Word Vietnam September 2013

Chuyên đề du lịch, ẩm thực Vietnam EDITION

September 2013

phong nha. caves. karsts. cave in the world. world virgin rainforest. primates. trekking.

the largest caving. swimming.

Nhà Xuất Bản Lao Động

contents wordvietnam.com

september 2013

The Talk 008 / Destination Phong Nha

Hanoi 040 / Calendar 138 / The Sausage Man

Vietnam’s ace in the tourism hole

The man behind Sausage Tuesdays

009 / The Big Five

140 / Chua But Thap

Events to look out for this month

Just 30km from Hanoi, a thing of beauty

Briefings 010 / New Heights

144 / Royal City

A run up 72 flights

In search of the perfect urban complex

014 / The Artisans

146 / CAMA Festival 7

Keeping alive a dying art

Men will croon and play guitar

018 / The Pham

Pham Ngu Lao spreads its tentacles

148 / When Old Meets New Playing an old game under disco lights

Ho Chi Minh City 032 / Calendar

050

086 / Masked Man

151 / Street Snacker

Chu Bay has an unusual passion — mask-making

152 / Overscene

088 / Unlocking Our Potential

154 / Hanoi City Guide

Business workshops draw the hopeful

Columns 104 / Job Search

090 / Volunteer Stop- portunities

106 / Business Buff

Margaret Smith wants to help, but where?

076

092 / The Show Must Go On

insider

Less than two months until opening night

050

074

099 / Street Snacker

176 / The Train Ride

Following the dead track from Dalat

180 / Travel Listings

Destination Phong Nha

Home to the biggest cave in the world, this park is becoming a destination

098 / Mystery Diner

Tackling the hardest trek in Europe

Mooncake Madness

Our judges help you negotiate mooncake season

Everything strange into one park, that is now growing moss

Travel 172 / Rocks, Sweat and Tears

172

110 / HCMC Promos 120 / Body and Temple 129 / Interiors

046

094 / Dai Nam-ite!

102 / HCMC City Guide

150 / Mystery Diner

Banh Mi, Remixed

America internationalises the banh mi

076

10 Things About Vietnamese Art

Your cheat sheet to Vietnam’s rich artistic heritage

080

Pillars of Faith

Fashion4Freedom is connecting craft with couture

134 / Student Eye 161 / Hanoi Promos 162 / The Alchemist 163 / Book Buff 165 / The Therapist 166 / A World of Good 168 / Medical Buff 170 / School Ties 184 / Travel Promos 186 / Tieng Viet FINAL SAY 190 / It’s a Number’s Game

192 / Last Call

2 | Word September 2013

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4 | Word September 2013

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The prelude

C

aves are just caves, right? Dark holes in the ground with lots of rock, dripping water, bats and icicle-like things called stalactites and stalagmites. Once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all.

If that’s your attitude then time to flip it on its head. There’s no blame attributed to this — after all, before I visited The Deer Cave in the Malaysian province of Sarawak, that was my impression, too.

Caves, who cares?

But, you see,

Vietnam has this little secret that is starting to come to the attention of the world. It’s called Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and it’s located in the little visited province of Quang Binh, 180km north of Hue. You may have heard that Vietnam is home to the largest cave on this planet — this is where you will find it. But if you think that this is where it all ends, time to take a rain check. I’ve been to Phong Nha twice. It’s sensational.

It’s not just me saying this, it’s the tourists who, in the last two

years, have started to come and in everincreasing numbers.

They, too, leave with rave reviews. When it comes to nature in Vietnam, Phong Nha leaves me speechless.

And that is rare.

So, here’s our cover story. Here’s our testament to the unearthly wonders Mother Nature creates both above and below ground.

If after you’ve come with us to see the jungle-covered limestone karsts of Phong Nha and explored four of its most endearing caves you still think I’m exaggerating, then

you need to tell me.

We sometimes get things wrong, but on this occasion I believe we’re exploring something that will change the way the world sees Vietnam.

I hope you enjoy this issue. It’s been a tough one, but fun nonetheless.

We’ve got a strong, creative team at the moment and feel we’re improving month by month.

But we need to hear your thoughts.

Simply email editor@ wordvietnam.com and I guarantee that we will reply. — Nick Ross

CHUYÊN ĐỀ DU LỊCH, ẨM THỰC VIETNAM EDITION

SEPTEMBER 2013

phong nha caves. karsts.

the largest

cave in the world virgin rainforest. primates. trekking. caving. swimming

NHÀ XUẤT BẢN LAO ĐỘNG

THIS MONTH'S COVER Cover by DH Advertising Photo by Francis Roux

Have Your Say Do you have any comments? Then let us know on Facebook — facebook.com/word.vietnam — or via Twitter, @wordvietnam.

No matter how positive or negative your thoughts, we look forward to hearing from you.

inbox

Do you have any comments that you would like to air? If so, reach out and touch us AT EDITOR@wordvietnam.com — we’re at your fingertips.

Fishes, Bicycles and a Few Nice Words

I love the new Word with all the beautiful bicycle stories and pictures in it!:) — EB

Where can I get a print of that beautiful cover? — EG I’ve looked at all the other expat magazines in Vietnam, and yours is by far the best. Thanks for doing this.

It’s really useful. — AS Word from Danang

They’ve recently combined the Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City magazines into one edition. It’s nice. I like it. On the eye it’s really nice to look at and the articles are generally good. But there’s too much advertising. I guess that’s the problem of free magazines.

But look at it, it looks really expensive.

And it’s big, but not too big. About the right size, I think.

I’m not sure who takes the magazines but every month the pile goes down really quickly. I guess tourists and Vietnamese. Not sure about the expats here. — Restaurant Manager, Waterfront

6 | Word September 2013

Timeless

One day I’m going to take those magazines home, put them in the guest toilet... I’m gonna show them to my kids.

They’re going to say, “What is this, it looks so old, this is like 50 years ago!” And I’ll say, “Yea, that was when I used to live in Saigon.” And then they’re going to open it up and say, “Wow, look at all this old-school sh^t.”

It’s Bobby…

Your article about Bobby Chinn and his Kumho Link restaurant closing down did not mention that the failure was in the main part self-inflicted (August 2013, page 8, The Food Chain). For the first year of operation there was no sign up on the front of the restaurant showing Bobby Chinn. One day, months after opening, on walking past the signless ‘Bobby Chinn’ the door was opened to let a guest out. I stopped and asked the staff what restaurant or lounge it was, and did not expect the answer to be Bobby Chinn. I asked why there was no sign up, and the answer was that in Hanoi they don’t have a sign, and so they did the same in Ho Chi Minh City.

The point is, those things are timeless. The articles you guys do, profiling people in Saigon right now, that’s gonna be timeless. That’s why I’ve got back issues! — RC

What a daft decision. I mean they are in a speciality food centre with many excellent venues to choose from. No surprise that it was nearly always empty, and failed as a business. — CE

We were going to leave for Hanoi tonight, we didn’t go — but! Instead of my internationally published tourist book of Vietnam, Renier had the Word issue of Hanoi (Word HCMC Edition, March 2013) lying right there, needing to be packed into the bag. — LB

Editor, re: Two Wheels are Good in the August 2013 issue, I would be willing to bet my very life that there are no early 20th century photos of Ho Chi Minh City in existence. Not one, anywhere, and never was. — Nelson

Time for a History Lesson

Nelson, Thanks for your email. See this link. These are just a few of the images available of early 20th Century Saigon. thanhniennews.com/aboutus/services/phongsuanh. aspx?folder=Historic%20Saigon

The talk

Destination Phong Nha A new destination is working wonders for the country’s tourism industry

G

et off the train at Dong Hoi, a provincial capital 150km north of Quang Binh, and you will get a surprise. Normally not one foreigner visits the non-tourist parts of Vietnam. But on this writer’s trip, at least 30 travellers rode the 1980s-built iron horse plying the route between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

That Dong Hoi is getting traction on the travellers’ circuit is due to the opening up of Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park. Just 30km away, it’s the home of the world’s largest cave and has suddenly entered tourist’s itineraries. So popular is Phong Nha that one Hanoi-based tour operator is aiming to start a new Open Tour bus route linking the capital with Ninh Binh, Phong Nha, Hue and Hoi An. And yet, talk to foreigners living in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City or even Danang — the majority have never even heard of Phong Nha.

Photos by Nick Ross

The Tourism Question

8 | Word September 2013

Over the past year, Vietnam’s tourism industry has been in soul-searching mode. Reality has dawned.

Why is this country not getting the same traction as elsewhere in Southeast Asia? In Thailand alone, the tourism industry brings in 22 million people a year. In Vietnam it is more in the region of five.

Two reasons are cited. The first is the need to purchase visas. This is closely followed by the constant flow of tourist scams, which authorities are now trying to stop.

Commentators have added another factor to the mix. Thailand is a destination that mixes entertainment and culture, which brings tourists back again and again. Vietnam, however, remains solely a cultural destination. Once you’ve seen the motorbikes and food stalls, and can add “I’ve done Vietnam” to your lexicon, you’re unlikely to come back.

But these causes fail to touch upon another,

perhaps more poignant reason, for Vietnam struggling on the tourism front — the lack of developed destinations.

Let’s take a look at a typical itinerary, starting in Hanoi. Two days in the capital are followed by a day trip to Halong Bay then three days doing Sapa. Fly to Danang and spend three days in Hoi An. Then onto Ho Chi Minh City for a day trip to Cu Chi Tunnels and another day trip to My Tho and Cai Be in the Mekong Delta, before flying home or out to the next destination.

Hue, Nha Trang, Mui Ne and Dalat are often missed out, because the tourist has already done that one route from north to south, and is unlikely to come back to fill in the gaps.

The Importance of Phong Nha Yet Vietnam has so much more to it than all those destinations on Highway 1. Daklak, Kontum, Dalat, Ha Giang, Lang Son, Dien Bien Phu, Phu Quoc, Con Dao, Mai Chau, Ha Tien, Bai Tu Long, Can Tho. The list goes on. The problem is that tourism in these places — except perhaps for Dalat and Phu Quoc — is badly served. Facilities are low-grade. Transportation is difficult. Few people speak foreign languages, and getting there requires going off the beaten track.

Which is why Phong Nha is working so well.

Transportation is easy. Growing numbers of caves are being opened up to tourists, both of the easy visitor sort and those reached on one or two-day treks. There are now five farmstays or homestays as well as a handful of mini-hotels, and the park tours are well set up and won’t break the budget.

Increasing tourism in Vietnam is about increasing the number of destinations. This will in turn increase the size of the market. Thailand has a plethora of easy-to-get-to tourist hotspots.

If Vietnam can develop something similar, then maybe they too may get the visitor numbers they so desperately hope for. — Nick Ross

the big five

3.

1.

Blue Moon

The annual Mid-Autumn Festival or Moon Festival offers countless opportunities to get howling at that big ball in the nighttime sky. Well, not really, but it’s certainly a great time for the kids.

Once you’ve had your fill of mooncakes (see our article on page 46), you may want to read up on a bit of folklore. Considering that it may require a bit of research, here’s a summary: Legend has it that a fellow named Cuoi, whose wife accidentally urinated on a sacred banyan tree, floated to the moon with the tree while trying to pull it back down to Earth. He’s still there, on the moon. And every year children light lanterns and participate in a procession to show Cuoi the way back to Earth. He still hasn’t made it.

If that’s not enough to get the myth juices a-flowing, then maybe you should take advantage of Trung Thu to get some luck back in your life. Every year, teams of two get into lion costume and do cool moves reminiscent of martial art. They dance and flip around and spread their luck everywhere. Which means that you, too, could be on the receiving end.

The Moon Festival takes place on Thursday Sep. 18 and Friday Sep. 19. Find events everywhere in Vietnam

2.

Fun Run

BBGV will be holding their 13th Annual Fun Run for Charity on Sep. 29 at The Crescent at 7am. This event is a 4km fun run to raise money for local charities in Vietnam.

The run was first organized in 2000 and has been popular in the local community. It has attracted more and more foreign and domestic businesses and individuals since then.

Runners can register either at the BBGV (Ground Floor, 25 Le Duan, Q1) or at Snap Café (32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2). The registration fee is VND150,000 per adult and VND75,000 per child aged six to 12. Younger kids can run free of charge. 10 percent discounts apply for bookings over 50 runners.

For more info, call (08) 3829 4830 or email info@bbgv.org

4.

GREAT Week

September is all about the UK and their diplomatic relations with Vietnam. To celebrate 40 years of doing more than just holding hands, the British Embassy is kicking it off on Sep. 7 by organising the first official rugby tournament in this country at Hang Day Stadium in Hanoi. Entrance is free. See page 34 for details.

The festivities will then continue later in the month with GREAT Week, Sep. 29 to Oct. 5. Details have yet to be finalised, but the celebrations will include a British film festival, performances by Candoco Dance Company, an animation festival and a number of fashion shows. For more information, check online at wordhcmc.com or wordhanoi.com

The AFL Grand Final

To celebrate the 2013 AFL Grand Final, Aussie Rules Football Club the Vietnam Swans will host parties at Boomarang Bistro in Ho Chi Minh City and Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake in the capital.

Taking place on Sep. 28, expect a great Australian day of fun, games and the Grand Final, shown live from the Melbourne Cricket Ground. Attractions include Australian breakfast, lunch and drinks, as well as other children’s activities.

The event costs VND1.2 million per adult at the door in Saigon and VND1 million in Hanoi. In Saigon, tickets for children aged 12 to 18 are priced at VND600,000 at the door, children under 12 are free of charge. In Hanoi, tickets are VND1 million per adult, VND300,000 for those under 18 and VND150,000 for those under 12.

The event starts at 9am at Boomarang Bistro in Saigon (CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7), and 10am at Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake (1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho). To register in advance or for more info, visit vietnamswans.com

5.

A Scoop on Snoop

On going to print, Word has caught wind of plans to bring the artist formerly known as Snoop Doggy Dogg — now Snoop Lion — to Ho Chi Minh City on Sep. 26. The rap veteran, with 20 years in the game and 30 million albums sold, has been stalking the region recently, performing in July in Singapore and sighted at Chill Skybar early last month. But solid plans to get him on a Vietnamese stage hadn’t appeared except in rumour. It could still go off, but as of now, Vietnam is set to welcome its biggest musical superstar since Bob Dylan.

Watch this space — or better, the ones at wordhcmc.com and wordhanoi.com — for details as they emerge.

September 2013 Word | 9

New Heights

brief ings

The Vertical Run returns to Hanoi this month. Here are some tips for anyone seeking to run 72 floors to the top of Vietnam’s tallest building

10 | Word September 2013

F

or the second time, on Sep. 15 Hanoi’s Landmark 72 — known locally as Keangnam Tower — will host one of the stages in the Vertical World Circuit, where competitors run to the top of the building using the fire escape instead of the elevator. Suzy Walsham and Thomas Dold are sitting high up in the VWC rankings and they spoke to Word, to give us some advice on how to prepare.

Some have likened the ascent to a marathon squeezed into between 10 and 30 minutes of intense performance. Strong legs and all round fitness are essential to cope with the extreme buildup of lactic acid. Walsham says although vertical running may not be categorised as an ultra endurance event, “it certainly does feel like [it]”.

She adds: “When every muscle in your body is screaming to stop and your heart feels like it’s going to burst out of your chest, you have to stay strong mentally and try to push the pain out of your mind.”

Dold agrees with this assessment, believing also that vertical running is a sport fit for the 21st century. “Cities are expanding,” he explains, “and so are the amount of skyscrapers — every week there are new possibilities for vertical running and less possibilities for flat running.”

“I think there will be many more vertical races in the [coming] years,” he continues. “But most important is, that people use the stairs for their daily training, to be fit and healthy in a society that sits and works on a computer more and more. So it [is] absolutely recommended to use the stairs, not the elevator or escalators.”

Hill Training. Find an office block, multi-storey car park or apartment building to recreate the stairs. Failing that, use the cross trainer at the gym.

Don’t like gyms? Fine, have it your way, use the stairs in your office, apartment or house. You can also try squat jumps and bounds to build power.

Recovery. Always have an isotonic drink (a drink consisting of salt, sugar and electrolytes — make your own by mixing rehydration salts from the pharmacy with water) after training to refuel and eat plenty of carbs in the meal after a session.

Getting massages is an affordable way to aid recovery. Stretching after training is essential to avoid injuries.

Regime. Two stair sessions per week, increasing the number climbed in the weeks running up to the event. Complete your last stair session four days before the event. Combine this with one to two short duration (30mins), high intensity cardio sessions per week, through running, cycling or using a cross trainer at the gym. Take it easy in your last week, keeping up the intensity but decreasing the volume.

Diet. There’s no need to drastically change your diet but avoid alcohol. Nuts, fresh fruit and vegetables all help. Avoid spicy food and heavy sauces 48 hours before the event. Eat some carbs the night before the event but not too much protein. It’s really important to keep your body hydrated so drink plenty of water.

So how do you train for such an event in a country where it’s not the heat but the humidity that will kill you, and in cities where the biggest hill is a slope going down into an underground car park?

This is a summary of the pair’s advice.

Tips for the Race. Eat a sports bar or banana a couple of hours before the event. Wear comfortable, lightweight, non-synthetic clothing that you’ve trained in before. Music is a good way to help keep a pace. Most of all, run your own race and stick with a pace that is sustainable. — Marc Forster-Pert

Humidity. Get out early, before 6am if you can, and drink plenty of water whilst training to cool your body and replace the liquid lost in sweat.

Don’t drink too much alcohol before training.

For more information on the event go to hanoirun. com. Registration is formally closed, however you may be able to twist some arms by emailing david@ sportingrepublic.com

Training and Preparation

September 2013 Word | 11

brief ings

The DJ Italian disco?

Futuristic crooner pop?

Moustachioed Italian DJ Rodion shimmies back to Vietnam a year after his first instalment

Your music has been described with all the weird adjectives contained between these quotes: “Las Vegas-style slow disco ballads, beautiful Italian melodies on Balearic house tracks and futuristic crooner pop... including some weirdo western whistling”. How would you describe your sound?

There are even more weird quotes around describing my music, and I am happy when people go bizarre trying to define my sounds.

I have never been stuck on a single style and my ears are active 24/7 since when I was a kid. I come from a classical music background and I also grew up with psychedelic sounds, video games and new wave melodies. I then became interested in electronic stuff.

Curiosity always led me to throw anything interesting into my compositions that I found along the way, trying to have fun while finding the right balance between apparently distant elements.

12 | Word September 2013

Why is Italian disco experiencing a revival these days (besides for it being awesome)?

To be honest, the Italian disco revival — the so-called ‘new disco’ sound — is quite over in Europe right now. We had a massive blast of it in the last five years but now current club trends are moving away from it.

This is good, because I have never been interested in revivals: I grew up in Italy during the early 1980s, so of course Italian disco sounds are a relevant part of my musical background and I still deeply love and respect the pioneering work of people like Giorgio Moroder, who were able to blend the futuristic sound of synthesisers with the sensual beats of disco.

I like music that tries to evoke visions of the future.

That’s what I find really interesting in the Italian disco of the late 1970s and early 1980s: the use of totally unconventional and forwardlooking synthetic timbres on top of already existing four-onthe-floor structures.

What’s the attraction for you in old horror movie / sci-fi / 1970s Japanese animation samples?

The genres you mention are among the very first ones to make use of the new electronic sounds available from the 1970s. Until the early 1970s music had always been limited by the timbres of “conventional” instruments, like the piano, guitar and bass.

The ability to generate your own previously unheard of sounds came with the diffusion of synthesisers, and became one of the biggest revolutions in the history of music. [These genres] are very creative genres, it is music where people totally unleashed their creativity to create new and imaginary worlds, visions of the future and of the unreal, like nothing heard before.

Your Italo disco comrade Bottin played here back in April. What did he have to say about us?

Bottin is a close collaborator and a very good friend. We’ve known each other many years,

shared amazing Italian dinners, have played many times together and released many tracks together, on Eskimo [Recordings, out of Belgium] and on his own label, TIN. He had a good and funny blast in Vietnam and I’m pretty sure it will be the same for me.

Actually, this will be my second time in Vietnam.

During my first visit in 2012 I found out that Vietnamese food is without doubt the very best in Asia, and food is one of my primary passions together with music. So I’m really looking forward to being in Vietnam again soon!

Why does Resident Advisor call you ‘the boy from Rome’? You are a man — you have a moustache!

Well, they are probably using an out-dated bio. I started releasing Rodion music back in 2006, when I was 29, so I might have been a boy once in my life!

Rodion is coming to Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC on Sep. 14 at 9pm, courtesy of Sound Adventures. Entry is VND100,000

brief ings

The Artisans Despite their importance in the development of Vietnamese art, Dong Ho woodprints are a dying trade

“T

here are only two families left,” says the woman, as she considers my offer for seven Dong Ho prints. “There’s not enough income in it,” she continues. “So most families have left the trade.”

I’m in the village of Song Ho, known otherwise as Dong Ho, just outside Ho Town in Bac Ninh.

Finding the home of Dong Ho woodprints, despite UNESCO heritage recognition, has taken some guesswork. There are no maps — even Google has failed to plot Dong Ho — and the travel companies who ply trips to Dong Ho, Bat Trang and Chua But they keep the location off their websites. All I knew was that Dong Ho is in Bac Ninh Province in the district of Thuan Thanh. So I drove out to Ho Town and asked for directions.

That Dong Ho isn’t even on the map these days is symbolic of how the artisanal trade of woodprints on giay diep paper has faded into insignificance.

Despite being a pivotal artistic medium in the development of Vietnam’s rich culture — it is believed to have originated in the 11th century, 400 years before Johannes Gutenberg and his gamechanging printing press — there is no longer a market for it. And yet the prints themselves are magnificent. Rich lines, bold colours, folk-tale stories, local myths. All are enshrouded in the handmade, once mass-produced prints that provided an early form of disseminating information and ideas in medieval Vietnam.

14 | Word September 2013

The Last of the Mohicans In the front of the gallery, the woman is deftly creating the works of art from a mould covered in red paint. She shows me how it works. She lines up four wooden plates on the floor, each with a different carving, and then counts, “One, two, three, four.” Each plate has a different carving, and each plate represents a different colour, all working together a bit like a modernday offset printing press to create the final print.

Gutenberg would have been proud.

As I leave I ask about the UNESCO-sponsored complex a few doors down. From the outside it has the air of a pagoda, but with brick walls too recently built and a main courtyard too well manicured it lacks that authentic feel of age. The woman shrugs her shoulders. Tourists, it seems, enter the site at the expense of her gallery, all making it even more difficult to survive.

Before she knows I speak Vietnamese, I overhear someone ask her how trade has been today. “E,” she replies. Terrible.

Such is the fate of the Dong Ho print trade.

UNESCO is involved in saving this art form, but without the marketing and exposure to the outside world — and without even a Google map location — Dong Ho and its artisans will fade away. Without even a whimper or a last stand, they are disappearing into a non-existent future from a rich, symbolic past. — Nick Ross

The Road to Dong Ho Don’t let the artisans or the village disappear, visit the place for yourself and buy some prints. Head down Highway 5 through Gia Lam towards Hai Phong, before turning right onto provincial highway TL282. Follow the highway until you get to Thi Tran Ho. Turn left, go through the town. At the dyke road intersection just before the river, turn left. Song Ho Village is 600m down the road on the left-hand side.

new york

steakhouse

September 2nd to September 16th

brief ings

The Tiger Trail One man’s journey to raise awareness about tigers

I

n May, Chris Slappendel started his sixmonth, 31-country trip around Asia. His purpose was to raise awareness about the plight of tigers. With only an estimated 2,500 to 3,200 wild tigers left on the planet, the Dutchman’s concern was that within 10 years, the creatures would be extinct.

“The important thing was to create content,” he explains. “So we created contests — for models, songwriters, artists and cartoonists.

But to tell you the truth, they didn’t work.

Not a lot of people wanted to participate.

My experience in the last three months of travelling is that people just don’t care.”

So he changed his tack. In January 2006 the Dalai Lama gave an emotional speech about the fate of the tiger. He asked the Tibetan people to stop wearing tiger skins. Tibetans took heed, burnt their tiger skins and the furs of other exotic animals and the demand for tiger products dropped overnight. Taking note, one of Chris’s goals is to find influential people to take up the mantle, similar to how the likes of George Clooney lobbied for international intervention in the conflict in Darfur.

“You need influential people, [personalities or leaders] who are looked up to,” he explains.

“I don’t know if there are people in Vietnam who can do that. But you see the tiger a lot in Vietnam. It’s an important symbol, part of the

16 | Word September 2013

heritage. If people in Vietnam realise that their national symbol is vanishing, then I think it will be more effective. And if you lose the tiger, it will be gone and it won’t come back.”

On the Trail Chris’s adventure, which this year has taken him to countries as far flung as Russia, Georgia, Tadjikistan, Kazakhstan and South Korea, began when he was 32 after going on safari in Africa. “It was fantastic,” he recalls.

“My sense for nature started to develop from that period.”

In 2012 he decided to try viewing a tiger living in the wild. He looked into the possibility of going to Malaysia. The research “scared” him — which was when he got the idea to travel Asia in an attempt to raise awareness for the plight of the tiger. “I realised that I had to be quick, or there would be nothing left.”

He adds: “I worked in a sales and marketing environment for almost 20 years, making people aware of the essentials of a product, of the solutions in that product. When I started to read all the research, I missed the awareness part. Awareness is crucial to making something sustainable. If you teach people why [they shouldn’t do something], then they won’t do it. It’s about making people aware of

why they should or shouldn’t do something.

Awareness needs to be part of the process to achieve something sustainable. So this is why I’m doing an awareness campaign.”

His biggest success so far has been in Russia, where he was interviewed on primetime TV — the segment was viewed by 50 million people — and had interviews published in the national newspapers. All because “I’m doing something extraordinary for them,” Chris says.

“I’m stepping up for their tiger. They think that it’s very strange that someone from Holland is stepping up for them.”

As for Vietnam, Chris hopes that the two sustainable populations of tigers — there are a maximum of 120 individuals — can be protected. Rather than attributing blame, a strategy that has proven unfruitful, he believes in a combination of education, co-operation between NGOs and marketing.

“We need to market the plight of tigers and de-market the demand for tigers,” he explains. “If NGOs market a tiger, they show beautiful pictures, make it more attractive, really beautiful. But in the process this makes consumers of tiger products demand it more, pay more for certain parts of the animal. It’s a Catch 22.” — Nick Ross For more information on Chris’s journey and to pledge your support, go to tigertrail.org

brief ings

F The Pham Spreading its tentacles

lashback to the 1990s and the focus of Saigon’s budget area was Pham Ngu Lao. Named after a 13th-century general who fought for the Tran Dynasty and repelled Mongol invaders from the north, as the 20th century came to a close his namesake street was now attracting foreigners of a different sort — backpackers. Bringing vital revenue into the city, the 1997 emergence of a Taiwanese-invested construction project in the park between Pham Ngu Lao and Le Lai saw the destruction of the houses, shops and seedy establishments on the north side of the street.

In its place was built an uncompleted shopping centre — a monstrosity that sits there to this day.

Because of this alteration in the landscape, the businesses that once lined both sides of Pham Ngu Lao began gravitating down the alleyways and onto De Tham. It was the first phase in the spread of the Backpackers’ Area.

Today, The Pham is once again extending its reach. Having taken up one half of De Tham — at the intersection with Tran Hung Dao it comes to an abrupt stop — it has gradually moved down Bui Vien and Do Quang Dau, an evolution that started in the 2000s. Now it is unfurling its tentacles onto Cong Quynh, the road at the end of Bui Vien linking the busy thoroughfare with Thai Binh Market.

The Risk But trying to bring business beyond The Pham’s labyrinth of alleyways and narrow roads has not

18 | Word September 2013

always been a success. A couple of years ago, a kebab shop opened on Tran Hung Dao, a few doors from Pizza Hut. It was always empty. A Viet Kieu even earlier in history tried to open a backpacker-style, café-cum-bar on Le Thi Hong Gam, 100m away from The Pham. Within six months he closed. A few entrepreneurs have tried their hand on the non-touristy end of De Tham — the only business that seems to have thrived there is Galerie Quynh. And on Cong Quynh, the location of the now-expanding budget area, in 2011 Lisboa Café brought Saigon its first taste of Portuguese fare. Their downfall came at the hands of bad management, non-existent marketing and a lack of aircon. The premises are now inhabited by Circle K. While location is important, so is timing. And now it seems Cong Quynh is ready for boomtime.

Five ‘foreigner-orientated’ businesses have now set up there. Godmother Bar — the pioneer — Crumbs Bakery, Zeus, Wings and The Hungry Pig. That they are attracting walk-in customers is partly due to Cong Quynh lying on the normal, round-the-edge-of-The-Pham walking route of the exploratory-minded traveller. Taking them from Bui Vien, up Cong Quynh, through to Thai Binh Market and then along Pham Ngu Lao, the new locations on Cong Quynh are a natural stop-off point.

But it’s the numbers that are really making the difference. With five businesses already there, two or three more added to the mix will make Cong Quynh into a destination. And destinations get customers. — Nick Ross

brief ings

The Scene Cargo Bar // Japandroids // Aug. 21

C

argo Bar is opened twice as deep as I’ve ever seen it, more packed than I’d ever seen it, and only one-quarter of it is dense with people — the most I’ve seen at a Saigon indie show. There’s ice on the floor.

Down our collars. Barricades. Vietnamese girls with the sides of their heads shaved. “The best drum solo Vietnam’s even seen.”

Bold statements. Girls from New Jersey. Guys wearing their shirts as scarves. 400 people, mostly strangers. Bands from Bangkok. Bands from Saigon.

Nipples taped. Pirate songs. Anticipation.

Text messages that say, “Entrance fees involved I heard? Seems everyone’s going.” Jumping.

Cell phones held high. Ice down shirts. Wanton elbows. Replacement drinks.

Fans from Mui Ne. All black. Jack Daniels riders. Marshall stacks. M’f’ers pogoing 10 rows

20 | Word September 2013

deep in the crowd. Breaking even.

Fluorescent taped electric guitars from Vancouver. Breaking even. Japandroids. The best indie showcase Vietnam’s ever seen.

Flogging Molly T-shirts. Guitar solos conducted atop kick drums. Songs that sound like My Generation. Songs that are Sex Beat by 1980s punkers The Gun Club. Encores that go “one more tune! One more tune!” Neck veins. Crowdsurfing.

Red-tinted sweat blasts from oversized amps.

The drummer hits the downbeat and the crowd flips.

“This girl thinks you’re the cutest guitarist she’s ever seen.” — “She’s right.” Fans from Singapore.

Drum sticks with autographs. Memories of oldschool punk — Bouncing Souls, Good Riddance.

A lot of people not getting it. Unpredictable beats behind Pumped Up Kicks.

A night to remember. — Ed Weinberg

TIME 7:00am – 10:30am FUN ON STAGE: 7:15 4KM RUN STARTS: 8:00

®

September 2013 Word | 21

brief ings

Douchebag of the Month The wonderful world of Hafid

H

afid from Dubai is a Tumblr internet sensation. Not because he is a celebrity or has done anything of note, but because he resorted to that most dastardly of dastardly deeds — he stole an iPhone.

Although he’s never met Hafid, George from Vietnam (name changed) is one of the victims.

When his iPhone was stolen a few months ago, he quickly got onto his computer to locate its whereabouts thanks to a tracking app he’d installed. The map showed a dot on a screen, with his phone gradually moving out of Saigon. A few hours later it had reached the sandy, dry province of Ninh Thuan and by that time George gave up hope. No way was he heading to Ninh Thuan to try and retrieve his handset.

The owner of the phone now in Hafid’s possession, was more fortunate — if fortunate is the word you can use for having your phone stolen. Her mistake was to go swimming naked at night when she was on holiday in Ibiza. Little did she know that Hafid was on the prowl. Not only did he snatch her iPhone, but all the possessions, money, passports and other worldly goods of her skinny-dipping friends. He even took their clothes.

A few days after she returned home to

22 | Word September 2013

Germany, she opened her computer and discovered that photos were still uploading from her phone to her Dropbox camera upload folder.

She had set the phone on automatic upload, and Hafid being the not-so-bright internet one-hit wonder that he is — he’s an under-talented tailor as she discovered — had not only forgotten to change the setting, but had not even changed her Dropbox login details.

So now, much to the consternation of George in Vietnam, who has nothing to show for the loss of his iPhone, the anonymous former iPhone owner from Germany was getting a behind-the-scenes, peekaboo glimpse into the life of Hafid. Even better, she decided to create a blog dedicated to Hafid — otherwise known affectionately as the ‘douchebag from Dubai’. All his photos, his friends, they’re there for you to spy on, too.

And the moral of the story? Don’t bother with the phone tracking apps. Instead, if you really want to safeguard that precious handset of yours, or at least have hours of after-theft fun, make sure all your camera photos automatically upload to the cloud. — Nick Ross To meet Hafid go to lifeofastrangerwhostolemyphone. tumblr.com

Ho Chi minh city what s on Chocolate Journey Learn about chocolate like never before with the Park Hyatt Master’s Tour to the Grand Place Cacao Farm in the Mekong Delta on Sep. 21. Take a journey with the humble bean as it becomes salacious chocolate, and see the painstaking process that is involved.

Upon returning to the hotel, guests will enjoy a personalised culinary class by Pastry Chef Bertrand Sommereux, who will instruct amateur chocolatiers in how to create delectable chocolate dishes.

Admission to the tour is VND2.5 million. For more information on booking and reservations, email nguyen.luu@hyatt.com or call (08) 3824 1234

Everyone’s an iPod DJ

DJ Henry Saiz Henry Saiz is bringing his uncategorisable sounds to Q4 on Sep. 13, backed up by fellow Spanish DJs Lupen Crokan and Pe Dro, with Romanian DJ Drew Tudose there to mix it up a bit.

In 2009, Saiz rode a remix of Guy J’s Lamur to track-of-the-year type acclaim, from house giants like John Digweed and Pete Tong. Since then, he’s taken the show on the road, arriving in Ho Chi Minh City on the heels of his February release Reality is for those who are not strong enough to confront their dreams. With six hours of music, this should be an event.

Henry Saiz plays Q4, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, on Sep. 13 starting at 8pm. Tickets are VND250,000 in advance, and available at Black Market, Bootleg, Cargo, deciBel, McSorley’s, Outcast and Yoko, VND350,000 at the door

Netball For Everyone Getting active just got a little bit easier, with Saigon Shooters hosting an open night on Sep. 9. The night will include a free ‘taster’ session of netball, plus opportunities to get started with Saigon Shooters’ Monday night league. Male and female participants aged 16 and up are welcome, regardless of ability.

Saigon Shooters’ open night takes place on Sep. 9 from 7pm to 8.30pm, at the AIS Sports Facility next to An Phu Supermarket. Contact Saigon Shooters by emailing saigonshootersnetball@gmail.com or calling (012) 8719 9921

24 | Word September 2013

Between Blind Test, their “guess that song!” quiz night, and the best coffee soundtracks in town, deciBel has made itself pretty well synonymous with music geekdom. Now, with their iPod DJ battles, they’re letting their customers’ geek flags fly. Sign up your five-song set by 9pm on Saturday Sep. 21, and be sure not to break the flow. deciBel is at 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1

Battle of the iPod DJs We asked some of the betterknown faces in the music industry what they would play on their iPods if they only had five tracks. Here are their responses.

Rod Quinton, owner of Q4 and head of Saigon Sound System Martha and the Muffins, Echo Beach Faithless, Insomnia Darude, Sandstorm AC/DC, Whole Lotta Rosie The Doors, Peace Frog Matt Bender, lead singer and guitarist in Joy Oi! A Tribe Called Quest, We Can Get Down De La Soul, Stakes Is High Curtis Mayfield, Move On Up Mayer Hawthorne, Work To Do Pavement, Carrot Rope DJ Starchild, Lip Service regular Snoop Dogg ft. Nate Dogg, Warren G and Kurupt, Ain’t No Fun 2pac, All Bout U Prince, D.M.S.R. Moon Boots, Off My Mind Garage $ale, Bump ‘n Grind (Waze and Odyssey Mix) Ludovic Tran, co-owner of deciBel Tom Waits, Ice Cream Man Etta James, Something’s Got A Hold On Me

Ray Charles, Mess Around Beastie Boys, Girls Jay-Z and Kanye West, Niggas In Paris DJ Joey-T, Friday Fix regular Tom Browne, Funkin’ for Jamaica Floating Points, Love Me Like This The Pharcyde, Drop Outkast, Spottieottiedopalicious The Mighty Diamonds, Gates of Zion Tanya Smackdab, lead singer of Banana Project Roy Ayers, Runnin Away Boombox, Stereo Daft Punk, Voyager Steely Dan, The Fez Kool and the Gang, Jungle Boogie DJ Luke Poulson, half of the Nam Jam DJ Collective Dawn Penn, No No No (You Don’t Love Me) Mr. Scruff, Get A Move On Lips Inc., Funky Town Musical Youth, Pass The Dutchie Royksopp, Happy Up Here Ed Weinberg, resident headbanger Janelle Monáe, Tightrope Uffie, Sex Dreams and Denim Jeans Yelle, Mal Poli Brigitte, Oh La La Foster the People, Pumped Up Kicks

September 2013 Word | 25

Ho Chi minh city what s on Far East Movement Coming to the Far East After the success of Miss Nine in All Stars Allied, DJ Radio App is bringing the American hip-hop band Far East Movement to town. The performance will take place at Fuse on Sep. 22. Download DJ Radio App at djradioapp.com for a chance to win free tickets.

For info and reservations, call 0942 866666.

Fuse is at 138 Le Lai, Q1

Narrow the Gap Lin Center for Community Development, which supports grassroots non-profit social organisations in and around Ho Chi Minh City, is hosting the final step in their community betterment project Narrow the Gap. On Sep. 15, the annual event will focus on disadvantaged children. The day will promise fun for children and adults alike, with arts and crafts booths, photo booths, balloons, raffles and much more.

Alongside the family fun, three grassroots NGOs that help disadvantaged children locally will be present. Each has a specific community project for which they hope to receive funding, and the votes of attendees will decide the grant amount that goes to each project. Each project will have a booth with further information, so attendees can be informed voters, and get involved in helping children in Ho Chi Minh City.

The Narrow the Gap Community Voting Event takes place Sep. 15 from 9am to noon at Q4, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh. To buy tickets, visit bit. ly/ticketntgevent, or find out more at linvn.org

A Meeting of Minds

Pasha Ibiza Resident DJ JP Candela The ‘Fresh Prince’ of Pacha Ibiza is coming to Fuse on David Guetta’s F*** Me I’m Famous World Club Tour, and he’s bringing the party. As an icon of Ibiza’s electronic scene, he’s turned tracks by Kid Cudi and Nicki Minaj on their heads. We can only guess what he’ll do to ours. Support by Fuse resident DJ Ajam.

JP Candela plays Fuse, 138 Le Lai, on Sep. 12, part of a new Thursday night international DJ series

San Art is once again doing something no one else in Ho Chi Minh City has done, this time enlisting Fulbright scholars, Thai social scientists, recipients of multimedia art prizes, art critics, magazine editors and museum curators to help them do it. Over the course of a one-year fellowship, 15 cross-disciplinary participants will get a chance to learn from these people and each other in the interest of stimulating creative activity in Vietnam. The series of lectures and in-depth workshops goes under the name Conscious Realities, and that’s what they’re trying to improve on, by testing the limits of people’s creative willingness one lecture at a time.

To apply, go to san-art.org/ ConsciousRealities/Encounter/Encounter. html. Registration closes Sep. 21

French Wine Week TBD Saigon Outcast keeps us guessing with a mid-autumn music festival that is “similar to last year’s music festival”. Guess that means it’s going to be awesome. But what it will actually be, we’ll have to wait and see.

Outcast is at 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2.

We’re excited for Sep. 22, come what may

26 | Word September 2013

It was only a matter of time. France has been celebrating 40 years of ties with Vietnam all through the year, and finally we’re getting to the wine. The three-part Sofitel French Wine Week will comprise a few events from Sep. 23 to Sep. 30, including a wine fair at the Gourmand Shop, a wine and cheese pairing night in the Boudoir Lounge and the welcome of world famous French wine critics Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve, who will be onhand through six wine dinners, each introducing another famous wine.

The wine and cheese will be mixed with some cold cuts on Tuesdays and Thursdays throughout the month, starting Sep. 3. The cheese and cold cut buffet price is VND550,000++, which includes a glass of red or white.

For more info, go to sofitel.com. Sofitel Saigon Plaza is at 17 Le Duan, Q1

S e pte mbe r 2 0 1 3

Surf and Turf is one of Corso’s most superior and special cuisines featuring a perfect match between beef and seafood. An US Tenderloin Steak combined with a whole Canadian Main Lobster in a relaxing dining atmosphere will surely impress you.

Ground Floor - NORFOLK HOTEL - 117 Le Thanh Ton St., Dist.1, HCMC, Vietnam - Tel: (84-8) 3829 5368 - Fax: (84-8) 3829 3415 Email: info@norfolkhotel.com.vn - Website: www.norfolkhotel.com.vn Managed by Norfolk Group

September 2013 Word | 27

Ho Chi minh city Just In

Exile Ink Is Exiled, Then Welcomed Germans Organising the Bedrooms of Vietnam Well-known German furniture and kitchens supplier Hafele is offering a new range of cool products, including sliding doors and LED lighting systems, door handles and furniture. For the clever, there’s the Tavoletto’s Combi Fitting, a bed and desk rolled into one. This is a real ideal deal for those without much space, but a good amount of taste.

For more info call Quynh on 0909 898691 or check out hafele.com.vn. The showroom is at 46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan

It’s not 40 years in the desert, but Exile Ink has made the long wander 30 metres up the street to 57 Xuan Thuy in Thao Dien, where they seem settled and have a nice parking situation. They also welcome another exile — Roel Schouten, a Dutch tattoo artist with 27 years of experience in 24 countries — as their new resident artist, covering every style. He comes fresh off studying Sak Yant in Cambodia, the magic sharp-stick tattooing method practised by monks throughout Southeast Asia.

Exile Ink is now at 57 Xuan Thuy, Q2. For some examples of the work they’ve done in the past, visit facebook.com/exileinkvietnam

Wunderbar Sizzling sausages and cool beer! That’s how Wunderbar gets your attention. In German, ‘wunderbar’ means ‘wonderful’, and the name says it all. Enjoy fresh barbecued German sausages from the charcoal grill and get taken in by the German hospitality, which the thoughtful staff’s always got on their minds.

Wunderbar is at 54 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1

ZanZBar Returns Saigon casual dining and fine drinks institution ZanZBar is reopening early this month in a new location — 19-21 Dong Du, Q1 — just a few doors down from Jaspa’s and close to the river.

Expect the same mix of creative international cuisine, well-selected wines and attentive service as in the past, as well as attractive décor and a great ambience.

For more information, contact ZanZBar at zanzbar.saigon@gmail.com

New Landing Spot for the Ancient Capital

Finding a Piece of Holland in Vietnam

Vietnam’s ancient capital Hue — whose stunning and ancient pagodas and citadels have been recognized by UNESCO — has a brand new landing spot from September, with the re-opening of Phu Bai Airport.

After renovations and runway upgrades, authorities have given the airport the green light for re-opening nearly two months ahead of schedule. The airport is only 15km outside the city centre, and once again offers tourists and locals alike easy access to the historical city. Travel to Hue resumes as national carriers begin flights to the ancient capital, with three daily return flights from Ho Chi Minh City and two daily from Hanoi.

In the lead up to the launch of Holland Village 2013 — which will be an actual piece of Holland in Vietnam — the Netherlands Consulate General is challenging locals to take part in a photo contest with a scene showing a similarity or contrast between the two countries (hint: check the flower market). Photos must be submitted by Sep. 30 and winning images will be exhibited in large format at Holland Village in November, and perhaps earn their creators a chance to see the real thing up close with a grand prize of a return flight to Amsterdam, courtesy of Air France KLM. For more info, click on holland-village.org

28 | Word September 2013

Entering a New Eon The former highest dining location in the city has just become the new highest dining spot here. Eon51, taking ownership of the 51st floor of the Bitexco Building, has taken over where Cirrus left off — that is, making incredible food. And they’re now offering a great deal on that very cuisine, with twocourse set lunches (VND345,000) featuring such exoticisms as baby pigeon breast, beef cheeks cooked in red wine and duck tartar, served from noon until 2.30pm. Bitexco tenants receive an additional 10 percent off.

To claim your view over the city, call (08) 6291 8750 or email reservations@eon51.com.

Eon51 is on the 51st floor of Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1

since

1994

Claudio, 24

Warehouse Version 3 Wine retailer and distributor The Warehouse is opening its third retail outlet, this time in the foreigner ghetto along Le Thanh Ton. Including an extensive selection of Old and New World wines together with a number of spaces for wine tastings, as with their store on Pasteur they will maintain the industrial, factory warehouselike feel thanks to the use of greys and bare concrete floors.

Warehouse will be shortly opening at 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1. For more information go to warehouse-asia.com

Coriander Gets Corralled The other end of Bui Vien has now claimed Coriander, which moved last month to 16 Bui Vien, Q1. Hopefully this will usher in a new era in keeping their wonderful duck curry and pad thai off the tourist track and in the mouths of those who know better.

Coriander is now up the street at 16 Bui Vien, Q1, or still in the same place on eat.vn

anna@InsuranceinVietnam.com

Ho Chi minh city Just In

Saigon School Facelift Forgot Your Vinyl at Home?

Vinyl purveyors Dia Than have opened a new showroom in the Saigon Pearl complex, complete with bookshelves full of vinyl and a full sound system with a turntable available to try. The friendly staff will be happy to demonstrate the music in their living room-esque environment, while you lean back with a cup of tea and enjoy LPs from Led Zeppelin and Argo.

Dia Than’s new showroom is located at Villa A3.15, Saigon Pearl Villas, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh. Get more information at diathan.vn

Two Giants Expanding Ho Chi Minh City’s just now beginning to experience what other world cities know to be true — it seems like a new Starbucks opens every day. And it seems like Saigon has already gotten used to the trend, with the new Starbucks on the corner of Nguyen Du and Nam Ky Khoi Nghia already finding its way into the workdays of the city’s on-the-go types.

Not to be outdone, Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf has just opened a new outlet in District 4, at 96Ter Nguyen Tat Thanh. They’re part of a new vanguard that has found something attractive about District 4’s close proximity to downtown, allowing onthe-go types to find more good coffee everywhere they go.

The Notorious P.I.G. The Hungry Pig is where Saigonites can now find the best bacon around, wrapped in fresh-baked Harvest Baking bagels and baguettes. In addition to the main event — the bacon and other Italian meats — savoury vegetables and quail eggs adjust their sandwiches to your liking. Juicy sausages will soon be added to the menu, and the recently opened sandwich bar is planning to start a delivery service in the future. They ply you with free coffee before 9am, and free beer from 8pm to 10pm on Fridays, all the while sending that sweet bacon smell through the air.

The Hungry Pig is at 144 Cong Quynh, Q1, or check them on the web at facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe

30 | Word September 2013

The New World Hotel, in collaboration with community members, has helped with the renovation of Tan Thach A School in Ho Chi Minh City. New World Hotel associates worked side-byside with the community to add fresh paint and prepare new walls, as well as provide three computers, 200 pieces of bed linen, 100 bath towels and 20 blankets. After the renovation process, the New World Hotel hosted a lunch for students and parents in the newly renovated canteen.

Game On! With two big projector screens and nine TVs, Game On Sports Bar is equipped for every exciting sports match there is.

From American football to volleyball to something not so exciting such as, erm, soccer, whatever your rooting interest is they have you covered, even with beer and some western food. Open from 8am, they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner till 11pm.

If you want to get active there are pool tables and dart boards. And every Friday you can be part of a sports tournament of your own by participating in the darts competition — game on!

Game On Sports Bar is at 115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1

Ganesh Gets a New Sanctuary Well-known and well-loved Indian restaurant, Ganesh, is upping roots this month and will be re-opening at the beginning of September at 38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1.

Formerly on Le Thanh Ton, expect the same mix of North and South Indian cuisine, kebabs, vegetarian fare, sweets, appetisers and, of course, great cooking.

For more information go to ganeshvn.com or call 0974 453087 (Padam)

Studio Co Sets Up Shop Studio Co, a collective of artisans, is opening their shop at 4 Le Van Mien, Q2, on Sep. 28, with photos from the collective’s photographers featured on the walls. Later at McSorley’s (4 Thao Dien, Q2) a fashion show will take place, featuring designs from the collective’s fashionistas.

For more info, check facebook.com/studiocosaigon

September 2013 Word | 31

Hcmc

september 2013

Shimmy Shimmy Coco Pop

L Sep. 6 — la fenetre de soleil

ast month’s Japandroids gig at Q4 reminded you why you love music, but now you’re only left with a memory. Well, Matt Smith of the Standards — the sick openers at that show, from Bangkok — is coming back to town to spin some records and tell you that he hasn’t forgotten either.

DJ Henry Saiz

H

enry Saiz is a savant.

He’s not like other DJs, in his unconscious use of technology and field recordings, in his feel for sound.

His is a melodic-hypnotic house, analogue techno and retro-futuristic pop sound, but really, that’s the sound of his world — he just knows how to speak its language.

Sep. 13 — Cargo bar

01 sunday

09 Monday

sunset menu. 5.30pm to 7pm Everyday @ 27 Grill. See Food Promos

saigon shooters’s open netball evening. 7pm @ AIS Sports Facility, An Phu, Q2. See What’s On

02 monday

10 Tuesday

03 tuesday

Wine Down Tuesday. Every Tue. half price all wine bottles all night @ Cloud9

Free Oysters. With every drink purchase. Every Tue. @ Barcode (102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1)

04 wednesday

11 Wednesday Happy Hour. Mon. to Fri. @ Barcode, 30 percent off drinks

12 Thursday

05 thursday ZanZBar reopens. @ 19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1. See Just In

06 friday DJ Pacha Ibiza with support from DJ Ajam. 9pm @ Fuse. See What’s On Everyone’s a DJ’s Shimmy Shimmy coco pop. Spinning 1950s and 1960s rock ‘n roll from 9pm @ La Fenetre de Soleil Wine tasting. From 5.30pm to 8pm @ Bacchus Corner. Call (08) 3829 3306 for reservations

13 Friday

07 07saturday saturday Henry Saiz Album World Tour 2013. 8pm @ Cargo Bar. See What’s On french movies at megastar: beautiful lies. 8pm @ Megastar Parkson Paragon ny steakhouse’s american festival.. From Sep. 3 to Sep. 10 @ NY Steakhouse. See What’s On

08 sunday

Buffet Lunch. Every Sun. @ Tamago, free for children under 5 years old

32 | Word September 2013

14 Saturday

DJ RODION. 9pm @ Cargo Bar. See Briefings

15 Sunday Narrow the Gap Event 2013: Focus on Children. From 9am to noon @ Q4. See What’s On

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhcmc.com by no later than Sep. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

Mid-Autumn Delights

P Sep. 18 - 19 — InterContinental

erhaps you know it by the mooncakes, the tiger dances or the strange folklore, but it’s mid-autumn in Vietnam. And nothing’s sadder than eating a mooncake by yourself. InterCon’s Yu Chu and Market 39 both have special buffet menus to celebrate, which will leave you with more to remember midautumn by next year.

16 Monday

13th BBGV Fun Run

Y

ou’ve eaten all the mooncakes you can, and now it’s time to burn off those thousands of calories. Well, BBGV’s 4km Fun Run around The Crescent was invented just for you. And the local charities it helps aren’t complaining either.

Sep. 29 — The Crescent

23 Monday

Home-made mooncakes. Until Sep. 19 at Shang palace, Norfolk mansion

17 Tuesday

Ladies day. Every Tue. @ Tamago (39 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, Q2).

Free 1 drink for ladies

18 Wednesday

French Wine Week. From Sep. 23 to Sep. 30 at Sofitel Saigon Plaza.

See What’s On

24 Tuesday 25 Wednesday Tet Trung Thu Charity Music Festival 2013. 8pm @ Hard Rock Cafe

VND6,000 Chicken Wings. Every Mon. and Wed. @ Barcode (102 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1)

19 Thursday

26 Thursday

mid-autumn delights. From 18 to 19 Sep. @ Intercontinental

Yakitori Promotions. Every Thu. evening @ Tamago. From VND39,000 per skewer

20 Friday Electric Kicks. 9pm @ Broma Riedel Glass Tasting. 5.30pm to 8pm @ Bacchus Corner. Call (08) 3829 3306 for reservations french movies at megastar: liberty. 8pm @ Megastar Parkson Paragon

27 Friday

trus’me. 9pm @ Cargo Bar DJ Big Chris. Every Fri. and Sat. at Plan B (147 Hai Ba Trung, Q3) french movies at megastar: The Rabbi’s Cat. 8pm @ Megastar Parkson Paragon GERMAN FILM FESTIVAL. From Sep. 27 to Oct. 4 @ Cinebox

21 Saturday

28 Saturday

22 21 Sunday sunday

29 sunday

LIP SERVICE. 9pm @ Broma mid autumn music festival. From 4pm @ Saigon Outcast last day to apply for “encounter”: conscious realities. See What’s On

groove control. 9pm @ Broma STUDIO CO SHOP OPENING. With collective fashion designs and photography exhibits @ 4 Le Van Mien, Q2. See Just In Vietnam Swans AFL Grand Final party. From 9am @ Boomarang Bistro. See What’s On

bbgv 13th annual fun run for charity. 7am @ The Crescent. See What’s On

30 monday dj radio app presents far East Movement. @ Fuse. See What’s On

Last day of Holland & Vietnam in your eyes photo contest.

September 2013 Word | 33

hanoi what s on

The Movable Feast Get Saturday Sep. 28 marked in your calendar right now for what promises to be an exceptional evening.

The inaugural Movable Feast will kick off for the evening in the Chula courtyard over canapés and cocktails before taking in the panoramic views of West Lake at the new Warehouse on Xuan Dieu, as you indulge in entrées. Then enjoy the rest of your meal under the stars and lights of the city on Hanoi Cooking Centre’s roof terrace. Finally, chill-out in style with sweet treats at Pots ‘n Pans.

The cost is just VND2.5 million per person and includes transport, entertainment, food and beverages. All transport between locations will be provided by electric buggies. Tickets are available at Pots ‘n Pans and Hanoi Cooking Centre. For more information contact Chapi Aspirant on (04) 3927 0479 or email info@ chapiaspirant.com

Hanoi Rugby Tournament The first official rugby tournament in Vietnam will be hosted at Hang Day stadium in Hanoi on Saturday Sep. 7.

Called the London 2012 Olympics Legacy International Rugby Friendship Tournament, the event is organised by the British Embassy in conjunction with the Hanoi Dragons. Teams will be flying in from all over Southeast Asia to compete in the event, while a junior rugby exhibition and a rugby quiz will also be part of the show.

Kicking off at 9am, entrance to the stadium is free. All are welcome.

Hang Day Stadium is on Trinh Hoai Duc, Ba Dinh. For further information contact Ms. Ha Tran on (04) 3936 0500 ext. 2313 or email tran.ha@fco.gov.uk

Tokyo’s SOI 48 DJ crew hits ATK DJ Kei and DJ Shin of Tokyo’s Soi 48 crew will lay down a madcap all-vinyl world funk and dancehall set at CAMA ATK on Sep. 13.

The Soi 48 boys pride themselves in uncovering the rarest cuts from every corner of the world. Expect a steady stream of 1960s to 1970s vintage treats from Africa, Thailand, India, Pakistan, Turkey and beyond. Those who enjoyed Voodoo Frank’s all-vinyl African funk at ATK last year and Zudrangma Records’ Maft Sai’s appearances in ATK will know what to expect.

The event runs from 8pm to 1am. CAMA ATK is at 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung

34 | Word September 2013

The City The Goethe-Institut is running a photo exhibition until Sep. 14 documenting change in 22 cities around the world.

Titled The City: From the Becoming Until the Decay, the exhibition is displaying the work of 18 photographers from the German agency OSTKREUZ. The images are part of a quest to discover the urban realities of today: How are people living in Tokyo and Manila, Lagos and Las Vegas, Berlin, Minsk and Gaza? The personal impressions of the artists have been concentrated into

a selection of photo essays. Cities are presented as places of future hope, but also in a way in which they seem to perish under the pressures of waste and chaos. As a whole the exhibition tries to unveil the city of the future.

The exhibition will run until Sep. 14 at Fine Arts Museum Hanoi, 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, and Goethe-Institut Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Entrance is free and doors open daily from 8.30 am to 6pm. For more information go to goethe.de/vietnam

September 2013 Word | 35

hanoi what s on Geek Fight Apparently ‘geeky’ is the new ‘sexy’, and those tired of the same routine who want to challenge themselves on useful and useless trivia can join the Geek Fight at Son Tinh Lounge Bar on Sep. 5 at 9 pm.

There are eight categories with eight questions each: Chicken Invaders; Tales of the Cocktails; Game of Thrones; The Beach; Famous People Who Died in the Bathroom; Sports Team Logos; 50s Rock and Rollers and Good Morning, Vietnam.

If you fancy joining, you have to create a team with three to five members, and reserve a table at Son Tinh Lounge Bar to save a slot for Sep. 5.

After round four the four teams with the highest scores go into the semi-final, then the two teams with the highest scores battle it out in the final. The winning team nets a bottle of Son Tinh Premium Liquor and a VND500,000 food voucher from Highway4.

Son Tinh Lounge Bar is at 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 0975 970423. Or click on geekfighttrivianight.com

Story Slam Returns Hanoi Slam has scheduled their next show for Wednesday Sep. 11 at CAMA ATK, with a portion of the proceeds going to support Humanitarian Services for Children of Vietnam.

A story slam combines storytelling, standup and performance in a competition-style format that has already become a huge hit across America and Europe. Participants must tell a real story based on a theme, without notes, in less than six minutes. The eclectic panel of judges and volunteers will pick a winner — with some fantastic prizes going to the best storytellers.

Last month’s theme was First Impressions — winner Megan captivated the audience with a tale of re-connection in Cuba. The top three storytellers received prizes courtesy of The Oasis Deli, Bookworm and The Warehouse.

Registration for the second Slam has just opened with the theme Lost in Translation.

Spots are strictly limited.

Contact hanoistoryslam@gmail.com or facebook.com/HanoiSlam for more information.

Tickets are available for VND100,000 on the door.

Storytellers get in for free

CAMA Festival SEVEN CAMA Fest is back on Saturday Oct. 12, this time for their seventh outing as they once again descend on the American Club.

With Zoo (India), Turtle Giant (Macau) and Raggabund (Germany) already on the roster, a number of other acts are expected to be confirmed for Hanoi’s biggest live music event of the year. The Hanoi Flea Market will also be on-site this time round, all giving extra depth to the event.

To keep up to date with all the news, go to camafestival.com. Ticketing will be announced shortly

36 | Word September 2013

Exhibition Call for Artists Work Room Four is calling on all artists keen to take part in an open exhibition taking place from Sep. 26 to Oct. 13. The deadline for submissions is Sep. 15. The call is for artists of all media, amateur or professional from 18 upwards.

For more information go to workrmfour. tumblr.com/tagged/events. Work Room Four is at 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung

- Authentic Indian Cuisine Serving both North & South Indian dishes - Cozy & Ambient setting - Halal Food - Free Home Delivery - Indoor Party facilities & Outdoor catering services - For details contact Gopi 0903 266 997 Or Ms Dung 093 657 2277 Add: 47 Lo Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi Tel: (84 4) 3935 2400/01 Email: Info@namastehanoi.com Fax: (84 8) 3935 2402 Website: www.namastehanoi.com

HCMC: +84 8 3933 0065 HaNoi: +84 4 3941 0805 E: info@santaferelo.com.vn www.santaferelo.com

September 2013 Word | 37

hanoi Just In

Hanoi Holistic Health Guide

Rasa Singapura Lovers of authentic Singaporean cuisine will be happy to know that Rasa Singapura is now open at 185 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho. Formerly located on Truc Bach, the cuisine here includes anything from nasi lemak to chicken curries, beef rendang and gado gado.

It’s home-cooked, and where possible the spices are imported, so it tastes great too.

A primary and comprehensive directory of holistic health and wellness services in Hanoi.

Holistic Health Bible Available for Free The recently updated Hanoi Holistic Health Guide is now available online. Containing a comprehensive listing of holistic and wellness practitioners in the capital, it is an indispensible resource for those looking to optimise their physical, mental and spiritual health.

A free download of the guide is available at issuu.com/hanoiholistichealth

Fourth German Film Festival Goes Nationwide

Turtles Home After Euro Stint Cuc Phuong National Park welcomed home 71 Vietnamese pond turtles last month who were successfully bred in Europe before returning to Vietnam for the first time.

The endemic Vietnamese pond turtles (mauremys annamensis) are now settling into their new home in the park at the Turtle Conservation Center (TCC).

The turtles will be with more than 200 of their relatives already being kept at the TCC. The ultimate goal will be to return the animals to their natural habitat in Quang Ngai Province in central Vietnam.

This year’s German Film Festival taking place from Sep. 5 to Oct. 3 will come to Hanoi, Hai Phong, Danang, Hue, Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh City and Thai Nguyen.

10 of the hottest movies in the German language with Vietnamese and English subtitles or voice-over will be screened, with the lineup including films that have been successful globally as well as at the Berlin Film Festival.

Two films deal with German history.

Barbara is the story of a woman torn between two countries, East and West Germany, and likewise between two men. Four Days in May covers the rare co-operation between Russian soldiers and German civilians when the Soviet Army occupied an orphanage during World War II. The co-existence of different cultures is a topic addressed in the movie Kaddish for a Friend. Set in Berlin, it portrays the development of an exceptional friendship between a Palestinian boy and a Jewish World War II veteran.

Comedy and drama are an integral part of Vincent Wants to Sea, Home for the Weekend and Stopped on Track. The post-apocalyptic thriller Hell gives an impression of a world where the sun has turned the earth into a lifeless wasteland where humans struggle to survive. Entertainment for the whole family is offered with Victor and the Secret of Crocodile Mansion and Animals United – Adventure in Africa.

Tickets for all screenings are free. For more information on scheduling go to goethe.de/ german-filmfestival-vietnam. Goethe-Institut Hanoi is located at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Tel. (04) 3734 2251 The screening schedule is as follows: Hanoi: Sep. 5 to Sep. 11 Hai Phong: Sep. 10 to Sep. 15 Hue: Sep. 12 to Sep. 18 Danang: Sep. 13 to Sep. 18 Nha Trang: Sep. 5 to Sep. 8 Thai Nguyen: Sep. 6 to Sep. 8 HCMC: Sep. 27 to Oct. 4

Rockstore Walk down Ma May and you won’t miss the newly opened Rockstore thanks to its half-cut car chassis above the entrance.

Once the cafe-cum-bar space Umbrella, Rockstore has converted this little frequented venue into a bold and vivacious live music bar that will host DJs, parties, events and bands.

Spread over the three floors — only the first two are open to the public right now — the decor here screams music. Everything from band logos to framed guitars line the walls, while DJ booths, a stage area, dancing poles, glass flooring and eye-catching neonlit dance areas fill the void.

Food is on the menu, too, including burgers, salads, steaks and tapas, and the venue has already set up an array of events for the coming month. Be sure to mark down the grand opening on Sep. 13.

Rockstore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem. For more information email hangrockstore@gmail.com or call 01653 336087

The KAfe Well-known Kitchen Art is extending its Hanoi foodprint with the opening of its first food outlet, the KAfe. Carrying the same food philosophy as Kitchen Art, the KAfe offers unfussy, hearty comfort food aimed at satisfying every modern urban diner, all prepared by Australian head chef Joel Manton. Simple, fresh, tasty and with a respect for natural ingredients, the cuisine is served up in a casual and spacious setting with a contemporary edge. Included on the menu is a range of breakfast items — creative banh mi, tapas, steaks and more.

The KAfe is at 18 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh and is open daily from 7am to 11.30pm. For more information click on thekafe.vn or go to facebook. com/thekafevn

Warehouse Version 2 Wine retailer and distributor The Warehouse has opened a second retail outlet, this time on the corner of Xuan Dieu and Quang An in West Lake.

Including a basement wine cellar and a number of spaces for wine tastings, as with their store on Hang Trong they have maintained the industrial, factory warehouse-like feel thanks to the use of greys and bare concrete floors.

Warehouse is at 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. For more information go to warehouse-asia.com

September 2013 Word | 39

hanoi

september 2013

4th German Film Fest

G

Sep. 5 - 11 — National Cinema Center

oethe-Institut is once again taking the best in current German cinema to Vietnam, with 50 free screenings taking place over its six-day run.

From road movies about a Tourette’s sufferer and a bulimic falling in love, to fun family films which take place in Crocodile Mansions, there are several reasons 50,000 came out last year to this festival.

Japanese Autumn Concert

C

oinciding with the Japan-Vietnam 40th Friendship Year, some of the stars in Japanese classical music are coming to Vietnam for two nights of Beethoven, requiems and peace, all under the baton of renowned Japanese conductor Honna Tetsuji.

Sep. 14 - 15 — Hanoi Opera House

01 sunday

09 Monday

The City: From the Becoming Until the Decay. Until Sep. 14 @ Goethe-Institut

10 Tuesday

02 monday Solo Night with Australian musician Ben @ Don’s Oyster Bar, every Monday

03 tuesday Workshop: Human beingS in their environment. From Sep. 3 to Sep. 7 @ Goethe-Institut Canadian Music Night @ Don’s Oyster Bar, every Tuesday

04 wednesday The Soul of Acid Jazz @ FatCat Bar

05 thursday Opening of the 4th German Film Festival in Vietnam. @ Hanoi National Cinema (87 Lang Ha, Dong Da) Geek Fight Quiz Night @ Son Tinh Lounge Bar, 9pm. Go to geekfighttrivianight.com for information.

