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THE INNOVATIVE SYSTEM FOR EASY CARE FINISHING OF GARMENTS IMPARTING WRINKLE RESISTANCE, WASH & WEAR PROPERTIES & DURABLE PRESS FINISH
Fashion means constant change. At all times, however, people have wished for permanently beautiful, pleasant to wear and easy care textiles. Striving to fulfill this desire, LNCI offers finishers a product system called CELLXTRA, which convinces, amongst others, by its rationalised handling. Optimised process and product combinations make it possible to respond quickly and flexibly to the requirements of the market. The most important properties of the CELLXTRA finish: • Optimum easy care effects for cellulosics and their blends with synthetics. • Elegant handle and drape, and good technological properties of the finished textiles. • Long life effect – the textile appears new for longer. • Excellent wear comfort and good breathability. • Easy care finish with integrated AQUAREPEL soil repellency system. • Low formaldehyde finish. • High productions speeds and process safety. The use of autocatalysed cross-linking systems and multifunctional softening agents ensures quick and reliable handling in production. The softening agents especially developed for the finishing of garments minimize the brittleness caused by the cross-linking agent. The abrasion resistance of the finished textiles as well as its handle and drape is thus improved, the colours are intensified.
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DEMAND IN MARKET There is an increasing demand in the market to have a garment in which, after washing, then hand dry or tumbler dry, there is no ironing or very les ironing required and the garments appearance shows “No wrinkle” or very less wrinkle. These garments are known as “Wrinkle Free”. Now, there is a strong desire for natural looking, comfortable clothing. Consumers want a neater look in casual apparel. The consumer’s life style demands the product be carefree (little or no ironing). This presentation describes the products and procedures used to manufacture 100% cotton wrinkle resistant fabric and garments having both comfort and style. A high synthetic construction garment is already “likely” to be a “wrinkle free” garment. Its plain appearance surface will remain very similar without much wrinkle after washing; with very limited requirement of ironing to get back a plain surface. To maintain cotton as major raw material but with a characteristic of a wrinkle free appearance adequate quantity of “cross linking resin treatment” is required to stabilize its smooth surface. The higher the cotton content, Free Powerpoint Templates the higher will be the resin input required.
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WHY GARMENT FINISHING? Garment finishing provides the same wrinkle free finish provided by post cure operations i.e. Permanent smoothness and crease retention Resistance to wrinkling while wearing, especially with 100% cotton fabrics Improved shrinkage control. In addition to these advantages garment finishing offers: Improved performance over post-cure finishing especially where there is a time delay between finishing and garment construction. (Some curing in the flat occurs with time, reducing crease retention of garments). Rapid response to order for garments from specific fabrics. Production of special order finishes along with wrinkle resistance (water and oil repellent, high performance finish, very soft finish) Inventory reduction and control.
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WHAT TYPE OF GARMENTS CAN BE PROCESSED? WHICH FABRICS? All fabrics containing cellulosic hydroxyl group can be used – cotton and cotton polyester blends are most popular. Other fibres (e.g. linen and rayon) will benefit from treatment, but will require additional formulating. The chemicals involved in this process react with cellulose fibres to provide a permanent memory to that fibre. Polyester fiber is inert to the resin and will not be affected. All cotton or cotton/polyester blend garments work well. Garment finishing is widely used to produce “wrinkle free” pants and shirts (both woven and knit). Other garments e.g. ladies skirts, can also be produced by this method provided a suitable form is available on which to cure the goods. WHICH FABRICS SHOULD NOT BE USED? The application of “Allenlink”, and “Tristar” series of resins to cotton gives a “wrinkle free memory” to the fibre. Increased amount will give improved results. However, when resins are applied to the fabric there is a strength loss (typically 20-40% on 100% cotton fabric). The more resin, the more strength loss. This strength loss will show in reduced tear strength and abrasion resistance of finished garments. (Increased fraying of cuffs, collar, increased tendency to tear). It is important to use fabrics of adequate strength of good quality, long fiber, cotton while manufacturing 100% cotton blend are more forgiving because the polyester is not affected and does not lose strength. However, this can be over by addition of Modtex-PE, Modfinish-HDNI & Modfinish-NF Free Powerpoint Templates
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PROBLEMS TO AVOID Assuming the fabrics to be of reasonable strength and construction, good results should be obtained. The most common problems encountered are: 1.Fabric is too alkaline: Improperly washed fabrics can contain residual alkali. The catalyst in “Tristar and Allenlink� resin is mildly acidic and will be neutralized by the alkali. If the catalyst is neutralized the resin will not cure properly and results will be poor. A properly washed fabric will have an alkalinity of less than 0.05%. In washing the fabric it may be necessary to add a very dilute acetic acid scouring bath followed by a rinse to remove the last alkali form the fabric. 2.Shade Change: Some sensitive dyes will change shade when garments are treated with resins. It is necessary to either change to non-sensitive dyes or dye to accommodate the change. 3.Unequal distribution of resin solution on garments in the washerdryer: This is a mechanical problem of distribution of chemical spray and perhaps fabric construction (e.g. penetration through double fabric layers) 4.Lower performance than expected: If the treated garments have been dried at too high temperature or too long time, some premature curing can occur in the dryer. If this occurs not only is resin not available to cure in the correct shape,Templates but also worse, some Free(pressed) Powerpoint unwanted wrinkles can be cured into the fabric during drying.
