Salisbury assembled a list of Word-related trivia that will leave you puzzled as to how he ever managed to function in polite society Did you know… — Word was founded in April, 1988? It was originally chief editor Nick Ross’ neo-modernist Basque poetry fanzine! — Word routinely hides at least one joke image and one fake story per issue? There’s even a VND150,000 prize to the first astute reader who finds all 228 examples. Bonus to the reader who finds the issue we never actually printed! — Word editorial budgets have gone up by at least 8% a year for the last eight years? We salute their professionalism and rigour! — Word is on the VIP guest list at Apocalypse Now? Because, why not? — The most common cause of wounding and maiming for Word employees is duelling? … but that the most common cause of death for Word employees is classified — Word used to employ a number of writers who went on to fame and fortune? We count such literary lights as Marcel Proust, Choderlos de Laclos, Salman Rushdie and that tool who wrote The Notebook among our alumni! — In his 14-year career with the Word, staff editor Jon Aspin has never been late with a story? Talk about dedication! — Word graphic designers actually create all pictures pixel by pixel in PhotoShop? We haven’t printed a genuine photograph since 2006!

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— Word has never knowingly employed a member of the Illuminati? — Word was founded in April of 1871 by French explorer Pierre-Christian BoisBlois de Montchien, renowned for bringing both polo and polio to the highlands of Laos? It was originally a journal for recording the hallucinations caused by his tertiary syphilis. — Word loves monkeys? Our office monkey Milo routinely contributes articles under a nom de plume! — Word was founded by time travellers in both space and the future? — While compiling this list, Word staff writer Owen Salisbury almost died of anaphylactic shock, yet almost finished the article nearly on time? Talk about dedication! — Word was a popular write-in candidate in the recent Presidential elections in the Gambia? We garnered an amazing 781 votes, or 3.3% of the total! — Word can steal your soul? Whatever you do, don’t hold it up to a mirror and chant “Blood Mary” three times while turning widdershins. We had enough trouble with the zombies last time! — Word invented Scrabble and jamon Iberico — on the same day? — Creative director, photographer and head pontiff Mads Monsen won the

ArtPrize twice in the last four years for his work on the Word — without officially entering? Talk about dedication! — Word can be used to tell the future? Using a combination of Qabalah and von Hausaufgabe’s Geometric Sieve, future events are clearly spelled out in our pages. Last year, we found detailed predictions for 9/11, 7/7, and of course for 6/6! Actually, we’re fairly scared about that last one. We plan to be out of the continent when it happens! You should, too! Run, people! Run! — Word was founded as part of a sealed plea agreement in April of 1999? We’d love to tell you more but the judge would throw us back in prison and we can’t go back there, man! We just can’t! — Word has contingency stories written to cover plague, alien invasion, and the Canadian conquest of the USA? — That one of these is the whole and unvarnished truth? We dare you to find it! Not counting this one, of course, because that would be a dishonest and petty trick.

This article is dedicated to the memory of official Word historian and photo editor Kyle “Krushpuss” Phanroy who left the country earlier this year after a yodelling accident in the Tyrolean Alps. You’ll be missed, you old so-and-so

Seven Creative Uses of Word Yes, we’re more than just classroom fodder for teaching English and something for wiping your nose on. We promise! Here’s a little something to get them juices flowing

reativity is a watchword here at the Word, and we think you salary-drones should be more creative, too. Arm yourself with these tips and find new, exciting uses for all those back issues of Word we know you’re hoarding. But be warned — this is the advanced list. You won’t find simple collaging, origami or ransom notes here. Still here? Newbies scared off? Great! Let’s get started.

Sticks and Stones Given its density and resilience, thick enough layers of paper can stop fists, knives and clubs. So the next time your gang is going to rumble with the Jets in the old pork crackling plant, armour up with the Word. Slip two to three issues under your shirt at strategic locations, and voila — instant death proof!* Pro tip: with enough duct tape, Word can also be creatively applied to guard your face. Be sure to apply at least three issues to the top, back and sides, then roll ones up to frame the face and protect the nose. Tape liberally in place. Leave room for eye slits and a breathing hole. Bye-bye bike helmets! And if you should meet an excitingly gruesome death, at least you’ll go out looking good. *Unless they have guns, of course, in which case your friends at least won’t have to mop up as much blood — made from 100% recycled paper and crushed literary hopes, Word is actually very hygroscopic. Which leads us to…

Out, Damned Spot! Got tough stains to get out from where your friend Velvet Elvis puked up those durian daiquiris? Back issues of Word make a fantastic surface cleaner. Our unique cesium-based inks will gently irradiate the stains away as our 100% recycled

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3,4-dextrohydroctylpentahexafluronontium polymer paper shaves off each offending molecule out with its famous atomically sharp edges! Pro tip: Caesium is carcinogenic — but don’t worry, the polymer will have stripped your skin and muscle away long before any tumours can form, unless the ionizing radiation gets you first. Use in a wellventilated area, preferably in a different house.

Iron Rations Starving? Trapped on a tropical island with nothing but back issues of Word? Not to worry! Individually woven from strands of baby vole skin, our 100% organic vellum is actually edible — and tastes great when gently grilled and served with grubs and presumably edible jungle flowers! Pro tip: given our printer’s patented lithium-based Lithion Metallic Ink, you won’t even mind you’re trapped on a deserted island — hell, you might not even notice after a while.

Brighten Up That Room A Little Nothing brightens up a room like gorgeous photos on slick magazine paper. If your room is drab, try papering the walls with issues of Word. It’ll be like having all of us here at Word… in there with you… staring down at you, all night long!

Metal Detectors Don’t Detect Paper Got an enemy inside who just needs to be taken care of? Did El Ratel over in Block B disrespect your colours? Never fear, Word is here — and soon to be there, wedged in El Ratel’s spine. As any prison guards will tell you, Word is the number one choice of convicts, killers, roisterers, nogoodniks and yard-shankers around the world.

Special Thanks Many, many people have made these past 100 issues happen. Here are some of them:

Not sure how to proceed? It’s easy! First, get convicted of a horrible, horrible crime and sent up for life. Smuggle in your back issues of Word. Second, roll your copy of Word as tightly as possible into a cylinder, securing it with contraband duct tape or dozens of rubber bands. Patiently grind it against the concrete floor until you’ve achieved a wickedly sharp point. Voila — instant death machine! All you have to do next is shank until the guards club you off, but watch out: El Ratel is probably packing a copy of Word, too. Pro tip: Not enough time to grind? No fear. Word can also be used to beat, smash and suffocate.

You Shouldn’t Have For our readers who like to pinch pennies, show love and frugality by slipping old copies of Word to beggars, into wedding envelopes, into Christmas stockings, or as a substitute for lucky money at Tet! Remember, you’re not only giving the gift of literacy in 200 pages of slick layout, colourful photos and page after page of ads, you’re also saving the planet by recycling those old copies!

Pro tip: Don’t hesitate to personalize. Try replacing all the names in articles with the name of the gift recipient, so they know it’s all about them. You can also glue your face onto every photo, so you stare back out at them from every page, ensuring they know exactly who got them this amazing gift!

Pay It Backwards or Forwards or Something If you enjoy our stimulating, nutritious content month in and month out, but feel vaguely guilty because you’re getting so much joy and possibility free, then this is the one for you. Slip a VND500,000 note between each page, seal it in an envelope, and drop it off at Word offices to let us know just how much you’ve loved all 100 issues of our Pulitzer and Nobel-prize winning magazine. Don’t hesitate to send love notes to your favourite Word personalities, too — we may love money, but we also love being loved. Disclaimer: the Word Magazine, LLC, endorses none of these ideas and thinks they are terrible and probably harmful. Except the last one, which is very cool

Brian Webb, Bailey Seybolt, Aaron Joel Santos, Julia Plevin, Ian Paynton, David Stout, Debbie Clare, Douglas Pyper, Rose Arnold, Fabiola Buchele, Kaitlin Rees, Hoa Le, Julie Vola, Jesse Meadows, Francis Roux, Marc Forster-Pert, Dominic Blewett, Chau Giang, Elisabeth Rosen, David Harris, David Mann, Suzie Meiklejohn, Peter Stuckings, Thin Lei Win, Christine Van, John Thornton, Vu Ha Kim Vy, Paolo Maling, Jim Abril, Duncan Forgan, Sarah Johnson, Nguyen Tan Loc, Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Huynh Hau, Vu Minh Tri, Tran Huynh The Vu, Le Dang Phuong Trang, Rico Gonzalez, Linh Phanroy, Kyle Phanroy, Duong Thi Thanh Xuan, Ed Weinberg, Charlie Barnes, Khoa Tran, Galen Stolee, Brian Letwin, Nguyen Thuc Doan Hien, James Allen, EJ Chung, Stephanie Cantrell, Mark Allan, Francis Xavier, Alexandre Garel, Mads Monsen, Derek Milroy, Tal Cohen, Yves Schiepek, Karen Hewell, Niko Savvas, Owen Salisbury, Jon Aspin, Duong Vy Bao and Nick Ross

Insider

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INSIDER

HANOI

Arsenic and Old Lace Hanoi has a problem with arsenic. Now it’s entered the water system. Words and photos by Nick Ross

ron shows me an email. It doesn’t make for good reading. “My girlfriend and I have been living in Hanoi for six years,” goes the writer. “We are suffering from most of the symptoms of arsenic poisoning, so I’m concerned it’s related to the water here. We have been out of the country for the last month and the symptoms have gone away.” The Vietnam distributor of the Germanmade water filter brand, BWT, over the past year Aron has discovered that his experience is not unique. Recently he was called into a villa compound in the Long Bien area of Hanoi to test the water. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends a limit of 0.01 mg/litre (10 parts per billion) of arsenic in drinking water. The results from Aron’s test showed that during two different periods in February, the level of arsenic was between 41 and 43 percent above the safe limit. Which suggests that this metalloid has got into the city’s water system. The Red River Delta in northern Vietnam as well as places as far flung as Chile, Bangladesh, Mongolia, Taiwan and even the western US are known to contain large deposits of arsenic. Buried deep inside the earth’s crust, the various forms of this metalloid are normally harmless, unless they manage to get into the water. Here it seemed that this was exactly what had happened. Yet was this an anomaly, a one off?

Or is the whole of the city affected by contamination? We decided to find out for ourselves. With a home testing kit in hand, Aron and I spent a day testing the water in Hanoi.

Poisoned? In mid-January I came down with what I thought was food poisoning. Yet the sudden bout of nausea, diarrhoea and acute headaches didn’t make sense. The night before I’d eaten banh mi trung at a place in the Old Quarter I’d frequented for over a decade. The next morning I ate bun bo nam bo at a West Lake eatery, also a regular haunt. Neither place had ever given me food poisoning. Yet two days in and I was getting worse. I was dehydrated, constantly tired and had odd bouts of dizziness. So I went to the hospital, had a blood test and spent two hours on a drip. When the results came back I neither had a virus nor a bacterial infection. The doctors suggested that maybe I didn’t have food poisoning after all. As I started researching this article, I found another possible source for my mysterious illness; arsenic. It was uncanny. The symptoms of arsenic poisoning start with headaches, confusion, severe diarrhoea and drowsiness, while acute levels of the metalloid can lead to diarrhoea, vomiting, vomiting blood, blood in the urine, cramping muscles, hair loss, stomach pain

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and convulsions. The final result is coma and death. I was fortunate. After a week I was back to normal, but it did make me ask a question. Historically Hanoi has had a water shortage. To make up for the lack of water, large numbers of houses have wells. It is these wells, dug deep down into the earth and into the layer where there is a concentration of arsenic, that bring the metalloid up to the surface. Could I have eaten something made with contaminated well water? Or as Aron had speculated over several phone conversations, could the whole of the city’s water system be at fault? This is exactly what has happened in Bangladesh over the past 35 years. Millions of tube wells were drilled in the 1970s to provide villagers with clean water, but many of them were dug into shallow layers of ground that had naturally occurring arsenic, contaminating the water. A recent study led by Dr. Habibul Ahsan of the University of Chicago found that as many as 77 million

people — half the population — may have been exposed to toxic levels of arsenic. The study followed nearly 12,000 Bangladeshis for over a decade and discovered that more than 20 percent of deaths were caused by arsenic.

The Tests We started our journey with two samples from the Tay Ho area of West Lake. One came from a restaurant that uses pre-filtered water. The other from West Lake itself. After putting in three doses of different chemicals to the testing bottle, shaking and waiting 20 minutes, the litmus paper with the restaurant water turned a very light yellow. The water was contaminated with arsenic, but it was just on the limit. This was commensurate with some recent tests Aron had conducted of the water at the Syrena Centre on Xuan Dieu — 0.088 mg/l and 0.094 mg/l, both just under the WHO limit. The water from West Lake, however, was surprisingly untainted — the test showed

Testing Kits Two companies produce arsenic testing kits that are available in Hanoi. The cost for 100 tests is approximately VND3 million.

H ACH V IETNAM R.O

Room 16, Floor 6A, V-Reex Centre, Kinh Do Building, 292 Tay Son, Dong Da, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3533 3355 ext. 6162 / (08) 2220 5371 hachvietnam.blogspot.com sea.hach.com

M ERCK

10th floor, Capital Tower, 109 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974 8860 merck.vn/en/index.html

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the arsenic levels at 0.005 mg/l. “Maybe it’s time to drink water from West Lake,” Aron joked. Considering that raw sewage gets pumped into the lake, the thought was horrific. Could West Lake water turn out to be safer than tap water? Experiment number two was also conducted in the West Lake area, but this time with melted ice. One batch came from a restaurant that buys the ice in, the other from a place that makes it on-site. Both came back with low levels of arsenic — around the 0.003 mg/l to 0.005 mg/l. What was interesting was the ice that was ‘bought in’. With water supply a problem in Hanoi, our guess is that the ice was made outside the main city, thus meaning it used water not contaminated with the poison. Likewise, the ice made in house suggested that arsenic contamination varies from place to place, location to location. We then headed to the Old Quarter and did our next test at an establishment that we know uses a well. The results were disturbing. Here contamination was high — somewhere between 0.025 mg/l and 0.05 mg/l. In other words, from two and a half times, to five times the acceptable limit. Whether the water we sampled came from the well or the water system, we couldn’t tell. But it would be fair to conclude that with so many wells in this area, if this restaurant is affected, then so will elsewhere.

What Does this Mean? If my personal bout of sickness was indeed arsenic poisoning, then this is a worry. The problem is that because arsenic particles are so microscopic, they are among the hardest substances to filter out of the water system.

Boiling makes no difference. Neither do standard water filtration systems. If you do want to filter the substance out, then there are two expensive options. The first solution is reverse osmosis. The system works by forcing water through a special, selective membrane. The membrane has microscopic pores that are specially sized to allow water molecules through, while trapping larger inorganic molecules like lead, iron, chromium and arsenic. Studies have shown that reverse osmosis can be up to 95 percent effective in the removal of arsenic. The other option is an anionic exchange system. Using a physical or chemical process to exchange ions between a resin bed and water passing through, these systems soften water, remove iron and manganese, and lower nitrate and arsenic levels. Anionic exchange systems are usually point-of-entry systems, meaning that they treat all water coming into the home. However, they are very costly. As many people can’t afford this, what other solutions are there? “I believe arsenic can’t be absorbed through the skin,” says Aron, a fact backed up by the WHO, which states that any skin absorption is minimal. “This means that showering, washing your hands and so on is absolutely fine. However, you should brush your teeth with mineral water.” Other things he suggests are avoiding bia hoi — or at least, bia hoi produced in Central Hanoi — and being careful about where you get your ice from. Coffee is another thing to avoid. It’s impossible to know whether the water is contaminated or not. As for pho and other noodle soups; same problem.

Ultimately if we live in Hanoi, we have to survive, lead normal lives. To avoid everything or anything that could potentially be contaminated with arsenic would be the equivalent of not living at all. We couldn’t go to restaurants or eat street food, as we wouldn’t know what water has been used for cooking and for washing the fruit and vegetables. Forget coffee or perhaps even non-imported beer. And as for water usage at home, we would find ourselves using La Vie or an equivalent for everything. Not only is it impractical, it’s impossible. However, if you do feel you’ve contracted arsenic poisoning or if you’re worried about it, then perhaps it’s time to make some adjustments. Maybe move apartment or house — the water supply could be contaminated — or perhaps, as in my case, stop eating at two particular eateries. Or even better, test the water where you live to find out for yourself.

Filters To find out more about what water filters are available, then information on Aron’s products, BWT, can be found at water-filter-vietnam.com. His Hanoi showroom is on the ground floor of the Syrena Center Shopping Mall, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0943 337633 or 0911 459033

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Insider

INSIDER

PHOTO ESSAY

Night and Day at the Flower Market Jesse Meadows has found a new place to hang out in Hanoi â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the oasis that is the flower market on Au Co

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“I

don’t care what country you go to, and how long you live, this is one of those special places,” said my friend Chris, dipping a piece of pho ran into his soy sauce and stuffing his face. The delicious deep-fried pho in the shape of a pizza had become a late-night delicacy for us, and we could only find it here. Other delicacies abound; one table over, I spied another friend, Andrew, gnawing on boiled chicken feet, kicking back shots of ruou with Nga and her husband, our favourite food stand vendors. They work here for 12 hours every night, cooking in shifts and taking naps on a small cot next to their stove. Nga, 25, studied cooking in school, and moved to Hanoi from central Vietnam to take advantage of the city’s business. She likes serving the drunk Westerners, she says, because they’re fun, and they like to sing instead of fight. (It’s true, I’ve found myself caught up in a few sloppy sing-a-longs around her tables in the past.) Between drinks with Andrew, Nga would write Vietnamese words on her hand and

teach him how to pronounce them. Then, she produced a notebook, where Andrew would write English words for her in return. They did this every week, a sort of midnight language exchange. We’d developed a sense of loyalty to Nga and her pho ran. When all the bars closed, we knew there was always the flower market, shining like a fluorescent oasis in the small hours.

A Brisk Trade It was months before I even set foot on the flower side of the market. For expats, the place is synonymous with midnight munchies and Bia Hanoi nightcaps. But if you step past the row of food stands that line the dike road, you will find something rare for a street market — peace and fragrance. At night, it’s meant for wholesalers, so no one is likely hassle you for purchases. You can wander in and out of the blossoms, surrounded on all sides by red, yellow, purple and green. There are roses from Vinh Tuy and chrysanthemums from Tay Tuu; flower villages on the outskirts of Hanoi that have since been absorbed into the city due

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to Hanoi’s rapid urbanisation. Tay Ho was also known for its flower-growing in the past, and the market here began as a makeshift meeting point for growers from neighbouring districts to sell their products. When light begins to creep over the horizon, the flower ladies will take the stock they’ve bought before dawn and fan out into the city to sell throughout the day. Sometimes housewives will come in the early morning to buy bouquets, but usually the market packs up before the sun gets too high. Before holidays like Tet, though, the women must work overtime. They stay open until noon to meet demand, as fresh flowers are necessary to adorn altars and brighten the home for visiting family. It can be a stressful time for vendors, though. Mai, a 60-year-old woman who has been working here for the last 20 years, seemed especially concerned. The abnormally cold temperatures this winter have threatened her flower supply and driven prices up. She worries that she won’t sell enough, so she keeps her stand open as much as her health allows. Her fears echo in other vendors’ cries: “Buy from me! Buy from me!” It’s a hectic scene, and the stark morning

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light on a sidewalk I’ve only known in the dark feels uncanny. They’re all selling the same peach blossom trees, lined up along the dike road where Nga would set up shop later that night. But today, there was no sign of her, not even one plastic chair or banh my sign in her usual spot. It’s a place that holds so much meaning for me, where I see memories of times I felt truly happy, with friends like Chris, who have since moved away. This was the last place I saw him. But for these women, it’s business as usual, no sentimentality in sight. I returned to Chi for more pho ran a couple months after I saw her and Andrew eating chicken feet. This time, when I ordered food in my broken Vietnamese, she smiled and answered in English. I immediately remembered their casual language lessons; Andrew has since moved away, too, but he’s left an imprint behind. Like its beginnings as a meeting point for flower peddlers, the market has become an intersection for cultural exchange, too. We may be driven by different motivations, like early morning hunger or a late night’s work. But whatever draws us here, the flower market is a site where we can trade more than just money. And that’s the mark of a special place.

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Insider INSIDER

HCMC

24 Hour Cafes

A The March 51 Tran Quang Dieu, Q3 Drinks: 3.5 stars Decor: Simple Ambience: Good and relaxed Reasons to go: To hang out and play video games

Natalia Martínez went on a hunt for cafés that open the entire night and offer a place to hang out until sunrise. Photos by Francis Xavier

t the stroke of midnight the mission started. We were about to become nocturnal souls in search of cafés that open all night long, gathering all kinds of people and stories. It turns out that Ho Chi Minh City — another of those big metropolises that never sleeps — offers a wide list of cafés that remain open 24 hours to cover every customer’s need. There are many kinds of customers that frequent these spots late at night. From the classic group of friends that gathers

around midnight with their computers to play online games — using smartphones, tablets and computers at the same time without taking an eye off their screens — to the ones that seek a quiet place as a retreat to get some work done. You can also find other types of clients that would rather hang out with some blended juices instead of clubbing. Most of these cafés are gathered around District 1 and District 3. Ahead of us there were a few hours and drinks to experience the other side of the night.

the entrance, sits an ancient video console so you can play arcade games until the sun rises. The first drinks of our night were a very average ca phe sua da (VND24,000) and a peach ice tea (VND34,000) which met our expectations. Meanwhile, we got involved with some serious arcade action and over numerous battles — playing Street Fighter — delayed our next stop.

he far side of the canal from District 3, Phu Nhuan, was set as the beginning of the tour. The March is an average, classic Vietnamese café that is modestly decorated with some tiny tables and chairs. Here crowds of men in their 20s meet to play computer games and get a buzz from tra da and cigarettes. No panic, in case you didn’t bring your A-game or any company with you, at

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CI5 Café 243 Le Van Sy, Q3 Drinks: 5 stars Decor: A nice mix resulting from retro and hipster tools Ambience: A very homey place Reasons to go: To work or chill

quiet and adorable place, perfect if you are looking for somewhere to spend the night finishing stuff that you have left undone. There is plenty of room — stuffed with retro-hip

decorations — where you can get comfortable; the upstairs floor has a terrace from where you can look out at the night. CI5 Café has a coffee machine which makes an excellent latte for VND32,000.