06 friday Film: The interpreter. From 2pm to 4pm @ American Centre Friday Nights on the Terrace @ The Press Club

07 saturday Hanoi International Rugby Tournament. @ Hang Day Stadium from 9am. Free entrance. Email tran.ha@fco.gov.uk for details

08 sunday German Film Festival in Vietnam. Until Sep. 11 @ Goethe-Institut

Hanoi Pub Quizzers weekly pub quiz. @ R&R Tavern. Every Tuesday 9.30 pm to 11pm, on the first floor

11 Wednesday Hanoi Slam STORYTelling night. @ CAMA ATK. Email hanoistoryslam@gmail.com to get involved. Entrance 100k

12 Thursday Hot Chicks Band. @ Rockstore (61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem) every Thursday

13 Friday Soi 48 DJ CREW. @ CAMA ATK, 8pm to 1am Grand Opening of Rockstore. @ Rockstore, 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

14 Saturday Vietnam Japan 40 Autumn Concert Tour. @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm. Go to ticketvn.com for tickets and details Final day of The City: From the Becoming Until the Decay. Until Sep. 14 @ Goethe-Institut ARGENTINE TANGO and MILONGA Night. @ Milan Saigon Bar, InterContinental West Lake. Every Saturday 8.30pm to 11pm. Go to hanoi-tangocommunity.blogspot.com for details

15 Sunday Opening of new artists’ exhibition. @ Work Room 4. Runs until Oct. 13. Go to workrmfour.tumblr.com for details Vietnam Japan 40 Autumn Concert Tour. @ Hanoi Opera House, 8pm. Go to ticketvn.com for tickets and details Piknic Elektronic. @ Softwater. 4pm to 9pm every Sunday

40 | Word September 2013

To have your event included in our calendar, please email news@wordhanoi.com by no later than Sep. 20 with a description of the event and a high-res photo

DJ Kulture

AFL Grand Final

M

r. Piknic Electronic, DJ Kulture, otherwise known as Steve Stander, is playing at Hanoi’s newest concert bar, RockStore. While not quite the garden sprawl of Piknic, RockStore definitely has enough space to get the party going — and looks like it will have a good amount of parties to fill it with.

Sep. 21 — RockStore Hanoi

Y

ou’re going to watch the Aussie Rules Football Grand Final, you know that. But how are you going to get the kids into it? The Vietnam Swans have your answer, in their annual party — food, games, prizes and big-screen TVs.

Sep. 28 — InterContinental Hanoi Westlake

16 Monday

23 Monday

17 Tuesday

24 Tuesday

THBC Social Bike Rides. Meet at The Hanoi Bicycle Collective at 6.30am for 15km ride around West Lake. Every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday

25 Wednesday

18 Wednesday STEREO MCs NIGHT. @ FatCat Bar Latino, Jazz and Pop with the Tip Box Band @ Don’s Oyster Bar Live Ca Tru @ Hanoi Ca Tru Club, 42-44 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, 8pm to 9.30pm every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday

19 Thursday SOUTH & CENTRAL AMERICAN BUFFET @ Melia Hanoi, every Thursday.

Free flow of house wine, draught beer & soft drinks

Dance Festival, Europe meets Asia in Contemporary Dance.

8pm @ Youth Theatre, 11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung REGGAE NIGHT. @ FatCat Bar

26 Thursday Open Exhibition. Until Oct. 13 @ Workroom4

27 Friday

Live Music @ Spy Bar. Every Thursday and Saturday, 9pm to 11pm. Free entrance and drink specials.

Latino, Jazz and Pop with the Tip Box Band @ Don’s Oyster Bar

20 Friday

28 Saturday AFL Grand Final. @ InterContinental Westlake. Email nationalpres@ vietnamswans for tickets and information Movable Feast. 6.30pm @ Pots’n Pans

seafood dinner buffet. Every Fri. night @ Nikko Hotel

Live Rock with the Freebirds. @ Rockstore, 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

21 Saturday

29 Sunday

Tay Ho Weekend Market. @ ASVELIS Yard, #4, 67/12 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Every Saturday from 9.30am to 12.30pm

Piknic Elektronic. @ Softwater. 4pm to 9pm every Sunday

DJ Kulture. @ Rockstore, 61 Ma May, Hoan Kiem

30 monday

22 Sunday September 2013 Word | 41

in the papers The Best of the VietnameSe Press

HOANG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

TRUONG SA ARCHIPELAGO (VIETNAM)

Jungle Men Back in Society After 40 Years A father and son who lived in total isolation from society for 40 years in a remote jungle in the central region have been brought back to ‘normal’ life. In that time, they ate fruits, manioc and corn, and only wore loincloths made of tree barks. They even built a tree house.

Ho Van Thanh, 82, and his son, Ho Van Lang, 42, were spotted by some locals while they were travelling in a deep forest in Quang Ngai Province in Tay Tra District.

Being surprised by the jungle men’s abnormal appearances, gestures and manners, the locals reported their finding to authorities of Tra Phong Commune.

The authorities set up a team to track them down, and after five hours of search in the forest, they found the father and son staying in a small hut built on some branches of a large tree.

The hut was about five metres high, and both men were dressed only in loincloths made of tree barks when they were found, the team’s members said.

Due to being isolated from social contact for a long time, both father and son could only speak a little of the language of the Kor ethnic minority group.

After carrying out an investigation into the men’s identities, concerned agencies said that Thanh once lived a normal life with his family in the commune’s Tra Kem Hamlet 40 years ago. But one day during the American

War a bomb exploded in the hamlet, killing Thanh’s wife and two of his four children on the spot.

It is suspected that due to the shock, Thanh took his remaining son, two years old at the time, and ran away into the jungle. He and his son had since lived a lonely life, without contact with the outside world.

The district authorities have asked the local health agency to make medical check-ups for the father and son, the first step in a process to reintegrate them into society.

Toxic Rice Vermicelli Found in Southern Vietnam Samples of rice vermicelli taken from four southern provinces and cities — including Ho Chi Minh City — have been found to contain Tinopal, a toxic substance that can cause cancer, the food safety agency reported.

The discovery was made during recent inspections conducted in a series of provinces and cities across the country by experts from the Health Ministry’s Food Safety Department.

The inspections were conducted after the Center for Study and Consultation on Consumerism (CESCON) announced the results of its safety inspections in late June, which showed that more than 80 percent of the Vietnamese rice vermicelli samples taken for tests in Ho Chi Minh City contained Tinopal, a banned chemical.

Regular, extended consumption of Tinopal can harm a person’s digestive system, and can cause kidney and liver failure as well as cancer, CESCON deputy director Do Ngoc Chinh said.

More than 100 international tourists have booked tours to the world’s largest cave in Vietnam’s north-central province of Quang Binh since it opened to tourism earlier this month, the tours’ sole operator said.

In an interview with Thanh Nien, Nguyen Chau A, director of Oxalis Company (oxalis.com.vn), said since provincial authorities restricted the pilot tours to be operational this August and then February-March next year, many people will have to wait.

If the pilot project proves successful, Son Doong will be officially opened to caving tourism between February and August every year.

In the meantime, 12 foreign tourists have visited the 150-metre high and 200-metre wide cave in Phong Nha–Ke Bang National Park, A said.

The first visitors were two Americans, one Australian, one Norwegian and one Brit, who arrived at Son Doong on August 1 and

Photo Credit: Howard Limbert / Vietnam Caving Expedition

Tours Start to World’s Largest Cave

spent one week there.

Paying US$3,000 (VND63 million) each for the tour, the first six tourists were accompanied by 22 people who were trained to guide and serve tourists by the Oxalis Company in collaboration with the park’s management board.

Among the 22 people who accompanied the tourists were Howard and Deb Limbert, who led members of the British Cave Research Association to explore the cave in 2009, a tour guide and two officials of the management board.

Ho Khanh, a local resident who discovered the cave, also attended the first ever tour of the cave.

in the papers

Foreigners with Long-Term Visas Able to Buy Property Under a proposal by the Construction Ministry, all foreigners staying in Vietnam on a visa valid for more than three months will be able to buy houses in the country, and may hold house ownership for 50 to 70 years.

A pilot scheme has already been in place for foreign organisations and individuals to purchase and own residential homes in Vietnam. However, according to statistics,

My Tam Represents Vietnam at MTV EMA MTV Vietnam has announced that popular singer My Tam had won a local vote to represent Vietnam in the Best Worldwide Act category at the MTV European Music Awards (MTV EMA) 2013 in Amsterdam, the Netherlands on Nov. 10.

A poll on the Facebook page of MTV Vietnam wrapped up with an overwhelming 33,795 votes out of 68,257 for the Danang-born singer.

In 2012, she won Best Asian Artist at the Mnet Asian Music Awards (MAMA) in South Korea, the first Vietnamese artist to do so.

Other artists in the running were pop singer Dong Nhi with 20,511 votes, 365DaBand with 5,752 and Thu Minh at 3,308.

MTV Vietnam posts updated information at facebook.com/mtvvietnam.com.vn.

after five years of implementation, only 126 foreign organisations and individuals had bought houses as of the end of the second quarter, 2013. Of these, 80 percent are businesses, and the rest are individuals.

Most of the house purchases were made in southern areas such as Ho Chi Minh City, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Binh Duong and Khanh Hoa. Of these foreign individuals, most are married to Vietnamese citizens.

Nation Mulls Joint Tourist Plan International tourists travelling to Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia may be able to use a joint visa if a proposed plan is implemented.

According to Hoang Thi Diep, deputy head of the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, relevant agencies have been asked to consider a plan to enable tourists to use only a single visa when visiting the three countries. “We are happy with this since there will be more tourists if the visa policy is loosened,� she said.

The reason why Vietnam wants to cooperate with Thailand and Cambodia on this issue is to simplify procedures for international tourists, as a similar visa is being offered by the neighbouring countries. In addition, Thailand and Cambodia are close to Vietnam, and are popular locations for large numbers of tourists on their own.

At the end of last year, Thailand and Cambodia signed an agreement known as ACMECS Single Visa, enabling tourists from 35 countries and territories to use a single visa when entering the two countries. Most of the countries and territories also send a large number of tourists to Vietnam — with Europe, Australia, the US, Hong Kong, Japan, China and South Korea included on the list.

September 2013 Word | 43

insider Photo by Francis Roux

Tradition

Mooncake Madness On the eve of the Mid-Autumn Festival, Ed Weinberg and Hoa Le gathered together the soon-to-be-recipients of the season’s most notable gift. With two blind tastings set up, one in Hanoi and one in Saigon, they got them to take a long hard look at what’s inside those beautiful boxes. Photos by Mads Monsen and Nguyen Bao Ngoc 3 4 2

5 1

Ho Chi Minh City Tasting Date: Aug. 19

Judges:

T

Chris Donnellan, chef at Shri Kylie Cawood, creative force behind soon-to-open Lu Bu Jim Cawood, owner of Vino Bao Ross, mooncake connoisseur

Contestants Hotel Equatorial Sofitel Saigon Plaza Renaissance Riverside Hotel Shang Palace Pullman Danang Beach Resort

o listen to the judges we’ve assembled, mooncake is an acquired taste, one acquirable only through careful childhood inculcation. All our judges have mooncake experience, but only one feels much affection for them. “But Bao doesn’t like them any more, not since she’s grown up,” says Kylie with a laugh.

Mooncakes are blessings, traditions, things that come in beautiful boxes pretty good at holding tea bags after the fact. At 700 to 1,000 calories in your average mooncake, they almost beg you not to eat them.

Today’s mission, then. We’ve brought together the city’s finest, most giftable mooncakes, cut them up into upside-down

quarter-slices and marked them with anonymity-preserving numbers. It’s the eve of mooncake season, and millions of mooncakes will soon be taking up fridge space. Can we find the mooncakes to convince this group of foodies they’re not just high-priced doorstops?

All scores are out of five.

Number 4

Number 5

Number 10

The Outlier

The Napoleon Complex

The Contessa

What: ‘Green Bean’ at Pullman Danang Beach Resort Why: Only one judge rated this mooncake highly, but Bao rated this her favourite — as the only judge historically disposed to the taste.

What the judges said: Bao said, “The filling is so different compared to other normal mooncakes. So nice!” The others said “dry”, “bland”, “egg not salty”.

Scoring average: Crust — 2 // Filling — 2.25 // Tastiness — 2 // Creativity — 1.5 Bao’s score sheet: Crust — 4 // Filling — 4 // Tastiness — 5 // Creativity — 5

What: ‘Pandan Mung Bean Paste’ at Shang Palace Why: Like Rocky Marciano this bruiser punches above his weight, to a consensus win in the first plating of five.

What the judges said: They picked up a hint of “vanilla”, infusing the “light pastry” with an “aromatic” quality. It was “really tasty, moist, the best on plate one”.

Scoring average: Crust — 3.5 // Filling — 4 // Tastiness — 4 // Creativity — 3.75 The details: VND595,000+ for a box of eight, four baked, four frozen. Call (08) 3823 2221 for more information.

What: ‘Tiramisu 1 Yolk’ at Hotel Equatorial Why: She mixes it up — a little bit espresso and a little bit ca phe sua da. In a field full of traditionalists, she gives the holidays a welltravelled flair.

What our judges said: “It tastes like airline coffee” or “my daily ca phe sua da”. When pressed, Kylie said, “They’ll probably say something like ‘tiramisu’.” Ignoring the controversy, Bao felt it “tastes good, cool!”

Score average: Crust — 2.75 // Filling — 2.25 // Tastiness — 2.5 // Creativity — 1.75 The details: Boxes of four start at VND598,000 net. Visit the mooncake booth in the hotel lobby, call (08) 3839 7777 ext.

8057 or email dine@hcm.equatorial.com.

46 | Word September 2013

1. Pullman Danang Beach Resort 2. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 3. Shang Palace 4. Renaissance Riverside Hotel 5. Hotel Equatorial

Packaging 1. Renaissance Riverside Hotel 2. Sofitel Saigon Plaza 3. Shang Palace 4. Hotel Equatorial 1

2

3

Number 13

Number 16

The Flower Child

The Sweet Tooth

What: ‘Green Tea’ at Renaissance Riverside Hotel Why: It made the judges pursue additional nibbles in search of its elusive, “peachy” flavour, 13 rounds and hundreds of calories into the competition.

What our judges said: It hit that judgepleasing sweet spot of “not too sweet, not too heavy”, inspiring descriptions like “floral” and “aromatic”. Three of four judges wrote the uncommon mooncake attribute “peach” on their score sheets.

Score average: Crust — 3.25 // Filling — 3.75 // Tastiness — 4.25 // Creativity — 3.75 The details: VND789,000 net for a box of four. Call (08) 3822 0033 or email my.vo@ renaissance-saigon.com.

What: ‘Pure Lotus Double Yolk’ at Sofitel Saigon Plaza Why: Sometimes you just need to pack in the sugar for the holiday season, and Sofitel’s offering does it with a nice, honeyed touch.

What the judges said: They talked about the “nice crust” and the “not dry” qualities. Two of the more enthusiastic panelists noted that the “caramel honey flavour is good”.

Scoring average: Crust — 3 // Filling — 2.5 // Tastiness — 2.75 // Creativity — 2.5 The details: An assortment of four is available in a box our mooncake plater noted “looks like a wedding album”, and is priced at VND788,888+. Eight-packs are available at VND988,888+. For more info, call (08) 38241 555 or email h2077-fb1@sofitel.com.

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September 2013 Word | 47

Hanoi Tasting 3 4 2

5 1

Hanoi Tasting Date: Aug. 20

Judges:

Contestants:

Tracey Lister, director of Hanoi Cooking Centre Duyen Pham, chef at Hanoi Cooking Centre Nguyen Qui Duc, owner of Tadioto Thao Nguyen, general manager of Pots ’n Pans Son Nguyen, sales and marketing manager of Press Club

Sheraton Hanoi Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake Mövenpick Hanoi Crowne Plaza Hilton Hanoi Opera

L

ooking at the names on the Hanoi judge list, one might rightly assume a higher proportion of mooncake traditionalists than in the southern tasting. They represent the new guard of

Hanoi culinary traditions, but they know a good mooncake when they see one. And they saw quite a few on this particular day.

All scores are out of five.

Number 2

Number 13

Number 14

The Magical Field

The Princess of the Forest

The Feast

What: ‘Green Tea, Mung Bean, 1 Yolk’ at Hilton Hanoi Opera Why: Balance makes perfection. The bitterness of the green tea is nicely balanced by the sweetness and smoothness of the mung bean paste.

What our judges said: All agreed on its “smooth texture”. But they had differences of opinion on the crust. Tracey said it was a little chewy but Son loved it. “Nice crust with a good amount of salted egg,” he declared.

Score average: Crust — 3.8 // Filling — 3.1 // Tastiness — 3.1 // Creativity — 3.5 The details: Boxes of four start at VND650,000 net. Call (04) 3933 0500 or email thienhanhtrang.le@hilton.com to place an order.

What: ‘Chestnut’ at Crowne Plaza Why: It’s an elegant piece of art, with a fine crust, beautiful colour, good texture and a smooth filling.

What our judges said: “Best one in the round!” with a “light feeling” and “balanced taste”.

Score average: Crust — 3.5 // Filling — 3.7 // Tastiness — 3.9 // Creativity — 3.4 The details: Boxes of four start at VND580,000 net. Call (04) 6270 6688 or email fb@crowneplazawesthanoi.com to order.

What: ‘Mixed Nut’ at Sheraton Hanoi Why: Taste it to get close to the traditional mooncake of Vietnam — banh nuong thap cam (‘10 different flavour-baked mooncake’).

Its name says it all. Get ready to indulge yourself with a variety of nuts including melon seeds, walnuts, almonds, white sesame and more.

What our judges said: “Moist crust, filling not too sweet,” said one, and the others agreed. “The flavour gets close to the traditional moon cake”, but one with a “rich texture”.

Score average: Crust — 3.8 // Filling — 3.5 // Tastiness — 3.6 // Creativity — 3.3 The details: Boxes of six start at VND750,000 net. Call (04) 3719 9000 to order.

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Special thanks to Bluebird (Hanoi) and Vino 2 (Ho Chi Minh City) for letting us use their premises for our two tastings

1. Hilton Hanoi Opera 2. Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake 3. Crowne Plaza West Hanoi 4. Sheraton Hanoi 5. Mövenpick Hotel

Packaging 1. Hilton Hanoi Opera 2. Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake 3. Sheraton Hanoi 4. Mövenpick Hanoi

1

2

Number 15

Number 16

Song of the Countryside

The Power of Creativity

What: ‘Pandan Leaf with Lotus Nuts’ at Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake Why: The fresh scent of the pandan leaf from this cake can satisfy anyone who has a nostalgia for the countryside. The taste is familiar but exotic at the same time.

The beautiful green colour of the filling is wrapped inside the perfect golden baked crust. Lotus seeds in the filling finish this masterpiece.

What our judges said: “Fabulous look!” said Duc. Thao added, “And a nice surprising aftertaste” with “subtle flavour”.

Score average: Crust — 3.8 // Filling — 4.1 // Tastiness — 4.0 // Creativity — 4.1 The details: Boxes of four start at VND808,500 net. Call (04) 6270 8888 or email manager.pr@ihg.com.

What: ‘Tiramisu’ at Mövenpick Why: Its lovely coffee taste. It’s a wonderful twist of the Italian recipe with the original feeling of mooncakes. And it got the maximum creativity scores from three of our judges.

What our judges said: “It’s the feeling of tiramisu, but not totally it,” said Duc. “And that’s the awesome creativity that I love.”

But Son said, “Too sweet for me!” while Tracey concluded, “I like the mung bean filling better.”

Score average: Crust — 3.8 // Filling — 4.1 // Tastiness — 4.1 // Creativity — 4.6 The details: Boxes of four start at VND680,000 net. Visit the mooncake booth in the hotel lobby, call (04) 3822 2800 or email your orders to thuy.nghiem@moevenpick.com.

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4

September 2013 Word | 49

D e s t i n at i o n

Pho n g

Nha Photo by Francis Roux

A 50 | Word September 2013

trip to the international space station on board a Russian Soyuz spacecraft costs from US$20 million, and requires months of pre-mission training. Only a few select individuals have made the flight.

A trip to the caves of Phong Nha, home to the world’s largest cave, costs a mere fraction of the price. The oxygen comes free.

Here, you won’t have the gravity-less sensation of floating in space or seeing the planet upon which you were born recede before your eyes. But you will be more

likely to feel like you’re stepping on Mars or walking on the moon.

The caves’ unearthly rock formations and unworldly ecosystems may not be off-this-planet. But they might as well be. The uniqueness of the underground, light-deprived environment formed out of earth, water and rock creates a celestial atmosphere, a different world.

Add to this limestone karst mountain ranges and virgin rainforest and you have Phong Nha, the latest destination to open up to tourists.

Fact File N ame : Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park L ocation : Quang Binh, 180km north of Hue, 500km south of Hanoi

S ize : 858 km2 T opography : One of the world’s two largest karst regions and the largest in Southeast Asia. Half of this region is in Vietnam, the other half is in Laos. Home to 300 caves, and many more which lay undiscovered

F lora

and F auna : Covered by dense, tropical evergreen forest on limestone. 92.2 percent is intact primeval forest. Contains the most biodiversity in Vietnam and is home to a number of endangered animal species, including the pig-tailed macaque, the white-cheeked crested gibbon, three types of langur, the giant muntjac and the Asian black bear

T ourism A ctivities : Caving, mountain

climbing, hiking and trekking, ecotourism

Words by Hoa Le, Marc Forster-Pert and Nick Ross Photos by Francis Roux September 2013 Word | 51

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Paradise

Found

A trip to Phong Nha is more than just caves. It’s a trip to another world. Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Francis Roux

September 2013 Word | 53

“I

t’s a bit Jurassic Park here,” says Ben Mitchell as we go through the turnstiles.

“What do you mean?”

“The golf buggies,” he explains. “You know how they were driven through the jungle? It’s kind of the same here, just without the dinosaurs.”

We’re at the base of the mountain that leads to the entrance of Paradise Cave, or Hang Vom, a site claimed by the Vietnamese press to be one of the most impressive in the country. With a quorum of notable destinations already on the list, this is quite an accolade.

Following Ben’s suggestion, when we descend from the golf buggy, we take the ramp to the right 500m up to the cave entrance rather than the steps. It is good advice. While exploring the well mappedout, manicured interior of the cave isn’t tough work, the steps would have made us breathless even before entering the cavern.

We are on the first of a five-day trip to Phong Nha, and Ben is guiding us around the park in his pickup. One of a small number of people who lives and breathes Phong Nha — together with his wife Bich he runs Phong Nha Farmstay, the first western-run guest house in the area — his local knowledge is matched by his passion.

Like other zealous individuals we meet on our trip, both Vietnamese and foreign, Ben is the park.

Paradise Cave is surprising. All in our group are used to the lack of organisation and the lack of care taken over some of Vietnam’s most beautiful spots. Hong Chong, on the southern edge of the Mekong Delta, comes to mind. Described once as the Halong Bay of the south, a cave pagoda leads out onto a sandy bay with limestone karsts peaking out from the sea. But instead of providing a spiritual experience, a pilgrimage, the beach is dirty. Tourists on the road leading to the pagoda are accosted by beggars and stallholders pedaling their wares.

Here it is different. Litter bins are at every 20m, with signs encouraging tourists to put their waste in the appropriate places.

Additional encouragement along the lines of ‘Rung la vang’, or ‘the jungle is gold’, appears intermittently along the trails to and from the caves. And anyone who steps outside the wooden walkways of the cave is tasered by security. A harsh response, perhaps, but with the unruliness of almost 2,000 tourists a day in high season, a necessary preventative measure.

Above and Below

Descending the dimly-lit steps into the cave a cavern opens out before us. Our guide explains the difference between stalagmites and stalactites — the latter come down from the cave roof — and adds that we shouldn’t touch them. If we do, she says, it may prevent further growth. In the caves in Halong Bay, such instructions are never

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given, and if they are, they are ignored.

At the bottom the steps open out into a wooden walkway. Five years ago I visited Phong Nha Cave, once the only accessible spot in the park. Taking what was then a not-so-popular day trip from Hue, on arrival we took a boat down the Son River before entering the main grotto. Multi-coloured lights lit up the rock formations, the noise of boatloads of tourists echoed through the corridors, and — while a pleasant trip — as I left I found myself more fascinated by the surrounding mountains and jungle than what lay inside.

Paradise Cave also has the lighting, but without the multi-coloured, discolike display. And as you wander past the grottoes, the rock formations and through corridors both large and small, you gradually become aware of this cave’s beauty and of the world-class setup. The management, the tour guides, the security,

As you wander past the grottoes, the rock formations and through corridors both large and small, you gradually become aware of this cave’s beauty and of the world-class setup

the wooden walkways, the signage and even the golf buggies. No wonder it has received such local accolades. Paradise Cave would work anywhere in the world.

More to Come

Our drive to Paradise Cave is punctuated by a walk on the Nuoc Mooc Nature Trail — the water levels are too high for us to follow the whole trek — and by Ben’s constant explanation of the ins and outs of Phong Nha. He seems to have a knowledge about the area few can surpass. From the former airstrip now transformed into a road, to the crossroads at Tra An Bridge that formed a major intersection along the former Ho Chi Minh Trail, to the cliff face that was constantly bombed to close the pass along which diesel supplies were carried by the Viet Minh.

As we gradually head back to Ben’s

farmstay, our excitement grows. The next day we are taking a one-day trek through two river caves in the Tu Lan cave system, on the edge of but just outside the national park. And on the Sunday, two of us will be tackling Hang En, the cave that was featured in National Geographic alongside Hang Son Doong, the largest cave in the world.

Compared to when I was here five years ago — to quote a cliché — it is like being on a different planet. All that forest and karst that I spied is now opening up, and new caves, it seems, are discovered by the week.

The park has three cave systems — Phong Nha, Vom and Nuoc Mooc — of which the latter is as of yet completely unexplored.

And speleologists believe there may even be bigger caves out there than Son Doong.

Which means that the tourist possibilities — for both the easy and the more difficult trips — are endless. Just don’t bring in the cable car.

September 2013 Word | 55

In the

Zone

From war zone to a tourism hotspot, Quang Binh has undergone a transformation that 40 years ago would have been unthought of. Words by Hoa Le. Photo by Francis Roux

If someone asks why we have so many new tiles Do you understand that our happy life today was built up from the harsh past?

If someone asks why our rice fields are so prosperous Do you remember those old days when we were so poor?

T

he first four lines of the famous song Quang Binh [Quang Binh Que Ta Oi] seem to sum up the history and life of people in this central province of Vietnam. Lying just 100km away from the former Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), the land of “dry winds and white sand” was once one of the fiercest battlegrounds in the country.

“In 1972, the lives of people here were counted by hours, not even by days,” says Minh, a 68-year-old villager from Cu Nam Village on the edge of Phong Nha. The devastation of the war, difficult access to major cities such as Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City and the “belly button” of floods, storms and regular drought often saw Quang Binh struggling to fight poverty. However, the home province of General Vo Nguyen Giap has been blessed by nature and the potential to develop a flourishing tourism industry.

In the last few years the cogs have started to click and Quang Binh, it seems, is turning the corner.

The National Park

Few tourists had heard of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park until 2003, when it was

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granted world heritage status by UNESCO for its geological values. Phong Nha is part of a larger, dissected plateau, which also encompasses the Ke Bang and Lao Hin Namno karsts in Laos. Researchers say the plateau is the finest and most distinctive example of a complex karst landform in Southeast Asia. The enormous landmass stretching over 200,000 hectares has fantastic limestone formations, grottoes, caves and a luxuriant tropical rainforest that remains mostly pristine. The complexity of the shale and sandstone of the limestone karsts together with the capping of schists and granite has led to a particularly distinctive topography.

In the last 10 years, more regular cave exploration has taken place in often remote areas of jungle. Three distinct cave systems have been recognised with many magnificient river caves: Hang Vom, Phong Nha and the as yet unexplored Nuoc Mooc.

Howard Limbert, who has been caving in the area for over 20 years, says that Hang Vom is “one of the finest river caves in the world”.

In 2009, Limbert and an English expedition team explored Hang Son Doong

with the help of a former local logger, Ho Khanh. The 9km-long orifice was later confirmed as the world’s biggest cave.

Inside the team discovered the unearthly formations of ethereal stalagmites, sections with jungle inside the cavern, and colossal cave pearls, some with a diameter of 10cm.

Besides over 300 caves that have been explored and many that haven’t, Phong Nha-Ke Bang also has global significance for conservation thanks to its primitive tropical forest. Nine of the 21 primate species in Vietnam are recorded here. The forest also houses over 100 families of highly-rated plants, of which 36 species are endangered and listed in the Vietnam Red Book.

Tourism Boom

“The mountain ranges and caves were used as shelter for soldiers during the war,” continues Minh. “And those giant caves were once the parking lots for helicopters.”

He adds: “I never thought tourism could be the key thing in this area. There were no roads, only jungle. So the mountains looked remote, although we were only 7km away.”

In early 2010, Minh’s daughter, Bich, and her Australian husband, Ben Mitchell,

Besides over 300 caves that have been explored and many that haven’t, Phong Nha-Ke Bang also has global significance for conservation thanks to its primitive tropical forest decided to build a hotel on a plot of land a few doors down from his house. Minh was doubtful about their plans.

But three years later, not just Ben and Bich’s farmstay but many other tourist companies and farmstays have been attracted to the area. In October 2010, the Truong Thinh Group began providing access roads to Paradise Cave and transformed it into a tourist facility. The project was met with an overwhelmingly positive response by the Vietnamese press.

Since then, many cave exploring packages have been made available to tourists by a variety of companies including the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park management group, the Truong Thinh group and Oxalis.

Nguyen Chau A, the Quang Binh-born businessman who is founder and owner of Oxalis — the first company to operate tours taking tourists to Son Doong — says he had foreseen the tourism potential of the area.

“Before 2011, the average time that a tourist stayed in Phong Nha was 0.8 days, which means very few people stayed overnight,” he says. “But I thought the park had great potential, so I decided to set up a

tour company to provide adventure tours and services to attract tourists to come here and stay longer.”

Since its beginnings in 2011, the company has quickly built a reliable reputation for both safety and well-organised tours. They operate in some of the more difficult-to-getto areas of the park that are accessible to tourists.

The 2005 completion of the Ho Chi Minh trail, the highway that connects the northern and southern sections of Vietnam, and which passes through the mountainous areas of Quang Binh, is also given credit for the tourist boom by providing better access to the area.

The Future in our hands

It’s a sunny day outside Phong Nha cave.

Huong, owner of one of 310 boats that take tourists into the cave, points out her younger brother, who just turned 16 the month before he started work. She says most young people like her brother and herself are still struggling to find a job that sustains their living in the region.

“My parents started this business after the opening of Phong Nha Cave, 15 years ago,”

she says. “Now it’s me and my brother’s turn to take it over.”

But on the busiest months in the summer, she has only about two to three trips a week, which earns her and her brother less than VND2 million a month.

Thanh, a cleaning woman from one of the hotels in Phong Nha, says her husband went to Russia two years ago for work as a labourer.

“It’s common for men here to go to other major cities or abroad to look for jobs,” explains the 31-year-old. “It’s now illegal to go hunting or search for timber in the forest, and the farm work doesn’t bring us enough income.” Thanh, however, has been lucky because she now has a job earning her a stable income outside of the farming seasons.

Poverty, once the major challenge in Quang Binh, still requires work to be left behind completely. Along with the continuing discovery of new caves and the province’s promise to create a sustainable form of tourism, it’s hoped that one day in the near future, Huong and Thanh and other local people like them will lead better lives.

September 2013 Word | 57

Following the air, he ended up entering a giant space inside a cave, which is now one of the entrances to the middle of Paradise Cave. “The cave was so beautiful, with amazing formations, that I thought I had gotten lost in heaven,” he says, saying that’s the reason he called it ‘paradise’

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Ngo Van Phong

Discoverer of Vom Cave (also known as Paradise Cave)

W

ith his white shirt tucked carefully into dark blue trousers, Phong has the outlook of an official rather than a forest man. Few know that he was the person who discovered the spectacular Paradise Cave.

Since its opening to public access in 2010, this 34km-long cave has now become one of the two most popular tourist spots in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park for its amazing stalactites and stalagmites. But becoming synonymous with his discovery is clearly not this humble man’s goal.

“I go and look for new caves only because I like doing that,” he says. “It feels great when you step on a route that no one has gone on before. And it’s even greater if you discover a beautiful cave.”

The brother-in-law of Ho Khanh — the man who discovered Son Doong, the largest cave in the world — Phong spent 15 years in the jungle as a worker for the national project to build a primate rescue centre and a centre for biodiversity research. During this period he trekked to karst caves high up in the mountains in search of primates.

On a normal day, he walked for an average of 10km to 12km in the jungle. During one of those trips, while looking for water to drink, Phong felt the flow of cold air coming out from the forest.

“This often means there is water underneath,” he explains. Following the air, he ended up entering a giant space inside a cave, which is now one of the entrances to Paradise Cave. “The cave was so beautiful, with amazing formations, that I thought I had gotten lost in heaven,” he says, saying that’s the reason he called it ‘paradise’.

Besides discovering what turned out to be the longest cave in Asia, Phong has also stumbled across dozens of other caves in the area.

“There are a lot more caves that haven’t been found deep inside the forest,” he says, expressing his hope to continue his work exploring the area.

This father of four loves his work so much that he is now passing it onto his children.

His oldest son is already taking tourists on cave exploration trips. — Hoa Le

Khanh rediscovered Son Doong Cave in 2008, but it was in 1990 that he first stumbled upon it while searching for timber

Ho Khanh

Discoverer of Son Doong

“H

e’s a perfectionist. He didn’t just discover a cave. He discovered the world’s largest one.” That was what I was told about Ho Khanh, the man who discovered Son Doong.

Khanh possesses darkly tanned skin, bright eyes and a decisive manner. He has not only a library’s worth of stories to tell about his discovery of 30-something caves in the area, but also an interesting account of how he changed from a jungle man who used to exploit trees for timber into a man now fighting for environmental protection of the forest and the caves.

Born in 1969 in Bo Trach, a town surrounded by mountains, jungle, rivers and rice fields, when he turned 16, Khanh started to follow his older friends into the massive Phong Nha forest to look for rare and valuable aloe wood, which was then sold at a high price.

“We were very poor,” he recalls. “And that was what everybody in my area was doing for a living. There was no timber conservation law enforced at that time.”

He went into the jungle for days and nights, to caves deep in the forest to look for the trees, but not every trip was ‘successful’

and he often returned home empty handed.

In 1992, Khanh went back to farming. His long experience in the forest, passion and a good sense of direction had given him an indepth understanding of the area.

In 2005 he met British speleologist Howard Limbert, a caving expert. It was the turning point. Hired to search for caves for Howard’s team, he was happy to return to the forest, this time for a good cause.

Khanh rediscovered Son Doong Cave in 2008, but it was in 1990 that he first stumbled upon it while searching for timber. With the encouragement of Howard, in 2007 he went on a trip to find it again, but failed. A year later, Khanh tried again — and this time, on his second day in the jungle, he discovered the entrance. He entered the cave and went down about 70m or 80m until he reached the first lake. He then returned home.

In 2009, Ho Khanh took Howard and a British cave exploration team on a special Son Doong exploration trip. The rock formations were both massive and otherworldly. The cave was explored and measured, and was discovered to be the world’s largest.

“I knew that it was big,” says Khanh with a smile. “But I never thought that it would be that huge.”

Today, he continues his work as a lead porter for caving teams, totalling as many as 70 people. He manages them well and ensures they follow all the environmental protection regulations that he insists on during the trip. He has also become a Phong Nha elder — professional cave exploration teams now seek his advice on weather conditions or any forest-related issues before going into caves. However, Khanh is determined never to take an office job.

“I still love the forest and I love going to explore new caves,” he says.

He has already planned a cave exploration for 2014, and with so much of the national park unexplored, it’s not impossible that another world record cave may be discovered. — Hoa Le

September 2013 Word | 59

“After 22 years travelling back and forth between England and Vietnam to explore caves in Phong Nha, we’ve been able to build trust with the people here. They now understand what we are doing, and things have been very smooth and easy”

I

met Howard and Deb Limbert the evening before they led a group of adventurous tourists on an epic six-day trip to the world’s largest cave, Hang Son Doong.

Although the cave was discovered in 2009 and opened to the public on Aug. 1 of this year, even now tourists are not allowed to access this magnificent system without the accompaniment of the team led by Howard and Deb. This is partly due to the geographical complexity of the area, but also conservation concerns, which put a limit on the number of people who can access the cave.

Howard and Deb have gained the trust of the local government as a result of their excellent caving experience, their love for the karst massif and in particular their passion to protect the park’s environment and biodiversity.

“After 22 years travelling back and forth between England and Vietnam to explore caves in Phong Nha, we’ve been able to build trust with the people here,” says Howard. “They now understand what we are doing, and things have been very smooth and easy.” Together with the Hanoi University of Science, the couple have made huge efforts to prevent the too-quick development of tourism. Instead they have pushed a sustainable version, with strict respect for the conservation of nature.

Howard and Deb first visited Vietnam in 1990. They were so keen on caving that they had travelled to Australia, New Zealand, Mexico and many parts of Europe in the search for new caves. However, they were most impressed with the Phong Nha cave

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The Limberts

British speleologists and caving expedition leaders system and the accompanying national park.

They hired local experts like Ho Khanh and Ngo Van Phong to search for new caves, because of their familiarity with the local topography.

When new caves were found, they made marks on the caves, photographed them and recorded all the information they could amass before passing it on to local governments and libraries worldwide so that the findings could be archived and shared online. The Limberts have also been the main connecting point with the media, including National Geographic, NHK Japan and the BBC, and the cave expeditions that followed. “[These expeditions] are an excellent advertisement for Vietnam and especially Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park,” says Howard, also mentioning that local people can now earn a good wage

thanks to all the media interest.

The couple also deliver English classes, regular presentations and technical training courses for tour guides in Phong Nha. “We now need to pass on a lot of information to Vietnamese people because we want them to be the guides,” says Deb. “They need jobs and they’re intelligent.”

Despite their training schedule, the couple is still searching for new caves.

“If you can imagine being the first people on the moon, [when we discover a new cave] or are the first people to ever climb a mountain, we feel very similar,” says Howard. “What’s even better is that on a mountain or even on the moon, you can see.

But when you’re in a cave, you don’t know what you’re going to find. Sometimes it’s not very good. But in Vietnam, it’s always been fantastic.” — Hoa Le

“Everyone thought we were crazy. They thought no-one would ever come to this place in the middle of nowhere to look for hotels”

Bich and Ben

Owners of Phong Nha Farmstay

“W

henever I saw an airplane flying over our heads I would shout out, wave at them and scream until my mother would hustle me into the house,” recalls Bich of her first and only contact with foreigners growing up in the village of Cu Nam in Quang Binh. Born in an area that was heavily bombed during the American War, the now-owner of Phong Nha Farmstay only got out of her village and had contact with the outside world when she turned 19. That was when she left for Hue to go to university.

“We were so poor that my mom said she would sell anything — even our house — to

support my study in Hue,” continues Bich.

“But that year the floods hit our village hard and we became even poorer.” To reduce the financial burden on her parents, she quit studying chemistry in her second year of university without them knowing.

Instead she went to Danang to work in several hotels, initially doing menial work to earn a living. She recalls how shy she was whenever she had to communicate with foreigners, because she was not used to seeing them. But strong and determined, she kept moving forward, learning and pursuing her dream.

In 2007, Bich met her Australian husband Ben in Danang. Together they had a desire to start a tourism business in her home village on the edge of Phong Nha. “I saw what the nature, the farming, the national park and the caving of this place had to offer,” says Bich.

“But people were still so poor. I was angry at myself because I couldn’t bring anything back to my hometown.”

On their first attempt, the couple met and tried to cooperate with local businesses in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park area. They failed — people were hesitant to work with foreigners. “People saw me with my Australian husband and immediately they thought we had a lot of money — they wanted to get money straight out of us.” Bich and Ben finally gave up on their plans and left Quang Binh for Thailand, and then after that to Dubai where Ben could work and earn money.

Two years later, with money saved from working abroad, the couple decided to buy a plot of land that was used to grow corn next to Bich’s brother’s house. They wanted to build a farmstay for tourists. But everybody in the village was suspicious, including Bich’s family.

“Everyone thought we were crazy,” says Ben. “They thought no one would ever come to this place in the middle of nowhere to look for hotels.”

Facing a large green paddy field, with mountains in the distance, the farmstay is now packed all year around and provides a living for many villagers. Bich’s experience in tourism and Ben’s deep interest in local language, history and culture makes the farmstay a pleasant place to stay during a visit to the national park.

The existence of Phong Nha Farmstay has also had a knock-on effect. With a constant flow of tourists coming in and out of the park and Cu Nam Village, the revenue brought in has allowed many local businesses to prosper.

Bich is proud of the achievement. “I was able to show people what we could do, even though it once seemed to be impossible.” — Hoa Le

The Tu Lan Experience Two river caves 40km from Phong Nha provided Marc Forster-Pert with an adrenalin-fuelled mix of adventure and picture postcard scenery.

Photos by Francis Roux

A

sk most Vietnamese about Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and they’ll be able to tell you about the dazzling Paradise Cave and the serene underground river in Phong Nha Cave. Both of which, exceptional in their own right, have helped transform the area into a popular destination for domestic tourists.

But those seeking an adventure have to look a little further afield. A tour to the Tu Lan cave system may well be the antidote.

The good news? There aren’t busloads of tourists. The concrete road linking the Ho Chi Minh Highway to the tour starting point in Yen Thu village hasn’t even been completed.

The Adventure Begins

Dodging the road workers, we walked a short distance to meet our ride to take

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us to the starting point — the vehicle, a repurposed US army jeep. We could have been making a sequel to Indiana Jones, heading off into the jungle as the jeep bumped and jolted its way along a dirt track past mud-grazing buffalo to the rendezvous point. Equipped with life jackets, Cambodian army boots, a helmet and a head torch, we set off looking more like coal miners than explorers.

The first task was to traverse the gentle Rao Nan River, usually crossable by foot.

Reaching the bank, the picture was far from gentle. Unseasonable rains had allowed the water to rise and the current to gain momentum. Looking at the others, I could see I wasn’t the only one a little daunted by the prospect of swimming across — thank goodness for the life jackets. A deep breath taken and a leap into the bracing river, adrenalin coursing every vein. Swimming hard to reach the opposite bank, the current took us 150m downstream.

Out of of breath, we climbed up over a ridge and into a valley surrounded by the limestone karsts that characterise the landscape. Blanketed by thick jungle, they created a scene so peaceful and spectacular, it was hard to believe this place exists, such was its majesty. It felt lagoon-like, a scene

In the Know Started by Quang Binh-born, Saigonbased businessman Nguyen Chau A, Oxalis is currently the only tour company that conducts tours to this area, offering one to six-day tours of Tu Lan. The ‘Experience’ is a one-day tour that visits two of the eight caves that have been discovered in the system.

For more information on the Tu Lan tours, email tours@oxalis.com.vn or visit oxalis. com.vn

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Safety equipment, walking boots and life jackets are provided, but Oxalis recommend bringing the following:

— Long pants and long-sleeved shirts — A change of clothing — a jumper is recommended to warm up after swims — A hat — Sun cream and mosquito repellent — A towel — Body and lens cap for your DSLR — Extra padding for your camera gear

We climbed up over a ridge and into a valley surrounded by the limestone karsts that characterise the landscape. Blanketed by thick jungle, they created a scene so peaceful and spectacular, it was hard to believe this place exists

reminiscent of those from The Beach, the water being replaced by thick scrub where butterflies leapt and jumped. A barely recognisable path charted the way to the entrance of the first cave, Hung Ton.

Darkness

There’s no danger of claustrophobia inside the enormous cavern even though it isn’t long before daylight is exchanged for complete darkness, only intercepted by a flash of a light. Reminding myself this wasn’t a dream, we walked through the cave admiring the church organ-like stalagmites and stalactites that have formed over thousands of years.

It was then time to repack the dry bag for the next swim, this time, inside the cave. Billed as moderate, swimming wasn’t actually necessary as the strong current carried us towards the waterfall out of the cave mouth. Stopping just short, we climbed out through another exit into the forest and through to the lagoon below.

The itinerary would have us visit Kim Cave, named after the Dutch tourist that discovered it after a call of nature on a jungle trek in 2009. Swimmable when the water level is lower and the current not so ferocious, Dzung, our guide, made the

decision not to venture in. The decision was vindicated when bathers inside the lagoon were sent tens of metres in a few seconds by the force of the waterfall.

Plan B was to trek back through the jungle to visit Rat Cave or Hang Chuot, no mean feat as it required traversing a steep karst ridge. Slippery from the rains, a couple of tour members lost their footing, including our very own editor.

A Feeling of Euphoria

Finally inside, tired and drenched in muddy sweat, we were met by a deafening silence.

Despite many people having already charted this course, looking up at this magical arena it was hard not to feel intrepid and believe we were just discovering this remarkable feat of Mother Nature for the first time. It felt euphoric.

After another river crossing completed, we were left exhausted, sipping cold cans of beer and soft drink. The tour was sadly over for us but thankfully it won’t be for the local villagers.

Oxalis employs 30 people locally, including our 21-year-old porter, Trung.

It serves to strengthen the local economy and make earning an illegal living through logging or hunting less tempting. Real

change will only be possible through more tour companies coming in to sustain growth, and continuing to provide jobs and protect the landscape.

They’re creating passion, too. Dzung, our guide, is someone who lives and breathes his work: “I love my job because I love the jungle. I love the caves, I love adventure and most of all we can give a helping hand to protect the environment for the next generation to enjoy.” Enjoyable was an understatement. Epic, maybe?

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Photo by Simon Dunne

So big are these mammoth, sunlit caverns that there is room enough for an entire New York City block of 40-storey buildings. There are actually wispy clouds up near the ceiling

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The Largest Cave in the

World A trek to Son Doong is like a trip to the land that time forgot. Words by Nick Ross

September 2013 Word | 65

Photo by Vietnam Caving Expedition

H

The Land of Dinosaurs

Containing the tallest stalagmite in the world — the formation is 80m high — the

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cave is home to 300 million-year-old fossils, while one section, known as The Wall of Vietnam, is over 200m high.

“Some of the skylights are 200m to 250m high,” adds Howard. “The addition of light creates a small jungle in the cave.” One such jungle area has been named The Garden of Eden.

So big are these mammoth, sunlit caverns that, as journalist Mark Jenkins wrote in the National Geographic, there is “room enough for an entire New York City block of 40-storey buildings. There are actually wispy clouds up near the ceiling.”

A member of the exploration team in 2009, he adds, “The tableau could have been created by an artist imagining how the world looked millions of years ago.”

Ben Mitchell was one of the six tourists.

“Going to Son Doong was life-changing,” he said. “When I was a kid I saw Mount Everest and later on went to Maasai Mara in Kenya. It was better than the two of them put together.”

Despite the price, the tours are proving popular — they are already fully booked until well into next year. And no wonder.

Son Doong is spectacular.

For further information on the tours go to oxalis.com.vn

Photo by Vietnam Caving Expedition

o Khanh’s discovery of Son Doong is the stuff of legend. As a young man searching for timber, he was caught in a tropical storm. He took cover in the mouth of a cave. Entering the grotto he discovered a cavern so huge that he was overwhelmed.

Years later he tried to rediscover the spot.

In 2008, on his second attempt, he found the entrance and went inside. A few months on he came back with British speleologist Howard Limbert and a British cave exploration team.

In August of this year, Khanh and Howard led the first tourist expedition to Son Doong.

The seven-day trek took six tourists into the confines of the world’s largest cave, supported by a team of 23 porters and guides. The trip cost US$3,000 (VND63 million) per person, which paid for three nights sleeping in the cave.

Says Howard, “Many people wanted to open up Son Doong for mass tourism. But eventually a proposal was accepted to take through 84 people a year.” The tours run twice a month from February to August.

Photo by Michael Morehouse

Many people wanted to open up Son Doong for mass tourism. But eventually a proposal was accepted to take through 84 people a year

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Cave of 100,000

Swallows Nick Ross and Francis Roux took a grueling, two-day trip to Hang En, the cave of a hundred thousand swallows 68 | Word September 2013

When we set off to Hang En the day before, this was our goal: to reach a cave that has been featured in documentaries by the BBC and National Geographic

September 2013 Word | 69

A

quarter-to-six in the morning and the shrill, high-pitched chatter of thousands of swallows continues apace. We’ve asked how many live in this cave, but no one is sure. Well over a hundred thousand? Throughout the night the birds have been on the go, their tiny voices merging together into an orchestra of conductorless sound, a reminder of where we are.

When we set off to Hang En the day before, this was our goal: to reach a cave that has been featured in documentaries by the BBC and National Geographic. We had been told that short of a 7km potholing trip to the end of Paradise Cave and the big one, the sixday trip to Hang Son Doong, that this was the best caving excursion available. Yet at points during our first day’s trek it felt like madness.

Why walk five hours through jungle, across rivers, and down a ravine known semiaffectionately by an English expletive just to reach a cave? Pain and duress for the sake of what? Going inside a cavern?

Little did we know.

In fairness the 7km trek, while a recipe for sore limbs and aching bones, was exhilarating. When you pass by the mountains and jungles of Vietnam, stare at the peaks above and the valleys below,

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there is an intrigue. What is inside? What’s it like in this impenetrable mass of trees, undergrowth and limestone rock?

Now we were inside. Now we had passed through an isolated, untouristed ethnic minority village. And at points the soaring views and the forever changing terrain were quite beautiful. It’s a beauty that you can only experience by being there, but well-compositioned photos and well-crafted words can at least help you get a sense of it.

The Beach

It’s gone 6.15am and two of us are on an early breakfast of Berocca and three-in-one coffee. The porters — a word that invokes images of khaki-clad colonials trekking through Africa — are at work preparing the first, early morning event. On the makeshift fire, hand-cut chips are sizzling in a pan.

Fried noodles are on the menu for when we come back from exploring the rest of the cave, but for now it’s still early and four of our group of seven still sleep in their oneman tents.

Everything we have here has been handcarried in red waterproof backpacks — these 50kg backpacks have been through the searing tropical sun and its unforgiving heat. The porters don’t break a sweat. They

are faster than us, too. Scrambling up and down rocks, wading through the river, they are sure of foot, hardy, jungle-trained from birth. The night before they pitched our tents on a beach inside the main cavern, and for dinner they cooked us a meal of barbecued pork, tofu in tomato sauce, stir-fried beef with pineapple, omelette and cabbage broth. Now, again, they are on breakfast.

6.30am. The light is seeping through the cave entrance, 100m above. “It’s not every day that you wake up in a cave,” says one of our group, stretching his arms before heading to the river to wash his face and collect his drying clothes.

Only a few minutes before, the cave had that pale blue luminance of fluorescent light.

Now an orange glow has fed into the colour mix. From the National Geographic photos, the ones that hit the world in early 2011, we thought that the cave entrance was at ground level. While visually awe-inspiring — the greens of the forest mixed in with the greys and beige of the rock formations — it feels like it was misrepresented.

Now in the cave we think we can see how those photos were taken. The photographer scrambled up the rocks on the far end of the 80 metre-high cavern, while his model

climbed the rocks to the cave entrance.

The idea was to give a sense of size, a perception of scale. The tiny human stood in the entrance, while around him loomed the Mars-like, extraterrestrial majesty of the caves.

Each photo on that expedition, which started at Hang En before going into Son Doong, took four-and-a-half hours to set up and used US$2,500 of lighting equipment.

The photos and the expedition finally put the previously untapped Phong Nha on the international map.

Men on Mars

An hour has passed, toilet break has been made, and chips, fruit and Vietnamese packaged cake snacks have been eaten to get up the energy levels. Still the birds frolic, tweet and socialise way up above. We prepare to explore the cave.

Once again we cross the river, but this time we head in the opposite direction, away from the original entrance. Scrambling up rocks, the limestone seems to change colour, from blue to purple to a deep green.

Then, as we clamber over some more boulders, a new sight hits our faces. From another entrance light streams in, shadowed by jungle-covered mountains behind. Below

emerges the river, surrounded by another muddy beach, while beyond is an unearthly landscape, the kind you see in sci-fi movies.

Words in the English language — indeed in any language — just cannot describe it.

This is what we came here for — not just to see the caves, but to experience what a lack of sunlight, rock formations created over millions of years and what that beast called nature can do to an underground landscape. It’s like diving in the sea. Once you go below the surface you enter another world. But here the world is a concoction of land, rock and fresh water, the three merging to create strange shapes, unfamiliar forms that you might expect to find on Mars.

Once again we try to take photos, try to put the scale and the magnitude of the place inside the cocoon of a lens. As we prepare the setup — the tiny figure caught from afar — I see vines hanging from various parts of the cave walls and ask our guide, Thin, what they are for.

“They were put there by the locals, by the ethnic minorities in the park,” he explains.

“They climb up there for birds’ nests and eggs.”

“With no safety ropes?” The cave walls are sheer, at a 90-degree angle from the base below.

“With no safety ropes.”

He picks up a handful of the droppings covering the rocks. “They collect this for fertiliser,” he adds.

The End of the Road

Later that day as we sit on the bus leaving the area, our group reflects on what we had just experienced. There was the old man and owl in the ethnic minority village, the jungle honey they sold us by the litre, the bananas and the intrigued kids. There was the final climb at terrible hill that had most of us in a state of physical despair. There was the night before, drinking hand-carried rice wine in the cave. There was the river that we forded again and again on our trek to Hang En, the same river that then goes onto Son Doong. There were the porters, the leeches, the photos we all took.

So many things. So many memories. And with it came the realisation of where we’d just been.

Hang En, one of the natural wonders of the world.

And we hadn’t even ventured into Son Doong, the cave making all the headlines.

As speleologist Howard Limbert says, “Hang En is the biggest wow factor in Vietnam on a reasonable price scale.”

September 2013 Word | 71

Sơn Trạch Hang Phong Nha

Hang Tối

Hang Vòm

Hang Duật (Mê Cung) Hang Cá Hang Vượt Hang Vòm

VIE

TN

Photo by Francis Roux

LA OS

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AM

Hang Đại Cáo Hang Hổ Rục Cà roòng

Hang Chà An Hang Thung Hang Sơn Đoòng Hang Khe Ry

Hang Én

Hang Khe Tiên

Hang Cá Hang Lạnh

Accommodation Thanh Dat

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 367 7328 thanhdatphongnha.com A Vietnamese-style guesthouse used by the British Caving Association and the team from National Geographic. Aircon rooms with WiFi start at VND250,000 a night.

Saigon - Phong Nha

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 367 7016 sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.com.vn Part of the Saigon Tourist group, this hotel has the best location in Son Trach with a great riverside and mountain view. Rooms including breakfast start at VND690,000 for two people.

Easy Tiger and Jungle Bar Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 367 7844 easytigerphongnha@gmail.com A hostel and street-front bar all in one.

Has a pleasant, airy atmosphere in the bar and restaurant area while the 52 dorm beds — four beds to a room — go for US$8 (VND168,000) each a night.

Phong Nha Farmstay

Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 367 5135 phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com phong-nha-cave.com The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this well-appointed travellers’ joint has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool out back and views overlooking paddy fields and mountains. Rooms start at VND600,000 for a twin or double, with a family room for five costing VND1.4 million a night.

Pepper House

Tel: 01678 731560 pepperhouse-homestay.com Located outside the main drag, this guesthouse is a traditional Vietnamese wooden family house turned into a homestay. Compost toilets, a small dormitory and double beds in the main house area mix with a typical rural country atmosphere. The only thing that breaks the idyll is the existence of WiFi. Accommodation starts at VND200,000 a night including breakfast.

Ho Khanh's Homestay

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: 01299 597182 phong-nha-homestay.com Opened at the end of August next to the river, guests of Ho Khanh, the discoverer of the largest cave in the world, stay in a small, hand-built wooden house. Great views mix with a relaxed atmosphere. Accommodation is from US$25 (VND525,000) a night.

Phong Nha Lake Resort

Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel : (052) 367 5999 phongnhalakehouse.com Comfortable accommodation overlooking a beautiful, natural landscape. Has a relaxing restaurant and bar area, with dormitory beds going for US$8 (VND168,000). Double rooms start at US$30 (VND620,000) a night.

Getting There Air

Vietnam Airlines provides daily flights from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi to Dong Hoi Airport.

Train

The following train services stop in Dong Hoi — SE1, SE3, SE5, SE7 and SE19. The trip from Hanoi takes nine to 10 hours.

Alternatively you can hop on the train at Hue, a three-hour journey. A shuttle service between Dong Hoi Station and Phong NhaKe Bang National Park costs VND100,000 a person.

Bus

Phong Nha Farmstay and Hue Backpackers run a daily bus service between the two destinations that costs VND500,000 and also stops at Vinh Moc Tunnels and Ben Hai Bridge in the DMZ along the way. The trip takes five hours. For further information email phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com.

Eating and Drinking Besides the offerings at the various farmstays and homestays, below are a few other places selling food and drink in Phong Nha.

Cavern Bar

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 367 7677 Owned by Dzung who works for Oxalis.

Built from wooden columns with a tile roof, has a pleasant, open-air atmosphere, with a pebbled, cave-like floor.

Vung Hue

Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Tel: (052) 350 3255

Probably the best Vietnamese food in town, this two-storey eatery is owned by a HueQuang Binh couple. Once had a riverside location before Saigon Tourist moved in and chucked them out.

The Pub With Cold Beer

Khuong Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach, Quang Binh Take the dirt track past Pepper House, follow it up and around the valley, turn right at the sign, ford the river, turn left at the sign

and, phew, you will eventually come to the Pub with Cold Beer, probably the remotest and most charming bar in Vietnam. Set amid a cassava and pine tree plantation, with the mountains and jungle soaring beyond, this local house turned into a chill-out joint for travellers is a pleasant spot to take in a beer or three. Usually reached by tourists renting bicycles.

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INSIDER

Banh Mi, Remixed A new generation of North American chefs is reinventing Vietnam’s iconic sandwich.

Smoked gouda or portobellos, anyone? Words by Elisabeth Rosen 1

“W

e’re not authentic,” Ali Fong says. Perched on a stainless steel stool at Bon Me, the Boston restaurant she and her husband started, Fong gestures to the Instagram photo collage mounted on the wall. Green snippets of cilantro loom large, sprinkled over heaps of brown rice and soba noodles. “You could go to Chinatown and get a traditional banh mi.

Customers come here because we put a spin on it.”

In the 1970s and 1980s, thousands of Vietnamese settled in the US and Canada, and they brought banh mi with them.

Because the new immigrants came mostly from the Ho Chi Minh City area, the banh mi they sold were nearly always Southernstyle: crusty rolls laden with cold cuts, pate, herbs and colourful pickled vegetables.

You can still find those sandwiches around North American Chinatowns, from Boston to San Francisco. But in the last few years, the sandwich became fodder for interpretation for chefs like Fong, whose upscale interpretations of banh mi replace the traditional components with creative ingredients.

Getting the Ball Rolling Before the early 2000s, banh mi could only be found in Vietnamese enclaves. But when

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Vietnamese-American chef Michael Huynh opened Baoguette in 2008, he introduced the sandwich to New York City foodies.

Alongside classic fillings like pork, terrine and pate, there was the Sloppy Bao, a roll slathered in spicy curried beef and sliced green mango that drew on both Huynh’s childhood in Vietnam and the American culture he encountered after moving to the US in 1982. “Growing up in America, I ate Sloppy Joes in high school,” the chef explains.

Following Huynh’s lead, inventive sandwich shops cropped up throughout the city. Silent H offered banh mi made with kielbasa from local Polish butcher shops. Nha Toi pioneered the pho banh mi, stacked with braised beef, Thai basil and crunchy bean sprouts. “When people found out I was Vietnamese, they would tell me how much they loved banh mi and how much they loved pho. It was only a matter of time before I crossbred the two,” says creator Fred Hua, who grew up in San Jose, California — the largest Vietnamese community in the US — and worked as a line cook at one of Huynh’s restaurants before opening his own joint.

The banh mi craze shows no signs of slowing down. At Bunker, a new Vietnamese restaurant in an industrial Brooklyn neighbourhood, chef Jimmy Tu

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recreates street food dishes like pho and banh xeo as well as banh mi. The Saigon Special follows traditional lines, with cha lua and pate made in-house. Not so the Vegetarian, which layers roasted portobello mushroom with havarti, smoked gouda and basil peanut pesto.

Spread of the Sandwich That portobello sandwich might win the prize for least traditional banh mi — although there are an increasing number of contenders across the US. The founders of San Francisco’s Spice Kit cooked at Per Se, French Laundry and the Ritz Carlton Dining Room before opening their banh mi shop, where ingredients include heritage Korobuta pork and organic tofu: “We wanted to do something simple, so we retired our toques, put on some T-shirts and are whipping up Asian street food in a casual, relaxed way.”

At Orange County’s East Borough, you can get your banh mi filled with sustainably caught wild sardines in marinara sauce or creamy Swiss cheese — “pate upon request.” Across the country in Washington D.C., even the crusty bread has become optional: BONMi lets carb-conscious diners fill lettuce wraps with slow-cooked brisket or butternut squash marinated in coconut milk. And in a sign that the banh mi has become truly mainstream, non-Asian

1. Bunker 2. East Borough 3. Bon Me 4. Banh Mi Boys 5. Bon Me 6. Bon Me 7. Bon Me 8. Bon Me 9. Baoguette 10. Bon Me 11. Bon Me

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restaurants are serving up their own takes on the sandwich. Philadelphia gastropub Royal Tavern offers, in addition to burgers and fries, a grilled sweet potato banh mi with Bibb lettuce and jalapenos.

“I feel ambivalent about this trend,” says Stacy Nguyen, the Vietnamese-American food blogger who pens heoyeahyum. com. “It’s great that Vietnamese food is becoming more and more popular with non-Vietnamese, but this sometimes results in a loss of authenticity. The ingredients in traditional banh mi can be off-putting to some non-Vietnamese — the liver in the pate, the ‘mystery meat’ quality of the headcheese and cha — so these items get discarded in banh mi remakes. As a result, important Vietnamese tastes are lost in translation.”

Authentic?

David Chau, who runs Banh Mi Boys in Toronto with his two brothers, concedes that “some places are becoming extreme, with even more weird toppings.” But for him, making gourmet banh mi is a logical undertaking. His father owned a sandwich cart in Ho Chi Minh City; after the family moved to Canada in the 1980s, they opened Nguyen Huong Food Co., one of Toronto’s first banh mi shops. “We grew up working there,” Chau says. “By age nine, I was

stacking the sliced meats. By 12 I was cooking.”

When he saw banh mi mentioned on Food Network (“I’d never heard that word coming out of the TV before!”) he and his brothers decided Toronto was ready for a gourmet take on the sandwich. The first Banh Mi Boys opened in 2011. Buoyed by its success, the Chaus recently opened a second outpost. Their fillings aren’t what you’d encounter on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City: squid, Kalbi beef, duck confit. But the emphasis on freshness feels authentically Vietnamese.

“We bake our own bread, make all of our sauces, pickle all of our vegetables,” Chau explains. “All we need is the raw ingredients.”

To make the pulled pork banh mi, pork shoulder is rubbed with hoisin sauce and spices and smoked in the store for eight hours. Then it’s layered on fresh-baked bread and topped with pickled carrots and daikon, cilantro, cucumbers and Sriracha sauce, along with the same tangy mayonnaise that coats sandwiches at the family store in Chinatown. The result is a smoky take on Southern barbecue buoyed by crisp Asian flavours.

Not all banh mi chefs have direct ties to Vietnam. Fong and her husband, Patrick Lynch, are Boston natives (she is

Chinese-American). Two years ago, they pitched Bon Me as an entry to the Boston Food Truck Challenge — and won. The resulting food truck was so popular that the couple opened two others as well as a sitdown restaurant.

“Vietnamese sandwiches — the traditional ones — were popular in Chinatown when I was growing up,” the CIA-trained chef says. “When I moved to New York after college, I was craving those sandwiches.”

In New York City, where the banh mi trend has “exploded to a whole new level”, Fong drew inspiration for her own take on the sandwich. At Bon Me, fillings include vegan walnut pate and raw red onions (“Banh mi are all about balance. I felt like it needed that slight flair”). Customers who don’t want to plate their meat or tofu into a roll can use it to top brown rice or soba noodles. All the dishes benefit from a healthy dose of the house-made hot sauce — a fiery concoction of Sriracha, gochujang and cilantro.

Expats living in Vietnam might wonder why it’s the banh mi that has caught on in America, as opposed to, say, bun cha, or banh xeo. Perhaps this is because the concept of banh mi is both familiar and exotic.

“Everyone’s had ham sandwiches,” Chau says. “But you don’t see many Asian-style sandwiches out there.”

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T

he way we learn about things is often through their representation, and luckily for Vietnam there’s a lot of that to go around. In the museums and souvenir shops there are many ties to Vietnam’s history, natural resources and future shape — here we look into how they’re assimilated into the images we see every day, and the stories they keep telling us.

1) Ceramics The ancient civilisations of the Red River Valley, in the clay-rich north of Vietnam, learnt from China how to fire pottery. Khmer and Champa ceramics also influenced Vietnamese craftspeople. After the Chinese domination of Vietnam ended during the Ly and Tran dynasties, Vietnam began creating the most sophisticated ceramics in Southeast Asia. In the 14th century, Japanese tea masters treasured their Vietnamese imports.

European merchants traded vases from Bat Trang, a pottery village near Hanoi.

But history praises and then dismisses. By the early 20th century this was all forgotten and Vietnamese ceramics were written off as provincial. In 1997, when hundreds of thousands of Vietnamese ceramics dating back 500 years were found in a shipwreck off Hoi An, history paid attention again.

The find added to the world’s knowledge of ceramic art, showing distinctive patterns that combine dragons and flowers, a duo not seen in Chinese pieces.

And more recently, international art collections are buying some of the ceramic pieces created with tradition and wit by contemporary artist Bui Cong Khanh.

Ceramics are keeping the locals enthralled too, like that constructed on Truong Sa island. From 2012, Truong Sa boasts a national record: the largest ceramic mosaic, a giant Vietnamese flag. Designed by artist Nguyen Thu Thuy, the 310,000-piece mosaic weighs 3.5 tonnes. At 25 metres in length, it is so big it can be seen on satellite images.

2) Dong Ho Woodcuts Folk art has long been celebrated as a testament that the masses, not the ruling elite, are the makers of national culture.

Historian Tran Quoc Vuong claims that “all the characteristics and superiority of Vietnamese culture are crystalised in the culture of villages”. Clans around Dong

INSIDER

10 Things You Should Know about Vietnamese Art Cristina Nualart digs into Vietnam’s rich artistic traditions, and the ways they continue to evolve.

Photos by Alexandre Garel Ho in northern Vietnam made the village famous centuries ago for their woodcuts, handmade precursors to photocopies.

An artisan carves lines onto a flat block of wood, covers them with ink and prints onto paper. Rustic pictures of proverbs, ritual ceremonies or daily scenes are displayed on walls. Some images symbolise good fortune or guard the house, other prints allude to social injustice. Smaller, joss-paper pictures of houses or vehicles are burnt as offerings.

