CHUYÊN CHUYÊN ĐỀ ĐỀ DU LỊCH, LỊCH, ẨM THỰC THỰC VIETNAM VIETN VIET NAM EDITION EDITIO DITION N / TẬP TẬP 7 2015 JULY JUL JU LY L Y 2015 NOT NOT FOR SALE SALE SAL
Urbe NHÀ XUẤT BẢN BẢN LAO ĐỘNG ĐỘNG ĐỘN
W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM
x
Contents July 2015
042
076
092
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / Now You Can Buy
040 / The Construction Worker
So stop spending your money on cheap sunnies
011 / The Big Five
Events to look out for this month
BRIEFINGS
The guys who build the buildings that we love to climb
042 / Urban Exploration in the Tropics It’s less sweaty than it sounds
076 / Wastelands
102 / Street Snacker Hanoi On the menu: Banh Gio
104 / Mystery Diner HCMC The Dining Room absolutely crushes it
106 / Street Snacker HCMC This month, we check out oc paradise
We document an area in transition
FASHION
Pride Fest is becoming the pride of Hanoi
086 / Psychogeography
108 / Urbex Encounters
014 / Circle K is Coming
EAT & DRINK
012 / A Day to Remember
Lock up your daughters’... piggy banks
018 / Sports Digest
This month, we feature an actual photo of the athlete described
2 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Urban science of the mind
Who knew we’d find such stylish ladies in our midst?
092 / The Best Bia Hoi in Hanoi We ask the 8,000-Dong question
100 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
The Republic is helping to make Quang An respectable
108
Contents July 2015
114
118
136 TRAVEL
145 / Coffee Cup
154 / Medical Buff
114 / The Old Houses of Duong Lam
146 / Top Eats
155 / Book Buff
We get inside
152 / Food Promos
162 / Business Buff
118 / The Last Tunnel
156 / City Map
164 / A World of Good
HCMC
182 / The Empty Wok
Melbourne stays classy
020 / To-Do List
188 / Tieng Viet
133 / Travel Promos
028 / Overscene
FINAL SAY
134 / The Motorbike Diaries
158 / HCMC City Guide
192 / The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War
A discovery of the past
124 / Raising the Bar
Part 4: This is Myanmar
136 / The Portrait
The couple who’ve been together for 63 years
HANOI 030 / To-Do List 036 / Overscene
174 / Bar Stool 176 / Coffee Cup 178 / Top Eats A 184 / Top Eats B 186 / City Map
138 / Hanoi City Guide
COLUMNS 148 / The Alchemist
143 / Bar Stool
150 / The Therapist
4 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Chapter 10: Breaking the Grip
198 / A Weasel Coffee for Your Thoughts Jokes! And someone called Pierre
200 / The Last Call
Hoang Nam is exposing YouTubers to urbex
200
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked Word contributors, “What’s your best recent discovery?” NOEY NEUMARK Contributing Writer I had a late night that turned into an early morning, and I decided to take a sunrise stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake. I stumbled upon an aerobic dance class in front of the Ly Thai To statue, with dancers of all ages filling the park and the entire sidewalk across the street. I couldn’t not join them. If you haven’t done the Beyoncé booty shake with hundreds of ladies at 5am, you haven’t lived. FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Photographer The corner of Pasteur and Le Loi has a parking lot, which from the outside seems like just another one in Saigon. But when you step inside, a huge pigeon cage built by Indian expats in the 1920s will be in front of you — and to the right, it opens to a space of piled-up antique furniture, in storage built under the roots of an old banyan tree. It’s my window-shopping heaven, since I want everything but can’t afford anything there. ED WEINBERG Managing Editor A few weeks back, I went to Dalat with a group of 40 friends and stayed at Emperor Bao Dai’s former vacation home, tucked into the hillside outskirts of the city. The three days there were full of campfires, waterfalls, music, live visuals projected on a girl’s unmoving face, good vibes. It’s a bucket list check mark I didn’t even know I was making in advance. NICK ROSS Chief Editor I cycle a lot, usually in the early morning. To keep it interesting, I frequently change routes. However, my best discoveries have come from going out with other cyclists, particularly James Wolf from The Bike Shop in HCMC. He’s opened up a whole section of Thu Duc, District 9, Go Vap and Hoc Mon to me, places that I would never normally venture into on motorbike. HARRY HODGE Contributing Writer Living in HCMC’s District 7, we found some funky little spots across from our apartments on the Nha Be side of the river. If I hadn’t heard them belting out karaoke at an ungodly volume, I may not have known they were there. But you can sit by the river and consume cheap clams and squid and brewskis. As for the singers, you show your appreciation by rolling up bills and putting them in little fake flowers, which you then deliver to them.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL NICK ROSS Chief Editor editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG Managing Editor ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN Creative Director mads@wordvietnam.com
DAVID MANN Staff Editor david.mann@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY Photo Editor kyle@wordvietnam.com
NIKO SAVVAS Online Editor niko@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER Staff Reporter francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
JULIE VOLA Staff Photographer julie@wordvietnam.com
MARK ALLAN Website & Graphic Designer mark@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC Layout Designer loc@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY Marketing vy@wordvietnam.com
JON ASPIN Staff Writer jon@wordvietnam.com
ADMINISTRATION BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com
TRANG LE Chief Accountant trang@wordvietnam.com
ADVERTISING BAO ROSS General Director bao@wordvietnam.com
TRINH BUI Sales Executive trinh@wordvietnam.com
CHAU GIANG Area Manager Hanoi giang@wordvietnam.com
DISTRIBUTION trinh@wordvietnam.com
SUBSCRIPTIONS trang@wordvietnam.com
For advertising enquiries please call Ms Bao on +84 938 609 689 or Ms Giang on +84 934 640 668 Special thanks to Huyen Tran, Dana McNairn, Karen Gay, Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, Family Medical Practice, Simon Stanley, Harry Hodge, Tae Jun Park, George Burchett, Trung Del, Kieran Crowe, Noey Neumark, Harris Spencer, Matt Dworzanczyk, Annalise Frank, Natalia Martinez, Jill Kester, Réhahn, Curtis King, Mai Thu Trang, Bao Zoan
JILL KESTER Contributing Writer A super-budget spa experience in Hanoi: go to Joma Cafe on Ly Quoc Su, buy a frozen mocha treat. Then proceed two doors to the left to the US$5 foot massage place where you will lean back in comfy plaid PJs, slurping away to the gentle snores of the customer in the chair next to you, while an attractive masseur tickles your toes. PS: You only get to wear the PJs if you arrive wearing a dress.
Word is a registered trademark. No content may be reproduced in any form without prior authorisation of the owners. © Word - Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
© Tất cả hình ảnh và nội dung trong Ấn phẩm này thuộc bản quyền của Ấn phẩm Word của C.Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh. Mọi sự sao chép không được phép sẽ bị xem là vi phạm luật Sở Hữu Trí Tuệ hiện hành của nhà nước Cộng Hòa Xã Hội Chủ Nghĩa Việt Nam.
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH & ẨM THỰC ISBN: 978-604-59-2904-9
6 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Nhà xuất bản Lao Động 175 Giảng Võ, Hà Nội ĐT: + 84 4 3851 5380 Fax: + 84 4 3851 5381 Chi nhánh phía Nam 85 Cách Mạng Tháng Tám, Q.1, TP. HCM ĐT: +84 8 3839 0970 Fax: +84 8 3925 7205 Email: cn–nxbld@vnn.vn
Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Võ Thị Kim Thanh Biên tập: Hồ Phương Lan Sửa bản in: Nick Ross Trình bày: Bao Ross Bìa: Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Công Ty CP TM–DV–QC–Truyền Thông Dương Huỳnh 87/21/6 Đường Số 4 Cư Xá Đô Thành, Phường 4, Q. 3, TP. HCM. ĐT: + 84 8 3838 6908 Fax: + 84 8 3838 6971 Email: info@wordvietnam.com Website: www.wordvietnam.com
In đến 15.000 cuốn, khổ 20.5 x 27cm In tại Công Ty TNHH MTV In Trần Phú 71 – 73 – 75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. HCM. www.tranphuprint.com Số ĐKKHXB: 99 - 2015 / CXBIPH / 41- 08 / LĐ QĐXB SỐ: 58 / QĐCN - LĐ. Ngày 01 / 07 / 2015. ISBN: 978-604-59-2904-9 SÁCH CHUYÊN QUẢNG CÁO In xong và nộp lưu chiểu Qúy III/2015.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 7
The
CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION / TẬP 7 2015 JULY 2015 NOT FOR SALE
I
t’s a well-tread, c. 2013 statistic: “Half of Vietnam’s colonial constructions have been demolished in the last decade.” And us expat journo types have latched onto it with aplomb — “Vietnam is changing! Daughters, hide your mothers’... birth-homes.” Never mind that all this urban renewal falls somewhere
on the judgment spectrum between “we don’t know how this makes us feel” and “gawdamn shame”. At a certain point we have to ask, what’s in it for us? This month we found out. Whether it was going from 100-year-old house to 300-year-old house in Duong Lam (The Old Houses of Duong Lam, p114) or getting a nice vantage of the city
via rooftop (Hacking the High-Rises, p44), our urban exploration details used these buildings as more than just backdrop. Which was one of the jokes we ended up cutting out of Vietnam’s Ugly Buildings (p50): “Nobody’s trying to build a McDonald’s on a UNESCO Heritage Site. And even if they were, what could people really use: another goddamn decaying
patina to backdrop their travel selfies, or Chicken McNuggets at 3am?” Which, if folks reading at home missed it, is SATIRE. So that’s it, we’re getting playful. Our cities aren’t museums; they’re evolving, changing things. And we get to play in them, as long as we can play nice. — Ed Weinberg, Managing Editor
Urbe
x
NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG
W OR DV IE TN AM .C OM
Prelude
THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Francis Xavier
Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam. No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.
Inbox
Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us at editor@wordvietnam.com — we’re at your fingertips. The Map is Back
Travel TRAVEL
DOMESTIC
The Expat’s Guide to Travelling with Dad
Glad to see you’ve finally returned to the maps you used to run (from June 2015). It means I can give your magazine out to people again not just as something to read, but as something to help them with directions. — PL
Though it had been a while since Ed Weinberg went on vacation with Dad, two father-son weeks reminded him what boys’ vacations are all about
Good idea to put the maps back in. I remember the days before Google. They were invaluable. Personally I prefer to have maps on paper, anyway. — JK
“I don’t know about your dads, but mine is the smartest man in the world” 112 | Word June 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | June 2015 Word | 113
Thanks Dad! I am truly honoured by your article (The Expat’s Guide to Travelling with Dad, p112, June 2015), and have sent it to Ed, Guido, Peter and Louie. Mom is kvelling about it too. — Dad
8 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
The Talk I like the new layout of your front section(from June 2015). It’s much clearer, much fresher, a lot less busy. But I don’t get the numbered captions. What’s that all about? To me it’s confusing. — MM
Dating in the Dark Nice issue last month (June 2015). I thought the Blind Date idea was both cheesy and interesting. The idea that dating completely changes when you’re no longer judging people by what they look like. — KS
Correction Word pulled a pretty big boner in last issue’s Sports Digest (p28, June 2015), accidentally using an image of rival club Hanoi Dragons in an article focusing on the Saigon Geckos Rugby Club. We apologise for this error — geckos quite obviously are not dragons. We have corrected this in the online version.
The Perfect Date The winner of our competition for a free stay and dinner at the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi was Van Dinh. Van we will be contacting you to give you your voucher!
Talk Lead
THE TALK
LEAD ARTICLE
Now You Can Buy From Jul. 1, foreigners can buy property in Vietnam. Here are the caveats
T
here’s big news on the “Are we really welcome here?” front this month: foreigners can now buy real estate. Over the years, we have bemoaned the fact that the vast majority of non-Vietnamese (except for naturalised Viet Kieu and a few other exceptions) cannot purchase houses or apartments in this country. From this month it all changes. So excited are the real estate companies that the emails have been flying out. One we received read as follows: From the new laws, foreigners will have the biggest opportunity to possess real estate assets in Vietnam, both to live and to invest. We would like to suggest some attractive projects: Sala (District 2), Villa Park (District 9) and in particular Vinhomes Central Park (Binh Thanh, which will be merged into District 1 in the future).
A Step Back We first picked up on the new law in December. Here’s an excerpt of what we wrote — the piece was published on wordvietnam.com. ********** According to the new amended housing law,
10 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
non-Vietnamese citizens will be able to own the property for a maximum of 50 years and enjoy the same rights to lease, transfer or sell the property as Vietnamese citizens. The law will also extend the rules that currently apply only to apartments. Now, foreign individuals and entities will be allowed to buy, receive or inherit apartments and houses in commercial projects, although not in areas that limit or ban foreigners. They will be able to buy a maximum of 30 percent of apartments in a block and 250 houses in a given ward. Individual foreigners will be able to extend their home ownership after 50 years, according to their need, and they may lease their property for any “purpose that is not banned by law”. However, foreign property owners will also be subject to Vietnam’s property taxes. The change is expected to give a well-needed boost to Vietnam’s real estate market. Although according to the Savills Property Price Index, residential real estate prices have stabilised over the past 12 months — in Hanoi they are only 2 percent above their level in the first quarter of 2009; in Ho Chi Minh City, prices are still 10 percent down on what they were five years ago. At the same time, restrictions — particularly the ‘commercial project’ restriction — means that foreigners still cannot freely buy property in Vietnam.
******** When this article was re-posted on social media in May, the naysayers stepped in and got negative. They missed the wider ramifications of opening up the property market to foreigners. With the imposition of restrictions — leasehold purchase only, a maximum amount of properties per ward or apartment building — Vietnam is protecting itself from the rampant capitalism of the West. In the UK, for example, anyone can buy property, regardless of nationality. There are no restrictions. With swathes of nonBritish investing in bricks and mortar in London, this has led to a house price boom in the country’s capital. The premium paid for living in London is now so high that a property there costs between five and seven times as much as its equivalent in Birmingham, the country’s second-largest city. By having their hands on the reins, Vietnam will avoid this. They will also avoid something else they dread — the loss of land to foreigners. What is clear is that this law change does offer an opportunity. But with foreigners encountering increasing issues with visas and work permits, it is unclear how many will bite. — Nick Ross
Big5 The
Visa-free entry to Vietnam, European football clubs, live music and a worldrenowned DJ
2 1
Hip Hip Hooray!
From Jul. 1 Every international border checkpoint in Vietnam Yes, we know the new visa rules for tourists aren’t exactly an event. But with two weeks visa-free entry now available to citizens of the UK, Spain, France, Italy and Germany — also known as the countries with the top football leagues in Europe — there is certainly something to celebrate. According to the media, the reason is to help boost flagging tourist numbers to Vietnam. According to us, everyone will still fly out to Thailand, but they might also just pop over to Vietnam for a couple of weeks before heading back to the nightlife, sea and sand of Southeast Asia’s best-loved party country.
2
Braids Thursday Jul. 16 Cargo Bar, HCMC
Platts apparently aren’t good enough for experimental pop trio, Braids, who will be playing Cargo Bar on Thursday Jul. 16. Hailing from a rather large country called Canada, and presently touring Asia on the back of their rather well acclaimed album, Deep In The Iris, Braids have been described “as mesmerizing and vertiginous as desire can be” by the New York Times and “one of the most exciting bands to emerge from Montreal’s disparate scene” by Stereogum. So, how would you describe them? Best to pop along on Jul. 16 and make your mind up on the day. For more info turn to page 20
AS Roma to Play Vietnam
3
Friday Jul. 24 My Dinh Stadium, Hanoi
Vietnam likes its football, especially when the country gets the chance to see big-name, big money players live. And with the new visa rules, what better time to catch Europe’s superstars than this summer? Following on from the national team’s drubbing by Arsenal in July 2013 — the French (oops!) team won 7-1 — the national squad will take on Italian heavyweights and Seria A runners up AS Roma on Jul. 24 at My Dinh Stadium in Hanoi. Arriving after a tour of Australia, this will be the second time AS Roma have tasted Vietnam’s hidden charm. Last year their U19 squad competed in a four-team tournament in Ho Chi Minh City’s Thong Nhat Stadium. To find out about tickets, keep your eyes on the announcements online. Word accepts no responsibility for anyone who’s tried to buy a ticket but failed or wants to buy a ticket and failed or who buys a ticket and finds their seat has been double sold (as happened to one Word writer when he went to see Vietnam vs. Brazil)
4
The Sky Blues Monday Jul. 11 My Dinh Stadium, Hanoi Following on from the heady, tightly contested match between the Vietnamese national team and AS Roma will be a second
Montreal-based experimental pop outfit, Braids
meet-up, this time with Premier League wannabes, Manchester City. Despite coming from the wrong side of Manchester, over the past few years the Sky Blues have performed biblical level miracles — they won the English Premier League title in 2013-2014 and finished a highly discreditable second in the season just gone. Expect the game with the Vietnam National Team on Jul. 27 at My Dinh Stadium to be closely fought. And if you want to purchase tickets, please don’t ask Word as we don’t know how to do it yet. Our guess is to head directly to My Dinh Stadium and work it out from there, although don’t be surprised if it’s a wasted trip.
5
DJ Zedd
Friday Aug. 7 Rach Chiec Driving Range, HCMC Ok, so let’s get the accolades out the way first. Grammy award-winning artist. Tick. Chart topping RussianGerman musician. Tick. A bit of a pretty boy. Tick. Yes, we knew you’d work it out. Russian turntable guru and producer DJ Zedd will be performing a single show in Ho Chi Minh City at Rach Chiec Golf Driving Range, District 2 on Friday Aug. 7. But this one, we have been told, is likely to be pretty pop-u-lar. So, get your tickets in advance by clicking on zeddhcmc. com. Yes, they’ve even got a website created just for the show. Now, if that’s not an accolade, we don’t know what is. For more info, mosey on over to page 20
DJ Zedd is more than just a pretty boy
Briefings Hanoi
A Day to Remember
This year’s ASEAN Pride festival pulled out the stops. It even featured something called ‘music’
12 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
A
SEAN Pride 2015: Celebrating Family doesn’t rank among the bigger music festivals in Southeast Asia. But it does stand out as a regional beacon for lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender pride. Or so says Dan Dockery, a co-founder of CAMA, who helped organise the event. Hosted at The American Club on Jun. 19, this year’s ASEAN festival combined music and advocacy. Both were used in a dual celebration of the LGBT community and the 20th anniversary of diplomatic
relations between Vietnam and the US. While last year’s event focused on freedom of expression, this year celebrated the placement of LGBT individuals in families. “In the US people differ on what makes a family,” said US Ambassador to Vietnam Ted Osius, taking the stage with his husband, Clayton Bond, between acts. “What makes a family is love… Along with that comes acceptance by our families of who you are.”
A Safe Haven Tucked away outside the concert
Photos by Trung Del
arena, a dozen organisations gathered around tables in a tent to spread awareness about sexuality, gender rights, safe sex and other issues. The intiMate Initiative, Viet Pride, the Institute for Studies of Society, Economy and Environment (iSEE), Adopt an HIV Child, the zine Hanoi Panic and others handed out stickers and leaflets, and answered visitors’ questions. Yet ASEAN Pride was more than just a party. By its very nature, the event was something meaningful for all the LGBT people who stepped through
the door. According to Pham Vu Ngoc Huyen, who helped man the table for Viet Pride, the festival was a safe haven for those who have faced stares, slurs, a lack of understanding, dirty looks and worse when they have entered the outside world. Added Anh, a civil engineer living in Hanoi, “[ASEAN Pride] is important for young people because when they are unstable they can find some support. I can be very comfortable here. There are people around who are the same as me.”
The Music San Francisco-based indie folk band Thao & The Get Down Stay Down headlined the concert with their earnest, twangy melodies. US-born frontwoman Thao Nguyen was visiting Vietnam for the first time. To Lam & The Mix, who competed on Vietnam’s Got Talent, covered pop songs like S&M by Rhianna with sharp choreography, whips and glitter. The lineup also included Yellow Fang of Thailand, Vietnamese singer Huong Giang Idol and OJ Law of Malaysia. — Annalise Frank
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 13
Briefings
Photos by Julie Vola
Hanoi
Circle K is Coming
D
ear Hanoi, We’ve decided to send this letter as a courtesy, as we figure we’ll give you our perspective on a little trend that might just be coming your way. It’s the convenience store trend, and it’s one that has taken over our city like a plague. We thought we’d warn you about it in advance. When we say plague, though, we don’t mean it in an existentialist, Albert Camus kind of way. There’s nothing existential about the convenience store, and there’s no cholera here... although after a few cheap beers both purchased and swilled down onsite, you may beg to differ. No, we’re just referencing the wildfire way in which the humble convenience store has taken over the streets of Saigon. There are three main players — Circle K, Family Mart and B’s Mart — which fine folk like yourselves might well appreciate. They’ve created a glitzy, aircon place that sells cheap beer and cheap, Vietnamese-style fast food, typically with a decent-sized seating section. They also stock the usual junk food and soft drinks you can buy in convenience stores the world over.
14 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Time to turn out the lights? The city’s youth and English teachers have taken to this new format like a mosquito takes to sweet blood. They’ve been given something to bite, and they’ve bitten. At all times of the day they can conveniently head down to a 24-hour convenience store and have their fill of all things cheap and nice. And to add to the trend, the convenience store chains in Saigon are now at war. A Circle K opens, a Family Mart and possibly a B’s Mart opens next door. World domination is on the cards here. We reckon even Rupert Murdoch would be proud.
Resistance is Feasible Why, you may ask, are we telling you this now? We know you are happy with your bia hoi and tra chanh and tea stands and hole-in-the-wall bars and mama and papa convenience stores. We know you like your trendy cafés and your drinking halls. And yes, we know you’ve already got Hapro Mart and Shop & Go. But, you see, two months ago we spotted a Circle K, a glitteringly new Circle K in Cau Giay. We were shocked. More than that, we even got online to find out if there were any
more. But no, it seems that the Risk players behind the Circle K just don’t want to go public yet. We reckon they are just trying out the concept before investing and going full whack. Now, Hanoi is a different kettle of variables to upstart Saigon. And we know full well that a business that is successful in Saigon might not make the cut in the capital. So, this letter could quite well be redundant. But if the big boys have their way, then you too could have your own epidemic. Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf, Highlands and Starbucks have managed it, with their faceless, international coffee shops. So maybe now is the time for the convenience store chains to join the club. Down here, we have no idea what you’re thinking. It’s up to you, whether you embrace or treat the likes of Circle K with disdain. But we have issued you a warning. And if the very thought of it is enough to make you want to run a thousand miles away, then for the sake of economy, please don’t forget to turn the lights out. — A concerned neighbour
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 15
Building of the Month
A
few months ago, an artist collective called Art Labor took their vision to the peeling colonial paint of the former Clinique Saint-Paul. The Adventure of Color Wheel was a collaborative art project between the art collective and the young, sight-challenged wards of the eye hospital which now operates within the building’s walls. The paintings and murals that came out of it were intended to change the atmosphere of this colonial relic, as well as expand the visual worlds of those spending time within.
The curving, Art Deco-influenced fusion project has stood in its location on Dien Bien Phu Street for nearly 80 years, a product of influential Saigon-based architect Louis Chauchon. For the historicallyminded, it’s part of the built environment that defines Saigon. The curving lines of its wings seem to connect with the outstanding contours of pre-war Saigon’s Modernist era. And yet, if the exterior of the building still retains the boldness of its origins, the interior had come to resemble the claustrophobic drabness of the country’s other medical establishments. That is, until Art Labor’s splashes of pastel on French doors and hallway ceilings breathed new life into the building’s insides. If there is to be a future in such relics of the colonial past, it will take such repurposing on a human level — from the inside out. — Ed
Weinberg
16 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
y t i C h n l i a M it i p h s C o o H H e e y Th E
Photo by Alex Garel
Sports Digest
Vietnam’s Golden Girl
I
From the sidelines, Harry Hodge sizes up Vietnam’s month in sports
t’s hard to put a price on success, but Vietnamese teenager Nguyen Thi Anh Vien is set to cash in big time following a record-breaking performance at the Southeast Asian (SEA) Games in Singapore last month. Vien, 19, won 10 medals, including eight golds in the women’s 200m backstroke, 200m breaststroke, 200m butterfly, 200m freestyle, 200m individual medley, 400m freestyle, 400m individual medley,
18 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
and 800m freestyle categories. According to Thanh Nien, she is due to receive more than VND600 million (US$27,750), with VND485 million (US$22,250) from the General Department of Sports to recognise the feat, as well as some VND120 million (US$5,500) for breaking eight records. She broke the games record in the 800m freestyle event and followed that up with another mark in the 400m individual medley less than an hour later. Vien is one of the most prolific
swimmers in the nation’s history. She was the first female Vietnamese swimmer to win a medal at the Asian Games, notching a bronze in the medley at last year’s event in South Korea. She owns national records in 14 disciplines. She currently trains in Florida in the United States, and has deferred a swimming scholarship at the University of Arizona for a year in order to focus on training for the 2016 Olympics in Brazil. Corporate backers have also
Photos provided by Nguyen Quang Liem
Not all Happy News from SEA Games Several cyclists and archers from Vietnam, Singapore and Malaysia suffered food poisoning on Jun. 11 at the ongoing Southeast Asian Games in Singapore, according to Vietnam News. The Vietnamese athletes who suffered food poisoning were mainly cyclists. However, their names haven’t been revealed. This incident has got the Singapore SEA Games Organising Committee (Singsoc) and leaders of sport delegations very worried. According to straitstimes.com, the Singapore SEA Games Organising Committee (Singsoc) said in a statement that it had received a report about some players suffering from a bout of diarrhoea. Singsoc said it was investigating the matter with the relevant authorities and reinforcing hygienic practices.
Youngsters Score National Title Hanoi’s Ngoc Lam Secondary School scored one goal in each half to beat Phu Do 2-0 in the National U13 Student Football Festival final last month in the nation’s capital, writes Vietnam News. Tran Dinh Thai opened the scoring in the first half — it was the only chance that his side created in the face of stormy attacks by Phu Do. Phan Tan Dat doubled the tally towards the end of the second half, making him one of two top scorers in the tournament, with 10 goals.
Set to Cash In offered the Can Tho native an apartment in Ho Chi Minh City and unlimited flights for two years on Jetstar Pacific, as well as motorbikes and smart phones for her accomplishments. Not bad for a girl who was taught to swim in a muddy canal by her grandfather at a young age.
Notable Performances Women’s boxing will certainly enjoy a heightened profile with gold-medal performances from Le Thi Bang in the women’s bantam weight 54kg category and Nguyen Thi Yen in the women’s flyweight 51kg class.
Sprinter Le Trong Hinh won gold in the men’s 200m sprint, which marked a turning point for Vietnam, as it was the first time a Vietnamese runner tasted victory in this category. And while it wasn’t a gold, the heavily followed men’s national soccer team took home a bronze with a convincing 5-0 victory over Indonesia. All told, Vietnam finished third in the regional standings with 73 gold medals, 53 silvers and 60 bronzes. At the top of the tally were Thailand with 95 golds, 83 silvers and 69 bronzes and host Singapore with 84 golds, 73 silvers and 102 bronzes.
French Triathlete Triumphant at Ho Tram Beach Matthieu Ginestet of France won first place in the stamina category at the annual Le Fruit Off-Road Triathlon last month, which saw more than 200 participants in six events from 19 countries this year. Competing in the stamina category for people aged 16 and over, Ginestet took two hours and 36 minutes to complete the triathlon, held at Ho Tram Beach in southern Vietnam. The event included a 750m open water swim, a 40km mountain bike ride and a 10km off-road run. Christian tes upda Schussmueller from Sendout yourp or ab g grou @ Germany and Alex in ry Holroyd–Smith of the sportnt to har .com eve vietnam UK placed second and word third.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 19
ToDo list HCMC
The places to go, the things to do. What’s on this month in Ho Chi Minh City
Dreamy Lady by Bui Tien Tuan. Lacquer, gold leaf on wood
After School comes back to Cargo for offering number five
Ninja Tunes DJ and Producer, Daedelus, to play at Observatory
1.
2.
3.
1
One Country Craig Thomas Gallery, Q1 Until Jul. 25 Craig Thomas Gallery is celebrating its sixth anniversary with One Country, a group exhibition featuring the works of 15 Vietnamese young and mid-career visual artists. Vietnam’s three most prominent fine arts academies are located in Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. Aspiring artists tend to gravitate to the institution that is nearest to their hometown and to continue their career in one of the three cities after their graduation. The result is a divided Vietnamese national art scene that leads to a
20 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
sum that is less than the whole of its parts. In 2011, Craig Thomas Gallery began introducing a mix of young Hanoi artists into their regular programme of exhibitions. Aiming to contribute to the creation of a single Vietnamese art scene, the gallery is now integrating the work of Hue-based artists into their programmes over the coming months and years. The One Country collection — featuring works from artists based in all three centres — is the beginning of that process. Craig Thomas Gallery is at 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 or online at cthomasgallery.com
Independence Day Riverside Apartments, Q2 Saturday Jul. 4 The American Chamber of Commerce, AmCham, is inviting members, friends and family to enjoy a celebration of the traditional July 4th American holiday at Riverside on Jul. 4. With a projected turnout of over 700 hundred people, the celebration will include a late morning to early afternoon party of fun, food, and entertainment. The all-you-caneat, all-you-can-drink entry deal costs VND1.1 million for adults, VND350,000 for children aged two to 12 and VND350,000 for
Word is working together with Score-Tech apparel company to create 10 limited edition sports t-shirts in a range of sizes: 2 family helpers. Under twos are admitted free of charge. To register, please click on amchamvietnam.com/events and then head to the page for July 4th. Alternatively, contact the AmCham Events Team on 3824 3562 / 3824 3563 or email amcham.events@ amchamvietnam.com. Riverside is at 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, HCMC and the event runs from 11.30am to 5pm
After School Cargo Back Stage, Q4 Saturday Jul. 4 Cargo is continuing its After School series this month with a bash on the evening of Jul. 4, perfect for anyone wishing to extend their US Independence Day celebrations into the night. Providing the music will be Kejax, Haylie Hoang, Crown Bandits, NOF & Romelouse, while the beer is going at a special price of VND50,000 a go or VND200,000 for five. There’s even a deal on cocktail jugs. Doors are at 8pm and entrance is VND100,000 (VND20,000 with student ID). Cargo is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Daedelus Observatory, Q4 Saturday Jul. 4 The local beat and bass authority outfit is back at The Observatory on Jul. 4 to present Ninja Tunes producer and DJ, Daedelus, on his return trip to Saigon. Expect a live performance that will shake the floor, roof and your senses big time. Support comes from Jase (the Beats Saigon) and JIN (S.D. Records). The event kicks off at 10pm and entrance is VND150,000 (VND100,000 for students with ID). The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check the event online at facebook. com/theobservatoryhcmc
XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL The t-shirts will only be made up once and will never be available again. So, if you want to get your mitts on something unique, here's your chance. All you need to do is answer the following question, tell us your size and we will put your answer in a hat for a prize draw:
WHICH YEAR WAS THE FIRST ISSUE OF WORD PUBLISHED? A) 2003 B) 2008 C) 2013
The Outcast Farmer’s Market Saigon Outcast, Q2 Sunday Jul. 5 Saigon Outcast and La Holista are once again teaming up to bring us the second edition of their Farmer’s Market on Sunday Jul. 5. Sponsored by City Farm, the three parties are welcoming 3
Please send your answers to vy@wordvietnam.com by Wednesday Jul. 15 expressing what size t-shirt you are and which of the two t-shirt styles you would prefer.
For more info on Score Tech click on score-tech.net wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 21
ToDo list HCMC
1. 2.
The iconic work of Keith Haring
Heartbeat’s latest big name to come to Saigon is UK DJ Ed Davenport
1 farmers, ranchers, fishermen, food artisans, flower shops, home made food stands, honey sellers, free range eggs providers, baked products shops, organic beer producers, kombucha makers, fresh juices experts, cheese lovers and organic coffee producers to their ranks to bring together a unique range of products difficult to find elsewhere. With the first rendition an amazing success — it hosted more than 40 vendors and drew in 900 visitors, expect the Farmer’s Market take two with its food, drink and live entertainment to be even more of a hit.
22 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Saigon Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, HCMC. The event kicks off at 9.30am and entrance is VND20,000. For more info click on facebook.com/outcastsfarmersmarket
Local Flavor Observatory, Q4 Saturday Jul. 11 The night dedicated to showcasing the DJ talent present in Saigon, this month’s Local Flavor on Jul. 11 features house man 1DAN, groovegiver Starchild and rising sound force Maraphoria. Entrance is free before midnight and VND100,000 after. The
Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check the event online at facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc
Braids to Play Loud Minority Cargo Back Stage, Q4 Thursday Jul. 16 Cargo’s new back stage venue will provide the perfect intimate setting for the Braids, a “wondrous experimental pop outfit” from Canada. Dealing with some heavy material in their latest work, Loud Minority is delighted to announce its next show headliners. Three albums in, the Braids will bring to
the stage “an ethereal beauty that enchants while depicting a reality that resonates in equal measure”. If the New York Times calls these guys mesmerizing, we think this should be well worth a look. Tickets are available on the door for VND300,000 or in advance for VND250,000 from ticketbox. vn. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Canvas & Wine Vinspace, Q2 Thursday Jul. 16
2
The latest in the Vinspace Canvas & Wine series, in this session the team at Vinspace look into the work of one of New York’s most iconic artists — Keith Haring. Haring’s bold and brilliant approach to painting brought worldwide fame and recognition to both him and his charity work. The fee to join the 6.30pm to 9pm event is US$38 (VND830,000) and includes two glasses of wine and all painting / drawing materials. Vinspace is at 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, HCMC. For more info email
info@vin-space.com or click on vin-space.com
Heartbeat Presents Ed Davenport Observatory, Q4 Friday Jul. 17 As the underground music scene continues to develop in Ho Chi Minh City, increasing numbers of critically acclaimed artists keep coming in. The UK’s Ed Davenport is the latest in a long line. Cutting his teeth in London (where else?) and now resident in electronic music hot-house Berlin, we expect this to be another late one in District 4. With support from Chris Wolter (GER), B.A.X (VN) and Live Visuals from EROL (SWE), it’s another international lineup to keep young Saigon and the young at heart up all night. Tickets are available on the door but entry is free from 9pm and VND150,000 after 11pm. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check the event online at facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 23
ToDo list HCMC
The places to go, the things to do. All on this month in Ho Chi Minh City and beyond
Alex Metric Cargo Bar Saturday Jul. 18 London-based, genre-hopping producer Metric enjoys an international reputation as a globetrotting DJ calling at super-clubs and huge festivals alike. A remixer with a beyond-enviable client list, and a solo artist in his own right, Metric mixes it up like few others, the emphasis: we’re all here, we’re all now, and this is life for the next few moments. So might as well make it awesome. Producing for the likes of Snow Patrol, The Infadels and Robbie Williams, Metric’s musical output is accessible while pushing at the perceived boundaries of ‘mainstream’ dance. The man himself said of his collaboration with Steve Angello on 2011’s, Open Your Eyes, “That track couldn’t be any more ‘me’”. Tickets are available from ticketbox. vn or on the door. Prices to be advised. Cargo Bar is at 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC
Rork Observatory, Q4 Saturday Jul. 18 A pioneer of the French house scene, and a figure who has featured on the bill of celeb parties across the planet, Rork will be packing his deep understanding of what makes people move right into the soul of the night. The French house guru will hit Observatory on Jul. 18. Support comes from Nic Ford (Millions Of Moments, The Obs) and Hibiya Line (Cliché, The Obs). Entrance is free before midnight and VND100,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check the event online at facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc
Mike Simonetti Observatory, Q4 Friday Jul. 24 A major figurehead in the creation and evolution of underground dance music and culture, Mike Simonetti
24 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Globetrotting, genre-hopping producer, Alex Metric, to play at Cargo
has been at the helm of some major labels such as Italians Do It Better and now 2MR. On Jul. 24 he’ll be bringing his two decades of experience in house, techno and the electronic movement straight to the Saigon dance floor. Support comes from Nic Ford (Millions Of Moments, The Obs) and Hibiya Line (Cliché, The Obs). Entrance is free before midnight and VND150,000 after. The Observatory is at 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC. Check the event online at facebook.com/ theobservatoryhcmc
Zedd: The True Colors Tour Rach Chiec Golf Driving Range, Q2 Friday Aug. 7 The only ‘Zedd’ we know is dead,
but by all accounts there’s another one, and he’s a multi-platinum selling, Grammy award winning artist, DJ and producer. And he’s coming to town. Playing at the unlikely venue of a golf driving range, Zedd’s visit is part of his True Colors Asia tour, stopping off in ‘Nam before he heads further afield to The Phillippines, Thailand and Japan. With pop genius electro trance hits like Beautiful Now, we’re confident this one will keep a few of you up come August. Tickets to the True Colors Zone are VND550,000 with tickets for the VIP area yet to be released. This is likely to be a big, big gig. So, get your tickets in advance. For more information click on zeddhcmc.com
IN
Beauty in one handy-sized box
Just HCMC
New salad joints, bars and toyshops, new services, make up for men and all the other odd bits and bobs that pop up in our Inbox Beauty in a Box
Common Room Project
For many, the concept of a beauty regime is a change of underwear and a splash of cold water, but if yours isn’t, Ma Belle Box might just be what you’re after. They’ll send you a box of travel-size (sometimes full size) beauty products to your door, along with “a special beauty guide to help you learn special beauty tips and advice.” It’s all the rage right now and it all happens online at mabellebox.com, where you can subscribe, fill in your beauty profile and order your first Ma Belle beauty box. Did we say ‘beauty’ enough? For more information, check out Ma Belle Box on Facebook, Instagram or at mabellebox.com
Not quite a hostel, hotel, B&B or homestay, the Common Room Project is a 48-bed boutique living space opened in Saigon’s District 5. Believing that it’s the people who make the experience of travelling, they bill themselves as a “home for the modern traveller” with a range of accommodation options. They’ve designed a cool communal space for positive people, whether they be Saigon residents or not, to “meet, share and create meaningful connections.” Judging by the reviews and smiling faces on their Facebook page, you’d have to say their doing it well. The Common Room Project is at 80/8 Nguyen Trai, Q5,
HCMC. For more information visit commonroomproject.com
UP Station Their Facebook page might say you can “get relationship” here, but we’re sure it’s some kind of typo, because from what we can tell UP Station is all about dancing, hip-hop, Latino and having a damn good time. Only open for a couple of months, this venue just a little off Hai Ba Trung in District 1 has been making the fine folk of Saigon shake it like a polaroid picture every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday night without fail. If you like to dance, give UP Station a whirl. UP Station is on the 2nd Floor, 2B Thi Sach, Q1, HCMC Check out their Facebook page at facebook.com/upstationvn
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 25
IN
Just HCMC
New salad joints, bars and toyshops, new services, make up for men and all the other odd bits and bobs that pop up in our Inbox
GreenS New Location Fans of quality wholesome salads and tasty soups might already be aware that GreenS has moved into District 1. They sent us a note describing a ‘Grand Opening Day’, but we think it’s already happened otherwise we would have been there. Regardless, the menu hasn’t changed, but they do have a new location. So go in and enjoy a healthy meal. For once, your body will thank you. Greens is now at 158/11 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC. For more information go to greensvn.com
Asia Next Level
1
Open since May, the guys at Asia Next Level are a gym specialising in boxing, conditioning and other martial arts including muay thai, self defense, grappling and MMA. It’s already attracted a good mix of local and expat clientele, and their new digs in District 4 feature a floor-toceiling ring, ‘battle’ ropes and all the usual cross training equipment. They also put an emphasis on camaraderie, calories and team motivation, not what sneakers you wear. Headed by muay thai veteran Jonathon Haucourt, with boxing coach Lee Simmons and self-defence expert Bruno ever present, Next Level workouts really can take your fitness to the next level. Asia Next Level is at Block B, Floor 2, 348 Ben Van Don, Q4, HCMC Check out their videos and programme at facebook.com/AsiaNextLevel
VietJetAir flies to Seoul Everyone’s favourite (sic!) budget airline is pushing on the international front. And their latest aviational coup? A daily return flight from Tan Son Nhat to Incheon International Airport in Seoul taking off for the first time on Nov. 7. It’s an overnight job — at least on the way there — with the 00.15 flight arriving in South Korea at 7.25am. The return trip is a bit more user friendly with an 11.20 departure time and an arrival back in Vietnam at 14.50. For info, go to vietjetair.com
L’Usine to Your Door With increasing competition — for a long time L’Usine was a one of its kind — the hip café, shop and restaurant is upping the ante. Now in cahoots with delivery website foodpanda.vn, L’Usine’s food can be delivered directly to your door. You’re not going to get the same ambience that has held this lifestyle café combo in good stead, but if you live in District 1, District 3,
26 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
2 District 4, District 5, Binh Thanh, District 2, District 7 and Phu Nhuan, everything else will be taken care of. Food Panda even has an app — click on foodpanda.vn/contents/apps to get delivery services on your phone
Sharper than a Knife Australian-reared, 50-percent-of-thetime, Vietnam-based music promoter Dagger Wolf can be accused of many things. But one thing he can’t be accused of is being short of ideas. His latest venture is the April 2016 launch of, yes you guessed it, DAGGER WOLF MAN-CUP. Here’s what the man with a name
that even Slash would be proud of has to say: That’s right a whole make up range dedicated for men only!! (girls will be wanting to wear it like our T-shirts the day after.....). Melbourne-based the range is designed for all men, shapes sizes and colours. Thinking now, in the future will girls be saying to each other “OMG you have to see him without makeup????” Or “NO, check him out with make up, incredible”. The range is designed for all men, shapes and sizes. To keep up to date on the world of Dagger Wolf and the development of MAN-CUP, follow Dagger on Facebook.
1.
The team at Asia Next Level. Not be messed with
One of GreenS’s healthy salad offerings
Party Inc, serving all your party needs
Courtesy of Food Panda, L’Usine now delivers direct to your door
2.
3.
Hamleys in London’s Regent Street. Now in Phu My Hung
4.
5.
