Announcing the BEST of West Virginia Winners winter 16
comfortjoy
TAMARACK’S TOP Ten
✚ Winter at WHITE GRASS
✚ Mountain MEDICINE
A divine dessert at the Alpine Ristorante at Snowshoe Mountain Resort.
VOLUME 9
◆
ISSUE 4
Winter 2016 features
64
74
80
Spreading the Nordic Dream
Helping the Healers
The Best of West Virginia Check out WV Living readers’ picks for the 2016 “Best of West Virginia” awards.
NIKKI BOWMAN
Meet Chip Chase, the energetic evangelist who helped bring cross country skiing to the Canaan Valley.
The West Virginia School of Osteopathic Medicine is training primary care doctors for service in the state’s most rural communities.
wvliving.com 5
VOLUME 9
◆
ISSUE 4
49
53
59 discover
36
14 Folks A Bridgeport priest wins big on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire and gives back.
14 Event Start the New Year with one of Zack Orcutt specializes in sweet dreams and flying machines.
artists and artisans with these unique gifts from Tamarack.
brand-new activities for the whole family.
16 Outdoors Calling on Washington to protect
20
the Birthplace of Rivers.
18 Tech A Marshall professor invents an app that’s like Wikipedia-meets-“Pokemon Go.”
19 Sound West Virginia artists pay tribute to
Little Jimmy Dickens.
20 Shop Raines Interiors makes old things new while keeping the vintage vibe.
22 Hangout Nashville musician and producer
Tim O’Brien takes us on a tour of his hometown of Wheeling.
23 Book A new graphic novel details the
colorful story of Daniel Johnston.
taste 28 Maker Matt Welsch, founder of Wheeling’s “Vagabond Kitchen,” talks about his rambling ways and new restaurant.
31 Libations Trout’s Hill Coffee in Wayne
serves up coffee with a side of community service.
Vermont—West Virginia has the maple syrup your pancakes crave
33 Restaurant Alpine Ristorante at
Snowshoe Mountain Resort offers Tuscan favorites in a cozy setting.
up unique scents for special gifts.
fashioned preserves with a modern twist.
24 Living Loves A collection of surefire gifts
36 This Cabbage may or may not bring you
for any occassion and any recipient.
6 wvl • winter 2016
53 At Home Take a tour of the only
freestanding early Morgan home left in the Monongahela River valley.
59 Local Buckhannon’s micro-theater is
serving as the blueprint for another indie movie house in Charleston.
in every issue 8 Editor’s Letter 10 Letters to the Editor
32 Local Flavor Forget Canada or
23 This ManMade Candles of Charleston cooks 35 Vittles Parkersburg’s In a Jam makes old-
comfortable lodging and a “doily-free environment” in Harpers Ferry.
49 Artfully Celebrate West Virginia’s best
16 Family Fun Charleston’s Clay Center offers
of Kara Dense, executive director of the Greenbrier Convention and Visitors Bureau.
an old American craft into a thoroughly modern art form.
15 Artist Ceramicist and metalworker
17 Queen for a Day The royal decrees
42 Creatively Rug hookers reimagine 47 Away Stonehouse B&B provides
West Virginia’s weirdest traditions.
live
good luck. But it’s definitely tasty.
ON THE COVER Alpine Ristorante at Snowshoe Mountain Resort specializes in Tuscan-inspired entrées and desserts. Photo by Carla Witt Ford
Announcing the BEST of West Virginia Winners winter 16
comfortjoy
TAMARACK’S TOP Ten
✚ Winter at WHITE GRASS
✚ Mountain MEDICINE
A divine dessert at the Alpine Ristorante at Snowshoe Mountain Resort.
editor’s letter Adventure Resort, sledding at Blackwater State Park with former employee Katie Hanlon, sampling Smooth Ambler with owner TAG Galyean, and The Greenbrier.
WVU MAGAZINE
I’ve visited most of the places chosen as the Best of West Virginia. Here are a few photos from my trips: Hillbilly Hot Dogs, Art Museum at WVU, cabins at Germany Valley, Purple Fiddle, ACE
We
live in BEST Virginia. And this issue proves it. Just look at all the 2016 Best of West Virginia winners (page 80)! From the best bakery to brewery to bookstore, this comprehensive list of the top spots in the state celebrates all that is great about West Virginia. After reading this year’s list, several things are clear to me. The Urbanics at Cafe Cimino Country Inn are doing something right—they are our readers’ top pick for Best Chef, Best Fine Dining Destination, and Best Bed and Breakfast. If you haven’t been to this Sutton sensation, you need to make plans. Pronto. Blackwater Falls State Park is still our readers’ favorite state park and campground. The Greenbrier continues to be revered as our Best Resort and Best Place to Golf, and several other Greenbrier County establishments take home accolades—from Best Distillery to Best Festival to Best Coffee House to Best Mayor. Speaking of Greenbrier County, in this issue we also celebrate the West Virginia School of Osteopathic Medicine located in Lewisburg 8 wvl • winter 2016
(page 74). This institution has been training doctors for service in rural communities for 40 years. With 38 of our 55 counties designated as “health professional shortage areas” by the federal government, the school is essential in improving the health and lifespan of our residents. We all could stand to be a little healthier— and in the winter it is easy to blame the cold weather and hibernate with comfort food. One great way to enjoy the winter and improve our health is cross country skiing. The story about the creation of White Grass in Canaan Valley will make you want to strap on skis and traverse their 40 miles of trails (page 64). I really want to go to one of their first-Saturday-in-December Jack Frost “pray for snow” potluck dinners. The food at White Grass Cafe is amazing. Amazing. Amazing. And it is such a fun venue—with live music and healthy gourmet food, you won’t feel like you’ve negated all of your cross-country calorie burn. Another favorite story of mine is on the hookers (page 42). The textile art of rug hooking is fascinating to me. Just take a look at these pieces of art. And speaking of art, Tamarack is celebrating 20 years. In honor
of that anniversary, we bring you Tamarack’s Top Ten Picks (page 49). We also share with you some of our staff ’s favorite products we’ve picked up from around the state—from West Virginia-shaped cheese markers from Bella the Gourmet in Lewisburg to “Pendleton-opoly” from Yokum’s General Store in Seneca Rocks to Lost River Trading Post paraphernalia in Wardensville. All of these items make great gift ideas. As this year comes to a close and we celebrate eight years of bringing you the BEST of West Virginia, the staff at New South Media wishes you happy holidays and a prosperous and healthy new year!
