World Traveler Magazine 2019 by World Traveler Magazine

COLLECTORS' EDITION

FEATURES 26 A weekend at the One&Only Palmilla

by Stacie Gottsegen

30 A Spiritual Journey through Eastern BAVARIA

by Karin Leperi

36 A week in MARRAKESH

by Paulina Berkobich

42 PERU History & Adventure

by Paulina Berkobich

48 The Curious Case of SAN CRISTOBAL de las CASAS

by Karin Leperi

56 Forever FINLAND; the Mikkeli Lakeland Region

by Karin Leperi

60 RIO DE JANEIRO… A Flurry of Sights and Flavors

by Paulina Berkovich

64 Rosas & Xocolate – the BEST Address in Merida

by Paulina Berkovich

68 Where Elegance is never out of style – FOUR SEASONS

The Biltmore Santa Barbara by Rick Stedman

74 NEW ZEALAND’s Hobbiton… Middle Earth Movie Mania

by Karin Leperi

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

80 ISRAEL’s Mount Hermon

by Rick Stedman

ON THE COVER Montage Los Cabos

â&#x20AC;¢

COLLECTORS' EDITION

DEPARTMENTS 16

Editors’ Note

Contributors Part I

Contributors Part II

Luxury Debut

Villa One at the One&Only Palmilla

Leperi Travel Advisory

Featured FAVORITE CELEB Maria Conchita Alonso

Actress, Singer, Songwriter, Activist and Producer – She Does It All! by Karin Leperi

84 PHILANTHROPY Emotional London Supports Eva Longoria’s

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

GLOBAL GIFT GALA By Paulina Berkovich

GOLF around the world

ICELAND Golfing on Iceland – Like Golfing on the Moon By Rick Stedman

Room with a View

Montage Los Cabos

WorldTRAVELERÂ® | 2019

2019

COLLECTORS’ EDITION Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo CEO / Publisher / Editor-in-Chief Pat Tyson

Executive Editor Karin Leperi

Associate Executive Editor Greg Norman

Golf Editor

Sammy Hagar

NightLife Editor Beth Cordasco

Senior Travel Editor Rick Stedman

Senior Travel Editor Sylvia Mendoza

Senior Travel Editor Jeanie Casison

Senior Travel Editor Paulina Berkovich

Senior Travel Editor Cristina Artigas

Senior Travel Editor Stacie Gottsegen

Travel Editor / Celebrity Correspondent Michelle McDermott

Travel Editor / Europe Jessica Rubinstein

Assistant to the Editor-in-Chief Kim Cuffe Mario Gabriel Rodríguez

Executive Design Directors

Karie J. Boyd / Boyd Law

Legal Representation in the U.S. Javier Troncoso / Bufete Troncoso

Legal Representation in Mexico Kerrie Briggs

Consulting Art Editor / Logo TRAVELER PUBLICATIONS

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

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CISSN 1941-3076 WorldTRAVELER® is a bi-annual publication with a six-month distribution, sold and distributed throughout the U.S., Canada,Mexico and parts of Europe, South America, Latin America and Asia. CUSTOMER SERVICE & SUBSCRIPTIONS: For 24/7 service, please use our website, w-traveler.com The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other material. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without the written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. To order back issues: U.S. (619) 216-8035. To order article reprints of 500 or more: (619) 216-8035.

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2019

COLLECTORS’ EDITION Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo CEO / Publisher / Editor-in-Chief Juan Antonio Fernandez

Top Attorneys Representing Executives and Celebrities

V.P. Corporate Sales & Marketing Director Pilar Baize, Cristina Artigas & Martha Sofia Azcona

Corporate Sales Karin Leperi

Public Relations Carmen K. Aceves & Oscar Almada

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Message from the Editor-in-Chief Travel is a gift we give ourselves… To see what is happening beyond our doorstep, to understand different cultures, to see how society and the planet is changing. Travel opens our eyes and gives us greater insight into the world, as well as into other cultures. I know it has made me a wiser, more understanding human being and, yes, even more appreciative of what I have. As editor of Traveler Publications for the past two decades, we will continue to travel the globe and through World Traveler® bring you the most amazing destinations. I personally thank our Executive Associate editor, Ms. Karin Leperi for her non-stop travels!!! Her contribution is enourmous! Please also continue reading BajaTraveler® and MexicoTraveler® - for the Best of Mexico. I hope you will all share with us those places you’d like us to feature… You can send us your messages via our website: w-traveler.com As we approach our 20th anniversary, I would like to thank you all for your faithful following… all these years. I am so pleased and excited over our cover at the One&Only Palmilla… a resort we’ve been featuring in our Mexico publications – for many years now… If you haven’t visited – you must include it to your bucket list – it’s a MUST! We are excited to have witnessed the amazing work our past cover girl – Ms. Eva Longoria, continues to do with the Global Gift Foundation… Eva, coupled with Maria Bravo are outstanding philanthropists that help children world-wide… Please read our article on page 80. Our featured celeb for this issue is our very own, Maria Conchita Alonso – please read all about her starting on page 52. We’re delighted to feature many amazing destinations from our favorite editors… Karin Leperi, Cristina Artigas, Paulina Berkovich, Rick Stedman and Stacie Gottsegen. Please read them all! Finally, I wish to thank my wonderful staff – writers, photographers, editors, assistants and designers, and a very special thanks to Kim, Mario, Art and Mike, who put their heart and soul into the design of this issue, as well as the website. This magazine would not be possible without all of your truly top-notch talents. And, a special thanks to the advertisers and readers of WorldTraveler®. Your endorsements and support have been heart-warming and comforting during these past eighteen years.

Traveling the World to Bring you Amazing Destinations! Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo

BAJA VACATION

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Mayté VILLA

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CONTRIBUTORS I Pat Tyson Born and educated in England, Pat Tyson traveled around Europe, lived for a year in Lausanne, Switzerland, perfecting her French. In search of a new life, she moved to the United States in the early 60s. Landing in Chicago, she worked for two large advertising agencies, then later moved to San Diego where again academia called and she earned a master’s in telecom and film at SDSU. She taught college journalism 10 years, as well as joining San Diego Home/Garden magazine when it was first published in 1979. As Executive Editor, Pat has written for Traveler Publications since the beginning in 1998, traveling to many wondrous spots to write about them. The journey by train through the spectacular Copper Canyon, Mexico – was unforgettable; the dolphins cavorting around the boat in the Sea of Cortés – thrilling! She has never ceased to be enchanted by the people, cuisine and scenic beauty of Mexico. She is very excited to now be writing about the world in WorldTraveler®. Pat was awarded the BajaTraveler® Pulitzer prize in 2011.

Karin Leperi Karin Leperi is an award-winning writer and photographer with an admitted passion for diverse cultures and the natural environment. With specialties ranging from travel, cuisine and culture to entertainment, natural resources and the environment, she enjoys crafting her words and articles around images of people and places. Karin has been a Traveler Publications Associate Executive Editor for over thirteen years now and is excited about the growth and diffusion the magazines have attained. She’s thrilled about our latest creation – WorldTraveler®. Karin was awarded the BajaTraveler® Pulitzer prize in 2012.

VILLA

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

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A Remarkable Rental Collection Located in a Private Community of ROSARITO BEACH BajaVACATIONVillas.com US Tel. 619.216.8035 Cell 619.987.8036

Beth Purcell Cordasco Beth Purcell Cordasco has a Masters degree in Latin American Studies, and delights in both reading about and traveling to all parts of the region. She has traveled extensively in Mexico, from summer-long stays to study Spanish in Guadalajara, to long weekends in Los Cabos – she loves it all. Oaxaca, Tulum, and Zihuatanejo are three of her favorite spots, and a month-long Mexican yoga retreat is about the best thing she can imagine. Beth has been with Traveler Publications since 1999 writing for both BajaTraveler® and MexicoTraveler®. Mexico is a subject that Beth loves to write about, as its beauty and slower pace of life are two things she greatly values. Additionally, the warmth of the Mexican people cannot be matched, and, well, who doesn’t love a perfect margarita? She is very excited to now be writing about the entire world on WorldTraveler®. Beth was awarded the BajaTraveler® Pulitzer prize in 2013. Beth is pictured here with her beautiful daughters; Anneke, Merrell & Capri.

BAJAVACATION

Villas

THE PERFECT HIDEAWAY | ROSARITO BEACH

YOUR

Villa IS WAITING...

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CONTRIBUTORS II Sylvia Mendoza Growing up a Navy brat, Sylvia Mendoza lived in Hawaii, Guam and later, Puerto Rico – and had the opportunity to vacation in different countries. Even though she loves coming home to San Diego, she has always been intrigued with different cultures, traveling, and storytelling... As an award-winning journalist for a variety of publications, Sylvia believes in the power of the written word and that every person has a story to tell. For magazines like MexicoTraveler and Baja Traveler, her passion is writing feature stories and profiles that bring out the best of people. Sylvia has also authored several books. Her nonfiction The Book of Latina Women: 150 Vidas of Passion, Strength & Success was the 2014 first place winner in the International Latino Book Awards, “Best Women’s Issues” category. Sylvia was awarded the BajaTraveler® Pulitzer prize in 2016. Stacie Gottsegen Stacie Gottsegen is a television producer, writer and culinary junkie. She began her career at NBC Burbank with “WorldTraveler” publisher Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo… Their bond was sealed the day they put on their navy blue page uniforms. Stacie is also a senior news and talent producer for entertainment and news magazine programs. A native “Angeleno” known for her calm demeanor and her sense of humor, Stacie lives in Brentwood, California with her fiancé Gregory Gieras and their adopted cat, Esme. Stacie is thrilled to be contributing to BajaTraveler®, MexicoTraveler® and now WorldTra as the “Celebrity” Correspondent.

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

Jeanie Casison Born in San Diego, California and raised in the suburbs of Washington, D.C., Jeanie Casison was on the move starting at an early age when family trips brought her everywhere from the provinces of the Far East to the amusement parks of Florida. After graduating from New York University, Casison was fortunate to find a writing job that allowed her to pursue her passion fo foreign places and reveling in new experiences. Over the years she has traveled extensively throughout Europe, Asia, North America, South America, the Middle East and the Caribbean to cover destination developments. During a brief stint as senior writer for NYC & Company, the official tourism marketing of New York City, Casison worked behind the scenes to bring more visitors to the Big Apple, where she currently resides. Casison considers watching the whales of Cabo, visiting Petra in Jordan, and shopping in Hong Kong and São Paulo, Brazil among her favorite pursuits on her growing list of travel adventures. Jeanie enjoys writing forTraveler Publications as she is a frequent traveler – to the entire world.

Paulina Berkovich Paulina Berkovich holds a master's degree from Northwestern's Medill School of Journalism. A native Russian speaker (but lifelong Midwesterner) and former student sportswriter, she works as a marketing analyst but enjoys writing about her travels and food experiences. Paulina recently married Karson Leperi and they’re both enjoying the married life… Paulina enjoys writing for Traveler Publications as it gives her an opportunity to travel to and write about Mexico.

LUXURY DEBUT

VILLA One

THE ULTIMATE IN CUSTOMIZABLE LUXURY DEBUTING AT THE One&Only PALMILLA BY PAULINA BERKOVICH

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

Imagine watching Cabo’s breathtaking sunset with margaritas and Mexican canapés after a session in the private spa treatment room while a dedicated culinary team prepares dinner to your exact specifications. All of this and more awaits guests at the newly opened Villa One, the newest luxury villa at One&Only Palmilla Resort that debuted in December 2015.