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G Café 65 Ho Xuan Huong, Q3 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: Rustic Ambience: Ok Reasons to go: To hang out

Café follows the same style as the March. They have a few spots around the city, although the one we chose at 65 Ho Xuan Huong was not very inviting. This outside café is almost entirely made of wood and occupies the path with its miniature sets of stools and tables. In G Café you will probably share the space with teenagers playing with their computers and watching YouTube videos. If you are not into these two pastimes, you still have the opportunity for some people watching if it's not too late in the evening. The drinks here won’t kill you — the mosquitoes may — though they might disappoint you as the vanilla blend (VND39,000) did me.

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Step Up 32 Pham Hong Thai, Q1 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: Simple Ambience: Busy and good Reasons to go: To meet your buddies at late hours

his is just another option for people to hang out when night falls. Its big terrace is an attraction, as is its rooftop, but sadly the selection and quality of the drinks is quite poor. My choice here was a wild berry soda for VND40,000, which I drank while one of the waitresses was having a cheeky nap on one of the tables, making me feel very jealous since it was already 3am.

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Heritage Café 10 Pasteur, Q1 Drinks: 5 stars Decor: Vintage, with an excellent taste Ambience: Cosy Reasons to go: To indulge in style and play with English bulldogs

asteur Street hosts a few known cafés like The Factory Cafe and Thuc where night owls hang out sitting on the tiny toddler chairs spread out on the path. But to be fair, nothing beats the Heritage Café. This remarkable spot is located at the beginning of this busy road. Behind a half-hipster, halfvintage-looking facade, it hides a museum of beautiful gems hanging from its wall; from vinyls, to old school bicycles, with room for

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some shelves packed with vintage suitcases and big beautiful portraits of work by the French photographer Réhahn. One of its signature drinks is the egg coffee, Hanoi-style (VND55,000), so that was the chosen one for this stop. It had a thick layer of the fluffy mix of egg yolk and sweetened milk, which covered an intense Robusta coffee with a powerful smoky aroma.

Mr. 8 2 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Drinks: 3 stars Decor: simple Ambience: Solitary, if not depressing Reasons to go: To find some peace of mind

he corner location is excellent, but the quality location is quickly undermined by the disappointment of the café experience itself. After entering the café we realized how tiny it was, and one of the tables on the ground floor was occupied by a girl dressed in school uniform, who had fallen into a deep sleep. We ordered a lychee ice tea (VND55,000) and headed upstairs followed by a strange smell that I never managed to pinpoint. And as it was meant to be, we sat by the big window, drank the tea and watched the night.

Unclosed Café 85 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Drinks: 4 stars Decor: Simple yet nice Ambience: Relaxed Reasons to go: To work or chill

nd the tour came to its end, the last stop being Unclosed Café, where we shared the room with a group of Vietnamese girls that were sleeping on the couches, killing time and waiting for their bus back to the Mekong Delta. To call it a night, I ordered a strawberry yoghurt (VND49,000), something smooth before going to bed and getting some sleep. Once we heard the roosters starting to crow we knew it was time to go home.

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HANOI

Panam’

Fancy a crepe anyone? Our mystery diner certainly did when they headed to Truong Han Sieu for a taste of Brittany’s best-known dish. Photos by Julie Vola

overing all bases, Panam’ describes itself on the one hand as a “creperie & salon de thé”, and also as a French restaurant, lounge and café. Opening its doors earlier this year, the restaurant has a clean black and white facade and an understated sign. Once inside, the décor is a mish-mash of styles, with clear plastic and other modern chairs mixed with colourful sofas and wooden antiques. In the front room guests are greeted with a hanging thread curtain, like a beaded curtain but without any beads, which seems odd. Behind a courtyard with high tables is a bar with dark wood in neat patterns on the ceiling, and pillows with natural images, like leaves or pineapples, on them. The menu is pretty, printed in a variety of fonts on brown paper, and the tables are plain wood, each one with a sprig of dainty flowers. I arrived with a friend and we quickly chose a spot in the back near the bar, which seemed more welcoming than the eclectic front rooms, and settled in with high expectations.

Full of Crepe The menu features mostly crêpes, although it also has salads, croque monsieur and paninis

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on offer. Savoury crêpes (also called galettes) come from the Brittany region of France, and are made with buckwheat flour, which makes them darker and more wholesometasting than the regular wheat ones. The impressive list of galettes includes standard choices, like the galette complète (VND125,000), with egg, ham, and emmental cheese, or more unusual options, like the well-named ‘Pommenbert’ galette, with apples and camembert (VND150,000), or galettes with foie gras (VND235,000) or salmon (VND160,000). I chose a galette complète Tomme (VND125,000), with egg, ham, and Tomme cheese from Moc Chau. The galette was delicious, salty and meaty and nicely browned on the outside, and came with a fresh side salad drizzled in a mustard vinaigrette that made me want to lick my bowl clean (it’s ok, Mum, I didn’t!).

Cider and Galette To accompany the meal I sampled some Breton cider (VND75,000), which was fresh and fruity but not sweet, a perfect complement to the heavier flavours of the food. It was called ‘brut’, which is French for amazing, probably. They also have a sweeter

cider, called ‘doux’, if that’s your preference. Other drinks on offer include beer, wine, a selection of flavoured teas, fruit juices, coffees, cocktails, and alcohol-free mocktails. After the galette and cider my lovely companion and I shared a crêpe with Nutella on it (VND65,000). The dessert crêpes are made from regular wheat flour, so they are lighter in both texture and taste, perfect vessels for an end-of-meal sugar injection. Aside from the simple options (chocolate, honey, jam and Nutella, all around VND60,000 to VND65,000) they also have more exciting ones (banana split, Suzette, snickers, homemade salted butter caramel, chocolate with mint ice cream, etc.), all sure to satisfy any sweet-tooth cravings from your inner five-year-old. The waiting staff were friendly and welcoming throughout, and although they did rush around a bit unnecessarily considering it was a slow night, everything arrived promptly. It’s nice when the staff are as serious about getting my dinner to me as I am. Overall, I was blown away by the food at Panam’. For a little taste of Europe, you couldn’t do better. Panam’ is located at 26 Truong Han Sieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

THE VERDICT

14 FOOD

SERVICE

12 DÉCOR

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Food and Drink STREET SNACKER

HANOI

Pho Vit Quay Pho with roasted duck noodles? The street food variations in the capital know no bounds. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola

ho vit quay may sound a bit strange to some people and could be said to be a variation of Hanoi’s traditional and signature pho bo and pho ga. The dish uses similar ingredients for the broth, yet the main ingredient — the duck, replacing beef or chicken — really does bring a different taste and a different mood to the dish. There are not many eateries in town offering pho vit quay — one that features this very tasty dish is Vit Ngoc Phat 96 Lo Duc. Opened five years ago and claimed to be the first eatery to offer this new type of pho in Hanoi, the restaurant attracts a lot of people both for its pho and its wide variety of duck dishes. According to the owner, this pho has its origins in Vietnam’s northern province of Lang Son and its taste reflects Lang Son’s signature style of roasting the duck with a local herb called la moc mat. “Regarding the meat, it all begins with a perfect stuffing mixture made of finely chopped onion, garlic, pepper, cardamom, anise and la moc mat,” the restaurant’s chef says.

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The duck is marinated in the seasoning mixture for at least one hour to make sure the seasoning can seep into the meat. This also helps kill bad odours as well as produce glossy, mouth-watering duck skin when roasted over coals. “Cooked whole then served finely carved into pieces, the duck meat is both juicy and tender,” the chef says. The chef added that duck to be used for pho is cooked slightly less than duck used for dishes that will be immediately served, as it undergoes further cooking when placed in the boiling broth.

In The Simmer Time The pho vit quay broth is another element that bring a real difference in taste compared to traditional pho, as duck ribs and necks are simmered in a big pot to produce the sweet and tasty broth for the pho. First comes a bunch of noodles, a few slices of duck meat, then a bowl of broth and a few kinds of herbs and very fresh onion on top. All of these make up a tempting bowl of pho. As recommended by the chef, take a spoon

of fatty juice extracted from the stuffed stomach of the duck when roasted. Next, try a piece of Vietnamese-styled chilled marinated bamboo shoots, which definitely spices up the broth and adds to the duck taste. Besides pho vit quay, the restaurant offers a wide range of duck dishes, among which vit ap chao or fried duck stewed in a savoury sweet sauce is another of its signature dishes. For someone who loves all things duck, the Quan Vit 29 restaurant chain is another awesome spot to taste duck that is meaty and delicious, and the chance to taste a pho vit quay sibling — bun vit tron or vermicelli with duck. Both of these restaurants also offer a delicious whole duck takeaway for eating at home. Vit Ngoc Phat is located at 96 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi near the crossroads with Nguyen Cong Tru. Pho vit quay is VND30,000 per bowl. The eatery is open from 6am to 2pm for breakfast and lunch, and from 4pm to 9pm for dinner. The Quan Vit 29 chain has a number of outlets, one of which is located downtown at 24 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem. Bun vit tron costs VND30,000 a bowl

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Food and Drink MYSTERY DINER

HCMC

Café-Restaurant Located close to Ben Thanh Market, this recently opened bistro and café is getting some plaudits. So what does our Mystery Diner say? Photos by Francis Xavier

“I

s that it?” My date points at the discreet little entryway. Above it stretches the sign: Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City. Squeezing up the staircase, we turn on the landing to see a huge space, warmly lit, and a tall, smiling blond man with his hand outstretched for a shake. Café-Restaurant is new, but has already featured in a steady stream of positive reviews. My first impressions supported one idea mentioned by them all — the restaurant feels very European, a Continental breeze in Southeast Asia. Serving from breakfast to fashionably late dinners, CRHCMC sources many products locally. They cook with low amounts of salt and sugar, a touch I appreciate as long as the salt shaker is nearby. Seating was prompt due to the late hour. The smiling waiter dropped off soft, steaming rolls with a dish of an intriguingly green spread. We tucked into the warm bread rolls slathered with herbed butter, settling into our familiar debate about what to order.

The Continental Touch While the menu offers a variety of Vietnamese dishes, we went for the Western options. The meat and cheese board (VND200,000), despite its low cost, left us a bit let-down at how little food it held; I barely noticed the sausage and ham. It tasted great, but I had to ask for more bread to support the rich

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chunks of Gouda and bleu cheese. For my entrée, I went with the 250-gram classic steak (VND390,000), a medium-rare striploin with a healthy-sized rind of soft, delicious fat. The accompanying roasted veggies were crisp and lightly glazed with oil. My date pounced on the lamb chops (VND420,000) after a brief debate over the duck breast. The balsamic reduction was tart, sweet and intense, an excellent highnote with the fragrant, juicy lamb — and especially with the roasted Hasselback carrot glittering with crystals of sea-salt. Both cuts of meat came with hefty cupfuls of fries, wrapped in paper in a manner that strongly reminded me of the Netherlands — minus the mayonnaise. The fries were crisp and not too oily, yet we only nibbled; the older I get, the less I eat French fries. We took a side of pesto pasta (VND60,000), light and smooth, bursting with aromatic basil.

Sweet and Tart, Chocolate and Lemon I appreciated the breadth of the drinks menu, though they offer fewer cocktails than one might expect. Local craft beer, bottled Belgian ales, a sizable wine list and a top shelf of spirits that went on forever… then my date tapped my motorbike key, and I ordered a 750ml bottle of San Pellegrino (VND130,000). For dessert, we went decadent: the Pur’ (VND160,000), a wealth of chocolate

mousse topped with a swirl of cream. The house-brewed limoncello (VND160,000) added a balancing tartness. The most novel taste came from the house-brewed Marou chocolate liqueur, normally VND160,000 but dropped off gratis by the smiling owner.

Dutch for Feng Shui Set in a large open space reminiscent of a converted 19th-century factory, the tall windows provide an interesting view over the Ben Thanh Market area. The high ceilings and lack of screens or interior walls reduce the intimacy, though the open seating plan lends itself to parties and large groups. The restaurant is also divided by theme, each area showing a distinct character — the open kitchen where the chefs toil, the formal dining tables, the lounge with its sofas, the long bar. The space flows well. The décor is spare but high quality; a marble-and-brass bar, oak furniture, gorgeous old tiles crowned by a lovely wall painting of French doctor Albert Calmette. Perhaps not the first destination for an anniversary or swank night out, it delivers value for money in a calm, friendly ambience right by Ben Thanh Market. Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City’s central location makes it a great place to pop in for dinner on your way to the theatre or the opera, or for a lunch with business colleagues and friends. Café-Restaurant Ho Chi Minh City is located on the first floor at 171 Calmette, Q1, HCMC. To learn more, visit them at crhcmc.com

THE VERDICT

13 FOOD

SERVICE

13 DÉCOR

Food and Drink

STREET SNACKER

HCMC

The Best Banh Xeo in Saigon The king of snacks, banh xeo is everywhere in Ho Chi Minh City. But which joint makes the best? Natalia MartĂnez went on little tour in search of the winner. Photos by Francis Xavier 102 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

The Vietnamese Dosa Anchored in Vietnamese food history, banh xeo is one the most iconic dishes served at this country’s tables. This snack actually holds a fascinating and surprising story, which disproves the hypothesis that this crepe is a gift from the French cuisine of the late 19th century. According to Cameron Stauch — a chef and writer who lives and works in Hanoi — and some other researchers, banh xeo is in fact a relative of the savoury Indian dosa and a result of the Hindu-influenced kingdom of Champa which occupied the south-central coast of Vietnam until the 19th century. Even though the recipe might have evolved from its original form resulting in

Banh Xeo 46A 46 Dinh Cong Trang, Q1 Price: VND75,000 per portion Open hours: 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 9pm Score: 8/10 The search started in the spot that is meant to be the best in town. Banh Xeo 46A has been recommended in guides and featured in numerous travel shows including Anthony Bourdain’s. To find this banh xeo, look for the pink church in Tan Dinh. Across the street after entering the alley, this corner remains as a veteran in the business; it has

different adaptations, nowadays one thing is sure; the version sold from the early 20th century never fails.

The Art of Eating Banh Xeo Banh xeo’s name comes from the intense sizzling sound the batter produces when it’s poured into the frying pan. The mixture of this savoury pancake — usually made of rice flour, water, eggs and scallions — varies depending on its origin. The central regions are home to a thicker and smaller pan-fried version. The further south you go, the larger the banh xeo gets — this formula uses coconut milk to get a thinner and crispier texture, as well as some turmeric to provide it with a yellow colour.

been selling these crepes for almost 90 years. Groups of tourists come here to experience one of the top dishes you can find on Vietnamese menus. Perhaps this is the reason they remove the head of the prawns, unlike most of the other eateries, something that picky customers might be thankful for. Some say it is overpriced and misses the essence of what it used to be but honestly, after my experience, there was no disappointment. The size of the crepe was challenging to finish, it had a good amount of fillings with a balanced crispiness, all brought together with great service.

Whole prawns, pork belly, bean sprouts and mung beans are sprinkled on the batter, which rests on the hot-fired skillet. Once it is cooked, this golden crepe is folded and served on a tray at the table, accompanied with a bunch of assorted fresh herbs and vegetables such as lettuce, mustard leaves, mint or Vietnamese basil. Grab a chunk of the crepe and use the greens as a wrap for the banh xeo — rice paper or banh trang are sometimes used to get the perfect experience — ready to be dipped in some nuoc mam. Add some extra chilli to make the most of the bite. In order to locate the best banh xeo in Ho Chi Minh City, we visited the following places. Here is our verdict.

Banh Xeo Mien Tay Dien Bien Phu 335 335 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Price: VND35,000 per portion Open hours: 2.30pm to 10pm Score: 7/10 In an alley just off bustling Dien Bien Phu, right before Banana Garden Market (Cho Vuon Chuoi), you can find this popular banh xeo place. This spot also remains on my list of favourites and starts serving early dinners as soon as rush hour begins. Many drivers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even park their bikes since they can just take their crepe on the go as the kitchen overlooks the street, like in most of these eateries. The owner is a known crepe master, as well as the mother of one of my students, who joined me to sample its speciality and shared some secrets about their restaurant. The crunchy pancake that arrived at the table was slightly smaller compared to other versions, but it was substantial enough. The prawns inside had been cooked previously, which gave a more intense flavour to the crepe. This, combined with a fresh homemade chilli sauce, definitely made it an extraordinary dish.

PHOTOS BY NATALIA MARTINEZ

Banh Xeo Ngoc Son 103 Ngo Quyen, Q5 Price: VND50,000 per portion Open hours: 9am to 9pm Score: 6.5/10 If you happen to be in Cho Lon, Ngoc Son should be your place to go. This threestorey establishment has been serving crepes for more than 20 years with great

success, and the crowds that flock there are living proof of its appeal. Families sit around the tables waiting for a colossal banh xeo that dwarfs the plate. Famous for being crispy and with nice lacy edges, this pancake comes with a good amount of fillings in which the prawns are particularly big. However, I found that the dough was lacking a bit of taste, probably diluted by the watery consistency of the bean sprouts.

Banh Xeo Muoi Xiem 190 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Price: VND85,000 per portion Open hours: 10am to 10pm Score: 5/10 Muoi Xiem is the name of a chain that has a few restaurants around the city. This place, inspired by the Mekong Delta countryside, serves traditional food typical of the region. Inside you will find yourself in what looks like a bamboo hut with pictures on the walls of Vietnamese women cooking. With a wide menu full of southern delicacies we decided to try something new since they offer a few different versions of banh xeo with different fillings. The chosen variety was made with seafood, shreds of coconut and extra coconut milk added to the batter. Unfortunately the pancake was too greasy and to our surprise too empty; there was hardly any seafood and the ingredients were all lumped together in the middle. So overall, together with poor service, it was a bit of a disappointing experience considering the price of the pancake.

Banh Xeo CMTT 656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Price: VND8,000 per portion Opening hours: 2.30pm to 10pm Score: 7/10 This is a tiny spot that sits on a corner of one of the busiest streets in Ho Chi Minh City and serves the difficult-to-find central region version of banh xeo. This meal was an interesting local experience that included stares from Vietnamese people and the

constant hustle of motorbikes going up and down this busy road. It certainly gets quite full at night, so go early to grab a stool and indulge in these cute tiny crepes that can be easily devoured in two bites. These were the first banh xeo I tasted when I moved to Vietnam so my judgement towards them is mostly favourable. However, they do feel a bit greasy. This can be solved by adding more herbs to the wrap, but it is perhaps something which is difficult to avoid since they are deep fried.

********** Even though these banh xeo palaces have an indisputable star in their menus, they also offer a wide selection of other Vietnamese dishes such as fresh and fried spring rolls, bo ba lot — beef wrapped in betel leaf — and much more. So, if you haven’t tried it yet, gather some friends and get your hands dirty devouring this delicious crepe that is so integral to Vietnamese cuisine.

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Travel

TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

Bangkok in Squares Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest city through a lens

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or all its ugliness, Bangkok is surprisingly photogenic; beyond the dirt, grime and exhaust fumes, visually the Thai capital has much to commend it. Yet rarely do you see professional photos of the place, except for the ultra-touristy palace or floating market — two sites that make all the brochures. Unless you’ve been there, you won’t have any idea about the look and feel of this city. So over a recent weekend in Bangkok I decided to use this Asian metropolis as my subject matter. I imposed two restrictions. First the lens; a fixed 24mm, 1.4. No zoom meant having to move with the camera to get the right image, which also meant being mobile. In the tropical heat of an urban Asian city, it can get sweaty. The other was that each image would be cropped into a square. Why? For effect. It means you can create a collage, nine or 12 squares a page. Four or six pages. Each page focusing on a different overriding theme. But it also means you are restricting how much subject matter you can get in one photo; you are playing games with the standard rules of composition.

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Don’t Take the Taxis Looking through these photos I am struck as much by what is included as by what is missing; food, five-star hotels, bars, amazing high-rises, restaurants, the sophisticated Thai and the city’s canals. Yet considering this essay was shot in less than 48 hours, it still gives a good impression of what the city is like. As for Bangkok, it’s a city that at times grows on me, and at other times drives me crazy, in particular the taxi drivers. If I catch a taxi and reach a location without being driven to the middle of nowhere — once I almost ended up at Don Muang Airport at 1am — I’m pretty happy. The solution? Start learning Thai — Nick Ross

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Travel TRAVEL

INTERNATIONAL

The Best Restaurants in Phnom Penh It’s just over the border, and yet for many people living in Vietnam, the Cambodian capital remains a mystery. Owen Salisbury goes on a foodie tour of Phnom Penh and discovers that when it comes to dining, this city is in a world of its own

he restaurant scene in Phnom Penh is exploding. With nearly 1,000 restaurants listed on TripAdvisor — up from half that only a couple years ago — you can find almost any type of food imaginable at low to reasonable prices.

