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Ocean Reef Club’s Culinary Symphony
Ocean Reef Club’s expansive $45 million culinary operation encompasses diverse dining options and experiences in an immersive and exclusive gastronomic setting.
By Joanna DeChellis, Editor
A SYMPHONY IS NOT just a collection of individual musical notes or instruments playing in unison. It is a complex and dynamic composition where each instrument plays a role in creating the sound and mood of the piece.
Just as a symphony is a collaboration of musicians working together to create a harmonious and emotional composition, the culinary operation at Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo, Florida, is a symphonic masterpiece in which each culinary touchpoint contributes to an immersive gastronomic experience for members.
“We’re a private club on steroids,” says Philippe Reynaud, Director of Culinary at Ocean Reef Club. “We’re probably the biggest club in America, and we offer our members a unique way of life.”
Ocean Reef Club generates $32.7 million in a la carte sales and $13 million in banquet operations. It comprises 22 dining outlets staffed by approximately 600 F&B associates. The club has 5,000 members and serves 1.1 million covers annually. There’s a commissary, a baking and pastry production kitchen, a food truck park, an island-wide to-go delivery program, an employee cafeteria, a cooking school, a conference center, a wine shop—and so much more.
Understanding the scale of Ocean Reef’s culinary program is nearly impossible without seeing it firsthand. Many liken Ocean Reef Club to a city—it’s home to an airstrip, a fire station, a medical center, a service station and a school. While Ocean Reef differs from nearly every club in the country, the culinary team’s strategies for success apply to any club.
Reynaud believes Ocean Reef’s success originates from the interplay between the culinary elements on the island, meticulous organization, keen attention to detail, an experimental mindset and a dedication to the membership—all spearheaded by a talented team of dedicated and passionate professionals.
The Maestro
If you spend time at Ocean Reef Club, you’ll likely see a tall Frenchman riding from kitchen to kitchen on a Vespa in a chef coat. This is Reynaud, who upgraded his golf cart to a scooter years ago so he could more nimbly and effectively move about the island. Since his upgrade, he has become iconic on the island, and members wave to him everywhere he goes. (Members also frequently offer to drive any culinary team member they pass on property to their final destination.)
Reynaud has led Ocean Reef’s culinary team for 23 years. He is responsible for kitchen operations, staffing, banquets, conference groups and special events. He oversees menu development, events and cooking classes.
Born in Cannes, France, Reynaud graduated from the Culinary Academy of Nice following a three-year apprenticeship at the Casinos of Cannes and Deauville, Normandy. After working with top chefs in various French regions, he moved to Los Angeles in 1981 and served seven years as Executive Chef at the Westwood Marquis Hotel. He then moved to Executive Chef positions at the exclusive Sherwood Country Club in Thousand Oaks, Calif., and the luxurious Stein Eriksen Lodge in Deer Valley, Utah.
In 1992, Reynaud returned to Los Angeles to run the Jonathan Club’s culinary operations for eight years, working with Paul Astbury. In 2000, Astbury convinced him to come to Ocean Reef Club, where the two worked together until Astbury’s retirement in 2014.
“I remember walking around the club with [Astbury] during my interview, and he was walking so fast,” says Reynaud. “Everywhere we went, he was almost running.”
Reynaud recalls how Astbury’s fast-paced walk during his interview reflected the sense of urgency he expects from his leadership team and that matching his pace landed Reynaud the job as the new Director of Culinary, tasked with leading the club into its next phase.
Nearly everything has changed about Ocean Reef’s culinary program since that first day, but Reynaud continues to move with that same sense of urgency everywhere he goes.
The Scene
One of the first tasks assigned to Reynaud was to change the sameness of all the outlets on the island.
“The members wanted dining destinations across the property, but they didn’t want butter-laden, high-end cuisine everywhere,” he says. “Instead, they wanted variety, accessibility and quality.”
Today, Ocean Reef epitomizes a la carte variety.
At the Islander and Sushi Bar—an outlet that includes the Beach Grill and Palm Court and does more than $8 million annually—members can access fresh and flavorful Florida
At Town Hall Waterside—Ocean Reef’s food truck park— members enjoy seating under an open-air tent or outside under the stars. Each of the six kitchens o ers a limited menu—including pizzas made to order—with the exibility to change frequently.
Keys seafood, prepared in various ways and presented in special selections of appetizers and main courses. This restaurant serves fresh catch straight from the boats of local fishermen, as well as sushi and sashimi made to order by the club’s resident Sushi Chef, Eric Andreu. (See cover and photo, pg. 42.)
Gianni Ristorante is perched above the Marina and features a beautifully modern-designed restaurant fully equipped with porch seating, a cocktail lounge and authentic Italian fare.