3) Indochina Fine Arts School Art, you might think, offers some solace when your country is experiencing a traumatic confrontation with an invading culture. In colonial times, artist To Ngoc Van — one of the ‘Four Masters’ of Vietnamese painting — wasn’t merely consoled by art. He saw art as an active instrument of change. Art, he felt, was a journey into new ways of understanding.

His colleague Nguyen Gia Tri, like many of the poets and writers in Vietnam of the 1930s, wanted to “wash the eyes of the public, to enable them to see in brighter, clearer, newer ways”. This art enabled new ideas to be integrated with the old ones, and to extract the best of both worlds.

The Indochina Fine Arts School, inaugurated in 1925, married French liberalism and Vietnamese traditionalism and gave birth to Vietnamese modern art.

The two French founders, Victor Tardieu and Joseph Inguimberty, strongly encouraged their art students to preserve their heritage by adapting local traditions. The original

school operated for only 20 years, but with irrevocable influence. For some time, this influence was a bone of contention, due to resentment towards the French occupation.

Now the institution — recently renamed the Vietnam Academy of Fine Arts — is accepted as the catalyst of the nation’s modern art, and the school’s graduates are highly revered artists who have helped put Vietnamese art on the international map.

4) Lacquer Laksa, a Sanskrit term meaning ‘100,000’, is where the word ‘lacquer’ derives from.

Gum lacquer is a sticky substance secreted by insects. Obviously you’d need 100,000 or more to get any useful quantity of the gum. But in Vietnam the lacquer is plantbased, secreted by one of several varieties of native trees, usually the cay son (wax tree).

The genuine product is a treacle-thick sap used to make wood waterproof. The urban myth is that the ubiquitous shiny vases and decorative paintings sold in every tourist shop across the country are ‘lacquer’. They are in fact made with polyurethane resin, a toxic chemical compound that should not be used to serve food in.

Since Asian prehistory, lacquer has been a resistant and decorative way to preserve wooden objects. Temples and palaces gleamed with the luster of lacquer, encrusted with mother of pearl or gold leaf patterns, captivating intrepid traders from the west.

In the 1600s, ‘Chinese varnish’ became so popular with European high society that a fake lacquer was invented in Italy.

Left page: A printing block used to make Dong Ho prints Right page: Top, a lacquer work by artist Huynh Van Thuan. Bottom, silk painting by artist Bui Tien Tuan

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Left hand page: Top, lacquer by artist U Van An. Bottom left, work by artist Huynh Phuong Dong. Bottom right, a resistance propaganda poster from the war era Right page: Work by artist Ta Ty on display in the HCMC Fine Arts Museum

While Japan and China argued over who developed the finest lacquerware, Vietnam turned lacquer into a fine art. After seeing the rich, glossy colours of the lacquered altar of the Temple of Literature, an art teacher at the Indochina Fine Arts School suggested to his students that they should try to paint with lacquer. They did. Traditional lacquerware technique met modern art, and history was made.

Less than a century later, Vietnamese art is more famous for its lacquer paintings than anything else, and Nguyen Gia Tri is its most respected lacquer painter.

5) Silk Painting The fragility of fine silk probably means that a considerable amount of silk paintings have been lost since the technique was adopted from China around the 3rd century.

Vietnamese silk painting had its heyday in the 1920s, when misty, soft images were created by Nguyen Phan Chanh (1892 to 1984) — ironically, because he was struggling at mastering oil paint. After he exhibited his lyrical silk art in Paris in 1931, his career took off and he became a sensation from Milan to Tokyo. As the master of Vietnamese silk painting, his success continues. Earlier this year one of his works fetched a record VND8.3 billion at a Hong Kong art auction.

The delicate art of silk painting is currently being reinvigorated by contemporary Vietnamese artists Le Hoang Bich Phuong and Bui Tien Tuan, among others.

Le Hoang Bich Phuong’s latest exhibition, Paeonia Dream, is being shown at Phuong My’s flagship store in Ho Chi Minh City (81 Le Thanh Ton, Q1) until Oct. 5

6) Soldier Artists In 1950 a new art school was set up in Viet Bac — the ‘Resistance Zone’ — to train artists who could produce

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easy-to-understand visual messages to unite the people into rising up against colonial rule. Artists were seen as the soldiers of the cultural battlefield. Some of them engaged in combat as well, recording the revolution’s progress from the frontlines.

The Viet Bac art school was spearheaded

by To Ngoc Van, an artist whose education at the Indochina Fine Arts School had made him see art as an instrument of change. He died before the 1954 victory at Dien Bien Phu. The ‘Resistance Class’ operated for five years, flourishing due to its isolation from the outside world and the fervour of its mission.

7) Propaganda Art National art workers were recruited in 1957 to make ‘real art’. Aimed at providing motivation, their propaganda posters were bright, original and direct. Images of brave, defiant and hard-working people were painted with tempera on paper, and sometimes copied by amateurs who disseminated them on walls and bridges countrywide. The ‘scientific, national and popular’ style that could ‘portray the truth’

was officially defined as Socialist Realism at its debut at the International Fine Arts Exhibition of 1958.

At present there are fewer than 10 fulltime propaganda artists left in Vietnam.

One still active is Luong Anh Dung, who says he loves the job he has been doing for 30 years, because it has the power to help people understand government policies.

In post-1985 Vietnam, his images show not only the soldiers and farmers that inspired previous generations; now we see computer programmers and office workers as symbols of development and economic growth.

But these digitally printed images, sadly, have lost the charm that made the original hand-painted propaganda posters into collectors’ items.

8) Abstract Art Vietnamese paintings of the 1930s frequently show 19th century European techniques. But flashes of Picasso’s influence made it into some works inclined towards new ways of expressing reality. Ta Ty (1922 to 2004) had been a revolutionary artist, but has become

“This is a common trend the world over — abstract art has been accused of wrongdoing by detractors who like to know what they are looking at” better known for experimenting with nonrepresentational art. By chance, he was able to see a French magazine with pictures of European avant-garde art. Curious, he tried it for himself.

In Hanoi, a 1951 solo exhibition of Ta Ty’s cubist paintings caused some controversy — many fiercely opposed the new painting styles. Despite the critique, Ta Ty kept investigating the potential of these ideas, and by the 1960s he was making abstract art.

Few other Vietnamese artists have become abstract painters, perhaps disappointed that abstract art was banned from national exhibitions until 1990. This is a common trend the world over — abstract art has been accused of wrongdoing by detractors who like to know what they are looking at.

Aside from the artist’s estate, some of the few remaining works by Ta Ty in Vietnam can be found at Tu Do Gallery (53 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, HCMC)

9) Dinh Q. Le “Culture is a basic need,” declares the cover of the Prince Claus Fund brochure. In 2010,

the Dutch foundation awarded a generous prize to artist Dinh Q. Le, for “exploring different constructions of reality, providing inspiration and practical opportunities for young artists and for advancing free thought and contemporary visual expression”. Le’s artworks have challenged dominant US perceptions of the American War, by showing the damage done to Vietnam.

As a child, this artist from Ha Tien learned from his aunt how to weave grass mats.

As a university student in the US, he used the same weaving technique with large photographs, some of which are part of the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. Le was the first Vietnamese artist to have a solo show in that seminal institution. He is also cofounder of the Vietnam Foundation for the Arts in the US, and San Art (3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh) in Ho Chi Minh City.

10) Art Residencies in Vietnam Artist-in-residence programmes are cultural exchange initiatives. A number of institutions all over the world fund

artist residencies, giving artists anything from a small room to large grants for art materials. They give creative practitioners the opportunities to work with other people, develop new art projects and share their ideas within a new community. Vietnamese artists have been invited over the years to work in other countries, from Japan to Germany, for a few weeks or months at a time.

But since May 2012, a residency programme has existed in Vietnam: San Art Laboratory in Ho Chi Minh City. Focusing on the talent in the home territories (as yet, the programme does not fund international artists), it provides studio space, a stipend and a whole lot of expert artistic support to young Vietnamese artists. Six artists from different parts of Vietnam have benefited so far, and two more are currently starting their residency. The public gets access to open studios, artist talks and exhibitions, and the artists get everything they need to concentrate on their art for some months.

But the big winner in all this? Art, which these residencies help to grow in vibrant and unexpected ways.

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FASHION

Pillars of Faith Ed Weinberg meets two women propping up Vietnam’s craft heritage by means of the collaborative social enterprise, Fashion4Freedom, and a very impressive shoe. Photos by Nick Ross

L

anVy Nguyen quit the corporate world in 2007. “My experience is in corporate finance,” she says, “business development, mergers and acquisitions. Very much the hardcore, finance type, neurotic-aggressive in New York kind of thing — in Hue.” That’s where she ended up after leaving the mean skyscrapers of New York City, and where the story starts. Six years later, LanVy’s social enterprise Fashion4Freedom is overseeing the production of one of the best crossovers of traditional craft and high fashion ever seen.

The Shoes They’re things of beauty, these. Worked leather mounted on cantilevered, six-inch back heels, overlooking inlaid wooden dragons. Built on the elaborately carved motifs of pagoda pillars, they represent Vietnam in a way few would think to do.

At first, the pillar carver himself never thought of it. “What started it,” Rachael Carson, of F4F’s business development end, says, “was a project we were working on that was giving equipment loans to small businesses. We were looking for businesses that needed equipment… but also who were able to repay it to the community.

“It’s a different model. You often hear microfinance people, they receive a loan, then they repay cash back to the bank. Our project was they receive a loan and pay

it back to the community. The idea was to promote philanthropy among small businesses. And that’s how we first met this carver.”

The carver, Tong, was one of the few who asked for less than he could have. “We were struck by him,” Rachael says. “He was very, very humble and very, very careful about what he was asking for. Some people were like, ‘What’s the max?’

“So that’s how we first met [him]. LanVy was collaborating with F4F as a business consultant. And we saw these giant wooden poles that held up pagodas, a giant, six-foot carved dragon, and LanVy was like — I remember you standing on it!”

LanVy laughs, and says, “They were carving it, and I said, ‘Wow, this thing is so strong and so cool.’”

“And she just stood on it,” Rachael says, “and she said, ‘What about a shoe?’”

The Problem with NGOs “One of the things I’ve found really lacking in the NGO side here,” says LanVy, “you get funding, especially from USAID, a lot of money, for vocational training. You don’t hear that any more, it’s no longer trendy. You hear ‘sustainability’, ‘women empowerment’.

“But back in the day,” she continues, “you used to hear ‘vocational training’. The problem with vocational training, especially in a lot of third-world countries, is usually

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LanVy laughs, and says, “They were carving it, and I said, ‘Wow, this thing is so strong and so cool.’” the NGO [facilitator] says, ‘Well I’m not great at vocational training, but I can hire someone. I have a master’s in public health’ — or whatever.”

It’s a process paved with good intentions, but it often leads to undesirable results. “The easiest thing to do is sewing,” LanVy says, “in a third-world country everybody should know how to sew. ‘I’m going to ask for 50 machines and find a seamstress.’ What do you think happens in that market?”

I guess: “It becomes a sweatshop?”

“Yes!” LanVy says. “Well kind of.

“The local seamstress in that rural area says, ‘Oh, they’re going to pay me in US dollars to teach all of these people. But I’m not going to teach them 100 percent of what I know, why would I do that? I don’t want to breed competition.’”

— “They become factory workers.”

“The NGO can say, ‘We’ve trained thousands, and they’ve gone out and gotten work.’ But if the work does not fit the living standard, what do you think eventually happens? And I kept seeing this.”

The Collaborative Aspect Fashion4Freedom saw the bind a long way off. No one’s doing it right — not the exploitative free market, not the organisations charged with fixing a bad system. And Vietnam’s 1,200 craft villages are suffering for it. “The whole thing is becoming a disappearing act,” says LanVy. Craftsmen have a choice — deal with the few buyers who’ve demonstrated an interest on the buyers’ own terms, or compromise their craft in a different way. “Capitalism

usually doesn’t accommodate the rural communities,” Rachael says.

What F4F has sought to do is negotiate the consumer market on behalf of these cut-off communities. “Whatever the talent is,” LanVy says, “we’ll speak to it. A lot of organisations say, ‘We’re going to teach a man how to fish.’ We see so many great fishermen… but they don’t have the rod, they don’t have the right equipment.

“You can assume that you know better and try to teach them,” she continues, “which I think is a tendency among international NGOs. But the reality is — ask them what they want, ask them what they need.”

But sometimes denying what they want works as well. The man who eventually became the leather worker on F4F’s shoes was denied an equipment loan by them, then went to a fortune teller. “He said, ‘Oh I met this group,’” LanVy recounts. “The fortune teller said, ‘There’s a woman who’s just as aggressive as you.’ And that’s why he agreed to do it… [The fortune teller said,] ‘I think it’s going to open up other things, I think it’s going to help you later on.’”

LanVy says, “He became the guy who really guided us through what we had to do to translate wood, from a person who has no idea how to manipulate wood, to create a shoe. So he ended up guiding our carver and our carpenter. And now they have a [new skill].”

“There’s multiple hands on each pair of shoes,” Rachael says. “We have the carpenter, and then we have the wood cobbler, then we have the leather cobbler.

And then we have a pair that uses lacquer, so a lacquer artist.” “[The shoes] are machine-pressed,” LanVy adds, “but they’re hand-done. So we had a bronze artist who created the mould. I mean, it really took multiple villages. But we wanted it to be something all of them could be really proud of.”

Fashion4Freedom is at saigonsocialite.com, or catch a glimpse of their shoes in real life at The House of Saigon, 16-18-20 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City. The shoes retail at VND9,550,000 a pair

The Process Our photographer went up to Hue to follow the process of making a pair of shoes.

First stop was the wood carver. With three separate people working on the heels alone, the carver's workshop quickly took the heel from a block of wood — the wood is sourced from Persian lilac trees — to the point of carving the dragons and shaping the heel.

The journey then took us to the cobbler's. The process here ran from cutting the leather — sourced from cattle farms in northern Vietnam — through to attaching the outsole to the shoe, making the inner sole, stitching together the leather and adding the lacing. The process involved five people, but because everything is handmade, there is no assembly line, no sweatshop and no ambience of mind-numbing work. This is craftsmanship, work that requires skill.

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HCMC Guide

BUSINESS 102 / EAT 109 / BARS 113 / CAFES 116 / ARTS 117 / LEISURE 118 / WELLNESS 122 / FASHION 125 / INTERIORS127 / ELECTRONICS 130 / GROCERIES 131 / GENERATION V 132 Photo by Kyle Phanroy

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Job Search 104 Business Buff 106 Food Promos 110 Body and Temple 120 Interiors 129 134 Student Eye September 2013 Word | 85

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Many Faces

Masked Man Holed up in his small Go Vap abode is Chu Bay — one of a dying breed. Sculpting hat boi masks is not just his passion but his destiny, as Derek Milroy observes.

Photos and translation by Francis Xavier

C

hu Bay has a dream. He is living in his home province of Ninh Binh, regularly taking his family to see hat boi (also known as hat tuong) — a traditional opera being performed by travelling troupes and in local theatres. This is his utopia.

It may never happen, but as long as he has something to aim for, it keeps him focused. He works night and day creating traditional masks in the hat boi fold to make enough money to allow himself a shot at retirement and to get out of dodge — dodge being Ho Chi Minh City.

Bay, 49, in true artist style sports facial hair and an unkempt appearance, with grey, dirty hands from the production process.

He is a working man. He has been in the city for half his life, and when probed about the possibility of trying an alternative profession, he sniffs. He tried it once at a statue factory, but quickly found it wasn’t for him.

He could quit the masks for a more profitable job, but he’s stubborn and can’t stop. It’s not just hat boi masks he creates, but also the iconic, fictional characters of Egypt and Native America, as well as Chinese historical figures.

“I have been creating the hat boi masks for so long that I have a bond with them until my time is up or my hands don’t work anymore,” he says. “I save money so that every year I can take my family back home to Ninh Binh for a visit. That is my motivation to make and sell as many masks as possible. If I don’t make enough the family can’t go.”

An Angel in a Scary Mask At first glimpse the masks can be scary to some people, but hung on a wall at home they purportedly bring good fortune and keep the demons at bay.

Bay became hooked as a child, often sneaking into hat boi shows unnoticed just to see the painted masks. His admiration helped mask his fears. He later studied the art from local artisans. As he moulds and paints his love for his hometown in his makeshift studio, he is always drawn back to his childhood. He makes his masks with rock powder, which he puts into the mould and then rubs with sandpaper to make them smoother. Then he paints.

Selling roughly 100 a month, he considers himself a poor artist. He knows he’ll never be rich, but is happy with his destiny. In the past the masks were painted on paper, but they didn’t last. After trying a traditional mould product, he switched to his own special ingredients which include a plastic product to make the masks more durable.

Ever the salesman Bay asks me if I can take some masks back to Scotland and introduce his art to a new market. He is no stranger to international trade and occasionally ships off products to Japan or the US. He even sold thousands of his small masks to a German company a few years ago.

He is a familiar figure about town and his favourite spots are on Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Dien Bien Phu and Truong Dinh. He admits sales are down in the rainy season, so if you spot him and like the products at hand, cough up the cash and make his Ninh Binh dream come at least partly true.

The Birth of an Art Form It is believed that hat boi was imported from China around 1285, when Vietnam was warring against the Mongol Yuan Dynasty. A famous actor named Ly Nguyen Cat was imprisoned by the Vietnamese, and the Dai Viet imperial court at Thang Long (now Hanoi) asked him to spread his knowledge of Chinese theatre to the children of the elite at the royal court.

He taught the court performers the

techniques of Chinese zaju opera, creating what is now hat tuong or hat boi.

Over the next century the art form welcomed the introduction of southern songs. The theatre was later adapted to travelling troupes who entertained the common people of Vietnam. The National Tuong Theatre was set up in Hanoi after the end of French rule.

My Lucky Mask My brother brought me a devilish mask back from Japan and explained to me that it brought good luck and helped ward off evil spirits, or so it said on the tin.

I suppose if you believe you are lucky you become so. It was a bit ghoulish with its horns and wicked smile — and quite fragile, as it smashed quite easily.

I was hoping it would still have its powers, but no amount of glue could put it together again. Post-accident, I kept it in a little green bag. My mother was visiting my flat and after tidying up put the bag in my drawer. I awoke that night sensing something trying to force its way out the drawer. I opened it slowly and carefully. The bloody mask. It was never put in a drawer again. Then one day it disappeared, never to be seen again.

After our interview, I bought a new mask from Bay. Fingers crossed it doesn’t break and brings me my billion.

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Business

Unlocking Our Potential Ed Weinberg sits in on some leadership training courses at ERC Institute with Vietnam’s best and brightest, eager to unleash some hidden greatness.

Photos courtesy ERC International

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J

anette Marsh, former country manager for an unnamed cosmetics multinational, is asking us why we’re there, sitting in a third-floor auditorium at ERC Institute Vietnam at 8.30am on a workday.

“I want to be better!” an enthusiastic sales manager for Blue Cross Vietnam, Dinh Ngoc Cam Tu, yells out, church tent revival-style.

“Because of you!” another says. Janette blows some kisses in her direction.

And Lucky, a travel agent with the novel idea of paying for tours on an installment plan, says, “For a better life.”

Janette doesn’t know how to respond to this. She puts away her snappy-comeback motivational speaker panache, and simply smiles, accepting. “Okay,” she says.

The 50 of us have signed up for this soft-skills course at the business school, one of the series 6 Keys to Unlock your Potential called Getting the Best from the Best, ostensibly to learn how to lead more effectively. But, looking around the room at my fellow business leaders, dressed in workday business casual and scribbling madly in ERCbranded folders, we look like we’re also ready to follow a good leader.

Key 4: How to Dress Well My colleague Mads attends this session, and tells me the class was dressed in pretty much the same fashion as in the last session — why improve on perfection?

The speaker this time speaks Vietnamese.

Mads is fairly confident his decent language skills will get him through, especially when he sees the speaker, Raymundo Jeziel, an ERC associate trainer and fellow foreigner.

However, when Raymundo starts to speak, Mads quickly falls behind.

One joke sticks with Mads. “Basically,” he explains, “if you dress too sexy at the workplace, you will get a lot of dirty looks. But, if you don't get them, you have a problem.”

Key 6: How to Become an Effective Negotiator Sitting in our seats first thing on a Thursday morning, we’re ordered by ERC’s general manager and session leader Warren Eng to stand up. We do it slowly, begrudgingly, standing in the leg space between our chairs and the next row.

“Before you move anyone, you have to move yourself,” Warren says. “You need a gesture that generates power. Mine goes like

“I ask the Blue Cross sales manager what she’s learned, how she hopes to use her newfound skills in the future. She says, maybe she’ll ask her boss for ‘double salary, or I will move’. Her friend says, ‘Maybe with her boyfriend!’”

say, lowballing him. “But you know you’ll be dealing with international clients. We’ll include English training with your salary.”

That Elusive Potential The day takes us through some more activities, points illustrated with jaunty anecdotes.

We do better and worse than we’d like, and smile either way. The uncontrollable factors that usually circle our heads are nowhere to be found. We’re playing games with a finite objective, clear winners and losers.

Later I ask the Blue Cross sales manager who’s again in attendance what she’s learned, how she hopes to use her newfound skills in the future. She says, maybe she’ll ask her boss for “double salary, or I will move”. Her friend says, “Maybe with her boyfriend!”

We have a laugh as everyone leaves the room, hurrying to get in a quick lunch before heading into the office.

ERC International is at 88 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan, Ho Chi Minh City, or online at erci.edu.vn

Other Training Providers There are a number of other providers of teambuilding and soft business skills training in Ho Chi Minh City. These include:

E mbers A sia

embers-asia.com

G&H

ghmsglobal.com

KTDC G roup

ktdcgroup.com

X age C onsultancy Janette seems a good choice. In 34 years working in the South African beauty industry for a variety of employers, in charge of a variety of employees, she’s had experience all along the chain. In 34 years, she had two bosses she liked, one of which — when she asked for time off and tried to give him a reason — told her, “Janette, you don’t need to give me a reason. Even if it’s just to get your hair cut, it’s fine. Why not get your hair cut on company time — it grew on company time.”

She tried very hard to be like that boss — result-oriented and compassionate. But all around her people pressed their own agendas, looked out for their own interests and egos. Janette recounts these experiences with lots of head cocks, hands on hips and the occasional puckering of lips and emphasising of breasts. She stages an offBroadway play of backbiting, treachery and “that’s not my job”.

We try very hard to empathise with her, but secretly we're checking on ourselves, making sure we’re not the problems. And it hits me — we’ve come to this class not to learn how to lead others better, but how to lead ourselves through the unpredictability of working with them.

this” — he lets out a booming roar that echoes through the room as he karate chops the air in front of his black suit jacket.

“Now you try,” Warren says. At the count of three, a strangled erggg comes out of our 60 mouths. Warren teases us with an “Eeeee!” waving his hands in front of his chest like a toddler. “I actually saw one guy do this.”

We all laugh at our lack of confidence. He’s won this one.

He takes us through some theory, but pretty soon we’re on our feet again, being paired up for a round of fake negotiations. I’m handed a pink sheet: “You are the CEO of P&C Company. You need to recruit a new Business Development Manager to head a new business department. Because of its scale and importance, you have decided to undertake the recruitment process yourself…

“As an employer, you would also like to test the lowest agreeable salary you can offer to sign up this second candidate. It is your intention to make an offer now.”

The parameters of this Stanford Prison Experiment are: budget of US$6,000 per month, other option at US$3,500 a month, no salary floor. Right away, my future employee apologises for his English. “It’s alright,” I later

xageconsulting.com Alternatively, go to citynetevents.com/ saigon/courses to see what courses are available around town.

Negotiation Skill #15: Learning Empathy Winston Churchill once saw a guest at a royal function walk out with a silver teapot under his suit jacket. This was a complicated situation — he didn’t want to just let this crime pass, but he also didn’t want to create a scene at the palace.

Warren Eng puts this dilemna to us in his negotiation class, and asks us what we’d do in this case.

One woman suggests, “I’d go up and ask for a cup of tea.” Another says, “I’d say if he likes it, we can order him a new one.”

“Very good,” Warren says, “but what Churchill did was even better. He put a teacup in his jacket, walked over to the guy and put it on a table in front of them.

Then he said to the guy in kind of a whisper, ‘I think they saw us.’”

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CHARITY

Volunteer Stop-portunities Margaret Smith feels the urge to help, but where? Photos by Kyle Phanroy

V

olunteer work is something many of us consider at some point in our lives. When you’re younger, it is something you do through a religious organisation, school or some sort of extracurricular organisation.

It’s a resume builder, boosting college applications and setting the stage for one to become a more well-rounded human being.

Flash forward a few years, though, and suddenly you’re living in Southeast Asia.

You’re making a pretty comfortable living, you’re going out for semi-fancy lunches and drinking beers after work.

Hey, wait a minute… that sounds like me.

Which is why after about eight months of

living this tawdry lifestyle, I decided it was time for a change. No more lunches every day with the gang, and no more waking up late. I wanted to volunteer, and spend my free time giving back to this country that has already given so much to me.

But here’s the problem: volunteering is much more difficult than you think. If you’re not with an already-established volunteer group and you’re not trying to pay money for one of those volunteer holidays, finding somewhere to work can require lots of time, research and awkward housecalls. Why is trying to do something so good seemingly so difficult?

That’s the question I had in mind when I

pitched the idea to my editors at the Word.

A lot of people out there want to volunteer, but they either don’t know how or are too lazy to figure it out. Is it really that hard?

And so, the experiment: find three organisations, go through the interview process, and volunteer at each for the next two months. These should be three different kinds of charities, including an orphanage, a hospital and maybeee some sort of NGO. Now all I had to do was find them.

The Research Sitting at home in front of the computer a few days later, I typed into Google the first thing that came to mind: “volunteer in Ho

“I had taken the necessary steps to prove my commitment to volunteering, sending out emails and CVs detailing my qualifications. But, when the listed phone number isn’t working and there’s no email address to contact, well, sometimes you have to just put yourself out there” 90 | Word September 2013

Chi Minh City”. About 856,000 results came up. Whoops.

I went for it anyway, and clicked the first few links that looked interesting. They were all volunteer holidays, where you pay an organisation a relatively large sum of money to set you up with a volunteer experience abroad.

Uh, no thanks.

So I narrowed down my search a bit.

I searched “orphanages in Ho Chi Minh City” and “orphanages in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam”. I searched “hospitals in Ho Chi Minh City”, “volunteer in hospital in Ho Chi Minh City” and “NGOs in Ho Chi Minh City”. I patrolled job websites, looking for the names of nonprofits that were hiring and searched them in Google.

I scrolled through lists of NGOs, and individually searched those that I thought were the most interesting.

Within hours I had sent emails to four different organisations I thought looked the most promising (one a full application that took me almost an hour to complete). I also sent out Facebook messages to two friends I knew had volunteered in the past.

The Orphanage In last month’s issue of Word, Dana McNairn from KOTO gave some advice to those looking to volunteer (page 178, August 2013). “No one would dream of rocking up to a bank, marching in and announcing they were there to help,” she wrote. “Yet you’d be surprised how often this happens at nonprofits.”

I had taken the necessary steps to prove my commitment to volunteering, sending out emails and CVs detailing my qualifications. But, when the listed phone number isn’t working and there’s no email address to contact, well, sometimes you have to just put yourself out there.

Which is how my roommate Katherine and I found ourselves awkwardly standing in the courtyard of a District 2 orphanage at 10.30am on a sunny Wednesday morning.

The orphanage is set back from the street, behind what looks like an underconstruction temple. The kids had just finished eating. Trays were still on the long wooden tables in the lunchroom to the left of us, where some of the older kids were still hanging out. The younger ones were running around in the dirt, squealing gleefully and trying to play soccer. They barely noticed us.

In front of us there was a room that looked like a front office. Katherine pushed me a little bit, and I crept inside. Sitting at a desk was a bald young woman dressed in monastery robes.

“Hi!” I started with a big smile on my face. “My name’s Margaret and this is my friend Katherine. We’re English teachers here, and we want to volunteer…”

The woman smiled shyly and shook her hand. “No, no, no English…”

She motioned for us to wait a moment.

A few minutes later I saw her pushing a different young woman towards us. Finally, our new handler walked over. She spoke enough English to understand the word ‘volunteer’ and give us the number for a nun named Hien, and told us to come back the next day at 8am. I texted Hien when I got home to confirm. She sent me two text messages back.

Text message #1: Yes. Text message #2: Yes ok.

Since then Katherine and I have gone back every Thursday morning. Usually we help out in the kitchen, picking vegetables, frying tofu, sweeping the floor and setting up trays for lunch. In our downtime we play with the kids, run around in the courtyard with them and play games.

Are we teaching English? No. Are we providing services that they couldn’t do on their own? Not really. But we’re helping them where they need it, and I guess that’s all that matters.

Next up: The girls try to get started in a hospital

“I typed into Google the first thing that came to mind: ‘volunteer in Ho Chi Minh City’. About 856,000 results came up. Whoops”

Orphanages We tracked down some of the more accessible orphanages in the city — now you have no excuse not to indulge your helpful instincts.

A llambie O rphanage V ietnam allambie.co.uk

D ieu G iac O rphanage 117 Tran Nao, Q2 orphaned.org

G o V ap O rphanage

45 Nguyen Van Bao, Go Vap kidswithnoborders.org

M aison C hance

19A Duong So 1, Binh Tan maison-chance.org

T hien P huoc

156 An Phu Dong 11, Q12 thienphuoccharity.com

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Theatre

The Show Must Go On It’s less than two months until opening night, and Jaime Zuniga and Aaron Toronto — the directors of Dragonfly Theatre Company’s next production Dangerous Liaisons — are finally beginning to put their vision to the test.

Words by Karen Hewell. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

W

e’re in Q4, a massive warehouse-cum-event space that will be the eventual setting of the production’s opening night. Right now, though, it is littered with stools, plush armchairs and wobbly sofas that Aaron is shoving across the uneven asphalt floor to create a makeshift stage. He takes a few steps back to survey his work, pausing to contemplate, and then begins approximating the stage dimensions by striding around the room in long, even steps, counting as he goes. A few meters away, Jaime is in full dramatic frenzy, speaking lowly to Belinda — Dragonfly’s leading lady and co-founding member — while squinting at his script and jotting notes frantically before the first actor arrives.

It’s Sunday, but the weekend is a blur for

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all three, who have been blocking for the past 48 hours, a process where actors learn the precise movements and positions that will bring their characters to life on stage. It requires actors to run through scenes dozens of times while Jaime circles around them, stopping them mid-line to adjust a hand here, a foot there. It’s an exhausting ordeal, since blocking a single scene can take hours, if not days, but it seems to have had an opposite effect on Jaime, Aaron and Belinda, who are bursting with more passion now than ever.

“It’s still very early in the process since we’ve just started to block,” says Aaron.

“It’s the first interaction that the actors have had with [mine and Jaime’s] vision, but that first step was very successful. We’ve already started working on the characters [in script readings], so when [the actors] come to the blocking session, they already have ideas

and instincts.”

While only a month ago both Aaron and Jaime were still deliberating about colour and costume designs, now the actors scribble notes on their scripts — instructions for a glance to linger before a line, or to touch a shoulder during another — and before their eyes, the world of Dangerous Liaisons is taking shape, scene by scene.

“The actors’ ideas add a lot of value to [the creative process]. [They] expand your vision, but they don’t necessarily change it,” says Jaime, relating how the characters, and his vision for the production, are beginning to come to life. “It’s like a small universe that’s expanding. In essence, it’s the directors’ vision, and the work of the actors is contributing to that expansion. You have to make sure that expansion happens and is faithful to the core of the vision, though. It’s like… the big bang.”

An Uphill Battle While the actors scribble new notes on their well-worn scripts while running through scenes countless times, the world of Dangerous Liaisons continues to unfold.

The production is coming to life with each passing rehearsal. It’s something that the Dragonfly veterans have come to expect.

“The artistic side of [a production] is always as gratifying as we want it to be, which is often the thing that keeps me going,” says Aaron. “It [holds] up its side of the bargain, always.”

To keep going, it turns out, is the consistent battle for the three, who describe the production processes less sunny outcomes as ‘deja-vu’.

“We always think that the next production will be easier, because we have so much experience,” says Aaron. “Every time, though, we face the same [obstacles].”

Dangerous Liaisons is no different. This production was set to be the company’s most ambitious — an extravaganza that would rely on partnerships with major businesses and corporate sponsorship to transform it into an event that rivaled the Broadway productions that were touring the world. The plan was to attract sponsorship through the promise of brand awareness for businesses, specifically towards high-end retail that would match the opulent and ostentatious imagery that Dangerous Liaisons encapsulates in its French turn-of-thecentury setting. “[With this approach], we thought ‘we’ll get businesses to sponsor us, and it’ll be a great business model,” Aaron laments. “But

it just doesn’t work that way.”

The three came to the conclusion after Belinda — who plays a leading role in Dangerous Liaisons and counts Dragonfly as her ‘third child’ — spent months contacting businesses in vain, which routinely responded to the prospect of sponsorship with a dismissing slam of the door.

“A lot of the companies here don’t understand what theatre is. They don’t understand just what they can get out of [sponsoring] something like [a theatrical production],” she says. “We know how good our product is, and we know how many people will come, and who will see the advertising,” she continues. “The thing is, the businesses don’t.”

The Ferocious Beast Although exasperated, they show no signs of giving up. Putting corporate funding on the backburner, they have decided to turn instead to the very people who have made Dragonfly Theater Company the premiere English-language troupe in Ho Chi Minh City — the fans themselves. “[I meet] people who are desperate for this kind of culture. That’s been the most inspirational thing that I’ve experienced since [I started with Dragonfly],” says Belinda. “Meeting these people and connecting with them… they’re so passionate about what we’re doing.”

With the launch of a brand new IndieGoGo crowdfunding effort, the troupe hope to cover the expenses of the production, including the costumes and set design, all adding up to a hefty VND60

million. The online tool — which allows dedicated fans and strangers alike to donate towards Dragonfly with the click of a button — is one of the company’s few remaining options to keep from going into the red.

Hopefully, the contributors will be rewarded three-fold, with one of the best and most spectacular theatrical experiences that Saigon has ever seen.

With all of the mounting pressure, the dwindling capital, and the exhausting parade of unwilling corporate sponsors, the Dragonfly veterans are still sure of one thing — the show will go on.

“It’s the ferocious beast within,” says Aaron of the unrelenting passion and drive to continue forward. “I wish I could satiate the beast, but it refuses to be satiated. I wish I could tell it to shut up, so I could live a normal life, but I just can’t do that.”

So, is there anything that will truly keep the show from ever seeing the stage?

Jaime’s own wife asked the same question, reminding him of their non-existent sponsorship, mounting production costs and unrelenting obstacles. The answer, to him, was obvious, as he responded emphatically, “I’m the captain of the Titanic. I’m sinking with this ship. I’ll be here until the very last day, no matter what.”

Dragonfly Theatre Company’s IndieGoGo campaign can be viewed by visiting indiegogo. com/projects/dangerous-liaisons. Contributors can support Dragonfly’s next production with donations of as little as US$25 and up to US$3,000. With just over 30 days left in the campaign, every dollar counts toward making Dangerous Liaisons a spectacular reality

September 2013 Word | 93

Entertainment

Dai Nam-ite! D Seamus Butler sidesteps 18,000-square-metre replicas of Halong Bay, slow-motion rollercoasters and multiple haunted houses on a solo quest for enlightenment in the unlikeliest of places.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy 94 | Word September 2013

ai Nam Wonderland is located just a short distance northwest of Ho Chi Minh City, just past the small town of Thu Dau Mot in Binh Duong Province, but it’s a whole world away. And a weird, under-repair world of its own.

Opened in September 2008, the grounds are extensive, covering over 4.5sqkm. The entire complex (officially called Lac Canh Dai Nam Van Hien) includes hotels, restaurants, shopping areas, camping sites, temples, the aforementioned amusement park and — oh, yes — a zoo. If all this humdrum information doesn’t make you want to instantly seek out

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this Shangri-La of fun and games, read on — I’m sure my personal experience will influence your opinion one way or another.

Entering through the fort-looking façade you will be confronted with a distant vision of Halong Bay’s karst cliffs. Don’t let your eyes deceive you — these are only replicas. Save that digital space on your memory card for the many more interesting attractions that await you. If you become disoriented by the ruse and are bewildered as where to obtain a ticket, just get on the train/tractor in front of you, its carts half-full of smiling people.

Finding Neverland A short, bumpy ride will whisk you into the major attractions area. Entrance is a competitive VND100,000. Dai Nam chooses to forgo the mandatory pay-upfront tactic, and allows you to pick your pleasure and pay for your rides and attractions as you perch, or descend, upon them.

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As I moved through the turnstyle with sweaty palms, wringing my hands at the thought of a double-barrel rollercoaster, I looked to my left and right and wondered where all the thrill seekers were. Moving towards a crossroad, it was hard to tell if anyone — other than ice-cold kem vendors and children’s toy sellers — was having fun this Sunday. This was to be how the day would proceed.

I strolled along the covered promenade, glancing at the vendors, and wondered if it was an appropriate time to suck down a soda. Just then I saw one of the main reasons I came to Dai Nam: the aptly titled Roller Coaster, a double corkscrew sit-down steel coaster — just good, simple fun.

Peeking from behind large drooping trees, the steel-blue frame curved oddly to the sky before sweeping gently back towards the ground. I braced myself as I walked towards what I assumed would be a long line. But no one broke my stride.

Ascending the steel steps, I was greeted by two young Vietnamese guys — not another person around. I’d hit jackpot, or so I thought.

Typically in this type of situation, I’d disembark, hop the dividing chains and give it another go. But the 45-second ride was a flash in the pan; my endorphins quickly subsided, and as I walked off I told myself there must be greater fun to be had elsewhere in the park.

Scare Tactics Fortunately, Dai Nam has quite the amount of haunted house type attractions. Most notably, The Secret of the Pyramid — which is extra frightening when it is completely empty and camera sensors don’t trip.

I consider myself to be a brave amusement park goer. Yet, standing in pitch black with recorded screams and wails in a deserted haunted house, staring at the red LED lights of the camera trips,

it felt more like a scene from Saw and less like a jumpy walk through a mediocre horror house. My bravery returned about halfway through, and I was able to enjoy my solo journey through the mummythemed halls — not entirely understanding what the horror scenes were showing, except that stuff jumped out and it was very jarring.

The other solid offering is Hell Floor 18, with 18 floors of Chinese Buddhist Hell well represented. Before entering the Hell Floor 18 attraction, you should note Ox-Head and Horse-Face guarding the entrance. While inside, observe various gruesome, yet head-scratchingly confusing representations of each hellish punishment. Stone bludgeoned, tree-ofknives climbing, sawed-in-half sinners are all portrayed in average-to-low detail, while a soundtrack of screaming, screeching and sobbing lulls you into a false sense of confidence that these floors

are for karma-heavy Buddhists and not balanced ones like yourself.

Lions and Bears and… Hat-eating Giraffes?

If you’re like me, Dai Nam’s zoo is the one place you’ll be pleasantly surprised rather than continually confused. Containing 76 species of rare and exotic animals, the zoo is much more impressive than you would expect — or than the city version would lead you to believe.

The real draw is the close-up factor of the animals. The white rhinos are close enough to eyeball you, and the giraffes are cut down to size with a clever viewing platform that allows feeding and petting. It may actually be a little too close, as one little girl in my group found. Distracted within neck’slength of an unscrupulous giraffe, she had her hat picked clean off her head. She cried, her mother laughed.

After being fully exhausted by my

sojourn, I decided to finish at the 5,000sqm Dai Nam temple. I put a pair of black socks over my shoes and proceeded to shuffle along the red-woven carpet towards Buddha, Ho Chi Minh and Hai Ba Trung. I looked upwards at these historical figures and all of a sudden, understanding of why I came to Dai Nam dawned on me. I lit some incense, took a deep breath and shuffled away towards the entrance of the temple and the end of my journey.

Going to Dai Nam alone, and doing some of the attractions alone, made me realise that you find amusement from others having fun, which makes you have fun. Otherwise, places like amusement parks, circuses or movie houses seem spooky, isolated, lost in time.

Whether it’s your best friend, a five-hour friend or just the person you happen to be sitting next to on the ride — a laugh, a yell or an unexpected moment can make the difference between a day at the rides and a day you’re sure to remember.

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A newly opened eatery close to Ben Thanh Market is placing grilled street cuisine in a modern, aircon atmosphere.

But does it work? Our undercover reporter finds out. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

V

ietnam is synonymous with street food. It’s been obsessed over, embellished upon, exported to the realms of global cuisine and become the fodder of that internet-era, stomachtormented wave of food bloggers who know everything yet nothing about which they write.

Yet take it off the sidewalks and alleyways from whence it was conceived, remove the wooden poles and baskets from whence it was carried, add in that all important yet taste-impeding hygiene, remove those globules of MSG and, say many, Vietnam’s best known export loses its sheen. Can a New York industrial chic exposed-brick street kitchen in a 1960s Saigon frame with floor tiles to match truly recreate the taste of the street?

In my opinion, yes. Not that my opinion has all that weight — what right do I have to place my judgements above that of the copious wordage on all those blogs out there?

But I’ve visited Grillbar three times now and have left every time with

98 | Word September 2013

Grillbar that stomach-satisfying belch, and with my tastebuds amply catered for.

Despite the modern surroundings, that journey from street to aircongrilled showcase has been made with aplomb.

The main reason is an undervalued concept — simplicity. There are no out of place bells or deafening whistles, no excesses that don’t fit the environment or the decor. This is humble, grilled, off-the-street fare served up on white ceramic plates, with unbent metal forks and spoons, quality wooden chopsticks on the side and plastic chair seating made to carry the weight of a western-sized rear end and ample-sized belly. If there is a bell out there, then it’s in the form of the bamboo straw used for the teas and sugarcane juice. Cut a hole in it and you can fashion it into a whistle. Cut a few holes and you have a flute.

The Nuts ‘n Bolts On my three visits every grill dish has gotten the salivary juices screaming out for another offering. Without exception. From the curry-flavoured chicken drumsticks (VND85,000) to the pork ribs grilled with fermented bean curd (VND89,000) and the beef skewers with coriander (VND89,000), served up with a choice of coconut rice, white rice or bitty rice (com tam) and a simple salad on the side, eating here has been a palate-happy, belly-warming pleasure. It’s not that delicately balanced, six-flavourson-a-plate cuisine — which is great in the right setting and appropriate

circumstance. No, this is humble Vietnamese street fare in a modernday atmosphere.

But special mention here is reserved for two particular dishes.

First, the Vietnamese pork belly (or bacon) barbecued with lemongrass and chillies (VND79,000). The charcoal-grilled crust on the outside combined with the chewy yet wholesome flavour of the meat just cries out Saigonese cuisine. Pork belly is big in this town, and here thanks to the charcoal grill sensation, it’s given a different, welcome dimension.

But top of the roost is the grilled fish cake (VND79,000). Served up with a kumquat, salt and pepper dip, the sweet yet savoury spice of the fish cakes is reminiscent of New York-style gefilte fish, while the dip adds a citrusy yet salty element to proceedings, altering the taste of the fish at every bite.

For lovers of the non-grill as much as the grill, there’s more here to tantalise. Breakfast and lunch specials, filled banh mi, desserts, organic teas, coffees and pepper, even some spicy, succulently crunchy papaya-based salads. Doubling up as a coffee lounge — yes, there are a few sofas and coffee tables here to compete with the thick, bare-wooden table tops — Grillbar is a day-long entity that also does a trade at dinner.

And close to Ben Thanh Market, you’ll have the fellow diners that complete the street experience too.

Grillbar is at 122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City and at grillbar.com. vn

THE VERDICT

13 Food

12

Service

13 Décor

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

Street Snacker

In Search of Bun Cha

Can Hanoi’s favourite street food dish be replicated in Saigon? Words by Nick Ross. Photos by Kyle Phanroy

T

he charcoal-grilled aroma of bun cha wafting into the street; the seamless mix of carbs (the bun noodles), meat (the pork patty and the bacon) and roughage (the salad and fresh herbs); the warm fish sauce broth spiced to taste; the thin slices of pickled papaya and carrot; the tiny stools, wooden chopsticks and plastic tables. Don’t be misled by the worldwide obsession for pho. The one dish that screams Hanoi, and the street food culture so heavily embraced by the capital, is bun cha. Yet with different readily available ingredients in the south, together with a palate partial to sugar, Saigon’s version of this ever-present Hanoi staple has never quite hit the mark. Until now.

Thanks to the Hanoi brain drain — growing amounts of Hanoians young and old are seeking their fortune in Saigon — the number of restaurants serving northern fare in this city is on the rise. Meaning that nearly authentic bun cha is now readily available in the south. On a mission to savour the best of what Saigon has to offer, I went on a self-curated, self-researched bun cha tour of Vietnam’s largest city.

The Chains My first stop was at Bun Cha Ho Guom.

Now with five well-located eateries spread

around the city, this joint’s epithet is a misnomer. Ho Guom is the colloquial name for Hoan Kiem Lake, the body of water standing at the centre of the capital. Yet not one bun cha joint circumnavigates this landmark. So is the name merely a marketing ploy?

Where Bun Cha Ho Guom succeeds is in the replication of the flavour and the spices — you wouldn’t know you were in Saigon.

The fish sauce broth has a balanced mix of garlic, chilli and pepper and spice, while the pork patty and the Vietnamese bacon have that charcoal-grilled edge you would expect of the original. But beyond this, their rendition is a whole-hearted average.

There were inevitable differences in the accoutrements — the crushed wet chilli and addition of grated morning glory to the salad basket don’t make the cut up north.

Every joint I would visit on this bun cha crawl had their own creative adjustments.

But there was nothing at Ho Guom to leave you salivating for more.

Which is an accusation you can’t make of my second stop, Anh Hong. A southern branch of the over-popularised Bun Cha Hang Manh in Hanoi, here the standout was the meat. The patties were cooked to order, and were so well-spiced and wholesome that they eclipsed the counterparts raved over by guidebooks at

their sister restaurant in the capital.

Located down a small drive-in alley, Anh Hong got other things right, too. The fish sauce broth was served warm and slightly sweet — unlike at my first stop — and there was a greater variety on the fresh herbs. The addition of pickled chillies and garlic on the side, added a spicy, vinegary kick.

Authentic After two failed attempts — Song Nam on Dinh Tien Hoang had closed down while the eatery at 217 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 had that dirty street-side look that had my stomach crying out a definitive ‘no’ — I decided to forgo driving out to the eateries in Tan Binh in favour of the long-running Bun Cha Ha Noi in town.

One of the city’s prominent bun cha joints, the typical ramshackle, street food eatery interior belied the product. For an all-round contender, this stood head and barbecued meat shoulders above the competition. The salad basket was huge, the portion of bun larger than elsewhere, the pickles, the fish sauce broth and even the meat — done not to perfection, but close.

While I enjoyed aspects of Anh Hong more, this eatery — which hewed closer to its northern cousin than the others — took home top noodle.

Information B un C ha H a N oi

26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 VND32,000 a portion

B un C ha H o G uom

107 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1; 47 Truong Dinh, Q3; 8B Tran Phu, Q5 VND35,000 a portion

B un C ha A nh H ong

140B Ly Chinh Thang, Q3 VND36,000 a portion

September 2013 Word | 99

overscene

FHM meets sgn

Photos by Alexandre Garel Men’s magazine cover girl DJ Miki Taka brought her sexy version of spin and mix to Chill Skybar for a night of sensual grooving, 26 floors above the sleeping city.

100 | Word September 2013

leaky skull tavern hard opening

Photos by Francis Xavier The ‘Pirate Bar’ held its Hard Opening to the sounds of DJ Joey T, and the first show by former Joy Oi! members turned pirates Death Bed Booty Call

Manga Fes

Photos by Francis Xavier The Youth Culture House played home to hundreds of adolescent teens acting out their video game fantasies, and at least one virtual diva

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhcmc.com and we'll take a look.

japandroids

Photos by Francis Xavier Spin Magazine’s 2012 band of the year sent 400 jittery indie rock enthusiasts home sweaty from Q4

POW!

Photos by Kyle Phanroy Saigon’s graffiti kids got a healthy outlet for their aggression at Saigon Outcast’s wild style royal rumble.

HCMC

BUSINESS From accounting to advertising to serviced apartments, our selection of some of the city's top businesses

Accounting & Audit GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0220 globaleye.com An invaluable resource for expats, Globaleye provides consultation on investments, offshore banking, education planning, life protection, wills, pensions and more.

PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS

Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0796 pwc.com With more than ten years of experience in Vietnam in all major industry sectors, PwC provides auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting.

SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES 6th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1

Tel: 0938 220 255 vivianwcooper@gmail.com Specialising in U.S. personal income tax returns preparation, this firm is IRS Enrolled Agent qualified with big 4 experience. Also provides Vietnam tax and business legal consulting.

TMF GROUP

Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 2262 Tmg-group.com Headquartered in the Netherlands with over 100 offices in 75 countries, TMF provides accounting, tax and payroll services. Specialises in helping international investors establish a presence in Vietnam.

Advertising & Mktg BBDO VIETNAM

74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 6662 bbdoasia.com BBDO is an award-winning

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global advertising and communications company. Accolades include Network of the Year honours at Cannes four years running.

COWAN — STRATEGIC BRAND DESIGN

16th Floor, Bitexco Office Tower, 19–25 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 3064 cowandesign.com Working extensively across Asia, Cowean specialises in brand strategy and brand design for both local and international consumer and corporate companies.

DENTSU VIETNAM

AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9005 Dentsu.com.vn A 100 percent foreignowned advertising agency established in 2003. We provide through-the-line communication services from brand consultancy, creative concept and development, promotion, digital to media

planning and buying for Toyota, Aji-no-moto, Canon, Panasonic, Kao and Abbott among others.

GREY GROUP

404 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3929 1450 grey.com/vietnam This full-spectrum marketing / communications company offers PR, retail management, events and database marketing. Major clients include Proctor & Gamble, SmithKline, Beecham, BAT and Mars.

INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 6388 industrialdesignasia.com Dutch industrial designers with over 10 years of working experience in Asia offer (re)design, design engineering (3D CAD) and innovation consultancy for plastics, consumer products, electronics, and metal parts.

Kiko Flame

OIIC Building, 248-250 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: 0902 636950 ngonluakiko.com A graphic design studio specializing in creative design for print media and web. Recently established, we’re a group of highly skilled, well disciplined, professional artists, graphic designers and web developers offering you reliable and very affordable design services.

MARKETEERS VIETNAM

FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3933 3493 marketeersvietnam.com Managing successful marketing campaigns since

2002 with four full-service offices and project management available nationwide.

Marketeers Vietnam have designed and implemented locally and globally recognized campaigns.

OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q13 Tel: (08) 3821 9529 ogilvy.com Well–known marketing communications company combines local know-how with a worldwide network to leverage the brands of multinational clients.

PHIBIOUS

7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 3377 phibious.com An independent, creative–led communications company helps brands connect and grow across Southeast Asia.

Clients include The Coca–Cola Company, Asia Pacific Breweries, Piaggio and UPI.

PURPLE ASIA

9 Nguyen Huu Cash, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6277 7050 purpleasia.com A leading communications company, Purple Asia offers a wide range of services such as graphic design, branding, interactive media, video, photography and production.

HCMC RED | BRAND BUILDERS

10 Phan Ngu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 0169 red.vn Long-established branding consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team creates and shapes unique marketing strategies that add impact to international and local brands from Vietnam to Australia.

RIVER ORCHID

10th Floor HDTC Building, 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 2538 riverorchid.com Communications network operating in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar for over a decade, specialising in advertising, design, activation, digital, media, PR, research, training, premiums and production.

SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: (08) 3824 1207 saatchi.com Ranked among the top 100 global advertising agencies, S&S has worked with over half of the 50 best–known brands in the world, providing advertisement planning, direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic design.

TBWA\VIETNAM

4th Floor, Saigon Finance Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5315 tbwa.com.vn TBWA is a Top-Ten worldwide advertising agency, with marketing services including strategic consultancy, creative development, events and activation, direct mail, shopper marketing and public relations.

Business Consulting BDG VIETNAM

11th Floor, Capital Place, 6 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 7858 Bdg-vietnam.com Active in sourcing & production, strategic marketing and project management, BDG partners with clients in all sectors and regions to open perspectives, address critical challenges and promote successful business in Vietnam.

CONCETTI

33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 1481 Concetti.vn Consulting and research firm with a range of clients including the Vietnamese government, global US consumer products companies, infrastructure developers, oil companies and the World Bank.

GRANT THORNTON

28th Floor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 9100 Gt.com.vn Chartered accountants and management consultants work in a range of fields including Audit, Tax Advice, Corporate Finance and Advisory Services, Business Risk Services, Valuations and Due Diligence, Private Equity, and Mergers and Acquisitions.

INSPIRED IMAGE

Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0916 352573 Inspiredimage.co.uk An internationally accredited Master in Image Consulting, Huong Nguyen offers personal consultations and corporate workshops on developing a professional and confident image, modern etiquette and business behaviour skills.

PRISM INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 7305 0905 prism.com.vn A professional information technology services company offering expertise in data security, email, document management, web hosting, information and communication technology (ICT) relocation services and a full-range of other IT solutions.

ROUSE

6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 6770 iprights.com Specialist in intellectual property consultancy service providing the full range of IP services, from the implementation of global investigation

and enforcement strategies, to the provision of commercial IP services.

STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 0965 starcorpvn.com Aids in the opening of representative offices and offshore bank accounts and provides licenses and tax stamps, business and marketing plans, reports and English-language editing to offshore businesses based in Vietnam.

STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0904 410884 Powered by Haines Centre for Strategic Management, STRASOL strives to deliver superior results and sustained competitive advantage through the application of strategic solutions in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

TRACTUS ASIA LTD

164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2205 tractus-asia.com Tractus is a management consulting company that focuses on helping foreign investors gain success in Asia via corporate strategy development and implementation, site selection, trade promotion and market research.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 3402 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Business Groups AMCHAM

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 3562. amchamvietnam.com An independent association

of American and international businesses, the objective of the American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade and investment between the United States and Vietnam.

AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building, 179EF Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3832 9912 auschamvn.org A licensed foreign business group established to represent and promote the interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam, AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions, governmental relations meetings and charity events.

BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF VIETNAM

25 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 8430 bbgv.org BBGV promotes the interests of its members in addition to the more general interests of British business. Organises business luncheons and seminars as well as regular social and networking events.

CANCHAM

Room 305, New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 3754 canchamvietnam.org Open to all nationalities, the Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business associates together and to facilitate discussion forums about business in Vietnam.

NORDCHAM

17th Floor, Petroland Tower, 12 Tan Trao, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0922 nordcham.com Provides support for Nordic companies and individuals operating in Vietnam. A business and social network, members have the opportunity to meet, discuss, interact and share expertise.

PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP VIETNAM 40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045 pbgvn.com A non-profit organisation

that aims to promote and develop trade between the Philippines and Vietnam, to foster interaction and understanding and to serve as the voice of Filipino business entities.

SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP 6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3046 sbghcm.org 300+ members meet regularly to foster HCMC business relations, as well as to organise social, cultural, educational and charitable activities. Membership grants access to a wide range of discounts around town.

SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION 42 Giang Van Minh, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6996 swissvietnam.com The Swiss Business Association is a non-profit organisation that strives to promote economic and cultural activities, as well as cooperation between Swiss business entities and Vietnamese authorities.

Coaching & Training WE LINK

64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2900 welink.vn Short–term courses and workshops on discovering and developing self, applying psychology for a healthier life (personal, marital, parental). Courses for specialists / practitioners in human service fields. Train the trainer.

Practice with supervision.

Corporate Gifts AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD

14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8364 ambrij.com One-stop-shop for corporate gifts and merchandise ranging from shaped USB disks through to apparel, clocks, bags, golf products, wine accessories and more.

Corporate Services Endo

406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6292 2045 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

Event Management EVECOO

Tel: 0988 297990 evecoo.vn Evecoo provides everything needed to plan, supply, organise, publicise, improve and implement a successful event. Evecoo gives every client specific attention and adds the touches to make any event memorable.

GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6048 galaroyale.com.vn This luxury event hall has four ballrooms, a rooftop terrace, and banquet, catering and event services. Gala Royale is the ideal venue for meetings, conferences, product launchings, cocktail parties, weddings or anniversaries.

ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6299 0880 Wedding planning business offers comprehensive services for weddings of any size or style. Delivers high-quality, detailed planning and resources to create dream weddings.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Offers everything from canapés and cocktails, buffets and set menus to barbeques and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event management and exclusive venues to make any kind of event a success.

September 2013 Word | 103

HCMC

{job Search} Optimize Your LinkedIn Profile

By Nicola Connolly

D

id you know that you can optimize your LinkedIn profile so that you show up in more job searches? If you optimize your own LinkedIn profile you will show up higher on the list of potential candidate matches when recruiters or employers are looking to fill roles.

Just by making some small changes to your profile you can see BIG results.

89 percent of companies use LinkedIn for recruiting. In order for you to be found, you need a solid profile.

Here’s how to get there:

1) Write an expressive headline Your headline is the sentence that appears just below your name. Rather than just stating your title and company (if you currently have a job), make it a short phrase that provides a description of what your expertise is. This is especially important for those individuals who are

104 | Word September 2013

3) Add specialties and skills

not currently employed. For example: Experienced B2B content marketer, seeking position with interactive agency.

Yes, it’s bold to state that you are out of work, but understand that your network is willing to help you out if they know you are looking for your next opportunity.

2) Sit pretty Make sure you upload a professional photo of yourself, preferably in colour and against a light or neutral background that includes only yourself. No pictures at parties or with friends. Statistics show that a profile with a photo is seven times more likely to be viewed than one without.

There are two places in your profile where you can list your expertise. One is in the ‘specialties’ section under your summary and the other is under ‘skills’ (you can add up to 50 of them). Pay extra attention to skills, because this is one of the ways in which you will be found when someone conducts a search using keywords. Be specific, using terms such as: mobile marketing, IT project management, or user interface design.

With over 150 million members worldwide and growing, LinkedIn is the largest social networking site for business professionals. It’s one of the first places that a prospective employer will look and is widely used by recruiters, so it’s important to stand out from the crowd.

Use these tips to differentiate yourself, rank higher in searches and increase your likelihood of finding your next great opportunity.

Expat Services

and renters in all matters related to commercial and residential property.

SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD

International Plaza Building, Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 7553 A real estate agent providing a wide range of services including property sales, leasings, rentals, free brokerage and aftersales service.

Fideco Tower, 18th Floor, 81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9205 savills.com.vn Savills Vietnam is a leading property service provider in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory services, residential sales, commercial leasing, asset management, retail advisory, valuation, investment advisory and other services.

HAPPY HOUSE

CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM

SNAP

RESIDENT VIETNAM

EASY SAIGON

CHUM’S HOUSE

121/21 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7237 Dedicated to helping expats find housing, Chum’s House provides an extensive list of properties that fit any price range and preference. Also facilitates motorbike rentals and visa acquisition, all free of charge.

32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701, Q1 Tel: 01659 419916 Happy House aims to make Saigon life easier by offering practical solutions to every kind of problem — including bill payments, repairs, motorbike rentals, visa applications, maid placements, plant watering and pet transportation.

Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides services from relocation and immigration to cross–cultural and business awareness training.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933 0065 santaferelo.com With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management. Email info@santaferelo.com. vn for info.

Housing & Real Estate CBRE

12th Floor, Me Linh Point Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 6125 cbre.com Property developers and consultants with both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Issues a monthly newsletter with the latest property news. Also does research and management services.

Jones Lang lasalle

26th Foor, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang Q1. Tel: (08) 3910 3968 joneslanglasalle.com.vn Jones Lang LaSalle (NYSE:JLL) is a professional services and investment management firm offering specialized real estate services to clients seeking increased value by owning, occupying and investing in real estate. As a truly global firm, they work and collaborate closely with their colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to bring bestin-class services, people, and systems to their clients in Vietnam.

Their offices in Ho Chi Minh City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory, Research and Consulting, Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency, Industrial Agency, Project and Development Services, Property Asset Management Services, Hotel Investment and Consultancy Services, Integrated Facilities Management.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665 colliersmn.com/vietnam Represents property investors, developers

CREATION

Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 7968 Cushmanwakefield.vn Global real estate consultants, specialising in commercial / residential sales and leasing, project management, valuation and research & consultancy.

Tel: 0932 112694 easysaigon.com The Easy Saigon website is a useful real estate website helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City. Enquiries via their website are welcome.

KNIGHT FRANK

Suite A, level 7, VTP Office Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6777 knightfrank.com.vn Founded in 1896, Knight Frank has grown to become the world’s largest privately owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial, residential and residential development services.

NAMHOUSE CORPORATION

48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0989 007700 namhouse.com.vn Expert in providing rental properties, constructions and interior decoration, especially in District 2. Supports professional services and aftersales.

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4282 snap.com.vn Owners of Snap Café in District 2, Snap offers a web–based real estate search service with information on rental properties all around the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse to wading into the internet depths for their needs.

SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY

Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 2000 sothebysrealty.com.vn Vietnam Sotheby’s International Realty has access to residential real estate both for sale and lease around the world. Contact them to view high–end apartments, villas, resorts and island properties.

THE NEST

369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, Q9 Tel: 0903 198901 Thenest-vietnam.com Well–known property search and real estate agency with a useful website listing properties available for rent and sale, orientated towards expats. Website is in English, French and Spanish.

Insurance BAOVIET INSURANCE

49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3510 1661, Baoviet.com.vn Offers hospital costs paid up to VND40 billion

HCMC

{business Buff} A Sporting Life

By Shane Dillon

with no hidden hospital sub– limits for anyone up to age 74. Also includes a routine heath check and dental care.

No claims discount available.

IF CONSULTING

IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7362 insuranceinvietnam.com Independent advisors that represent top reputable medical insurers provide you with the best suitable medical cover for individual, family or company needs.

IGLOBALASSIST

Tel: 0934 874271 Iglobalassist.com Represents insurance programs offered by Seven Corners, and other global insurers. Customized health and travel cover options available at competitive rates for corporations, individuals, families, students, and groups.

Blue Cross Vietnam

M

any people think the average professional athlete has it made, paid to keep in shape and adored by fans — what could possibly go wrong? Well the truth of the matter is the majority of pro athletes are broke within five years of retiring from professional sport. While many of us will never have the opportunity to make millions of dollars in a few short years, there are some valuable lessons in their money management for all of us. Some notable superstars who ended up broke include: Allen Iverson, who was rated the fifth greatest shooting guard in NBA history and made over VND3,080 billion in salary and VND600 billion to VND800 billion in endorsements. He lived beyond his means after his playing career ended, spending an estimated VND7.2 billion a month on gambling, jewellery and nights out.

106 | Word September 2013

He ended up broke, his VND90 billion home was foreclosed and he owed over VND16 billion in jewellery debts.

Evander Holyfield made more than VND5,000 billion in his boxing career yet had many expenses along the way. A major expense is the child support money for his nine children to six different women. He also owned a record label and a grilling device sold through TV infomercials. In 2008 his VND200 billion dollar home was in foreclosure and he was being sued for VND10 billion in unpaid bills.

George Best played 21 years as one of European football’s greatest players. He made over VND2,000 billion dollars before he lost it all when he became an alcoholic. He is quoted as saying, “I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered.”

Mike Tyson earned more than VND600 billion per fight at one point of his career and somehow squandered an estimated VND8,000 billion fortune before declaring bankruptcy in 2003.

John Daly, a man as famous for his golf as his drinking, admitted recently that he has lost VND1,000 billion gambling during his career.

He was also divorced four times leaving him with huge monthly bills and little to no monthly income.

Marion Jones was labeled the fastest woman in the world at one point in her life while she made over VND140 billion dollars a year.

She lost everything, including all her gold medals, thanks to steroids, counterfeiting, check forging, committing perjury to the IRS, money laundering and illegal drugs.

Shane works in financial services; he welcomes your comments or questions at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn

8th Floor, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9908 inquiry@bluecross.com.vn www.bluecross.com.vn Blue Cross Vietnam is part of the Pacific Cross group of companies with over 60 years’ experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home. Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable service means they are the strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are getting the most out of your insurance contact them for a free quote.

LIBERTY INSURANCE

15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3812 5125 libertyinsurance.com.vn Provides a range of services to both commercial enterprises and individuals.

Coverage includes property, liability, business interruption, marine cargo, automobile, home and travel, as well as expat healthcare.

PRUDENTIAL

25th F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1660 prudential.com.vn Operating in Vietnam since 1995, Prudential has over 70 customer care centres throughout the country.

Interior Design Professional Painting and Remodeling

Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren Hawk) Thinking about upgrading a bathroom? Perhaps a new

colour in the living room? Maybe even a new wood floor? Professional Painting and Remodeling can help with these and many other projects. Provide international standards of quality as well as professional and timely service at reasonable rates. Call today to schedule a free evaluation.

Investment & Finance DRAGON CAPITAL

1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9355 dragoncapital.com An integrated financial services provider, with an exclusive focus on Vietnam’s capital markets. Established in 1994, the group is one of the largest and most experienced asset managers in Vietnam.

VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE TRAINING & TRANSLATION

37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6678 0914 vnccentre.com Provides Vietnamese language training by qualified and experienced teachers, and expert certification, notarization and translation for all types of materials and documents.

VUS

189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9800 vus-etsc.edu.vn One of the largest and most respected language institutions in the city, VUS offers programmes that are designed in cooperation with the City University of New York.

Legal Services

THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT GROUP

27 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0907 ethicalinvestmentgroup.co.uk The Ethical Investment Group is dedicated to offering alternative investments to investors looking to make quality, above-average returns, while simultaneously expressing a social conscience with meaningful, measurable and sustainable environmental benefits.

TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT

ALLENS

Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1717 vietnamlaws.com Australian law firm providing standard legal services to corporate clients, Allens’ website is also an excellent resource for English translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam Legal Update.

66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 0623 t-wm.com Offers personal financial planning for expatriates, portable retirement savings plans, tax minimisation strategies, asset allocation and money management, debt and cash–flow planning, life, disability and health insurance and family wealth protection.

BAKER & MCKENZIE

VINACAPITAL

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 2733 frasersvn.com Frasers Law Company is an integrated team providing international legal advice in a Vi-

17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9930 vinacapital.com A leading investment fund management company with extensive experience in the emerging Vietnam market. Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is a US$839 million investment fund.

Language Schools ILA VIETNAM

146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3521 8788 ilavietnam.com A foreign-owned education and training company that offers a range of educational programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes, corporate training, teacher training and overseas study consultancy and placement services.