nikki bowman, Editor
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contributors
letters to the editor Celebrating West Virginia’s Wonder Women fall 16
When Adversity Strikes, West Virginians
STAND TALL FANTA S WAY TIC EXPERS TO IENCE
“I absolutely LOVED the ‘Wonder Women’ section in the fall edition. You all did an amazing job on it. Thank you for the great work.” edward tolliver, via Twitter
FALL
A TRIBUTE to the TOWNS DAMAGED by the FLOODS
✚ Visit HISTORIC MONROE COUNTY
✚ HIKE & BIKE HARPERS FERRY with SENATOR CAPITO
My sister and I both worked there when we were home from college for the summer and winter breaks. kim fetty, via Facebook
Bigfoot Ballyhoo
I think Mr. Harold has written a very fair and expansive article (“In Search of the Stone Man,” Fall ’16) about the author, his very athletic field Sticking with Union Old Sweet—a.k.a. Andrew S. Rowan Memorial work, and the larger issues of proof, existence, Home—as a conference center? Sounds good to exploration, and the study of nature, which, me! Just anything to stop the deterioration of this sadly, has declined in this time of Internet and magnificent place is good (“Unionized,” Fall ’16). screens. I have a dog in this fight; our little
10 wvl • winter 2016
publishing company put out Russ’s book. It was an honor, as he had choices. Thank you. joe beelart, willamette city press, via Facebook
Tasty Tribute
It is a labor of love to provide our community, and this great Mountain State, with quality food! Thanks for the article (“Farmer’s Daughter Market & Butcher,” Summer ’16) in WV Living Magazine! the farmer’s daughter , via Facebook
letters to the editor Putting the Ne
in ‘News’
Hollywood
Rarely am I at a loss for words, but the entire “Wonder Women” adventure definitely found me searching for the right ones. “Thank you” seems hardly enough to show my appreciation for being selected, for the spectacular luncheon, and for the accolades that accompanied the publicity—but “thank you!” Your enthusiasm and true love of our great state continues to bring me great joy with every edition. You gather all the things that
LIPSCOMB Y OF JESSICA COURTES UNIVERSITY;
E REED; COURTES
Y OF MARYANN
LL; COURTES
BLACKWE
Y OF MARIE
2016
COURTES
96 wvl • fall
Superhero-worthy Superlatives
Congratulations to Friends of WV Public Broadcasting board members Maryanne Reed and Susan Hogan for being named in the recent issue of WV Living magazine as West Virginia Wonder Women. Congratulations Maryanne and Susan! the friends of wv public broadcasting, via Facebook
Kingwood to
and Back Again
Jessica Lipsc omb had while she her taste of was attend the limelig ing Unive ht. A talent tive was soon agent discov a professional rsity of North Caroli ered Lipsco na Wilmin Actors Guild. mb gton, But she misse actress in California with a memb and the Kingwood naVirginia to d her family find a differe ership card and the hills nt kind to the Scree of the Presto of home and n n County Cham of success. She’s decided to now a busy of Preston return West ber of Comm real estate County and erce, and agent, presid the Kingw are also workin vice presid ood City Plann ent ent of both g to reope ing Comm the Arts Counc summer days n the Kingw ission ood . She and il as a child. Pool and Park her husba where Lipsco nd mb spent many hot
VIRGINIA
h throug who, e. omen place to liv t 50 w r . Mee te a bette uman sta superh made our be to have have don’t rmination, te eroes Superh ork and de w hard
Every journa list that will make dreams of writing a story a For WVU gradu difference in the world. ate and Assoc Indonesia iated Press bureau chief Margie Maso that dream has n, she and three now come true. In 2015, of leagues publis her Associated Press colhed “Seafo a damning od from Slaves invest ,” seafood indust igation of the moder n ry that enslav thousands es and abuse of people s worldw led to dozen ide. The report s of arrests, s freed thous slaves in South ands of east Asia, of new legisla led to the creati tion team the 2016 in Congress, and won on the Pulitzer Prize Public Servic Gold Medal e. for
make our state “Wild and Wonderful” and share them with the world. Thank you for all you do for everyone whose life you touch. cindi dunn, via mail
Y OF WEST
Fighting for Thos e Who Alr eady Have
Bluefield city ambassado r Marie Black is the face of her city, well appearing and provid at meetings ing busine ss tours to the area. But newcomers helping vetera to passion. After ns is Blackw ell’s the death of her husba U.S. Marin e, in 2011, nd, a she worke nearby town d to help the of Princeton receive a standa Veterans Admin istration clinic lone services closer in 2015 to bring to home. She U.S. Senat also serves or Joe Manch on in’s Vetera Group, Bluefi ns Adviso eld State Colleg ry Board, and e’s Veterans she has also lobbie islature alongs ide Secretary d the state LegTennant for of State Natali a “Boots to e Business” veterans start bill to help businesses that’s not to in the state. mention the And Vietnam Vetera Recognition Day ns ter or the work she organizes with her daughshe does with dation to host the Denve r Founthe Always Free Honor which enable Flight, s veterans to travel to National Mall visit the memorials in Washington , D.C.
w
During her 12 years as dean of West University’s Reed Colleg Virginia e of Media anne Reed , Maryhas been instrumenta ing the future l in shapof journalism She got her in West Virgin start as a ia. broadcast producer and reporter and eventually created winning docum entaries. Since several awardReed has transf coming to WVU, ormed the ism schoo l into its own university’s journalcollege focus “innovative munication. ed on an and She comb prepares studen progressive” curricu ined adver communicat lum that tising and ts for the digita ions” major public relatio and oversa both under l world ns programs of comw the graduate and into a graduate progra creation of nine new her studen minor progra new “strategic ts and ms is at a ms. Enrollm record high. work in develo loves their perspective ent Reed says on ping stude she is inspire in nts into young the world. “I truly feel d by like we are professional doing impor s.” tant
Congrats to West Virginia native Katherine Johnson for being featured in WV Living magazine’s “West Virginia’s Wonder Women”! lego nasa women, via Facebook
Shifting Focus
Loved the WV Living Fall 2016 issue. The articles about the follow-up on the flooding were informative and encouraging (“The
Flood,” Fall ’16). Look forward to hearing more as these efforts continue. Loved the piece about using a container as a bank (“Honey I Shrunk the Bank,” Fall ’16). I am very interested in the whole tiny house movement. Are there efforts to make communities for the seniors or the homeless in our state? And the “Wonder Women” descriptions came out of the magazine and directly into a file I am keeping. I love hearing about people who are making a difference. Thank you. The merging of this magazine with WV Focus has been a very good thing. barbara caballero, via Facebook
Let us hear from you. We want to know what you think about the magazine, and we’d love to hear your suggestions. Email: info@newsouthmediainc.com Call: 304.413.0104 Mail: 709 Beechurst Avenue, Suite 14A, Morgantown, WV 26505 Take WV Living with you:
wvliving.com 11
VOLUME 9, ISSUE 4
Published by
New South Media, Inc. 709 Beechurst Ave., Suite 14A Morgantown, WV 26505
304.413.0104
wvliving.com
EDITOR
Nikki Bowman, nikki@newsouthmediainc.com
ART DIRECTOR
Carla Witt Ford, carla@newsouthmediainc.com
MANAGING EDITOR
Zack Harold, zack@newsouthmediainc.com
ASSOCIATE EDITORS Mary Wade Burnside, marywade@newsouthmediainc.com Pam Kasey, pam@newsouthmediainc.com
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new south media publications Celebrating West Virginia’s Wonder Women fall 16
FALL/WINTER 2016
When Adversity Strikes, West Virginians
STAND TALL FANTAST WAYS IC TO EXPERIE NCE
FALL
A TRIBUTE to the TOWNS DAMAGED by the FLOODS
✚ Visit HISTORIC MONROE COUNTY
✚ HIKE & BIKE HARPERS FERRY with SENATOR CAPITO
ock S olid
From Dolly Sods to The Greenbrier, your complete resource for stunning wedding venues in the Mountain State.
WV Living is published by New South Media, Inc. Subscription rates: $20 for one year. Frequency: Quarterly. Copyright: New South Media, Inc. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of the publisher. © New South Media, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
12 wvl • winter 2016
Discover WEST VIRGINIA IS A PL ACE OF BOUNDLESS DISCOVERY. HERE’S YOUR GUIDE.
