DANSK Daily 08-02-2008 by Signe Kassow

Daily /issue#2 Dansk Daily Friday 08.02.08 Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

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exclusive interview

ANDERS HOLCH POVLSEN —Bestseller focus

THE DWORD — Danish design is design today’s shows

ANNHAGEN NOIR DESIGNERS REMIX Wood Wood, Baum und Pferdgarten, Bruuns Bazaar

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editorial

EDITORIAL NOTE Words Anne Absalonsen

Publishers Copenhagen Fashion Week and DANSK Magazine Editor-in-chief Anne Absalonsen / uncial.dk Executive Editor Anne Christine Persson Editors Lene Hald Kathrine Houe Susanne Madsen Photographic Editor Camilla Wejhe Editorial assistant Louise Thuesen

Fashion is still a hot political potato. But even political potatoes get outdated and the demonstration outside the Designers Remix show yesterday had an odd smell. Sorry guys, it didn’t really work. No matter how heartfelt the intentions, the demonstration was in the wrong place, targeting the wrong people. Don’t you read the newspapers’ business section? Right now, fashion is about environmental concerns, new production methods, organic fabrics and the welfare for everybody involved, including furry animals. Not that the fashion crowd can’t stand a harsh look - our shoulders are broad enough to carry all sorts of accusations. As a matter of fact few businesses are as disliked yet as loved as the fashion business. No, guys, if your intention was to accuse the Danish fur business on behalf of the entire animal race this is not the place to be. Danish fur farmers collaborate with Dyrenes Beskyttelse (Animal Welfare Organisation), a fur coat can last longer than most woollen coats and can be recycled two to three times. Where you should really turn your attention is towards destinations like China, India and Russia where animal rights are violated (along with human rights) in order to keep up with the demand on cheap fur from dogs, cats and rabbits. They produce not only fur, but leather goods such as the shoes you are wearing or the purse in your pocket. And seen in a broader ethical perspective you can’t isolate one issue from another: Fur is by far one of the most eco-friendly materials, it can last for a lifetime and is one the very ﬁrst items worn by man. It’s tradition and culture – and so is the art of demonstrating. And you guys have to realise that you, too, are in fashion – and out.

Art Direction / Graphic Design Jess Andersen / e-Types Kim Christian Bramskov / Style Counsel Distribution Nina Bach Emilie Møller Advertising Jungersted Media Carina Hedelund ch@jungersted.com Founders Danish Fashion Institute and Style Counsel Printing Elbo Print A/S, Strevelinsvej 28-32, DK-7000 Fredericia

Contributors Fashion photographer Nicky de Silva is a charlatan and womanizer, far too blasé to write about himself. We can tell you that he works on several Danish titles and is the co-owner of He magazine. Photographer Sacha Maric isn’t sure how he ended up taking catwalk photos... must be the money, kerching! Charlotte Torpegaard is the beauty editor of Cover magazine and TV show Go’morgen Danmark’s beauty expert. She also works as a columnist, lecturer, writer and consultant. CopenhagenStreetStyle.dk aka Søren and Jenny are Denmark’s most successful bloggers, inspired by streetstyle blogs such as Hel Looks and The Sartorialist. We apologize to Nicky, Sacha, Charlotte, Søren and Jenny for losing your bylines very late last night somewhere between the last cup of coﬀee and the sheets. We love you! Lene Hald is a fashion writer for at wide range of media and works as a trend consultant for Peclers-Paris as well as trend editor at pej gruppen/Scandinavian trend institute. Fashion writer Susanne Madsen graduated from fashion journalism at London College of Fashion in 2005, and is Contributing Features Editor at DANSK magazine. Marie Riegels Melchior, PhD-student at Denmark’s Design School and the Danish Museum of Art & Design. Mariska Sala is a graphic design student at Skolen for Visuel Kommunikation

The Green gold rush Illustration Mariska Sala

Camilla Wejhe has worked as a makeup artist, stylist, assistant photographer, prop designer, event maker and a whole lot more. She got the opportunity to produce a big photo shoot for American Vogue and fell in love.

It Items Photo Frederik Lindstrøm

Sille Henning is a fashion writer currently working freelance with diﬀerent aspects of press and marketing within the fashion industry.

Hairy Photo Hasse Nielsen

Kathrine Agger has a Masters in womenswear from The Royal College of Art in London and has worked as a designer for Matthew Williamson and Pucci and as fashion editor at Danish magazine Cover. She currently runs CYAN, a design and styling consultancy.

munthe plus simonsen Photo Rene Riis

Kathrine Houe has worked for a number of Danish fashion titles but now resides at DANSK Magazine as Executive Editor. Here she orchestrates everything from interviews and photo shoots to the famous DANSK parties.

Cover photo Nicky De Silva Photo taken at ANNHAGEN

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Words Lene Hald

focus

THE GREEN

gold rush The fashion industry is turning a bright cheerful shade of green and jumping on the Corporate Social Responsibility bandwagon. Is green only the ﬂavour of the month, or are we indeed experiencing a major shift in corporate ethics that will change the fashion industry for good? Today’s consumer is embracing sustainability and fair trade in food, travel and energy, displaying socially aware behaviour which would certainly please any eco-activist or agit-artist. It is logical to assume that fashion should fall under the same kind of selfexamination, but knowing how the fashion industry prides itself on constantly presenting the consumer with the new and the improved, one wonders with a feeling of déjà vu: Will a social conscience really spell the end of fast, cheap throw-away fashion? Much has changed since the last green wave of the 1980s. An increasingly intelligent, enlightened and critical public with a new powerful ethical consumer attitude is probably the core motivation for the corporate world. A personal boycott from these customers might be a serious threat to companies with weak ethical reputations.

status symbol of our time. Tom Ford, design maestro of sexy fashion, was a speaker at the International Herald Tribune’s Supreme Luxury conference in Moscow last year. He suggested that a symbol displaying ethical credentials should be visible on qualified and certified clothing, replacing luxury logo-mania of bygone eras with eco fashion passion. Over-consumption is no longer a signifier of success. Displaying the right ethics is. However good the intentions, there are still challenges to overcome for the industry. Organic cotton, which is grown without pesticides, still represents only a tiny fraction of the global cotton crop, about 2 % according to statistics provided by several agencies. Also, organic cotton is not always used in its unpolluted state as the eco textile production lacks regulation once cotton has been harvested. As a fabric it may be chemically treated or printed with toxic dyes, and still be labelled organic.

Hence, high-end designers have incorporated global elements and referenced nature in their designs. For spring/summer 2008 Matthew Williamson showed a stylish cultural melting pot, consisting of Indian beads and pearls on suede waistcoats, African raﬃa trims on sequinned tops and a Mayan eﬀect to the beading on a Hessian shift. It was the look of a nomad travelling around the world showing global concern and a multicultural outlook.

Such challenges should not keep any fashion brand from trying their best in the spirit of Social Corporate Responsibility. Perfection doesn’t exist and we are probably never going to achieve it, but it seems as if the consumer will reward a company for trying and truly appreciate honesty and eﬀort in the name of ethics.

In the same season, both Prada and Balenciaga have gone fully ﬂoral, ﬁnding inspiration in Mother Nature for their groundbreaking work. Nature is hot, and an obvious interest in ecology, sustainability and other ethic matters might even be considered the

When the fashion industry seeks to reverse its negative impact on the Earth and improve its CSR it seems to be no ﬁckle trend. Especially since consumer demand assures that there is money to be made on the green dream team.

LOOKING TO SHARPEN YOUR CSR? As a Danish fashion brand interested in improving your CSR politics contact Dansk Tekstil og Beklædning (Federation of Danish Textile & Clothing) or The Danish Fashion Institute. www.textile.dk www.danishfashioninstitute.dk

ECOLABELLING DENMARK Ecolabelling Denmark is situated in the Copenhagen area at Danish Standards and is responsible for the administration of the only two officially approved ecolabels in Denmark: the Swan (Nordic Eco-label) and the Flower (European Eco-label). Ecolabelling Denmark is independent of producers, brands and financial interests. Providers of products and services can apply for use of the logo for their goods. www.ecolabel.dk Download flower and swan logos at http://www.ecolabel.dk/presse

ØKOTEX 100 & BELIEVE IN TEXTILES The Øko-Tex label indicates when a textile is not harmful to the health of the consumer. The textiles are tested for health damaging chemicals and dyes. Danish manufacturers who wish to use the label have to qualify for a certiﬁcate issued by the Danish Technological Institute where Øko-Tex is situated. www.miljoeogsundhed.dk Contact: info@miljoeogsundhed.dk for øko-tex 100 logo

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Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

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news flash

IF THE SHOE FITS Two Copenhagen luxury stores have secured a couple of the most coveted French footwear designers. As of this season, Holly Golightly proudly presents gorgeous Christian Louboutins at the store in Store Regnegade, while Birger Christensen will be selling the exclusive shoes of Roger Vivier, the inventor of the stiletto heel. www.christianlouboutin.fr www.rogervivier.com

ORGANIC basics Understated elegance and eco awareness are Danish designer Fleur Tang’s raison d’être, and her timing couldn’t be better. The label’s contemporary classics such as tank tops and perfect tees in organic cotton are certiﬁed by Control Union, an international inspection organisation. If you are looking to shop basics with the heart in the right place, you needn’t look any further. www.ﬂeurtang.com

