Issue 36
DAILY
SPECIAL GOURMET LUXURY EDITION
WORLD’S BEST
RESTAURANTS LUXURY REDEFINED
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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
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NEWS | STORIES | OPINION | FEATURES | EVENTS
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ARMANI FINE DINING
Located in Burj Khalifa, occupying the floors concourse to 8 and levels 38 and 39, the hotel features 160 luxurious guest rooms and suites, seven innovative restaurants, exclusive retail outlets and a spa.
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THE LEDBURY
In the chef’s own words, Bre Graham’s cuisine at The Ledbury is “based around fabulous British produce where possible, with lots of vegetables and wild English game“.
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MARY GOSTELOW’S 20 GREAT RESTAURANTS
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Here, travelling roughly west to east, are some of the great hotel restaurants MAry Gostelow has eaten in in the last six months.
NIHONRYORI RYUGIN
Japanese cuisine is a symbol of the richness of our country. Tasting Japan's treasured ingredients in their very natural state is the "ultimate feast".
DINNER BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL
Dinner began in the late 90’s with Heston Blumenthal’s fascination with historic gastronomy.
ALSO IN THIS LUXURIOUS ISSUE
NOMA NARISAWA D.O.M AMBER THE TEST KITCHEN LE BERNARDIN
98 108 128 138 148 30
THE CLOVE CLUB GERANIUM NAHM LE CALANDRE TIM RAUE BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS
DAILY Publisher Kevin Rolfe Editor Siddharth Thaker Editor-at-large Mary Gostelow Designers Mike Gibas Mark Askam Editorial Team Anton RenshaweStrack Christopher O’Toole Rebecca Cohen Phil Blizzard Photography Mark Hakansson Ben Roberts Anjjelo San Buenaventura
Advertising Sion Rapson Gina Reynolds Mike Sawicki Business Development Kevin Rolfe Chris Frost Andrea Roca Production team Nadeem George Rasha Akar Abid Ahmed Denis Halilaj Josiah King Juwon Adenusi Katrina Lee-Smith Orenthal Jackson Online George Cooke
World Luxury Daily is published by World Luxury Media Momentum House, Lower Road, London, SE1 8SJ, United Kingdom T: +44 (0) 20 7925 0000 M: +44 (0) 7792965550 E: advertising@worldluxurydaily.com www.worldluxurydaily.com The use of our Website and Digital Magazine are all subject to the following: All rights reserved. No part of www.worldluxurydaily.com may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmied, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission from world luxury daily. Whilst every effort has been made to check the information contained in this issue of world luxury daily magazine, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of world luxury daily publishing. Unless otherwise stated, the copyright of the individual contribution is that of the contributors. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of images. We apologise in advance for any unintentional omissions and would be pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgment in any subsequent publication.
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osTeria francesca There is everyThing To be learned from The people who raise, caTch and grow The food we prepare. Massimo Boura is a leading figure amongst a new generation of Italian chefs. His work both as an innovator and restaurateur confirm him as one of the world’s most creative culinary forces. He has two restaurants situated in Modena, within the culinary-rich Italian region of Emilia-Romagna, the 3 Michelin star Osteria Francescana and an offshoot brasserie Franceschea58. Since Boura opened Osteria Francescana in 1995, the restaurant has been no stranger to critical acclaim. It was awarded its first Michelin star in 2002, a second four years later and, finally, it reached the height of critical acclaim with a third Michelin stars awarded in 2011. Unanimously ranked top in class by L’Espresso, Gambero Rosso and the Touring Club Guide, Osteria Francescana currently rests at 2nd position on The World`s 50 Best Restaurants listing and has been voted the best restaurant in Italy for the past 7 years.
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The restaurant has engaged in a profound exploration of territory and tradition, the expression of which can be found in the absolute concentration of flavours guided by conceptual premise. A piece of work by Gino de Dominicis struck a particular cord with Boura for at Osteria Francescana - tradition is seen from ten kilometres away. Italy’s exceptional ingredients and classic dishes are re-evaluated with the benefit of critical distance, ensuring that the
Italian Kitchen is free to evolve. Boura is dedicated to reconstructing Italy’s cultural heritage - not deconstructing it. This intelligent evolution of Italian traditions can be seen in plates such as “Come to Italy with Me” and “Compression of Pasta and Beans” where the rules have been bent and come full circle, constantly reminding diners of Italy’s rich gastronomic heritage. “Risoo Cacio e Pepe”, for example, is a meditation on tradition created as a direct response to the May 2012 earthquakes in Emilia which damaged nearly 400,000 forms of Parmigiano Reggiano. Guests are able to choose from the à la carte menu or from the restaurant’s two tasting menus: the Tradition in Evolution menu pays tribute to Italian ingredients, traditions and terroir whilst the longer Sensations menu includes seasonal expressions from the experimental kitchen. “Our traditions root us in a place, culture and time, but they must never be stagnan,” says Massimo Boura. “ Traditional food is the result of a successful experiment. We must continue to evolve our palates and our techniques and remain flexible in the kitchen to new ideas, ingredients and concepts. Only then can we project ourselves into the future and allow our own gastronomic evolution to follow.”
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In a former osteria, transformed into a Mecca of contemporary culture, Osteria Francescana’s plates are adorned with references to experimental art, peppered with social, political and historical implications and laced with a healthy sense of humour. Since opening, Osteria Francescana has housed works such as Francesco Vezzoli’s “La Vie en Rose”, Carlo Benvenuto’s “Table and glass” and Mario Sciffano’s “World Map”, all of which have helped to define the restaurant’s unique style with its poetic interpretations. This impressive collection has subsequently been expanded to include works from Boura’s personal collection. Maurizio Caelan’s “Tourists”: three stuffed Venetian pigeons, part of a piece featured in both the 1997and 2011 Biennale of Venice, brings to mind Boura’s irreverent approach to current Italian culture; Ceal Floyer’s minimalist “Paper and Ink” series (created using a box of 20 scholastic coloured markers and water colour paper); Jonathan Borofsky’s “half a sailboat painting” (literally half a painting); and Gavin Turk’s “bin bag” reflect the chef’s playfulness, a theme which features throughout Osteria Francescana’s menu. The latest addition to the collection, which greets diners on arrival, is one of Damien Hirst’s Spin paintings. It pays honour to the dish “Beautiful psychedelic spin-painted veal, not flame grilled”, which was inspired by the series. "The artworks on the walls lend a view of the landscape of our ideas,” says Massimo Boura
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The final days of November 2011 saw Massimo Boura open offshoot brasserie, Franceschea 58, offering informal dining and drinks just outside Modena’s medieval city centre. Franceschea 58 is a collaboration between Massimo Boura and Marta Pulini, creative director of Bibendum
catering and former chef at two of New York's most successful restaurants of the 1990’s, Le Madri and Mad61. With the aim of introducing Modena diners to dishes from other regions, Franceschea58 showcases produce from the whole of Italy. All dishes are priced at 10 euros & 50 cents and are served using sharing plates. A laid-back environment, the table seings and walls are decorated with plates in various sizes and styles gathered from the stock of Richard Ginori, one of Italy's oldest Italian porcelain manufacturers, restaurants, hotels, private collections and out of production Murano glassware 2014 saw the release of Massimo Boura’s first English language book with Phaidon Press, Never Trust a Skinny Italian Chef. This book has subsequently been translated into Italian and Dutch with releases in French and Spanish in 2015. Boundlessly energetic and enthusiastic, Massimo Boura has created an off-shoot EXPO Milan 2015 project – Refeorio Ambrosiano otherwise known as Food for Soul. A contemporary soup kitchen Food for Soul was created in collaboration with the Vatican and Caritas to address the emotive issue of food wastage and hunger in inner cities. Many of Boura’s colleagues from Italy and abroad are joining him during the 5 months of the EXPO Milan to cook for the city’s needy and share innovative recipes for reducing waste in the kitchen. “2015 marks the 20th anniversary of Osteria Francescana. Who would have ever thought the journey would be so full of adventure!”muses Massimo Boura. www.osteriafrancescana.it
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NoMA THE SCANDI GASTRONOMY MOVEMENT THAT HAS TAKEN HOLD ACROSS THE WORLD STARTED AT A RENOVATED WAREHOUSE IN COPENHAGEN IN 2003 WHEN RENé REDzEPI TOOK IT UPON HIMSELF TO REVIVE AND UPDATE NORDIC FOOD USING CONTEMPORARY COOKING METHODS. The Scandi gastronomy movement that has taken hold across the world started at a renovated warehouse in Copenhagen in 2003 when René Redzepi took it upon himself to revive and update Nordic food using contemporary cooking methods. Noma has since gone on to change the way dining rooms operate and put foraging for ingredients firmly in the spotlight. Chefs bring out the dishes themselves to guests in the relaxed and casual dining room that has views over Copenhagen’s quayside. The stripped-back interior matches Redzepi’s unfussy and naturalistic style of cooking. Vegetables and foraged ingredients take centre stage, but don’t be fooled, this isn’t your ordinary restaurant fare. Simplesounding dishes such as apples and lemon thyme, cabbage leaves and white currants, new Danish potato and nele and sliced raw squid and kelp provide explosions of taste and texture, with ingredients shown in a different light to how many will have previously experienced them. Redzepi has successfully taken Noma to London, Tokyo and Sydney, embracing the local cuisines in the process. He plans to close Noma at the end of 2016 and will eventually reopen the restaurant as an urban farm. He has also just opened the more casual 108. hp://noma.dk
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The Three roca broThers are each global leaders in Their respecTive fields – Joan as a chef, Josep as a sommelier and Jordi as a paTisssier– so Their combined creaTiviTy is almosT overwhelming El Celler is a free-style restaurant, commied to the avant-garde, but still faithful to the memory of different generations of the family's ancestors dedicated to feeding people. It was founded by the brothers Joan and Josep Roca at the end of August, 1986, in Girona. Joan, in the kitchen, and Josep, in the dining room. Immediately aer that, in 1987, Encarna Tirado, now married to Josep Roca, joined the project in the dining room. And the youngest brother, Jordi, started in the kitchen of El Celler in 1998. El Celler started out in a small premises, just next to the house of the parents, Josep Roca and Montse Fontané, owners of Can Roca, a barrestaurant opened in Taialà-Germans Sàbat, a popular neighbourhood on the outskirts of Girona. The first premises were small. In 1991 they set their sights on can Sunyer, a country house, a hybrid of modernist and colonial styles built in 1911 by the architect Isidre Bosch i Bataller, standing just a few metres away from the family home. Aer purchasing it they adapted it as a banqueting hall called la Torre de Can Roca. Fieen years later, in November 2007, – the new Celler was relocated to the Tower. The former 170 square metre premises were quadrupled by a new and more comfortable premises: 200 square metres of kitchen, 200 of winery, 200 of dining room and 60 for the hall, plus a welcoming garden.
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El Celler de Can Roca's commitment to cuisine and to the avant-garde, and its link to academia, has led it to defend the dialogue between the countryside and science, a total dialogue. All three brothers studied at the Girona Catering School and believe in pedagogy as the basis for the professionals of the future. In fact, El Celler de Can Roca is the outcome of the evolution of a family that has been engaged in the restaurant trade for many generations, through knowledge handed down from great-great grandparents to great grandparents, from great grandparents to grandparents, grandparents to parents and from parents to children. And with a permanent avant-garde vocation. The father, Josep Roca i Pont, was born in Can Reixach, which still operates as a restaurant, in Sant Martí de Llémena, on November 24, 1933. He was the local bus driver, roasted chickens on a spit and grilled meat, and spent a good many years behind the counter at Can Roca. His mother was Grannie Angeleta, her grandchildren's' muse, who spent "all her life stirring pans and feeding people”. Montserrat Fontané i Serra, their mother, was born on June 8, 1936, in Can Batista de Sant Martí de Llémena. She is the revered driving force and cook, the person who has had the greatest influence on cooking at Can Roca. Montserrat
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Fontané's family may possibly have been in the restaurant business since at least circa 1700, the 18th Century, in Sant Martí de Llémena. Josep Roca and Montserrat Fontané, the cook, were married in 1962 and opened Can Roca in 1967. Joan Roca, the chef, was born on February 11, 1964. Josep Roca, sommelier and maitre, came into the world on March 19, 1966, and Jordi Roca, the pastry cook, followed on May 2, 1978. They are all winners of the National Gastronomy Award and are all honorary doctors of the University of Girona. All the leading restaurant guides and gastronomy critics have acknowledged El Celler's achievements over its first twenty-five years. The first Michelin star was awarded in 1995; the second in 2002. And the third on November 25, 2009. Three suns by the Repsol Guide; 19/29, by 5 a Taula, by La Vanguardia; 9.5, by Gourmetour; 9.75/10, by the Lo Mejor de la Gastronomía and Gourmand guides. In 2009, the English Restaurant Magazine placed El Celler de Can Roca 5th in the World's 50 best restaurants. It reached fourth place in 2010 and finally second in 2011 and 2012. In 2013, the first position. www.cellercanroca.com
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ELEvEN MADISoN PARK We offer a seasonal tasting menu that focuses on local ingredients. a meal With us consists of 7-9 courses and We Welcome you to share any allergies, aversions, or dietary restrictions so that We can tailor the menu to your preferences. Our two balcony-level private dining rooms overlook the Main Dining Room and oer views of Madison Square Park through oor to ceiling windows. The South Private Dining Room accommodates up to 18 seated guests, and the North Private Dining Room accommodates up to 34 seated guests. These rooms can be combined to accommodate up to 50 seated guests.
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For larger parties, the Main Dining Room is available for exclusive use of the restaurant and can accommodate up to 110 guests for seated events. www.elevenmadisonpark.com
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mirazur aT The fooT of The mounTains overlooking The sea, a sTone's Throw from iTaly and The old border posT, The 1930's era roTunda building housing The mirazur enJoys an idyllic seTTing. At the foot of the mountains overlooking the sea, a stone’s throw from Italy and the old border post, the 1930s-era rotunda building housing the Miramar enjoys an idyllic seing.
Down a few steps, the orchard garden full of fragrant herbs and citrus is a precious source of inspiration for Mauro Colagreco & when dreaming up his dishes.
It spreads over three levels on the hillside,surrounded by lush vegetation.The elegant, spacious and light-drenched dining room commands a panoramic view of the sea and the town of Menton through the large windows running all the way around.
creative, free and respectful cuisine
On the lower floor, the bar with a view of the glassed-in kitchen where the brigade is at work extends into a small terrace.
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Through his personal interpretations of ingredients and flavour combinations, Mauro Colagreco has forged a style of his own. He has absorbed his Italian-Argentinian cultural heritage and that of the chefs with whom he trained, and now follows his intuition as he draws on the local culture on both sides of the border.
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Inspired by the sea, the mountains and the fruit and vegetables grown in his own gardens, Mauro invents colourful, pictorial dishes that play with textures and bold contrasts.
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His cuisine is ultra fresh, with lots of herbs, fruit and vegetables showcasing the magnificent ingredients produced by local growers: citrus fruit from the Riviera, saffron from Sospel, olive oil and lemons from Menton, wild mushrooms from the surrounding countryside, produce from the Ventimiglia markets, gamberoni prawns from San Remo, locally caught fish, and so on. Light, honest, respectful of nature, Mauro’s cuisine expresses itself freely. At the Mirazur, nothing is immutable; everything changes with the seasons, available produce, and the inspiration of a great chef. www.mirazur.fr
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indulge in sheer luxury
armani ho every aspecT of The hoTel’s design and service offerings has been designed and planned by giorgio armani himself, from The bespoke furnishings To resTauranT menus and in-room ameniTies.