COURTESY OF TIM O’BRIEN
Play it Loud Originality is always in style. These are the stories of people who have made use of their unique talents and made the world a cooler place in the process. PICTURED: PRODUCER, MUSICIAN, AND SONGWRITER TIM O’BRIEN TELLS US HIS FAVORITE HOMETOWN HAUNTS, PAGE 22. wvliving.com 13
discover ››
FOLK S
Winning it Forward
when bill matheny was finally chosen in 2016, after auditioning for 17 years straight, to compete on the game show Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, he had a plan. He pledged most of his winnings to his alma mater, St. Francis of Assisi Elementary School in Saint Albans. Father Matheny, associate pastor at All Saints Catholic Church in Bridgeport, did West Virginia proud in two episodes that aired in September. He correctly answered questions about the meaning of “ailurophile” for $50,000, early 20th century Times Square advertising for $100,000, and the name of painter James McNeill Whistler’s mother for $250,000. Having used his three lifelines, he decided not to risk a guess about the Luhn Algorithm for $500,000. “We are forever grateful and beyond blessed,” the school wrote on its Facebook page. written by
pam kasey
photo courtesy of abc
EVENT
Shanghaied in Lewisburg
beginning at noon on january 1, townspeople hop on floats and dress up in costumes for Lewisburg’s annual Shanghai Parade, one of the oldest and oddest traditions in the Greenbrier Valley. The ragtag procession is traditionally led by the local fire chief, dressed as Baby New Year, and each participant gets a crisp $2 bill at the end of the line. 14 wvl • winter 2016
‹‹ discover
ARTIST
Preparing for Launch
Parkersburg artist Zachary Orcutt has an alter ego: Zorcutt, “the Don Quixote of aviation.” zachary orcutt is a metal caster and fabricator by love and ceramicist by practicality. He got started in sculpture at Syracuse University and then had an apprenticeship at the Johnson Atelier Technical Institute of Sculpture. It was while earning an MFA at Bowling Green State University in the early 2000s that he conceived Zorcutt’s absurd flying machines made of scrap metal. Being an artist is a leap of faith, he says; Zorcutt’s leap is “the belief that he can rise up out of the dumpster, creating flying machines that will take him to new lands and opportunities.” Orcutt taught art for eight years at WVUParkersburg while raising up his young son, now 5. But he’s getting ready to make a go of it on his own with a home craft and teaching studio planned to open in 2017. You can support his studio construction by buying ceramics from his Etsy shop. His metalwork will soon be for sale, too. etsy.com/shop/zpotterywv written by pam
kasey orcutt
photo courtesy of zack
wvliving.com 15
discover ›› OU T D OOR S
Birthplace of Rivers
A proposed protected area in West Virginia would be the only U.S. Forest Service-managed national monument east of the Mississippi. if you haven’t heard of the birthplace of rivers national Monument, now is the time. It’s a proposal that would protect the headwaters of six cherished West Virginia rivers: the Cranberry, Cherry, Elk, Gauley, Greenbrier, and Williams. They play a critical role in maintaining the region’s biodiversity, and West Virginians and visitors love them for trout and other fishing and for whitewater rafting. Located in the Monongahela National Forest in Pocahontas, Webster, and Greenbrier counties, the national monument would provide permanent protections for the 50,000-acre Cranberry Wilderness area plus 70,000 surrounding acres. Birthplace of Rivers would fall under U.S. Forest Service management. It would preserve access for hunting and fishing and maintain a role for the timber industry, and local communities and stakeholders would have a say in future management. The designation was proposed in 2013 by a broad coalition of West Virginia businesses and organizations. Beyond protection and access, a study found the national monument could bring an additional 50,000 visitors and more than $5 million to the area annually, all of which would support about 140 new jobs. President Obama has created or expanded more than 20 national monuments. He still has time for one more. If you like the idea, let him know—the coalition was fewer than 300 letters short of its goal of 1,600 letters to the president in early December. birthplaceofrivers.org; click on “Take Action.”
FA MILY FU N
Climb, Explore, Learn
looking for some indoor family fun this winter? The Clay Center for the Arts and Sciences in Charleston recently unveiled two major updates families are sure to love. The most noticeable addition is the dynamic Ashton’s Climbing Sculpture in the atrium. “We wanted to introduce energy, kinetic excitement as soon as you come into the museum,” says Al Najjar, the Clay Center’s president and CEO. “Kids can literally climb through that sculpture and go all the way to the top of the atrium. It’s active, it’s engaging, it’s playful.” It’s also safe. Artist and architect Spencer Luckey—who has built similar structures all around the world—designed the sculpture so that, no matter how high children climb, there are no choking or falling hazards. The Clay Center has also rebooted its discovery museum with “My Town,” a pintsized, interactive community. Children can put on shows in the theater, ring up groceries or go shopping at the supermarket, work on cars in a garage, tend to sick animals in the veterinary clinic, and more. “They’ll be in charge. They get to do all that stuff in a fun and collaborative way,” Najjar says. Exhibits are designed so children can return again and again—the older they get, the more robust the experience becomes. 1 Clay Square, Charleston; 304.561.3570; theclaycenter.org 16 wvl • winter 2016
COURTESY OF POCAHONTAS CVB; ZACK HAROLD
Recent additions to Charleston’s Clay Center encourage discovery.
‹‹ discover
Q U E E N FOR A DAY
KARA DENSE Kara Dense is the executive director of the Greenbrier County Convention and Visitors Bureau. Dense has a bachelor’s degree in travel industry management from Concord University and more than 20 years’ experience in the industry. She holds leadership positions with the West Virginia Association of Convention and Visitors Bureaus, the West Virginia Hospitality and Travel Association, the Lewisburg Rotary, and Greenbrier Valley Theatre. She lives in Lewisburg with her husband Brian and 10-year-old daughter Lily. If I were queen of West Virginia for a day, I would: Increase the state’s tourism marketing budget to $25 million a year to allow our tourism industry to compete with surrounding states. Make broadband accessible to every home and business. Require all restaurants in the state to serve pepperoni rolls. Mandate daily music and/or art classes for every student. Hire Justin Timberlake to perform a show in my honor (and sing backup on a few songs). wvliving.com 17
T EC HNOLOGY
History Comes Alive
A Marshall University professor created a history app that’s like Wikipedia-meets-“Pokemon Go.” history is all around, all the time, but most of us only recognize this when we’re struck by a flash of curiosity. “It’s usually when you’re standing next to something,” says Marshall University history professor David Trowbridge. Plaques do a decent job conveying the basic facts, but inquiring minds are often left wanting more. That’s why Trowbridge created the smartphone app Clio. The app is free to download and provides users with historic information based on their geographic location. Find yourself at the old Diamond Department Store building in Charleston? Clio will tell you about the 1958 civil rights sit-in at the lunch counter. 18 wvl • winter 2016
Pull out your phone at the Hotel Morgan in Morgantown, and you’ll learn that both Eleanor Roosevelt and President Harry Truman have stayed there. Clio features more than 11,000 entries nationwide and is constantly adding more content. Users are encouraged to write their own entries, which are fact-checked by a team of historians and educators. In April 2016, the Whiting Foundation gave Trowbridge a $50,000 fellowship to continue work on Clio. He hopes to use the funds to add new functions, like interactive tours and notifications to alert users when they’re near points of interest. Trowbridge, now a dedicated Clio user, says the software has enriched his understanding of the world around him. He recently reviewed an entry for Huntington’s Ritter Park and learned all about the Civilian Conservation Corps workers who made it into a park. “I take my girls there and watch them play, and I think now about the people who did that.” theclio.com written by zack
harold
CRAIG DAVIS, BULLDOG CREATIVE SERVICES
discover ››
‹‹ discover
Dickens’ “(You’ve Been Quite a Doll) Raggedy Ann,” which features none other than Bill Withers. “When I was going over songs and thinking of people to do them, I came across this recitation thing, ‘Raggedy Ann.’ It popped into my head, ‘I bet he’d like to do this,’” Lipton says. Withers, who notched hit after hit in the 1970s and early ’80s, retired from music in 1985 and hasn’t released a solo recording since. Lipton knew there was a slim S OU ND chance he’d want to contribute to the tribute album, but decided to ask anyway. “He wrote back immediately and said ‘I’d love to do this,’” Lipton says. Withers recorded a recitation of the song and sent the files to Lipton. “I don’t like to use this word, but it’s pretty close to brilliant. It’s kind of like James Earl Jones reading ‘Teddy Bear,’ except better,” he says, referencing Red Sovine’s chart-topping 1976 weeper. Lipton and producer Don Dixon recorded a funkified backing track to match Withers’ when raleigh county’s pint-sized, honeyed voice. It’s quite different from the steel rhinestone-studded country star Little Jimmy Dickens died in January 2015, Michael Lipton guitar-rich backing on Dickens’ recording but preserves the original’s sense of foreboding. “I’m wasted no time putting together a string of tribute shows for the Grand Ole Opry favorite, really excited about the way the stuff turned out. known to his friends as “Tater.” But even after We tried to take some liberties with the songs,” the curtains closed, his co-conspirators weren’t Lipton says. “My philosophy is, there’s no point in trying to recreate them note for note. The ready to let Dickens’ memory go. “Somebody interesting part is to try to do something different said, ‘We should do a record,’” says Lipton, who is executive director of the West Virginia with the song that’s really in the spirit of it.” The Hall of Fame has released three other Music Hall of Fame. albums to date: A Cry from the Mountains by the Lipton realized a Dickens tribute album Nichols Family, Strangest Dream by dulcimer could be “a much more diverse, cooler record master Alan Freeman and flatpicking guitar than most.” He decided to create an album of Dickens’ lesser-known songs and allow the artists legend Robert Shafer, and Always Lift Him Up, a tribute album for the blind old-timey to get creative with their performances. The fiddler Alfred Reed, one of the hall’s inaugural result is Rhinestone Hillbilly: A Tribute to Little inductees. Proceeds from album sales go to the Jimmy Dickens. The track list features longtime West Virginia Music Hall of Fame, a registered Mountain State music scene favorites like Todd 501(c)3 nonprofit organization. Burge, John Lilly, and Mountain Stage host Rhinestone Hillbilly will be released in early Larry Groce as well as notable expats like Ann 2017. For more information, or to purchase Hall Magnuson, Kathy Mattea, Connie Smith, Tim of Fame memorabilia, visit wvmusichalloffame.com. O’Brien, and more. But the shiniest rhinestone in this written by zack harold metaphorical Nudie suit is the recording of
Later, Tater
ANNE HORNYAK
West Virginia musicians lend their talents to a Little Jimmy Dickens tribute album.