3
birthdays, we would run around town the entire month before the party looking for the right materials,” she says. “We then had to colour, paint, cut and glue to create pom-poms, paper fans and party hats. Pulling together one party took 10 times the effort and time here than it did in the U.S. So, I thought, why not make party decorations easier?” Thus, Party Inc was born. Stocking everything you’d ever want to throw a party, the showroom is hidden away in the warehouse area behind the fence in the Vinalink building. It’s a challenge to find, but one that rewards those who find it. And it might just solve all those party throwing conundrums we know you have. Party Inc is at 145-147 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC or online at partyinc.co
Hamleys Enters the Vietnam Market
5
Motown Gastropub Gastropubs are all the rage in the UK. And apparently they are also the rage in a place called Motown. If you’re confused, then look no further than the recently opened beer club-style Motown Gastropub (158/9 Nguyen Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC) in Saigon’s banking district and stockbroker belt. Serving up ‘Motown’ favourites such as the Coney Island chili dog (VND105,000) and tequila lime prawns (VND190,000) as well as the likes of burgers, Italian meatballs, loaded potato skins, lamb sausage and Motown fries,
World-famous British toy shop, Hamleys, will be opening its first store in Vietnam this summer at VivoCity. Established in 1760, the 800sqm, two-level shop will be the largest toy shop in Vietnam. Including thousands of safety4 and-quality-approved, imported toys and all of Hamley’s iconic features including opportunities for children to play and on-site toy demonstrations, expect the arrival of this shopping institution to shake up the toy market in Vietnam. With toy safety and quality key features of the Hamleys’ product mix, according to Jade Le, Hamleys Vietnam COO, the toys on offer will be similar to the London store, but adjusted to the local market. “The customer will be able to find an extensive range of products that are exclusively designed for Hamleys,” she says, “as well as a carefully chosen range from international brands to complete this is comfort food and lots of our whole product mix.” draft beer in a pleasant, bare-brick She adds, “[We are targeting wall setting. people] of all ages, children and Sound familiar? adults — at the end of the day, Find out more by clicking on everyone is a child at heart and facebook.com/motowngastropubHCMC we believe that no matter the age, every person who walks into Party Inc Hamleys will be pleased with the How often have you thrown a products and the store experience.” party and thought, “Where the hell Expect everything from the do I get glow sticks?” And has it smallest low-priced gadgets like dawned on you that cold beer and yoyos or iconic British stationery, to BBQ is no longer enough to amaze trampolines or even drones. your guests? The owner of new For more info, click on facebook.com/ District 4 venture, Party Inc, had hamleysvietnam or visit hamleys.com. exactly the same revelations. vn. VivoCity is at 1058 Nguyen Van “For my friends’ children’s Linh, Q7, HCMC
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 27
overscene HCMC
thebike shop 2 year anniversary
Photos by Kyle Phanroy The Bike Shop celebrated its second anniversary with food, drink and an inordinate amount of talk about all things cycling
28 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
mma prodigy event
Photos by Jon Aspin Vietnamese celebrities including Johnny "The Rebel" Tri Nguyen and 'Crazy Lucky' star Hieu Hien turned out for Lien Phong Gym's MMA Prodigy Event at their ring in Phuoc Kien ward, Q7. Much mirth and a whole lot of fighting broke out.
thao & the get down stay down
Photos by Ed Weinberg “I believe in transparency, I believe in honesty, so I have to tell you — this skirt keeps opening up in the back. That’s what I keep doing behind my back. I’m con gai dang hoang (I’m a good girl).” — Thao Nguyen
If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
Southern Off Road Club
Photos by Jon Aspin Things got dirty when more than 80 competitors from the Southern Off Road Club took part in the 2015 All Terrain Vehicles Open which was held at Vienna Historical Park, Q9 and sponsored by Club Car Sports.
ToDo
listHanoi From foie gras dinners to installations and classical Vietnamese music, there’s a lot going on this month in the capital
The American Independence Day will take place at yes, you guessed it, The American Club
Famed Indonesian indie artist, Gedi Robi
1.
2.
1
Rougie Foie Gras Dinner
Independence Day
Sofitel Metropole Legend Friday Jul. 3
The American Club, Hoan Kiem Saturday Jul. 4
The name Rougié has long been associated with exclusive foie gras. Introduced to Europe by Christopher Colombus in the 15th century, it quickly became a rare delicacy among high-ranking people of the old regime — by the 19th century foie gras became an integral part of French culinary and cultural heritage. On Friday Jul. 3, Rougié Foie Gras will be served at the L’Orangerie of the Metropole Hanoi courtesy of French Guest Chef, Remi Verrier and the hotel’s Chef de Cuisine Olivier Genique. The menu will feature five wines specially paired for each of the five courses. If you are a fan of foie gras, this one is DEFINITELY for you. The cost per person is VND2.2 million ++. To book, contact Ms. Hanh on (04) 3826 6919 ext. 8200 to reserve your seats. Space is limited
The American Club is the venue for this year’s celebration of American Independence Day on Jul. 4. Billed as an event that will include live music, circus, games, contests, lucky draw, food drinks and fun, the AmCham-sponsored celebration costs VND500,000 for adults and VND250,000 for children from three to 12 years old. Under threes go free of charge. It’s an all you can eat, all you can drink affair. So, compared to the equivalent party in Saigon, this is a pretty good deal. The party kicks off at 4pm. To book your tickets call the AmCham office on (04) 3934 2790. The American Club is at 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
30 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Gedi Robi CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Thursday Jul. 9 Gede Robi Supriyanto ventures to Vietnam for the first time. The lead
guitarist and vocalist with top indie Indonesian band Navicula, he will be travelling with Joe Cummings of Love Bone and funk bassist, Daniel Eiland. His aim is to share his music, while meeting and collaborating with local musicians. “The collaboration between great musicians becomes a conversation that takes place between artist and audience,” says Gedi. “The energy goes both ways and it is in this space created by sound that the unraveling of boundaries takes place.” For more information on Gedi Robi Supriyanto, click on gederobi.com. Doors are at 8pm and entrance cost is to be confirmed. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
Junior Master Chef? Crowne Plaza West Hanoi, My Dinh Jul. 11, 25; Aug. 15, 29; Sep. 12, 26 In an attempt to introduce the younger food enthusiast into the world of top quality cuisine, Crowne Plaza West Hanoi has opened cooking classes for kids. Set to run throughout the
2
The Hanoian Trio & Friends Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday Jul. 17
summer, the classes will create the opportunity for the younger generation to experience a culinary adventure and show their talented cooking skills. Covering everything from traditional Vietnamese food like spring rolls to a wide variety of international cuisines, such as sushi and cupcakes, all lessons will taught by the property’s executive chefs. To add to the excitement, after each class is completed, the title Crowne Junior Master Chef will be awarded to the child who cooks the best dish. This accolade will come with a voucher for a buffet for two people at Lackah Restaurant. The classes cost VND 500,000 per kid (under 15 years old) and include a buffet dinner and a soft drink. They run from 3pm to 5pm twice a month until September. To enroll, please contact (04) 6270 6688 or email sales@ crowneplazawesthanoi.com. Crowne Plaza is at 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh 2, Tu Liem, Hanoi
Hanoian Trio & Friends will be bringing music lovers of Hanoi a great evening of fusion jazz on Jul. 17 with pieces written by both its members and wellknown composers of the jazz world. Founded in 2014, the Hanoian Trio consists of pianist Tran Luu Hoang, cellist Ha Mien and oboist Kien Cuong. Since their first concert at Manzi early 2014, the group has extended their member list as well as their music genres. They have played a wide range of genres from works by J. S. Bach and Vivaldi to contemporary jazz, world music and work composed by the group’s members — Luu Hoang and Kien Cuong. Entrance is free of charge and the event kicks off at 8pm. However, the charge for the first drink is VND200,000 — this is to support the artists and organizational costs. Due to limited seating, please pre-register via manzihanoi@gmail. com before 5pm on Wednesday Jul. 15. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 31
ToDo
listHanoi From foie gras dinners to installations and classical Vietnamese music, there’s a lot going on this month in the capital
Disorientation Goethe Insitut, Ba Dinh Jul. 21 to Jul. 26 The photographic work of Matthias Meyer will be on display at the Goethe Institut towards the end of July. Entitled Disorientation, A Small Paris in Hanoi, in 2011 Meyer used a series of double exposures to marry the spirit of Hanoi and Paris based on a combination of negative space, colour and contrast. Through the use of different media and tools, he created a selection of imaginary landscapes, a twinning of both cities in a different light. Says the artist: “The freedom and liberty to experiment with multiple techniques to create my cityscape view of Hanoi was intoxicating. I couldn’t see my Hanoi-Paris connection right away in front of me, but already at the start I could feel that secret parts were looming around the corner and were just waiting to be appreciated and discovered.” The exhibition runs from 9am to 7pm from Jul. 21 to Jul. 26 and entrance is free of charge. The Goethe Institut is at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
1
32 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
2
Prism, a sound and video installation, will come to Manzi on Jul. 26
Images from the exhibition, Disorientation, by Matthias Meyer
Photo by Trung Del
1.
Queer Disco in May was as charged as ever
2.
3.
3
Prism
Those Were The Days
Queer Disco
Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Sunday Jul. 26
Manzi Art Space, Ba Dinh Friday Jul. 31
CAMA ATK, Hai Ba Trung Friday Jul. 31
Prism is a multi-media sound and video installation project that explores the relationship between bodies, shifting landscapes, and cultural memory in Vietnam. The collaborative work of Patricia Nguyen, Ly Hoang Ly and John Lee, through an embodied experience attending to the sense of sight, sound and tactile navigation, Prism offers an experience that challenges the viewer to question the relationship between notions of memory and amnesia, home and displacement, and construction and destruction. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh. The installation will run only on Jul. 26
Manzi presents Those Were the Days on Jul. 31, a series of acoustic music shows featuring the best traditional singers and musicians of Hanoi. Curated by composer Vu Nhat Tan and artist Dam Minh, the series will showcase the core values of Hanoi’s culture, both history and human, to its citizens. Entrance is free of charge and the event kicks off at 8pm. However, the charge for the first drink is VND200,000 — this is to support the artists and organizational costs. Due to limited seating, please preregister via manzihanoi@gmail.com before 5pm on Wednesday Jul. 29. Manzi is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh
Over the past 12 months, Queer Disco has been getting quite a following, and thanks to its glam, poppy music and no-hold-barred party atmosphere, it is no surprise. To celebrate a year of bring all that is not mainstream to the capital, Queer Disco are teaming up with Viet Pride to bring a night of unrivalled fun. The details have yet to be announced, but if you keep your eye on the CAMA ATK Facebook page, you can get yourself up to date. For more information go CAMA ATK’s Facebook page. Doors are at 8pm and entrance cost is to be confirmed. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 33
IN
Just Hanoi
Mercure Hoi An Royal, the latest upscale resort to come to Hoi An
A new mid-scale Vietnamese restaurant opens in West Lake
Vu Tuyet Anh, a beneficiary of a School on the Boat sponsorship programme, in front of her floating house
3.
Mercure Hoi An Royal Accor, the largest operator of international hotels in Vietnam and Asia Pacific, has opened its sixth hotel in Central Vietnam, Mercure Hoi An Royal. Set in the heart of town, the newly refurbished 96-room boutique hotel combines cultural authenticity with the full range of facilities. The hotel offers 42 Standard rooms, 40 Superior rooms, and 14 Junior suites. The elegant interiors exhibit traditional flower motifs and vivid local colours with an air of vintage chic, while the luxury Junior suites have private terraces with direct access to the hotel’s brand new swimming pool and garden. Each spacious room features tea and coffee making facilities, a safe, a large bathroom, a balcony, a flatscreen TV with satellite channels and complimentary Wi-Fi internet access. Among other key facilities, the Royal Restaurant offers all-day buffet-style and à la carte dining with international cuisine, while the Pool Bar is an ideal place to unwind with its selection of cocktails, coffee, tea, and tasty snacks served all day. For more information, visit mercure.com or email reservations@ mercurehoianroyal.com
Some New Zen Well-known spa getaway, Zen House,
has just opened another location, this time close to the Sheraton Hotel — Zen Spa Lakeview. Offering the same services as Zen House, with added lake views to boot, this is the perfect location to make that quick getaway from the city or the trials and not-so-plentiful tribulations of West Lake. Zen Lakeview is at 17 Tu Hoa, Tay Ho, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3719 1266. For info on their services and treatments, click on zenspa.vn
Ommani As if the West Lake area didn’t already have enough restaurants, now we’ve got another one. Although this time round the recently opened Ommani has done something that competitors have shied away from — they’ve focused on all things Vietnamese. Daubed in deep pink on the outside, and black indoors, the English language menu on the specials board on our visit included dishes such as steam-fried prawn with coconut (VND169,000), banana flower with chicken (VND95,000) and Sai Gon nest spring rolls (VND90,000). Our photographer was told that they were about to change their main menu — so, we’ll just have to wait and see what they come up with. But
tasty, mid-range Vietnamese cuisine served up in a contemporary setting could potentially be a very welcome addition to the Tay Ho area of town. Ommani is at 37 Ngo 52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0937 794048
School on the Boat Crowdfunding Campaign School On the Boat is a Hanoi-based NGO committed to contributing to the well-being and academic success of disadvantaged children. The beneficiaries of their work are marginalized families who suffer from administrative, social and economical exclusion — many of these families are boat dwellers whose children don’t have access to education. In an attempt to expand their operations, School on the Boat launched a crowdfunding campaign on Jun. 1 to raise US$7,000 (VND153 million), enough to hire a Vietnamese social worker for 12 months. The social worker will be the NGO’s first, full-time paid employee. The campaign continues until Aug. 31. So, help this NGO achieve their goal, and in doing so, help the underprivileged. Simply click on youcaring.com/red-river-children and make your pledge. For more info on School on the Boat, click on schoolontheboat.fr
2
34 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
3
Photo by Jakub Žák
2.
1
Photo by Julie Vola
1.
Hotels in Hoi An, crowdfunding campaigns, a new West Lake spa and mid-range Vietnamese cuisine. All that’s new this month
Europe’s No.1 in Water Technology
Made in Germany
Whole-house solutions for clean water • tooth brushing • bath and shower
• dishwashing • washing veggies and fruits
• cooking • drinking
• swimming pool • wellness www.bwt-vietnam.com wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 35
overscene hanoi
The Swedish Showcase
Photos by Vu Bao Khanh Three bands from Sweden, one venue, one night of great music, all sponsored by the Swedish embassy. CAMA ATK was packed for this one
36 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
The Mukang Fields
Photos by Vu Bao Khanh The American-Hanoi band bought their unique mould of experimental electronica jazz to Madake
asean pride
Photos by Trung Del With the promotion of LGBT issues, there is a tendency to forget about the music at last month’s festival at The American Club. The 4,000 or so festival attendees certainly didn’t
If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
Babylon 21
Photos by Julie Vola Photographer Alisher Sharip’s exhibition at Chula last month attempted to capture the ethnic and cultural diversity of Hanoi. These images are from the opening
Insider
The Construction Worker / Urban Exploration in The Tropics / Wastelands / Psychogeography / The Best Bia Hoi in Hanoi / Mystery Diner Hanoi / Street Snacker Hanoi / Mystery Diner HCMC / Street Snacker HCMC / Fashion / The Old Houses of Duong Lam / The Last Tunnel / Raising the Bar
Photo provided by Bao Zoan 38 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
A condo on Thanh Da Island, HCMC
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 39
Insider MANY FACES
HCMC
The Construction
40 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Worker Even building site workers have to take coffee breaks. Jon Aspin catches up with lifelong construction worker, Hung, as he heads out for a coffee and a smoke. Photo by Francis Xavier. Translation by Vu Ha Kim Vy
I
f you live in one of the thousands of high-rise and semi high-rise apartment complexes in Ho Chi Minh City, there’s a good chance you’re the beneficiary of this man’s handiwork. In fact, the very foundation on which you now sit, may well have been laid by him. Over the last 30 years, 50-year-old Hung has lost count of how many of these types of construction jobs he’s worked on, he only knows it been a lot. Struggling to get access to these high security sites, we find Hung during his break at the coffee shop. It’s around the corner from one of the many large-scale apartment projects currently on the go in District 2, and he’s working on it. His job exactly? He’s on the team responsible for setting the concrete slabs that make up the bulk of these buildings, not just the foundation. These are what lies behind such things as elevator shafts and rendered hallways. His specific task: creating the reinforced steel ‘cages’ that form the spine of these massive, and dangerous building blocks. “It’s easy work”, he says in Vietnamese to our translator. “It was only hard at the beginning when I didn’t know what to do. Now I know.”
been doing the same work, first in the Delta, and since the age of 26 in Ho Chi Minh City. Starting as an assistant, his only training was on the job. He’s seen this city transform. “It used to have very small roads with a lot of high grass,” he says. “Now there are big roads, with a lot of people, higher buildings. Nicer. And a lot of foreigners.” He says something indecipherable, touches my arm, and laughs. “I can’t say whether I like it or not,” he says, “I come here to work, that is all.”
Brothers in Arms Work has helped Hung through some tough patches. In 1981, at the age of 16, he lost both his parents. Then in 2002 his wife died — his eyes narrow as he recalls this event. “My work colleagues are like my brothers,” he says, puffing on his cigarette, “we get along very well.” In his free time, when he gets some, he sees his family. He has six children, all married with children of their own. All work in Ho Chi Minh City. On these numbers alone it hasn’t been an unproductive life. How does a construction worker from the Mekong learn to love Saigon? After all, he seems happy with his lot. His demeanour is steady and his speech is deliberate, but he smiles easily. “I’m not allowed to love Saigon,” he says, “I don’t have enough money to buy a house here.” But for someone who came from the relative poverty of farm life, this is a step up. What about retirement? Does he have any plans for this? At this question he is incredulous. “When I still have my health, I will keep working. I still feel young and strong.” With that he goes back to work.
“‘[Saigon] used to have very small roads with a lot of high grass. Now there are big roads, with a lot of people, higher buildings. Nicer. And a lot of foreigners’”
Working for the Man For VND180,000 a day and few benefits, Hung works eight hours per day, seven days a week, until someone tells him the job is done. Then he goes home to where some of his family still live in Dong Thap, in the Mekong Delta. There he waits until someone tells him he’s needed again. While on a job he rents a house in District 8, and rides his motorbike into work every day for a 7am start. Normally a construction project will last a year. Since Hung was 18, he has more or less
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 41
Cover Story
Urban Exploration in the Tropics The Rules To explore your urban environm ent and gain access where access if difficult to gain, here’s what you have to do. 1) Take only pictures, leave only footprints 2) Don’t leave cigarette butts! 3) Don’t break stuff 4) Don’t talk too loudly 5) Don’t throw stuff off of buildings 6) Be respectful to anyone you meet. Greet them with a smile and a reasonable explanation 7) No flips flops. Adjust the dress code to the level of urbex you’re planning 8) Don’t dress too flashy. Long pant s help you to look like a responsible adult 9) Take water 10) Always keep a flashlight on you
42 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
An apartment block on Su Van Hanh, Q10, HCMC
Though the urbex movement was born in the catacombs of Paris and the storm drains of Sydney, the pastime’s 21st-century popularity has more to do with the invisible cities shooting up aboveground. Speaking about the urbex crew that climbed London’s 310-metre-tall superscraper, the Shard, Matthew Power described their mission as an attempt “to rediscover, reappropriate and reimagine the urban landscape in what is perhaps the most highly surveilled and tightly controlled city on earth”. In Vietnam, we’re relatively lucky. For the most part, the buildings in this country haven’t yet been locked down. We can indulge in the fun part of urbex without the risk. But change is coming, as fast as 80-storey buildings can crowd the skyline. It’s time to enjoy our cities while they still belong to us.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 43 Photo provided by Bao Zoan
Hacking the High-Rises
STEP 1: Look up. STEP 2:
This is where it gets complicated. There’s going to be a challenge here. Whether it’s simply not peeing in your pants at the sight of the security guard (who’s staring at you not because he’s suspicious, but because you’re nervously sweating) or something more technical, you’ve got to keep your head about you.
STEP 3: If the building’s got a parking garage, drive in. These hammock-bound gatekeepers aren’t standing on high alert for all 18 hours of the workday, and the access is a bit easier to figure out without someone who takes their job somewhat seriously watching you. 44 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
STEP 4: If walking in is the only way,
give it a try. It can work to your advantage — the sketchy infiltrators are all heading in via parking garage. Make a beeline to the elevators, holding your cell phone to your ear if it looks like someone will want to know where you’re going. Of course, you’re going to your friend’s apartment, you’re talking to them on the phone right now — and if that’s not good enough for Mr. Front Desk, you’ll just sit down on the couch for a few minutes “waiting for them” and staring into your phone, until such time as you pick your cell phone up to your ear again and beat a hasty retreat.
STEP 5:
The elevator might be keycardactivated — don’t get discouraged. You don’t want to hit the staircase too early, as
Tanda Court Q5, HCMC 21 Storeys
With world-city status comes big bu ildings, and they’ll crowd you in if you’re no t careful. But the urb-ex community has thought of a helpful solution — get on top of them. Ed Weinberg, Kyle Phanroy, Francis Xavier and Julie Vola used some obliging buildings as footstools to revelation. You can too wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 45
Top Left: Hoa Dao Hotel Tay Ho, Hanoi 20 Storeys Bottom: Almaz Hotel Tay Ho, Hanoi 7 Storeys
46 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
this is weird, and you are not weird. Just try to press one of the elevator’s buttons, and if nothing happens, step back outside. Walk into the lobby area, and wait for someone who also looks like they know what they’re doing to walk towards the elevator. You’ll be looking at your cell phone as you lockstep with them, and when they politely ask you which floor, tell them the second-highest one you can see on the panel — but not the same floor as the citizen. If the separate buttons are keycardactivated, follow your elevator buddy out, staring lasers into your phone (you, mildly exasperated: “He’s such a flake!”).
STEP 6: Exit the elevator, and stare at
your phone screen until you’re left alone. Once that happens, walk with purpose until you find one of those telltale ‘EXIT’ signs (or look at the floor plan most modern buildings put near the elevators). Give the stair door a once-over for fire alarms (although the fire alarms often aren’t attached to anything — they’re a pain for maintenance to deal with), and then a confident shove. Once you’re inside, make sure the door won’t lock behind you, and start walking up. Don’t make noise, as your voice will echo like, well, like someone using the stairs. And no-one uses the stairs. Some of the fancier staircases have “roof access” labeled at their entrance, but for most you’ll have to learn through trial and error. At the end of your journey, you’ll hopefully see a door. Once again, give it a careful inspection (also looking for nearby cameras, like the one that led to us getting busted on the roof of the Thao Dien Pearl). Then get on out there, winner!
STEP 7: Once you’re on the roof, raise your arms skyward and breathe a deep, extravagant sigh. You’re Leonardo DiCaprio on the prow of the Titanic. Don’t yell too loudly that you’re king of the world, even though you know you are. Take those sweet roof pics in order of preference — you might be kicked out at any second. But if someone does open the roof access door behind you, wearing that trademark security guard frown, you can relax. The need for subterfuge is over. Remember: your friend (who is definitely an upstanding building resident/hotel guest) told you to check out the roof. You were just taking some pictures, but no problem, of course you’ll leave, and you’re very sorry for any inconvenience you caused wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 47
Horizon Tower Q1, HCMC 24 Storeys
— you didn’t even know you were doing anything wrong! Nooo, you can’t give the guard your friend’s name, you don’t want to get anyone in trouble, you’ll just leave. See, you’re already walking out.
48 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Psychology-wise, this explanation does two very important things. First, it provides plausible deniability that you were doing anything wrong, and second, it offers an easy option for the discipline they’re supposed to
administer. In the space of three sentences, you’ve gone from definite rule-breaker to someone who is just confused. Congratulations, you’re a badass, and the world is your office.
ber: mem just re 8 million , e l p e peo e of the 1 d play ames Vietn maybe on ays a goo that 1 r ,o TIP s alw , and PROe Singaporeanout there. It’isadvantaged the very d n you’r ricans ners at a ning behi you. a -Ame io Asian our quest ing the me l be asking il ty w to pu s not kno ns they w e o i v t l s o e v u q in ctable predi tter no be ere’s g/ h T . e c in no tra watch Leave ate sunset- ving trash t 2 a v P e i l I T n pr s tha PROo ruin a niceving spot thaate summiterr trash is way t -picnic-ha he legitim any. If you ably not p t p b roofto hich tells ctable com hey’re pro i t. ,t ,w there ve unpred rette butts f the doub a o a they h ns and cig he benefit t a beer c o give you t re. going ng he t, u belo wding ou o y , r o r be c m s i e g Rem uildin has more this b TIP 3 e PROs your sunsetause someonn they should c a ’ t e e a b m h T ’t ust sky. J doesn ming your than you swim e v . a y h w e mon better vie se places e a have some of th , o s l A . pools
Lancaster Bldg Ba Dinh, Hanoi 28 Storeys
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 49
Vietnam’s Ugly Buildings
50 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Photo by Francis Xavier
A creative solution to Vietnam’s architectural dilemma, from Niko Savvas. Photos provided by Bao Zoan wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 51
S
ome people are very attached to buildings. For example, in 2007 a woman named Erika LaBrie married the Eiffel Tower. The wedding was covered with great fanfare by the international media. A documentary was made about the woman who married the Eiffel Tower, creatively titled The Woman Who Married the Eiffel Tower. Many viewers felt that LaBrie had taken things a bit far. Viewer A: Can you believe she married the
52 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Eiffel Tower? Viewer B: Actually, I feel she took things a bit far. There are lots of odd fetishes, from climacophilia (arousal from falling down stairs) to oculolinctus (arousal from licking eyeballs). Many are somewhat understandable — after all, blue eyes are like super pretty*. But objectophilia, or the love of inanimate stuff like buildings, poops in the shoes of logic. Why do people get so worked up about
buildings? They’re just piles of brick and glass. They might contain multitudes, but that’s all they are: containers for people and their stuff. Some containers are more desirable than others — like cinemas. Cinemas are very desirable containers. Not in the Erika LaBrie sense, but in the “I’d like to have one of those in my neighbourhood” sense. Cinemas yield popcorn-buckets full of revenue, provide round-the-clock entertainment and give teenagers a place to make out. A cinema *Don’t look at us like that** **Or do?
is a useful container. You know what’s not a useful container? A late-period Indochinese fish warehouse. But for some reason people go bonkers when it’s time to knock one down, even if it’s being replaced by a cinema.
Many clever solutions to this conundrum have already been attempted — for example, repainting the Saigon Post Office a corneascorching shade of yellow. By making Vietnam’s colonial buildings as hideous as their surroundings, it’s possible to reduce their appeal so much that no one will miss Confronting the Past them when they’re gone. Colonial buildings in Vietnam are a thorny But once the colonialist eyesores are issue. On one hand, they’re vestiges of an removed, what comes next? imperial power that oppressed the country for It’s a question Vietnam’s architects have decades. On the other hand, they’re pretty. been struggling to answer. The Keangnam
Hanoi Landmark Tower, Vietnam’s tallest and most prestigious building, is a billion-dollar boondoggle (which its bankrupt owners are trying to pawn off on Qatari investors). In Saigon, things are similarly bleak. Bitexco and other developers have no buyers for the vast amounts of office space they’ve built into buildings like the Manor 2. Vietnam’s international efforts haven’t fared much better. The country’s cultural house at the 2015 Expo Milano in Italy, which cost US$2.6 million (VND56.7 billion), drew scorn
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 53
for its “carelessly” selected decorations, despite the presence of several amputee mannequins and two old statues. Its lack of functionality was also criticised. “There are too many requirements for food hygiene and safety,” said Nguyen Thuan, the exhibit’s vice director, explaining why the house had no dining area. Many visitors were quick to leave once they realised the house’s interior was mostly empty. The failure of the expo’s patrons to appreciate Vietnamese architecture is worrisome. One visitor even called the house a “shame on the country’s reputation”. So what is to be done?
A Modest Proposal
The answer lies with the country’s most precious natural resource: its children. According to the OECD’s 2015 Universal Basic Skills report, Vietnamese schoolchildren are the 12th cleverest in the world. While sceptics attribute the high test scores to “answer borrowing” and an emphasis on rote memorisation, the report is proof that Vietnamese children are ready to embrace the challenges of tomorrow. With this in mind, here is a radical strategy for the beautification of Vietnam’s cities.
Make the Kids Do It
By applying their advanced knowledge of fractions and gym to real-world situations, the young people of Vietnam will succeed where their forebears failed. There are many advantages to child-powered construction projects. First, there are financial benefits. Children are poor unionisers — collective bargaining is difficult for groups who can’t even agree which anthropomorphic robot is the strongest. They can sometimes be convinced to work for literal peanuts (if they’re dipped in chocolate and sprinkled on ice cream). Also, their uniforms are much smaller than adults’, saving millions of dong on excess sleeve-and-pant-leg fabric. The savings can be passed along to future tenants. Young builders are also more tech-savvy and appreciative of architectural diversity. Many of them have years of experience in virtual real estate development. They are well-trained in identifying local needs, whether this means a new tiberium mine, a larger melon patch or an extra dragon hatchery. Surely they would prove equally adept at relatively mundane tasks like traffic flow and sewer management. In conclusion, while some may bristle at the ethical ramifications of depending on child labour to develop Vietnam’s infrastructure, all objective analyses lead to a single conclusion: they couldn’t f*** things up any worse.
54 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 55
The Hanoi
We know a city by what we see and feel upon its surface. But what do you find when you venture underground? Words by David Mann. Photos by Trung Del and Julie Vola
Underground The Blood of the Dragon Yen Thai Temple, Ngo Tam Thuong, Hoan Kiem
The Story
Behind Hang Bong and down a small lane lined with food stalls serving everything from stir-fried dog to snake, a quiet escape awaits. Deciduous trees cast leafy shadows over this sleepy haven of tranquility, largely unknown to the city outside. Old xe om drivers sit cross-legged on their bikes watching as bo bia vendors donning conical hats cycle past. There are no tourists here, with most failing to venture further than the snake restaurant. Alone we cross the threshold into the 300-year-old Buddhist temple, known as Yen Thai. Navigating a small maze to the building’s rear, we find what we’re looking for: a 953-year-old well that is largely unknown. Truong Sinh, who has been the temple’s custodian for more than 23 years, ushers us into his living room for tea and to regale us with stories of the well’s history. “The well was built in AD 1117 more than 900 years ago to provide water to construction workers who were building the citadel to protect Queen Y Lan,” he says. Empress Mother Y Lan, as she is known, was the imperial concubine of Ly Thanh Tong, Vietnam’s third emperor. She was also the birth mother of Ly Nhan Tong, the fourth and longest serving emperor in Vietnam’s history. After the house surrounding the well was destroyed, the site was deemed holy land and in its place Yen Thai Temple was constructed in 1718. “The water that runs underground and comes to that well is considered sacred: the blood of the dragon. It’s good luck.”
The Sacred Well Ho Khau Village, Ngo Thuy Khue, behind Thuy Khue, Tay Ho
The Story
Buried behind one of Tay Ho’s busiest thoroughfares lies a hidden treasure. It’s a 60-year-old well that connects to the underground pipes that once funneled water to a system of wells that ran along Thuy Khue. Built almost 70 years ago in one of the busiest villages in Hanoi, this secret water source has become a sacred spot for locals. It lies in the midst of a quiet alley, tended to by an old janitor who emerges periodically to clean the well. As Ho Khau Village has had running water for over a decade, the well remains largely unused. But when the taps run dry, as they did during a water shortage three years ago, the well resumed as the village’s primary water source. Yet the borehole’s history is steeped in superstition, with many villagers believing the well is sacred and is “connected” with those who live nearby. “Three years ago the well was neglected and filled with rubbish,” says 67-year-old Loan, who lives across from the well. “Everyone in the village soon got sick, even though they weren’t using the water.” “We thought the well was sick, so we collected money to refurbish it and put a steel grate on it to keep the leaves out. Afterwards, everyone was healthy again.” As we were leaving, an elderly man pokes his head out of a nearby window. He scurries across the lane and closes the steel grate shaking his head and muttering under his breath.
The Neighbourhood Well Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem
The Story
It’s not every day that you meet a salsa dance class teacher, especially in Vietnam. But on our final day, when we decided to knock on a stranger’s door to find the last hidden well, we did. “I teach at Hang Che every Friday at 8pm,” says Lien, a dance instructor in her late 40s. Lien’s family has lived in their French-built colonial townhouse for almost four generations. The same applies for the other 10 families that inhabit the neighbouring apartment block and share the same well. It has been in use for nearly a century. Hidden behind a high wall, the water source is reserved for private use by each household. Thanks to cheap bottled water, the well is now used for household chores, anything from irrigating toilets to washing motorcycles and cleaning dishes, says Lien. “This well is still part of our daily lives, almost the same way it was part of my grandparents’ lives 50 years ago. You could say it’s been a tradition.”
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 57
58 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
The Subways My Dinh Bus Station, Ton That Thuyet, Cau Giay, Hanoi; Opposite Re-Unification Park, Le Duan, Dong Da
S
tumbling into My Dinh’s underground walkway is no easy feat for newcomers. For one thing the walkway is partially covered by locust trees. It’s also quite small. Inside, you may actually think you’ve walked into a Soviet-built subway. The entrance is beige, the lighting dull and the walkway is eerily quiet. When it was first opened in 2000, commuters ignored the tunnel, instead choosing to brave the four lanes of highspeed traffic to cross from the bus station to the other side. Of course, disaster ensued. Not long after, a high fence was installed to divide the traffic under the causeway. Now, the subway is used, but still not all that often, with hoards of xe om drivers waiting for customers as they disembark. The same can be said for the subway on Le Duan. Dark, dank and largely ignored by the public, large groups can be witnessed walking straight past the entrance and into oncoming traffic to reach the other side of the road. Yet on weekend afternoons, the subway comes alive. Young hipsters and teenagers wearing their hats backwards brave the steep staircases on fixies and skateboards, mounting railings and zipping down bike ramps.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 59
The Bunker in The Metropole The Sofitel Legend Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem
The Story
On a night in December 1972, a group of hotel guests crouched 13 feet underground as American B52’s swooped over the capital. Among them sat American singer Joan Baez and actress Jane Fonda. When the war ended three years later, the secret bomb shelter was sealed and forgotten for nearly 40 years until 2011, when it was rediscovered during renovations to the hotel’s Bamboo Bar. After months of excavations, seven adjoining rooms were discovered, with little more than a light bulb and a used wine bottle found inside. But it’s the bomb shelter itself that is the real hidden treasure. As you descend the steps and the opulent lawns of the Metropole fade away, vaulted metal doors swing open to reveal solid concrete rooms with low ceilings that once housed up to 50 people. “People would stay here, silent, waiting for the siren to go off again so that they could go back outside,” says Hien, our guide. “They would sometimes be down here up to six times a day.” The tour ends with a harrowing recording of an airstrike that was recorded by Joan Baez on the roof of the Metropole on the night of the Christmas Bombings in 1972.
60 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Central Military Commission Bunker D67 Bunker, Hanoi Citadel, Hoang Dieu, Ba Dinh
The Story
Constructed in 1967 at the height of the war, the D67 building housed the General Headquarters of the People’s Army of Vietnam, complete with meeting rooms for the Politiburo, the Communist Party’s chief policy-making body. The facility was built with a flat roof to make it indistinguishable from a singlestorey house from the air, its roof lined with sand to protect it from shrapnel. But its plain features concealed an even more important facility that lay hidden underground: the Central Military Commission Bunker. Deep beneath the offices used by General Vo Nguyen Giap, Vietnam’s most famous military figure, a system of bunkers was dug under the citadel, the most important section forged in 1967. It linked the bunker with an underground tunnel system that forms part of Vietnam’s revolutionary history. One of three steep staircases will take you nine metres below the surface where a series of vaulted metal doors and submarine-style corridors lead to rooms with everything from crates of ammunition and old transistors left in their original place. Even the ‘war room’ where the Politburo, the Central Military Commission and army chiefs would meet to plot their next moves has been left in tact, with the same maps and charts left behind for visitors to see. However, only a small section of this underground maze has been opened to the public. Most of the tunnels remain closed off.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 61
The Remnants of Fun The Remnants of Fun
62 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
The nowdisappeared Wonderland in Saigon’s District 7
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 63
Wonderland: For years the rides sat unused
64 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Progress isn’t a straight line — rather it’s scattershot, filled with miscues that will eventually be paved over. One night, Galen Stolee took the road less travelled, to the vestigial ruins of Vietnam’s id. Photos by Galen Stolee and Dominic Blewett
A
s I’m sure some of you know, a long night of drinking in Vietnam can lead to some pretty unexpected and surprising places. In fact, on any given evening your level of adventure can be measured by the equation a=(v+dn)t/p — where v is the volume of alcohol consumed, t is the hour of the night you’ve managed to stay up past, and p is… actually I have no idea, maths were never really my strong suit. The point is, this city has a lot of experiences that seem to manifest themselves only when conditions are absolutely perfect. And the further you head back in time, the more common those were. Take Wonderland, the formerly derelict site of an abandoned amusement park in Saigon’s District 7. During the daytime, one might ride a scooter down Nguyen Van Linh and spot the curious visage of a gigantic Ferris wheel sticking out from behind rows of apartment buildings and be pretty unfazed by the whole thing. After all, clouds are forming overhead, you left your raincoat at home, and judging by the feel of the air on your skin, you reckon there’s about five minutes until the waters of the merciless sky dragon are unleashed upon you. Not today. Adventure. But now it’s 4.30 in the morning, and you’re sitting on a stool outside some seafood place in Cholon, where these poor folks have tolerated you for far too long, and it’s really time that you think about moving along. But to where, home? Hell no! You’re young and invincible and the world is your oyster! Or, in tonight’s case, mudfish. It’s time to be alive, to really see what this city is made of.
Post-Apocalyptic Disneyland
But what does it make sense to do at this ungodly hour? Suddenly the image lights up in your head like an acid flashback. That Ferris wheel. It must be summited. By me. Tonight. So you hop in a taxi to District 7, because riding your motorbike down the highway with this particular combination of substances coursing through your body, honking your horn to the beat of the Prince song you’re belting out at the top of your
lungs, would be reckless and dangerous and also incredibly obnoxious. So you obviously don’t do that. You arrive in the taxi, and spend the next 20 minutes walking in circles around the block trying to find where this actually thing is. If you have friends with you, this is the point where they start to feel like they’ll never be able to trust you ever again. Hold strong! You’re almost there. At a certain point, you’ll find an entrance to a small tennis court, which you’ll need to walk across in order to reach this mythical secret garden. Inexplicably, there are probably two middle-aged men playing tennis at this very hour. They will want to know why you’re walking across their court. Your answer will be incomprehensible in any language. Keep moving, and finally you see it, what you came here for, what you can now smear in the faces of the so-called friends that have been getting on your ass nonstop for the last hour and can finally shut their mouths. You’ve discovered PostApocalyptic Disneyland. Even through the obviously substanceinduced euphoria, it’s clear that you’ve come across something special. Everything you’d find at a regular amusement park is here: a merry-go-round, a swing ride, a spinnywheel bench-a-mathing, the aforementioned enormous Ferris wheel towering over everything. All of it covered with overgrown plants. And, what’s more, a little something extra you couldn’t see from the street. There’s a ROLLERCOASTER. Jackpot. Now obviously the first thing you do is try to turn everything on. After a surprisingly short amount of searching, you stumble upon a small control room with a massive switch breaker built into the wall. Excitedly, you start flipping switches, one after another, going up and down the grid like a kid hitting all the buttons on an elevator (I hate you, kid). You run back outside and… nothing. Did you actually expect that suddenly the entire place would come alive with coloured lights, carnival music and a lifelike robot clown that escorts you around and teaches you the true meaning of friendship? Not that there weren’t thrills to be enjoyed anyway. The spinny rides worked reasonably well with enough people pushing/pulling on them to get up to
speed. There were plenty of weird animal statues to freak you out. And then there’s that rollercoaster. While climbing the Ferris wheel would have proved a pretty impossible task, the more gentle incline of the rollercoaster, combined with a wooden service path all the way up to the top, made for a nice early morning comedown hike. And for a time, I’d argue it had the best sunrise in all of Saigon. You might notice that I’ve switched from present to past tense. And if so, well done; that CELTA has served you well. But there’s a good reason for it. Like too many relics of Saigon’s past, the amusement park is long gone. A recent survey of Google Maps tells me that they’ve expanded the tennis courts and added some football pitches. Which is great and all. I don’t know if people living in District 7 have much else to do with their time (ooh, burn). But I’ll always remember a time when nights like this could lead to truly wild and unique experiences. When there were still parts of the city that were undiscovered, undeveloped and untamed. Maybe there still are. If you’re up to the challenge, go out there and prove me wrong.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 65
66 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
A rusted Ferris wheel that formerly stood in Son Tay Citadel, near Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 67
Dalat Ghost Hunt
One year ago, ghost hunters Ed Weinberg and Kyle Phanroy took a trip up Vietnam’s mystic mountain, Dalat. Once there, they proceeded to freak themselves right out. Translation by Vu Ha Kim Vy
F
rom the start, the mountains give off a ghosty air. Fog dissipates with the sunrise, leaving red roofs and broken buildings. It’s said that to experience the supernatural, you have to be open to it. And on this trip, we’ve decided to make ourselves “available”. We’re to meet Violet Kupersmith, Vietnam’s leading English-language ghost chronicler — or at least the one tabbed by the New York Times and Huffington Post to write about Vietnamese ghosts and their metaphorical equivalents, ever since the 2014 publication of her ghost-centric book, The Frangipani Hotel. In it, she expands on the ghost stories her Vietnamese grandmother told her, taking them into the realm of sci-fi cultural commentary.
68 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
And, even though she doesn’t have much insight into the haunted houses that lurk atop the Prenn Pass, she’s the best ghost tour guide we can ask for.