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Armani Hotel Dubai, the first hotel designed by Giorgio Armani, in collaboration with leading property developer Emaar Properties PJSC, in Burj Khalifa, is offering visitors to Dubai an unprecedented choice for luxurious indulgence in elegant seings. A spokesperson for Emaar Hotels & Resorts, said: “Armani Hotel Dubai has created a new benchmark in luxury hospitality, pushing the accepted norms and frontiers in the industry. The collaboration with Giorgio Armani brings a new level of aesthetics to the hotel. Additionally, the concept of Lifestyle Managers, who meet every need of the guests, introduced for the first time in Armani Hotel Dubai, has redefined service standards.” Emaar Hotels & Resorts spokesperson added: “The ‘Stay with Armani’ philosophy has been overwhelmingly well received by guests, as it
ensures they benefit from a ‘home-away-fromhome’ experience that goes well beyond visual aesthetics. The hotel also enjoys several other special features, including the location in Burj Khalifa, which means it possesses unparalleled views of Dubai and beyond.” Located in Burj Khalifa, occupying the floors concourse to 8 and levels 38 and 39, the hotel features 160 luxurious guest rooms and suites, seven innovative restaurants, exclusive retail outlets and a spa. Practicality and elegance, the cornerstones of Armani’s signature style, combine with precious materials and sophisticated finishes to create a highly personalised space. The choice of restaurants, all hugely popular with guests and walk-in diners, includes a selection of world cuisines ranging from Japanese and Indian to Mediterranean and authentic Italian fine dining.
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Also popular among guests are the three exclusive retail outlets: Armani/Galleria, the first and only place in Dubai where the Giorgio Armani/Privé collection is showcased; Armani/Dolci, a luxurious confectionary store offering a selection of chocolates, and more; and Armani/Fiori, a floral boutique offering exquisite fresh flower arrangements and exclusively designed vases by Giorgio Armani. Based on the philosophy that travel is as much an emotional journey as a physical one, Armani Hotel Dubai assigns each hotel guest a personal Lifestyle Manager who will serve as a personal contact and host from the moment they make a reservation to the time they check out and even beyond. As part of Armani Hotel Dubai’s continuous commitment to originate value-added features, the hotel introduced Armani/SPA, offering fully
tailored sensory experiences that suit individual needs. Each unique space in the Armani/SPA provides a context for personalized treatments, personal fitness and sequential thermal bathing, as well as for private and social relaxation. Armani Hotel Dubai is located in the heart of Downtown Dubai, described as “The Centre of Now”, and is within walking distance of The Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping and entertainment destination.
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armani fin Armani Mediterraneo Contemporary casual styles define Armani/ Mediterraneo, from breakfast through to latenight dining. Take a culinary journey accross the region for lunch or dinner and savour a truly authentic selection of regional specialities. hp://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_mediterraneo_en.html
Armani Lounge The perfect place to meet friends, discuss business or just watch the world go by while enjoying innovative interpretations of international cuisines. hp://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_lounge_en.html
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Armani Ristorante The essence of Italy is brought to life at Armani/ Ristorante where a natural passion for the finest ingredients, exquisite flavour combinations and contemporary presentation come together in an exclusive environment that excites the palate and leaves lovers of gourmet dining wanting more. hp://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_ristorante_en.html
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armani fine dining Armani Amal Fresh and innovative regional Indian cuisine is on the menu at Armani/ Amal, along with an exciting beverage list and selected teas. hî…&#x;p://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_amal_en.html
Armani Deli A gourmands paradise, pick up something to go from the fresh food display, relish the simple lunch time delights of a plate of homemade pasta or join friends for our popular Friday brunch. hî…&#x;p://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_deli_en.html
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Armani Hashi The freshest fish is flown in daily from around the world and complimented by a selection of speciality beverages. hp://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_ar mani_hashi_en.html
Armani Prive This VIP lounge hosts the most exciting nights in Dubai. Meet up with old friends and make new ones, then dance into the early hours to the vibrant beats of the resident DJ. hp://dubai.armanihotels.com/dine/dine_armani_prive_en.html
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CENTRAL RESTAURANTE LIMA VIRGILIO CHOOSES TO APPROACH THE GREAT DIVERSITY OF OUR INGREDIENTS SIMILAR TO THAT USED BY THE PEOPLES OF THE ANDES IN PREHISPANIC TIMES WAY: THROUGH THE VERTICAL CONTROL OF ECOLOGICAL FLOORS. Virgilio chooses to approach the diversity of our ingredients in a manner similar to that used by the peoples of the Andes in pre-Hispanic times: through vertical ecological monitoring. According to this alternative way of understanding the geography, land is perceived not as a horizontal plane but rather vertically, so that it takes advantage of all that the flora and fauna are able to deliver
according to the particularities of each ecological system. As a result of the dramatic fluctuations in the Andean terrain in a relatively small radius of 100 kilometers (for many farmers this is not a difficult hike), there is direct access to the country’s products from various altitudes ranging from the coast to the Amazon.
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In Central we celebrate the biodiversity of Peru. Fresh produce and an inexhaustible curiosity to discover and integrate new ingredients into the menu bring Peruvian cuisine to the forefront in the heart of the traditional district of Miraflores in Lima. At Central we bole water onsite, filtered, ozonated and purified using reverse osmosis. The reverse osmosis process traps microparticles, bacteria and heavy metals producing the purest water. Mater is an initiative of exploration and discovery, in which a multidisciplinary team travels throughout Peru in search of new products and
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new stories of people. A sample of what makes Peru a diverse country. Herbs and spices that accompany our food are always at hand. The idea of a garden in the city, well maintained, allows us to keep in constant contact with nature. One way to bring the countryside to Central and experiment directly with new product varieties. Motivated by an insatiable curiosity and interest in conveying the complexity of their land, Virgilio is passionate about traveling and investigating ingredients that can bring undocumented and yet even more wealth to the local cuisine.
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To do so, through a number of areas: ocean, lower Andes, extreme altitude, and high and low jungles. He also has an interdisciplinary team that complements each new "discovery" in a necessary context that seeks to transcend the strictly culinary and penetrate nutritional, biological, anthropological aspects.
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central experience The experience that we promise to offer you is the exploration of the diverse Peruvian territory: ingredients, colors, stories and scenarios. To transport ourselves together to different elevations and connect to our environment in a special way. We can begin here by scheduling your visit. Please take a few minutes of your time to complete the requested information so that we can assure the tiniest details will be aended to. www.centralrestaurante.com.pe/en/
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narisawa
Through These signaTure narisawa dishes, naTural ingredienTs such as wood and soil can be eaTen; Through This experience, The consumer gains a new relaTionship wiTh The naTural world, and wiTh environmenTal concerns. Japanese Satoyama and wisdom of the ancestors from chef Yoshihiro Narisawa
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Yoshihiro Narisawa le home at age 19 and spent eight years cuing his teeth in some of Europe’s most venerated kitchens, including those of Joël Robuchon and Paul Bocuse. In 1996, he returned home to Japan and opened La Napoule in Kanagawa Prefecture. Seven years later in 2003, he moved to his current venue in Tokyo’s non-
touristy district of Minami Aoyama and formed Les Créations de Narisawa. When the restaurant celebrated its eighth anniversary, it was renamed Narisawa. Narisawa has coined his own style of cuisine, Innovative Satoyama. Since Japanese cities are surrounded by forest and ocean, its people live hand to hand with nature, taking only the most necessary resources for daily life from the earth.
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Almost all ingredients used at Narisawa are Japanese and the chef visits all the producers and liaises directly with them. The menu comprises sustainable ingredients that are faithful to the environment and the seasons, so a dinner at Narisawa is a journey in Japanese seasonality and culture.
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QUINToNIL AT QUINTONIL, IN MEXICO CITY'S HIGH- END POLANCO DISCTRICT, A GASTRONOMIC PROPOSAL THAT CLEARLY EXPRESS THE FLAVORS AND FORMS OF MODERN MEXICAN COOKING EMERGES FROM A PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN YOUNG MEXICAN CHEF JORGE VALLEJO.
Located in Mexico City’s Polanco district—where the city’s most interesting gastronomic proposals seem to congre- gate—Quintonil’s culinary o ering asserts modern Mexican cooking’s true avors and forms. At the helm, diners nd Jorge Vallejo—a young Mexican chef with a series of career highlights and recognitions behind him— alongside Alejan- dra Flores—a long-time restaurants-industry veteran. Be- sides its contemporary take on Mexican cooking, Quintonil also advocates using products from Mexico’s small agricul- tural producers to create cuisine that fashions a new per- spective on home-style tastes. “Come in a customer, leave a friend” is the philosophy that encapsulates the restaurant’s ultimate goal.
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Yet Quintonil would not have taken such a distinguished place in Mexico City’s restaurant scene so quickly were it not for Jorge and Alejandra’s one-of-a-kind collaboration. In recent years, Chef Jorge Vallejo’s professional star has risen rapidly, and his name has been popping up ever more frequently in specialty media. Vallejo trained in Culinary Arts and Administration at the Centro Culinario de México, A.C. Ambrosía, and then went ontoprofessionalpracticawithChef SantiSantamaríaat Madrid’s Santceloni (a Michelin two-star venue).
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world luxury | DAILY | Issue 36 | Vallejo joined Princess Cruises in November 2004, where he worked as seafood chef de partie, main dining room galley chief, chef de partie for roasts, and soup-station chef de partie aboard the Coral Princess, Crown Princess and Star Princess as they sailed the Caribbean, the Atlantic and the Baltic as well as on passages to Alaska, South America and the Antarctic. Upon his return to Mexico in 2007, he joined the restau- rant team at Pujol as the head of the Enrique Olvera catering division. In October of the same year, he was promoted to Executive Chef at Mexico City’s renowned Hotel Condesa dF, where he devised menus, oversaw cost-control for the hotel’s various food and beverage outlets, and also super- vised food-quality-related maers. He was named Grupo Habita Corporate Chef in July 2009 and managed restaurants at the Condesa dF, Habita and Distrito Capital Hotels. The following year, in May 2010, Vallejo returned to Grupo Enrique Olvera to take charge of Taller Enrique Olvera, Catering Enrique Olvera and the ENO gourmet shop, as well as oversight of certain Grupo Habita hotels and as a direct support to Chef Enrique Olvera for new-project assessment. September 2010 brought an invitation to take on Execu- tive Chef duties at the Hotel St. Regis Mexico City, where he directed Restaurante Diana until October 2011 as well as the King Cole Bar, Terraza and the hotel’s private dining and banquets service. His work at Diana received rave reviews in a multitude of publications in Mexico and abroad, such as Gula, Chilango, El Universal and Luxury Travel Magazine, among others. Aer a brief stint in Copenhagen, at René Redzepi’s Noma (voted the world’s best restaurant in 2011 and 2012), Vallejo took a new path in 2012 alongside his wife, Alejandra Flores: Mexico City’s Quintonil. Quintonil centers around the study and expression of Mexico’s traditional herb varieties, manifest in the restaurant’s signature salsas, dishes and presentations. Meat features on the menu, but ours is a time that stresses the value of fruits and vegetables as a source of health, wellbeing and extraordinary avor. Each ingredient that Quintonil serves and prepares is rigorously selected with an active awareness of its origins and the way it was grown and procured, in order to meet strict quality standards as well as standards related to sustainability and responsibility with regard to local communities, producers and suppliers.
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menu The Quintonil menu is designed to strike a balance between each recipe’s nutritional value and avor harmonies. Quintonil’s is an expressive kitchen whose objective is a healthy experience that celebrates and transmits avor via a deep respect for each ingredient. www.quintonil.com/en/
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sTeire enJoy modern ausTrian cuisine aT The highesT level. The qualiTy lies in The composiTion of besT producTs while preserving iTs originaliTy.
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Heinz Reitbauer has a style all of his own characterised not only by creativity but also by his regional references. In the tastefully elegant restaurant, the charming Birgit Reitbauer supervises an excellent service and lavishes every aention on her guests. Wonderful terrace with a view over the Stadtpark.
Reitbauer’s signature says everything you need to know about his outlook, being equal parts culinary theatre, precise technique and obvious reverence of local ingredients. The freshwater mountain fish, char, is cooked at the table in hot beeswax before being returned on a plate with yellow carrot, pollen and sour cream.
It may, on paper, sound fairly traditional – family owned for generations, with a bias towards Austria’s rural Styrian region – but under the guidance of chef Heinz Reitbauer, Steirereck has become a byword for cuing-edge cooking rooted in the Austrian landscape.
While the tasting menu is, undoubtedly, the best way to engage with Reitbauer’s vision, it says everything about his relaxed style that you’ll find a Wiener Schnitzel on the menu – one of the things that makes Steirereck so enduringly popular with the lunch crowds.
Housed in a monolithic glass cube in Vienna’s Stadtpark, Steirereck’s design may be supermodern but the interior speaks a recognisable language of international fine dining. It’s a bright, tranquil vision of wood, concrete and starched white table linen.
www.steirereck.at/en/
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ASADoR ETXEBARRI
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MARGINALIzED FROM THE WORLD AND VARIOUS TYPES OF WOOD, THE FIRE FOLLOWING THE ANCIENT TECHNIQUES, IN WHICH THE COOKING IS TRADITIONAL, AND THE EMBERS BY MAGIC, OFFERS US MANY POSSIBILITIES, AS LONG AS THE PRODUCT WHILE MAINTAINING ITS OWN IDENTITY.
Nestled deep in the Atxondo valley, at the foothills of the magical Mt. Anboto, we find Etxebarri. Far from the noise, the restaurant preserves ancient techniques of grill cooking using carefully selected firewood from different trees to work in harmony with the locally cultivated, natural produce, to offer endless possibilities of truly wonderful dishes. Earth, ocean or fire. The decision is made each day, based upon which seasonal products are most freshly available. The result is a home-grown menu, beating in time with nature’s rhythm, humbly served and carefully and consistently put together with respect and a delicate touch. hp://asadoretxebarri.com/en/
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maido The birTh of maido is The resulT of micha’s passion for nikkei food. iT is a fervenT and unique love, peru always being his source of inspiraTion.
The landscapes, the products and the creativity of the Peruvian people are the ingredients that play in his mind and inspire his work. Here the cook is not the protagonist, but it is the top quality ingredients that promise the artist the creation of the unique work of art. It looks for customers to live a genuine Nikkei experience.
This wonderful cuisine is the reflection of the Japanese influence on the Peruvian gastronomy. The ingredients of both cultures complement each other as if they had been born to be one. It is an honest cuisine with unique textures and flavors. “In Japan there are many ways to say “welcome”, but none grabs that meaning as “Maido” does. This word gives the name to the restaurant, but it also resumes the feeling of each customer to feel at home.”
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nikkei experience - 15 courses Life is movement. Nothing is static or absolute. No one is. We are in a state of constant flux, just like the Earth, the tides, bacteria, light, the blood in our bodies, colors, seeds. Like family trees, cuisines are constantly being redefined, their identities enriched by an intense intercultural exchange which has formed the basis of all civilization ever since humans shared their first sounds, products, ideas, and customs. Fusion cuisine is just that: cooking, an inclusive word that perfectly encompasses it all. The fireplace is where bloodlines merge, where people come to sing, individual and group histories are forged, life gestates. The fireplace is where dialogue is fostered, the elements meet, opposites aract.