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HOW ARE RESULTS MEASURED? Finished garments are laundered and dried in normal household washers and dryers. After 3 home launderings the garments are rated visually against standards available from the American Association of Textile Chemicals and Colorists. These are rated from 1 (worst) to 5 (best) for crease retention (in trousers) and smoothness in flat areas. Usually a 3.5 rating is good, 4.0 excellent. ADVANTAGES OF “CELLXTRA SYSTEM” • Is suitable for all readymade garments made of natural fibers such as cotton or linen as well as man made cellulosic fibres such as rayon, tencel and lyocell. • Provides non-iron effects, if desired also with permanent crease. • Prevents creases during wear as well as after washing and tumble-drying in a household tumbler. • Preserve size of garment • Allows appearances from sleek accurate to casual wrinkle wear • Gives a soft, elegant handle • Less effect on abrasion and tear strength
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REQUIREMENT OF GARMENT BEFORE TREAMENT Garment should be made up of the fabric with good tensile strength. Wash fastness of face fabric, linings, sewing thread and waist bands i.e. the dimension shrinking of the untreated fabric should be below 3%. The face fabric, linings, sewing thread and waist bands should be heat resistance i.e. should not show dimensional changes and dye migration at curing temperatures i.e. 155-170ยบC Corrosion resistance of metal parts, since the treatment bath is in acid medium and corrosion (rust) may occur on ignoble metal buttons, zippers and other accessories. To avoid bleeding and staining dyeings. Fast to colour bleeding have to be used. Reactive dyeings must be stable against acids and acid catalysts.
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WHAT IS THE PROCESS? In general garments are treated with chemicals in a stainless steel rotary washer-dryer and dried at moderate temperatures to 5-10% moisture content. The garment are then pressed to desired shape and cured in a oven between 160-170ยบC for 5-7 mins. Pre-cure process: The pre-cure process is the simplest and easiest method to achieve wrinkle resistance. Here the cross linking resin is applied and cured in the textile finishing mill. This method imparts a permanent memory to the cotton fabric in a flat configuration. This type of finishing is most frequently conducted on fabrics where permanent pleats or creases are not needed such as sheeting, shirting, dress goods, knits, and some slacks. However, one manufacturer has offered slacks made from pre-cured fabrics where the crease was imparted and made permanent by a silicone adhesive.
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Post-cure process: This process was practiced extensively in the 1960s. The finish, including a cross-linking resin and catalyst, is impregnated by the finishing plant and dried with little or no curing. After the garment is made, pleats and/or creases are imparted by pressing. Finally, the garment is passed through a curing oven where the cross-linking resin imparts wrinkle resistance with crease retention. In addition to permanent creases, the conventional post-cure process also provides less seam puckering when washed as compared to the pre-cure process. During processing, there are certain precautions that the finishing plant should exercise in order to ensure a good performing product. The pH of the fabric before finishing should be 5.0 – 7.0 with the total alkalinity not greater than 0.05% NaOH. In order to minimize any curing of the impregnated fabric, it should come off the tenter frame with about 10% moisture measured by a moisture meter. The fabric should be wrapped cool, not hot. If the finished fabric is to be SanforizedTM processed, water is not sprayed and care is taken not to over dry. It may be necessary to reduce the temperature of the palmer unit of the Sanforizer. Another important consideration for post-cure is the shipment and storage of sensitized (treated fabric). Studies have shown that there is a time/temperature relationship whereby premature cross-linking may occur. This would prevent the formation of a sharp crease when pressed, thus the crease rating after laundering may be lower. The type of catalyst (regular v/s hot) and resin (buffered or not) will also have a direct influence on premature curing.