Naja & Kaja Danish fashion label Naja Lauf has undergone radical changes since the introduction of investor and CEO Kaja Møller 18 months ago. A restructuring in management and design has meant a 50 % increase in the company’s turnover and 150 stockists in Northern Europe, spelling a bright future for Naja Lauf. www.najalauf.dk

HELENA names it Danish supermodel/style icon/photographer/shop owner Helena Christensen can now add a new title to her long list of skills. Christensen is collaborating with Danish childrenswear brand Name It (formerly known as EXIT) on a series of collections for children aged 2-10 years. All clothes are made from organic cotton and shoppers will be supporting Chernobyl Children’s Project International. Christensen’s son Mingus will front the campaign every season – and his mother will of course be behind the lens. The ﬁrst collection hits stores in August 2008. www.nameit.dk

AGNETE’S aura Danish model Agnete Hegelund, older sister to model Gertrud Hegelund, was discovered by a 2pm scout when she was 17, but the fashion world had to wait 2½ years for her. Now 20 years old, Agnete is making it big. With campaigns for Alberta Ferretti and Pringle of Scotland, covers for the February and March issues of Vogue shot by Steven Meisel and a no. 33 placement at Models.com’s Top 50, there is no doubt this unique Scandinavian beauty is on the right track.

w w w. i l s e j a c o b s e n . d k • p h o n e + 4 5 4 9 7 0 4 1 7 6

AUTUMN WINTER 2008

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scandinavian upcoming

With a job at Diesel Black Gold and an eponymous label debuting during London Fashion Week, Royal College of Art graduate Hans Christian Madsen is Danish fashion’s new darling.

WINNER —takes it all

Words Kathrine Houe

Next autumn the new Diesel Black Gold line will hit a select number of shops. Behind the menswear collection is a young Dane who graduated from the Royal College of Art only last year, specialising in knitwear. Hans Christian Madsen describes his work as “functional fashion with personal expression,” something which the fashion industry seems eager to get its hands on. Immediately after ﬁnishing his MA Madsen was head-hunted by Diesel for its new line. “Working for Diesel has been a really interesting experience for me. Participating in building up a new label has given me great insight into a commercial company, the relation between the creative and the ﬁnancial part of a business and the respect and understanding the two parts need to have for each other,” says Hans Christian Madsen, who is currently busy with his own menswear label, which will be

presented as part of the MAN show during London Fashion Week next week. Work takes up most of Hans Christian Madsen’s life, leaving little time to settle anywhere. The Diesel job is situated in Italy, his own brand is based in London and last autumn Denmark also fell in love with Hans Christian Madsen, when he won Kopenhagen Fur’s prestigious competition The Golden Fur Pin 2007. Here, one of his contributions was a sweater made of knitted mink, and the judges stressed that Madsen was chosen for his abilities to combine luxury and wearability. Hans Christian Madsen concludes: “Fashion should be liberating. What you wear should emphasise your personality and support the choices you make in life. These values are very important in my work.”

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couples

The FASHION DNA of a design duo In the early Nineties two girls were late for their ﬁrst day at school at The Kolding Design School. The late arrivals ended up next to each other in the back of the classroom and this was the starting point for the collaboration between Naja Munthe & Karen Vedel-Simonsen. After more than 14 years, their company munthe plus simonsen still holds a unique position as advocate of exclusive femininity and rare handcrafted detailing. Words Lene Hald

“We instantly clicked,” says Naja Munthe about their first meeting. “We were infinitely in sync both personally and in terms of how to push things design-wise, so it was only natural that we should work together.” They have done so ever since, finding inspiration in each other’s qualities and a shared vision. “Karen is really ambitious and visionary. This impressive drive may come from the fact that her star sign is Leo,” Munthe smiles. “She is a leading lady and when working with her, you have to deal with that. I personally find it extremely inspiring that Karen is on a constant quest to make things better.” When asked to spill the beans on Naja Munthe’s traits, Karen Simonsen explains: “First and foremost, Naja has an extremely creative and artistic sensibility which I love, but she also has this amazing practical and hardedged business orientated side, which is extremely constructive. On the quirkier side she is really stubborn. We’ve had endless discussions on that account. This is very tiring but rewarding in the long run, because we benefit so much from each other’s different views.” In their first years Munthe and Simonsen worked on everything together. However, after three seasons they ended up spending too much time discussing little details, so they decided to streamline their work methods, which meant that they each did a line of styles which were then mixed into the final collection. “Not many people can tell the difference between our designs,” Munthe explains. “However, if asked to tell apart our styles we sometimes say that I am stress-free Ibiza and Karen is glitzy Los Angeles. When we do a summer fashion show I am always the one who wants the models to wear flat sandals whereas Karen insists on high stilettos.”

The Naja/Karen combo seems to work. The look is neutral in such a way that each customer can add her personality to it, yet the styles have a special sensibility. A Naja and Karen essence, best described as a distinct functional and feminine Scandinavian style merged with global references and a sexy femininity teamed with graphic slim silhouettes, a look the design duo refers to as the munthe plus simonsen DNA. Naja Munthe and Karen Vedel-Simonsen have showed that their DNA is far from an overnight sensation, having notched up impressive fashion credentials in their company for almost 15 years. Yet they have also experienced the downside of running a professional fashion company. ”It’s no secret that we have been through some financially tough years,” says Munthe. “But we’ve landed on our feet and learned positively from our experiences. We’ll never make the same mistakes again.” Simonsen explains: “We lived by the phrase ‘large is not large enough, great is not great enough and expensive is not expensive enough.’ We still believe it is essential to be ambitious and aim for the stars, but now we’ve realized that too much of a good thing can be risky business. Many design companies have experienced the same rollercoaster ride, you just don’t hear about it. We are the ones people like to read about in the media. Our company is so personified by Naja and I and that is why we ended up doing our laundry in public.” The bottom line is that the munthe plus simonsen phenomenon has succeeded in turning their downhill experience into healthy business practices, yet firmly sticking to their guns, setting the sky as the limit and aiming at the stars.

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COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 7-10 FEBRUARY Gallery Int. Fashion Fair at Forum Copenhagen +45 3312 0930 www.gallery.dk

/13 shows

NOIR After dark Wednesday morning turned after-hours universe on a Swarovski backdrop at Noir, as Peter Ingwersen returned to Copenhagen to show his eco-ethical label, which now also includes menswear. As the classical symphony orchestra, sitting pretty on either side of the nightclubby runway, strummed the ﬁrst note, Ingwersen sent out brass-buttoned navy jackets and dusty grey suits, taking a paired-down approach to his ﬁrst menswear show. Explaining backstage why he chose to present his collection on home turf, Ingwersen commented: “The New York calendar is completely messed up. We can’t show fur in London. And Copenhagen is easy to reach for German buyers, our main market.” There is a certain Nordic-Germanic air about the label, especially present in second skin leathers, which remain a Noir forte. If you want mean-cut leather leggings, Ingwersen is your man. Previously, Noir has dabbled in fetishistic themes, but thankfully, this has been toned down. Instead, Ingwersen decided to take his sexually charged material into sporty territory and ladylike mink pieces, to make the clothes, as he put it, more democratic.

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

Words Susanne Madsen Photo Sacha Maric

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shows

DESIGNERS REMIX Shapeshifters You could just about make out the hazy contours of models hastily getting dressed behind the frosted glass separating the backstage area from the prying fashion eyes. But as the girls resolutely stepped out onto the runway in the beautiful Ferry Terminal space, shapes, colours and citations became clear, vivid and transparent. Basing her silhouettes on drapes and incisions, designer Charlotte Eskildsen followed on from last season’s tucked and folded garments, playing with pleated organza Harlequin cuﬀs and collars and ruﬄed mini silk bloomers. She commented after the show: “I was thinking a lot about Stanley Kubrick’s A Space Odyssey. I’ve been exploring a new egg shape. It’s the new A-line.”

Gathered wool sleeves and backs featured prominently on coats with a Sixties feel and bright jewel fuchsia acted as an accent amidst the blacks. The ﬁerce, upwards-pointing shoulder that’s been coming out of Paris and London recently also made an appearance, but quiet, little mink jackets didn’t attract anywhere near the amount of attention the collection’s use of fur had sparked outside the venue, where a line of fur protesters had gathered prior to the show. But the miniature hair-covered top hats, perched on the back of the models’ heads as an extension of their own locks, lent an amusing, surreal air to the clothes.

Words Susanne Madsen Photo Sacha Maric

EKSEMPEL Fluid and feminine Words Lene Hald Photo Sacha Maric

The Danish fashion brand Eksempel was founded in 2001 by designer Pernille Winther, and yesterday presented its first solo runway show during CFW. The show opened with a light silk black tunic dress and closed with a similar silhouette, only this one was multi-coloured in a harmoniously graphic colour statement, which contrasted plaster white, ochre yellow, midtone grey and vibrant purple. In between Winther proposed a modern and poetic way of visualizing the female body in these tones, indicating that she is more into loose fits and casual styling than tight, sleek body conscious dressing. The silhouette mushroomed out from the slim line of the trousers and looked fluid, feminine, slightly oversized and sensuous. The tunic inspired silhouettes may not be new to the wardrobe, but the collection felt perfectly current and had a feminine, timeless and highly wearable quality to it. “The foundation for each new collection is the previous collection,” Winther explained. “My designs are not meant to be seasonal, but classic statements to be used across seasons”.