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Thus was born Peruvian Nikkei cuisine: from a complex history called Peru; and another, equally complex, far-off and foreign history called Japan that merged to live in harmony and create the third reality: Nikkei Cuisine. mitsuharu tsumura He is a Peruvian Nikkei, from Lima, and as from his first memories, he always remembers cuisine as a part of his life. His grandmother Angelica was an excellent cook. Even though he did not have the chance to know her, he apparently inherited her passion for a good table, the creation of tasty dishes and the pleasure of cooking for many people. www.maido.pe/en/
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The ledbury in The chef’s own words, his cuisine is “based around fabulous briTish produce where possible, wiTh loTs of vegeTables and wild english game“. one of his mosT iconic dishes is flame-grilled mackerel wiTh smoked eel, celTic musTard and shiso
Bre Graham began his cooking career in Newcastle, Australia, aged 15, working in a simple fish restaurant. He then moved to Sydney where, during a 3 year stint under Liam Tomlin at the highly acclaimed Banc restaurant, he won the Josephine Pignolet Award.
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This granted him a trip to the UK where he secured a job at The Square, working for chef Philip Howard. Further awards followed, including the “Young Chef of the Year” in 2002.
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The restaurant has gained many accolades includingthe much coveted second Michelin Star. Originally from Australia, Bre Graham started cooking in his Newcastle (NSW) hometown at the age of 15. His early career highlight was a subsequent three year-stint with Liam Tomlin in Banc, Sydney, where he bagged the Josephine Pignolet Award, granting him a trip to the UK. Graham opened The Ledbury in central London when he was just 25.
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In the chef’s own words, his cuisine is “based around fabulous British produce where possible, with lots of vegetables and wild English game“. One of his most iconic dishes is flame-grilled mackerel with smoked eel, celtic mustard and shiso.
Graham enjoys hunting and gardening and goes for regular walks around Richmond Park in southwest London, which is known for its wild deer. Graham will open a deer park (with a collection of rare white red deer that will form part of the herd) in 2017. Recently, he has also started using a probiotic technique to produce compost made from 100% kitchen waste. These are given out to customers in 5kg bags to take home for their indoor planting or gardening needs. www.theledbury.com
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D.o.M. BRAzILIAN CUISINE IS A FEASIBLE DREAM. “Brazilian gastronomy is a feasible dream.” This statement made by chef Alex Atala summarizes the trajectory of the D.O.M. Restaurant. Created at a time when lile was known about Brazil’s flavours, the D.O.M. was born like a project which is now a reality. A genuine reality that reverberates around the world, diffusing ingredients like açaí, jambu, tucupi. Not by immodesty… by mission.
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Currently elected the 9th best restaurant in the world by S. Pellegrino “World´s 50 Best Restaurants”, D.O.M. is a unique restaurant without claiming to be eloquent. On the contraty, its message is syntactic and poignant: to step out the comfort zone and propose a new gastronomic experience, rescuing the most authentic flavours of Brazilian cuisine according to a contemporary gaze.
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atmosphere With a discreet address at Barão de Capanema Street in the neighbourhood of Jardins, São Paulo, D.O.M. presents a decor based on the harmonious balance between classic and modern, familiar and wild. The limited number of customers served daily and its private events area state the commitment to offer exclusivity and superlative comfort. traJectory At first, the exotic shone. A young chef, a former punk and DJ, using domestic ingredients? "We lack someone who is proud of our cuisine like VillaLobos was proud of our music", he used to say at the beginning of his new journey. It took a few years for the specialized media to realize that something serious was happening there. Aer a successful season being in charge of the restaurant Namesa, at the end of 1999 chef Alex Atala would mark, and at the same time revolutionize, the history of gastronomy in the country by means of an audacious project: the creation of a contemporary restaurant of authorial cuisine that would rescue the flavours of Brazilian cuisine and unveil new ingredients not much explored at the time as açaí, pupunha and cupuaçu. So the curious aspects gave place to the acknowledgment of what is real: a mature chef, a researcher, and a champion of Brazilian cuisine devoted to its noblest, more contemporary, and ethereal production. The result: D.O.M. Restaurant. An award-winning and critically acclaimed restaurant that is constantly exciting lovers of haute cuisine with its revelations about the cuisine and ingredients from Brazil.
recognition The constant statement of its philosophy over the years, made D.O.M. stop being a concept to be seen concretely, winning the approval of the public and critics. The success was translated into awards and international recognition of both, the place and its chef Alex Atala. In 2006 the restaurant started to be part of the notable list ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ published by the renowned British magazine Restaurant. In 2010, it occupied the 18th position in the list. In 2011, another great leap: it was considered the 7th best one. And in the 2012 edition, it was granted the 4th position. These last three awards also ensured D.O.M. the award for Best Restaurant in South America by the same publication. Currently, it is necessary to make a reservation months in advance to sample the dishes at D.O.M. profile of the chef Firmly linked to his roots and looking towards the future, Alex Atala is, above all, passionate about Brazil, nature, gastronomy, and life. Driven by challenges and a great sense of indignation, Atala manages, with extreme delicacy and technique, to turn his creative energy into unforgeable experiences for those who have the opportunity to prove his experiments. His aim is to explore all the gastronomic possibilities of domestic ingredients, combining classical basis with current techniques. However, with boldness and vision, Atala surpasses the boundaries of cuisine and acts as a responsible citizen, valuing the small producer, encouraging young professionals, and supporting the third sector. hp://domrestaurante.com.br
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alinea sTephen began working for alinea in adminisTraTion, buT quickly Took over as proJecT manager for The building and developmenT of nexT and The aviary. The culmination of years of dreaming and imagination, Alinea was a minimalist modern vision that put the focal point on the cuisine and dining as an experience. The new design is an intentional juxtaposition of classical architectural references and modern touchstones. It seeks to be timeless and sophisticated while giving no direct hints to a specific time or place. We also took the opportunity to improve the mechanicals, modernize the lighting systems, and install a fivezone sound system. We’ve also come to understand that the best moments of creativity come when we are uncomfortable and uncertain. So we are starting with a blank slate on the cuisine as well – and adding a few completely new experiences and choices for patrons. Some people are calling this iteration Alinea 2.0 or the Alinea Reboot. We just call it Alinea. Because all along Alinea will offer three distinct experiences:
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the Kitchen table Our new kitchen table offers the most intimate, immersive and cuing edge experience at Alinea. Completely private, except for the chefs and servers, the AlineaKT is our highest dining expression. $385 per person plus service and tax. Wine and beverage service available at the time of dining. Parties of 6 only. the gallery menu The first floor gallery provides seating for 16 only. A multi-sensory 16-to-18 course menu combines fine dining with experimental moments. With two seatings per night we ask that you arrive on time or the experience may begin without you. $285 to $345 per person, depending on day of week. Wine and non-alcoholic pairings available. Parties of 2 or 4 only please. the salon menu Our three second floor salons offer a 10-12 course tasting menu. A more approachable experience, this menu is no less innovative or satiating for mind and body. $175 to $225 per person. Wine and non-alcoholic pairings available. Parties of 2 to 6 available. www.alinearestaurant.com
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azurmen far from The sTraighTforward siT-down resTauranT experience, aT azurmendi The Journey sTarTs in The roofTop vegeTable garden where guesTs inspecT The home-grown produce before conTinuing To an indoor greenhouse for a selecTion of ‘snacks’. | 56 |
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Azurmendi Gourmet is the best example of signature cuisine in Biscay and the only restaurant in the province with three Michelin stars. It has been built into a hillside surrounded by autochthonous vineyards. Eneko´s house, and he calls the restaurant, was conceived and built prioritizing sustainability, a foundation of his philosophy. Azurmendi is possibly one of the most unique sustainable buildings of the modern architecture. It reflects the canons of the Basque identity and
integrates photovoltaic solar panels and a geothermic system to produce electricity, harvests rainwater to cover a number of operations, recycles waste, etc. A charging station is available for electric cars. For all these reasons Azurmendi was granted the Sustainable Restaurant Award 2014. Azurmendi Gourmet is a restaurant where emotions multiply, where each corner, detail and service reflects the personality and philosophy of Eneko Atxa.
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eneKo atXa — Who is he? Originally from the Basque Country, one of the areas with the most culinary culture, Eneko Atxa, chef at the Azurmendi Restaurant, is a solid reference in international cuisine. He has managed to make his restaurant, located in the beautiful town of Larrabetzu, part of living history in Biscay, becoming the first to be awarded 3 Michelin stars between 2007 and 2012, respectively. Eneko Atxa, chef at the Azurmendi Restaurant and owner of 3 Michelin stars, is a solid reference in international cuisine. He has a keen mind that cannot stop creating and skilled hands with a deep understanding that work with speed, precision and care. Such is the magic of Eneko Atxa at the Azurmendi Restaurant, and therein lies the secret of his international recognition.
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Eneko’s passion is born from the deepest, most intimate parts of his being and even though he could not have imagined it, the admiration he felt for home-cooked food throughout his childhood would mark his path forever. Let your five senses fall in love with his skill. philosophy Eneko Atxa´s philosophy could be summarized in the concept “harmony”. His creations integrate the territory and its resources, the ancestral cultural roots, the products of traditional Basque recipe book, the cooperation with the immediate surroundings, technical tools available to him, all in an aempt to create pleasure, improve, generate added value for the activity and the sector, share wealth and knowledge; in conclusion, grow, in broad sense in a constant and sustainable manner.
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As a result, Eneko Atxa´s cuisine is intense, deep rooted in the local identity, where strengths interact in a balance manner, to make the gastronomic experience a tribute to the senses of each client approaching his “house Azurmendi”. Eneko Atxa: ‘The differentiating value of Azurmendi comes marked by a territory, a way of understanding and transmiing values that everyone has and that have been picked up at home’. www.azurmendi.biz/
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PIAZZA WE LIVE IN A WORLD WHERE TIME FOR YOURSELF IS OFTEN LIMITED AND THUS VERY SPECIAL. FOR THIS REASON, WE WANT TO CREATE FOR OUR GUESTS EXACTLY THE EXPERIENCE THEY WANT TO HAVE IN PIAzzA DUOMO. We live in a world where time for yourself is oen limited and thus very special. For this reason, we want to create for our guests exactly the experience they want to have in Piazza Duomo. We create a personalised service for each person, step by step, respecting tastes and expectations: not one restaurant with 11 tables, but 11 lile different restaurants.
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It is not enough to slavishly follow the classic rules of service, those of the great restaurants in Europe decades ago, to ensure perfection.
It is not enough that the glass is filled to the precise level, or that the tablecloth is without crumbs. Instead, what is needed is to create the atmosphere for each guest that will allow them to enjoy Piazza Duomo the the fullest. Our role is to act as a bridge between Enrico’s cooking and our customers, giving voice to the silent dialogue between the guest and the kitchen. Our service reflects the style of the chef: sober, on tiptoes, without excess.
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DUoMo It has been for almost 80 years now that the Cereo family has been in search of perfection. First came the wine: 160 hectares of vineyards that include some of the greatest crus of Langa, the love for the beautiful countryside that sees more than a million boles produced annually.
Finally, with the same love for the Langhe and continuous drive to find the best, came the decision to create a great restaurant in Alba. Having purchased the magnificent building that overlooks the Piazza del Duomo, he was le to find a chef to head such an ambitious project.
Then the contemporary architecture, supporting the arts and artists.
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In harmony with the passion for contemporary art that is found in all projects of the Cereo family, along the "pink room" of Piazza Duomo, stands the fresco of Neapolitan artist Francesco Clemente: a giant grape leaf, homage to commissioning family, embracing a globe with its five continents, while the grape vine branches out in a series of metaphorical images along the four walls of the room with so colors inspired by the Langa landscape.
enrico crippa We could say, and we would be right, that there is nothing easier for a chef than to cook in the Langhe. This corner of Piedmont is renowned worldwide for the variety and quality of its excellent products: Fassona meat, Tonda Gentile hazelnuts, chestnuts, mushrooms, white truffle of Alba, capon (cockerel meat), rabbit, buer from fresh cream, potatoes from the Alta Langa, the cardoon from Nizza Monferrato, Jerusalem artichokes, white turnips... But we could also say, and again we would be right, that there is nothing more difficult for a chef than to cook in the Langhe. These wonderful ingredients are the same as what every family has had at its disposal for as long as we can remember, and in fact you eat well everywhere here: in homes, in traoria, in restaurants.
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then individual personality comes into play
For me, there were three things to do: make the most of what is around me, look behind the traditions, and present my take on the traditional recipes.
The personal journey to creating my contemporary cuisine, both light and beautiful to the eye. I am Italian but I have worked in France and then in Japan: each of these elements is clearly visible in my work. Finally, it is a maer of what I want to do, or even beer, what I need to do.
Here in Piazza Duomo we work with local products, in direct contact with our trusted suppliers: most of what we use in the kitchen comes from a radius of 50 kilometers. The local products are what guide my hand: Langa beef, for example, being lean and not marbled, is perfect for hand-cut carne cruda (raw meat). These are the same principles that have always inspired the work of a great traoria.
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Even if I am driven by what is offered from my vegetable garden and this region, there is a moment where my ideas and personality emerge: if these were missing, I would be unable to transmit the energy that I generate when I cook for my guests. www.piazzaduomoalba.it/en/
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arpège one of The chef’s collages called ‘green curry aubergine’ served as inspiraTion for a sTain glass window ThaT welcomes guesTs and reigns by iTs superb inTense colors over This Temple of vegeTable cuisine. | 64 |
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In 1986, Alain Passard opened his restaurant Arpege, previously run by his own master Alain Senderens under the name Archestrate. He named it so to pay tribute to music, his second passion and decorated the restaurant in an Art Deco style. Alain Passard chose Lalique Cristal in pear tree waves to the rhythm of Bacchanalia for the walls of the restaurant. The smooth leather chairs seem to blend in with the movement.
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One of the Chef’s collages called “ Green curry Aubergine” served as inspiration for a stain glass window that welcomes guests and reigns by its superb intense colors over this temple of Vegetable cuisine. In 1996, he obtained a third Michelin star and this year in 2016 he shall be celebrating the 30th anniversary of his restaurant!
The Windows are glass waves made by Bernard Pictet that contrast with the transparency of a venetian glaze and seem to play with daylight.
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the earth
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Sandy soil and an apiary in the Sarthe region, clay soil in the Eure region: we care about preserving the environment.
Six gardeners work at the vegetable garden in Fille sur Sarthe. Three people look aer the vegetable garden in Bois- Giroult. The latest one, the garden of Porteaux, located opposite the Mont St Michel bay, has it’s own orchard. For the wellbeing of the gardens as well as the earth, there are two donkeys, two foals, as well as cows, chickens, and a goat.
Draught animal power, no pesticides, no chemical fertilizer, watering holes for batrachians, stone houses for the weasels, hedgehogs and reptiles, perches for raptors, hedges, embankments and trees for the birds ; all of this wildlife is welcome in our gardens, this way we avoid any treatment.
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actions I grow my own vegetables to be able to tell a story from the grain to the plate…and to be able to combine the chef’s touch with that of the gardener, two passionate professions! Through these gardens, I have trusted nature with my creativity; it is nature that dictates my actions. The most beautiful cookery book was wrien by nature itself!