The exceptional experience begins right at the airport, where guests will be welcomed and escorted directly to the 14,000-foot, four-bedroom villa. The spacious master suite, at 870 square feet, offers a king-sized bed and walk-in closet. Its floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors offer a gorgeous view of the surrounding natural beauty, the palm trees and the Sea of Cortez. A secluded deck outside the second bedroom is perfect for sun-bathing, and the third bedroom also offers a private patio. Amenities include a panoramic infinity-edge pool and a lounging terrace with a fire pit. By day, guests can use binoculars for spotting whales, and a telescope is available for stargazing by night. One&Only Palmilla has dining options for every taste and occasion, some of them created by Michelin-starred chefs and many of them showcasing local seasonal foods. The resort already

offers some of Mexico’s finest restaurants, ranging from Seared, which features exceptional steak and seafood dinners, to Breeze, a casual outdoor spot with breakfast, fresh salads and other delicacies. The bars offer a selection of refreshing tropical beverages, with cozy seating and music to set the mood, and the Herb Garden, with its collection of indigenous chiles, hosts cooking demonstrations and intimate private gatherings of up to 12 people. Priority reservations can be made for guests at any location on the resort, but a private poolside breakfast or family-style dinner can also be arranged at the Villa upon request. One&Only Palmilla’s spa pampers its guests with services that put a Mexican twist on ancient Asian holistic philosophies, and guests at Villa One are offered priority access to any treatment. But guests can treat themselves in the privacy of the villa with a wide variety of massages and beauty treatments. In addition, a dedicated personal trainer is available for one hour each day to arrange private workouts in the state-of-the-art fitness center or even on the beach. For guests looking for outdoor adventures, the resort offers not only tennis and basketball courts and a 27-hole golf course but also water sports like surfing, paddle boarding,

kayaking and snorkeling. Guests that stay four nights or more receive a complimentary yacht cruise or a private art walk. For those looking to relax in their own private space, Villa One has also perfected in-home entertainment. There is a surround audio sound system both indoors and outdoors, with playlists for any musical tastes, as well as a curved satellite TV and access to an endless movie library. Travelers can treat themselves daily with freshly delivered fruit, exclusive snacks, or espresso and tea, all complimentary. Better still, Villa One offers a pillow menu and aromatherapy turndown menu. For travelers with families, children will not be disappointed by the milk and cookies. The Villa’s fourth bedroom has a bunkbed perfect for young travelers, and a Kids Club is available for guests age four to 11. The attentive staff will make sure that each and every detail is arranged to a guest’s specifications, making a vacation in Villa One a customizable dream destination. Rates start at $12,500 per night. Whether it’s a special event or a private getaway, a stay at Villa One is the most luxurious way to experience the wonders at One&Only Palmilla Resort. BT

VILLA ONE | ONE&ONLY PALMILLA | SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO, B.C.S., MEXICO | 011 – 52 (624) 146-7000 | TOLL FREE (888) 691-8081

ST. BASIL’S CATHEDRAL

Travel Trends

“Travel makes one modest, you see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.”

— Gustave Flaubert, French Novelist As the world grows smaller in size due to faster, affordable and more convenient transportation, the public’s appetite for travel experiences grows. Once considered the privilege of royalty and the wealthy, travel is now available for any budget. All you need to figure out is what is important to you, how you want to get there, the type of experience you would like to walk away with, and how much you want to spend. Hopefully, the journey and destination will be humbling while most memorable, even as it gives a broader perspective on the world.

BY KARIN LEPERI

their 100th anniversary system-wide. Look for special savings associated with annual passes, senior passes, and special admittance days.

2. New bucket list destinations. As travelers mature in their choice of destinations by seeking new experiences, exotic as well as once forbidden destinations are now topping the list of international “bucket list” destinations. They include: Myanmar, Cuba, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Russia. (My personal favorite is Madagascar, an island teeming with some of the world’s greatest biodiversity but presenting with a difficult infrastructure). NAMIBIA

4. It’s all about the food. Food tourism is a destination draw. In the Global Report on Food Tourism by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), the organization remarks how the growth of food tourism worldwide is an obvious fact. “It is one of the most dynamic segments within the tourism market.” Whether the focus is Kosher, organic, ethnic, regional, natural foods, crop-to-table or fine dining, travelers more than ever are wanting to connect with their food: Where it’s from, how it’s grown, and how it’s prepared. What are the regional specialties and how do they reflect the culture? Food connects a traveler to place by engaging all senses, giving intimate insights on culture and providing authentic experiences specific to the destination. Dan Peltier with Skift says: “Learning about a particular food, or even better a regional food culture is the big draw. Vacations and trips revolve around distinct foods and flavors, not restaurants.”

5. Have camera, will travel. Photo tours / expeditions / workshops are on the rise as baby boomers with discretionary income and time explore their creative side while seeking the road less traveled. Surprisingly, this trend is under the radar of most travel trend analysts and the market is huge. Plus, it’s a trend

HERE’S MY LIST OF TEN TRAVEL TRENDS:

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

1. Play and stay in U.S. National Parks. The U.S. National Park Service will see an increase in attendance while introducing a new generation to the outdoors as they celebrate

HYATT ZIVA AND ZILARA ROSE HALL JAMAICA

3. River-cruising is hot! There is more demand for river-cruising with India as the hottest 2016 destination. People prefer to unpack only once and are looking for cultural experiences beyond their own backyard. To meet the demand, there is an influx of new boats that can only help make prices more competitive. In 2015 alone, over 40 new river boats were launched and added to inventory according to Cruise Critic. Leading river cruise companies include Viking, AmaWaterways, Avalon, Uniworld, Tauck, Vantage, Pandaw and American Queen Steamboat Company.

within a trend as many participants are solo. Outdoor Photography Magazine provides a list for many of these photography tours. (A word to the wise: Many trips fill up over a year in advance.)

6. Keeping it real. Travelers are seeking authentic experiences, with an emphasis on active travel and experiential engagement. This can range from cultural experiences, off-the-beaten path, and wildlife safaris to expedition yachting, walking and bicycling tours.

7. The trend to carry-on luggage. We are traveling lighter and more efficiently. I remember the days of airline travel when it was not uncommon to see passengers check as many as 4-5 over-sized suitcases to their destination. Usually, there was no extra charge, or it was minimal at best. Not so anymore. Nowadays, the consumer traveling model has changed, with incentives going towards those who travel leaner and lighter: Think carry-on.

But this is easier than you think as technology has given us a new generation of ultralight luggage with telescoping handles and multi-directional spinner wheels along with a plethora of travel products to help us become more efficient. The rest is up to you to sort through “needs” and “wants” for packing. For example, most seasoned travelers only pack one pair of shoes with the other pair on their traveling feet.

8. Free Wi-Fi please. We demand more connectivity while traveling and expect Wi-Fi to be provided for free at our lodging choices. According to Fortune Magazine, 43% of Boomer’s stays are based on the availability of Wi-Fi.

10. Travel with Conscience. More than ever before, we are traveling with a conscience. It’s the rise of the conscientious traveler. For example, though Paris tourism may initially be affected by safety concerns associated with terrorism, I am expecting that travelers will intentionally travel to Paris to show the world a sign of support and solidarity. WT

For more Travel Advisory Information by Karin, visit W-Traveler.com You may also ask your pressing questions. PHOTOS BY KARIN LEPERI

9. Disabled on the move. There is increased awareness in accommodating disabled travelers. “Access has certainly improved for wheelchair-users and slow walkers over the years,” according to Candy Harrington, author of Barrier-Free Travel - A Nuts & Bolts Guide for Wheelers and Slow Walkers.

WILDLIFE SAFARI

W-Traveler.com

ANGKOR WAT IN CAMBODIA

Harrington adds this is largely because of the aging Baby Boomer population. She notes that this group has the desire and time to travel along with the money, prompting the tourism industry to recognize this audience. “I’ve seen everything from wheelchair-accessible hot air balloons to zip lines and bungee jumping, as well as accessible lodging options that include everything from yurts and cabins to a luxurious houseboat. The national parks are improving access too; in fact, just in this past year a five-mile accessible multiuse trail was added at Bryce Canyon, and the trail out to Double Arch in Arches National Park was upgraded to be wheelchair-accessible.”

DISABILITY ON THE MOVE PHOTO COURTESY OF CHARLES PANNELL

A WEEKEN D AT TH E

O N E & O N LY PA L M I L L A BY STACIE GOTTSEGEN

editor's

WorldTRAVELERÂŽ | 2019

TOP PICK

After hurricane Odile ravaged the Baja Peninsula, the people who called the beaches home struggled. Many did not know if their community would come back. The resorts and restaurants took immediate action and now Baja is back... and it is bigger and better than ever.

Peter Bowling; Managing Director, and his entire hotel staff welcomed back delighted guests to a resort that transcends elegance and their expectations. The beauty and tranquility that is the One&Only Palmilla remains unchanged. There are a number of new elements including the new Jean Georges Vongerichten steak house, SEARED and completely refurbished guest rooms and suites, complete with adult outdoor lounging areas and a new spa and fitness Centre. Past guests of the resort will find what they have come to love about the resort but will also discover new experiences. Most importantly, One&Only Palmilla will continue to deliver the incredible warm and genuine service that past guests love and those new to the hotel will keep coming back for... over and over again.

Adjacent to SEARED, Suviche restaurant has a whole new look with a back-lit alabaster bar, and offers dramatic floor-to-ceiling views of the Sea of Cortez. Here too the cuisine is choreographed by Jean-Georges, who selected the masterful Chef Yoshiaki Akaike from Japan to delight guests with his expertise in sushi and sashimi. A sushi bar allows 12 guests to engage and closely watch the craft of the expert chefs. Guests can also enjoy the One&Only Lounge, adjacent to Suviche, and select from a vast array of cocktails, including an extensive selection of Mexico’s finest tequila and mezcal.

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Reborn and reinvigorated, the iconic and ultra-luxurious One&Only Palmilla resort re-opened its doors on April 20, 2015. Our own Editor-in-Chief, Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo was recently a guest and in her owns words; felt like a queen… “Every single detail – surpassed my imagination… It truly is one of the most amazing resorts I have ever stayed at.”

One&Only Palmilla is set to become THE dinPictured ing destination in Cabo. 01 Seared Michelin-starred Chef Jean-Georges Vong02 Agua erichten brings his in by Larbi ternationally renowned signature culinary style to a brand-new steakhouse at One&Only Palmilla, SEARED, showcasing a selection of the finest steaks – are displayed in a glasswalled curing room, as well as chops and the freshest Pacific and Atlantic seafood. The décor at the steakhouse is by Jeffrey Beers International and offers smart and comfortable elegance accented by original Mexican techniques. Guests may also dine al fresco on the restaurant’s new expansive oceanfacing terrace.

editor's

TOP PICK

Chef Larbi Dahrouch and his team welcome guests throughout the 01 ocean front day to enjoy the farm pool casita to-table dining, 02 living room suite offering authentic 03 villa cortez pool Mexican cuisine 04 Master bedroom with some Mediterat Villa Cortez ranean influences. The menu changes seasonally, with some menu items changing daily, depending on the fresh catch and produce available from the organic garden. Interactive dining is showcased here, including fresh, hand-made tortillas, authentic moles and signature guacamole and ceviche made tableside.

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

Pictured

Guests can also have a culinary adventure and sit at Larbi's table. The special area is perfect for celebrations and can accommodate up to 15 diners. A protégé of the late 3-Michelin-star-chef Jean-Louis Palladin, Dahrouch’s travels throughout Mexico in search of regional flavours have enabled him to provide One&Only Palmilla guests with unique dishes that are authentically Mexican. The open kitchen allows guests to observe his team’s techniques, whilst the restaurant’s wine cellar contains the world’s largest selection of Mexican wines, as well as wines from around the world. Agua by Larbi also offers guests a wealth of beverage options from the dedicated tequila and mezcal trolley, which introduces guests to the distinctive Mexi-

Not to forget the men, Barber&Blade has been introduced as One&Only Pictured Palmilla’s exclusive new men’s sa01 spa lon. A dedicated team of grooming courtyard experts will offer male guests the 02 Spa chance to unwind and indulge in a series of shaving, grooming and barber shop treatments, as well as pampering for the face and scalp.