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shows

ANNHAGEN Medieval warrior goes wearable fashion “My way of working with shapes is still the same, but this time the collection is more commercial and accessible. Last winter my designs were very four-dimensional, this time the collection is more peaceful and light but without changing the feeling of the label,” said designer Diana Opsund Bay after annhagen’s third show at CFW. With a design identity as strong as annhagen’s big changes can seem difficult, but Thursday night, at a show with an almost international atmosphere of chaos and guests eager to get in, Opsund managed to take the brand in a slightly new direction without being untrue to her personal style. Like last season the collection was characterised by deconstruction and layering, but in a more toned down way. The models, all looking like medieval warriors, showed strong pieces including asymmetric leather jackets, trousers and skirts, satin tops, knitted cardigans and a fantastic dress resembling a black spider web. Unlike any earlier designs the edge was in cuts and shapes rather than details. From men’s drop-crotch trousers and pleated, high collars to fur jackets in edgy shapes and light chiffon dresses with bead details, the collection was continuous all way through with a floating colour scale from black to grey, burgundy red and dark green, with only two accent entrances in mustard yellow. Even with show styling the clothes still looked just as edgy as the annhagen we know, but taken apart a lot of the items would fit perfectly into a young target group’s wardrobe.

Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric

BRANDING AND IMAGE CONSULTING IDEA AND CONCEPT DEVELOPEMENT CAMPAIGNS AND CATALOGUES FASHION SHOWS AND EVENTS PRINTED SOLUTIONS AND CLIENT PUBLISHING

STYLE/COUNSEL United Kingdom Phone +44 (0)20 7610 0896 www.stylecounsel.com STYLE/COUNSEL Denmark Hoejbro Plads 15 DK-1200 Copenhagen K Phone + 45 3313 0444 Fax + 45 3313 0844 style@stylecounsel.com www.stylecounsel.com

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shows

VAGABOND Everyday shoeshine Words Kathrine Houe Photo Sacha Maric

Metallic coloured stilettos, military boots, classics men’s shoes, footwear with tie-dye eﬀect and ﬂat women’s boots with a happy-hippie Sixties inspiration were on display at the Vagabond show Thursday morning at Karrierebar. Bearing in mind that Vagabond, in their own words, is a Swedish shoe brand making everyday fashion shoes for everyday use, the fashion expectations weren’t too high and the alright styling of the Vagabond shoes in combination with the clothes from unknown labels was therefore quite a surprise.

PUREHEART —Lara’s theme The tabloid papers got what they came for at Pureheart when baroness Caroline Fleming closed the show dressed as a bride to the sound of John Lennon’s Imagine. But there was also eye candy for the fashion crowd since the main theme was silk dresses and fur hats – fit for Dr Zivago’s Lara. The dresses, nicely fitted, came in all hemlines and waistlines, in a variety of colours. Some of the looks were classically colour coordinated in eggshell and black, others with a newfound - and very welcome- humorous twist showing Henriette Zobel at ease with her theme. The models, all really lovely real women with plaits around the head, were self confident, never in a hurry and with spines as straight as the red fabric roses laid out in a line on the seats. Words Anne Absalonsen Photo Sacha Maric

WWW.BRUUNSBAZAAR.COM

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shows

MADS NØRGAARD —The Copenhagen Experience Words Anne Absalonsen Photo Noam Griegst

Everything is possible in film - even smoking. The soulful, hazy and atmospheric Freja, complete with cigarette in hand, in search for her significant other – captured by supermodel Eddie and finally found by Freja. The film presented the inspiration and moods for Mads Nørgaard’s AW 08 collection, and photographer Noam Griegst spoiled viewers in search for a more subtle, undergroundish CPH feeling, similar to the feeling in Reconstruction, Christoffer Boe’s Caméra d’Or-winning movie, as if it was its little sister. The film was shot in the very same BOSCH-building where it was presented last night and the fact that even the bartenders were identical added an extra dimension to the mood. This is fashion at its best – involving, inspiriting and empowering for the audience. As in the previous film the song Copenhagen was remixed and produced by Anders Trentemøller, co-produced by Djuna Barnes and the German band Rework did vocals. Slightly melancholic and very, very beautiful. www.thecopenhagenexperience.dk

shoes PRADA 9% LLOYD 4,5% FAUSTO SANTINI 4,5% SCHMOOVE 4,5% LOEWE 4,5% NO BRAND 4,5% VANS 18% BRUNO & JOEL 9% MARC JACOBS 4,5% SWEAR 4,5% CONVERSE ALL STARS 4,5% LOGO 69 4,5% PAUL SMITH 4,5% HELMUT LANG 4,5% TRICKERS BY JOURNAL STANDARD 4,5% HUGO BOSS 4,5% CLARKS ORIGINALS 4,5% socks NO BRAND 36% PUMA 4,5% ARMANI 4,5% H&M 9% MARKS&SPENCER 4,5% PAUL SMITH 4,5% FALKE 4,5% HUDSON 4,5% trousers / skirts LEVI’S VINTAGE 501 4,5% WOOD WOOD 4,5% MISS SIXTY 4,5% ACNE 40,5% DIESEL 4,5% CHEAP MONDAY 4,5% SPORTMAX 4,5% H&M 4,5% LEVIS 13,5% LEE 4,5% BUZZ RICKSON’S 4,5% JOE’S 4,5% underwear PAUL SMITH 4,5% MARATHON 4,5% SCHIESSER 13,5% H&M 9% NO BRAND 4,5% POLO RALPH LAUREN 4,5% CALVIN KLEIN 4,5% MARC JACOBS 4,5% DAY 4,5% BJØRN BORG 4,5% AUBADE 4,5% MARIE JO 4,5% OSCALITO 4,5% CLAUDIO 4,5% SLOGGI 4,5% ZARA 4,5% COWBOY STYLE 4,5% FRUIT OF THE LOOM 4,5% LA PERLA 4,5% MAGS’ BY MAGASIN 4,5% WOLFORD 4,5% CALIDA 4,5% belt MARGIELA 4,5% LEVIS 4,5% GRAAE DESIGN 4,5% ACNE 4,5% LINDEBERG 4,5% FRESH JIVE 4,5% CARHARTT 4,5% NO BRAND 4,5% VINTAGE 9% KIRSTEN SCHJØNNING 4,5% t-shirt / top HUSSEIN CHALAYAN 4,5% JAQUES BY SCHIESSER 4,5% MISS SIXTY 4,5% BENETTON 4,5% H&M 13,5%, E-TYPES 4,5% VANESSA BRUNO 4,5% COMME DES GARCONS 4,5% MADS NØRGAARD COPENHAGEN 4,5% DAY 4,5% MR. BINGO 4,5% BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 4,5% INDEPENDENT 4,5% SISTERS POINT 4,5% ACNE 4,5% LEVI’S VINTAGE 4,5% HANES 4,5% LACOSTE 4,5% shirt / blouse DRIES VAN NOTEN 4,5% YIIP 4,5% FILIPPA K 9% CLUB MONACO 4,5% GANT 4,5% BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 4,5% A.P.C 4,5% SAMSØE 4,5% NIKE 4,5% PATRIZIA PEPE 4,5% VADUMSRUM 4,5% DEXTER WONG 4,5% jacket CHEAP MONDAY 4,5% YIIP 4,5% CARHARTT 4,5% BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN 4,5% A.P.C 4,5% FILIPPA K 4,5% SPORTMAX 4,5% IT’S FASHION DARLING 4,5% AMERICAN APPAREL 9% HOLLIES 4,5% VINTAGE 4,5% TIGER OF SWEDEN 4,5% ACNE 4,5% PUMA SPORT 4,5% HOPE 4,5% LEVI’S VINTAGE 4,5% AERO LEATHER A2 4,5% BURBERRY 4,5% glasses / shades POUL STIG DESIGN 4,5% PRADA 4,5% RAY BAN 9% STÜSSY 4,5% DOLCE & GABBANA 4,5% DIOR 4,5% ÖRGREEN 4,5% RETRO 4,5% GUCCI 4,5% 1930’IES VINTAGE 4,5% OLIVER PEOPLES 4,5% accessories / jewellery WEDDING RING BY FATHER IN LAW 4,5% CARTIER 4,5% HELENA ROHNER 9% MAGNUS ENNA 4,5% GEORG JENSEN 4,5% CPH BODY EXTREMES 4,5% MICHAEL STRÖM 4,5% IPOD 4,5% MISSONI 4,5% NAVAJO RING 4,5% JYTTE KLØVE 4,5% HELLE LØVIG 4,5% CHARLOTTE LYNGGÅRD 4,5% other RENATO ANGI 4,5% EASTPACK 4,5% SONYERICSSON W880I 4,5% FURLA 4,5% GLOBETROTTER 4,5% MAC 4,5% Y-3 4,5% MARIMEKKO 4,5% watch LACOSTE 4,5% TAG HEUER 9% OLE MATHIESEN 9% CITIZEN 4,5% DIESEL 4,5%, ROSENDAHL 4,5% OMEGA 4,5% GEORG JENSEN 4,5% perfume NATURA 4,5% CHANEL 4,5% DIOR 13,5% COMME DES GARCONS 18% CLINIQUE 9% ISSEY MIYAKE 9% CALVIN KLEIN 4,5% DKNY 4,5% PAUL SMITH 4,5% REXONA 4,5% CLEAN ULTIMATE 4,5% ETRO - SANDALO 4,5% MARC JACOBS 13,5% identities, an e-Types project 8 of 9, “Brands worn at e-types february 7, 2008” e–types.com

EDITION 17

BUT IS IT ART?