The Arrière-Cuisine of the Arpège restaurant is where Alain Passard exposes his creations. Located just a few meters from his restaurant Arpège, it shows another side of the Chef’s personality in which his love of the beauty of actions expresses itself beyond fine dining. www.alain-passard.com/en/
arrière-cuisine In French, Arrière-cuisine refers to the small room located behind a kitchen. It is sometimes called a back office.
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ARZAK
ARzAK’S EXTENSIVE OFFERING INCLUDES MULTIPLE TASTING MENUS AND AN à LA CARTE, WITH SPECIALTIES SUCH AS THE RED SPACE EGG WITH A SKIN OF RED PEPPERS, PIG TROTTERS AND MUSHROOMS, AND SEABASS SERVED ON TOP OF A TABLET COMPUTER WITH MOVING IMAGES OF THE SEA.
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This famous restaurant occupies a large house over a century in age, in which the bar and two contemporary dining rooms come as a pleasant surprise. Guests can savour superb, innovative cuisine from the renowned father and daughter team. There is also an experimental workshop and a hugely impressive wine cellar. The restaurant situated at the top of a hill in San Sebastian has been in the Arzak family for generations, but it was charismatic chef Juan Mari who revived the menu to make it what it is today. Now 74 years old, Juan Mari still oversees the kitchen while his talented daughter Elena runs daily operations. The restaurant has several different dining rooms, including a light-filled downstairs room which is formal yet relaxed. New diners and returning regulars receive the warmest welcome as Juan Mari roams the room to socialise with all his guests. Arzak’s extensive offering includes multiple tasting menus and an à la carte, with specialties such as the Red Space Egg with a skin of red peppers, pig troers and mushrooms, and seabass served on top of a tablet computer with moving images of the sea.
A special feature of many of the dishes is the crunchy element – dishes such as Big Chocolate Truffle with candyfloss, carob, cacao and chocolate have a range of textures, including the signature crunch. Arzak boasts an enormous wine cellar with over 100,000 boles. www.arzak.info
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With a stunning dining room as its backdrop, Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus’ contemporary interpretation of French cuisine has earned numerous awards, including two Michelin stars, and No. 20 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2016, sponsored by S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. Using only the finest ingredients, Chef Ekkebus uses his classical training and creativity to invent dishes to excite and enthuse even the most jaded palate. Blending cuing-edge style with inventive lighting, the restaurant’s dramatic design provides the perfect seing for Amber’s award-winning cuisine. With a breathtaking bronze chandelier as its centrepiece, the décor uses warm natural hues to create an elegant ambience that allows the masterful menu to be the focus of what is an incredible dining experience. Internationally acclaimed as one of the world’s best restaurants and with two Michelin stars, Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong has fiercely guarded its status under the sole culinary directorship of Dutch chef Richard Ekkebus. Richard Ekkebus was positively beaming when I met him, albeit rather inwardly. As a two-Michelin-starred chef with a reserved ego, it took my familiarity with him, acquired from previous meetings over seven years, to sense it. Our interview, aer all, took place just four days aer chef Ekkebus had returned to Hong Kong, having aended The World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards in the UK, in which Amber at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong had made the list for the second year running – and is one of the few restaurants in Asia to ever appear on it. This, in Hong Kong, a territory with numerous well respected establishments that pepper the pages of locally, regionally and internationally produced food guides and websites. Organised by UK-based Restaurant magazine, the award is a noted international listing of top-notch dining destinations, judged by a global network of food media and industry professionals. Yet, true to form, the down-to-earth Dutchman says that the most important thing was that Amber had remained listed. ‘This proves it wasn’t a one-off lucky hit,’ he says, ‘and now we need to make sure we continue to stay on the list.’
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Ekkebus is no stranger to accolades at Amber, having presided over the restaurant since the hotel opened in 2005. When the Michelin Guide for Hong Kong and Macau was launched in 2009, Amber was awarded the two stars that it has retained to this day, and, in 2011, Ekkebus won TimeOut Hong Kong magazine’s Food and Drink Awards: Chef of the Year gong. So, how much do such tributes mean to him? ‘I always feel these are the cherry on the cake,’ he said, ‘but you don’t do this work for the awards. The chef may be mentioned, but the drive comes from within myself to see my team grow and do beer, and we have had tremendous support from Mandarin Oriental to encourage us to grow. It’s a costly operation to maintain this kind of restaurant, without only focusing on the boom line.’ And there lies a hint at the labour-intensive preparation and presentation of the extraordinary take on modern French cuisine served twice daily at Amber by Ekkebus and his 18-strong kitchen staff. As well as his dedicated team, according to the chef, the quality of ingredients is of paramount importance. That, of course, means cooking with the best of what is available, mostly from France, Japan and Australia, although some fine organic vegetables are now more plentifully grown in Hong Kong. The menu is led by seasonal traditions in Europe, and from there, Ekkebus gives it a modern interpretation, such as with a trio of amuse-bouches, presenting diners with bite-sized indications of the texture and colour play that is to follow. Some of the signature dishes, meanwhile, use produce that can be found year-round. Foie gras ‘lollipops’, for instance, have always been on the menu – a ball of house terrine coated in a layer of sweetened beetroot and raspberry jelly, presented Chupa Chupsstyle on a white stick. During multi-course meals they sometimes appear between two dishes. Another perennial favourite is the starter of Hokkaido sea urchin in a lobster jelly, with cauliflower, caviar and crispy seaweed waffles – the laer counterbalancing the richness of the seafood. ‘People also always talk about our poulard cooked with truffle, or our steaks and our soufflés,’ adds Ekkebus.
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amber sunlighT illuminaTes The eponymous hues aT lunchTime while evenings feel as parisian as The resTauranT’s Two michelin sTars.
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Speaking of the house soufflé, any diner who tries one will notice how pleasantly and unusually moist it is. That was my experience of the chocolate version – served with a dark cacao sorbet, the creamy soufflé is light and airy. Imposing Valrhona Abinao 85 per cent chocolate is used in both parts of the dish, and it is obvious that Ekkebus has put a lot of research into obtaining this consistency. A lile reticent to give away his culinary innovation, he eventually relents. ‘We don’t use the traditional technique, which is a heavy pastry cream with flour,’ he explains. ‘We use a totally different vehicle with a fresh cheese base.’ Kitchen experimentation has always been associated with Amber. In the restaurant’s first two years, recipes oen brought Asian, classical French and continental European flavours together. And, for a period, the mostly Western fine dining cuisine was paired not only with wine suggestions, but also with Chinese tea options, working closely with a local purveyor of high quality tea on a special degustation menu. In the past five years, however, from this continental menu with Asian influences, Ekkebus has consciously returned to more classically inspired and recognised French food. ‘We are more French today than in the beginning,’ he says. ‘At first we were a European restaurant and I liked the liberty and spectrum that gave us, but we decided it was more important for us to refocus, so the diner would know what to expect. I am also French-trained, so it made sense to pursue that.’ The Dutchman began his culinary career in his native country, helping out as he grew up at his grandparents’ restaurant in the port town of Vlissingen. It was there in the Netherlands, early in his career, that his talent was first noticed, when he won the prestigious Golden Chef’s Hat award for Young Chef of the Year. This paved the way for Ekkebus’s experience in some of the most respected restaurants in France, where he worked in the hallowed kitchens of some of the world’s big-name three-Michelin-starred chefs, Pierre Gagnaire, Alain Passard and Guy Savoy. Aer France, Ekkebus went to top-tier restaurants in Mauritius and Barbados, so that by the time he joined Amber, in 2005, he was at the helm of some of the most exciting fine dining in Hong Kong.
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It should be noted that at the time of Amber’s launch, there were one or two restaurants in Hong Kong offering French and European fine dining with a contemporary twist; some dishes were quite complex, needing waiting staff to explain what diners were to do with the various sauces and components. So, were such increasingly intricate demands part of the reason for Amber’s menu modification? ‘We listened to what the diners preferred, and didn’t like, without compromising our integrity,’ says Ekkebus, describing Amber’s culinary evolution. ‘A restaurant that wants to survive has to be a good listener. We were considered a fusion restaurant, which we’re not, and we have never been about molecular cuisine. ‘We now do French food, but not in the classical sense – we apply modern techniques. Where modernity is appropriate and has impact and a purpose, we use it – but we don’t use, say, liquid nitrogen or other techniques just for the sake of it… I learned a lot from eating in Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong. The best of Chinese dining is extremely focused – it is always about one, two or three ingredients. And I wanted to bring this kind of focus to Western fine dining. That said, although the dishes at Amber are light in ingredients, they are not always conventional – and all are plated in a strikingly contemporary way. Tables are treated to the finery of Free table linen, Christofle flatware, Baccarat and Riedel glassware, and bespoke Bernardaud chinaware. Ekkebus has always played a key role in choosing its interior elements. Beyond his role of chef at Amber, he is the hotel’s director of culinary operations and food and beverage, overseeing all the undertakings in these areas. And while celebrated American interior designer Adam Tihany conceived the stylish amber-toned dining room, with its striking ceiling decoration – a flowing wave of more than 4,000 suspended golden rods – Ekkebus gave direction for the table seings. ‘I made sure the seating was exactly the right height, and we chose quite avantgarde but simple plates, dishes and glasses,’ he recalls. ‘Some of it was a lot more modern than fine dining restaurants would dare have on tables at that time.’
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When the restaurant first opened, it had space for more than 80 diners; in 2008, a reconfiguration brought the number down to 55, allowing for more space at, and between, tables. More recently, the private dining room had a makeover. It is separated from the main dining room by Amber’s glass-walled wine cellar and vertical wooden louvre slats that allow partial or total privacy, and the new upholstered chairs were worked on four times before Ekkebus was satisfied. Fiingly, it is now known as the Private Wine Room. The best of Chinese dining is extremely focused – it is always about one, two or three ingredients Amber’s adjoining bar has been remodelled, too – physically and conceptually. At the end of 2011, instigated by the fact that the restaurant got booked up so quickly, additional tables were installed and the bar-counter area made smaller in order to comfortably accommodate single diners or tables for two. These days, on any given evening, due to Amber’s popularity, a few tables are held back for in-house guests and six to eight tables are on a waiting list. As well as the full à la carte menu, a newly introduced bar menu reflects Amber’s culinary precepts beer than ever – expect the likes of Iberian pork ‘snout to tail’ with piccalilli croquees, Wagyu beef mini-burger with Roquefort and onion compote, and Tasmanian smoked salmon with traditional trimmings and crispy sourdough bread shavings. There are also new aernoon tea listings – finger sandwiches and pastries can be ordered individually; millefeuilles, macaroons and scones are popular choices. The bar's cocktails aract many regulars. Among the house favourites is New Territories: bourbon, red and white vermouth, ginger, vanilla and soda – each part from a boutique producer, bringing unexpected characteristics to this refreshing dry-edged blend with a satisfying kick. Less alcoholic and quite fruity is the Knickerbocker, its dash of aged rum lightened with raspberry and lime. Premium spirits include rare vintage Scotches and rum, and wine listings, especially those by the glass, are in perpetual change, particularly in the dynamic area of the New World.
www.mandarinoriental.com/landmark/finedining/amber/
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Regarding wine, the restaurant’s head sommelier, John Chan – the only ethnic Chinese sommelier in a twoMichelin-starred restaurant in Hong Kong – is keen on an alluring constant: the carrying of lesser-known quality boles. He changed the by-the-glass selection when he joined Amber to include more wine from Italy, which he believes pairs beer than many French varieties with tomato-laden dishes. He has also featured wines from Lebanon and successfully requested the producer of Josmeyer Le Dragon Riesling 2010 (a delicate, non-sweet biodynamic wine from Alsace) to custom-make magnum boles for Amber. Another talking point is Carm Douro Touriga Nacional 2009, which, free of sulphur dioxide, is a lightbodied red from Portugal’s most prized grape variety. Naturally, Ekkebus is also involved in the wine selection, so that it complements his dishes. One of the main-course signatures to consider ordering is red amadai with fennel and orange confit, boarga (salted fish roe) new potatoes, bouillabaisse foam and olive oil emulsion – texturally, two airy foamed sauces play with the crispy seared skin of the meaty fish fillet, and the pungent bouillabaisse is tempered by the zesty citric orange. For a more robust dish, you might choose Bresse pigeon – the breast is grilled and the leg is minced and it is prepared as a crépinee ball, with Pommery mustard, Comice pear and jus gras. Pigeon is always on the menu, but, in the summer, the fruit content might change to peach, and although many of the dish’s ingredients are French, the grilling is inspired by trips to Japan, and the so fruit and mustard elements are drawn from the Italian condiment mostarda di frua (fruit in mustard syrup). The three-course set lunches change frequently, as fresh ingredients such as white asparagus or truffles are only available seasonally, but it also keeps listings lively: Ekkebus points out that 40-50 per cent of lunch diners are repeat guests. Undergoing regular changes, too, the Weekend Wine Lunch pairs six courses with four wines on Saturdays and Sundays. It is only natural that Amber will perpetually evolve. Yet, says Ekkebus, there is one key trait that he learned from his childhood experiences in his grandparents’ restaurant all those years ago that will remain a constant: to always keep hospitality and a pleasurable dining experience as priorities.
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SEASONAL LOCAL PRODUCTS, ORIGINAL RECIPES AND FINELY-DESIGNED COMBINATIONS – THOSE ARE THE DISTINCTIVE FEATURES OF A CUISINE OF VLADIMIR MUKHIN, CHEF OF WHITE RABBIT.
Flagship project by restaurant holding White Rabbit Family. Restaurant with contemporary Russian cuisine and a panoramic view of Moscow’s historic centre, curated by one of Russia’s leading chefs – Vladimir Mukhin. hp://wrf.su/en/#/white-rabbit/
In 2015 White Rabbit was named 23rd in the worldwide restaurant rating The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Along with an a la carte menu, the chef presents a tasting set, which consists of seasonal local ingredients. Once a week, unique gastronomic spectacles take place at the restaurant’s gastrobar.
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“The TesT kiTchen is serious, fun. our food is free To roam in whichever direcTion. if There is no immediaTe smile as we creaTe a new dish Then we are on The wrong Track. i wanT guesTs To be surprised and delighTed, To wonder whaT ingredienTs we have used and how we made iT. iT should be an advenTure!” Luke Dale-Roberts, Chef and owner, The Test Kitchen
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British born chef Luke Dale-Roberts trained at Baur Au Lac Hotel in zurich, Switzerland– at the time recognised as one of the top five hotels in the world. He returned to London where he honed his skills in the art of French fine dining at Elenas L’Etoile under Roux brothers protégé Kevin Hopgood. This was followed by a move to Australia where he explored Pacific Rim fine dining.
Returning to London, Luke continued his career working at the Bali Sugar (member of the Sugar Club restaurants in the UK), learning fusion cuisine at its best. From there he moved to the famous Soho House Media Club as executive sous chef where he cooked for the rich and famous; regular diners included film and pop stars Madonna, Kevin Spacey, Kylie Minogue and Oasis. Luke then headed to Asia for a five year stint, launching several restaurants in Singapore to Seoul. He continued to expand his global cooking styles opening modern fine dining venues serving Japanese-style cuisine to traditional French bistros.
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In 2006 he took the position of executive chef of La Colombe at Constantia Uitsig, liing the restaurant not only to the highest local standards, but bringing it international recognition, too. This included two Eat Out restaurant of the year awards, Eat Out Chef of the Year, and culminated in Luke being named ‘One to Watch’ at the San Pellegrino’ World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards in 2013.