The Raw Bar is located in the Fishing Village and is a favorite among members to relax and savor the bounty of the sea, including oysters, clams, stone crabs and shrimp, as well as a variety of fish direct from local waters. Every Thursday throughout the winter season, the Raw Bar also o ers one of The Reef’s most popular dining traditions: a Maine Lobster Bake.
The Burgee Bar is the club’s more casual sports bar located waterside. It serves an extensive selection of casual fare, like burgers, steaks and flatbreads, as well as beers, wines and tropical cocktails.
Town Hall Waterside (see photo, left) is perhaps the Reef’s most unique outlet. During the pandemic, the team turfed over a couple of tennis courts to create a food truck park with a giant tent in the center for seating.
Here, members can enjoy seating under an open-air tent or outside under the stars. Each of the six kitchens o ers a limited menu with the flexibility to change frequently. Upgrades to this space are currently underway, as it’s been such a hit with members.
CH Prime is the club’s crown jewel and is only open to members. Here, Executive Chef Jonathan Kaiser serves a world-class menu with a wide variety of carefully crafted dishes, including an array of prime steaks cooked over a woodburning grill.
The Restaurant Chef
Jared Reardon (see photo, right) is Ocean Reef’s Executive Chef. He oversees all a la carte operations. He’s been with the club for two years. Before this post, he worked in restaurants and in Mexico City, where he owned a high-end catering company.
“The size and energy level of Ocean Reef Club—from both members and sta —was too enticing to pass up,” says Rear- don, who had o ers from prestigious chefs and restaurants across the country. “The biggest mental shift from restaurants was understanding the club’s traditions and making thoughtful, strategic improvements.”
Jared Reardon is Ocean Reef’s Executive Chef. He oversees all a la carte operations and has been with the club for two years.
One of Reardon’s greatest impacts so far has been on sta ng. When he arrived during the pandemic, sta ng was depleted, and it took about nine months to get it back to baseline.
Now stabilized, Reardon has been dedicated to training and mentoring sta while bringing in a steady stream of international talent to help with shortages.
“I want my sta to feel comfortable stepping beyond their comfort zone, but it’s my job as their leader to give them those opportunities,” says Reardon. “If you’re too comfortable, you become flat and stagnant. You’re flavorless.”
While they are both passionate, Reardon and Reynaud di er in many ways. Reynaud has incredible tenure and is cautious yet innovative, while Reardon is newer and likes to take big risks.
“[Reynaud’s] experience and willingness to collaborate and strategize helps me learn from past mistakes at the club and create new opportunities that work far better than past failures,” says Reardon.
“I can keep my finger on the pulse of the operation because [Reardon] is good at his job, is high energy and he’s especially good at communicating,” says Reynaud. “Without a lot of communication, visibility and trust in your colleagues, an operation of this size doesn’t run smoothly.”
THE F&B DIRECTOR
Chris Patterson has been Ocean Reef’s Executive Director of Food & Beverage for a decade. He attended culinary school, which gives him the unique ability to “speak the same language with credibility” as the back-of-house, while leading the front of the house.
“I manage the managers,” says Patterson. “But I also fill the gap between the front and back of house. My management philosophy is to act as an air tra c controller. I help the managers and chefs create the best service and kitchen products. I provide sta with the necessary tools, whether it’s the right number of people or physical equipment. My mentor, Robert Maurice, taught me the importance of having the tools to do the job, and I try to make sure our team is well-equipped.”
Patterson has one of the most influential roles in the dining experience, and the success of that relies on communication, organization and training.
“To achieve consistency, it’s crucial to establish clear expectations, provide training accordingly and measure the results,” he says. “This includes monitoring member feedback and recognizing the e orts of the sta . By doing so, we can e ectively deliver that unique way of life.”
The Future
Ever the composer of big ideas, Reynaud has hopes to expand Ocean Reef’s culinary program further. He wants to establish a daytime bakery where the sta can have a better work-life balance while the club still gets fresh-baked breads.
He also wants to purchase a farm and use it to further educate sta and members about sustainability and local sourcing. He wants to expand on the club’s Food & Wine events and continue enhancing and evolving the event calendar.
“The day you are tired is the day you need to call it quits,” says Reynaud. “There are many people burned out in our industry.”
To remain relevant and avoid burnout, he says, chefs must expand and diversify their experiences: “Attending the Chef to Chef Conference, competitions, lectures and interviews, traveling, spending time with our families, and quantifying what we learn and like are essential.”
“Being a successful director of culinary requires not only being good at cooking but also having good communication skills, being able to delegate tasks, and having a good support system at home,” says Reynaud. “Working 12-14 hours a day, 6-7 days a week, is unsustainable. Encourage your chefs to communicate their needs for support to their superiors and make an e ort to maintain a healthy relationship with loved ones.” C+RC