Guests of the One&Only Spa can also choose from a wide variety of exclusive treatments for the feet, hands and nails at the Pedi:Mani:Cure Studio, designed by internationally renowned French podiatrist Bastien Gonzalez, including a series of signature “Duo” treatments that feature two therapists in synchronized motion. And as part of the expanded One&Only Spa, the new Juice Bar offers guests a wide selection of freshly pressed natural juices to improve health and wellbeing. The state-of-the-art Fitness Center welcomes guests to continue – or begin – healthy lifestyle pursuits, equipped with an integrated collection of Technogym cardio, strength and functional equipment, which offers the best in design, biomechanical engineering and interactive technology. A myriad of group and individual classes are on offer for all fitness levels, ranging from yoga and transformational breathing to nutrition and personal training, while outdoor activities such as Sunrise Yoga and Beach Boot Camp allow guests to breathe in the healing powers of Baja’s sea air and sunshine. The entire workout space has been reoriented to enable those using the equipment to enjoy the extraordinary views of the resort’s gardens and ocean beyond. WT

ROOMS & SUITES

The resort’s central terrace leads guests to the casual outdoor Breeze Café, which overlooks one of the resort’s two free-form pools, framed by the vista of the Pacific Ocean. Breeze offers guests a variety of options for the perfect breakfast, a light lunch of salads and Mexican delicacies and all-day snacks showcasing fresh and organic produce. A beautiful renovation and realignment of the spaces in the One&Only Spa and Fitness Centre underscores the dedication to wellness that is a central feature of One&Only Palmilla. The 22,000-squarefoot spa offers extensive space both outdoor and indoor, providing guests with a sense of calm and seclusion. Signature treatments take place within a series of 13 private treatment villas, each set within its own secluded landscaped courtyard, many

complete with plunge pool, rain showers and swinging day beds. A tranquil lunch or fresh juice in the spa’s Yoga Garden is another delight for visitors. The latest innovation at One&Only Palmilla is the OBO Salon by Jonathan & George. One&Only created this brand-new beauty salon concept and partnered with Beverly Hills celebrity stylists Jonathan Antin and Amanda George to open their first offsite venture. One&Only Beauty introduces signature “unplug without being undone” hair and beauty treatments to Los Cabos – perfect for the needs and tempo of a tropical beach vacation: guests may opt for formal appointments or a quick drop-in for a pre-dinner touch-up. The OBO Salon has created a series of styles designed to reflect the personality of each of the world’s One&Only resorts and it will also cater to every beauty need of the dozens of weddings and milestone celebrations hosted annually at the resort.

The jewel in this crown of Baja is the resort’s exclusive VILLA CORTEZ... Imagine arriving to your repose – a four-bedroom beachside residence, complete with private pool, beach access, gardens, lavish entertainment areas, a 12-seat private screening room, study and staff quarters – This has also been completely restyled. One&Only Palmilla is second to none. Villa One, the new, spectacular four-bedroom villa, with an additional Butler Suite at over almost 14,000 square feet of private space both indoor and out, will provide the perfect lodging for a variety of guests, from those seeking the ultimate in privacy to families and friends seeking time together and perfect for girls’ or guys’ weekends and small corporate retreats. For reservations or more information, please visit OneandOnlyResorts.com.

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can spirits, from the blanco, reposado and añejo varieties of tequila to the unique and lesser-known mezcal.

Each of One&Only Palmilla’s 174 oceanfront guest rooms and suites have been enhanced, with new furnishings, fabrics and color schemes, plus a complete makeover of the rooms in the classic Tres Palmas wing. As always, to underscore One&Only Palmilla’s unique atmosphere, every single guest is served by a butler whose role is to cater to each guest’s comfort, need and whim.

A Spiritual Journey through Eastern

Bavaria In a land of fairytale castles, medieval fortresses and wooded mountains interspersed by verdant vales, there lies a

region of Germany of incredible beauty: Many towns still retain their medieval flavor, as if stuck in time. This is Eastern Bavaria, also known as spiritual Bavaria â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a region called home by the current Pope and where one million pilgrims annually trek to Altoetting to catch a glimpse of the Black Madonna, hoping and praying for a modern-day miracle.

WorldTRAVELERÂŽ | 2019

BY KARIN LEPERI

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ST. PETERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CATHEDRAL IN REGENSBURG

Bavaria 1. St. Peter’s Cathedral in Regensburg Once considered to be the richest town in all of southern Germany because of the preponderance of buildings crafted in stone; today, Regensburg – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is probably one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Germany. St. Peter’s Cathedral is the spiritual center of town, with gothic rib-vaulted ceilings and colorful stained glass windows dating back to the 13th and 14th centuries. Pope Benedict XVI was a professor of theology at the University of Regensburg from 1969 – 1977, and remains an honorary professor to this day. He is quoted as saying, “I really feel at home here.” 2. Historical Sausage Kitchen Regensburg also lays claim to having the oldest preserved stone bridge in Germany as well as some of the best sausage to be found in Bavaria. The Historical Sausage Kitchen, at the foot of the bridge, supposedly dates back to the 12th century, when the bridge was built. Today, it provides nourishment for spiritual seekers.

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3. Passau on the Danube Passau is located in southeast of Germany, along the Austrian border, where the Danube River flows past the great Bavarian Forest. Because Passau is situated at the confluence of three rivers – the Danube, Inn and Ilz – it is also known as “Bavarian Venice.”

4. St. Steven’s Cathedral in Passau St. Steven’s Cathedral is situated on the old town’s highest point, and is considered to be a masterpiece of Italian Baroque. 5. World’s Largest Cathedral Organ Within St. Steven’s Cathedral, is the world’s largest cathedral organ. Containing 17,974 organ pipes, 233 stops and 4 carillons, the organ’s music is an acoustical joy for the spirit.

6. New Bishop’s Residence in Passau Built in the early 18th century when Passau was capital of the largest diocese of the Holy Roman Empire, the New Bishop’s Residence now houses historical treasures. The rococo stairways are worth a peek. 7. Passau Glass Museum Considered to be the most beautiful glass house in the world, the museum houses glasswork from 1650 – 1950, with pieces from the Baroque, Rococo, Empire, Biedermeier, Histo-

HISTORICAL SAUSAGE KITCHEN

rism, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernism periods. Naturally, there is a special emphasis on artisans and works representing Silesia, Bohemia and Bavaria. 8. Burghausen Castle On the road from Passau to Altoetting, is the longest castle in Europe. Burghausen Castle is a Gothic fortification built to protect locals against seiges by the Turks and then advances by the Swedes.

BURGHAUSEN CASTLE

BLACK MADONNA OF ALTOETTING

Bavaria PHOTOS BY KARIN LEPERI

NEW BISHOP’S RESIDENCE IN PASSAU

WORLD’S LARGEST CATHEDRAL ORGAN

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PASSAU ON THE DANUBE

ALTOETTING’S CHAPEL OF MERCY

PASSAU GLASS MUSEUM

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ST. STEVEN’S CATHEDRAL IN PASSAU

9. Altoetting’s Chapel of Mercy The Chapel of Mercy, a small, octagon-shaped church believed to have been built around the year 680, is considered to be the spiritual center of Bavaria. About 1 million people visit the shrine annually to see its most precious artifact – the Black Madonna, which is housed inside the chapel. About 30,000 pilgrims arrive on foot to honor the Madonna. Some compare Germany’s Black Madonna of Altoetting with France’s, Lady of Lourdes as far as spiritual significance.

10. Black Madonna of Altoetting The shrine chapel, the oldest of its kind in Germany, is hewn from volcanic rock. Inside, the linden-wood carved Black Madonna is thought to have darkened when rescued from fire in the year 970. Others speculate that the darkened wood is the result of constant exposure to candle soot and smoke. Whatever the reason, many miracles have been attributed over the years to the Black Madonna of Altoetting. WT

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BLACK MADONNA OF ALTOETTING

A WEEK IN

Marrakesh

WorldTRAVELERÂ® | 2019

BY CRISTINA ARTIGAS

A recent visit to my favorite boutique hotel in Marrakech turned into a quest for the most fantastic hidden gems to be found in the Red City.

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GROUNDS OF KASBAH TAMADOT

MARRAKESH, MORROCO

LA MAMOUNIA

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The opulent, Moorish-inspired La Mamounia hotel elevates Moroccan style to radiant, royalty-worthy heights.

Many people may be familiar with the legendary La Mamounia, or the world famous Royal Mansour, a hotel that some say is the most luxurious in the entire African continent. But not many people know about some of the other truly remarkable hotels to be found in this magical city.

DAY 1 We decided to start our journey at a Boutique Hotel, owned by my friend Maryam Montague and her husband Chris, who are a delightful and interesting couple. Maryam, is the founder of the non-profit organization Project Soar, is a recognized author, designer and the creative mind behind Peacock Pavilions, a Boutique Hotel comprised of two divinely appointed Villas nestled within their property among olive trees and rose bushes, where a guest can come to feel part of a tale in an exotic land.

01 Kasbah Tamadot 02 Palais Namaskar Bar 03 Selma 04 Cuisine 05 Ksar Char Bagh

Upon arrival, we settled in one of the villas named The Atlas Pavilion. We had a cozy dinner of typical Moroccan dishes, then called it a night.

We awoke to a beautiful table set up with homemade jam, fresh fruit, yoghurt, an omelet seasoned with savory spices and what I would call the Moroccan version of a baguette. After our satisfying breakfast we headed out. Our first stop was a spectacular hotel in Marrakech, the Selman, where we had reservations for lunch. Since it was a Sunday, the day came complete with a Grand Buffet, a spectacular Horse Show and live music. A staff member met us at the door and escorted us to the restaurant, which had very few tables. Guests could choose to eat al fresco or under a beautiful pergola. We started the meal with a glass of sangria, followed by the endless tast-

ing of Moroccan and international dishes, grilled fish and lobster. Shortly thereafter began a parade of Arabian stallions. These horses are kept on the property in beautiful stables and are the pride and joy of the fairly new hotel, designed by none other than Jacques Garcia, who is also responsible for the new look of La Mamounia.

DAY 3 We decided to spend our second night in one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s luxury hotels, Palais Namaskar. The experience was unforgettable. Our room had a fireplace, and a private terrace overlooking an elegant lagoon-like pool. I was surprised to discover

that the modern gym facilities include a trainer who will happily set you up with a routine. The restaurant, that serves excellent food, is surrounded by pools, serene gardens and Moorish arches.

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DAY 2

The staff somehow knew it was my birthday that day and scattered rose petals everywhere I went, which made the experience all the more dreamy. The service and attention were unmatched; the Hotel’s ‘s design and architecture is truly stunning.

As we sat down for lunch on the chilly November afternoon, we were each offered a beautiful deep purple cape with detailed stitching and a hood, in case we were cold. I chose to wear it just for the experience.

DAY 4 Leaving the Palais Namaskar, we headed to our next great hotel find, the Ksar Char Bagh. Located in an area of Marrakech called La Palmeraie, this 13-room hotel is quite unique. With the ambiance of a medieval fortress, it surprised us to find luxurious touches at every turn. There is a library, a Spa complete with a very striking marble Hammam, a Grand Salon facing a magnificent pool, and an organic vegetable garden from which the resident Chef finds inspiration in creating an ever-changing menu.

02 01 Atlas Pavilion

Scattered around the manicured grounds

02 Lobby at Selman is a small number of rustic wooden tables,

covered with crisp white linen tablecloths, where guests may enjoy a meal or a cock04 Ksar Char Bagh tail. We left Ksar Char Bagh feeling the 05 Palais Namaskar whole experience had been a dream. 03 Bar at Selman

After a wonderful meal, we strolled along the property, got a spa treatment, lounged by the indoor pool--due to the cooler weather--and headed up to the tower where the library is located. We sat down for some backgammon and suddenly noticed it was raining, which is a rare event in that region. But it made sundown in the Atlas Mountains, in front of a fireplace, very romantic. When we received the offer to have our dinner brought up to us there, we could not refuse. It was an experience like no other. We pledged to be back next time for a longer stay.