Luke’s culinary creations are for the discerning diner in search of imagination and superb technique. He starts with the thought that a dish should be understandable and have bold flavours. “From there I build it and add textures and presentation. I’m always tweaking and refining to find a dish’s full potential,” says Luke. “My mantra is ‘taste, taste, taste!’” www.thetestkitchen.co.za
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SAMPLE THE GAGGAN EXPERIENCE AND DISCOVER THE TRUE MEANING OF PROGRESSIVE INDIAN CUISINE WITH OUR CONSTANTLY EVOLVING TASTING MENUS. Set in a stunning whitewashed colonial-style wooden house in the heart of downtown Bangkok, the award-winning Gaggan offers a culinary experience like no other. Drawing on his memories of the amazing street food and diversity of India's different regional cuisines, Chef Gaggan Anand uses science and modern technology to create modernist and progressive reinterpretations of traditional recipe that have made his restaurant the top dining destination in Bangkok with residents as well as visitors. Visitors flock from far and wide to visit the two-time No.1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, and it’s not just for Gaggan’s huge personality. The 19-part tasting menu dubbed The Gaggan Experience is as much about exploring unique modern interpretations of Indian cuisine as it is about enjoying the relaxed colonial house atmosphere and the chef’s ebullient company.
hp://eatatgaggan.com
A meal begins with a multitude of molecular bites, followed by a succession of inventive dishes that each tell their own tale. Red Matcha is a tea ceremony of tomatoes, while The Story of a Fish Called Kin-Medai breaks down a fish from face to fin. I Want My Curry! is served in a traditional Indian tiffin box containing rice, naan and tikka masala. The cocktail selection is as elaborate and creative as the dinner, with delights such as Gaggan’s take on the Indian classic, coconut lassi. Dreams of a test kitchen came true aer recent renovations to the converted house in which the restaurant resides. Comfort food restaurant Meatlicious opened in Bangkok in late 2015 serving beer, burgers and bites such as ceviche, quinoa salads and Gaggan’s favourite pasta dish. Although the chef is the mastermind behind the venture, it technically belongs to his wife because, being the good Hindu son that he is, Gaggan promised his mother he wouldn’t make money from beef.
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le bernardin arriving from paris in 1986, we quieTly opened le bernardin in new york…” Born in Paris in 1972 by sibling duo Maguy and Gilbert Le Coze, Le Bernardin only served fish: Fresh, simple and prepared with respect. Aer receiving its first Michelin star in 1976, and two more in 1980, the Le Coze’s set to open Le Bernardin in New York in 1986. Aer the unexpected passing of Gilbert in 1994, Maguy Le Coze began working closely with Chef Eric Ripert, a disciple and close friend of Gilbert, who took over the kitchen to continue preparing the freshest seafood with the simple philosophy that the fish is the star of the plate.
Le Bernardin earned four stars from The New York Times three months aer its opening, never having dropped a star throughout five reviews, and is the only restaurant to maintain this rating for that length of time. The restaurant has held three stars from the Michelin Guide since its 2005 New York launch and currently ranks 24 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. The New York zagat Guide has recognized Le Bernardin as top rated in the category of “Best Food” for the last nine consecutive years, and in 2015 was rated by the guide as New York City’s top restaurant for food and service.
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Le Bernardin has earned seven James Beard Awards since 1998 including “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year,” “Top Chef in New York City,” “Outstanding Service,” “Outstanding Chef in the United States,” “Outstanding Pastry Chef,” “Outstanding Wine Service,” and “Best Restaurant Design” in 2012. Most recently, the Foundation named Maguy Le Coze as Outstanding Restaurateur in 2013. In 1999, Ripert and partner Maguy Le Coze expanded their business to form Ripert Consulting which so far has shaped restaurants in Florida, California and New York City and has partnered with the Ritz-Carlton to open restaurants in Washington D.C., Philadelphia and the Caribbean. 1998 saw the publication of Le Bernardin’s first cookbook, called Le Bernardin—Four Star Simplicity, followed by A Return to Cooking (2002), On the Line (2008), Avec Eric (2010) and My Best: Eric Ripert (2014). Most recently, Chef Ripert released a memoir entitled, 32 Yolks: From My Mother’s Table to Working the Line (2016).
maguy le coZe “You must always evolve. If the restaurant were still like it was the day we opened, it would be old! You must always change — but subtly.”
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Originally from a small fishing village in Briany where her grandfather was a fisherman and her parents owned the Hotel de Rhuys, a small inn and restaurant, Maguy opened the first Le Bernardin in Paris in 1972 with her brother Gilbert as chef and co-owner.
The restaurant was immediately heralded as one of Paris’ hoest restaurants and in 1982 aer moving to a larger location, it was awarded two Michelin stars. In 1986, the two expanded upon their Parisian success and opened Le Bernardin in New York City, which was immediately met with critical acclaim from The New York Times, which awarded the restaurant four stars. Aer the untimely passing of Gilbert in 1994, Maguy began working closely with chef Eric Ripert to uphold Le Bernardin’s tradition of excellence and innovation. Following a significant and striking redesign by Bentel & Bentel in September 2011, Le Bernardin continues to maintain this tradition, simultaneously drawing a new generation of diners while staying true to the artistry and consistency that have made it such a success. In September 2014, Maguy and Eric opened Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, named for their acclaimed wine director Aldo Sohm, just steps away from Le Bernardin, as well as Le Bernardin Privé, a dynamic space above Aldo Sohm Wine Bar that can accommodate a range of events including weddings, cocktail receptions and corporate meetings. In 2013, Maguy received a James Beard Award for “Outstanding Restaurateur,” and was the first woman to ever be honored in this category. Under Maguy’s loving guidance, Le Bernardin continues to receive universal acclaim for its food and service, a testament to its timeless appeal. www.le-bernardin.com
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American Express World Luxury Expo, Riyadh .": 2 0 1 7 Showcasing a selection of the World’s Leading Luxury Brands ACCESS BY INVITATION ONLY
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Mary Gostelow’s CHOOSES 20 GREAT As someone who travels over 300 days a year and oen dines in hotel restaurants, I know what I like. Essential ingredients are an ambience that is welcoming and ideally light-and-bright (but there are exceptions, notably the subterranean Breeze at Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, Munich, and the highly popular windowless Solero tapas restaurant at Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, in Dubai). There should at least be enough light to be able to read the menu. Tables and chairs, or banquees, should be the right height – if you notice the height, there is something wrong.
MEE at Belmond Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil is celebrity chef Ken Hom's poolside baby (he used to holiday at the hotel, anyway, and still swim for hours). Try the Crispy salmon carpaccio with capelin fish roe, part of the eight-course tasting menu. It gained a Michelin star in its first year. www.kenhom.com/meerestaurant
Service is another necessary ingredient. There should be instant aention, and then whenever you, not they, want. Those who tell you what their name is should be down-graded, as should those who interrupt your conversations, and ask you again and again if everything is all right. And now we come to food. Whatever its style, it should stick to that concept, and be as authentic as possible. Portion sizes must be realistic, although we know some Americans like to be able to take home doggie bags that would later feed an entire pack of hounds. On the wine side, good for Hilton London Gatwick for having glasses clearly labelled 125ml, 175ml and 250ml: industry-wide, ask for a glass of wine and you might get what seems like only a couple of sips. Here, travelling roughly west to east, are some of the great hotel restaurants I have eaten in in the last six months.
Skye, Hotel Unique, São Paulo, Brazil is an eighthfloor rooop delight, invariably sun-heaven – eat inside, with all-wall windows on three sides, or outside, around the pool. The signature Caprese, with basil icecream, is an automatic starter for regulars, and yes, you need to book, for both lunch and dinner, even if you are a hotel guest. www.hotelunique.com.br Sugar Mill Restaurant, Half Moon Resort, Montego Bay, Jamaica, is a seven-minute buggy ride, near the Robert Trent Jones Sr golf course. Inside is like an old colonial house, while tables outside are on different levels of a deliberatelyovergrown garden (reserve the one nearest the still-working, 20-foot high water wheel). The allorganic Jamaican salad includes cashew nuts and
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HOTEL RESTAURANTS a plaintain dressing, Wagyu comes from Montana but the Tarte tatin is all local, with pineapple and chocolate, and a sorrel sorbet. Manager Watson Wordsworth has been here 54 years. www.halfmoon.com Plume, The Jefferson, Washington DC,, is Forbes Five Star recommended, a glass-roofed conservatory with delightful private dining nooks. Chef Ralf Schlegel's comps include Foie gras lollipops, and do finish with Crystallized violet and pear pavlova. The powerful sommelier, Jennifer Knowles, remembers what you drank last year, namely Liorai 2012 Hirsch Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. You might run into Lord Monti(cello), the hotel's canine ambassador, a rescue beagle whose Leash Party campaign for the US presidency has gone viral. www.plumedc.com La Chine, Waldorf Astoria, New York NY opened October 2015 aer the hotel's new owners, Anbang, said they wanted the best Chinese restaurant in the whole of the USA. It actually looks soly Italian, in elegant shades of blues. Skilled mature service, with such dishes as Black cod with wild fern, and Fromage blanc mousse on red ice granite. Start with a cocktail from barman Frank Caiafa's just-published definitive Waldorf Astoria Bar Book. www.lachinenyc.com
Ting, Shangri-La Hotel At The Shard, London has London's best views, on the 35th floor – look down through architect Renzo Piano's all-wall windows at the Tower of London, Tower Bridge and the Thames. Come here for ambience - even breakfast is stunning, with a do-it-yourself Bloody Mary table (£10, and Ketel One) and the supreme Alain Milliat jams, from France. At dinner, go British, with Smoked eel followed by Aubrey Allen ribeye. www.ting-shangri-la.com 114 Faubourg, Le Bristol, Paris, is the more casual of the hotel's two restaurants, and the one favoured by local gallerists, Carla Bruni and politicians from Elysée Palais, just across the street. Outrageous floral wallpaper, sophisticated-bistro service – choose Beef tartare, mesclun salad and frites, served on Haviland porcelain with a green and yellow rim. www.lebristol.com Bar Boulud, Mandarin oriental Boston MA spills out on to Boylston Street's pavement. Inside, thanks to designer Adam Tihany, the long room is lined by curved planks so you feel as if you are inside a horizontal wine barrel. Daniel Boulud's menus are always more-ish (think Mandarin Oriental London), and follow regular gourmets in starting with a charcuterie plaer made by the restaurant's own French charcutier. www.barboulud.com/boston
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Mary Gostelow’s CHOOSES 20 GREAT Le Brasserie Gordon Ramsay, InterContinental Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux & Spa, Bordeaux . Since he took over in April 2016, its popularity has soared – wine families and other locals come regularly for burgers, GR (cheeseburger) or Rossini (with foie gras and truffles). Book ahead! Do not miss the awe-inspiring onion rings, five huge doughnut-shaped rounds suspended over a horizontal pipe at the top of an upright C-shaped stand.www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com
Kollazs Brasserie & Bar, Four Seasons Gresham Palace, Budapest is where top Hungarian politicians and other decision-makers network (they enter via the zrínyi Utca side entrance, while hotel guests arrive from the lobby, past the jewellike patisserie counter). This is also a great people-watching venue, for visiting movie stars, perhaps currently shooting Fallen, and local A-list fashionistas. Just-cooked Salmon on a fresh pea purée is a best-selling lunch dish.www.kollazs.hu
Nobu, Fairmont Monte Carlo, Monaco is the must-visit fun place for the big names (entertainment, sports and anyone else with money) who have decamped to live this tax haven. Martin Hulbert's design makes it feel as if you are on one of those outrageously-large private yachts, looking far out over the Mediterranean. Nobu's signature Black cod is as good as ever, and ask Manager Luca Famei for his latest smallvineyard Barolo. www.noburestaurants.com/monte-carlo
Michael Mina's Firebird Diner, Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre, Duba is awe-inspiring – who ever imagined a Four Seasons having its only restaurant as an authentic diner with a working jukebox and, thanks to designer Adam Tihany, four ends of automobiles sticking out of the walls? Eat inside or out. Bestsellers are Firebird burgers – lamb, beef, gouda with fava bean falafel – and Sundaes. Fridays offer all-you-can-drink Gancia DOCG Bracheo d'Acqui bubbly. i www.firebirddubai.com
Alcyone, InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu, Marseille - local Michelin-starred Lionel Levy moved his restaurant into the hotel, and, unlike most 'celebrity chefs', he is there nightly. Palate cleansers are tiny vials of olive oil and pesto, suspended from a small olive tree. Do try Levy's deconstructed Bouillabaise, with all ingredients separately, and his Tuna tartare, under a seaweed hat. The view is amazing, across the Vieux-Port, 100 yards away, to floodlit Notre-Dame atop the opposite hill. www.marseille.intercontinental.com
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HOTEL RESTAURANTS Colony, Ritz-Carlton Millenia, Singapore shows how an all-day coffee shop can be transformed. Dale Chihuly's sensastional wall-hung green blown-glass sculptures remain, but the design now celebrates old trade routes, with memorabilia and sepia photos on internal separating screens. The buffet has moved from centre to periphery – and it is the buffet that everyone comes for, or intimate aernoon teas, when the separating screens are pulled round for privacy. www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/singapore Tosca, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong is, on the 102nd floor, the highest hotel restaurant anywhere, world-wide. Ideally stop off first, on the same floor, for a tutored tasting at Caviar House + Prunier bar, then, at Tosca, chose, say, Chef Pino Lavarra's Roast Naples artichoke and Australian Wagyu tenderloin in charcoal. And, throughout, it is the view that adds an extra wow (massive ships, below, look like pinpricks). www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/hongkong I by Inagiku, W Guangzhou, Guangzhou is fun Japanese – easiest ordering is the set-menu business lunch, or a teppanyaki dinner set. But be flexible. The wacky hotel might be hosting a fashion rave – or you could coincide with a regular irregular surprise pop-up food fest (say starter in the laundry, main course in the seemingly hangingin-air WOOBAR and dessert in Bliss Spa). www.wguangzhou.com Bistro B, Rosewood Beijing has made its indoorout, contemporary French bistro and all-seatstaken venue. American Chef Jarrod Verbiak's team operates totally in public: everything, even the home-made charcuterie, is performed in what is a theatrical food orchestra. Go simple, say Charcuterie plaer and/or Seafood plaer, Poed salmon in a Kilner jar, Steak with frites in a metal cup. www.rosewoodhotels.com
Sir Elly's, The Peninsula Shanghai is named for the father of Peninsula's current Chairman, an aviation nut (there is a 1930s seaplane in an adjacent room). Dine here for anniversaries, celebrations or your final night in town. Start with local Kaluga Queen Beluga and a glass of Peninsula's own Champagne, looking over The Bund, and the Huangpu River, to Pudong. Finish with Profiteroles with coconut and lime chantilly, with blackberry coulis poured over. www.shanghai.peninsula.com Boccalino, Four Seasons Hotel Seoul amazingly combines Italian and Korean. Try the Milanese Chef's Korean calamari strips with lemon peel, broccoli and anchovies atop quinoa, and Grilled marinated Korean spring chicken with herbs, and masses of garlic, of course. Skilled American designers AvroKO conceived the ambience, and the hotel's Czech GM personally designed the blue and white china. www.fourseasons.com/seoul New York Grill, Park Hya Tokyo has been a legend since its 1996 opening. 52 floors high, with all-wall windows looking over to Mount Fuji, the ambience also includes four mammoth wall hangings honouring Carnegie Hall, the New York Yankees, Radio City Music Hall, and the Rockefeller Center. Join millennial achievers at the lunch buffet, watch chefs in action, see 1,600 Californian wines and, a tip, try the Kobe. www.tokyo.park.hya.com
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puJol Mexican cuisine Made with all local products. Traditional and contemporary techniques combine to create one-of-a-kind tastes. Enrique Olvera Studied at New York’s Culinary Institute of America. In 2000, he opened Pujol in Mex- ico City, currently rated number 17 on the San Pellegrino list of the world’s “Fiy Best Restaurants” and — according to Restaurant magazine— number three in Latin America. Olvera’s culinary proposal, shaped and re- ned in the ensuing years, and subject to constant evolution, is characterized by its aention to detail, an exacting selection of ingredients, and avors that emerge from exploration and a deep knowledge of Mex- ico’s gastronomic potential. A first phase of his career involved a reinterpretation of tra- ditional Mexican recipes; later his work took on a more personal focus and continued ad- vancing based on the full, extraordinary uni- verse of Mexico’s bounty while never seing aside ongoing experiments both in contemporary cooking technique and in practices now millennia old. The results are recipes that cannot be forgoen.