NEW ISSUE OUT NOW

/23 shows

MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN focusing on fundamentals Words Lene Hald Photo Sacha Maric

munthe plus simonsen has been going through a distinct ﬁnancial development and seem determined to add a new, more graphic touch to their aesthetics. The strong personalities of Naja Munthe and Karen VedelSimonsen are still the driving forces behind the collections and signature fundamentals like ethnic detailing, layered looks and a love for rare handcrafted detailing remained key to their autumn/winter show. However, clean and contemporary styling added a more graphic twist to the traditional munthe plus simonsen universe and the duo managed to fuse seemingly opposites: romanced, classic items were contrasted with edgy, almost S/M inspired styles. Rustic knit pieces matched with tight black leather trousers had a grunge-inspired and contemporary look to them. Other points of interest were the interplay of matte and shine in black dresses with glittery elements or combined with see-through fabric and unique leather jackets with plaited detailing and smock eﬀects.

BRUUNS BAZAAR Romeo, oh Romeo Words Anne Absalonsen Photo Sacha Maric

Concrete balconies fit for a Juliet surrounded the long catwalk at the University of IT, and the room was filled with sounds from this fashion week’s busy music maker, Trentemøller. Spacious, futuristic and just right for the label’s new beginning, this was also the main theme for Bruuns Bazaar, the inspirational big brother of so many other Danish brands, who attended last evening to adore the firstborn. The soft start of knitted milky outfits led to a more intriguing interpretation of the familiar Bruuns Bazaar wide-legged trousers and soft swung dresses and short jackets with tails. A lovely black dress with pleats running from the shoulders and down the back would fit into most women’s wardrobes. Perhaps there was one jersey outfit too many, maybe some of the styles were not that innovative, and maybe the Romeos were quite understated, but it’s a fact that when the winter overcoats hit the shops in July they’ll be sold out by early September. Bruuns Bazaar played it wise and not all that safe with quite appealing yellowish prints on a blue-purple background, and judging by the applause from the 500 plus spectators the overcoats may already be sold out by early August.

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

/24 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

look of the day

WILD THING We have seen hints at Bruuns Bazaar where brows had a warrior definition, and at munthe plus simonsen where eyes were masked with an almost wildlife expression. But nowhere was the new tribal trend as complete as at annhagen, where an otherwise almost theatrical tendency found its natural place in our modern world. “It’s not make-up, it’s more an effect. It’s done with a mix of shine and matte,” Key Make-up Artist Anne Staunsager said backstage and labelled the look ‘Urban Warrior’. The use of shading or contouring – dubbed by experts as ‘the end of Botox’ – is the newest way to shape the face to new and more defined dimensions. Think cheek, chin and bridge of nose! The look was topped with a metallic triangle on the forehead on both men and women, done so delicately that you weren’t sure if it really was make-up or simply a shadow. Together with the braided hairdos it gave a beautifully clean look. If you go wild this season, you should definitely go annhagen.

PLUS OUR AW 2008 KIDS COLLECTION AT CIFF KIDS COPENHAGEN 07.02 - 10.02 2008 STAND H - 013B

LO O K IN hu G

CPH VISION COPENHAGEN 07.02 - 10.02 2008 STAND NR. 37

m FO m el R IS A SE N EK CH EW IN I N EC G K N A D O EW D A U V N T EM SK P EN A P D G LO TU A E YE IL 3 RE ES Y 5

www.hummel.dk COME SEE OUR AW 2008 FASHION COLLECTION AT

DAILY SHOW UPDATES AT

danskdaily.dk

/27 voice of copenhagen

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

danish bacon Thanks to exceptionally good genes Danes not only export the world’s ﬁnest bacon, but some of the best models. During Copenhagen Fashion Week you’ll see some of tomorrow’s model icons in the making. DANSK Daily suggest you keep a keen eye on these new faces. Words Uﬀe Buchard

LASSE PEDERSEN Unique Models

ANNIKA ELFIDE Elite Models

The 16-year-old student and handball trainer was discovered at last year’s national Unique Models’ Modelsearch. The Copenhagen redhead got his ﬁrst catwalk job with none other than Burberry Prorsum where he opened the show at the recent Milan menswear presentations. Oﬀ to a nice start, no?

At the tender age of 15, Annika is already known as the best legs in the industry. Her long pins take up most of her 1.79 meters and the student from Jutland was the deﬁnitive winner of last year’s Elite Model Look. Annika is an avid tennis and golf player and can now add the art of walking to her favourite sports.

NIS STEIN Scoop Models

NILLE MØLLER 1st Option

21-year-old Nis grew up with one of Denmark’s number one model icons, Eddie Klint. The Copenhagen football player has already shown his pretty face on the runways at Etro and Ann Demeulemeester, but this is his ﬁrst season at the Copenhagen shows.

With her super tall frame and extremely interesting face it is rather likely that 15-year-old Nille from Jutland’s ﬁrst runway season won’t be her last. Huge interest already surrounds Nille from power houses like Calvin Klein and Prada. Could Nille be the epitome of future beauty?

STEPHAN HAURHOLM 1st Option

SOFIE SCHWENSEN Scoop Models

After dropping out of upper secondary school 16-year-old moped fan Stephan is now going all out for a fulltime modelling career. So far it deﬁnitely seems to be happening. The Copenhagen boy has just returned from the Paris menswear shows, where he appeared at Lanvin.

16-year-old Soﬁe is Scoop Models’ exciting new hope and this summer she’ll swap boarding school for a fulltime modelling job. Prada’s master scout Russell Marsh has already honed in on the freckled Dane who is still an unwritten page on the international catwalks.

ANNA LUNDGAARD Unique Models

SIMON LUND 2PM

Blonde Anna from Århus won the Danish TV show Topmodel back in 2006. Although the program makes for excellent entertainment it rarely spells the beginning of a stellar career. But 20-year-old late bloomer Anna is in the midst of disproving this with an impressive parade of catwalks gigs at the top houses during this week’s shows.

Following an impressive main editorial in Danish fashion magazine Cover all fashion eyes are on 21-year-old Copenhagen boy Simon. If he looks half as good on the runway this week as he does in pictures, there’ll be serious reason for all the Simon hype.

/28 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

designer profile

blank

AMBITION

Words Kathrine Houe

Their inspirations always change, but Frederik Blank and Åse Göransson’s three word mantra stays the same: harsh, mixed and tailored. Harsh, because they use a lot of dark, evil colours. Mixed, because they always mix up inspirations, traditions and looks. And tailored, because they aim for the quality of traditional tailoring in their clothes. The couple, both in their early thirties, not only work together but are also romantically involved. They met shortly before enrolling at the Swedish design school Beckman’s School of Design in Stockholm in 1997. Even before their graduation in 2000 they had already formed the foundations of their own company. “I’m born to a family of entrepreneurs, so the choice to start on our own came only natural to me. In 1999 we formed a freelance design company and in 2000 we started Blank,” explains Åse Göransson when asked about the beginnings of the label. Their freelance work took up a lot of time, and at one point Frederik Blank and Åse Göransson seemed more involved with their daytime job at Tiger of Sweden than with their own label. In 2004 they earned recognition from Swedish Elle when the magazine presented Blank with the Designer of the Year Award for “demonstrating how the art of classical tailoring can be developed in a fascinating manner.” But despite the recognition, their jobs at Tiger made it diﬃcult for the duo to put enough energy into Blank. Consequently, they decided to focus on their own label. Stockholm fashion week in February 2007 saw their ﬁrst independent fashion show, which debuted the label’s women’s and men’s collections. Later that year their collaboration with Tiger of Sweden came to a close. This meant a return to their own and very personal way of

Conceptualism over commercialism. Frederik Blank & Åse Göransson left Tiger of Sweden to devote themselves to their independent label Blank. working. “When we start working on new stuff, we always begin with a strong conceptual idea that we follow like slaves through the whole work process,” says Åse Göransson. The word concept is of the greatest importance to Frederik Blank and Åse Göransson. The Swedish designers aren’t fond of the word fashion in relation to their work. “To us fashion means something stressful and boring. We don’t like that word, as it seems misused and abused. Rather, we believe in conceptuality and creativity. Creativity means everything for us. It’s all we know – it’s life.” Blank is grounded in honesty and a low-key dry style spiced with subtle wit. The label is an empty rectangle without any words. The duo tends to find inspiration in the harsh and dark sides of life. The autumn/winter 2007 collection titled From Russia with Love featured old Russian military uniforms and warm clothes while spring/summer 2008 finds its defining ideas in Wong Kar Wai’s dark, moody and rainy Hong Kong love story In the mood for Love. Today Blank is mostly known in Sweden. In August 2007 the duo received further recognition for their work when they won the Swedish magazine Café’s fashion award. But Frederik Blank and Åse Göransson are both aware that Sweden isn’t a big enough market for their growing company. Åse comments: “Right now, we see Blank in Sweden, but our goal is to be an international label.”