Some of it is world-class. Over the course of approximately 10 trips in the last five years, I have come up with list of what I think are the best restaurants in Phnom Penh. These categories are not hard and fast, but reflect my biases and experiences.

Winning Dinners The Tiger’s Eye The brainchild of South African Chef Timothy Bruyns, The Tiger’s Eye is the second iteration of The Common Tiger. Chef Tim spent years cooking in France, at jet-set resorts and on private islands in the Seychelles before opening The Common Tiger — his first restaurant — at the tender age of 31. A whirlwind of dazzling, dynamic food, The Tiger’s Eye is beginning to gain the respect it deserves. Recently opened for

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breakfast, the restaurant’s re-creation also saw changes to its menu. Though still based on what’s fresh in the market that day, the menu also includes a stable roster of favourites as well as constantly evolving specials. Personal favourites include brined pork chops with marinated soy beans and smoked tuna. Overall, The Tiger’s Eye is reasonably priced, with entrees as low as US$9 (VND203,000), but it’s oh-so-easy to spend

more, as everything tastes simply incredible. Starters to salads, entrees to desserts, cocktails to coffee, I’ve yet to have a single bite that was less than delicious. If you truly love food, treat yourself to the US$55 (VND1.24 million) tasting menu and prepare to experience foodvana. It’s easily one of my favourite dining experiences of all time. The Tiger’s Eye is located at 49 Samdech Sothearos, Phnom Penh, just south of the Independence Monument

The Chinese House The only restaurant to give The Tiger’s Eye a run for its money, the newly reopened Chinese House is pretty far off from downtown. Located in a historic building, it looks like an opium den converted to a lowkey discotheque. Run by a South African couple, manager Taki and chef Amy — winner of Iron Chef Thailand — blast Asian fusion cuisine into a parallel universe. No other restaurant has the brass to offer samosas, banh xeo and bun cha next to carpaccio and cheese plates. Asian Contemporary? Pan Pacific? Labels simply cannot do it justice. Personally, I recommend the duck — one of the juiciest duck breasts I’ve ever eaten. Less than a year old, the place is still changing its menu and style, but drink and nibble at small plates downstairs or sit down to full dinners in the vault-ceilinged upper floor. The Chinese House is located at 45 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, in a protected building constructed in 1905

Kaviar Any list of winners will still have a loser. Sorry, Kaviar — set in a historic building and decorated with a Persian-inflected sumptuousness, the food simply didn’t live up to the reputation, the ambience or the price. While not exactly bad, one does not expect bog-standard La Ortega-brand tortillas o be

served with a trio of fragrant yogurt dips, nor for them to be so ill-served by the choice of bread. The chicken was the star; subtly spiced, dusted with char and as juicy as a Georgia peach. The beef was overcooked and dry, and the salad came with a ketchupand-mayo dressing. The dessert soufflé earned them back some

respect, a fluffy treat that dissolved perfectly into the Freixenet Cava Nevada I ordered. Expect a multi-course dinner to run US$50 (VND1.13 million) and up per person, not including wine. Kaviar is located at the corner of Street 55 and Street 242, Phnom Penh, in the historic Residence of King Norodom Suramarit

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Weekday Lunches Topaz The grand old man of French restaurants in Phnom Penh, Topaz opened in 1997. The once-tiny family restaurant moved in December to a space that looks more like an art museum than an eatery. Priced accordingly, the best way to dine there without torturing your wallet is their US$20+ set lunch (VND450,000). Choices vary, but everything I’ve tried — from duck breast to roast beef — was excellent, classic French cuisine done right. Dinner goes for more like US$50 (VND1.13 million) per person, or potentially much more, given their caviar-and-lobster style. With little touches like warm bread and butter in chilled stone boxes and wildly creative amuse-bouches I’ve yet to see repeated, Topaz kills it with the Western crowd, particularly the well-heeled and well-connected. Service is quick and unobtrusive. Topaz also boasts a superior wine selection and spirits to match. Topaz is located at 162 Preah Norodom, Phnom Penh.

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Open Wine Topaz may be the leader, but Open Wine is the popular favourite and offers the best value for money. Their three-course US$12 (VND270,000) set lunch doesn’t include booze, but with a price that low, you can afford to indulge yourself a little with a glass of cab sauv or an après-lunch glass of calvados.

Also popular with the diplomatic crowd, Open Wine is considerably lower-key than Topaz, perfect for long, lazy lunches with a paperback. The décor isn’t anything special, but the service is great and the food a positive steal. The cuisine is more southwest France than classical Parisian, but has plenty of

favourites and a weekly specials menu. The chef reputedly returned from a six-month refresher course, cooking in some of the finer kitchens in France. Try the carpaccio and the pork filet with mustard sauce and potato croquettes. Open Wine is located at 219 Street 19, Phnom Penh, right next to the Royal Palace

La Residence Connected in some way to the Royal palace — no one I asked ever told the same story — La Rez is a beautiful, chic respite from the heat and hustle of the capital’s streets. Clearly, one could come here for a truly swank dinner, but La Rez’s set lunches define the higher end of that market. Choose either the regular three-course menu for US$17 (VND378,000), or the three-course gourmet for US$32 (VND712,000). Either way, the chefs turn a suave hand to 21st-century French cuisine. For a starter, definitely try the pea soup with cappuccino cream, and follow up with the chicken roulade. Not included in the set lunch, their foie gras selections are their crowning glory; it’s die-happy level indulgence. One of the most beautiful restaurants on the list, so take some time to look at the sculpted gardens outside or sit under the waterfall as you dine. Be sure to check out the carefully selected objets d’art scattered throughout the space. Prices for anything outside the menu are high — like US$5 (VND111,000) for water — so be watchful. But hey, even with lunch, you’re not here to pinch pennies. La Residence is located at No. 22-24 Samdach Pan Avenue (Street 214), Phnom Penh. It also features private dining rooms and a Salon de Thé

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Good for Anything Malis No list of the best of Phnom Penh would be complete without Malis, a high-end imagining of Khmer food that is eminently reasonable in price and exquisitely beautiful in location. For the best experience, ask to sit in the garden and enjoy the splashing fountains, pools and smiling statue of the Buddha.

Luigi’s Bassac Lane is home to half a dozen upand-coming restaurants, but one stands out; Luigi’s serves authentic Italian food with a kind of manic insistence on quality over everything else. Looking as though a teleporter accident fused a sleepy Napolitano pizzeria with a Cambodian café, Luigi’s features a standard array of pizzas, pastas, desserts and digestifs. The deli counter crammed between counter and door is special, as is the marvellous selection of imported cheese and meat crammed therein. Whatever they don’t import, they make in-house to amazing effect. The pizzas are thin-crust perfection, with a hint of char on the bottom, sweetly acidic tomato sauce and bubbling-hot mozzarella. Portions are large and prices reasonable, but the café itself is tiny, so it’s easy for supper to end with your elbow in your neighbour’s tiramisu. Luigi’s is located at M36 Street 308, Phnom Penh, near Bassac Lane

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It would be more peaceful if it was less crowded, but I’m happy to see Malis take in the customers; it’ll still be there next time I want to go. Another place that serves an excellent duck breast, Malis also has some interesting cocktails featuring local ingredients. Be sure to try their signature dessert, a mousse with

jasmine flowers and honey over fruit. Service is efficient and friendly, and they are happy to help you navigate the intricacies of Khmer cuisine. Malis is located at 136 Preah Norodom (Street 41), Phnom Penh. If you want to eat dinner at a normal time, make reservations especially on weekends

Staring Into The Tiger’s Eye

Limoncello You know a restaurant is good when the only thing your girlfriend wants from Phnom Penh is one of their pizzas. More than once have I bought two to go just before hopping on the bus; one for her, and one for the road. The first restaurant I ate at in Phnom Penh and until recently my favourite authentic Italian place in Southeast Asia, I make a point to go back most visits. The pizza diavola is terrific, as is the pizza carbonara. Limoncello isn’t just a pizzeria, of course; their pasta is amazingly authentic, and they

have a small but respectable stock of Italian wines to match. They also have the best homemade limoncello this side of Campania, which goes brilliantly with their panna cotta and a dash of espresso. Not the most elegant or fashionable place to dine, Limoncello is here because the food is consistently terrific, full stop. Limoncello is located at 81 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh, around the corner from the Giant Ibis Bus Terminal in case you have a few hours to kill

Charismatic, tattooed and handsome, Timothy Bruyns, the 34-year-old South African chef and owner of The Tiger’s Eye, doesn’t look like your average chef and restaurateur. His first version of The Tiger’s Eye — The Common Tiger — gained a nearly cult-like following but also some surprisingly vitriolic reviews. His cooking style is so eclectic and improvisational, that it’s almost a love-it-or-hate-it affair. Tim dropped out of university and abandoned a smooth path to the corporate world because he couldn’t muster any passion for it. Odd-jobbing in restaurants led to cooking, and working long hours for poor wages in his native South Africa. Before long, his wandering feet and obvious culinary talents led him to grander jobs in more refined kitchens. Almost like some kind of TV Shaolin monk, Chef Tim spent a decade wandering the earth and learning to cook. After cheffing in the UK, France and Tanzania, Tim worked at a private island in the Seychelles where he cooked for celebrities from around the world, including Robert de Niro. He also possesses one trait often overlooked by even serious gourmets; pedigree. Tim worked at the Singita Hotel, one of whose chefs apprenticed at Troisgros, a Michelin 3-star since 1968 and one of the more influential restaurants of the last century. Chef Tim’s not there yet, but with time, with his creativity and passion, there’s no telling what he’ll achieve.

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Travel TRAVEL

NATIONAL

10 Destinations in Vietnam to Visit in 2016 Or, the alternative guide to travelling in Vietnam. Words by Nick Ross

or a publication that celebrates the diversity of Vietnam, it has always been a frustration that people constantly visit the same places. Yes, we genuinely love destinations such as Hoi An, Phu Quoc, Halong Bay and Sapa. When it comes to tourist-friendly delights, in the main they do a great job. But there is far

more to travelling through this country than hitting Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and the country’s tour group hotspots. If you want to feel like you’ve ‘done’ Vietnam, here are 10 places we say you absolutely must visit in 2016. Just don’t always expect it to be easy. Five star hotels? In some places, not a bloomin’ chance.

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

Ha Giang Ha Giang is categorically the most beautiful province in Vietnam. It’s also the most northerly, too. Every valley you pass through is different, the next more exhilarating than the last. Word has been there twice to take photos and write articles. We were mesmerised both times. Why? The scenery. If they say seeing is believing, in the case of Ha Giang, seeing is also about holding your breath. Yes, we’ll use the

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throwaway words — it’s breathtaking. Home to about six or seven ethnic minorities, most of whom still live in the mountains and wear traditional dress, the jewel in a very large crown is the pass just outside of the former French hill station, Dong Van. With a 1km drop to the river below, and mountains towering above, pinch yourself and you might think you’re in the Andes.

Getting There-o-meter: Hard. Think overnight sleeper bus. Getting around? Even harder, unless you don’t mind hiring a motorcycle or a four-wheel-drive jeep. Accommodation Watch: Erm... Well... They’ve got guesthouses in the towns. Just don’t expect creature comforts.

PHOTOS BY WORD VIETNAM / AARON JOEL SANTOS

Hue The former Imperial capital of Vietnam should be on every Ron, Mick and Mary’s bucket list, but thanks to the nearby charms and more tourist-friendly meccas of Hoi An and Danang, this tranquil yet endearing city is often overlooked. The problem? Yes, it’s got a citadel and tombs and museums and beautiful countryside and bridges and boat cruises, but it’s just not by the sea, there are no tailors and there’s nothing to buy — unless you like food, ‘cos Hue is good at that. Now we at Word love Hue. It’s a city of artisans and culture, and travel inland and the jungle-clad mountains are the stuff of war movies. So should you go there? Hell, yes! This is culture, baby, culture, with great scenery thrown in, too. Getting There-o-meter: Yes, Hue’s got an airport, a new airport even. Let’s jump for joy. It’s also on the Open Tour bus route and the north-south train line. Woohoo! Accommodation Watch: If you like 1920s elegance, then La Residence is oh-so oohla-la. There’s a lot of budget around, too, especially close to the Pham Ngu Lao area.

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PHOTO BY WORD VIETNAM / FRANCIS ROUX

Phong Nha You may not be able to visit the largest cave in the world — for preservation and safety purposes, entrance is both restricted and expensive. But the other caves are well worth the journey. Take the water caves of Tu Lan. There’s something Harrison Ford about this place as you swim through the grottos in the pitch black and end up in a hidden outdoor lake. And then there’s Hang En, home to 100,000 swallows with its indoor beach and subterranean mystique. Part of a national park, the limestone karsts and jungle give Phong Nha an extra aura, and with a town developing faster than the speed of a construction truck flying down Highway 1, this is becoming a place to chill out as well. Ever heard of the Pub With Cold Beer? Go to Phong Nha and you might just. Ever wanted to cycle down back roads through the rolling countryside? Go to Phong Nha and it’s at your fingertips. Getting There-o-meter: Flights from Hanoi go to Dong Hoi, the area’s only city. You can also hit the train or even take a bus from Hue. This one’s easy. Just, if you fly, make sure you know your taxi fare first. VND500,000 from the airport to Phong Nha can be hard to swallow. Accommodation Watch: No five-stars here yet, but a lot of excellent homestaystyle options with idyllic scenery. Phong Nha Farmstay is a keeper, as is the dorm accommodation at Easy Tiger. Want to stay at the home of Ho Khanh, the person who discovered the world’s largest cave? Well even he’s got a riverside homestay these days.

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Mai Chau Set in a valley surrounded by mountains, over the past decade this destination four hours from Hanoi has become commercialised. Yet fortunately it still boasts the charm of the past that makes it a destination of choice. The key? This is backwater ethnic minority idyll. Perfect for those who still glorify the, ummm, noble savage. Yes, had to get a bit of Rousseau into this one. Inhabited by the stilt-house living Black Thai, the majority of the accommodation is shared, with guests sleeping in longhouses attached to people’s homes. Add to this the paddy fields, the isolated valley location, the countryside walks and the time-hasforgotten villages, you get why people like to come here. Mai Chau is not only a place you have to visit, but it’s also a great stopping off point for anyone wanting to head to the wild northwest. And just four hours from Hanoi, it’s a welcome break from the big city. Getting There-o-meter: This is one you can drive. The road to Hoa Binh is one of the safer highways out there. Buses also do the trip from Hanoi. Accommodation Watch: Did we say something about stilt houses?

Nam Cat Tien PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

When it comes to jungle, Vietnam really doesn’t quite get it right, especially when you compare what’s on offer elsewhere in Southeast Asia. However, Nam Cat Tien remains the one stand-out. With a main base around the park HQ — a number of chilled homestays have sprung up next to the river in the last couple of years — this is a place where you can trek and genuinely see animals in the wild. On our last trip we spotted douc langurs, peacocks, lizards, gaurs and deer. It’s also a good place to go cycling — Ta Lai Longhouse has bikes for rent for the 12km track to the main park area. And if you’re lucky, you might even spot some elephant dung. We did, which meant staying vigilant. Oh, and don’t forget gibbon island, an NGO-sponsored conservation project that saves primates and other mammals, wherever possible releasing them back into the wild. The dedication of the staff here is remarkable. Getting There-o-meter: You’re gonna need a bus for this one, from Mien Dong Bus Station in Saigon. It’s a three-hour ride. Motorbike — we would recommend against it. These roads are dangerous. Accommodation Watch: We love Ta Lai Longhouse. Communal sleeping accommodation, communal eating, a great lake for swimming and kayaking. But the homestays near the park HQ are also worth checking out.

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PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

Quy Nhon Imagine a coastal city like Danang, but much smaller. Combine it with a city like Ho Chi Minh City, but with the atmosphere of the early 2000s, and then add in probably the best beaches in Vietnam and almost definitely the finest seafood (sorry Phu Quoc). This is Quy Nhon. Often passed over for Danang to the north and Nha Trang to the south, Quy Nhon is Vietnam as it once was, without the razzmatazz, rooftop bars and bling. Instead, this is deckchairs on the promenade by the

beach, late-night outdoor drinking on plastic stools, with the occasional five-star or fourstar hotel thrown in for good measure. Add in the Cham temples — they litter the area surrounding Quy Nhon — deserted beaches and Bai Xep to the south, a travellers’ haven that no-one knows about, and this is an area definitely worth exploring. We’ve done it twice and we’re still in love. Getting There-o-meter: The local airport,

Phu Cat, serves flights from both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Then there’s the northsouth train. The only problem? Many of the Open-Tour buses stop here in the middle of the night. Accommodation Watch: Here there’s the full gamut, although don’t expect Hyatt and InterCon-style five-stars. Not a chance. But for dormitory accommodation and beachstyle four-star resorts, head to Bai Xep — you won’t regret it.

Kontum Word has been to Kontum once. We spent one day there and had a blast. The quite phenomenal Tan Huong church, built entirely of wood and adobe, the dragon houses, the ethnic minority Bahnar who live bang in the middle of town, the wedding we ended up at, the karaoke we sang, the drunken overnight journey back to Saigon and all that rice wine drunk out of a shared barrel with straws. Yes, we had one of those unforgettable experiences — this is a side to Vietnam you will rarely see. It’s also the only city in the Central Highlands — including Buon Me Thuot, Gia Lai and Pleiku — that has any cultural colour. Just 130km from Attapeu, the closest town in Laos, it’s also the gateway to the rest of Southeast Asia. Getting There-o-meter: Did anyone say overnight bus? Accommodation Watch: Er, not a clue. Didn’t stay there. But apparently you can hitch up with the ethnic Bahnar. Now, that would be interesting.

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

Con Dao Wild, wild, wild! That is the best way to describe this archipelago to the southeast of mainland Vietnam. Formerly called Poulo Condore when it was used by the French as the Indochinese version of Devil’s Island — yes the old prisons are all still here — these days it’s the Vietnamese army presence that is noticeable. Not that this is a bad thing. With the army and navy controlling huge swathes of the land, it means the islands are protected, protected from the encroachment of man, and protected from over-development. Word has been here twice and we love the scenery — so much of it is untouched. We also love the fishing ports, the weather — here you can get four seasons within a day — and the sense that this is a place

where nature rules, not man. The National Park, night-time turtle hatching on Bay Canh, great diving, stunning beaches, good seafood, and of course one of the best fivestars in Vietnam, Six Senses Con Dao. Need we say more? Getting There-o-meter: A ferry goes from Vung Tau to Con Dao, but you’d be mad to go that way as there are now around six daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City. But to get around, make sure you hire a motorbike. Worth every dong of the ride. Accommodation Watch: Six Senses Con Dao. Six Senses Con Dao. Six Senses Con Dao. (there are also some well-appointed guesthouses in the main town, Con Son).

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PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

Chau Doc The Mekong Delta has many destinations worth checking out — Sa Dec, Ben Tre, Tra Vinh, Ha Tien, My Tho — but for cultural and geographic contrasts, the border town of Chau Doc has to be the most interesting. Sat at the confluence of three rivers, on one side you have the mosques and kampong-style villages of the Muslim Cham. On the other is the main city, with its pagodas, markets and obsession with fish (the canh chua ca or sweet and sour broth with fish is exceptional). Overlooking it all is Sam Mountain, home to one of the great religious pilgrimages of Vietnam. And surrounding the city are paddy fields, canals, small lanes and rickety bridges, perfect for a bit of cycling. Head south and you pass through Khmer villages with their Theravada pagodas and sugar palms. And a few kilometres further on you come to Tra Su bird sanctuary, a twitcher’s paradise, especially when the water is high. Imagine taking a canoe, in Apocalypse Now-style silence through the swamps, while all about you birds flap and search for food. Surrounding you are vines, strange mosses, mangrove trees with gnarled roots, and odd flowers peaking out of the gloom. That’s Tra Su. Getting There-o-meter: A five-hour bus ride from Saigon, the other more comfortable option is by boat from My Tho. You may have to take the Victoria Hotels boat service, but it’s worth every penny as you get to see the Mekong. Chau Doc is also the gateway to Cambodia. Accommodation Watch: Victoria Hotels has two properties here. One in town on the river, and another on Sam Mountain. There are also a number of guesthouses right in town.

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PHOTOS BY QUANG NONG / WORD VIETNAM

Lang Son Often described as the gateway to China, this northwesterly city just four hours from Hanoi has a long, battle-ridden history. Today its glorious past is crowned by its ancient, 16th-century citadel. Built during the Mac Dynasty, only two walls remain and while the North Gate was renovated in 2010, the South Gate has been reclaimed by nature. Surrounded by limestone karsts, and sat next to Phai Loan Lake, for pure beauty and an aura of ‘what once was’, this is a wonderful place to visit for a couple of days. Two caves — Tam Thanh and Nhi Thanh — are part of the checking-it-out experience, as is heading to the night market and trying the roasted pork and the pho chua (sweet and sour noodles). But more importantly, this is a place that mixes Chinese culture with Vietnamese, past with present, the Vietnam of today with that of the past. Despite being a border town, there’s much to commend Lang Son, and only four hours from Hanoi, it’s perfect for a weekend break. Getting There-o-meter: The bus takes four to five hours and there’s also a train route — taking the train is part of the Lang Son experience. To get around, try getting hold of a motorbike. You’ll need it. Accommodation Watch: There’s a Muong Thanh hotel in town if you’re after a Vietnamese four-star, beyond that you’re looking at small guesthouses.