To celebrate a full decade of experiences at Pujol, Olvera published uno, a volume that recounts the history and philosophy behind his rst ten years of work as he re ected onMexican gastronomy’s present and future. His second book —En la milpa— was released at the end of 2011. Media aention for Olvera has been con- stant, not merely for his individual work, but as well, as an ongoing advocate for Mex- ico’s culinary culture, in conjunction with his peers, many of whom are members of the Colectivo Mexicano de Cocina. His pas- sion is to position the cuisines of Mexico on the world scene, professionalize the nation’s gastronomy industry and bring Mexico the prominence it deserves. Among many other related activities, his leadership at Mesa- mérica —an annual international food con- ference now in its third successful year— of- fers evidence of this commitment, and has become a landmark Latin American event for exchange and discussion among chefs, cooking students and professionals drawn from numerous related elds. Recent years have seen Olvera take up yet other concepts, from gourmet retail and Mexico City’s celebrated eno cafés to restau- rants such as Moxi (San Miguel de Allende) and Maíz de Mar(Playa del Carmen). www.pujol.com.mx/en/
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at the clove club we serve an aMbitious five course Menu and an extended Menu, featuring interesting and often overlooked british ingredients and produce. The Clove Club is a restaurant in Shoreditch Town Hall in East London. Built in 1865, the Town Hall was for over 100 years one of the grandest vestry halls in the city. Having ceased to be a home for local government during the 1960s it is now a popular arts and events space, run by Shoreditch Town Hall Trust.
In our front room we also have a bar which guests are welcome to drop in for a drink and a snack. hp://thecloveclub.com
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SaISON SAISON IS FRENCH FOR “SEASON” – A wORd THAT REPRESENTS OuR COMMITMENT TO CONSTANT CHANgE, EvOLuTION, ANd HONORINg THE vERY BEST OF EACH MOMENT.
what started as a weekly pop-up in the back of a café seven years ago has evolved into one of the most exclusive restaurants in the world. No expense is spared at Saison, where chef Joshua Skenes’ immaculate aention to detail permeates all aspects of the operation. The nightly changing tasting menu of up to 18 courses not only showcases the highest-quality produce but is guided by what is best on that very day, giving a whole new meaning to seasonality.
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dishes may feature Skenes’ infamous ‘Liquid Toast,’ a glazed sea urchin served on crusty bread soaked in a rich sauce of grilled bread and dusted with a powder of river vegetables; or barbecued celeriac, which is slow-cooked in the fireplace for three days.
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The impressive open-plan restaurant combines stark industrial elements with so organic furnishings in a room where exposed brick meets Scandinavian faux fur. At the centre is a barrierfree kitchen where chefs busy themselves in between visiting every table to present and explain each dish. Casual luxury. There’s no dress code at Saison, where a soundtrack of 1980s or 1990s rock classics plays in the background. waiters effortlessly perfect relaxed-yet-faultless service to make guests feel at home.
Saison made its debut on The world’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2014 as the One To watch. www.saisonsf.com
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NIhONRy RyUGIN JAPANESE CuISINE IS A SYMBOL OF THE RICHNESS OF OuR COuNTRY. TASTINg JAPAN'S TREASuREd INgREdIENT S IN THEIR vERY NATuRAL STATE IS THE "uLTIMATE FEAST".
To prepare Japanese cuisine and present the amazing ingredients of Japan to customers daily is sharing the spirit of "wa (harmony)" with many people and convey the richness of the whole of Japan, and provide a space to admire a moment of a delicious banquet together. The dinner and the preparer resonate with each other through the food and recognize the preciousness of the richness of Japan... To be able to convey this everyday with pride to people might be akin to doing our important "national duty" for Japan.
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As a Japanese cuisine chef with this sense of a self imposed mission I felt during my training, I opened this small Japanese restaurant on december 23, which is a special day in Japan with the feeling of raising the flag of Japan.
The origin of our name "Ryugin" comes from the words of "Zen", and is derived from Ryugin-unki during my training, I came across a book of “Zen” and within it, a hidden meaning of Ryugin-unki "when a heroic person makes a decision and takes action, his comrades will mutually resonate and gather there..." That lesson moved my heart, and made me decide on the name of my restaurant.
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Japanese cuisine is a symbol of the richness of our country. Tasting Japan's treasured ingredients in their very natural state is the "ultimate feast". This is possible in Japan because it is a country rich with ingredients... To select the choicest ingredients and believe in them to create dishes that you can be proud of. The richness of the "excellence of taste" of the natural ingredients that spreads throughout your mouth and the feeling of happiness as they travel into the body is a sensation that cannot be described in words. I believe the delicious flavors that are subtle and yet at times powerful, can only flow from authentic ingredients and when experienced with the aroma and warmth of the meal, is a most joyful feeling. Our techniques and hearts as chefs are present when we honestly and distinctly convey the ingredients that nature has fostered.
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In a kitchen where treasures of "natural ingredients" from all around the country are gathered, occasionally we gently help the ingredients up onto their dishes. To the extreme where the delicious flavors leave you speechless... To discover what that is, we face the ingredients every day to determine and understand and that is what defines cooking. Japan's most excellent ingredients are "the pride of the Japanese people". when the changing of the seasons is felt and while admiring the blessings of nature, you can enjoy the luxury of the many varied presentations of Japanese cuisine. If you would spend a moment of such luxury at Ryugin, we would be most pleased. www.nihonryori-ryugin.com
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geraniuM geraniuM is a lucid, light and dynaMic kitchen. our Mission is to create Meals that involve all our senses - restores, challenges and enriches. "dynamic means force and stands for the living formative forces of nature. These forces are not visible, but their biologic "footprints" are. The effects can be seen if one learns to observe and understand the connections between the formative forces and the physical maer of all organisms". Dinner in the canopy The restaurant is situated on the 8th floor in Fælledparken (Common gardens) in the center of Copenhagen, from where one can follow the seasons' journey through the tree crowns, catch glimpses of the city's green copper roofs and just see the windmills of Oeresund.
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The location emphasizes geranium's vision of gastronomic clarity and diversity. we explore the area of tension between the urbane and the natural. Inspiration Kitchen A beautiful, creative and light dining room with an open kitchen & wine cellar. The room is ideal for exclusive private dining, anniversaries, meetings and other private events. www.geranium.dk/
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TICKETS THE ORIGIN OF THE PROJECT WAS BORN WITH ALBERT AdRIà, WHO AFTER SEVERAL YEARS AT BAR INOPIA, DECIDED TO GIVE LIFE TO AN OFFER THAT WAS NOT POSSIBLE WITH THE PHYSICAL LIMITATIONS OF THE PLACE.
In this inspired frame of mind he involved his brother Ferran, who at once became enthusiastic for the project, and its proposed cultural significance. At the same time Albert involved the Iglesias brothers, Juan Carlos, Borja and Pedro, owners of the Rías de galicia group,
and so the unique space based on Barcelona city becomes a reality, which aempts to reflect the leisure spirit of Paralelo, becoming therefore one more show on the scene. www.ticketsbar.es
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astrid y our story begins in 1994 and astrid gutsche acurio, fresh froM studying cooking in paris, founded the restaurant in a sMall house in Miraflores. initially, very french, according to the global trend.
Character, native dishes and brilliant execution combine to create an all-conquering phenomenon despite its discreet seing – behind an old colonial façade on a side street near Lima’s Parque Kennedy – and its cosy, low-key ambience, Astrid y gastón is all about exuberance and personality. Perhaps it’s no wonder: gastón Acurio has been Peru’s best known celebrity chef for more than a decade, with a fine-dining empire that now stretches from Bogotá to Madrid, from Buenos Aires to San Francisco and New York. But this Miraflores original – opened in 1994 and slated to relocate to new premises in 2014 – remains his signature eatery, epitomising not just his Peruvian-Mediterranean style but also his own character.
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Take, for example, the Peking guinea pig, described on the menu thus: ‘Tired of being rejected by the world, the guinea pig decides to disguise itself as a Peking duck, dressed with rocoto and purple corn crêpe. It got a standing ovation from everyone.’ This culinary whimsy pervades throughout, as indigenous ingredients such as huacatay and aji chilli pepper are combined with global flavours to create dishes such as mango cebiche, or the baby goat leg in a stew served with watercress salad and potatoes. At the dessert course, wife Astrid takes over: her extensive list of sweets tempts the tastebuds with options such as Punished Apple, or Sweetly Trapped Bananas.
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Alongside the a la carte options and ‘traditional’ tasting menu, there is also a new seasonal multisensory dining experience presented. Entitled El viaje – The Journey – it charts Italian immigrants sailing to and seling in Peru, expressed through 16 courses enhanced by relevant music, fashion, décor and tableware. If that sounds like it’s verging on the pretentious – fear not: Acurio’s light touch ensures it remains as entertaining as it is ambitious. This, aer all, is The Cusqueña Best Restaurant in Latin America. www.astridygaston.com
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presents
American Express World Luxury Expo, Jeddah 0$50#&3 2 0 1 7 Showcasing a selection of the World’s Leading Luxury Brands ACCESS BY INVITATION ONLY
www.world-luxury-expo.com/ world-luxury-expo-jeddah/
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RESTAURA
I dREAMT ABOuT OwNINg A SMALL PLACE LIKE A LITTLE HOuSE wIT THE RESTAURANT Restaurant ANdRÉ welcomed its first guest in October 2010. An intimate three-storey heritage shop house was built around 1930, situated in Bukit Pasoh road offering 30 seats everyday. Restaurant André sees the illustrious chef continue his focus on using fresh artisan produce selected by artisans daily to create spontaneous culinary art that reflects his roots in Southern French nouvelle cuisine.
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The restaurant is also a showcase for Chef André’s artistic talents, especially his passion for poery. The chef draws inspiration from his delicately craed plates, chairs and art pieces which are on display throughout the restaurant.
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Restaurant André is not only the best restaurant in Singapore but also carries the legacy of another history of Singapore, and the best kept secret of the restaurant where the original building was called "Laycock & Ong", the very first law firm in Singapore that Mr. Lee Kuan Yew - Singapore's most respected Mentor Minister used to work as a lawyer.
"The most beautiful process of cooking is time…” — André Chiang
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ABOUT ANDRÉ CHIANG Born in Taiwan, André Chiang started his culinary career at the age of 15, moved to the south of France to be trained under Jacques and Laurent Pourcel at Le Jardin de Sens- Montpellier, where he started his culinary journey. Nine years later, he became head chef of the 3 stars Michelin restaurant. André also worked under France’s most respected chefs such as Pascal Barbot, Pierre gagnaire, Joël Robuchon and Michel Troisgros. At the age of 30, André decided to travel back to Asia and rediscover his Asian roots, bringing his natural-born-talent, profound French techniques and Mediterranean influences to Singapore, and immediately became one of the most influential chefs in Asia.
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Multi-lingual André is also a sculptor and ceramicist and his creations are part of the décor and service at Restaurant André.
CUISINE 8 Elements 8 Inspiring dishes: Octaphilosophy is André's essence and true value, at the heart of all his cooking. with Octaphilosophy, he devotes each dish to another inspiration; this creates a series of completely independent yet cohesive dishes. Octaphilosophy engages and yet constantly surprises the diner’s palate and senses with new taste sensations: Personal, Spontaneous and Emotional; a new generation of French Nouvelle cuisine.
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WINE JOURNAL Restaurant ANdRÉ’s unique cellar features rare, small-production, artisanal boutique wineries across France, with an emphasis on purely natural and biodynamic wines. The intensity of depth in selecting the best natural wine is our philosophy: we believe we are only enhancing the beauty of, but not manipulating, nature. This holds true from our cuisine to non-alcoholic fermented juice, and so does our carefully selected natural wine collection. “We select every bole of wine, like how we select every piece of vegetable, 100% natural, artisanal and very personal…” — André Chiang
JUS FERMENTATION Juice is the purest way to appreciate nature in the liquid form. Chef André Chiang reveals the care and aention of his research over the last decade, which takes months to cra every single of his unique fermented juices “Jus des idées”. By creating a brand new pairing experience, this collection of fermented juices with astringency, smoky, grassy or creamy flavours and textures give the wine-like sensation of full taste, body and aroma. hp://restaurantandre.com
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vendôMe enJoy gourMet cuisine by the best representative of the so-called "new gerMan cuisine" The restaurant vendôme, near Cologne, headed by 3-star chef Joachim wissler, is one of the best restaurants in germany. Joachim wissler serves a blend of classical cuisine, creativity and modernity. In 2005 and 2013, the magazine "der Feinschmecker" voted wissler "Chef of the Year" and in 2009 he was deemed "The Best Chef in germany." Apart from three Michelin stars, the restaurant vendôme has also been decorated with 19.5 gault Millau points as well as 5 Feinschmecker F's, and is ranked germany's best restaurant in the "San Pellegrino world's 50 Best Restaurants" list.
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JOACHIM WISSLER'S PORTRAIT It is his love for the product and for pure favour as well as his infinity for refined compositions yet without frills that make Joachim wissler one of germany’s best chefs. His individual style of cooking combines provocative, modern and creative elements, whereby he’s picking up components of molecular cuisine to accent his creations. Joachim wissler is considered to be one of the shaping personalities that are defining the so called trend of the “New german School”, saying that almost forgoen regional products and dishes are experiencing a modern rebirth. www.schlossbensberg.com/en/restaurantvendome
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ORaGó wE ARE LOOKINg BACK IN TIME TO MOvE FORwARd ANd CONNECT OuR PAST TO THE POSSIBLE FuTuRE OF CHILEAN CuISINE, PuSHINg BY THE MEANS OF LEARNINg ANd KNOwLEdgE OF OuR TERRITORY, BIOdIvERSITY ANd INgREdIENTS.
FOOD due to our eagerness to reflect what the soil can give us at the right time, we bring you the best product coming from a small, uncommon corner of the planet, that we consider priceless. Our tasting menus combine and collect the best endemic produce from the Chilean territory; they represent a progressive evolution throughout the whole year.
The tasting menus may only be served to the table as a whole. water The water that is served in Boragó comes from the rain in the Patagonia, treated as an extremely pure natural resource. Milk The milk that is used in our recipes, and most impotantly of all, in our ice creams, is milked by us and comes from cows raised in a natural way in our fields.