Strange Prophecy
Before we check out the ghosts, we consult a famous fortuneteller, my friend Anh doing translation. She’s been seeing this fortuneteller for months, mostly about matters of love. We think it will be fun. The fortuneteller is a 60-year-old, brownpyjamaed woman, telling fortunes in the downstairs bedroom of a back-alley house. Nondescript living room, a kid sitting on the couch, music echoing from somewhere. She’s alarmed when Kyle and I enter the room shoeless. We start, and my bad qualities show right
through (as I journal this, it’s photographer Kyle’s turn. The fortuneteller leads with, “You usually cry”). “Your nose is too large,” the fortuneteller says. She points at Kyle. “Yours is better. You” — her attention is on me again — “will become sick. Your eyes are sad, they show a great sadness. Your ears show intelligence, but your money goes right out. “For example, you have the choice between a bowl of pho and some coffee, and you choose only coffee to save money. But you buy a coffee for five of your friends, so you don’t save any money!” She’s drawn to me, I think. We spend a half-hour at the table together, and even when it’s Kyle’s turn she compares us. She says that he’s organised and I’m messy; he’s not good at convincing people of his
Interview with a Witness! At the time of this writing, we tried reaching out to the people who wrote their — or their arch-enemy’s? — numbers on the walls of the house we overnighted in. Quyen in Daklak had since changed her phone, the vandal who’d seen “the ghost of the three children” wasn’t home and the one who wrote “his work was hunting” had a “subscriber is unavailable” message. However the last number on the list, who I’d only written “Mr. 11pm” to identify, answered our call. Mr. 11pm was actually a woman, and that wouldn’t be the last terrifying surprise she would reveal! Translator Vy: “Can you tell me what you saw in the house?” Mrs. 11pm: “A lot... a lot...” Vy: “Can you tell me a bit about it?” Mrs. 11pm: “A lot... it was so terrible... I can’t tell!” Vy: “Ok, so was it a woman or a man?” Mrs. 11pm: “I don’t know... it was far away... but when I got closer it disappeared!” Vy: “Oh...ok... Do you know the story behind it?” Mrs. 11pm: “You have to know more than me... you are a journalist, you have travelled a lot... you must know the story!” At this point, Vy had to convince Mrs. 11pm that she wasn’t holding out. Vy pressed Mrs. 11pm for more details... but her strange story was about to get stranger! Mrs. 11pm: “When you come to the house, you have to write your phone number on the wall!” Vy: “Oh, really? Why do I have to do that? Mrs. 11pm: “..................... you have to.........” And later: “I didn’t write my phone number there, it was there at the beginning. At the start there was nothing on the wall, but when I was about to leave I saw it written on the wall.”
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 69
abilities, I am. But I have something inside me that makes me restless, that makes me go far from home. She focuses on money, and I lose interest. To tell the truth I started disengaged. It’s too generalistic, it doesn’t flatter my vanity or sense of drama. (“You need love,” she tells Kyle, “unlike Eddie. Eddie doesn’t need love. He has a lot of love.”) It almost feels like I’ve picked up the wrong newspaper, the conservative-leaning one supplied for free to my great-aunt’s apartment building perhaps, and am now reading a fortune meant for an angsty paralegal. She lays out four rows of playing cards from a deck of 32, all numbered higher than six. She’s told me small things — I’m stubborn, lonely, my friends take advantage and aren’t good for me, money never stays, something bad will happen with my work, I go into jobs fast and leave them fast, I’ll hit a career wall, I’m not happy with my salary — but here she spells out my fate. And here it gets interesting. She circles the first row. It’s my past and present. There’s a card there that will turn up two more times, the Seven of Diamonds. It’s tied to me, like the camera strapped across my chest. (This isn’t the first time she references my appearance. My unbuttoned pocket — laundry woman’s fault — symbolises the money I can’t keep. My beard helps me to persuade people, but it would be better if I shave the connecting section between my moustache and beard. I actually consider this.) The Seven of Diamonds is a spirit tied to me, one I carry inside. It’s also symbolic of a man. This man is someone who understands me — he understands me in a rare way, like no-one else. It’s at this point I volunteer the story of Uncle Bruce. In short strokes, he grew up happy, energetic, a people person. In the summer after his last year of high school he went to a sleepaway camp, and something happened. He came back early, nine days later, a different person. He grew morose over the following year. In high school, he’d run for class president; now he took the long way through his college campus, trying to avoid people he knew. He isolated himself, sitting for long hours in his bedroom. My mother gave him part of her earnings from the post-college job she was working — she told him to spend it in any way he chose, it was just for him. One day he disappeared. The bag he’d brought with him, filled with the clothes he’d taken and the money my mother had been giving him, was found abandoned in the middle of the Brooklyn Bridge. She never heard from him again. When I was born, she gave the name Bruce for my second name.
Where Do Ghosts Come From?
A girl dies. Once she was beautiful in the way all young girls are beautiful. Then she was raped, murdered, and thrown down a well.
70 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
It’s the type of story that’s passed down in half-remembered detail, losing any real details it might once have had. In this way it becomes a symbol, a loss so heavy it can only be carried collectively. It’s the type of symbol Violet might have put into her book. “A lot of the ghost stories stem from the war,” she says, “and no-one found the bodies of the soldiers. And so a lot of these ghost narratives — they’re ghosts because no-one found their bodies and they’ve never been laid to rest properly. “And people don’t like to talk about it, like my grandmother doesn’t like to talk about the war. The way I get her to talk about the war is by asking about ghosts.” In The Frangipani Hotel, Violet sketched out her grandmother’s ghost stories into larger, evolving things, memories that seem to echo through the past into the present. “That’s sort of what my book was about,” Violet says, “ghosts as this trope. And it ties into immigration too, because a ghost is an inbetween person, right? You’re stuck between worlds. And I think my grandmother identifies with this, as a Vietnamese person in America now.” Ghosts like these are a connection to a hazy, impossible past — a past that was loaded with contradictions, a past that couldn’t have possibly endured. And Dalat, the last outpost of the French Empire in Indochina, is as good a reminder of this past as any. “Why’s it so mystical out here?” I ask. “It’s just something,” Violet says. “The weather?” It’s raining outside. “It’s a weird place. The ethnic hill tribes had a lot of mystic s*** going on with them too. It’s an old place.” She’s just spitballing at this point, but when she says, “The French history...?” it seems like she’s hit on something. ‘Hill stations’ like Dalat were built all over the colonial world, on the backs of manual labourers often enlisted against their will. Typically, hundreds died from overwork in such projects. Before the roads were complete, Vietnamese porters carried French patients on their backs up the steep mountains. Songs reminiscent of American ‘Negro spirituals’ were written about the exhausting, sometimes murderous, working conditions. This all happened in the early 20th century — their memory remains. “They have all the abandoned French houses,” Violet says. “They look like skeletons. They’re these shells of old houses.” It’s these houses we’ve come to investigate. They are full of mysteries. Ruined French villas hide hundreds of squatters. A secret tunnel is said to extend from the former homes of French officials on Tran Hung Dao to the countryside residence of Emperor Bao Dai. And, at the gates to the city, two mysterious ruins act as lightning bolts for all of Dalat’s mystical vibes. There are unsubstantiated stories on the Internet about investors in these beautiful modernist shells backing out for undisclosed reasons and dying in plane crashes.
Apparitions appear regularly, yet people can’t stay away. A strange energy draws people to them. A girl was raped then thrown down one of the houses’ deep wells. Another girl was attacked by mysterious assailants. A security guard assigned to watch the second house hung himself there in 1997, for reasons never explained. “They were two young lovers who wanted to get married,” Violet says about the legend behind the first house on our list, “but their families wouldn’t let them. So they ran away and committed suicide together in this abandoned house. Now people who try to stay overnight at the house get bothered, it’s like traditional poltergeist s***. “They can’t sleep through the night, they get thrown out of their beds, there’s a lot of weird creepy sounds and voices... just like belligerent ghosts.”
— “Should we try to sleep there?” I ask, even though we’re staying at a fancy hotel. “You know, that would be funny, it would be a good story.”
Ghost Hunting with Violet We decide to do it. Our first stop is the ‘Romeo and Juliet’ ghost house, 50 steps up weed-punctuated stairs from the twisting mountain road. It’s daylight. We walk around snapping pictures, trying to absorb the aura. I spot a graffito that says “Vi + Toan” and wonder aloud if it’s a creepy coincidence — Violet’s boyfriend’s name is Toan. But it turns out she’d written it herself minutes earlier. Down concrete stairs with strange curving lines carved into their sides, we wander into a damp basement. Miniature pillars, the kind that fit grand old staircases, are scattered
nearby. In another pile, disused sinks. An indentation in the wall houses a little shrine. Next to it is a painted demon face, hiding in the weak light. Still, we don’t feel it. And when the groups of post-adolescents start arriving — about 12 giggling atmosphere-wreckers in quick succession — we know the ghost hunt is off.
A Random Selection of Ghost House Graffiti
“Happy New Year/Hot Boy City” “I’m a crazy person for coming here in the middle of the night” “An old soul came and sat in the ghost house” “What are fear ghost fall” “The ghost of the 3 children” “Spirits capture spirits” “Someone was here and ate all the fruit”
A Di Da Phat
The most prominent graffito is “A Di Da Phat” — a Vietnamese rendering of the Amitabha Buddha’s name. We see it everywhere, in doorways, on walls, in the shrines where people leave their ghost offerings. It’s believed that a dying person who lays eyes on an image of the Amitabha Buddha will be reborn in paradise. In this context, it acts as protection, as a wish for a kind end to these lost souls’ wanderings. If the inscription was subtle before, in this second house it isn’t. This is the house of the raped girl, who was abducted and thrown down the well in back. This is where the early-morning hitchhiker calls passing cars to misfortune, like a Greek siren. This is the place the Vietnamese-Canadian investor purchased to renovate in 1986, shortly before dying in a plane crash. This is the place
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 71
where the security guard once danced on a noose in the moonlight. Incense sticks out from every hinge. A missing ladder bars the way to an unexplored attic. Chipped mouldings mark where chandeliers had been. Side passages narrow into dead ends. Fireflies lurk, along with other mysteries of the night. Wandering through this house, “A Di Da Phat” is on each of our lips.
Sleepover of the Doomed
We leave to pick up supplies. It’s our cheeky plan to spit roast a chicken in the haunted house, then sleep the night there. We pick up some fruits to offer at the fireplace-shrine, and two bags full of beer cans. It’s pitch-black upon our return. As we climb the stairs, long shadows escort us. Toan kneels by the shrine to make the offering. “A Di Da Phat” is written above in thick chalk strikes. Holding three sticks of incense, he bows and intones magical words in a murmur. When he’s through, he sets the incense upright in a small ceramic dish, near the remnants of other prayers. Next, Toan sets up two pillars to shelter a fire of coals and kindling. It takes a while to catch, then it does. Eventually, the smell of cooking meat wafts out to us. Once this smell must have filled the house every evening. We triangulate our seating arrangement in a primitive way, cornering where it’s safest. I’ve got my back to the shadows, which play tricks on those facing them. People break off their conversation when this deep darkness behaves strangely. Toan is by the fire. Violet is sitting next to an unlit doorway. Kyle’s sitting with his back to the fireplace-shrine. A story sticks in my mind, about a head falling through a fireplace at midnight and talking. I try not to look too long. There’s something over there, I feel, a strange presence. The night wears on, tension our constant companion. Sounds freeze us. The light of the dying fire seems like the only safe place. It’s honestly terrifying. It’s not real, I know. What we’re reacting to is a survival instinct known as ‘agent detection’. It’s the inclination to assume that a sentient force is involved in situations that might not involve one. It’s been in us as long as it’s been in lions. If a lion is walking alone and hears a twig crunch, it will look around for predators. If we’re home alone and see something fall, we’ll look around for ghosts. Even if it’s a windy night, and the window is open. The possibility of the supernatural will occur even to those who don’t believe in such things. Something has to give, and then it does. We stand up, motivated — we’ve decided to take a midnight tour. We walk through the house, demystifying the long shadows as we go. We inspect the graffiti. It’s just kids, we conclude, scaring themselves in much the same way we’ve
72 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Offerings for Hungry Ghosts In Asian mythology, the world is made of five elements: metal, wood, water, fire and earth. On the ancestral altar, five different fruits symbolise those elements, conveying the host’s wishes. Coconuts (dua or vua), papayas (du du or du), mangos (xoai or xai), custard-apples (mang cau or cau) and figs (sung) are the grouping commonly in use today. Together they create the ghostappeasing phrase “Cau vua du xai sung” — “Pray to God to have enough money to spend generously.”
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 73
74 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
A Stupid Violet Story Although Violet Kupersmith’s book The Frangipani Hotel revolves around Vietnamese ghost stories, Violet herself isn’t a ghost hunting pro. And she’s got the fate-tempting story to prove it: “So last year, last spring, when I’d just moved to Dalat, I was ghost hunting. I’d come up here because the weather was nice, but also that. “I really wanted to go to the ghost houses, but I was scared as f*** and I was like, ‘I need to get a little drunk before I go to this ghost house.’ I got drunk with some friends and then it was time to go to the ghost house. “It was creepy because we went at sunset, because pre-gaming the ghost house had taken too long, so it was extra creepy. And I was going around, and people left presents for the ghost: incense, some bowls of food — and someone had left a pair of Vietnamese lady pyjamas. “I was like, ‘Those look like my size.’ So I stole them, I ran around out back and put them on — ‘These are Violet’s now.’ “So I stole the ghost pyjamas. But if you borrow the ghost’s clothes, the ghost is going to borrow your body. It’s an even exchange. “I wore them back home... I wore them as pyjamas. And in the night I started hearing this weird s***. I started hearing this woman laughing a couple of times at like 4 in the morning, and just like terrible nightmares. And then I returned the pyjamas.” — “Did you wash the ghost off of them,” I ask, “before you started wearing them?” “This is why it’s a terrible Violet story. They smelled fine.”
been doing. Returning to the fireplace room, we sink into the comfortable euphoria of the sleepover, giddiness leading into exhaustion. Sleep. ***** We’re woken an hour later, at 2.30am, by Violet’s panicked whispers. She’d heard the sounds of tyres, two men talking. Toan is already up, and I rouse myself. Adrenalin takes over. Walking down the stairs, our feet softly crush broken glass. In the room where we’d parked our bikes — nothing, no-one. We shine our light into unlit rooms, then walk outside. From the relative safety of the driveway, we look out into the woods. It’s a thick tangle of tree and undergrowth that covers the mountainside. I think I see a pair of eyes reflecting the moonlight. I try to fix my bleary vision on it, but it’s gone. As Toan wanders down to the main road, I look over at the shrine. It’s a short walk through the woods away. Toan’s ghost expert cousin had said that if you walk down to “the little house” in the pre-dawn
hours, it’s easy to meet ghosts. I think about it, standing alone on the edge of woodline. When we reconvene, we decide not to stay the night. Rationally, we blame it on the robbers who might come — maybe they regularly check these houses for sloppy ghost hunters. The ghosts got us on a technicality. ***** This all happened one year ago. Renovations have since gotten underway on both houses, and their ghosty auras have dissipated into the generally ghosty mountain aura. The holes in their walls, which formerly opened onto the thick fog of the mountain pass, have been fitted with new windows. Noone’s died in any plane crashes yet. And maybe this is the way it’s supposed to go. Our world isn’t set up to resolve these ambiguities. We just pave them over when they get too pointless. But on the darkest and creepiest nights, we find answers. Even if those answers just amount to cat’s eyes in the moonlight, watching us right back.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 75
Insider
INSIDER
HCMC
Wastelands In 2012 the bulldozers moved in, and soon the east end of Ho Chi Minh City would be indelibly changed. Words and photos by Nick Ross
Knock 'em down. The houses in Thu Thiem went under the hammer in 2012
2012
Before the bulldozers moved in during 2012
78 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
I
missed the period when the bulldozers first entered Thu Thiem. I was living close to downtown at the time, and rarely ventured east of the Saigon River. But when I finally caught on to the destruction of a major part of Saigon, I went to explore. My memory of those 2012 trips to Thu Thiem is vivid, indelibly mixed with visions of rubble. Bulldozers and rubble. But the question that struck me as residents had their houses torn down was not where the people of Thu Thiem would go — some were resettled in temporary accommodation, others took their compensation and moved elsewhere. Rather it was the pagodas. Would they stay? Or would they be sacrificed in the name of progress? Progress won. And except for one temple hidden away in the mangroves, and another right opposite the Bitexco Tower, the rest were razed to the ground. Saigon 2.0 was on its way. And to get there, sacrifices — both human and physical — had to be made.
Three Years Later Yet city-changing projects take time. And in this instance, it meant doing things in stages. Long, drawn-out stages. For two years nothing happened. Thu Thiem became an overgrown wasteland, one that I would drive though almost daily, one that I would come to love. It was wild, unkempt and untouched. It was my secret garden, a place to find solitude in a city that offered none. Then in mid-2014 the wastelands were once again given a purpose. The developers moved in, tearing away the rubble, the undergrowth and the wetlands. For a second time I came out with my camera to document the area. This time I went to catch change. Before, after and somewhere in between. It’s an ongoing project, something I feel lucky to witness. Never before have I seen a city so utterly destroyed and then rebuilt. I will probably never see it again. But what I love most is what came in between.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 79
In February 2015, the wetlands were cut down
80 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
2015
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 81
A soon-to-be-completed apartment block just off Mai Tho Highway close to Thu Thiem
82 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
A construction site next to the east bank of the Saigon River
The man on the motorcycle has an issue with me taking photos. He comes over to tell me to stop
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 83
The cranes are as much a presence on the Saigon skyline as the high-rises
84 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 85
Insider INSIDER
THEORY
Psychogeography In situationist theory, psychogeography is the study of the geographical environment on people’s emotions and behaviour. But to certain sensitive artists, this influence is a two-way street “All space is occupied by the enemy. We are living under a permanent curfew. Not just the cops — the geometry.” — Raoul Vaneigem, in the sixth issue of Internationale Situationniste
I
n every history of the urbex movement, you’ll see a hat tip to the work of Guy Debord and his theory of the dérive — a kind of unplanned drift through an urban environment, clearing your mind of the usual motives for movement and action, letting the attractions and encounters you find there pull you to
and fro. This is what urban explorers do, and it opens up worlds to them that are permanently out of the reach of basic citizens. But our artists don’t accept the limits of physical space in their explorations. And in doing so, they open up an entirely different space — that of the mind, made concrete.
Jack Clayton jackclaytonart.com
‘Saigon Compass’ Based on a smashed American War compass, where the cracks resemble a bird’s eye view of Ho Chi Minh City. The outside ring has a detailed history of how the city was formed, from the days when it was a Khmer fishing village through to the Gia Dinh era, the Nguyen Dynasty influences and the French occupation. Then finally the Liberation of Saigon and the era post-1975.
86 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Zach Scott
zachrichardscottdesign.tumblr.com
‘Barbie’s Dream Church’ I have no idea what goes on behind closed doors at Hai Ba Trung’s hot pink Catholic church... but I can only assume it mainly consists of bake sales, selfies and pillow fights. New age, sassy churching for the iPhone generation.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 87
Cong Thanh
behance.net/thanhcoco
‘Old Apartments’ In my senior year in university, I lived in an old apartment — literally ‘old’, with all the systems inside broken down and people living there adapted to the conditions. They even had some farms with chickens and ducks and pigs living together. Here I imagined what it would be like if we lifted up the entire block to see how this old building actually works.
88 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
‘Riverside Slum’ Back in my childhood in the Mekong Delta, I had a river in front of my house. The life of villagers along that river is very unique: they live on the river, drink river water, wash their clothes in the river and bathe there too. Nowadays this kind of rural scene has changed to a city scene, and these slums eventually disappeared. When I moved to Saigon, I saw houses like this around District 8, which reminded me of the days before, and reminded me of my family. I quickly captured it in this drawing.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 89
Sith Zam
sithzam.daportfolio.com
‘Some Cities Have Magic I + II’ Saigon is a magical city, and in it is a type of unimaginable excitement.
90 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Duong Giap
behance.net/duonggiap
‘Like Dealer’ On Hai Phong’s city streets, a collision of the old and new.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 91
Food and Drink 1
92 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
EAT & DRINK
HANOI
The Best Bia Hoi in Hanoi Armed with an unquenchable thirst for answering philosophical conundrums, Noey Neumark and Dara O Foghlu set off across the capital, fighting typhoons and falling trees in search of the holy grail of watering holes. Photos by Julie Vola
L
ife is short and brutal, and before you know it you’ll be dead. So it’s important to find a good place to enjoy a drink with friends. Thankfully, there’s no shortage of bia hoi in Hanoi. However, it can be hard to find the right one. Of course, the 8,000-dong question is, what makes a good bia hoi? We decided to find out.
Bia Hoi Ha Noi
1 5A To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
Our beer-a-thon kicks off on a Saturday afternoon in Tay Ho. A popular expat haunt, this bia hoi is also frequented by a steady crew of shirtless Vietnamese men, so there’s a nice mix of cultures here. The beer, at VND8,000 a glass, is very fresh, and they can rustle up a mean plate of ribs for VND90,000. Decor-wise, there’s not much to write home about, but the vibe here is good, and that counts for a lot. The legendary ‘Soda Kid’ runs the place. A nocturnal beast, this five-year-old is fizzing with mischief. They say he is 90 percent bubbles and sugar water. At 4.47pm, he appears and promptly attacks another child with a green plastic sword. At the same time, the light drains from the day, and a purple storm cloud bursts overhead, with rain coming down so heavily that everyone must
shout to make conversation. An end-of-theworld giddiness comes over us, except for Soda Kid who feels upstaged by the typhoon and takes to sullenly poking the ground with the tip of his sword. Then lightning zaps the roof, and a blonde English girl falls off her chair. She laughs. We laugh. These are some good times. After two beers, the rain eases and we head to our next port of call. Come Here For: Soda Kid; pre-gaming for Hanoi Rock City, Madake or Eden; a good mix of expats and locals; top-notch rain plan. Drawbacks: At night, the fluorescent lighting gives this place the atmosphere of a dental surgery. The bathroom is terrifying during a power outage.
Bia Hoi Cuong Hoi
2
264 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho This massive drinking emporium on West Lake’s southern shore spreads over two dining rooms and houses fish tanks and a factory-scale beer pouring station. The crowd ranges from Vietnamese hipsters to buttoned-up businessmen to extended families going all out for a reunion. Our neighbours welcome us with jubilant glassclinking and the servers are friendly, too. The beer here (VND6,000 / glass) lacks proper fizz and leaves a disconcerting aftertaste, but the food and atmosphere more than make
“The light drains from the day, and a purple storm cloud bursts overhead… Then lightning zaps the roof, and a blonde English girl falls off her chair. She laughs. We laugh. These are some good times. After two beers, the rain eases and we head to our next port of call”
up for it. We devour some exceptional tofu in a pool of tomato sauce (VND40,000). The flavour is heavenly and the tofu’s crisp is legit. Seeking comfort from the apocalyptic storm, we slurp the sauce from our bowls like starving cats. It’s that good. We want to stay forever but must pry ourselves away from our miniature table and forge onward. Come Here For: Starting out with a day drink and stumbling out at midnight not knowing what happened but being certain you had a fantastic time; the food; the view; the impeccably clean bathroom. Drawbacks: Not the best beer. Also, the first sight upon entering was the head of a cooked dog.
Bia Hoi Ha Noi
3 19C Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh
Adjacent to the botanical gardens and Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, it’s possible that on a sunny afternoon this is an Eden-like escape with welcoming waiters and friendly patrons. On this night, however, which is wetter than an otter’s pocket, that is not the case. The benches under the trees are open to the rain, so we sit in the covered area under the bright strip lighting. Our surly waitress takes our order of beers (VND10,000 / glass) and deep-fried frog. The frog is delicious, making it all the more heart-wrenching when Miss Personality returns and tells us that the dish is not for us. She plucks the half-eaten frogs from our bowls, and rearranges the dish to make it look full again (using her hands — no, no, no!) before serving it to the table behind us. As the frog is now sold out, we begrudgingly order cuttlefish stir-fried with pineapple (VND125,000). When it arrives, we greet it like parents disappointed in their second-born child — smiling weakly and muttering false platitudes. We scrape off the ungodly amount of dill, scoff the cuttlefish, and get the hell out. Come Here For: Nice garden area; private rooms for plotting world domination; fantastic deep-fried frog. Drawbacks: Unfriendly waiting staff; squat toilets.
X98, Beer 2KU 4 X98 Hoang Cau, Dong Da The X98 complex is modern and artsy, with nary a fluorescent bulb in sight. We meander
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 93
8
9
3
94 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
2
7
6
8
9
7
6
6
9
9
7
7
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 95
6
96 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
“Approaching the colossal facade of the Brauhaus is like coming up to Willy Wonka’s brewery with a golden ticket in your hand” through the multi-level, multi-room beer complex, settling on the most bia hoi-esque option, Beer 2KU. Unlike your standard bia hoi, we have a range of beers to choose from; it’s overwhelming but appreciated. Beers are served in glasses or towers, and we seem to be the only ones here who’ve ordered the former. Now there, friends, is a good work ethic. Groups of Vietnamese twentysomethings surround us. The ratio of men to women is nearly equal. American pop music blares. It seems we’ve happened upon a bia hoi for the next generation, something approaching a beer club, and the future looks good. We make light work of our 500ml beers while stuffing our faces with nem nam (fermented pork skin rolled up in herbs), banana flower salad with pig ear, and spicy-sour nem chua. Our mouths are on fire and somehow seven hours have passed since we first convened, so we call it a night. Come Here For: Great food, great vibe; dark beer. Drawbacks: No shirtless men. Also, as much as Noey has a soft spot for American pop music, every time she hears Maroon 5’s Animals, she says she wants to hide for 10 years in a soundproof beer keg.
The Next Installment Day two begins with a swerving motorbike ride around strewn tree branches; that storm has left the city with one hell of a hangover. The clean-up crews are out in force taking chainsaws to Gulliver-sized trees whose roots have hauled up sections of pavement. The city that always beeps may be in disarray, but there is some serious drinking to be done, so we meet at 5pm when we’re feeling human again.
Pacific Bia Hoi
5 281 Doi Can, Ba Dinh
Sequestered behind a bus depot some way from the road, the Pacific Bia Hoi is another large-scale affair made for wholesale drinking. The place is quiet when we get there, however, and is nicely gilded by the evening light. We sit on adult-sized chairs at tables overlaid with white and purple tablecloths. It’s an incredibly sophisticated start to what will inevitably be another messy night. We pop open an aluminium jug of Bia Ha Noi, which is good and even slightly malty. There is a narrow margin of quality and flavour when it comes to bia hoi brews,
so when you find something with even a modicum of taste it’s a rare pleasure indeed. The Thailand-style beef is fine, but decidedly un-Thailandish. The Pacific nem (VND80,000) on the other hand, are good enough to make a hungover man cry tears of joy. Come Here For: Mad decent VND70,000 beer jugs; friendly staff; the sunset. Drawbacks: Nothing much to gripe about here, although the layout gives the place a bit of a wedding party vibe, which is not necessarily a bad thing, especially, say, if you’re there for a wedding.
Bia Hoa Vien 6 1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung Hai Ba Trung District is a fancy area, so it’s no surprise that this Czech-style beer drinking hall is a bit more upmarket than your bog-standard bia hoi. Approaching the colossal facade of the Brauhaus is like coming up to Willy Wonka’s brewery with a golden ticket in your hand. Sure, the ‘typical Czech’ décor probably came out of some identikit box, but any lack of true authenticity in this regard is redeemed by the truly authentic beer, brewed in-haus. Oh, the beer! A one-litre bottle of cloudy and robust beer costs VND100,000, and it’s worth every last dong. The source is a gleaming copper vat behind the bar. That heroic patron saint of childhood gluttons, Augustus Gloop, would find a happy home inside it. Sadly, with more bia hoi joints on the agenda, we must leave. But we leave fortified in the knowledge that such beer exists in Hanoi. As Wonka himself once said, “So shines a good beer in a weary world...” Come Here For: Possibly the best beer in Hanoi; the fried cheese; the Hoa Vien sausage. Drawbacks: All beers after this are relegated into a minor league.
Bia Hoi Huong Hai
7 56 Yen Bai, Hai Ba Trung
Our caravan scoots through sheets of rain, getting lost and then found in the Hai Ba Trung jumble of one-way streets before finally reaching the narrow alleyway of Yen Bai. Topless men cheer us on as we weave towards the entrance: an auspicious beginning. We’ve come for the black pepper beef, which has the consistency of goopy snot. However, what the beef sauce lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in personality; the pepper’s spice is tempered by sweetness and
just the right amount of MSG. We drink enough beer that that one of our group is forced to check out the bathroom. A server pulls them across the street to a door in the kitchen. She yells to a chi inside and our compadre hears water shut off and the sound of someone scampering. Giggling, she nudges them in, leaving the sliding door ajar. To the right, buckets of laundry litter the ground, and a ladder leads upstairs. To the left, a small drain. Our friend pokes their head outside and says “Where?” Shrill laughter ensues and the drinking partner understands that there’s nothing waiting for them upstairs; it’s only the drain. Come Here For: Black pepper beef; nice beer; the service; the crowd. Drawbacks: The bathroom-laundry room hybrid.
At this point it’s pouring again, and we’re stuffed to the brim with beer and beef, so we responsibly plan to resume after the Monday workday.
Quan Xanh 8 67-69 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung A festering foot injury unrelated to the previous nights’ drinking prompts Dara to visit the hospital. The doctor asks him what he does here, and he replies that he’s writing about bia hoi in Hanoi. “Oh,” she says, and makes a face like she’s just burp-puked. “I don’t like them. My husband is an engineer, and he goes there every day, good or bad. There are too many reasons to go to a bia hoi in Vietnam.” After the doctor reassures Dara that his foot isn’t going to fall off, he goes to the bia hoi to drink to his health (a solid reason). Quan Xanh is an oasis of calm next to the circus rotunda at the north end of Reunification Park. He’s two hours too early to meet the others, so he gets comfortable with a book under a canopy of creeping vines and hanging roots. Although the draught beer is unexciting and relatively expensive (glass of Tiger / VND30,000), this place still has the garden, the attentive staff, the quality food. It’s a bit like Singapore, really. Some people like it because it’s clean and orderly, while others hate it for exactly the same reasons. However, if you like okey-dokey beer in a place where fancy beer girls saunter around in green velour cocktail dresses, then this is the place for you.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 97
Come Here For: An intimate beer garden, and a free salad with five beers. Drawbacks: Middle-of-the-road beer; kinda pricey for what you get.
9
Bia Lan Chin 9 22 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem Pulling up to the last stop feels surreal. Have we become the beer equivalent of Soda Kid? Delirium is setting in. The penultimate round of beer emerges, and it’s as perfect as bia hoi gets: frothy, crisp, sweet. We order another round and flip through the massive menu, which reads like a passenger list for Noah’s Ark. Dishes range from stir-fried geoduck with polygonum leaves, something straight out of Harry Potter, to snail with green banana and tofu (VND150,000). Fearing wizardry yet craving some intrigue, we opt for the latter. It’s odd but tasty, and the bites of juicy shallots and fatty pork steal the show. The air is soupy and the fans point elsewhere. The ladies in our group are forced to pile their sticky hair into high buns. Ah, to be a woman in a bia hoi. Noey says she could write a whole feminist discourse on the gender inequality inherent in these establishments, but she’s far too drunk for that. Some preliminary evidence: the ladies’ room has been bolted shut. Only urinals here, folks. Come Here For: Experimental eating; good cheap beer; local vibes. Drawbacks: The bathroom, if you don’t stand to pee; the heat from the street and lack of fans.
In Conclusion Did we get to the bottom of our philosophical pondering on bia hoi-ness? Perhaps the only things we got to the bottom of were 50 glasses of beer. However, in a world of doubt and subjectivity, our extensive scholarly research yielded, at the very least, some drunken opinions that we can defend with belligerence. Bia hoi joints are more than just the fresh beer, cheap food, and fluorescent lighting. A bia hoi is its particular atmosphere, a unique experience on a given night, and a social pivot point where cultures meet. Of course, what makes any one better than another depends on your wallet, taste in beers, and tolerance of dinginess. Before you get all huffy at us for leaving out your favourite bia hoi, let us state for the record that had we done an exhaustive bia hoi crawl of Hanoi, we’d probably not have the lifeblood in us to write our last will and testament, let alone this article. So we selected nine bia hoi that, as far as bia hoi go, offered diversity, Now, onward comrades. If the question is to bia or not to bia, the answer lies clearly ahead.
98 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
4
4
3
2
4
“We order another round and flip through the massive menu, which reads like a passenger list for Noah’s Ark. Dishes range from stir-fried geoduck with polygonum leaves, something straight out of Harry Potter, to snail with green banana and tofu” 3
5
1
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 99
Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
The Republic One of Tay Ho’s most popular venues gets the nod from our undercover reviewer. Photos by Trung Del
B
arely a year ago, Quang An, a once quaint offshoot of Xuan Dieu, had only a handful of food and beverage offerings. And then, almost overnight, the once inconspicuous townhouses and not-so-successful restaurants between The Warehouse and Don’s Bistro disappeared, replaced by a bustling strip of gastro pubs and ethnic eateries. Housed in a grand white villa, The Republic, headed by a former member Al Fresco’s management team, Chris Vella, has arguably led the revival of the Quang An strip. In the process, it has become one of West Lake’s most popular venues.
100 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
It’s easy to see why. The venue is spaciously divided between a sports bar on the ground floor and upper levels that offer the choice between indoor and outdoor terrace seating, with more padded wicker chairs than you can throw a steak knife at. Then there’s the restaurant part. The leather-bound menus are crammed full of comfort food, ranging from the gluten-free — tzatziki and roasted red pepper hummus (VND210,000) — to the mouthwatering, including the Wagyu beef and blue cheese burger (VND250,000) that made our very own Best Burgers list earlier this year.
Something Extra But The Republic’s appeal is not just about pretty aesthetics or having enough soul food to fill a New Orleans diner. What many venues overlook or struggle to create, it has effortlessly engineered: a hip and — most importantly — fun vibe that makes it a compelling choice for diners. On weekend afternoons, the terrace throbs with young families, groups clinking wine glasses and dusty-looking hangover types, all tucking into hearty fare served on the restaurant’s trademark butcher’s blocks, and bobbing their heads to an endearing mix of tunes echoing from supersized speakers.
THE VERDICT
13 FOOD
13
SERVICE
12 DÉCOR
As the old adage says: you get what you pay for, and although The Republic’s prices place it at the higher end of the dining spectrum, the restaurant’s flair for consistently good food and western-style customer service delivers value, evident during one of its consistently busy lunchtime or weekend brunch slots.
A Spicy Start When we visited, we opted to start with the tequila lime chicken wings (VND180,000), which came perfectly baked on a rustic butcher’s block and served with a decadent sweet garlic sour cream. Each bite gave a pleasant kick of lime and chilli, and hints of tequila that had infused with
the chicken nicely in the oven. The lamb cutlets (VND360,000) served on a piping hot plate with three decently-sized cutlets, came beautifully presented on top of chunky pieces of homemade sage gnocchi and a bed of French peas, soaking in a nice rich mote of minted jus. While the jus lacked just a tad of seasoning, the lamb was succulent and cooked to a perfect medium rare. Forgoing cutlery, we ate the cutlets straight from our hands, pausing in between bites to soak the lamb in its glorious juices ripping it fresh off the bone.
Sweet, Sweet Success To finish, we tucked into a massive
mug of decadently rich mocha mousse served with a coffee and almond biscotti (VND130,000). But while the mousse was whipped to the right consistency, by the fourth spoonful the rich flavours had become a tad overwhelming, perhaps making it a good choice for those with a strong sweet tooth. Overall, whether it’s for a sleepy Sunday brunch or a group dinner overlooking the lake, The Republic’s versatile menu, great setting and topnotch service make it a compelling choice for those looking for a new place to call a home away from home. The Republic is located at 7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi or online at republic.vn
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink
STREE T SNAC KER
Banh G io 102 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
HANOI
I
Hanoians like to snack. And when it comes to their favourite bites, banh gio, a savoury, pyramid-like dumpling found all over the capital, sits top of the pile. Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by Julie Vola
n Hanoi, streetside food stalls can be found everywhere — from hidden alleys in the Old Quarter to newly-constructed roads in the expanding city, to the makeshift afternoon stalls set up by wandering street peddlers. This is why as the sun goes down, it is difficult for Hanoians to resist the temptation to snack. The range of Hanoi’s snack food is diverse. From nom or mixed salad, oc luoc or boiled snails, banh ran or deep-fried glutinous rice ball to small bowls of pho on street pavements, these snacks have become a part of the city’s daily routine. Among these tempting snacks, banh gio or a pyramid-shaped rice dough dumpling, is a favourite. Filled with pork, shallots, minced mushroom and pepper, the dumpling comes wrapped in banana leaf.
Against the Grain I remember reading an article where a writer described banh gio as second to none on Hanoi’s diverse menu of street food. For me, this traditional dumpling is a dish that contradicts many norms. First, banh gio is best eaten hot, making it ideal for wintertime when every bite of the dumpling embraces the cold enveloping your body. Yet, in the heat of the Hanoi summer, this dumpling is equally as popular. Streetside stalls selling this heavenly dish are crammed with customers. And people eat banh gio at any time
of the day — for breakfast, as a snack or even for lunch. As a rule of thumb, Vietnamese food is well-presented. However, banh gio is absolutely not. Some people think the pyramid shape gives the dumpling a sublime look. Personally, banh gio looks ugly to me. Both its appearance in the steamed green banana leaf and even the white and smooth dumpling inside, do not look tempting. However, in English there is a saying — looks deceive. In Vietnamese this translates to “tot go hon tot nuoc son” or good wood is better than good paint, a perfect description of banh gio.
Trade Secrets Tasty banh gio can be bought in markets, alleyways and near schools. Many head to the crossroad of Ngo Thi Nham and Tran Xuan Soan to satisfy their cravings, while others go to the banh gio eatery at 5 Thuy Khue or to the stalls in Nguyen Cong Tru Market. “The dumpling looks simple, but it is very healthy. The white dumpling wrapped in green banana leaf is regarded as the quintessence of heaven and earth,” says a vendor who has sold banh gio for more than 20 years at the crossroads of Ngo Thi Nham. The pyramid-shaped dumpling is made from a mixture of ingredients including plain rice flour, minced lean meat, shallots, minced mushroom and pepper. “The
process of stirring and kneading flour is the most important. This determines whether the dumpling is delicious or not,” continues the vendor, who prefers to remain anonymous but is said to make the best dough in Hanoi. Banh gio is always kept hot within rattan baskets under sheets of insulating plastic. When diners order, the vendor unwraps the parcel, cutting away superfluous leaf and presents the dumpling on a plastic plate. The dumpling is then topped with condiments including cucumber paired with gio lua or Vietnamese sausage, gio bo (beef sausage) and often cha com (ham with young rice). “Many young Hanoians like eating banh gio with cha com and cucumber,” says Ms. Hoa, the owner of the banh gio joint on Thuy Khue. According to Hoa, every afternoon she sells several hundred banh gio. As well as the above condiments, another pre-requisite is chilli sauce in squirt bottles. However, a friend of mine believes that banh gio should not have condiments added to it. It is tasty enough to eat by itself. I couldn’t agree more. Banh gio can be found at Banh Gio Thuy Khue, 5 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho; the vendor at the crossroads of Ngo Thi Nham and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung or in Nguyen Cong Tru Market. Banh gio costs from VND15,000 to VND30,000 (including condiments)
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 103
Food and Drink
MYSTERY DINER
HCMC
The Dining Room On a rainy night in Saigon our mystery diner finds something quite special. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
I
t’s as if we’ve stepped inside a Murakami novel. The hands on my watch say seven PM, yet the deserted restaurant, with its subdued lighting and pristine spread of empty tables, interrupted only by a single solo diner in the corner, suggests a far later hour. The night’s storm has swallowed the city and everyone in it. We have the world to ourselves. Ushering us through warm pools of copper light, an immaculately dressed maitre d’ proudly presents our table in front of the floor-toceiling windows which look down over a rain-soaked Hai Ba Trung. Outside, a few brave souls clutch umbrellas and leap from awning to awning as the ever-expanding puddles explode beneath the tyres of the Vinasun parade. Starting with a truly moreish bottle of house red (a Chilean Merlot for VND665,000), we browse The Dining Room’s carefully constructed
104 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
menu of modern Vietnamese cuisine. Starters move from fresh Vietnamese salads to spring rolls, dumplings and more. For the most part, prices remain firmly below the VND150,000 mark. We single out the deepfried stuffed pumpkin flowers (VND85,000). Void of the greasiness that can spoil many such offerings, the dish is elegant in both flavour and appearance. The ground pork filling is generous and finds a pleasant lift in the fresh greenery and crunch surrounding it. Served with a ginger soy sauce, the combination of flavours and textures is simple yet divine.
Renovated Traditions First on the list of mains (and most affordable) is a rolled strip-loin of beef with enoki mushroom and oyster sauce (VND135,000). I could end my quest here. But the choices just get better, covering creative
combinations such as sea bass and edamame (VND195,000), king prawns with green mango (VND485,000) and a grilled rack of lamb with lemongrass sauce (VND550,000). A side-list of luxurious soups leads into a handful of stir-fried offerings and then onto a small but eclectic vegetarian section. Despite being his only customers tonight, our waiter is admirably patient, giving us the time and space we need to make some seriously tough decisions. Opportunity cost (otherwise known as ‘food-envy’) can be a painful lesson in the world of high-end cuisine. When the grilled beef fillet arrives (VND365,000), I know I’ve chosen well. It looks stunning, bursting with colour and craftsmanship while staying clear of any overlypretentious visual gimmicks. The Australian tenderloin is good enough to earn top marks on its own, but when combining it with
THE VERDICT
13.5 FOOD
14
SERVICE
14 DÉCOR
the slightly bitter Chinese kale, and a smear of the mashed sweet potato, things really start to kick off. There’s more. Atop each cube of potato sits a primed firework of flavour; an Asian-style salsa housed inside the fragile outer-shell of a blushed pink baby onion. Blend everything together and the hit of sweetness transforms ‘excellent’ into ‘exceptional’. My partner’s grilled duck breast with fried ginger and mango is equally impressive. The flavours are carefully balanced; nothing is overpowering, yet it’s still deliciously rich and bold. It’s a refreshing way to enjoy local cuisine. “Our idea is to introduce Vietnamese food in a different way,” reads the restaurant’s website. “Our chef is not creating a fusion however, nor classic.” But this really is Vietnamese food. A tiny table and a tissue dispenser are not the only signs of an authentic meal in this
city. When it comes to desserts, “we suggest you order two or three each,” says our waiter. Well, if I must. At just VND25,000 the miniature offerings are great value. I line up a selection of fruity mousses and a flan. My companion chooses a slice of the slightly pricier banana cake (VND40,000). Served with a pleasantly sharp, alcoholic fruit reduction, the banana cake steals the show. Food envy has arrived.
The Verdict The Dining Room may very well get full marks on a second visit (and there will be a second visit), but I must be irritatingly picky when things approach perfection. Firstly, the cork of our wine had been pierced on opening, something we didn’t realise until the final glass was poured. Again, not major, but when VND4 million bottles are on offer, it has to be right.