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Travel

DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888

anamandara-resort.com

DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444

dalatpalace.vn

This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999

dalatgreencityhotel.com

Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555

contact@hoteldelopera.com

DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365

dalattrainvilla.com

Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663

M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555

hanoi-daewoohotel.com

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Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396

hanoi.hgi.com

With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500

hanoi.hilton.com

Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.

INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888

hanoi.intercontinental.com

This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

jwmarriotthanoi.com

From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688

maydeville.com

The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343

meliahanoi.com

Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800

moevenpick-hanoi.com

With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688

pullman-hanoi.com

With deluxe rooms and

suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000

sheraton.com/hanoi

Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919

sofitel.com

The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem

sixonsixteen.com

Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969

goldensilkhotel.com

Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable

minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048

josephshotel.com

Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999

hanovahotel.com

A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372

hanoibackpackershostel.com

Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777

equatorial.com/hcm

This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn

The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon

In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

LE MÉRIDIEN SAIGON $$$$ 3C Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC Tel: (08) 6263 6688

lemeridien.com/saigon

Marking the brand’s debut in Vietnam, Le Méridien Saigon is the gathering place for curious and creative-minded travellers. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City next to the Saigon River, the property is close to the metropolis's entertainment and commercial areas, making it an ideal base for exploring the local culture and community. Experience this cosmopolitan city in stimulating surroundings.

LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333

legendsaigon.com

Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

saigon.newworldhotels.com

Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:

(08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686

pullmanhotels.com

Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

riverside-apartments.com

Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1117

renaissance-saigon.com

This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a first-floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheraton.com/saigon

Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688

windsorplazahotel.com

The full ensemble with its

own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201

continentalhotel.com.vn

This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture. NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866

novotel-saigon-centre.com

Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090

villasong.com

Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926

lanlanhotel.com.vn

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966

alcovehotel.com.vn

M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992

ducvuonghotel.com

Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699

dunahotel.com

HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915

honghoavn.com

SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)

3827 4648

sinhhuonghotel.com.vn

M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An

anbangbeachretreat.com

CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231

hotelcuadai-hoian.com/

DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800

danangbeachresort.com.vn

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888

furamavietnam.com

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234

danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888

pullman-danang.com

Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.

MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777

mercure-danang.com

Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accormanaged property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888

starcitysaigon.vn

The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

kimdohotel.com

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 127

NOTES FROM ANOTHER CITY

Dragon Bridge

Cham Charm

One of Danang's best known attractions, at night it even breathes fire

The Cham Museum in Danang is not just one of the best attractions in the city, it's one of the most fascinating museums in the whole of Vietnam

y boss and I were discussing the upcoming holiday. “I’m thinking of going to Danang for the break,” I tell him. “Danang? Why on earth would you want to go there?” The boss’s reaction was fairly typical. Most tourists tend to overlook Danang, regarding it as a transit point rather than a holiday venue. That was exactly the way I had looked at it before my first visit. Getting off the northbound Reunification Express there, I intended to spend the least possible amount of time in Central Vietnam’s largest city before boarding a bus for nearby Hoi An. The next bus wasn’t for another hour, so to fill in time I got in a taxi and said to the driver “Take me somewhere interesting”. His first stop was China Beach, and it was there and then that I decided to postpone my bus ride to Hoi An, and spend the next few days getting to know Danang instead. I’m a sucker for beaches.

128 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Exciting and Unexciting Danang

By Don Wills

China Beach is a 30km stretch of spotless white sand, clear blue water, and waves big enough to set any surfer’s heart racing. It was at this beach where the war-happy air force captain in Apocalypse Now coaxed a couple of his men into going surfing. China Beach was where US soldiers were sent for their R&R. This drew a legion of ladies of the night to the area, intent on relieving the GIs of as many of their dollars as possible. The soldiers nicknamed the beach ‘The five and dime’. The GIs are long gone, but the pro trade remains to this day. But, of course, times change, and nowhere do they change so fast as in Vietnam. The ramshackle buildings and plywood bars of China Beach’s war days have now been replaced by swish hotels, mega malls, ultra-modern condominiums and trendy restaurants. China Beach isn’t the only attraction Danang has up its sleeve. The Marble Mountains, 10km to the southeast, are a

ENTRY 3:

Danang, Why?

Son Tra Peninsula Design-wise, the InterContinental in Danang is one of the most unusual resorts in Vietnam

range of five rocky limestone outcrops jutting out to sea. The mountains are honeycombed with caves that have housed Buddhist sanctuaries for hundreds of years (many now pock-marked by bullet holes). The most popular cave is Quan Am, with stalactites and stalagmites that some say resemble figures of Buddha or mythical creatures. Another, deservedly less popular cave is Hell Cave. Entering this is like entering one of those ghost houses you get in second-rate fairgrounds back home. Flickering lights and skeletons with winking red eyes are intended to scare the pants off you, but fail miserably. At the foot of Marble Mountains are scores of impressive carved marble figures from Buddhist folklore. There are also some more modern sculptures, including garden gnomes, fountains, and one of Michelangelo’s David. You will of course have the obligatory photo taken of yourself standing beside David, and subsequently tell everyone you show it to “I’m the one

on the right, by the way”. (Ah, the childish pleasures some people indulge in.) Some travellers have labelled Marble Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting attraction’. You can’t please everybody. Another of Danang’s attractions is the military museum, strewn with the detritus of war. You can join groups of school children on guided tours and see the dramatic collection of captured American tanks, fighter jets and helicopters. And another item of interest; Dragon Bridge. Spanning the Han River, the three

giant loops of the dragon’s tail constantly change colour, from yellow to blue to green to turquoise. On Saturday and Sunday nights the dragon’s mouth breathes fire and water. It’s well worth a visit. So, the next time the subject of Danang comes up, don’t dismiss it out of hand as an also-ran, not worth the time or money. It’s far more than that. Born in New Zealand, Don Wills doesn’t live in Danang, but he does live in Southeast Asia. He’s been writing his way round the region for decades

“Some travellers have labelled Marble Mountains ‘Vietnam’s most unexciting attraction’. You can’t please everybody”

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 129

Travel

THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000

M M M

Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222

M M M

2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

ghmhotels.com

HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800

angsana.com/en/lang_co

Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888

banyantree.com/en/lang_co

Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475

la–residence–hue.com

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736

PHOTO BY NICK ROSS

hoangphuonghotel.com

130 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

NHA TRANG

sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination

The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat. SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000

sheraton.com/nhatrang

M M M PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727

ninhchubay.com

junglebeachvietnam.com

On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this one of a kind destination.

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666

BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384

mianhatrang.com

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900

novotel-nhatrang.com

This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222

sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination

blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com

COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111

cocobeach.net

With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995. JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177

joescafemuine.com

A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix. MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440

miamuine.com

VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000

victoriahotels.asia

Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844

easytigerphongnha@gmail. com

A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night. HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182

phong-nha-homestay.com

PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367

5135

phong-nha-cave.com

The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

M M M PHU QUOC BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998

beachclubvietnam.com

A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season. MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207

mangobayphuquoc.com

An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA RESORT PHU QUOC ISLAND $$$$ Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: (08) 3929 3097 Hotline 0907 99 55 02

salindaresort.com

Set on the sea and only 4km away from Phu Quoc International Airport, Salinda is inspired by an interplay of rustic local heritage with contemporary design. The

property has 121 rooms and villas with private balconies, and provides a luxury experience that embodies the understated beauty and enchanting spirit of the pearl of Asia.

M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946

catcathotel.com

The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)

topasecolodge.com

With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.

M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553

binhanvillage.com

CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939

condaoresort.vn

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525

hotramresort.com

This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bun-

galows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631

sanctuary.com.vn

The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135

rexhotelvungtau.com

SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222

sixsenses.com/sixsensescondao THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888

thegrandhotramstrip.com

The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.

M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702

buffalotours.com.vn

A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and

corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150

exotravel.com

A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays. HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828

handspan.com

Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844

hgtravel.com

Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com). INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308

intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales

Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses

on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture. TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977

kien@travelsense.asia

A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.

TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170

buffalotours.com

This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19

exotravel.com

A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives. FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744

flightravelco.com

Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES Tel: 0946 704095

grasshopperadventures.com

Escape the bustle with

Southeast Asia’s top rated bike tour company. Run guided day tours to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels. Also organize longer, two to 14-day tours throughout Vietnam. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754

terraverdetravel.com

If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585

vietnamvespaadventure. com

Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.

TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659

backofthebiketours.com

Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM

beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com

Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436

tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn

Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 131

THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 13: BOLLYWOOD, COLOURS AND CHOCOLATE-COVERED PAAN...

On the back of his bike, Nemo, Matt covers wild distances across India

DAY 229 West Bengal Staying with a tea estate family, nice house, with a biogas stove, fresh milk from cows outside and they have more servants than I can count.

DAY 231 Covering the Distance On good roads, I’ve covered on average about 350km in a day. But I haven’t had many good roads lately. On bad roads, trials, paths, swamps and rivers, maybe 150km, or way less. Today, I did 500km. I’m driving through Bihar, infamous for most bad things you ever hear of India on the news. Seems like people commonly carry rifles with them here and although it seems peaceful enough, it’d be

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good if I didn’t get stranded here in the dark. By evening, Patna, the state capital. The city feels like a mess. “Inviting” is likely not the word I’d use. I’m staying with the only foreign expat in town. And I’m right in time, he just installed wooden security braces to bar his doors from intruders. But he’s not afraid of thugs, he’s been tipped off that cops are headed to visit him for a little dose of their daily ‘extortion’, everyday business here apparently.

DAY 233 Varanasi Benares. It’s all of India condensed into one riverside. Fat guy in speedos whacking laundry on a rock in filthy water.

Surprisingly unobtrusive (I don’t hang around long enough to find otherwise) sadhus all around. Raja-types lounging behind big, cloth umbrellas. A fit, young dude pushing a charred human corpse with a stick, deeper into the fire. Cows shitting all around. “Hello, boat sir?” is the ever-present echo. A smell of incense, a smell of piss. Statues of Hanuman, murals of Shiva and others. And families bathing. Why are they all so darn fat? They don’t even eat beef here. One old lady’s boob spills out from under her sari, another yells at her to cover up. And the ‘massage-guy’ trap; a “friendly” handshake, enough to lock you into a suspiciously cheap 10-rupee massage. And this city feels so darn old. Mark Twain once

said Varanasi was “older than history…” Guess I’m not selling it very well, to someone who doesn’t already ‘understand’ Vanarasi. Whatever, I feel happy here.

DAY 235 No-Luck-Now Drove 400km to Lucknow and eight guesthouses in a row give me the same answer: “Full.” ... but there’s nobody here. Ugh. Dark night. I’m drained and one place finally takes pity on me, lets me in. And it’s a dungeon. Used condoms in the corner and I think they bled out a pig from the window, don’t dare to guess what else those red streaks on the walls could be. I hope I don’t need to use the toilet, I don’t even dare peek

inside. And at the least I know that I won’t be tempted to sleep in. First light of morning and I’m gone.

DAY 239 The Taj I’ve seen the Pyramids, the Great Wall, the Eiffel Tower and so on, but none has ever made an impression on me as much as the Taj Mahal. And eight years since my first visit, I hesitate to go again. What if I don’t feel the same this time? Will it dispel the magic? But despite terrible food poisoning, I drag myself up by 5am, pay the exorbitant, racist fee and make my way to the gates. And just like the first time, this place simply makes me smile.

DAY 242 Zangoora. It’s a Bollywood Disneyland. What a treat! A live-action Indian fantasy happening right in front of me. Crowds dancing, video projections all around, awesome costumes, wicked witches flying overhead next to princesses in swan boats dropping flower petals into the audience. And naturally, a cocky prince who dumps his awesome exgirlfriend for a bimbo princess, “cause that was their fate.” Ah, poor girl, come to me, I’ll comfort you. But whatever, in the end everybody and their mothers are all happy and dancing wildly to Jai Ho. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky production blog at www. EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog

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Hanoi

Day Tripper: Hanoi / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / The Therapist / Top Eats / Medical Buff Photo by Julie Vola 134 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Hanoi Essentials

ALTERNATIVE HEALTH A-ROAMING BODYWORKER

gkaren@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com

Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE

issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.

M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM (BBGV) 193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 6674 0945

HANOI OIS

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE

NETBALL CLUB

AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX

The chamber of commerce for all things relating to the UK and British-born expats living in the capital. Puts on monthly networking events, gala dinners, fundraising events and much more.

FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

bbgv.org

CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

ccifv.org

EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228

eurochamvn.org

ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229

icham.org

SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh

sbav-hanoi.org

M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA

23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.

TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE

M M M

LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP

VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS

44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151

CLUBS & SOCIETIES

XUNHASABA

AMERICAN CLUB

ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

EVENT SPACE

32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068

M M M BUSINESS GROUPS AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790

amchamhanoi.com

AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994

auschamvn.org

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850 GOETHE INSTITUT GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi

HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP

hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115

thehanoiclub.com

hanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE 24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164

vphanoi-lespace.com

M M M CLOTHING BOO SKATESHOP

5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

SKATESHOP

THREE TREES

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

JEWELLERY

booskateshop.com

CHULA 43 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho; 24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 258960

chulafashion.com

The work of Spanish couple Laura and Diego, this homegrown Hanoi brand describes themselves as creating wearable art. Designing pieces that are trendy, elegant, Western and yet distinctly Asian, their shop and arts space focuses on lifestyle, with regular events and more. CONTRABAND

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

AIR ASIA airasia.com

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725

M M M

AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088

hanoicookingcentre.com

Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

AIRLINES

HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045

hiddenhanoi.com.vn

A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com

CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS

8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

L’ATELIER WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758

ateliervietnam.com

Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831

Mekong-quilts.org

Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in

SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

Hanoi Essentials

several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Tel: (04) 3928 5190

artvietnamgallery.com

Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789

Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks.

Daloc.vn

DON’S TAY HO

MANZI

KITCHEN ART

BICYCLE RENTALS

GALLERY & BAR / CAFE

KITCHENWARE

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770

CYCLING

Dons-bistro.com

facebook.com/manzihanoi

HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009

Hanoigourmet.com

kitchenart.vn

BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS

Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices.

70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941

NHA SAN COLLECTIVE

RED APRON

GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS

WINE RETAILER

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316

10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337

GREEN BIKE CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST

15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES

34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS

THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES

29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156

thbc.vn

DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC

nhasanstudio.org

The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.

DENTAL CLINIC

VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM

3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434

NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM

australiandentalclinic.com PEACE DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286

peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131

vnfam.vn

Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.

SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

WORK ROOM FOUR

DENTAL CLINIC

Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho

19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888

serenitydentalclinic.com

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555

westcoastinternational.com

The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

GALLERIES ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,

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ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

workroomfour.com

A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP

3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130

naturallyvietnam.com

THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE

17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854 VEGGIE’S GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701

warehouse-asia.com

M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899 HAIR STREAM UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON

162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907

GROCERIES / DELI

First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le

AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC (ACC) CHIROPRACTORS & PHYSIOTHERAPISTS

44 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (4) 3265 6888

acc.vn/en

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems. BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL 136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717

bumrungrad.vn

JAPAN INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL (JIEH) INTERNATIONAL EYE HOSPITAL 32 Pho Duc Chinh, Ba Dinh, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3715 3666

GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER

The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500

INDOCHINA PLAZA

241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596

LOTTE CENTER

54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016

lottecenter.com.vn

jieh.vn

JIEH is a 100% Japaneseinvested eye hospital. Using the latest technology and built according to Japanese standards, the facility is the first in Vietnam to use Mel 90 (Carl Zeiss - Germany), and is one of first three eye hospitals in the country using Visumax (Carl Zeiss - Germany) for refractive surgery. Top-end customer service and a friendly, contemporary environment add to the mix.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748

On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100

PARKSON

Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666

parkson.com.vn PICO MALL

229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400

SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214

TRANG TIEN PLAZA

cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi

trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999

hfh.com.vn

LAN SALON

HONG NGOC HOSPITAL

TOP-END SALON

PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190

SHOPPING MALLS

HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL

vietnammedicalpractice.com

WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER

ANNAM GOURMET

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS

55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880

hongngochospital.vn

VINCOM ROYAL CITY

72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666

Internationalsos.com

Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL

12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231 VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556

vinmec.com

M M M INSURANCE IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370

insuranceinasia.com

LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111

libertyinsurance.com.vn

REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488

M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435

bishanoi.com

A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878

concordiahanoi.org

A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier

of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140

hisvietnam.com

With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183

isvietnam.org

A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

Gamuda Gardens, Km 4.4 Phap Van, Hoang Mai, Tel (04) 6666 1818

kinderworld.net/sis

Provides an international education for students from primary up to university level. A strong curriculum provides core subjects from the Singaporean and Vietnamese curricula, as well as specialist programmes from Britain, America and Canada, all taught by qualified teachers. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551

unishanoi.org

Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.

M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS

37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS

106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464 PHUNG MOTORBIKE MOTORBIKE RENTALS

13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105 VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE RENTALS & REPAIRS

17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS

6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332

fair-realestate.com

GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS

R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589

gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS

No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828

hanoirenting.com

LANLINH PROPERTY RENTALS

38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999

houseinhanoi.com

VIETLONG HOUSING RENTALS

21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203

vietlonghousing.com

M M M RELOCATION AGENTS ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511

vn.alliedpickfords.com

The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam.

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3743 0306; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel (04) 3934 7243; C5 – C11, 1st floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel (04) 3764 0209

kinderworld.net

Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418

hanoi.qsi.org

QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel (04) 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel (04) 3758 2664; Road 2,

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DAY TRIPPER: HANOI SOC SON

Jesse Meadows makes a pilgrimage to a pagoda and statue to the northwest of Hanoi

he hero of what was described to me as “a Vietnamese bedtime story”, Thanh Giong, is revered for crushing invaders from the back of a steel horse with giant sticks of yellow bamboo. When he had successfully defeated his adversaries, he rode off into heaven from the top of Soc Son Mountain, now the site of a pagoda and monument in his honour, about 30km northwest of Hanoi. I decided I needed to make a pilgrimage to this monument with my friend James, who had recently been gifted a tattoo of Thanh Giong on his left bicep by a talented Hanoian artist. To get there from Tay Ho, we took the

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Nhat Tan Bridge towards the airport, turned right onto QL2A, and then left onto QL3 into the town of Soc Son. At this point, it got a bit messy. There were quite a few peaks dotted around the village, so I took us in the direction of one; after a few instances of “I don’t know where this goes, let’s find out”, we emerged on a road in the middle of a lake. Very lost, we stopped to take some photos, and a group of teenagers pulled up requesting selfies. We obliged, and in return, asked for directions. James pulled up his sleeve to show them his tattoo. “O dau?” we asked, “Where?” pointing at the image of Thanh Giong. They laughed and gestured towards a mountain across the lake. We repeated this scenario several more

times, with some farmers on the side of the road who thought we were hilarious, a couple of women who made us coffee at a roadside stand across from a military base in the middle of active target practice, and a construction worker who barely wanted to give us the time of day. We finally pulled up at an ornate archway that led up the mountain, and parked at a large pagoda complex at the top of the road.

Thanh Giong Inside, we found an enormous Buddha statue, towers of Choco-Pies at his feet in offering. Stairs behind the pagoda led up the mountain; as we climbed into the forest, they rose up in front of us at a steep incline. “It’s

the stairway to heaven!” James exclaimed, convinced we were on the right path to Thanh Giong. It took us about half an hour with our smokers’ lungs, but at least the air we were panting was fresh (sometimes, in the city, it’s easy to forget what trees smell like). When we reached the top, I was expecting pay-off. What we found was pavement. Pro-tip: If you don’t fancy a gruelling hike up thousands of stairs, it is possible to drive up the road to Thanh Giong’s monument. (But it’s definitely not as rewarding). There’s also a place where the stairs split; the steep way straight ahead leads to the road, and the less intense path to the right leads directly to Thanh Giong.

A quick jaunt up the road to the right took us to the highest point of the mountain, where a massive bronze statue of our saint on horseback stood, leaping toward heaven. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side, and the fog covered what I’m sure is a stunning view. With the sun sinking, we picked our way carefully down the stairs again, the faint sound of chants drifting towards us through the trees. A procession was underway; all the women of the monastery were slowly circling the Buddha, singing between the rhythmic tones of a giant gong. On the way home, we made a rookie mistake and ended up on a highway going east. Choose your on-ramps carefully,

because it’s likely you won’t be able to turn around for a long, long time. And in our case, you might get a flat tyre on an expressway with no exit, and have to push your bike for several kilometres to find a way out. Lesson learnt; when in doubt, just follow the signs back to Hanoi.

Getting There From West Lake, head towards the airport across the Nhat Tan Bridge. Take a right when the road splits, onto QL2A, then a left onto QL3. Drive through Soc Son Town, take a left on Duong Len Den Giong.