DAY5 We drove off to the Atlas Mountains. I knew of a compound perched up in the High Atlas that Sir Richard Branson had purchased and turned into a breathtaking 27-room hotel.

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Our driver took about an hour to get us to this fantastic place. Upon arrival, we were greeted and conducted to the restaurant, which had an outdoor set-up overlooking the valley and the mountains.

KASBAH TAMADOT

DAY 6 No visit to Marrakech would be complete without a Hammam Ritual. We chose Le Bains de Marrakech, a day spa with a wonderful reputation--and what an experience it was! From the minute we arrived, we were taken care of wonderfully by the quiet and friendly staff. The decor is beautiful and the atmosphere peaceful and calming. Since we went as a couple, we got a private room for our treatments. The Hammam ritual consists of a black soap scrub inside a lightly heated steam room, which may be followed by a massage and, of course, some rest and relaxation at the lounge, drinking mint tea. A nice spot for lunch or dinner nearby is the famous La Sultana. Our visit to Le Bains de Marrakech left us renewed and refreshed for our last day.

DAY 7

We were longing for a fun Belly Dance show, along with a nice dinner and, thanks to my friend Maryamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advice, we ended up at the most perfect, hip and modern restaurant. We had a drink in the upstairs bar and then found a table in the middle of the action. And I mean action! Before we knew it, we were surrounded by girls, some covered in veils, others balancing a huge tray full of lit candles on top of their heads, while the music was booming and people were clapping. What an amazing finale to our Moroccan adventure! This trip to Marrakech left me a better person. More inspired, more grateful. What beauty lies within this magical north African city. What mystery, what depth... WT

KASBAH TAMADOT

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We really wanted to go shopping in the Medina, so we hired a guide. We met him at a lunch hotspot in the Medina called Nomad. He came with an assistant, so we

were escorted by gentle and wise locals the entire time. We had a blast bargaining with merchants, shopping for antique Berber jewelry, textiles, rugs, light fixtures, silverware, glassware, ceramics, spices, leather goods and caftans. We ended the night at another hotspot, Azar, in the newer part of town.

KASBAH TAMADOT

peru HISTORY & ADVENTURE

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BY PAULINA BERKOVICH

Lima, peru

When you travel from Lima to Cuzco, all you can see, at the end of one of those quick one-hour flights where you barely even reach cruising altitude, are the mountains. Nestled in the Sacred Valley, Cuzco – already at an altitude of approximately two miles – is surrounded by peaks that rise thousands of feet above it.

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Lima, the capital of Peru, lies on the country’s arid Pacific coast.

Plaza de Armas in Cusco at sunset. Plaza de Armas is a central square in Cusco, Peru.

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he Plaza de Armas, at the heart of this historic city, blends the old and the new, with a majestic 16th-century cathedral on the same corner as a McDonald’s and a Starbucks. At night, the Plaza’s clubs offer beginning salsa lessons before shifting to pop and hip-hop, mostly in English, attracting tourists from around the globe. High above the plaza, Cristo Blanco, a white state of Christ, watches over the city. Hiking to the statue offers breathless hikers a breathtaking view.

It’s been four years since I spent a few months living in Cuzco. Since then, it has continued to modernize – with a Hilton hotel opening just this year – even while questions about its history remain unanswered. Peru is known best for Machu Picchu, the fortress of the Incas, and for its cuisine, which is becoming increasingly popular around the world. These two facets of my trip were undoubtedly memorable, but like threads in my souvenir alpaca sweater, they’re intertwined with too many other adventures and stories to count.

The food took some getting used to. One of the first meals I remember was at a pizza restaurant a block from my hotel, where my roommate and I ended up after getting caught in a downpour. Cuzco is in the southern hemisphere, but January and February are not the heart of summer. It’s the rainy season, and a bright sunny morning can transform with alarming speed into a cold rain that lasts for hours. The neighborhood also had an abundance of chifas that served Chinese food, and I found a falafel restaurant a block from the Plaza de Armas that I often visited for lunch. It took a few weeks for me to start exploring the produce markets in the city, and there were mistakes along the way. When I first bought purple corn, I boiled it for hours, puzzled as to why the kernels did not grow soft, unaware that the corn itself is not meant for eating and that it’s used to give flavor to the water as a base for drinks like chicha morada, a nonalcoholic version of a common alcoholic beverage. But I quickly found that giant corn was a favorite snack. Street vendors served it on the cob, freshly boiled, each kernel the size of my thumbnail. It came with a soft sharp cheese.

Near the end of my semester, I got food poisoning and couldn’t eat corn for three years. Still, I branched out a little. Although I drew the line at trying guinea pig, considered a delicacy, I enjoyed a few tastes of alpaca meat, which had a consistency like steak. Street vendors sold tamales with a variety of fillings, and empanadas were available at every bakery. Causa, which consisted of a layer of mashed potatoes with a filling, was an occasional treat. My second roommate, a vegetarian, taught me to stir fry quinoa. In the introduction to The Everything Peruvian Cookbook, Morena Cuadra and Morena Excardó write, “food has always been at the center of the life and culture of the people who inhabit this fertile, magical, and mysterious land.” In describing the history of Peruvian food, they note that consuming eggs and milk was taboo in pre-Columbian Inca culture, and the use of those products, along with cheese, is a legacy of Spanish influence. Peruvian cuisine has absorbed elements of many immigrant groups: Arab influence can be seen in desserts like alfajores and rice pudding, while Japanese traditions have transformed the preparation of ceviche, raw fish marinated in lime juice.

There were trails

city center small picturesque villages directly from the that passed through

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where the houses had satellite dishes on the roof.

Cuzco offered a taste of all these varieties of food, but Lima is the country’s true culinary capital. Unfortunately, I didn’t spend any time there. Something to consider for my next trip. I took occasional day hikes around Cuzco, returning with a sunburned nose.

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Other times, I took the bus to a different starting point. I explored the architectural ruins at Pisac and went to Lamay. When I went alone, the solitude and silence were absolute.

The first weekend trip I took was to hike Colca Canyon with seven classmates. At about 10,000 feet, it’s one of the world’s deepest and one of the greatest physical challenges I’ve ever faced. We spent one night in bungalows in a village called Oasis. The entire night, we could hear rain pounding against the tin roof, and the start time of our morning hike was delayed from 5 to 6 a.m. I wrote at the time that there were several moments where I thought my back, legs or lungs might give out. Running in Cuzco was ambitious, if not outright foolish.

If I ran in the opposite direction, toward the airport, there was a steep downward incline, which I would have to ascend on the way back. By the end of the semester, I could handle it, running five miles without a break, but for the rest of the day I’d be almost too tired to move. But I recently found out that for extreme athletes, there is an Inca Trail Marathon. The results for the most recent race, run in August 2015, list 22 finishers, 14 of them from the U.S. The women’s course record is slightly under eight and a half hours. At its highest point, it hits an altitude of over 13,800 feet, one of many reasons why a list compiled by the Weather Channel ranks it the world’s toughest marathon. I’m not foolish enough to tell myself I have any interest in trying. Being in Cuzco is living history. But that simple fact makes you very conscious of the traveler’s role in it. There are two sacred sites called Saqaywaman and Tambomachay that take less than an hour to reach from Cuzco. On another occasion, I went to visit Chinchero, where local women

demonstrated traditional weaving techniques. The number of noteworthy sites in the vicinity is staggering. Moray resembles a giant amphitheater. Each one is a testament to the architectural, agricultural and artistic skill of Peru’s native people. Within Cuzco itself, festivals demonstrate the variety of local customs. In a country where over 80 percent of the population identifies at Roman Catholic, indigenous traditions still have a large role to play. In the weekends surrounding the beginning of Lent, in February, there were parades around the Plaza de Armas in which people from surrounding villages wore stunning colorful costumes and danced while spectators threw water balloons and shot foam at one another. Inti Raymi, a major festival dedicated to the sun god, takes place in June. Machu Picchu became a noteworthy tourist attraction after being rediscovered in 1911 – a notion some Peruvians find laughable, considering it was a local who led Hiram Bingham to the ruins. After significant restoration, it looks complete in a way the other sites can’t compare with. It’s easy, walking through the stone structures, to imagine the Incas living there. But among some Peruvian natives, there are strong bitter feelings about the commercial nature of

Cuzco is not unique in facing the challenge of finding a balance between preserving its history and allowing the outside world to see it. But knowing this made it just a little bittersweet to take photos with the native women who stood in the street in traditional costume, knowing tourists might provide them with a tip. A close friend recently told me she’s planning a trip to Peru, and I had so much advice I thought I might burst. Carry cash, because credit cards are not widely accepted. In many cases, dollars are fine. Don’t drink the tap water, at least at first. That means ordering drinks with no ice at restaurants. Don’t plan out every minute, because you might just arrive at your hostel and find out they have a tour group leaving somewhere interesting the next day. Go to Machu Picchu, for sure. But go elsewhere too, because Cuzco has so much more to offer. I got to go to Machu Picchu twice, on trips that were remarkable for different reasons. The quickest way to get there is to go by train to Aguas Calientes, the city at the base of the architectural site, and take a 20-minute bus ride

to the entrance. That was my itinerary the first time. I took a group tour with my classmates and ascended Huayna Picchu, and after a 40-minute half-hike half-climb, we had the perfect vantage point for panoramic shots of the site. Then the fun began. Instead of returning the way we came, I went with a guide and a friend down the reverse side, which led to the Temple of the Moon, a structure the Incas never finished. It rained steadily as we descended, and when we reached it, our guide encouraged us to sit still and meditate. Though I’m rarely spiritual, I still thought I could feel something unusual about the site – but that may be a conclusion I reached in hindsight. I have a photo that I took of my friend where rain must have blurred the exposure. It’s the strangest thing. The background is perfectly clear, but she looks smudged, almost ghostly. I didn’t get to return there on my second visit to Machu Picchu, a the end of a four-day trek that included biking, hiking, zip lining, and crossing a river in something that resembled a basket on a wire. It was that trip that most clearly exemplified the most remarkable aspect of my time in Peru – the opportunity to meet others whose way of life was so different from mine. I had 12 companions on that trip that came from nine different countries, including our Peruvian guide.

Rather than take the bus from Aguas Calientes, several of us decided to climb the 1,800 steps that led to the entrance. The ascent took slightly over an hour, and we arrived just before the park opened at 6 a.m. On a clearer day, we would have seen the sunrise. The clouds did not reduce the sense of victory. I spread a couple other trips throughout the semester. Lake Titicaca, located on the border of Peru and Bolivia at an altitude around 14,000 feet, was perhaps the most memorable. At the village where we stayed the night, each of us was provided with a dress like the locals wore, and when everyone gathered around a bonfire after dinner, we learned a traditional dance. It must have been around nine when we went to sleep. The darkness was impenetrable – the light from a cell phone screen would have been the brightest thing for miles around. When we woke up with the sunrise, we talked about how natural it felt to base our sleep schedule on the daylight. Even as Peru continues to modernize, there are countless ways to experience the traditional culture in an interactive way. For foodies, adventure seekers and history buffs alike, there is no better vacation destination. WT

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this treasured site. Recently, strikes in response to a government initiative allowing private companies to manage tours to Machu Picchu was met with a strike that shut down the site for two days.

THE CURIOUS CASE OF

San Cristobal DE LAS CASAS

WorldTRAVELERÂ® | 2019

BY KARIN LEPERI

Converging Cultures Located at over 7,000 feet in the central highlands of Chiapas, San Cristobal de las Casas is considered by many to be the heart of the indigenous Mayan culture; the economic hub where traditional ethnic groups converge to engage in timeless barter and trade. It is also a crossroads where traditional practices cross paths with modern conveniences, sometimes resulting in bizarre outcomes such as the imbibing of Coca-Cola by indigenous peoples so as to belch evil spirits from the body.