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/30 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

focus

the DWORD What are the lasting design ingredients of Danish fashion today? What characterises the design qualities of contemporary Danish fashion? Fashion historian Marie Riegels Melchior talks to four key fashion proﬁles: a teacher, a designer, a retail expert and an international trend analyst. Words Marie Riegels Melchior illustrations Jens Laugesen

QUOTES FROM 40 YEARS OF DANISH FASHION DESIGN “French designers may scream “chic”, but function is the watchword of the Scandinavians. They do manage to give it a lively cast.” (New York Times, September 20, 1969) “Smouldering sensuality is a main thread in Danish fashion design. A kind of cool poetry, which can be twisted and turned, dressed up or down – into party or practical. “Classical bohemian” is a typical Danish design expression where light embroidery (made in India) is a Danish speciality, being exceptionally cleverly used on classic cuts as well as avant-garde styles in both everyday clothes as well as in evening wear.” (Fashion editor Lotte Freddie for Denmark Fashion Newsletter, August 2005).

DANISH FASHION DESIGN EDUCATORS Denmark’s Design School www.dkds.dk Designskolen Kolding www.designskolenkolding.dk Scandinavia Academy of International Fashion and Design www. magrethe-skolen.dk BEC-design www.bec-design.dk TEKO www.teko.dk

Marie Riegels Melchior is a PhD-student at Denmark’s Design School and the Danish Museum of Art & Design, questioning the history and identity of Danish fashion.

/31 focus

Exports ﬁgures are rising and Danish fashion culture is picking up its speed to match the expectations of the industry’s cultural intermediaries. Fashion studios and small shops are popping up among established Copenhagen ﬂagship stores, setting the stage for unique shopping and innovative sartorial behaviour. Rumour has it it’s all because of the D-word. In November 2007 the fashion design consciousness came to an all-time high when the prestigious Danish Design Council’s Annual Award, which has previously celebrated Danish industrial design, went to someone in fashion. Jørgen Nørgaard, owner of Nørgaard paa Strøget and the man behind the legendary long sleeved T-shirt Rip 101, received the award for his life-long contribution to Danish fashion. The epigrammatic 100% cotton T-shirt, made in Denmark since 1967, is based on the minimalist design recipe of 50% function added to 50% seduction.

working for Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Alexander McQueen and Giorgio Armani Privé. Which design trends prevail with the fashion students in your department? “Instead of adding volume to a basic jacket by extending the use of fabric and creating a longer shoulder line, one of my students has used the outer shape of an elephant’s body as basis for a voluminous look. In that way a jacket is not exactly a jacket, but may look like and function as one. Although the work of my students is very conceptual and experimental, functionality and wearability are important in their work. Typically, their design process uses research to try to understand their subject before jumping headﬁrst into creativity.”

But, according to four diﬀerent fashion proﬁles each with their own key knowledge of Danish fashion and the industry, there is so much more to Danish design.

What do you stress as important for producing ﬁrst-rate fashion design? “At the fashion department we are very aware of teaching our students not to tell too many stories with one piece. They shouldn’t depict every cut, detail or embellishment they have in mind in one garment. The Belgian fashion students are good at that. We, teachers and students, focus on the balance between less and more.”

Ann Merete Ohrt, Head of Fashion Department at Denmark’s Design School, is proud to have former students who are now

Stine Goya, fashion designer of her eponymous label Stine Goya. In February 2007, Goya launched her ﬁrst collection at CPH Vision

to positive reviews by the Danish fashion media. What characterises your design? “Distinctive elements in my work are detailing and the use of colourful and printed fabrics. I focus on creating a personal style by experimenting with a sculptural silhouette. The look often ends up being understated luxury and femininity.” You trained in London at Central Saint Martins. How has this aﬀected your design sensibility, often said to radiate a Scandinavian touch? “Being educated abroad provides an international perspective on fashion, which is an advantage when you have to make a living out of exporting your work. I grew up with a clean, Scandinavian understanding of design, which I took with me to Central Saint Martins. The international perspective has made my designs more contrasting and nuanced.” Natalia Sigvardt, commercial manager at department store ILLUM in Copenhagen. ILLUM puts a high emphasis on showcasing Scandinavian fashion. What is signiﬁcant about Danish fashion design? ”Many Danish fashion designers are daring and good at expressing their independent, everything-goes style. Within recent years Danish fashion design has developed a

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

strong profile both nationally and internationally, like Bruuns Bazaar with their simple but cool style, quality and burnt colours. In 1999, they were among the first Danish fashion brands to show on the catwalk in Paris. And Day Birger et Mikkelsen and their signature luxury-hippie style were nominated among the best selling brands in the UK. From your work as commercial manager, what is good design quality to a fashion brand? “Rule number one is that the brand has a sizable collection, a retail concept and is able to deliver new styles a couple of times within one season, so the customers will get inspired every time they visit ILLUM. Of course quality and price have to follow each other. Even though ILLUM is known for exclusivity, it should always be possible to buy good design at a reasonable price. We are inclined to look at our bottom line and have to find a balance between how commercial a brand is and what the board of directors expect.” What is important for Danish fashion designers wanting to make it among international competitors? “They have to keep focusing on good quality and fit. They need to constantly stay in tune with what’s in fashion, but at the same time remain true to their own beliefs and design visions. And they have

to recognise that marketing and branding are also part of fashion.” Cay Bond, has worked as trend analyst and Scandinavian agent to Paris-based trend bureau Promostyl for 25 years. What are the characteristics of Danish fashion design today? “What I ﬁnd very positive is the ‘self-government’ in Danish fashion. The Danish fashion designers are independent enough in their creative enterprises not to feel the need to copy internationally acclaimed fashion designers. Danish fashion, particularly womenswear, is wearable and has a touch of female sensibility. Here I am thinking of the work of Frederikke Hviid (Whiite), Malene Birger (By Malene Birger), Baum und Pferdgarten, Bruuns Bazaar and Elise Gug.” What are the qualities of Danish fashion design? “Danish fashion designers are good at producing playful and experimenting designs. This goes back to the Danish fashion design education, where students are provided with space for freedom and creativity.”

/32 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

on the street

— seen at BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN —Lars Pedersen, assisting fashion editor of VS Magazine Where do you think Danish fashion is in 5 years? I think it’ll be where it is now, only larger and with even more export. What are your must-sees this week? Peter Jensen, Jens Laugesen and Soulland. How would you deﬁne your style? Ever changing! I guess I’m a style chameleon but I draw a lot of inspiration from my style icon Kokon to Zai. —Sarah Skarum, fashion editor Berlingske Tidene What shows have you liked so far? I love Noir. I love how they manage to make clothes that you can wear and feel beautiful in, yet have a good consciousness. I also loved Rützou. She’s really developed since her last collection. What do you like about Baum und Pferdgarten? I like their feminine expression. It’s so very wearable, funny and classic. Wearing Baum und Pferdgarten really puts a smile on your face. —Karina Ørnstedt, fashion manager at Noise PR How did you like the show? It was so beautiful. The show was so visual. It’s amazing that they manage to accomplish that every single time. The venue is so amazing. I think the collection was simpler than their previous ones. What are you looking forward to? I have a lot of expectations for Vadumsrum and Best Behaviour.

Jette Romvig, Creative manager at Magasin department store What do you think of the show? It was a really nice collection. It’s less colorful than expected. They’ve had a very strong Danish feeling before, but with this collection they’re becoming more international. I guess it’s not a surprise that they’re moving in that direction but it’s absolutely a statement. I expected to see funnier details but I can see why they’re becoming so big in countries like Japan. What trends have you spotted? Nothing that surprises me, really, but I do see a more international feeling in all the collections with sharper lines. Where do you think Danish fashion will be in 5 years? I think they’ll be even more professional and more international. What’s your wish for the Danish fashion designers? Keep the underground going and support each other. What are your fashion tips for fall? Keep it simple, speciﬁc and dramatic silhouettes and wear splashes of strong colours. —Helga Olafsdottir, Icelandic designer What distinguishes Danish fashion from Icelandic fashion? In Denmark it’s okay to fall into a crowd whereas in Iceland you really want to stand out, you want to be someone and dress as crazy as possible. It could be connected to the fact that the island is so isolated and small, maybe it’s even the climate? Why do you attend Copenhagen fashion week? It’s much nicer than most fashion weeks. It’s not that hectic…much like the Danish people…but it still has an international feeling.