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Hanoi

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Essentials

MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281

elitefitness.com.vn

AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762

agsfourwinds.com

A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805

santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495

nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515

200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass. ZENITH YOGA & CAFÉ

zenithyogavietnam.com

The oldest and most professional Yoga Studio in Hanoi, Zenith offers a vast variety of classes and levels in Iyengar, Hatha, Vinyasa, Ashtanga and Pilates while also offering Restorative, Prenatal & Postnatal Yoga, Meditation sessions, and Kundalini classes. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, clothes and yoga props, as well as a café serving up the homemade vegetarian meals, cakes and coffee.

VIETCLIMB

SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT

vietclimb.vn

Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned,

SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147

bosua.vn

HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757

hanoisport.vn

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 62 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem; Tel: 0904 356 561

M M M

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185

BOO SKATESHOP

YOGA & NUTRITION

studio5.vn

CLIMBING CENTRE

6273 3095

BIG C SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

score-tech.net

Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.

UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING

ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS

19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)

SUPERMARKETS

13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305

umove.com.vn

222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem

bigc.vn CITIMART Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999

FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem

INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem

METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617

PHOTO BY JESSE MEADOWS

metro.com.vn

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Hanoi On the Town

BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS +84 BAR CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem

facebook.com/bar84hanoi

Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.

EDEN HANOI

MADAKE

SIDEWALK HANOI

THE UNICORN BAR

OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE

BAR & EVENT SPACE

DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE

COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE

End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho

facebook.com/edengargen

When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list. ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE

88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029

88group.vn

A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN

Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar.

FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211

linkhanoi.com

A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging.

BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI

15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat. CAMA ATK MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970

cama-atk.com

With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170

facebook.com/hrc.hanoi

Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS CZECH MICROBREWERY

1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088 LE SOLEIL DDJ BAR / LATE NIGHT

284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993

facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi

Open late, Le Soleil has become a place to be seen, especially if you’re the dancing-into-the-early hours kind of person. Sofas, bar stools, menus on blackboards and neon-coloured lighting, there’s a grunge-style feel to the place, but it’s an ambience that Le Soleil’s customers seem to love. Has a pizza joint, Paolo and Chi, upstairs.

81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665

facebook.com/madakehanoi

With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint. MAO’S RED LOUNGE LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers. PHUC TAN LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR

5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches. RED RIVER TEA ROOM LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho

facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room

Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from nearby favourites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly. ROCKSTORE LIVE MUSIC BAR

61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087

facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi

Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.

199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi

A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty. SPY BAR HOLE IN THE WALL

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for. TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB

Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333

facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu

The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too. THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR

7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116

republic.vn

A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE

19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901

therooftop.vn

The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience.

2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL

114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6675 9838

tracyspub.com

A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922

vuvuzela.com.vn

When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.

CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with imported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE

2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240

coffeebean.com

This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee

BAR STOOL TADIOTO

PHOTO BY FUJI PHAM

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

he best bars in any town are defined by character. Tadioto has character to get your creative cogs turning. Situated just east of Hoan Kiem Lake, it’s the perfect setting for a small group to share ideas or to catch up with old friends over a glass of whisky. Just look out for the large red gates on the corner of Tong Dan and Ly Dao Thanh. Owner Nguyen Qui Duc, former journalist and a creative survivor of Hanoi’s bar scene, has modelled a unique and original atmosphere characterised by a dim, metallic décor balanced with edgy lighting — the lamps around Tadioto’s tables were hand-crafted by Duc himself using recycled motorbike parts and other treasures.

Ramping it Up Tadioto’s character isn’t just built by the décor; the people that keep the seats warm

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come in many guises from artists and journalists to architects and diplomats. They’re a different clientele. “We’re not a rowdy bar — people come to exchange ideas. People sit and talk a lot here,” says Duc. Something for creative lovers to mark on their map, weekly live jazz has recently become a fixture, and if this plus the venue’s artistic design wasn’t enough, they’ll soon be running Sunday discussion groups on topics such as art, music and literature, and airing the occasional film screening. Tadioto isn’t so much concerned with complicated cocktails and fancy delicacies. The daytime food menu is refreshingly simple while the bar is stocked with a diverse selection of the usual suspects alongside an impressive collection of single malts and a growing presence of bourbon. That said, it’s not to be taken as a whisky bar. A bottled beer will set you back VND40,000 while a draught costs

VND50,000. If you’re looking to experiment with the whisky collection then a glass of blended Scotch, neat, is a reasonable VND100,000 or if you prefer a single malt, a glass of a well known 10-year-old comes in at VND150,000. There are also some lesser-seen brands that include Japanese whisky, with shots starting at VND130,000. Vodkas, gins and rum range in the same area of price depending on quality, and if you’re more prone to a glass of wine, a bottle of mid-range red or white averages around VND450,000. What makes Tadioto stand out is the type of people who frequent it. It’s certainly a place to go if you’re looking to meet interesting people from backgrounds too diverse to list here — as Duc says: “Any one night it’s just what table you sit at”. — Billy Gray Tadioto is located at 24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and stays open until late

Hanoi On the Town

and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho

congcaphe.com

With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE

89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI

Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

highlandscoffee.com.vn

With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY

22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071

joma.biz

Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt.

HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ

PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE

16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times. TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR

VIETNAMESE CAFÉ

43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.

and pan-Asian mains.

MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too.

Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

MAISON DE TET DÉCOR

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB

LIFESTYLE CAFE

CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

tet-lifestyle-collection.com

facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub

facebook.com/manzihanoi

COURTYARD CAFE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, aircon dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the all-day breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE

2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN

5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;

36 Tu Hoa, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 9722 On-site coffee roasting, comfortable seating arrangements, rustic style furnishings and décor, and a focus on healthy, non-processed foods. This is the concept behind Maison de Tet Décor, and it’s a popular one, too, as witnessed by the size of the clientele. Also run occasional farmers’ markets.

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117

A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.

MOC CAFE

YOLO

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL

FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE

14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western

32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh

facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops

Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly

quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com

A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.

EAT AL FRESCO’S AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155

alfrescogroup.com

CHOPS GOURMET BURGER & CRAFT BEER

4 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6292 1044

chopsvietnam.com

Finally Hanoi has a dedicated gourmet burger joint, and this West Lake eatery with its fan-cooled atmosphere get it just about right. This is comfort food at its finest. Served up with locally brewed craft beer, and this one’s a bit of a winner. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL

3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098

facebook.com/cousins.hanoi

A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN

AMATO TAPAS / FRENCH CUISINE

1A Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01227 367470 Located next to Binh Minh Jazz Club, Amato is a fusion tapas bar by night and a French restaurant during the day. Tiny, hip and yet surprisingly spacious, Amato offers an international dining and drinking experience in the heart of Hanoi.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224

aulacdobrazil.com

A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.

ASAHI SUSHI SUSHI RESTAURANT

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945

asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD

129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment.

18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available. DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831

daluva.com

A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719

Dons-bistro.com

This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list.

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COFFEE CUP GARDENISTA CAFE

PHOTOS BY FUJI PHAM

hoosing between the matcha latte and spicy mango tea is a tough call, but it’s not the most difficult decision you’ll face at Gardenista Cafe. Rather, it’s deciding which Instagram filter to slap on that photo of an old-fashioned bathtub — brimming with plants — that has been outfitted with wooden planks and repurposed into a table. The quirky greenhouse-inspired cafe in Ba Dinh District is one of the most photogenic cafés that Hanoi has to offer. Its interior is filled with cutesy decorations that seem to suggest someone just discovered Pinterest’s DIY section and went wild. Beerbottle chandeliers and pinecone mobiles dangle above patrons’ heads. Wooden chairs, haphazardly painted with strips of blue and green, look like they were lifted from some hip farmer’s tool shed. A polished dining table holds miniature terrariums, potted plants and knickknacks, like a Totoro figurine tugging a cart with a tiny succulent inside. And, of course, it wouldn’t be a garden

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without some green. Dozens of hanging plants line the fully windowed front wall, which looks out onto a sizable outdoor patio and bar. The staff takes turns caring for their neediest patrons, carefully spritzing them with water in between orders. The concrete walls and floor give it an urban basement feel, but the presence of so many wooden decorations and plants brings it back to earth. At 1pm on a weekday, half of the café is filled with groups of friends quietly chatting, and the other half is sporting headphones and plugging away on laptops. Judging by the many Instagram photos tagged at Gardenista, it is also popular among Vietnamese fashion bloggers.

Indoor Peace, Outdoor Charm The café is in a gated area, but for those seeking complete peace and quiet away from the busy Kim Ma Street, grabbing an indoor table is essential. All orders must be placed at the outdoor bar, which slows down the flow of service, but it’s not a deal breaker. At night, the outdoor patio becomes

more charming, illuminated by lights strung between the trees. While the allure of Gardenista is its escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, it’s also practical where it counts. All the concrete tree planters on the outdoor patio have electrical outlets. The menu boasts a large selection of reasonably priced drinks, including both Western and Vietnamese coffees, hot chocolate, fruit lassis, fresh juices and smoothies. It offers standard fast-food fare and, for those with a sweet tooth, ice cream and a few varieties of cake. The cappuccino (VND46,000) was smooth and frothy, and came with a soft cookie that was perfect for dunking. I also tried a slice of chocolate Kahlua cake (VND34,000), which had a light and airy flavour and texture, similar to mousse. The chocolate garnish on top was a nice touch. It’s easy to get lost in the green, serene atmosphere of Gardenista. Whether you’re alone or with company, it’s the perfect café for writing, lounging or making your Instagram followers jealous. — Emily Petsko Gardenista is at 50 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Hanoi

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THE THERAPIST AFTER THE AFFAIR

Dear Douglas, I read the recent letter to you from a woman who has been cheated on by her husband. I am a man who has also cheated on my wife and children, putting our family at risk of breaking up. I felt your advice was quite good, but it is now 10 months since my infidelity was revealed and it does not feel like we have made any progress toward reconciliation. Just last week my wife went into a rage accusing me of continuing to lie and hide things from her. She checks my phone constantly and suspects anything that doesn’t seem clear to her. She continues threatening to divorce me. I have done all I can think of to make amends. I have accepted her anger toward me. I have apologized and confessed to my shame and guilt. I have participated in all of the family events and feel like I am always available for her wants and needs. I am trying to make amends. I feel like I have reached the end of my capacity to tolerate her anger and inability to move on. Maybe she is right, we will have to divorce, but I desperately do not want that. What can I do? — Helpless Dear Helpless, I have talked about the healing process and how couples can get through these

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extremely difficult situations where trust is broken, where anger becomes intense and where the imagination becomes influenced by fear and mistrust. Your example is one where the process of healing can become stuck and therefore frustratingly painful for a long period of time. Sometimes people (in this case your wife) believe that if they just know the entire truth in all its details they will be able to trust again. It is a false belief. Going into the details of what you have done will not help your wife come to a resolution. She will have to let go (or reduce the influence) of the past in order for the two of you to move on. In the beginning of this process it was important that you were as transparent as possible and that you accept responsibility for what happened. At this point it no longer serves the process to continue to look at text messages or for other “hidden” things. You can now set a limit and say, “enough is enough”. The same thing is true of anger. Righteous indignation is a kind of anger that keeps people stuck and unable to resolve the past. Because someone is right does not mean they have permission to use that anger abusively or as a demonstration of power or as a punishment. You can now let her know it is not acceptable. I am not saying she doesn’t still have anger. I am saying that

BY DOUGLAS HOLWERDA

the intensity of that anger and the behaviour influenced by that anger is her problem and it is not helpful to tolerate it. It is not unusual for someone who is feeling guilt or shame to feel “helpless” or unable to defend themselves against intrusive or abusive behaviour. Humility is the condition where we accept responsibility for what we have done, we apologize and we try to make amends. It is empowering and allows us to move on. Humiliation is a condition where we internalize our shame and accept abuse, feeling we deserve it. It is a place of disempowerment, weakness and stuck-ness. Your wife cannot stop her abuse on her own. She needs you to set a limit and to regain the respect you can have for yourself. It will help her to contain her anger and to trust again. The mistakes we make are reflections of our human condition. With compassion for ourselves and others we can renew the bonds we have with those we love. I hope you will not continue to feel “helpless”. I wish you well, — Douglas Do you have a question you would like Douglas’s help with? You can email him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal details will not be printed

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991

elgaucho.com.vn

With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN

59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959

foodshop45.com

Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL

up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC

5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE

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With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286

greentangerinehanoi.com

A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving

An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list. JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN

Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 8325

alfrescosgroup.com

Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World.

NORTH INDIAN

10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668

indiapalacehn@vnn.vn

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor.

TOP-END GRILL

JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588

alfrescogroup.com

J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL

G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388

KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337

koto.com.au

The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y

labadiane-hanoi.com

On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia.

namese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LINGUINI FINI ITALIAN-AMERICAN

LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO

44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246

thbc.vn

Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalan-style desserts. Closed Mondays.

36-38 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3266 8968

linguinifini.com/en/hanoi

With branches in Hong Kong and Manilla, the contemporary Italian-American Linguini Fini pulls no punches with its first outlet in Vietnam. Sleek modern décor, high quality cuisine, home-made pasta, reasonable prices and dishes cooked up with the freshest ingredients available are part of the deal, as are some damn fine pizzas. LUNA D’AUTUNNO

LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509

MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN

23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven. MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE

Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

CLASSIC ITALIAN

LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN

5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950

lasalsa-hanoi.com

A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral.

27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338

lunadautunno.vn

This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list.

JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors.

dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended.

LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317

PAN-CHINESE

Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Viet-

fortuna.vn

verticale-hanoi.com

MILLENIUM-CAFÉ DES ARTS PAN-FRENCH

11 Hang Hanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207

cafe-des-arts.com

A contemporary and chic three-storey restaurant with a terrace and views over one of Hanoi’s best-known alleys. Serves up quality French cuisine such as: snails, foie gras, lobster, scallops, chateaubriand and tournedos Rossini. Does an excellent set menu and also has a daily specials board.

Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333

MOOSE AND ROO

Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus,

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever

CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

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TOP EATS HEMISPHERES

f this restaurant had a mascot, it would be butter. “When in doubt, just chuck some butter in it,” laughs Chef Patrick Morris, and he’s right. Rich and heavy, every dish wraps you in the comfort of American-style steakhouse decadence. Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Hemispheres is a classy establishment with a contemporary edge. It’s the kind of place where the waiting staff takes your order with a gentle smile, while you enjoy the fresh view of the garden and West Lake; the food is served before you even notice. The vaulted wood ceiling makes the space feel grandiose, and every table is surrounded by plush armchairs, so you can eat steak like a king. And if you require entertainment, you can watch your dinner being made through massive glass windows that encircle the open

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kitchen. Yet not once do you lose the sense that everything here, from the cuisine to the décor, is located in the modern day.

Surf and Lots of Turf The first thing Hemispheres wants you to see, though, is their steak. In a case by the door, various cuts are on display. From Black Angus to Wagyu to Nebraska prime, you’ve got options. The restaurant even boasts the only Hitachi beef in Hanoi, straight from Ibaraki prefecture in Japan. The characteristics of a steak, Chef Patrick explains, are determined by the marbling, or fat content, in the beef. This marbling ranges from grades 1 through 12, with higher marbling resulting in richer, more buttery steaks. “It just melts in your mouth,” he says of those on the higher end of the scale.

For Chef Patrick, butter plus meat equals a brand-new menu for Hemispheres — and an extensive one at that. “I kept it pretty simple, with flavours that guests would know,” he explains. Modest for a 29-year-old who was ranked among the top 10 best chefs in Asia in the 2014 San Pellegrino International Chef Challenge. Originally from Australia, Patrick started his career as an apprentice at the age of 15, working resorts in Queensland. After moving to the south of Thailand to gain international experience, he found a home at Hemispheres eight months ago. His menu is centred around surf-and-turf, with a set menu for 120 grams of beef starting at VND1.5 million, and seafood options starting at VND1.3 million. But the choices don’t stop there; Hemispheres has all kinds

PHOTOS BY JULIE VOLA

of meats to mix and match, so we decided to try some of their more exotic varieties.

Bring on the Sauce We started with Patrick’s take on a French bouillabaisse, a traditional Provencal fish stew (VND290,000). Scallops, shrimp, salmon, and clams from Nha Trang and Hai Phong are poached in a rich soup of saffron, fennel and tomatoes, and finished with — you guessed it — butter. The result is a savoury, comforting starter that warms your insides and satisfies your umami sensors. Our next dish was duck confit, topped with French foie gras and served with brioche. The meat, cooked for four hours in duck fat, is rich and buttery, contrasted by a tart black cherry topping and red wine sauce. Patrick is serious about his sauces

— some cook for up to three days before they’re ready for the plate. Continuing our tour of Hemispheres’ extensive list of meats, we sunk our forks into herb-crusted lamb from New Zealand (VND800,000), topped with roasted asparagus, baby carrots, beets and garlic. Again, the sauce made the dish; a thick, creamy red wine and Dijon mustard reduction, slowly simmered with lamb neck bones, perfect for soaking into some house walnut bread. Last but not least, I tried my first bite of venison tenderloin (VND950,000). Served almost rare due to its very low fat content, the meat was drizzled with a truffle jus and topped with juicy wild mushrooms, roasted baby carrots, asparagus, and slowroasted shallots. It was, needless to say, a delicious introduction.

There’s only one thing to finish off a meal of meat and butter — chocolate. Aptly named the ‘Chocolate Extravaganza’ (VND160,000), this dish consists of a lattice-work chocolate ball surrounding a chef’s selection of treats inside. When served, hot melted chocolate is drizzled over the structure until it cracks and breaks, exposing a core of mint ice cream, strawberries, and crumbles of crispy chocolate wafer. It’s interactive, fun to watch, and sure to induce a serious food coma. We left Hemispheres with eyes halfclosed, stomachs full and smiles wide. — Jesse Meadows Hemispheres is on the ground floor of the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel, Ngo 1, Au Co, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at sheratonhanoi.com

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MEDICAL BUFF ROAD ACCIDENTS

e are continually dealing with patients who have been in traffic accidents. Some 95% of our traffic accidents are as a result of motorbikes or scooters. Vietnam has very different road safety rules compared to your host country. Be sure to follow the road safety rules you use at home and make sure family and children always look both ways when crossing the street; this is really important when the traffic flows in both directions. Try to remember to always put on your safety belt when you are in the car and if you ride motorbikes, helmets are a must. We know riding a bike will increase the likelihood that you have an accident in Vietnam; we recently treated a young expat girl who drove her bike over a pot hole in the road which was deeper than she expected. Over the handle bars she went and subsequently crashed to the ground, with cuts and a broken arm. She was lucky, as people around her got her to the side of the road as quickly as possible and then she was given immediate medical assistance. Doctors talk about the ‘golden hour’ — a euphemism for the time after an accident when medical assistance is needed. The ‘golden hour’ can be a few minutes to several hours from the moment of injury, depending on the severity of the accident; this is the window of opportunity for medical intervention. Responding to an accident or pain is ‘time critical’ — there is no time to waste — but what should you do if you are at an accident, want to help, but medical assistance is too far away?

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Calling for Help Always make the call for help immediately; or if you can’t, then ask some one else to do it for you. Make sure the following information is given to the medical services: — Your telephone number (if you are cut off the emergency service will be able to contact you) — The location of the incident. Road names or numbers, landmarks, map reference, satnav positioning reference, etc. — Description of the incident, for example: “Motorcycle has hit a bus — the motorcyclist is not moving.” If it’s safe to proceed and you need to assist the victims who need help: Try to talk to those who are hurt. Don’t move them, as this could worsen their injuries. Movement is only recommended if the patient might be in more danger; electric wires, a possible fire or oncoming vehicles. Be calming and assure the victim that help is coming. You can also cover them with something warm if they need it, shade them from the sun, or just hold their hand. Remember, you’re not a medical professional (unless, of course, you are one!) So it’s not your job to treat major injuries — just try to keep victims safe until professional help arrives. The quiet casualties are probably the worst injured, however you will need to reassure the nervous, noisy ones that help is on the way.

Simple First Aid — Immediately look around for any

BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL

possible danger to yourself or other providers. — Don’t move casualties: You may cause further injury unless more imminent danger is possible to either the victim or yourself (electrical or fire hazard). — Check for breathing. If the casualty is not breathing, commence CPR. — Stop bleeding. Firm pressure on a wound will stem bleeding; do not remove any objects which have penetrated the body. — If an open bleeding fracture to a limb, apply tourniquet pressure above the injury to reduce blood loss. — Don’t give casualties anything to eat or drink. This can cause complications for medics and delay life-saving treatment.

Making a Difference Once you engage with the patient and start to help you must stay at the site until the Emergency Service team arrives and you will be able to provide information to them. While you are waiting, you may be instructed to perform any necessary treatments; CPR, bleeding control and choking can all be helped and your assistance can significantly impact the victim’s recovery. Being a First Aider has many benefits and regular First Aid Courses are always possible and can save lives. Dr. Brian McNaull is the Medical Director of Family Medical Practice Hanoi. For more advice on any medical topics, visit Family Medical Practice Hanoi on 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh or call (04) 3843 0748. FMP’s Ho Chi Minh City clinics are at Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1; 95 Thao Dien, Q2

Hanoi On the Town

changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL

The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470

mooseandroo.com

There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. NAMASTE HANOI

PANE E VINO

THE KAFE

PAN-ITALIAN

CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

facebook.com/panevinoHN

thekafe.vn

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080 Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. PIZZA 4P’S

namastehanoi.com

The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it. NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801

nineteen11.com.vn

Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.

GOURMET VIETNAMESE

4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337

hanoixua.vn/en

Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout.