The food, again, was fantastic. For the price, too, one cannot complain. The duck, however, was slightly over-cooked, its lush pink centre disappointingly faint by the time it reached us. Also, given the showstopping dishes filling the rest of the menu, the desserts somehow lacked the same pizazz. While the banana cake was good, the mousses and flan were a little similar in flavour and I was left yearning for something a little more decadent. It’s of little consequence really. This place is seriously deserving of your attention, and the five three-course fixed lunch menus are outrageously good value at VND190,000. Unfortunately, though, I can’t promise that you’ll have the place to yourselves. The Dining Room is open daily from 11am to 3pm and 6pm to 11pm, and is located above Blanchy’s Tash at 93-95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City. Visit diningroom.vn
Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15. 13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals
Food and Drink STREET SNACKER
HCMC
Vinh Khanh
Natalia Martinez gets her hands messy in District 4’s Vinh Khanh Street. Fancy some snails anyone?. Photos by Kyle Phanroy
F
ood and its various traditions are quite simply a big part of Vietnamese culture. Yet its not just one type of cuisine we’re talking about here. There are many. And among all those different cuisines, the world of snails and shellfish is one of the best known. It’s certainly one of the most enjoyable.
Go Oc or Go Home The national craving for oc or shellfish dates back centuries. On the menu of many a streetside joint you will find infinite types of oc: snails, scallops, clams, oysters and mussels as well as crab, swimming crab, shrimp and in fact almost as many crustaceans as you can think of. They come from two different sources: the East Sea and fresh water — rivers, lakes and even rice paddies. The map of Saigon offers a few popular streets where you can have some oc fun. One of the favourites is
106 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Vinh Khanh. As you venture down this long street you’ll see a vibrant scene: motorbikes driving around, street food vendors, karaoke singers, fire-eaters. If you like oc you’re in luck — both sides are crowded with oc specialists. If you want to ease yourself into this culture gradually, look for crowded places. The most famous and renowned eatery in this category is Oc Oanh. Get ready to experience a whole oc party to the rhythm of mot-haiba-vo! Because this tapas-like adventure wouldn’t be what it is if there wasn’t beer involved. The perfect ingredient for a damn good evening.
It’s Time to Hold the Beer and Order Now it’s time for the hard part: what to order. You’ll typically have more than 20 different options to choose from, cooked in various styles and
served with an assortment of sauces. But the good news is that you will need a lot of them to get full. And even better news — it’s cheap. As you dig into snails, crack some shells, drink some icy beer and wait for more food to come, random vendors will offer other snacks to accompany the feast — peanuts, boiled quail eggs and sour mango.
The Alternative If you aren’t into oc and you are looking for some other options, try the grill-it-yourself barbecue at Quan BBQ Lua. Here you can enjoy any kind of meat, cooked in many different styles. Or you can go for something different and try some grilled frog dipped in green chilli sauce. Oc Oanh is open daily until 11pm, 534 Vinh Khanh, Q4, Ho Chi Minh City. Quan BBQ Lua is open daily until midnight, 33 Vinh Khanh, Q4, Ho Chi Minh City.
Oc Recommendations — OC
HUONG RAN MUOI OT
— SO
DIEP NUONG MO HANH
(fried sea snails with salt and chilli) (grilled scallops with spring onions and peanuts)
— C UA
OT VA MUOI (grilled crab with salt and chilli)
— N GHEU
HAP SA (clams steamed in lemongrass and chilli)
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 107
Fashion
108 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
urbex encounters Exploring the forbidden, the forgotten and the forsaken is the essence of urban discovery. The urban explorer is fearless, bold and flirts with danger. This season, streetwear meets sports luxe as we venture out-of-bounds and uncover the hidden heart of modern Hanoi. Photography: Julie Vola Models: Ashley and Thu Styling: David Mann and Julie Vola
Top and shoes: INFAMOUS developed by BOO Skirt: Women Rock wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 109
Top: Women Rock Pants: INFAMOUS developed by BOO Jewelry and shoes: ZALORA
Shirts and shorts by Brooks Brothers
110 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Ashley Top: ZALORA x TKC | Pants: LIIQ Rush | Jewelry and shoes: ZALORA Thu Top: Women Rock | Pants: INFAMOUS by BOO | Jewelry: ZALORA
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 111
Ashley Dress: LIIQ Rush | Necklace: Kilomet 109 | Bag: aN Thu Top: LIIQ Rush | Skirt: INFAMOUS by BOO | Bracelet: ZALORA
112 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
ZALORA zalora.vn ZALORA x TKC (Trang Khieu collection) zalora.vn/trang-khieu-collection WOMEN ROCK womenrock.vn 20 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi LIIQ rush liiqrush.com 43 Nui Truc, Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi INFAMOUS developed by BOO infamous.vn 18 ﾄ進en Bien Phu, Hanoi aN facebook.com/aN1708 8 Ly Dao Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Kilomet 109 facebook.com/pages/Kilomet109 Retail Store: Module 7, No 83, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
Top and pants: ZALORA x TKC Bag: aN | Jewelry: ZALORA wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 113
Travel
TRAVEL
VIETNAM
The Old Houses of Duong Lam 114 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 115
Where people are hospitable, there’s no need to confine your urban exploits to abandoned houses. David Mann (words), Julie Vola (photos) and Mai Thu Trang (translation) found such people in Duong Lam, householders of some of the oldest houses in Vietnam
F
or the average tourist, getting lost in the alleys of one of Vietnam’s oldest villages, Duong Lam, probably doesn’t rank high on the to-do list. But there are plenty of reasons why it should. Located just a smidgen over 50km west of Hanoi, Duong Lam was once the heart of a bustling urban centre, famed for its trade and pottery, and the birthplace of not one but two of Vietnam’s founding kings. Recognised by UNESCO in 2013 for its restoration efforts, Duong Lam’s centuriesold laterite brick houses, gated archways and paved alleys are a far cry from the concrete and steel leaping out of the ground in the nation’s capital. Accessible by motorcycle, the fairly comfortable ride to this ancient citadel follows the Red River to the historic town of Son Tay, offering amazing views of rural agricultural landscapes along the way. Duong Lam isn’t exactly a bustling tourist hot spot, and the foreigners who do visit are whisked through the town from the north, with routine stops made at Duong Lam’s best-known attractions. These are well worth a look themselves, especially Mong Phu Temple in Mong Phu Hamlet, Mia Pagoda and Ngo Quyen Temple, dedicated to the general who expelled the Chinese from northern Vietnam at the end of the 10th century. But it is away from Duong Lam’s celebrated attractions that the erstwhile
116 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
explorer can really uncover the layers of this serene, ancient city. Alley Detour Starting at the southern end of Duong Lam Village on Doai Giap Road, you’ll soon find yourself navigating a maze of narrow stone alleyways, weaving their way past high walls and wooden doors concealing secret gardens and passageways. While these parts are rarely seen by tourists, that isn’t to say that visitors aren’t welcome. In fact, quite the opposite. Our first stop was a house we stumbled upon in the back alley of Cho Mia. The roof was old but fragile, the laterite masonry aged but beautiful. Bike tyres hung suspended under each pillar holding up its dilapidated roof. Then Quang beckoned us in. The house was 135 years old and had been in Quang’s family for three generations. The decorated army veteran lived with his wife, who told us the town’s prized heritage status had been a double-edged sword. “The house is old and needs work, but we have to get permission to renovate,” she said. Half-an-hour later we were back on our unguided walkabout, and soon stumbled upon a handsome wooden facade surrounded by high brick walls and emerald vines — the vines completely covering the top of the wall, further hiding it from the outside world. We knocked and heard footsteps
approaching from the other side. An aged face appeared, bewildered by the two foreigners standing and smiling sheepishly. Our translator jumped in to save us, detailing our crusade to see the ancient wooden houses hidden behind the walls. The householder, Binh, then smiled and beckoned us to follow him. “You’re lucky, not many locals would invite a foreigner inside for tea unless you paid them,” our translator said as we climbed our way through the shutters of the 300-year-old timber house. “This house has been here since before the French,” said Binh. “Even before my grandparents were born — and it is still standing strong. It even withstood fighting from the war.” We looked up and admired the dark wooden beams, decorated with photos of airbrushed smiling babies and of a time when Binh and his wife once toiled in the fields as farmers. Despite being 72 years old and barely clearing five feet, Binh wasn’t short on personality. At one point, he slapped my chest and raised his hand up to my head, questioning the source of my six-foot, twoinch frame. As we prepared to leave, he showed us his cheeky grin and poured us a second glass of tea. Raising his glass, he said, “A good life is one with tea, adventures, alcohol and beautiful women.” I say cheers to that, Binh.
“‘You’re lucky, not many locals would invite a foreigner inside for tea unless you paid them,’ our translator said as we climbed our way through the shutters of the 300-year old timber house”
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 117
Travel
“Over th rock star e past five years full dista bottle of wine in Curtis, always w n year he f ce of the now-de hand, has walkedith a ound t funct l the that had he last tunnel, th ine. Earlier this eo yet to be ‘discover ne section ed’”
118 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
TRAVEL
VIETNAM
The Last Tunnel wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 119
Since 2010 we have documented the rediscovery of the now-defunct train line from Dalat to Thap Cham. A few months ago, the final, missing section was explored. Francis Xavier and Kyle Phanroy were on hand to document. Words by Nick Ross
C
urtis King is not just a musician, he’s a train buff, an obsessive in the guise of Eddie Van Halen, who has used his adopted home of Dalat to further three passions — playing the blues, doing business and thinking about trains. Recently his biggest focus has been the now mainly defunct train line running between Dalat and Thap Cham in Central Vietnam. Completed in 1932, the train line transported passengers and cargo from the heat of coastal twin cities Thap Cham-Phan Rang to the cool, high-altitude hill station of Dalat. Thanks to its cog railway technology, it was able to traverse the steep mountain passes on its ascent to Dalat, making it unique among Vietnam’s train routes. Built with a central, serrated rail between the tracks that connected to a cogwheel under the steam-powered locomotive, the rail provided traction to allow the train to ascend steep slopes and keep it from sliding too fast when it descended downhill. Finally closed in 1968 after repeated wartime bombing, now only one section remains — the increasingly touristy route from Dalat to Trai Mat. Most of the rest has been salvaged for scrap, and the stations that have survived the excesses of time and climate are in ruins.
The Final Section Over the past five years Curtis, always with a rock star bottle of wine in hand, has walked the full distance of the now-defunct
120 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
line. Earlier this year he found the last tunnel, the one section that had yet to be ‘discovered’. Like a modern-era Columbus sailing to the Promised Land, he phoned me up excited. First I was invited on the trek to the last tunnel — I am also a bit of a trainspotter. And for me, there’s nothing better than shooting the breeze as you trek through the alpine-covered mountain countryside east of Dalat. I’ve done it twice now, written about the journey, and will certainly do it again. Yet the timing was bad. I had to decline. Then he called me in the aftermath. He was having convulsions. For five minutes I sat on our office balcony listening to his story about the trek and, of course, the last tunnel. At the end of the day it’s just a tunnel, a black hole with light on one end, darkness in the middle and light at the other. But when you’ve made it your mission to trace the full route of the former train line, completing it is a buzz. Once again I was tied up, unable to leave Saigon, unable to retrace the final route. So instead over the Apr. 30 weekend we sent two photographers, Kyle Phanroy and Francis Xavier, on the trip. Their photos of the surviving tunnels, the Dalat countryside and the ruined station at Da Tho are a testament to the journey started and now completed by Curtis.
So When Do the Tours Start? The answer is, they don’t. And if Curtis has
his way, they never will. “I prefer to visit the tunnels with small groups,” he explains, “preferably train enthusiasts. Realistically, abandoned train tunnels — fortunately — are not the stuff of mass tourism.” And there’s also an ulterior motive. Curtis is presently working with the Vietnam Railway Company and investors to redevelop the train line. Together with his wife Thuy, he’s already rented out some of the train villas close to Dalat Station, and converted them into a café
and guesthouse. But the big picture goal is to rebuild the line. Says Curtis: “We have assembled an international team of train, tunnel and bridge experts to advise us on reconstructing the rail line. We recently completed an initial survey of the existing state of the tunnels. Our next step is to prepare a full feasibility study. This is going to take time.” He’s not alone in trying to bring life back to Vietnam’s railway system. Another investor, New Zealand-born Mike Gebbie,
is setting up a steam train journey over the Hai Van Pass from Hue to Danang. But if you are a train buff and want to see the old line right now, there is an option. Head to V Café (vcafedalatvietnam. com) or to the Train Villas (dalattrainvilla. com) and ask for Thuy or Curtis. If you ask nicely, they might just take you down there themselves. For more information on the reconstruction of the Dalat-Thap Cham railway line, do a search on Facebook for the ‘Dalat Thap Cham Cog Railway Restoration Project’
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 121
122 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Not the last tunnel to be discovered. This one is further up the line, closer to Dalat
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 123
Travel
124 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Raising the Bar Vietnam is building itself an enviable collection of beautifully designed cafes and bars. But for the city that has made bar design into an art form, you need to head to Melbourne. Words by Jon Aspin
I
The Gin Palace
n terms of those mid to high-end range bars to lose your wallet in, in Vietnam we’re punching well above our weight. Even if you didn’t see our December 2014 issue, where we handed out The Wordie Awards, you’re probably familiar with names like Martini Bar, Chill and Xu in Saigon. In Hanoi, it was the likes of 88 Lounge, Barbetta and CAMA ATK that made the cut. As good as these joints are though, it’s good to get off the beaten track. So what better way to do that than leave the country, fly to Melbourne, and go on an inner-city laneway pub-crawl? The plan was to experience as many of the city’s best bars as I could. Known for the uniqueness of its watering holes, there’s no such thing as a generic bar in the Central Business District (CBD). For company I had my friend Dani, a partner-in-drinking who’d told me previously that her favourite meal was gin. Putting out the call for ideas on social media, I got some interesting responses. It didn’t matter in the end because at some
point I deleted the message by mistake. I then ran out of Wi-Fi coverage. This is Australia we’re talking about — we don’t do Wi-Fi yet.
The Gin Palace 10 Russell Place ginpalace.com.au First stop and I’d been here before. The ‘GP’ is a staple of Melbourne drinkers, a classy, cavernous boudoir — definitely no burger meal deals here, just awesome drinks. Dani said it had a “Saudi prince vibe”, which must be everything to do with the crushed velvet and tassles. Since my last visit they’d expanded, and in my opinion lost some of their intimacy. But this didn’t stop us getting intimate with a couple of world-class gin mixes — and immediately break our rule of one drink per location. If it weren’t for our stated mission, we would have easily settled in here for the night. The best part? Despite appearances, not a hint of pretentiousness. Highly recommended — four-and-a-half stars.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 125
Lily Blacks
126 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Lily Blacks 12 Meyers Place lilyblacks.com.au Lily Blacks was on the way to somewhere else, but was still on our radar. More of an afterworker than a late-nighter, by the time we got there it was empty. The bar has a rockabilly vibe about it, and even the Monday night barflies seemed like they’d be fun. We did have rules to stick by, though, so the bartender put on quite a show of pouring us an espresso martini each. It was my fault; I shouldn’t have told him I was writing this article. But it was good, and I figured some caffeine with our alcohol wasn’t going to hurt us right now. See you next time Lily — three stars.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 127
The Croft Institute
The Croft Institute Croft Alley thecroftinstitute.com The Croft is another Melbourne institution. It’s famous for test tube shooters and cocktail syringes, and is decked-out like a science lab crossed with an insane asylum. Not
128 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
all of the three levels were open when we got there, at the end of one of the skankiest-slash-trendiest alleyways in town — you don’t even think you’re going to get there until you do. It also attracts a lot of tourists, and we met a bunch of Swedish backpackers that night. Julia from
Malmo said it was something she hadn’t seen before, and she’d definitely be back. Anna from Stockholm said something else, but the ’90s hip-hop was way too loud for me to know what. Sticky-floored fun, if only I was 10 years younger — three-and-ahalf stars.
Siglo
Lanes Edge Café 39 Bourke Street lanesedge.com Meyers Place was shut. Damn. Mondays aren’t good days for alcoholics. Never far from another drink, though, we simply went across the road to a beer garden, and it was actually pretty cool. Lanes Edge Café had a well-stocked bar, a cosy backyard atmosphere and an owner who was way chill about us ordering after last shout. We got chatting to some locals, mostly international students taking advantage of the cheap long necks of Carlton Draught. They told us a bunch of stories about bars hidden in butcher’s freezers and happy hours hosted in disused shipping containers. We swapped contacts and promised to meet up next time. That might not happen, but you gotta
love the Aussies sometimes. Also, Lanes Edge had the hottest bar staff of the night — four stars.
Siglo 161 Spring Street theeuropean.com.au Our final stop. Happily smashed, Dani and I were ready to put this one to bed when we left Lanes Edge, but Siglo seemed to give us a second wind. Perched on a rooftop opposite Parliament House, right in the heart of the CBD, we were surrounded by the most eclectic and energetic crowd of the night. Sat opposite was a bona fide metal band, who’d just performed a sell out show — those guys weren’t holding back. Some foreign suits with ‘friends’ sat nearby, it was approximately 2am by the way.
Further away there were some bohemian artist types — was that a jazz cigarette I was smelling? The drinks were high class, too, even if they were overpriced. The music was great — classic Motown hits. We were in the middle of the city and this was a good way to end our night. Laughing about how well it had all turned out, we made a good call to cut ourselves off just before someone else did. Thanks for the memories, Siglo. Can’t wait for my next ‘Old Cuban’ — four stars.
In Conclusion... So there you are, five bars and about five hours of solid upmarket drinking in Melbourne’s famous CBD. This is by no way an exhaustive or definitive list, but if you want to get your dose of some of the most inventive (and fun) bars in the world, get yourself down to Melbourne.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 129
Travel
DALAT ANA MANDARA VILLAS $$$$ Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063) 3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE $$$$ 12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property. FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.
This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations. HOTEL DE L’OPERA 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat, Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL $ 22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: (063) 382 2663
M M M HANOI – INTERNATIONAL CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL $$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories. DAEWOO HOTEL 360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 5555
hanoi-daewoohotel.com
130 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space. The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi. HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI 20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944 9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped guestrooms and suites, this is the first Hilton Garden Inn property in Southeast Asia. Centrally located and a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with complimentary business and fitness centres making it perfect for the international business or leisure traveller. HILTON HANOI OPERA 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short stroll from the Old Quarter, this five-star hotel is a Hanoi landmark. With 269 fully-equipped rooms and suites, there’s plenty for the discerning business and leisure traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6270 8888
hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort. Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, topend accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club. JW MARRIOTT HANOI 8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the authentic signature JW Marriott services inside, this Marriott hotel in Hanoi is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next door to the National Convention Centre. MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER 43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, 110 rooms, a swimming pool, a top floor terrace bar and a location just a stone’s throw from Hoan Kiem Lake make this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in the heart of the action. MELIA HANOI 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied. MÖVENPICK HOTEL HANOI 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment. Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking. PULLMAN HANOI HOTEL $$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 0688
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter. SHERATON K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown. In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa. There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge. SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919
sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night. SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI 1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
M M M HANOI – MID-RANGE 6 ON SIXTEEN 16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee. GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928 6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable
minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine. JOSEPH’S HOTEL $$ 5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3938 1048
josephshotel.com
Located next to the cathedral, this popular wellappointed, airy and spacious boutique hotel mixes comfort with a nice ambience and great Western or Vietnamese breakfasts. All the modern amenities at reasonable prices. MAISON D’HANOI HANOVA HOTEL $$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar. MAY DE VILLE 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.
M M M HANOI – BUDGET HANOI BACKBACKER’S HOSTEL 48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 5372
hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
M M M HCMC – INTERNATIONAL CARAVELLE HOTEL $$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Report’s 2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections. EQUATORIAL $$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an on-site casino. HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON $$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services. INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON $$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade. LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON $$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine. NEW WORLD HOTEL $$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
saigon.newworldhotels.com
Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town. PARK HYATT $$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool. PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE $$$$$ 148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the site of the old Metropole, this upscale, contemporary property boasts 306 signature rooms combining design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine, a great downtown location and hightech meeting venues able to
host up to 600 guests make up the mix. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility. RIVERSIDE RENAISSANCE $$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant. SHERATON $$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor. SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA $$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon. WINDSOR PLAZA $$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel: (08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.
M M M HCMC – DELUXE CONTINENTAL $$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
NORFOLK HOTEL $$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso. NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE $$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa. VILLA SONG SAIGON $$$ 197/2 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6090
villasong.com
Deliberately located away from the city centre in Thao Dien, this riverside boutique villa-style hotel is a sanctuary of peace and calm — a rarity in Ho Chi Minh City. Beautiful, Indochine-influenced design, a great setting and good drinking and dining options make this a great, non-city centre choice. STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL $$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.
Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area. DUNA HOTEL $ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL $ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL $ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
M M M HOI AN & DANANG AN BANG BEACH RETREAT An Bang Beach, Hoi An
anbangbeachretreat.com
CUA DAI $ 544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel: (0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$ Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 396 1800
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel: (0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool. MERCURE DANANG $$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang, Tel: (0511) 379 7777
mercure-danang.com
Set on the Han River, this well-appointed, Accor-managed property is one of the nicest hotels in Central Danang. Kitsch but contemporary design and some phenomenal views over the city make up the mix.
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT $$$$ Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: (0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the stunning white sands of Bac My An Beach, the stylish Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities and facilities for the modern traveller. With an idyllic setting, this luxury property is perfect for a family holiday or romantic beach getaway. And with extensive function facilities, Pullman Danang also provides the a great location for your next incentive getaway or event.
THE NAM HAI $$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394 0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.
danangbeachresort.com.vn
Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral
M M M HCMC - MID-RANGE ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON $$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2 $$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL $$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256 9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
M M M HCMC – BUDGET DUC VUONG HOTEL $ 195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 6992
Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
ducvuonghotel.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 131
Travel
M M M HUE & LANG CO ANGSANA LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors. BANYAN TREE LANG CO $$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods. LA RESIDENCE $$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383 7475
la–residence–hue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL $ 66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382 6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
M M M NHA TRANG
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT $ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature. MIA RESORT NHA TRANG $$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG $$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: (058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates. SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH VAN BAY $$$$ Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372 8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/ninhvan-bay/destination The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006. The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL AND SPA $$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058) 388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
M M M EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA $$$$ Beachside Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 352 2222
sixsenses.com/evason-resorts/ana-mandara/destination
2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.
Photo by Matt Dworzanczyk
132 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
PHAN THIET & MUI NE NINH CHU BAY BEACH CLUB & BAR Hwy 702, Ninh Hai, Phan Rang, Ninh Thuan, Tel: (068) 627 2727
ninhchubay.com
Enjoy the private beach with excellent facilities and have a massage. Evenings are sublime at this beach club, soon to become a fully fledged resort. Grilled seafood, European sausages, sangria, draught beer, and specialityinfused vodka all make this
one of a kind destination. BLUE OCEAN RESORT $$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn life-resorts.com
easytigerphongnha@gmail. com
A hostel and street-front bar all in one. Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.
COCO BEACH $$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 384 7111
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY $$ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY $$ Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 5135
cocobeach.net
JOE’S GARDEN RESORT $$ 86 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7177
joescafemuine.com
A leafy, seafront bungalow resort and café with nightly live music all in one. Reminiscent of the type of places you’d find on the Thai islands, an international and Asian food menu together with a cheap happy hour on beer make up the relaxing mix.
phong-nha-homestay.com
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
M M M PHU QUOC
MIA RESORT MUI NE $$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
BEACH CLUB RESORT $$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062) 381 3000
A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged. Discount rates during rainy season.
miamuine.com
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.
M M M PHONG NHA EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR $ Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
beachclubvietnam.com
MANGO BAY $$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An eco–friendly approach with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar. SALINDA PHU QUOC ISLAND, RESORT AND SPA Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Commune, Phu Quoc, Tel:
(077) 399 0011
salindaresort.com
A five-star luxury beach resort, hotel and spa right on the beach of Phu Quoc island in the peaceful town of Duong To, just 4km from the international airport of Phu Quoc.
M M M SAPA CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates. The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces. TOPAS ECOLODGE $$$ Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and valley, Topas Ecolodge is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains — the landscape, the fresh air and the ethnic peoples. Guests stay in private bungalows with dinner served in a local stilt house restaurant.
M M M VUNG TAU & HO TRAM BINH AN VILLAGE $$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT $$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a
TRAVEL PROMOS
The pool at Sheraton Nha Trang
Escape the Summer Heat at Ho Tram thegrandhotram.com Summer is the best time of year to have fun, rest and relax. Add in a little Vegas style glamour and the Ho Tram Resort Casino Vietnam does sound like a pretty good getaway. The new Summer Escape package VND2,888,000VND++ per night on weekdays and VND3,888,000++ per night on Friday and Saturday nights, is valid until Sep. 30 and includes daily international buffet breakfast for two and access to the resort pools, a swim-up bar and spa. The Bluffs championship golf course was officially added to the development in October last year, and of course the property also boasts the largest world-class casino in Vietnam. So that’s pool, golf, casino — in any order you like! Add in eat, sleep and repeat, and we think that’s more than just pretty good. For more information or to make a reservation, please contact Ho Tram Resort on (064) 378 8022 or email reservations@ thegrandhotram.com
rates starting from just VND1,290,000 per room, per night with daily breakfast for two and complimentary Wi-Fi internet access. Valid until Oct. 31, 2015. For info email reservations@ mercurehoianroyal.com
Banyan Tree Lang Co banyantree.com Can’t decide between Hue and Danang? Well, how about somewhere in between? With stunning views of the East Sea and the magnificent Truong Son mountain range in the background, the tranquil and intimate Banyan Tree Lang Co is a great destination for a romantic getaway with that special someone. To help you with your romantic designs, the resort is offering a Stay 3 Pay 2 offer until Dec. 19, 2015. Costing VND7.7 million per night, the third night is free of charge. The deal includes breakfast for two. For email reservations-langco@banyantree. com or call (054) 369 5888
Mercure Hoi An Royal
Amanoi Introduces Vietnamese Cooking Classes
mercure.com To celebrate its grand opening (and get in customers), Mercure Hoi An Royal is offering a special introductory offer with
amanoi.com Fancy that tropical getaway with the odd cooking class thrown in as part of the fun? That’s exactly what Amanoi’s chef Danny
and his Vietnamese team have created — hands-on lessons in the kitchens of the resort. Guests at the exclusive, Ninh Thuan property learn how to create the likes of banh xeo, bo la lot, goi cuon and more. For info email amanoi.res@amanresorts.com
Sheraton Nha Trang sheratonnhatrang.com Throughout July, The Sheraton Nha Trang — one of the top resorts in the province of Khanh Hoa — are offering up to 50 percent off their rack rates. Book now to enjoy room deals starting at VND2.5 million ++ per room (excluded breakfast. Additional breakfast costs VND396,000++ per person per day). For info call (058) 388 0000 or email nhatrang.reservations@sheraton.com
Exo Gets Accolades exotravel.com EXO Travel Vietnam (formerly known as Exotissimo) has received a Travelife award for sustainability in tourism. Together with Khiri Travel, Exo Travel is the largest destination management company in Asia to receive a Travelife sustainability certification. Exo hopes other operators will follow them on the path towards sustainability.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 133
THE MOTORBIKE DIARIES PART 4: THIS IS MYANMAR
With Nemo the motorbike en route to Bangladesh by sea, Matt Dworzanczyk continues his cross-Asia journey via Myanmar DAY 62 Finally here! After three years of refused visas and fallen plans, Myanmar, after all! The far south, border town of Ranong is a mix of Cambodia and North Korea with a touch of Islam! I’m so excited! (… and I just can’t hide it..! )
DAY 64 In the footsteps of George Orwell Arrived by boat in the town of Myeik. Didn’t plan to linger but I fell in love. Throughout the journey, I’ve been writing my new and most epic screenplay. It’s the story of Dev, a young adult in a world where children never grow up, on a journey to defeat a monster threatening his lands.
And it’s a story which I’m pretty sure will one day change the world! There’s one suspiciously good café in this town that was once a home to George Orwell and really hasn’t changed much at all since the time. Writing here, I can quite literally feel Orwell’s creative spirit in the air!
DAY 65 … and Herman Melville? There are some islands nearby in a government-restricted zone and I’m told the rains are coming. So, I convince some fishermen to take me! Three hours later, I’m at open sea, in the middle of a wild storm and the boat engine breaks down. I’m soaked, laughing to myself and all I can think of is Moby Dick!
DAY 66 Thingyan! Water madness country-wide! Found a bike and rode 100km north to the small town of Palaw. Every few minutes a mob awaits me with water buckets. No chance to dry. With the heat, it’d actually be pretty refreshing… if not for the muddy yellow water.
DAY 69 “The Beach” — a true story Met a shady German guy who for US$2 agreed to part with a secret map he’d drawn up. On a beat up rental bike, I drove down along the Andaman coast to the Dawei Peninsula, to an area where I’m pretty sure I wasn’t allowed to be. “Turn when you see a football field, then on
top of the hill look for a path in the woods” — not helpful directions. Drove all day. By afternoon, roads turned into paths. By the evening, I was just a half hour trek through the jungle away. Animals I could hear but not see kept dashing out of my way and I wondered, “What would I do if I was actually greeted by a tiger?” Then finally, right in time for the sunset, the jungle cleared and there it was — a secluded, hidden away, perfectly empty, undiscovered beach. I hung a hummock (finding two trees close enough was a challenge) and I spent the night looking at the stars, listening to the sea.
DAY 71 The Pilgrimage My last hitchhiking attempt (years ago)
ended in me trekking 35km to a town where the train station was still being built. Hitchhiking? — nope, not my thing. But motivated by another thumb-traveller I met and with Nemo, my bike, sadly somewhere on the sea right now, I found myself by the main road, with a piece of cardboard in my hands, hoping for a ride up north. In minutes, I hitched a ride… on a bus. A Buddhist pilgrimage bus. Long gone are the days when Asian temples evoked feelings of more than just “Uh, another one…” But after a few hours on the bus, this place, their pilgrimage site, was to leave me speechless and mesmerized. A 10-storey tower, much like some Arabian ‘stupa’, with four just as tall — enormous! — sitting Buddha statues on
each side of the structure, looking off in all different directions. Paired with ancient chanting, surrounded by nothing but hills and wilderness as far as the eye could see. It was no less than magical. Before continuing my ‘pilgrimage’ to Yangon, I saved the GPS coordinates. I would’ve written down the name of the place if I could understand the local pronunciation. Completely unknown by the Lonely Planet and WikiTravel, and without even a single picture of the place on Google, I’ll think of this place as my little secret, much more impressive than the famous Bagan; my own Burmese discovery. For more on Matt’s films and travels, check out the Etherium Sky Production Blog at www. EtheriumSky.com/ProdBlog
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 135
THE PORTRAIT LE VAN SE AND NGUYEN THI LOI
L
e Van Se is 91 years old, and his wife Nguyen Thi Loi is 83. They have been together for 63 years. Se was Loi’s first and only love, at the age of 21. They were both born in the farming village of Tra Que, which provides locally-grown herbs and vegetables to Hoi An. Although Tra Que is part of Hoi An, for Se and Loi it is a different town — it is their town.
The First Photo I first met them in 2011. While Se was working his land, I spotted him and asked if I could take photos. Se kindly smiled and posed for me. After these photos, Se invited me to his home to have some Vietnamese tea and meet his wife. I’ll always remember the very warm welcome I received from this beautiful couple. After asking me many questions about my life, I asked in return. The story Se and Loi told was heartbreaking.
136 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
BY RÉHAHN
Photo provided by Réhahn Photography
The Wars During the Indochina War, Se was supplying the Viet Cong with food supplies when he was caught by the French army, imprisoned and then tortured for 10 months in Laos. At the time the French army were convinced that Se was part of the Viet Cong army, but once they found he was not, they released him and he returned home. Unfortunately, his bad luck did not end there. During the American War, Se was once again captured — this time by the American army, which imprisoned him in an army jail in Hoi An for six months, on grounds of (once again) providing food for the Viet Cong. Meanwhile, Loi was an officer in the women’s division of the liberation army, and was detained for four months by the American army. Se lost two younger brothers during the American War. I asked him if he had any hatred towards the French and the
Americans, and he replied that he lives in peace with the past, and in his old age has chosen to forgive.
Peaceful Retirement Se wakes up every morning at 5am to work his land and sell his vegetables to the local market. Not one day goes by without seeing this lovely man out on the fields. They also receive a pension from the government for assisting Vietnam during the war. The couple had five children, but sadly three have passed away. Se is the eldest man in the village of Tra Que and is well respected. I see Se every day, and gave them both my book when they came to visit my gallery on a very rare trip to Hoi An. This couple will always remain in my heart. Réhahn’s gallery Couleurs d’Asie is at 7 Nguyen Hue, Hoi An. See more of Réhahn’s portraits at facebook.com/Rehahn. Photography
Travel
local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools. HO TRAM SANCTUARY $$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours. REX HOTEL $$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO $$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand-Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam’s first large scale integrated resort and includes a 541-room five-star hotel, a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting space, an exclusive VIP area, as well as a variety of beach-front recreation activities. Is located next to the Greg Norman-designed golf course, The Bluffs, one of the best golf courses in Vietnam.
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — HANOI BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA) 94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while
offering a selected range of small group tours. EXO TRAVEL 66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 2150
exotravel.com
on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.
A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.
TRAVEL SENSE ASIA Suite 8, 2nd Floor, 103 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715 3977
HANDSPAN TRAVEL 78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3926 2828
M M M
handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more well-worn destinations. HG TRAVEL 47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina. Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (aa. com) and Turkish Airlines (thy.com).
kien@travelsense.asia
A homegrown travel agency providing small group journeys and tailor-made holidays to Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Myanmar and Thailand. Voted in Trip Advisor’s Top 10 of best tours in Hanoi since 2010.
TRAVEL SERVICES — HCMC BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY 70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702; 157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827 9170
buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency helps travellers select their destinations and organise their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam. EXO TRAVEL 41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotravel.com
A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. English-speaking tour guides lead the way.
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY 121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744
BACK OF THE BIKE TOURS Tel: (08) 6298 5659
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers. TERRAVERDE 12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well. VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE 169A De Tham, Q1, Tel: 01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure. com
M M M TRAVEL SERVICES — ELSEWHERE
backofthebiketours.com
Offer motorbike tours combined with the finest street food to give customers a truly immersive Vietnamese experience. BEENINASIA.COM
beeninasia.com info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast Asia. Offers you selection of best hotels and great tours. Create your own trip or we can tailor make your itinerary. TU TRAVEL 60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
Want to set up non-standard tours in the Mekong with local guides who’ve got extensive local knowledge? This might be the place to contact.
Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM 57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 137
Hanoi
Bar Stool / Coffee Cup / Top Eats / The Alchemist / The Therapist / Food Promos / Medical Buff / Book Buff
Photo by Trung Del 138 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Hanoi Essentials
ALTERNATIVE HEALTH
BUSINESS GROUPS
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE SOCIETY (HITS) THEATRE GROUP
A-ROAMING BODYWORKER
g
karen@a-roamingbodyworker.com a-roamingbodyworker.com
Provides various holistic healing modalities. Services include craniosacral therapy, deep tissue massage, prenatal massage, healing stones massage, as well as energy healing including Reiki and Jin Shin Jyutsu. Workshops are also available. HANOI HOLISTIC HEALTH GUIDE
issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth A guide to various holistic health practitioners in Hanoi. Only available online, but a great information source.
M M M BOOKSHOPS BOOKWORM BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001. It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice. Has a second shop in Tay Ho LIBRAIRIE FRANÇAISE DE HANOI FRENCH BOOKSHOP
23/67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3726 4896 TRANG TIEN BOOKSTORE VIETNAMESE & ENGLISH BOOKS
44 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2151 WEEKEND BOOKWORM CHILDREN’S & VIETNAM-THEMED BOOKS
1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322 With its main store located in Chau Long, sharing space with Hanoi Cooking Centre, the second edition in Tay Ho specialises in children’s and Vietnamese themed books, as well as selling bao cap (Subsidy Era) furniture and a range of souvenirs and gifts. Open weekends only. XUNHASABA ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 4068
M M M
AMCHAM 4th Floor, InterContinental Hanoi, 1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 2790
amchamhanoi.com
AUSCHAM 4th Floor, 100 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0909 710994
auschamvn.org
BBGV Floor 1, Hanoi Central Office Bldg 44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8681
bbgv.org
CCIFV Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
hitshanoi.com HANOI CLUB COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
HANOI OIS
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.
NETBALL CLUB
ghanoinetball@gmail.com L’ESPACE FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
M M M CLOTHING
ccifv.org
BOO SKATESHOP
EUROCHAM G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2228
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
SKATESHOP
booskateshop.com
eurochamvn.org
CONTRABAND
ICHAM Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2229
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.
icham.org
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
sbav-hanoi.org
M M M CINEMAS CINEMATHEQUE ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theatre per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films and opera from all over the world. Call to arrange membership.
M M M CLUBS & SOCIETIES
GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure. Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost. L’ATELIER 33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
GOETHE INSTITUT
METISEKO
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 2251
metiseko.com
goethe.de/hanoi
THREE TREES JEWELLERY
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8725
M M M COOKING CLASSES HANOI COOKING CENTRE COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours. HIDDEN HANOI COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912 254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.
M M M CRAFTS & FURNITURE
WOMEN’S WEAR & ACCESSORIES
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 1850
EVENT SPACE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
AIRLINES AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
Stocks women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handicrafts. This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.
AMERICAN CLUB
eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital has seen them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an
JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn
BETTERWORLD GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Fair trade or bought directly from the artisans who made them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the world as well as second-hand books, DVDs and more. MEKONG QUILTS HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS
9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3926 4831; 58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831
TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
Hanoi Essentials
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.
M M M GALLERIES
METISEKO ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
M M M CYCLING DON’S TAY HO BICYCLE RENTALS
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com GREEN BIKE
CANNONDALE & JETT STOCKIST
15 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh IBIKE SALES
34 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; 53 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem QUAN’S RENTALS BICYCLE / MOTORBIKE RENTALS
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 244941 THBC (THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE) RENTALS & SALES
29 Nhat Chieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3156
thbc.vn
M M M
DENTAL CARE AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
ART VIETNAM GALLERY GALLERY & EXHIBITION SPACE
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 5190
artvietnamgallery.com
Established in 2002, this American-run gallery has championed Vietnamese contemporary art for more than two decades. Holds regular exhibitions and artist talks. MANZI GALLERY & BAR / CAFE
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
Founded in 2012, this independent contemporary art centre holds regular exhibitions, workshops and a wide range of art events. Manzi promotes emerging artists while presenting established artists from Vietnam. The space also sells works by leading contemporary Vietnamese artists at affordable prices. NHA SAN COLLECTIVE GALLERY & ARTS PROJECTS
24 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0985 870316
nhasanstudio.org
The first experimental art space in Hanoi, the non-profit, artist-led space has given contemporary Vietnamese artists the chance to nurture their talent and experiment. Holds regular exhibitions and artist residences.
peacedentalclinic.wordpress. com
Maintains and promotes the treasures of Vietnamese cultural and artistic heritage, allowing visitors to appreciate and understand the entire history of Vietnamese fine arts.
SERENITY INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
WORK ROOM FOUR
2nd floor, 51A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 2286
DENTAL CLINIC
19 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0989 067888
serenitydentalclinic.com
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
140 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY
Packexim Building Tower 1, 23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15, An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workroomfour.com
A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new. Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes col-
162A Hoang Hoa Tham, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3847 3366 JUST.IN.M 48A Ly Thuong Kiet , Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3939 3907
ANNAM GOURMET
LAN SALON
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4487 DA LOC WINE RETAILER
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789
Daloc.vn
HANOI GOURMET DELI / WINE SHOP
6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com KITCHEN ART KITCHENWARE
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770
kitchenart.vn L'S PLACE GROCERY SHOP
3 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9911 NATURALLY VIETNAM ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS
4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com RED APRON WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943 7226; 28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337 THE OASIS ITALIAN DELI
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 WESTERN CANNED FOODS GROCERY STORE
VEGGIE’S
vnfam.vn
UNISEX HAIR & NAIL SALON
WOMEN’S HAIRDRESSER
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3733 2131
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
HAIR STREAM
GROCERIES & LIQUOR
NATIONAL ARTS MUSEUM
VIETNAM ARTS MUSEUM
DENTAL CLINIC
M M M
17 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3854
3 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0906 200434
australiandentalclinic.com
laboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
GROCERIES, FRUIT & VEG
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 4630 THE WAREHOUSE WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666; 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
M M M HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS DINH HAIR SALON HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0987 718899
TOP-END SALON
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3266 8190
M M M HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS BUMRUNGRAD INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL HANOI OFFICE OF BANGKOK HOSPITAL
136G Tran Vu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715 3717
bumrungrad.vn
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service. FRENCH HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL PRIVATE GENERAL HOSPITAL
55 Yen Ninh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3927 5568; Keangnam Office Tower, Khu B1 Pham Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 7305 8880
SHOPPING MALLS GARDEN SHOPPING CENTER
The Manor, Me Tri Street, My Dinh, Tu Liem Tel: (04) 3787 5500
INDOCHINA PLAZA
241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Giay, Hanoi, Tel: 1900 555596
LOTTE CENTER
54 Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3333 6016
lottecenter.com.vn PARKSON
Viet Tower Plaza, 198 Tay Son, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3537 8666
parkson.com.vn PICO MALL
229 Tay Son, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 6682 0400
SYRENA SHOPPING CENTER
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 7214
hongngochospital.vn
INTERNATIONAL SOS 24HOUR CLINIC MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3934 0666
Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care. VIETNAM-KOREA FRIENDSHIP CLINIC KOREAN CLINIC & HOSPITAL
12 Chu Van An, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3843 7231
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
cnr. Hang Bai and Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
trangtienplaza.vn VINCOM CITY TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 9999
VINCOM ROYAL CITY
72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: (04) 3974 3550
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
M M M INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3936 5370
insuranceinasia.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE 16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106 Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3755 7111
libertyinsurance.com.vn
REGENCY INTERNATIONAL INSURANCE 5th Floor, Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0966 857 488
M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, HANOI Hoa Lan Road, Vinhomes Riverside, Long Bien, Tel: (04) 3946 0435
bishanoi.com
A selective, independent, co-educational day school. Provides a British-style education following the National Curriculum for England, with students taking IGCSE and A Level. Pending authorization, will offer the IB programme from 2016 onwards. CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
A non-profit entity, Concordia has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year. HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3832 8140
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for students studying at elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capital. Offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF VIETNAM 6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
isvietnam.org
A not-for-profit, pre-kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small. KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0360; 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243; C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years. QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI #17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
programme from aged 3 through to aged 18. A notfor-profit entity, UNIS aims for its students to emerge as responsible stewards of our global society and natural environment.