Words / Photo www.copenhagenstreetstyle.dk

/34 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

perspective

1980s —Danish fashion

COUTURIER vs. ANARCHY

/35 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

Is that a power shoulder and Japanese poverty chic we see? —Yes, it’s the Eighties. Words Susanne Madsen

Eighties fashion was all about haute dressmaking, grand couturiers and the birth of the big shouldered, high powered designer label. And largely, Denmark was no different. The country’s claim to couture fame was Erik Mortensen, Pierre Balmain’s right hand for years and appointed successor at Balmain’s death in 1982. Mortensen worked his magic with taffeta bows, Chantilly lace and lavish puffball skirts, whipped up into a delicious frenzy of wasp waists and fierce shoulders. King of the striking, dramatic evening dress, he quickly made his way into Danish museums, curating several exhibitions of his confident work. Another dressmaker extraordinaire was the skilled Jørgen Bender, a favourite with the royal family for wedding dresses and a firm devotee of a long train and a sweeping skirt. But under the glittering surface of Monsieur Erik Mortensen’s Golden Thimble awards and international recognition a new generation of radically different avant-garde designers was making its way up. While Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto rocked the fashion world with their black collections of Poverty Chic, disarray and dissymmetry, similar forces were at work in Denmark. Inspired by the Japanese designers, but also acting independently of them, Ivan Grundahl founded his now legendary label in 1982, conjuring up black biker leather juxtaposed with swathed feminine fabrics. And four years later Bitte Kai Rand set up shop as well, exploring related themes of volume and draping. Following the birth of the punk revolution in the Seventies, fronted in London by Vivienne Westwood and her Seditionaries boutique on King’s Road, the Eighties had a certain anti-

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fashion attitude. In Denmark that became evident in a wealth of cool second hand stores, the radical opposites of all the nice, conservative, lady-like designer shops. In Copenhagen, the infamous Latin Quarter shop Roger sold second hand Levi’s and army boots, while Junk de Luxe in Århus offered cool customised pieces. DANSK Daily’s very own editor-in-chief Anne Absalonsen ran Sgt. Peppers in Odense and says of the anarchic fashion moment: “We sold old home-dyed Levi’s, got young boys in to graffiti the walls and everyone was smoking in the store.” Business-wise, however, the Danish fashion industry was having a bit of a slow moment, 1987 stock market crash aside. The ‘Buy Danish’ campaign of the 1970s hadn’t really worked – but how could it really, when it was up against international heavyweights like Karl Lagerfeld and Gianni Versace in an increasingly label-obsessed world? PhD student Marie Riegels Melchior, who specialises in the structure and nature of Danish fashion, comments: “In the Eighties, the Danish garment industry was largely defined by a sense of disquiet. A new generation of slightly wilder fashion designers started to emerge and the Copenhagen Fashion Group was formed to support those who went against mainstream fashion. At the same time the Danish garment industry was facing tough decisions regarding outsourcing, which lead to further disruption.” But these unsettling shifts in structure would eventually set the scene for the take-no-prisoners, full-steam-ahead Danish fashion decade that was to be the Nineties.

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/36 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

it items

/37 write up shows

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK it items Stay in touch Hurrying from show to show and party to party, you’ll want to stay updated with friends and colleagues on the hottest events. The Nokia 8800 Arte mobile phone will have you texting and phoning in style. The sleek telephone features a soundtrack produced by the legendary producers Kruder & Dorfmeister and the latest mobile communication technology. www.nokia.com

Mask it! After a couple of days of shows and late night partying, your face will find it difficult to hide the signs of champagne, cigarettes and lack of sleep. So treat yourself with a Cellular Hydralift Firming Mask from La Prairie. Soybean protein and caffeine are among the ingredients which help improve the appearance of your skin’s firmness and elasticity. Apply to face and neck, leave on for five minutes and remove with lukewarm water. www.laprairie.com

Chloé does Chloé Fashionable Chloé Sevigny, model Anja Rubik and actress Clemence Poesy front the campaign for the latest Chloé perfume, a series of black and white photos shot by Inez Von Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The scent is warm, playful and seductive with hints of rose, peony and lychee – and will keep you smelling fresh for a whole day. www.chloe.com

Slick and suave With the Aveda Pure-Formance Pomade men can breathe easy knowing that their hair will stay styled to perfection, thanks to the built-in style control agent which provides strong hold. The aroma is rich and spicy with organic essential oils of spearmint and lavender. www.aveda.com

Plump lips Most women dream of having beautiful sensuous lips. With Helena Rubinstein’s Collagenist Lip Zoom we are one step closer to achieving full lips. So if you are going for the ultimate Brigitte Bardot look this fashion week, go for this lip balm with plumping and anti-wrinkle eﬀect. www.helenarubinstein.com

Snap! Fashion week leaves little time for pampering and styling and quick ﬁxes are the way to go. Redken Extreme Anti-Snap is a treatment for distressed hair, which fortiﬁes the damaged areas of the hair and helps reduce breakage. The genius part is that it is a leave-in treatment, so there’s no waiting 10 minutes to rinse. www.redken.com

FREDERIK LINDSTRØM PHOTOGRAPHY WWW.FREDERIKLINDSTROM.COM INFO@FREDERIKLINDSTROM.COM

BLIV MEDLEM AF

danish fashion institute Danmark har en unik mulighed for at positionere sig selv som et af verdens førende kraftcentre for mode. Alt peger på, at hvis vi som nation fortsat kan dygtiggøre os indenfor for dette fag, hvis vi formår at forbedre betingelserne for vækst og hvis vi samarbejder omkring de markedsføringsmæssige muligheder der ligger forude; at vi kan være med blandt de førende i verden og dermed skabe mere vækst og innovation i branchen. Det er Danish Fashion Institute’s primære formål at agere netværksfacilitator for den danske modebranche, og herigennem styrke branchen således, at dansk mode bliver en anerkendt kompetenceklynge på globalt plan. Danish Fashion Institute er det organ, der kan samle branchen, promovere, profilere og stimulere innovationen i dansk mode, både nationalt og internationalt. Et medlemskab af Danish Fashion Institute betyder, at din virksomhed er med til at bidrage aktivt til visionen, men det betyder også, at din virksomhed får del i den platform, som DAFI har skabt omkring COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK® samt i de aktiviteter, netværk og videndeling, som netværket også tilbyder. Medlemskab koster 15.000 kr. pr. år På www.danishfashioninstitute.dk findes tilmeldingsblanketten ”Jeg tror på, at vi er stærkest, når vi står sammen, og DAFI er for mig det mulige forum for dette samarbejde. Jeg og mit firma er glade for at være medlem, og opfordrer alle andre til at melde sig ind og give sit bidrag, både kritisk og begejstret. For DAFI bliver ikke bedre end vi er med til at gøre det.” Mads Nørgaard, MADS NØRGAARD ”DAFI tænker internationalt. Og det, synes jeg, er meget vigtigt for dansk design...DAFI tager stadig sine første skridt på mange niveauer, men jeg er sikker på, at DAFI vil kunne løfte dansk design på længere sigt både herhjemme og udenfor landets grænser, hvilket er vores alles fortjeneste og mål. DAFI er et frisk pust til modebranchen, og har nye måder at se muligheder på.” Malene Birger, BY MALENE BIRGER ”DAFi har på mange måder manifisteret sin styrke og format. Bl.a. pga Copenhagen Fashion Week, som fundament for salg og eksport. Men også i det daglige, hvor viljen til samarbejde på tværs af branchen er blevet evident. Sammen kan vi alt!” Karen Simonsen, MUNTHE PLUS SIMONSEN ”Hvis dansk mode på lang sigt skal slå sig fast internationalt – og dermed nå et niveau højere – er det nødvendigt med samarbejde, kommunikation og gensidig videndeling mellem branchens mange aktører. Det er en opgave, DAFI allerede er nået rigtig langt med.” Uffe Buchard, STYLE COUNSEL ”IC Companys A/S anser det for væsentligt for dansk modes fremtid og fremdrift, at vi samarbejder på tværs af branchen. Vi ser derfor DAFI som en oplagt mulighed for at styrke de indbyrdes relationer og for at styrke dansk mode i et internationalt perspektiv. Det er vigtigt, at vi står samlet som branche overfor de fremtidige udfordringer. Dansk mode har uendeligt meget positivt at bidrage med og DAFI er en væsentlig mulighed for at få det positive budskab formidlet til omverdenen.” Jesper Mathiesen, IC COMPANYS ”Vi skal tiltrække langt flere internationale indkøbere og pressefolk til modeugen og vi skal gøre modeugen endnu mere interessant. DAFI har gennem de sidste 2 år skabt en platform, som har medvirket til, at ”Copenhagen Fashion Week” er blevet en succes. Kun gennem opbakning til DAFI og samarbejde interesseorganisationerne imellem kan vi nå dette mål! Forestil jer en hjemmebanefordel for hele den skandinaviske modebranche!” Teis Bruun, BRUUNS BAZAAR

/39 talent

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

hairy! He grew up around scissors and golden locks, spending a lot of time in his mother’s perm-scented hair parlour. No wonder Cim Mahony turned brush and comb into both a successful career and a lifestyle. Vogue, Elle, i-D and 10. Roberto Cavalli, Michael Kors and Donna Karan. Über-photographers Mert & Marcus. And practically every supermodel on the planet including Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Gisele Bündchen. Oh yes, Mr. Mahony has been there, done that, and much, much more. But one of his most loyal clients so far has been the American singer/songwriter Tori Amos. ”I don’t really do celebrities, but with Tori it’s different. I’ve worked with her for almost ten years now, and I’ve become deeply involved in the whole process of making videos, photos and album covers. I listen to the demos and help figure out what kind of image we wish to create for the album. Besides being a brilliant musician, she’s also very clever and conceptual. The same goes for many of the photographers I work with: as your work relationship matures, you get more involved in the entire process,” Mahony explains. Danish Mahony was only 19 and still an apprentice when he won the World Youth Hairdressing Championship. Soon after finishing his training, he decided to relocate to London, the city he has called his second home for the past twelve years, but he is soon to make a move for New York. When we call him, he is in South Africa, working on an advertising project for a US department store. To Mahony, crisscrossing the globe is everyday business. “I spend approximately 200 days a year travelling, so my suitcase is always right by the door, even when I’m on vacation. People sometimes ask me how long I can keep on doing this, but I’m pretty sure I’ll be fine with it for many years to come. It also gives you a broader perspective on things and a higher tolerance level. And travelling is the primary source of inspiration for my creative work. You know, I’ve never had a day when I’ve regretted my choice of career.”