FEATURED PLAYERS A glimpse at some of the artists appearing on The Rhinestone Hillbilly: A Tribute to Little Jimmy Dickens.
ANN MAGNUSON Once described by the New York Times as an “endearing theatrical chameleon,” this Charleston-born star of stage and screen is also an accomplished musician with three solo albums under her belt. KATHY MATTEA A Cross Lanes native, Mattea dropped out of WVU to move to Nashville. The gamble paid off big—she enjoyed a string of country hits from the mid-’80s through the late ’90s, winning two Grammy awards in the process. LANDAU EUGENE MURPHY, JR. This golden-voiced Logan County native was making his living washing cars when he auditioned for America’s Got Talent in 2010, where his Frank Sinatra-style crooning carried him to victory. He has since released two popular albums: That’s Life and Christmas Made for Two. CONNIE SMITH Born in Indiana but raised in Summers County, Smith went on to become one of country music’s greatest female vocalists. She’s got the stats to prove it: 20 top 10 Billboard country singles, three number-one albums, 11 Grammy nominations, and a slew of other awards. MAYF NUTTER In addition to a successful career as a singer, songwriter, and musician, this Jane Lew native has appeared in a number of movies as well as television shows like The Waltons, Knot’s Landing, and Gunsmoke.
wvliving.com 19
discover ››
S HOP
Style with a Personal Touch
Raines Interiors in South Charleston offers vintage homegoods made new.
in 2015, charleston native tonya raines opened her interior designing studio with a mission to restore vintage items and turn clients’ houses into their dream homes. With help from her daughter, Alexandria, Raines’ business has taken off in one short year. She hung her shingle in October 2015 under the name Gwyn Roberts. But after the one-year anniversary, she and Alexandria decided to change the name to Raines Interiors and relocate from South Charleston to Charleston. “Our niche at our studio is all about mixing the old with the new,” Raines says. If a customer wants to update a piece of furniture that belonged to a grandmother, Raines works with the customer to figure out what would look best while retaining the 20 wvl • winter 2016
vintage vibe. “I just want to bring things back to life,” she says. Wherever Raines goes, she keeps an eye out for something that would be perfect in her store. “I could bring something back from our state of West Virginia or from Paris,” she laughs. She makes sure everything is oneof-a-kind, and does so by customizing the merchandise herself. She started interior designing 25 years ago and it quickly became her passion. Her studio carries everything from picture frames and Italian hats to grandfather clocks and a selection of furniture. Raines recently worked on an antique Victorian sofa by adding a deep magenta silk fabric slip mixed in with Kate Spade fabric. Her store is also the only Kate Spade retail store in West Virginia.
“Our niche at our studio is all about mixing the old with the new.” tonya raines, raines interiors co-owner
Raines’ customized approach to her merchandise ensures no two customers leave her shop with the same product. “The style of my work is a Southern tradition with a modern flair,” she says. Raines Interiors, 1006 Bridge Road, Charleston; 304.553.2466; facebook.com/gwynwysb written by cami
coulter witt ford
photographed by carla
discover ››
➋ ➊
➌
Tim O’Brien
if you know american roots music, you probably know Tim O’Brien. This influential bluegrass picker and producer has released dozens of albums as a solo act and with bands, including the Grammy-winning Earls of Leicester. He’s also a proud Wheeling native and offers up his idea of a perfect day in his hometown.
➊ WHEELING SUSPENSION BRIDGE I’d walk out onto the suspension bridge from Main Street and look down at the river barges and back at the Capitol Theater. I often imagine my great-grandfather Thomas O’Brien walking out on that same bridge soon after he arrived in Wheeling from Ireland in 1851. I’m writing a song called “Where the River Meets the Road,” about the old Cumberland Road, the B&O Railroad, and my grandfather’s start in Wheeling. Lots of water under that bridge since then! 22 wvl • winter 2016
➋ CENTRE MARKET For lunch I’d hit the Centre Market (2200 Market Street) for a fish sandwich and some clam chowder at Coleman’s Fish Market. After lunch I’d check the local artist gallery on the market’s north side, then go to the oneof-a-kind Paradox Bookstore. If you go, tell the proprietor, Tom Stobart, I said hello. He opened the store as a teenager and I met him when we both acted in local productions at the Towngate Theater just a block north. ➌ FIGARETTI’S RESTAURANT For dinner, I’d head to Figaretti’s Restaurant (1035 Mount DeChantal Road). My parents often took the family there in its original Elm Grove location and then at the current location. I went to grade school with Frank Figaretti, and I recently discovered my Nashville grocery store sells Figaretti’s tomato sauce. They serve great steaks and pasta, but my favorite thing is their jukebox. I’d punch up “Don’t Let the Stars Get in Your Eyes” by everybody’s favorite upper Ohio Valley Italian, Dean Martin.
COURTESY OF TIM O’BRIEN; KATIE HANLON; CALRA WITT FORD; WIKI COMMONS
H ANGO U T S
‹‹ discover BO OK
Biographical Sketch
The Incantations of Daniel Johnston isn’t your typical biography, but Daniel Johnston isn’t your typical subject. This graphic novel takes readers into the troubled mind of the unflinchingly sincere songwriter, who grew up in Hancock County before becoming a Generation X icon. West Virginiaborn author Scott McClanahan provides the book’s simple, earnest prose, which accompanies Spanish artist Ricardo Cavolo’s colorful, abstract illustrations.