M M M MOTORBIKE RENTAL & REPAIRS ANH DUNG MOTORBIKE RENTALS
37 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 066096 MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL MOTORBIKE RENTALS
M M M
M M M
PROPERTY RENTALS
RELOCATION AGENTS
FAIR REAL ESTATE RENTALS
6 Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6332
fair-realestate.com
GIA LONG HOUSING RENTALS
R714, Blg CT13B Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3743 0589
gialonghousing.com HANOI RENTING RENTALS
No. 809, Ct13b building, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6294 4828
hanoirenting.com
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0912 094464
LANLINH PROPERTY
PHUNG MOTORBIKE
38 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: Tel: 0933 534999
MOTORBIKE RENTALS
13 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1105
RENTALS
houseinhanoi.com
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Has a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — both inside and outside of Vietnam. JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS 6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
VIETLONG HOUSING
VIP BIKES SOCIAL ENTERPRISE
RENTALS
RENTALS & REPAIRS
vietlonghousing.com
17 Ve Ho, Xuan La, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 931390 Trains disadvantaged youth to be fully qualified, Australian-certified motorbike mechanics. Does sales, restoration, repairs and rentals.
ALLIED PICKFORDS Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
21 Alley 1/22 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5203
AGS FOUR WINDS 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8762
agsfourwinds.com
A worldwide leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally. Have the capacity to move property to and from any location.
hanoi.qsi.org
QSI International School of Hanoi is next in a long line of ‘quality schools’ established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing preschool and lower elementary age students. SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036
kinderworld.net/sis
Provides an international education for students from Primary up to University level. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC. UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS) G9 Ciputra, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
Established in 1988, 1,050 students from 60 nationalities follow the IB
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 141
Hanoi
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.
Essentials
MMM SPORTS, FITNESS & YOGA ELITE FITNESS TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6281
elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming
place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range. N SHAPE FITNESS MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE
5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn STUDIO FIVE YOGA & WELLNESS
5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04) 6263.1515
studio5.vn
VIETCLIMB
ZENITH YOGA YOGA & MEDITATION
247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
M M M
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914 143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.
SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT ADIDAS FOOTBALL FOOTBALL & SPORTS
19 Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 6273 3095 BOO SKATESHOP SKATING EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3923 1147
bosua.vn
HANOI SPORTS SHOP 146, Mai Dich, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 2218 5757
hanoisport.vn
SCORE-TECH 44, Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
SUPERMARKETS BIG C 222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay; Garden Shopping Centre, The Manor, My Dinh, Tu Liem
bigc.vn CITIMART
UMOVE TRAVEL AND OUTDOORS TRAVEL EQUIPMENT & CLOTHING
13 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3771 3305
umove.com.vn
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 2999
FIVIMART 27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
INTIMEX 22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
METRO THANG LONG Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3755 1617
metro.com.vn
Photo by Harris Spencer
142 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
BAR STOOL 88 LOUNGE
8
8 Lounge doesn’t have a cocktail menu. Instead, the drink menu features a varied list of spirits and lets you concoct a potion of your own. A testament to the lounge’s minimalism, this approach to cocktails allows the patron to take something modest and construct it into something special, something bold. The same can be said about the experience of dining or drinking at 88 Lounge. The space is simplistic yet elegant, built for learning, for networking, for enjoying live music, for unwinding and sipping a post-work glass of wine at the bar. 88 Lounge’s design suits a range of activities; not only that, it does it well. All this should come as no surprise. When three architects open a bar, it is inevitable that the outcome will be smart and sophisticated. Each floor — there are five, including a roof — serves a different purpose, from the ground level’s modern bar, complete with high-top tables and metal bar stools, to the third floor’s lower
Photos by Harris Spencer
wooden tables and plush armchairs (for dining) and the fourth floor’s even lower tables and even plusher armchairs (for cigar smoking). The second floor, ideal for food and wine pairing events, boasts a large cement table at its core, flanked by colourful oriental lanterns; from here, the sweeping view of West Lake begins to come into focus. For one of the best views of West Lake and a welcome breeze, trod your way up to the fifth floor roof terrace. Here, 88 Lounge hosts a slew of private events and tastings, though the space will soon open to everyday patrons, too.
Amazing Grapes Wine steals the show here. The expansive wine list, which never wavers above or below 88 bottles, features varietals from France to Chile, Spain to South Africa. In addition to the ever-evolving selection, 88 Lounge offers a rotating selection of reds and whites available by the glass (from VND130,000) or carafe (from VND430,000). With so much wine
on offer, not surprisingly 88 Lounge is also host to frequent wine events, which include wine and cheese pairings, wine seminars, and tastings. In addition to events, this wine bar spreads its wine love via its food and wine-pairing menu. From foie gras (VND350,000) devoured alongside a crisp Chardonnay, to the 88 Burger (VND270,000) and its Cabernet complement, to the cheese plate (VND250,000) that’s elevated by a light Pinot Noir, the straightforward dishes encourage wine drinking and exploration. 88 Lounge oozes class, but it doesn’t ooze pretention. It’s beautiful and shiny, boasts great lake views, and features a wine and liquor list fit for a king. But it’s still Hanoi. It’s still human-level, approachable, loveable Hanoi. And I think I’ll stay for another glass of Pinot, thanks very much. — Noey Neumark 88 Lounge is at 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 143
Hanoi On the Town
BARS, CLUBS & BEER CLUBS
able place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.
food menu.
ROCKSTORE
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR
EDEN HANOI
LE SOLEIL & PAOLO AND CHI DIVE BAR
LIVE MUSIC BAR
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
End of 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
facebook.com/lesoleilpaoloandchi
facebook.com/RockstoreHanoi
+84 BAR 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
OUTDOOR PARTY SPACE
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable sofa-like seating and grungy decor related to a past make up the mix at this venue put together by the people behind Barbetta.
facebook.com/edengargen
When it comes to outdoor parties, big outdoor parties, the setting at Eden makes this place difficult to beat, with well over a 1,000 revellers packing in at the weekends. Check out their Facebook page for the party list.
88 LOUNGE CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
A wine bar with a difference, this mainstay on the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit. ANGELINA CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 Top-end bar and Italian restaurant all in one. Five star prices, but has an atmosphere to match and a great cocktail selection. The kind of place you’ll order a wagyu and eat it at the bar. BACKYARD BIA HOI UPMARKET BIA HOI
15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho From the Tet Lifestyle collection, this outdoor, hideaway, garden-based bia hoi is every bit as attractive (and popular) as its café peers in the West Lake area. A Vietnamese-style food menu and regular live music make up the mix. BARBETTA
ETE BAR FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331 A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes. FATCAT BAR DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT
25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
A small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. HANOI ROCK CITY LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170
facebook.com/hrc.hanoi
Has a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production. Weekly live events feature bands and DJs both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming.
284 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0915 663993 A self-style dive bar and live music space with a distinct Gallic feel. A pleasant ambience and tasty cuisine add to the offerings at this popular, West Lake venue. MADAKE BAR & EVENT SPACE
81 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6276 6665
facebook.com/madakehanoi
With a stunning garden overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar is famed for it’s many weekday and weekend events, its ambient Asian-style décor, DJ nights and general atmosphere. A popular West Lake go-to joint.
PHUC TAN 51 Tu Gian Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0915 907785 Now located on the river in between Long Bien and Chuong Duong Bridges, this late night, DJ bar is notorious for… well, being Phuc Tan. Almost every Hanoi-based reveler has ended up here at some point. It’s just one of those places. POLITE PUB LONG BAR
LIQUOR LOUNGE
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE
With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reli-
sontinh.com
facebook.com/pages/RedRiver-Tea-Room
cama-atk.com
144 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
This bar-cum-restaurant is outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings and is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events including comedy nights and shows all the live football. Also known for its creative Vietnamese
199D Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
facebook.com/sidewalkhanoi
A bar and grill with an eclectic, DIY-style semi-outdoor setting. Regular DJ nights and live music add to the great ambience. Check out their grill fare. Tasty.
12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802 A cheap, cheerful and welcoming slither of a watering hole popular with expats and anyone looking for some good conversation. Cheap beers, oodles of Jameson’s and often open late. Oh, and check out the Danish hotdog stand out front. To die for.
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377
DIY BAR & EVENTS VENUE
HOLE IN THE WALL
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 3104 There’s only one Mao and there’s only one red lounge. This late-night bar has been going for years, and despite its Old Quarter dive status, it still packs in the drinkers.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
CZECH MICROBREWERY
SIDEWALK HANOI
SPY BAR
HOUSE OF SON TINH
CAMA ATK
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock Cafe without the stigma and the expensive prices. Nightly live music or DJing events are coupled with creative decor, a selection of Belgian Beer and a food menu. Check their Facebook page for details.
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3734 9134 Set in a colonial villa, when it comes to design, the funky but comfortable Barbetta with its roof terrace is difficult to beat. A great place for coffee, beer or even a bite to eat.
61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 01653 336087
MAO’S RED LOUNGE
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic English-style pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, pool and live football matches.
ARTSY BAR & CAFE
nearby favorites. Unpretentious, dog-friendly.
25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Located on the lakeside lane just below Xuan Dieu, this warm, quiet and friendly pub offers a selection of international and local beers, wine, cocktails and a nice view of West Lake. Serving pies and pasties from The Cart, Vietnamese food from Dieu’s next door, or delivery from
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE
24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem tadioto.com Located close to the Opera House, this alternative, arty bar is garnished in red and white on the outside, with warm brown and tones of blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging Shanghai and San Francisco, engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the latest incarnation of this well-known and well-loved space. THE NEST VIETNAMESE-STYLE BAR & CLUB
Top Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0947 890333
facebook.com/Nest. Lounge.09XuanDieu
The West Lake location suggests that this is the kind of bar that will attract expats. It does. But thanks to the Vietnamese atmosphere, there’s a nice mix of local and foreign over the three floors of lounge seating, DJ booths and dance areas. The views here are pretty eye-catching, too.
THE REPUBLIC MODERN SPORTS BAR
7A Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 010116
republic.vn
A contemporary mid-range bar and eatery showing live sport and boasting a convivial atmosphere. Has a creative comfort food menu, excellent breakfasts, daily specials and a popular second-floor outdoor terrace. THE ROOFTOP SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3946 1901
therooftop.vn
The first up-on-high bar and restaurant in the capital and still a leader in its field. With DJs spinning EDM and great views of the city, this is a must for a more Vietnamese, top-shelf experience. THE UNICORN BAR COCKTAIL BAR & LOUNGE
2A Hang Than, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0904 886266 The latest offering of wellknown champion bartender, Pham Tien Tiep, Unicorn offers up a lounge space, a small bar area and an attractive seating space out front. Now, as for the cocktails… TRACY’S PUB AND GRILL SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
A miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is also famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi. VUVUZELA MODERN BEER HALL
2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 8922
vuvuzela.com.vn
When Vuvuzela opened up, mixing the Hooters concept from the US with a beer hall, drinking food and a DJ booth, it created the start of a new scene — beer clubs. The original Vuvuzela on Tran Thanh Tong is still going strong, but it’s so popular that it’s best to book your table in advance. For a full list of Hanoi locations, check their website.
CAFES ANNAM CAFE DELI / INTERNATIONAL CAFE
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho A trendy, deli-style café connected to Annam Gourmet next door. Bright and fresh décor is complemented by shelves stocked with im-
COFFEE CUP THE CAFÉ
I
f you’re after decent coffee, blizzardstrength air-conditioning and a trendy interior that looks like the set of a television dating show, The Café may be the perfect choice for you. Overlooking busy Lac Long Quan, this stylish love-safari-inspired venue offers an extensive drinks menu and many variants of seating to spice up your otherwise dull afternoon coffee. Need a place to host one of those awkward Tinder first dates? Settle down in a romantic heart-shaped booth while sipping from the same huckleberry iceblended yoghurt smoothie (VND45,000). The love safari-theme runs wild here, with everything from animal silhouettes painted on the walls to leopard-skin stools and wall-mounted bamboo to get the primal urges a flowin’. Comfy cushions in the shoeless kontatsu love pad also make for comfortable spaces to lounge and pretend to read a book, when in reality you’re scanning profiles and swiping left on your smartphone. Unfortunately, only a modest selection of snacks are available, ranging from Belgian waffles (VND50,000), dubious looking egg sandwiches (VND50,000) and a tasty-looking dessert incorporating shaved ice with fruit (VND55,000).
Syrupy Sweet Drinks-wise, you have everything from Korean ginseng tea (VND45,000) to iceblended yoghurt smoothies (VND32,000 to VND50,000) to great tasting coffee options at your fingertips. We recommend the iced latte (VND50,000) for those stinking hot summer days. You’ll also be grateful to know that all of the juices (VND45,000 to VND50,000) come with that horrendous sugar syrup on the side, allowing you to hand it straight back to the waiter with a smile that says “why?” If you need a contingency plan to scare away the weird-smelling Tinder guy (or girl), smiling with a mouthful of tapioca pearls after sipping on a tasty chocolate pearl milk tea (VND35,000) should help do the trick. The best thing about The Café, though, is the surroundings. At times, it’s sleek and sophisticated with chic chesterfield couches and elegant glass panels worthy of the cover of Vogue Living. At the other end of the spectrum, the upper floors have enough plastic foliage and beaded curtains to make any design aficionado hurl violently into their coffee mugs.
Photos by Bao Khanh
But it’s this ironic clash between styles that makes The Café different from the rest of Hanoi’s artisan cafes, which have become a dime dozen, and even a little bit cliché. This, along with the attentive staff
and the great drinks menu make The Cafe a comfortable place to spend your time. — David Mann The Café is located at 443 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 145
TOP EATS RAY QUAN
A
rattling in the distance. The restaurant stirs and shakes, dishes quivering and voices chattering. The rice wine flows and everyone takes position, ready to clink shot glasses. The train clobbers by. “Chuc suc khoe!” Ray Quan’s entrance is about one metre from the train tracks, tucked into the jam of buildings between Le Duan and Nguyen Khuyen. The ambience is a mix of cozy and quirky, from the rustic wooden furniture to the dangling glittery masks and geometric light fixtures, to the ‘jukebox’ (a computer with YouTube always open, inviting customers to take over the tunes). When owner Bui Thi Dong Thanh, or
Te, opened Ray Quan in 2013, she had foreigners and locals on her mind; the menu features traditional Vietnamese ingredients and cooking techniques while still catering to the Western palate.
Trial by Gecko Ray Quan’s food and drink selection reflects the Vietnamese tenet that everything is medicinal. This is apparent in the assortment of species-steeped rice wines and the herbaceous dishes: all serve some remedial purpose. As such, on a recent visit, I consumed all of the rice wines and an exorbitant amount of meat, so I think I precluded a year’s worth of doctors’ visits. First, I drank to good health. I’ve
ranked the rice wines (VND100,000 to VND300,000 a bottle) on a scale of 1 to 4 geckos, because gecko is arguably the sexiest flavour of rice wine. Kumquat. Kumquat helps you sleep at night, if the rice wine isn’t enough. This one’s super tangy and makes my mouth pucker up. 3 geckos because thanks to the proliferation of kumquat in northern Vietnamese cuisine, this wine reminds me of the pho I had for breakfast, and I can’t decide how I feel about that. Gecko. “For men. For sex.” I begged to try it, and kind of enjoyed the savoury, spicy pungency of it, thanks to the reptilian infusion and the dash of ginseng. It’s my boyfriend’s favourite. Go figure. I’d give it 3 geckos, but am
Photos by Julie Vola
docking a gecko for the inherent sexism. 2 geckos. Apricot. Velvety smooth with a touch of smoke, less sweet than its other fruity counterparts (mango, pink lemon), and with a gingery richness, this one’s a winner in my book. 4 geckos.
Off the Wagon Now for the food. Ranked on a scale of 1-4 train cabooses. Smoked Goose Breast (VND120,000). This tastes like what I imagine a Christmas ham would taste like. The goose bathes in a herbal green tea marinade before entering the smoker, providing it with luscious fragrance and titillating flavour. 4 cabooses, easily.
Smoked Buffalo (VND130,000). A bit dry at first, but after some chewing I’m met with an explosion of fiery tenderness that can only be attributed to the free roaming buffalo on Dien Bien Mountain. 2 cabooses. Chicken with Spicy-Sour Sauce (VND100,000). Looks like your basic chicken stir-fry. Tastes like one of the best chicken stir-fries I’ve ever had. Furthermore, the ginger and lemongrass within offer digestive aid, and who doesn’t love that? 3 cabooses, as I would have liked a bit more chicken, less onions. Nem Rau (VND75,000). These supple cushions ooze a purple mash of creamy taro, offering a bold take on the typically bland and cabbage-filled vegetable nem. 4
cabooses: 2 for the surprise factor; 2 for the delicious factor.
A Ray of Light Overall, the rice wines scored an average of 3 geckos, and the dishes an average of 3.4 cabooses. Ray Quan’s food and drink consistently impress, thanks to variety, creativity, and all-in-all great execution. A majority of Ray Quan’s regulars are foreigners. “It’s a place where people say hello and then goodbye,” Te explains. This seems fitting for its train trackadjacent location, a proper ode to the experience of finding, loving, and leaving Hanoi. — Noey Neumark Ray Quan is at 8A Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da, Hanoi
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 147
THE ALCHEMIST PEACE IN THE URBAN JUNGLE
BY KAREN GAY
Lightning strikes over Bangkok
“I
could never live here,” I said to my friend who lives in Bangkok. I had just returned to her apartment after being out in the city’s traffic, concrete and high-rises. In town only a few days, the intensity of the large urban landscape was already affecting my psyche. By the end of my six-week stay, however, some of the edge had worn off. What had changed?
Kinship I connected with a community of likeminded people. According to research, group clustering does not change with the scope of a city. What this means is that a person can create social networks no matter the size of the city. Get out and go to places and events that you love, you’re bound to make friends. Studies indicate that having friends in your life increases your sense of belonging and happiness.
Let the Sun Shine I made some time to sit in the sunlight every day. In last month’s issue, I wrote about the importance of getting adequate
148 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
sunlight. City living usually involves spending a lot of time indoors. Seek out the sun and bask in its nurturing energy to get your necessary dose of vitamin D, thus elevating the levels of your happy hormone, serotonin.
— Shop at the local farmers’ market — Raise a fruit, herb or vegetable plant in your home or office — Decorate your walls and computers with nature photos and screen savers
The Great Outdoors
City life is full of stimuli, and although we may not realise it, the constant influx of information to our senses results in stress to the body, mind and spirit. Take the time to disengage from the external world. Create a few moments of sacred time each day to instill a sense of inner peace that is both calming and restorative. It’s only upon concluding this article and taking another look at my outdoor surroundings — observing the rooftop park that I’m sitting in — that I realise I’m back in Bangkok. I’m at peace with the touch of the breeze, the sound of the birds and the trickle of the pool. The traffic din is barely noticeable in my reverie. Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker, is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi. For information on the types of services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.com
Not only did I bask in the sun, I took my work outside and benefited from the improved levels of concentration that comes with spending time outdoors. I also walked and sought out green space, thereby naturally reducing my stress levels.
Get Creative With the hustle and bustle of urban living, it can sometimes be a while between visits to natural settings. The actions I took above allowed me to relax into my big city retreat and appreciate Nature’s offerings nonetheless. Some other ways to maintain a connection to Nature and reap the positive psychological benefits are to: — Exercise outdoors — Commute on foot or by bicycle
Take a Timeout
Hanoi On the Town
ported gourmet goods and cafeteria-style furniture. An eye-catching temptation for weary shoppers. CIAO CAFÉ RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 1494 A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise offers a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. They also do coffee. COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
This American-style chain cafe is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Hanoi. CONG CAPHE LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh; 27 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem; 15 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh; 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
congcaphe.com
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest café chains in town. D’ALICE BOUTIQUE CAFE
89 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Put together coffee and cake and you get one of those timeless combinations. And if you really want to binge on the cake-end, then check out d’Alice and its quirky interior. Perfect for that more modern combination of sweet tooth and iThingy. DUY TRI VIETNAMESE CAFÉ
43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho The longest-running café in the capital, this 1936-established, three-floored space is simplicity at its finest. Even the coffee here sticks to its roots — it’s made using the same blend of Arabica and Robusta cooked up by its founders. Unpretentious, endearing and old-fashioned.
HANOI COOKING CENTRE CAFÉ COURTYARD CAFE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Relax in a leafy courtyard, air-con dining room or under a covered roof terrace with a Vietnamese ca phe, Italian coffee, beer, wine or freshly squeezed juice. Order from a seasonally changing menu or try one of the allday breakfast specials for VND110,000, including juice and coffee or tea. HANOI HOUSE HIDEAWAY CAFE
2nd Floor, 47A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Set in a colonial-era building with equally colonialera styled furnishings, this hidden away family house café is one of those gems synonymous with Hanoi. Quiet, intimate and simple, the staff will treat you like you’re a guest in their home. HIGHLANDS COFFEE CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228; Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
With numerous locations around town, what originally started as a fourth-floor joint overlooking the lake has become one of the most popular, home-grown cafes in Vietnam. JOMA COFFEE/BAKERY
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem; 22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
Popular café with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there, too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations. KINH DO PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0216 One of the longest-running cafes in town, this hole-inthe-wall, no frills café-cumrestaurant home-makes its patisseries and is renowned for its excellent yoghurt. MANZI ARTSPACE ARTS CAFÉ & GALLERY
14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary café and events space that screams out the
words ‘modern art’. Housed in a converted colonial-era villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows make up the mix here. Great cuisine, too. MOC CAFE
A cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and here you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The ood is fresh and internationally inspired, and has an excellent top-floor terrace.
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. (04) 3825 6334 Set in a slightly run down colonial villa, the faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains. PUKU INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745 This spacious spot on Food Street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the no-smoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, especially late at night. SAINT HONORE CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355 This cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked bakery aroma hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.
YOLO FUNKY LIVE MUSIC CAFE
32C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/YoloCoffeeShops Boasting an abundance of communal seating, funky decor and a full roster of regular live music performances, this rollicking café-slash-bar has quickly earned a place in the hearts of Hanoi’s young and trendy. Fun, unpretentious and unashamedly quirky, it’s endearing use of recycled furniture — antiques and colourful artwork create a vibrant atmosphere — make for a popular hangout. Open 24 hours. ZENITH VEGETARIAN CAFE VEGETARIAN / VEGAN
247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: 0904 356561
zenithyogavietnam.com
A vegetarian and vegan cafe respecting the philosophy of yoga — simple living, mindful thinking. Using 100 percent natural ingredients, the cuisine has no additional additives or MSG and is cooked using the minimal amount of oil. The stress is instead on eating whole food in its natural state.
M M M EAT AL FRESCO’S
Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations. THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB CAFÉ / CONTEMPORARY EATERY
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2117
facebook.com/thehanoisocialclub
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn CAFÉ 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342 Long-running, slightly incongruous hole-in-the-wall café and restaurant that has served up up a Western menu since the late 1990s. Check out their and their excellent breakfasts, all scoffed down in a traditional, Vietnamese environment. COUSINS CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3 Quang Ba, Tay Ho, Tel: 01238 670098
facebook.com/cousins.hanoi
A contemporary, Frenchinfluenced restaurant selling international cuisine at reasonable prices in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Blackboards, whitewashed, bare-brick walls, period tiles, a well-chosen wine list and an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake make up the formula. DA PAOLO CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317 This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
DALUVA FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5831
daluva.com
TET DÉCOR CAFÉ ART CAFÉ & ESPRESSO BAR
ASAHI SUSHI
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
A Brazilian churrascaria offering all-you-can-eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas.
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy, Middle-Eastern twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. DON’S TAY HO CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN
16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
This lake-facing venue with its top floor Oyster Bar is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 149
THE THERAPIST SPREADING YOUR WINGS
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental health counsellor, talks about dealing with the fear of flying Dear Douglas, I am a 43-year-old expat living in Ho Chi Minh City. I am wondering if you can help me with a problem that I started to have about two years ago and which is now affecting my life in a big way. I have travelled a lot in my life and never had any problem with flying from place to place. But for some reason now I am becoming afraid to fly. I am leaving Vietnam and moving to another posting with my partner. I am disappointed to leave to start again in a place I don’t feel good about. I have begun to dread getting on that plane. All I can think about is that I need to get out of the plane and I won’t be able to… for 10 hours. My anxiety goes up, even when I think those thoughts. I am afraid that I cannot fly, but I know it is a problem in my head because I have flown so many times before. Can you help me? — Afraid to Fly Dear Afraid to Fly, I will answer the letter to share my thoughts with others who might also find flying or some other activity creating fear for them. I think that therapy can help you to understand how to regulate your feelings, confront your fear and to understand what might be going on for you that results in this intense fear that you have not had in the past. The first thing is to understand the relationship between thoughts and feelings. When we feel emotions with low levels of intensity (almost everyone is a little
150 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
anxious when they get on an airplane), our thoughts and feelings stay separate. We can use reason to regulate the fear by understanding that the risks are minimal. When the intensity of our anxiety increases we start to produce ‘anxious thoughts’. These are thoughts that are fueled by emotion and change the way we see things, and these thoughts and feelings feed off of one another which only intensify the feeling. Our perspective becomes narrower and narrower… like you’re saying “all I can think about is that I need to get out of the plane and won’t be able to for 10 hours.” It becomes an obsessive thought that keeps producing the emotion, anxiety, which in turn leads to repeating the same thought at a higher pitch. Your fear is likely less to do with the plane and getting off — why would you need to? — and more likely feeling like you are afraid that you will have an anxiety attack, where this pattern repeats on the plane when you don’t know how to prevent or stop it. Anxiety is considered a fear without a source. It is unlike phobias, which are fears of specific things… spiders, heights and so on. Anxiety creates an experience that becomes the fear of experiencing the fear. Anyone who has ever had an anxiety attack or panic attack knows it is a painful experience, not one that they would want to repeat. It is the fear of having that experience that produces more anxiety. Beneath it is an important aspect of life that we all deal with but rarely understand
— control, or the influence of will. Many people come to believe that they can influence life more than they really can. Often those people are high achievers who learn mastery of some kind. With effort, applying themselves in concentrated ways they feel in ‘control’ of themselves and the circumstances around them. They believe and rely on their ability to stay in control. When they feel ‘out of control’, the result is anxiety which increases the effort to regain the sense of control they lost. Inevitably, they will come to a point where circumstances are beyond the limits of their control and they will not be able to restore that control through the usual channels — effort, will, mastery. So anxiety increases, producing the cycle I wrote about above. We all have the capacity to understand that we can gain control of our emotional intensity by letting go of our “need for control”. Letting go, or acceptance, is counter-intuitive for those who rely on the use of their will. It, too, produces a fear. What will happen if I am not in control? There is a time in life when we can no longer live with the myth that we can or need to be in control. When we face the fear that is produced and with the help of tools, support and an important ingredient, courage, we can overcome it and find a freer and less limited existence. Talk to a psychotherapist who can help you work through this. I wish you relaxed flights for all your days. — Douglas
Hanoi On the Town
again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines. HALIA HANOI SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
29 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3946 0121
thehalia.com Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes Excellent range of imported oysters, great breakfasts and an extensive wine list. EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
A multi-floored venue with a bar area and a refined dining space. The menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer. Has an extensive wine list.
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
11 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 7280; 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
With venues in Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of El Gaucho is quality top grade meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay — the USDA cuts are to die for — but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting, an extensive wine list and slick service. There’s a reason El Gaucho is so successful — everything’s being taken care of. FOODSHOP 45 INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3716 2959
foodshop45.com
Lakeside location and low bamboo seating, this eatery is one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. FRENCH GRILL TOP-END GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy restaurant offers guests a service experience with crafted food difficult to find in the capital. GREEN TANGERINE FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green cast-iron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back
HIGHWAY 4 VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 0639; 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3771 6372 The home of Son Tinh liquor, Highway 4 is also known for its communal dining and ethnic food menu taking in dishes from around the regions of northern Vietnam. Try out their catfish spring rolls. Phenomenal! INDIA PALACE NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay Ho, this time on the strip between Don’s and The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a pleasant environment from the team behind Tandoor. J.A.F.A. INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400 One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered. JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
An all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions, with of course, a focus on steak. Has three floors all with different vibes, the kind of slick service you’d expect from the Al Fresco’s Group and an extensive wine list.
3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
Recently refurbished, the Australian-influenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. Popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large and the wine is mainly New World. KOTO ON VAN MIEU RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: (04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
The restaurant arm of Koto, an F&B training school for disadvantaged youth. Authentic Asian and European cuisine is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof. KY Y JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386 Not to be mistake for a sushi joint, this wonderful restaurant is your typical, Japanese working person’s rice eatery. Has a bar area downstairs and booth-like seating on the upper floors. LA BADIANE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 4509
labadiane-hanoi.com
On entering La Badiane, you are instantly caught by the multitude aromas coming from the open front kitchen. Then, surrounded by leaf plants, and predominantly white walls, the customer is struck by this venue’s calm and elegance. Although the dining experience at la Badiane is about the food, great attention is also paid to the ambience so you can enjoy every aspect of your meal. Voted one of Miele Guide’s Top 500 Restaurants in Asia. LA BICICLETA BARCELONA-STYLE BISTRO
44 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Spanish Tapas fare is available elsewhere, but this is the only eatery where it is authentic and from Barcelona. Great selection of sandwiches, tapas and paella as well as enormous Spanishstyle gin and tonics, Tinto de Verano, carajillos and sangria. Also known for its moreish, Catalanstyle desserts. Closed Mondays. LA SALSA IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
JASPA’S INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
5 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3995 0950
lasalsa-hanoi.com
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed café and bar
with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, Europeanstyle coffee and first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. LA VERTICALE CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Situated in an art-deco villa, this establishment is run by the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine. LE BEAULIEU CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6919 The Metropole’s signature restaurant serving up both classic and contemporary French fare. Buffet options mix with an a la carte menu and an ambience that could be straight out of Paris. LUNA D’AUTUNNO CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823 7338
lunadautunno.vn
This old-favourite Italian uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND100,000 to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses. Has regular live music and a great Italian wine list. MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese fare together with dim sum, May Man boasts extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus. Reservations recommended. MEDITERRANEO PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 6288 This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish. Boasts an extensive wine list and a traditional wood fire oven.
FOOD PROMOS HANOI
Obsessed by salmon — dishes from the Salmon Matsuri festival at Fortuna Hotel
Discounts @ O’Learys olearys.vn The American-Irish themed restaurant and sports bar O’Learys is throwing a pretty grand promotion from Jul. 1 through to Jul. 6. Throughout the week there will be a 20 percent discount off all menu items. If two families or more come in to eat together, this rises to 30 percent. Draught beer has also been slashed — 50 percent off from Monday to Thursday. In addition, live music on Thursday and Friday will be accompanied by a Svedka vodka promotion (Thursday, 8.30pm to 10.30pm) and 50 percent off a bottle of wine (Friday, 7.30pm to 9.30pm). O’Learys is at 38 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Freelancer Promotion @ Manzi facebook.com/manzihanoi Become a Manzian for a day for just VND90,000 and get a working table, freeflow tea and coffee all day and free WiFi. You can also pop in and out whenever you want. The promotion runs daily from 7.30am to 5pm — just ask Manzi’s staff prior to ordering your first drink.
152 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
Westlake Sunday Brunch @ InterCon Westlake intercontinental.com/hanoi Hit up the InterCon for an epicurean feast every Sunday at Café du Lac. With a Sunday Brunch serving up dishes ranging from classic Vietnamese to contemporary international, nine live cooking stations and six types of cuisine are there to cater for your gluttonous needs. Prices are good, too — VND1.11 million net per adult (excluding beverage) or VND1.7 million net per adult (including a freeflow of wine, beer, soft drinks and Martini).
Mooncakes @ JW Marriott marriott.com Yes, you guessed it, moon cake season is here and this year, JW Marriott’s quite excellent Chinese restaurant, Crystal Jade Palace, is getting in early. Perfect for anyone making business gifts during Tet Trung Thu. Order before Jul. 31 and get the Early Bird 20 percent discount on 50 boxes or more. Alternatively, take advantage of the
Buck Discount that gives you 10 percent off 50 boxes and above, 15 percent off 100 boxes and above, and so on… With six different types of mooncakes available, a box of four costs VND585,000++ while the smaller mooncakes in boxes of eight go for VND648,000++. For info call 0904 897526 or (04) 3833 5588
Salmon Matsuri @ Fortuna Hanoi fortuna.vn In celebration of Japanese’s most funfilled summer festival, the Emperor Restaurant at Fortuna Hanoi will re-enact the Salmon Festival — Salmon Matsuri. For five Saturday nights once a fortnight — starting Jul. 4 and ending Aug. 29, the restaurant will take guests on an unlimited dinner buffet experience filled with a variety of salmon dishes and Japanese performances. Included in the buffet are fresh salmon tartar salad, salmon toro nigri, salmon kim chi pasta, salmon and tofu hambagu and much more. And all at VND420,000++ (adults) or VND210,000++ (children). For reservations call (04) 3831 3333 ext. 6160 or 6461
Hanoi On the Town
MING PALACE PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare. MOOSE AND ROO CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT
42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:(04) 3200 1289 Contemporary Australian and Canadian comfort food in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area. Best known for their Scotch egg, poutine and burgers. Clever changing imagery on the walls. MOOSE AND ROO SMOKEHOUSE AMERICAN GRILL
The American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3939 2470
mooseandroo.com
There’s a reason for Smokehouse’s popularity — the excellent, on-site smoked meats together with all the typical, American-style sides. Set in the American Club, dining is both indoors and out, and comes with the best bourbon selection in town. NAMASTE HANOI PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
The well-loved Namaste specialises in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout. Hosted by the gregarious Gopi, a meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. NAN N KABAB 49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 0922 087799 Specialising in Pakistani cuisine and of course nan bread and kebabs, this semi-outdoor, bamboo tabled, laid back eatery also sells fare from Afganistan and India. In a sentence? Curry, but not as you know it.
NINETEEN 11 INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
SAINT HONORE
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3933 4801
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
Named after the completion date of the Hanoi Opera House, this upscale yet casual restaurant maintains an ambience of elegance, luxury and mystery. The cuisine mixes international fare with twists on Vietnamese cuisine and comes complete with a formidable wine list and an inhouse sommelier.
This bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door. The downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small nonsmoking dining space on the other. The upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple French and international fare is served at meal times.
nineteen11.com.vn
OLD HANOI GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 8337
hanoixua.vn/en
Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake. But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, all in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks a standout. PANE E VINO PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
facebook.com/panevinoHN
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner. POTS ‘N PANS
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3933 2355
sainthonore.com.vn
THE CART SANDWICH SHOP / CAFÉ
potsnpans.vn
Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi. PRESS CLUB CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House. Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere
STREETSIDE BANH MI
25 Hang Ca, Hoan Kiem BIT TET NGON SO 5 VIETNAMESE BEEFSTEAK
20A Hoe Nhai, Ba Dinh BUN BO NAM BO BUN BO NAM BO
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem BUN CHA DAC KIM BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem; 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem KCC (KIEN CAN COOK)
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
COM RANG DUA BO
Small cozy café and sandwich bar hidden away in Nghi Tam Village. Serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.
MIEN TRON HANH
thecartfood.com
THE KAFE
57 Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da
MIXED GLASS NOODLES
7B Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem MY VAN THAN WONTON NOODLES
54 Hang Chieu, Hoan Kiem PHO BO CU CHIEU PHO BO
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE
48 Hang Dong, Hoan Kiem
thekafe.vn
PHO CUON HUNG BEN
18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 6245 Spacious, casual, energetic and beautifully designed, The KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy the modern urban diner. Preparing fresh food and drinks that show respect to natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe, this café-cum-restaurant is a popular choice for Hanoi’s metrosexual community.
PHO CUON
26 Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh PHO GA BA LAM PHO GA
7 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem PHO GA HANG DIEU PHO GA
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
BANH MI 25
WRAP & ROLL 5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with two restaurants in Hanoi — the second in Royal City.
M M M STREETFOOD
1 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem PHO GIA TRUYEN BAT DAN PHO BO
49 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem PHO LY QUOC SU PHO BO
10 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem PHO THIN LO DUC SAUTEED BEEF PHO
13 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung PHO TRON MIXED PHO
18 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
5 Phu Doan, Hoan Kiem; 47 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 2 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem; 6 Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem
BANH CUON HANG GA
PHO TU LUN
3 CHI EM PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO / COM
BANH CUON
PHO BO
14 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
BANH DA TRON
XOI HANG HOM
BANH DA TRON
6 Ngo 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
STICKY RICE
44 Hang Hom, Hoan Kiem
MEDICAL BUFF THE ALPHABET SOUP OF HEPATITIS
W
orld Hepatitis Day is on Jul. 28. Hepatitis B is a concern in Vietnam, with a least 5 percent of the population infected. Most people have heard of Hepatitis A and B, but not everyone knows that there is also Hepatitis C, D and E. While A and B can be prevented by vaccination, the other three cannot.
Hepatitis A Hepatitis A is usually spread when the virus is taken in by mouth from contact with objects, food or drinks contaminated by the feces of an infected person. A person can get Hepatitis A through: — Person to person contact. When an infected person does not wash his or her hands properly after going to the bathroom and touches other objects or food. — Contaminated food or water. Hepatitis A can be spread by eating or drinking food or water contaminated with the virus. Poor sanitary conditions or poor personal hygiene exacerbate the spread. Vaccine: Available
Hepatitis B There are two major modes of transmission of Hepatitis B virus (HBV): — Transmission through activities that involve puncturing the skin (e.g. injection drug use that involves sharing needles). — Mucosal contact with infectious blood or body fluids (e.g., semen, saliva), including sex with an infected partner or birth to an infected mother. In Vietnam, between 5 and 10 percent of the population are ‘carriers’ of the disease.
154 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
For nearly all Vietnamese affected, it is mucosal contact (saliva) that is the mode of transmission, occurring at an early age or at birth from an infected mother. There are usually no symptoms when the disease is acquired before puberty, but nearly all then become chronic carriers. In distinction, Hepatitis B is acquired principally in the ‘developed’ countries as an STD resulting in severe symptoms initially but often with total immunity developed upon recovery. Chronic infection may have significant consequences for the individual (cirrhosis, liver failure, liver cancer). There are 350 million persons infected worldwide. An estimated 620,000 persons worldwide die from HBV-chronic related liver disease each year. Vaccine: Available
Hepatitis C Perhaps the most ‘talked about’ hepatitis in the West is Hepatitis C. About 15 to 20 percent of acute infection resolves spontaneously, and the remainder go on to be chronic carriers of the disease, with consequences ranging from mild to very severe. Current or former injection drug users are known to be at increased risk of infection. So are recipients of blood transfusions or organ transplants before July 1992, when better testing of blood donors became available. Vaccine: Unavailable
Hepatitis D Also known as ‘delta hepatitis’. This is a
BY DR. BRIAN MCNAULL
serious liver disease caused by infection with the Hepatitis D virus (HDV), which is structurally unrelated to the Hepatitis A, B, or C viruses. Hepatitis D, which can be acute or chronic, is uncommon in most of the world. HDV is an incomplete virus that requires the helper function of HBV to replicate and only occurs among people who are infected with the Hepatitis B virus (HBV). Vaccine: Unavailable (but HDV is preventable in persons who are not already HBV-infected, through Hepatitis B vaccination)
Hepatitis E Hepatitis E is most common in developing countries with inadequate environmental sanitation. Hepatitis E epidemics have been reported in Asia, the Middle East, Africa and Central America. Some epidemics of Hepatitis E have involved tens of thousands of people affected over a short period of time. People living in refugee camps or overcrowded temporary housing after natural disasters can be at particular risk. The Hepatitis E virus is usually spread by the fecal-oral route. The most common source of infection is fecally-contaminated drinking water. Vaccine: Unavailable Dr. Brian McNaull is Medical Director at Family Medical Practice, which is located in Vietnam’s major cities. For information or assistance call (04) 3843 0748 (Hanoi), (08) 3822 7848 (Ho Chi Minh City) or (0511) 3582 699 (Danang). Alternatively, click on vietnammedicalpractice.com
BOOK BUFF REMEMBER WATERLOO!
This month Truong at Bookworm dedicates his column to work — both artistic and literary — on Napoleon
A
regular Bookworm visitor has insisted that we dedicate a Word column to his hero, Napoleon, particularly because he has been lamenting Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo — 200 years earlier on Jun. 15. Our visitor’s obsession started when he was young. He fell in love with Jacques-Louis David’s portrait of Napoleon Crossing the Alps and became a fervent Bonaparte-phile. So when he found a collection of David’s works, Empire to Exile, in our art section, a beautifully illustrated book focusing on a selection of later paintings and drawings by the artist, he was beside himself. Napoleon was a grand master of spin and David was his most illustrious image making maestro. Yet spin could not stop the self-proclaimed Emperor’s defeat on the battlefield in present day Belgium by the Army of the Seventh Coalition led by Generals Blucher and Wellington. Neither could it allay his banishment to the remote St Helena in the South Atlantic. And nor could it prevent David fleeing from Paris for a life of exile in Brussels when France restored the Bourbon kings. If you love art in the style of the Flemish masters, then you’ll really appreciate the exquisite plates in the book.
Napoleon’s Rise to Power Our visitor loaned us a recent, thick and detailed book by a leading French historian of the Revolutionary and Napoleonic eras, Patrice Gueniffey. This epic biography, Bonaparte: 1769-1802, traces Napoleon from his obscure boyhood on Corsica, through his surly but determined career as a young officer in the French revolutionary army, and outlines his meteoric rise through the ranks during the Italian and Egyptian campaigns. It ends with his proclamation as Consul for Life in Paris. We see Napoleon as the wily politician
and military genius, a man besotted with Josephine, at continual loggerheads with his own family, but able to engage and dominate his political elders. All of this is set against a backdrop of violent upheavals and rivalries throughout Europe and the Americas that allowed Napoleon to cunningly plan a strategy for French domination. The author will elaborate upon visions and realities of domination in his next volume in which we see why Napoleon’s contemporary critic, Madame de Stael, describe him as the man who “made the rest of the human race anonymous”.