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In the following, we present the individual procedure, illustrated with guide recipes. In more details the preferred treatment process: Dip saturation hydro-extract process Metered addition process A DIP-SATURATION-HYDROEXTRACT PROCESS: Garment has to be free from residual alkali and other substances disturbing the cross linking process and as described earlier. Procedure Step I: In the first step, the dry garments are impregnated with the finishing solution, by maintain the MLR 1:10 or 1:15. The garments may be agitated briefly in the solution, or a bundle of the garment may be dipped in the finishing solution. The important factor is that the garments become thoroughly saturated with the finish. A typical finish will contain a wetting agent, cross-linking resin, catalyst, softener the garment is soaked in bath for 30 Free Powerpoint Templates mins.
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Bath Recipe For Dip Process Products Shirting Trouser Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 5–6 8–9 Modfinish-HDNI / Sylast-TSI 3.5 – 4 4 Silicone softener 2 3–4 (Luballen-AH-30/Dermasil-LIQ) Altranol-84 0.1 0.1 Catalyst-CR 0.5 – 0.6 0.8 – 0.9 Water 88.9 – 87.3 84.1 – 82 pH of the bath 4.5 ~ 5 with Acetic Acid Step-II: The garment is hydro-extracted to about 75-80% wet pick-up. The level of wet pick-up will depend primarily upon the construction of the fabric. Step-III: Tumble-drying the impregnated garments is a critical step. If the area to be creased becomes too dry and hot, some curing may take place. The problem with this partial pre-curing is that it will inhibit the formation of sharp crease. Moisture in the area to be creased should not fall below 10-12%. Free Powerpoint Templates
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Step-IV: PRE-CURE PROCESS Curing: After tumble-drying curing the garments in the balloon form in the curing chamber at 160-150ºC for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products and fabrics) Pressing: This is to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease on the cured garment. Temperature should be around 170-190ºC POST CURE PROCESS Pressing: Hot head press – After tumble-drying the garments are pressed to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease on the garment. Temperature should be around 170-190ºC. Curing: After pressing garments are cured in curing chamber at 160-165ºC for 510 mins. (Temperature depends on products and fabrics) Free Powerpoint Templates
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METERED ADDITION PROCESS Step I: Applying finish solution to cotton garments by spray system to deliver precisely the required amount of formulation to the garments. This is termed as “Metered Addition Process”. The system compares to the dip method, except for the application of the resin solution. Unlike the garment “dip” process, which totally saturates the garments followed by a centrifuge extraction to a wet pick-up value, the metered addition process applies only the necessary amount of finish solution needed to achieve the final predetermined wet pick-up.
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METERED ADDITION PROCESS The finish solution is applied via spray where in the appropriate amount of finish solution is distributed to the garments as a fine mist during the rotational tumbling in an enclosed device such as garment wash/dye machine or a modified tumble dryer. To assist in allowing the finish solution to be evenly distributed throughout the garments, the rotation is altered between forward and reverse during the spraying cycle. This allows for the garments to become re-oriented, thus permitting a greater possibility for uniform application. After the spray application is complete, the garments continue to rotate to allow for the migration of the finish from high to low concentrated areas. This time of equilibrations will depend upon the nature of the garments, the amount of resin solution applied the rate of spray mist (drop size and spraying profile). After the equilibration is complete, the garments are the processed by the normal sequence of tumble-drying pressing and oven curing or tumble drying, curing and then pressing.
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Bath Recipe For 100 gms garment for metered addition process: Products Shirting Trousers Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 4 – 4.5 6–7 Modfinish-HDNI/ Sylast-TSI 3–4 4–5 licone softener 1.5 – 2.5 2– 4 (Luballen-AH-30/Dermasil-LIQ) Altranol-84 0.1 0.1 Catalyst-CR 0.4 – 0.5 0.6 – 0.7 Water 67.5 – 55.9 59.3 – 47.2 Total 90 90 pH of the bath 4.5 ~ 5 with Acetic Acid 100 gm weight garment is taken in the machine and then 45 gm. of the above solution is added and exhausted in the machine for 10 mins., the rest 45 gm. bath is added and exhausted for 20 mins and then garment is : Step-II: The garment is hydro-extracted to about 75-80% wet pick-up. The level of wet pick-up will depend primarily upon the construction of the fabric. Step-III: Tumble-drying the impregnated garments is a critical step. If the area to be creased becomes too dry and hot, some curing may take place. The problem with this partial pre-curing is that it will inhibit the formation of sharp crease. Moisture in the area to be creased should not fall below 10-12%.