The Magic of San Cristobal San Cristobal is named after a 16th century Spanish priest who ardently defended the rights of the indigenous community and went on to become the first bishop of Chiapas. Today, this vibrant town continues to weave its spell on those who choose to go off the beaten path and experience the melting pot of everything that “was” and “is” in this magical place caught between the annals of time. Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism (SECTUR) is savvy to the charms of San Cristobal for in conjunction with other federal and state agencies, they named it a “Pueblo Mágico” in 2003. The “Magical Villages Program” is an initiative designed to promote a series of towns around the country that offers visitors a “magical” experience by reason of their natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance.

Nevertheless, for all its contradictions, tolerance prevails. In San Cristobal, the contrasts between cultural heritage and modern progress are pliable, somehow softened through a quirky accommodation that pervades the melting pot populace of differing religious beliefs, political views, languages and dialects.

Curiosity and Cobblestone Streets I find myself in this charming colonial city because I am curious about the culture and the proud and tenacious spirit of the indigenous Mayan people. Preferring to not travel solo, I join a photo cultural tour lead by Jim Cline of Jim Cline Photography (JimCline.com). An award-winning photographer, Cline specializes in documenting disappearing cultures of developing nations. It is because of his extensive travels throughout Latin America, along with his compassionate and caring personality, that he has developed a rapport with the locals, thus enabling our small group to shoot priceless

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CHIAPAS IS A LAND BRIMMING WITH LATIN CULTURE, traditional Mayan heritage and tremendously diverse natural beauty; yet many Americans have never even heard of it. And within this geographicallyclose yet culturally-distant Mexican state, lies a place so steeped with colonial charm and architectural beauty, that the sheer mention of it evokes a sense of wonderment and magic by those who dare speak its name. It only adds to the puzzlement how adventurous European travelers have discovered this hidden jewel while American tourists tend to be scarce. This rare jewel is San Cristobal de las Casas.

photographs that would have been impossible to get left to our own endeavors. I take a deep breath of crisp pine-scented mountain air as we traipse the narrow sidewalks and cobble—stoned streets of San Cristobal. We are headed toward our first photo shoot at the Cathedral —an 18th century baroque masterpiece, recently restored to its original color and glory. This is the hub of all cultural activities and takes on a somewhat festive atmosphere with strolling vendors selling pink cotton candy to bystanders.

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Along the way I notice how the myriad white stucco walls and redtiled roofs impart an idyllic character—a gossamer-like quality to this magical place. For a moment things seem surreal - as if I am walking a page in a long-lost history book of a forgotten time and place. However, I seem a step out of time with my surroundings, as if time were reversed. It is a curious case—this San Cristobal.

Over the next couple of days, I realize that one thing is for certain: San Cristobal has much to offer both traveler and photographer. Things to do include: • Sampling the diverse cuisine; • Checking out the constant carnival of activity at the Cathedral and the Centro; • Shopping for great handicrafts on the grounds of Santa Domingo church; • Visiting indigenous villages in the surrounding mountainside.

Cuisine Since San Cristobal is home to many diverse cultures, it makes sense that the culinary scene offers an exquisite array of choices as well as unique blending of foods and recipes—Indian and Spanish in particular. My favorites have a squash blossom theme: a velvety squash blossom soup and tacos with squash blossom and “queso fresco”—a non-aged, creamy and mild white cheese that varies in taste by locale. The local drink—a hard liquor made from cane and sometimes served in a pineapple—seems omnipresent. Called posh, it comes in a variety of flavors and is used traditionally for healing and partying. However, some of the local talk as well as prominent billboards suggest that many of the men overly indulge, leading to episodic violence directed toward the women folk.

Cultural Handicrafts at the Cathedral and Santa Domingo San Cristobal is a treasure trove for those seeking unique handicrafts and products reflective of the local people and economy. From beautifully embroidered Mayan tapestries, textiles, and blouses to fine filigree jade and amber jewelry, the choices are many. Local pottery makers and iron forgers offer one-of-a-kind items for collectors as well as inexpensive trinkets. Be assured that there are price points for all pocketbooks. Expect to pay in pesos; even the stores prefer cash to credit.

Next, I head to Santa Domingo several blocks away, for an afternoon shoot, but not before shopping the stores for local jade and amber. I hear that the jade mines are about an hour north of the city and produce some fine pieces for jewelry. San Cristobal is also noted for its amber, which is actually fossilized resin originating from pine trees. Transparent lumps range in color from yellow to red, and were once used by the ancient Mayans in trade. I find a nice filigree amber ring at Joy Piedra Escondida, a large store specializing in amber and jade jewelry. Since I am running low on coins, the convenience of charging my purchase is greatly appreciated.

I arrive at the former convent of Santa Domingo, right next to the Santa Domingo Church. This is the place to buy high quality embroideries and traditional textiles from groups of Tzotzil and Tzeltal “crafts-people” who operate the cooperative store. Expect the ultimate quality as prices are higher than what you can buy from street stalls and vendors. Open from Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6 p.m.; they do accept credit cards.

A Tale of Two Mayan Towns: and San Lorenzo Zinacantan To truly appreciate the duality of culture and the juxtaposition of indigenous animistic beliefs with Catholicism, one must visit the outlying towns of San Juan Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantan. Here are two different takes—two different lifestyles on how indigenous people reconcile their tradition with the modern world. San Juan Chamula is considered the most authentic traditional Mayan town in Chiapas and enjoys a unique autonomous status within Mexico. Chamulas have their own police force as no outside police or military are allowed in the village. Here the people cling to traditional ways and eschew contemporary Catholicism: religion is a quirky blend of pre-conquest Maya customs, Spanish Catholic traditions, and pragmatic innovations. The church floor is covered with green pine boughs and fallen pine needles, with interspersed candles temporar-

ily waxed to the floor while Chamula families kneel and chant rituals in their native tongue. Smoke from burning copal resin hangs thick in the air while they drink ceremonial cups of Posh and expel evil spirits from the body by drinking and burping Coca-Cola. Raw eggs are broken and an occasional chicken is sacrificed to ward off the evil eye. Cameras are forbidden inside the church as is the taking of photos. San Lorenzo Zinacantan, once the capital of the Tzotzil Maya world, means “land of bats.” The Zinacantan women are easily recognized with their electric indigo blue and purple woven blouses. A more open society, they embrace Catholicism and are more likely to send female children to school. Besides selling textiles and showcasing their weaving skills, the town is engaged in a flourishing flower industry. Be sure to try some of the hot homemade tortillas at the many homes that sell textiles and embroidery. Though there is no charge for the food, a tip is appreciated. Journeys may begin in San Cristobal, but they never really end there: it has something to do with the spirit of the place. There is an infinite, visceral quality that makes this a unique travel experience in time, one that will remain with you long after your journey is done. San Cristobal will challenge your senses while it grabs your heart. There is definitely something curious about San Cristobal. WT

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Starting at the Cathedral or town square, I encounter lovely Mayan girls and women peddling shawls, blankets, and colorfully braided wrist ties - particularly popular with teens. Fellow photographer and friend, Mihail Milea, quickly becomes a favorite with the girls as he empties his pockets while purchasing gifts for family and friends. And because the prices are so ridiculously reasonable, he doesn’t even bargain, though they do let him take their photo. I later asked what was most memorable about San Cristobal, to which he said, “When I think about San Cristobal I see the little Indian girls dressed like the rainbow selling handicrafts in front of the church.” (Later in the trip he was compelled to buy additional luggage for all the blankets, shawls, and tablecloths he purchased.)

MARIA Conchita Alonso Actress, Singer, Songwriter, Activist and Producer—She Does it All! BY KARIN LEPERI

With her sensual voice, Maria Conchita Alonso has mesmerized audiences for three decades. This internationally known, multi-talented Latina was on the move this past year, with concerts in Costa Rica, Peru, Ecuador and Mexico, and will be performing again in Colombia and Mexico during the coming months. Last year Universal Mexico launched a live recorded CD/DVD of GranDiosas, a musical concept including five stars from the eighties and nineties, with which she has been touring for the past five years. This CD/DVD, which went gold, is available on the Internet. At the moment, she is in the studio recording a summer song with acclaimed English producer Gary Miller, to be released worldwide. However, movies are very much in her future. Alonso is in pre-production of In a Little Spanish Town, her fourth film with Edward J. Olmos, and a third one with legendary director Robert M. Young. She is also producing and starring in two other movies that deal with highly sensitive issues. One of them is Courage, a Hollywood production shot in different countries.

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“It is a political love story that concerns a situation in which Venezuela has been living under Hugo Chavez,” she explains. The second movie on her demanding agenda, The Portrait’s Secret, is a true story that involves incest, political and religious corruption.

This coming month she will be shooting a film in Panama and, as an animal activist, will be lending her name and image to educate that country on how to respect and properly treat animals. Alonso is also in the midst of producing and starring in an English-speaking television series, Secrets, about a wealthy real estate Hispanic family, owners of a hotel in the Caribbean, who have been haunted throughout the years by the supernatural disappearance of their young daughter. Also, she is developing Nite Life with Maria Conchita, a variety/ talk show, as well as co-creating and co-writing a feature film, Sister, Sister.

Alonso was the first Latina not born in America to star on Broadway in the 1985 production of Kiss of The Spider Woman. Later, the opportunity to demonstrate her comedic side arrived in 2002, when she played Ynes in Oscar and Felix: A New Look At The Odd Couple, a play by Neil Simon.

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During her career Alonso has performed in more than seventy films. These include such notable movies as Moscow on the Hudson, opposite Robin Williams. In Extreme Prejudice she co-starred with Nick Nolte. She also appeared with an impressive cast that included Glen Close, Meryl Streep, Jeremy Irons, Winona Ryder and Antonio Banderas in House of Sprits. For the movie Scarface, starring Al Pacino, she co-wrote and performed the theme song Vamos a Bailar.

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Besides being nominated for the Independent Spirit Awards for Caught, many awards have rightly come her way, including Best Actress at the Alma Awards, a couple of Nosotros awards for Best Actress, and the Pioneer Award from the 2006 La Femme Film Festival.

Originally given the title of “The Latin Pioneer” of the entertainment industry, she has paved the career paths of other Latin actors and musicians who have successfully crossed over into mainstream American television, film and music. Not surprisingly, People En Español magazine once called her “One of the Most Beautiful People.” With a number of CDs to her credit, the first three going gold, she’s also had one double gold and one platinum – and she has been nominated three times for a Grammy Award. She credits Mexico, which is very dear to her heart, for helping her to make her name as a singer internationally. In looking toward her

future, she is thinking about places to settle eventually. “I love it all!” she exclaims, “I once had a place in Puerto Vallarta – and hope to have something there again someday. I’d like to be on a beach in Mexico, in Spain, in Los Angeles – and Venezuela, if democracy returns!” She maintains homes in Los Angeles and Miami, where her mother lives at present. Only four years old when her far-reaching career began, Maria Conchita played a mouse in The Nutcracker in Cuba; she also obtained her first modeling job that year! However, her career started officially at age 14, when she won the Miss Teen-Ager of Venezuela, and then Miss Teen-Ager of the World in Portugal. In 1975, she won Miss World Venezuela, representing her country in London, becoming sixth runner-up for Miss World. Born in Cienfuegos, Cuba, she moved with her closely-knit family to Caracas, Venezuela, shortly after Fidel Castro’s

communist regime takeover of Cuba. There she grew up with her mother, Maria Conchita Bustillo, father, Ricardo Alonso and two older brothers, Ricardo and Roberto. In addition to her high school education, she took classes in modern dance, ballet, piano, guitar, voice, acting and languages, which certainly proved her to be well prepared for a career in the world of entertainment. She is now an American citizen, having immigrated to the United States in 1982. In spite of her full and exciting life, she still has time to be an animal activist, educating people regarding the plight of animals and working on saving the lives of those that are in shelters. She speaks up for the rights of children and other issues confronting young people. She is also involved politically in such causes as pro-democracy and anti-communist activities, showing the truth of regimes such as those in Cuba and Venezuela. WT

PHOTOS BY BERNAR DODORAL AND JOSÉ LUISLOZANO

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I love it all!” she exclaims, “I once had a place in Puerto Vallarta – and hope to have something there again someday. “ I’d like to be on a beach in Mexico, in Spain, in Los Angeles – and Venezuela, if democracy returns!”