The Non-French Perspective For many Napoleonic followers it’s a relief to come across a biography written from a French perspective. However, for Napoleonic fans who may get overwhelmed by Geuniffey’s wealth of detail and facts, then another recently released biography may suit them instead. Australian Francophile, Andrew Roberts — who also had an adolescent crush on Napoleon — has a shorter, though similarly well-researched tome that praises the man but takes pains to present him warts and all. Roberts describes Napoleon as “the Enlightenment on horseback” because he bestowed law and liberty on all he conquered with his reasoned and harmonious body of laws, the Code Napoleon. Although Napoleon used authoritarian means (often at the point of a bayonet) to achieve liberal ends, Roberts believes that the replacement of political and legal chaos throughout much of Europe with uniformity and rationalism allows us to appreciate Napoleon as a benign and civilizing entity whose legacy is still felt around the world. Roberts indulges his readers with the necessary “whiffs of grapeshot”, turbulent battles and massacres, and explains that a lot of Napoleon’s success as a General
was because he paid his soldiers hard cash, always on time. But history is all about luck, and Napoleon had more than his fair share of that in his escapades and conquests — except when he finally met his downfall at Waterloo.
Faction Not everyone appreciates cold fact, nonfiction. So for those who want a racy Napoleonic read, then it’s hard to go past the re-released Desiree by Annemarie Selinko, a story about the real life of Eugenie Desiree Clary who, at 14, was Napoleon’s first love and was briefly engaged to him. She married one of his generals, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, and became Queen Desideria of Sweden. The Swedish royal line was in danger of extinction and the Swedes invited Bernadotte to become the adopted son of their senile king, mainly because, they reasoned, Napoleon was bound to conquer them someday soon and they’d prefer to have someone they could trust as their king rather than a nepotistic member of the Bonaparte family. Thus he became King Charles XIV John. His lineage continues to this day. The tale, told in the first person in diary format, follows the fortunes of the Bonaparte family from rags to riches as they grabbed for power and finally lost it. Desiree is an eccentric, headstrong woman who never overcomes her infatuation with Napoleon. After she becomes Queen of Sweden she scandalously abandons her husband and son for 12 years and returns to Paris until after Napoleon’s final defeat. Lovers of historical romance will be swept off their feet by the lush and detailed scope of it all, and many will become Napoleon camp followers and may, like our Bookworm friend, hang a print of Napoleon Crossing the Alps on their bedroom wall. For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 155
hieu
hieu
Nha tC
NN hat C
a gB an a gB an Qu
Qu
N
NG QU A
NG QU A
LAC L O
LAC L O
Ban Nha t
B en
B en
Nha t Ba
n
Ve H o
Ve H o
ON GQ U ON AN GQ UA N CL
CL
LA
LA
hP huc
Vin
hP huc Vin
NG BUOI OI UONG BU
UODinh Hoan uyen NgD
O
O
VAN C A
LA LA TH TH AN AN H H
Ba o
I
V an
V an
Giang Giang Vo Vo Lake Lake
Ngguy uyenNCguy Caonn g Hoan oonngenHooan
La ThhaanLa Than h h
gH a
ng ng Chua LaChua La
LIEU G IA
I
LIEU G IA
ng ng Tho y Tho u mH a h P
agnh Cong TThhanh CThonng
gH a
Huy
ucan Phuc Vaann PhhuV
Ngoc Khanh Ngoc Khanh Bus Station Bus Station
Nguyen Van Ngoc
KIM MKAIM MA
Ba o
ng
ng
Linh L a
Linh L a
Thuy Le Thuy Le Lake Lake
m P ha
E
VAN C A
Doc Ngu
Doc Ngu
Hoan en Dinnhh Hoa Nguyyen
Phung Chi Kien
ien ng CChhi KKie Phuung
D
DA O DA O TAN TAN
Lan
156 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
WINTER CLOTHINGS Hang Da D4
CAU CAU GIAY GIAY
Doi CaannDoi Can
Lan
LIQUORS Nha Tho D4
Thuy Le Thuy Le Park Park
Phan Phan K e Bi K e Bi nh nh
Nguyeenn Van Nggoc oc
WEDDING SERVICES Hang Than C4
Kim MaKiTTh mhuo uMonagThuong
YEN NGU CHI TH ANH YEN CHI THA NH
LACQUERS Can Go D4, D5
Ven Ho Ven Ho
Doi CaannDoi Can
N GU
TOYS Luong Van Can D4
Quan Hoa
FLOWERS Quang An Market A3
D
Quaann Hooaa
SWEETS Hang Buom D4
N uy guy en e Kh n Kh a an h T nh T oa oa n n
NG BUO NG I BUO I
FASHION STORES Hang Dao D4
Ng
DUO
STATIONERY Hang Can D4
HO HO AN AN GH GH OA OA TH TH AM AM
aong Quan Dong QDuan
DUO
EVERYTHING Dong Xuan Market C4
Th u Kh y Kh ue ue
Doi Nhaan Dnoi Nhan
an Ho a an Ho a
SPORTSWEAR Hang Dau D5
CAU GIAY
Qu
CRAFTS Hang Trong D4
C
hi
HOANHGOQAUNOGCQVUIOETC VIET
Qu
SILVERS Hang Bac D4
gT
Th uy
Q Du uang on g Q Ham ua ng Ha m
COOKING INGREDIENTS Tay Ho Weekend Market A2
Vo n
Ngoc Khanh
SILKS Hang Gai D4
Th i
Ngoocc Khaannh
COMPUTERS Ly Nam De D4
Vo ng
Sai
SECONDHAND SHOES Nguyen Khanh Toan D1
Trich Trich Sai Sai
Sai
COBBERS Hang Dong D4
B
h Tric
PLANTS Hoang Hoa Tham C1, C2
TU LIEM
h Tric
CERAMICS Hang Khoai C4
A
ng Nguyen Ho
MOBILE PHONES Dang Dung C4
N yen guyen Hoan Hoan g To g To n n
onngg Nguyen HHo
BEDDINGS Hang Dieu D4
Ng u
La
MECHANICS Hang Chao D3
2
La
BAMBOO Hang Vai D4
C4 D1 E5 D4, E4 C3, C4 E5 D1 C4 C5, D5 C4 C1 D4 C1, D1 D4, E4 C3 B2 A2 E4 D3 B4 B4 D3 D4 C4 A2 E1, E2 C3 D4, E4 D4 C2, C3 A2 D3, E3 D5 D4 E4 E4, E5 D2 E5 D5 D4, D3 C4, D5 E4 C3 D4 E5 B1, C2 D3 C4 B3 D2 C2 D3 D2 A1 C2, C3 D5 B1 D3, D2 A3 A1 C4 B3, C4 E4
an Xu
E4 B4 B3 D3 C4 A3 D4 E4 D5, E5 E5 D5 D4 A2, B2 D3 D4, D3 D2 D3 E5 D1 D5, D4 C4 E1 D3 D5 E5 C4 C4 D4 E4 C4 C3 B2 E5 D3 D1 D4, D3 D2 D5 D4 D5, D4 D3 A5 D3 D3, D2 C1 C4, D4 D1, C1 D1 D4 C4 D5, D4 D3 D3, D2 D4, E4, E5 E4 D5 D4 D4 E4, E5 D5 D4 C4 D4 D4 C4 D4 D4 C4, D5 D4 D4 D4 D4 D4 C4 C4, D4 D4 D5 D4 D4 C4 D5 D5
Pham Hong Thai Pham Huy Thong Pham Su Manh Phan Boi Chau Phan Dinh Phung Phan Huy Chu Phan Ke Binh Pho Duc Chinh Phuc Tan Phuc Xa Phung Chi Kien Phung Hung Quan Hoa Quan Su Quan Thanh Quang An Quang Ba Quang Trung Quoc Tu Giam So 1 So 9 Son Tay Ta Hien Tan Ap Tay Ho Thanh Cong Thanh Nien Tho Nhuom Thuoc Bac Thuy Khue To Ngoc Van Ton Duc Thang Tong Dan Tong Duy Tan Tran Binh Trong Tran Hung Dao Tran Huy Lieu Tran Khanh Du Tran Nguyen Han Tran Phu Tran Quang Khai Tran Quoc Toan Tran Vu Trang Thi Trang Tien Trich Sai Trinh Hoai Duc Truc Bach Tu Hoa Cong Chua Van Bao Van Cao Van Mieu Van Phuc Ve Ho Ven Ho Vong Ha Vong Thi Vu Thanh Xuan Dieu Xuan La Yen Ninh Yen Phu Yet Kieu
an Xu
19 - 12 An Duong An Thanh 1 An Trach An Xa Au Co Au Trieu Ba Trieu Bach Dang Bach Dang Bao Linh Bat Su Ben Nhat Ban Bich Cau Cao Ba Quat Cao Nam Cat Linh Cau Dat Cau Giay Cau Go Chau Long Chua Lang Chua Mot Cot Chuong Duong Do Co Tam Co Xa Cua Bac Cua Nam Da Tuong Dang Dung Dang Tat Dang Thai Mai Dang Thai Than Dang Tran Con Dao Tan Dien Bien Phu Dinh Cong Dinh Le Dinh Liet Dinh Tien Hoang Doan Thi Diem Doc Lan Doc Lap Doi Can Dong Quan Dong Xuan Duong Buoi Duong Quan Ham Duong Thanh Gam Cau Gia Ngu Giang Van Minh GianG Vo Hai Ba Trung Ham Long Ham Tu Quan Hang Can Hang Bac Hang Bai Hang Be Hang Bong Hang Bun Hang Buom Hang Chieu Hang Cot Hang Da Hang Dao Hang Dau Hang Dieu Hang Dong Hang Duong Hang Ga Hang Gai Hang Khoai Hang Luoc Hang Ma Hang Nam Hang Ngang Hang Non Hang Than Hang Thung Hang Tre
D4 D4 D5 D3, E2 E4 E3 D3 C1, C2, C3 C1 C3 C4 C3 D3 D2, D1 D1 E3, E2, E1, D1 A1, B1 E2 D4, E4 D3 D5 D5 D5 D4 E5 D2 D1 D5 D4 D4 D4 E4, E5 D3 D5 D4 B3 C4 D4 E4 C3, D3 D2 B5 C4 C3 D1, E1 D2 C1 A1 E1 C4 D1 D5 D4, D3 D4, D3 D4 C5 D1 D4 D4 A1 D2 A3 D3
Du on g
Hanoi Map
1 Hang Trong Hang Vai Hang Voi Hao Nam Hoa Lo Hoa Nam Hoang Dieu Hoang Hoa Tham Hoang Quoc Viet Hoang Van Thu Hoe Nhai Hung Vuong Khuc Hao Kim Ma Kim Ma Thuong La Thanh Lac Long Quan Lang Ha Le Duan Le Hong Phong Le Lai Le Phung Hieu Le Thach Le Thai To Le Thanh Tong Lieu Giai Linh Lang Lo Su Luong Van Can Ly Nam De Ly Quoc Su Ly Thuong Kiet Ly Van Phuc Ma May Nam Ngu Nghi Tam Nghia Dung Ngo Tram Ngo Van So Ngoc Ha Ngoc Khanh Ngoc Thuy Nguyen Bieu Nguyen Canh Chan Nguyen Chi Thanh Nguyen Cong Hoan Nguyen Dinh Hoan Nguyen Hoang Ton Nguyen Hong Nguyen Khac Nhu Nguyen Khanh Toan Nguyen Khiet Nguyen Khuyen Nguyen Thai Hoc Nguyen Tri Phuong Nguyen Tu Gian Nguyen Van Ngoc Nha Chung Nha Tho Nhat Chieu Nui Truc Nuoc Phan Lan Ong Ich Khiem
5
DO CV AN
Ba ang Tay Ho Weekend Market Va n goc o T N Quang An Market
AU
LONG BIEN
u Die
an
CO
tB Nha
an Xu
Ben
Ho Tay
oc Nu
an Ph
Thai M
ai
n La
Tu H
oa
huy
Co ng
T oc
Ch ua
Da n g
Ng
TAY HO n
An
n Tha
h1
An
M I TA
Phu Yen
NGH
A ng Qua
ng Duo
West Lake
Ngo 78
Ngoc Thuy
So
1
So
Tan Ap
D at
Cau
Co Tam
ong K iet ie
an Thai TThh Dang Th
hu
u Ba Tr ie
Su M anh
DU
Huy C
TRAN wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 157 Ham HUNG Lon DAO g Phan
Ngo Van So
a Tru ng
P h am
Ly Th u
i en Trang T Opera House
ao N gu L
uoc T oan
Hang B ai
TTrrung
Quang
2
Nh uo m
D AO
Hai B
ang Bach D
HUNG
19 - 1
o
Hoa L Da TTuu
ong
Su Quan
g Hiieeu
H KHAN
inh Tr ong
Le Phun
P h am
Tran B
Ng o Q uyen
Bat Su Hang DDoo nngg Thuoc B ac
De Ly Nam
Hunngg Phung
Boi C hau
Phan
Can
g TTrri Phu on
Nguyen en
Hooaang Die Dieu o
KKhhuc uc Ha
N AN LE DDUUA
Hang
H an g Bu n
Yen Nin h
Chau Lo nngg DDaanngg Dun g
Cua Ba c
Ngguuyen Bi Bieu
Nguyen Caan nh Chhaan Da ng Tat
Hunngg Vuuo ong
Doc La p Mieu
V an
on Tran C
Dang
THA NG
Dinh Le Trang Tien
HOAN KIEM Th o
Do
TRAN
DUC
ong
Han en Han Trraan Nguyyen
ong anh T Le Th
Yet K iieeu
Ong Icchh Khiiem em
uc
n Ph LLyy Va
D uc
g D an
Hoai
an
Dan Tong
Trinh
u Tu Q
u ng D Ch u o
i To
Cau
Ham
oi gV Ha n
Bich
cT an
h Bac
Lo Su a Ly Th
TON
t
g Ha Von
Thung Hang
Le La Lai Le TThhach
a Tru ng
P hu
e g Tr Ha n
g Chun
Dinh Tieenn HHoo aanng
Hoan Kiem Lake
Haanng Dau
ang
St.Tr Joseph's Cathedral ang T hi
Tran Q
ian
Haanng BBee
LLee TThhai To
Nha
ho rieu Nha T Au T
CA n Khiiee Nguye
Ma May
ai
inh
I HA
Dinh Liet
gG Ha n
L Bao
G UON NG D O U U CH
Hang M Maam
Nggu GGiia N
Cau Go Dinh Tiien en Ho Ho
G Tu
n
Ta Hieenn
Quat
g ron gT H an
Giang Vaann Miinnh
en uy Ng
a cT GK P hu AN QU AN TR
Hang Bac Bac
Dao Hang n n Ca g Va Luon
H ao N am
Xa
ng Nga Hang Can Hang
TRAN
An
Ca
oan PPhhu DDoa
Ly Th uong Kiieet
Buom
Hang
u oc S
Hai B
Dong Xuan Market Haanngg CChhieu
Duonngg
Ly Qu
ong
i hoa
Hang
Ch a
Tha nh
Van Chuong Lake
Linh Quang Lake
gB H an
Su
m Ngu Naam
Hanoi Train Station
on
BIEN
Long Bien Train Station
au
Hang Bo
Hang
Tram
Quan
La
am C ua N
m
Tan
en Th ai Ho c
Cua Nam Market
Giam
DONG DA
Vietnam National Academy of Music
N g uy
en
uy gD Ton
Hang N
Hanngg Da
i Die
Nguye n Khuy
Ng o
TTrran Ph u
Hang Dieu hanh
n Th
Qu o c Tu
Haanng Vai
ng T Duo
Doa
C
Leather Market
Vietnam Fine Arts Museum Cao B a Q ua t
om Nhu Tho
u Lie uy nH
Tha nh
Chi Lang Park
u Ph
Ann Traach A ch
Vu
n Bie
Cat Liin nh
Ma ang Ma HHang
n Die
uc
Vo
Kim Ma Bus Station
N G UY EN T H AI HO ao g Ch Ha n
i Tr
ng Gia
TTrran Ph u
han
a
Nu
am oN Ca
Dinh C ong
Phhoong
Da u
Hang GGaa
Ngoc H
KIM M A
Le Hoonng
Hang
gK Ha n
Chhuua Mo t CCoot
Son Tay
H PHUNG
i ha
eN
Hoaanng V Vaan TThhu
BA DINH uc i Tr Nu
Ho
C Gam
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
a
Dooii CCaan
PHAN D IN N
an Xu ng Do u oc gL Ha n Hang CCot ot
oc H
Hanoi Palace
Long Bien Market Long Bien Bus Station
Hang T
M HA A T Bach Thao O GH AN Chi Minh Park HO HoMuseum
Ng
QQuuan Thhaannhh
ue Thhuuy Khhue
G LON CAU
a
Quan Thanh Temple Tran Vu
o nH Ve
Ng uye nK P ha h mH ong ac Nh T ha i u
cX P hu
Khue
YE NP HU
h Chin
Truc Bach Lake
Thuy
Ng hia Co Dung Xa
Du c
Th an hN ie n
ach
9
Pho
Tru cB
Tra
e
4
Qu
g
3
Ho Chi Minh City Business Buff / Body and Temple / Student Eye / Bar Stool / Top Eats / The Empty Wok / A World of Good Photo provided by Bao Zoan
158 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 159
HCMC Essentials
BAKERIES ABC BAKERY BAKERY & CAFÉ
223 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1
phamngulao.abcbakery.co
Baguettes, croissants, pizza, cakes, muffins, donuts and brownies, this bakery and café all in one is a popular stop for those heading through the Backpacker District. Online ordering available. BREAD TALK CHAIN BAKERY
106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 2 Cao Thang, Q3; Vivo City, 1058 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
breadtalkvietnam.com
A Singaporean bakery chain that is vying for the Vietnam cake and bread market. Produces Asian-friendly patisseries and cakes in a spacious, airy atmosphere. Has eight locations and counting. CRUMBS BAKERY & CAFE
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available. Excellent Australianstyle meat pies. HARVEST BAKING AMERICAN BAKERY
harvestbaking.net
With a production facility in Thu Duc, Harvest Baking focuses on both the retail and non-retail trade, cooking up the best American-style bakery products in the city. Has an excellent home delivery service. Check the website for details.
L’AMOUR BAKERY & CAFE
Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn TOUS LES JOURS BAKERY & CAFE
180 Hai Ba Trung, Q1; 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1; 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1; 66B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3; Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7; 17/14 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
touslesjoursbakery.com
The background of this Korean bakery chain makes interesting reading. Established in 1996, in 2004 they opened in the US, 2005 in China and 2007 in Vietnam. French-styled with an Asian touch, the bare-brick décor makes this a popular joint. Has over 25 locations in Vietnam.
Nam Phong Bookstore was founded at the of end 2002 in Ho Chi Minh City as the first and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam. Only books written in French are for sale, covering for all ages and tastes. A catalogue is available at namphongsaigon.com PNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
2A Le Duan, Q1; 2nd Floor Parkson Center, 35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1
pnc.com.vn
Although there are some English-language texts in this modern, well laid out bookstore, the focus here is on all things Vietnamese. Worth checking out, thought, for the occasional gem.
M M M VOELKER BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.
M M M BOOKSHOPS FAHASA VIETNAMESE / ENGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKSTORE
40 Nguyen Hue, Q1; 60-62 Le Loi, Q1
fahasa.com
Selling up a good selection of English language books — in a range of reading areas — this multi-storied bookshop also does stationery, toys and a range of related products. Has a good selection of ESL texts. LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM PHONG 82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 7858
facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam. NORDCHAM 17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08) 5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
M M M CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES
BUSINESS GROUPS ANUPA ECO LUXE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AMCHAM) New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
amchamvietnam.com
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (AUSCHAM) 2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM (BBGV) 25 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANADIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (CANCHAM) Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to
LEATHER & JEWELLERY
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2394
anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm
This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers. BAM SKATE SHOP SKATEWEAR / STREET
174 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn BLUE DRAGON
SHOPPING MALLS DIAMOND PLAZA 34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA
126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2084 GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN DESIGN & JEWELLERY
35 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month. GINKGO
SAIGON SQUARE 77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics
VINCOM CENTER 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8755; 54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
160 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court
wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.
M M M COOKING CLASSES
IPA-NIMA BAGS & ACCESSORIES
77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
AIRLINES
LITTLE ANH-EM BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING
AIR ASIA airasia.com AIR FRANCE airfrance.com.vn
37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories. L’USINE
CATHAY PACIFIC cathaypacific.com/vn CHINA AIRLINES china-airlines.com JAPAN AIRLINES vn.jal.com
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles. MANDARINA
JETSTAR PACIFIC jetstar.com/vn/en
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5267
OVERLAND CLUB 35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days. SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The threehour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class. VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
M M M KOREAN AIR koreanair.com LAO AIRLINES laoairlines.com
ORANGE BUDGET CLOTHING
152 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 2620
9am to 10pm PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
MALAYSIA AIRLINES malaysiaairlines.com SINGAPORE AIRLINES singaporeair.com
papaya-tshirt.com T&V TAILOR TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 4556
triciaandverona.com U.BEST HOUSE TRAVEL GEAR
THAI AIRWAYS thaiairways.com.vn
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel: 0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com VESPA SHOP
TIGER AIRWAYS tigerair.com VIETJETAIR vietjetair.com VIETNAM AIRLINES vietnamairlines.com
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE ATC FURNITURE ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
268B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3932 6455; 30A Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3840 3946
atc-craft.com
AUSTIN HOME REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS
42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
This An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks. CHI LAI HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competi-
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 161
BUSINESS BUFF THE OLDEST COMPANIES IN THE WORLD
BY SHANE DILLON
The oldest restaurant in the world, Stiftskeller St. Peter in Austria
A
s my company celebrates 10 years in Vietnam (and 60 years in Asia), this year I decided to look into the companies who have existed for the longest amount of time. Below follows some of the oldest companies and what they have done for so long.
Before the First Millenium Nisiyama Onsen Keiunkan Inn, Japan, is a hot spring hotel that opened in AD 705. It has been run by the same family for 52 generations and is the oldest running hotel in the world. Many of the staff members pass their jobs from family member to family member, and the inn is world famous in the hospitality industry for its unflagging commitment and dedication to protect the business. Stiftskeller St. Peter, Austria, was established in AD 803 and is the oldest, continually running restaurant in Europe. The restaurant has been host to countless dignitaries over its 1,200-year history, including cardinals, kings and, in more modern times, Bill Clinton and Clint Eastwood. Sean’s Bar, Ireland, opened in AD 900 and is argued to be the oldest bar in Ireland. Sean’s Bar is located in the very heart of the country, on the banks of the River Shannon at its intersection with the Esker Riada — the ancient route carved by glaciers that allowed travellers safe passage across the bog for thousands of years.
The Middle Ages Weihenstephan Brewery, Germany, started brewing in AD 1040 and has made beer for nearly a thousand years, making it the
162 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
oldest brewery in the world. Its secret: the brewery makes incredibly delicious beer — the original brew has an incredible 98 percent rating on BeerAdvocate, the site for beer aficionados. Frapin Cognac, France, started in AD 1270 and makes the epitome of cognac excellence. They do this by not turning to outside growers for grapes, as other producers do, but by growing the grapes themselves. This enables them to apply the most exacting standards of quality control at every level of production, starting with the vines.
The 15th Century and Beyond The Shore Porters Society, Scotland, have been moving people’s possessions around the world since AD 1498. They were established a few years after Columbus ‘discovered’ America, and missed out on being in the Canterbury Tales by only a hundred years. Beretta, Italy, has been making firearms since AD 1526 and to this day remains a family owned and operated business. The arms company got its start when the Arsenal of Venice needed 185 barrels for the arquebus, and old hand cannon. Cambridge University Press, England, has been printing the books we all pretended to read at university since AD 1534. It is the world’s oldest publishing house, working out of the ridiculously prestigious university that bears its name. None other than Henry VIII gave the press the original permission to print ‘all manner of books’. Since AD 1623, Zildjian, originally from Turkey, has kept rhythm alive through
their cymbals. Founded by Avedis Zildjian in Istanbul before his family brought the percussionist company to the U.S., many a famous rock legend has used their equipment including, Ringo Star of the Beatles, Neil Pert of Rush, and Charlie Watts of the Rolling Stones. The company was so instrumental (get it) to the U.S. government that it was granted the manufacturer permission to buy copper during the resource-starved period of World War II. Royal Delft, Netherlands, is an earthenware company that has been making fine pottery since AD 1653. It is claimed to be the fanciest pottery on the planet and comes from a single earthenware factory in the fairytale town of Delft. The style is so intertwined with the city that it’s called Delftware, and it is the only company with a seal approval from the Dutch Royal Family. The elegant blueand-white vases, pots and bowls are a part of the Dutch identity. Finally, how about some tea? Since AD 1706, the Twinings Tea Company, England, has produced the national drink. According to reports, founder Thomas Twining’s Gunpowder Green Tea sold for the equivalent of US$260 (VND5.6 million) per 100 grams back in the 18th century. Twinings has longevity in more than one way — the company has been located at the same London address since it opened in 1706, and it has the oldest corporate logo still in use. Shane works for the Pacific Cross Group of companies which has over 60 years’ experience in Southeast Asia. He can be contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC Essentials
tive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories. EM EM SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4408
M M M CYCLING FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training wheels or stabilisers, and support proper balance development.
8am to 9.30pm
JETT CYCLES
FEELING TROPIC
384 Tran Phu, Q5; 168 Vo Thi Sau, Q3
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES
51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181 Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.
OWN-BRAND CYCLING SHOWROOM
jett-cycles.com
The showroom home of Jett Cycles, a homegrown cycling company with all products designed in Vietnam. Sells up budget bicycles to high-end product, with the full range of accessories in between. Also stocks GT and Cannondale. SAIGON CYCLES CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
44 Phan Van Nghi (S51-1 Sky Garden 2), Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3114
xedapcaocap.com
mekong-creations.org
Specialising in Trek and Surly, Saigon Cycles is also famed for its Sunday morning rides. Sells the full range of accessories and also does bicycle repairs.
NGUYEN FRERES
THE BIKE SHOP
MEKONG CREATIONS FAIR TRADE CRAFTS
35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
2 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 9459
8am to 8pm
MEKONG QUILTS HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org NHA XINH HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 6115
nhaxinh.com
CYCLING & ACCESSORIES
250 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6405
thebikeshopvn.com
The go-to location for all your cycling needs in District 2. Sells a range of brands including Cannondale, Jett, GT and Aluboo, as well as the full selection of accessories. Organises regular cycle rides, does repairs and rentals. Check facebook.com/thebikeshopvn for more details.
M M M DENTAL CLINICS
REMIX DECO INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
THE FURNITURE HOUSE HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn
ACCADENT INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service. Orthodontics is also available.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 163
A WORLD
OF
CONSUMING CULTURE
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
N
ot that long ago I attended an event where a couple — both foreigners — were decked out in the Vietnamese national dress: she, an ao dai and he, an ao gam, both in headgear. While the evening had great music and dancing, it was neither a wedding nor a state function. Why were they dressed up in another culture’s national costume? “Because it’s fun!” was the breathless reply. I was reminded of this night a short time later when I saw the photos from the China-themed Met Ball in New York, an event with precious few Chinese designers were either on the invite list or represented on the red carpet. However, the attendees outdid themselves with some woefully bad ‘exotic’ interpretations of things ‘Chinese’: flaming headdresses, opium poppies, embroidery, brocade and cheongsam dresses worn as gowns. Sartorial adventures aside, this is cultural reductionism. We reduce a country, society or race to easily digestible stereotypes that have nothing to do with the reality an individual from the same might experience and everything to do with perpetuating our egocentrism. We do this ‘othering’ with food as well.
A model wears Bhutan traditional dress for a Vogue photoshoot
Appropriating Culture Why is her pho so exotic to you? It’s soup. Families in Vietnam have been eating it for well over a hundred years. Fetishising food and insisting on only eating ‘authentic’ (whatever that means) food only serves to aggrandise the foodie making the proclamations. We’ve all suffered through a meal with someone braying on about a dish’s ‘honesty’ or ‘lack of pretense’ (read: romanticising the ‘exotic’) or how the people who prepared ‘such complex flavours’ (read: wow, the natives are actually sophisticated) in such a ‘simple’ kitchen (read: primitive, unhygienic but extra bragging rights for you!). Food can be a conduit to experiencing aspects of a culture, but to eat goi
164 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
cuon and then burpingly pronounce one’s understanding — knowing — the culture is nonsense at best and cultural appropriation at worse. Your cultural comprehension isn’t deepened because you’re obsessed with being the only person who ‘knows’ about some street stall you ‘dared’ to eat at or because you regularly ‘check in’ with your ‘ethnic’ friends about ‘what’s real’ to eat.
Same Same but Different Perspective Something else recently came to my attention about the different ways we appropriate. If someone roots around in a dumpster — and is good looking — and speaks English with a ‘cute’ French accent,
then their lifestyle choice is applauded as ‘freegan’ or ‘freecycling’, but if a homeless person with mental health and addiction issues is caught doing same, the act is criminalised. Oh, and in the first example, the pretty thing’s homelessness is — couch surfing! These cultures, people or food become exotic, idealised and interpreted according to western paternalism and nostalgia for a mythical past. What you’re looking for has to include all the long years of migration, colonisation and globalisation and it won’t be found on a single plate. Your exploitsin-a-bowl is someone else’s sustenance. Dana McNairn is the CEO of KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth
HCMC Essentials
MAPLE HEALTHCARE DENTAL & CHIROPRACTICS
Md6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 (across from FV Hospital), Tel: Tel: (08) 5410 0100
maplehealthcare.net
Specialising in healthcare, dental services and chiropractic medicine, the recently opened Maple Healthcare comes replete with the latest technology together with efficient and comfortable service. MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 3399
STARLIGHT CLINIC
DENTAL
DOGMA 8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese propaganda art and a collection put together over the last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the majority of the work comes from the war period when provocative poster art was used to inspire and motivate. Sells prints of the originals and related products.
Ope
nin g
015 An Phu Summer 2
GALERIE QUYNH 65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222 24, Thao Dien,Q2
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM 97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4441
Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.
Set in one of the finest remaining buildings of colonial-era Vietnam, this multi-storey museum houses collections spanning centuries of Vietnamese art. Has regular exhibitions.
starlightdental.net
Dr. Philippe Guettier & International Team of Dentists
baotangmythuattphcm.vn
SAN ART 48/7 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 6294 7059
Award for “Excellence in De Vietnam ntist 2014 by Vietnam Economic Times 0 ry” 201
Starlight An Phu
Starlight City Center
24 Thao Dien, Dist.2, HCMC starlightdental@gmail.com www.starlightdental.net
02 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, HCM City (Ho Con Rua - Turtle Lake) Tel: 38 22 62 22
MINH KHAI DENTAL CLINIC 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Dist.1, HCM City - Tel: 39 25 33 99 NO.1 DENTAL CLINIC 51 Ba Thang Hai Street, Dist.10, HCM City - Tel: 39 29 09 09
san-art.org WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.
M M M GALLERIES CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY 27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel: 0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.
San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists / curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
M M M GROCERIES & LIQUOR ANNAM GOURMET MARKET GROCERY & DELI
16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9332; 41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. CLASSIC FINE FOODS GROCERIES & IMPORTER
No. 17, Street 12 (perpen-
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 165
HCMC Essentials
dicular to Tran Nao street), Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.
M M M HAIRDRESSERS, SALONS & SPAS AVEDA HERBAL SPA Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
CAT MOC SPA 63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6295 8926
catmocspa.com
MEATWORKS BUTCHERY BUTCHERS 1 Street 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2565
meatworksasia.com
Focusing on the retail trade, the meat at this Australianmanaged butcher comes pre-prepared and, if you so wish, pre-marinated. Sells up some of the best imported meats in town together with homemade sausages, free-range products and excellent Australian grassfed steak.
PHUONG HA GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 1318 A small yet amazingly wellstocked store that puts many a supermarket in this country to shame. As well as a dizzying selection of imported foods, also sells frozen meat and fish, fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and a wide selection of dairy products. THE WAREHOUSE WINE SHOP
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8826 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits. VEGGY’S GROCERS & DELI
29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Courtesy of a farm in Dalat, Veggy’s retails some of the best quality fruit and veg available in the city. Also has a wide selection of imported food products including USDA beef, the same beef served up at El Gaucho.
Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services. CONCEPT COIFFURE 48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.
Jasminespa.vn
Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services including massage and some excellent treatments. QUYNH BEAUTY SALON 104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321 A District 2 favourite, this is the salon to head to for anything from massage to haircuts, hairwashing to nails. Cheap prices, too. SPA TROPIC 79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.
M M M FAME NAILS SALON 3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909 682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA 129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8368
HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC CHIROPRACTOR
glowsaigon.com
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3939 3930
HAIR BAR
ACC provides effective chiropractic, physiotherapy, acupuncture and foot care treatments through the use of cutting edge technology for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries as well as all types of foot related problems without the need of drugs or surgery.
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.
www.acc.vn
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment only, giving female clients the opportunity to get their hair done on the run. Of course, they have to look fabulous, too. Fortunately this is one of Hair Bar’s specialities. Check the salon out on Facebook: facebook.com/ hairbarvn. INDOCHINE SPA 69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.
166 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
JASMINE 45 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2737
AMERICAN EYE CENTER 5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
americaneyecentervn.com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.
SPORTS CRICKET
astere@hotmail.fr
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington, Tel: 0909 967 353
SAIGON RAIDERS
richard.car rington@ market-edge.asia eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228 770 038
Saigonraiders.com SAIGON RUGBY CLUB RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
deepteshgill@gmail.com
SPORTS — GENERAL
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986 973 244
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976 469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail. com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903 998 824
sacccricket@gmail.com
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988 571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908 200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL & RUGBY AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL Tel: 0937 683 230
vietnamswans.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON
gauloisdesaigon.com
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171.
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM
isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE
saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB
saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176
thelandmarkvietnam.com TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB 436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn ULTIMATE FRISBEE RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
X–ROCK CLIMBING 7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONALE (CMI) FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC
1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinemagoing experiences in Saigon. For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521
This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy, ophthalmology, paediatrics and acupuncture. FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848; 95 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2000
Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in– patient and out–patient care, check–ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations. FV HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care. FV SAIGON CLINIC
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
State–of–the–art medical centre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations. HANH PHUC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7, Tel: 0906 684 969 INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.
vietnammedicalpractice.com
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
Binh Duong Boulevard, Thuan An District, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 363 6068
hanhphuchospital.com
Claiming to be the first Singapore-standard hospital in Ho Chi Minh City, this institution based on the outskirts of town is gaining a growing reputation for service and treatment. Specialises in providing healthcare to women and children. Has a clinic at 97 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC SKIN CARE / COSMETICS Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE SKIN CARE / COSMETICS
99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments. Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures. TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL EASTERN MEDICINE
187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 6579 VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 4545
victoriavn.com
Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
megastar.vn
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 167
FOOD PROMOS HCMC
The French National Day buffet at Sheraton Saigon means foie gras, foie gras and yes, foie gras
Independence Day @ Riverside Renaissance renaissance-saigon.com In celebration of Jul. 4, the Renaissance’s ground floor restaurant, Riverside Café, is bringing in all things American. Think imported US steak, grilled to your taste, Napa Valley wine and of course, that most American of beers, Budweiser. The dinneronly deal runs until from Independence Day itself until Saturday Jul. 11 and costs VND1 million++ (with a glass of Napa Valley wine) or VND1.25 million ++ (with a free flow of Napa Valley wine, Budweiser or soda).
Summer Promo @ La Habana labana-saigon.com La Habana has been hosting Word editorial meetings for some time now, so we can easily attest to the quality of its food. It’s got paella, tapas and mexican grills coming out of its sombreros as well as a menu dedicated to German cuisine. Where the joint really comes into its own are the long happy hours and daily live entertainment. Combine those three together and we think it’s a definite ‘go-to’ for a fun night out in the city. Making it even better value for the relatively ‘teacher-free’ months of July and August, La Habana is offering 20
168 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
percent off on all lunches and 10 percent off on all dinners. Now there’s nothing really stopping you. Ole!
Sunday Package @ NY Steakhouse steakhouse.com.vn Vegetarians avert your eyes — this next part is a beef-rich environment. Already established as a leading player in the competitive steak house game, New York Steak House takes pride in its beef. Whether it be a ribeye, sirloin or chateaubriand, NYSH definitely has the meat game wrapped up. To tempt you even more to its well appointed Nguyen Dinh Chieu residence, they’ve put together a Sunday package for four to six people costing VND2.25 million++ including 1.1 kg of US beef, six side dishes and a chocolate mousse. The same deal for six to eight people costs VND2.95 million ++ and includes 1.4kg of US beef, eight side dishes and the same yummy chocolate mousse. Just in time for the summer.
All Shucked Up @ Caravelle Saigon caravellehotel.com Oyster week is back at Nineteen Restaurant this month from Jul. 13 to Jul. 19 starring the finest, freshest harvest from Vung Tau, Nha
Trang and Halong Bay. Enjoy a gourmet spread at Nineteen’s nightly dinner buffet, together with an oyster selection to satisfy your deepest cravings. Fill your plate from a fresh oyster station and then try variations on the theme such as oyster Mornay baked in Bechamel sauce, oysters in yellow curry and breaded deep-fried oysters with lemon, parsley and tartar sauce. For info call 0906 900523 or email eam-fb@ caravellehotel.com
French National Day @ Sheraton Saigon sheratonsaigon.com Celebrate French National Day on Jul. 14 with a special French-themed buffet at Saigon Café. The selection of French dishes will include poached duck galantine with pistachio and dried apricot, pate de champagne, foie gras terrine, foie gras panfried to your liking, assorted seafood on ice with oysters, prawns and crabs, roast leg of lamb with garlic gravy and flageolet beans, beef prime rib, salmon fillet, red wine marinated beef ragout with mushrooms and bacon, and chicken breast with foie gras cream sauce. This will be followed up by a large selection of desserts and for VND1.28 million ++ is rounded off by a freeflow of sparkling wine, coffee and tea. For info email ssht.fbsecretary@sheraton.com
HCMC
M M M INSURANCE
Essentials
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM 4th Floor, Continental Tower, 8185 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9908
bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.
IF CONSULTING IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7362
insuranceinasia.com
Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs. For emergencies call 0903 732365 LIBERTY INSURANCE 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 1800 599 998
libertyinsurance.com.vn
International insurance firm providing the full range of services to the individual — car insurance, travel insurance, health insurance, home insurance and much more. TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES 181 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 5367
ten-pac.com
A full-service insurance broker offering a wide range of insurance solutions from the best local and international providers. Recommendations are based exclusively on client needs.
M M M INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (ABCIS) Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08) 5431 1833; Saigon South Campus 2 (Foundation Stage & Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as ‘outstanding’ by British government inspectors, academic results puts ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide. Provides education for two to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment. AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS) Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 2727; Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6960; Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 4040
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 7 Road 23, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence. Has a newly built campus.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS) 246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British style curriculum for an international student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.
1st and 2nd floor, Somerset Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6287 0804
etonhouse.vn/schools/hcmc
Following an international curriculum for children aged 18 months to six years, in the early years, an InquireThink-Learn approach is followed, inspired by the Reggio Emilia Project of Northern Italy. It is a play-based, inquiry model in which children coconstruct their learning in close, respectful collaboration with their teachers. This helps us provide an environment where children take responsibility for their own learning, allowing them a head start in life.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)
issp.edu.vn
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
Set in a purpose-built campus, International School Saigon Pearl (ISSP) is an elementary school catering for ages 18 months to 11 years. With 90 percent of their teachers having master’s degrees, they are able to promise a vigorous American curriculum while including specialist subjects such as music, art, sport and languages.
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Q2, Vietnam, Tel: (08) 7300 7257
eishcmc.com
The European International School offers a supportive and challenging academic education from Early Years to Grade 12 based on the IB curriculum. EIS is a Nobel Talent School and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school educates global citizens to enjoy learning, inquiring and caring for others.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities. RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext 120/121/122
Energized Engaged Empowered
ETONHOUSE INTERNATIONAL PRE-SCHOOL @ AN PHU
TATTOO ARTISTS 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).
tive play-based programmes for children ages two to five. Known for unique facilities, experienced staff, highquality learning resources, and small class sizes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC) 28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
A fully accredited IB World School, authorised to teach all three programmes of the International Baccalaureate curriculum to students aged 2 to 18 years, ISHCMC is fully accredited by both the Council of International Schools (CIS) and the New England Association of Schools and Colleges (NEASC), two of the most prestigious international accreditation organisations. Has over 1,000 students from over 50 different nationalities.
KIDS CLUB SAIGON 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 5944
kidsclubsaigon.com
Early childhood centres in Phu My Hung offering crea-
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an International British school providing an inclusive curriculum based upon the British curriculum complemented by the International Primary Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a family school with first-class facilities including a 350-seat theatre, swimming pool, mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE 15 Street 12, Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.com
SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city. Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.
LAC VIET TATTOO 608 Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO 31B Nguyen Du, Q1
saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI 209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat. com
HCMC Essentials
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS) 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901
RESIDENT VIETNAM Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well–rounded education at all levels.
SNAP 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
ssis.edu.vn
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs. SMARTKIDS 1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment. THE AMERICAN SCHOOL 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
tas.edu.vn
residentvietnam.com
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web– based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs. THE NEST 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.
CHUM’S HOUSE 121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7237 EASY SAIGON Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome. HAPPY HOUSE 32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1, Tel: 01659 419916 NAM HOUSE 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.
170 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM) 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS 12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
RECRUITMENT & HR
With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.
ADECCO VIETNAM 11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3430
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower, 9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12, District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3 826 7799
Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions. Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.
M M M
adecco.com.vn
M M M PROPERTY RENTALS
M M M
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC 1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD. Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC.
vieclambank.com
VIETNAMWORKS.COM 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
The best-known recruitment website in Vietnam. Post you’re the position you’re looking for and wait for the responses. You’ll get many. Also a good site for expat jobseekers.
asiantigers-mobility.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field. LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM 396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation. SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES 8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS DANCENTER 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio. HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING 189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER 37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE 94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes. PIANO CLASSES Tel: 01225 636682
morrissokoloff@hotmail.com SAIGON MOVEMENT Tel: 0987 027 722
saigonmovement@gmail.com SAIGON SEAL TEAM 55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279 SAIGON PONY CLUB 38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY 28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7. TAE KWON DO BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149 VINSPACE 6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email Vietnam@santaferelo.com for info.