L’ATELIER

33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0908 381492 latelier-anphu.com Offers classes to francophone and other foreign children and adults. Classes include monitoring for the French Education Programme, preparing for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), Vietnamese lessons and extracurricular activities.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771 vietnameselanguagegarden.com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalised one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and central campus or at your home, office or over Skype.

VLS SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 0168 Vlstudies.com Offers courses ranging from basic conversational Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and advanced levels, as well as special courses including Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival crash course.

12th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5585 bakermckenzie.com Baker & McKenzie provides on–the–ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

FRASERS LAW COMPANY

etnamese context on all matters of business and commerce.

GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8599 gide.com A leading international law firm with 19 offices worldwide. The Vietnam office offers clients high quality service that combines legal expertise with a highly commercial approach, across all sectors of business law.

INDOCHINE COUNSEL

Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9640 indochinecounsel.com A business law–focused practice established in 2006, Indochine Counsel assists both international and local clients in meeting the various legal needs related to their business and investment.

MAYER BROWN JSM

17th Floor, Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8860 mayerbrownjsm.com Operating in Vietnam since 1994, the firm provides clients with a full range of legal services in all areas, including corporate, real estate, banking and finance and all forms of inward investment.

Management Training EMBERS ASIA

80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3822 4728 embers-asia.com The first team-building provider established in Vietnam, Embers specializes in ensuring success in globally competitive markets.

Embers’ HR performance management services include excursions, strategic planning retreats, conference facilitations and training workshops.

HCMC ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 6292 9288 erci.edu.vn With campuses throughout Southeast Asia, ERC offers a comprehensive range of business courses from soft skills development programmes to tourism and hospitality, all the way through to MBAs.

G&H

6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 9919 ghmsglobal.com A 100 percent foreign–invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in–house programmes to meet the particular requirements of its clients. Offers teambuilding and academic–based business and management programmes.

XAGE CONSULTANCY

35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 3402 31st Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 0454 xageconsulting.com An international human resource management consultancy specialising in organisational and professional development. Services include assessment and development, team building, corporate training, HRM audits and HR systems design.

Market Research

ment commercial offices.

Consulting services focus on market sizing, investment analysis and trade promotion.

NIELSEN

CentrePoint Building, Level 4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhan Tel: (08) 3997 8088 vn.nielsen.com Global information and measurement company, with leading market positions in marketing and consumer information, television and other media measurement, online intelligence, mobile measurement, trade shows and related properties.

TNS VIETNAM

58 Vo Van Tan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 6631 Tnsvietnam.vn With over 11 years in the marketplace, TNS Vietnam offers all three major market research services — customisation, access panels and media monitoring — to a range of local and international clients.

Photography Services Dragon Images

Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 01643 172 660 dragonimages.asia Dragon Images production studio is a professional team of photographers, stylists. shooting administrators, casting managers and retouchers. They make photos on various topics, from business to sport.

INDOCHINA RESEARCH

3rd Floor, 140 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 6965 indochinaresearch.com Provides a regional perspective on consumer, retail and social research to a range of multinational organisations operating in Indochina.

MEKONG RESEARCH

91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6258 6314 mekongresearch.com Providing business-to-business and industry market research since 1997. Clients include multinationals, investment funds and govern-

ADECCO VIETNAM

11th floor, Empire Tower, 26 - 28 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 3430 adecco.com.vn Adecco is the world leader in human resources solutions.

Established in Vietnam in 2011, Adecco offers a wide array of global workforce solutions and specialises in finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM CO., LTD.

Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B-2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur, District 1, HCMC. Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi. www.vieclambank.com info@vieclambank.com VieclamBank is a brand of G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment.

Established in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting executive and senior level, providing Vietnamese and Japanese candidates with experience studying abroad or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and competitive service suitable for many types of business.

HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

CIMIGO

9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3822 7727 cimigo.vn An independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in the Asia Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models and assessing market opportunities.

Recruitment & HR

Public Relations MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS

Level 5, 273-273B Ben Chuong Duong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 5517 matterhorncommunications. com Providing public relations and communications support to international and local firms operating in Vietnam. Specialising in corporate communications, media relations, corporate social responsibility and media and issues management and training.

VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 0462 veropr.com Vero Public Relations helps clients expand their footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand through effective public relations campaigns. Services offered include branding, media relations, event management, public affairs and issues / crisis management.

Want to know what’s going on in this city? Go to

108 | Word September 2013

1st Floor, Thien Son Building, 5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 6288 3888 hr2b.com Established in 2003, HR2B is one of Vietnam’s top three HR consulting firms, specialising in finding opportunities for senior level professionals.

Other services include payroll outsourcing, contract staffing and HR management consulting.

MANPOWER VIETNAM

8th Floor, Resco Building, 9496 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 0950 manpower.com.vn The first global recruitment company to set up locally, Manpower offers a range of services for the entire employment and business cycle.

NAVIGOS GROUP

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5000 navigosgroup.com Well–known human resources agency with a wide range of services including executive search and online recruitment.

OPUS VIETNAM

5th Floor Vitic Building. 6B Nguyen Thanh Y, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 8209 opusasia.net Established in Ho Chi Minh City in 2005, Opus services local and multinational companies seeking to recruit high quality personnel. A partner of Horton International, one of the world’s leading search groups.

VIETNAMWORKS.COM

130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel: (08) 5404 1373 vietnamworks.com Online job-search website with one of the best selections of jobs in Vietnam.

Also contains sections with career tips, CV writing advice and information on training courses.

Relocation Agents AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0071 agsfourwinds.com A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices globally, we can move your property to and from any location.

ALLIED PICKFORDS

58 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3454 alliedpickfords.com With more than 800 offices in over 45 countries, Allied Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also provides tailored relocation services.

A SI A N T I G ERS TRANSPO INTERNATIONAL 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, REE Tower 9 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: (08) 3826 7799 asiantigersgroup.com Asian Tigers is one of the largest regional move management specialists, with services including door-todoor moving, housing and school searches, local and office moves and pet relocations.

CROWN RELOCATIONS

2nd Floor Coteccons Office Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3840 4237 crownrelo.com Crown Relocations services include expense management, policy consulting and programme administration, storage, transit protection and domestic and international transportation of household goods.

JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: (08) 3826 7655

wordvietnam.com

jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is a leader in the field.

LOGICAL MOVES — VIETNAM

396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: (08) 3941 5322 logicalmoves.net Specialists in international, local, domestic and office moves for household goods and personal effects through our global partner network.

Experts in exporting used scooters that do not have documentation.

RESIDENT VIETNAM

Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 2226 8855 residentvietnam.com The first dedicated relocation company in Vietnam, Resident Vietnam provides a full range of destination services, cross–cultural training and immigration management services.

SAIGON EXPRESS AGENCY LIMITED

7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo, Q4 Tel: (08) 3826 8850 seal.com.vn SEAL offers a complete range of relocation services, including global and local relocation services to, from and within Vietnam. SEAL is also an accredited pet relocation agent.

Serviced Apartments CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3993 1587 camlyapartment@hcm. vnn.vn With a total of 10 studio apartments for long-term lease, each unit comes fully furnished with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. Rates are subject to the duration of stay.

CITYVIEW

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1111 Cityview.com.vn Conveniently located only five minutes from downtown, Cityview has 69 fully–furnished apartments.

Facilities include a gym, billiards lounge, kids playroom, restaurant and laundry.

INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON RESIDENCES Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van Huu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 8888 intercontinental.com/saigonres Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon you’ll find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The residences offer panoramic

views of the downtown area.

NORFOLK MANSION

17–19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 6111 norfolkmansion.com.vn Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished accommodation with attentive and discreet service.

Facilities include an outdoor swimming pool, a gym, sauna and steam room, as well as two on-site restaurants.

RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 4111 Riverside-apartments.com Over four Saigon Riverbank hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort lifestyle with the amenities of a fully serviced-apartment.

Located minutes from downtown by high-speed boat shuttle.

SEDONA SUITES

65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9666 sedonahotels.com.sg Located in the centre of town above Saigon Center, 89 well–appointed one to three-bedroom apartments come complete with full housekeeping services and fully–equipped kitchenettes.

SHERWOOD RESIDENCE

127 Pasteur, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 2288 sherwoodresidence.com Sherwood Residence is a luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime location, comfort and class, with five–star facilities and service.

SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8899 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9197 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 6255 9922 somerset.com Somerset Chancellor Court, Somerset Ho Chi Minh City and Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City serviced residences combine the space and privacy of an apartment with the services of a top-rated hotel. They come with separate living and dining areas, as well as a fully equipped kitchen where guests can prepare a meal for themselves, their family and friends.

THE LANDMARK

5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 thelandmarkvietnam.com 65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a comprehensive health club for tenants and members, a squash court and a 16th floor swimming pool.

HCMC

EAT

* *

RESTAURANTS

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants

French & Italian BIBI@ALIBI

5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6257 The legendary chef Bibi’s newest creation, a convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine using fresh products bought early morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the famous tarte tatin.

CIAO BELLA

NEW YORK-ITALIAN 11 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3329 saigonrestaurantgroup.com New York-style Italian restaurant offering a range of tasty and affordable antipasti, pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film legends make for a relaxed and attractive setting.

L’OLIVIER

FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 sofitel.com

Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant has quarterly Michelin star promotions and an award winning pastry team.

LA BRASSERIE DE SAIGON

FRENCH / PARISIEN 38 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3657 Chic art nouveau decor surrounds this dining experience ­– but the streetside seafood stand draws the focus back to where it should be, on the fresh, authentic Parisian cuisine.

LA CUISINE

FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN 48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 2229 8882 lacuisine.com.vn This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine.

Has a small but well thought out menu, backed up with an extensive wine list.

LA HOSTARIA

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN 17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 1080 lahostaria.com This downtown hideaway with rustic–style decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello d’antico. Also specializes in excellent wood-fired pizzas.

LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON

CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION 40 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 9263 lebouchondesaigon.com A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic staples such as French onion soup, escargot, and moules marinières, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world wines.

LE JARDIN

CLASSIC FRENCH 31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8465 Unpretentious but tasty

French fare in a relaxed garden setting within the French cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap house wine is served by the carafe.

LA PLANCHA

25 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 8521 Home-cooked, bistro-style fare at reasonable prices. Has a great outdoor terrace and the cuisine is embellished with the real taste of France and The Mediterranean. A popular local haunt.

LUCCA

TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN 88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3691 A contemporary trattoria in the heart of Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine with New York flair in a beautifully designed space with high ceilings. The menu features both traditional antipasti and substantial main courses.

MINH KHA CAFÉ (K CAFÉ) FRENCH BISTRO 28 Do Quang Dau, Q1

Tel: 09765 52042 kcafevietnam.com French backpacker area mainstay attracting a clientele made up of Gallic expats and tourists. Excellent food menu with daily specials backs up a long bar seating area perfect for cradling a Ricard.

OPERA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant with a tried–and–tested Italian menu backed up by a compact wine list from regions like Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.

PENDOLASCO

PAN-ITALIAN 36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: (08) 6253 2828 pendolasco.vn Opening out into a large, leafy terracotta-tiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian restaurant serves up quality homemade pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at 87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.

STELLA CAFE

ITALIAN / VIETNAMESE 119-121 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 9220 Two-storey Stella serves very reasonable Italian food — antipasti, pasta, pizza, insalata plus meats and fish — at

reasonable prices. Also has Wi-Fi, cool aircon, and one of the best lattes around. Now no-smoking indoors.

TROIS GOURMANDS

CLASSIC FRENCH 18 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 4585 3gourmandsaigon.com Trois Gourmands is the successor to the legendary Le Toit Gourmand in Tan Binh, and continues to serve up some of the best Gallic fare in town. The seven-course, wine-paired dinner remains excellent value.

International AL FRESCO’S

INTERNATIONAL 27 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 38238424 alfrescosgroup.com The downtown outlet of one of Vietnam’s most successful restaurant chains, Al Fresco’s offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match. Excellent delivery service.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

BRAZILIAN / BUFFET 238 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 7157 aulacdobrazil.com Latino ambiance with great meat dishes and attractive, spacious décor. The churrasco, with 12 cuts of barbecued and cured meats plus unlimited salad, is hand carved at your table. Can get busy.

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HCMC AU PARC

{F OO D Promos } Promotions of the Month

EUROPEAN / CAFÉ 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2772 auparcsaigon.com Consistently tasty European café fare — think deli-style sandwiches, salads and mezzes, plus coffees and juices — served at a popular park-side Le Duan location with classic cream and green-tiled décor.

BEIRUT

LEBANESE The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2188 A Lebanese restaurant and shisha lounge located downtown, encompasses a multiple-floored restaurant and extensive garden area.

As the name suggests the menu has a Lebanese/Arabic theme.

BLACK CAT

Crocodile Hunters @ Windsor Plaza Hotel windsorplazahotel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel is running an exclusive BBQ at Café Central An Dong in September. Served in Asian and Continental styles, options including crocodile with Vietnamese herbs, while beef, pork and chicken prepared over an open fire are available. Weekdays it runs VND468,000++ per person, weekends and holidays VND498,000++.

This café is also running a newly designed buffet with a combination of western and traditional Vietnamese dishes every day. There are choices for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians. An a la carte menu and dessert selection is available for dine-in or takeaway.

Upping Steaks @ NY Steakhouse steakhouse.com.vn Steak lovers can enjoy America’s high-quality steaks and wines at New York Steakhouse’s Yearly American Festival from Sep. 3 to Sep. 16. This event will feature exclusively USDA corn-fed heavy western beef, as well as a selection of California wine.

Other choices are sea scallops wrapped with bacon, Brussels sprouts and parmesan truffle fries.

Diners can also enjoy special shows performed by

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ventriloquist Christian and puppet Fredy, from Sep. 3 to Sep. 10. Fredy is a speaking monkey and has been on tour all over the world.

Howl at the Moon! @ Shang Palace shangpalace.com.vn Shang Palace celebrates the start of the Mid-Autumn season with handmade mooncakes.

Guests can choose from eight flavours presented in limitededition boxes. The delicacies run VND595,000+, and will be available until Sep. 19. @ Hotel Equatorial hcm.equatorial.com To celebrate the Moon festival, Hotel Equatorial is offering seven mooncake boxes with mooncakes in 12 delicate flavours, all priced at VND598,000 per box of four.

Guests can also personalise their moon cake boxes by adding their company name and logo. Free deliveries to Districts 1, 3, 5, 10 for orders over 50 boxes.

Sunset Service @ 27 Grill chillsaigon.com 27 Grill, the restaurant on the floor above Chill Skybar, offers a Sunset Menu from 5.30pm to 7pm everyday. Guests can enjoy a variety of choices suitable for business dinners or leisurely gettogethers with friends. Priced at VND500,000++ per person.

AMERICAN 13 Phan Van Dat, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2055 blackcatsaigon.com Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails, mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular two-storey eatery close to the river.

BOAT HOUSE

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6790 Live music, mini-festivals and functions are regular events at this spacious restobar in An Phu on the banks of the Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.

BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON

INTERNATIONAL / GRILL CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 6592 boomarang.com.vn Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and bar on The Crescent with great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned international fare, all set in a contemporary, spacious environment.

BROTZEIT

GERMAN / RESTOBAR Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4206 brotzeit.co/kumholink The city’s first contemporary German beer bar and restaurant, Brotzeit offers well known German beer accompanied by authentic Bavarian Cuisine —sausages, schnitzels and more — in a relaxed yet chic drinking hall setting.

CENTRAL PARC BANH MI

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8549 Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule, New Yorkthemed sandwich shop does creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices — think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels. Excellent delivery service.

CHI’S CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40/31 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 2502 Chiscafe.com This affable café is a rarity in the backpacker area for its genuinely good musical playlist. Excellent, build-your-own breakfasts, baked potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a popular motorbike rental service.

CIRRUS

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Level 51, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8751 cirrussaigon.com Highest dining in the city.

Modern international and pan-Asian fine dining cuisine with 360-degree sweeping views. Open theatre kitchen, mezzanine seating and 300+ label walk-in wine cellar.

CORSO

STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing range of US and Australian steaks plus great grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite.

Decent-sized steaks start at VND390,000.

ELBOW ROOM

AMERICAN 52 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4327 elbowroom.com.vn The comfort food on offer at this striking US-style diner ranges from meatball baguettes to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken salads and a selection of more expensive international mains.

EL GAUCHO

ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE 5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1879 Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6909 elgaucho.com.vn A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork, chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage, skewers, burger dishes and everything that can come off a grill.

HOG’S BREATH CAFÉ

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066 hogsbreathcafe.com.vn Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.

JASPA’S WINE & GRILL

INTERNATIONAL FUSION The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 0931 Alfrescosgroup.com Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good and creative. Excellent ser-

vice, an attractive outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu. Check out their pepper steaks.

LE BANH MI

12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1036 Imagine traditional Vietnamese banh mi, put it in a French baguette, add in a nice sauce or two and you have the diminutive Le Banh Mi. Excellent baguettes at cheap prices, with a choice of three sauces.

MARKET 39

INTERNATIONAL BUFFET Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Buffet restaurant specialising in a boutique selection of appetisers, local and imported seafood, succulent steaks from the grill, and hand-crafted noodles. Bakery operates throughout day to ensure that every dish arrives fresh.

MEKONG MERCHANT

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE / SEAFOOD 23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6478 info@mekongmerchant.com The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the place in An Phu. Set around a cobblestoned courtyard the cuisine includes gourmet seafood and pastas. Bakery-style Bistro out front.

MOGAMBO

PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 50 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1311 mogambo@saigonnet.vn Mogambo is one of the city’s longest running establishments. A well-known expat meeting spot, with dishes running from fajitas and burritos through to the coronary bypass burger, gumbo and ribs.

Bahdja

87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel: 0122 763 1261 bahdjarestaurant@gmail. com Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel, Bahdja is Saigon’s first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber North African and Mediterranean cuisine cooked and served in a traditional Algerian style. Best experienced in a group, this small but pleasant restaurant’s soothing ambience is matched by the owners’ genuine hospitality and complimented by an array of tasty tajines and couscous-based dishes.

Make sure to try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.

NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE

AMERICAN / FRENCH 25–27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373 steakhouse.com.vn NYSW is well known for serving up formidable prime signature cuts of New York strip steak, rib eye, double strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.

NINETEEN

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Great buffets draw daily crowds to this downtown hotel restaurant. Streamlined décor and clean lines create a modern ambience that makes an excellent backdrop for the extensive range of cuisine.

PACHARAN

SPANISH / EUROPEAN 97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924 Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharan’s food menu is traditionally Spanish.

PARKVIEW

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Flagship restaurant of The New World Hotel, serving lavish buffets all day. Many cooking stations ranging from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads, cold cuts, cheese plates and desserts.

PASHA

TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677 pasha.com.vn Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant close to the mosque with Islamic-style white dome décor and comfortable, cushioned seating.

Authentically Turkish cuisine with a sprinkling of western fare thrown in.

PIZZA 4P’S

EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838 pizza4ps.com This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more traditional varieties.

REFINERY

FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0509 therefinerysaigon.com A slightly retro feel pervades this popular French-style bistro and wine bar which once housed the city’s opium refinery. The cuisine runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.

REFLECTIONS

INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING 3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 Old images of Saigon grace the walls while a pianist plays in the background of the Caravelle’s signature restaurant. The fare is surprisingly contemporary. Good choice for a particularly special meal.

RIVERSIDE CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN Renaissance Riverside, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Offers versatile all–day dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.

SCOTT AND BINH’S

INTERNATIONAL 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: 0948 901465 bizuhotel.com/main/pages/scottbinhs.php

Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this restaurant boasts a full bar, ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus on the creative use of local ingredients.

at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and most unusual in the city. All complemented by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy terrace out front.

SHRI

JAPANESE NOODLES 29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008 Bright, airy and spacious with sake bottles hung across the wall, the menu here focuses on ramen noodles, starting at around VND100,000 a dish. Also rice and dumpling options.

CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 23rd Floor, Centec Tower, 72–74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631 A breezy terrace, indoor bar and separate dining room with sweeping views over central Saigon make up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought out and romantic venue, with excellent food.

SKEWERS

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798 skewers-restaurant.com Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.

STRATA

INTERNATIONAL/ASIAN Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 8750 cirrussaigon.com All-day restaurant and events venue offering a panoramic view of Saigon. Food offered includes an express business lunch, high tea, and buffet dinner, along with an a la carte menu.

The Burger Corner

INTERNATIONAL 43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094 This dedicated, two-floor burger restaurant offers Vietnamese-style burgers, with patties made from anything from beef to crispy shrimp and mushroom. Has a nice local feel to it that you won’t find in the fast food joints

THE DECK

MODERN ASIAN FUSION 38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6632 thedecksaigon.com Set on the banks of Saigon River across from Thanh Da Island, this innovative restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails and a long wine list.

Vesper Bar

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9698 Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and lounge-style atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

WARDA

MIDDLE-EASTERN 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 3822 info@wardavn.com The deep colours, Arabic décor and cushioned outdoor terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch. The food is good, too, taking in tabouleh, houmous, falafel and mutabbal, shwarmas and more. Sells authentic shisha.

ZOOM CAFÉ

AMERICAN / TEX-MEX 169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 3897 vietnamvespaadventures.com/cafe_zoom This corner-located Vespa-infatuated venue is a café and restaurant by day and a sidewalk drinking joint by night. Friendly staff and American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular expat haunt.

Japanese BLANCHY STREET

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8793 The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito, the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine

DRAGON NOODLE

A Ta ste of Authenticity

INAHO

SUSHI / SASHIMI 4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326 The restaurant of famed chef Ryoichi ‘Roy’ Iwashita, from Osaka, Inaho features some of the best sushi and sashimi in town, with faultless ingredients and presentation.

OSAKA RAMEN

JAPANESE NOODLES 18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7 Noodles can be found in every form in this sleek, open-kitchened eatery. Noodles are served in sets — the lunchtime offering goes for just over VND100,000 — or as individual dishes.

SUSHI DINING AOI

SUSHI / SASHIMI 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 0039 sushidiningaoi.com Sushi Dining AOI offers full-blown Japanesestyle sushi, sashimi, and other dishes such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles in a warm and friendly atmosphere.

Good value set lunches. Probably the best sushi in town.

Tamago

Authentic Japanese 39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 4634 tamagoresto@gmail.com Located on the main drag in Thao Dien, Tamago has indoor and out door seating, a terrace and private rooms. They have a ladies’ night on Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on Saturday evenings. Have a second restaurant in Mui Ne.

TOKYO BBQ

JAPANESE BARBECUE 15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2527 Japanese eatery specialising in all things barbecue, the charcoal-grilled beef cooked at the table is to die for, and various other meat and vegetable options are good, too.

Great lunch set.

YAMANEKO

JAPANESE / OKINAWA 13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8433 yamaneko–vn.com Funky Yamaneko — down an alley off Le Thanh Ton — offers delicious, unpretentious Okinawan fare alongside mainland staples.

Does a great set lunch deal.

Pan-Asian ASHOKA

NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177 ashokaindianrestaurant.com Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy curries and Chinese-Indian fare.

BAAN THAI

PAN-THAI 55 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 5453 baanthai-anphu.com Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this An Phu eatery. The menu has a whole page dedicated to tom yum soup as well as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam.

Thai cuisine cooked up by no-holds-barred Thai chefs.

36 Tong Huu Dinh Street, Thao Dien Ward, District 2, HCMC Tel: 08 6253 2828 |Fax: 08 6253 2888 Email: info@pendolasco.vn Delivery service available daily, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

87 Nguyen Hue St., District 1, HCMC Tel: (84.8) 3821 8181 Email: pendolasco3@hcm.vnn.vn Monday to Friday: 11.00 - 14.00, and 18.00 - 22.00 Saturday and Sunday: 11.30 - 22.00 www.pendolasco.vn

HCMC DELIVERY Ben Style

Tel: 0906 912730 www.vietnammm.com/ restaurants-ben-style Healthy, calorie-counted sandwich and deli fare

Chez Guido

Tel: (08) 3898 3747 www.chezguido.com Vietnamese, international fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches

Domino’s Pizza

Tel: (08) 3939 3030 www.dominos.vn Pizzas, wings, desserts

Eat.Vn

www.eat.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

el gato negro

Tel: (08) 6660 1577 Californian-style burritos

HUNGRYPANDA.VN

www.hungrypanda.vn Delivery service website for local restaurants

KFC

Tel: (08) 3848 9999 www.kfcvietnam.com.vn Fried chicken, chicken burgers, sides

KABIN BABA’S KITCHEN

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 164 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 6661 babaskitchen.in This pleasant, airy Indian does the full range of fare from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka masala, kormas, kebabs and fiery vindaloos.

BOMBAY INDIAN

INDIAN MALAY 35 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: 0903 863114 Long running hole-in-thewall halal restaurant opposite the Mosque selling a selection of Malaysian-style Indian cuisine. Simple fancooled dining area with all dishes costing well under VND100,000.

CORIANDER

THAI / VIETNAMESE 185 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 1311 Owned by a Thai-trained Vietnamese chef this is one of the few eateries in town serving up very good panThai cuisine. Great value, with mains generally around VND70,000.

DYNASTY

Lotteria

Tel: (08) 3910 0000 www.lotteria.vn Burgers, fried chicken, sides

CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant surroundings, top quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable, roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese restaurants in town, with a classic dim sum menu.

PHAT PHUC’s

GANESH

2A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4520 British-style pan-Chinese

Pizza Hut (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388 www.pizzahut.vn Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers

Scoozi

Tel: (08) 3823 5795 www.scoozipizza.com Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts

Taco Bich

www.tacobich.com Homemade Mexican fare

willy woo’s

Tel: (08) 3941 5433 www.blackcatsaigon. com US-style chicken and waffles

Vietnammm

www.vietnammm.com Delivery service website for local restaurants

Zipang

Tel: (08) 3824 4136 Japanese bento and rice sets. Go to vietnammm. com for menu

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3017 ganesh.restaurant. vn@hotmail.com The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and creamy and the curries are both authentic and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the best Indian in town. Very friendly service.

CANTONESE Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 8–15 Ton Duc Thang. Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0033 marriott.com Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine in an elegant, classic setting, with striking décor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to VND900,000.

KOH THAI

CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4423 Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and more. Koh Thai’s creative cocktails merge Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and herbs.

LION CITY

SINGAPOREAN 45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 8371 lioncityrestaurant.com Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery, plating up the likes of nasi lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish head curry.

MONSOON

PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN 1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08) 6290 8899 Traditional pan-Southeast Asian favourites served in a visually arresting setting within a French colonial-era villa, just minutes from the backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy juices and smoothies.

SEOUL HOUSE

KOREAN 33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297 seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr Seoul House was the first Korean restaurant in town and continues to be popular with a cosmopolitan clientele. Food includes banchan starters, bulgogi, awesome spicy tofu and minced pork soups.

GOLDEN ELEPHANT

CLASSIC THAI 34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1Tel: (08) 3822 8554 saigonssk@vnn.vn Excellent, long-running restaurant with classic Thai decor. The fare includes laab salads, curries, som tam, fish cakes and dishes such as deep-fried catfish with mango salad. Three VIP rooms upstairs.

GOURMET’S DELIGHT

ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 8181 gourmetsdelight.com.vn Hong Kong casual dining restaurant, Gourmet’s Delight Roast Kitchen is the first of its kind in Saigon serving authentic barbeque and traditional Cantonese dishes in a laid-back atmosphere.

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SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT

PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 2221 shangpalace.com.vn Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong, Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms and a main dining area seating over 300. Good for events.

TANDOOR

NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN 74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839 Tandoorvietnam.com Downtown location, and extensive menu taking in anything from creamy korma and rogan josh curries through to vindaloo, sambhar, dosa, and kebabs. Also a great range of vegetarian fare.

YU CHU

PAN-CHINESE 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental. com/saigon Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles, fresh dim sum and hot wok dishes within an impeccably designed open kitchen, as diners look on. Stylish and spectacular.

Vegetarian PHAP HOA

VEGETARIAN 200 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3839 5893 Good vegetarian eatery with a well-stocked and enticing com binh dan buffet-style counter in the entrance. It’s a pick and choose affair, with a range of faux meat dishes.

The staff, though, are not know for their politeness.

SAIGON VEGAN

Street Food BANH XEO 46A

BANH XEO / HUE CUISINE 46A Dinh Cong Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1110 One of the best banh xeo — pork, beansprout and prawn pancakes served up with salad and fresh herbs — joints in town. No frills, outdoor, covered bench seating.

BEEFSTEAK NAM SON

VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE 200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 157 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917 Namsonsteak.com Specialises in tasty Vietnamese or Australian steak served sizzling on a griddle with thick–cut fries, bread and salad, optional pate or eggs, all for well under VND100,000.

COM TAM THUAN KIEU

COM TAM (BITTY RICE) 26 Ton That Tung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0935 comtamthuankieu.com.vn Downtown branch of the famous budget Thuan Kieu eatery. Broken rice with barbecued pork, bitter gourd broth, stuffed squid etc.

Average meal price just VND35,000. English menu.

PHO HOA

PHO EATERY 260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7943 Huge sized portions dished up at this famous restaurant serving Vietnam’s national dish. Choose from a range of cuts of beef, fresh herbs and spice to taste.

TAN HAI VAN

PAN-CHINESE / NOODLES 162 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 0824 Bustling 24-hour restaurant offering the full range of Chinese fare, including dim sum, homemade noodle soup, rice and seafood dishes. Perfect if you have an attack of midnight munchies.

TIEM COM GA HAI NAM

CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH DAN 67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 7751 Few places do Hainanesestyle chicken rice as well as this multi-storey eatery. Prepared downstairs out front, choose from chicken, sweetroasted pork, roasted duck, and a range of other options.

VEGAN 378/3 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3834 4473 91/12 Hoa Hung, Q10, Tel: (08) 3864 0154 Saigonvegan.com A pleasant, standalone eatery with the feel of a meditative retreat specialising in hotpots. The vegan menu, however, runs the gamut from faux meat through to noodle and rice dishes.

TIN NGHIA

VEGAN 9 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2538 One of the city’s oldest eateries (established in 1925) does some of the cheapest and tastiest vegan cuisine in town, all cooked up without onions, garlic or MSG.

VIET CHAY

VEGAN Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 vietchay.vn Set inside the city’s largest pagoda, this eatery has received many plaudits for its setting, reverent ambiance and interesting menu which includes salted tofu in claypot and hundred flowers hotpot.

Vietnamese 3T QUAN NUONG

VIETNAMESE BBQ Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 1631 A steamy, smoky rooftop homage to the art of barbecuing and grilling, with an expansive menu of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes on offer, all grilled at the table.

Often packed to the brim.

BARBECUE GARDEN

VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3340 barbecuegarden.com A charming, leafy outdoor terrace area lit up by fairy lights plays host to one of downtown’s most popular and alluring eateries. It’s a DIY barbecue on the table affair.

CAFÉ IF

VIETNAMESE FRENCH 38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3846 9853 MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a French twist, cooked fresh to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and beef stew, stir fries, hot pots and curries.

CUC GACH QUAN

MODERN VIETNAMESE 10 Dang Tat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3848 0144 A converted French villa with mixed Indochine and rustic Vietnamese décor, the cuisine here is scrumptious, mixing street food dishes done well with quality ingredients and more contemporary options.

HIGHWAY 4

NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE 101 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3602 2069 highway4.com Named after the mountain highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to the north, Highway 4 serves up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does excellent Son Tinh branded rice wine.

HOA TUC

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1676 Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace.

Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.

LUONG SON

PAN-VIETNAMESE 31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1330 Famous for its signature dish, bo tung xeo — strips of grilled marinated beef, as well as its slightly more unusual offerings — scorpion, grubs, ostrich and crickets.

Try if you dare!

MAY RESTAURANT

INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE 3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 1277 May-cloud.com Meaning ‘Cloud’, May utilises homemade recipes and broths developed by the restaurateur’s father, such as pan-fried duck breast served with nuoc mam and ginger, and 1940s style spring rolls.

This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in an Indochine atmosphere.

NAM GIAO

HUE CUISINE 136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 38 250261 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9996 namgiao.com Down an alley near Ben Thanh Market, this pleasant Hue-style eatery is known for its excellent central Vietnamese cuisine. Think banh beo, bun thit nuong, com hen, all at under VND50,000.

NHA HANG NGON

STREET FOOD 160 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7131 A well-spruced, leafy courtyard in a colonial villa provides the setting and the old-world charm for one of the city’s most frequented Vietnamese eateries which serves up quality street food.

HCMC PAPAYA RESTAURANT

PAN-VIETNAMESE 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 6258 1508 Chinghia.com Papaya is one of the city’s unsung gems. The cuisine here is presented simply but beautifully with an emphasis on top quality ingredients. Prices are cheap and portions are large.

QUAN BUI

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3602 2241 Make sure to try the sautéed shrimps with cashew nuts and crispy fried tofu with lime wedge, at this popular, high-quality eatery where all food is served in traditional crockery.

Quan Bui 2

TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE 17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515 With its leafy roof garden and chic interior, Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open kitchen.

TEMPLE CLUB

PAN-VIETNAMESE 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244 Templeclub.com.vn Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple Club is one of the city’s best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.

TIB

HUE / VIETNAMESE 187 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3829 7242 Tibrestaurant.com.vn Imperial Hue cuisine mixing dark brown Indochine décor and a more casual and jovial atmosphere than other eateries of its ilk. For the background and quality of cuisine, prices are very reasonable.

Bars & Restobars 2 LAM SON

pats and locals, who dance to Top 40 tunes on the club’s two floors and outdoor terrace. This is a pick-up joint in every sense of the word.

TOP-END INTERNATIONAL Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234 saigon.park.hyatt.com International décor blends seamlessly with local themes. Style joins forces with a wideranging drink menu and hip dance tunes to create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.

BANANA BAR

ACOUSTIC

RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB 95 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: 0909 028293 Blanchystash.com This popular downtown three-storied bar attracts late-night revelers thanks to its past midnight opening hours, regular DJ sets, and London-style bar décor. Has a great upstairs terrace.

LIVE MUSIC 6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 2239 Though only 1km from the city centre, Acoustic is well off most foreigners’ radars. Come see the Vietnamese house band play nightly, as well as performances from overseas bands and guest artists.

ALTO HELI BAR

TOP-END LOUNGE BAR Floor 52, Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8752. altosaigon.com The jazzy, lightbox-lit space by the helipad in the city’s highest building is more than just great views. Top-end cocktails, a great tapas menu and a chilled ambience make up the mix.

APOCALYPSE NOW

DANCE / NIGHTCLUB 2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6124 Apocalypsesaigon.com One of the oldest nightclubs in Saigon, Apo draws in a not-so-healthy mix of tourists, ex-

SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 3282 A downstairs pool table, an open, street side terrace and specials on Tiger draft, this fun but slightly run-down joint is a local haunt for many a resident of Saigon South.

BLANCHY’S TASH

BOOTLEG DJ CAFÉ

MINIMALIST CAFÉ BAR 9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907 609202 Bootlegsaigon.com Reminiscent of a New York or London underground watering hole, this is a great place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts, lunch by day and a variety of DJ sets by night.

BOUDOIR LOUNGE

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 Boudoir’s sun-drenched conservatory, plush salon, old-timey cigar room and upscale library will please any lounge enthusiast.

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HCMC Features breakfast, lunch and evening bouchées, as well as International DJ sets on weekend nights.

BREAD & BUTTER

INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT FOOD 40/24 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8452 With a free book exchange, and tasty Sunday night roasts, the tiny Bread & Butter is a perfect place for homesick expats and beer enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served here exclusively in Ho Chi Minh City).

Just across the lane from Mc’Sorley’s, this pub with an eccentric European tilt and some nice, authentic cuisine draws an older crowd with darts, pool and weekly poker tourneys.

CARMEN

LIVE MUSIC / BAR 8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 7699 Named after the famous opera, Carmen has built its reputation on offering a mix of nightly live Latin music, most notably flamenco. Its striking design is a treat for the eyes as well.

CHILL SKYBAR Live music all days of week

MUSIC BAR / CAFE 39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan st, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3154 metallicbar.com Facebook: Metallic Bar Saigon Starting 20:30 to 24:00 hrs Established in 2003, Metallic showcases a variety of different types of music — anything from rock, pop and rap to Latino — as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica, Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana and Guns ’n Roses. Covered live by The Tornado, NiBiRu and other well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands, this is a place to enjoy the musical atmosphere and rock to the beat every day of the week, with the live music starting at 8.30pm and running until midnight.

BROMA

COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP 41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 6838 Broma’s medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the city’s weirdest and coolest events/ random moments. A sophisticated cocktail menu and quite possibly the best lamb burger in town. Check out their bun bo Hue-inspired cocktail.

BUDDHA BAR

RESTOBAR 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3345 6345 Buddhabarsaigon.com

LOUNGE RESTOBAR & TERRACE Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372 chillsaigon.com Chill’s view has only been improved by the addition of a magnificent VIP terrace.

A substantial wine list and specialities from the owner’s native Denmark complement the primarily French-influenced cuisine.

CLOUD 9

LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE 6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: 0907 502951 The creators of Velvet present this trendy, doubletiered escape, complete with upstairs garden space, an extensive wine list, top shelf spirits and unobtrusive music.

CUNHOUSE

LOUNGE BAR Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0908 033982 This hip marriage of living room-of-working-architects and opium den is populated with vintage furniture, records and a thoughtful, intimate vibe. Its only streetside markings are a few Chinese lanterns.

GO2

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 187 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 9575 A slightly grungy corner joint banging out indie and pop tunes, Go2 draws in all walks of life at all hours. Whether you’re looking for affordable Thai / Vietnamese / western cuisine or late-night de-

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THE LIBRARY

bauchery, Go2 delivers.

GODMOTHER BAR

RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE / WESTERN 129 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3832 4589 godmothersaigon.com Only a couple blocks from the bru-haha of Bui Vien, Godmother’s is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent mojitos, good food, and the weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJ’s.

LA HABANA

HAPPYHOURSAIGON. COM

LA FENETRE SOLEIL

CUBAN / MUSIC BAR 6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5180 Lahabana-saigon.com Cuban-themed bar and restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and Cuban cuisine, as well as a few German favourites such as curry wurst and Weiner schnitzel.

Nightly live music and regular salsa classes.

happyhoursaigon.com Want to take advantage of the city’s discount drinking options? Looking for some Tiger Draft on the cheap or a two-hour freeflow to wet the juices? Check out this website for the what and wherefor-all of all the happy hours in Ho Chi Minh City.

FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR 44 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5994 A seductive watering whole in a great corner location thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese fusion cuisine, imported beer, classic cocktails, and entertaining music events / DJ sets.

HARD ROCK CAFE

LAST CALL

LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595 hardrockcafe.vn If you’re craving for American food, classic cocktails, rock n’ roll memorabilia, and live music, Hard rock delivers all three in large doses. Stages regular events including ladies’ nights and stand-up comedy.

HIDEAWAY

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 41/15 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0902 799962 With swings dangling playfully overhead, an expansive mural of Hanoi’s Old Quarter, multi-genre musical attractions, and famous western breakfasts and Mexican dishes, Hideaway awakens the senses and appeals to cosmopolitan sensibilities.

ICE BLUE

EXPAT BAR 54 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2644 Expats keep returning to this smoky dive bar, largely due to its amicable service, brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart games. A mainstay in the local darts league.

AFTERHOURS LOUNGE 59 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3122 Lastcallsaigon.com If you’re in need of dense, soulful atmosphere and maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from wherever, Last Call is your stop — and fast becoming that of the similarly inclined. Great happy hour deals for early evening starters.

LE PUB

INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 7679 Warm colors, artsy décor and a friendly ambiance combine to create a perfect setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese cuisine.

Check out their daily drink specials and Tuesday night pub quizzes.

LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 23rd floor, Sheraton Hotel & Towers, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 sheraton.com/saigon Some of the most awe-inspiring views of the city make this a choice venue for enjoying live performances from the international house band. Expect a bit of everything from jazz to R&B, with five-star prices to match.

HOTEL LOUNGE BAR Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, cnr. Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 The Library captures the romance of a bygone era, offering a sophisticated snack menu and a nostalgic afternoon tea from 2.30 pm to 5pm. A great place to hang out in five-star luxury.

LONG PHI

FRENCH / RESTOBAR 207 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 2704 French-run but universally appealing, Long Phi has been serving the backpacker area with excellent cuisine and occasional live music since 1990. Excellent late-night bistro cuisine.

MASK LOUNGE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 0938 939665 Set on the main road, despite its location this lounge bar has one the best outdoor terraces in town. Lit up at night by fairy lights and with a lightbox-style bar, this is a great hangout for a glass of wine or five.

MCSORLEY’S

IRISH BAR 4 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0126 9026006 Standing in the former home of Gaudi, McSorely’s is full of surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool, reggae parties, comedy nights, and sporting events projected onto the patio wall.

MZ CLUB

LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB 56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5258 m-zing.com Cover bands of the pop, jazz, rock, and Latin persuasion, flattering lighting, and ample choices of vintage wines make this crafty cocktail bar a destination for Saigon’s 30-plus Vietnamese / expat population.

O’BRIEN’S

IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3198 Irish-barsaigon.com This Irish-themed sports bar with classic pub décor is widely appreciated for its

excellent international fare, large whiskey selection and upstairs pool table. Great pizzas. And for a real treat, check out their zesty rolls.

OUTCAST

EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAFÉ BAR 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0122 4283198 Saigonoutcast.com Up-cycling and innovative design form the foundation for this bar / arts venue / mini- skate park. Come for barbeque and reasonably priced drinks, stick around for entertaining events and adorable puppies.

PACHARAN

SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC 97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6024 Pacharansaigon.com Legs of Iberian ham hang from the ceiling in the downstairs bar of this multi-storey homage to everything Spanish. Regular first-floor live music and excellent eats makes it a mainstay for the wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.

PEACHES

S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 0999 Known as the ‘Curry Pub’, this pleasant Saigon South watering hole mixes the beer with all things curry — anything from Goan fish curries to beef rendangs and more.

A popular local haunt.

PHATTY’S

AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS 46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 0796 phattysbar.com From its roots as the famed Café Latin, Phatty’s has become the go-to, Aussie beerguzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array of pub grub favourites.

ROCKFANCLUB BAR

ROCK BAR 25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08) 6290 7489 The promoters of Rockfanclub (the long-running Vietnamese hard rock and metal night formerly hosted at Tadao Coffee Bar) have found a home for fans to mosh in every night from

9pm. This is rock in its rawest, most grass roots Vietnamese form.

SAIGON SAIGON

HOTEL MUSIC BAR 9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999 caravellehotel.com Live Latin music in its various forms is this fan-cooled, Old Saigon-style bar’s main attraction. With the international bands performing nightly, Saigon Saigon also benefits from great views, polished service and a vibrant ambience.

SEVENTEEN SALOON

THEMED MUSIC BAR 103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 0007 seventeensaloon.com.vn Wild West-themed bar doubles as a music venue, where three talented Filipino bands (B&U, Wild West and Most Wanted) play covers of rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2 and Guns n’ Roses. Top shelf spirits and friendly, hostess style table service are the name game here.

SPOTTED COW

INTERNATIONAL / SPORT 111 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 7670 Alfrescosgroup.com Spotted Cow delivers the fun-loving atmosphere that its playfully decorated black and white spotted interior promises, as well as decent international comfort food, a range of happy hours, live sports, and darts.

STORM P

DANISH / INTERNATIONAL 5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738 Stormp,vn Named after a Danish cartoonist, this Saigon long-termer with its wall-length mural of Copenhagen attracts a variety of patrons and provides them with a well-stocked bar and extremely tasty Danish-influenced pub grub.

THE TAVERN

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, Q7 Tel: (08) 5410 3900 The first bar established in Saigon South, great food, great music and loads of laughs.

Has regular live music nights, theme nights and a variety of live sports events to please everybody. Big screens and outdoor seating add to the mix, with BBQs available for parties and events.

THI CAFÉ

LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE 224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08) 2210 2929 It’s a well-worn Saturday night path that starts at Thi Café, where Saigon’s better funk and rock cover bands can be danced to downstairs or listened to from the underutilized upstairs lounge. A Backpackers’ Area mainstay.

T&R TAVERN

DIVE BAR 57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 9839 T&R is a popular setting for late night fun and questionable decisions. The bar’s laptop allows patrons to choose their own soundtrack to a pool / darts game, dance-off, or…whatever else they’re doing.

UNIVERSAL BAR

LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR 90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633 343933 universalbarsaigon.com Just up from Bui Vien’s street beer nexus is Universal, a live music and sports-watching venue with an outdoor seating area that lets you take in the action from a more comfortable perspective.

VASCO’S

MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 2888 Vascosgroup.com A veteran fixture of Saigon’s nightlife scene, Vasco’s offers a softly lit downstairs patio, and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge area with regular live music.

Vesper Bar

INTERNATIONAL Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9698

Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement the drinks, the subtle lighting and lounge-style atmosphere makes this a great drinking and dining venue

VINO

WINE BAR / TAPAS The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 6299 1315 1 Ducong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059 vinovietnam.com This downtown wine shop’s terrace is a popular after work drinking spot, where one can select from 10 wines by the glass, a range of imported beer, and an excellent tapas menu.

Alternatively, buy from the great selection of wines in the shop and pay a small corkage.

XU

CAFÉ / LOUNGE BAR 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468 xusaigon.com This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a range of international and Vietnamese dishes to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.

Regular DJ nights.

red-velvet and cartoon-styled interior that makes Lush one of the city’s iconic clubs.

VELVET

DANCE/HIP HOP 26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262 velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com You will be hard-pressed to find another club as extravagantly furnished and über trendy in Saigon. Packed with socialites, celebrities, and fashionistas, Velvet’s the place to see and be seen in this city.

WINE BAR 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968 With a huge selection of self-imported wines from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.

WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827 wineembassy.com.vn A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu to complement the old and new world wines.

Quan Nhau

Nightclubs FUSE

ANH DUC’S

TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0919 206461 Fuse.vn Neon-lit Fuse is popular with the young, fashionable and affluent Vietnamese crowd.

A small space means this place gets packed quickly, so arrive early to enjoy bumping techno, whisky and fruit platters.

QUAN NHAU 18A/31/B22 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 This plastic-chair establishment is the effective living room of the room-renting expats in the alley surrounding, featuring cold beer, easy conversation and a friends-with-everyone proprietor.

LUSH

BIA HOI 33 Bui Vien, Q1 Beloved for its cheap, cold beer, prime people-watching, and elderly but tough-as-nails hostess, Bia Hoi or “Grandma’s” is a favourite of locals, expats, and backpackers alike.

PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM 2 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2496 Lush.vn Overseas DJ’s, Tuesday night ladies’ nights and cosmopolitan clientele converge in the

BIA TUOI 33

HCMC

CAFES

If there's any industry where Saigon excels, it's the industry that is all things coffee. Here is our list of some of the best places to drink coffee, tea and everything else non-alcoholic in this city.

CASBAH

Cafes AGNES CAFE

DALAT COFFEE & FLOWER SHOP 11A-B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9772 A cozy and comfortable cafe in Thao Dien serving fresh coffee from Dalat, smoothies, juices, pastries and desserts all day. Offer a western-fare breakfast menu with a traditional egg breakfast sandwich, homemade breakfast burritos and more from 7am-11am.

AN’S INTERIOR CAFÉ

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 40C Tran Cao Van, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 3398 Eat, drink, and buy furniture at this beautifully designed café located down alleyway 38. Doubling as an interior design showroom, customers are invited to lounge with their coffees and browse simultaneously.

AU PARC

EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN 23 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2772 Auparcsaigon.com Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean food complemented with good coffee and excellent desserts.

BOBBY BREWER’S

INTERNATIONAL 45 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3920 4090 86 Pham Ngoc Thach Tel: (08) 6299 1990 bobbybrewers.com Choose from a full range of café beverages and a fastfood style menu as you watch the latest Hollywood hits in their upstairs lounge.

Check website for movie locations and schedule.

CAFÉ ME

CASUAL CAFE 8A Luong Huu Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 2828 Cafeme.biz This picturesque coffeehouse is full of charm, providing a quiet location to relax or read from their ‘Borrow-A-Book Nook’. A perfect blend of coffee and creativity.

MIDDLE EASTERN 59 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 5130 This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to admire views of the city. With such a prime downtown location, expect prices to match.

CENTRO

ITALIAN 11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5946 Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu including panini and other typical fare.

CHICCO DICAFF CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFÉ BAR 213 Bui Vien, Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: 0902 514757 An up and coming hole-inthe-wall cafe, Chicco Dicaff serves an extensive menu of coffee, ice blended drinks, lattes and Italian sodas at affordable prices. Delivery available.

COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF

INTERNATIONAL Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3508 7285 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: (08) 3837 9347 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3833 3648 coffeebean.com.vn Large portioned coffee lures customers into the flagship store of this international café chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.

CREPERIE AND CAFÉ

FRENCH 5 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 9117 Known for it’s fantastic street-side seating opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury crepes, this hang out café will impress you with its location as much as its food.

DECIBEL

INTERNATIONAL 79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 6271 0115 Decibel.vn Trendy without pretense, this two-floor, relaxed café offers beautiful decor and

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116 | Word September 2013

unique original events like live music, film screenings, and art exhibits. Great prices and food with daily specials.

GAC HOA (ATTIC) CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 92/17 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3507 1418 A unique theme and decor secluded from the city bustle create a warm space that values both art appreciation and coffee love, with drinks starting at VND30,000.

GIVRAL CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 36 le loi , Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2747 80 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 3704 97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3844 3295 Saigongivral.com In typical French fashion with fresh pastries, groomed waiters, and elaborate portions of ice cream, Givral is located opposite Continental Hotel Saigon, offering prime city viewing but higher prices.

GLORIA JEAN’S

INTERNATIONAL 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn International coffee chain found throughout the city. It may not provide an authentic Vietnamese experience but it does offer comfortable seating and killer ice blended chillers to help beat the heat.

HIDEAWAY

INTERNATIONAL 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 4222 Hideawaycafe-saigon.com Hidden in a colonial building with an outdoor courwrd, the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to relax. The mouth-watering western menu is on the expensive side.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL 96b Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3512 7355 Highlandscoffee.com.vn The flagship store of this upscale, somewhat pricey, coffeehouse offers westernstyle and local-style brews, with other branches also found in prime locations around the tourist area.

Cappuccinos and a mediocre café experience costs above VND30,000. But the Wifi is good.

HIMIKO VISUAL CAFÉ

CAFE/ART GALLERY 324bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0908 113666 Renowned for its appreciation of art, Himiko is a hybrid of café and art gallery.

Regularly displaying the work of young artists, an atmosphere unlike many others flourishes here.

I.D. CAFÉ

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2910 Idcafe.net Centrally located near Ben Thanh Market, i.d offers casual café dining with a wide variety of food and beverages. Where modern design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.

KITA COFFEE

INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN 39-41 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6799 Kita’s colonial-era building and bistro-style decor will have you thinking you’ve been transported to the streets of Europe. Pair your experience with an espresso-based Italian coffee from their Mediterranean-based menu. Excellent sandwiches and salads.

L’AN MIEN DINING CAFE

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 2718 The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of this popular, contemporary café.

Enjoy live music on weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese or espresso-based coffee.

LE PETIT CAFÉ

FRENCH 112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2067 A small space is met with a warm, luxurious design in this romantic French-style café. Menus change daily but the friendly staff ensures customer satisfaction.

L’USINE

CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com French-style wooden decor compliments the spacious, whitewashed contemporary interior of L’Usine. A simple, creative menu combines

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with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and art gallery out back.

of ice cream, with desserts and drinks also on the menu.

Delivery is available.

OPERATION: TEAROOM

Bud’s

TEA ROOM 335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: 0169 3583563 operationteavietnam.com Traverse a wooden bridge over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000, in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware available for purchase.

THE PRINT ROOM

CONTEMPORARY CAFE 158 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4990 Second-storey coffeehouse offers a quiet atmosphere to chill out or read from their book-nook collection. Comfortable couch seating, open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.

STELLA CAFFE

ITALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 119 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 9220 This pleasant, mid-range venue, best known for its coffee, offers some of the best lattes and cappuccinos in town. Choose from indoor and outdoor spaces as well as upstairs dining.

TRUNG NGUYEN

INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE 80 Dong Khoi, Q1 trungnguyen.com.vn One of a growing number of downtown locations of the ever-expanding international homegrown brand, this pleasant two-storey café produces and serves their own coffee in distinct Vietnamese-styles in a comfortable, sophisticated atmosphere.

ZEST BISTRO & CAFÉ

INTERNATIONAL 5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 5599 This two-storey building with a mezzanine level boasts an industrial style complex with block walls, steel structures and huge glass windows. The mid-range menu offers over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

Ice-Cream Parlours Bach Dang

26-28 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2707 One of the oldest ice cream parlours in Saigon, this spot attracts locals and tourists thanks to their authentic Vietnamese ice cream. Their coconut ice cream is a must try.

Baskin Robbins

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131 baskinrobbins.vn With over 7,000 stores worldwide, Baskin Robbins now has a number in Ho Chi Minh City. Offers over a 100 choices

171 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3932 2778 budsicecream.com.vn An American-based ice cream company with over nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City, Bud’s has become a weekend hangout for the locals. Also offers a wide range of Western and Vietnamese food. Price starts at VND28,000 a scoop.

Fanny

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633 fanny.com.vn For many years, the Frenchrun Fanny has been a favourite of ice-cream lovers. With over 30 flavours to choose from, they also have great selection of sorbets and cakes. Hold an ice-cream buffet on the first Friday of the month.

Goody

133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339 This cosy and nicely decorated Italian ice-cream parlour has a full range of flavours.

Traditional Italian dishes are also on the menu.

Häagen-Dazs

11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 6683 5899 Nestled in a French-inspired location, Häagen-Dazs brings a new experience for café-goers with more than 60 flavours of ice cream and beverages.

Kem Nhan

4 Truong Han Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 6763 A popular street food place for the locals, offers a VND10,000 scoop of either longan or coffee ice cream.

Also serves deep-fried fish balls to order along with your ice cream.

MOF

30 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7898 mof.com.vn With their low fat gelatos and ice cream sourced from Japan, MOF strive to have the best quality Japanese desserts in town. They also specialise in fat-free sorbets, and have a great range of food and drinks on the menu.

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ARTS

HCMC

****

From our columns - For the Record, In the Frame and Decks ‘n Drums - to our listings, arts-wise this city’s going from strength to creative strength

Arts Classes THE TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHERS WORKSHOP

Tel: 0902 208812 pstuckings@gmail.com mark@driftphototours.com Peter Stuckings and Mark Stennett are professional travel photographers based in Ho Chi Minh City who offer workshops and tours to help

CINEMAS Showcasing the latest Hollywood blockbusters and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as Megastar Media, Lotte and Galaxy Cinema offer the most up-to-date and modern cinema-going experiences in Saigon.

For those partial to more esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and Idecaf carry little known Vietnamese and European efforts.

Cinebox

240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 2425 cinebox.vn

Lotte Cinema

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 38227897 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7 Tel: (08) 3775 2521 lottecinemavn.com

Galaxy Cinema

230 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 6688 116 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 5235 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3849 4567 galaxycine.vn

IDECAF

31 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5451 idecaf.gov.vn

Megastar Cinema

Level 5, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5412 2222 Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 6297 1981 Level 5, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5416 0088 megastar.vn

you improve your photography skills.

THE SAIGON WRITERS GROUP

Tel: 01642 078110 john_helden@hotmail.com A creative group inviting new members every second Tuesday for feedback on work in progress and creative writing exercises to inspire. All levels are welcome from beginners to the more experienced.

VIN SPACE

6 Le Van Mien, Q2 Tel: 0907729846 Vin-space.com Vin’s Space is an intimate, light-filled space that offers artists a quiet space to work individually or share ideas.

Weekly classes include oil painting, drawing and arts and crafts classes for all ages.

Books & Magazines ARTBOOK

43 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3502 1559 158ED Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9745 1B1 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 3518 artbook.com.vn Frequent overseas imports of the latest magazines and books makes Artbook a rarity in this city. The stock covers art and architecture through to graphic design, fashion, cooking, interior design and landscaping.

FAHASA

469 Nguyen Huu Tho, Tan Hung Tel: (08) 3775 2987 fahasasg.com.vn Although there are many branches of Fahasa dotted throughout the city, this is one of the largest, with three floors of books and related products in English, French, Chinese and Vietnamese.

PHUONG NAM CORP (PNC)

2A Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9650 2nd Floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7131 pnc.com.vn Now with over 30 bookstores in Ho Chi Minh City, PNC is probably the leading book retailer in Vietnam. Stocks the full range of Vietnamese fiction and non-fiction books as well as over 2,000 English language titles.

SAHABOOK

175/24 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1 Tel: (08) 6674 2671 sahabook.com

The authorised distributor of Lonely Planet in Vietnam, they also stock non-copied works of fiction in English (both new and second hand) as well as postcards, maps, stamp books, coin collections and travel fiction.

Galleries BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART GALLERY

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 3695 bluespacearts.com Built in the 1920s by a wellknown local businessman, the rambling colonial building that houses the Blue Space Arts Center is an attraction in itself. Inside, Tran Thi Nguyen Nga curates a collection featuring artists from throughout Southeast Asia.

CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1 Tel: 0903 888431 cthomasgallery.com Located in a quiet corner of District 1, Craig Thomas Gallery offers a compelling mix of up-and-coming and established local artists. In operation since 2009, its founder has been promoting Vietnamese art for a decade.

HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS MUSEUM

97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4441 Baotangmythuattphcm.vn Housed in a colonial-era building that also boasts what is possibly the first elevator ever built in Saigon, the exhibition space here covers three levels. There’s also a warren of galleries in the basement.

PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3166 phuongmaigallery.com Established in 2004, these two galleries feature works by the likes of La Hon, Ton That Bang and Le Xuan Chieu. An eclectic range of styles is exhibited, including abstracts, landscapes and impressionism.

INTERNATIONAL CHOIR & ORCHESTRA OF HO CHI MINH CITY

SAN ART

3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3840 0183 San-art.org San Art is an independent, artist-run exhibition space that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an exchange programme that invites international artists/ curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.

43 tu xuong, Q3 Tel: 0909 930 907 amauryleblan@hcm.vnn.vn hcmcchoir.com This 40–voice choir and 21-piece orchestra holds both private and public performances, with rehearsals held every Monday from 7.30pm to 9pm at the British International School at 43 Tu Xuong St, Q3.

SAIGON PLAYERS

Performing Arts HO CHI MINH CITY BALLET SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA AND OPERA

The City Opera House, 7 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 7419 hbso.org.vn Ho Chi Minh City’s opera and ballet perform programmes of classical dance and music throughout the year. Depending on the show, tickets start at just VND60,000 for the sky seats, with circle seats priced at VND150,000.

HO CHI MINH CITY CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC

112 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 5841 Hcmcons.vn This colonial–era theatre holds classic piano recitals and orchestral performances, and is closely connected to performance groups in the city. There are two concert rooms with two performances weekly.

saigonplayers@gmail.com saigonplayers.com Composed of local and foreign thespians, Saigon Players hosts monthly drama activities that include club nights every first Wednesday of the month and script nights every third Wednesday.

Production Houses CREA TV

339 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3823 7434 crea-tv.com Established in 1995, Crea TV produces television programmes and commercials, corporate films, documentaries, and feature films.

Services include location scouting, casting, authorisation and permits, art department work, production and direction.

DUC MINH GALLERY

31C Le Qui Don, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 0498 ducminh-art@hcm.vnn.vn Housing over 1,000 works of traditional and contemporary art, this mock-colonial mansion constitutes the private art gallery of Vietnamese business tycoon Bui Quoc Chi. Prices start at VND2 million per painting and rise to the astronomic.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 galeriequynh.com In addition to working with artists based in Vietnam, Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports education through talks, lectures and publications.

HIMIKO VISUAL SALOON

324 Bis Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: 0958 881908 (Ms. Hoang) Himiko.nguyen@gmail.com A visit to Himiko’s Visual Saloon is never anything less than a feast for the eyes.

Open for five years, this cafecum-gallery has a reputation for showcasing the work of Saigon’s bright young creative things including Himiko herself.

www.17saloon.vn September 2013 Word | 117

LEISURE HCMC

Time to release all that pent up energy - it’s not all work and propping up the bar, you know. Here are some ideas for better ways to spend that free time

Cooking Amusement DAI NAM THEME PARK

Binh Duong Highway, Phuong Hiep An, Thu Dau Mot, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 389 6389 laccanhdainamvanhien.vn This huge amusement park is Vietnam’s answer to Disneyland. A bus ride from Ho Chi Minh City gives you access to some amazing rides, a water-park and one of the better zoos in Vietnam. Located 45km away on Highway 13, just after Thu Dau Mot.

LASER TAG

5th floor, Alta Plaza, 91B2 Pham Van Hai, Tan Binh Take the glass elevator to the top floor of Alta Plaza and you’ll soon find yourself in a dark playground holding a laser gun, ready for 15 minutes of sci-fi style fun.

SAIGON ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS

2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 1425 saigonzoo.net Dating from 1875, Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens has a vast collection of rare orchids and ornamental plants, and a collection of over one hundred species of animals.

Clubs & Societies INTERNATIONAL LADIES IN VIETNAM

ilvietnam.com This long–established social organization offers ladies a chance to socialise at their weekly coffee mornings (Thursdays at 10am) and participate in many cultural, social and sporting activities. Please see website for details.

PARKLANDS COUNTRY CLUB

628A An Binh, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9000 Parklandvn.com The Parkland Country Club offers a wide range of activities on its extensive facilities including supervised children’s areas, a multiuse sports field, tennis courts, squash courts, pools, spa and a gym.

OVERLAND CLUB

35 bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 9734 overlandclub.jp Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm The Overland Club organises pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes, cultural art events and monthly special activities, such as the Soba Festival, pottery painting classes, the art of decorating paper and multinational cuisine days.

SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY HOA TUC

74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8485 saigoncookingclass.com Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking Vietnamese chef, includes a trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.

VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 0349 vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com Located in a pretty colonialstyle villa, the Vietnam Cookery Centre offers a hands-on guide to local gastronomy for persons of any ability. An introduction to traditional Vietnamese kitchen utensils is an added bonus.

Dancing DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, tap, sing & dance, break, acro and more in this modern, newly built studio.

SAIGON BELLY DANCE

No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 Tel: (08) 3832 9429 saigonbellydance.com To learn how to move your hips like Shakira, head over to this studio for courses in belly dancing and “sexy dancing”. Scheduling information is available online.

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118 | Word September 2013

Fitness AIS SPORTS CENTRE

Cherry Blossom 1 & Lotus Road 1 and 3, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien , Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6960 aissportscentre.com With a pool, astroturf play area, basketball court and outdoor gym equipment, AIS Sports Centre is a great venue to stay fit. Packages available for family members of students, couples and others.

AMARYSKA KAMIONKO

Tel: 0902 271830 personalfitnessathome. blogspot.com A private fitness trainer assisting with strength training, weight loss and allover body toning to obtain positive lifestyle habits and stronger bodies for females.

Sessions take place at clients’ homes and generally last one hour. Group workouts or one on one. Email akamionko@hotmail.com for details.

AQUAFIT

65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao Chi Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. 0909 008985 aquafit.vn Aquabiking classes help you strengthen and sculpt your body fast while keeping it safe for your joints and refreshing, thanks to the benefits of water. Suitable for all condition levels.

BODY EXPERT SYSTEMS

bodyexpertsystems.com Do you have limited time?

Not seeing results? BES’s online software and memberships offer affordable and powerful tools to achieve fantastic fat loss, fitness improvement and overall wellbeing ­— anywhere.

CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE

Queen Ann Building, 28–30– 32 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 5999 Hung Vuong Plaza, 126 Hung Vuong, Q5 Tel: (08) 2222 0299 05 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4 Tel: (08) 3826 0999 20 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3948 3999 Cfyc.com.vn One of the leading fitness

and yoga centres in Vietnam featuring modern equipment with over 100 aerobic and yoga classes like Hot Yoga, Indian Dance, Pole dance, Zumba, Body Balance and Body Combat.

CARAVELLE CLUB SPA

19-23 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4999 Caravellehotel.com This well–equipped gym has rows of cardiovascular machines and free weights, a massage parlour, sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi, with a pleasant swimming pool.

C Y RI L A ND YO U SPORTS CENTER

49A Xa Lo Ha noi, Q2 Tel: 0947 771326 cyril-and-you.com This sports centre in An Phu, started by fitness guru Cyril Terrones, features the same personalised mentorship Cyril’s clients love. Includes Zumba, salsa, boxing and fitness for kids and adults every day. No membership fees. Pay for classes in installments of 10.

DI A M O ND CLUB

H E A LT H

13th Floor, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7750 A well–equipped gym with steam room, Jacuzzi, massage parlour and swimming pool can be found above this leading department store.

K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0909 540030 K1 offers martial arts, boxing, kick and Thai boxing, Krav–maga, grappling, MMA, kid’s martial art classes and private fitness and conditioning. Open to everyone from kids to adults, beginners to professionals.

LA COCHINCHINE

Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1812 lacochinchine.net A colonial–themed gym in a large, open–plan space, situated on top of the Rex Hotel. Includes a tennis court,

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swimming pool, Jacuzzi, cardio and resistance machines, sauna and steam rooms.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE FITNESS CENTRE

spacious changing rooms with adjustable shower settings, Jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna. Also has an excellent guitar–shaped outdoor pool.

64A Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 5181 lapothiquaire.com Classes in Ashtanga, Iyengar, Hatha and Vinyasa yoga, Power yoga, Pilates, Tae Bo, Centergy, aqua–aerobics and body sculpting are offered by internationally certified teachers. There’s also a swimming pool, sauna, and steam room.

SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE

Panorma Fitness

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0253 Steve Chipman, who had a hand in establishing gyms at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness — one of Vietnam’s largest and bestequipped gyms.

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7 Tel: 01654 058401 / 01629 546534 cezsaigon@gmail.com Classes in cross-training, an interval-based circuit training programme focused on functional movement. An intensive full body workout that increases strength, speeds up metabolism and burns fat, classes are conducted by professional instructors and personal trainers. All fitness levels welcome.

NUTRIFORT

2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8560 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3744 6672 Nutrifort.com Offers fitness classes and personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes include power yoga, pilates, circuit training, martial arts and spinning. There is also a spa and a restaurant serving calorie–calibrated meals.

RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH CLUB

8–15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0033 Exercise with an unsurpassed city view at this health club with gym, swimming pool, steam room and massage parlour. There’s also a good place to take time out, by the poolside bar.