WANNAWAFFLE WAFFLES

VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK

20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO

67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA

1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK) COM RANG DUA BO

pizza4ps.com

MIXED GLASS NOODLES

POTS ‘N PANS

Waffles, but not as you know it. Here it’s about taking this humble dish and recreating it in a contemporary environment in as many ways as is humanly possible. Ever had a matcha waffle? What about a waffle stuffed with cream cheese and smoked salmon? How about a banoffee pie or a pizza waffle? Wannawaffle serves up all these creations and much more. WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718

PHO CUON HUNG BEN

24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01208 034444 Famed for its home-made mozzarella and Japanese-inspired pizzas that break all the rules, the Hanoi outlet of Pizza 4P’s is as popular as its Saigon branch, a restaurant that has been greeted by accolades by all asunder. All pizzas are cooked in a woodfired oven and use fresh, local ingredients.

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204

potsnpans.vn

Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. SAINT HONORE BOULANGERIE / BISTRO

5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355

sainthonore.com.vn

This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times. THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ

OLD HANOI

Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.

BIT TET NGON SO 5

27 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem; 138 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; Unit 108, Indochina Plaza, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay

JAPANESE PIZZA JOINT

PAN-INDIAN

46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245

25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513

thecartfood.com

Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

facebook.com/wannawaffle

57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da MIEN TRON HANH 7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES

54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO

48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem

PHO CUON

26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh

wrap-roll.com

The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City. ZENITH VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT HOLISTIC VEGETARIAN

247Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561

zenithyogavietnam.com/zenith-cafe

A vegetarian and vegan café connected to Zenith Yoga that respects yoga philosophy. Simple living, mindful thinking and 100 percent natural ingredients, all the food here is served up without additional additives or MSG and using only fresh seasonal products. All dishes are made in house.

STREETFOOD

PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA

7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA

1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO

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44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem BANH DA TRON BANH DA TRON

6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho BANH MI 25 STREETSIDE BANH MI

152 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

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T R AN HUNG wordvietnam.com DAO | April 2016 Word | 153 Phan H

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Vietnam National Academy of Music

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Day Tripper HCMC / Business Buff / Body and Temple / The Gym Diaries / Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Amazing Grapes / Know Your City / Top Eats 1 / Top Eats 2 / A World of Good Photo by Kyle Phanroy 154 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

HCMC Essentials

BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ

223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1

phamngulao.abcbakery.co

Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.

HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY

harvestbaking.net

With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details. L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072

lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1

touslesjoursbakery.com

The background of this Korean bakery chain makes

pnc.com.vn

Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.

M M M VOELKER BAKERY

39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066

voelker-vietnam.com

French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

M M M

breadtalkvietnam.com

A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting.

Thanh Ton, Q1

BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1

fahasa.com

Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858 Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE

2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046

sbghcm.org

M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.

amchamvietnam.com

LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394

anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912

This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430

BAM SKATE SHOP

auschamvn.org

bbgv.org

CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754

canchamvietnam.org

Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922

nordcham.com

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045

pbgvn.com

SKATEWEAR / STREET

174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826

Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING

1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GINKGO

DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

PARKSON PLAZA

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING

10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928

ginkgo-vietnam.com

Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery. IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701

ipa-nima.com

LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

SHOPPING MALLS

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565

lusinespace.com

Exclusive labels, elegant and

SAIGON CENTRE

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

ZEN PLAZA

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

DAY TRIPPER: HCMC CAO MINH

A detour on the route to Mui Ne unveils a getaway only 40km from Saigon. Words and photos by Kyle Phanroy

was headed to Mui Ne on a road trip when a few friends asked us to join them for a night at a place called Cao Minh. The idea was to go camping and light up a barbecue at this self-styled ‘eco resort’ just over an hour from central Ho Chi Minh City. The only problem? We didn’t have any tents. Not that it mattered so much. It was just a question of authenticity. What we discovered felt like a forgotten oasis — run-down, under-maintained yet eerily beautiful. Our guess was that the owner — a well-known singer who gave his name to the resort — had not created the cash cow he had hoped for. So he took his finger off the pulse and rather than investing, kept the place running at a minimum cost.

156 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

A Failed Paradise? Operating Cao Minh on a budget means that all the lofty constructions — the swimming pools, jet skis and zip lines — have gone unused. The place even has a castlelike structure, suspension bridges and a waterfall. Once upon a time the ideas may have been sound. Perhaps they just weren’t executed properly. Yet the fact so much was not working was part of the charm. Due to our friends’ preferences, we ditched the idea of renting tents and ended up in a cabin that housed 10 people — it only cost around VND1 million. And while food and drink is sold on-site, we ended up bringing our own. It was cheaper and more fun, and being on a budget, it made a bit more sense. Back to that cabin. The accommodation is basic. Forget aircon — this place is

fan-cooled and at night, you’ll be sitting outdoors in the open air. So mosquito coils are a must. Surrounded by trees and water, after dark Cao Minh provides a sense of countryside isolation that makes it a perfect, if slightly run-down, getaway from the city. Daytime here is different. People from all around seem to descend on the resort. Fortunately it’s never too crowded, never too full of other people to intrude on your privacy. When we left I had one regret. I wish we had rented or brought some tents. It would have added to the experience. I also found myself thinking that with around US$100,000 (VND2.2 billion) worth of investment, you could make the place work again and return it to its former glory. It’s a nice thought.

Information Khu Du Lich Sinh Thai Cao Minh is at 547 Ap 2, Xa Vinh Tan, Vinh Cuu, Dong Nai. For further info call 0914 189121 or click on dulichcaominh.com. The resort is located to the northeast of Bien Hoa, close to Tri An Lake. To get there go down Highway 1A north out of Ho Chi Minh City and go through Bien Hoa. Turn left at Nga Ba Tri An (Tri An Junction) onto TL767. Follow the road for about 12km. Cao Minh is on the right hand side.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 157

BUSINESS BUFF DODGY EXPATS

ark my words you will see more dodgy expats in Vietnam in the coming years as it starts to become an even easier place to live for foreigners. Over my past 13 years as an expat and eight years in Vietnam I have met some of the best and worst of the expatriate community. Some examples of the ‘dodgy expat’ include; simultaneous multiple wives and children; abandoning long-term girlfriends who become pregnant; ripping off business partners, or plain old-fashioned dodgy drug dealing. This month I have made an easy checklist of how to spot a dodgy expat. While there may be some exceptions to my list, in general these are the tell-tale signs of who you are dealing with. If they hit on more than three of these be warned: they are probably ‘dodgy’.

No Paperwork. We all know some expats who have lived the expatriate lifestyle but have never had the legal paperwork to do so. No work permits, no tax code, not registered where they live etc. They come up with every imaginable reason why it’s better to fly under the radar, but at the end of the day the main reason is that they are dodgy. No Chamber Affiliation. Here is a great 158 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

way to meet some quality expats. Go to a chamber event — those that are members in general are far more professional and legit than those who are not members. Auscham, BBGV, AmCham, the Singapore Business Group, Nordcham, Eurocham, InCham — all super examples of great business network chambers to join.

@gmail or @hotmail for business. This is by far one of the best ways to spot a dodgy expat. It still amazes me that there are financial services “professionals” who offer advice on investment, insurance or property and yet have no business email account. If the business card has @gmail just turn and run. If it was accurate it would say @dodgy.

Change of Companies.

Many expat managers in Vietnam complain about how quickly Vietnamese change jobs and this is also a warning sign for expats. If the expat has changed companies every few months then there is a probably a problem with the person not the companies. Be warned — they could be dodgy.

Change of Social Group. I have met

a few expats over my time that change social/friendship groups on a regular basis. Over time I have realized it is not them

BY SHANE DILLON

meeting new and better friends, but old ones figuring out how dodgy they are and the expat having to move on to the next bunch of suckers. If someone is best buddies with a group one week and the worst of enemies the next, there is a good chance there is something dodgy going on.

No Charity Support. If you have been an expat for any length of time in a developing market, you should get behind at least one charity organization with at least social support if not financial. Next time you meet an expat ask them what charity they support, and get the inside scoop if they might be dodgy. Girly Bars. If the expat goes to girly bars a few nights every week, this means they need to pay people to hang out with them and pretend they are somewhat interesting while they get drunk. We all know the answer already — they’re dodgy. So the next time someone hands you a business card and offers you some advice, make a mental check with the above list. Who knows, it just might save you a lot of hassle down the road. Shane is an executive director of the Australian Chamber of Commerce. He can be contacted at shanedillon@pacificcross.com

sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA

AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn

TAILOR-MADE SHOES

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267 ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING

152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620

9am to 10pm PAPAYA

BUDGET CLOTHING

CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en

232 Bui Vien, Q1

LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485

saigoncookingclass.com

Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349

vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com

papaya-tshirt.com

CRAFTS & FURNITURE

T&V TAILOR

ATC FURNITURE

TAILORS

ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE

39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556

268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946

triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588

Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP

VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

KOREAN AIR koreanair.com

multinational cuisine days.

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

CORPORATE GIFTS AMBRIJ 14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364

ambrij.com

A one-stop-shop concept company providing marketing services including POSM, corporate gifts and luxury ranges of business gifts from international brands like Swarovski, Cerruti 1881, Nina Ricci, Christian Lacroix, Ungaro and more. Also do event management services.

COOKING CLASSES OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734

overlandclub.jp

The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and

atc-craft.com

AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023

austinhomeinteriors.com

This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS

175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543

chilai.com

This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408

8am to 9.30pm

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BODY

AND

TEMPLE

DIET RULES MADE TO BE BROKEN

verybody seems to have some go-to dieting rules when trying to lose unwanted pounds. You’ve probably heard all sorts of silly rules, maybe even followed them at some point. Let’s weigh up a few common diet rules and see if there is any truth in them. Most commonly held beliefs about dieting won’t help you lose weight or make dieting any easier. Here are eight food rules you can ignore:

1) “Eating at night will pile on the pounds”. Putting on fat has more to do

with the total calories and quality of food you consume over a 24-hour period or over a week. The time of day you eat calories doesn’t matter as much as what you eat and how much compared to your activity levels.

2) “Eat five meals per day at regular times”. The best approach is to

eat when you’re hungry, not when the clock says it’s time to eat. Everyone’s metabolism is different and there is no golden rule to stick to. If you are not active then eating five meals per day is a mistake, as it will elevate insulin levels that can cause a fat storing state instead of a fat burning state.

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BY PHIL KELLY

3) “Dietary fat keeps you feeling full 7) “Fat is fattening”. Fat is an eslonger, so you’ll eat less”. This rule sential part of your diet and contains es-

came to existence due to the fact that fat takes longer to digest, but it will not help you control your appetite. Foods containing protein are more likely to fight off hunger the longest.

sential vitamins and nutrients our bodies require to maintain health. Furthermore, certain good fats actually turn off the fatstoring genes and turn on the fat-burning ones.

4) “When you blow your diet, you might as well wait until the next day to get back on track”. Nothing

8) “All calories are equal”. Fortunately, experts have proved this false. We need to take the focus off calories and place it firmly on nutrient density. Different foods affect the body in very different ways depending what nutrients, or lack of, are consumed with those calories. In the end, nutrition experts say, many of the food and dieting rules we hold dear are meant to be broken. There is really only one rule that we should all try to uphold. That is to always eat “real food” and therefore stay away from processed foodstuffs. Your body will generally automatically regulate your weight in a healthy range if not clogged up with toxins and chemicals. Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com)

could be farther from the truth — try to get right back on track with your next meal.

5) “Refusing food at a party or when visiting is rude”. This olden-day

way of thinking should have no place in the modern era. It is now socially acceptable to turn down food you know is not healthy or will hinder your weight-loss goals. People are more likely to compliment you on your will power.

6) “Skipping a meal every now and then will help you lose”. Skip-

ping a meal means you will be even hungrier at the next meal, where you are likely to then overeat. This can also affect your metabolism by causing it to slow down.

HCMC Essentials

FEELING TROPIC FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above. MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-creations.org NGUYEN FRERES NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS

2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459

8am to 8pm

MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110

mekong-quilts.org

Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114

xedapcaocap.com

Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs. THE BIKE SHOP CYCLING & ACCESSORIES

250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405

thebikeshopvn.com

The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.

M M M NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115

nhaxinh.com

REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190

DENTAL CLINICS ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800

accadent.com

remixdeco.com

THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS

ELITE DENTAL GROUP.

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643

57A, Tran Quoc Thao, Q3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3933 3737

THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE

Elite Dental is an international and well-equipped clinic, which provides specialized dental services including ALL-ON-4 Implants, ALL-ON-6 implants, dental implants, prosthodontics, Invisalign & orthodontics. Luxury design and our dental experts will bring you an extremely comfortable experience.

EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788

thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn

CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM

firstBIKE.com.vn

FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development. JETT CYCLES OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM

384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3

jett-cycles.com

The showroom home of Jett

info@elitedental.com.vn elitedental.com.vn

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high

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HCMC Essentials

skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.

at 165 Calmette, Q1, HCMC

MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC

DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399

STARLIGHT CLINIC

DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2

starlightdental.net

Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 Thao Dien Clinic, 27 Nguyen Ba Lan, Q.2, Tel: (08) 35 191 777

westcoastinternational.com

An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS

Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100

maplehealthcare.net

Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service.

M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431

cthomasgallery.com

Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-andcoming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade. Now has a second newer gallery

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CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER

dogmacollection.com

The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105

classicfinefoods.com

Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn

Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.

MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565

meatworksasia.com

Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.

PHUONG HA SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059

san-art.org

San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

GROCERIES & LIQUOR

GROCERY & DELI

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630

Annam-gourmet.com

Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town.

astere@hotmail.fr

ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353

SAIGON RAIDERS

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038

Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7

saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com

deepteshgill@gmail.com

SPORTS — GENERAL

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090

samie.cashmiri@gmail. com

saigonhash.com

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com

GROCERS

58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products. THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET

CRICKET

richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com

galeriequynh.com

In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

SPORTS

15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824

sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010

suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034

npasifali@hotmail.com

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598

manish@ambrij.com

FOOTBALL & RUGBY VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.

AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899

James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7

Saigon-ultimate.com

X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794

xrockclimbing.com

HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671

avedaherbal@gmail.com CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926

catmocspa.com

Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625

Conceptcoiffure.vn

Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon. FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827

famenails.com

GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368

glowsaigon.com

Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area. HAIR BAR

JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737

Jasminespa.vn

Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575

spatropic.com

Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930

www.acc.vn

ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.

CONTEMPORARY SALON

68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108

hairbar.vn

A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188

Indochine-spa.com.vn

Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759

americaneyecentervn.com

American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366

cmi-vietnam.com

This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000

vietnammedicalpractice.com

Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500

fvhospital.com

International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167

fvhospital.com

State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068

hanhphuchospital.com

Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1

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HCMC Essentials

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER EASTERN MEDICINE

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424

internationalsos.com

The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999

sianclinic.com

The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990

stamfordskin.com

Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE

187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545

victoriavn.com

Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

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INSURANCE PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 81-83-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908

pacificcross.com.vn

Pacific Cross Vietnam recently changed names, from Blue Cross Vietnam, to align with their regional sister companies. Together they form the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience providing health and travel insurance to people who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. Contact them now for a free quote. IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362

insuranceinasia.com

Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998

libertyinsurance.com.vn

International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. NOAH JAMES INSURANCE AGENCY Mobile: (1) 617 676 7858

noahjamesinsurance.com Skype: jp.global

A full service broker offering expatriates and local Vietnamese customized solutions from highly rated insurers for life, health, travel, as well as speciality cover for student travel, medevac, international marine, extreme athletics and adventure. For details contact: james@noahjamesinsurance.com TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367

ten-pac.com

A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833/34/35/36

theabcis.com

Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British Government Inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8% of schools worldwide. ABCIS is accredited by CIE, AQA, the Education Development Trust and members of COBIS and FOBISIA. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040

aisvietnam.com

The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU 1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804 etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an Inquire-ThinkLearn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children co-construct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life. BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335

bisvietnam.com

Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school

KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490

dancentervn.com

Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780

helenekling.com

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700

Inspirato.edu.vn

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691

Minhnguyenpiano.com

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679

paa.com.vn

Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360

Saigonponyclub.com

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100

saigonsportsacademy.com

International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846

vin-space.com

to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam. CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456

KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944

kidsclubsaigon.com

Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering creative play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081

cis.edu.vn

The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

ishcmc.com

HCMC’s most established international school offers three International Baccalaureate programmes for students from two to 18 years old. ISHCMC will be launching a new secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theatre, NBA-sized basketball courts and a 25m competitive swimming pool.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY — AMERICAN ACADEMY 16 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100

aavn.edu.vn

ISHCMC — American Academy is a U.S. curriculum secondary school for students aged 11 to 18 years old. Early university credits, a 1:1 University Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program set our graduates on the road to 100% acceptance rate at overseas universities and a US$1 million scholarship fund.

based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch.

saigonkidskindergarten.com

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 2222 7788/99

issp.edu.vn

Vietnam’s only international school offering a U.S. curriculum for children aged 18 months to 11 years old. With 100% English language immersion, a library containing over 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students achieving above grade level English, ISSP students are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or ISHCMC - American Academy.

EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS) 730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257

eishcmc.com

The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others. MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639

montessori.edu.vn

Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122

renaissance.edu.vn

Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum

SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students. SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901

ssis.edu.vn

Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels. SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827

saigonstarschool.edu.vn

Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236

smartkidsinfo.com

This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223

tas.edu.vn

Accredited by the Western Association of Schools and Colleges (WASC), TAS represents 20 nationalities and provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous performance standards and

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 165

THE GYM DIARIES PART 6

Struggling to get in shape, Owen Salisbury tries another tack and gets himself down to the doctor. As he discovers, nothing is ever straightforward

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BY OWEN SALISBURY

he nurse gestures at my pants. Her English is limited but her meaning clear. I hesitate and she makes another pulling motion. One bed over, a young man strokes a woman’s hand. She moans softly. There are no screens. My mind floating in 10 different directions, I bare my ass. She rolls me onto my side, swipes my flank with iodine and jabs the needle in. The pain is fleeting. The confusion isn’t.

Facing the Unexpected This month’s column won’t have much to do with the gym. I never expected my life to tilt so sharply, but who does? As much as I had expectations, I thought this would be a straightforward column; the diary of a guy in his mid-to-late 30s trying to get some basic fitness back. I thought my health would improve, and it has. I thought I’d gain muscle, which I have. I thought I’d lose weight… still trying. But as I mentioned last month, things never quite gelled. And life is never straightforward. At the advice of my trainer, Dan, I went and got my testosterone levels tested. He’d been through it, and my general malaise looked all too familiar to him. Though still too early to be certain, it looks like this change will be for the good. It has

PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

also revealed new battles, new challenges that won’t make their way into these pages. This is new for me, and I’ve struggled a lot. Should I be totally honest and open about all this? Forget the column; this is my life and the internet is forever.

Answers Lead to Questions A blood test I took last week shows that I have low testosterone, approximately half of the lowest amount considered acceptable for a man my age. If I want to feel normal I will be on hormone replacement therapy (HRT) for the foreseeable future. A needle in the ass, twice a week, forever. The other unexpected result is that I probably have some form of anaemia. Is it benign? How long has it been going on? What’s caused it? How do I get better? The implications are only beginning to sink in. How much will my health revolve around these two shots? How much will my life? Will I be able to travel all the places I want to travel? Will I be able to take needles and steroids to, say, Europe? Japan? China? Getting serious about my health was the impetus behind this whole experience, behind spending thousands of dollars on a personal trainer. If this therapy works, then believe me, the money is well spent — and I have to commend trainer Daniele Morretti for his sharp judgment. Having

lived through it himself, he spotted it fairly quickly, but it took a while for him to be certain enough to offer specific advice.

When Your Number Comes Up But as I wrote last month, if you’re a man and you begin to experience lethargy, lack of motivation, lack of libido, weight gain, muscle loss, depression, anxiety, you should get your hormone levels checked. If you’ve ever had a head injury (as I have) or testicle injuries (thanks, mixed martial arts and random crazy girls!) then you’re far more at risk for low testosterone levels. All told, as many as one-third of us deal with this, wittingly or not. One in three. My number just came up. Women, too, need to specifically check their hormone levels. I urge you all to take stock. If you think something isn’t working, if you just don’t feel right, talk to the experts. Get a second opinion. Get tests. Knowing is always better, because then you can do something.

A Technical Success Next month, I should be able to tell you if the treatment is working. So far I feel nothing, but I’ve had only my first injection. Next month, I should have answers to some of these questions, and I should know where matters are headed. It will be a fitting way to close this column; I set out to change my life, after all.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 167

HCMC Essentials

a variety of academic offerings. Runs advanced placement courses and university credit courses through their partnership with Missouri State University, as well as an Intensive ESL Program for English Language Learners.

Probably the best-known motorbike rental joint in town with over 200 bikes and a range of models and makes. Rents by the day or by the month. Call or check the website for details. Also does visa extensions.

M M M PROPERTY RENTALS CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694

easysaigon.com

The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700

namhouse.com.vn

Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales. RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855

residentvietnam.com

SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282

snap.com.vn

Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 216/4 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 580800

thenesthousing.com

Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

M M M MOTORBIKES CHI’S CAFÉ RENTALS

185/30 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0903 643446

chiscafe.com

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SAIGON BIKE RENTALS Tel: 0972 451273

nga.natalie@gmail.com saigonbikerentals.com

Rents out a range of models including Honda Waves, Yamaha Nouvos, Classicos, Luvias, SYM Attilas and Excels. Call for details and prices. SAIGON SCOOTER CENTRE RENTALS / CLASSIC SCOOTERS

77a Hanoi Highway, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 013690

saigonscootercentre.com

Just relocated to its new home in District 2, Saigon Scooter Centre is more than just the place to go for all your classic scooter needs. Also does accessories, quality imported helmets and bike rentals.