T HI S
CARLA WITT FORD
Man Made Candles & Gifts
jonathan johnson has always been creative. “Three years ago I started to make candles and fell in love with the process,” Johnson says. He spent a year perfecting his own wax recipe, mixing waxes like soy and beeswax. Soon after that, he created his own business: Man Made Candles & Gifts in Charleston. He now has 55 fragrances of candles—but the blueberry cobbler candle has been the runaway customer favorite from the start. Johnson also makes other gifts with his fragrances, like bath bombs, soaps, and T-shirts. facebook.com/ manmadegifts written by cami
coulter wvliving.com 23
1 3
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LI V ING LOV E S
starter PACK
Whether it’s a stocking stuffer, a hostess gift, or something special for someone special, here are our picks for surefire gifts. 1. Old Crow Whiskey Cup, Echo Valley Pottery, Glen Dale, echovalleypottery.com, $26 2. Wilted Lettuce Salad Dressing, Appalachian Mountain Specialty Foods, Hardings Family Restaurant, Mink Shoals, 304.344.5044, 25 oz. $9.99 3. WV-shaped slate cheese markers, Bella the Corner Gourmet, Lewisburg, bellathecornergourmet.com, $9.99 4. Mountaineer Glass, Bella the Corner Gourmet, Lewisburg, bellathecornergourmet.com, $17.99 5. Pendleton-opoly, Yokum‘s General Store, Seneca Rocks, $35 6. Knit ski cap and aluminum water bottle, Lost River Trading Post, Wardensville, lostrivertradingpost.com, $15/$28 7. Memory ornament/nightlight, Appalachian Glass, Weston, 304.269.1030, $20 8. Timberline & Canaan Valley stickers, The Ski Barn, Davis, 304.866.4444, prices vary 9. Lisa Dawn’s WV Coal Candy, available in ten flavors, lisadawnscoalcandy.com, 304.308.3009, 8 oz. $6.99/12 oz. $9.99 10. Hummingbird ornament by Janet Hunt, Pocahontas County Artisan Co-op, Marlinton, 304.799.2550, $10 24 wvl • winter 2016
This handmade bulb lights up! 6
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10
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Taste NO MEAL IS COMPLE TE WITHOUT A GOOD STORY
CARLA WITT FORD
Nod to Tradition Everything old is new again, whether it’s homestyle jams and preserves, syrup tapped from West Virginia trees, or restaurants that take favorite dishes and give them a fresh twist. PICTURED: ALPINE RISTORANTE’S BRUSCHETTA ALLA TOSCANA, FEATURING GRILLED CIABATTA TOPPED WITH MARINATED TOMATOES, BASIL, FONTINELLA CHEESE, AND A BALSAMIC DRIZZLE, PAGE 33. wvliving.com 27
taste ›› maker
28 wvl • winter 2016
maker ‹‹ taste
The Vagabond Chef’s
SAMMICH
SAMPLER
The Vagabond A motorcycle-riding, freewheeling English majorturned-professional chef uses travel to inspire his food.
matt welsch jokes he should’ve named his restaurant “The Stable and
BEARD BURGER
Profitable Kitchen.” Since opening in 2014, his Vagabond Kitchen has occupied three different spaces around Wheeling: the McClure Hotel, the basement of the old state Capitol building, and now, a former Mexican restaurant on the corner of 12th and Market streets. Welsch plans to make this latest location his permanent one and focus his rambling ways on The Vagabond Chef, a blog chronicling his travels to restaurants around the country. The motorcycle-riding restaurateur recently sat down for an interview with WV Living, explaining how traveling got him interested in food, taught him about his home state, and informs the food at The Vagabond Kitchen. thevagabondchefrides.com ➻ I’ve always been a traveler. I’ve always had a lot of wanderlust. It’s tough for me to stay in one place for too long. It was always easy to get a job in a kitchen. It was just a thing I had to fall back on. Then (Don Shepler, co-owner and chef of Galena Lodge in Idaho) gave me the freedom to explore. I was done for. I knew I wouldn’t be able to work outside of a kitchen anymore. You can survive on anything, but we can do so much better than that. It’s making your experience on this planet better. ➻ One day (while working in a coffee shop in Chicago) a regular rode up on a BMW. My jaw hit the floor. “I don’t know what that is, but I need to ride that machine.” It’s so much different than riding in a car. When you’re completely open to the elements and can feel everything and smell everything, it’s raw. It’s like hiking with a machine. ➻ I’d traveled all over the country and felt like there were all these place in West Virginia I hadn’t seen. I’ve sang “Country Roads” all over the world, so I felt like I owed it to West Virginia to get around the state.
➻ There’s so much good food here in West Virginia. Jewel City Seafood in Huntington is probably the best seafood I’ve ever had. The Eastern Panhandle blew me away. People really care about their food in a way they haven’t, maybe, ever. Food is such a cultural touchstone. ➻ I want (the menu at Vagabond Kitchen) to be accessible, but I want to open doors. It’s world food through the filter of the Appalachian biker guy. When people bite into my food, what I hope to see is that they light up. If it’s the best possible reaction, they light up and cuss. That’s when I know it’s perfect, that I’ve nailed it.
THE CUBAN
➻ Now I’ve really got to focus on getting that flagship location locked down. Once that is solid, then I think I’ll be able to start planning regular Vagabond Chef trips. I’m trying to find a way to have my cake and eat it too. I guess the best way to do it is bake it myself. interviewed by zack
harold photos courtesy of matt welsch
LOOK TWICE wvliving.com 29
libations ‹‹ taste
Coffee with a Cause
A new café in Wayne serves up lattes with a side of opportunity.
T
he old Urlings building in downtown Wayne has lived a full life. Over the years it has been a department store, a five and dime, and even a Model T dealership. And now the building is home to Wayne’s first coffee shop—Betty and Joe’s Trout’s Hill Coffee. The coffee shop was built to create opportunity in Wayne and promote the community, says Deacon Stone, president of Rediscover Appalachia, an enterprise of the Coalfield Development Corporation. The nonprofit organization’s mission is to put local people to work while helping them gain life
skills. “We believe the way to diversify our economy is to diversify the experiences of young people, to give them opportunities to go out and participate,” Stone says. “Ghandi said, ‘Be the change you want to see in the world.’ Well, we want to be the economy we want to see in West Virginia.” In 2015, the Coalfield Development Corporation launched a crowdfunding campaign for the coffee shop. Stone says the organization saw it as an opportunity for people to invest in what was going on in their backyard. The response was encouraging, with more than 40 people backing the campaign.
The coffee shop, which opened in June 2016, is named after an influential family in the community’s history. In 1824, Abraham Trout bought 500 acres of land in Wayne County, which eventually became the established site for the county seat. “Betty and Joe’s” was added to the name in honor of the parents of an anonymous donor—a former Wayne resident—who contributed $10,000 to the crowdfunding campaign. Customers can enjoy a variety of sandwiches, wraps, and salads as well as specialty drinks in a modern, funky atmosphere complete with a school of handmade, handpainted wooden fish above the front door. 524 Hendricks Street, Wayne; 304.437.2741; facebook.com/ troutshillcoffee written by shawnee
moran
photos courtesy of coalfield development
corporation
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taste ›› local f lavor
Liquid Gold Give pancakes the topping they deserve with these West Virginia-made maple syrups. Canada and Vermont may think they have the market cornered, but the Mountain State is staking its claim on the breakfast table.