SAIGON FITNESS CO.

New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8888 Saigon.newworldhotels.com Medium–sized gym with new cardio equipment and

17 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1555 At this small but well– equipped gym the equipment is modern and staff members are extremely helpful. Yoga classes are just one of a number of fitness classes offered.

STAR FITNESS GYM

THE CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My Hung Tel: (08) 5412 1277 The-crescent.com Overlooking the Crescent complex’s lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash courts, pool, steam bath and nutrition bar.

THE LANDMARK CLUB

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext. 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com In addition to the squash court, facilities include a fully–equipped gym room, a rooftop swimming pool and separate male and female saunas.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9009 saigonriverclub.com This gym is equipped with advanced equipment, cardiovascular, strength and free weight sections, sauna and steam rooms, plus studios offering Spinning, Pilates,

HCMC Yoga, Zumba, Aerobics, and Belly Dancing. Includes a large outdoor pool with jacuzzi.

welcomes football enthusiasts looking for competition or conviviality both on and off the pitch.

OLYMPIQUE SAIGON

Cricket SAIGON LEAGUE

C RI C KE T

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 The Saigon Cricket League includes teams from five nations — Australia, England, India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka — plus a mixed–nationality team called United Cricket Club. New recruits are welcome.

VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA) Manish Sogani Tel: 0908 200 598 manish@ambrij.com

COUNTRY TEAMS ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Richard Carrington Tel: 0909 967 353 richard.carrington@marketedge.asia eccsaigon.com

ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF SAIGON) Deeptesh Gill Tel: 01228 770 038 deepteshgill@gmail.com

ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN SAIGON) Munish Gupta Tel: 0986 973 244 gmunish29@yahoo.co.in

PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON CRICKET CLUB) Samie Cashmiri Tel: 0976 469 090 samie.cashmiri@gmail.com

SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA CRICKET CLUB) Steve Treasure Tel: 0903 998 824 sacccricket@gmail.com

SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB) Suhard Amit Tel: 0988 571 010 suhard.amit@yahoo.com

UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB) Asif Ali Tel: 0937 079 034 npasifali@hotmail.com

Football and Rugby AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL

Tel: 0937 683 230 saigonauskick@gmail.com vietnamswans.com The Vietnam Swans play international footy matches around Asia. Social functions aplenty for everyone.

Regardless of age or ability, all are invited to become an active part of the club.

LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com This originally French team

Contact Fred on 0919 709 024 or Viet Luu 0909 500 171. astere@hotmail.fr This predominantly French side has been playing for over 10 years, winning the championship title for the last four years.

SAIGON RAIDERS

Saigonraiders.com This team is part of the Saigon International Football League, with regular games against local teams. A sociable football team always on the hunt for enthusiastic new talent.

SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7 saigonrugbyfootballclub@ yahoo.com The Saigon Geckos play social touch rugby and also welcome men and women to join and enjoy drinks afterwards. There are regular tours of the region, as well as games with visiting teams. Beginners welcome.

SAIGON SAINTS

saigonsaints.com Players train weekly and tour across the region to play in local and international tournaments. New players are actively encouraged to join this SIFL expat football club, running since 1995.

Golf SAIGON SOUTH GOLF

Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phu, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 2001 Visitors’ fees are around VND500,000 for a round of golf at this mini nine–hole course. 40 percent discount on Wednesdays. On the driving range, 50 balls cost under VND60,000. Equipment hire available.

SONG BE GOLF RESORT

77 Binh Duong, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 3756 660 songbegolf.com This resort incorporates tennis courts, a swimming pool and a gymnasium at its 18–hole, 6,384–metre course just 22km from the city.

VIETNAM GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Long Thanh My Village, Q9 Tel: (08) 6280 0101 vietnamgolfcc.com This facility just off Highway 1 has two courses. Both 18– hole courses are complemented by other attractions such as tennis, boating and an on–site eatery.

Miscellaneous HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

saigonhash.com Balancing beer and exer-

cise, this long–established running club goes to various out–of–town locations to tear up a few kilometres and burn some of the weekend’s calories. Walking trails offered. Depart from the Caravelle Hotel on Sundays at 2pm.

RAINBOW DIVERS

Buddha Bar, 7 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0913 408146 divevietnam.com Diving courses and trips offered by the longest established PADI dive centres throughout Vietnam. All courses can be started at their state–of–the–art centre in An Phu.

RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp A baseball team with over 25 international members.

Practices and games are held on the weekends at RMIT and the Taiwanese Junior High School in District 7.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS LEAGUE

thesidl.com There are some excellent players in this fun and popular international darts league, which runs a highly competitive competition for a growing number of pub– based teams.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info The Saigon International Softball League invites you to play slo-pitch softball.

Teams with players from all over the world compete every Sunday.

SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL CLUB

36 Thao Dien, Q2 saigonshootersnetball. blogspot.com saigonshootersnetball@ gmail.com A friendly mixed netball league, running on Monday nights, is open to both men and women from the ages of eight and up (including an adult competition).

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com Offers coaching for football, tennis, basketball and swimming for both children and adults. Private lessons are also available throughout the year.

SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2098 ext 176 thelandmarkvietnam.com Membership is open to non–Landmark residents for use of the courts. Private instruction is available

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{ Body and Temple } Bad Science: the industry of food

By Phil Kelly

H

ow come there is so much controversy on the subject of nutrition? A labyrinth of conflicting advice has been constructed around the topic with disagreement on many topics from animal based diets vs. plant based, low fat vs. high fat, low carb vs. high carb, unsaturated fat vs. saturated fat, organic vs. conventional, and so on.

Through my university degree and the early subsequent continued-education nutrition courses, I was schooled to believe that active people needed to consume high grain diets and that refined grain (generally from wheat) should be the staple of a healthy human diet. I learned the food pyramid, that fat loss was all about calories in vs. calories out, that saturated fat and cholesterol would kill us, that red meat was bad for us and vegetable oils were healthy… in other words I learnt what the food industry wanted me to learn. How is this possible? For courses to become nationally and internationally recognised they have to align with Government policy. This is not a good thing as the food industry lobbyists often dictate government policy.

Bad Science The food industry is a multi-multi-billiondollar industry and often a large amount of a country’s economy relies heavily on its production. The world of nutrition has some of the worst research. In nutrition we are at a point where politics and money

120 | Word September 2013

has more influence than science does on research outcomes. A lot of scientists in the nutrition realm are not interested in finding the ‘right’ answer but just interested in being ‘right’ — looking for and representing data to support their hypotheses or idea.

Saturated fat is one of the biggest victims of bad science. In the 1950s Ancel Keys, a biochemist, published a study that compared heart disease and fat consumption in half a dozen countries — the more fat consumed the more heart disease. The trend line of Ancel’s graphs were unmistakable… there was just one small problem.

Keys left out countries that eat a lot of fat but had very little heart disease — Holland and Norway. He also left out countries where people don’t eat much fat but do have high rates of heart disease — Chile.

In fact the researcher had a lot of reliable data from 22 countries and the results where all over the place. So how did Mr. Keys make such an outstanding scientific finding? He just threw out the data that didn’t match his hypotheses and published his results. Unfortunately, this data helped the grain and vegetable oil industries… huge multibillion-dollar companies who latched onto these findings and used them to boost the use and consumption of their products.

Vested Interests The food industry also provides grants and funding to educational institutes,

effectively paying for the course. Do you think the grain industry would allow nutritional courses to teach that grains (wheat, bread, corn, cereal, pasta, etc.) drive excess insulin production, fat storage and heart disease? That grains are allergenic, immune suppressing and nutritionally inferior to plants and animals. Whole grains possibly worse due to their offensive proinflammatory, immune and digestive system disturbing agents. This would probably result in a loss in profit margin were people to pay attention to this information.

In fact Jared Diamond, the UCLA evolutionary biologist, alludes to the point that the change from saturated fat to processed grains is the “worst mistake in the history of the human race”. I always find it interesting that once we made the switch from saturated fats to processed grains and vegetable oils, obesity and chronic disease rates soared.

Despite its limitations, I value my university education and the early continued-education courses, as they provided me with an analytical mind and taught me to question everything. This helps me understand complex information and conflicting claims so I can make informed conclusions. I implore you all to ask questions and never take a “scientific” study as the only truth.

Phil is founder and master trainer at Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934 782 763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.com or through Star Fitness (starfitnesssaigon.com).

HCMC for new players or those without a partner. Racquet rental with balls inclusive.

Book in advance.

TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: 0938 889899 James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn Founded in Singapore, they train every Saturday morning from 10am to midday.

Everyone is welcome. For more information about games and the club in Vietnam contact James or Rina.

ULTIMATE FRISBEE

RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Saigon-ultimate.com Pan–Asian competitions are often organised for the more experienced and everyone can join in this exciting modern sport held every Sunday afternoon in Saigon South from 4pm to 5.30pm.

X–ROCK CLIMBING

7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Tennis KY HOA II

796 Su Van Hanh, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3706 Hourly hire for courts starts from VND80,000. Private coaching is available, and a small shop stocks all the equipment. Also has an excellent gym and swimming pool.

LAN ANH COURT

TENNIS

291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3862 7144 Private coaching sessions and group lessons are available at this popular club.

You can rent one of several courts from VND40,000 per hour. There is also equipment for hire.

Vietnamese Lessons PRIVATE VIETNAMESE CLASSES

Tel: 0908 604 753 Contact outgoing and experienced instructor Mr Hoang, who takes individuals or groups from beginner level up to fluency. VND220,000 per hour.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Tel: 0916 670 771

vietnameselanguagegarden. com A Vietnamese language school specialising in personalized, one-on-one instruction at a comfortable and centrally located facility, in your home, office, or over Skype.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 0168 90 Le Van Thiem, Q7 Tel: (08) 3910 5673 This professional school has built a good reputation over 12 years. Offers set and tailor–made courses for all abilities in both northern and southern Vietnamese within high quality facilities.

Yoga & Meditation ANUPA YOGA

9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net/yoga-anupa AT anupa’s private studio, we offer classes to individuals or small groups. The primary focus is to support students who want to regularly practise traditional yoga. For information contact us via email support@ anupa.net or phone.

DR. SHIVA

shivaprakashyoga@yahoo. com

A qualified yoga master from India who has been teaching in Ho Chi Minh City in different locations including L’Apothiquaire and Nutrifort. Yoga styles include Asthanga, Hatha, Dynamic, Vital and Power yoga.

MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA

107/39 Truong Dinh, Q3 Tel: 0909 648193 michellelloyd.com E-RYT200-certified yoga instructor offering Vinyasa yoga classes at various locations around the city.

Private and corporate yoga programmes available.

THE SAIGON RIVER CLUB

Ruby Towers — Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9009 Saigonriverclub.com Saigon Pearl’s luxury, stateof-the-art health club provides a number of Yoga classes held throughout the week with experienced practitioners at varied times in a specifically designed softfloored studio.

SAIGON YOGA

Tel: 0908 352265 saigonyoga.com Founder Suzanne Vian, has two decades of experience and is a Yoga Alliance

‘Experienced Instructor’.

Iyengar-influenced classes, specialising in Hatha, Flow, Hot, Pre and Post-natal Yoga, Restorative, Injury Rehabilitation, Retreats and Trainings.

SHRI YOGA STUDIO

54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3848 5347 shriyogavietnam.com modern yoga studio focusing on Ashtanga Yoga and suitable for all levels. Prenatal and postnatal classes also available. Classes are bilingual with internationally certified instructors in cooperation with Tirisulayoga Singapore.

STAR FITNESS GYM

1st Floor The Manor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0253 starfitnessvn.com Yoga professionals teach regular yoga classes in three disciplines at this gym. Members get free access. Contact Star Fitness directly for schedules and non–member prices.

SOHAM YOGA STUDIO AND BOUTIQUE

84T/4 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 5813 soham.vn Soham Yoga Studio and Boutique specialises in highquality yoga training, offer-

ing Vinyasa Flow, Sivananda, Power yoga and more with Yoga Alliance-certified yoga instructors. Soham’s yoga shop also sells high quality yoga products.

VAJRAYANA BUDDHISM MEDITATION GROUP

saigon-gompa.org Meditation group specializing in the methods of Tibetan Buddhism. Help the practitioners understand and experience the nature of their mind and the nature of all phenomena.

YOGA & BODYWORK WITH DAPHNE

Tel: 01266 626 467 daphnechua.com Daphne offers yoga classes, Reiki and Thai Yoga Massage across the city. Each session is unique and different to provide the perfect balance in nurturing the body and mind.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

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September 2013 Word | 121

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WELLNESS From alternative medicine through to have that long sought-after nose-job and that once-a-year medical check, here are some the wellness options available in town

Alternative Medicine AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC

161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3939 3930 vietnamchiropractic.com A clinic provides world class Chiropractic, Physiotherapy and Foot Care. We specialize in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee pain, sports injuries, and all types of foot problems. We also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome in children.

CHANTEL GORTON, PT, DPT

Family Medical Practice Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice.com saigonpt.com American-educated and licensed physical therapist with a Doctorate of Physical Therapy (DPT) degree in Vietnam. Specialising in orthopedic injuries, joint pain, sports injuries and post-operative rehabilitation.

GREGORY BEALE

34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2 Tel: 01268 654 202 gregbealetherapyfitness.com American-trained and nationally certified massage therapist and National Academy of Sports Medicine certified personal trainer offering orthopedic manual therapy, corrective exercise and orthopedic massage, focusing on pain management well as injury rehab/prevention.

HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER

432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 Tel: 0906 684 969

Dr Kim Sung Soo offers a range of alternative oriental treatments, including acupuncture, cupping, moxibustion, physical therapy, plus treatment for fertility, chronic pain (headache, backache, arthritis, muscular), obesity, allergies and menopausal disorders.

INSTITUTE OF TRADITIONAL MEDICINE

273–275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Q3 Tel: (08) 3997 1146 Apart from standard treatments such as acupuncture and massage, this hospital and training centre places emphasis on physiotherapy — the use of herbs to stimulate and protect the immune system.

TRADITIONAL MEDICINE HOSPITAL 187 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 6579 One of the city’s leading centres of traditional Chinese medicine infused with modern understanding.

Up–to–date and clean with friendly staff, but you will need a translator.

Cosmetic Surgery AMERICAN EYE CENTER VIETNAM

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My Hung, providing eye care services to Adults and Children by an American Board-certified ophthalmologist with

17 years of experience. The American-standard facility is equipped with state of the art equipments for the early detection and treatment of important eye diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic eye disease treatments. Cosmetic procedures such as eyelid surgery and Botox injections are also available.

FV HOSPITAL COSMETIC SURGERY

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3333 fvhospital.com This modern international– standard hospital has a full cosmetic surgery department offering body contouring, breast augmentation, Botox, a range of facial surgery options, laser skin improvement, with expert French and Vietnamese doctors.

FV SAIGON CLINIC AESTHETIC CARE

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com Conveniently located downtown clinic providing modern, safe and fast treatments including Botox and restylane, by an experienced American doctor. Also provides cosmetic surgery consultations with French and Vietnamese doctors.

SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 6999 sianclinic.com The Australian and Canadian

s

Commitment, Integrity, Quality

122 | Word September 2013

managed SIAN Clinic offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and facial care team. The clinic utilises the latest therapies.

STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Skin Centre offers a broad range of medical and aesthetic skin treatments.

Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure accurate diagnosis and safe treatment procedures. It houses excellent equipment for a variety of procedures.

Counselling WE LINK

64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 2900 contact@welink.vn Psychological counselling services for individual, group and family. Diverse counsellors and therapists, using Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French and Spanish spoken.

Dental ACCADENT

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8800 accadent.com Accadent Vietnam is supported by Accadent Germany and

offers high quality standards, high–tech materials and equipment, German precision and hygiene standards for your teeth.

FV HOSPITAL DENTAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3431 fvhospital.com Full–service dental clinic at this international–class hospital covers the entire spectrum from examinations and cleaning to braces and implants, all carried out to the highest standards.

WESTCOAST INT’L DENTAL CLINIC

Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6999 The Practice, Level 1, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 6777 westcoastinternational.com An international dental clinic equipped with the latest technology, the comfortable clinics offer cosmetic and implant dentistry with a focus on making each patient’s experience anxiety and pain free.

INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Globally renowned provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers full dental services in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide high skilled dental service.

Orthodontics is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Long–established, modern clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese dentists. A favourite of the foreign residential community due to its modern and effective treatments allied with extremely reasonable prices.

SMILE DENTAL

173 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phong Ward, Q7 Tel: 5413 6634 www.smiledental-vn.com 9am to 12pm, 2pm to 6.30pm (Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat); 2pm to 6.30pm (Thurs); 9am to 12pm (Sun); Closed Wednesdays A contemporary Japanese dental clinic that provides a full range of standard and specialised dental services and treatments, including 60-minute teeth whitening..., Smile Dental Clinic opens Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat: 9AM-12PM, 2PM6:30PM. Thu: 2PM-6:30PM. Sun: 9AM-12PM, closes on Weds__ and PUBLIC-HOLIDAYS. English - Vietnamese and Japanese are also available to call

HCMC

Try and you will see the outstanding benefits of this new facial care.

Contact Us for an Appointment.

September 2013 Word | 123

HCMC From alternative medicine through to have that long sought-after nose-job and that once-a-year medical check, here are some the wellness options available in town

Hairdressers ANTHONY GEORGE FOR LONDON HAIR & BEAUTY

Fideco Riverview Building, 14 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6475 anthony@aglondonsalon. com.vn Top British stylist “George” brings his unique flair to hair in District 2. A modern and professional salon, the products used here are exclusively Dermalogica, Schwarzkopf and L’Oreal.

ART HAIR

37B Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 0913 47 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1101 Arthair.com.vn A four–floor, one–stop hair salon for people who like highlights and a sharp–looking mane. Even the stylists here sport modern, funky styles. A cut above the rest.

CONCEPT COIFFURE

48 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4625 Conceptcoiffure.vn Open daily from 9am to 8pm Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship salon Venus Coiffure to a villa in Thao Dien. A full range of services is offered including a dedicated kids salon.

JASMINE

45 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2737 Jasminespa.vn Spa–related salon with a good reputation for quality and comfort offers washes and leisurely haircuts from VND330,000 plus a range of related services.

VENUS

41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 6298 This salon can make you look naturally blond or help you to revamp your hairstyle. Using international brands like L’Oreal and Wella, your hair will be given that healthy, bouncier new look.

YKC HAIR STUDIO

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Run by Canadian hair stylist Ky The Guy, YKC Hair Studio attracts a loyal expat clientele thanks to the well-trained staff and friendly Englishspeaking environment. Top industry products such as Tigi and Goldwell are used.

Medical AUSTRALIAN CLINIC & PATHOLOGY DIAGNOSTICS

273–275 Ly Thai To, Q10 Tel: (08) 3834 9941 Services includes general out-

patient healthcare, corporate / visa health–checks, X–ray, full laboratory and in–house pharmacy including specialist medical services covering cardiology, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, orthopedics and dermatology.

tre located in District 1. Experienced American, French, and Vietnamese doctors provide the full spectrum health care. Plus sports medicine, cosmetic treatments, skin care and surgical consultations.

CARE 1

HUMAN MEDICINE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

Manor Apartments, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0757 care1.com.vn Sister clinic of the Family Medical Practice, Care 1 opened in 2007 and offers preventative healthcare checkups as well as a full range of corporate health services for international companies in Vietnam.

CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and traditional medicine.

COLUMBIA ASIA SAIGON CLINIC

8 Alexandre de Rhodes, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8888 Columbiaasia.com Well–established and well– regarded, offers emergency and primary medical care with international and Vietnamese doctors on call 24 hours a day. Prices are very reasonable.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 7848 95 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2000 vietnammedicalpractice.com Full–service 24–hour healthcare provider with highly– qualified doctors handling everything from emergencies to tests and X–rays, in–patient and out–patient care, check– ups, travel medicine and medical evacuations.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3333 Emergency: (08) 5411 3500 fvhospital.com International hospital whose standard of health care matches that found anywhere, with 19 full–time French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing expertise in 30 medical and surgical areas, especially maternity care.

FV SAIGON CLINIC

45 Vo Thi Sau, 2nd Floor, Citilight Tower, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 6167 saigonclinic@fvhospital.com State–of–the–art medical cen-

124 | Word September 2013

601B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3977 8130 humanmedicineclinic.com Mottoed “Building Stem Cell bridges for everyone”, HMIC comprises a medical clinic and associated pathology laboratory with Applied Research Center of Regenerate medicine.

INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CENTRE (CMI) 1 Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2366 cmi-vietnam.com This French medical clinic provides general practice and a range of specialties including cardiology, OB–GYN, ophthalmology, paediatrics, and sports medicine.

INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC MEDICAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com The world’s leading provider of medical assistance and international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7 emergency care. Specialist care is available in many fields.

STAMFORD MEDICAL CLINIC 254 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3932 1090 stamfordskin.com Stamford Medical Clinic offers services in internal medicine, dermatology, aesthetic medicine, infectious diseases, and general medicine.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3910 4545 79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 4545 Well-regarded clinic offering general examinations and specialising in pediatrics, digestive diseases, cardiology, women’s health and internal medicine. Offers a membership programme and cooperates with most insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.

Salons FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1 Tel: 0909 682 827 famenails.com A nail spa in Saigon with a modern ambiance. Services range from classic manicures

and spa treatment to acrylic and gel enhancements.

JUST MEN

40 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 1407 Grooming salon for men which, as well as its standard hairdressing services, offers massages for the tired executive. A good place to escape the hustle and bustle of Saigon.

L’APOTHIQUAIRE

64A Truong Dinh, Q3 100 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 3932 5181 lapothiquaire.com Award–winning salon very highly rated by foreign visitors offers body massages, facials, sports fatigue massages, slimming wraps and waxing. Also offers gentleman’s care.

ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Specialising in all forms of skincare, this is well–designed, ambient and outfitted day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and foot treatments.

Spa AQUA DAY SPA

one suite with a Jacuzzi bath; offers hand and foot care and a hair styling area.

and beautifully decorated.

Treatments focus on relaxation therapies.

INDOCHINE SPA

THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL CLUB

69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7188 Indochine-spa.com.vn Indochine Spa provides a peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic scents and lulling melodies. Customers are pampered by qualified therapists using natural French products in a clean and pleasant environment.

MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 0563 10am to 10pm (last booking 9.30pm) Mekong Bliss Spa is a top place to enjoy authentic Vietnamese spa treatments. As well as offering an impressive array of services, part of the proceeds help disadvantaged youth in the Mekong Delta.

Q SPA & SALON

31Q Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3905 4609 Qspaandsalon.com An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with wooden floors, flowers and flowing drapes makes this an excellent atmosphere in which to enjoy a massage.

Also offers hair styling and facials.

Sheraton Saigon, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828 Aquadayspasaigon.com Natural and holistic treatments abound at this refurbished luxury hotel spa, from natural rainforest showers to the use of Harnn & Thann spa products.

QING SPA

AVEDA HERBAL SPA

3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3520 9999 intercontinental.com/saigon Spa InterContinental offers guests the professional spa expertise and a truly sensory experience. With an extensive menu, the Spa InterContinental provides the caring touch of local therapists.

Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel:(08) 3519 4671 avedaherbal@gmail.com Aveda is a boutique spa based on Ayurveda. They use a range of 100 percent natural and herbal products.

Their Ayurvedic recipes are designed to take you to new heights of relaxation and rejuvenation.

CAT MOC SPA

110 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 589290 A new spa that offers services such as body massage, facial and hair treatments. The price list includes service with discounts for members.

SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND HEALTH CLUB

SPA TROPIC

63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1 Tel: (08) 6295 8926 catmocspa.com Aimed exclusively at ladies and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa include facial, body and foot care, and Japanese-style haircuts, as well as steam-sauna, paraffin and waxing services.

79 Phan Ke Binh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 5575 spatropic.com Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean Consulate. Spa Tropic has a long-standing reputation among expats and visitors alike for its professional quality service.

GLOW SPA

THANH SANCTUARY

129A Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8368 glowsaigon.com Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages lasting from 30 minutes, to two-hour hot stone therapy, includes

Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 0885 High–end spa set in the elegant grounds of one of the city’s most enviable addresses. The spa itself is intimate

22nd floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 2220 2600 spa1960.vn A luxury health spa that offers both relaxation and health care therapies to clients.Oriental remedies and therapies collected from the Traditional Medicine Institutes of Vietnam are used by the centre’s therapists.

THE SPA

Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 9007 Saigon Centre, 3M Floor, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 1800 thespavietnam.com Located at two serviced apartment locations, The Spa offers foot massages, body massages and treatments, facial skin treatments and pampering packages.

THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 8888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Elegant facility offering relaxation at the highest level.

Different treatment rooms are available to deliver contemporary rejuvenation treatments. Spacious changing rooms with jacuzzi, steam bath and sauna.

XUAN SPA

Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son Square, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 1234 hyattpure.com Breathtaking luxury spa with a tranquil atmosphere, Vichy shower room and range of high–quality massages, facial, body and foot treatments, and overall spa packages complemented by the use of Comfort Zone products.

YKC SPA

219 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 2791 ykcspa.com Exceptional service and customer satisfaction has established YKC as a premier pampering destination for Saigon’s expats and visitors.

YKC operates with the utmost integrity and respect in regards to serving its clients.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

FASHION Looking good and dressing even better is big in this image-conscious metropolis.

So, here are some of the fashion options available to you in Ho Chi Minh City

Accessories & Shoes ACCESSORIZE

Unit 37-38, B1 Floor, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9308 Accessorize pulls in droves of shoppers thanks to their attractive range of globally sourced products, from beachwear and children’s clothing to underwear, swimsuits, hats, bags, sandals, jewellery, sunglasses, and more.

ANUPA ECO LUXE

9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net Monday to Sunday, 9am to 8pm This centrally located unique boutique has been converted into an eco-boutique which exclusively retails the complete Anupa leather and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other unique eco brands such as bamboo eyewear, pendant scarves and cushion covers.

BIRKENSTOCK

B-42, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3936 9777 9am to 10pm Birkenstock sells shoes, sandals and clogs imported from Germany, offering similar products for kids. A pair of thong sandals starts at VND1.9 million for adults and VND1.6 million for kids.

BLUE DRAGON

1B Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 2084 8am to 10.30pm Well-known for recycled bags of various designs and colours. Other unique products includes quilts, ethnic bags, jewellery and scrap metal animals. Prices range from VND5,000 to VND2.1 million.

CHARLES & KEITH

18-20 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1132 B1-62 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9306 171 Dong Khoi, Q1 (08) 3936 9445 charleskeith.com 9am to 10pm With two branches in town,

this airy, well-displayed Singaporean store sells women’s shoes, bags, sunglasses and accessories. Prices are acceptable for an international brand.

DR. MARTENS

127-129 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3832 3904 hoangphucvietnam.com The bright yellow signage and the street style, wooden-shelf decor of this shop displays a range of shoes, sandals and boots. With Dr. Martens, it’s all about the quality of the soles.

GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN

35 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8162 galleryvivekkevin.com 9.30am to 8pm This retail-cum-gallery space specialises in contemporary and exclusive handcrafted jewellery made from handpicked gemstones and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run every month.

HCMC TDC SWISS WATCHES IPA-NIMA

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3277 71 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 2701 ipa-nima.com 9am to 9pm One of Vietnam’s most renowned brands for designer handbags and jewellery, Ipa-Nima offers flamboyant designs, unique twists and funky embellishments in great fashionable shapes.

Stocks shoes, dresses and hats.

SERGIO ROSSI

146AB Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 8382 Sergiorossi.com 10.30am to 8.30pm Features upmarket shoes and bags made from highquality materials such as crocodile or python skin, and garnished with a large variety of wooden, Swarovski crystal and European-style colourful beads.

SKECHERS

115 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9582 101-103 Nguyen Trail, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 4694 hoangphucvietnam.com 9am to 10pm One of the world’s most sought-after footwear brands.

SKECHERS offers new and stylish designs for both genders from 5 to 70 years old. A pair of sports shoes starts at VND2 million.

20 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3911 5995 393 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3929 0685 tdcvn.com 8am to 9pm TDC is the official dealer of Tissot, Swatch, Longines and Jacques Lemans. Stocks highend brands like Rolex, Cartier and Omega.

TICTAC WATCHES

72 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3519 tictacwatch.com 9am to 10pm TicTac, growing from a family watch specialist store to an elegant black-and-gold designer watch showroom, stocks luxurious brands such as Omega, Maurice Lacroix, Hirsch and Swiza. Provides repairs and battery changes.

THERESE JEWELRY

9 Nguyen Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 6011 Theresejewelry.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm A great lap of luxury. Products vary from pearl rings to sapphire earrings, from a gold plain daisy brooch to cufflinks. Prices start at VND10 million for a ring.

VESPA SHOP

Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A Ton Duc Thang, Q1 80 Xuan Thuy, Q2 11am to 8pm Stocks a wide range of Vespa-

inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts, riding gear, Italian helmets, Respro face masks, DVDs, books, bags, magazines, posters and more. Rental scooters and bikes available.

Clothing - Budget MARATHON

147 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 7442 123A Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 0019 9am to 10.30pm Simple and accessible, Marathon offers colourful beach pants, t-shirts, flip-flops, caps and a small selection of sneakers and belts. Prices start at VND110,000 for a tshirt.

PAPAYA

232 Bui Vien, Q1 papaya-tshirt.com 9am to 10pm Specialises in 100 percent cotton t-shirts and offers a small selection of hats, safety pins and postcards. Profits from each sale are given to two charity organizations.

ORANGE

152 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 2620 9am to 10pm With three stores throughout town, this well-known clothing outlet is aimed at teenagers and young adults, selling jeans, t-shirts, sandals and accessories. Prices are af-

HCMC fordable, with t-shirts selling for VND180,000.

RAZ GARNETT

137 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0122 210 008 9am to 10.30pm A fashion store with streetwear, t-shirts, bags, sunglasses, sneakers, authentic Brazillian Havaianas flip-flops and Crocs sandals.

Carries European-sized tshirts.

Clothing - Mid-Range BAM SKATE SHOP

174 Bui Vien, Q1 148 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 15H Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: 0903 641826 Bamskateshop.com.vn 9am to 10pm

Tattoo Artists With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over the past few years there has been an increase in the number of tattoo studios around the city.

Customers have the choice of picking their own tattoo out of the many look books on offer in the studios or bringing in their own design. Most of the studios offer body-piercing services as well. Pricing depends on size and style.

Lac Viet Tattoo 608 Dien Bien Phu, Q10 Tel: (08) 3830 4668 106 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 7068 lacviettattoo.com

Saigon Body Art 135 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: 0908 443311 saigonbodyart.com

Saigon Ink

26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1090 tattoovietnam.com

Saigon Tattoo 31B Nguyen Du, Q1 saigontattoo.net

Saigon Tattoo Group 81 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0908 573339 xamnghethuat.vn

Tattoo Saigon

128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: 0938 303838 tattoosaigon.com

Tattoo Tam Bi

209 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0919 034383 xamphunnghethuat.com

This hip-hop-style-cumskate store stocks a mix of sneakers, tees, hoodies, jeans, oblique baseball caps and accessories. A range of skateboards are on sale, costing between VND1.5 million and VND2.5 million.

9am to 10pm Stocks both casual and formal wear for both men and women, including jeans, tees, shirts, party dresses and working skirts. A pair of men’s jeans costs around VND1.8 million.

BOO

187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 134 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: 0936 303632 boo.vn BOO embraces street style in clothing and décor. BOO’s brands have their own street stalls in-store, stocking clothing and shoes made in Vietnam and designed by the youth-savvy staff.

GINKGO

54-56 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: (08) 6270 5928 10 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 8755 ginkgo-vietnam.com 9am to 10pm Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run store. Designs are inspired by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom wires and motorbikes to creative, Siddharta-style imagery.

NINOMAXX

118-122 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 9689 189A Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 8447 ninomaxx.com.vn 8.30am to 10.30pm Set in a large, two-floor space with Renaissance-style columns, Ninomax offers both men’s and women’s clothing.

As a brother to MaxxStyle, it has the similar prices and products.

Clothing Mid to Top BOSSINI

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3839 2292 Bossini.com 9am to 10pm Hong Kong-brand retailer sells male and female casual wear of various designs, including plain, striped, V-neck and button-neck shirts. Prices range from VND900,000 for jeans and VND700,000 for shirts.

D’BLANC

89A Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 5164 d-blanc.com 9am to 10pm Inspired by modern women and youth, D’Blanc introduces an ageless brand that balances a feminine, sexy aesthetic with an electric, urban sensibility. Dresses start at VND1.5 million.

FRENCH CONNECTION

Level 3 Vincom Center, Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9316 2nd Floor, 12 Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 Ngo Duc Ke Tel: (08) 6291 8793 Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 7740 Frenchconnection.com

126 | Word September 2013

GAYA CLOTHING

Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 Gayavietnam.com Clothing is designed and tailor-made by renowned designer Romyda Keth, and concentrates mainly on women’s wear. Gaya sells colourful, sexy evening dresses, embroidered floral skirts and cute chiffon tops.

GEISHA & GEISHA’S COFFEE AND TEA HOUSE

85 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4004 8am to 10pm Contemporary ranges of casual and evening wear fused with Asian designs. The apparel includes floral dresses, jean skirts, printed tees and street-style bags. Enjoy a cup of coffee at their café after.

LEVI’S

47 BC Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 0686 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 (08) 3993 9501 levi.com.vn 9.30am to 10pm For those with Levi’s love, there are several of the selfbranded stores throughout the city that offer a range of the latest jeans and accessories. Prices normally start at VND2 million.

LITI

40D Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 7114 Litishop.com 10am to 7pm Stocks simple but vintage embroidered and crocheted clothing for women and kids, along with clocks, brooches, teapots, cups and other art deco-style products.

A simple blouse starts at VND820,000.

L’USINE

First floor, 151 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6674 9565 lusinespace.com 10am to 10pm Exclusive labels, elegant and sophisticated clothing and casual high-quality cottons are stocked at this boutique/ café. Lifestyle accessories include shoes, homewares, knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.

MAI’S

132–134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2733 mailam.com.vn 9.30am to 9.30pm Run by designer Mai Lam, all products displayed are her own designs, with a mixture of vintage and modernised traditional clothes and accessories and a selection of artworks.

MANGO

40-42 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1136 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 7464 B1-43 Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9300 shop.mango.com/vn/mango 9am to 10pm This Spanish brand provides a range of clothing along with selections of bags, wallets, belts and scarves.

A shirt costs from VND1.2 million and jeans starts at VND1.4 million.

MARIPOSA

61 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 9993 mariposa.vn Established in Punta Del Este, Uruguay in 1960, master-brand Lolita operates ladies fashion boutiques in 19 countries around the world, with this one offering stylish and comfortable clothing for work or play.

MR & MRS SMITH

43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8019 9am to 9pm This designer fashion outlet sells a variety of clothing and shoes produced in Vietnam.

All designs are brand new, delivered from the factory weekly and sold at factory outlet prices.

SONG

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 75 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 4088 asiasongdesign.com Stocks clothing by French designer Valerie Gregori McKenzie with a quaint, slightly Gallic feel, made from a mixture of linen, silk and cotton.

A simple white tank dress costs VND760,000.

THUY NGA DESIGN

19-21 Vo Thi Sau, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3574 thuyngadesign.com 8am to 8pm One of the best-known garment brands in Vietnam, this luxurious shop stocks men’s and women’s clothing, including office attire, casual and evening wear, along with jewellery and accessories.

UMBRELLA

35 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 1ST Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 6276 2730 umbrella-fashion.com 8am to 10pm Umbrella sells their own women’s clothing designs including dresses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and blouses.

Prices vary, from VND999,000 up to VND3,499,000 on selected items with more complicated craftsmanship.

Clothing - Top-End ANUPA

9 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 2394 anupa.net

Houses the complete Anupa Collection along with products of Anupa Horvil’s handpicked eco designers.

Features luxury leather accessories including bags for men and women, yoga bags, and belts.

CHLOÉ

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 3582 Chloe.com 10.30am to 8.30pm One of the most popular international brands due to its well-tailored, traditional, feminine and fashionable products like low-rider fitted jeans, satin dresses, crocodile skin shoes, contemporary glasses and Sakia bags.

JUST CAVALLI

M-29, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9005 9am to 10pm This Italian brand’s apparel varies in both design and fabric stocking for men and women. A pair of floral shorts starts at VND9 million and a snake-patterned dress costs VND24 million.

MARC JACOBS

155 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3291 3580 Marcjacobs.com 10.30am to 8.30pm Situated inside the Rex Hotel, this urban American brand carries internationalstandard clothing and a wide range of accessories and sophisticated bags, starting around VND6 million.

VERSACE

Eden Centre, 171 Dong Khoi & 116 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3993 9001 9am to 10pm Stocking the designs of the iconic Italian fashion label, products come in many colours and fabrics, with floral dresses, plain chiffon blouses and skinny trousers designed elegantly in a classic and sophisticated style.

Lingerie & Swimwear AQUAMARINE

211 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5695 A small shop full of colourful products offering one-piece bikinis, two-pieces, monokinis and various types of beachwear. Prices start at VND790,000 for a bikini.

Custom orders are available.

TRIUMPH

184 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3968 Triumphvietnam.com 9am to 9pm A well-known underwear brand in Vietnam, designed with western women in mind. Bras start at VND600,000.

WACOAL

232 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3948 265 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3920 9443 34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3503 0078 9.30am to 9.30pm One of the growing number of Japanese underwear brands for women, Wacoal differentiates itself with its classic designs. Bras range from VND400,000 to VND800,000, while pants start at VND250,000.

Sportswear SPORTS STREETS

Huyen Tran Cong Chua, Q1; Pham Hong Thai, Q1 These two main streets in city centre stock everything from local clothing to imitations of famous brands like Adidas, Nike and Puma through to the real thing.

U.BEST HOUSE

163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1 Tel: 0978 967588 Ubesthouse.com 9am to 10.30pm Stocks a range of travel related products, including torches, binoculars, climbing gear, funky men and women’s casual outfits, bags, underwear and cycling gear.

Tailors MANDARINA

171 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 5267 9am to 7pm Great place for picking up a tailor-made pair of shoes or ready-to-wear shoes. Choose the design and colour yourself. Prices range from VND300,000 to VND2,000,000, depending on style and materials.

T&V TAILOR

39 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 4556 triciaandverona.com 9am to 11pm Offers tailor-made clothing in the latest and trendiest designs and styles, with a wide range of fabrics. Alterations are available. An ao dai starts at VND1.6 million, including fabric.

SSUZI

127 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0909 711312 9am to 10pm Sells women’s swimsuits in plain and floral styles, including one-piece and twopiece bikinis starting from VND250,000. Stocks maxim dresses from VND380,000 and beach sandals from VND110,000.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

HCMC

INTERIORS Give your home that look you’ve always dreamed of. Furniture and repro art is not just manufactured in Vietnam for export. Apparently you can even buy bicycles made from bamboo here. Oops, no. Those beauties are for export only.

Arts APRICOT GALLERY

50-52 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 7962 www.apricotgallery.com.vn 8.30am to 8.30pm With a sister gallery in Hanoi, this airy and spacious place is ideal for people interested in Vietnamese-themed art.

Displays and sells works by local leading artists, from past masters to new rising stars. Think carefully before purchasing as the cheapest piece starts at VND40 million.

DOGMA

1st Floor, 43 Ton That Thiep, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 8272 www.dogmavietnam.com 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as Saigon Kitsch, Dogma stocks many cool and interesting tidbits, including propaganda art costing from VND450,000 per poster, Uncle Ho statues, books and themed postcards. If you want to wear these pieces of propaganda art, there is a wide range of propagandaprinted tees and jackets for both men and women, stocking at around VND600,000. A small selection of jewellery is also available.

GALERIE QUYNH

65 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 8019 www.galeriequynh.com 10am to 6pm, Closed on Monday Although situated close to the canal in one of the poorer parts of District 1, this gallery retains it distinct character, providing visitors with an authentic artsy feel that avoids the jaded, Vietnamese-themed stereotypes available elsewhere in town.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday and run by Viet Kieu Pham Quynh and her partner Robert Cianchi, the art and installations on display here are the work of both international and contemporary Vietnamese artists. The helpful local staff speak good English. Visit the website for information on up-coming exhibitions.

NHU Y

257 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 7692 11am to 10pm Located opposite Highlands Coffee in Pham Ngu Lao, this small shop is decorated with lacquer paintings of Buddhist and Vietnamese landscapes

and flowers. Nhu Y takes custom orders and prices vary from VND150,000 for the smallest piece (20cm x 20cm) rising to VND1.1 million for a 40cm x 80cm painting.

PHUONG MAI

7 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 3166 129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 3181 www.phuongmaigallery. com 9am to 8.30pm Located opposite the Vincom Center, this tiny white space displays selected contemporary artworks by Vietnamese artists. Styles include abstract works, landscapes and modern day impressionism, focusing mainly on lacquer on wood, oils on canvas and silk paintings.

More paintings are displayed at the Le Thanh Ton gallery in a four-floor building with each floor yielding a different style of art. Prices start from VND2.7 million. Credit cards are accepted.

REPRODUCTION

STREET – BUI VIEN, Q1 Although available elsewhere in town, Bui Vien in the Backpackers’ Area is the best place to find reproductions of masterpieces by the likes of Van Gogh, Monet and Degas as well as Andy Warhol copies and the works of a whole host of other artists.

Depending on size, style and material, prices vary but generally start from VND1 million per painting. Shops include Truu Tuong (No. 158), Buddha Art (No. 230), Duc Tai (No. 155A), Hanh Dung (No. 210), Duc Anh (No. 136), Nam Phuong (No. 105) and The Sun 3 (No. 145).

Crafts EM EM

38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 4408 8am to 9.30pm With its ancient-looking dark brown and tiled roof, many Japanese tourists favour this petite shop. Carries a full range of products including souvenirs, embroidered handkerchiefs, kitchenware, home décor and much more.

There are also large selections of men’s shirts, ties and women’s dresses and skirts. Offers order-madeclothes to fit individual sizes and tastes.

MEKONG CREATIONS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 S17 – Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-creations.org A project of the NGO Mekong Plus designed to support community development programmes in remote villages in Vietnam and Cambodia. All products are locally produced, including paper mache, ratten, bamboo and hyacinth products, contained and displayed in a simple white-painted space. Bamboo vases from VND350,000 and rag ranges from VND400,000.

NGUYEN FRERES

2 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 9459 8am to 8pm The dark, musty décor gives Nguyen Freres the aura of a haunted house. Strange, unique yet seductively attractive, this retail shop doesn’t stand out as much as other places in the same area but it is big and carries a wide range of products concentrating on northern and hill-tribe culture with ethnic clothing, hand-crafted décor items and antique furniture. Items costing as low as VND20,000 can be found here.

ing of the northern rural Vietnamese tribes such as the Hmong, there is also a cute line of ladies’ shoes, silk wraps and bags.

MEKONG QUILTS

1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3110 S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 6271 7758 mekong-quilts.org A charity organization helping poor women in rural areas, all products are handmade with a wide range of quilts in many designs and fabrics. Special orders can be taken for delivery within 5-6 weeks. Also stocks accessories such as aprons, sheets and tablecloths.

Furniture AUSTIN HOME

20 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 0023 Austinhomevn.blogspot. com

9am to 6.30pm Located in a villa-style building, this An Phu-based shop stocks antique repro furniture. All products are samples, so it’s limited and exclusive with only one or two pieces of each particular item. Also has a great range of imported fabrics up on the 2nd floor and an in-house sewing room for cushions, sofas and curtains. Offers custom-made furniture and delivery within four weeks.

Home décor orders are also available.

A&W FINE FURNITURE

Km 11 + 300 Hanoi Highway, Q9 Tel: (08) 3730 9856 www.awfinefurniture.com 8am to 4.30pm, closed on Sundays Produces high-end Danish design sofas and armchairs in contemporary and traditional styles. With imported

materials, the brand provides a large amount of high quality products for the Vietnamese market and exports to Europe, New Zealand, Australia, Taiwan and Singapore. Also offers to produce customers’ own designs.

Their products are stocked at AA Deco with Their products are stocked at Nha Xinh showroom.

BELLAVITA

The Crescent Mall, 101Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 7355 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 4201 bellavitafurniture.com A branch of the AA Corporation, Bellavita specialises in the distribution of imported high-end furniture manufactured by well-known brands such as Walter Knoll, Poltrona Frau, Minotti and Cassina.

Most products displayed in this airy space include chairs, tables and other high quality glassware. Orders are

NINH KHUONGEMBROIDERY

83 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 9079 42 Le Loi, Q1 (08) 3824 7456 ninhkhuong.vn 8am to 10pm With more than 10 stores around the city, this Vietnamese company is known for its hand-embroidered and crocheted products including bedding, tablecloths, napkins and placemats. This packed and slightly haphazard looking shop also stocks children’s and adult’s wear as well as souvenirs. All products are made from linen and cotton. Prices vary but normally start from VND110,000 per item.

SAPA

209 De Tham, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9780 69 Dong Khoi, Q1 7am to 10.30pm Gorgeous tribally-inspired handbags, dresses and accessories on the ground floor combine with authentic tribal clothing on the floor above.

Concerning itself mainly with the hand–woven cloth-

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September 2013 Word | 127

HCMC Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

SHOPPING MALLS Diamond Plaza

34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08) 3825 7750 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Hung Vuong Plaza

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel: (08) 2222 0383 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Parkson Plaza

35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3827 7636 9.30am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Centre

65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08) 3829 4888 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Saigon Square

77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 9am to 9pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics

Saigon Tax Trading Centre

135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel: (08) 3821 3849 9am to 9.30pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Souvenirs, Restaurant

Vincom Center

70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.

Tel: (08) 3936 9999 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

Zen Plaza

54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 0339 9am to 10pm Cosmetics, Perfume, Clothing, Accessories, Electronics, Café, Food Court

taken 10 to 12 weeks in advance before delivery. There is also a selection of home décor items such as pottery.

BOCONCEPT

68-70 Dong Du, Q1 Tel: (08) 3824 6604 The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 7357 boconcept.vn Located next to Sheraton Hotel, the first BoConcept shop stands out thanks to its black signage and glassy atrium. The shop carries a full range of furniture including sofas, beds, wardrobes, tables and chairs; all are imported from Denmark. Delivery of non-stock items takes up to two weeks. Also has a range of furnishing accessories such as mirrors, rugs, paintings and lamps.

CHI LAI

53 Pham Ngoc Thach Q3 Tel: (08) 3827 3696 160 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 3820 1090 175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4543 chilai.com 8am to 9pm This well-known Vietnamese furniture brand is a good choice for most families with its respected highquality designs and competitive prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and Dien Bien Phu, the spacious showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such as table sets, shelves and kitchen cabinets. There is a large selection of carpets as well as numerous choices of curtains and accessories.

DECOSY

112 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9917 Everything you need to furnish your home in the showroom, from tables, beds, cupboards and shelves made of wood and steel to tableware, decoration accessories and candels. Nice range of furniture for babies and toddlers. Custom design services and project supply avaiable.

DIABOLO

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 1803 9am to 8pm The two-storey shop stocks contemporary and colorful furniture and decorative accessories, from sofas and armchairs to tables and cabinets, lightings, votives, kitchenware, vases and a full range of modern home accessories. Special orders are possible for delivery all over the world.

ESTHETIC

11 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7371 9am to 7pm Having just moved to its new location, this large twostorey outlet specialises in

128 | Word September 2013

interior and external designs.

Products include beds, sofas, wardrobes and shelves made from high-quality woods.

Also offers antique reproductions as well as madeto-order furniture such as sofas and home décor designs. Lamps, lampshades and other accessories are also stocked.

FEELING TROPIC

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2181 8am to 6pm, closed Sundays Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this three-storey building is so packed full of items for sale that it doesn’t seem to have enough space for all of its products. The basement storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets, while the second level stocks all types of indoor furniture except beds. Accessories are found on the level above.

Special orders are taken for delivery within three weeks.

Also offers a rental service.

T H E F U RNI T U RE HOUSE

81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643 8am to 6pm This two-storey shop carries all types of furniture, displayed simply so as to give clients a general idea of each product’s style and quality.

Items for sale include chairs, tables, wardrobes, drawers and other furniture made from Kiwi pinewood and acacia. Custom orders are accepted and take about four weeks for delivery.

Free shipping is included for orders costing more than VND10 million and within Ho Chi Minh City. As a general pricing gauge, a bed costs VND5.6 million and a wardrobe starts at VND6 million.

THE FURNITUREWAREHOUSE

3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: (08) 6657 0788 thefurniturewarehouse. com.vn 9am to 7pm Specialises in high-end European-style furniture for outdoor and indoor design and home décor. Products include wardrobes, armchairs, sofas, tables and shelves made from pine, oak, acacia and hardwood. There is also a selection of antique furniture and décor items. Free shipping and made-to-order available for small quantities. Visit the website for more information and prices.

GAYA

1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 1495 gayavietnam.com 10am to 8pm Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II

buildings in the city, Gaya has a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps and tableware, with all products both constructed and designed locally. You can find a wide range of mirrors and lacquerware with bowls, vases and contemporary Asian-style boxes as well as a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all colours and designs. Prices here match the quality of the products.

GOMO

7/30B, road 13, Binh Hoa, Thuan An, Binh Duong Tel: (0650) 883 700 Typical of the large, slightly out-of-town stores found in Europe, North America and Australia that focus on all things for the home, Gomo represents the arrival of a new style of homewares shop in Vietnam.

HAFELE SHOWROOM

46A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3997 7300 hafele.com.vn 8am to 8pm This giant glass showroom features a comprehensive range of products including exclusive kitchen and bathroom appliances, furniture, and light and locking systems. This is also a good place to pick up sensor equipment and items such as rubbish bins, doors and lights. The selection of door handles is endless and all products are imported from Germany. Like Gaya, prices are top-end but the quality is beyond reproach.

LIVING & GIVING

59 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 7614 9am to 7pm This narrow four-storey building carries products ranging from sofas, chairs and tables to beds, bookshelves, cabinets, dressers and wardrobes. Accessories include ceramic pots, candles and mirrors. Special orders can be taken based on the catalogue or custom design and will be delivered within three weeks. Also stocks a range of bedding made from cotton, linen and silk.

THE LOST ART

45 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 6080 Saigonlostart.com 9am to 5pm With more than 10 years in the business, this old world, French colonial styled store has a reputation for restoring and reproducing antique furniture. Products include armchairs, sofas, tables, bookshelves, drawers, lamps, paintings, ceramics, lacquerware and much more.

Also offers an exclusive inte-

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rior design service package, from initial design to installation with natural wood imported from the US. Free consultation is provided via phone or email.

NHA XINH

2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 6115 CR3, The Crescent Mall, 111 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6657 www.nhaxinh.com 8.30am to 9.30pm One of the most renowned Vietnamese furniture suppliers, this brand has over 15 years experience in the business, selling a wide range of furniture products made for the bedroom, living room, dining room, kitchen and bathroom. Custom orders are also accepted. Also sells a large selection of home decorations such as handmade flowers, statues and modern lamps. Offers a good design consultation service.

REMIX DECO

222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 4190 remixdeco.com 9am to 9pm This white-painted building sells highly stylized, contemporary imported indoor furniture made from various materials. From wood to plastic, and crystal to stainless steel, this shop stocks a large selection of sofas, tables and chairs. Accessories include exclusive clocks and lamps. Paintings of Marilyn Monroe, Chairman Mao and other well-known characters are also stocked.

VERLIM INTERIORDESIGN

152 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 3648 verlimdesign.com Inspired by the sumptuous textiles, rich palettes, and hotels of the 1940s, Verlim stocks a well-curated and eclectic trove of French, Chinese and Vietnamese Deco furniture and accessories, including outsized teak-framed mirrors, panelled screens and low-slung armchairs. There is also a selection of antiques and art deco reproduction. Arranges shipping and offers custommade items.

VIVACOLOUR

Tel:0903 873599 vivacolour@gmail.com Vivacolour offers professional interior design services for your home that create a personalised ambience to express your style and personality, business colour consultations to build a tailor-made environment for your team and clients, visually expressing your brand and communicating your values to your customers.

Contact Pascaline for more information.

Kitchenware CNR. PASTEUR & NGUYEN DINH CHIEU, Q1

It’s easy to figure this area out with all the stainless steel goods hanging from the rows of shops. You can quite literally find everything for the bathroom and kitchen, from sinks to cups and dish shelves to buckets. Compared to other shops in the centre of town, prices tend to be cheaper here. However, prepare to bargain.

Lighting AO DONG

Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 1854 36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3926 0114 caodongdesign.com.vn CaoDong Design is an official distributor of the award-winning TouchAble brand. Stocks elegant and fashionable interiors, and a selection of souvenirs, leather boxes and luxury stationary. Includes table-standing lamps, pendant lights and hand-painted lampshades imported from Spain and the UK. Promises to deliver non in-stock orders within 30 to 45 days.

LIGHT HOUSE

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel: (08) 2210 3460 kimsa.vn 8am to 7pm Located opposite Saigon Square, this big store displays all types of lights from ceiling and wall lights to table and desk lamps with lampshades in all designs and styles. All products are self-produced and designed, and are made from a comprehensive selection of high-quality domestic and international materials.

Good customer service with enthusiastic staff. Customised orders are accepted.

MOSAIQUE

Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 4634 mosaiquedecoration.com This eye-popping lime greenpainted boutique carries furniture, tableware and decorative home accessories. Also stocks an exclusive selection of lights and lamps, including lotus lamps at VND300,000, lacquer lamps at VND400,000 and orchid lamps at VND650,000. All products are Vietnamesethemed and are made from bamboo. As well as selling locally, Mosaique exports to Europe, the US, Australia and Africa.

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HCMC

{Interiors} Three Motorbikes is a Crowd

Photo by Laura Pinon Diaz

M

y roommates and I rent a house in an alley in the center of Ho Chi Minh City — a thin, tall row house of sorts with three bedrooms and four bathrooms. With one floor and en suite bedroom for each of us, it’s perfect for three young girls. There’s one problem, though: we have absolutely no space to park our bikes.

For the first eight months this wasn’t a real issue. During the day we just left our bikes outside, bringing them in every night at around 10pm. We live in a very small alley, and while we may not speak the same language as most of our neighbours, we know them and they know us. There was a sense of familiarity in our little neighbourhood that made us feel safe.

Some time ago, though, something happened that directly affected this neat little arrangement. My motorbike got stolen, in the middle of the day.

Handlebars locked — at 3.30 pm.

Besides the obvious downside of having to pay back my motorbike man for

the bike, the biggest effect this has had on my roommates and I is that we never leave our motorbikes outside anymore.

Our living room has become a makeshift garage even more so than before. The three bikes my roommates and I use almost already make the room barely usable. Add another bike? Someone is definitely going to have to use it as a chair if we’re all watching TV. Five bikes?

You can barely make it through the living room and into the kitchen.

Boundless Bikes Dang Anh Dan, a real estate agent, says that this is a common problem. Even in prominent high-rises, tenants will sometimes be able to rent an apartment but not be offered a space in the parking garage due to lack of availability.

“In the city, it’s very hard to look for a place to park bikes,” Dan says.

Dan’s advice? Find a space outside to park your motorbike. Dan says you can rent a space in a garage for around VND200,000 to VND300,000 a month,

and empty building lots often set up temporary outdoor parking lots until construction starts.

For our part, my roommates and I have tried to use the space as best as possible.

Our bikes now act as both coatracks and footrests, carrying helmets, bags, schoolbooks, water bottles, ponchos and our feet when we’re watching TV. The truth is, though, that we really haven’t been able to get that creative with our new situation. The pre-game gatherings we used to have before a big night out have ceased to exist. There are no more roommate bonding nights in the living room over movies and Monopoly — instead we all just gather in one of our bedrooms. When friends want to get together and hang out, we go somewhere else.

We could all find spaces outside the house to store our motorbikes — then walk back home after a long night, be late to work the next morning. My best advice for this situation? Rent a bigger house. — Margaret Smith

September 2013 Word | 129

HCMC

* ELECTRONICS Nope, Ho Chi Minh City is not as cheap as Hong Kong or Bangkok when it comes to those camera and computer purchases we are all obsessed with these days. But it’s not far off. Here’s a lowdown on where stuff is available

Cameras CAMERA STREET

Saigon’s photography lovers need look no further than Huynh Thuc Khang, Ho Tung Mau, Nguyen Hue and Le Loi to find dozens of stores stocking everything from digital to disposable cameras. Camera accessories, such as lenses and caps, digital image printing and other services are also available too as is a range of second-hand lenses and camera bodies.

CONG DANH

11/13 Ho Dac Di, Tan Phu Tel: 0937 868 679 Digitalcongdanh.com 8.30am to 6.30pm This is a typical Vietnamese retail outlet without decoration and with products displayed in glass cases. Selling digital and video cameras of well-known brands such as Nikon, Canon, Panasonic, Sony and JVC, prices start at VND9 million for a professional camera and VND5.5 million for a standard video camera. Also sells a range of accessories.

GOPRO HERO HD CAMCORDERS / CAMERAS

Tel: 0903 035 271 silversun.co Wear it or mount it. Waterproof, professional, true HD and extremely small. The world’s most versatile camera and accessories are available in Vietnam from authorised distributor Silver Sun Ltd Co. in Da Nang. Call for details of stockists or for a direct order.

LE VU NIKON

113 Nguyen Hue, Q1 Tel: (08) 3915 1166 9am to 8pm Located in the same building as The Lost Art, Le Vu Nikon specializes mainly in Nikon products with a full range of cameras and accessories. A normal DSLR Nikon camera with a lens that can be disassembled is priced at VND12 million. Batteries cost between VND200,000 and VND300,000. Also offers a maintenance service and part exchange.

MAT RONG VANG

Fitting & Services Centre, 117/28 Nguyen Huu Canh,Q2 Tel: (08) 6294 5448 goldendragoneye.com Ctrack GPS vehicle solutions.

A world leader in real time

monitoring and data collection, Ctrack GPS has operations in 56 countries and have more than 20 years of hands on experiences in solutions related to GPS and management logistics. Juotec T-eye Dashboard Cameras record events outside and inside vehicles with high-res 1.3Mb cameras.

PHAM THE

11 Le Cong Kieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5888 Situated in one of the most beautiful antique-store streets in the city, this small shop restores and fixes all kinds of cameras from Nikon and Canon to Sony. They will locate and identify the specific problem and quote a price before fixing the camera. Speak good English.

Computers COMPUTER STREETS

Bui Thi Xuan, Nguyen Cu Trinh and Ton That Tung streets are considered to be the places to shop for computers, selling everything from LCD monitors, RAM sticks, keyboards, webcams and internet phone cards through to speaker systems at reliable and affordable prices. Many of the stores also offer a computer maintenance service.

CARTRIDGE WORLD

81 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3514 0999 8am to 5pm This Australian company provides an impressive selection of printing solutions such as ink, lasers, faxes, photocopier cartridges and high-quality paper. Free pick-up and delivery service, and a refill service is available at reliable prices.

With professional staff, the store offers an effective and quick restoration and maintenance service for printers of well-known brands such as HP, Epson, Canon, Xerox and Brother.

FPT ELEAD COMPUTER

236 Dien Bien Phu, Q3 Tel: (08) 7300 6666 elead.com.vn 8am to 5pm A large internet service supplier, FPT is also known for being one of the biggest Vietnamese IT brands. Manufacturing IT products including deskstops, notebooks, servers and accessories, their stores are found nationwide.

Prices start at VND5,7 million for a desktop without monitors, and a notebook costs from VND11 million. Accessories vary, from flash memory cards and scandisks to USB bars. Visit the website for information and product prices.

HOAN LONG

Hoan Long Building, 244 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 2999 hoanlong.com.vn 8am to 9pm Located opposite Co-Op Mart, this glass building carries a full range of IT equipment and accessories, including laptops, desktops, Acer RAM and products by Dell and Sony. Also sells Apple’s iPad, starting at VND21.8 million for the 3G version and MacBooks for VND28 million.

In addition has a small selection of digital video cameras.

Offers an assembly service for both domestic and international orders. Good post-sale maintenance and customerservice.

LONG BINH COMPUTER

50 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 0699 101 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3925 4008 longbinh.com.vn 8am to 7.30pm This shop concentrates mainly on notebooks, stocking popular brands such as IBM, Dell, Acer, HP, Sony and Apple.

Also stocks plus disk drivers, RAM and batteries, and offers cameras, pocket PCs, smart phones (HTC and 32GB iPhone 4 sold at VND23.6 million), projectors and printers. Good customer service and quick delivery.

PHONG VU

125 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q1 Tel: (08) 6290 8777 264A-264C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3933 0766 vitinhphongvu.com 9am to 9pm Known as one of the leading IT retailers in town and located at the corner of Cach Mang Thang 8 and Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, the products for sale at Phong Vu include computers, laptops, office equipment, entertainment devices and accessories. Also provides internet and network solutions and systems.

Good maintenance service for desktops, notebooks and

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130 | Word September 2013

printers. Visit the website for more information.

Vuong, Q5 (close to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai).

THANH NHAN

THANH CONG MOBILE

174-178 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1 Tel: 0902 500955 tnc.com.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm This supermarket-esque shop is an official distributor of top brands including Intel, Asus, HP and Acer, stocking everything from laptops and desktops to monitors and keyboards, laptop fans and computer speakers. Office equipment, including photocopiers, fax machines and paper destroyers, is also sold here. Other entertainment devices, such as mobile phones and mp3 players are also stocked.

THUAN MY CO.

227 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3838 9164 thuanmy.com 8am to 5pm Devout fans of that new religion called ‘Apple’ will be satisfied at Thuan My, one of the growing number of Apple dealers in Saigon.

Products include MacBooks, iMacs, iPods, iPhones and their numerous accessories.

Remember to ask for software installation. Competitive market prices and service make this place stand out.

Mobile Phones GIA KIEN

352 Durong 3 Thang 2, Q10 Tel: (08) 3868 3733 giakien.com 9am to 6.30pm Besides stocking the ubiquitous iPhone and iPad, this shop also sells mobile phones from the likes of HTC, LG, Dell, Nokia, Vertu, Blackberry and more. There is also an exclusive and unique selection of handsets from the likes of GoldVish Gold Le Million, Porsche P9521 and Tag Heuer.

Prices are higher than other places but the after-sale customer service is excellent.

MOBILE STREETS

199 Phan Dinh Phung, Q7 Tel: (08) 3990 1199 thanhcongmobile.com 8am to 5.30pm One of the top five master dealers nationwide with popular mobile phone brands such as Nokia, SamSung, LG, Motorola, and Panasonic, this company is an official distributor of Philips in Vietnam.

Produced the first Vietnamese mobile phone, Bavapen, and also stocks the iPhone 4 at VND21.3 million. Accessories include phone wallets, earphones and batteries.

THE GIOI DI DONG

130 Tran Quang Khai. Q1 Tel: (08) 3812 5960 thegioididong.com.vn 8am to 10.30pm This well-known retail chain catches the attention of pedestrian shoppers due to the unmissable and striking yellow signboard with its long black logo. The website is efficient with adequate photos and information on phones and specifications. The staff speaks English and the store offers online orders at cheaper prices. Stocks everything mobile, from phones through to tablets and laptops.

VIENTHONG A

328-330 Ba Thang Hai, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3333 vienthonga.com Has more than 65 stores nationwide and offers a comprehensive range of mobile phones from top brands such as Apple, HTC and Blackberry to the Chinese makes Cayon and Huawei. There is also a wide range of top laptops and mp3 and mp4 players.

Recently opened a technology support centre called EBAR where customers check and test new products and software. Online orders with free shipping is available.

P H O NE

The following streets have dozens of stores selling major mobile brands such as Samsung, Nokia, LG, Apple, etc. New and second-hand handsets and extra accessories are also available. Ba Thang Hai between Ly Thuong Kiet and Ly Thai To, Q10; Hai Ba Trung between Le Duan & Dien Bien Phu, Q1 & Q3; Hung

ELECTRONICS MARKETS Known as “electronics supermarkets”, the number of stores selling everything from TVs, refrigerators and air conditioners to washing machines, coffee makers and blenders seems to be increasing by the day. You’ll also be able to find vacuum cleaners and irons from popular brands such as Sony, Samsung, Toshiba, JVC, LG and Sanyo. In addition these stores stock a wide range of mobile phones from the likes of Nokia, Samsung, Motorola and Sony Ericsson. In order to attract the largest number of customers, most of these stores offer daily promotions with competitive prices. Visit their websites for promotions, online orders and more information.

Cho Lon Electronics MarkeT

590 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3846 4700 www.dienmaycholon.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

Gia Thanh

975 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: (08) 3923 1536 www.giathanh.vn 8.30am to 9.30pm

iDEAS Shopping Centre

133–141AB Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 www.ideasshoppingcenter.com 8.30am to 9.30pm

Nguyen Kim Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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63–65 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3821 1211 www.nguyenkim.com 8am to 10pm

Thien Hoa

277B Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q10 Tel: (08) 3863 3733 www.dienmaythienhoa. vn 8am to 10pm

HCMC

GROCERIES *

From catering services through to the growing number of bakeries - and we’re not talking Tous Les Jours. Here are places to stock up on wine, liquor, imported cheeses and freshly baked bread

Bakeries CAKEWALK

84 Nguyen Cong Tru,Q1 Tel: (08) 6295 9087 cakewalkvn.com Specialising in freshly baked cupcakes such as the Ravishing Red Velvet, Foxy Banoffee, and Heavenly Honey, this boutique cupcake shop also offers coffees, teas and juices. Wi-Fi available.

CRUMBS

117 Cong Quynh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3836 1992 crumbs.com.vn Dubbed “the local bakery”, Crumbs serves up a variety of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and garlic–based buns and loafs, meat–filled pastries, sweet pastries, health–conscious breads and more. There is also a breakfast menu and variety of sandwiches available.

FRESH DONUTS

33 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 5404 7777 The air of American donuts infuses this pleasant and popular venue, with a variety of the sweet circular treat complementing an excellent selection of coffees, teas and juices. Specials include the mixed fruits donut, ice cream donut, and ice cream & sauce/peanuts donut. The store is open from 7am to 10pm daily and offers free Wi-Fi and a non-smoking area.

HARVEST BAKING

30 Lam Son, Tan Binh Tel: (08) 3547 0577 harvestbaking.net Made to order baking delivery specialists by phone or email. Scones, bagels, breads (everything from 12 grain loaves to Italian focaccia), muffins, cookies, buns, fudge cake and more, from upwards of VND45,000.

Orders must be placed 48 hours in advance.