A large part the food is cut from the ground directly by us, as through small producers and foraging communities from all over the country, which is the reason why the dishes may change at any instant, even during a single service.
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Wines we dont promise a set wine list, because we don’t believe in eternally saving labeled boles of wine in our bodega. we work with a pool of wines and winemakers that is permenantly changing, the large majority being projects that are based in family passion. These small wineries are able to accurately project the adversely different conditiones in the Chilean territory. Occasionaly these projects have fantastic results, in order to see these results, we are the ones to commit to find those occasions .
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LUXURY DINING C Vegtables we commit ourselves to our farm that sits only 30 minutes from the restaurant, where we grow the vegetables our own way, taking advantage as best of possible to grow in the most natural form possible, but at the same time always searching for new possibilities. Foraging we see the restaurant as a support, because one day we could be cuing a wild fruit that only grows 3 weeks a year at 3500 meters in hieght, and the next day we could be in a native forest cuing mushrooms that only grow there in the world.
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attica has two private dining spaces, each creating an intiMate experience for you and your guests. Emotion and experience underpin a uniquely Australian adventure. Quite a bit, as it happens. Lamb, chicken, pork and beef haven’t made major appearances on the Aica menu for some time now, but those interested in the macropod family will be pleased to see not just wallaby blood in the pikelets (think a sort of tea-time version of blini) but also salted raw red kangaroo with native bunya bunya nuts and purple carrot in the signature dish. Emu has been known to put in an appearance and marron, the large, sweet native crayfish, is a mainstay. It’s no less an adventure in the glass, with pairings hopping from Tasmanian sour beer to serious skin-contact from South Australia to unpasteurised sake and back again. References to Aussie culture and history are threaded throughout Aica’s menus, some of them more subtly than others, whether it’s in the form of “gazza’s vegemite pie,” waleseed bread, halime oranges or the Anzac marshmallow that closes proceedings. Ben Shewry, the humble but brilliant chef behind Aica, actually hails from New Zealand originally. hp://aica.com.au/
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renowned australian chef david thoMpson values the strong, fresh flavours of traditional thai cuisine, and he delivers surprising tastes and textures in dishes of all varieties, whether savoury or sweet, Meat, seafood or vegetable. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of the hotel, overlooking the outdoor pool. guests may dine within its cool interiors or out on the terrace, and there’s also a private dining room ideal for corporate or social events. THE CHEF david Thompson is the Australian-born chef at nahm in Bangkok. when not in the kitchen, david is also an author, broadcaster and widely acclaimed expert on Thai cuisine. Prior to opening nahm, david established himself with darley Street Thai in Sydney, a restaurant that debuted in 1991 and was voted 'Best Thai Restaurant' by the Sydney Morning Herald eight years in a row. david followed this up in 1995 with Sailors’ Thai in Sydney’s Rocks area. nahm London came next, where david secured the first ever Michelin star for Thai cuisine. nahm was awarded the prestigious world’s 50 Best Restaurants and Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards organised by the uK’s industry publication, Restaurant Magazine.
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THE CONCEPT nahm has proved itself one of the best places for Thai cuisine in Sathorn, the central Bangkok district where Metropolitan by COMO resides.
PRIVATE DINING Private dining in Bangkok is popular at nahm—for receptions and traditional ‘nahm aharn’ Thai banquets.
Executive Chef david Thompson believes the traditional Thai meal is an exercise in balance, with the dynamic interplay of hot and sour, sweet and salty.
designed by Koichiru Ikebuchi, the three private rooms seating 10 to 12 people, have the same warm, contemporary ambience as nahm, which is the main restaurant. Note that two of the dining rooms can be interconnected to accommodate 24 people.
He uses robustly flavoured ingredients—garlic, shrimp paste, chillies, lemongrass—and melds them together to create a sophisticated, subtle elegance in which every element is in perfect balance. This includes curries, salads, relishes, soups and stir-fries, oen featuring traditional ingredients less seen in modern Thai restaurants.
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www.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok/din ing/nahm
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Celebrating Excellence in Spa Tourism
September 2016 Forte Village, Sardinia worldspaawards.com worldspaawards
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DE LIBRIJE JONNIE ANd THÉRèSE BOER HAvE HELPEd SHAPE MOdERN duTCH CuISINE OvER A 20-YEAR CAREER, COMBININg FABuLOuS LOCAL FOOd wITH CuTTINg-EdgE TECHNIQuES ANd IdIOSYNCRATIC IdEAS
Jonnie and Thérèse: ‘we all eat and drink every day, but what we really enjoy is making that every day routine a special experience, and to share our love of fine foods and beautiful wines with you. we were both born and bred in the region around Zwolle. we spent our childhood catching pike perch, picking water mint, searching for mushrooms, sneaking the punt into the decoy. In that kind of environment, how could you not fall in love with all those fabulous regional products?
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Many people consider these to be our specialty. But to us, it feels more like we’re special, because we don’t actually have a specialty. when you cook and serve a meal with a generous heart, and you put something of yourself into it, it all becomes special. Together with the team, we discover and explore the ingredients of a loving relationship between wine and food, every day. we love sharing our discoveries with you, and to treat you to a wonderful experience, without any fuss. we love going that extra mile for you.’
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HISTORY Jonnie has cooked in de Librije for more than 20 years. Thérèse joined the team as host and sommelier in 1990. In 1993 they took over “de Librije”. In the same year we were awarded our first Michelin star. In 1999 the second Michelin star follows, which makes Jonnie Boer the youngest two-star chef in The Netherlands. In 2004 de Librije becomes the second restaurant in The Netherlands to have been awarded with three Michelin stars.
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MENU de Librije has evolved an idiosyncratic cuisine. Rooted in selected regional products, enhanced by state-of-art cooking techniques. Creating modern innovative dishes and reinventing gastronomic classics. welcome to our surprising world full of passion and love for our profession. Jonnie and Thérèse Boer: “Aer 20 years of serving our guests, we offer the opportunity to compose your own menu. To make your choice more exciting and surprising and let you experience our kitchen, we offer our special menu ‘Librije’s mini-menu’ besides our à la carte dishes and the vegetarian menu.”
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WINE Next to the pure food we serve, I like to offer a wine to match. Every week my team and I taste several dishes and the wines to go with them. we keep trying until we’ve found the right match. My sommeliers and I make a point of selecting the wine that most beautifully complements the dish you have chosen from our menu and/or from our la carte dishes. Of course we respect your wishes. I also would like to present our wine list, with labels from all over the world. And there is a choice of 20 boles that are always open for you to try. It’s my pleasure to suggest a wine that makes your lunch or dinner complete. Enjoy…
www.librije.com
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cuisine is like a needle that passing repeatedly through sMall holes creates a thread so thin and strong that it unconsciously binds us all.
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The Alajmo family has given the world one of the most amazing restaurants ever existed – Le Calandre. Chef Patron Massimiliano Alajmo is the fih generation of chefs and restaurateurs, and he took his family up to the absolute top of all gastronomic heights. Culinary geniuses like Massimiliano walk on their own path and they have a level of creativity and inventiveness most of us only can dream about. It is a privilege for the world’s food lovers to be able to share his vision during a meal at one of the finest restaurants on the planet.
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Sarmeola di Rubano is a small town in the northeast of Italy close to Padua. Just next to the main road, a big sign will indicate that you have arrived at one of the world’s most prominent gastronomic destinations. The restaurant shares its premises with the Alajmo family’s Hotel Il Maccaroni and the Il Calandrino bar for casual dining and beverages. The property had a major refurbishment in 2010. Le Calandre’s dining room and the custom-made glasses, tableware and cutlery create the same feelings as the Chef’s cuisine which make it a perfect match. Massimiliano Alajmo manages the kitchen and his brother Raffaele is the Chief Executive Officer since what once was just a restaurant has grown into a business of several restaurants, a gourmet food shop, a café and a design label to mention it in short. Raffaele Alajmo used to be the restaurant manager, but that role is nowadays handled by Andrea Coppea Calzavara. Chef Massimiliano started to spend time in his mother’s, Rita Chimeo's, kitchen when he was a young boy. Rita is the fourth generation of chefs and restaurateurs so Massimiliano was born straight into the best possible circumstances to become a great chef. Aer his exam at the School of Hotel Management in Pietro d’Abano the young Chef took on his first professional restaurant job in Italian Moena. But it did not take long before he moved to France to work with two of the most prominent chefs of France – Marc veyrat and Michel guérard. Aer shorter sessions spent in their kitchens Chef Massimiliano returned to his parents restaurant Le Calandre where he became the Executive Chef in 1994. The same year his parents, Rita and Erminio Alajmo, who originally founded Le Calandre in 1981, le the restaurant and started up the business at the family’s La Montecchia. Massimiliano Alajmo just proceeds from strength to strength on his endless culinary journey and it is obvious that we have still not seen the culinary peak of this wonderchef despite the fact what he has already accomplished. Everything he touches becomes gastronomic religion for all your senses. His constant return to the essence with careful aention to the ingredients results in a cuisine which is up-to-date and makes you feel more alive and authentic than ever before. It is easy to write a book about this amazing chef and his family’s restaurant, but simply make a reservation and have the first chew on any of Massimiliano’s risoo dishes and you will understand. www.alajmo.it/it/sezione/le-calandre/le-calandre
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RELæ wORKS ON FOCuSEd ANd TASTY FOOd, NO MuSS, NO FuSS. EvERYTHINg IS CuT TO THE BONE, NO FRAMES BuT THE FEw HANgINg ON THE wALLS. The restaurant, Relæ, located in the Nørrebro area of Copenhagen, prides itself on delivering a, no nonsense gastronomic experience. Relæ has one star in guide Michelin Nordic Cities 2015 and 2016 and was ranked number 40 in 2016 on the list of the world's Best Restaurants. It is besides that ranked as the world's most sustainable restaurant. Relæ offers a creative kitchen free from the cultural heritage pushed upon the traditional Michelin-star driven restaurant, without being labeled as one of the usual, fine-dining, brasserie, or bistro restaurants.
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The chefs, have travelled the world in search of gastronomic delights, those mouthfuls that blow you away and justify travelling to a foreign country for a dinner. It is this pure love for amazing food they want to convey in their 'no frills' restaurant. The wine list is made up of a great number of good European wines.
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Warm and Welcoming The focus is on the company you carry, whilst dining here, with the magic of good food and wine, completing your evening. The atmosphere of Relæ is unpretentious, warm and welcoming, making everybody comfortable. On June 1st 2016 we kicked off the first menu of Head Chef Jonathan Tam.
we have been working on changing actual dishes and altering the format substantially. while still keeping our entry-level low, we put together one long arrangement of flavors, textures and ideas to be experienced as a whole. A truly Relæ experience. www.restaurant-relae.dk/en
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fäviken on fäviken we are passionate in our way of looking at the raw Material and huMbled by the aMazing opportunities JäMtland, tröndelag and especially kallbygden gives us in our work. we do things as they have always been done at Jämtland mountain farms; we follow seasonal variations and our existing traditions. we live alongside the community. during the summer and autumn, we harvest what grows on our land as it reaches the peak of ripeness, and prepare it using methods we have rediscovered from rich traditions, or that we have created through our own research to maintain the highest quality of the end product.
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we build up our stores ahead of the dark winter months. we dry, salt, jelly, pickle and bole. The hunting season starts aer the harvest and is an important time, when we take advantage of the exceptional bounty with which the mountains provide us. By the time spring and summer return to Jämtland, the cupboard is bare and the cycle begins again. hp://favikenmagasinet.se
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ULTRav By PaUL PaIRET THE HIgH-TECH gASTRONOMIC PROduCTION uTILISES vIdEO, AudIO, BESPOKE LIgHTINg ANd SCENTS – AS wELL AS THE dISHES ANd dRINKS THEMSELvES, OF COuRSE - TO STIMuLATE THE SENSES.
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Founded in 2012, ultraviolet by Paul Pairet is considered by many to be the most avant-garde restaurant experience in the world. Just 10 guests per night experience the ultimate in immersive dining in a secret city location, courtesy of the inimitable French chef-provocateur.
Tomato Mozza And Again, for example, is a clever duo of dishes – one savoury, one sweet – which appear to be identical but taste strikingly different, thereby playing with misperceptions of taste. On top of that – they also taste extremely good.
The high-tech gastronomic production utilises video, audio, bespoke lighting and scents – as well as the dishes and drinks themselves, of course - to stimulate the senses. Service is theatrical, but still light and personable.
Having been transported to the unmarked entrance, guests enter a cocoon-like dining space with a single spot-lit table, at which everyone eats together. The room then transforms itself throughout the evening; at one point the walls even slide back to reveal the kitchen at one end, along with the becapped Chef Pairet himself.
The original ‘uvA’ and the subsequent ‘uvB’ menus now rotate on alternative weeks (with uvC promised soon). All are original and wiy, with dishes that crack jokes, challenge expectations and trick the eye:
hps://uvbypp.cc
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interesting fusion cooking that’s careful not to duMb down flavours. raue is fascinated with asian cuisine and regularly Jets off to the continent to further expand his knowledge.
HE WHO WANTS TO DO WHAT HE HAS TO DO, IS FREE That’s our guiding principle, an idea that has shaped us and drives us every day. It is the basis of everything we create and was therefore also the inspiration for our logo, the Hummingbird. we associate the hummingbird with apects such as creativity, uniqueness, and freedom – aributes that also inspired the design of our restaurant, as well as our cuisine and our service. TIM RAUE Born in 1974 in Berlin. Aer training to be a chef, he gained his first work experience at the Quadriga restaurant in the Brandenburger Hof hotel, the Bamberger Reiter restaurant, and the Schloss glienicke restaurant. In 1997, Raue was made head chef for the first time at the Rosenbaum restaurant. In 1998, he took on the same position at the Kaiserstuben in Berlin and was chosen as the rising star of the year by the prestigious gourmet magazine der Feinschmecker. Just one year later, he took over as head chef and managing director at E.T.A. Hoffmann in the Riehmers Hofgarten hotel, along with his business partner Marie-Anne. Here he was awarded the title of “Berlin Master Chef”, among others.
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In 2003, he took on the roles of executive chefs and global culinary advisor at the Swissôtel Berlin, where he manages the culinary operations of Restaurant 44. In 2005, he was named “Rising Star of the Year” by gault Millau and his restaurant was chosen as one of the “80 hoest tables around the world” by Condé Nast Traveller. The high point thus far, however, was when he was awarded his first Michelin star in 2007, as well as the recognition of 18 points in gault Millau, and being chosen as the “Chef of the Year” by gault Millau in 2007. From 2008 to 2010, Tim Raue was the culinary director and corporate executive chef at Adlon Holding gmbH, where, five months aer the opening of the MÂ Tim Raue restaurant, he earned a Michelin star and 19 points in gault Millau. In November 2011, Tim Raue was once again highlighted as a potential candidate for a second Michelin star. In July 2010, Tim Raue and his business partner MarieAnne went into business for themselves and opened the Restaurant Tim Raue. Just three months aer the restaurant opened in September 2010, it received the recognition of the Michelin guide. Just over a year later, the gault Millau reviewed the restaurant for the first time, awarding it 19 points. This was followed by the second Michelin star in November 2012. In 2013, Tim Raue opened two more restaurants in Berlin; the restaurant SRA BuA by Tim Raue in the Kempinski Hotel Adlon Berlin opened its doors in April. The restaurant offers a culinary concept that focusses on Thailand and Japan. It is part of the Kempinski global hotel group and was awarded 15 point by gault Millau shortly aer it opened. The Aral Schlemmer Atlas named SRA BuA by Tim Raue the “New Opening of the Year 2013”. The la soupe populaire timraue restuarant was likewise opened in April 2013 at Bötzow Berlin. In accordance with the wishes of the investor at Bötzow Berlin, Professor Hans-georg Näder, the restaurant primarily serves german and Prussian dishes. Art also play an important role here, since the restaurant is surrounded by constantly changing art exhibitions from Professor Näder’s collection. gault Millau awarded la soupe populaire 13 points and named Tim Raue “Restaurateur of the Year 2014” in November 2013. The Michelin guide awarded the concept a BIB gourmand. www.tim-raue.com
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BIKO Biko is all about ‘techno emotional’ cooking – a term commonly associated with Spain and the progressive cuisine of chefs such as Ferran Adrià – the stuff most diners familiar with the style used to call molecular gastronomy.