M M M SERVICED APARTMENTS
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay, Q2, Tel: (08) 3742 5678
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from two to four-bedroom units with spectacular panoramic views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate work and living areas, a balcony, modern amenities, elegant furnishings and carefully chosen trimmings.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic views of the downtown area. NORFOLK MANSION 17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service. Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants. RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS 53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2) SHERWOOD RESIDENCE 127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service. SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.
M M M SPORTS & FITNESS CHIARA SQUINZI Tel: 01278 163620
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also offering fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving calorie– calibrated meals. SAIGON HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
Sunday 2pm sharp, Caravelle hotel. Bus out to the county with a walk, usually 4km and a run around 8km. VND150,000 for locals and VND220,000 for expats. Bus, water, snacks and freeflow beer after the run. SHERATON FITNESS
sauna. Has a small but consistent membership. STAR FITNESS GYM HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms. THE LANDMARK CLUB
thelandmarkvietnam.com
In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.
M M M VIETNAMESE CLASSES
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN 135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670 771
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555 A small but well-appointed gym with regular fitness classes, a steam room and
Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.
M M M SPORTS GARMENTS
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176
sheratonsaigon.com
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
vlstudies.com
GYM, POOL, SQUASH
HEALTH CLUB & GYM
Level 5, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
VLS SAIGON 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 0168
vietnameselanguagegarden. com
SCORE-TECH 1870/3G An Phu Dong 3, Q12, Tel: (08) 3719 9588
score-tech.net
Apparel company offering personalised sport garments for companies, schools and professional sports clubs using the latest printing technology with a design team from Barcelona. Score-Tech controls the whole production process from fabric production and printing to sewing. Big and small orders for all sporting and commercial needs.
laholista.com
Experienced health coach and corporate & school wellness coach. Can help clients achieve health and weight goals through an innovative holistic approach of food, body and mind. Email chiara@laholista.com for info.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTRE BOXING / FITNESS 49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2, Tel: 0947 771326
cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril's clients love. Includes yoga, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes. Tuesday to Friday every week at 5pm. All activities are safe and run by Cyril himself.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 171
HCMC On The Town
BARS & CLUBS
GAME ON BREAD & BUTTER
2 LAM SON (MARTINI BAR) TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wide-ranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City). BROMA, NOT A BAR COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
ACOUSTIC BAR LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists. APOCALYPSE NOW DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
An institution and the kind of place you end up drunk after midnight. Famed for its notso-salubrious clientele, this two-floor establishment with DJs and occasional live music is also famed for its hotdogs, which are served up in the garden terrace out back.
41 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail. BUDDHA BAR RESTOBAR
7 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys. CENTRO LOUNGE BAR & CAFÉ
BAAN THAI SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant all in one, the focus here is not just the cuisine but a contemporary bar area and live sports. Lots of live sports. The Thai cuisine is cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs. BLANCHY’S TASH RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 blanchystash.com A multi-storey bar with décor and atmosphere more akin to such an establishment in New York or London. Has a reputation for bringing in big-name DJs. And when we say big, we mean big. Check their website for details. BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR
9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.
172 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5946 A café during the day and a bar at night, this kitschly designed but nonetheless attractive establishment is one of the few places in town catering for the pink dollar. Has taken over from where the now defunct Q Bar left off. CHILL SKYBAR TOP-END BAR & TERRACE
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views alone, Chill Skybar remains the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering holes in the city. EON HELI BAR LOUNGE BAR
Level 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Breathtaking views require a vantage point and EON Heli Bar is by far the highest spot in Saigon for a spectacular cityscape, appealing drinks and a vibrant ambience. Night live music and DJs.
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: (08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
A fresh feel thanks to the large space and light-wood tables makes this Australian-influenced watering hole a popular bar for televised sports, pub food, darts, pool and more.
Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine. Gets busy at weekends with a clientele made up of hip, young Vietnamese and the occasional foreigner. LONG PHI FRENCH / RESTOBAR
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
28 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8605 hoavien.vn The original microbrewery, this large, wooden-panelled, brass-kegged Czech Brewhouse is as popular as it was 15 years ago when it was first opened. Does a great food menu to accompany the home-brewed beer. ICE BLUE EXPAT BAR
54 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.
207 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR
6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Wiener schnitzel. Nightly live music and regular salsa classes. LA FENETRE SOLEIL FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR
44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets. LAST CALL AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters. LE PUB INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 7679
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www. vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style CHEZ GUIDO
MAY RESTAURANT & BAR
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR
19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
mayrestaurant.com.vn
An international comfortfood menu mixes with excellent cocktails and an extensive winelist at this attractive, international bar and restaurant. Dine at the bar or upstairs in the restaurant space. NUMBER FIVE EXPAT BAR
LA HABANA
DELIVERY
44 Pasteur, Q1 The original expat bar, this institution of a place gets packed every night thanks to its drinking hall atmosphere, attractive bar staff and German food menu. Has regular live music. OMG! FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR
Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1 A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon. O’BRIEN’S
DOMINO’S PIZZA Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn EAT.VN www.eat.vn
HUNGRYPANDA. VN
www.hungrypanda.vn KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam. com.vn
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn
PIZZA HUT (PHD) Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL
74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls. ONTOP BAR Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4866 Located on the 20th floor with stunning views of the city, houses an upscale, contemporary interior and an outdoor terrace. A good venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
TACO BICH www.tacobich.com VIETNAMMM www.vietnammm.com
ambience. PEACHES CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more. A popular local haunt. PHATTY’S AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the goto, Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites. RUBY SOHO CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 A Phu My Hung mainstay thanks to its cartoon décor and light but fun ambience. Has a reasonable food menu to complement the drinks. SAIGON OUTCAST EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR
188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini-skate park and graffiti space. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and markets. SAIGON RANGER ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
5/7 Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 7300 0559
facebook.com/saigonranger
Aspiring to be a focal point for artistic activities, the space at Saigon Ranger has been established to create encounter and dialogue between different forms of art. Boasts concrete floors, dark wooden furniture, quirky wall designs and a stage for live music and other types of performance. SAIGON SAIGON BAR LIVE MUSIC / ROOFTOP BAR
9th Floor, Caravelle Saigon, 1923 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
This iconic bar is a great place to watch the sun go down over the city and relax for a few drinks with friends. Has live entertainment six nights a week courtesy of resident Cuban band, Q’vans, from 9pm Wednesday to Monday. SHRINE BAR LOUNGE BAR
61 Ton Thap Thiep, Q1
shrinebarsaigon.com
Shrine creates a drinking and dining experience in a temple-like at-
mosphere. Inspired by Bantay Srei, a temple from the ancient Angkor kingdom, the walls are covered in statues depicting ancient Khmer gods and kings. With ambient lighting and town tempo music, here it’s all about good cocktails and an even better atmosphere. SEVENTEEN SALOON THEMED MUSIC BAR
103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here. SPOTTED COW INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts. STORM P
THE TAVERN EXPAT & SPORTS BAR
R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs. Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
A sophisticated yet down-to-earth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and one of the best spirit selections in town. Serves creative, Japanese and Germaninfluenced cuisine to supplement the drinks. VINYL BAR MUSIC & SPORTS BAR
Stormp.vn
Named after the Danish artist Storm P, this long-running bar is the home of Saigon’s Scandinavian community thanks to its laid-back atmosphere and excellent food menu. A good place to watch the live sports. THE CUBE BAR
BANKSY CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe, Banksy promises a young and vibrant hideout in an old 1960sera apartment building. Remember to head up the steep stairs within to dig into their secret stash of clothes and accessories. CAFE THOAI VIEN 159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find yourself plunging straight into lush greenery. Cafe Thoai Vien serves up a spacious and airy setting to enjoy a quiet sip. From small eats to big bites and everything to drink, it’s a great place to unwind from all that buzz. CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ
70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes. Has a darts area out back and is a popular space for watching the live English Premier League.
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
vinylbarsaigon.com
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Settle into the Javanese-style interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews in Saigon. Using own grown and specially sourced Dalat beans, speciality coffee such as cold drip, siphon, and Chemex are must haves for the avid coffee drinker.
WINE BAR 38 CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
213 Bui Vien, Q1
Set just off the street on the quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco Dicaff serves an expat and local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured concoctions, from a five-seat coffee bar. COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy décor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas, sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an emphasis on all things Latin. THE OBSERVATORY BAR, ART & DJ SPACE
5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, (Opposite Elisa Boat) Known for its late night parties and focus on international artists, Observatory is now at a bigger space in District 4. Complete with a new balcony overlooking the Saigon River and an even larger sound system, The Observatory is a key node in the Asian underground music circuit. THE ORIENT
WINE EMBASSY CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR
13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporarydesigned wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines. XU CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR
71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior. Regular DJ nights.
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR
24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior, a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a pool table and live music. A great venue for a few beers and more.
M M M CAFES & ICE-CREAM (A) CAFE 15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 173
BAR STOOL CONTAINER PUB
I
f you’re a city slicker, then it doesn’t get much more ‘urban’ than drinking draught beer in a former shipping container. That’s exactly what Container Pub is, a remodeled, refurbished and cleaned up container that’s just opened as a café-cum-bar in District 2. It also doesn’t get much more ‘An Phu’; immediately behind the expatheavy Vista apartment complex, jutting up against the car park. So no pool-view then, but plenty to make up for it. And I’m predicting a suburban hit. Drinking here, particularly in the small roadside beer garden, or on the container rooftop, feels like something westerners are used to, and definitely something authentic in the area. Message to Buddha Bar — yes, you’re in Thao Dien, but look out, you’re about to feel like a hike. Fan Club — whatever, you’re way too expensive.
174 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Photos by Francis Xavier
Cheap and Cheerful Open for just a week when I discovered it, it’s already doing a great trade in morning coffee and of course cheap draught beer. A Heineken will set you back a lofty VND30,000, while a Tiger shouldn’t stretch too many educational budgets at VND25,000. I asked manager My what brought the place about, and turns out her uncle is chief distributor for a major beer label. I guess when you’re that kind of guy, you get pretty good at spotting opportunities, and you probably know a few people, too. Also working in its favour is the cost. At VND50 million a container, the set-up sounds cheap, a fraction of what bricks and mortar might be. This means this place will quickly pay for itself. When I went there it wasn’t quiet. It’s a container, it’s never going to be quiet, but
there were plenty of people. At this stage the expats were in short supply, but this will change for sure. One couple who were there were Sanjhit and Wesley from France. “We like it,” started Sanjhit, “it’s cool. It’s a container, man! We saw it the other day and it’s something we’ve seen all over Europe, so we had to come. That was on Friday, today is Tuesday, and it’s our third visit already!” The food also makes this watering hole worth a third visit, because it’s deliciously cheap and cheerful. And even though it’s not what this column is about, at VND45,000, the seafood spaghetti will be getting some serious patronage from this underpaid writer. Nice to meet you Container Pub, welcome to the neighbourhood! — Jon Aspin The Container Pub is on the corner of Street 13 and An Phu, Q2, just behind The Vista
HCMC On The Town
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth. DECIBEL INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1, Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.
touch of modernity. From the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows immense local culture, done with a modern flare. Be seen here at one of the latest popular joint in town. MOCKINGBIRD CAFE 4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of cafe establishments in an old apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a romantic time over mojitos, or good ol’ caffeine-infused relaxation. PLANTRIP CHA TEA ROOM
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR
23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice bar and café dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that avoid the local obsession with sugar and condensed milk. A pleasant, contemporary environment adds to the theme.
8A/10B1 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: 0945 830905 Tea, tea and more tea, all in a contemporary, quirky environment. At Plantrip Cha customers go on a sensory journey to experience the tastes and smells of teas from across Asia, Europe, America and the Middle East. THE LOOP HEALTHY CAFÉ FARE / BAGELS
HIDEAWAY INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courtyard, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is well-priced and maintains a creative flair. I.D. CAFÉ CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee. L’USINE CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back. Second location on Le Loi. M2C CAFE 44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets Culture), everything gets a
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08) 3602 6385 Low-key yet nice-on-the-eye décor helps create the caféstyle atmosphere at this European-influenced café and restaurant. Sells excellent coffee and if you like bagels, here you’ll be in heaven. THE MORNING CAFE 2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: 0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a bright spot by the window and get snuggly with the comfy upholstery in this second-floor cafe. With a cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent. THE OTHER PERSON CAFE 2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by maids in costume? Call for a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking while spending an afternoon in this candy-land inspired cafe. THE PRINT ROOM CONTEMPORARY CAFE
158 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 175
COFFEE CUP CAKES & ALE
A
s you walk in Cakes & Ale, you are hit by the 1950s colour palette and Jacques Brel playing over the speakers. Metal fan wind rustles the beaded stork curtain, and a blissed-out dog and cat clack along the tile floors. Painted metal screens partition the L-shaped interior from a comfortable terrace, populated with the same classic couches and quiet young people. Out here, fish provide the low rumble of continuous, enthusiastic life. The owner and chief cake-maker — whose name I didn’t get, perhaps because there was no awkward pause in our conversation where such formalities are typically exchanged — put all these disparate elements together in the hopes of achieving one feeling: comfort. Why are there tampons available in the bathroom (inside a little cloth bag, with a warning I ignored, for “gentlemen to keep out”)? “I want it to be comfortable.”
176 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Photos by Francis Xavier
Why aren’t there flowers outside? “I want it to be natural, for the inside to match the outside.” From the accordion to the Sunny Computer console, to the cabinet television with dried flowers and yellow rotary telephone on top, it seems like home. Someone’s home, the home we all sometimes wish we could go back to.
The Product Menu-wise, cakes and ale isn’t too different from your other cafés in the pre-L’usine price bracket, with juices and coffee options falling into the VND30,000-and-up range. The juices are good, and their lattés are serviceable, although not the wisest choice coffee-wise (with a thin and bubbly layer of milk foam covering the concoction — although bonus points should be awarded for the waitress’s quick replacement of my sugar-filled latté with a sugarless one). As far as cakes, the selection changes every day. Throughout my two visits, I had
the owner-recommended menu mainstay flan — “it’s a secret recipe,” said the owner, passed down by his grandmother — a no-bake cheesecake and a bouncy, three-tier chocolate mousse cake. They were all good, of the light and springy variety of cakes, satisfying but not quite decadent. They also run baking classes. The ales weren’t our choice either time, but the selection on that front is a bit more decadent, with a decent selection of Trappist ales rating in the hundreds of thousands. But in the end, the consumables aren’t the main criteria to judge Cakes & Ale on. The phrase “cakes and ale” was used by Shakespeare to refer to the good things in life, and on that front Cakes & Ale hits the mark. — Ed Weinberg Cakes & Ale is at 6B Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3, HCMC — down the Papa’s Café alleyway, up one flight of the stairs to the left of Papa’s. Check facebook.com/cakesandale23 for more info
HCMC On The Town
ASHOKA THINGS CAFE 1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam, Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old Apartment. The quaint and relaxing atmosphere sets for some alone time, or quality conversations held over a drink or two.
17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372; 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant. com
Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
M M M EAT 3T QUAN NUONG VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631 The original, on-the-table barbecue restaurant still goes strong thanks to its rooftop atmosphere, excellent service and even better fish, seafood and meats. An institution. 27 GRILL GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
AL FRESCO’S INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Also has an excellent garden-style branch at 89 Xuan Thuy, Q2.
BABA’S KITCHEN NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
164 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos. Has a delivery outlet in District 2.
AU LAC DO BRAZIL BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to the city's best Churrasco menu with a wide variety of meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through to D-rump steak and smoked hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in Vietnam, passadors bring the meat skewers to your table, and you, the customer then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar. Best washed down with red wine or a caipirinha or five.
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular views, the cuisine at 27 Grill is a real draw, with steaks and other international grillstyle fare in a refined yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and an extensive wine list make up the mix.
barred Thai chefs.
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN
AU PARC EUROPEAN / CAFÉ
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor. BAAN THAI PAN-THAI
55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holds-
BAHDJA 2nd Floor, 27 Le Quy Don, Q3 Tel: 0122 763 1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just above the Thai restaurant Spice, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscousbased dishes. Has a lovely semi-outdoor terrace area.
BIBI@ALIBI 5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The home of legendary French chef Bibi, this convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine uses fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin. Has a daily specials board. BLACK CAT AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river. BLANCHY STREET JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN
The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front. BOAT HOUSE AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790 A revamp has seen this riverside restaurant get a new management and a new menu — think American-style burgers, sliders and Tex-Mex together with soup and salad and you’ll get the idea. Excellent nachos and frozen margaritas. BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment. CAFÉ IF
and curries. CHI’S CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, buildyour-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service. CIAO BELLA NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting. CORIANDER THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 1311 A small, homely Vietnameseowned Thai restaurant that over the past decade has quite rightly gained a strong local and expat following. Try their pad thai — to die for. CORSO STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
ELBOW ROOM AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 177
TOP EATS
RED DOOR FOOD INTERSECTION AND LOUNGE
“W
hat is this sauce?” Red Door owner — and our night’s host — Hien asks. It’s orange — it reminds me of McDonald’s special sauce. But it’s not. It’s pungent in a herbal way, and it lingers longer on our tongues than the clean-tasting shrimp that encircles the top of the lotus salad heap. “It’s lotus seed!” he says. “We use all the parts of the lotus: the seed, the stem, the root. Most places only use the stem. “That’s why we call it ‘lotus-in-lotus’.” The drunken tofu is our second appetiser. Soaked in sake and sprinkled with mixed fruits, it keeps us on our toes. And Hien keeps elaborating on the
philosophy behind the food. “The thing that interests me in Vietnamese food are the layers of taste. There’s a lot of fermentation — fish sauce is fermented, so is shrimp sauce. The whole idea is to keep you from getting bored.” Jumping between tables, dropping insights and little jokes, Hien is an ideal dinner host. And in that way, he makes the idea exchange he wants to foster at Red Door come alive with every unexpected mouthful.
Food for Thought Walking through the space with Hien, we see his ideas made manifest. Straw-centric sculptures — symbols of the past season — haunt the edges of the space. Screens
are in various stages of printing. Do paper hangs from intermittent clips spiraling out from a light bulb, a kind of improvised chandelier. Blocks cover the structural pillar interrupting the terrace, completing the squared-off effect that the rest of the modernist space carries. That’s the effect he was looking for in the redesign of this, his childhood home. The downstairs restaurant space was formerly his family’s living room, and the upstairs salon had been a bedroom. (When I ask what his parents thought of the renovations, Hien says, “They just said, ‘Oh.’”) The salon now holds an upright piano, minimalist artworks and some modular seating for the talks the space is dedicated
Photos by Kyle Phanroy
to. There’s already been an art talk as well as a talk on gender politics. Eventually Hien hopes to expand the concept, bringing in scientists, artists, whoever will heed his call. For now, most of those who come are dinner guests, filling up the 20-odd seats in the downstairs room. On this night it’s not packed but intimate, the conversation flowing along with the mid-range bottles of wine.
The Main Course Our first main is the grilled pork rib in Tay Ninh shrimp salt. The pork rib is fall-offthe-bone scrumptious, the coconut rice ball is delicious on its own. “We try to come up with different kinds of starch,” Hien says. The meat keeps my textural interest
— soft and charred, with the gamey, spicy Tay Ninh shrimp salt filling the grooves. I didn’t know about this shrimp salt variant, but evidently it’s famous. “Tay Ninh has a little manmade lake,” Hien says, “and somehow they invented this famous shrimp salt. But they didn’t have shrimp, they actually had to import them. I think it should be a test case in marketing.” The second main is a chicken clay pot with fermented sweet rice. Despite the fermented accompaniment, this is a light dish. “We wanted a light sweetness from the sweet rice to give it a subtle taste.” Subtle is a word Hien uses a lot. For our dessert, we choose a light option — flan with wild sweet rice fermented in
rice wine. It’s interesting and good. Each bite is fronted by a rice wine kick, which is smoothly overtaken by the calm sweetness of the flan. It keeps our attention. And then, as we get into a discussion on the origins of pho, our eyes settle past the glassed-off wall on the courtyard beyond. Water trickles down a slanted wall into the greenery beneath, around the frangipani tree that’s grown here ever since Hien was a child. And just to the right of this calm scene, a patterned mannequin torso swings like a pendulum in the wind, as good a symbol for Red Door’s twist on the traditional as any. — Ed Weinberg Red Door is at 400/8 Le Van Sy, Q3, HCMC. It’s a call-ahead type of place — 01218 805905. Check facebook.com/reddoorrestaurant for more
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 179
HCMC On The Town
diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains. EL GAUCHO ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2090; 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879; Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A themed eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill. Slick service, a good wine menu, and caramel vodka teasers at the end of the meal. Probably serves up the best steak in town. EON51 FINE DINING TOP-END EUROPEAN / ASIAN
Level 51, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750
eon51.com
Situated on level 51 of the most iconic building in town, Eon51 Fine Dining offers a unique fine dining experience accompanied by unparalleled 3600 picturesque views of Saigon. The sky-high restaurant proffers the taste of Europe in Asia, orchestrated from the finest local foods and top-quality imported ingredients. GANESH NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN
38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service. HOA TUC CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade. HOANG YEN PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101; The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304 If you’re looking for midrange, aircon Vietnamese restaurants that just seem to do every dish perfectly, then Hoang Yen really is the place to go. The atmosphere
180 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
may be a bit sterile, but its amply made up for by the efficient service and excellent cuisine. Now with a number of restaurants around town.
chefs — come from disadvantaged backgrounds and are being trained on the jon in hospitality. Serves up tasty Vietnamese cuisine, to boot!
HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ
L’OLIVIER
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace. INAHO SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 A sushi bar needs a good chef, and the chef-owner of Inaho is one of the best. Sit downstairs at the low-key bar or upstairs in the private VIP rooms. Either way, this is one of the best sushi and sashimi joints in town.
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000. KOH THAI CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION
Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs. KOTO TRAINING RESTAURANT CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
3rd Floor Rooftop, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3822 9357 The restaurant associated with the KOTO vocational training school. All the staff — from bar tenders and waiting staff through to the
intercontinental.com/saigon
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38 250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
If you want to take friends, relatives or people out of town to eat Hue-style street food in a hygienic yet downto-earth environment, Nam Giao is the place. Not only is it well-priced, but the bun bo Hue, bun thit nuong, com hen, banh bot loc and other such dishes are excellent.
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.
CLASSIC FRENCH
KABIN
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
HUE CUISINE
NINETEEN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
LE JARDIN
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent service, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
NAM GIAO
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
Alfrescosgroup.com
MARKET 39
and smoothies.
LA CUISINE
JASPA’S WINE & GRILL The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931
quan nhau, this fan-cooled downtown eating and drinking haunt is famed for two things: it’s on the table, grill-it-yourself bo tung xeo (marinated beef) and oddities such as sautéed scorpion. A great place to take out-of-town guests.
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe. LION CITY SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL COMFORT FOOD 19 – 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail. com
Casual yet stylish, May places international-style wining and dining in the heart of historic Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating, an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this multifloored restaurant and bar. Check out their set lunches and happy hour.
MEKONG MERCHANT INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front. MOGAMBO
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
One of the top three buffet restaurants in town. Although the selection is small, the meats, fishes and seafoods are all fresh, and everything you eat here is quality. OSAKA RAMEN JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 If you fancy dosing out on ramen and soba noodles, then Osaka Ramen is noodle soup heaven. A typically Japanese aircon environment mixes bar-style seating with booths and private dining. Open late. PACHARAN SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
LU BU CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run restaurant bathed in white focuses on wholesome, fresh ingredients, with breads, cheeses, pickles, pastas and preserves made on site daily from scratch. A well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare. Has petanque on the terrace. LUONG SON PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330 A typical Vietnamese-style
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
The longest running expat bar in town, these days Mogambo is more a restaurant than a drinking haunt thanks to its Cajun-inspired, American cuisine; Tex-Mex, excellent burgers, US-style soups and salads. Still furbished as it was 20 years ago. MONSOON PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices
PENDOLASCO PAN-ITALIAN
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8181; 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 282
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Has a second branch in District 2. PIZZA 4P’S EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna
curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties. PROPAGANDA CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO
21 Han Thuyen, Q1 Part of the group that includes Au Parc and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda Art murals and prints.
RIVERSIDE CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets. SAFFRON PAN-MEDITERRANEAN
QUAN BUI TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241; 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality, chicly designed eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery. One of the best Vietnamese restaurants in town. QUAN UT UT US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
It’s a no-brainer, right? American-style barbecue in a contemporary Vietnamese, quan nhau-style setting. Of course it is, which is why Quan Ut Ut is constantly packed with grill-obsessed diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue and Platinum pale ale served on tap. REFINERY FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL
The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
51 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8358 Sporting food from around the Mediterranean rim, this compact and cozy eatery with pots hung from the ceiling is a popular choice with expats and tourists alike. Reservations advised.
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients. SEOUL HOUSE KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
The longest running Korean restaurant in town, with all the Koreans moving out to the hinterland, the clientele here are mainly Vietnamese. Fortunately the food preparation remains traditional. An excellent place for group dining. SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
SAIGON CAFÉ INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
If you like your buffet selections to be big, then here it is gargantuan, with every type of option under the sun. A great place to catch up on your seafood addiction or to pig out over a Sunday brunch.
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events. SKEWERS INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
SAN FU LOU CANTONESE KITCHEN
Ground Floor, AB Building, 76A Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9513
sanfulou.com
Open until 3am, this popular, contemporary Cantonese dining hall mixes contemporary with traditional, in a space that takes Chinese dining in Saigon to a new level. And if you like your dim sum, look no further. SCOTT AND BINH’S INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948 901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/ scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar,
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greekinfluenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room. SHRI CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.
SORAE SUSHI SAKE LOUNGE
Level 24, AB Tower, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: 0938 687689
soraesushi.com
Set over two floors, this astonishing, no-expensespared Japanese restaurant and lounge brings to Saigon the type of environment and ambience you’d expect of New York, Singapore, Hong Kong and Dubai. With the décor comes a modern take on Japanese fare. A place to see and be seen. TAMAGO PAN-JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne. TEMPLE CLUB PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices. THE DECK MODERN ASIAN FUSION
38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.
3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and more bacon, all set in airy, spacious atmosphere, and you get The Hungry Pig, an eatery specialising in anything from the bacon butty through to the bacon Caesar. A popular hangout. TIN NGHIA VEGAN
9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG. VESPER GOURMET LOUNGE INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9698
facebook.com/vespersaigon
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper is a sophisticated yet down-toearth cocktail bar and restaurant with subtle lighting and a great spirit selection. Serves creative, Japanese and German-influenced cuisine to supplement the drinks and has a separate dining space. WRAP & ROLL 62 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971; 226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and bright pastel colours of Wrap ‘n Roll are just part of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand which is all about spring rolls of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. YU CHU TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
THE HUNGRY PIG BACON BAR / CAFE
144 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 181
THE EMPTY WOK ROGAN JOSH WITH BRAISED LAMB
R
ogan josh is a popular Indian dish that can be found on almost every menu in every Indian restaurant around the world. Brimming with the flavours of fennel and ginger, and marked by its striking red colour, it is indeed a celebration of all the senses. Although it’s generally seen as a North Indian dish from Kashmir, rogan josh actually has its roots in Persia. In my version, I’ve added braised lamb to the dish while it is cooking. This allows the lamb to absorb the complex flavours of the sauce. Traditionally no tomatoes are added, not even to enhance colour. Instead, the deep red of the sauce comes from the Kashmiri red chillies, which are not spicy but add the colour. The cooking process is slow, taking an hour and 15 minutes if you are not using a pressure cooker. You can cook rogan josh over the weekend and store it in the
182 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
BY RICCHA ARORA
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
refrigerator for up to 10 days. Trust me, the longer you leave it, the better it tastes.
Ingredients 1kg lamb shank 3 tablespoons of oil or clarified butter 2 inch sticks of cinnamon 6 whole cloves 4 black cardamom 3 green cardamom 2 bay leaves 2 large onions, sliced 1 tablespoon ginger paste 1 tablespoon garlic paste 2 tablespoons of red chilli powder 1 teaspoon of fennel powder 1/2 teaspoon of ginger powder salt to taste 1/2 liter of water
Preparation Add the oil or clarified butter to a non-stick, deep pan used for slow cooking. Heat it and
add the bay leaves, black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon sticks and green cardamom. Next add the sliced onions and sautee until they are slightly golden. Add the ginger and garlic paste and cook for two minutes. Now add the lamb shank and slow cook until the top layer of the meat is white. Add 1/2 a litre of water, salt to taste and stir well. Cover the lid and cook for 35 to 45 minutes. Take the powdered spices — the red chilli powder, fennel powder and ginger powder — put in a bowl and add 1/4 cup of water to make them into a thin paste. Add the spice mix to the lamb, stir well, cover with a lid and cook for 20 minutes or until the meat is tender and you see a top layer of red spiced oil on the dish. This is the signal that your rogan josh is well cooked and ready to be served. Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy Kitchen —facebook.com/arorassassykitchen. You can also check out her website — arorasassykitchen.com
HCMC On The Town
Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.
BANH MI THANH MAI HOANG
ZEUS
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
GREEK / KEBAB
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
164 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 3248 The service is often slow, and the staff are often surprisingly lazy, yet the food here is so good and so unique to this city, that no-one seems to mind. The perfect place to feast out on gyros and all things off a skewer. Cheap, too. ZOOM CAFÉ
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
107 Truong Dinh, Q3 BANH TAM BI TO CHAU BANH TAM
271 Nguyen Trai, Q1
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
BUN CHA HA NOI BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 CHI THONG BUN THIT NUONG / BANH HOI
195 Co Giang, Q1
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures. com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.
COM GA XOI MO SU SU VIETNAMESE FRIED CHICKEN
55 Tu Xuong, Q3
COM TAM 40A COM TAM
40A Quoc Huong, Q2 MI QUANG MY SON MI QUANG
M M M STREET FOOD
38 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 NAM GIAO BUN BO HUE
BA GHIEN
189 Bis Bui Vien, Q1
COM TAM
84 Dang Van Ngu, Phu Nhuan
PHO DAU PHO BO
BA NAM BO KHO
Alleyway to the left of 162 Tran Nhan Tong, Q10
288/M1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 PHO HOA PHO BO & PHO GA
BANH CANH HOANG TY BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943
70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
PHO LE BANH CUON HAI NAM BANH CUON
PHO BO
413-415 Nguyen Trai, Q5
11A Cao Thang, Q3 PHO PHU GIA BANH KHOT CO BA VUNG TAU
PHO BO
146E Ly Chinh Thang, Q3
BANH KHOT
102 Cao Thang, Q3
PHO PHU VUONG PHO BO
BANH MI HONG HOA
339 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh
BANH MI HUYNH HOA
STREET SUSHI
THE LUNCH LADY
At VND120,000 per month (minimum of six months), this is a small price to pay to help those in need.
SUSHI KO 122/37/15 Vinh Khanh, Q4
‘LESBIAN’ BANH MI
26 Le Thi Rieng, Q1
DAILY CHANGING DISHES
BANH MI SAU MINH
23 Hoang Sa, Q1
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
170 Vo Van Tan, Q3
Based north of Mui Ne in Central Vietnam, the foundation provides the children with a home, a family and an education. To help fund this programme, for every copy of our Word you get delivered direct to your door, we will donate VND50,000 to Mai Nha.
VIETNAMESE BANH MI
62 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1
Word has teamed up with the Mai Nha Children Foundation to help 20 orphan children to grow up as a family and prepare for their future.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
To arrange your home delivery, simply email trang@wordvietnam.com
HAINANESE CHICKEN RICE
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751
For more information on Mai Nha, click on mai-nha.org
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 183
TOP EATS MOUNTAIN RETREAT
T
hree-month-old Mountain Retreat is the newest addition to the stable of mom-friendly restaurants such as Secret Garden, Quan Bui and Cuc Gach Quan, which offer simple yet tasty Vietnamese fare in a homey, unpretentious setting. Mountain Retreat’s spin is on northern Vietnamese food, claiming the Ha Giang style’ — at least according to a sign on the way in. It’s the kind of place you’d bring your hygieneobsessed parents to if they came to Saigon and were too afraid to eat street food, but still wanted to sample Vietnamese cuisine.
Located in District 1’s centre, it does a roaring lunchtime trade. Not unlike Secret Garden, Mountain Retreat is somewhat hidden, tucked into an alley off Le Loi. It too is located on the top floor of an unassuming apartment block, just above The Morning Café. It’s so well hidden, in fact, that I needed to ask directions from the parking attendant. The décor of Mountain Retreat seems to be a homage to the rustic mountain dwellings of Ha Giang (or so I’m told), the mountainous area near the Chinese border. The interior is all bamboo-roofing,
faux-mud walls, chicken-wire lampshades and colourful ‘ethnic’ tablecloths. The open terrace doors blow a nice cooling breeze throughout the restaurant, which is important, because as I discovered, things were about to get spicy.
The Meal We ordered a selection of traditional Vietnamese eats, only glancing at a decent wine list which won’t break the bank (a bottle of Chardonnay costs VND350,000). First up was my personal favourite, banh xeo (VND75,000), which translates as
Photos by Francis Xavier
sizzling cake. Mountain Retreat’s offering was surprisingly buttery and creamy, but still consistent enough for us to wrap it in salad leaves and dip it in a pleasantly tangy chilli sauce. This was followed by ba roi chien gion (VND65,000): melt-in-themouth, deep-fried bacon strips which had just the right amount of crunch, as well as a comfortingly fatty aftertaste — like all good bacon should! The plate was garnished with slightly pickled cabbage, which also went down a treat. Next up were hen xuc banh da (VND75,000): reassuringly spicy baby
clams mixed with chilli and herbs, which we scooped up with rice crackers. The burst of spiciness is due to a mix of fermented shrimp sauce, ground black pepper, coriander, shallots and red peppers. The ever-eloquent Ed Weinberg described this simple but flavourful dish as being “freakin’ scrumptious”. A bowl of crunchy garlic rice (VND75,000) provided accompaniment. Finally we tucked into some trung cut bac hoa (VND75,000), which was the only slightly disappointing dish: fried quail eggs wrapped in fish cake paste
and rice flakes, which were a little dry, leading to a slightly underwhelming end to an otherwise very decent meal. Lunch for three people came to VND477,000, including copious amounts of ‘fancy’ tra da: the kind that’s served with an actual tea leaf inside the glass. In all, Mountain Retreat might not be the go-to standard for classy, traditional Vietnamese food, but it is a solid option for a pleasant meal in District 1, especially if your mom is in town. — Kieran Crowe Mountain Retreat is on the top floor of 36 Le Loi, Q1, HCMC. Enter through the alley
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 185
BRIDALWEAR 3 Thang 2 C1
PAINTINGS Tran Phu D1 Bui Vien D3
CAMERAS Ton That Thiep C4
CAC H
ung Hoa H
A NG
C
3
District 11 2km
Ban h
A
Min
2 NG THA
Ba n
hQ uy
en
Ng
DIE
LY THA I
G HT HAN
AU HI S T O
Ch uo i
Vuon Chuoi Market
Tha n
g
Co
hie hC
uye n
u Ng
Thi en Thu at
u
in nD ye
a nH So en uy g N
TO
NG
EN UY
AI KH NH I I M Chanh
TH am Viet Ph
g
Teacher Training University
CU VAN
U PH AN R T
YEN
SPORTSWEAR Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3
G HUN
University of Natural Sciences
NG VUO
N GU
D
LY CHI N
V
Ca o
Tra n
Quan
Tho ng
Vu on
G VUON UONG AN D
STATIONERY Nguyen Dinh Chieu B3
yen
Bieu
Binh
g Tron
E
DISTRICT 5 n Trai Ng u y e
Tran
Binh Tay Market 3km
Ngu
WEDDING SERVICES Nguyen Dinh Chieu D1
t n Da
186 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
TAM
Than h
DISTRICT 10
h Ma H uyn
GUITARS Nguyen Thien Thuat D1, D2
Ng u yen
Tron
FLOWERS Le Thanh Ton C4
Miinnh Quye n
uyen
Binh
FABRICS Hai Ba Trung A3
KH OI NG HI
Diinnh
Tran
EVERYTHING Ben Thanh Market C4
nh Van
Tran
Lan Anh Sports & Leisure Club
NG
SHOES Nguyen Dinh Chieu C1, C2 Luu Van Lang C4
KY
ong
MA N G TH
PHO
COOKING INGREDIENTS Ham Nghi C4, C5
H uy
Saigon Train Station
Miinnh Quye n
Tan Binh 0.5km
ng
SEAFOOD Vinh Khanh D4, D5
NG
Thao
Truo ng
ONG LE H
COMPUTERS Ton That Tung C2, C3
Quoc
Ba H
han To
SAFES Vo Van Tan C3
NA M
Ky D
B Tran
Tran
Tran Van Danngg
PLAQUES Nam Quoc Cang C2, D2
CAR COMPONENTS Tran Quang Khai A3 Ky Con C4, D4
PHU
ROI
PH U
MOTORBIKES Ly Tu Trong C3
YEN VAN T
INH
Le V an S y
N
BIKE MAINTENANCE Nguyen Du C3
Huy uynh nh Vaann Banh
BI E N
LUGGAGE Le Lai C3, C4
N GU
2
PHA ND
ien gH on hu
ARMY SURPLUS Dan Sinh Market D4
uy
anh Th
JAPANESE RESTAURANTS Le Thanh Ton B4, B5
h
Do
ANTIQUES Le Cong Kieu C4
in Ch
T en uy Ng
A2 A4 A5 C4, D4 B3, B4 C2, C3 D4, E4 A3 B5 B5, C5 C4 D5, E5 B5, C5 C4, C5 C4 C2, C3 D1, E1, E2 D2 B4 D2, D3 D3, E1, E2 A1, B1 A3 A2 B1, C1 D1 A3 D1 A2, A3 B1, B2, B3 A2, B2 B1 B2, B3, C3 B3 A4, A5 B2 E3, E4, E5 D4, D5 A3, B2, B3 B3, C2 C2 A5 E5 C4, D4
Ng
D en
Tran Huy LLiieeuu
Phan Dinh Phung Phan Ke Binh Phan Van Han Pho Duc Chinh Phung Khac Khoan Suong Nguyet Anh Tan Vinh Thach Thi Thanh Thai Van Lung Thi Sach Thu Khoa Huan Ton Dan Ton Duc Thang Ton That Dam Ton That Thiep Ton That Tung Tran Binh Trong Tran Canh Chan Tran Cao Van Tran Dinh Xu Tran Hung Dao Tran Huy Lieu Tran Khac Chan Tran Khanh Du Tran Minh Quyen Tran Nhan Tong Tran Nhat Duat Tran Phu Tran Quang Khai Tran Quoc Thao Tran Quoc Toan Tran Van Dang Truong Dinh Truong Quyen Truong Sa Tu Xuong Vinh Hoi Vinh Khanh Vo Thi Sau Vo Van Tan Vuon Chuoi Xo Viet Nghe Tinh Xom Chieu Yersin
Tran N
3 Thang 2 C1 Alexandre de Rhodes B4 An Duong Vuong D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan B2, C3 Ban Co C1 Ben Chuong Duong D3, D4, E2, E3 Ben Van Don D4, D5, E3 Bui Thi Xuan C3 Bui Vien D3 Cach Mang Thang Tam B1, C2, C3 Calmette C4 Calmette D4 Cao Ba Nha D3 Cao Thang C1, C2, D2 Chu Manh Trinh B4, B5 Co Bac D3 Co Giang D3, D4 Cong Quynh D3 De Tham C3, D3 Dien Bien Phu A4, B3, C1, C2 Dinh Cong Trang A3 Dinh Tien Hoang A4, B4 Do Quang Dau D3 Do Thanh C1 Doan Nhu Hai D5 Doan Van Bo D5 Dong Du C5 Dong Khoi B4, C4, C5 Hai Ba Trung A2, A3, B3, B5, C5 Hai Trieu C5 Ham Nghi C4 Han Thuyen B4 Ho Hao Hon D3 Ho Tung Mau C4, C5 Ho Xuan Huong C2 Hoa Hung B1 Hoang Dieu D4, D5, E3 Hoang Sa A4, A5 Huyen Tran Cong Chua C3 Huynh Man Dat Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Man Dat Dist. 5 E1 Huynh Thuc Khang C4 Huynh TinH Cua Binh Thanh A5 Huynh Tinh Cua Dist. 3 A2 Huynh Van Banh A1, A2 Khanh Hoi D4, E4 Ky Con C4, D4 Ky Dong B2 Le Cong Kieu C4 Le Duan B4, B5 Le Hong Phong D1 Le Lai C3 Le Loi C4 Le Quoc Hung D4, D5 Le Quy Don B3 Le Thanh Ton B4, B5, C3, C4 Le Thi Hong Gam C4, D4 Le Thi Rieng C3 Le Van Sy A1 Luong Huu Khanh C2 Luu Van Lang C4 Ly Chinh Thang B2 Ly Thai To D1 Ly Tu Trong B4, B5, C3, C4 Mac Dinh Chi B4 Mac Thi Buoi C5 Mai Thi Luu A4 Me Linh A5 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia A2, B3, C4 Ngo Duc Ke C5 Ngo Thoi Nhiem B2, B3, C2
Ngo Van Nam B5 Nguyen Bieu E2 Nguyen Binh Khiem A4, B5 Nguyen Cong Tru C4, C5, D4 Nguyen Cu Trinh D2, D3 Nguyen Dinh Chieu A4, B4, C2, C3, D1 Nguyen Dinh Chinh A1 Nguyen Du B4, C3 Nguyen Gia Thieu B3 Nguyen Hue C4, C5 Nguyen Huu Canh B5 Nguyen Huu Cau A3 Nguyen Huy Tu A4 Nguyen Khac Nhu D3 Nguyen Khoai E3 Nguyen Ngoc Phuong A5 Nguyen Phi Khanh A3 Nguyen Sieu B5, C4, C5 Nguyen Son Ha C2 Nguyen Tat Thanh D5 Nguyen Thai Binh C4, D4 Nguyen Thai Hoc C3, D3 Nguyen Thi Dieu C2, C3 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai A5, B3, B4, C2, C3, D2 Nguyen Thien Thuat C1 Nguyen Thong B1, B2 Nguyen Thuong Hien C2 Nguyen Trai C3, D2, E1 Nguyen Trung Truc C4 Nguyen Truong To D5 Nguyen Van Cu D2, E2 Nguyen Van Lac A5 Nguyen Van Mai A2 Nguyen Van Nguyen A2 Nguyen Van Thu A4, B3, B4 Nguyen Van Troi A1 Pasteur B3, B4 Pasteur C4 Pham Hong Thai C3 Pham Ngoc Thach B3 Pham Ngu Lao C3, D3 Pham Viet Chanh D2
inh
1 PHU NHUAN A
yen Ngu
Tran Huy LLiieeuu
HCMC Map
Airport 3km h Chiinn Diinnh
NG DAO
U TRAN H
AU HI S T O
P ha m
c Tran QQuuooc
Toaann To
DISTRICT 3 NA M
m hie iN
ong Xu
D
IEN
HU NP BIE
ho oT Ng
hie iN
H
Tru ong
m
nD ye
nT ye gu
MANN G TH
TAM
Ng
u
ng Din h
Th u
Ng Kh oa
Hua
ong u Tr Ly T
h han Le T
n
uy
Lu
u
I LO LE
ghiieep uan N
Do ng
oD
Tr Hai
en Nguy
Cong
u
Kh
oi
e cK
ieu
Tru Tr
N GU
Don Van
NNEL THU THIEM TU
To ong Tru
H un g
N Doan
i hu Ha
g Hoan
NH THA TAT
y en
Le Q uoc
VinaExpress - The Hydrofoil Service
YEN
Ng u
Nh a
i
Vung Tau
Diieeu
nh ha hK
Ba
HAM NGGHHI
Sa ch
Ho H
Ng
Ton Duc Thang Museum
Du
o Bu
HU E
n Na m
Vin
Ca o
UY EN
B en
Doa nV an B ng
u D ie
u D ie
h Vin Tan
Don Van
NG
i Th
& Highway 1 3km
r teu Pa s
Tra i
hang uc K h Th
g uon
oi hH an
B en
T
Ngo V a
am
ng D huo en C
Kh
ong
i hoa
C
Du
ng Hoa
nK
B en
ng huo
t ha
p hie
c Ma
tD
Cong KKiieeuu Le Cong
Hoa
uy e
ua
ng Do
Tha
inh
Dan Sinh Market ru g T Ky C o on Cn n e guy
B
Huyn
HIA
B hai
T Ton
g
Ng
Ch
N
EN UY
on hT
ieu nS y e Th gu i
G
NG
TH AN G
Tha iV an Lu ng
h
Ng u yen
h
Vinh
Cha n
An at Ph
an Th Le
in Ch
ian
Tri nh
Opera House
n To
UC
NH CA U HU Saigon Bridge
uc
n
oi
TR UN
Zoo & Botanical Gardens UY EN BIN HK HIE M
te
Ho
BA
et lm Ca
Co
Kh
ang nL Va
n
Bac Co hu
Ha o
G Co
Xu
N ng G ia
nT uy e
si Yer
Dinh
A GD UN
gu ye nK ha cN
am
Ng
HA I
an Th Le
am Th De
Ho
H
G ng
uM anh
TO ND
ng Tro Tu Ly
Tru c
Ben Thanh Market
C HO
AN TRN
en
DISTRICT 1
en Tru ng
Ton
o hi H eT
AI TH
O
Tr Trinh
L
EN UY
en Cu
en
NG
m Tha De
u Da ng
i Bui V
en uy
st eur
Saigon Bus Station
23/99 Park 23/ 23
a Qu
Thai Binh Market Con gQ u yn h
uy
Du
Du
Do ng
Pa
PHA AM M HHOONG TTHHA AII
ao Ngu L Pham
ang
Tra n
Can h
Duc Ba
i Tra
i Le La
N UA
Central Post Office
NG HOI
N
D LE
Re-unification Palace
Le Thhii RRiieenng
en g uy
HTV Television
Chi
N UA Cathedral ED
i Le La Tun g
IM
NG
Ton
an Xu hi iT
e
es od Rh
Huy en
en D
TH
I HA
au gM Tun
Bu
Nguy
Tran
NH
AI KH
Tru o y Ngu
nh
NG
EN UY
K INH
Ho
A et uy Ng
Ma cD inh
an oV
L 30 Thang 4 yen u Park Han Th
Tra nC ong Labour Culture Chu HCMC Palace a Conservatory of Music
n
u
Ng
d re nd xa Ale
Do
Cao T hang
cC
ua
A
Tan
MI
Hoa Lu Stadium
G
st eur
KH OI NG HI
I TH
Tra
a nC
KH IEM
Ch
Tao Dan Park
Kha nh
Quo
NG
EN UY
RU NG
en
OA N
K KY
Huu
Na m
n Va Vo
h
n
uy
BIN H
oD Ph
Luo ng
Th at
cT hao
hac
BA T
Ng
hie hC Din
Lu u
NAM
g on Su
War Remnants Museum
in
u Ng Ba Huy e u n Tha nh Die hi Q
A NG
KY
u hie hC
Tan
Ton
Quo
Ng uy en Gia Th ieu
Din h
g on Hu an u oX
CAC H
n Va Vo
Tra n
ho o TL Ng e Qu yD on
Pa
cT
Kh ac Kh oa
en
NH
hu nT
hi
inh
o
District 7 & Nha Be Kha nh
DISTRICT 4 Ton D an
Tu
Ng o
HA I
uy
TIE
eB
XO
Saigon South 4km
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 187
Ch ieu
V
Qu yen
Ng
Va
P ha nK
NG UY EN
Xo m
Tru ong
st eur
DIN H
Le Van Tam Park U PH IEN B Phu N ng DIE
uo c
nQ Tra
Pa
AU HI S T O
Ma iT
Han Huynnhh M Maan Dat
V
uc
H o an g Sa
UC TH ANG
hanh
Toa n
Cua
Thi T
uy Tu
INH E TPhan Van
TON D
c Chan Ca u
on hC Di n
ng ra gT
nH
GH TN E I V
g on
RUN G
Ph
uy e
TON DUC T HANG
AT
Ng uy en Hu u
M
an
Ng
u Ph
an
Ly V Thac h
Truoonng Sa
Hooaang Sa Sa
c go
V en uy Ng
Hi AI a B
Phan Va Van an Ha Han
N en
Quaanng Khaaii Tran Qu Tan Dinh Market
5 BINH THANH
N
U PH
uy
in h
ran QQuuaanng Khaaii Tra TTr Ngguyen PPhhi Khanh N
DIE
N BIE
Ng
hT
a Tran Kh
uy en
NG HA HT
N CHI LY Huyn
DDuuat
t Tran Nhaat
Ng
3
DDIINH TIEN HO HOANG
Ng uy en Va n
Du Traann KKhhaannnhh
4
Gia Dinh Hospital 1.5km
Tiêng Viêt
Một Ngày Để Nhớ
L
ễ hội ASEAN Pride 2015: Tôn Vinh Gia Đình không được xếp hạng là một trong số các lễ hội âm nhạc lớn trong khu vực Đông Nam Á. Nhưng nó nổi bật như một ngọn đuốc cho giới đồng tính, lưỡng tính và chuyển giới. Đó là ý kiến của Dan Dockery, người đồng sáng lập CAMA và là người giúp tổ chức sự kiện này. Diễn ra tại The American Club vào ngày 19/6, lễ hội ASEAN năm nay kết hợp âm nhạc và các hoạt động nghệ thuật. Cả hai đều được sử dụng cho
188 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
một lễ kỷ niệm chung của cộng đồng LGBT và kỷ niệm 20 năm quan hệ ngoại giao giữa Việt Nam và Hoa Kỳ. Trong khi sự kiện năm ngoái tập trung vào tự do ngôn luận, năm nay tổ chức nhằm tôn vinh vị trí của các cá nhân LGBT trong gia đình. "Ở Mỹ, người ta khác nhau do những yếu tố kiến tạo một gia đình. Yếu tố kiến tạo một gia đình là tình yêu… Cùng với đó là việc gia đình chấp nhận các bạn là ai", Đại sứ Mỹ tại Việt Nam Ted Osius cho biết, xuất
hiện trên sân khấu với chồng mình là Clayton Bond.