NHU LAN

64–68 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 1338 50 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 2970 Nhulan.vn Selling baguette–style bread for VND5,000 and basic freshly made sandwiches for around VND15,000. Also has a range of Vietnamese

pastries and savouries. Open 24 hours.

SIMRANS

SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7 Tel: 0908 828552 simrans.sg For anyone with a sweet tooth, this cake delivery service offers homebaked products using the finest ingredients including fresh fruit, imported butter and chocolate. No preservatives or hydrogenated fats are used. All cakes and cookies are made to order and can be customised upon request. Free delivery is available. Place orders one day in advance.

SESAME BAKERY

birthday cakes, BBQs, corporate events, private parties, wine tastings and more, Au Parc Catering provide a full service including drinks, glass rentals, waiters and crockery. For a quote, email auparc@gmail.com or call Mr. Loi on 3829 2772.

GASTRO’HOME

100 Xuan Thuy, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9830 New delicatessen shop offering western–fusion French food. French Chef Stephane Courtin and his team will assist you in a Gastro’Home food experience. Visit the shop in An Phu or try the “at your home” catering service for a dinner, buffet or cocktail party.

153 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3518 0897 Located in the premises of the Hospitality School, Sesame Bakery provides practical experience to its students.

Has a wide variety of French pastries, loaves, baguettes, cookies and cakes at good prices. Special order and delivery available.

LE REUNION MARMITES

TOUS LES JOURS

NORFOLK CATERING SERVICE

180 Hai Ba Trung, Q3 Tel: (08) 3823 8302 59 Tran Hung Dao, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 4350 187 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: (08) 3925 1908 Although tailored to the local market, this Korean–owned bakery chain and café bakes a tasty range of pastries, bread and cakes all at very affordable prices. Excellent baguettes and sandwich bread. Also does a slightly sweet version of croque monsieur.

VOELKER

39 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 6296 0066 voelker-vietnam.com French–run bakery selling probably the tastiest range of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passion–fruit tart is a must try.

Catering AU PARC CATERING

7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 1565 Parccatering.com Available all year round for

DES

Tel: (08) 6274 0647 lareuniondesmarmites.blogspot.com A French food delivery service that does cocktail parties, buffets and events specialising in salads, sandwiches, gratin, quiche, pies, desert, muffins and more.

Visit website for full menu.

Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 5368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Delicious food and professional service for any special occasion including company functions, formal banquets, Christmas and New Year parties. Reasonably priced.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn With extensive experience in menu design, The Caterers will come up with an original menu for your party or gathering, then prepare all the food and serve it to your guests. Also offers a venue for clients to use.

THE SAIGON CATERING COMPANY

84 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien Ward, Q2 Tel: 0913 981 128 info@saigoncateringco.com SCC can create a menu to meet your exact requirements and budget.Theirchefs use the freshest ingredients to produce quality, perfectly cooked and beautifully pre-

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sented food at reasonable prices.

Groceries ANNAM MARKET

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9332 41A Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2630 Annam-gourmet.com Attractive and spacious French–owned grocery shop stocking a large range of foods, organic fruit and vegetables, imported beers and wines. Also sells luxury branded products from the likes of Fauchon. The deli upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung branch serves tasty baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free Wi–Fi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured meats in town. Free delivery for Districts 1, 2 and 3.

AUSSIE–FRUITS

45 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 8126 aussie–fruits.com Aussie Fruits are among the first in Vietnam to promote a full range of Australian seasonal fruits. Their mission is to bring the best quality fruits from Australia into Vietnam, with professionally trained customer support along with a state of the art facility that guarantees 100% freshness directly from Australian farms. Check their website to see what’s in season.

CLASSIC FINE FOODS

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street), Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 7105 classicfinefoods.com Supplier for the city’s five– star hotels, also distributing brands like San Pellegrino, Rougie foie gras, Galbani cheese, fresh poultries, meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all the products at the gourmet shop on location.

KIM HAI BUTCHERS

73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 4376 Kimhai.vn Stocks a comprehensive range of fresh meat products imported directly from Australia. Beef and lamb make up the bulk of the selection, but some locally–sourced poultry and fish products

are also on offer. Also does pre–packaged prepared meat like chicken strips – perfect for the freezer. Open seven days a week.

PHUONG HA

58 Ham Nghi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3914 1318 Mini supermarket stocking a large range of imported foods, cheese, meat, fresh fruit, vegetables and good wines. Friendly service and helpful staff, although the selection of products is slightly smaller than its next door neighbour, Thai Ha.

THAI HA

60 Ham Nghi, Q1 Supermarket that vies with its next door neighbour, Phuong Ha, for customers.

Excellent selection of imported goods including canned foods, dairy products, cereals and meat products. The staff here speak reasonable English although the service is better next door.

VEGGY’S

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 8526 Packed from floor to ceiling with imported cereals, meats, cheeses, and almost anything else you can think of, this is a very popular choice for expats doing their weekly shop. The walk–in fridge at the back is a draw in itself.

Liquor & Wine ANNAM SHOP

GOURMET

16–18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3822 9332 Annam-gourmet.com Here you’ll find anything from Guinness to Leffe, with a whole lot of Belgian, Australian and German beers in between. Also has an excellent selection of imported wines and liquors.

BACCHUS CORNER

158D Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3306 103 Ton Dan Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 3829 3306 bacchuscorner.com A range of spirits, whiskies and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over the world with an especially good selection from France, Chile and South Africa. Also has an excellent range of single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an on–site wine

tasting machine, the Enomatic, the first of its kind in Vietnam.

DALOC

74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 5404 3575 46A Tran Quang Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 5404 7147 daloc.vn A premier importer/distributor of quality wines, spirits, non–alcohol drinks, representing over 400 wines, spirits and drinks from 12 countries since 1995.

KANGAROO INDOCHINE

6/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q1 Tel: (08) 6210 2986 Wine wholesaler importing well–known Australian wines. Present portfolio includes Kangarilla Road, Zema Estate, Buller, Bethany and Chapel Hill.

RED APRON

22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 0021 One of the largest distributors in town, stocks around 90,000 bottles from virtually every region in the world.

Sells both retail and wholesale.

THE WAREHOUSE

178 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8826 924 Tran Hung Dao, Q5 Tel: (08) 6261 1526 One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition to their excellent range of wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.

VINIFERA

7 Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08) 3521 0860 Viniferavn.com Well–known and respected wine importer and distributor stocking a number of old and new world wines.

Brands include Perrin & Fils, Pere & Fils, Dr Loosen, Kracher and William Fevre.

VINO WINE SHOP

74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1 Tel: (08) 6299 1315 Corner of Thao Dien & Duong 2, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9059 Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.

Also offers regular popular wine courses. The outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot to sample a new vintage.

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GEN.V

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Got kids? Looking for that perfect school for your children? Want to give them involved in some extra-curricular activities? Search no further. Here are some options for you

Baby Equipment BELLI BLOSSOM

12 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 6615 4th Floor, Crescent Mall, Nguyen Van Linh, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 7574 belliblossom.com.vn Stocks imported brands of maternity wear and nursing accessories, infant clothes, baby utensils, strollers, high chairs, slings, baby carriers, diaper bags and more.

DU LUNDI AU SAMEDI

17/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Q1 Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi Q1 Vincom Center, 70/72 Le Thanh Ton Q1 Sells clothing for kids from newborn to toddlers, as well as bedding, equipment, accessories and organic jarred baby food.

MAMAN BEBE

Vincom Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 8724 184 Le Dai Hanh, Q1, Tel: 0912 161642 mamanbebe.com.vn Carries strollers, car seats, baby utensils, clothing, and accessories. Most products are made by the Japanese company Combi.

MOM & BABY

230 Vo Thi Sau, Q3,40 Ton That Tung Q1; 101103 Khanh Hoi, Q4; 141D Phan Dang Luu; 287A Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nuan, Q7 Tel: (08) 3932 1611 The closest this city has to Mothercare, stocking apparel, bottles and sterilisers.

Classes & Sports DANCENTER

53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490 dancentervn.com Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop, funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at this modern dance studio.

HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3823 7691 Minhnguyenpiano.com Former conservatory student Nguyen Trung Minh offers lessons in piano at Minh Nguyen piano boutique for all ages and levels.

MONTESSORI SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Geneva Conservatory graduate Steffen Christophe teaches an introduction to musical instruments for students aged four upwards at Montessori, as well as private and group lessons in guitar, keyboard and voice.

PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON 19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: (08) 6281 9679 paa.com.vn Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and saxophone.

Also provides musical assessment and a mixture of private and group classes.

PIANO CLASSES

Tel: 01225 636682 morrissokoloff@hotmail.com Suitable for kids of all ages, these piano lessons range from basic to advanced.

RUBBA DUCKIES SWIM SCHOOL

Tel: 0122 7163844 Rubberduckiesvietnam.com Infant water familiarisation classes for little ones from six months to three years, run

by Elizabeth Hollins.

SAIGON MOVEMENT

Tel: 0987 027 722 saigonmovement@gmail.com Aiming to improve children’s total body awareness through games and sports activities, Saigon Movement offers a variety of classes in movement development for ages two to 11. Contact Abbie Klein.

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 955780 helenekling.com French painter offers daytime and evening courses for children and adults, teaching beginners about different mediums and techniques and helping artists of all skill levels unlock their creativity.

SAIGON SEAL TEAM

INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

SAIGON PONY CLUB

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700 Inspirato.edu.vn Private music lessons in piano and violin from beginner level up to Grade 8 and beyond. Also runs a chamber music club with regular concerts and ensemble lessons for strings and woodwind.

KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel: 0908 460267 kidsclubsaigon.com An early childhood centre offering early learning programmes for children aged 18 months to five, including toddler playgroups, preschool classes and enrichment activities. Also has after-school activities for kids aged four to eight.

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55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2 Tel: 0905 098 279 This 15-week PADI programme conducted

by Rainbow Divers, the leading PADI dive centre in Vietnam, offers scuba diving adventures in a swimming pool for eight to nine year olds.

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2 Tel: 0913 733360 Saigonponyclub.com An excellent way for children to escape the urban bustle is to ride one of the 16 ponies and learn riding techniques from three, part–time teachers.

SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (08) 7303 1100 saigonsportsacademy.com International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to 16 years and private lessons for children and adults. Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.

TAE KWON DO

BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: 0903 918 149 Martial arts expert Mr. Phuc welcomes anyone over the age of five to take part in his thrice–weekly classes. An additional fee for non–members applies.

VINSPACE

6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846 vin-space.com Provides kids classes in anything from mixed art, oil painting, crafts and still life drawing through to jewellery making and fashion design.

Clothing CHILDREN’S PLANET

90 Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9881 childrenplanet.com.vn Provides boys and girls’ clothing from ages five to 14 with clothes imported from Singapore.

DEBENHAMS

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 6291 7592 A range of apparel for children from newborns to pre-teens with clothing imported from the UK.

LITTLE ANH-EM

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0917 567506 In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies and children up to 10 years old, Little Anh-Em stocks sleeping bags and other accessories.

NINH KHUONG

42 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7456 83 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9079 ninhkhuong.vn Offers 100 percent cotton hand-embroidered apparel for children ages one to 14.

Children's Books FAHASA

60-62 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8832 Fahasa.com Good selection of imported books for all ages as well as cheap stationery, stickers and other odds and ends.

PHUONG NAM

2A Le Duan, Q1, Pnc.com.vn Picture books for babies to stories and education books for older children can be found here.

NHA SACH ME VA CON

(Mum and Baby Bookstore) 46 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8386 Nsmevacon.com Supplies a variety of books, paintings, pictures, CDs, VCDs and DVDs, stationery and gift accessories for mums, dads, children and educators.

Education ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5431 1833 theabcis.com Serving students from 32 nations, ages two

East-West Highway, An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3747 1234 acgedu.com Part of the Academic Colleges Group’s international network of schools, ACG boasts comprehensive education programmes from kindergarten to high school, a range of extracurricular activities, and impressive facilities.

AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (AIS)

Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 2727 Thao Dien Campus, APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, Q2 , Tel: (08) 3744 6960 Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (EastWest Highway), An Phu, Q2 Tel: (08) 3742 4040 aisvietnam.com The Australian International School is an IB World School with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering an international education from kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP).

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BIS)

246 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2335 bisvietnam.com Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS provides a British-style curriculum for an international student body and is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers. Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and a member of FOBISSEA, BIS is the largest international school in Vietnam.

CITYSMART

Horizon Tower, 214 Tran Quang Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3526 8833 7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh, Q3 Tel: (08) 3832 8488 Flemington Tower, 2nd Floor 182 Le Dai Hanh, Q11, Tel: (08) 3962 1218 citysmart.vn CitySmart delivers a range of diverse, internationally-recognised educational programmes, as well as life skills and character building for comprehensive development.

COMPASS EDUCATION

15 Tran Doan Khanh, Q1 Tel: (08) 3820 3302 compass.edu.vn Promoting and facilitating English language acquisition, Compass Education offers a range of courses designed to meet academic, corporate, and professional goals.

Offers nanny and teacher placements as well as career counselling.

GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF VIETNAM

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Gymboree Play & Music has been fostering creativity and confidence in children up to five years old for over 30 years, making them a leader in early childhood development programmes.

CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

13C Phong Phu Commune, Binh Chanh Tel: (08) 5412 3456 cis.edu.vn The first Canadian international school in

Vietnam serves local and foreign students from Kindergarten to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the internationally recognised Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting academic excellence.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (ISHCMC)

28 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9100 ishcmc.com The only fully authorized IB World School in Ho Chi Minh City, ISHCMC has been awarding graduates with an IB Diploma and sending them off to high-profile overseas universities since 1999.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON PEARL (ISSP)

92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 2222 7788 issp.edu.vn ISSP offers a rigorous American-standard curriculum, as well as unique extra-curriculars like golf and Mandarin Language classes. A brand new, state-of-the-art campus caters to students from nursery through to grade 5.

KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE Crescent Residence 2, 107 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: 0907 099 480 kindermusik-vietnam.com Kindermusik is the world’s premier music, movement and English language programme for children from birth to age 7.

Each weekly lesson promotes early literacy and English language acquisition, social skills and more.

LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN 102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung, Q7 Tel: (08) 5421 1052 Lgkids.vn Little Genius Kindergarten shares a curriculum with its sister school in the US. Its facilities and learning environment remain unsurpassed by any other kindergarten in Vietnam.

MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 2639 montessori.edu.vn Aiming to encourage children’s engagement with their surroundings, MIS offers children from age three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as a variety of extra–curricular activities.

Renaissance International School Saigon (RISS)

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7, Tel: (08) 3773 3171 rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides students from over 25 nations with a British / international education. Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers at their state–of–the–art campus.

German International School – GIS

730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, Q2

Saigon International College Tel: 7300 7257 (SIC) www.giss.vn

21K Troi, Phu Nhuan 0938 TheNguyen GermanVan International SchoolTel: offers 371760 a unique bi-lingual German-English programme for students, from a variety of sic.edu.vn nationalities, fromCurriculum 2 to 16 years old. Itsof Overseen by the Council curriculum is based onprogram the internationWestern Australia, SIC’s for years allytorecognised Primary Years Programmes 10 12 provides graduating students (PYP), Middle Years Programme and with the Australian Certificate(MYP) of EducaIB Diploma Programme the International tion (WACE), allowing of direct entry to all Baccalaureate (IB) system.

Australian universities.

RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL SAIGON (RISS)

74 Nguyen Thi Thap, Q7 Tel: (08) 3773 3171 rissaigon.edu.vn RISS provides students from over 25 nations with a British / international education. Students ages two to 18 enjoy classes taught by qualified native English speakers at their state–of–the–art campus.

SAIGON INTERNATIONAL COLLEGE (SIC)

21K Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3997 6046 sic.edu.vn Overseen by the Curriculum Council of Western Australia, SIC’s program for years 10 to 12 provides graduating students with the Australian Certificate of Education (WACE), allowing direct entry to all Australian universities.

SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL CHILDCARE CENTRE

15 Street 12, perpendicular to Tran Nao, Q2 Tel: (08) 3740 8081 saigonkidskindergarten.com SKECC has evolved over 10 years to create a creative, playful learning environment for children ages two to six. Limited class sizes and highly engaged teachers ensure personal attention for all students.

SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SSIS)

78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413 0901 ssis.edu.vn Offers an American-style education (SAT, IB and AP) from elementary to high-school, emphasizing a multi–cultural student environment and a commitment to well– rounded education at all levels.

SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Residential Area No. 5, Thanh My Loi, Q2 Tel: (08) 3742 7827 saigonstarschool.edu.vn Supported by the Cambridge International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates Montessori methods into nursery and kindergarten programmes to create a stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes allow experienced teachers to cater to individual needs.

SMARTKIDS

1172 Thao Dien Compound, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 6076 26, Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3898 9816 15 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08) 3519 4236 smartkidsinfo.com This international childcare centre provides children ages 18 months to six years with a high quality education in a playful and friendly environment.

THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF VIETNAM

172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2 Tel: 0903 952223 theamericanschool.edu.vn An independent and private university preparatory school with an individualised programme, The American School of Vietnam offers a US-based curriculum for Kindergarten through to Grade 12.

VAS

98 Cach Mang Thang Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 3930 7278 23 Tran Cao Van, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 7278 vas.edu.vn One of the leading schools in Vietnam, VAS provides programmes from kindergarten to secondary school. In line with their mission to encourage a global mindset in new generations, VAS integrates international educational methods.

VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE STUDIES SAIGON (VLS)

45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 0168 90 Le Van Thiem, Q7 Tel: (08) 3602 6694 vlstudies.com VLS has built a reputation over 18 years by offering courses tailored to all abilities. Classes are located either at VLS’s high quality facilities, or at the learner’s office/ home.

Entertainment BINH QUOI BOTANICAL GARDENS

1147 Duong Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Tel: (08) 3556 6020 binhquoiresort.com.vn Features a landscaped park, weekend buffets, and children’s activities and entertainment. Reachable by boat from District 1.

DAM SEN PARK

3 Hoa Binh, Q11 Tel: (08) 3963 4963 damsenpark.vn Popular theme park / water park provides fun for the whole family at a low price.

DIAMOND PLAZA

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: (08) 3825 7750 Diamondplaza.com.vn Features a fourth–floor bowling alley and video arcade as well as youth–oriented eating options such as KFC and Pizza Hut.

PARKSON PLAZA

35 Bis Le 45, Le Thanh Ton, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7636 Parkson.com.vn Parkson Plaza has a large selection of arcade games along with a bowling alley and a food court one floor down where you can regroup after zapping millions of aliens.

SAIGON ZOO

2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1 Tel: (08) 3829 3728 Saigonzoo.net A wide variety of animals, well maintained facilities, peaceful atmosphere, and fun activities for kids including bumper cars and playgrounds.

SUOI TIEN AMUSEMENT PARK

120 AH 1, Tan Phu, Q9 Tel: (08) 3896 0260 Suoitien.com Offers all of the expected amusement park attractions in a spectacular setting that includes a man-made beach, a dinosaur garden and a zoo.

X-ROCK CLIMBING

75 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, Q2 Tel: (08) 6278 5794 xrockclimbing.com Offers beginner and advanced mountain climbing routes, safety courses and training at its 26–metre, purpose–built mountain in District 3, with an additional location in District 2.

Kids' Parties GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC

Somerset Chancellor Court, 1st floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 7008 gymboreeclasses.com.vn Specializing in first through fifth birthday parties, Gymboree will take care of everything, including venue, invitations, party favours and more. Offers themes such as Princess Palace and Dinosaur Adventures.

HCMC

{STUDENT

Eye}

Back to School — Dateline Seoul, Korea — Aug. 5

Photo by Kyle Phanroy

I

t has already been seven weeks since summer break started, and now I’m left with just seven more days of this holiday. I have entered the ‘panic stage’ of the holiday as I — along with all the other teenagers in the world — have finally noticed the large pile of summer reading and projects that I had hidden in the corner of my memory. While lamenting the misfortune of the ‘return of school’, somewhere very deep in my heart a small speck of relief and comfort sparkles.

In my experience, holidays usually follow a consistent pattern. First they start off nice and fresh, filled with excitement and the joy of freedom from school. However, near the end of the break, we get bored of all this ‘freedom’ and actually miss school, and when it’s time to go back we’re almost glad.

The Eternal Enemy As the traditional wisdom goes, school is the ‘eternal enemy’. For students, school is something that keeps us from sweet sleep, something that takes away our freedom

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and replaces it with piles of homework and exams. And the fact that it’s mandatory makes it even less likeable. We feel no guilt openly acknowledging our animosity towards school, like it’s a tradition to treat it in such a way. So the question is: why do students miss school?

As I see it, school gives students a perfect excuse to just be kids. Summer is great; we get all the freedom to try out things we wanted to do or be lazy all week long, and as I have mentioned last issue in Summer Internship, it’s also a time when we can dictate our lives. But, as exciting and great as that might sound, it is also a difficult and pressuring responsibility.

Too Much Freedom With two whole months to ourselves, we are endlessly pressured to search for meaningful, memorable and enjoyable things to do. School gives us an excuse to escape such load. We get to live a much simpler, and perhaps somehow less responsible life at school, where we simply

follow a neatly organised schedule, learn the things that are taught, do the homework we are given, and most importantly have a clear understanding of what we are going to do when we wake up in the morning each day.

Although this may not sound much like an ideal, independent lifestyle, school provides students with a stronghold free of the burdensome responsibilities of running our lives. It is one of the few places left where us future adults are still treated like kids.

Many adults, especially my mother, have always said things like, “School was the best time of my life. All your late night homework and your seemingly boring classes, you’ll miss them more than anything else when you grow up.”

Having experienced my so-called mature but burdensome summer, these words now seem quite true. But I am a student, a ‘normal’ teenager, and school is still my eternal enemy. And I am glad to return to it. — Tae Jun Park

HCMC THE BALLOON MAN

100/531B Thich Quang Duc, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3990 3560 For an unusual and special performer, contact the excellent Balloon Man, who has earned a reputation for dashing instantly to any party that needs balloon shapes.

THE CATERERS

46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu Tel: (08) 3812 6901 thecaterersvietnam.com.vn Although mainly focused on grown–up events, this company does an excellent job catering for kids’ parties.

Medical AMERICAN EYE CENTER

5th Floor, Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7 Tel: (08) 5413 6758 americaneyecentervn.com An American Board-certified ophthalmologist with 15 years of experience in the US treats vision problems such as hyperopia, astigmatism, focusing problems, myopia, strabismus and lazy eyes.

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848 vietnammedicalpractice. com Three paediatricians prac-

tice their speciality at this well–equipped medical care centre. Also has obstetrics and gynaecology services for expectant mothers including pre–natal screening.

FV HOSPITAL

6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Q7 Tel: (08) 5411 3333 fvhospital.com This international–standard hospital has a dedicated and fully equipped pediatric centre staffed by a team of international specialists.

Also offers other maternity services.

INTERNATIONAL SOS MEDICAL & DENTAL CLINIC

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3 Tel: (08) 3829 8424 internationalsos.com Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, the internationally experienced pediatric team at this clinic will meet your family’s preventative, diagnostic and treatment needs. House call service is also available.

STARLIGHT DENTAL

2Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Q3 Tel: (08) 3822 6222 starlightdental.net Modern, well–equipped clinic with both western and local dentists experienced in providing preventative care and reconstructive procedures for children

of all ages.

VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC

79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1 Tel: (08) 3910 4545 135A Nguyen Van Troi, Q7 Tel: (08) 3910 4545 victoriavn.com Committed to pediatrics, this clinic provides services including general examinations (vision and hearing checks, immunisation, growth and development assessment) as well as specialist consultations.

Toys Toyville Cafe

At Snap

32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2 Tel: 0903 918 960 (Alex) / 0918 339 734 (Y Nhu) Wide selection of branded toys and games, from the usual suspects to the real hard to find. Specialises in ages 3 to 10, open daily from 9am to 7pm

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

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Hanoi City Guide BUSINESS 154 / bars 156 / Cafes 157 / Eat 158 / Leisure 162 / fashion 165 / home 167 / medical 169 Photo by Francis Roux

A D D I TI ONA L F E ATU R E S

The Promotions 161 The Alchemist 162 Book Buff 163 Windown Shopping 164 The Therapist 165 A World of Good 166 Medical Buff 168 School Ties 170

Many Faces

The Sausage Man It started as a part-time hobby for a Filipino English teacher, but now his sausages are on the menu at Hanoi Social Club and it looks like business could be on the up. Marc Forster-Pert went to meet the man behind the snag. Photos by Francis Roux

H

e comes across as a down-toearth, charismatic individual.

A firm handshake and a warm, welcoming smile. A modicum of modesty spoken through a rhythmic lilt. But Aris Cabiles has no need to be humble — his homemade sausages pack a delectable punch that leave the taste-buds wanting more.

Butchery is in his family — both his grandfather and father were in the meat business — and it’s clear to see how this skill has been passed down. He’s been buying the freshest cuts of pork from the same lady in Yen Phu market for 10 months, and everything is made from scratch — even the casings. He refuses to use a sausage maker, stating “it slows me down, so I still do it handmade using a funnel and my hands”.

Inspiration The garlic sausages he first made are popular in his home city of Baguio. But he didn’t stop at just garlic. “Inspiration comes to me in the market, I see some things and I think, ‘I can put them in the sausages.’” It was Christmas time when he had the idea to put dried fruit in a pork sausage. This has become his most popular flavour.

The story of how he started making Photo by John Kay / Hanoi Social Club

bangers came from the Filipino love of sharing among people. “In the Philippines, it’s rude to eat alone — you offer everything.

I just wanted to share my food and I guess that’s how ‘Sausage Tuesday’ started.”

Wanting to cook on his day off, but not having a kitchen, he went to a friend’s house to use theirs. He began by sharing the Filipino food he’d cooked with the house.

This developed into a regular Tuesday night soiree and when he eventually moved in, he said to himself, “Today, I’m going to make some sausages.” And while the rest may be history, Sausage Tuesday is continuing to grow.

It’s evolved from an intimate gathering of his housemates to a hosting by a local Bia Hoi, where up to 40 people turn up to try his delicious produce. Although he spends up to eight hours in the kitchen to prepare, all he asks is that people bring something to share.

He has also started to sell his sausages by the kilo. But it’s not about money. “For me, to see them enjoy the food I make, that’s payoff enough.”

The Bia Hoi was a necessity because of neighbourhood complaints, but he hopes he can move it back to his house where people can sit communally on the floor, eating off banana leaves while enjoying live music.

The Business It was John, the proprietor of The Hanoi Social Club, who approached him about featuring a dish using his sausages. “I was so happy when John said there’s a dish for it at the social club. I thought, whoa, this is amazing because I never really thought about making money from it.”

John actually wanted to host a sausage night, which could have been a win/win situation and an avenue to develop business, but Aris was reluctant to commercialise the event beyond his home-cooked, no nonsense, food-sharing affair at the Bia Hoi. Another problem is that he doesn’t really know how to price his sausages — he

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admitted his business acumen fails to match up to his cookery skills and at the moment, he’s just selling them at cost price to his friends.

Whether it will work on a retail basis, time will tell. Aris has given samples to a couple of established restaurants that are known for good food, and he wants the sausages to be featured in a special or creative dish. “I want them to do something good with it, not just fry it or put it on a stick.”

What about starting his own venture?

“Yeah, I’m up for [it], I like being the person in the kitchen looking after the food, but the book keeping, the accounting, the finances, let someone else take care of that.”

Aris’s current idea is to open up a sausage stand by converting his motorbike in to a mobile barbecue. “Two kegs of beer, some music and two dishes; maybe bangers and mash or sausage in a bun with a salad, you could drive around anywhere and just set up.”

This concept has obvious hurdles, but in theory, it’s a great idea that would make a marvelous addition to what Hanoi is known for worldwide — its simple and great tasting street food.

The dish at the Hanoi Social Club — garlic and rosemary sausage accompanied by an egg baked inside an avocado — is a feast for the eyes before you’ve even tucked in. It’s now live on the menu and the good news is that the current lonesome star attraction of Aris’s plumb and flavoursome snag is set to be joined by a teammate to pack more of a punch. Says John from Hanoi Social Club, “we’ll be adding one more sausage.

One is not enough, and a dipping relish or chutney.” The changes will no doubt turn a good concept into a mind-blowing breakfast or brunch, increasing the demand for the services of the Sausage Man. To taste Aris’s sausages, visit the Hanoi Social Club (6 Ngo Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem). Everyone is welcome at Sausage Tuesdays: contact Aris for more info on 01697 911967

“Everything is made from scratch — even the casings.

He refuses to use a sausage maker, stating ‘it slows me down, so I still do it handmade using a funnel and my hands’” September 2013 Word | 139

Day Tripper

Chua But Thap Just 30km from Hanoi sits one of Vietnam’s most revered and architecturally magnificent pagodas. Words and photos by Nick Ross

140 | Word September 2013

O

n my way back to Hanoi I realised my mistake. It was the monk who had put me right.

“You should take the dyke road through to Co Bi instead of the highway,” he told me. “It’s much quicker, and goes all the way.” He failed to mention how beautiful the road was.

Enclosed by vegetable fields, banana plantations and paddy fields, on one side slithers Duong River. On the other, villages break up the otherwise green patches of field. But not your typical, dusty, end-ofthe-road, newly built collections of concrete houses. The area around Chua But Thap has been inhabited for so many centuries that even the clusters of houses maintain the age. Crumbling red-brick walls, maroontiled rooves, blackened, weather-beaten

walls, wooden pillars, dark-wood doors.

Normally drives out of the capital require tackling dusty, death-pit highways and crumbling asphalt, but from the vantage point of the raised dyke road, this route which comes out on Highway 5 in Gia Lam offers sweeping views rarely found so close to Hanoi.

The Monk One of the best-known and most revered temples in Vietnam, But Thap Pagoda’s 10 buildings house objects and statues considered to be masterpieces of 17th century wood carving. 50 different sized statues include the Triad Buddha, Manjusri on a blue lion, Samantabhadra on a white elephant and the thousand-handed, thousand-eyed Guanyin, which is described

as a sculptural masterpiece. And, in the centre of it all, a young, brown-robed, grinning monk.

It had been raining intermittently that day in advance of an oncoming storm, and arriving semi-drenched I stumbled on a group of French tourists. A congregation of elderly ladies knelt on one side of the inner courtyard, led in prayer by the monk.

Spread out in front of them was a makeshift altar — a blanket covered in ancestor-style offerings. As soon as the tour group left the grounds, the prayer abruptly finished, the women rose and the chattering started.

I was ushered under a roof to avoid the drizzle, one lady offered me some xoi and a banana, and then the monk rocked up with a huge “Bonjour!”

I replied in French, but he was lost, so I

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switched to Vietnamese. The atmosphere changed. Had the prayer session been contrived, put on for the sake of the tourists?

The monk was openly friendly, not standoffish like many other of his creed.

Quickly the standard questions flowed.

Where are you from? How long have you been in Vietnam? Are you married? Seeing my camera he ushered me to take his photo.

Monks are usually camera-shy, but this carrier of the faith posed readily, his face filled with pride.

Eventually I took my leave and wandered through the buildings. When you’ve seen one pagoda, you’ve seen many, goes the old adage. But not But Thap. The statues, the carvings, the ambience, the age — all provide this sacred space with an aura that sets itself apart from many of its contemporaries.

Built during the reign of Tran Thanh Tong in the 13th century and rebuilt to its present

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design 400 years later, the complex includes two white stone towers, a three-entrance gate and an eight-roof bell tower. Despite the accolades, the architectural accomplishments and the hard-to-fathom prayer sessions, the pagoda maintains its spirituality. It also acts as a reminder of the rich history of Vietnam, a history that war and conflict did its best to erase. Add in the journey from Hanoi, and this is a day out that easily etches itself in memory.

Getting There Take Vinh Tuy Bridge out of Hanoi. At the Nguyen Van Linh roundabout turn right towards Hai Phong. About 1km after the Lang Son intersection with Highway 1, turn left into Co Bi. Follow the road to the end and turn right onto the dyke road.

Chua But Thap is in Dinh To, Bac Ninh.

The trip takes just under an hour.

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Urban Living

Royal City Katie Jacobs goes in search of the perfect urban complex.

Might it be located in the newly opened Vincom Royal City in Thanh Xuan? Photos by Francis Roux

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ooming over the neighbouring skyline, the glaring white towers stand in stark contrast to the surrounding dusty buildings and flat grey sky. Uniform rows of dark windowed apartments stare blindly into a sparse central courtyard where an imposing chariot, led by four bucking stallions, emerges from a bubbling fountain to greet visitors. A small garden, flanked by faux Greco-Roman sculptures, provides refreshing relief from the mass of surrounding concrete.

Welcome to Royal City, Vingroup’s new megamall, which, in the words of their media department, offers “a perfect urban complex in a green and clean space”. Royal City is not only aiming for perfection, it claims to be Hanoi’s largest living and recreation complex with a strong focus on “eco-architecture”. In an increasingly urban world, high density housing and recreation complexes, such as Royal City, are believed to have a bright future in the development of sustainable cities.

“Vincom Mega Mall Royal City is an ideal shopping, entertainment and recreational destination for every Hanoian, a mustsee,” said Le Thi Thu Thuy, Vingroup’s Vice Chairwoman-cum-CEO, at the Jul. 26 opening in Thanh Xuan District. Indeed, on a recent rainy day in the four-storey underground mall, it seemed that half of Hanoi agreed that this was the place to be.

However, the concept of a “perfect urban complex” is subjective — current urban design literature unanimously agrees that at the core, urban spaces should provide interplay between social cohesion and environmental sustainability. In short, they should allow people to feel happy, excited and safe, while environmental impact is minimised. Rather than creating buildings to shape a space, progressive urban designers aim to create spaces that can be shaped by human input. So what is it about Royal City

that makes it the “perfect urban complex”?

Life, Design and Space As a few visitors pause to take the obligatory photograph besides a flowerbed, construction sounds echo in the empty expanse. The surrounding buildings house 4,500 new condo units — we are told that 70 percent have already been sold.

However, based on the dark windows and hive of construction, the majority seem to be uninhabited. Despite the bustling mass of people in the underground mall, the complex is yet to develop its own character.

Attractions such as the artificial ‘food street’, complete with sidewalk tra da, decorative cyclos and plastic palm trees, feel more like Disneyland than a site for ‘green and intelligent living’.

“Urban design should start with life and wait with buildings,” explains respected urban designer Jan Gehl. He argues that it is not the buildings themselves but the spaces in between that develop a socially sustainable and culturally integrative place where people want to be. Hanoi, a city where life is lived on the streets, offers a culture ripe to experiment with Gehl’s philosophy. When fully open, Royal City will offer playgrounds and 7,000sqm of green space for recreation and relaxation. Facilities, such as the new school and supermarket, will provide the opportunity for a young and vibrant community to develop.

The key is that Royal City has the potential to take Hanoi’s energy and use it to create a diverse and interesting human landscape in the public areas between the towering apartment buildings. When construction has settled and people move into the apartments, Vingroup will hopefully develop the site as a multi-use area that embraces both indoor and outdoor activities.

Searching for Green In his book, Towards Sustainable Communities,

“Attractions such as the artificial ‘food street’, complete with sidewalk tra da, decorative cyclos and plastic palm trees, feel more like Disneyland than a site for ‘green and intelligent living’” 144 | Word September 2013

Mark Roseland argues that sustainable development and urban design have become inseparable. However, designing environmentally friendly developments is the easy part — implementing the ideology is the challenge, particularly in high-energy consuming, waste-producing constructions such as shopping malls.

“Royal City was built in compliance with criteria of ecological architecture,” says Vingroup, although it is unclear whether this extends to the multi-screen televisions and ice-skating rink.

Says Patrick Formigé, general director at Site Asia, the architectural firm behind Royal City, “The original design concept included features, such as central air-conditioning and advanced insulation, to minimise energy consumption… However, implementation of these features is difficult [due to] cost restraints”.

Although energy saving schemes are initially more expensive, the reduction in energy consumption provides long-term savings. Fortunately “Vietnam’s energy costs are still relatively low,” continues Formigé, and “until there is a dramatic rise in the cost of electricity, developers will continue to talk about, rather that implement, energy saving techniques”.

Where action lacks, talk abounds — Vingroup are at least talking about environmentally sustainable development in Hanoi. Although Royal City’s plan for “luxury living in a green and clean space” may not yet be fully realised, they deserve recognition for contributing to the fledgling conversation about what large-scale green building could mean for the city.

There is a general consensus among urban planners that high-density, multi-use space is a more sustainable approach to urban living than suburban sprawl. Although environmental impact is greatly influenced by architectural design and building materials, the overall energy consumption and waste output is lower in apartment buildings. Furthermore, transportation use and fuel emissions can be reduced by encouraging people to play where they live.

Royal City is yet to reach the perfection it is seeking. However, with time and human input it has the potential to become both a community and an interactive, energetic hub bringing together people from across the city.

Royal City is located at 72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan

LIVE

CAMA Festival 7 Next month, The American Club will once again play host to Hanoi’s annual music festival. So get those glad rags at the ready for the musical event of the year. Photos provided by CAMA

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here aren’t many international music festivals in Southeast Asia, and few have been around as long as the CAMA Festival. Bringing the best of Asian and international talent

Insider’s Tip Keep your ears to the ground for info on pre-festival events at CAMA ATK, where many of the bands will be hanging out and doing shows in the days leading up to the main event. One of the major advantages of a boutique festival like this is intimacy; it’s never been so easy to meet your favourite band, buy them a drink, give them a hug, then party with them at the after-party. Check out camafestival.com for more info.

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to a green space in the centre of Vietnam’s capital, this smorgasbord of live music, food, drink and art has been celebrating creative culture for six years. With the date now moved from the summer to the milder, autumnal climes of October, year seven looks to be equally enticing.

2013’s event will see eight bands on the main stage, with acts from the USA, Australia, India, Germany and Macau playing alongside some of Vietnam’s best artists. The music policy is always eclectic and this offering will be no different — with indie, reggae and electro already confirmed. As always, the magic of the festival is discovering surprising new acts and having one hell of a good time.

Indeed, the event’s crowd is almost as much fun to watch as the performances

on stage: dancing, fancy dress and stage diving are all par for the course. This year, CAMA has also teamed up with the Hanoi Flea Market to bring a boutique creative arts market to the centre of the show. So, if you can still carry away some prize purchases after guzzling away on the music combined with all that food and drink, you might just be in for a double treat.

Attracting an esoteric, hedonistic mix of locals and expats looking to cut loose on the grass, all ages are catered for. The kids can hit the play park, the girls can head to the Hanoi Flea Market, and the boys (and possibly even the ladies) can crowd around one of the many bars and beer stalls, before everybody meets up again at the main stage to catch the next act.

The Bands Here is a brief look at some of the confirmed acts for this year’s show.

Raggabund (Germany)

Turtle Giant (Macau)

Zoo (India)

This reggae duo have done much to change perceptions of German culture, by moving away from the country’s trademark electronic sounds into something altogether different. Raggabund have been expressing their love for Jamaican music and socially conscious lyrics since 2000 in a smooth mix of reggae and urban dancehall. Expect their performance to be full of bassy, ragga grooves to keep dutchies moving and crowds skanking.

Three-piece indie collective Turtle Giant aren’t nearly as big as they should be. From Macau and featuring two Brazilian natives, the trio blend dreamy vocal harmonies with jangly guitar like a classic British indie band. Look out for the single We Were Kids, its infectiously euphoric chorus would have the likes of Arctic Monkeys nodding in approval.

India isn’t renowned for its modern music, but Zoo are going someway to changing that. The polished quintet marry electro, techno and rock into a series of brooding tracks that build into full-on, cut-loose freakouts of electronic rock. Keeping everyone’s attention is charismatic female vocalist Tanya Sen.

Expected to be announced soon are bands from the US, Australia and of course Vietnam. Check out camafestival.com for more information on tickets and to see who’ll be completing the line-up. The festival will hit the American Club, 21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, from 1pm to 11pm on Saturday Oct. 12

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Struck Out By the time Word was ready for print, Hanoi Star Bowl was ready for renovation and the doors have sadly — or fortunately, depending on your viewpoint — now closed for the sprucing up. It was scheduled to take around two months, so check back at Tet, just to be safe, and by then the joint should be rolling away as usual. You can also call (04) 3574 1614 to check progress.

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BOWLING

When Old Meets New Marc Forster-Pert compares and contrasts Hanoi’s two 10-pin bowling centres — the old, in Hanoi Star Bowl and the new, Royal Bowling at Vincom Mega Mall Royal City. Photos by Francis Roux. Translation by Tran Phuong Dung

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owling alleys. The noise of balls rolling down the oiled wooden lane. The crash, as pins are scattered. The sound of arcade games played in the distance. And of course, loud pop music blaring over the speakers while shoes are rented, drinks are ordered and plates of fast food are devoured by kids at a birthday party.

Immortalised by movies like The Big Lebowski and Kingpin, there’s something special about going bowling, about that elusive strike. Dating back 4,000 years — apparently the ancient Egyptians played to wind down after a rough day getting their slaves to build pyramids — three millennia later, King Henry VIII banned the sport as it was too much of a distraction from work.

But in the last 60 years bowling has earned more widespread popularity and rivals sports such as football for regular players. Whether it be relaxing with friends, the setting for a first date or the location for a family night out, bowling is arguably the cleanest form of fun that just about anyone can enjoy.

Despite its popularity in Vietnam, the recent closure of two ten-pin bowling alleys in Hanoi begs the question, how healthy is the sport in the capital? So we checked out the two remaining centres. Would bowling ‘Hanoi-style’ offer something different with a Vietnamese twist?

The Old Finding Hanoi Star Bowl (2B Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da) is harder than you might imagine. There are no bright lights, no neon signs, just a building that looks as though it’s about to be knocked down. This isn’t far from the truth and here’s why.

Walking up the stairs and into the main lobby is like stepping back into 1994, and if you’re over 30, you’ll remember exactly what that means. Not much has changed since the alley opened in 1998 to a fanfare and a high degree of local interest.

The cumbersome TV score screens hang from the ceiling with cheesy animations that have evaded an update, and the signs and graphics around the centre still remain the

same as when they were the coolest new place in town.

The receptionist asks if you want shoes.

These are optional — you can bowl in hiking boots if you want, but the charge is compulsory. Another staff member then fires the lane into life with an inaudible clunk.

A drinks list — a list of four or so drinks — can be obtained from the bar, which looks more like a store room than a bright, well-stocked drinking area. Still, at least the drinks are chilled.

Bowling here feels like you are back in the 1990s, and for a moment you believe that maybe time travel is real. There is no music and you might find you are the only people here, your lane lit up among the darkness of the 14 empty ones.

Maybe the reason it’s so quiet is that there is no website or online presence. The manager, Nguyen Hai Dang, told us a wellestablished reputation renders a marketing budget redundant. He also said that there’s going to be a two-month-long renovation, hence the builders downstairs. We’ll wait and see the results, but there’s fresh competition for this Hanoi stalwart.

The New Again, finding the bowling centre in the cavernous expanse of Vincom Mega Mall, Royal City (72A Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan) isn’t the easiest task — the place is massive and there aren’t any signs that read ‘Bowling — This Way’.

Once found, the modern and fresh design, if a little over-themed in the corridors leading to the lanes, transports you back to the 21st century with the sounds and liveliness one might expect of a western alley. We visited in the mid-afternoon of a weekday, and it was already busy despite it only opening on Jul. 26. The atmosphere reeks of fun and enjoyment rather than the sombre, church-like ambience of Hanoi Star Bowl.

Everything is slick and well-oiled, the experience more refined and the manager, Tran Viet Hung, in charge of Vinpearl Entertainment, has some bright plans for the future. He is organising a seven-day

“Despite its popularity in Vietnam, the recent closure of two ten-pin bowling alleys in Hanoi begs the question, how healthy is the sport in the capital?”

national competition which he wants to be an annual event — this has recently been advertised on TV. The website is nearly up and running, and there is a healthy marketing budget. He wants this bowling alley to be firmly placed on the map of Asian ten-pin centres.

Hung believes it is busy because people are coming to see the new shopping mall, but with a positive bowling experience being had by all, it will undoubtedly increase in popularity. We were told about the queueing system at busy periods where names are taken down and then phoned when a lane becomes available.

The drinks list is a little more comprehensive, too, with plans to offer bar snacks should there be a demand.

Either way, it seems that the modern Hanoian will continue to be bowled over as the sport gains in adulation and becomes a hot trend in the city.

The Stats H anoi S tar B owl

Opening times: 10am to 10pm Price (inc. shoe rental): VND30,000 per game Mon to Fri, VND35,000 on weekends before 5pm and VND45,000 on weekends after 5pm.

Lanes: 15 My score: 122 Experience: I enjoyed the old-school feel of the place and the beer was cold.

There’s something that is still special because it represents the history of bowling in Hanoi. Like a museum.

R oyal B owling : VMM R oyal C ity

Opening Times: 9.30am to 10pm Price (inc. shoe rental): VND35,000 Mon to Fri, VND50,000 weekends. They also offer lane rental for groups of up to seven — VND175,000 Mon to Fri, VND250,000 weekends. Prices are for an hour rental.

Lanes: 12 My score: 101 Experience: The bowling balls were much better although it didn’t show in my score.

Everything is still new resulting in pure bowling pleasure. The staff are friendly, speak good English and the drinks list is extensive, even mocktails make an appearance — perfect for a Sunday afternoon, alcohol-free chill out.

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MYSTERY DINER

Milan

Our undercover food reviewer goes to the InterContinental Westlake to find out if their Italian restaurant makes the grade.

Photos by Francis Roux

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otel restaurants are strange beasts. In theory a five-star environment with internationalstandard chefs coupled by top-end prices should result in quality cuisine. It doesn’t always work that way. I’ve had some inspiring meals in this country’s top-end properties — a number remain memorable. I’ve also been disappointed. From the special occasion seafood buffet that left me vowing never again to eat oysters through to the Michelin Chef wine dinner that went wrong, sometimes it just doesn’t click.

So, being asked to write a review of Milan, the Italian restaurant in the InterCon, I had one question in mind.

Would the fare here match the environment?

Authenticity There are a few things that irritate the complaintdisposed waiter. One of them is the arrival of an early customer. At opening time you’re still in set up mode, still trying to prepare for the onslaught to follow.

I arrived a few minutes before 6pm but was wellreceived — a real pleasure — the staff scuttling around to accommodate this ‘difficult’ customer who was determined to be in and out in 45 minutes.

Quickly I settled in, with home-cooked, rustic brown bread and dips for accompaniment. Despite the hotel synthetics typical of the InterCon, this is a nicely set-up dining space. Airy, spacious with framed food images on the walls and rusty effect copper floor tiles, the warm colours provide a nice backdrop to the two open kitchens and brick-built, wood-fired pizza oven that takes centre stage. Provided the dough, sauce and toppings are correct, with such facilities in place it is difficult to go wrong with an Italian-style pizza. So instead I opted for the chef’s speciality dishes that are supposed to emanate from Milan.

I’ve never been a fan of what has become known as

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International Italian. It’s fine if cooked at home — a Bolognese or a carbonara can work a treat. But if I eat out I prefer the real deal — after all if I dine at an Italian, I want to have the cuisine that is out of range of my own personal cooking prowess.

Topped with a semi-runny poached egg, my starter, the insalata Milano, had the feel of an Italian-style Caesar salad. Replete with bacon bits and parmesan, from the menu the dish was not what I was expecting — the Cos lettuce and the croutons should have been a giveaway. Nonetheless, although the croutons could have done with being freshly deep-fried, the crunch of the Cos, the texture of the egg and the perfectly cooked asparagus tips saved what could have been a disappointment. I’ve only been to Milan (the city) once, so how typical this dish is of the Italian industrial capital of the north is beyond me.

My other dish was also cited as a Milan speciality — the ravioli di pesce. Although slightly on the salty side, the dish was, for want of a better adjective, delicious.

I could eat it again and again. Served up with a thick garlic, chilli and fresh basil-based sauce, the ravioli came al dente, with lines of squid ink brushed onto the shell. A nice touch. Stuffed with a rich mash of onion, carrot, squid, crab, scallop and shrimp, this was an astonishingly tasty dish.

After two courses washed down by red wine, my stomach was already close to bursting, so I opted against a dessert. But there was enough here to make me want to return for a second and even a third visit. Prices, for the five-star environment, are also surprisingly reasonable. Most of the dishes are between VND200,000 and VND250,000, while the medium margharita is only VND150,000. Which suggests that the team behind this hotel Italian are trying to compete with the local market. And from my little taster, they’ve got all the ingredients to stage a good fight.

THE VERDICT

12 Food

15

Service

11

Décor

Food, Decor and Service are each rated on a scale of 0 to 15.

13 — 15 extraordinary to perfection 10 — 12.5 very good to excellent 8 — 9.5 good to very good 5 — 7.5 fair to good 0 — 4.5 poor to fair The Word reviews anonymously and pays for all meals

street snacker

Bun Dau Mam Tom Huyen Tran investigates the irresistible dish that smells as bad as it tastes good. Photos by Francis Roux

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irst, the fermented fish sauce is poured over boiling oil, mixed with a little sugar, vinegar and lemon or kumquat juice. Then it’s stirred until blended. That’s the way to enjoy fermented fish sauce, or mam tom.

Though mam tom is notorious for its strong smell and perennially listed among the worst-smelling foods in Asian cuisine, someone who gives it a chance will surely fall in love with it. If you’re looking for a comparison, think of durian. People who can’t stand its smell often think of it as both bad in smell and taste, whereas many others — really anyone who’s tried it once — can almost feel their mouths watering when just thinking of its aroma.

Mam tom is made of shrimps and salt.

The process of fermentation takes from six months to one year. Once fermented, this purple-coloured sauce can be served with a lot of vegetables, seafood and meat; however, it is especially famous with dog meat (thit cho) and of course, tofu and noodle — bun dau. This simple but tasty combo is getting more and more appealing among young people across the country.

Blue-collar Beginnings Bun dau mam tom is now one of the premiere Hanoi street food dishes. But years ago, it was considered a dish for blue-collar workers and street vendors.

“During Bao Cap [the post-war, ‘Subsidy Era’], this dish was called food for the poor,”

Huong, owner of Bun Dau Ngo Phat Loc, says. Her shop is one of the most famous traditional bun dau eateries in Hanoi. “At that time, people preferred a bowl of rice to rice noodle and tofu. I started selling bun dau as a peddler on Hang Be in 1987, just after Doi Moi [the ‘Renovation Era’, when Vietnam opened up to the world]. Bun dau then used to be served with cheap and quickly-roasted tofu. The rice noodle was rounded into small white cakes, and put onto la dong [an edible leaf]. Everything was spread on a round rattan tray.”

Right from the start, Huong knew it had potential. “The ingredients then were simple and cheap, but the taste was amazing.

What makes bun dau special [is] its main ingredients — mam tom, crispy tofu and herbs [rau thom], including Asian basil [rau hung] or cockscomb mint [kinh gioi] — have remained unchanged. Even now when people enjoy bun dau with a variety of meat, these main ingredients are still absolute musts.”

Trending Upwards Huong’s been in the business for years, and business is good. “From [our initial setup as] a street vendor at Hang Be to [our current] shop at 49 Phat Loc, we have seen a peak in customers [in the most] recent few years, a majority of whom are young and whitecollar. We even had many young customers from Saigon, who want to experience northern tastes.

“This trend has come along with additional kinds of meat, including fried minced pork with green rice flakes [cha com], thinly-sliced boiled pork trotter [thit luoc] and fried pork intestine [long ran]. Bun dau with cha com is a favourite among our young customers. It may be due to the sweet, soft and perfectly seasoned cha com. However, to me, it is best to have bun dau with thit luoc.

Steaming is the best way for the pork to retain its freshness and richness in taste.”

But even through its new iterations, the dish stays consistent thanks to the taste of the mam tom. “We have to select the best mam tom from Tinh Gia in Thanh Hoa Province,” Huong explains. “The tofu must be also carefully chosen from Mo village, the homeland of tofu. Heating and timing are very important, though. The tofu must be fried in deep oil, and continually turned over to get its crispy cover — but firm and soft inside.”

With autumn on its way, a plate of bun dau mam tom is a great choice for lunch.

Like any other bun dau eatery, Bun Dau Ngo Phat Loc will offer you bun dau with mam tom or normal fish sauce [nuoc mam]. Brave the smell and give it a try — you’re eating a piece of Hanoi when you do.

Bun Dau Ngo Phat Loc is located at 49 Phat Loc, Hoan Kiem. The eatery opens from 8.30am until 5.30pm. Bun dau prices range from VND20,000 without meat to VND60,000 with.

The eatery also has another stand at Quan An Ngon, 26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem

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overscenE

A Beautiful Sunny Day

Photos provided by Korean Cultural Centre Even the Hanoi storms didn’t stop the show at the Korean Cultural Centre last month, when 36 works by artist Nguyen Van Cuong were on display.

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Time for Dad

Photos provided by L’Espace An exhibition and book launch at L’Espace celebrated the launch of the book, A Father’s Day, by Nguyen Nhat Anh and Thai My Phuong

If you have a noteworthy event which you think would fit into our coverage, please email news@wordhanoi.com and we’ll take a look.

Fabulous Fabius

Photos provided by the Embassy of France French dignitary Laurent Fabius visited Hanoi in early August, and was taken on a tour of the citadel

Notting Hill Carnival

Photos by Bao Ngoc Skank the Tank brought a piece of the Notting Hill Carnival to ATK, with the sights, sounds and tastes of Caribbean culture taking centrestage

hanoi

BUSINE$$ * *

* *

From accounting to advertising to serviced apartments, our selection of some of the city's top businesses

Hanoi Websites hanoigrapevine. com

The place to go for all things related to the arts in a city that is developing its own, vibrant contemporary arts scene.

Has event calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses and contact details, and covers anything from classical music through to installations, rock concerts and more.

infosharehanoi. com

Provides the expat community with essential information for living and working in Hanoi including comprehensive and up-to-date events listings as well as address lists of galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing agencies, embassies and much more. Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.

linkhanoi.com

Event photos, a what’s on calendar, restaurant and bar listings and in fact, pretty much everything you want to know about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on this popular website. Also organize regular events and parties.

newhanoian.com

The city’s best known website, The New Hanoian provides usergenerated listings, reviews and event information on pretty much anything and everything in the capital. Register, create your profile, write a review and receive frequent newsletters.

wordhanoi.com

The online extension of The Word, contains both content from the print edition as well as blogs, events, news, a what’s on calendar, party photos and much more.

Also has downloadable PDF versions of the whole publication.

Accounting & Audit KPMG

46th Floor, 72 Building Keangnam Hanoi, Landmark Tower E6, Me Tri, Tel: (04) 3946 1600 kpmg.com/vn Worldwide firm specialising in auditing, accounting, tax and management consulting services. Also does executive search and selection.

PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS 16th floor, Keangnam Hanoi Landmark 72, Pham Hung Road, Tu Liem District Tel: (04) 3946 2246 pwc.com Provides business services including auditing, business and technology solutions and tax and legal consulting. Has more than ten years experience in Vietnam and works in all major industry sectors throughout the country.

business groups ICHAM

Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 2229 icham.org The Chamber has the main purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and to assist economic agents, as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic relations and cooperation among entrepreneurs of the various countries. The Chamber will not engage in commercial activities with the aim of producing profits.

CCIFV

Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 2229 ccifv.org A business group with over 240 members that supports the French business community in Vietnam by listening to their members’ needs and expectations.

Also promotes Vietnam to French companies and helps them in developing their businesses here.

EUROCHAM

G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 2228 eurochamvn.org A confederate organisation with strong ties to national business associations in its member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support for the business interests of European Union members in Vietnam.

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SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: (04) 4772 0833 sbav-hanoi.org An association that actively fosters business relations with other business communities while promoting social, cultural, recreational, educational and charitable activities.

Corporate Services Endo

79, Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3783 2085 endo.vn Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts, restaurants, hotels, golf courses, travel agencies and apparel shops. They also manufacture giftware from polos and hoodies to keychains, card holders and menu covers.

Education British Vietnam International School (BVIS)

H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom Village, Long Bien Tel: (04) 3946 0435 bvisvietnam.com BVIS Hanoi offers British standard education from pre-kindergarten to Grade 12. Provides a creative learning environment with modern facilities and resources combined with well-rounded bilingual curricula. Highly qualified educators teach Cambridge AS/A Levels qualifications.

British University Vietnam (BUV)

193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3974 3596 buv.edu.vn The first university in Vietnam to offer degrees awarded by Staffordshire University and University of London, BUV provides excellent higher education at an affordable price. Offers courses ranging from Management to Accounting. Various scholarships are available.

CB RICHARD ELLIS (VIETNAM) CO., LTD

6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 2220 0220 cbrevietnam.com Finding the perfect accommodation to meet your various demands in Hanoi is made simple thanks to CBRE’s residential leasing team. Our services are

inclusive of site finding, travelling fees, contract negotiation and resolving any other issues which arise during the term of the lease, all of which are free of charge for the tenant.

COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM Capital Tower, 10th Floor, 109 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3941 3277 colliersmn.com/vietnam Represent property investors, developers and occupiers in all matters related to commercial and residential property. Services include leasing and sales, valuation and research, property management and support services.

Attempt to accelerate the success of their clients by making their knowledge your property.

CREATION

Room 802, Building 101, 101 Lang Ha, Dong Da Tel: (04) 2246 2232 A real estate company that provides both private and commercial properties for sale, lease and rent. Also offers free brokerage and many other support services.

DALUVA HOME

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com Thoughtfully appointed and decorated, Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom for true rest, plus open living, dining, and work areas.

Extras include two LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio. Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also included. Private car and tour booking service available.

International School of Vietnam

6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong, Hoang Mai Tel: 3540 9183 www.isvietnam.org The International School of Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to Grade 12 school serving the international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts students of any nationality aged 3 and up. ISV offers an international education experience. Highly qualified and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century campus with the latest in educational technology plus excellent resources for learning. Class sizes are small.

SAVILLS VIETNAM

6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3946 1300 savills.com.vn A leading global real estate service provider listed on the London Stock Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide. Provides consultancy services, property management, space planning, facilities management, corporate real estate services, leasing, valuation and sales to the key segments of commercial, industrial, retail, residential and investment property.

insurance AIG

Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3936 1455 aig.com.vn Offers a range of insurance products and services including property, casualty and marine exposure insurance. Also has comprehensive travel and accident coverage, as well as healthcare packages for expats residing in Vietnam.

IF CONSULTING

CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3936 5370 Emergency: 0903 732365 insuranceinvietnam.com Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has been operational in Vietnam since 1994 and offers free advice and comparative quotes.

international schools CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HANOI

CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878 concordiahanoi.org International brand, Concordia, has highly performing schools in both Hong Kong and Shanghai at the top tier of the educational system. All instructors and teachers are native English speakers and admission applications are accepted throughout the year.

HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh hisvietnam.com With schooling available for students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is one of the few private, international education options in the capi-

tal. The institution offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for students at the secondary level. Located near the Japanese Embassy.

QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF HANOI

#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6418 hanoi.qsi.org With nearly four decades of experience in international education, QSI International School of Hanoi is next in the long line of ‘quality schools’ that have been established by the Quality Schools International. The institution specialises in instructing pre-school and lower elementary age students.

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (SIS)

2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: 3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel: 3795 1036 www,kinderworld.net/sis SIS provides international education for students from Primary up to University Foundation Programme. A strong curriculum combines the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and Vietnamese curricula, all taught by qualified teachers. Runs various co-curricula activities and prepares students for internationally recognised qualifications: iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE & AS/A Level, GAC

KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL KINDERGARTEN

Unit 9 – 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743 0360 3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 7243 kinderworld.net Classes are kept small with a foreign teacher leading the class with the assistance of a Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student ratio.

KinderWorld provides pre school education for children from 18 months to below 6 years.

hanoi UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (UNIS)

Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551 unishanoi.org With more than 800 students from 50 different countries, UNIS is a nonprofit IB World School that instructs students from as young as three years old through to grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies representing the United Nations, the pristine campus has a broad range of facilities and is located in the gated community of Ciputra.

language schools APOLLO

67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3943 2051 Apollo.edu.vn Established in 1994, Apollo offers high-quality and cost-effective English language classes including general English, English for teens, English for business communication and a pronunciation clinic. One of the country’s leading language centres.

BRITISH COUNCIL

20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3728 1922 britishcouncil.org The cultural arm of the British government’s presence in Vietnam, the BC offers a variety of English language courses – business writing, corporate training and general English – in a large learning centre close to West Lake.

LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3927 3399 languagelink.edu.vn With four schools around Hanoi, Language Link runs international English language courses endorsed by Cambridge University. One of the top language centres in the capital.

legal services BAKER & MCKENZIE

Unit 1001, 10th Floor, Indochina Plaza Hanoi, 241 Xuan Thuy, Cau Glay Tel: (04) 3825 1428 bakernet.com One of the first international law firms to establish representative offices in Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide on-the-ground liaison and support services to clients interested in investigating, negotiating and implementing projects in the country.

management training G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3762 3805 ghmsglobal.com A 100% foreign-invested company focusing on management services and consulting with in-house programs to meet the particular

requirements of its clients.

Offers teambuilding and academic-based business and management programmes.

RMIT

Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3726 1460 rmit.edu.vn A leading international provider of skills training and professional staff development, RMIT offers both short and long-term courses, customised courses, and can provide for either on or off-campus clients.

Known for its Business MBA which is open to both Vietnamese and overseas students.

market research CIMIGO

142 Le Duan, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3518 6696 vietnam@cimigo.com cimigolive.com Independent marketing and brand research specialist operating in Hanoi and the Asia Pacific region in general. Services include auditing and optimising research programs, knowledge management, developing marketing plans and business models, and assessing market opportunities.

relocation & tracking agents ALLIED PICKFORDS

Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan Huong Tel: (04) 3943 1511 vn.alliedpickfords.com The international home moving company helps make the burden of moving a lot easier. As the largest home moving company in the world, Allied Pickfords moves over 1,000 families in over 175 countries every day. Available with a full range of services — domestic moves, office moves and storage — whether you are moving within Vietnam or across the world.

Asian Tigers Transpo

Inland Customs Deport Area (ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh, Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882 Asiantigergroup.com Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of moving households without disruption ti family life.

They also offer pre-move advice regarding customs and shipping.

JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04)3826 0334 jvkasia.com Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods, JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 0805 santaferelo.com

With over 150 offices around the world, Santa Fe offers local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including home search, orientation, cultural training, immigration services and records management.

For more information email info@santaferelo.com.vn.

serviced apartments ATLANTA RESIDENCES

49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0912 239085 atlanta.com.vn Atlanta Residences fully serviced apartments have been created to provide a space where you can ‘feel at home’. Within walking distance from Hanoi’s Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this building offers a panel of 51 spacious apartments for you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer the luxury of a hotel mixed with the peaceful comfort and privacy of your home, under one roof of course.

DALUVA HOME

33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com Whether traveling or on a temporary stay, Daluva can provide space & comfort.

Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and an open living area that opens up to a terrace with plants.

FRASER SUITES

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3719 8877 hanoi.frasershospitality.com Great location in Syrena Tower on West Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil repose from the busy city. Has several apartments with excellent views and provides gold-standard service.

SEDONA SUITES

No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 0888 sedonahotels.com.sg 175 well-designed, furnished apartments and villas combining the comforts of home with the conveniences of a fine hotel.

SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3934 2342 somerset.com Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments, car park, 24-hour reception and central location.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

September 2013 Word | 155

hanoi

BARS

TOPOFTHE

DROPS

Drink and be done by, or as the t-shirt tells us, khong say, khong ve. Our pick of the best drinking haunts in Hanoi Think we've missed somewhere? Email us on editor@wordvietnam.com

Bars & Nightclubs 88 LOUNGE

Contemporary Wine Bar 88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho Tel: (04) 3718 8029 5pm to late 88group.vn A wine bar with a difference, this addition to the watering hole scene in West Lake mixes contemporary design, black ceilings, subtle lighting and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine lists in town. Not surprisingly it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.

CAMA ATK

MUSIC & ARTS BAR 73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 01262 054970 Wednesday to Saturday, 6pm to midnight With well-poured drinks, a foosball table, no smoking and a midnight closing time, CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to be — and that’s refreshing. The space is a part time venue for smaller acts and DJs. The venue is hip, comfortable and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable place to pull up a stool and take pulls in a relaxed haven.

CHEEKY QUARTER

LATE NIGHT LOCAL 1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0904 032829 8pm to late Last building on the right before Hang Buom, this popular with the French (and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small, cosy and personal with funky twists – and an awesome logo. Spread over two floors with good tunes, drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till late. Also does tasty paninis into the early hours.

DRAGONFLY

DANCEHALL LOUNGE 15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 4926 2177 11am — late One of the better venues in the Old Quarter for dancing on the weekends. Although crammed into a small space, cheap drinks and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly the regular goto for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident looking to get up on the dance floor. If you don’t feel like dancing, relax upstairs with shisha and friends with one of the two lounges on the second floor.

The sister venue on Phung

Hung has a bigger menu and an earlier opening hour (11am instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the shisha, pool table and dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.

Chime Bar

Level 1, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 restaurant.hanoi@sheraton.com sheraton.com/hanoi Chime bar is the perfect spot for a refreshing glass of wine and a bite to eat. Offering a wide selection of tapas dishes in a lounge atmosphere, this is a great space to unwind, while listening to some soothing jazz to wash your blues away.

FATCAT BAR

DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT 25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 5333 6087 linkhanoi.com 4pm to late Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a small establishment from the minds behind the party and event organisers, LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk as well as a small loft area for lounging. Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a DJ on the decks make up the mix.

FUNKY BUDDHA

ELECTRO LOUNGE 2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3292 7614 8pm to late Owned by the people behind Face Club, the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a VIP room situated in a larger club, only it’s not.

While techno and trance are the genre’s of choice spun in the establishment by live DJs, patrons treat the space more like a lounge than a dancehall and typically order bottle service and cocktails. One of the Ta Hien mainstays.

HAIR OF THE DOG

LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE 32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0947 893232 10am to late In the same building as the old Bucket Bar, Hair of the Dog, the first floor offers a large drinking space, graph-

156 | Word September 2013

ic artwork, sidewalk seating and a dance floor. Up the spiral staircase, there’s the late-night bar and shisha lounge complete with beanbags. Drawing in a mix of expats, backpackers and locals, when the bars across the street shut down, the mayhem continues in ‘The Dog’.

HALF MAN HALF NOODLE

LATE DIVE BAR 62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1943 3pm to late Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy, “The Noodle” is still a hit with long term residents. With its all-hour eating options — ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to grilled cod and bun cha — and its popular happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still up there with the options. Between 11pm and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000 and mixers go for VND30,000.