Sharp’s Country Store Maple Syrup $13.75, 8.5 ounces 35087 Seneca Trail Slatyfork; 304.572.3547 sharpscountrystore.com Cedar Run Farm Pure Maple Syrup $5.25, 1.69 ounces 2032 Point Lookout Road, Friendly 304.684.7936; cedarrunfarm.com
Valley Farm of Aurora $11.50, 16 ounces Arthurdale Co-op Store WV Route 92, Arthurdale 304.864.6246
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Frostmore Farm Maple Syrup $5.99, 4 ounces 14141 Frost Road, Dunmore 304.456.4331 facebook.com/frostmorefarm
Cassell’s Sugar Shack $9.50, 8 ounces The Whistle Stop Durbin; 304.456.5002 whistlestopgiftshop.com Open seasonally
Sunrise Farm Maple Syrup $18, 16 ounces The 4th Avenue Gallery 721 4th Avenue Marlinton; 304.456.5440 pocahontasartistry.com
Fresh Powder and Pasta
From the hills of central Italy to the mountains of Pocahontas County, Alpine Ristorante brings hearty eats to hardy skiers.
wvliving.com 33
taste ›› Alpine Ristorante Alpine Ristorante offers a cozy ambiance and expertly crafted dishes like the Italian
W
hen Bill Treadway and Tom Greene, coowners of the popular Snowshoe steakhouse South Mountain Grille, began thinking of opening a second restaurant, they took a look around the wintertime destination’s dining scene and realized something was missing. There was no place where hungry skiers could tuck into a big plate of shrimp scampi or veal marsala. But Treadway and Greene did not want to open an American-style Italian place, with red sauce and checkered tablecloths. “We didn’t want the focus to be on unlimited breadsticks and pasta. We wanted to focus on steaks and seafoods,” Treadway says. They wanted to open a Tuscan-style restaurant. “Tuscan food is hallmarked by fresh ingredients and simple preparation,” he says. 34 wvl • winter 2016
They began working to open the new restaurant, dubbed Alpine Ristorante, in the former home of Snowshoe’s long-closed fine dining establishment Red Fox. They also started looking for a chef with some experience in Italian cuisine. The hunt didn’t take long. Ed Shuttleworth had served as Snowshoe’s head chef from 2000 to 2005. By 2014 he was in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina—working in an Italian restaurant. “When my family and I left, we missed the mountain so much,” he says. “I’d heard there was an opportunity and I reached out to (Kim Guiden, then chef at South Mountain Grille). One thing led to another and I moved within a month.” The restaurant opened Christmas Day 2014. Word quickly spread that Shuttleworth was back on the mountain and cooking up topnotch food. “We use the freshest ingredients I can possibly buy in West Virginia. We cut up
Shrimp and Grits, bottom right, a dish created by chef Ed Shuttleworth, bottom left.
our own meat. We break down all of our own fish,” he says. “We make our own meatballs, we make all our own sauces. By this winter we’ll be making 100 percent of all of our own desserts.” Shuttleworth unveiled several new dishes when the restaurant opened for the 20162017 winter season on December 9, including an Italian take on the southern classic shrimp and grits. The dish features North Carolina jumbo shrimp, prosciutto ham, peppers, onions, gorgonzola cheese, and, instead of grits, Shuttleworth uses polenta. “We did it as a special last year and every time we did, it sold very, very well,” he says. Also debuting this season is Alpine’s veal carbonara, which features veal sauteed with prosciutto and peas in a light cream sauce. And diners are sure to love the brand-new Crab Cake Italiano made with fresh lump crab, goat cheese, sauteed spinach, and sundried tomatoes, “just to give it that Italian aspect,” Shuttleworth says. Not everything on the menu changes year to year, however. “There are a few items we keep on our menu because they’re the things people keeping coming back for,” Shuttleworth says. That includes dishes like Alpine’s lasagna. The dish begins with a house-made bolognese sauce, made of ground pork, beef, veal, garlic, onions, and San Marzano tomatoes. The sauce is then layered with pasta and six different cheeses: mozzarella, provolone, parmesan, ricotta, romano, and asiago. “It’s just a great hearty winter dish,” Shuttleworth says. Treadway says he only has one problem with his and Greene’s newest venture— everything is so good, he has a hard time deciding what to order. “I think my favorite thing is the specials. You never know what Chef Ed is going to do,” he says. The restaurant will remain open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. until the slopes close at Snowshoe, tentatively scheduled for the last week of March depending on weather conditions. After the snow season, the restaurant is also open Thursday through Sunday between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day, with a menu that features lighter dishes and smaller portions. 5811 Snowshoe Drive, Snowshoe; 304.572.9402; info@alpineristorante.com; alpineristorante.com written by zack
harold photographed by carla witt ford
vittles ‹‹ taste
Memories for Sale Preserves from In a Jam! provide a tasty trip into the past.
W
hen Andrea Duke began selling her homemade preserves at the downtown Parkersburg Point Place Marketplace farmers’ market, she was surprised at how many older gentleman approached her booth. The men would talk of days past, when they would pick fresh fruit with their grandmothers, an experience shared by Duke. This caused Duke to pause: She wasn’t selling just jams and jellies. “I’m selling memories, because grandparents tell stories.” She had found her niche. Duke’s business, In a Jam!, now produces more than 20 varieties of preserves and jams. That includes unique flavors like salted watermelon jam and heirloom tomato jam, which both feature salt from Maldenbased JQ Dickinson Salt-Works. The most popular flavors are elderberry, blackberry, crabapple, and black cherry. She sells her
jams and jellies at 15 locations in four-ounce small-batch jars, sealed with a sticker of approval she received from the West Virginia Department of Agriculture in February 2016. This sticker signifies her products are made with homegrown ingredients and, most importantly, it allows her product to be sold at Tamarack in Beckley. In A Jam! isn’t a one-act circus, however. Duke makes applesauce from local Gala apples. Her grape juice, which Duke will introduce at Fairmont’s Feast of the Seven Fishes Festival on December 10, is made with West Virginiagrown grapes and filtered water. Although business is good, Duke plans to remain a small-batch company, for fear of losing that homegrown identity. “Farm-totable is so popular right now and that’s where the appeal lies,” Duke says. A few local farms, such as Wagner’s Fruit Farm in Lowell, Ohio, grow Duke’s ingredients, which she freezes to use in future recipes. The actual jamming process is quite simple: Duke cooks the fruit in a gelling agent called pectin, adding sugar later. The jams are then left to sit, gel, and become edible spreads. Look for Duke as she travels across the state from market to market. She might be creating preserves, but the one thing she’s really preserving? Memories. written by cody
roane witt ford
photographed by carla
wvliving.com 35
zack harold photographed and styled by carla witt ford written by
Grandmothers everywhere know, if you want to have lots of money in the
coming year, eat some cabbage on New Year’s Day. No one seems to know how the humble cabbage came to be associated with financial prosperity, but it probably has something to do with the leaves’ resemblance to greenback dollars. If you’re in need of some extra green this year—and who isn’t?—we’ve collected recipes that will allow you to eat cabbage as your main dish, side dish, and dessert. Even if they don’t bring you good luck, you’ll at least kick off 2017 with a full belly. Resolutions can wait until January 2.
this ‹‹ taste
Please
Cabbage Roll Soup 1 large onion, diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 lb. lean ground beef ½ lb. lean ground pork ¾ cup uncooked long grain rice 1 medium head cabbage, chopped with core removed 1 cup refrigerated sauerkraut, drained 1 (28 ounce) can diced tomatoes, no salt added 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 cups beef broth 1½ cups vegetable juice 1 teaspoon paprika 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 bay leaf salt and pepper, to taste
1. In a large pot, brown onion, garlic, pork, and beef. Drain any fat. Stir in chopped cabbage and let cook until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add all remaining ingredients. For thinner soups add more beef broth, as rice will absorb the broth and give it a denser consistency. 2. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium low. Cover and simmer on low until rice is fully cooked, about 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove bay leaf and serve.
wvliving.com 37
Reuben Casserole 9 slices rye bread, cut into 1-inch pieces ½ cup butter, melted ½ lb. corned beef, chipped then chopped 1 lb. package refrigerated sauerkraut, drained 1½ cups shredded Swiss cheese ½ cup Thousand Island dressing 1 tablespoon mustard
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1. Preheat oven to 375º. Spray a 2½-quart baking dish with cooking spray. On a baking sheet, toss together bread squares and melted butter. Bake, stirring occasionally until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. In a large bowl, stir together bread, corned beef, sauerkraut, half of the cheese, dressing, and mustard until well blended. 2. Pour mix into prepared baking dish, sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake until heated through and cheese has melted, about 20 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. Refrigerate leftovers.