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Step-IV: PRE-CURE PROCESS Curing: After tumble-drying curing the garments in the balloon form in the curing chamber at 160-150ºC for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products and fabrics) Pressing: This is to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease on the cured garment. Temperature should be around 170-190ºC POST CURE PROCESS Pressing: Hot head press – After tumble-drying the garments are pressed to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease on the garment. Temperature should be around 170-190ºC. Curing: After pressing garments are cured in curing chamber at 160-165ºC for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products and fabrics) Free Powerpoint Templates
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ADVANTAGES OF THE METERED ADDTION PROCESS: Process include the use of simplified equipment, no waste, no effluent, no contamination of the finish bath, no contamination of the finish bath, no depletion of individual components, the use of premixed finish solutions and the ability to perform wet on wet processing. AQUAREPEL – An option in the CELLXTRA system Recently, the use of fluorocarbon polymers in the manufacture of high-quality, trendy fabrics – especially for trousering – has become more and more common. With its surface-AQUAREPEL types, LNC offers speciality products that confer additional water-, oil- and soil-repellent properties to the textile.
water
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Fibre Water-Free andPowerpoint oil-repellency through AQUAREPEL-fluoro Templates Page 18 polymers
AQUAREPEL The invisible fibre protection system Ω Preserves colours and fabrics Makes textiles dry faster Makes fabric care child’s play water-repellent Oil- and soil-repellent Breathable Resistant to washing and dry cleaning Weather proof
AQUAREPEL WATER - OIL - SOIL
REPELLENT
L.N. Chemical Industries PERMANENT FABRIC PROTECTION SYSTEM
After washing, it is recommended to iron the textile in order to re-activate the protection system Not only factors like brand, cut, colour, design, etc., but also the wear properties of the textile play a decisive role in the customer’s decision to buy.
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Wrinkle resistance combined with stain resistance Method-I Bath recipe for Dip Hydroextract Process : Products Shirting Trouser Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 5–6 8–9 Modfinish-HDNI 3.5 – 4 4 Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2-3 2–4 Aquarepel-XC/conc 2–4 2–6 Catalyst-CR 0.5 – 0.6 0.8 – 0.9 Water 88.9 – 87.3 84.1 – 82 pH of the bath 4.5 ~ 5 with Acetic Acid Bath recipe for metered addition process: Products Shirting Trouser Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 4–5 6–7 Aquarepel-XC/conc 2–4 2–6 Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2-3 2–4 Modfinish-HDNI 3–4 4–5 Catalyst-CR 0.4 – 0.5 0.6 – 0.7 Water 78.6 –Powerpoint 73.5 75.4Templates – 67.3 Free Total 90 90
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CELEXTRA Product system LNC provides a product system that meets individual demands and offers quick and flexible process solutions
No.
Product
I
Low formaldehyde cross linking agent
II
III
Ionic Nature
Product character
Tristar-L-112
Non-ionic/Weakly cationic
Low formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-ULF
Non-ionic/Weakly cationic
Low formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-GH
Non-ionic to weakly anionic
Non formaldehyde based resin
Tristar-F
Non-ionic to weakly anionic
Non formaldehyde based resin
Catalyst Catalyst-CR
Non-ionic
Co-catalyst
Softening agent Dermasil-SIN
Non-ionic
Silicone softener (very low yellowing)
Luballen-AH-30
Non-ionic
Silicone softener (non-yellowing)
Dermasil-LIQ
Non-ionic
Silicone softener (very low yellowing)
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No. III
IV
V
VI
Product
Ionic Nature
Product character
Dermasil-SFC
Non-ionic
Fluoro carbon compatible softener
Dermasil-FC
Non-ionic
Fluoro carbon compatible softener
Softening agent
Stain and water repellant Aquarepel-XC/conc
Non-ionic
Fluoro carbon base product
Aquarepel-XAN
Cationic
Highly efficient durable, Fluoro carbon extender
Secondary polyolefin additives for improving abrasion and tensile resistance Modsoft-PE
Cationic
Improves sewability and abrasion resistance
Modfinish-HDNI
Non-ionic to weakly cationic
Improves sewability and abrasion resistance
Sylast-TSI
Nonionic to weakly Cationic
Improves sewability and tensile strength
Permafin-UR
Amphoteric
Excellent inner softness, peach like effect
Permafin-ZF
Nonionic to weakly cationic
Excellent inner softness & full hand
Polyurethane
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L. N. CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES
OFFICE ADDRESS: 403, “Antariksh”, Makwana Road, Marol Naka, Andheri (E), Mumbai – 400 059
FACTORY ADDRESS: D- 14 /10, T.T.C. M.I.D.C Industrial area, Turbhe , P. O. K. U. Bazar, Navi Mumbai – 400 705
Tel.- 91-22-4221 6789 (30 Lines) 91-22-6692 4112 Fax -91-22-2836 6434
Tel.-91- 22- 4141 9899 (100 Lines) Fax -91- 22- 4141 9888
Email ID: ketan@lnchem.in Free Powerpoint nayana.lnchem@gmail.com
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