M M M RECRUITMENT & HR ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430

adecco.com.vn

Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

RELOCATION AGENTS

AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071

agsfourwinds.com

A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220

alliedpickfords.com

With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services. ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799

asiantigers-mobility.com

Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-to-door moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations. JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655

jvkasia.com

Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.

Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

hr2b.com

vieclambank.com

VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373

vietnamworks.com

The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.

logicalmoves.net

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065

santaferelo.com

SERVICED APARTMENTS DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678

the-ascott.com

Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888

intercontinental.com/saigonres

Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111

norfolkmansion.com.vn

Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111

Riverside-apartments.com

Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle. SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288

sherwoodresidence.com

Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922

somerset.com

Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi

TATTOO ARTISTS With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

EXILE INK 608

57 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6675 6956

exileinkvietnam.com SAIGON BODY ART

135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311

saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090

tattoovietnam.com

SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net

SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339

xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838

tattoosaigon.com

TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383

xamphunnghethuat. com

Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as CGV, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com

Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.

CINEBOX cinebox.vn

LOTTE CINEMA

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521

HEALTH CLUB & GYM

17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and sauna. Has a small but consistent membership. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms. THE LANDMARK CLUB GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176

thelandmarkvietnam.com BODY AND MIND

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326

cyril-and-you.com

This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.

In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas. VERTICAL ACADEMY CLIMBING GYM

Truc Duong, Q2, Tel: 0966 920612

facebook.com/vertical.academy.vn

A bouldering gym and pro climbing wall replete with a showroom and café offers something that this area has never experienced before, a place to climb. Has a number of climbing sections, runs training courses and also sells daily climbing passes for VND150,000 (for a 10-visit pass pay VND1 million).

VETERINARY CLINICS ANIMAL DOCTORS INTERNATIONAL 1 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2. (08) 6260 3980

VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168

vlstudies.com

Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

SPORTS GARMENTS

animaldoctors.vn

Offers the very highest levels of compassionate, competent and professional veterinary medicine and surgery to all pets in Ho Chi Minh City with international veterinary surgeons. Upholding international standards, the team works tirelessly to help clients with the support of a dedicated surgical suite, digital X-Ray and comprehensive diagnostic facilities.

VIETNAMESE CLASSES VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771

SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588

score-tech.net

vietnameselanguagegarden. com

lottecinemavn.com

NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)

GALAXY CINEMA

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567

galaxycine.vn

GENERAL FITNESS

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672

nutrifort.com

A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals.

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451

idecaf.gov.vn

CGV CINEMAS

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 2222; Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh, Tel: (08) 6297 1981; Level 2, Thao Dien Mall, 12 Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 3000; Level 5, SC VivoCity, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 3775 0555; Level 7, Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 2222 0388

SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com

Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

cgv.vn

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BAR STOOL LA HABANA

12-year veteran of the Saigon scene, La Habana maintains its charming, Spanish-terraceinspired premises in District 1. Any night of the week, just off the main drag of Hai Ba Trung and along Cao Ba Quat, you’ll hear live music floating from its cavernous entertainment area. On the Thursday night we visited, it was ballad night, and a regular band from the Philippines were filling the place. Stepping inside, you feel instantly at home. That’s because there’s a natural warmth to the La Habana front bar you can’t deny, especially at night. In addition, there’s not a hint of the pretention you’ll find at Saigon’s newest range of self-styled VIP entertainment venues, only a relaxed, comfortable vibe and a diverse range of regulars happy to get involved in actual conversation. It’s just the way owner Jane Speeger likes it.

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PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

“My place is like your front room or your back room,” she tells me. “There’s no need to dress up or pretend to be something you’re not. Everyone is welcome.”

Not Part of the Plan Offering a full list of cocktails and a very well-equipped bar, getting into this industry wasn’t something Jane had planned when she first came to Vietnam. “It was unexpected,” the Shanghai native says. “My husband and I came on a two-year contract, and now 14 years later, we’re still here.” She has a great sense of humour about the whole thing, laughing frequently with customers and describing the differences between her home city and where she is now as like “coming from Mars”. As with many bars, there’s a long story behind its origin, but you’ll have to buy Jane a La Habana special (VND150,000) to get the whole story, or perhaps the delicious daquiri

floridita (VND120,00) or the fruity but not overpowering sangria red (VND120,000). Since her unexpected change in life course, it’s been a labour of love for Jane, and something that has attracted people back time and time again. “I’ve known some of my customers for more than 10 years,” she explains. “La Habana is a famous name that people know in this city. We do swing dancing, we used to do salsa, but basically it stands for relaxing good times. That’s why we haven’t changed too much. I just do my own thing. It’s a lot of work, but we have fun, too.” — Jon Aspin La Habana is at 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, HCMC. Besides drinks and live music they serve up Spanish and Cuban-inspired cuisine with a small menu of German fare (Jane’s husband in German). You can book the place for functions and the live music starts every night from around 9.30pm

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HCMC On The Town

BARS & CLUBS 2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234

saigon.park.hyatt.com

International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon. ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC

6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP

41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR

7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345

Buddhabarsaigon.com APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB

2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124

apocalypsesaigon.com

An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back. BIA CRAFT CRAFT BEER BAR

90 Xuan Thuy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2588

biacraft.com

As craft beer continues to take over watering holes around Ho Chi Minh City, so a bar dedicated to all things ‘craft’ and ‘real ale’ seems like a pretty sensible idea, right? Well, it is. Only small, but with wooden tables perfect for sharing, both on tap and by the bottle, Bia Craft sells up a delectable range of the good stuff. Looking for Tiger? Go take a hike. Also has a decent food menu. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB

95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BREAD & BUTTER INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD

40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452

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Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CHAMPION SPORTS BAR SPORTS BAR

45-47 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4202 A recent addition to the sports-and-watering-hole drinking scene, Champion is located in the Backpackers’ area and shows all the major televised sports. Also has a pool table, darts, tasty Western and Vietnamese food, great cocktails and ice cold beer. Western managed, wonderful local staff. #BeAChampion.

out their daily food specials.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE

EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR

Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs. GAME ON SPORTS BAR

115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898

gameonsaigon.com

A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more. HOA VIEN CZECH BREWHOUSE

28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605

hoavien.vn

The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR

24 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 One of this city’s longest running watering holes — and the original home of the darts league — has recently reopened in its new premises. Naturally, darts are still key here, with each of the bottom three floors having elements devoted to this most pub-friendly of sports.

CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city.

55, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 What does the Thao Dien area of Saigon seriously lack? A sports bar. And this is the Al Fresco Group’s answer to a distinct shortage hole in the market. Sleek lines, modern décor, elegant and spacious, dartboards and of course, lots of large screens to watch the televised sports. Check

59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122

lastcallsaigon.com

If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

DELIVERY BEN STYLE

LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR

175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner.

Tel: 0906 912730

www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO

Tel: (08) 3898 3747

www.chezguido.com DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030

www.dominos.vn LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR

207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine. MAY RESTAURANT & BAR LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

EAT.VN www.eat.vn

HUNGRYPANDA. VN

www.hungrypanda.vn KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999

www.kfcvietnam. com.vn

mayrestaurant.com.vn

An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space.

LOTTERIA

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn

PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388

www.pizzahut.vn NUMBER FIVE

LA HABANA CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180

lahabana-saigon.com

Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

D2 SPORTS BAR

LAST CALL

LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

EXPAT BAR

44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:

SCOOZI

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com

TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com

(08) 3829 3198

irish-barsaigon.com

This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS

46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796

phattysbar.com

From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198

Saigonoutcast.com

Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets.

menu. A good place to watch the live sports. THE CUBE BAR HIP RESTOBAR

31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798

VINYL BAR

A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin.

vinylbarsaigon.com

facebook.com/thecubesaigon

SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559

facebook.com/saigonranger

Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. SAIGON SAIGON BAR

THE OBSERVATORY

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623 A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League. WINE BAR 38

5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit.

CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass. WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 THE ORIENT

9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday.

MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

BAR, ART & DJ SPACE

LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR

caravellehotel.com

cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks.

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1

facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon

An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.

wineembassy.com.vn

A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468

xusaigon.com

This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a

SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH

Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat.

61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1

shrinebarsaigon.com

Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like atmosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON

RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR

S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON SOUL POOL PARTY POOL & DAY CLUB

New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1

saigonsoul.com

The ultimate in poolside entertainment, Saigon Soul is defined by its great party atmosphere. Booming house music, cold drinks and beautiful people. What better way to spend a Saturday? Runs every Saturday from late November until mid May.

THEMED MUSIC BAR

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Laneway-style restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007

seventeensaloon.com.vn

Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here. STORM P DANISH / INTERNATIONAL

5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738

Stormp.vn

Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food

THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

A sophisticated yet down-to-earth

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COFFEE CUP KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS

estled on the street corner between Mac Thi Buoi and Phan Van Dat, from the streetfront Klasik Coffee Roasters looks simple and modest. Yet walk inside and the space is equipped with classic French-style chairs and tables in harmony with the contemporary décor, all giving a cozy and tranquil ambience. There were a couple of people in the café, mostly working. I settled in a corner and started looking at the drinks list.

Coffee on Tap Like other coffee shops, Klasik offers a wide range of coffee from basic to house creative blends. But I always love something a little different — the Nitro Cold Brew was outstanding. With its froth on the top, lookswise it is similar to a dark, German-style beer. Yet that’s where the similarity ends. Made from cold coffee run out from taps that create a thick layer of foam, if you find Vietnamese traditional filtered coffee heavy and thick, this is much fresher, lighter and very, very smooth. According to the owner Thiep, a cup of Nitro Cold Brew takes a lot of time to prepare. After being roasted and ground, the coarse-ground beans are soaked at room

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PHOTOS BY BAO ZOAN

temperature in cold water for over 18 hours. Then the mixture is filtered through a paper coffee filter or cloth to become cold-brew coffee. But to make it look like dark beer with the foamy effect, the extract needs to be infused with nitrogen gas. Accompanied by an option of four extra flavours including salted caramel, hazelnut, butter rum and spicy cheesecake, this complex drink is priced at VND50,000. “But if you want to have wholesale deals with us, you’re welcome,” said Thiep.

For the Purists While regular coffee is a blend from various sources, single-origin coffee is coffee that comes from one location. It could be from a single farm or a whole country. Each singleorigin coffee has unique flavours formed by its regional water source, soil and weather. Going with the trend, Klasik is introducing single-origin coffee imported from Asia, Oceania, Africa, South and Central America to satisfy the more fastidious clients. “For the best taste, it should be used as either espresso or in a drip,” Thiep advised. You can buy one bag of single-origin coffee and try it at home or simply grab a cup starting from VND75,000 at the café and

enjoy the moment to the soundtrack of gentle background music.

Not just a Café If the first floor is mainly for coffee, the second floor is a shared room for coffee and food with the kitchen set up out back. Understanding the nature of coffee, Klasik has designed dishes that not only can fit with the taste of coffee but are also good for your health. The food menu has a range of options including salad, spaghetti, noodles and burgers. I ordered duck and cucumber salad (VND135,000) and smoked salmon baguette (VND110,000) as I hadn’t had breakfast and my watch was already showing 1pm. A meal can’t be completed without a dessert, so I indulged in a passion fruit cheesecake (VND40,000). The sourness from the topping blended with the sweetness of the cheese. Adding the bitterness from a sip of coffee, the combination was divine. Klasik has a distinctive style and sense of creativity; they are clearly working hard to understand their customers’ needs. I’ll definitely be coming back. — Vu Ha Kim Vy Klasik Coffee Roaster is located at 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, HCMC. Visit klasik.coffee for more info and promotions

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AMAZING GRAPES WOMEN & WINE

he wine industry is a very male dominated world. All facets of production, appreciation and sales have traditionally been the domain of men. This has, of course, undergone a considerable change in recent years, and the wine business is becoming much more balanced. But wine styles and marketing are still very much skewed towards attracting male consumers. In fact, more than half (56%) of wine drinkers in Western countries are women. While average individual female consumption is lower than for men, women still account for the majority of retail purchases. What’s more, women drink wine more in social situations than men. Traditionally the wine industry has created

BY JIM CAWOOD

open-minded and willing to try new products based on promotions or attractive labels than men are. Occasionally there are also just lucky accidents. At the turn of the century, Spanish producer Maetierra set about reviving native white grape varieties like Muscat à Petit Grains that had been all but wiped out by phyloxera. They wanted to create a modern, fresh expression of the variety that was food-friendly called Libalis. They did — the wine was very good — but the packaging was tired and old-fashioned and the variety un-trendy. The wine struggled. Then, rather than try and educate and lecture the public as to why the wine was good, they decided to create a label that expressed how they would like to see the

“Traditionally the wine industry has created the idea that in order to enjoy wine you must be able to appreciate and collect it. Women have decided that in order to enjoy wine all you need is some good friends”

Alcoholic volume: 11.5%. Made in Spain

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the idea that in order to enjoy wine you must be able to appreciate and collect it. Women have decided that in order to enjoy wine all you need is some good friends. Vietnam is no exception. 15 years ago it was rare to see Vietnamese women drinking in public. The whole drinking culture was a very ‘males only’ event, involving drinking ‘mot tram phan tram’ until you could no longer walk. The fastest growing wine-drinking demographic here is females between the ages of 20 and 35. They are young, well-educated (often abroad), hold good corporate or professional jobs, are not yet married and — unlike their parents — have disposable income. Drinking wine in Vietnam is still associated with sophistication, worldliness and success; all the things that today’s young Vietnamese businesswomen aspire to.

wine enjoyed; in a fun, happy-go-lucky sort of way. The new packaging connected with female consumers and sales took off. Not just a pretty bottle, Libalis has won many awards around the world including at two special wine shows which are judged only by women, AMAVI in Spain and Sakura in Japan. The point in all this is, I suppose, that conventional wine culture promotes consuming rare and expensive bottles, to show off with wine knowledge and to taste. Not enough time is spent promoting the social aspect of drinking a bottle of wine with good friends, catching up, talking and enjoying one another’s company. This does not mean that women appreciate or understand wine any less than men, but that they are more attuned to realise that it tastes much better when shared with others.

Where’s Your Head At?

Libalis Muscat 2014

It is perhaps odd, then, that wine marketers have not latched onto this. Maybe the industry is still stuck on the notion of light, fruity, sweet wines as “chicks’ drinks” and that real wine is the domain of men. I, for one, know of plenty cases where the opposite is the case, where wine style preference is not related to gender. But it is also true that women tend to be more

This is dangerously drinkable and at 11.5% alcohol it won’t knock you on the head. Slightly off-dry with ripe peach, mango and rambutan fruit flavours. It has a long, full bodied finish. A great wine for spicy Asian curries and Vietnamese salads. Jim Cawood is a trained sommelier and is presently man-at-the-helm at District 2 restaurant, Lubu

HCMC On The Town

range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.

M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701 Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker. AGNES CAFE DALAT COFFEE HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, homemade desserts. Offers up tasty breakfasts, lunch and dinner all the way through until 9pm. BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003

sam.nguyen197@gmail.com

A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960s-era apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657

cafethoaivien.com

Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL

157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1

coffeebean.com.vn

Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

INTERNATIONAL

79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115

Decibel.vn

Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials. GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830

guanabanasmoothies.com

An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme. HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL

41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222

Hideawaycafe-saigon.com

Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE

34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910

Idcafe.net

Centrally located near Ben

MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400

facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee

KLASIK COFFEE ROASTERS DECIBEL

immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town.

CAFE AND ON-SITE ROASTING 40 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6685 4160

klasik.coffee

Nitro cold brew coffee, single origin coffee and healthy food. Klasik Coffee Roasters is a small coffee shop with a passion for seeking high quality coffee beans from around the world to roast in Saigon. Holding the belief that each cup tells its own story, drinking coffee at Klasik is all about pleasure and experience: the aroma, the taste, the warmth and the senses inspired by each and every cup. Open daily from 7am to 10pm.

L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH

First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703

lusinespace.com

French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi.

Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM

8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS

49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330

themorningcafe.com.vn

M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495

Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.

At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows

THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272

facebook.com/m2ccafe

facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe

Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE

158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000. THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205

facebook.com/thingscafe

Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.

EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ

Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372

chillsaigon.com

Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.

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KNOW YOUR CITY THE EXPAT GHETTO

hen I first arrived in Ho Chi Minh City I didn’t fully appreciate the layers and complexity of the city. In trying to make sense of the city I decided that on Sundays I would take an area, walk it and document it to give me some understanding of what made it work. At the time I was working in Dong Du, so the area bounded by Le Thanh Ton, Ton Duc Thang and Hai Ba Trung seemed like a good place to start as it was close and has a good character about it. I didn’t realise that it had a racy past with girly bars featuring in run-down tenements. If I had thought about it a little more that would have made sense as the area was once home to French naval personnel. In the American war the US personnel replaced the French but the game was the same. Thi Sach street runs from the Children’s Hospital (formerly barracks for the French soldiers) down to the port — to allow fast mobilisation for the French forces housed there. The street now contains a number of elegant hotels. Thai Van Lung runs parallel to it and while still supporting some hotels, retains vestiges of the bar trade it once was famous for. After the war the area between Thai Van Lung and Le Thanh Ton was deeded to the Navy and most of the bars and houses were cleared out. What replaced some of it proved to be incredibly interesting and its development is relatively recent. In that precinct is one of the most unusual residential areas I have ever come across. It shouldn’t work at all — due to the

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BY ED HAYSOM

PHOTOS BY FRANCIS XAVIER

extraordinary density of the buildings. It would not be seen as desirable in other cities — perhaps seen as a generator of crime — but in fact it is quite safe with a distinct charm, while supporting a wide range of other uses, particularly at street level, such as bars, restaurants, massage places and retail. Whereas western urban design and planning methodology promotes separation of buildings for fire health and amenity reasons, the buildings here ignore all of that. The accompanying map, indicating built form and open space, gives an idea of the density. The map is based on the work of Italian architect and surveyor Giambattista Nolli who mapped Rome in 1736.

In Close Proximity So why does it work? Probably for a number of reasons. It is right inside District 1, so values are high, attracting the expat who enjoys (and tolerates) the close urban spaces. That in turn supports the small bars and boutique restaurants, which in turn encourages more like-minded expats. I am not trying to make a correlation between income and crime, but rather that homogenous communities sharing common

values have been proven to be successful. It is known as the ‘Japanese Ghetto’ as many Japanese and Korean expats have made their home there, supported by stores, restaurants, bars and spas catering to their needs. The original mix of residential to commercial was 80% residential to 20% commercial. Now that ratio has changed to 60:40 reflecting the interest in the area. Tiny homes easily sell for over US$250,000 drawn by the fact that the uses in the “ghetto” are mixed and those mixtures are largely compatible. There is always plenty of life in the alleyways and the small scale of the uses — largely brought about due to the tight spaces — means that the uses are in proportion to the area (it would be impossible to have a large bar in there). In many ways — flawed as it is — it is a model for the future of the city. That people enjoy the close proximity, the absence of motor vehicles, the sense of community that the ghetto gives, is an indication of how a city like Ho Chi Minh City may evolve and develop a distinct character that represents Vietnam rather than another western city. A great city should be generous in its offerings to all types of people, young and old, rich and poor. The building programme that settles many people in high-rise towers is understandable, however urban design is also about building communities and right inside District 1 is an excellent example of how this can be achieved and be successful. Ed Haysom is the general director of Mode / Haysom Architects and is based in Ho Chi Minh City. You can contact him on ehaysom@ modehaysomarchitects.com

HCMC On The Town

AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL

27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424

alfrescosgroup.com

The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2. ASHOKA

lar park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661

babaskitchen.in

This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177

ashokaindianrestaurant. com

Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

BLACK CAT AMERICAN

13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055

blackcatsaigon.com

Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL

BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157

CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592

Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.

Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

aulacdobrazil.com

AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ

23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772

auparcsaigon.com

Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popu-

boomarang.com.vn BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261

bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.

CAFÉ IF VIETNAMESE FRENCH

38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE

40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502

Chiscafe.com

This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN

11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329

saigonrestaurantgroup.com

New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE

16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for.

EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909

elgaucho.com.vn

A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN

Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750

eon51.com

Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients.

CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL

117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368

norfolkhotel.com.vn

Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786

ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com

The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

ELBOW ROOM

HOA TUC

AMERICAN

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327

elbowroom.com.vn

The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

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TOP EATS LE CORTO

’ve eaten at Le Corto three times, the first two times with the owners. On the third occasion I went unannounced with a friend. What I was told before turned out to be correct; thanks to their reasonably priced set lunch (VND180,000 for two courses, VND250,000 for three), even their lunchtimes are busy at the moment. It was a Tuesday and we were lucky to get a table. Every time I meet this friend, a corporate expat who has lived in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, we try out a new restaurant. With Le Corto he was suitably impressed. There’s something about the charcoal-grey walls and black ceiling, the velvet-covered couches, the wooden or marble-topped tables and the ambience of both classic yet contemporary, French-influenced décor that makes it a pleasant place to dine.