Chocolate
Sauerkraut
Cake with Sour Cream Frosting cake ½ of a 14-ounce can of sauerkraut 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1½ cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 large eggs, room temperature 1 cup warm brewed coffee or water ½ cup miniature semi-sweet chocolate chips
frosting 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped ½ cup sour cream, room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla pinch of salt 2¼ cups confectioner’s sugar, unsifted 1-2 tablespoons room temperature milk or as needed 1. Preheat oven to 350 º. Spray a 9-by-13-inch metal cake pan with flour-added baking spray. Spoon half the sauerkraut out of can into a colander. Rinse lightly with water, drain well, pat dry, and chop on a cutting board or with a food processor. 2. In a medium-size bowl, thoroughly mix the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. 3. In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until creamy. Beat in vanilla. Scrape the sides of the bowl
and beat in eggs one by one. When eggs are blended, add flour mixture alternately with coffee, stirring on low speed, until just mixed. Stir in chopped sauerkraut and miniature chocolate chips. 4. Pour cake batter into prepared pan and bake on center rack for 33 to 35 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Let cool in the pan. 5. When ready to frost, melt butter in mediumsize, microwave-safe bowl. Add chocolate chips and stir until almost fully melted. Microwave at 50-percent power for another 30 seconds and stir until chocolate is fully melted. Scrape into a large mixing bowl. Stir in room temperature sour cream and vanilla. Add confectioner’s sugar 1 cup at a time and beat with an electric mixer until smooth and creamy. For thinner frosting, add a little milk. Spread over cake and serve.
wvliving.com 39
40 wvl • winter 2016
Live
E XPLORING THIS E X TRAORDINARY PL ACE WE CALL HOME
Vision Test
CARLA WITT FORD
An indie movie house in Buckhannon? A traditional craft made into fine art? A “doily-free” bed and breakfast? Sometimes the only way to know if an idea will work is to give it a try. PICTURED: TRADERS ALLEY IN BUCKHANNON IS HOME TO LASCAUX MICRO-THEATER, WHICH SHOWS INDEPENDENT AND CLASSIC FILMS, PAGE 59.
wvliving.com 41
Using humble tools and a simple technique, rug hookers make intricate works of art. written by zack
harold
BRAD STANTON
Hooked on Hooking
creatively ‹‹ live Rug hooker June Myles’ new book Men Only, Mostly is a collection of rugs crafted using photos of men she has collected
over time. Sometimes, she even buys men’s clothing from thrift stores to make the wool strips for the rugs.
BRAD STANTON
J
une Myles loves the way men look. When she comes across a man she finds especially attractive, Myles will spend hours poring over his features. She pays special attention to his nose—noses are complicated. Hair is even more complicated, so Myles often makes her men wear hats so she doesn’t have to deal with it. She finds her men everywhere. She came across one in a Great Depression-era photo. Another time, she found a man in a book of Persian miniatures she picked up after seeing an exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. She’s found a few men in the obituary section of The Economist—she’s particularly fond of the Indiana Jones look-alike who was survived by a pet turtle he’d owned since he was a boy. She has collected these men, and more, into a new book called Men Only, Mostly. It’s a collection of photos of colorful, intricate rugs inspired by the men in her life—rugs made with nothing but strips of fabric, a loosely woven backing cloth, a metal hook, lots of time, and lots of care. Myles, who splits her time between Elkins and Redding, Connecticut, developed her love of art as a child—she took art classes at the YMCA in Elkins when she was in elementary school. She tried many different art forms through the years, from pottery to painting to woodworking, but nothing really stuck until the late 1980s, when she took a class in rug hooking. “I got hooked,” she says. Although she does not sell her rugs, Myles’ work has been featured in shows all over New England. The art and craft of rug hooking originated in the mid-1800s in New England
and eastern Canada. It hasn’t changed much since then. Rug hookers start with a loosely woven “host” fabric and jab a metal hook through it, wrapping the shaft of the hook with a linguine-sized strip of fabric. This strip of fabric forms a small loop when the hook is pulled back through the host fabric. The hooker then repeats this process over and over, creating thousands upon thousands of small loops for one rug. It’s a simple process, but one that allows rug hookers to make designs as complicated and detailed as they desire. “It’s an art form. Whatever artistic skills you want to accumulate will push through,” says Susan Feller, another well-known West Virginia rug hooker, located in Augusta. “I’ve been able to pull my art background and history into appreciating the traditional crafts.”
Feller also discovered rug hooking after dabbling in other art forms. She studied photography in college but that wasn’t tactile enough, so she tried oil painting and watercolors. It wasn’t until 1994, when she was running a framing shop and art gallery in New Jersey, that Feller found the art form that best suited her restless fingers. A customer took an antique rug in to be framed. Feller knew the customer made rugs of her own and asked for a tutorial. “She gave me the 15-minute lesson, which was all I wanted to have.” That brief introduction was enough to set Feller off on an artistic path that has consumed the past two decades of her life. It wasn’t long before she tried making her own patterns, which she eventually started selling to fellow rug hookers through her business, Ruckman Mill Farm. When she saw customers going elsewhere to buy fabric strips wvliving.com 43
live ›› creatively
COURTESY OF SUSAN FELLER
Augusta-based rug hooker Susan Feller enjoys dabbling in different artistic styles
44 wvl • winter 2016
with her rugs. She does abstract work like “Hay Rolls in Winter” (left), figurative works like
“Iconic Liberty” (top right), and portraiture, like this self portrait (bottom right).
creatively ‹‹ live
COURTESY OF SUSAN FELLER; BRAD STANTON
Although rug hooking is a relatively simple process, it gives artists great freedom to express their individual ideas, as can be seen in Susan Feller’s work in “Progress in the Mountains” (left) and “Winter Tree” (bottom right) and June Myles’ “A Wild Wonderful W.Va. Welcome” (top right).
to complete her patterns, she decided to begin dyeing and selling her own. And even as she created rugs that would be juried into exhibitions all over the country, Feller also taught the craft of rug hooking, holding classes all over the world for hookers of all ages. Then, a few years ago, Feller sold her business to Green Mountain Hooked Rugs and became a student again. “My 59th year, I decided to knuckle down and figure out what I was doing with my art life. I could not afford a master’s degree so I decided, well, I could create my own independent study,” she says. Nearly every day leading up to her 60th birthday, Feller made a small 5-inch square of artwork to experiment with different themes and concepts. Some were just sketches. Others combined rug hooking with jewelry work, quilting, embroidery, or painting. She exhibited the pieces as a full collection titled “The Year Study” in 2015. They’re now featured on her website, artwools.com, where the pieces are available for sale. Feller is just glad artforms like rug hooking, embroidery, and quilting are finally getting the respect they deserve from the fine arts community. “When I was growing up, they were craft. Now I can use those techniques in an artistic way.” artwools.com
June Myles’ 2008 book, If Wool Could Talk, is a memoir told through gorgeous full-color photos of hooked rugs she has made over the years. It can be purchased on Amazon. https://goo.gl/3Sc2qs
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away ‹‹ live
Modern, Yet Historic
Harpers Ferry’s Stonehouse Bed & Breakfast gives guests the best of both worlds with an updated, “doily free” old hotel and a hot meal every morning made from grandma’s recipes. written by mary
wade burnside bowman
photographed by nikki
W
hen Chris Corder decided to open Stonehouse Bed & Breakfast in historic Harpers Ferry, he asked his grandmother—a native of Valley Bend in Randolph County—for some recipes so he could fulfill the “breakfast” portion of his establishment’s name. Now guests like Jessica Tuel, who stays there during an annual trip, enjoy Chris’s extrafluffy blueberry griddle cakes. “He makes amazing pancakes and fruit,” says Tuel, who lives in Denton, Maryland. “It’s always like something you see in a restaurant.”