Friendly staff and talkative patrons included.

HANOI ROCK CITY

LIVE MUSIC VENUE 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 01633 166170 hanoirockcity.com 5pm to midnight With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an upstairs space dedicated to live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the capital of its kind. Has weekly live events featuring bands both from Vietnam and overseas — established and up and coming. Email jimihendrix@ hanoirockcity.com for more information or check out their page on Facebook.

HOUSE OF SON TINH

LIQUOR LOUNGE 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6377 sontinh.com 8am to 11.30pm As part of the Highway 4 group, which now has its offices in the establishment’s upstairs areas, this barcum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnishings is famed for its luxurious rice wine liquors and newly created cocktail class. Does regular events on the first floor and also has a creative Vietnamese food menu based on cuisine sold at other restaurants in the chain.

IRISH WOLFHOUND

IRISH PUB 4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821 irishwolfhoundpub.com

8am to 2am The open-air watering hole with seating on the pavement is a great spot to enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at anytime, day or night. What it lacks in gaudy decorations, it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and billiards on the third floor. Has a decent food menu and even better pizzas.

LA FÉE VERTE

FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 6282 5555 Hoteldelopera.com 7am to 2am Meaning the green fairy — an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam — understated lighting, a laidback lounge atmosphere, a good music selection and ultra-contemporary interior design make up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel de l’Opera. Expect a good selection of creative cocktails and an extensive wine list. Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.

Late Delivery Service (LSD)

Tel: (04) 6290 7907 lsd.vn The only beverage delivery service in Hanoi operating throughout the night (6pm to 4 am). This unique delivery service runs every day and offers a wide variety of spirits, beers and other non –alcoholic drinks for you ro order from your home. Affordable prices with delivery available withing the six main districts of the city.

Product origin and quality guaranteed.

MODEL CLUB

CATWALK BAR 45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung 8pm to late Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and nightly model shows. This venue is largely filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters or older business types flashing their wads. Bottle service is a must, which is a little pricey, so if you ain’t got enough money then you probably won’t be sticking around to see the honeys.

POLITE PUB

LONG BAR 5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3825 0959 5pm to 2am

A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals and expats who find solace in the nightly conversations at the long bar, billiards and live football matches.

RED RIVER TEA ROOM

LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE 25 Duong Ven Tay Ho, Tay Ho Monday to Friday, 2pm to 11.30pm. Weekends open from 11am Located on the lakeside road just below Xuan Dieu and close to the entrance to The Sheraton, this quiet, casual pub offers up a variety of beer, wine and mixed drinks, juice, tea, Nespresso coffee and espresso and milkshakes, all with a nice view of West Lake. Nonsmoking indoors, Red River

SPY BAR

HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH 12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 2269 1107 Fronted by the affable Sean, and with Guinness, Jameson’s and a surprising amount of draught beer flowing from the taps, since its inauguration the tiny Spy Bar has managed to create a dedicated following despite its tiny size. With pictures of spies dotting the wall (both Vietnamese and international) and food delivery available from three restaurants, this is a great place to chill and shoot some welldeserved, Chuong Duong Bridge breeze.

SUMMIT LOUNGE

ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR 20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888 ext. 5314 4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday, 4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday While there are a few ‘rooftop bars’ in the capital, few hold a candle to the view on offer at the Summit Lounge.

With a chilled but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails, and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu, the Summit Lounge is a great place to pitch yourself above the madness and peer down at the chaos below in peace.

Sunsets are particularly special.

TAY TAP

MEET-UP SPOT 100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6917

4pm to late Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar with two beers on tap — as well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the shelves — this newcomer venue has a grill menu catering to the tastes of both East and West. For those in search of a good old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese, you’ll be glad to know the kitchen is stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.

THE SPOT

LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE 47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1874 8am to midnight A stone’s throw from Ta Hien, this bar-cum-loungecum-restaurant has all of the atmosphere present in bars scattered throughout the Old Quarter without being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos or a Vietnamese staple starter with the occasional live DJ breaking out classic funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable furnishings or on the back patio.

TRACY’S GRILL

PUB

AND

SPORTS BAR/GRILL 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: (04) 6675 9838 tracyspub.com 11am to 12am This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetually crowded with regulars drinking out front on plastic stools. Notorious for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order, Tracy’s is most famous for their draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a frosted mug. For those missing their dose of North American sports, they play all day via satellite on two plasmas.

TUNNEL BAR

INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0936 063303 tunnel-bar-hanoi.com 4pm to late Slim but stylish two-storey bar located just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friendly staff can make a range of well-made and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights and parties are commonplace at this watering hole that caters to both foreign and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy hour with specials on Ricard.

Lounge FUSE BAR

11th Floor, Hanoitourist Building, 18 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0968 385555 One of the city’s top-end nightclubs, FUSE has been dominating the social scene with its vast selection of imported liquor, top-end service and live music. Hosts monthly parties and social events.

CAFES

If there's any industry where Hanoi excels, it's the industry that is all things coffee. Here is our list of some of the best places to drink coffee, tea and everything else non-alcoholic in this city.

Cafes Ciao Café

RESTO LOUNGE 2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 1494 7am to 11pm A stone’s throw from the shores of Hoan Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries it’s hand with a variety of different western dishes at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the establishment is a great place to squash a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.

COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE 28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3715 4240 coffeebean.com 7am to 10pm Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi coffee scene has opened a little closer to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall.

Famous for the exceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a multilevel, indoor/ outdoor café overlooking Westlake. With its LA coffee and office feel, when you walk in you might just forget that you’re in Westlake.

CONG CAPHE

LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE 152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung; 32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 2247 0602 8am to 10pm With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with beans from the Central Highlands, knock back one of the many different types of tea available or sip on freshly squeezed juice from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest cafes on ‘cafe street’. If you like pre-doi moi nostalgia, here is the place to go.

And if you like more space and an outdoor terrace, hit Cong Caphe take two on Dien Bien Phu.

HIGHLANDS COFFEE

CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN 5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem

Tel: (04) 3936 3228 highlandscoffee.com.vn 7am to 11pm As with any chain that attempts self-replication, there is a tried and tested formula. At Highlands it is comfortable seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music and a mid-range, generic atmosphere. It works, too.

The Starbucks of Vietnam, a French-influenced, international and pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.

Joma Bakery Cafe

COFFEE/BAKERY 222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3747 3388; 43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6071 joma.biz 7am to 9pm With two branches, Joma has brought a little slice of ‘home’ to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the counter-style service and atmosphere. The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads, soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009. Joma contributes 2 percent of each sale to charitable organisations.

KINH DO

PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE 252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3825 0216 7am – 8pm A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chi’s long-standing patisserie is somewhat famous for its honest, homecooked food, no frills-butrelaxing environment and sour yoghurt fit for celebrities — Catherine Deneuve ate here daily during her time shooting Indochine.

Hot fresh milk, exclusive coffee, awesome croque madames and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in, take away, the pastries are great and the price is always right.

MOCA CAFE

CAFE / INTERNATIONAL 14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem (04) 3825 6334 8am to 10pm Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly location gives Moca a large amount of guidebook-driven clientele. But don’t let this put you off. The faded

but charmingly run down French-styled retro interior, good WiFi and some of the best coffee in town makes this a great spot to while away a couple of hours. The food menu mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches, western and pan-Asian mains.

PARIS DELI

CAFÉ / BOULANGERIE 6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 5269 7.30am to 11pm Time has been good to this airy, bistro-style café and patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital, despite its prime location prices remain reasonable — espresso-style coffees cost around VND40,000 — and the cakes and croissants are moreish. Also does filled baguettes and a larger cafécum-restaurant menu. Has a second establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.

SAINT HONORE

focaccia through to pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.

TET Décor Café

Art Café & Espresso Bar Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay Ho Tet-lifestyle-collection.com 8am to 5pm, Tuesday to Sunday Cloistered among the back streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan Dieu, TET Décor Café is a destination for those who appreciate life’s pleasures: coffee, food, art and music. Simple and unpretentious, the café has an old-fashioned warmth and rustic feel combined with unique and inspiring art installations.

THE CART

SANDWICH SHOP/CAFÉ 18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street behind Au Trieu) 8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 39382513 thecartfood.com

hanoi 7:30am – 5pm Small a cozy café hidden on the quietest of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-windowed coffee shops you expect to see in Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty baguettes, homemade juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery service is quick and reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you need to eat at the desk.

THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE (THBC)

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn 9am to 10pm Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is not just a place for all bicycle lovers, but a café that also sells Spanish tapas served up with gin & tonic, if the mood so takes you. Organising bicycle tours, running yoga sessions and holding music concerts in their upstairs cafe area, they also sell, rent and fix bikes and are an official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment. Eclectic? Not a chance!

THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB 6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 2117 8am to 11pm Situated on one of the qui-

eter Old Quarter streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi Social Club is a cozy midsize café/restaurant where you can forget the heat and bustle of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and you can imagine, for a second, that you’re sitting in a European café. The food is fresh and internationally inspired, and the design is complimented by the work of Tadioto’s Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the coffee here is said to be up there with the best in the country.

Twitter Beans Coffee

45B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 0760 twitterbeanscoffee.com With its modern and stylish décor, Twitter Beans attracts customers from all corners of Hanoi thanks to its diverse collection of 100 percent pure, roasted coffee, ranging from Arabica to reduced-caffeine coffee.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

CAFE / BOULANGERIE 5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3933 2355 st.honorehn@gmail.com 7am to 10pm Decked out in maroon, dark browns and cream, this cafe and French-style boulangerie is best visited in the morning when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk through the door.

Serving all day long, the downstairs space is split into the bakery on one side with a small non-smoking dining space on the other.

The homely upstairs lounge area has standard tables as well as sofa seating. Simple but tasty French and international fare is served at meal times.

SEGAFREDO

ITALIAN CAFE 36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 0212 segafredo.com.vn 7am to 11pm Names of some of the world’s greatest cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of the best espresso-based coffee in town. Red and white decor, lifestyle black and white coffee drinking images and an open plan space make up the mix. Besides the caffeine-based drinks, also does granita, teas, shakes and modern Italian fare ranging from panini and

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hanoi

EAT

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants

French CAFE DE PARIS

FRENCH BISTRO 12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327 cafedeparis-hanoi.com 8am to 11pm Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron backed chairs and wall-hung black and white photography, there is something decidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is also a selection of classic but unpretentious French mains. Has a daily specials board and a decent range of pizzas.

GREEN TANGERINE

48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3825 1286 greentangerinehanoi.com 10am to 11pm daily A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets you as you walk into this French era-built villa that houses the main section of this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine, blended in with Vietnamese ingredients and cooking styles, the resultant fare has had customers coming back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids menu is also available, as is a wine list focusing mainly on French wines.

LA BADIANE

10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3942 4509 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed Sunday night.

A white-washed, colonial era villa replete with period wooden shutters greets you as you enter this contemporary French restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or take to the leafy covered terrace out back with its walls lined with art and photography from 21st century Hanoi.

The menu here mixes modern Gallic cuisine with

a touch of Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an extensive wine list and an excellent, well-priced three-course lunch menu.

LA VERTICALE

19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3944 6317 verticale-hanoi.com 11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm Situated in an art-deco villa that was once owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this establishment is now owned and run by perhaps the most famous French chef in the country. With modestly priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on the dishes, which primarily come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up market establishment lures in its high class customers with quality Vietnamese-French fusion cuisine.

LE BEAULIEU

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3826 6919 6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 10.30pm Classic French Indochine décor and subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole Legend’s signature restaurant an elegance rarely found in Vietnam’s capital.

The a la carte menu pits classic French cuisine against contemporary Vietnamese cooking with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal tenderloin on a lemongrass skewer and the calisson parfait marinated with orange, pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive wine list.

MILLENIUM

PAN-FRENCH 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207 10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm Clean and fresh with a fine-dining vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the minimal and chic result of a Café Des Arts makeover.

The street’s new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking goes over two

NAMASTE HANOI

THE LOFT STOP CAFÉ

FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES 11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3828 7207 8am to 11pm Situated on Hanoi’s notso-serene ‘Pub Street’, Stop sponges up the surrounding atmosphere, which gives the French delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids pretension. The spot specialises in serving a mixture of western, French and Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes and juice. The venue is more affordable then it’s sister location upstairs, Café de Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble on some quiche and quaff a juice on a sunny day.

indian FOODSHOP 45

INTERNATIONAL INDIAN 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3716 2959 32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3993 1399 10am to 10.30pm Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history that screams empathy make this eatery one of the most popular Indians in town. Selling an international version of the mighty curry — they even sell pork and beef here — the menu keeps to the northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza, korma and the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a good range of breads and tandoor-cooked kebabs.

Khazaana

11 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 5657 khazaana.vn Established in 1993, Khazaana remains the first Indian restaurant in Hanoi to offer traditional Indian cuisine. Serving authentic Indian dishes filled with aromatic spices. Khazaana truly brings a taste of India to Hanoi. A typical meal costs from VND250,000

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158 | Word September 2013

toVND 500,000. Provides a vegetarian menu.

floors and has a welcome and inviting three-level outdoor terrace high up amid the concrete and cables of the Old Quarter.

47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3935 2400 namastehanoi.com 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm The latest newcomer to the Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in dishes from both northern and southern India — using Halal meat throughout.

A meal will cost you between VND150,000 and VND300,000 and everything is there, from curries and breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or out with a free delivery

SPICE

CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3926 0580 Located in the upstairs portion of its sister restaurant, Tamarind, Spice is an impressive extension to the Indian food choices in the city, providing quality non-vegetarian dishes and a comfortable seating area.

Includes lounge seating and a colourful dining area with thoughtful artwork and photographs along its walls. Spice is a tropical, artistic, cultural, and attractive addition to the Old Quarter’s dining options.

Specializes in seafood and classic Indian dishes.

TANDOOR

24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem.

Tel: (04) 3824 5359 11am to 10.30pm A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth aircon area with a more casual dining and bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs served from an authentic tandoor oven as well as the full range of mainly North Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon and does excellent set lunches.

international AL FRESCO’S

AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL 19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 1155

98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3719 5322 alfrescogroup.com 8.30am to 11pm With a real ‘diner’ kind of feel, Al Fresco’s serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired food from a number of locations across the city including their original restaurant at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with generous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers, Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less. The set business lunch is three courses for VND155,000. See the website for delivery numbers and don’t forget to ask for delivery deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but make sure you ask for knives and forks.

AU LAC DO BRAZIL

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3845 5224 aulacdobrazil.com 11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach. In typical Brazilian rodízio fashion, waiters bring cuts of meat to the table for patrons to pick and choose, all for a set price. They also offer wine pairings, a salad bar and an a la carte menu, with a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas on hand to wash it all down. The prices aren’t for anyone on a budget, but the amount and quality of meat is more than worth cost.

CAFÉ 129

MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3821 5342 7.30am to 9.30pm Service at this “slow food café” is seriously snail paced, but that is part of the charm of this modest eatery with only a few tables and small stools.

Popular as a weekend hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs with cheese, the café is best known for its not-quite Mexican food.

But hey, when there’s guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and cheese, what

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can go wrong? Be sure to try the fresh juices, like the super-booster with beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.

CAFÉ LAUTREC

MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL Hotel de l’Opera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 6282 5555 6am to 10pm Featuring both à-la-carte and buffet dining as well as an innovative Sunday brunch, this namesake of the French artist ToulouseLautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture of international and Mediterraneanstyle fare. Has an extensive wine list to match the cuisine, which is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired environment.

DON’S TAY HO

CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN 16 Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3719 3719 Dons-bistro.com Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends 8am to late A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer, oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in one, this lakefacing venue is the work of charismatic Canadian restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.

Focusing on comfort food done well, the main restaurant menu includes anything from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg pasta served with crushed roasted garlic and manchego.

Does an excellent range of imported oysters and has an extensive wine list.

EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE

99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6991 elgaucho.com.vn 4pm to late This welcomed eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with great service in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three floors. Already with

two venues in Saigon — one near the Opera House and the other in Saigon South — the essence of this popular chain is quality top grade meats off the grill.

Steak is the mainstay, but everything from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs. Add to this a backdrop of low Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list and that’s another reason to head to El Gaucho.

GREEN MANGO

WESTERN / VIETNAMESE 18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3928 9916 greenmango.vn 7.30am to 11.30pm Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school, and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green Mango serves Vietnamese and western food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to 6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With comfy seats and a soft setting, the function room at the back often hosts charity events and semi-formal get-togethers.

HALIA HANOI

SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL Pacific Place, 29 Xuan Dieu, Ty Ho Tel: (04) 3946 0121 Thehalia.com Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm. Closed on Sundays A secluded courtyard in the heart of Pacific Place plays host to one of the capital’s best restaurants. A two-floored venue split into a downstairs tapas and bar area,with a refined dining space located on the level above, the menu includes Singaporean specialities such as the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light Asian flavours is also on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet mirin making an appearance. Has an extensive wine list.

HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD GRILL

Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3719 9000 sheraton.com/hanoi 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to 10pm The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.

Choose from Black Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye, Rump and Tenderloin grilled to perfection. Prefer Seafood – no problem, Lobster, Oysters, Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all available for your dining pleasure, as well as an impressive array of wines by the glass & bottle from our

HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT – SONG THU

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 34 Rue Chau Long, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3942 4448 hoasuaschool.com Open from 7am to 10pm This restaurant, which schools and employs disadvantaged youths, has been popular for 11 years — as a grand villa and courtyard setting tucked away in the corner of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types, tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good food while supporting a good cause, mains like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000

and VND289,000 respectively, and there are six set menus available which take in Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.

JACKSON’S STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 8388 alfrescogroup.com 9.30am to midnight Then newest venture from the team behind Jaspa’s and Pepperoni’s is an allday eating and drinking lounge fit for all occasions. It has three floors for different vibes – lounge bar, restaurant and “boardroom” – but fine imported steads can be found on each, as well as seafood and a huge wine list. A popular venue.

JASPA’S

INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 8325 alfrescosgroup.com 6.30am to midnight Recently refurbished, the Australianinfluenced Jaspa’s is known for its attentive service, tasty food and large portions. A place with something for everyone, it has proved itself to be popular with both the western and Asian expat communities who come back again and again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion of western and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is mainly New World. Also has a spacious bar and lounge area that stays open late for all the live sport.

KITCHEN

INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE 7A, 40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3719 2679 hungskitchen@gmail.com 7am to 9pm Despite a two-storey indoor dining space, Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracottatiled terrace out front, a great space for eating the decent breakfasts (check out the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled sandwiches and the selection of international salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks. Has amiable know-your-name staff and a good delivery service.

KOTO ON VAN MIEU

RESTAURANT / CAFÉ / BAR 59 Van Mieu, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3747 0337 koto.com.au Monday: 7.00am to 4pm; Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to 9.30pm All profit is invested back into the cause at Koto, which is a school and workplace for disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of a visible and frenetic kitchen and is served over four big floors of restaurant space. It’s cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.

LA RESTAURANT

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3928 8933 8am to 10pm The complimentary warm bread with rosemary is reason enough to visit this homely spot featuring hearty lentil and black bean soups, along with a range of

international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with chilli and mushrooms. We aren’t quite sure why the Miele Guide nominated it as one of Asia’s finest restaurants as service is lackadaisical and tables could use candles to improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately tasty dishes more than make up for any quips.

LA SALSA

IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN 25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3828 9052 8am to 11pm A small but eternally popular Spanishthemed café and bar with an extensive list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available, as well as full courses such as veal, and duck with currant sauce. Known for its good, European-style coffee and fantastic first-floor terrace area with views over the cathedral. Western staff speak English and French.

LITTLE HANOI

VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL 21 – 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3828 5333 7:30am — 11:00pm A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too, Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has been going sturdy since 1994 — mainly for its central location, range of sandwiches, pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes go from VND95,000 and mango salads VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the walls and jazz in the background, Little Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of the central lake.

MATCHBOX

INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE 40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3734 3098 11am to 11pm Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Museum, this classy restaurant and wine bar mixes attractive décor with western cuisine, all cooked up by a New Zealandtrained Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.

MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE

PAN-CHINESE Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3831 3333 fortuna.vn 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm Elegant and luxurious, May Man has long been regarded as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi. Showcasing a selection of authentic Chinese culinary delights and Yum Cha at its finest, with seven private dining rooms this is a place to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim sum menus and set menus.

Reservations recommended.

MING PALACE

PAN-CHINESE Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3823 8888 11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm A fine dining destination at the Sofitel Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese cuisine in a sleek modern setting with private dining rooms. With more than 80 dim sum selections available along with Chinese entrees, Ming’s is an ideal eatery for those hungry for higher end Chinese fare.

hanoi * * * TOP 100

Want to know the best places to eat or drink in this city? Here is our pick of the top 100 restaurants in Hanoi. Feel we're missing something or have included the wrong places? Simply email editor@wordvietnam.com

NINETEEN 11

INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3933 4801 nineteen11.com.vn 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm Named after the completion date of the Opera House under which it is located, walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, bare-brick wall hallway leads you through to the main dining area. With dark browns, deep yellow tablecloths and a refined ambience aided by background classical music, the menu takes in western, panAsian and seafood fare and even has its own section dedicated entirely to foie gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden space next to Highlands Coffee.

PRESS CLUB

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 0888 hanoi-pressclub.com 11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday lunch Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but subtle colours pervade this traditional but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater venue close to the Opera House.

Serving up quality cuisine for over a decade, Press Club boasts a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine room, a library and a vast selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four excellent wine pairing menus, put together through the aid of the Press Club’s extensive new and old world wine list.

Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.

mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also has a good range of Tex-Mex fare, a number of panAsian dishes and a decent delivery service.

TAMARIND

CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN 80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3926 0580 5.30am to 10.30pm Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesn’t focus on faux meat, Tamarind features a wide range of juices and shakes in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere.

Breakfast is served all day and with Asian favourites, like vegetarian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle salad, along with some falafel and western influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike will find something to try on this menu.

THE BISTRO

FRENCH FLAIR 2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3726 4782 thebistro.com.vn 7.30am to 9pm A modern eatery offering western cuisine with shades of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink and food deals and a warm indoor atmosphere — you know, just how the French do it.

Zenith Yoga Studio II & Café

16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3923 0253 Besides offering a range of yoga, pilates and tai chi classes, Zenith sports a café with fresh, healthy and daily homemade food. Serves up vegetarian, vegan, raw cuisine, fresh juice and delicious smoothies.

italian

PROVECHO

TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL 18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: 0912223966 The successor of My Burger My, this American-run, self-styled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style, chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000 with a range of additional toppings including jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon,

ANGELINA

CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3826 6919 11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late (restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar) There are only two truly top-end, contemporary Italians in Vietnam and Angelina claims pride of place in this elite group. This doesn’t mean that prices here are off limits — take

a similar eatery in Europe and here you are paying a third, which all makes a meal here a special affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the pastas are all home made, the pizzas are wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled. Does a great three-course set lunch for VND520,000++.

DA PAOLO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6317 11am to 11pm This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to the famed lawn chair and coconut café on West Lake has all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long time former manager of Luna D’Autunno, it features scrumptious woodfired oven pizzas from VND120,000 and other Italian delicacies. Open every day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.

LUNO D’AUTUNNO

CLASSIC ITALIAN 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem.

Tel: (04) 3823 7338 11am to 11pm This old-favourite Italian restaurant has been going for 10 years. It uses traditional wood ovens to prepare some of the city’s finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000 to build-your-own-skies-thelimit. Set inside a large, thoughtful space with over 35 covers and an outside courtyard, seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas, soups and cheeses — the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly photo exhibitions and opera nights make it well worth a visit, as does the large wine list and choice of desserts.

MEDITERRANEO

PAN-ITALIAN 23 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3826 6288 10am to 11pm This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral serves all the traditional Italian fare you could need — homemade mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups, salads and fish.

Throw in an extensive wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and a balcony spot looking over Hanoi’s trendy café scene and you’re onto a winner.

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PANE E VINO

PAN-ITALIAN 3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3826 9080 8am to 10.30pm Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic Italian food and has done for as long as anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large variety of pasta and salad dishes — look forward to fine food done well at this eatery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.

Japanese & Korean Asahi Sushi

288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3974 5945 asahisushi.vn Authentic Japanese restaurant with most of the ingredients and produce imported from Japan. Dishes range from VND50,000 to VND300,000 for their sushi and sashimi, grill dishes start from around VND500,000. Has a good delivery service.

KY Y

JAPANESE RICE EATERY 166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3978 1386 11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm, closed Sunday Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake and the staff will put your name on it and keep it until next time. Dine at the downstairs bar or in one of the private rooms with sliding doors for an authentic Japanese experience.

Although Ky Y specialises in rice-style working man’s fare, it’s hard to go wrong with anything on the menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial crowd pleasers.

Singaporean RASA SINGAPURA

SINGAPORE PERANAKAN CUISINE 63 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 2992 rasasingapura-hanoi.com 5pm to midnight By the shores of Truc Bach Lake is the newly opened Singapore Peranakan Res-

taurant with its authentic, Straits fusion fare emanating from Singapore, Malacca and Penang. Boasting the mouthwatering nasi lemak as its signature dish, all the fare here is home-cooked by the owner / partner who spent five years living and studying in Singapore. This is tasty, home-cooked, well-priced fare in a pleasant but tranquil setting.

Vietnamese Club Opera Novel

17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3972 8001 Located in the heart of the city, this airy and spacious restaurant has a relaxed, high-end atmosphere thanks to historical décor from the French era. Serves traditional Vietnamese dishes with a twist. Has an extensive wine selection.

HIGHWAY 4

VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC 5 Hang Tre, hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3926 4200 575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3771 6372 54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3796 2647 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3926 0639 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6377 10am to midnight Always busy, often hectic, this multi-floored restaurant is for diners who don’t mind loud noises and sitting on the floor. It’s best for groups so you can order an array of dishes ranging from the more exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls, papaya salad and fried tofu. But it’s the exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines that can be taken as shots or mixed into cocktails that keep this place crowded.

OLD HANOI

GOURMET VIETNAMESE 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3747 8337 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at this restaurant in a renovated French villa and now the ribs carry his namesake.

But it’s the twist on old world favourites, think fried snail spring rolls and miniature vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually elegant setting that make this spot near the train tracks standout. Be sure to try the roll-your-own cha ca

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spring rolls and check the schedule for live traditional music.

POTS ‘N PANS

57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3944 0204 potsnpans.vn 11.30am to late Brought to you by a group of former disadvantaged youth from Hanoi’s own KOTO, this unique fine dining restaurant, bar and lounge blends the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like profiteroles with green tea and café fillings, a private chef’s table with a kitchen view, and an extensive wine list combined with modern formal styling bring a unique experience to Hanoi.

SATINE

29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414 hoteldelopera.com Situated in the heart of Hotel de l’Opera’s 8 storey central atrium, Satine offers a high class dining experience. Signature Vietnamese dishes from around the country will be presented to guests including some of the country’s best kept culinary secrets passed down by generations.

Restobars DALUVA

CLASSY FUSION 33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 5831 daluva.com 8am until late A popular hang-out for expats and trendy Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.

This bar and restaurant offers casual dining with a classy twist, as well as wine, tapas, events and attractive décor. Additional services include catering, BBQ rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway and local delivery.

ETE BAR

FRENCH LOUNGE 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh Tel: 0976 751331 10am to midnight A favourite among those who roam further west of the city centre, this multistorey restobar has been going strong for more than two years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails. For many the Ete burger is right on the mark as are

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{THE Promotions} the sandwiches, tartines and salads. It’s always crowded — especially during the weekends. Amiable staff, pleasant vibes.

J.A.F.A.

INTERNATIONAL G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3758 2400 7am to 11pm One of the larger and more comfortable bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are not the cheapest, but this is made up for by service and ambiance. They also have a full menu featuring familiar western dishes such as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for large parties or dinner functions.

Periodic buffets and drink specials are also offered.

JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE

23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 8388 Jacksons-steakhouse.com 9.30am to midnight This new addition to the city from the Alfresco’s Group is definitely the meatiest yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic restobar — which has a bar lounge on the ground, a restaurant vibe on the second and third, and a “boardroom” on the fourth — Jacksons Steakhouse serves of well presented plates of imported Oz and New Zealand steaks as well as seafood. Of course, the large restaurant wouldn’t be complete without a large wine list to match.

LA PETIT TONKINOISE

ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3941 3336 8am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is housed in a restored colonial building. The beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, and shade is provided by tasteful cream parasols.

Inside, a non-smoking, air-conditioned room is the perfect place to escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese fare is on offer, they have a huge range of wine, beer and coffee and they serve excellent fries too.

LE PUB

BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3926 2104

7am to midnight Dark red walls and even darker brown seating run through the homely and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in town with a regular stream of clientele. A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, a decent international cum Vietnamese food menu, happy hour specials and live sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets involved in the local community through regular events.

Has a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho.

PUKU

INTERNATIONAL / CAFE 16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 1745 Open 24 hours This spacious spot on food street is open around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along with more eclectic Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings and live music while the nosmoking downstairs space is filled with people working and socialising. Serves as community centre, catering both to ravenous backpackers who’ve just arrived off the night train from Sapa and locals looking to meet up.

R&R TAVERN

BAR, CAFÉ AND MUSIC VENUE 256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6295 8215 Come grab a drink at the newly revamped R &R to enjoy a taste of American style brew and their comforting Western dishes.

The pub still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course, some quality live rock music. Its upstairs area is equipped with a sound system and stage setup for weekly shows and events while the downstairs area houses a classic bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly community environment.

ROOFTOP

SKYLINE LOUNGE 19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3946 1901 8am to midnight If location counts for anything, then here it is spectacular. With a 270-degree

view over the whole of the city, the up-on-high theme of the Rooftop is used to its full. The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick, sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine displays and a private room out back for more intimate drinking.

Also does day-time office lunches, coffee and decent bar food.

Mövenpick’s Mid-Autumn Festival Celebrations

SOUTHGATE

CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 1979 southgatehanoi.com Sunday to Wednesday 11.30am to midnight.

Thursday to Saturday 11.30am to 2am An American-run casual yet sophisticated restobar on Food Street with a great outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar space, a chef’s table and upstairs seating. Matched by contemporary décor, the creative food menu focuses on doing comfort food well, while a decent new and old world wine list and innovative cocktails make up the mix. Popular with the media and artsy set.

TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE

Building A Second Floor ,9 Tran Thanh Tong Tel: (04) 6680 9124 tadioto.com 8.30am to Midnight Alternative and nostalgic restaurant bar with a dim lit conversational ambience. This French-style villa is adorned with old-world architectural styles and hints of engaging contemporary artwork along its walls. Enjoy a glass of wine to complement a variety of succulent light dishes in this combination café, bar, and gallery. Includes lounge seating, two bars, an outdoor patio, and two multi-purpose rooms for small gatherings. Tadioto is an exciting, intimate venue for live music, literary readings, and art showcases.

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

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Flash deal for Van Chai Resort Van Chai Resort is offering a fab Flash deal for this month only with a discount of 25 percent for one night’s stay and a 30 percent discount for a twonight stay. There is a further 10 percent discount on food and beverage and a 20 percent discount on health treatment at its Co Nature Spa. This offer is not applicable on public holidays and not in conjunction with other promotions.

Contact Van Chai Resort Hanoi Sales Office for further information. Tel: (04) 37172438, email sales@vanchai-vn.com or visit vanchai-vn.com

La Brasserie Dining Specials There is a Japanese dinner buffet special every Saturday and Sunday boasting traditional dishes like sushi, tempura and sashimi at La Brasserie in Nikko Hotel. However, the restaurant has now added lobster into the mix. Priced at VND700,000++ per person, the deal includes a glass of wine and a free flow of soft drinks and draught beer.

There is also a simple and elegant weekend lunch on offer on Saturdays and Sundays. The buffet includes a wide selection of soups, salads and desserts, and your choice of one main course selected from La Brasserie’s signature dishes. Priced at VND300,000++ per person.

La Brasserie is on the first floor of the Nikko Hotel, 84 Tran Nhan Tong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 3535

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi will be offering a wide selection of moon cake delicacies until Sep. 20. Made using the finest quality ingredients and beautifully packaged, the flavours include mixed nuts, tiramisu, green tea and white lotus single yolk (low sugar).

The cakes come in boxes of four priced at VND680,000 and VND350,000 for boxes of two.

To place your order call (04) 3822 2800 or email your orders to thuy.nghiem@moevenpick.com

Melia Hanoi’s Mediterranean Buffet El Patio Restaurant, which is known for its Mediterranean spread, promises an exclusive treat every Tuesday with a menu featuring healthy delicacies from Spain, France and Italy.

On Thursdays South and Central American dishes are added to the selection.

Both buffet evenings cost VND690,000++ per adult and VND475,000++ per child under 10 including a free-flow of house wine, draught beer and soft drinks.

For information and reservations, contact (04) 3934 3343 ext. 7503

Hilton’s new series of moon cakes This year, Hilton’s moon cakes boxes are designed in earth friendly green and brown with a lotus pattern. A box of four large cakes and a box of eight small cakes cost just VND650,000 with the most expensive the VIP Platinum box with four large cakes, a tea set and Hennessy XO going for a cool VND3.8 million. Cakes are available in red bean, white lotus, black sesame, pandan, taro with egg, green bean, green bean and green tea, and green bean and green tea with egg flavours.

All cakes are available in the hotel’s lobby until Sep. 19. For more information call (04) 3933 0600

September 2013 Word | 161

hanoi

{THE Alchemist} The Whole Picture

LEISU Time to release all that pent up energy - it’s not all work Here are some ideas for better ways to spend that free time

book shops

swimming pools

Bookworm

B

ack in January of this year I wrote an article about the multidimensional aspect of human beings. Read it here if you wish: issuu.com/wordvietnam/docs/ wordhanoi_january__2013.

The premise of the article was that we are more than just our physical bodies, and in fact we have multiple energetic bodies or layers that represent multiple aspects of ourselves.

What happens when these ‘other selves’ are not well or feeling under the weather, so to speak? These diseases are sometimes expressed through our temperament, emotions, the state of our mental well-being, as well as our physical bodies. When faced with a particular physical ailment we can often enhance the healing process if we tend to our mental, emotional and even spiritual health. Attending to our whole being facilitates healing on a deeper level.

In today’s modern world, science and metaphysics are joining hands more and more to branch allopathic and ancient healing practices. Whether it be a lifestyle choice or desperation after having tried all medical options, more and more people are turning to alternative therapies for wellness.

Scientific research verifies the healing benefits of complementary medicine, and hospitals and medical schools around the world are incorporating alternative therapies in their services at an ever-increasing rate.

Prevention is the Best Medicine A natural diet that reduces the amount of processed foods consumed, a life regime that includes nutritional supplements, herbal remedies, exercise, relaxation, psycho-spiritual counseling, meditation, breathing exercises, Yoga and other selfregulatory practices, are all examples of how we can nurture our body, mind and soul. Holistic health should be a marriage

162 | Word September 2013

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 3711 Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanoi’s literary scene since 2001.

It has been around the block quite a bit and now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking Centre. With over 15,000 new and secondhand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock, the shop also buys used books and offers free travel advice.

of the best of modern scientific diagnosis and monitoring techniques, together with alternative modalities that look beyond symptoms and address the whole person.

Not a Replacement but a Partnership Integrative Care (IC) — the blending of alternative/complementary medicine with conventional medical care — is on the increase. Patients are seeking out IC and prepared to pay out of pocket for it. Health care providers are increasingly seeing the value of providing complementary therapies as a support for medical treatments.

Some health conditions that have shown success with IC include allergies, arthritis, asthma, backaches, headaches, irritable bowel syndrome, menopausal discomforts, neurological disorders, chronic fatigue syndrome and many more.

Higher Level Wellness Examples of alternative therapies include acupuncture, osteopathy, homeopathy, massage therapy, energy healing, psychospiritual counselling and much more. These therapies emphasize prevention, health maintenance and ‘higher’ level wellness that often include some sort of introspective activity such as Yoga, meditation or simply a walk in nature.

Hanoi offers a fair range of complementary/alternative therapies.

Along with the traditional Vietnamese healing arts, there are several Western practitioners providing services. Contact the author for more information on holistic health care in Hanoi or access the Hanoi Holistic Health Guide at issuu.com/ hanoiholistichealth Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker is a holistic health practitioner practicing in Hanoi.

For information on the types of services provided visit a-roamingbodyworker.com

Cinemas Cinematheque

22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3936 2648 Not a movie theater per se, but a private film club that charges a membership fee in return for entrance to a wide selection of movies, new and old. The management has an eclectic taste and shows films from all over the world.

Clubs & Societies American Club

21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3824 1850 A bit worn around the edges, but the facilities are still useful and the grounds pleasant. They host frequent events that are open to the public.

Wide lawn, volleyball and basketball courts may make the place worth a visit.

Hanoi International Theatre Society (HITS) hitshanoi.com A non-profit theatre club that produces small scale drama productions in English, often with Vietnamese subtitles. Since 2001, HITS have been drawing the attention of a large audience all over Vietnam. Auditions are open to anyone with a passion for theatre.

L’Espace

24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3936 2164 vphanoi-lespace.com A space for creativity, arts appreciation and performing arts. As a French cultural club, members can enjoy a variety of French classic films, music and

Army Hotel

33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3825 2896

Four Seasons

14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da Tel: 3537 6250

Hanoi Club

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8115 www.hanoi-club.com

Horison Fitness Center 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh Tel: 3733 0808

Melia Hotel

44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343

Olympia

4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3933 1049

Sao Mai

10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho Tel: 3718 3161

Sofitel Plaza Fitness Center 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3823 8888

Than Nhan

Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the park)

Thang Loi Hotel 200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho

theatre, as well as socialise with friends over an espresso in the petite café in the building.

Cooking Classes HANOI COOKING CENTRE

44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3715 0088. hanoicookingcentre.com Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail outlet and café, where you can find classes on not just Vietnamese cooking, but international cuisine, held in a beautiful setting. They also offer culinary tours.

hanoi

U RE

{ book Buff } Countries of the Mind

and propping up the bar, you know.

This month, Bookworm’s Truong explores the fictional places that books have made real

HIDDEN HANOI

147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 0912 254045 hiddenhanoi.com.vn A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these wellappointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will guide you through the secrets of Vietnamese cooking in an open air courtyard.

HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0976848301 The well-known restaurant also offers one-off cooking courses in the kitchens at their Truc Bach location.

Don’t worry if you forget some of the tricks, as the class includes a recipe booklet.

KOTO

Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van Tel: 01268706708 koto.com.vn This charitable organisation, which helps street kids gain the skills to succeed in the hospitality industry, also offers cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays at their training centre. Learn how to make some of the items on their menu at home. Pick up is also available at their Van Mieu location.

Cycling The Hanoi Bicycle Collective (THBC)

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 8246 thbc.vn Tucked down an alleyway just off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but also rents and fixes bicycles. To add to the eclectic, community spirit they also organise bicycle tours, run yoga sessions, hold music concerts in their upstairs cafe area and run a great menu of Spanish tapas served up, if you so wish, with gin & tonic. Quite a mix!

T

here are a number of great North American writers who set their stories in fictional places that represent locales in which they live or once lived. Some that immediately spring to mind are Margaret Laurence’s small town of Manawaka in Manitoba, Canada, Elizabeth Strout’s and Richard Russo’s communities in Maine, Faulkner’s Yoknapatawpha County in Mississippi and Hemingway’s short stories set in small town Horton’s Bay in Michigan.

Our particular favourite is Kent Haruf, whose wonderful, contemporary stories are set in and around the high plains Colorado town of Holt.

Haruf’s prose is reminiscent of Hemingway, in that he writes with the same pared down sensibility and simple, declarative sentences.

Haruf leapt to prominence in 1999 with Plainsong — which one reviewer aptly described as being so delicate and lovely that it had the power to exalt the reader. This was followed in 2004 by Eventide, an overwhelmingly beautiful and engrossing sequel with the same cast of main characters.

As readers who’ve become entranced with Haruf’s way with words expected, the males remained as stoic and the women as long-suffering as their

sparse and desolate high plains climate. Underlying this, they are sympathetic and very believable, with a strong dose of generosity and humaneness hidden under their wind-bitten facades. One reviewer of the sequel called the elderly male protagonists “too goodhearted” — and this is why most readers just can’t get enough of them. They are men of honour — honour that is sincere, not boastful.

Benediction After a wait of nine years, Haruf’s new novel, Benediction, is on the shelves and being widely praised as his best yet, “like a honed, shining piece of wood or an especially fine garment”.

It is also set in Holt, but with a different cast of characters and a different set of community issues, which include terminal cancer, homosexuality, broken marriages and the terse lives of relatives who are carers. The elderly McPherson brothers who became so beloved to readers in the first books are replaced by dad Lewis, who has been diagnosed with cancer.

But why give the plot away? It’s enough to say that the novel will garner a new lot of Haruf fans and please those who have visited Holt before.

The biblical implications of the novels’ titles are obvious, and

the characters and their actions can be compared with those of heroic figures in the Old and New Testaments. The teasing out of those threads could give members of an intellectual book club much pleasure.

It is not necessary to read the three novels in sequence as they stand alone, all literary masterpieces and addictive reads.

Once one is finished you’ll probably go scrabbling after the others and might even pick up on Haruf’s earlier works, also set in Holt, such as The Tie That Binds and Where You Once Belonged, and you might get hooked on his short stories.

For those with a geographic bent, Holt is based on the real Colorado town of Yuma, where Haruf lived in the 1980s.

I’ll close with another reviewer’s statement: “If you want to meet characters who will stay with you for days, weeks, years after you close the book, if you want to find faith in the human spirit, then pick up one of these stellar books.”

For more information on Bookworm go to bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second, smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton and in the same alley as VilaTom Coffee, it can be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam, Tay Ho

September 2013 Word | 163

hanoi VIETCLIMB

{windown Shopping} Coconut Oil

Y

ou often see aisle upon aisle of beauty products made up of indecipherable, “scientifically-proven to be effective” lists of ingredients with high price tags. It’s at once intimidating and convincing, and a complete turn-off for a self-proclaimed beauty junkie and health nut on a budget like myself. When you add that with the proliferation of questionable, cheap — and often imitation — products that exist without regulation, it only makes sense to make your own products at home. Like my food, I like things to be healthy and safe for the environment, as well as effective.

What goes into beauty products is just as important as what you eat because your body naturally absorbs everything you put on your skin.

I don’t generally consider rubbing edible plant grease over my face, hands and body as a beauty treatment, but countless experts and naturalbeauty devotees swear by the miracle substance for just about everything. Coconut oil, beyond its beneficial properties as a food, is actually one of the most versatile, inexpensive and easy to use beauty products.

The Miracle Oil It possesses an unusually high percentage of lauric acid and vitamin E, which are naturally antiviral, antimicrobial and antibacterial, and even useful for treating acne. It’s high in antioxidants and prevents destructive free-radical activity (the primary cause of ageing),

164 | Word September 2013

and is a natural sunscreen. It’s an excellent moisturiser, powerfully hydrating and rich in minerals and nutrients, and gives skin a soft, smooth, not greasy texture sans residue. Not to mention it smells delicious, like cookies or summertime.

There are a myriad of cosmetic uses, including homemade deodorant, shaving cream, face masks, lip balms, body scrubs and more. Used alone, or combined with other easy to find ingredients, you can use it for pretty much anything. Here are my favourite beauty-related uses for it: 1) Makeup remover. It’s hands down one of the best makeup remover, even for waterproof products. The oil does a great job breaking down waxy, inky eye makeup and leaves the delicate eye area hydrated. Just add coconut oil to a cotton ball and swipe it gently over your eyes.

2) Face and body moisturiser.

It’s great for moisturising sensitive skin because it’s naturally antibacterial, and antifungal. It can help with wrinkles, acne or other skin issues like keratosis pilaris, the small white bumps some people have on their upper arms. It is also helpful in increasing hydration and reducing water loss in seriously dry skin.

3) Deep conditioner. It’s a great replacement for hair mask treatments that are full of chemicals. It makes your hair delectably shiny and soft.

Massage the oil into your scalp and coat your hair from root to tip. Leave on anywhere from 30 minutes to overnight (if you do this wear a shower cap or tie your hair into a bun gently and cover your pillow with a towel).

You may have to wash your hair twice to get all the oil out.

I recommend using highquality, pure coconut oil, which replaces the other products you’d be using for a fraction of their cost — both for you and the planet. — Kathryn Cardenas

Dancing ASPARA DANCE STUDIO

139 Nghi Tam, Q.Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6869 Cosy, friendly and well equipped dance studios offering dance and fitness classes for adults and children. Classes include ballet, folk dance, jazz, hip-hop, contemporary, belly dance, salsa, zumba and yoga for family. Instructors are qualified and certified from Vietnam Dance College or overseas.

Fitness California Fitness & Yoga

Capital Tower, 41 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3936 0888 cfyc.com.vn One of the leading fitness and yoga centres in Vietnam, with a complete set of modern, top-end gym equipment. Yoga, Zumba and Aerobic classes are available.

ELITE FITNESS

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 6281 elitefitness.com.vn The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with a retractable roof. The spacious studios and natural light make it a welcoming place to squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to pay. This place is top of the range.

Hanoi Club

76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3823 8115 thehanoiclub.com A great socialising spot for golf enthusiasts. The views from the driving range look straight out on to the beautiful West Lake. Members can also participate in adventurous water activities such as kayaking. Has a gym and fitness centre, a spa, restaurant and bar.

N Shape Fitness

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 6266 0495 nshapefitness.vn N Shape Fitness has maintained its high reputation since 2009 with its diverse range of equipment, facilities and classes. Spacious and airy, this gym also has a juice bar providing healthy and refreshing drinks.

40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho Tel: 0914143185 vietclimb.vn Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with stateof-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that are changed every few months. They offer clinics, classes and children’s events. Membership and group rates are available, but be sure to check out the three-month pass.

one-hour game will set you back VND150,000.

Vietclimb

So 40, Ngo 76, An Duong Tel: 0914 548903 vietclimb.vn Vietclimb was first started to bring together the climbing community around North Vietnam. In 2010 they decided to open the first climbing gym in Hanoi. The gym has 100 climbing problems of different grades suitable for every level. Also run tours to various climbing locations close to Hanoi.

Hairdressers & Salons DINH HAIR SALON

2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh Tel: 09877 18899 A small but popular hair salon that serves both expats and locals. The many repeat customers go back because of Dinh’s willingness to both follow instructions, or to be creative when asked. Services include scalp massage, shampooing, colouring and styling.

Studios Work Room Four

Building E, Floor 4, 9 Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba Trung workrmfour@gmail.com workrmfour.tumblr.com A place to work. A space to create. Somewhere to see something new.

Work Room Four is pulling together the threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas, exhibitions, workshops, artist studios, courses, contacts and events.

Recreation Royal City Ice Skating Rink

72A-74 Nguyen Trai, Thanh Xuan Tel: 0936 469799 royalcity.com.vn The first internationalstandard ice skating rink in Hanoi. Spreads over 3,000 sqm, Royal City Ice Rink has attracted many visitors and skating enthusiasts around the city since its recent opening. Skating shoes can be hired.

X-FACTORY Laser Tag

77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3627 7106 x-factory-vn.com The first and only Laser Tag Arena in Hanoi, modeled after an abandoned chemical factory. Refreshments with Vietnamese and western food are served at the bar. Also provides gaming for players waiting outside.

VND50,000 for an hour game during weekdays, VND100,000 on weekends.

Swimming Pools Keangnam Swimming Pool

Landmark 72 Tower, Pham Hung, Cau Giay Tel: (04) 3772 3801 landmark72.com With two separate swimming pools, one to relax and bask in the sun and one for fitness, The Landmark 72 provides a relaxed atmosphere in the heart of the new city.

Yoga & Meditation ZENITH YOGA

111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3923 0253 An international Yoga studio providing classes across a variety of levels and styles, including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.

Tay Ho Paintball Club

80, Alley 445, Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho Tel: 0934 529992 If you’re up for some action then paintball is the perfect option for you. Instructors and referrers are always available to help. A

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

hanoi

FASHION Looking good and dressing even better is big in this image-conscious metropolis.

So, here are some of the fashion options available to you in Hanoi

Accessories & Footwear BOO SKATESHOP

84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3923 1147 Booskateshop.com This skateshop offers a variety of clothes, shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most of the T-shirts are made and designed in Vietnam, while the shoes and other equipment are made for export, often rejected due to minor defects. Staff is knowledgeable about Hanoi’s best skateboarding spots.

THREE TREES

15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3928 8725 The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian expat, often features chunkier gold shapes with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in the back of the store there is also a display case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.

Clothing CONTRABAND

222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay

23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3928 9891 Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband targets young hip working women.

Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look after – making them ideal for work and travel. New styles are introduced each month with limited production runs, offering a sense of exclusivity.

Citimart Hanoi Towers

GEORGE’S FASHION BOUTIQUE

Supermarkets Big C Supermarket

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem

Citimart Vincom Towers 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung

Fivimart

210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem 10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh 671 Hoàng Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh 71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da 51 Xuân Dieu, Tay Ho 93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn

Hanoi Star Supermarket 36 Cat Linh, Dong Da

Intimex

22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem 131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da 17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung 27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da

Metro

126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem

36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6233 With new styles arriving in store every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average to the generous figure.

Alterations and a made-tomeasure service are available at no extra cost.

L’Atelier

33 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6758; 21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 2419 ateliervietnam.com L’Atelier’s two store stock women’s wear, leather bags, shoes and handcrafts.

This chic boutique offers both ready-to-wear and made-to-fit clothing.

METISEKO

3 Chau Thuong Van, Minh An; 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Minh An metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle. The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fairtrade, Textile Exchange.

SOLE 21

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 1968

A distinctly designed boutique around the corner from the cathedral, bringing the latest from European and American Designers.

Think Jimmy Choo, Kate Spade and Top Shop. Markup seems high on some pieces, but all designers are authentic. No fakes here

SONG

27 Pho Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 6965 asiasongdesign.com This boutique, whose name comes from the Vietnamese word for “life”, stocks high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene store awash with the fresh scent of mint. Located just across the street from the cathedral, prices are on par with its higher-end neighbours.

TAN MY DESIGN

61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3938 1154 Tanmydesign.com 800sqm of elegant, modern space that offers one-ofa-kind pieces to add to your home furnishings or wardrobe. Located across the street from the other Tan My, one of the oldest silk and embroidery stores in Hanoi.

THINGS OF SUBSTANCE 5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3828 6965 This shop’s motto “Western sizes, Vietnamese prices”, says it all. While mostly retailing women’s separates in soft cotton jersey and linen, the store also carries a range of accessories like embroidered canvas totes and printed tees. Has a good selection of unique men’s shirts.

Zeds Threads

51A To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: 0947 536515 zedsthreads.com Classical men’s clothing in expertly tailored western sizes both off the rack and made-tomeasure. The menswear range includes formal and casual shirts; khaki, linen, chino and denim trousers; Bermuda style shorts in chino, denim and linen; and casual light denim jackets. Affordably priced, all clothing is handmade under fair working conditions from 100% natural fabrics. For more information email info@zedsthreads.

{ the Therapist } Getting Help it made me change my career so that I could learn how to listen to and understand the problems that people face and how to help them.

I went back to school to earn a Master’s degree in Counseling Psychology. In this programme I learned about how to create a safe place so people could feel comfortable to talk, even when it is about some painful part of their life. I also learned about psycho-pathologies, which are the Douglas Holwerda, many different ways that people American trained and can have emotional or mental licensed mental health problems. There are some serious counsellor, answers your problems that are common all questions and offers advice over the world, like schizophrenia and personality disorders. There Dear Douglas, is treatment and medication for I am Vietnamese, a 28-year-old female. people who have these things, I know many foreigners who help me but they are permanent and can improve my English. Recently, in a never be completely free from small group, a foreigner friend was those mental illnesses. Sometimes talking about what their therapist I help to diagnose these things, but said in their last meeting. I was those illnesses are best treated by a very surprised that she is seeing a psychiatrist or psychologist. psychologist because she seems very Most of the people who come normal. I have read your advice in to me have conditions that are Word and wonder even more about temporary and treatable. We could psychology and what you do to help say that they are normal problems people. Who can come to see you and that anyone could have at some what is the reason? How do you help time in their life. Often they are them? related to stress and create some kind of emotional pain. Depression — Curious and anxiety are the most common.

So it is my job to listen carefully to Dear Curious, understand what a person is going Wow… you are asking great through, keeping an awareness of questions and I will try to explain. how to best help them make the For me my interest in psychology changes in their lives in order to began when I was a teacher. I feel better… having less emotional saw many students and I was pain and feeling better about always curious why students themselves. Some people come behaved the way they did. to me to talk because they are Some students had confidence interested in personal growth. They and were successful, both are doing fine, are not in emotional socially and academically. Many pain and want to seek higher goals students had some problems… to make life meaningful and to being motivated, getting along discover how they can touch their with people, controlling their own ability and creative expression. emotions and feeling confident in That idea is that self-awareness is themselves. As a teacher, I always the key to self fulfillment. tried to understand my students I hope that is helpful… and as and often asked them to write always… be well! essays or come to talk to me about — Douglas what their experiences were like.

I had many experiences where a Do you have a question you would like student told me something that Douglas’s help with? You can email was bothering them and it seemed him at douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. to help then feel better. Ultimately, Personal details will not be printed

September 2013 Word | 165

hanoi

{ A World of Good } A Reading List for Changemakers

By Dana McNairn What you need to know before you buy that family a goat

T

he new buzz word in development and social impact circles is ‘changemaker’.

Who wouldn’t want to be one? You do good, help others, donate to charity or perhaps even describe yourself (or your business) using words like ‘social enterprise’. You are indeed a changemaker. (Some of you out there might remember when folks referred to themselves as rainmakers: back then we ‘influenced’, now we ‘inspire’.) Nonetheless, I’m all for helping others help themselves, but I propose a bit of backto-school reading first before you casually drop changemaker into your conversation at the next networking event.

Books to Start With A good entry into the world of changemaking is the French–Algerian psychiatrist, Frantz Fanon. The Wretched of the Earth (1961) will help you understand the human and social costs of the then nascent global decolonisation project.

Orientalism (1978) by the Harvard Economist, Edward Said, will help you gain perspective on how the West romanticises and fetishises the ‘exotic other’ world people.

The Nobel prize-winning Indian philosopher and Cambridge economist, Amartya Sen, has spent decades arguing that the ‘capability approach’ is what’s needed for individuals and communities to transform themselves. Read her book: Development as Freedom (1999).

Do No Harm (1999) by Mary Anderson, an American economist and development worker, is the godmother of devastating international aid critiques and how good

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intentions can exacerbate violence and deprivation, and how to avoid that.

The economists do like to wade into the development fracas, don’t they?

Reading (or rereading) these classics will provide you with the beginning of a solid foundation in why altruism isn’t — and shouldn’t be — the main ingredient in development. Please do be a changemaker, but you have to do your homework on philanthropy before you buy that ‘poor’ family a goat or help build a school.

These books pave the way for the next essential reads (and yes, sorry, more economists alert): — Gayle Tzemach Lemmon, American business journalist, The Dress Maker of Khair Khana (2011) is the book on how to do it right with women entrepreneurs.

— You’ve likely heard of US economists and academics Jeffrey Sachs (The End of Poverty) and William Easterly (The White Man’s Burden). The message of Sachs (more aid!) and Easterly (poverty is complex!) are, to my mind, put to bed

by Paul Collier’s The Bottom Billion (more trade and international law!). Zambian economist Dambisa Moyo’s Dead Aid (2009) is a controversial (no aid!) criticism against paternalism.

— Lastly, Stewart Brand is best described as a deep thinker. The Clock of the Long Now (2000) reflects on mankind’s inability to focus on the long term and what changemakers and humanitarians might do instead.

What I’m suggesting is that there might be better ways to approach poverty and social justice rather than things like glossy livestock catalogues designed for western consumption, or ‘feel good’ narratives about the incredible impact of you laying brick for a couple of days in the tropics.

Which brings us to the ‘are-you-reallya-changemaker’ exam. Is that goat really a goat or is it a scapegoat? A+ if you chose the latter.

Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit social enterprise and vocational training programme for at-risk youth. She can be contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au

hanoi

HOME

From catering services through to the growing number of bakeries - and we’re not just talking banh my. Here are places to stock up on wine, liquor, imported cheeses and freshly baked bread

Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

METISEKO

40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3935 2645 metiseko.com A lifestyle brand that started out life in Hoi An, Metiseko’s move to the capital will see them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle.

The products — clothing, accessories and furniture — are made from natural silk and organic cotton certified to global organic standards. Metiseko is also certified by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.

Groceries

KINH DO

41 Lac Long Quan, Tay Ho One of the oldest and most well-established bakeries in the city, maybe best known as Catherine Deneuve’s former haunt, Kinh Do has been around much longer than any expat. But their breads, pastries and quiches keep foreigners and Vietnamese coming back. Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu as well.

PARIS DELI

6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3934 5269 With two locations, one by the Opera House and the other by St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both are sit-down restaurants, but are happy to sell you their baked goods over the counter, to go.

Crafts MEKONG QUILTS

58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 4607 9 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho 13 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 4831 Mekong-quilts.org Community development non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from traditional to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded in 2001 and with outposts in several locations around the region, the shop employs women in rural areas, enabling them to make an income and care for their families.

Furniture LA CASA

Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 4084 lacasavietnam.com.vn A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other household objects, this spot has everything from beds and bookshelves, to tableware and silverware.

The items are all locally made by skilled artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding regions.

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 6674 4130 naturallyvietnam.com Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies, honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from 8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market, a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.

PUNTO ITALIA

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier importing the finest espresso coffee as well as Italian coffee machines for professional, home and office use. Real Italian granita, ice-cream and much more is now available in Vietnam with the support of a professional and friendly service.

THE OASIS

24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 1196 A great place to get all kinds of imported groceries and home-made foods. All of the breads and pastas are made in the in-house kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.

Kitchen Products KITCHEN ART

38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770 kitchenart.vn Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies, cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in regular demonstrations and workshops at the Studio, or simply read and relax at the cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the peaceful West Lake view.

PUNTO ITALIA

62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510 puntoitalia.asia Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines for the workplace or home, specialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own brand coffee in capsules,

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

Liquor & Wine BACCHUS CORNER

1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3935 1393 Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest liquor and wine distributor in the country, the walls here are lined with a decent selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and back lit. Besides their selection of new and old world wines Helpful staff and free delivery.

DA LOC

NATURALLY VIETNAM

Bakeries

ready ground or as the original roasted mix of beans.

96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 2076 65 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3941 2789 C4 Giang Vo, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3726 4889 Daloc.vn This wine importer and distributor has over 250 different types of wine in its portfolio and is doing its part to bring a culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung and an upscale outlet is located within the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel on Ly Thoung Kiet.

HANOI GOURMET

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3943 1009 Hanoigourmet.com Not just a wine shop, the long-running Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a look at the deli and sit down for a light snack.

PANE E VINO WINE SHOP

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem Tel: (04) 3826 9080 This Italian favourite with a huge food menu also has a huge for-retail wine list that is 100 percent focused on fine wines and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has great knowledge of Italian wine and a passion to match, which is sure to land you with the best wine for any occasion.

THE WAREHOUSE

59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 7666 warehouse-asia.com The Warehouse is Vietnam’s ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of the greatest wines from the best wine-growing regions on the planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both old and new world wines.

Pets ASVELIS VETERINARY HOSPITAL

No 4, Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 5475 asvelis.com Founded by a French–Vietnamese couple who love taking care of companion animals, the ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital has developed from a small clinic into a hospital. In addition to dental care and basic laboratory test equipment, the pet hospital also offers boarding services, which are located in a pet-friendly environment in Soc Son, 10 minutes from Noi Bai airport.

wordvietnam.com

Electronics Cameras

A Dong Photo Co 128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 0732 This camera shop retails a wide range of cameras, including both analogue and DSLR models, as well as film and accessories like flashes and lenses.

Alpha Laptop

95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 4418 This laptop retail and repair shop also carries camera accessories and cases.

Fuong May Anh

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3213 1568 This small store has a wide selection of Viet Nam-produced Pentax cameras. Also has a selection of imported lenses.

Nguyen Cau

1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem This camera shop overlooking the lake develops both digital and film prints.

Services include photo mounting and passport photos.

Computers and Electronics DK Computer 29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772 4772 This large electronics retailer deals in computers, printers, as well as external storage devices.

Hi-Tech USA

23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 6261 A small, but good all-around electronics store, selling all kinds of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods, headphones, cables and phone accessories. Many name-brands.

Pico Plaza

35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem This is a super-sized electronics shop with each floor devoted to a specific kind of electronics. You’ll be able to find pretty much anything you’re looking for here, from a phone to a computer to a washing machine.

Professional Computer Care and IT Services

No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 0983 011081 This service company can help with a just about any computer-related task. Computer repairs, set up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and development.

On-site and off-site service, and free quotes.

Vietsad

34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3747 8771 Located on bustling “computer street”, this shop offers a range of computer accessories including keyboards and USB drives. They also do computer and laptop repair.

hanoi

{ medical Buff } Alcoholism

A

lcoholism is a chronic and often progressive disease that includes problems controlling your drinking, being preoccupied with alcohol, continuing to use alcohol even when it causes problems, having to drink more to get the same effect (physical dependence), or having withdrawal symptoms when you rapidly decrease or stop drinking.

— Drinking more alcohol than you intended — Having an ongoing desire to unsuccessfully cut down on how much you drink — Spending a good deal of time drinking or recovering from alcohol use — Giving up important activities, including social, occupational or recreational activities — Continuing to use alcohol even though you know it’s causing physical and psychological problems

Symptoms Alcoholism signs and symptoms include those below: — Being unable to limit the amount of alcohol you drink — Feeling a strong need or compulsion to drink — Developing tolerance to alcohol so that you need more to feel its effects — Drinking alone or hiding your drinking — Experiencing physical withdrawal symptoms — such as nausea, sweating and shaking when you don’t drink — Not remembering conversations or commitments, the so-called ‘black out’ — Making a ritual of having drinks at certain times and becoming annoyed when this ritual is disturbed — Being irritable when your usual drinking time nears, especially if alcohol isn’t available — Keeping alcohol in unlikely places at home, at work or in your car — Gulping drinks, ordering doubles or becoming drunk intentionally to feel good, or drinking to feel ‘normal’ — Have legal problems or problems with relationships, employment or finances due to drinking — Losing interest in activities and hobbies that used to bring you pleasure If you’ve ever wondered whether your drinking crosses the line into problem drinking or alcoholism, ask yourself these questions: — If you’re a man, do you ever have five or more drinks in a day?

— If you’re a woman, do you ever have four or more drinks in a day?

— Do you ever need a drink to get you started in the morning?

— Do you feel guilty about your drinking?

— Are you annoyed when other people comment on or criticize your drinking habits?

If you answered ‘yes’ to even one of these questions, you may have a problem with alcohol.

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Treatments and drugs

Complications Excessive drinking can reduce your judgment skills and lower inhibitions, leading to poor choices and dangerous situations or behaviours, motor vehicle accidents, domestic problems, poor performance at work or school, and an increased likelihood of committing violent crimes.

Health problems caused by excessive drinking can include liver disease, digestive problems, heart problems, diabetes complications, issues with sexual function and menstruation, birth defects, increased risk of osteoporosis, numbness, short-term memory loss, a weakened immune system and an increased risk of cancer.

Tests and diagnosis Criteria spelled out in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM), include a pattern of alcohol use leading to serious problems, as indicated by three or more of the following at any time during one 12-month period: — Tolerance. Indicated by an increase in the amount of alcohol you need to feel drunk — Withdrawal symptoms. These can include tremors, insomnia, nausea and anxiety

Many people with alcoholism hesitate to get treatment because they don’t recognize they have a problem. Treatment for alcoholism may include: — Detoxification and withdrawal.

Treatment for alcoholism may begin with a programme of detoxification, which generally takes two to seven days. Admission to a residential program if there is severe alcoholism.

— Psychological counselling.

Counselling and therapy is an essential part of coping with the disease, preventing or dealing with relapses, and staying sober. Alcoholics Anonymous (AA) is a self-help group of people recovering from alcoholism. AA offers a sober peer group as an effective model for achieving total abstinence. The AA programme is built around 12 straightforward suggestions for people who choose to lead sober lives. They stress the necessity for honesty about the past and present. Membership is free but requires a willingness to try to remain sober.

— Oral medications. Disulfiram (Antabuse) induces negative conditioning (vomiting) when taken with alcohol. Naltrexone (Revia), a drug that blocks the ‘good feelings’ alcohol may induce.

— Medical treatment for other conditions.

Including high blood pressure, high blood sugar, liver disease and heart disease. Many alcohol-related health problems improve significantly once you stop drinking.

— Alternative medicine techniques including: yoga, meditation and acupuncture which can help reduce stress and re-focus the mind, may be used.

Family Medical Practice is at 298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Hanoi and Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City

MEDICAL From counselling through to that once-a-year medical check, here are some the medical options available in town

Counselling FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3843 0748 (24 hours) vietnammedicalpractice.com Family Medical Practice provides psychotherapy and nutrition counselling services by in-house specialists. For more information or to book an appointment, please call the clinic.

INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD. 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3826 4545 internationalsos.com In addition to emergency healthcare, the clinic also offers consultations by in-house specialists, full counselling and psychotherapy services. Call to make an appointment.

Dental INTERNATIONAL SOS

Photo by Mike Hauser

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com 24-hour emergency service with pricey, but international quality emergency and routine dental services. If your wisdom tooth needs pulling in the middle of the night, or you break a tooth, there are competent doctors and fast service.

WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, 2nd Floor, Syrena Center, Tay Ho District Tel: (04) 3710 0555 Westcoastinternational.com The Westcoast International Dental Clinic is composed of dental professionals who deliver modern, high-level dental services throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides the highest quality technology, comfort and after-service care to patients.

Medical FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE

298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: (04) 3843 0748 vietnammedicalpractice.com On the little street directly below Kim Ma, with all sorts of specialists including OB/ GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Mediumsized practice with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they are used to treating expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.

FRENCH HOSPITAL

1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da Tel: (04) 3577 1100 hfh.com.vn The first international hospital created in Hanoi, and still viewed by some as the gold standard for medical treatment.

Offering everything from standard medical and preventative care to surgical procedures. Full-service hospital that has both doctors and staff speaking good French and English.