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Located on the site that was formerly occupied by the first El Gaucho in Vietnam, it retains echoes of the past. As the friend said: “I always liked the upstairs room in El Gaucho”. What the new owners have done with it has made the space at least as appealing as before. Bypassing the set lunch — we were both on a health trip — we ordered soup and salad. I settled for French onion soup (not so healthy) and the salade Lyonnaise, while my friend ordered the cauliflower soup and the salade de printemps. As we waited for the food to arrive, I started raving about my last visit.

From Cartoon to Cuisine The restaurant is named after the comic character created by cartoonist Hugo Pratt in 1967. Corto Maltese is the French version of Flashman, the character from Tom

Brown’s Schooldays so wonderfully revived by Scottish novelist George MacDonald Fraser, in his series of adventure novels in the 1960s and 1970s. “He’s an adventurer,” explains JeanMarcel Guillon, one of the team behind Le Corto. “He likes women but is not a womaniser. He’s elegant and cosmopolitan but not fashionable, but is passionate and has friends everywhere. Cats are his favourite animal. He smokes, as well — mainly small cigarettes that he rolls himself. Le Corto was a name that nobody had, and it was a name that had a sound... He’s a character who fits very well with what we want to do.” Le Thu, one of the other faces behind the new venture, adds: “That’s why we used the black cat in our logo. He loves cats. And that’s why black is a big part of the décor.”

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Time to Indulge To a backdrop of jazzy, loungy tunes from the likes of Aretha Franklin, Peter Cincotti, Ronny Jordan and Eliane Elias, our meal started — naturally — with the au torchon foie gras (VND320,000). Served with brown bread toast, roasted black garlic, beetroot jelly and vegetables julienne, the foie gras was wonderfully smooth — musty, smoky, melt in your mouth, a perfect match for the crunch of the toast and the vegetables. Eaten with the sweet black garlic, the complexion changed, the combination of sweet and smoky exploding on the palate. This was followed by the ris de veau (VND490,000) or veal sweetbreads served up with morel mushrooms and crushed potatoes. Served up with a creamy sauce bursting with truffle, the veal was crispy on the outside, soft and succulent on the

inside. Mixed together and drunk with a glass of French red, the dish was divine. The dessert, the iced nougat with a red fruit sauce (VND195,000) was equally good — a wonderful end to an indulgent meal. Crunchy and yet soft all in one mouthful, the result was a sweet-and-sour style dessert made even more moreish thanks to the chocolate sugar on the side.

Striking a Balance One thing that struck me about the menu — put together by award-winning French chef and co-owner Sakal Phoeung — was the pricing. Here it’s based on the cost of the ingredients. So some mains go for as little as VND220,000, while others such as the Black Angus Rossini reach VND880,000. The wine menu, mixing old world and new, is equally well priced, with

wine by the bottle starting at VND600,000. In a town where prices can sometimes get extortionate, it’s a refreshing change. But most important is the variety. Topend French fare is all about indulgence, but on our lunchtime visit we were able to go the opposite route by opting for soup and salad. To me this suggests not only flexibility but also a desire to provide something for everyone. You can eat heavy cuisine, or you can go light; you can eat fish, seafood, vegetarian or meat. From my experience, the ability to have a menu adapted to the taste and desires of different customers is vital for keeping diners happy. Le Corto does this with aplomb. — Nick Ross Le Corto is at 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3822 0671. You can find them online at facebook.com/lecorto

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HCMC

HOANG YEN

KOH THAI

LE JARDIN

PAN-VIETNAMESE

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

CLASSIC FRENCH

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.

On The Town

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL

Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066

hogsbreathcafe.com.vn

Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI

4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.

KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT

LION CITY

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE

SINGAPOREAN

3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!

45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN

Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555

sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team. LA CUISINE FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL INTERNATIONAL FUSION

The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931

Alfrescosgroup.com

Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882

lacuisine.com.vn

This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list. LE CORTO

lioncityrestaurant.com

Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry. LOVEAT 29 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6260 2727

loveat.vn

Located bang opposite the Bitexco Tower, Loveat serves up three floors’ worth of Mediterranean cuisine mixed in with continental favourites like moules frites. A great place for dinner, cocktails and wines in a contemporary Saigon atmosphere. LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN

97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371

luburestaurant.com

Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace.

CONTEMPORARY FRENCH

KABIN CANTONESE

Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY

marriott.com

Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

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5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0671

facebook.com/LeCorto

Open for lunch and set dinner, this beautifully designed restaurant and bar seamlessly mixes contemporary and with classic. With a menu cooked up by reputed chef Sakal Phoeung, and with a contemporary twist to traditional French fare, this is a place to enjoy the luxuries of fine cuisine and even finer wine.

MARKET 39

NINETEEN INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999

caravellehotel.com

One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality.

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET

MEDITERRANEAN

L’OLIVIER

a darkwood, aircon interior. Subtle lighting and an attention to details is matched by some of the best contemporary cuisine in the city, all with a European influence. Also has an extensive wine list, a good selection of imported beers and a happy hour.

LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE

31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests. MAD HOUSE CONTEMPORARY CAFE, BAR, RESTAURANT

6/1/2 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4009

facebook.com/madsaigon

Set over a pool in a leafy, tropical garden, the beautiful rustic décor is matched by

Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999

intercontinental.com/saigon MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD

19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686

may.restaurant19@gmail. com

Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.

OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES

18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN

97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

MEKONG MERCHANT

PENDOLASCO

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD

PAN-ITALIAN

23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478

87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282

The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2.

info@mekongmerchant.com

MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN

1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies. NAM GIAO HUE CUISINE

136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996

namgiao.com

If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.

pendolasco.vn

PITCHERS SPORTS AND GRILL SPORTS BAR & GRILL RESTAURANT

C0.01 Riverside Residence C, Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7, Tel: (08) 6274 1520

facebook.com/PitchersPMH Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, this spacious restobar with an affection for showing televised sports has a family friendly edge thanks to its kids play area. Does a great grill menu and of course, lots of very cold beer for those developing a thirst in the Saigon heat. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION

8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838

pizza4ps.com

This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

POP FRIES CALIFORNIAN-STYLE FRIES

14M Quoc Huong, Q2, Tel: 0938 754251; 273 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0938 754851 A street food eatery concept that originates from Los Angeles and New York, and born from a passion for sharing, here it’s all about the loaded fries. The potatoes are twice-cooked and come piled high with a range of inventive toppings. Funky décor and long benches make up the mix. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.

RACHA ROOM CONTEMPORARY THAI RESTOBAR 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 6253 7711

theracharoom.com

The Racha Room delivers Thai accented Pan-Asian cuisine with a focus on high quality ingredients. Racha features a large selection of spirits at a seated bar and high table to ensure drinking along with eating remains central to the experience. The current and future of Asian-inspired drinking and dining is right here at the Racha Room.

REFINERY

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509

therefinerysaigon.com

A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains. RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN

QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500

facebook.com/quanutut

It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with

sanfulou.com

RELISH & SONS GOURMET BURGER BAR 44 Dong Du, Q1, Tel (08) 6291 8187

relishandsons.com

Relish & Sons burgers are lovingly made with a healthy food philosophy in mind and fresh high quality ingredients. The beef patties are 100% Australian grass-fed; the buns are made with a reduced sugar and salt content. Burger relishes such as chutneys are all made inhouse from scratch.

SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN

QUAN BUI 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town.

Tel: (08) 3823 9513

grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap.

Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised. SAIGON CAFÉ

Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SEOUL HOUSE

SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN

23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

KOREAN

33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297

seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr

The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE

Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221

shangpalace.com.vn

Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

STOKER CONTEMPORARY STEAKHOUSE 44 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel (08) 3826 8691

stokerwoodfiredgrill.com

One of the world’s oldest culinary techniques — grilling over a wood fire. Stoker kitchen uses different woods to infuse foods with different smoky flavours. These techniques revolutionize live fire cooking by providing precise heat control through the use of a grilling surface that can be adjusted to different cooking heights above the hot coals.

INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET

Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828

sheratonsaigon.com

If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch. SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN

Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1

SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN

9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798

skewers-restaurant.com

Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE

Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689

soraesushi.com

Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 183

TOP EATS FAMILY GARDEN

f you live in Saigon and are the complaining type, one of the things you’ve probably complained about, and with some justification, is the lack of green space in this city. It’s hardly a new debate. While the country is known as a tropical jungle, its southern metropolis can fairly be said to lack sufficient areas to create what foreigners might consider ‘optimal’ living conditions. It’s a reasonable criticism, but it’s not without remedy.

Hiding in Plain Sight Family Garden has been around for almost two years, but most people don’t know about it. Almost hiding in plain sight, if you drive down Thao Dien with even a modicum of urgency, it’s a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it situation. The modest signage has always been there though, and if you make that left, just after the entrance to Thao Dien Sports Centre, you’ll soon be transported into a tranquil, other-worldly garden space. That’s Family Garden.

184 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

PHOTOS BY KYLE PHANROY

Already popular with families, and apparently well known amongst District 2’s French expats, the purpose of the space is three-fold; to offer a peaceful sanctuary for escape, a fully organic market to buy produce from, and to give people the opportunity to grow their own vegetables on a rented plot of land, which you can do for VND650,000 per month.

A Revelation Walking in for the first time is a revelation. “How long has this been here?” you’ll be asking yourself, right before you sit down to enjoy one of a range of locally grown fruit juices (VND30,000), under one of many shaded canopies. You should feel the stress of the street lift right off you, as you admire what has been created here; an oasis of silence, bamboo and all things good from the earth. There’s a creek, beds to lie down on and even bunny rabbits, peacefully going about their day among the vegetable plots; it’s all very Beatrix Potter.

At the front is a family-friendly playground and a reasonable space for your next company picnic, though this is not Snap Café, so don’t expect a full Western menu and waiters eager to fill your drinks. The pace here is intentionally much slower, and the vibe is very local. From Monday to Friday the lunch special is egg omelette with boiled vegetables (VND50,000) and there is a range of other options, but best to let the kitchen know in advance. When I asked about the chicken on our visit I was told to wait an hour, so my advice is to pop by first and check out the options, you won’t be disappointed. If the locally grown produce is more your thing, fruit and veg (VND40,000 per kilo) and leafy greens (VND50,000 per kilo) are available till sold out. — Jon Aspin Family Garden is at 28 Thao Dien, Q2, HCMC and is open from 8.30am to 8.30pm every day. Bookings can be made on 0913 662887 or you can check them out at facebook. com/familygarden.familyfood

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 185

A WORLD

GOOD

WRITING CHEQUES BEFORE CHECKING IN

BY DANA MCNAIRN

Rather than telling people what they need, ask them

“I

’m not judgmental,” said the woman working for an NGO in Cambodia. “But I just don’t understand why they don’t seem to get it.” She works handing out soap and toothbrushes as part of a community health project and the “it” is using said items for the improved hygiene results the NGO was counting on. The locals had their own ideas and were instead selling said hygiene improvements. I love these (sort of) parallelisms. “I’m not a racist, but...” or “I’m not a sexist, but….” This is a clear signal that when you hear this type of expression the very next thing out of that person’s mouth will verify they are indeed judgmental, racist or sexist. So right out of the door flies that whole pesky ‘do no harm’ principle where we’re trying to utilize minimum standards in aid and humanitarian responses like ‘we shall respect culture and custom’. In the development sector, until you and I have lived among the people we profess to serve or have spent many years working alongside them, we will remain tourists scratching our heads muttering, “But why are they doing that?”

186 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

The Immediate Concern

Self-Determination

The Cambodians had their reasons and you can bet that had the NGO actually chatted with the locals about soap and toothbrushes it may have learned instead that the community needed microenterprise and livelihood generation. Or perhaps they needed a new opera house. The point is they weren’t asked. There’s a razor-thin line between charity and gratitude, isn’t there? What is the response to those volunteers who feel comfortable going overseas to do work they are not qualified to do at home and thus are responsible for eliminating a real local from real employment? More importantly, what might be the response to the sending agencies that place inexperienced do-gooders in these situations? Those sending agencies are carving up a US$2 billion a year industry in ‘voluntourism’ and hey, economic existentialism — who has time for that! But humanitarian aid and social development are not commodities. While the selfies continue to pop in impoverished communities (look at me holding raggedy children!), more than 1.3 billion people on our planet live in extreme poverty (less than US$1.25 a day) says the World Bank. Soap is not the immediate concern.

Somewhere in our commitment to development and ending poverty, there sneaks in a troubling rhetoric of ‘telling people what to do’.” I’m all for zeal and drive and infectious enthusiasm (most days), but there is a chorus of righteousness that seems to couple itself with “and you should…” or “it’s better if you….” Only you know what’s best for you, but this is too often a decision we take away from others, especially when we’re ‘helping’ them. That doesn’t sound like we’re upholding the universality of self-esteem and self-reliance. The formidable Barbara Ehrenreich , author of the influential Nickel and Dimed: On (Not) Getting By in America, uses the word solidarity in discussions around gratitude. I prefer that too and we cannot lose sight of it. We’re all in this together, our shared humanity. Why not engage with something more like… solidarity economics? Let’s really reduce — and eliminate — future vulnerabilities. Albert Camus, no stranger to poverty, said we cannot seem “to have dispensed with generosity in order to practise charity”. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, an award-winning nonprofit social enterprise providing vocational training for at-risk youth

HCMC On The Town

TAMAGO

TIN NGHIA

PAN-JAPANESE

VEGAN

39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634

tamagoresto@gmail.com

Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244

Templeclub.com.vn

Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

M M M STREET FOOD BA GHIEN COM TAM

84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan

MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632

thedecksaigon.com

Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list. THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE

144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 4533

facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout.

BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG VIETNAMESE BANH MI

107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU

VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL

Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698

facebook.com/vespersaigon

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space.

Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10 BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097

wrap-roll.com

189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1 PHO DAU PHO BO

288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3

BANH TAM

271 Nguyen Trai, Q1 BO KHO

NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE

BA NAM

PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

260C Pasteur, Q3

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE

200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917

PHO LE

BUN CHA HA NOI

PHO PHU GIA

Namsonsteak.com

PHO BO

413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON

BUN CHA

PHO BO

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1

146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3

CHI THONG

PHO PHU VUONG

11A Cao Thang, Q3 BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU

BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI

PHO BO

195 Co Giang, Q1

339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh

COM GA XOI MO SU SU

SUSHI KO

BANH KHOT

102 Cao Thang, Q3 THE DECK

170 Vo Van Tan, Q3

BANH MI HONG HOA

VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN

STREET SUSHI

55 Tu Xuong, Q3

122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4

COM TAM 40A

THE LUNCH LADY

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1

COM TAM

BANH MI HUYNH HOA

23 Hoang Sa, Q1

MI QUANG MY SON

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI

26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1

MI QUANG

BANH MI SAU MINH

DAILY CHANGING DISHES

40A Quoc Huong, Q2

38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE

67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751

VIETNAMESE BANH MI

YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE

1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular. ZEUS GREEK / KEBAB

THE SOCIETY GRILL AND LOUNGE BAR 99 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 3999

facebook.com/TheSocietyHCM

Designed as a Lanewaystyle restobar, the kind of place found in Hong Kong, London, New York or Central Melbourne, thanks to its indoor and outdoor ambience, The Society brings dining and drinking to a new level. Phenomenal cocktails, steaks, grilled fare and seafood make this a place to go for drinks, a full-blown meal or a mixture of both.

164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ AMERICAN / TEX-MEX

169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897

vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom

This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 187

BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1

PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3

CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4

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TAM

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KH OI NG HI

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SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2 Luu Van Lang C4

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Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3, D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4, C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4, C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1, B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3, D2, E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2, E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3, B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3, D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2

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Saigon South 4km

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The Final Say

THE FINAL SAY

NATIOANAL

Kiteboarding Goes to Phan Rang Professional kiteboarding tries out a new location â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Phan Rang. Words by Jon Aspin

190 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

PHOTOS PROVIDED BY KTA

hen the KTA Pro Kiteboarding event took place just off the coast of Phan Rang in Ninh Thuan Province back in February, it was a little too late for us to include anything in our March issue. So, here are a few photos from what by all accounts turned out to be a sensational time in a pristine location. Even though a storm on the first day, and some difficult wind conditions, tried to play havoc with the event, the Vietnam Rowing, Canoeing and Sailing Federation, (VCRSF) along with local officials and event organizers, were able to shift the location slightly around Ninh Chu Bay, enabling the blue-ribbon Freestyle X category to run smoothly. Here, sponsored riders, including some bona-fide European national champions, names like Dylan van der Meij (NED), and Andrey Salnik (UKR) on the men's side, and Marine Duprat (FRA) and Annabel van Westerop (NED) in the women’s event, mixed it with Asia’s best. Special mention should go to Vietnam’s own Lai Hoang Phu, who took out the men’s division of KTA’s

new WOO Big Air competition with a gnarly jump of 13.8m. Also up for grabs were cash prizes in the Time Trial category that saw racers navigate a demanding circuit five times, with each rider's best three times counting towards their score, and the everyone-can-have-a-go, but still competitive SUP sprint. Judging by the smiles on people’s faces in the pictures we’ve seen, it was a welcome return to Vietnam for the Asian Pro Tour, which has not been here since 2012. The location was also important. Straddled by Phan Thiet / Mui Ne to the south and Nha Trang / Cam Ranh to the north, the province of Ninh Thuan is often overlooked in favour of its better-known counterparts up and down the central coast. Holding a professional, international competition on the outskirts of its major city, Phan Rang, will help put this desert-like region on the international map. Thanks to local supporters Manta Sail Training Centre, Son Long Thuan and Vietnam Airlines, as well as their hosts for the competition Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club

and Bar. Let’s hope they and the tour keep coming back. — Jon Aspin The next stop for the KTA is in Hainan in China in May. Keep on eye on all the action and results at kiteboardtour.asia or you can check out them out at facebook.com/kiteboardtourasia

The Winners WOO F ACTOR

Men: Lai Hoang Phu (VN) Women: Mariska Wildenburg (NED)

F REESTYLE X

Men: Dylan van der Meij (NED) Women: Marine Duprat (FRA)

TT R ACING

Men: Narapichit Pudla (THAI) Women: Jingle Chen (CHN)

SUP X-C HAMP

Men: Alexsander Shafinsky (RUS) Women: Marine Duprat (FRA)

wordvietnam.com | April 2016 Word | 191

The Final Say

Ten10

Nick Ross likes to avoid the limelight, but considering he’s been at the helm of this rag for 100 issues, maybe now is about time How did the plan of publishing an arrival of online publishing English-language magazine come changed your business? Loads. It’s affected business models, not about? It came originally from someone I was working with in Singapore in early 2005. He had done a magazine in Saigon in the early 1990s and somehow revived the idea with me. However, it wasn’t until I returned to Vietnam a couple of months later that I discovered it was really possible. The same friend ended up as one of the founders.

just for us, but for everyone in the media industry. I think we’re finally getting to grips with it and what people want from digital. But it’s taken a bit of time.

And to get the license we had to have good contacts. Fortunately we found someone who could help on that front. The other issue was convincing people that what we were doing was worth supporting. One person, who’s now a good friend of mine, even told me in lessthan-polite words where to get off.

Our non-native English speaking readership has grown dramatically over the years. Vietnamese readers alone make up 25% of our audience. Not bad, really. The key has been changing the focus slightly so that this is not just an expat rag — it’s got a bit of something for everyone.

Presumably your core audience is from the Anglosphere. How much have you been able to draw in non-native English readers (especially Vietnamese). How difficult was it to get going? Has the readership profile Very. It was all about getting the license. changed over the years?

Running a business in the cultural area is clearly more sensitive than if you were, say, a manufacturer of widgets. How do you walk this line? I don’t really know, to be honest. I guess I’m just a sucker for punishment! Also, I’ve never manufactured anything in my whole life.

Your journalists need to be well informed about Vietnam. How hard is it to find and keep knowledgeable staff in such a transient market? Has it got easier or harder? It’s very difficult. And it’s no easier now than it was at the start. It’s all in the details. What do they see when they write about this country? Let’s say they want to talk about crossing the road. How will they talk about it? If they write like they’re a rabbit caught in the headlights, forget it. However, if they see more into it — for example, can use the concept of crossing a road as a metaphor for life in Vietnam — then they may have something.

What would you say are the three key attributes you need to run a business like yours here? Perseverance, patience and the realisation that a bit like Sisyphus, no matter how far up the mountain you push the boulder, it will always roll back down again.

How (and how much) has the 192 | Word April 2016 | wordvietnam.com

Has the business given you the opportunity to meet wellknown people or enjoy unusual experiences which otherwise you might not have had? Yes, without a doubt. It’s enabled me to travel pretty much everywhere in Vietnam and meet people from all walks of society. For me, though, the most unusual experiences were when I climbed Hamburger Hill — my relationship with the Co Tu guide was bizarre — and the crazy, crazy day I spent in Kontum where I ended up at an ethnic minority wedding drinking rice wine out of a straw from a shared pot.

Have there been any highlight moments which stick in your memory? The launch of our Hanoi edition in November 2009. We did it at Softwater by the Red River. Because the party was on a lawn, we got everyone to take off their shoes before they were allowed in. The idea was to get rid of airs and graces, and put us all on the same level. It worked. Oh, and of course, this article. Finally I am being allowed out of the woodwork!

You’ve obviously seen an enormous amount of change in your 16 years here. What has been the most surprising change to you? The speed of it. If I compare early 2000 to now, it feels like we’re in a different universe.

Sách Chuyên Quảng Cáo - Not For Sale