The best of Britain’s South West

Out on a leg at the end of England, Devon is the thigh (where Cornwall is the calf), jutting into the Atlantic Ocean and surrounded by a craggy coastline. This is prime rural England with rolling hills, golden sandy beaches and picture postcard villages.

Probably most famous as the location for Fawlty Towers, John Cleese’s classic sitcom from the late 1970’s, tourists are finally waking up to the splendor of Devon with record numbers visiting in 2017. As my home county, heading to Devon in the summer is always a pleasure, with some of the best beaches in the British Isles. Due to limited public transport, the county is best explored by car, but explorers will be rewarded with beaches to match the south of France, rustic pubs and great atmosphere.

EXETER

A pocket-sized city with a large university population, the joy of Exeter is the old winding lanes dotted with boutique shops, old pubs set by the riverside, and its vibrant nightlife (thanks to those students). Throughout the summer, the city hosts an assortment of events including the popular Let’s Rock Festival as well as regular markets celebrating local food and crafts.

With a good regional airport, the city is well served by trains from London and the Midlands and makes a great base to explore the rest of the county.

DARTMOOR

You may or may not come across the fabled Beast of Dartmoor, but the windswept and rugged vistas will more than compensate. In the summer, the National Park is the perfect place for hiking, mountain biking and even swimming in lakes and rivers.

Never mind the Brontes, Dartmoor has its own literary pedigree as the location for Hound of the Baskervilles, one of Sherlock Holmes’ most famous adventures. And you can see why; craggy tors, lonely granite houses and wild horses add a mysterious air to this hauntingly beautiful landscape.

Hiring a mountain bike and hitting some of the many bike trails is one of the best ways to experience Dartmoor’s wilderness. The Granite Way between Okehampton and Lydford, Drakes Trail from Tavistock to

BURGH ISLAND

With around 450 miles of coastline, Devon isn’t short of a pretty beach or two. But Burgh Island near the village of Bigbury- On-Sea definitely takes the gold medal for the most picturesque. Situated on a spit just offshore, the island gets cut off at high tide. Then it is best accessed by the sea tractor—a sort of monster truck tractor that rides through the shallow waters.

But the main attraction is the art deco Burgh Island Hotel. Just looking at it, you can imagine writers and bon viveurs propping up the bar in the 1930’s and you’d be right; Agatha Christie and Noel Coward were both frequent visitors and the hotel even makes it into a Hercule Poirot novel. The other building on the island is the Pilchard Inn, a 700-yearold pub serving traditional ales. You can almost see the gruff old fishermen of yore spinning tall tales of the sea by the open fireplace! ...And the beach is pretty fabulous too.

TOTNES

Totnes has a bit of a reputation for being a center of “alternative” living. Long a magnet for vegans long before being vegan was mainstream, you’re likely to spot chakra realignment or meditation workshops and artisan food cafes alongside boutique clothes shops and independent art galleries. In fact, Totnes was named the most eccentric town in Britain by the Daily Telegraph newspaper, and after a stroll down the high street, it’s easy to see why.

Like many towns in the region, Totnes also has a castle set just off the main street which offers great views of the surrounding area. There is also a wellmaintained steam train which takes you to Buckfastleigh, another quaint market town around 7 miles away.

BARNSTABLE AND THE NORTH COAST

The north coast of Devon is blessed with some fantastic surf beaches such as Croyde, Woolacombe and Saunton Sands. In the summer months, there are still find pockets of beach where you can set up a windbreak and feel like you’ve got the beach to yourself.

Barnstable is a sleepy market town with a very rural character which defines the area. The pannier market is the buzzing center of the town where you’ll find local food and drinks, arts and crafts or even just a great place to stop and try to decipher the local accent.

LYNTON & LYNMOUTH

The sleepy twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth sit on the edge of Exmoor, the smaller moorlands on the north coast of Devon. The main draw for visitors is the world’s steepest water-powered funicular railway which takes visitors between the two villages. The stunning scenery is made for cliff top walks, and refueling with a traditional cream tea (scone, jam and clotted cream) or fish and chips in the village is a proper English delight.

PLYMOUTH

Although not the prettiest of cities, Plymouth sits in one of the most spectacular natural locations with a huge harbor opening out onto the English Channel. The city is home to the Mayflower Steps which can be found in the old town Barbican area. This was the last stop for the Pilgrims en route to the new world. Plymouth also boasts the UK’s biggest marine aquarium.

If you appreciate a G&T you’ll find yourself at home in the Plymouth Gin distillery which has been producing the fine tipple for over 200 years (making it the oldest gin distillery in the world).

Escape the big city and experience the real English countryside. Devon will feel like a dream, relaxing and charming all at once.

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by Oli Lynch Photos: Mark Bell, The Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, Dartmoor and Plymouth