Nơi Trú Ẩn An Toàn
Ẩn mình bên ngoài khu vực trình diễn âm nhạc, một tá các tổ chức tụ tập quanh các bàn trong một chiếc lều để truyền bá nhận thức về giới tính, quyền giới tính, tình dục an toàn và các vấn đề khác. Các tổ chức intiMate Initiative, Viet Pride, the Institute for Studies of Society, Economy and Environment (iSEE), Adopt an HIV Child, tạp chí
Lễ hội ASEAN PRIDE năm nay đã tận dụng hết tất cả các nguồn tài nguyên nó có. Nó thậm chí còn được xem như là “một lễ hội âm nhạc'
Hình ảnh: Trung Del
Hanoi Panic cùng những tổ chức khác phát tờ rơi và sticker, và trả lời câu hỏi của du khách. Tuy nhiên ASEAN Pride còn hơn là một bữa tiệc. Bởi bản chất của nó, sự kiện này là một cái gì đó có ý nghĩa cho tất cả những người LGBT đã bước qua cánh cửa công khai. Theo Phạm Vũ Ngọc Huyền, người đã giúp điều hành Việt Pride, lễ hội là một nơi trú ẩn an toàn cho những người đã phải đối mặt với những cái nhìn chằm chằm, nói xấu, sự thiếu hiểu biết, ánh mắt khinh bỉ và
điều đó sẽ tồi tệ hơn khi họ công khai với thế giới bên ngoài. Anh, một kỹ sư xây dựng sống ở Hà Nội, nói thêm: "[ASEAN Pride] có vai trò quan trọng đối với những người trẻ bởi vì khi tâm lý họ không ổn định họ có thể tìm thấy một số hỗ trợ. Tôi cảm thấy rất thoải mái ở đây. Những người xung quanh ai cũng giống như tôi."
Âm Nhạc
Thảo và ban nhạc indie folk The Get Down Stay từ San Francisco đã trình
diễn những giai điệu ồn ã và chân thật của mình. Ca sỹ chính của nhóm là Thảo Nguyễn, người được sinh ra ở Mỹ, đã đến thăm Việt Nam lần đầu tiên. Tô Lâm & nhóm The Mix, những người đã tham dự cuộc thi Vietnam’s Got Talent, đã biểu diễn những bản nhạc pop như S&M của Rhianna với vũ đạo sắc nét, múa roi và kim tuyến long lanh. Các nghệ sỹ khác bao gồm Yellow Fang của Thái Lan, ca sĩ Hương Giang Idol và OJ Law của Malaysia. — Annalise Frank
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 189
Tiêng Viêt
Lê Văn Sẽ và Nguyễn Thị Lợi
Hình ảnh được cung cấp bởi Réhahn Photography
Ô
ng Sẽ đã 91 tuổi, và vợ ông thì cũng đã 83. Họ đã ở với nhau được 63 năm. Ông là tình yêu đầu tiên cũng là duy nhất của bà, khi bà mới 21 tuổi. Họ cùng được sinh ra ở một làng quê nông thôn của Trà Quế, nơi cung cấp rau xanh và củ quả chính cho Hội An. Mặc dù Trà Quế là một phần của Hội An, nhưng đối với hai ông bà nó là một nơi khác — nó là làng của họ.
Bức Ảnh Đầu Tiên
Tôi gặp họ lần đầu tiên vào năm 2011. Khi ông đang làm việc trên đồng, tôi trông thấy ông và hỏi xin liệu có thể chụp hình ông. Ông cười hiền lành và tạo dáng cho tôi chụp. Sau những bức ảnh này, ông mời tôi về nhà để uống trà và gặp vợ ông. Tôi sẽ luôn nhớ mãi cái ấm áp chào đón khách của cặp vợ chồng đẹp đẽ này. Sau khi hỏi rất nhiều về cuộc sống
190 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
của tôi, tôi bắt đầu hỏi ngược về họ. Và câu chuyện về họ thật đau lòng.
Những Cuộc Chiến
Trong cuộc chiến tranh Đông Dương, ông bị quân đội Pháp bắt giam và bị tra tấn trong 10 tháng tại Lào vì đã cung cấp lương thực cho Việt Cộng. Vào thời điểm đó quân đội Pháp đã tin rằng ông là một phần của Việt Cộng, nhưng một khi họ nhận thấy ông không phải, họ thả ông về nhà. Thật không may, vận xui của ông đã không dừng ở đó. Trong chiến tranh chống Mỹ, ông lại một lần nữa bị bắt — lần này là quân đội Mỹ, họ bỏ tù ông 6 tháng trong một nhà tù quân đội ở Hội An, cho việc (một lần nữa) cung cấp lương thực cho Việt Cộng. Trong khi đó, bà Lợi là một sĩ quan của quân giải phóng, và đã bị quân đội Mỹ giam bốn tháng. Ông Sẽ mất hai người em trai trong chiến tranh chống Mỹ. Tôi hỏi liệu ông có căm thù người Pháp
và người Mỹ, ông trả lời rằng ông đang sống trong hòa bình và với độ tuổi của ông hiện nay, ông chọn phương cách tha thứ cho những gì đã xảy ra.
Tuổi Hưu An Bình
Ông Sẽ thức dậy lúc 5 giờ mỗi sáng để ra đồng và bán rau quả của mình ngoài chợ. Không một ngày nào thiếu vắng bóng ông trên cánh đồng. Họ cũng được nhận lương hưu cho việc giúp đỡ đất nước trong lúc chiến tranh. Họ có với nhau năm mặt con, nhưng buồn thay ba người đã mất. Ông Sẽ là người lớn tuổi nhất trong làng Trà Quế và được kính trọng nhất. Tôi gặp ông mỗi ngày, và cho họ sách của mình khi họ có chuyến đi hiếm hoi tới Hội An, ghé thăm phòng trưng bày của tôi. Họ sẽ mãi ở trong tim tôi. Phòng trưng bày Couleurs d’Asie của Réhahn nằm ở 7 Nguyễn Huệ, Hội An. Để xem thêm ảnh chân dung của Réhahn, xin ghé facebook.com/ Rehahn.Photography
Chiến Dịch Gây Quỹ của School On the Boat School On the Boat là một tổ chức phi chính phủ tại Hà Nội, cam kết đóng góp cho hạnh phúc và thành công trong học tập của trẻ em có hoàn cảnh khó khăn. Đối tượng hưởng lợi từ công việc của họ là những gia đình sống trên thuyền mà trẻ em không được tiếp cận với giáo dục. Trong một nỗ lực để mở rộng hoạt động của mình, School On the Boat đã phát động một chiến dịch gây 7.000 USD (tương đương 153 triệu đồng) từ 1/6, dùng để thuê một nhân viên xã hội trong 12 tháng. Nhân viên xã hội này sẽ là nhân viên toàn thời gian của của tổ chức phi chính phủ School on the Boat. Chiến dịch này sẽ tiếp tục cho đến ngày 31/8. Vì vậy, việc giúp tổ chức này đạt được mục tiêu của họ cũng là giúp đỡ người nghèo. Đơn giản chỉ cần nhấp chuột vào youcaring.com/redriver-children và thực hiện lời hứa của mình. Để biết thêm về School on the Boat, xin vào schoolontheboat.fr
TRIỂN LÃM “ONE COUNTRY”
Phòng tranh Craig Thomas, Q1, HCMC Cho đến 25/7
Hình ảnh: Jakub Žák
Phòng tranh Craig Thomas đang kỷ niệm lần thứ sáu với triển lãm One Country, một cuộc triển lãm nhóm gồm các tác phẩm của 15 nghệ sĩ trẻ Việt Nam. Ba học viện mỹ thuật nổi bật nhất của Việt Nam được đặt tại Hà Nội, Huế và thành phố Hồ Chí Minh. Các nghệ sỹ tham vọng có xu hướng vào học viện gần quê của mình và tiếp tục sự nghiệp của họ ở một trong ba thành phố sau khi tốt nghiệp. Kết quả là nghệ thuật Việt Nam bị chia rẽ dẫn đến số lượng nghệ sỹ được biết đến ít hơn số thực tại. Năm 2011, phòng tranh Craig Thomas đã bắt đầu kết hợp các nghệ sĩ trẻ Hà Nội vào chương trình triển lãm thường xuyên của họ. Nhằm góp phần vào việc tạo ra một khung cảnh nghệ thuật Việt duy nhất, phòng tranh hiện đang tích hợp các tác phẩm của các nghệ sĩ Huế vào chương trình trong những năm tháng tới. Bộ sưu tập One Country — gồm các tác phẩm của các nghệ sĩ làm việc tại tất cả ba thành phố lớn — là sự khởi đầu của quá trình đó. Craig Thomas Gallery nằm tại 27i Trần Nhật Duật, Q1 hoặc xin vào cthomasgallery. com
ZEDD: CHUYẾN LƯU DIỄN TRUE COLORS Sân Golf Rạch Chiếc, Q2, HCMC Thứ Sáu 7/8
Hamleys Vào Việt Nam Hãng đồ chơi nổi tiếng thế giới của Anh, Hamleys, sẽ khai trương cửa hàng đầu tiên ở Việt Nam vào mùa hè này tại VivoCity. Được thành lập vào năm 1760, cửa hàng hai tầng diện tích 800m2 sẽ là cửa hàng đồ chơi lớn nhất Việt Nam. Bao gồm hàng ngàn sản phẩm chất lượng có độ an toàn cao được chứng nhận, và tất cả các thiết kế mang tính biểu tượng của Hamley được nhập khẩu gồm đồ chơi thật cho trẻ em thử tại chỗ và mô hình đồ chơi tại cửa hàng, mong đợi sự xuất hiện của cửa hàng mua sắm này sẽ làm nóng lên thị trường đồ chơi tại Việt Nam. Với tiêu chí an toàn cùng chất lượng cao cho đồ chơi, theo Jade Lê, đại diện Hamleys Việt Nam, các đồ chơi của Hamleys được bán ở đây sẽ tương tự như ở London, nhưng sẽ được điều chỉnh một chút theo thị trường địa phương. "Các khách hàng sẽ có thể tìm thấy một loạt
các sản phẩm được thiết kế độc quyền cho Hamleys," cô nói, "cũng như một loạt các lựa chọn cẩn thận từ các thương hiệu quốc tế để hoàn thành bộ hỗn hợp sản phẩm của chúng tôi." Cô nói thêm: "[Chúng tôi đang nhắm mục tiêu vào người tiêu dùng] ở các độ tuổi, từ trẻ đến già — cuối cùng, tất cả mọi người đều là một đứa trẻ và chúng tôi tin rằng tuổi tác không phải là vấn đề — mỗi người bước vào Hamleys sẽ hài lòng với các sản phẩm và trải nghiệm tại cửa hàng. " Nóng lòng chờ đợi sự xuất hiện của tất cả sản phẩm từ những sản phẩm đơn giản như yoyo hay văn phòng phẩm mang tính biểu tượng Anh, bạt lò xo hoặc thậm chí máy bay không người lái. Để biết thêm thông tin, xin vào facebook.com/ hamleysvietnam hoặc truy cập hamleys.com.vn. VivoCity là tại 1058 Nguyễn Văn Linh, Q7, TP HCM
Zedd là một Dj kiêm nhà sản xuất nhạc, là nghệ sỹ có sản phẩm âm nhạc được bán ra đạt đĩa bạch kim, cùng là người đoạt giải Grammy cho thu âm nhạc dance xuất sắc nhất. Và anh sắp đến thành phố. Biểu diễn tại địa điểm có một không hai của một sân golf, lần biểu diễn này của Zedd nằm trong một phần của chuyến lưu diễn True Colors ở Châu Á, tiếp theo anh sẽ đến Philippines, Thái Lan và Nhật Bản. Với bản pop electro trance thiên tài Beautiful Now, chúng tôi tự tin sự kiện này sẽ thu hút đông người tham dự. Vé vào cửa khu vực thông thường là 550,000 đồng, vé khu vực VIP chưa được phát hành. Đây hứa hẹn sẽ là một sự kiện lớn. Vì vậy, nên đặt vé trước. Để biết thêm thông tin, xin vào zeddhcmc.com
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 191
The Final Say NLF (Viet Cong) guerillas, Tay Nguyen — 1963, photographed by Wilfred Burchett
192 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
Action on the Plains On the night of May 18, 1960, a group of army officers and their bodyguard entered a Chinese soup restaurant in Mo Duc on the coastal plains of Quang Ngai. They brushed past the diners and passed through to the apartment in the rear. After a few exchanges in low voices with an attendant and the production of a document, they were ushered into a spacious office that seemed to have little in common with the needs of a Chinese restaurant. Seated at a desk was a ponderous Vietnamese with a thin line of moustache that continued over his upper lip, down the sides of his mouth to the chin. Respectful salutes from the officers, a grunted greeting in reply. In ten minutes, the group moved out by an elaborate rear entrance to the road leading out of the town. With them was the man behind the desk. After they had walked in silence for a while, one officer pulled out a revolver and pointed it at the ‘restaurant proprietor’. “In the name of patriotic officers of the Government’s armed forces,” said the officer, in a voice tinged with steel, “you, Chan, have been sentenced to death for crimes against the people of Vietnam. Sentence will be executed immediately.” And before another word could be spoken, he fired a bullet into the fat man’s head. The body
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
The Inside Story of the Guerrilla War Chapter 10: Breaking the Grip For the next six issues, Word is presenting excerpts from Wilfred Burchett’s seminal account of the American War. A close friend of Ho Chi Minh, Burchett was the only westerner to be embedded with the Viet Cong frontlines in the early 1960s. This work was written in 1964 Wilfred Burchett in Tay Nguyen — late 1963
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 193
slumped to the road and was pulled away to the side, while someone affixed to it a slip of paper. The officer and a small group hurried back to the restaurant, this time entering from the back entrance. With keys taken from the body, they opened a large, black safe, filled with documents, which they glanced at and stuffed into a nylon bag. There was a momentary gasp of horror when they pulled out one large drawer and found it full of human ears, in each case the left ear only, and stapled to each a paper with a name and a receipt for 5,000 piastres. “They were the ears of 482 of our comrades,” said Sao Nam, the officer who conducted the operation. “Chan, the tyrant we executed, was Ngo Dinh Can’s special agent in charge of secret police in the provinces of Quang Ngai, Quang Nam and Binh Dinh. The restaurant was a blind for his activities. For each of our comrades killed, he received 5,000 piastres after forwarding the right ear as proof. “We had a rich haul that night, all the names of those marked down for arrest and killing and the names of a whole network of agents working under Chan. We were able to warn all those on his lists and arrest his agents or frighten them into inactivity.” Execution of agents like Chan had become policy after the decision was taken to support the tribespeople by starting resistance by ‘armed propaganda groups’ in the plains. The form of ‘armed propaganda groups’ had been started in 1944 by Vo Nguyen Giap and Pham Van Dong, now prime minister of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam (North Vietnam). The first unit of 84 men then grew into the powerful army that Giap used with such success 10 years later to defeat the French. It was this form that was adopted as the main weapon in the politico-military struggle to which Sao Nam and his group, and an increasing number of similar groups in other provinces, were now committed. It was not easy to start armed resistance Original typed notes
194 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
on the plains, where enemy control was almost complete. Only a handful of the resistance cadre had survived the Diem terror, by fleeing to the mountains. But as word spread on the plains of the extermination campaign against the tribespeople on the mountainsides, the people’s anger and hatred rose. Sao Nam told me of how the Vietnamese cadre in the province of Quang Ngai came to adopt the new policy of armed resistance. At first, in the latter part of 1959, they decided to launch a movement of ‘non-cooperation’ against the Diemist administration to take some heat off the tribespeople. Towards the end of the year, the Diemists planned a new, all-out campaign to crush the uprising of the mountain people once and for all, bringing in troops and militia from the neighbouring provinces; they could do this because Quang Ngai was the only place in Central Vietnam where there was any armed resistance. “We had another meeting, a very serious one this time,” continued Sao Nam. “Due to the repression aimed primarily at crushing the Kor, other tribes and districts had taken to arms, all the mountain districts in fact. The policy of peaceful struggle had crumbled in Quang Ngai because the enemy had consistently applied non-provoked violence. We had done our best to keep to the line and many of us felt we should still stick to strictly legal struggle. But we could do nothing to halt what the people themselves had started spontaneously. If the Vietnamese in the plains did not come in with their support, the tribespeople might well be exterminated. “We took the extremely serious decision to constitute ourselves as a ‘resistance committee’; to support the armed action already started by the tribes people to base ourselves in the mountains, but also to try and penetrate the plains from our mountain bases… If we did not support the tribespeople, who had helped us so magnificently in the first resistance, our prestige and that of the revolution would be
lost forever.” This decision of Sao Nam and his comrades was the starting point of the ‘two- sided war’. It was the first such decision taken at that sort of level, and it had widespread repercussions. The example of the Kor tribespeople and the support it finally received from Vietnamese cadres was later used as a decisive argument in generalizing armed resistance throughout South Vietnam. Quang Ngai, home province of Pham Van Dong, has long revolutionary traditions; the people do not bow their heads easily, but the Vietnamese in the plains at least seemed to have been in black despair by the end of 1959. I heard of one incident, however, that illustrates their spirit. October 26, 1959, was celebrated by the Diemists as National Day. A military parade was organised, troops in their best spit-andpolish uniforms, tanks, artillery and planes overhead. The local military chief made a big speech comparing the splendidly equipped troops of President Ngo Dinh Diem to the ragged groups of Viet Cong guerillas. An old man walked up to the tribune, and in front of the beaming military chief said: “The governor is quite right. I agree with him. The Viet Cong are miserably off compared with the Nationalists. They have nothing to eat, only potatoes and manioc; the Nationalists have plenty of rice, bread and meat. The Viet Cong are dressed in rags. Look at the splendid uniforms of the Nationalists. The Viet Cong don’t even have decent weapons. Look at the weapons here, all the splendid American guns, tanks and planes. The only thing in which the Nationalists are not better is that they serve in a foreign army, while the Viet Cong fight against the foreigners who invade our country. After a battle, the Viet Cong help the population, but the Nationalists only bum and steal.” The military chief had shut him up at this stage, trying to laugh; and shouting, “The old man is mad,” pushed him off the tribune.
Campfire, Tay Nguyen, 1963
Police shoved forward to arrest him but the crowd closed in and managed to smuggle him away. Later he made his way to the mountains. “Why on earth did you do that?” asked one of the Vietnamese cadres. “I saw everyone was depressed, demoralized with all those tanks and guns,” the old fellow replied, “so I thought I’d put a few facts straight for them. I’m old now. If anything happens to me it is of no importance. But we should keep people’s spirits up.”
Sentence and Execution People on the plains had been so terrorized that at first they trusted no one. “When we started, we lost some cadres,” Sao Nam told me, “and it was almost impossible to make contact with the population. While such a terrorist machine continued to control their daily activities it would be impossible to do anything. We decided it was necessary to break the grip of the enemy; to wipe out the worst of the Diemist agents and to make strong attacks against selected posts. Once we started doing this, a new light came into people’s eyes, confidence returned.” To my question as to what was the actual
form of sentence and execution, Sao Nam explained that the situation in every village was first carefully studied; the activities of the local agents, the extent of their crimes. “You could be certain that the handpicked chief agents were always responsible for multiple murders, but we did not mark them down for execution if there was the slightest chance they might mend their ways. The agents, chiefs of village, police and security chiefs usually all lived in the same building. We would send a group at night with loudspeakers to explain the policy of the new resistance movement, to expose the crimes of the Diemist regime and tell the people how to struggle against it. Finally we would give a stern warning to the local agents, our megaphones directed specifically at their homes. Usually we fired a few shots in the air to impress them. “At first, the agents took little notice — they stepped up their terror. Our group would pay another visit, usually with two variants of hand-written leaflets. On one was written the biography and crimes of the local agents and the death sentence by the local organ of the People’s Self-Defense Force; the other was similar except it contained a
pardon with a warning not to commit any more crimes. If we found the chief agent at home, we executed him, leaving the execution slip with the body and posting up a few copies. For the others, and for the chief agent in case he happened to be away, we posted up the pardon and warnings. “Many of those ‘pardoned’ found ways of contacting us, thanking us on their knees for the pardon. Many offered to serve us while pretending to serve the enemy. In fact, we knew in most cases they would continue to serve the enemy as well. But we counted on the people exercising strict control over them in the future so we could accept this. Unrepentant sinners, after such a visit, would leave the village and operate from the nearest military post, visiting the village only in daytime. If we learned that several were in a specific post we would attack it. Our main motive in the beginning was to win the support of the population, raise their morale. “Once we had dealt with a handful of agents in any one district we could go in and out of the villages as we wished and the old resistance type of relations were established again with the people.”
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 195
NLF (Viet Cong) guerillas, Tay Nguyen — 1963, photographed by Wilfred Burchett
In Tay Nguyen — 1963
196 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
“We had just one week of married life” Sao Nam, by any standards, is a remarkable person. At the time I met him, he was a leading staff officer of the NFL forces in Quang Ngai, a former landless peasant, educated, as he expresses it, “by the revolution.” He is extraordinary, but also typical of many I met at that sort of level, from company and battalion commanders upwards. Everything about him reflects vigour, resource, confidence — a man in whom one would have unlimited confidence in the worst of situations. His face is deep chestnut, polished by years of wind and sun and open air. His wife, if still alive, is in prison. “We had just one week of married life,” he said with a rare sigh. “That was during the last year of the war against the French. Then she was rounded up by the Diemists and tortured until she put her thumbprint on a divorce document. I don’t know whether she is still alive; practically I can’t remember her face, try as hard as I can.” Sao Nam learnt to read and write in the Viet Minh forces where he had risen to the rank of company commander by the time of Dien Bien Phu. I doubt if he had ever studied anything about psychological warfare, like so many of his comradesin-arms he applied it in a natural and supremely effective way in day-to-day activities. It was natural to them, because they are of the people among whom they work and fight, know profoundly their sentiments and what moves them to love, hate and fear; what will instill confidence or arouse suspicions. Night after night, we sat around a campfire, chewing at roasted manioc roots and slapping at mosquitoes, while he told stories to awaken my interest in the nobility, the courage and dignity of the tribal peoples whom he regarded as his closest brothers. My own contacts with them would have been impossible had it not been for their confidence in cadres like Sao Nam who had shared their lives for a dozen years and more. By the end of 1960, word had gone out to overthrow Diemist rule wherever possible. Once his own district was rid of Diemist rule, Pho Nia went looking for enemy troops on the plains. By now, no matter who carried out military operations in Quang Ngai, even if orders and leaflets were signed by the NFL or local resistance organs, Diemist troops always credited them to Pho Nia. The Diemist reply, in late 1960, was to start hedging in all the villages in the plains, razing all bamboo clumps, fruit trees and patches of forest, to provide wood and bamboo ramparts for what were embryo “strategic hamlets,” and to deny any natural cover for the guerillas.
During 1960, the Diemists launched over 200 operations against Pho Nia’s area alone, but the more they tried to mop up, the wider the resistance spread. By 1961, the Diemists could no longer even try to launch raids into Son Ha, the home district of Pho Nia. Starting from his own village of Son Tinh, which he had moved back to the crest of a mountain and which the Diemists tried six times in vain to reach, Pho Nia gradually carved out a zone entirely free of Diemist rule and into which their armed forces could not penetrate. Diemist agents were cleaned out of village after village until Son Ha became a solidly liberated zone. This quickly expanded into neighbouring districts.
Armed Action Spreads To the south of Quang Ngai lies Binh Dinh Province. It was the commander of the provincial troops of the Liberation Army, Nguyen Van Hao, a 46-year-old veteran of the first resistance war, who explained how the sparks kindled in Quang Ngai flew across the border. The developments there until 1959 were similar to those of other Central Vietnam provinces. “In early 1959, there was a slight change in the situation,” he said. “Till then the struggle had been passive, people trying to delay as long as possible summons to present themselves to the authorities for investigation. But early in 1959 the minority people in the mountains flatly refused to come down to the plains for the police ‘convocations’. Word had come that the Kor people over the border were in revolt. So the Bahnar and Hre, who are the main minorities in our province, said in effect: ‘Come up and get us. We’re not coming down to be beaten and tortured like the Vietnamese.’ “In the lowlands a certain number of Vietnamese had been press-ganged into military service; we understood they had no choice and this influenced our attitude when we met them with arms in our hands. But the minority peoples refused to present themselves for military service. By mid-1959, the Diemists were sending units of platoon strength, then company strength to enforce their orders, but with no success. They could never lay their hands on anyone of military age. They tried to round up whole communities and concentrate them in the plains, but this failed too; villages faded out into the jungle. Any whom the Diemists succeeded in capturing they tortured in a most bestial way and when word spread of this, people started sharpening their knives and looking to their crossbows. “In September and October, there
were some incidents. These were harvest months and the enemy came to Tao Lac and Tu Lec, villages of the Bahnar tribe in Vinh Thanh, to destroy the crops because the men had failed to report for military service. By then everyone knew of the successful uprising and resistance of the Kor people. The Bahnar tribespeople withdrew from the villages into the forest, killed three Diemist soldiers with poisoned arrows and wounded eight more with the traps they had left around their ray. The Diemists sent aircraft to bomb the village to cover the withdrawal of their troops. This was the first spark in Binh Dinh. It seemed to stop at that. But the example impressed on other villages what could be done and, although all seemed quiet, passions were seething underneath the surface. In the meantime, we former resistance cadres had received word from our comrades in Quang Ngai and this gave us plenty to think about. After long discussions we decided it was shameful to let the enemy concentrate all his forces in Quang Ngai because of inactivity in the neighbouring provinces. “Just as the Diemists started their big action in Quang Ngai, we attacked one of their posts at Hoaui Ton in An Lao. We did not kill anyone, just tied up the troops while we relieved them of their weapons. We captured 26 rifles, 30 grenades and over 1,000 cartridges.” There were similar actions in Quang Nam and Thua Thien provinces to the north, so before the big action against Quang Ngai could be completed, the Diemist command had to withdraw some of the troops and militia they had brought from outside. These were rushed back to their own bases to try and stamp out sparks that were already spluttering there. The setting up of the National Front of Liberation on December 20, 1960, followed by five weeks an unsuccessful anti-Diemist officers’ coup in Saigon, were major events. Together they put the sporadic uprisings on an organized basis and provided the political framework within which the general military struggle was now waged. Wilfred Burchett was an Australian reporter often described at the ‘rebel journalist’ for his stories about the American War ‘from the other side’. After years of being at odds with the Australian government, last year the Melbourne Press Club inducted him into their Hall of Fame. Burchett was also the journalist to break the scoop of the 20th century — the devastation caused by dropping nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Special thanks to George Burchett for allowing us to republish this work. Please note that some of the language in this piece has been changed to reflect its modern-day spelling
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 197
The Final Say THE FINAL SAY
COMMENT
A Weasel Coffee for Your Thoughts After a night’s sleep disturbed by the crowing of roosters, Jill Kester likes to get her jaws around a weasel coffee or two. But just where does this super-coffee come from? Illustration by Vu Ha Kim Vy
Y
ou wake up to the sound of roosters crowing, the scritchscritch-scritch of street-cleaners sweeping away last night’s bia hoi detritus with their bamboo brooms, backpackers crawling in after a late flight and an even later night at the clubs, and wafting through the window is the smell of deep, rich coffee mixed with mocha and an unidentifiable je ne sais quoi. You vow you will not do another thing until you drink a cup of weasel coffee. Why are we (and by ‘we’ I mean ‘I’) so fascinated by a beverage that essentially comes from weasel poo? Moreover, who in the H-E-double-toothpicks came up with it in the first place? Let me share with you the scene I imagine in my head: ********** Two Frenchmen, squatting on tiny stools in the highlands of Vietnam, surrounded by piles of freshly picked coffee berries, are laboriously peeling away the outer fruit of the berries to extract the bean from the inside. Just then a weasel scurries by, pausing only to, well, relieve himself, and leaves behind a steaming chocolaty swirl punctuated with beautifully processed, bronzed coffee beans. “Et voila!” exclaims Pierre. No more peeling away of the fruit by hand. “Laissez les animaux faire le travail!” Let the weasels do the work. Of course, now they will need to pick through the pile of poo by hand, a thought which occurs to the other Frenchman. Jacques begins to protest, “Mais, mais…” But it is too late. Weasel coffee est né. ********** Yes, I think about weasels, and weasel coffee, a lot. I mean A LOT. Most of you who live in Hanoi have seen the bins of so-called weasel coffee lining
198 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
the streets of the touristy Old Quarter. It may appear to be a part of Vietnamese culture, but legend (and by ‘legend’ I mean the ‘internet’) has it that the French introduced this very special way of processing coffee beans. The actual process is as follows: whole coffee berries are fed to weasels whose stomach enzymes digest away the outer layer and improve the flavour of the inner bean. No weasels are harmed in the process because we don’t surgically retrieve the beans from their little bellies. Oh no, we wait for nature to take its course and the beans come out, well, naturally. That’s right, the weasels poop out the beans, which are then collected, cleaned and sold for up to US$500 (VND10.9 million) a kilo. In case you are thinking I made all this up (ok, in all fairness, I have made most of this up except for the following bit) you ought to know I used a reputable source for my information — The Economist, because they are a magazine that cares about the economy.
Weasel Dee and Weasel Dum So The Economist cares about the financial side, the French care about the coffee bean flavour, the fictitious Pierre cares about the workload, but who cares about the weasels? Has anyone ever bothered to consider their perspective? How would you feel if you were forced to poop for a living? I imagine one weasel with a Run DMC (a necklace-wearing rapper from the 1980s. What? You weren’t even born then?) necklace around his neck — it’s a huge dollar sign encrusted with diamonds. He sighs contentedly as he leans back with paws behind his head, “I can’t complain. Can you believe I get paid to… wait, hold on a sec… ahhhhh, there’s another 25 bucks. Duuuude, this is the life!” Or consider the weasel with a nagging
wife who approaches him to complain they need more money for junior’s college fund and he needs to take on extra work. The poor fellow shouts, “Come on, give a guy a break! Eat more, poop more. Eat more, poop more — that’s all I ever hear from you! I can’t take it any more!” For some reason, in my head, this weasel talks in an over-the-top New York accent. Then there are the more sensitive weasels who feel the work is completely beneath their dignity. “Ah man, I can’t believe we are force-fed coffee beans and then made to — I can’t even say it. Where’s the humanity?! I really think we should protest! Yes, let’s go on strike this very minute… oops!” He looks at the ‘product’ he just left on the ground. “Well, uh, let’s start the strike tomorrow.” Don’t tell me you don’t think about this from time to time… No? Huh. Well, perhaps you’ll think about the poor weasels next time you are souvenirshopping for folks back home and not wanting to buy a conical hat you’ll awkwardly have to wear on your head in the airport because it won’t fit in your suitcase, or an i-Pho t-shirt that they will most likely use to wipe up spilled beer. Instead you pick up a bag of weasel coffee, mistakenly thinking they will find it amusing. The recipient (actually, it’s my brother Andy) might just shake his head in disgust at your lack of maturity. And you’ve not only lost the last shred of respect this person had for you, but you’ve wasted a good couple of hundred thousand dong on what is probably not even real weasel coffee. That’s right. The coffee sold in the Old Quarter? Too cheap to be the real thing. Which leads me to wonder how one would produce imitation weasel coffee. I’ll leave you with that thought (and a few of you making gagging noises) and my parting question: Isn’t it time you gave more thought to weasel coffee?
wordvietnam.com | July 2015 Word | 199
The Last Call As Vietnam’s foremost urban explorer and star of YouTube series Challenge Me, Hoang Nam’s urbex exploits in Vietnam are unparalleled. Photo provided by Hoang Nam
The type of exploring I like best...
The best rooftop I’ve been on is...
is in abandoned buildings, off-limits ones that have lots of rumours about them. When I get access to them I study their structures and try to explain why they were abandoned. The weirder and more beautiful the structure, the more I want it for my video project.
Thuan Kieu Plaza, because it’s right in the middle of District 5 in Saigon. We could still see the old brick roof houses — which in a few years you won’t be able to see much of.
The city with the best urbex in Vietnam is... probably Dalat — which
is the place that people think has the most mysteries. Maybe it’s because of the chilly weather, or the old French villas hidden behind thick pine trees.
Hanoi and Saigon... have lost a lot of interest for me, although videos from these places get a lot of views because they’re close to the most people. I’m planning on doing more videos to introduce the cultures and people of the regions around. The human factor should make them feel both close and strange, and will get people wanting to visit. I want to travel to... Hue and Con
Dao, but haven’t been able to arrange the trips yet. My next videos are going to be me exploring buildings in Thailand and Singapore.
200 | Word July 2015 | wordvietnam.com
At the start of every journey I think about... what to wear. Usually I
wear comfortable sports clothes, with a light jacket and sports shoes. A backpack with batteries, torches, camera, GoPro and my phone on airplane mode to use only for filming. Other than that it’s protective gear — a multi-purpose knife, lighter, etc.
I’m always aware not to... move anything. I leave the place how it was when I came in. And take nothing but the footage.
When I get caught I say... that my
purpose is to find out about the place and I need help getting information. I’ve never had any trouble with guards in Vietnam.
I know danger can happen anytime so... only when I know it’s safe will I do it.
So far I have only good memories.
In the haunted houses I went to... I haven’t had the chance to meet a ghost yet. People say I didn’t see any because my
group had too many people, I didn’t go at the ‘prime time’ or brought charms with me. The time in the haunted villa in Dalat, I went alone. To keep myself from my own imagination I was constantly mumbling that I’m not a bad person, I’ve never done anything bad and I didn’t go there with bad intentions [laughs].
The weirdest thing... is that in all the houses I’ve been to, there are some rooms which are sealed shut, which I couldn’t get into although they’re abandoned. I’m still curious about that.
When I think about the past lives of these buildings... I often think of how
the things inside were used back in the day, how their owners used them. It gives me chills.
I’m the kind of person... who always wants to experience new things in my own way. No matter if it’s travel videos or exploring, I want to bring my own personality to it. I want to get different perspectives, and different experiences of myself. For now I’ll keep doing exploring videos, because they suit me best and get the most attention. Check out Hoang Nam’s videos at youtube. com/user/NamChallengeMe