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Finland

FOREVER

THE MIKKELI LAKELAND REGION BY KARIN LEPERI

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01 Ollinmäki Winery

The Mikkeli Region, former province of Eastern Finland and now part of the Southern Savonia region, is in the very heart of Lakeland Finland between Lakes Saimaa, Puula and Kyyvesi. It’s also the largest holiday villa area in the entire country. It’s where you go to enjoy summer in the country by a lake and where most holiday villas are equipped with private saunas and boats. It’s where you go foraging for favorite Finnish foods that include lingon and cloud berries along with forest mushrooms. It’s where you dine on farm-to-table freshness. And above all, it’s where you go to sweat out stress in a Finnish sauna.

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Ollinmaki Winery for Berry and Fruit Wines My local Finnish friend Taija is driving me around to showcase the best of the Mikkeli Region. First, we are off to the countryside with a visit to a local wine farm. There are about 25 wineries throughout Finland and Ollinmaki is especially known for their berry and fruit wines. Fruit flavors are intensified because of the short northern summers coupled with the magic of the midnight sun. Their robust offerings include sparkling wine, cider, berry wines, and liqueurs.

02 Berry & Fruit Wines 03 Anttolanhovi Villas 04 Finnish Dessert 05 Kenkavero Fish Skin Craftsman

magnificent yet eco-friendly luxury awaiting me at the Anttolanhovi Art & Design Villas. The villas, located by Lake Saimaa, are built from all natural materials, with walls from Finnish birch and floors and yard slabs from domestic stone. Each interior is custom decorated by a commissioned artist featuring their art and comfy textiles such as linen, cotton and wool. The contemporary structures also feature floor-to-ceiling windows, so as to integrate with the natural scenery.

After sampling sevral of the luscious berry wines and buying a reserve, it’s time for a three-hour drive to the four-star Anttolanhovi Art & Design Lakeside villa complex, near the town of Anttola.

The Hillside Villas are called the Lanterns, a concept by Timo Leiviska who was chosen to implement his design. (At night with vertical bands of filtered light they look like lit lanterns). Each villa faces the shoreline while wooden grilles shielding the patio from sun even as they provide privacy. The design combines art as part of the architecture and interior.

Palonen describes them as buildings “in which the fine arts and design would be solidly integrated, a bit like in a bird’s nest.” My private villa comes with my own kitchen, sauna, rowing boat, bicycles and barbecue. The kitchen is excess to my needs as I order their bountiful breakfast which is served direct to my villa in the morning.

Finland’s Secret Luxury Getaway: Anttolanhovi Art & Design Villas Taija did little to prepare me for the

As I check-in to my amazing hillside Art & Design Villa, the clean lines of modern decor elevate my sense of clarity and simplicity. Director Juhani

The Anttolanhovi Wellness Complex features a jogging track, ski track, nature trail, exercise track, bicycle route, tennis courts, saunas, pools, and a

day spa. A traditional smoke sauna is conveniently located in the heart of the complex. For wintertime fun, they even have sleighs and sledges - a sledge being a vehicle on runners and pulled by horses. The lakeside restaurant seats up to 160 persons, featuring fine cuisine that only sources from local purveyors, producers, and fisherman. My fresh salmon dinner was succulent and delicate in flavor. This is an extremely popular retreat for Finns as well as Europeans and Russian businessmen because of their wide range of meeting, event, hotel and restaurant services, so reservations are necessary. fall asleep easily after my relaxing in-villa sauna, enjoying the art, architecture, design and luxury that are all encompassing.

Though my shopping is rushed because of our tight schedule, I still score with linen purchases of a shawl, infinity scarf, neck scarf, and a pair of socks for my college-aged son. But before leaving we pick a basket of luscious strawberries to take with us for the road. Kenkavero: Biggest Historical Vicarage in Finland Our next stop is to a former rectory-turnedfolk center. It includes restored buildings, a vicarage garden, handicraft workshops, and home to one of Finland’s largest design boutiques. Here I find Finnish handicrafts, clothing, and accessories. There is even a workshop that specializes in fish skin wallets. The perfect gift to bring back to someone who has everything.

Tertti Manor for Gardens, Namesake Roses and Finnish Food Products Tertti Manor, a functioning farm and cozy manor hotel, is home to the famous Tertti Rose - tertin ruusu. With a distinctively delicate fragrance, the blushing rose peaks in the middle of July - an enigmatic reminder of why this place is so special. Ask to see the Garden of Secrets, a place of extreme beauty and serenity. Another garden is dedicated to herbs and root vegetables planted by color. And though I didn’t have time to eat at the restaurant, the grains and vegetables served there are grown right on the premises - farm-to-fork experience. (I did order a coffee and traditional Finnish pastry from the cafe that were absolutely scrumptious.) A well-stocked shop sells Finnish food products and delicacies along with items for the home and garden. I bought some of their famous smoked whitefish - delicious with a mustard vinaigrette and boiled potatoes. However, I regret not having purchased the rose petal soap and rose cream, made with rainwater and their famous Tertii Rose. It’s a classic rose scent that stays evermore in the memory - wafting of warm summer days and moist gentle breezes. It’s what will forever remind me of Finland. WT www.VisitFinland.com www.VisitMikkeli.fi

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Raijan Aitta for Linens and Berries Next morning after an exquisite breakfast of local berries, cheeses, bread, and yogurt in my villa, Taija and I head to a family-owned and operated Raijan Aitta. It is noted for its yarns and fibers, spools of colorful linen, textiles, and beautiful infinity scarves, shirts and skirts, socks, and spa essentials. A countryside destination, it also offers cottages for idyllic country stays and has fields of raspberries and strawberries where you hand-pick to your heart’s delight. Inside their store is a rather robust display of linen - from yarn to textile to clothing - as well as a cafe where you can enjoy great coffee and specialty cakes of the day.

The linen clothes, shawls, and infinity scarves immediately captures my attention, with colors and styles that are definitely Finnish but very appealing to any international shopper. Linen is the natural choice of material for a variety of beautiful and high-quality home textiles and clothing. Since it is smooth, the finished fabric is lint-free, and becomes softer the more it is washed. Besides, it keeps you cool in the heat while warm in the cold and feels pleasant to your skin. Perhaps that is why it is the obvious choice in Finland for sauna textiles. From robes to towels, they have a varied assortment for the sauna experience.

PHOTOS BY KARIN LEPERI

RIO DE JANEIRO A Flurry of Sights and Flavors

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BY PAULINA BERKOVICH

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Even on the haziest days, the views from both Corcovado Mountain and Sugarloaf Mountain are breathtaking – vivid green trees and stunningly blue water. From Sugarloaf Mountain, the statue of Christ the Redeemer is visible in the distance, watching over Rio de Janeiro. Although I had barely 48 hours to spend in Rio, I knew that both of these landmarks are not to be missed.

he Christ statue, nearly 40 meters tall, stands at the top of Corcovado Mountain. There are many ways to reach it, from taxis and trains to hiking tours where visitors trek for two and a half hours through the rainforest to the mountain’s summit. I took the train, a relaxing and scenic ride once I made it through the line.

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There is no better way to appreciate both the beauty and enormity of Brazil’s second most populous city. On one side, the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon, with the Atlantic Ocean in the distance, is partially surrounded by high-rise buildings but also offers bike paths and paddle boat

rentals. During the holidays, a floating Christmas tree adds a festive touch, though last year it was damaged by severe winds. On the opposite side stretches an environmental protection area. Sugarloaf Mountain, named for its distinctive shape, is close enough to easily visit on the same day. Two glass cable cars bring visitors to the summit with a gorgeous view the whole way, although the ride takes just a few minutes. Since it’s located on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean, the most memorable view is of glittering waves stretching endlessly into the horizon. Rio de Janeiro is a tropical paradise of cultural gems, delicious food and idyllic beaches. Pay a visit to a traditional steakhouse and you’ll have your pick of delicious cuts of meat, brought to the table by waiters, as well as an appetizer buffet that could easily be a meal by itself. Simpler meals typically involve black beans and rice, but a topping of farofa, or fried cassava flour, adds unusual texture and flavor. For those with a sweet tooth, the variety of desserts at Rio’s bakeries is nearly endless. Brigadeiro, a chocolate truffle covered in sprinkles, is a real show-stopper. The fresh fruit is just as memorable. Frozen acai sold by street vendors is the perfect way to beat the heat, while coconut, practically straight off the tree, tastes infinitely better than the store-bought variety. But possibly my favorite meal was from Chez Michou, a creperie in Buzios. Located a short drive east of Rio de Janeiro, Buzios is one of

the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful beaches, perfect for relaxing days or activities like surfing. Upscale restaurants feature cuisines from around the world, but Chez Michou is a casual bar-like spot where you can watch the cooks prepare crepes topped with your choice of fruit or ice cream. Since it stays open until 2 a.m., it makes a perfect dessert for the end of the day. Brazil is not the place to watch your diet.

Rio de Janeiro hosts its fair share of highprofile events, from the Olympic Games to the world-famous annual Carnival in February or March. But visit this breathtaking Brazilian state anytime for a vacation youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never forget. WT

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The heart of downtown Buzios is the Rua das Pedras, a cobblestone street buzzing with activity, especially later in the day. Vendors offer locally made arts and crafts, ideal for souvenir shopping.

EDITOR'S

TOP PICK

WorldTRAVELER® | 2019

BY PAULINA BERKOVICH

MEXICO HAS PLENTY OF BREATHTAKING DESTINATIONS TO CHOOSE FROM, BUT NONE CAN COMPETE WITH THE CHARM OF MERIDA — AND NO HOTEL IN MERIDA OFFERS A BETTER EXPERIENCE THAN ROSAS & XOCOLATE. OWNER CAROL KOLOZS FISCHER HAS CREATED AN ELEGANT BLEND OF ART, FASHION, AND COMFORT, COMPLETE WITH AN AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANT AND OTHER AMENITIES THAT WILL MAKE SURE YOUR VISIT IS NOTHING SHORT OF MAGICAL.

Paseo de Montejo Mérida, Yuc., Mexico RosasandXocolate.com

The name of the hotel honors both family and local history, recognizing that cocoa has played a major role in the Mayan civilization that once flourished in the surrounding area. In the spa, guests can experience majestic sensory experiences that utilize not only chocolate but also Mexican herbs, spices, and essential oils to leave guests feeling transformed and rejuvenated. In all the luxurious rooms at Rosas & Xocolate, you’ll find modern amenities in a setting crafted completely from natural, mostly local, materials. The spacious master suite, with its high vaulted ceilings and abundant natural light, is perfect for families or friends to vacation. You’ll be pampered with thoughtful touches such as 100% natural handmade chocolate soaps.

In all the rooms, cozy Egyptian cotton sheets will ensure your comfort, and state-of-the-art technology - including a flat-screen TV, BOSE sound system, and wireless high speed internet - will ensure that you don’t miss a beat. But when you want to step away, you’ll have access to a pool and spa, and the city will be right at your doorstep.

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At the restaurant, you’ll find unique cocktails and Mexican wines by the glass. The menu is a fusion of local and global flavors, with outstanding, attentive service to make sure you enjoy every moment of your meal. From the rich meats to exquisite desserts, guests will be sure to find the perfect dishes to satisfy any craving.

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Recently, Traveler Publications’ Editor-in-Chief; Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo, was able to experience a weekend stay at one of the resort’s master suites. “We had an amazing stay! EVERYTHING about the Rosas & Xocolate was simply – A M A Z I N G!” she said. Whether you prefer to travel back in time or enjoy a modern, innovative city, Merida has the best of both worlds. With ancient Mayan architectural sites easily accessible in a day trip, travelers can marvel at centuries-old buildings and learn about Mayan culture, which remains a vibrant part of life in the Yucatan’s capital.