Words Rasmus Folehave Hansen

FALL 2008

WWW.NAJALAUF.DK 路 PH HONE E: +4 45 7025 1325 路 CP PH VISION COPENHAGEN STAND 94

/41 calender

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEKEND Calendar Friday —february 9 10.00 – 18.00 DAVID ANDERSEN Couture exhibition Royal Copenhagen, Amagertorv 6, Copenhagen

10.00 – 21.00 HOTEL SKT. PETRI Fashion café Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen

10.00 – 18.00 GLITTER Amagertorv 20, Købmagergade 55, Copenhagen —75 % discount on marked items

11.00 – 20.00 COPENHAGEN UNFAIR Copenhagen Skatepark, Enghavevej 80, Copenhagen —Registration at entrance —Entrance fee. DKK 30

10.00 – 15.00 COTTONFIELD FEMALE Roadshow Halmtorvet, Copenhagen —Win prizes at the Cottonﬁeld Female Roadshow in the truck on Halmtorvet

12.00 – 12.30 PERSONAL SHOPPER Magasin Kgs. Nytorv —Copenhagen Magasin —Lyngby Magasin —Århus —Personal shoppers present the trends for SS08

13.00 – 14.00 Win invitations for STEINUNN Fashion show Magasin Designlab, Rådhuspladsen, Copenhagen —Enter contest for tickets to Steinunn fashion show at Copenhagen Fashion Week Lounge in Magasin, Kgs. Nytorv or at www.magasin.dk

14.30 – 18.30 AQUA D’OR Casting Copenhagen Fashion Week Lounge on 2nd Floor of Magasin Kongens Nytorv 13, Copenhagen —Casting for naturally beautiful girls for TV show on TV3

14.30 – 18.30 L’ORÉAL PARIS Makeover L’Oréal at the ground level of Magasin Kgs. Nytorv, Copenhagen

15.00 – 22.00 COTTONFIELD FEMALE Roadshow Halmtorvet, Copenhagen —Win prizes at the Cottonﬁeld Female Roadshow in the truck on Kgs. Nytorv

18.00 – 19.00 DESIGNERS NEST Fashion show Magasin Design Lab, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V —Get your invitation in the Copenhagen Fashion Week Lounge on the 2nd ﬂoor in Magasin, Kgs. Nytorv (limited amount of invitations)

20.30 – 00.30 SHOWROOM8 Fashion show and Afterparty Lille Vega, Enghavevej 40, Copenhagen —Show featuring Em Fau, FROKS, Frost Birgens, h.u.g.s by vonryba, Hooha & kottpoulsen followed by an afterpary

21.00 – 04.00 SOUNDVENUE MAGAZINE Party Flæsketorvet 94, Kødbyen, Copenhagen

22.00 – 23.00 Win invitations to SELECTED Fashion show City Hall, Rådhuspladsen, Copenhagen —Visit your local Selected store to enter contest to win invitations to the Selected fashion show and a stay at the fashionable Front Hotel

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

/42 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

eye spy

Jin Shu FREELANCE FASHION JOURNALIST for Chinese publications such as Cosmopolitan China, Fashion Weekly and Milk —From an international perspective how do you think Danish fashion has positioned itself on the international fashion scene? Copenhagen Fashion Week is the most interesting expanding fashion event. Even though it doesn’t carry mainstream fashion brands, it shines in its own way. CFW doesn’t just support local designers, but also oﬀers a touch of international ﬂavour. The Danish labels have attracted international fashion industry attention and several are recognised by the global market, such as Jens Laugesen and Noa Noa. CFW also provides opportunities for newcomers to be noticed. For instance, annhagen’s leather collection already got my attention last season during CFW. —Which Danish designers are most interesting - and why? Annhagen, Designers Remix Collection, Peter Jensen, Jens Laugesen and Day Birger et Mikkelsen. Designers Remix and annhagen are both unique designers originating from Denmark. Peter Jensen and Jens Laugesen are Danish designers, both based abroad, who mix Danish style with

international elements. Day Birger et Mikkelsen adds a peaceful feeling to glamorous design. Another interesting brand is Mads Nørgaard who really knows what the young Danish generation is in to. —How does Danish fashion correspond with the Chinese market? Danish fashion is mostly known for Only, Vero Moda and Jack & Jones, but these labels are mostly designed and produced in China. In my opinion these brands are not the true Danish fashion brands, however, they qualify on the Chinese market. For the real fashion labels that have yet to enter the Chinese market, I believe they will have great potential there as they oﬀer the same unique design and quality as other major international fashion brands. But to succeed in China requires lots of time and brand building. —Copenhagen Fashion Week is now the largest fashion week in Northern Europe. What is your knowledge of Copenhagen Fashion Week?

It is deﬁnitely growing rapidly, and creating more attention by inviting more and more international press. CFW also shows great hospitality from the Danish people. Apart from increasing awareness for Danish fashion, it also promotes Copenhagen tourism by using venue locations such as the City Hall and museums. —What could be done to strengthen Danish fashion’s position internationally? Featuring stories through international media, which include introductions to both the designers and the Danish fashion background. It would also be interesting to see designers from other countries. —Can we expect to see you at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS 09? It would be lovely to attend such a welcoming event and to see the further improvements of Copenhagen Fashion Week and the growth of Danish fashion.

/43 calender

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

SHOW Calendar friday —february 8 10.00 PREEN

16.00 STINE GOYA

21.00 ANDERSEN & LAUTH

The Gallery-Darrol show scene The Danish National Radio Concert Hall Julius Thomsens Gade 1, Frederiksberg By invitation and positive RSVP only

The Darrol Show Scene The Danish National Radio Concert Hall Julius Thomsens Gade 1, Frederiksberg C By invitation only

11.00 BEST BEHAVIOR

17.00 WON HUNDRED

22.00 SELECTED FEMME/HOMME

Stepz Dance Studio, Øster Farimagsgade 16b Copenhagen Ø By invitation only

Carlsberg, Vester Fælledvej 100, Copenhagen V By invitation only

City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only

12.00 BITTE KAI RAND

18.00 DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN

23.00 MARLBORO CLASSICS

City Hall, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V By invitation only

Pakhus 11, Dampfærgevej 2, Copenhagen Ø By invitation only

13.00 STEINUNN

19.00 NOA NOA

Magasin Design Lab, Rådhuspladsen, Copenhagen V By invitation only

1001 Hal, Islands Brygge 89, Copenhagen S By invitation only

14.00 PETER JENSEN

20.00 BY MALENE BIRGER

The Gallery-Darrol show scene, The Danish National Radio Concert Hall, Julius Thomsens Gade 1, Frederiksberg By invitation only

Hal D, Nordatlanten, Strandgade 100, Copenhagen K By invitation only

Magasin Design Lab, Rådhuspladsen, Copenhagen V By invitation only

EVENT friday —february 8 09.00 BESTSELLER Lindencrones Palæ, Bredgade 26, Copenhagen K —Please book in advance

10.00 COTTONFIELD FEMALE Roadshow Open: 10.00 – 15.00 Halmtorvet, Copenhagen V —Open to public

10.00 VS. MAGASINE, CARTIER AND HOTEL SKT. PETRI Present the exhibition: Food vs. Fashion Open: 10.00 – 20.00 Hotel Skt Petri, Krystalgade 22, Copenhagen K —Open to public

11.00 DAVID ANDERSEN Couture exhibition Open: 11.00 – 17.30 Royal Copenhagen, Amagertorv 6, Copenhagen K —Open to public

11.00 DIESEL BLACK GOLD Open: 11.00 – 13.00 Zum Biergarten, Axeltorv 12, 1609 Copenhagen V —By invitation only

15.00 GALLERY Press meeting Open: 15.00 – 15.30 Forum, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg —By invitation only

15.00 DANSK MAGAZINE Launch reception —But is it art? Open: 15.00 – 17.00 Karriere Bar, Flæsketorvet 57-67, Copenhagen V —By invitation only

15.00 COTTONFIELD FEMALE Roadshow Open: 15.00 – 22.00 Kongens Nytorv, Copenhagen K —Open to public

21.00 DARROLL MANNEQUINS, KOPENHAGEN FUR & FIAT DESIGNERS Meet press Open: 21.00 – 23.00 Restaurant Fiat, Kongens Nytorv 18, Copenhagen K. —By special invitation only