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3934 0666 Internationalsos.com Well-known medical clinic also known for its quality emergency services. Doctors and consultants also provide a range of services from standard GP-style check-ups through to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist care.

VINMEC International Hospital

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung Tel: (04) 3974 3556 vinmec.com VINMEC is the first hospital in Vietnam to have international standard quarantine rooms for patients with infectious diseases. Vietnamese and foreign medical professionals provide effective treatment with high quality medical technology and exceptional standard rooms.

Vets ASVELIS VETERINARY HOSPITAL

No 4, Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 5475 asvelis.com Founded by a French窶天ietnamese couple who love taking care of companion animals, the ASVELIS Veterinary Hospital has developed from a small clinic into a hospital. In addition to dental care and basic laboratory test equipment, the pet hospital also offers boarding services, which are located in a pet-friendly environment in Soc Son, 10 minutes from Noi Bai airport.

hanoi

{ School Ties } What Makes a Good International School?

V

ietnam is full of schools claiming to be ‘international’. Just because a school is working in English or because it has the words ‘British’, ’American’, ‘Australian’ or even ‘International’ in its name does not mean it is truly international. So, what is it that truly makes a school ‘international’?

And how can parents tell which schools will be the best for the development and education of their children?

Providing your children with an international education involves far more than making sure they go to a school with the right name. Here are a number of factors that make a school truly ‘international’.

Students — The school attracts students from a

range of nationalities — The range is balanced — no single

nationality dominates — The school culture respects and

celebrates all of its nationalities — The learning environment offers

appropriate challenge and support for

all students regardless of nationality

and language

Teachers — The teachers represent a range and

balance of nationalities

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— The teachers have experience in other

international schools — They are familiar with international

curricular models and resources — They have experience teaching English

Language Learners (ELLs) — They hold recognised international

teacher qualifications (Bachelor’s and

Master’s degree levels) — They are fluent in the main language

of instruction (native or near-native fluency) — They also speak other languages —

desirable rather than absolutely

essential. Research suggests that

multilingual teachers are better able

to empathise with students who are

learning a new language — Their behaviour is professional both

in and out of school, respectful of their

position as role models for students — They reflect on their teaching, value

constructive criticism and continually

seek to improve learning for their students

— The subject areas are integrated

appropriately, balancing this with

specific teaching of essential literacy

and numeracy skills — Expectations are adjusted flexibly

to meet individual student needs

(and constantly readjusted as needs change) — Local, national and global perspectives

are incorporated — It supports and encourages a range of

teaching techniques — It includes a structured system

of assessment of student learning

and feedback to students and parents

And one final essential factor that is present in a truly international school: international-mindedness. This means the school has an active commitment to developing students who care about both familiar and unfamiliar people and places, and who will take their place as responsible citizens when they join the adult community.

If all these factors are in place, you have Curriculum a quality international school where your — The curriculum is structured, with clear children can thrive.

objectives for each grade level — It includes a range of subject areas: Dr. Lesley Snowball is Head of the International

mathematics, language, science, social School of Vietnam, located in Hoang Mai

studies, arts, technology and physical District, Hanoi. For more information go to education isvietnam.org

Travel Guide Photo by Katie Jacobs

ADDITIONAL FEATURES

Rocks, Sweat and 172 Tears The Train Ride 176 Travel Promos 184 September 2013 Word | 171

“As I hauled myself up to yet another steep, rocky cole, I stood on what felt to be the top of the world. Corsica’s sheer beauty was overwhelming and I realised that this is why we were here”

172 | Word September 2013

international

Rocks, Sweat and Tears A glutton for punishment, Katie Jacobs hikes and climbs her way through snow, mountains and treeless grassy terrain, to tackle the hardest trek in Europe.

Welcome to Corsica

U

n-roped and sliding down a chain into the abyss below, I wondered, for the hundredth time in the past few days, why I was here. Here was two hours into day four of the Grand Randonee 20 (GR20); the hardest part, of the hardest day, of the hardest walk in Europe.

The week before we had arrived on the sunny northern coast of the French Mediterranean island of Corsica. At the airport I had scoffed at the lazy sun-seeking

tourists. Who would want to get sunburnt on an over-crowded beach when there were mountains to climb, chasms to tackle, and stunning views to see? Days later, as I slid precariously down another snowdrift, sunbathing on an over-crowded beach sounded like bliss. The GR20 is a 180km trail that traverses the island from North to South. My family was hiking the northern half from Vizzavona to Calenzana, a six-day stretch known as the hardest and most beautiful section.

September 2013 Word | 173

Adrenalin and Bragging Rights Revered for its challenging terrain, GR20’s reputation should have been a warning, not an invitation to lace up the hiking boots. Yet we were not alone in wanting to take on the challenge. Every summer, hundreds of hikers arrive on the island to tackle the grueling climbs, rocky paths, steep snowy drops and, most notably, the Cirque de la Solitude; a chasm that has risen to a near mythical reputation for being not only incredibly difficult but also completely terrifying. None of these aspects seem to make for a pleasurable holiday.

Maybe we were just adrenalin junkies, sacrificing precious vacation days purely for the excitement and bragging rights of completing this challenge.

Throughout the walk, “Why are we doing this?” was a common topic of conversation.

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Dad, who takes any hikable mountain as a personal challenge, wanted the bragging rights; mum disagreed. In parts, the hike was as mentally challenging as it was physically, and with moments of near hysteria, mum did not see the pleasure in putting herself through extreme psychological distress. I was somewhere in between. The feeling of pure happiness in completing a challenge is often worth the pain and discomfort getting there; although that can be hard to remember when you’re climbing up a slippery rock face without a rope.

It seemed that others agreed.

The night before the Cirque crossing, a young Canadian woman who we had come to know seemed all confidence; however, my discussion with her the next day was very different. “Of course

I was terrified,” she said. “It was one of the scariest moments of my life; but the challenge was great — we should always challenge ourselves.” Other conversations and online comments about the GR20 show that this is a common perception.

According to academic psychologists, voluntary risk-taking is something that many of us frequently undertake. The increased epinephrine hormone in our system, or adrenalin, can be addictive. In addition to this, the satisfaction felt upon completing a difficult challenge makes the risk even more attractive. The GR20 combined both these effects. Not only did we frequently feel bursts of fear followed by adrenalin, but we also had the bragging rights of having completed the ‘toughest trek in Europe’. The feeling of climbing out of the Cirque de la Solitude was one

“Throughout the walk, ‘Why are we doing this?’ was a common topic of conversation” of pure joy, relief, and fulfillment. One that I think I shared with the excited group of jumping, laughing, photo-happy hikers next to me. At the end of the trek there was a certain camaraderie felt between the people we had began with the week earlier.

Completing the GR20 had set us apart from other hikers. We were serious trekkers, now.

If we completed this, we could complete anything.

On Top of the World As I hauled myself up to yet another steep, rocky cole, I stood on what felt to be the top of the world. Corsica’s sheer beauty was overwhelming and I realised that this is why we were here. While the promise of adrenalin and bragging rights may attract many, such as my dad, to the GR20, it is the spectacular landscape that makes it

worthwhile for those, like my mum, who do not find pleasure in walking on poorly made tracks, climbing without ropes, and scrambling over boulders.

Below me, steep granite mountains gave way to green forested hills that hid crystal-clear waterfalls and icy cold rock pools. Where the pine forest ended, the dry coastal fields welcomed the Mediterranean; glimmering in the hazy heat it beckoned us out of the mountains.

But I wasn’t ready yet. In my nostalgic, end-of-hike haze I wanted to savour the last of these bewitching mountains that seem to defy gravity in their haste to escape the sea below.

Despite the bravado and ‘cred’ associated with the GR20, there is no denying that it is these moments that draw us to the challenge. The pleasure

of arriving at such a breathtaking view is made all the sweeter by the blood, sweat and tears that we (literally) shed along the way.

Information To start the trek from Calenzana, fly to Sainte-Catherine Airport (also known as Aeroport de Calvi) — access to Conca on the other end of the trek is by bus or train.

Trekking season is usually in the summer from June to September. Air France flies to Sainte Catherine via major airports in France. For more information go to airfrance.com.vn or alternately check out aircorsica.com. To find out about hiking in Corsica, click on corsica.forhikers.com

September 2013 Word | 175

domestic

The Train Ride

Nick Ross puts on his anorak and heads down the train line that once linked Dalat with Phan Rang

176 | Word September 2013

“Y

ou should set up a tour down here,” I say to our musician friend, who is doubling up as a guide.

“No way,” he replies. “All the tour companies will copy me. And I don’t want this place full of tourists.”

We’re standing inside a tunnel that once formed part of the train line from Dalat to Phan Rang. Outside rain coats the alpine trees and the valleys, and one of our group, a female Japanese musician, has just run out of the darkness in a state of terror. When we find her later sat in the taxi, her face is still red with tears and shock. We’re not clear what’s happened, but the word ‘ghosts’ comes up.

It’s the second time I’ve followed the former train line from Dalat towards its once-busy coastal terminal in Phan Rang.

The previous trip was almost three years ago. We took the train one stop to Trai Mat, hopped on xe oms to the next station, Da Tho, which stands in ruins, before hiking to Cau Dat, another sojourn on the French-built train line. By the time we reached our final destination, Phan Rang, we had obtained a vivid sense of what this cog railway

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“The countryside is littered with coffee and vegetable plantations, shining with drops of rain, and the French-built station stands in ruins”

completed in 1932 had once been like.

Three years on and except for the journey from Dalat to Trai Mat, where the line now ends, the experience is no different. Last time the carriages were empty. Now there’s a scramble for seats. The train heaves with families and baseball-capped groups out on a day trip.

I wangle my way into the driver’s compartment to take photos. The instruments, the electrics, the switches and bulb-lit buttons have that nostalgic aura of age, and the meandering journey of the single-track line takes us through valleys, fruit plantations and small villages on the outskirts of Dalat. It provides passengers with a landscape that while not breathtaking, gives an insight into the city behind the scenes.

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Where Tourists Rarely Tread At Trai Mat the train empties out and our group hops into a taxi. Leaving the hordes behind, the journey comes alive.

7km later we descend on what was once Da Tho. The mountain air is fresh and clean, inviting you to breathe it deeply into your lungs. The countryside is littered with coffee and vegetable plantations, shining with drops of rain, and the French-built station stands in ruins. Left to the elements, you can explore at will. There are no entrance fees, no organised, perfectly curated tours, no

barriers, no queues. This is tourism fodder but without the tourists. Instead there is solitude, isolation and quiet.

As we return to Dalat a couple of hours later I ponder the words of our guide. He is correct. There should be no tours out here, no legions of tourists treading what will become a well-trodden trail. It will destroy the magic of the mountain, the charm of the ruined train line.

This is a journey for individual travellers, for the bold who want to go where other tourists rarely tread.

Information To get to Da Tho and Cau Dat stations, follow Highway 20 downhill from Trai Mat station. Although the tracks have long since been repurposed, the former railway line is easy to spot from the road.

A few hundred metres after Da Tho a track leads off the main road taking you through woodland towards the first tunnel.

For more information on the Dalat-Phan Rang Railway go to vnafmamn.com/ tracing_shangrila

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TRAVEL travel

People travel thousands of miles to get a whiff of exotic Vietnam. From travel agencies though to resorts, here are a few suggestions on where to stay and how to get there in and around Vietnam

AIRLINES Air Asia

www.airasia.com

Air France

130 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 3825 8583 www.airfrance.com.vn

Air Mekong

1st Floor, Centre Point Building, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Tel: (08) 3846 3999 www.airmekong.com.vn

American Airlines

194 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3933 0330 www.aa.com

Cathay Pacific

5th Floor, Centec Tower, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q3 Tel: 3822 3203 www.cathaypacific.com/vn

Dalat ANA MANDARA VILLAS

$$$$ Le Lai, Dalat Tel: 063 3555888 anamandara-resort.com 17 French colonial villas reside atop the slopes of Vietnam’s rural highlands. Complete with a personal butler, in-villa dining, and a holistic spa, Ana Mandra Villas is where luxury meets tranquility.

DALAT PALACE

$$$$ 12 Tran Phu, Dalat Tel: 063 382 5444 dalatpalace.vn The style of the 1920s, the backdrop of the Xuan Huong Lake and Liang Biang Mountain, and a piano bar — these are the elements through which Dalat’s top hotel retains its classic charms.

China Airlines

37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3911 1591 www.china-airlines.com

Japan Airlines

3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel, 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3821 9098 www.vn.jal.com

Jetstar Pacific www.jetstar.com/vn

Korean Air

34 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3824 2878 www.koreanair.com

Dalat Green City Hotel 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat Tel: (063) 382 7999 dalatgreencityhotel.com Located in central Dalat, this is the perfect place for budget travellers. Quiet, newly refurbished with beautiful mountain and city views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and snack bar in all rooms with a downstairs coffee shop and computers in the lobby for guest use.

Lao Airlines

93 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: 3822 6990 www.laoairlines.com

Malaysia Airlines

Saigon Tower Bulding, Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1 Tel: 3823 1588 www.singaporeair.com

Thai Airways

29 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 3822 3365 www.thaiairways.com.vn

Tiger Airways

www.tigerairways.com

Vietnam Airlines

27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1 Tel: 3832 0320 www.vietnamairlines.com

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$ 4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel: 063 382 2663 Centrally located, this quaint stop offers affordable accommodations, in a basic style. Goes bus-to-door through the Sinh Café people.

Around Hanoi BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER HOTEL

$$$ KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: 0313 880888 pearlriverhotel.vn This four-star resort offers in room bathrobe, slippers, digital safety box, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, 24-hour room service. A resort complete with a pool, deluxe spa, fitness centre, and VIP massage room.

BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY

$$$ Tel: 0933 446542 bhayacruises.com Experience breathtaking tours of the serene Halong Bay, aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three–night trips with a wide range of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.

CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARk

$ Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh, Tel: 0303 848006 cucphuongtourism.com Vietnam’s first national park and primate centre with accommodations is stilt houses or detached bungalows. Both are available at the park headquarters, the park centre and on the road between the two.

E M ER A U DE C L A SSI C CRUISES, HALONG BAY

Ground Floor, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1 Tel: 3829 2529 www.malaysiaairlines.com

Singapore Airlines

TRUNG CANG HOTEL

Dalat Train Villa

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat Tel: (063) 381 6365 dalattrainvilla.com Located near the Dalat Train Station, the Dalat Train Villa is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa. In its grounds is a 1910 train carriage which has been renovated into a bar and cafe. Located within 10 minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.

$$$$ Tel: (04) 3935 1888 emeraude-cruises.com Reproductions, of 19th–century paddle steamers, trawl around Halong Bay in colonial style. A classic experience, complete with, overnight accommodations in impeccable cabins suites.

LA FERME DU COLVERT

$$ Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh Tel: 0218 385622 etoile-des-mers.com 10 houses, surrounded by rice fields, lakes, and hills, this eco– village caters to those who wish commune with nature.

hanoi – international LA VIE VU LINH

$ Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743 lavievulinh.com A resort, ecolodge, and school, located on the banks of Thac Ba Lake. This bamboo-constructed paradise offers lake cruises, mountain biking, motorbike tours, hiking, and volunteer opportunities.

MAI CHAU LODGE

$$$ Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh, Tel: 2183 868959 maichaulodge.com Rock climbing, kayaking, cycling, and a romance in nature, the Buffalo Tours-owned lodge is set in a lush valley, this is home to indigenous Vietnamese.

NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY

$$ Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City, Quang Ninh Tel: 0333 848108 novotelhalong.com.vn This beachfront property is close to local markets. Fine dining, a professional spa with seven treatment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys impressive panoramic vistas, and a pool overlooking the limestone bay.

Bhaya Cruises, Halong Bay

47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office) www.bhayacruises.com Bhaya combines oriental style with contemporary luxury, offering tours of beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction wooden junks. Two or three-night tours are available and customers have a wide range of cabin styles to choose from: standard, deluxe or royal.

Emeraude Classic Cruises

Tel: 04 3934 0888 www.emeraude-cruises.com This reproduction of a 19thcentury paddle steamer trawls around Halong Bay in colonial style, with onboard overnight accommodation in impeccably maintained cabins. The great food and service adds to the already beautiful setting. They also offer transfers directly from Hanoi.

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CROWNE PLAZA WEST international

$$$ 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel: 04 6270 6688 crowneplazawesthanoi.com This premier five-star property lies beside the My Dinh National Stadium and Convention Centre. Boasts two swimming pools, a spa, and a fitness centre in its 24 stories.

Daewoo Hotel

360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel: 3831 5555 www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com This enormous structure offers the most modern of amenities, and with four restaurants and two bars, the events staff is well equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National Convention Center, and a favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo even boasts an outdoor driving range. Shortly to become a Marriot property.

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3831 3333 www.fortuna.vn This 350-room four-star set up in the heart of Hanoi’s financial district has a variety of rooms on offer, a “capital lounge” and three restaurants that serve Japanese, Chinese and international cuisine. And like you’d expect, there’s a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a separate spa and treatment facility for men and women. Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business deals on rooms and spaces to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.

Hotel de l’Opera

29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 6282 5555 contact@hoteldelopera.com Resting just a step away from the Opera House, the hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.

The first boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi, the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and are complimented by two restaurants, a bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.

InterContinental Hanoi Westlake

1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho Tel: 6270 8888 www.hanoi.intercontinental.com This stunning property built over

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travel West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.

Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable, top-end accommodation and all the mod-cons make up the mix here together with the resort’s three inhouse restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering hole located on a thoroughfare over the lake. Great gym and health club.

Melia Hanoi

44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3934 3343 www.meliahanoi.com Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers and is also a popular venue for conferences and wedding receptions. State-of-the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish bars, fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house guests satisfied.

Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3822 2800 www.moevenpick-hanoi.com With its distinctive French architecture and top end service, Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi is aimed squarely at corporate travellers. An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are available to satiate their clientele while

the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range of equipment.

Massage and sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154 well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are non-smoking.

PULLMAN HOTEL

$$$$ 40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0437 330808 pullman-hanoi.com With deluxe rooms and suites, a contemporary lobby, an excellent buffet, and a la carte restaurant, this Accor group property is prestigious and close to the Old Quarter.

Sheraton

K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peaceful property features picturesque views of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes from downtown.

In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor swimming pool and great relaxation and fitness facilities, including a tennis court and spa.

There are well equipped conference rooms and a newly refurbished Executive Club Lounge.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 6919 ww.sofitel.com The finest hotel of the French colonial period is probably still the finest in today’s Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where the service is impeccable and the luxurious facilities complement the ambiance of a bygone era. Definitely the place to put the Comtessa up for a night.

Sofitel Plaza Hanoi

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh Tel: 3823 8888 Boasting Hanoi’s best views of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline. The 5-star hotel features 317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.

hanoi – mid-range 6 on Sixteen

16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem www.sixonsixteen.com Another boutique hotel to grace Hanoi’s Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with handicrafts and antique. Breakfast is

included and in the long, lounge restaurant on the second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare is served up with fresh fruit juices and Lavazza coffee.

GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Tel: 0439 286969 goldensilkhotel.com Located in the centre of the Old Quarter, this little slice of heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient restaurant, serves the finest in international and Vietnamese cuisine.

M A IS O N D ’ H A N O I HANOVA HOTEL

$$$ 35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 380999 hanovahotel.com A minute from Hoan Kiem Lake, this glowing pearl in the heart of Hanoi provides tranquility with an art gallery and piano bar.

May de Ville

24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 2222 9988 Set in the old French Quarter a short walk from the Opera House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining contemporary architecture with traditional Vietnamese style and materials, this

2006 list of the world’s top 100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular rooftop Saigon Saigon bar, and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.

elegant property has 81 well-appointed rooms including four suites.

Thang Long Opera Hotel

1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3824 4775 www.thanglongopera.com This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfortable rooms all equipped with high speed internet, bath tub and room service. They have a meeting room, which can accommodate up to 60 people, as well as a restaurant and bar downstairs.

hanoi – Budget Hanoi Backbacker’s Hostel

48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 5372 www.hanoibackpackershostel.com Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town, with bunk-style beds mixed or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus a couple of double suites from VND250,000. A place to meet like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.

HCMC - International CARAVELLE HOTEL

$$$$ 19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 234999 caravellehotel.com Winner of Robb Report’s

DUXTON HOTEL

$$$ 63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 222999 saigon.duxtonhotels.com Famous for its day–long rotating–menu buffets, the Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym, spa, and fine dining.

EQUATORIAL

$$$ 242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 0838 397777 equatorial.com/hcm This massive property boasts seven dining and entertainment outlets, a business centre, meeting rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa. The Equatorial also has an onsite casino.

HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

$$$$$ 235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1 Tel: 0839 257777 hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex offers: 14 instant offices, seven meeting rooms, a 600-capacity ballroom, spa, outdoor swimming pool, a gym, 24-hour fine dining, 24-hours room service, and limousine services.

Joseph’s Hotel Foreign-run,boutique hotel Next to the cathedral

Free wi-fi, international breakfast, spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV, multi-shower, friendly service www.josephshotel.com 5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446

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travel ECO LODGES Looking to increase your greenness and lessen your carbon footprint when travelling through Vietnam?

These eco-lodges offer environmentally friendly alternatives to standard hotels and resorts

Bloom Microventures

Soc Son Tel: 0164 387 6594 (Lain) www.bloom-microventures.org/vietnam

Forest Floor Lodge

Cat Tien National Park, Tan Phu, Dong Nai Tel: 061 366 9890 www.vietnamforesthotel.com

RIVERSIDE HOTEL INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA SAIGON

$$$$$ Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0835 209999 intercontinental.com/saigon In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, resides the Asiana with signature dining options, an innovative cocktail bar, exclusive spa and health club, together with luxury boutique arcade.

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon

$$$$ 2A–4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 233333 legendsaigon.com Immaculate architecture, spacious rooms, and a fine selection of fine dining, with buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.

NEW WORLD HOTEL

Yen Bai Tel: 04 3926 2743 www.lavievulinh.com

$$$$ 76 Le Lai, Q1 Tel: 0838 228888 saigon.newworldhotels.com Former guests include U.S. presidents — two Bushes, Clinton — and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event as well as a hotel, New World is one of the best luxury stops in town.

Mango Bay

PARK HYATT

Jungle Beach

Nha Trang Tel: 058 362 2384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com

La Vie Vu Linh

Ong lang Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 077 398 1693 w w w. m a n g o b a y phuquoc.com

Mekong Lodge

An Hoa, Dong Hoa Hiep, Cai Be, Tien Giang Tel: 3811 4863 www.mekonglodge.com

$$$$$ 2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: 0838 241234 saigon.park.hyatt.com Fabulous in style, prime in location, everything one would expect from the Hyatt. The Square One and Italian-themed Opera restaurants have garnered an excellent reputation, as has the landscaped pool.

Mia Nha Trang

Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa Tel: 0918 821633 www.mianhatrang.com

Pan Hou Eco Lodge Village Resort

Ha Giang Tel: 0219 3833 3565 www.panhou-village. com

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Tel: 058 372 8222 www.sixsenses.com Do you think you should be listed on these pages?

If so, simply email us on listings@wordvietnam. com and we’ll see what we can do. We can’t promise but we’ll try our best

$$$$$ 18–19-20 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: 0838 251417 riversidehotelsg.com This distinct French architectural wonder offers complimentary Wi-Fi, airport pickup or drop off, a 4th floor ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River Restaurant.

SHERATON

$$$$$ 88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 272828 sheraton.com/saigon Sheraton boasts one of the best locations in town, with first–class facilities, an open–air restaurant 23 floors above the city and a live music venue on the same floor.

SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA

$$$$ 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: 0838 241555 sofitel.com This 20–story building in downtown Saigon, caters to upscale business and leisure travelers seeking a classic yet contemporary stay in Saigon.

WINDSOR PLAZA

$$$ 18 An Duong Vuong, Q5 Tel: 0838 336688 windsorplazahotel.com The full ensemble with its own shopping hub (including a bank), fine dining, a sauna, health club, and superb panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest Oktoberfest in the region.

HCMC - Deluxe

$$$$ 141 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 292185 rexhotelvietnam.com Brimming with history the Rex’s open–air fifth–floor bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now fivestar property, boasts designer fashion and a shopping arcade.

Riverside Apartments

53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2 Tel: (08) 3744 4111 riverside-apartments.com Situated on the banks of the Saigon River, a 15-minute scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town, Riverside’s complementary shuttle services take you right in the city centre. With 152 fully equipped serviced apartments, the property offers special packages for short-term stay starting at VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.

$$$ 132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: 0838 299201 continentalhotel.com.vn This charming old hotel has been fêted in literature and in film. In the heart of Saigon, this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture .

HOTEL MAJESTIC

$$$ 1 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 0838 295517 majesticsaigon.com.vn Since 1925 this vintage hotel encompasses the beauty that is Vietnam. Overlooking the Saigon River, its unique atmosphere makes it that much more majestic.

MA MAISON BOUTIQUE HOTEL

$$$ 656/52 Cach Mang Thang 8, Q3, Tel: 0838 460263 mamaison.vn The hotel features 12 luxurious rooms designed to capture the warmth of the French countryside. The Lit-

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182 | Word September 2013

cured gardens and a view that overlook the bank of the Saigon River, this is truly someplace special.

NORFOLK HOTEL

THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL

$$$ 117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0838 295368 norfolkhotel.com.vn Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique business hotel is located minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and is renowned for its fabulous steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.

NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE

$$$ 167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel: 0838 224866 novotel-saigon-centre.com Novotel Saigon Centre has a contemporary feel, an international buffet — The Square — a rooftop bar, and a wellness centre including a swimming pool, gym, sauna and spa.

STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL

$$$ 144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0839 998888, starcitysaigon.vn The newly-built hotel is near Tan Son Nhat International Airport. With spectacular city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming pool, there is little reason not to choose this shining star.

HCMC - Mid-Range ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON

CONTINENTAL REX HOTEL

tle Bistro Restaurant serves Asian and European signature dishes for in-house guests.

$$ 133 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: 0838 225914 kimdohotel.com Perched on one of the city’s major boulevards, the brightly-lit exterior guarantees that you’ll never be lost at night. Enjoy executive jacuzzis and use online booking for discounted promotions.

LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2

$$$ 46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel: 0838 227926 lanlanhotel.com.vn Centrally located near the Ben Thanh Market, the two hotels are juxtaposed on opposite sides of Thu Khoa Huan. Lan Lan 1 and 2 offer a homely feel at affordable prices.

THAO DIEN VILLAGE

$$ 195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0837 442222 thaodienvillage.com A colonial–style hotel and spa offers fine Italian, Thai and Japanese dining. Mani-

$$$ 133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh, Phu Nhuan, Tel: 0862 569966 alcovehotel.com.vn Architectural elegance, and timeless style, this literal library themed inn is nestled in a charming and quiet neighborhood. Their fine selection of literature waits to be read, atop the rooftop terrace.

HCMC - Budget DUC VUONG HOTEL

$ 195 Bui Vien, Q1 Tel: 0839 206992 ducvuonghotel.com Free Wi–Fi offered in every room. Low prices, friendly staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps from the backpacker’s area.

DUNA HOTEL

$ 167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1 Tel: 0838 373699 dunahotel.com With its communal kitchen and a TV room, a stay here will make you appreciate the pleasure of being a guest rather than just a customer.

HONG HOA HOTEL

$ 185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel: 0838 361915 honghoavn.com It’s always hard to get a room here without booking, and no wonder, since this tucked-away little spot is on a par with anything else in the area — attractive, comfortable, friendly and more.

SINH HUONG HOTEL

$ 157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: 3827 4648 sinhhuonghotel.com.vn Free breakfast, free computer usage, motorbike rental, and discounts for long term stay, the Sinh Huong Hotel is one of the few guesthouses to accept credit cards.

Hoi An & Danang An Bang Beach Retreat

An Bang Beach, Hoi An www.anbangbeachretreat. com A serene barefoot-luxe destination where guests kick off their shoes, unwind and take it all in. Located 50 meters from the beach along a sandy path, An Bang Beach Retreat is an intimate beach hideaway with a castaway vibe: its

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four houses are set in tropical gardens, tucked away in the charming fishing village of An Bang Beach, 4km from Hoi An, Vietnam’s premier destination. Sunbathe on the day beds, sip cocktails in the landscaped gardens, swim in the turquoise waters and soak up the Hoi An sunset.

CUA DAI

$ 18A Cua Dai, Hoi An Tel: 5103 862231 hotelcuadai-hoian.com/ Hoi An’s best kept secret is a family–run hotel with a charming colonial air located between the town and the beach, complete with a pool garden and air–conditioned rooms.

DANANG BEACH RESORT

$$$ Son Tra – Dien Ngoc, Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Tel: 5113 961800 danangbeachresort.com.vn 20 minutes from Danang airport, this resort is comprised of six villas, a 33–floor twin tower, three five–star hotels, a convention / commercial centre, a 36–hole golf course and a culture village.

FURAMA RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ 68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang, Tel: 5113 847888 furamavietnam.com This venue has stunning beachside location. The smallest room measures 40 square meters — with a general air of refined luxury, as typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant and the Lagoon poolside bar.

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da Nang, Tel: 5113 981234 danang.regency.hyatt.com The Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is beachfront with a stunning view of the Marble Mountains. There are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.

INTERCONTINENTAL DANANG SUN PENINSULA RESORT

$$$$ Bai Bac, Son Tra Peninsula, Danang , Tel: 8884 246835 intercontinental.com/danang With its own private bay on the Son Tra Peninsula, the Bill Bensley-designed hotel is nestled within one the region’s most exquisite locations.

LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI $$$ Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui Thanh, Quang Nam Tel: 5103 545105 domainedetamhai.com

travel Located to the south of Hoi An, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai houses a dozen modern villas with private gardens. There are endless beaches and an abundance of fresh seafood.

LIFE RESORT HOI AN

$$$ 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An, Tel: 5103 914555 life-resorts.com This award–winning resort is located close to the bustling Old Town. With an emphasis on wellness and pampering, its spa combines traditional Chinese medicine, tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.

MERCURE DANANG

$$$ Lot A1 Zone Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau, Danang Tel: 5113 797777 mercure-danang.com Located on Green Island, in the heart of Da Nang city, the Mercure Danang offers modern style reflecting local Vietnamese culture. All day dining is offered at their brasserie and Chinese restaurant.

THE NAM HAI

$$$$ Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam Tel: 5103 940000 ghmhotels.com Includes three massive swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant spa on a lotus pond. Each massive room has its own espresso machine, pre–programmed iPod and both indoor and outdoor showers.

VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH Resort and Spa

Cua Dai Beach Tel: 5103 927040 victoriahotels.asia This charming resort replicates a traditional fishing village, ponds, and village houses, all upon a private beach. Eat at the Annam Asian restaurant or relax with Thai or Swedish massage.

Hue & Quang Binh ANGSANA LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien Hue, Tel: 0543 695800 angsana.com/en/lang_co Located on Vietnam’s South Central Coast, Angsana Lang Co commands an unrivalled beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional Vietnamese design encompasses the resort’s contemporary buildings and chic interiors.

BANYAN TREE LANG CO

$$$$ Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien, Hue, Tel: 0543 695888 banyantree.com/en/lang_co Built on a crescent bay, The Banyan Tree offers privacy and unparalleled exclusivity with all-pool villas reflecting the cultural and historical legacy of past Vietnamese dynastic periods.

HUE BACKPACKERS’ HOSTEL

$$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 0543 826567 hanoibackpackershostel. com Housed in a breezy, colonial villa complete with bunk beds, in same or mixedsexed dorms, pool tables, and darts. This is the place to meet international travelers.

IMPERIAL HUE

$$$ 10 Hung Vuong, Hue, Tel: 0543 882222 imperial-hotel.com.vn The Forbidden City meets modern luxury. This high– rise hotel has great city views, a fine selection of restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous Royal Spa.

LA RESIDENCE

$$$$ 5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 837475 la–residence–hue.com Built around the former colonial governor’s mansion, with a nautical modern style, this is one of Hue’s

unique experiences. Throw in an excellent restaurant with river views and you’re in paradise.

PHUONG HOANG HOTEL

$ 48/3 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: 0543 826736 hoangphuonghotel.com A budget option hotel, the Phuong Hoang offers reliable service and comfort, in additional to superb views of the Perfume River.

Nha Trang EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX SENSES SPA

$$$$ Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 522222 sixsenses.com/evason-anamandara-nha-trang/ 2.6 hectares of private beachside gardens and villa–style accommodation furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool bar and the signature Six Senses Spa.

JUNGLE BEACH RESORT

$ Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 622384 junglebeachvietnam.com On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this budget place is all about hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.

novotel-nhatrang.com This four-star hotel with 154 guestrooms, all with a terrace and sea view. Complete with a pool, spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up to 200 delegates.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY Ninh Van Bay

$$$$ Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0583 728222 sixsenses.com/sixsensesninhvanbay/ The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.

The location is stunning, on a bay accessible only by boat.

SHERATON NHA TRANG Hotel and Spa

$$$$ 26 – 28 Tran Phu, Tel: 0583 880000 sheraton.com/nhatrang A sleek beach-front property with six restaurants and bars, the Shine Spa with nine treatment rooms, an outdoor swimming pool a fitness centre, a kid’s club, business centre, and a cooking school.

SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA

$$$ 12–14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0583 820999 sunrisenhatrang.com.vn Awarded in Expedia’s World’s Top one percent of hotels 2009, the Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel and

Spa is ideal for the diamond lifestyle. All rooms have a view of the sea.

WHALE ISLAND RESORT

$$ Tel: 0583 840501 whaleislandresort.com This remote and unspoiled island 60km north of Nha Trang is a stylish getaway, with traditional bamboo bungalows on the beach and an excellent seafood restaurant.

Phan Thiet & Mui Ne ALLEZ BOO BEACH Resort and Spa

$$$$ 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0623 743777 allezboo.com This resort offers exotic Bali–style, thatched roof “honeymoon” villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms, fresh seafood, Vietnamese cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing and parasailing.

BLUE OCEAN

$$$$ 54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: 0623 847322 life-resorts.com Under Life Resorts management, the Blue Ocean Resort includes a large swimming pool and swim–up pool bar, a children’s activity play-

ground, and an Irish bar.

COCO BEACH

$$$$ 58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 847111 cocobeach.net With charming wooden bungalows, a private beach, a swimming pool (both with attached bars) and a French restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who opened it in 1995.

MIA RESORT MUI NE

$$$ 24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Tel: 0623 847440 / 2 miamuine.com Choose between bungalows with either open-air bathrooms or enclosed gardens, or beachfront bungalows overlooking the East Sea.

PRINCESS D’ANNAM Resort and Spa

$$$$ Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: 0623 682222 princessannam.com Set on Ke Ga Bay, with a sumptuous spa, original architecture, eight swimming pools and 24–hour butler service, this is one of the most well-appointed resorts in the country.

VICTORIA PHAN THIET Resort and Spa

$$$$ Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet, Tel: 0623 813000

MIA RESORT NHA TRANG

$$$$ Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong, Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel: 0918 821633 mianhatrang.com Nestled in the mountain pass between Cam Ranh Airport and Nha Trang, this sanctuary has its own private beach. With ecofriendly principles, Mia boasts rooftops studded with manicured grass and shrubs.

NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

$$$ 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel: 0586 256900

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{ Travel Promos } Promotions of the Month Saigon Getaway Offer @Sheraton Saigon sheraton.com Until the end of September, enjoy the hotel’s spacious Premier Deluxe room at rates starting at VND3.5 million++ per night. Or if you like, stay two nights at the VND4.3 million++ a night level and get the third night free.

Corporate Splendor in Dalat @ Dalat Edensee dalatedensee.com Edensee Resort and Spa is introducing a new corporate package that offers businesses a one-night stay, full-day use of conference rooms, two coffee breaks and a sixcourse or buffet style lunch for VND1.89 million per delegate. Corporate clients have a chance between various stunning and imposinglynamed conference rooms: the Germania, Baroness, Loreley or Baron. The resort also has an 80-person cinema for the most demanding of corporate presentations.

Romantic Getaway @ Banyan Tree Lang Co banyantree.com Designed to offer absolute privacy and exclusivity, Banyan Tree Lang Co is nestled in a unique crescent bay framed by a threekilometre beach on the Central Coast of Vietnam. A 60-minute car ride from Da Nang International airport, the resort is offering a romantic getaway package for two from now until Dec. 19. Costing VND19,656,000 for a two-night stay in a Lagoon pool villa, the package includes daily breakfast, a romantic dinner by the beach, a one time classic rejuvenation spa treatment for two and airport transfers. For

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information email reservationslangco@banyantree.com or call (054) 369 5888.

Five Star Family Escapes @ Angsana Lang Co angsana.com Central Vietnam’s five-star luxury gem Angsana is offering their Family Escapade package this summer, helping families soak up the very last drop of tropical sun. The offer includes a two-night package for VND10.5 million++ from now until the end of October, with minimum bookings of two nights. Escape with the whole family to central Vietnam, and enjoy the fading days of summer. For more information or to make a reservation, contact Angsana Lang Co on (054) 369 5800 by or email on reservations-langco@ angsana.com.

Summer Deal @ Allez Boo Resort allezbooresort.com One of Mui Ne’s best-known

four-star resorts is running their summer promotion until Oct. 12. With rooms going from just VND1,310,000, the deal includes breakfast, service charge and tax, a 20 percent discount of all food and beverage, spa treatments and jeep tours, as well as full use of the property’s extensive facilities. There’s a VND200,000 per night surcharge for anyone booking for Friday or Saturday night stays, otherwise the deal remains good until the start of the high season.

Soft Opening Special at Moevenpick @ Moevenpick Hanoi moevenpick-hotels.com/hanoi Until Sep. 30 those who book qualifying corporate events at Moevenpick Hanoi can win free trips to Danang, Ho Chi Minh City and Phuket. The winners of the “Bring success to your business and win amazing trips” programme will be announced on the fourth of October.

Choose a meeting package

for a minimum of 25 people for prices ranging from VND380,000++ per person to VND680,000++ per person, or a special resident package for a minimum 10 rooms with the rate of VND2,100,000++ per room per night.

Call (04) 3822 2800, ext. 6138 for more details

Barefoot Bliss @ Mango Bay Phu Quoc mangobayphuquoc.com Mango Bay Phu Quoc is offering the best way to go barefoot this summer, with their latest Stay Three, Pay Two deal. The package promises a stay in the resort’s peak of luxurious barefoot chic with the Plantation Bungalow.

The rooms, with stunning 60sqm interiors and beautiful hand-carved, four-poster beds, mostly also have direct access to the beach and serene sea views through natural gardens. Best of all, the rooms have no TV or telephone, ensuring that guests experience the most tranquil and peaceful rest that nature can offer.

travel victoriahotels.asia Another beachfront Victoria chain, the thatched–roof bungalows and family villas are set in exotic gardens with an infinity swimming pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and jacuzzi.

with a gorgeous beachside location, the bungalows are made of rammed earth, no TVs or telephones (although Wi-Fi is available). Excellent sunsets from the beach bar.

VILLA ARIA MUI NE

CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL

$$$ 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ham Tien, Mui Ne Tel: 0623 741660 villaariamuine.com Villa Aria Mui Ne provides warm service, 22 spacious guestrooms, and one suite.

The resort includes a pool overlooking the beachfront, and an alfresco dining lounge serving authentic Phan Thiet cuisine

Phu Quoc BEACH CLUB RESORT

$$ Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To, Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 980998 beachclubvietnam.com A quaint and popular island guesthouse featuring a beachside restaurant, and includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and tours are easily arranged.

Discount rates during rainy season.

BO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Bay, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: 0773 986142 boresort.com An eco-lodge with no televisions or air–conditioning, 18 bungalows offer views of the beach and bay. The beachside restaurant serves traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a classic ‘French touch.’

CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA $$$$ Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Tel: 0773 995895 centarahotelsresorts.com This 37–bungalow boutique resort provides a serene atmosphere along with first– class spa treatment and a Mediterranean–themed restaurant.

LA VERANDA

Sapa $$ Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203 871218 catcathotel.com The best view in town from its bar restaurant, the Cat Cat Guesthouse is paradise at very reasonable rates.

The rooms have big windows, balconies, and log fireplaces.

TOPAS ECOLODGE

$$ 24 Muong Hoa, Sapa Tel: 0203 872404 topasecolodge.com For the environmentally conscientious, 25 individual lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also organises treks and bicycle tours.

VICTORIA SAPA

$$$ Tel: 0203 871522 victoriahotels.asia Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the Victoria include satellite TV, in–room coffeemakers, a hilltop health club, tennis court, and pool.

The entire resort has panoramic views of the town below.

The Village Noshery 42 Cau May, Sapa www.thevillagenoshery.com Well-placed in the heart of Sapa’s downtown district, The Village Noshery mountain lodge is the perfect place to dine, stay and hang out while you are in Sapa. Step inside to discover an oasis of comfort and relax in the large restaurant spaces decorated with handcrafted art installations. Here it’s all about good food and quality service at very reasonable prices.

Vung Tau & Ho Tram BINH AN VILLAGE

$$$$ Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc Tel: 0773 982988 laverandaresorts.com Among exotic greenery and a white sand beach, the M Gallery brand has beautifully–designed rooms, a stunning swimming pool, an all–natural spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restaurant.

$$$$ 1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 351553 binhanvillage.com Perched on a cliff face, this Imperial Vietnam-styled resort has traditionally designed and furnished rooms and villas, seaside pools, fine dining, and a bar strategically located to watch the sunset.

MANGO BAY

CON DAO RESORT

$$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc, Tel: 0903 382207 mangobayphuquoc.com An eco–friendly approach

$$ Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con Dao, Vung Tau Tel: 0643 830939 condaoresort.vn

Seated at the heart of Con Son Island this beachfront resort has mini-golf, kayaking, and sightseeing tours via trams.

HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND SPA

$$$$ Tel: 0643 781525 hotramresort.com This attractive property is the ideal getaway from Ho Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa and two swimming pools.

HO TRAM SANCTUARY

$$$$ Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau, Tel: 0643 781631 sanctuary.com.vn The spacious villas come with their own pool and have direct access to the beach. Extras include tennis courts, a mini supermarket, and cycling and motorbike tours.

REX HOTEL

$$ 1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau Tel: 0643 852135 rexhotelvungtau.com Built in 1972, this popular seafront hotel still maintains its 1970s–style architecture and room fittings. Amenities include a pool, two bars, a massage parlour and a karaoke lounge.

SIX SENSES CON DAO

$$$$ Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel : 0643 831222 sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao/ 50 wooden-framed bamboo pool villas stretch along the curved bay, each with an unencumbered view of the sea. Also has a fitness centre, two restaurants, diving facilities and free bicycle usage.

travel services Buffalo Tours Agency (BTA)

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi, Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702 travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn A boutique Travel Agency at the service of all Vietnamese and expatriate residents in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free travel around the world and in Vietnam, with the highest standards of customer care. This premium Travel Agency has been created to help travelers select their destinations and organize their trips, take care of the time-consuming procedures and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable and successful. BTA customizes leisure and corporate travel plans while offering a selected range of small group tours.

Want to be in touch with what’s happening in this city? Check us out online at

Exotissimo

26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3828 2150 9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5555 www.exotissimo.com A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with an extensive operational track record in the Indochina region and beyond. Providing up-market services, Exotissimo brings their clients close to culture through personalised tours. Also find travel desks at the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which are open on weekends and holidays.

Handspan Travel

80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2828 www.handspan.com Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular and isolated locations in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable and responsible tourism initiatives. Also provides to excursions to more wellworn destinations.

HG Travel

47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3944 8844, www.hgtravel. com Travel company specialising in small-group tours around Vietnam and further afield in Indochina.

Is also the sole representative agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities in Africa — www.kenya-airways. com), American Airlines (www.aa.com) and Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).

Indochina Land

61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2852 www.indochina-land.com Indochina Land is a French local travel agency for expatriates and tourists who want to see northern Vietnam in a personal and tailored way. Think small knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese and French who share their passion for discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on freedom, family, health trips and classic home stays. They will show you around Ha Giang, too.

Intrepid Travel Vietnam

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh Tel: 0904 193308 www.intrepidtravel.com/ vietnamsales Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks and small group adventures. With expert

guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you up close to Vietnam’s people, cuisine, history and culture.

Syrena Cruises

51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 7214 www.syrenacruises.com If you’re thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while enjoying luxury comfort, Syrena Cruises could be the quencher you’re looking for. Forget drinking games and backpackers by relaxing on one of the two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone, as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious cabins and suites are all ready for action. All you have to do is decide on how long you want to holiday for.

B U F FA L O AGENCY

T O U RS

81 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 9170 buffalotours.com.vn This premium travel agency helps travelers select their destinations and organize their trips. From corporate travel to small group tours, explore the world or Vietnam.

DALAT EASY RIDER

70 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat dalat-easyrider.com Motorbike tours from over 70 guides, all speaking English. Tours include Dalat, the Central Highlands, Phan Thiet and Nha Trang. Note: insurance is not included.

Exotissimo

41, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel (08) 3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19 exotissimo.com A reliable and experienced travel company operating through Southeast Asia, Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the region, many including insights into culinary customs, handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.

FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

121 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7744 flightravelco.com Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel insurance, to corporate companies, family and individual travelers.

FLY VIETNAM

flyvietnam.com They provide flight information, pricing, availability and booking for domestic and international travel, in addition to railway reservation, hotel bookings, holiday packages, buses,

and car rentals, travel insurance, coach tours and visas.

INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel: 0904 193308 intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales An international travel company operating in Vietnam since 1992. They offer daily tours, short getaways, and small group excursions throughout Vietnam and beyond.

MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne, Tel: 0908 400108 mantasailing.org Vietnam’s first and only sailing school offers individually tailored training programmes for individual clients and groups. Services include recreational sailing, supervised dinghy rental, sail training, racing, wake boarding and beachside accommodation.

ONE WORLD TRADING SERVICE TOURISM Co.

28/4 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel: (08) 6675 2620 oneworldvn.com A local inbound tour operator specializing in boutique tours around Vietnam. They provide economy, luxury, packages and tailor-made tours, which include the flexibility for customers to explore at their own pace.

TERRAVERDE

12/20 Nguyen Canh Di, Ward 4, Tan Binh District Tel: (08) 3984 4754 terraverdetravel.com If you like cycling through the Mekong Delta, trekking in the highlands, or lazing in a junk on Ha Long Bay — all while making a difference in people’s lives — then this company will suit you well.

TU TRAVEL

60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho City Tel: 0713 752436 tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn Services include trips to the Mekong Feeling floating hotel, cruises along the Mekong Delta, and speedboats between Chau Doc, Phnom Penh, Saigon, Cantho and Chau Doc.

VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1 Tel: 01222 993585 vietnamvespaadventure. com Vespa Adventure offers multi–day tours of southern and coastal Vietnam on the back of a luxury motorbike powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead the way.

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Độ Cao Mới Cuộc thi chạy bộ cầu thang sẽ quay trở lại Hà Nội trong tháng này. Sau đây là một số lời khuyên cho những ai muốn chinh phục tòa nhà 72 tầng cao nhất Việt Nam này.

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V

ào ngày 15/09, tòa nhà Landmark 72 – còn được biết dưới tên Keangnam Tower ở Hà Nội sẽ tổ chức lần thứ hai cuộc thi chạy bộ cầu thang. Suzy Walsham và Thomas Dold – những người đang giữ vị trí cao trong bảng xếp hạng của cuộc thi chạy bộ cầu thang thế giới – đã có một cuộc trò chuyện với Word, để đưa ra một vài lời khuyên và nên chuẩn bị như thế nào.

Một vài người cho rằng việc chạy lên dốc cầu thang giống như một cuộc marathon chạy hết sức trong vòng 10 đến 30 phút. Chân và những bộ phần cần thiết khác sẽ phải hoạt động hết mức để làm hài hòa khối lượng axit lactic tích tụ trong cơ thể. Walsham chia sẻ mặc dù chạy bộ cầu thang không được phân loại như là một môn thể thao rất cần sức bền, nhưng “chắc chắn nó có cảm giác như thế” Cô nói thêm: "Khi tất cả các cơ bắp trong cơ thể bạn đang la hét kêu dừng lại và trái tim của bạn có cảm giác sẽ bật ra khỏi lồng ngực, tinh thần bạn lúc ấy phải mạnh mẽ và cố gắng đẩy những đau đớn thể xác ta khỏi tâm trí."

Dold đồng ý với nhận định này, anh cũng tin rằng chạy bộ cầu thang là một môn thể thao phù hợp cho thế kỷ 21.

"Các thành phố đang mở rộng," anh giải thích, "và như vậy là lượng tòa nhà chọc trời - mỗi tuần sẽ có thêm những nơi mới cho

chạy bộ cầu thang và những nơi dành cho chạy đất bằng sẽ giảm đi."

"Tôi nghĩ rằng sẽ có nhiều cuộc thi chạy bộ cầu thang hơn trong những năm tới," ông tiếp tục. "Nhưng quan trọng nhất là người dân sử dụng cầu thang cho luyện tập hàng ngày, để được khỏe mạnh trong một xã hội mà người ta ngồi và làm việc trên máy tính ngày càng nhiều hơn. Vì vậy, hoàn toàn khuyên mọi người nên sử dụng thang bộ hơn là thang máy.”

Luyện Tập và Chuẩn Bị

Vì vậy, làm thế nào để luyện tập cho các sự kiện như vậy trong một đất nước mà không khí nóng ẩm có thể giết chết bạn, và trong những thành phố chật hẹp mà người ta phải xây nhiều tầng hầm để đậu xe? Đây là một bản tóm tắt các lời khuyên của họ.

Không khí nóng ẩm. Ra đường sớm, trước 6 giờ sáng nếu có thể và uống thật nhiều nước trong khi luyện tập để hạ nhiệt cơ thể và thay thế lượng nước đã mất qua mồ hôi. Đừng uống quá nhiều thức uống có cồn trước buổi luyện tập.

Luyện tập chạy bộ cầu thang. Tìm một tòa nhà văn phòng, bãi đậu xe nhiều tầng hay một chung cư có cầu thang. Nếu không được, có thể sử dụng máy mô phỏng chạy cầu thang trong phòng tập thể dục.

Nhưng nếu không thích phòng tập thể dục? Tốt thôi, làm theo cácwh của bạn, sử dụng cầu thang tại công ty bạn, chung cư hay nhà ở. Bạn cũng có thể thử tập động tác nhảy ngồi hay động tác nhảy bật một chân để luyện tập.

Phục hồi. Luôn luôn có một thức uống bù và giữ nước (nó bao gồm muối, đường và chất điện giải – pha chế theo cách riêng của bạn bằng cách trộn muối bù nước từ các hiệu thuốc với nước) sau khi luyện tập để tiếp nhiên liệu và nhớ ăn nhiều tinh bột trong các bữa ăn sau phiên tập. Massage cơ là một cách hợp lý để hỗ trợ việc phục hồi. Giãn xả cơ sau khi luyện tập là điều cần thiết để tránh bị thương.

Mức độ. Hai buổi chạy cầu thang mỗi tuần, tăng số lượng lên trong những tuần trước khi đến cuộc thi. Hoàn tất buổi chạy cầu thang cuối cùng bốn ngày trước cuộc đua. Trong tuần, kết hợp với 1 hoặc 2 lượt tập cao độ (30 phút) cho chân như chạy bộ, đạp xe hoặc dùng máy mô phỏng chạy cầu thang tại phòng tập. Tập nhẹ nhàng hơn vào tuần cuối, vẫn giữ cường độ nhưng giảm số lượng.

Chế độ ăn uống. Không cần nhất quyết phải thay đổi chế độ ăn uống, nhưng tránh thức uống có cồn. Các loại hạt, trái cây tươi và rau quả rất có ích. Tránh thức ăn nhiều gia vị và nước sốt đầy đạm 48 giờ trước cuộc đua. Ăn một số đồ có chứa tinh bột vào đêm trước cuộc đua nhưng không được quá nhiều chất đạm. Rất quan trọng để giữ nước cho cơ thể, nên uống nhiều nước.

Lời khuyên cho các cuộc đua. Ăn một thanh kẹo hoặc một quả chuối một vài giờ trước khi thi.

Mặc thoải mái, nhẹ, quần áo không sợi tổng hợp mà bạn đã mặc trong các buổi luyện tập trước đây. Âm nhạc giúp giữ cho tốc độ. Sau cùng, chạy đua theo cách của riêng bạn và giữ vững tốc độ. Marc Forster-Pert Để biết thêm thông tin, xin ghé website: hanoirun.com. Không còn nhận đăng ký, tuy nhiên bạn có thể đăng ký được bằng cách gửi email về david@sportingrepublic.com

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Royal City Katie Jacobs đi tìm một khu đô thị mới hoàn hảo.

Liệu khu Royal City của Vincom ở Thanh Xuân mới đi vào hoạt động có lọt vào mắt cô không? Ảnh bởi Francis Roux

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hững tòa nhà trắng chói lóa đứng sừng sững, bao trùm lên một khoảng không và trái ngược lại với bầu trời ảm đạm và những bụi bặm đến từ những tòa nhà bên cạnh. Các khu chung cư với cửa sổ tối màu giống hệt nhau xếp thành một hàng dài, trông như đang nhìn chăm chú vào một cái sân rộng phía trước mặt nơi một chiếc xe ngựa oai nghiêm được kéo bởi bốn chú ngựa đẹp mắt, đặt trên một đài phun nước để chào đón những vị khách tới thăm. Một khu vườn nhỏ với những bức tượng điêu khắc theo kiểu Hy Lạp – La Mã bao chung quanh tạo nên cảm giác sảng khoái, giải tỏa khỏi cảm giác nặng nề mà một chuỗi các công trình bê tông gần đó mang lại.

Chào mừng bạn đến với Royal City, trung tâm mua sắm lớn của tập đoàn Vingroup, và theo như lời quảng bá là “một khu tổ hợp đô thị hoàn hảo trong một không gian xanh và sạch.” Royal City không chỉ hướng tới một sự hoàn hảo, mà còn được quảng bá là một tổ hợp giải trí và nhà ở lớn nhất Hà Nội với kiến trúc thân thiện với môi trường. Trong một thế giới đô thị hóa nhanh như hiện này, những tổ hợp nhà ở mật độ cao như Royal City đang được nhận định là mang tới một tương lai tươi sáng cho sự phát triển bền vững của các thành phố lớn.

“Trung tâm thương mại Vincom Royal City là

điểm đến mua sắm, giải trí lý tưởng cho những người dân Hà Nội, nơi bạn không thể không đến,” Lê Thị Thu Thủy, phó chủ tịch kiêm giám đốc điều hành của tập đoàn Vingroup, tại buổi lễ khai trương ngày 26 tháng 7. Thực tế đúng như lời nói đó, vào một ngày mưa trong tòa nhà thương mại bốn tầng ở đây, có vẻ như một nửa dân số Hà Nội đồng ý rằng đó là điểm đến lý tưởng. Tuy nhiên, khái niệm “tổ hợp đô thị hoàn hảo” hoàn toàn là chủ quan – những nghiên cứu về thiết kế đô thị hiện nay đều nhất trí rằng điều quan trọng nhất là những khu đô thị nên có sự hài hòa gắn kết về mặt xã hội với một môi trường bền vững. Tóm lại, chúng cần làm cho người ta cảm thấy hạnh phúc, hứng khởi và an toàn, đồng thời những tác động về môi trường được giảm thiểu tối đa. Thay vì việc những tòa nhà là yếu tố quyết định cho một không gian, những nhà thiết kế đô thị tiến bộ hướng tới tạo ra những không gian có thể bị điều chỉnh bởi con người. Vậy yếu tố nào của Royal City làm nên một “tổ hợp đô thị hoàn hảo”?

Cuộc sống, Thiết kế và Không gian

Một vài vị khách dừng lại để chụp những bức hình dường như không thể cưỡng nổi cạnh vườn hoa, những âm thanh từ tòa nhà đang xây vang dội lại khoảng không. Những tòa nhà ở đây bao gồm 2.500 căn hộ riêng biệt – chúng tôi được biết rằng

70 phần trăm số đó đã được bán. Tuy nhiên, vì cửa sổ màu đen và công trường đang xây dựng, phần lớn chúng trông như không có người ở. Mặc dù số lượng người dày đặc ở khu mua sắm dưới hầm, khu tổ hợp này vẫn chưa phát triển được tính chất riêng của nó. Sự cuốn hút như những mô hình món ăn đường phố, cộng với những cốc trà đá trên vỉa hè, những chiếc xích lô được trang trí và những cây cọ bằng nhựa tạo nên một cảm giác ở công viên Disney hơn là một nơi tạo ra “một cuộc sống xanh và thông minh.”

“Những nhà thiết kế đô thị nên bắt đầu với cuộc sống của người dân và sau đó mới là các tòa nhà,” nhà thiết kế đô thị có tiếng tăm Jan Gehl giải thích. Ông cũng cho rằng không phải những tòa nhà, mà là không gian giữa chúng tạo nên một nơi giao thoa giữa sự phát triển bền vững của xã hội với hội nhập về văn hóa nơi người ta muốn được sống. Hà Nội, một thành phố ở đó cuộc sống trên đường phố là nét đặc sắc tạo nên một văn hóa có thể được thử nghiêm theo triết lý của Fehl. Sau khi đưa vào hoạt động toàn bộ, Royal City sẽ có những khu vui chơi và 7.000m2 không gian xanh cho giải trí và thư giãn. Những dịch vụ khác như trường học, siêu thị sẽ mang tới một cơ hội để một cộng đồng sôi động và mới mẻ ở đây phát triển. Điều quan trọng là Royal City có tiềm năng để mang sự náo nhiệt của Hà Nội và sử dụng nó để tạo ra một không gian đa dạng và thú vị cho con người ở những nơi công cộng giữa những tòa chung cư cao vút. Một khi những việc xây dựng đã đi vào ổn định và người ta muốn chuyển vào những chung cư đó, Vingroup hi vọng sẽ phát triển nơi này thành một khu vực đa chức năng có thể tổ chức được các hoạt động cả trong nhà và ngoài trời.

Tìm kiếm môi trường xanh

Trong cuốn sách “Hướng tới những cộng đồng bền vững”, Mark Roseland lập luận rằng sự phát triển bền vững và thiết kế đô thị đã trở nên song hành với nhau. Tuy nhiên, thiết kế được những phần thân thiện với môi trường thì dễ – việc đưa những tư tưởng đó vào hiện thực là một thử thách, đặc biệt trong những công trình tiêu tốn nhiều năng lượng và thải ra nhiều rác như những khu mua sắm.

“Royal City được xây dựng theo những tiêu chuẩn kiến trúc thân thiện với môi trường,” Vingroup tuyên bố, mặc dù không biết liệu điều này có bao gồm cả những chiếc ti vi nhiều màn hình hay khu vực trượt băng của họ.

Giám đốc Patrick Formigé của Site Asia, công ty thiết kế cho Royal City nói “Ý tưởng thiết kế ban đầu bao gồm những chức năng như điều hòa tổng, chức năng cách nhiệt cao cấp để giảm việc tiêu thụ năng lượng tới mức thấp nhất. Tuy nhiên, việc áp dụng những chức năng này rất khó bởi những trở ngại về giá cả.”

Mặc dù những hệ thống tiết kiệm năng lượng ban đầu có giá thành đắt hơn, việc giảm tiêu tốn năng lượng mang lại sự tiết kiệm một cách lâu dài.

May mắn rằng “giá cả năng lượng tại Việt Nam hiện vẫn tương đối thấp,” Formigé tiếp tục và trước khi giá điện tăng mạnh, những nhà phát triển vẫn tiếp tục nói – thay vì áp dụng những kỹ thuật tiết kiệm năng lượng. Ở những nơi thiếu hành động, lời nói thường có thừa – Vingroup ít nhất cũng đang nói về sự phát triển môi trường bền vững ở Hà Nôi. Mặc dù kế hoạch của Royal City tạo ra một “không gian xa hoa trong một khung cảnh xanh và sạch” có lẽ chưa được thực hiện đầy đủ, chúng xứng đáng được ghi nhận đã cho thấy cuộc hội thoại mới mẻ về một tòa nhà xanh trên quy mô lớn có ý nghĩa thế nào với một thành phố.

Có một sự đồng lòng giữa các nhà quy hoạch

đô thị là mức độ dày đăc, không gian đa chức năng là cách tiếp cận bền vững tới cuộc sống đô thị hơn là sự mở rộng phát triển ở ngoại ô. Mặc dù những ảnh hưởng về môi trường chịu ảnh hưởng lớn từ những thiết kế kiến trúc và nguyên liệu của tòa nhà, việc tiêu thụ năng lượng và tạo ra rác thải ở những tòa nhà chung cư nhìn tổng thể là thấp hơn. Hơn thế nữa, việc sử phương tiện giao thông và xả khói thải động cơ có thể được giảm bằng cách khuyến khích người ta giải trí tại nơi họ sống.

Royal City chưa đạt tới sự hoàn hảo mà nó đang tìm kiếm. Tuy nhiên với thời gian và sự tham gia của con người, nó có tiềm năng để trở thành một cộng đồng và một trung tâm tràn đầy sinh lực để kết nối mọi người từ khắp nơi trong thành phố.

Royal City nằm ở 72A Nguyễn Trãi, Thanh Xuân, Hà Nội.

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The final say

It’s a Numbers Game In Vietnam, there is an obsession with lucky numbers, unlucky numbers, bad dates and good dates. Derek Milroy admits he is also bewitched. Photo by Kyle Phanroy

F

rom the moment I uttered the phrase, “Oh my god, what an ugly number,” I knew then that I was hooked and wondered — how the hell did this happen?

I remember I first encountered this national phenomena of ‘beautiful’ phone numbers when I met the unlucky woman who is now my wife. She said: “Oh no, you will have to change this number. It is very ugly.”

Apparently any mobile phone number starting 012 just will not do, so if you own one of these types you should invest in a more attractive number, or else you will lose face — especially in front of Vietnamese friends who will tut accordingly.

So I had a spanking new number, which I admit is a little more attractive on the eye — one digit shorter and much easier to remember — but what makes it so beautiful?

The Eye of the Beholder Everyone has their own rules on this thing.

“Many people love a beautiful phone number,” explains Nga Phan. “If they have a certain pattern like 99999 or 898989, a phone number like that could cost billions of VND. But the lucky number to have for your phone number is 393939. So it is not only a lucky number, it is easy to remember.”

Talking of investing in a new number, it might seem a strange concept to a foreigner just arriving in Vietnam, but that’s what you have to do. Some numbers are cheap, though, at about VND100,000, but at the other extreme a large number of VIPs pay billions of VND. Yep, over VND1 billion for a bloody phone number. That is correct.

I wondered why all phone shops list their numbers so invitingly.

And Vietnam’s high-rollers are snapping up many of the billion-dong numbers from the nation’s big phone providers.

“There are different ranges of Vertu mobile phones and luxury cars, but a VIP mobile phone number is unique. I wouldn’t mind paying more for a phone number than a car as long as it brought me luck,” said one mobile phone owner with more money than

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sense.

The owner of the most expensive and coveted mobile phone number in Vietnam — 0988 888888 — which Chinese superstition would have us believe is a symbol of wealth, prosperity, development and perpetuity claims his number is worth a cool US$1 million.

According to businessman Dang Minh Duc, he has been approached with lavish offers to buy his number, but those lucky enough to have a number with sixes and eights hold onto them for dear life. One mobile phone owner apparently turned down an offer of VND2 billion for his lucky number because he believes in the good fortune of the digits — his business is thriving.

Luck be a Lady It’s not just lucky cell phone numbers that drives this numerical obsession.

It also extends to special events such as weddings. Instead of going for the traditional Friday or Saturday dates, Vietnamese families go through all sorts of traditional sources to find out what will be the lucky day. They look at the birth years of the groom and spouse, the date and time, and once they have collected all that data, they can then determine what year, month and day is lucky for the couple’s wedding.

Even the wedding photo shoot has to be on a lucky day. Next up after marriage for most people are babies, and your horoscope animal is very important to your chances of a successful bond.

When the baby is born is also important.

“For example, if a dragon marries

a mouse [she means rat],” adds Nga, “they are very lucky in love and they have a strong marriage for life. If they want to have children, it is lucky for the man if the child is a dragon but not so lucky for the wife. There is no such thing as a perfect ‘animal’ for that couple, but these are some things you can look at.”

Moving into a new flat is also important date-wise, and if you get a spot of rain on that day, it is a good sign that you will be happy in your new home. So best stick to signing leases during the rainy season.

For many the obsession with luck makes as much sense as keeping a raincoat in the boot of your motorbike — the flood might not be coming, but why not be prepared if it does?

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The last call Fredy and Christian bring their laugh-out-loud ventriloquist act to Saigon this month. In the words of Fredy, here is the lowdown on the son of King Kong and his bodyguard I PERFORMED… in New York City at the Empire State Building 40 years after my father did a show there, fighting with the US Air Force. Did I tell you my father is King Kong?

THIS IS MY SECOND TIME IN VIETNAM… as I came here five years ago for a Paul Bocuse dinner, and wanted to come back ‘cause I really enjoy Vietnamese food, especially pho.

IT IS A GREAT LIFESTYLE… making people of all ages and sizes and all languages laugh. I worked in a music hall in Monte Carlo, and one of the biggest cabarets of Paris. I have been around the world on cruises, television and even in movies. I am very famous. I’m sure you have heard of me.

BEING A TALKING MONKEY… is better than being a ventriloquist with gastroenteritis.

CHRISTIAN IS… my bodyguard, who forces me to

speak. While I keep him company — he is very lonely — he takes care of me. I make him come on stage with me, he is nice and wants to perfect my education, but I say what I want no matter what he thinks.

I HAVE TO SIGN SO MANY AUTOGRAPHS… as I’m a rare orange monkey born in the jungle in the centre of France — and I do not want to go back to the jungle before you suggest it. I am very unusual because I speak and I am orange with synthetic fur, which was made by my father King Kong and my mum. All the kids love me and I hope to give the kids in Vietnam a fun night.

LIVING ON THE ROAD… means we always cross the line, the one on the road that is.

I HAVE SEEN SO MANY FUNNY THINGS… like a

French guy owning an American steakhouse! This is where I am performing from Sep. 3 to Sep. 10.

THE STAGE… is my home. When I am not on stage I am travelling in a suitcase, literally.

GROUPIES… are good fun. I meet a lot of them in

monkey bars.

I GO BANANAS… when I see a guenon.

Fredy will be serving customers at New York Steakhouse in Saigon from Sep. 3 to Sep. 10. Prepare yourself for a night of synthetic, orange fur jungle madness by heading to the restaurant at 25-27, Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Ho Chi Minh City