“WE HAD AN AMAZING STAY! EVERYTHING ABOUT THE ROSAS & XOCOLATE WAS SIMPLY – A M A Z I N G!” — MAYTÉ RODRÍGUEZ, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Another spectacular day trip is to the cenotes, or groundwater pools with crystal-clear water, perfect for swimming or snorkeling. If swimming isn’t for you, consider a tour of caves and caverns, with columns naturally formed by stalagmites and stalactites. You can enjoy these amazing views while staying dry.

Long known as an outstanding destination, Merida has never had more to offer travelers, with its beautiful beaches and luxurious haciendas. In addition to a vacation, this may even be an ideal destination for a special event like a wedding or a reunion. No matter what time of year you travel, Merida has countless activities to choose from. Even during humid summer days, the beautiful beaches offer relief from the heat. And travel during December offers the added bonus of enjoying the city’s unique Christmas traditions. There’s never been a better time to visit Merida! And when you go, Rosas & Xocolate is without a doubt among the best places to stay. WT

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For those brave enough to try their hand at cooking some of the region’s world-famous dishes, a range of cooking classes will introduce you to tamales, tostadas, empanadas, and much more. Or simply take a walking tour and enjoy these delicacies at a local cantina or market.

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Where elegance is never out of style

FOUR SEASO The Biltmore Santa Barbara BY RICK STEDMAN

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SONS

The luxurious Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara epitomizes the casually sophisticated California lifestyle. This one-of-a-kind resort invites guests to indulge in everything from tours of local wineries, golfing, surfing, relaxing on the beach or lounging poolside at the exclusive Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club.

his exquisite property is located on Butterfly Beach in Montecito just outside Santa Barbara, cradled between the Pacific Ocean and Santa Ynez Mountains. The two-story structure features 207 rooms, and is designed in Spanish Colonial adobe with red roof tiles and graceful archways. The brick walkways are lit by romantic gas lanterns set amidst lush tropical gardens. Closing in on 90 years of dedicated pampering of guests, The Biltmore, now a Four Seasons resort, was originally built in 1927, and now restored to its former glory as the region’s most outstanding resort experience. Back when Los Angeles was still a cowboy town, the film industry was located up the coast in Santa Barbara. Today, the studios have moved to Hollywood, while “America’s Riviera” remains a playground of the glitterati, who come for weekends and for the annual film festival. Bungalows are popular

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A popular choice for accommodations at the Biltmore are the bungalows, which offer a throwback to the former era, but are infused with a touch of modern luxury. The resort’s director of public relations Daniel Howard shared that when the resort first opened its doors in 1927, it featured bungalows scattered throughout the 22-acre resort, in keeping

EDITOR'S

TOP PICK with the preferred style of guest rooms sought after by Hollywood celebrities. The casual-style buildings feature distinctive architecture, hardwood floors and patios providing privacy and a separation from the main buildings where the restaurants and a majority of the resort’s guest rooms are located. With the increase in family and multi-generational travel, the demand for bungalows has returned and each of the 12 bungalows at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara can now be reserved for parties of up to 16 individuals in four distinct accommodation for each of the bungalow buildings. Bungalows also can be reserved in two-bedroom and threebedroom suite configurations. Recently, Traveler Publications’ Editor-in-Chief; Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo,

was able to experience a weekend stay at one of the resort’s bungalows. “We had a wonderful weekend! EVERYTHING about the Resort was simply – A M A Z I N G!” she said. The bungalow guest rooms also feature tasteful antiques and fireplaces, alongside colorful Spanish Colonial tile bathrooms with heated floors. All bungalows also boast private outdoor patio spaces with seating and tables for al fresco dining. The size, room layout, and privacy of the bungalows also make them ideal for the booking of in-room Spa treatments. Bungalow guests also enjoy brand new 52-inch flat screen televisions, new artwork selected for each individual accommodation, new upholstered seating and luxurious floor-to-ceiling window curtains giving the homes a freshly-decorated look and feel while maintaining the essence of a country-style home that transports guests to an era where artistry and quality reigned supreme. Saying “I do”

The Mariposa Garden surrounds smaller wedding parties in Spanish Colonial splendor while providing an unobstructed view of the ocean horizon and the Channel Islands in the background. Most Mariposa Garden ceremonies utilize the oceanfront El Mar ballroom, complete with dramatic fireplace for dinners and receptions. Larger parties enjoy the floor-to-ceiling La Marina ballroom that frames the Pacific Ocean. Loggia Ballroom features high ceilings, crystal chandeliers, and a stun-

ning terrace for pre- or post-wedding receptions. Monte Vista Lawn provides a dramatic setting surrounded by a grove of trees and the majestic Santa Ynez Mountains rising in the background. When Sean Lowe and Catherine Guidici of ABC’s The Bachelor needed to find a location to tie the knot, they selected none other than the Monte Vista Lawn at Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara for a ceremony that ended up being viewed by a television audience of more than 6.2 million worldwide. Two of the must-have photo settings for couples are the Spanish Colonial “turret” and staircase and the resort’s enormous Moreton Bay fig tree, which has been growing in Montecito since 1877. Wedding parties travelling together oftentimes seek out the secluded bungalow accommodations mentioned above. Enjoy the Spaaaaaa If personal indulgence is on your agenda during a visit, the resort

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Featuring lush gardens throughout the property, the Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara offers one of the most coveted locations for brides and grooms exchanging vows. The resort has six distinctive wedding event spaces that suit every taste and party size from intimate ceremonies to those on a grand scale. The ocean front La Pacifica Ballroom and Terrace is located directly on top of pristine Butterfly Beach and the resort enjoys customizing lighting so that when the sun goes down, the ocean tides are cast in the hues of the couple’s wedding theme.

spa offers an inspiring array of restorative beauty treatments based on the bounty of the sea blended with botanicals from the gardens of Santa Barbara. Enjoy 11 personalized spa treatment rooms – including four day suites, each with a fireplace – or in the privacy of your guest room. Choose from 14 different massages, including hot stone, couple’s, deep tissue, and Swedish. You can also indulge in a wide range of body treatments from body wraps and scrubs to soothing baths. Restore your natural radiance and maintain a youthful complexion with advanced facial treatments. Also, José Eber Santa Barbara offers a wide range of luxurious hair styling, coloring, and make-up services in a serene and glamorous setting. Whatever your indulgence, you can find it at the Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara. WT

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Visit FourSeasons.com/santabarbara.

editor's

TOP PICK

“We had a wonderful weekend! EVERYTHING about the Resort was simply – A M A Z I N G!”

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—Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo, Editor-in-Chief

New Zealand's

HOBBITON

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MIDDLE EARTH MOVIE MANIA

When J.R.R. Tolkien penned the epic fantasy series The Lord of the Rings trilogy and The Hobbit, he dreamed and wrote about a bucolic setting for The Shireâ&#x201E;˘ from Middle Earth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with Hobbiton as hometown for the race of wee hobbits.

BY KARIN LEPERI

His descriptions were forged from his cut in ancient texts. The place had to be rural and capture the simple joys of country life. It is with this background in mind that New Zealand filmmaker Peter Jackson understood the need to bring Middleearth alive when he set about searching for just the right location for The Lord of the Rings. He was looking for a lush and stunning countryside with rolling green paddocks and a giant tree. Finally, after an exhaustive aerial search, Jackson and his scouting crew found an ideal location in the Waikato township knolls of Matamata, located on the North Island of New Zealand. Here, on a working sheep and beef farm, they would re-create Frodo’s mythical journey, set in a time somewhere between the dawning of fairies and the rule of men.

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Site construction began in 1999 for The Lord of the Rings, with some plantings done up to a year in advance so as to look natural. Then, with his trademark attention to detail, Jackson transformed the twelve-acre site into the Hobbiton Movie

set. However, after the filming was over and in typical movie fashion of the day due to liability issues, the set was torn down. Then came the announcement of a prequel trilogy involving The Hobbit. The films included The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey, The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug, and The Hobbit: There and Back Again. So, the set was rebuilt in 2011 for the filming of where it all started – The Hobbit and has now become a permanent fixture and international attraction to lovers of middle-earth. The home of Bilbo and Frodo is alive with flowers, crops, and a sundry of items that hobbits find useful in their everyday lives. As expected, Peter Jackson’s trilogy based on J.R.R. Tolkien’s fantasy novel The Hobbit, went on to reap a slew of awards, including seven academy awards.

Film Tourism in

NEW ZEA LA ND In addition to The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies, shot exclusively in the majestic, fairy-tale vistas of New Zealand, other notable movies and television shows have also taken advantage of New Zealand scenery. These include: The Piano, The Avatar, The Last Samurai, The Legend of Zoro, Xena, Hercules and the Narnia films: The Lion, The Witch, & The Wardrobe and Prince Caspian. It is estimated that 5% of tourism is inspired by movies, and what has emerged is that Asian travelers are some of the most dedicated film tourists. As a result, new terminology has been coined to capture this phenomena - from “movie tourism” and “film tourism” to “set-jetting” and “location vacation.” Whatever term used, it simply captures a concept that connects travelers with sites made famous by movies and television. The one certain thing is that by getting a country or location into a movie is the equivalent of the ultimate product placement. The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies have effectively generated a worldwide interest for travelers to come see the sights of middle-earth in New Zealand. In some people’s minds, New Zealand is middle-earth. Images don’t always have to be positive, either. Even with negative images like the Breaking Bad crime television series filmed in Albuquerque, New Mexico, the city discovered that people are still anxious to visit filming locations in an effort to connect with the series. As a matter of reference, Breaking Bad entered the Guinness World Records in 2013 as the most critically acclaimed show of all time. And Albuquerque, New Mexico continues to draw movie tourists from around the world as a result.

First opened in 2002, Hobbiton is one of New Zealand’s most popular attractions, easily attracting upwards of 350,000 annually. Middle-Earth comes alive with 44 hobbit holes, the mill and Party Tree, bridges, gardens, and Bag End - where Frodo and Bilbo’s adventures began, and the Green Dragon Inn. In fact, the Green Dragon is an exact movie replica, and is a spot where you can sip a cold beer or cider. Be sure to sample some traditional Hobbit fare like beef and ale pie. Then check out the Shire Store for hobbit memorabilia as a remembrance of your journey to middle-earth.

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PHOTOS BY KARIN LEPERI

While some of the hobbit holes, including the house of Bilbo Baggins, are at a scale for human exploration, many are miniature in size and include pint-sized clothes hung out to dry, honey pots, baskets of wool to spin, brooms, rakes, chairs, flowers, drying herbs, and even cabbage gardens. All represents the painstaking detail that went into the production of Jackson’s films. A year-round tour of the Hobbiton Movie set is $75, which includes transport to and from the set and a complimentary drink at the Green Dragon Inn. A guide will narrate the background details of the set and how it was built. The Evening Dinner Tour at $190 is a special luminary treat where you are treated to a banquet of Hobbit fare, along with a nighttime tour of the fantasy land of Hobbiton. Just like in the days of the hobbits, an authentic handheld lantern will help guide the way. WT

ISRAEL’S

MOUNT HERMON

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BY RICK STEDMAN

Snowshoeing in Israel sounds like an oxymoron, but it is something that should be on every adventuresome traveler’s bucket list. Mount Hermon, in the northern reaches of this tiny Middle East country, offers plenty of snow from December through April. Stretching to 9,232 feet in elevation, construction of a ski resort on Mount Hermon began in 1971.