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The restaurant has been described as a flavoursome collision between Spain and Mexico, with local ingredients and traditional Basque ideas mingling with more contemporary thinking
that some members of the kitchen picked up working at El Bulli. It depends which menu you choose – there’s the regular degustation, but there’s also “lo de hoy” and “lo de antes”, roughly speaking a menu for now, and a menu from before. The former is more focused on the Basque country, the laer more Adrià-eque in its aesthetic.
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BIKO, THE BEST OF THE TwO BANKS BRuNO OTEIZA ANd MIKEL ALONSO BET ON THE KITCHEN 'gACHuPA', A SuCCESSFuL BASQuE-MExICAN FuSION.
Sometimes it’ll be a traditional combination of ingredients but arranged with a modern European sensibility – Mexico’s chile en nogada rendered as a hunk of roasted venison sauced with peanuts and pomegranate, say.
At other times it’s more freewheeling: foie gras meeting pineapple and pineapple vinegar, or a texturally seductive combination of foamed cauliflower and artichokes. www.biko.com.mx
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estela new york’s very own newcoMer to the 50 best list is a paragon of apparent siMplicity, Masking depth – of flavour, of research, application and talent. In 2013, Thomas Carter and Ignacio Maos took over the intimate space that once housed the Kniing Factory music venue and turned it into Estela. Set above Houston Street, the lively restaurant serves food inspired by the Mediterranean, cooked with a personal approach that incorporates the distinct flavors of New York—from the stalls of Chinatown to the bakeries of Brooklyn. There is a deep wine list, as well as a bar serving cocktails late into every evening.
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Thomas Carter, Co-Owner and Director of Beverage and Service Before opening Estela, Thomas was beverage director at the award-winning Blue Hill at Stone Barns for six years. He previously worked in wine service for Alain ducasse at the Essex House, and as a cook at New York restaurants including Le Bernardin, Mercer Kitchen and union Pacific. He has degrees from Columbia College Chicago and the Culinary Institute of America. Thomas and Ig found each other through a truffle guy.
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Ignacio Maos, Co-Owner and Chef Born in uruguay and mentored by South American grilling master Francis Mallman as well as Slow Food legend Alice waters at Chez Panisse, Ignacio has earned critical acclaim for his signature style of bold seasonal food. Bon Appetit named him a 2012 tastemaker. The same year, his work at Isa in williamsburg yielded a James Beard Award nomination for Best New Restaurant of the Year.
He was also the chef at New York’s beloved Il Buco. www.estelanyc.com
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DINNER By hESTON BLUMENThaL IT IS NEvER EASY NAMINg A RESTAuRANT. ON THIS OCCASION, I wANTEd SOMETHINg THAT REPRESENTEd OuR MENu THAT IS INSPIREd BY HISTORIC BRITISH gASTRONOMY, SO I SEARCHEd FOR A NAME THAT HAd A BIT OF HISTORY, BuT wAS ALSO FuN.
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Dinner by Heston, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London In the past, the main meal -dinner-was eaten at midday, before it got too dark. But affordable candles and, later, gaslight saw dinner shi.
By the mid-1800s people were dining later. People working in the cities were taking a 'lunch' to work and having their main meal at 5.00pm when they got home, while in rural areas the main meal was still taken at midday. Even today, depending where you are in the British Isles, 'dinner' might be served at lunchtime, suppertime or, indeed, dinnertime! This made 'dinner' the natural choice for its typically British quirky history and linguistic playfulness. If nothing else, I hope it's easy to remember. — Heston
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THE HISTORY OF DINNER dinner began in the late 90’s with Heston Blumenthal’s fascination with historic gastronomy. The savoury ice creams of the late 1800’s, the theatre of the Tudor dining experiences and the dishes of Alice’s adventures in wonderland all resonated with his unique approach to cooking. dedicated to the modern day discovery and evolution of dining he realised that the excitement and obsession with food is no new modern day phenomena. Together with Ashley Palmer-was the two chefs created a menu that takes those discoveries and fascinations of history into a new and evolving modern dining experience. Researching 14th century cookbooks such as those by the royal chefs of King Richard II to Lewis Carroll’s flights of fancy. working with food historians, tapping into the world of the British library and the team at King Henry vIIIth Hampton Court Palace the very modern dining experience of dinner by Heston Blumenthal was born.
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The restaurant interior has been conceived as a subtle, elegant portrait – contemporary and innovative, yet mindful of tradition. The dining room features floor-to-ceiling glass walls, giving diners a view of the kitchen and its unique pulley system. Modelled aer a version used by the royal court, the pulleys rotate the spit on an open-fire. The ivory-painted walls are decorated with custom-made porcelain wall sconces in the shape of antique jelly moulds and of course the uninterrupted views of Hyde Park brings the connection to history full circle. www.dinnerbyheston.com
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developed from the great Combal.zero experience, up&down and down&up are two deceptively identical but completely different gastronomical experiences.
On the flip side, the up&down menu presents a new twist by beginning with the most complex dish and ending with the lightest: The frozen oyster salad.
The down&up menu, in traditional manner, begins with the lightest dish and moves forward towards more complex dishes, finishing with the “all’ortolana” pigeon.
So, why this inversion of the classic way we eat?
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two deceptively identical but coMpletely different gastronoMical experiences.
we believe that by leading with the more complex flavours and finishing with the more simple, clean, and acidic dishes, it sparks mental curiosity and aids the body’s natural digestive system and ultimately we get more out of the food and its flavours.
Exactly the same concept has been applied to the desserts. The up&down and down&up menus cannot be served simultaneously at the same table. www.combal.org/en/
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SChLOSS SChaUENSTEIN
SCHAuENSTEIN SCHLOSS RESTAuRANT HOTEL – A HISTORICAL CASTLE wHICH FEATuRES ANdREAS CAMINAdA’S AwARd-wINNINg RESTAuRANT ANd SIx uNIQuE, INdIvIduALLY dECORATEd guESTROOMS. | 162 |
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“A site of historical repute, the atmosphere of a castle, potency, elegance and uniqueness Schauenstein Castle is the heart of my world and the place of my endeavours' origin.” says Andreas Caminada. “Eating shall be a journey involving all senses, leaving a lingering impression” is his philosophy. Andreas Caminada prefers to work with rather simple and generally familiar ingredients, yet uses them in such exciting and different ways that his dishes never lack for anything. His cooking is multifaceted and his talent for various preparations of a single ingredient a feast for the eyes and palate.
whether crunchy, sweet, crisp, tart or bier – each component fits intriguingly into the whole and stimulates the senses. An homage to the palate, the balance between flavours and aromas sparkles delightfully on the tongue. Andreas Caminada’s cuisine has an immediately accessible quality. His food inspires wonder at how all possible facets of a meal could be so precisely synchronised, balancing an outstanding main ingredient with accompaniments sensually prepared and expertly assembled. A surprise for every guest. Each element on the plate is given a specific role to play – and each bears his signature. Nothing superfluous here, just pure impact. www.andreascaminada.com/sites/en/schauenst ein.html
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blue hill a stone bar
in spring of 2004, blue hill at stone barns opened within thestone barns center for food and agriculture in pocantico hills, new york. | 164 |
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In spring of 2004, Blue Hill at Stone Barns opened within the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, New York. The Barbers helped create the philosophical and practical framework for Stone Barns Center, a working four-season farm and educational center just 30 miles north of New York City, and continue to help guide it in its mission to create a consciousness about the effect of everyday food choices. Sourcing from the surrounding fields and pasture, as well as other local farms, Blue Hill at Stone Barns highlights the abundant resources of the Hudson valley. There are no menus at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Instead, guests are offered the multi-taste grazing, Rooting, Pecking menu featuring the best offerings from the field and market. www.bluehillfarm.com/dine/stone-barns
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quique dacosta cuisine knows no boundaries, but it does have roots, and we are giving it the wings it needs to ensure that the suM of its parts provides unique, gastronoMically iMaginative, innovatively cutting-edge sensory experiences.
Quique Dacosta Restaurant Cuisine knows no boundaries, but it does have roots, and we are giving it the wings it needs to ensure that the sum of its parts provides unique, gastronomically imaginative, innovatively cuî…&#x;ingedge sensory experiences.
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Boundary cuisine. we cook at the boundaries of avour, concept and technique. The ones that allow us to take certain risks and to push the
limits established by our memories. More than just separating, delimiting and distancing, this word is perfectly suited to describing this moment of my life. Luckily for me, my profession is capable of crossing boundaries, of coming and going, of taking, of bringing, of teaching and learning.
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Those things that are separated by nature in some cases, and by man in many others, gastronomy can unite and enrich, to the same extent that other disciplines do. At yet another point in history in which humankind, marked by culture, tradition, religion and politics, seems to be increasingly divided, I have faith in cooking (hard as it is, yet gratifying) as a bond that unites and enriches. These comings and goings, surprises and discoveries have opened my mind to traditions which, while unfamiliar to me, I find to be truly revolutionary. I am ever more convinced of the importance of local produce, of its incalculable worth; but at the same time, leaving a window open to the world is enriching both to the palate and to our own culture and knowledge. I make each ingredient, each technique, each nuance my own; I continue in a language that I have been devising for years – my language, the one in which I speak to my clients through my dishes.
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Origins Quique dacosta was born in 1972 in Jarandilla de la vera, Spain. Extremaduran by birth and valencian by adoption, he began his career as a chef in 1986. At the age of 14 he started working in the kitchen and immersing himself in books, almost all of them by French chefs with very different culinary trajectories from the one he was working on at that time. This sparked an interest in food that went beyond sustenance alone. At 18, he began visiting Spain’s best gourmet restaurants of the day.
3 Michelin stars The 2012/2013 Michelin guide awarded three stars to Quique dacosta Restaurante. www.quiquedacosta.es
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septiMe owner-chef bertrand grebaut has quickly coMe to be recognised as the future of french cooking.
This is a cool space in a cool street run by cool people with lots of cool customers. dip a fork into the menu on any given day and you’ll quickly discover that the food more than holds its own. Turbot is paired with Brussels sprouts, bacon and a sauce of mushrooms from Paris. The texture of new-season white asparagus is played off against oysters, hazelnuts and cloed cream. Oh, and there’s a sorbet of cheese flavoured with bay and teamed with an apple and pear purée.
Arpège, but in a few short years he has quickly come to be recognised among such luminaries as L’Astrance’s Pascal Barbot as the future of French cooking. grebaut and his team have colonised the neighbourhood with well-pitched brand extensions: the seafood-focused Clamato (possibly the best bet for the ever-tricky Saturday lunch slot in Paris) and the tiny, brilliant wine bar Septime La Cave. www.septime-charonne.fr
Owner-chef Bertrand grebaut is far from the only boldface-named Paris chef to graduate from the kitchens of Alain Passard’s landmark restaurant
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A magazine to tantalise your sensses, a place to think and be luxurious, published daily ly, weekly ly and monthly ly. Luxury is much more than expensive things. It is about a appreciation, the experience and time. Luxury is a state of min nd and a life festtyyle choice.
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Mary Gostelow’s TOP 5FORTHCOMINg
Trump International hotel
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Trump International Hotel, The Old Post Office, washington d.C. is, says its food-loving Md Mickael damelincourt, still on track for its opening, September 12th, 2016. The space at the rear of the 1899 building, a massive courtyard now glassed over to form a ninefloor conservatory lobby, will be a BLT Prime modern steakhouse, a favourite of the Republican Presidential candidate. An added plus is that the kitchen will be headed by one of the most friendly, bubbly and talented celebrity chefs in the uSA, david Burke. Expect 28-day dry-aged prime porterhouses for two, and wagyu ribeyes for one, plus lots of seafood – and celebrity diners. www.trumphotels.com
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Majorelle Majorelle, integral with The Lowell, New York, opens sometime this September. The long-awaited restaurant, at 30 East 63rd Street, can also be accessed from the adjacent hotel's lobby or via its upper, first floor, Pembroke Room, which will still serve hotel breakfasts and aernoon teas but at lunch and dinner becomes a separate room for Majorelle, reached by a new spiral staircase. designer Martin Smith, an Architectural digest favourite, is producing a classic series of ground floor rooms, with a rear conservatory garden. Expect noteworthy greenery and flowers throughout – legendary New York host Charles Masson, Maitre d' of Majorelle, is renowned for his floral creations. Another eternal name here is the Chef, Christian delouvrier. www.lowellhotel.com
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Mary Gostelow’s TOP 5FORTHCOMINg InterContinental London Park Lane InterContinental London Park Lane opens a new-style Mexican restaurant, as yet unnamed, early 2017. designed by david Collins, the all-day restaurant, with a street entrance, will have as Chef Patron Martha Ortiz, beautiful celebrity-chef daughter of renowned Mexican artist Martha Chapa. At Martha Ortiz's signature dulce Patria restaurant in Mexico City, #49 in S. Pellegrino's current Best 50 Restaurants in the world, her signature is duck with black mole sauce and banana. In London, which will have one of dulce Patria's top chefs permanently cooking, expect colourful china bearing awe-inspiring visual and tasty dishes. www.london.intercontinental.com
Kerry hotel Kerry Hotel, Hong Kong, opens december 2016, designed throughout by André Fu, whose masterpieces include The upper House, Hong Kong, and the Presidential Suite of The Berkeley, London. The most elegant of the hotel's four restaurants will be Merchants Restaurant and Bar, which will be modern Cantonese and regional Chinese themed. Lunch and dinner will offer noodles and congee through to signature dishes, and, judging by the sensational dining at sibling hotel The Kerry Hotel Pudong, Shanghai, it will be a really fun ambience, with great product (Shanghai's MEET restaurant has an inset, glass-walled ageing room). www.thekerryhotels.com
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g NEw RESTAuRANTS Royal Mansour Marrakech Royal Mansour Marrakech closed July 5th, 2016, and will re-open late Autumn/Fall with a new entrance, updated cabanas, and an entirely new all-day poolside restaurant, as yet anonymous. Like the hotel's existing restaurants, this will be overseen by French wonder-man, Yannick Alléno, who somehow manages to head kitchens in different countries simultaneously (you might find him at Molitor by Mgallery in Paris, One&Only The Palm in dubai, or here, in Marrakech). As well as offering coal-fire oven dishes at the new restaurant, expect such ongoing Alléno signatures as fragola pasta. www.royalmansour.com
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