21.00 SOUNDVENUE MAGAZINE Party Open: 21.00 – 04.00 Flæsketorvet 94, Copenhagen V

15.30 JENS LAUGESEN AND DARROL MANNEQUINS Present new collection

22.00 THE VOICE AND PA:NUU party at LUUX

Open: 15.00 – 16.30 Forum, Julius Thomsens Plads 1, Frederiksberg —By invitation only

Open: 21.30 – LUUX, Nørregade 41, Copenhagen K

18.00 BESTSELLER Fashion Expo & Sound Open: 18.00 – 21.00 Statens Museum for Kunst, Sølvgade 48-50, Copenhagen K —By invitation only

18.00 SMAC Lounge Open: 18.00 – 22.00 The SMAC tent at Onkel Dannys Plads Halmtorvet 13, Copenhagen V

18.00 DESIGNERS NEST Show Open: 17.30 – 19.00 Magasin Design Lab, Rådhuspladsen 1, Copenhagen V

22.00 SHOWROOM8 Fashion show Open: 20.00 – 02.00 Lille Vega, Enghavevej 40, Copenhagen V —Open to public

24.00 NAUGHTY NASA Presents Dirty Friday Dancing Open: 24.00 – 05.00 Nasa, Boltens Gaard, Gothersgade 8F, Copenhagen K

/44 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

company profile

under one roof

Words Anne Absalonsen

Even though millions of people across the globe dress in Vero Moda, Jack & Jones and all the other brands under Bestseller’s roof, owner and CEO Anders Holch Povlsen is fairly unknown to the public. He seldom talks to the press but here he gives an exclusive interview to DANSK Daily.

The story goes that Bestseller’s founder, Troels Holch Povlsen, asked his oldest son Anders during a family dinner if he would like to take over the company – his lifework, built over the last three decades. This was in the summer 2000 and AHP was only 27 years old. At that time he had already worked 5 years in the warehouse whilst attending his studies, and later in 1996 taken over a small loss-making subsidiary (Vila A/S), which in 2001 became the fastest growing company in Denmark (Winner of Børsen’s Gazelle competition 2001). He accepted his father’s offer and since February 1, 2001 Anders has been the owner and CEO and fronts the 2.000 stores throughout Europe with another 12.000 retailers being supplied worldwide, 15.000 employees and a turnover last year of € 1,397 mil.* “Over the last 33 years we have been able to establish a solid company with healthy growth, not just in financial terms, but more in terms of the people working with our company, and the teams and the organization we have built. Concerning Bestseller’s international expansion, it is a part of our company’s culture. We find that new and different markets are interesting and we are highly motivated to take on the challenges and explore these opportunities. Our growth is not exceptional, but, only in line with the best of our international competitors,” says AHP. If there is a secret to Bestsellers’ constantly growing black figures one of these is perhaps the foresight of Anders’ father Troels to set foot in new markets such as India, China and the Middle East. Seen from your side of the desk, how will these rapidly growing markets influence the way we dress in Europe? “The influence is not that significant yet. The whole industry source the main part of their production from countries like China, India and Bangladesh. Only a small part of the trend input into the product comes from those markets. However, this will increase, as the fashion culture develops and

progresses in these countries. We would want to pick up more inputs and ideas from these places. Just as we today study what’s seen on the streets in Tokyo. We will also see brands and businesses from these countries wanting to compete directly and expand into Europe,” explains AHP. For the first time a Bestseller company shows at CFW. But at the Selected show the designers won’t come out to take a bow. Why is that? “The image of our brands and the value we can give our consumers are what matters. Those are big issues and we increasingly invest throughout the entire value chain to ensure that we are very competitive. The efforts and work that we put into design and product developments are greater than ever before and this has always been a core part of our company.” So after all it’s really all about fashion, about being a good merchant and about targeting the consumers. But what about the man behind it all – what is a good day for you? “A busy day, where I feel that we have made some good and right decisions. A day where I have spent most of my time with the many great people at Bestseller, enjoyed their energy, spirit and passion for our company and what we do,” says Anders, describing his greatest personal achievements so far: “That we in Bestseller have continued to improve and grow our company. That I have been able to live up to the expectations of my mother and father, when they early on showed their belief in me, and not least gain respect from other people, despite being the second generation. And that I some days have managed to live up to my own expectations.” *not including the turnovers in China, where Besteseller as one of the fist Danish companies opened shops 10 years ago. Today Bestseller has more than 1700 shops, according to press knowledge.

/45 company profile

Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

vila only object pieces name it selected vero moda jack&jones mama·licious outfitters nation

/46 Dansk Daily Copenhagen Fashion Week AW08 — Oﬃcial Newspaper

on the street

— seen at NOIR Words / Photo www.copenhagenstreetstyle.dk

Anders Sølvsten, Pop Magazine Why are you at CFW? I’m here to see what’s happening in Copenhagen fashion. I’m also doing the presentation for Camilla Stærk. What do you think of the shows so far? I saw WHIITE and Elise Gug yesterday and even though the latter is obviously for mature women I adored her knitwear pieces. I’m also really looking forward to the men’s collection from Noir, and of course Wood Wood, Stine Goya, Vibskov, Preen and Peter Jensen. I can never get enough of him. You live in London, what are the main diﬀerences between Copenhagen and London fashionwise? Denmark is a lot safer. There are a lot of blacks and greys whereas London has Casette Playa and Henry Holland, two labels that have really managed to capture the spirit of the streets. What distinguishes Copenhagen Fashion Week? It’s big but it’s still local and I mean that in the best sense of the word. Everybody here knows each other and it’s such a good vibe. You feel more a part of it than in London and Paris. How would you describe Danish fashion and where do you see it heading?

I think it’s deﬁnitely on the rise. You have a lot of talent who are making names of themselves in the world, a lot of young creative people who mean business. Copenhagen really is ahead of its neighbouring capitals.

think she’s better than ever. She sticks to the same silhouette and her principals but still manages to renew herself. She’s the kind of designer who doesn’t like to show oﬀ but still manages to do amazing collections.

What are you looking forward to this week?

Jewel Leng, Harpers Bazaar China

Who are you looking forward to see this week?

What are the main diﬀerences between Danish and German fashion?

I’m going to see Baum und Pferdgarten, Ann Hagen, Wood Wood and Stine Goya and I’m very excited about those shows.

collection? I’d say it’s very Balenciagainﬂuenced. The mixture is amazing and the lines are very clean. Are you going to see any other shows?

Why are you at CFW? I’m here to spot trends and to see all the amazing Danish designers. I’m really looking forward to Peter Jensen and the other young designers like Henrik Vibskov and Stine Goya.

My must-see this week is Noir. I’m so excited to see what they’ve done. They exude attitude and intelligence. It really is fashion with substance and I think we’ll see more of that in the future. It’s what consumers are looking for.

Danish fashion is more trendy, more design-driven and individual. I love the way Danish designers play with colour and proportions at the same time.

I’m going to see most of the shows but the ones I look forward to the most are probably Peter Jensen, Henrik Vibskov and especially annhagen. I love her clean and sharp lines. Where do you think Danish fashion is headed?

Karolina Isomaki, Cover magazine What do you think of CFW so far? I saw Rützou and Bibi Ghost Wednesday and I think it was fantastic. Even though it was her first collection Bibi Ghost really proved her talent. The design is so cool. I love the structures and the cuts of her pieces - it’s so very special. What interests you about Danish fashion? I love how all the Danish designers have their own unique style. I love the character. It’s something totally different from China, even though we’re very influenced by Europe. Danish designers go by feeling more than conventions. It’s all very creative and original.

How would you describe Denmark as a fashion nation? I’d say conﬁdent, easy-going and a reﬂection of society. I love the fact that Denmark has prominent designers within haute couture as well as streetwear. Where do you think Danish fashion is headed? Danish fashion is more international than it’s ever been before and I think that will continue. But of course its success depends on economics and the will to invest. Silke Emig, Textil Wirtschaft What did you think of the Noir show?

Castenskijold What do you think of the shows so far? I saw Rützou Wednesday and I

I liked it a lot. Their men’s collection is great. I think Noir’s success will just continue. I’m absolutely thrilled about this collection.

What do you think of the Noir show? It was fantastic. Their men’s collection is so amazing. Where do you see Danish fashion in ﬁve years? I don’t know where it’ll be but I know I’m hoping that we have more brands like Noir. There’s a growing need and demand for brands that make clothes with substance. At CFW there’s almost only very commercial brands and I hope that’ll change as well. What are you looking forward to this week? I’m really looking forward to Preen. It’s interesting that they’re showing here in Copenhagen. Rune Paik, Wonderland magazine How would you describe the Noir-

Danish fashion is very strong at the moment but we’re sort of in a waiting room. I think the new young generation of designers like Vibskov, Goya and the others will continue to develop and grow even bigger. But what will be the next big thing? What’s been your favourite show so far? I loved Bibi Ghost Wednesday. It was such a beautiful combination of art and fashion. That’s what I’m looking forward to see more of in Danish fashion. It is indeed a ﬁne line between that and commercial value. It has to sell otherwise it won’t survive. But I think there’s a demand for it.