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Today, the resort boasts 11 ski lifts and 14 trails totaling 28 miles. The ski lodge provides rental equipment at a modest cost, as well as a store for those who wish to purchase their own gear. Snowshoers will need to bring their own equipment, though, since this is an activity that most Is-

raelis haven’t experienced, let alone heard of. As such, this makes snowshoeing in Israel even more special. A country teeming with history and centuries-old conflicts, Israel is the epicenter of the Holy Land. Treading on snowshoes atop Mount Hermon gives you the feeling of overlooking the entire country, which stretches a mere 290 miles north to south, and a short 85 miles west to east, from the Mediterranean coast to the Dead Sea. For comparison, Israel is about the size of New Jersey. Located in the Golan Heights region of Israel, Mount Hermon affords visitors a view of Lebanon, Syria, the Galilee, and portions

of northern Israel. This area is so unique and picturesque that it’s worth a visit any time of year. There are guided walks from the top of the ski lift, which really highlight the magnificent views and nature. It’s rather incongruous to see the artificial snowman in the dead of summer when the temperatures are hovering around 95 degrees Fahrenheit! In winter, though, that scene is a perfect complement for the location! In addition to its unique ski and snowshoe options, another little-known fact about Israel is its burgeoning wine industry. Though Jesus was said to turn water into wine during biblical times, history reveals that the wine produced back then was not

If you plan on spending a few days in Israel’s northern snow country, you’ll be surprised to discover a bit of Alpine hospitality available in some of the nearby villages a few miles from Mount Hermon. Similar to something you’d expect in Europe or some U.S. winter resorts, Rimonim Holiday Village is a comfortable mountainous retreat located in the small town of Neve Ativ. Surrounded by tranquil pastures and a nature preserve at the foot of Mount Hermon, Rimonim’s cabin-style lodges are ideal for a winter ski holiday. They are perfect for a family vacation or romantic getaway, and there are 44 quaint wooden cottages that can accommodate up to five adults. All rooms have the creature comforts you’d expect, including satellite TV, Wi-Fi, coffee maker, mini-frig, and more. The Holiday Village is especially kid-friendly, with an on-site petting zoo. Also, during winter, the Holiday Village’s pool is heated, and the Finnish-style steam bath is especially invigorating during the cold winter months. Spa treatments may be booked in advance, for a truly unique holiday experience.

Also in Neve Ativ is the By the River Zimmer resort, which features free Wi-Fi in public areas, optional breakfast in the morning, and barbecue facilities. The rooms are fitted with a flat-screen TV, offering both cable and satellite channels, a seating area with sofa, a balcony or patio that are fitted with garden furniture. Bathrooms are either private or shared. You can also order room service, or have groceries of your choice delivered right to your room. A mini market is also located in the lodge and a 24-hour guest service at the front desk. The town of Neve Ativ also offers other resort options, along with a wide selection of restaurants and bars. Although Mount Hermon is certainly not in the top 10 on the worldclass ski resort list, it nevertheless a unique experience, and a great choice for a winter vacation. More information can be found at www.goisrael.com WT

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what you would call a quality product! Today, however, is a different story. The Golan Heights Winery is at the forefront of the Israeli wine scene, producing labels like Mount Hermon Red and Mount Hermon Indigo. These wines can be a great way to relax after a day of snowshoeing on Mount Hermon. The Golan Heights Winery was the first of its kind in Israel, dating back to 1976.

EMOTIONAL LONDON SUPPORTS

Global Gift Gala BY PAULINA BERKOVICH

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Stars including Eva Longoria, Victoria Beckham, and Sheeva Moshiri were in attendance on November 30 at the sixth annual Global Gift Gala London, which benefitted the Eva Longoria Foundation, the Diana Award and the Global Gift Foundation. Highlights of the event included an auction and exclusive performances, but the most emotional portion was the reading of a letter from Princes William and Harry, who expressed their wish to continue their relationship with the charitable foundation in 2016. “It is an honor to have the support of the British Royal Family. Your letter gives us more strength to continue with the fight for the most in need,” said María Bravo, co-founder of the Global Gift Foundation. Two awards were given to recognize outstanding charities. Victoria Beckham presented the ‘Global Gift Our Heroes Award’ to mothers2mothers, and Eva Longoria, an honorary chair, presented the ‘Global Gift Humanitarian Award’ to Katie Piper. The mission of mothers2mothers is end the transmission of HIV to children in eight African countries by empowering local mothers through health education and support.

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Mentor Mothers have had a further positive impact by becoming role models in their communities.

The Katie Piper Foundation helps victims of burns and scars by providing hair restoration, medical tattooing and other services. Katie Piper herself faced more than 30 surgeries after her boyfriend threw sulphuric acid in her face. “Her spirit of overcoming is matched only by her bravery and her dedication to others,” María Bravo said. Eva Longoria took the time to attend the event despite the fact that she has been busy with a new television project called Telenovela, a comedy on NBC in which she plays Ana Sofia, a soap opera star. Still, the actress said she remains committed to initiatives, like her foundation, that benefit those in need. “Going back to London is very reassuring as we know that the people here have a strong social conscience,” she said. The funds raised for the Eva Longoria Foundation will go toward entrepreneurship programs and micro loans to benefit Latina women in the United States. The Global Gift Foundation will allocate the funds it raised to a multifunctional project providing treatment and therapy for special-needs children and their families.

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EVA LONGORIA, MARIA BRAVO AND VICTORIA BECKHAM

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Others in attendance at the Gala included Jessica NS Robert Pires, Ken Paves, Lorena Bernal, Miquel Arteta, Anastacia, Mago Pop, Tallia Storm, Ronan Keating, Kym Mazelle, and other entrepreneurs and businessmen. The Global Gift Gala was sponsored by Helmer, Frédérique Constant, Duc de la Rose, Rioja, and Four Seasons Hotel London in Park Lane.

Ronan Keating, Kym Mazelle, Collette Cooper, Stooshe, Bethany Hare and the female DJ duo The Glitter Beats.

Items that were auctioned off included works by Picasso and Dali, a visit to the set of Telenovela, and dresses worn by both Eva Longoria and Victoria Beckham. Performers included Sarah-Jane Crawford, Anastasia,

“My brother Harry and I want to thank with this letter the unconditional support for the Diana Award which is so important to us and our mother,” he wrote. The mission of the Diana Award, which was established over

Although the Prince of Wales did not attend, he expressed his gratitude in a letter read by presenter Nick Ede. He previously worked with María Bravo on an anti-bullying project in September.

16 years ago in memory of the late Princess of Wales, is to inspire and recognize young people who have a social impact. As part of one of its major programs, over 15,000 ambassadors provide training workshops at thousands of United Kingdom schools. Other events for the Global Gift Foundation, which was founded in 2013 by María Bravo and Alina Peralta, took place last fall in Miami and Dubai. This philanthropic non-profit seeks to create an ever greater positive impact in the lives of needy women, children, and families. WT

LORENA BERNAL & MIKELARTETA

TESSY OJO & BETHANY HARE

RONAN & STORM KEATING

KATIE PIPER

EVA LONGORIA AND MARIA BRAVO

OLIVIER & JENNIFER GIROUD

TALLIA STORM

MATHIEU FLAMINI & SHEEVA MOSHIRI

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VICTORIA BECKHAM

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Golfing on Iceland... like golfing on the moon BY RICK STEDMAN

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ICELAND

While playing Kidjaberg Golf Course (CKB), I was accompanied by Icelandic PGA professional Einar Lyng Hjaltason, a fellow lefty. We teed it up on a typical drizzly September morning. Note: The average high-low temperatures for September are 52 and 43 degrees, respectively, while the heat of the summer is experienced in July when high temperatures average a mere 60 degrees! Kidjaberg Golf Course is located about an hour’s drive south of Reykjavík in the western portion of the country. The course is set in a picturesque landscape between the river Hvitá (White River) and Hestvatn Lake. The par 71 course stretches to 6,530 yards and is renowned for its bucolic setting.

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You’d think that golfing in September would be an ideal time of year. That’s true for the most part – unless you’re golfing in Iceland, where the northern reaches of this island country extend beyond the Arctic Circle. To put that into perspective, both Fairbanks, Alaska and Reykjavik, Iceland sit at the 64th parallel.

With just over 10 percent of Iceland consisting of lava rocks, most of the country’s 64 golf courses are carved out of Mother Nature’s natural beauty. Because of its numerous volcanoes, geysers, and glaciers, Iceland is known as the land of fire and ice. Just slightly smaller than Cuba or the state of Kentucky, Iceland features 18 courses that are 18 holes; the remainder are nine-hole tracks, and all courses in Iceland are open to the public. In greater Reykjavik, or Rey-K as the locals refer to it, there are 10 golf courses, six of which are 18 holes. Reykjavik, the capital, is home to nearly half of the 325,000 inhabitants of this northernmost European country in the heart of the North Atlantic Ocean.

On the fifth hole, Einar introduced me to wild crow berries, which look and taste similar to small blueberries; a nice pick-me-up along the way. The real treat, however, came at the turn. Stepping into the club house to take a short break, I was treated to a bowl of homemade lamb stew with lots of vegetables and warm bread. Talk about hitting the spot on a cold day! Not only is Icelandair a good choice for flying to Iceland, they also include nine hotels in their portfolio which are spread throughout the country. Since the 1960s, the Icelandair Stopover has been offered to entice passengers traveling to Europe to stop in Iceland for up to seven nights at no additional airfare. Iceland Must-Do List In addition to trying out the golf courses, here are several things you should visit:

The Blue Lagoon Named one of the 25 wonders of the world by National Geographic, the Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s most unique and popular attraction, located 40 minutes from Rey-K. The geothermal seawater averages 98-104 F degrees, and contains minerals, algae and silica, the active ingredients they say promote harmony within the body, mind, and spirit, while soaking away the stresses of modern life, or those from the golf course! I spent three hours relaxing in the warm water of the Blue Lagoon. Also, the Lava Restaurant next door has great daily specials that include fresh fish and lamb.

Sun Voyager Sculpture This is Reykjavik’s most photographed site. The Sun Voyager is a sculpture designed by Jón Gunnar Árnason created to resemble a Viking ship. Many people simply call it, the Viking Monument.

Swimming Pools Swimming pools are a big deal in Iceland. You will find them in every town. Given Iceland’s geothermal make up, you can find many outdoor geothermal pools similar to the Blue Lagoon. These are a great place to freshen up or relax after a day of touring or golfing.

RVing in Iceland During my visit to Iceland, I talked with several travelers from the U.S., Canada, and Germany who were exploring the country in an RV. They all concurred that the travel flexibility in an RV was the best way to explore Iceland. Recreational vehicles, called caravans in Iceland and other European countries, are widely available for rent. One company called Extreme Iceland provides a wealth of options. Check them out at https://www.extremeiceland.is/en/car-rental-iceland/campervans.

Northern Lights During the nighttime hours from October through March, Mother Nature paints the Icelandic skies with vivid greens and iridescent indigos during the annual Northern Lights spectacle.

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon This is one of the most fascinating stops in Iceland. This lagoon was created by glacier melt a mere 50 years ago. It’s growing rapidly as the polar ice cap melts and these icebergs in the water are from the glacier in the distance. They sit in the lagoon until they melt enough to float out to sea.

For more information on the unique offerings of Iceland, visit www.visiticeland.com.

Icelandic Horses For more than a thousand year, the small but amazingly strong Icelandic horse has played a vital role in the country’s history. Brought over from Norway by the first settlers, they are world-famous for their range of gait. You can ride an Icelandic horse at Laxnes Horse Farm, just 10 minutes’ drive from Rey-K.

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The Golden Circle This 180-mile loop begins and ends in Rey-K and covers three main locations – Pingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss, and the erupting geyser Strollur in Haukadalur.

ROOM WITH A VIEW

Montage Los Cabos A B aja Oasis featuring one of the BEST Spas in Los C abos!

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SPA & WELLNESS

Inspired by the rhythms of the ocean and local traditions, rituals at Spa Montage are steeped in the beauty and healing power of Baja California Sur.

ON THE SHORES OF SANTA MARIA BAY Blending natural beauty with authentic Mexican culture, Montage Los Cabos is an idyllic sanctuary perched upon the premier beachfront in Cabo. Spanning 39 acres along the gentle azure waters of Santa Maria Bay, the resort features walk-in access to the finest swimming, snorkeling and diving in the region. On the edge of Santa Maria Bay, find your sanctuary in one of 122 expansive guestrooms, suites and casas and 52 Montage Residences.

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