live ›› away
That’s just one of the ways Chris and his wife, Liesel, go above and beyond at Stonehouse. Another is to declare the bed and breakfast a “doily free environment.” “Chris came up with the ‘doily-free’ thing, and I think it was because he believes most people think of B&Bs as being a bit old-fashioned and maybe cluttered,” Liesel says. Not at Stonehouse. The Corders have worked to streamline and update their circa 1830s home, which they have renovated and expanded while retaining the structure’s historic feel. Chris has lived at the home for 11 years and opened Stonehouse B&B in 2009, before he met Liesel in 2013. They married in spring 2016. A former photojournalist in Virginia, Chris feared his job was in jeopardy during the recession, so he decided to open a B&B to transition into a new line of work. Luckily he has carpentry skills, which have come in handy as he works on the home, recently expanding from three guest rooms to four. “When I bought it, it was messed up, so I had to work on it,” he says. “We slowly opened up in 2009.” He recently built an addition that turned an 48 wvl • winter 2016
existing bedroom into a suite, with a Jackand-Jill bathroom that can be shared by family members or visitors traveling together. Like Tuel, Tom Ellis is a repeat customer, staying at Stonehouse B&B once a year when he attends the Waterford Festival in Loudoun County, Virginia, each October. “The location is phenomenal,” he says. “It’s right there in lower Harpers Ferry.” Stonehouse is within walking distance of many of the area’s historic sites. There’s the federal armory raided by John Brown in 1859, as well as the rock overlooking the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers where Thomas Jefferson once declared, “This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic.” Other nearby attractions include the portion of the Appalachian Trail that crosses West Virginia—Stonehouse gets occasional visits from day hikers—as well as a segment of the C&O Canal and the towpath that is popular with bicyclists. The rivers also provide recreational opportunities. “We’ve rented kayaks and gone tubing,” Tuel says. She and her husband, Jason,
also have taken tours of wineries Stonehouse B&B owner in the area. Both Tuel and Ellis Chris Corder compliment the Corders’ style expanded the number of guest of hosting. “Everything is so rooms from three relaxed,” Tuel says. “Sometimes to four with when you go to a B&B, you renovations. feel like you are in somebody else’s house. They provide such a welcoming atmosphere.” Says Ellis, “We love Chris and Liesel. They are kind, welcoming folks.” Stonehouse B&B keeps pretty busy spring through fall and does a decent business even during the winter months. One holiday draw is the longstanding early-December Harpers Ferry Olde Tyme Christmas. The Corders are there to help—or stay out of guests’ way when they already have a full itinerary. “Some people come up and have no idea what they are going to do, and we give them some ideas,” Chris says. “Some have everything planned out and we let them do their thing. We’re hands off.” 156 High Street, Harpers Ferry; 304.460.9550; hfstonehouse@ gmail.com; hfstonehouse.com
artfully ‹‹ live
Tamarack’s Top Picks Here’s a look at some of the most popular items at West Virginia’s premier arts and crafts showcase, located just off Interstate 64 in Beckley. tamarackwv.com written by zack
harold photos courtesy of tamarack
Megan Brown FAIRMONT Brown’s company The Pretty Pickle, which launched in 2010, incorporates natural elements into her jewelry. Her “Wings” line features moth and butterfly wings, painstakingly encased in resin. Nature lovers can take comfort knowing no moths or butterflies are harmed in the creation of these pieces—Brown only uses naturally-expired insects, which she either buys from butterfly conservatories and farms or finds in nature. theprettypickle.com
This scarf was made by Nellie Rose Textiles, a company based in Thomas that makes hand-dyed Japanese-style shibori silks. nellierosetextiles.com
Mountaineer Brand
Mik Wright
PETERSBURG
MARTINSBURG
WESTON
Garton took up wood carving in 1987 when he decided to make a hobby horse for his young son. He’s still turning out beautiful carvings 30 years later, using native West Virginia woods like basswood, pine, and walnut. Although he has no formal artistic training, Garton draws on his knowledge of animal anatomy—which he gained while training as a veterinarian at Ohio State College of Veterinary Medicine—to create realistic bears, elk, deer, skunks, foxes, and more. gartonoriginals.com
Necessity, it has been said, is the mother of invention. In 2014, Eric Young went online to find a product that would bring his dry, bristly beard back to life. When he couldn’t find anything that suited his tastes—or his budget—he decided to concoct his own line of beard care products. His product line has since expanded to include lip balm, foot rub, diaper balm, muscle rub, handle salve, shaving supplies, and more. mountaineerbrand.com
Known simply as “Those Shoes,” these unique kicks by cobbler and leathersmith Mik Wright are sure to draw attention no matter where they tread. Each pair is handmade and hand-decorated, so no two are exactly the same. The shoes are adorned with landscapes, starscapes, animals, and other psychedelic designs. Wright offers a variety of styles, too, from high tops and low tops to sandals, clogs, and several varieties of boots. thoseshoes.com
John Garton
Daniel Vineyards
Linda Knowles
CRAB ORCHARD
CHARLESTON
When Dr. C. Richard Daniel established his vineyard on a former golf course in 1990, he began experimenting to see which kinds of grapes would grow best there. After going through more than 100 varietals, he narrowed the list to 14 kinds of grapes, which he uses to make a full line of red and white wines. His wines have won multiple awards at state, national, and international competitions. The Esprit is a dry white wine with a melon-apricot flavors and tastes similar to a Pinot Grigio. danielvineyards.com
Although she only took up pottery about six years ago, Knowles loved the freedom she found in ceramics—especially after she figured out she had a knack for the art form. Now she makes makes minimalist ceramics pieces that draw inspiration both from pottery she saw during her family’s travels in Japan and from West Virginia’s native flora and fauna. Sometimes the pieces are functional, like these oil bottles, and sometimes they’re just for looks. But Knowles’ work is always elegant.
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Ed Klimek
Leona Mackey
SHINNSTON
HUNTINGTON
It was nearly 20 years ago when Ed Klimek made his first face jug. Nobody really knows the origins of this traditional Southern handicraft. They might’ve been gravemarkers for the recently deceased, or a way to scare children away from the grown-ups’ moonshine. But Klimek gave it his own spin with outlandish, cartoony faces that quickly won over collectors’ hearts and wallets. His work is one of the most popular—and recognizable— West Virginia-made items available at Tamarack. goo.gl/gr9Xcw
There aren’t many art forms where the element of surprise is as much a part of the process as talent and skill—but that’s what Leona Mackey enjoys about fusing glass. The painter, jewelry maker, and retired Marshall University art professor carefully arranges thin pieces of glass into abstract images, then sends them into a blazing-hot kiln. She’s never exactly sure what the piece will look like, however, until it emerges from the heat.
Burl Jones
Blenko Glass
SISSONVILLE
MILTON
Dentist-turned-sculptor Burl Jones began making figurines from wax and casting them in copper and bronze, the way he was taught to make dental prostheses in college. He graduated to clay and started sending his work to honest-to-goodness foundries. To the surprise of no one but Jones, people were soon asking to buy his intricately detailed depictions of outdoor life. This coffee table, depicting a bespectacled angler carefully tying a new fly onto the end of his line, is the last of a series of 30. burljones.com
Although many of the state’s storied glass companies are lost to history, the renowned Blenko Glass Company—family-owned and -operated since 1893—is keeping the tradition alive. The company’s Milton factory still bustles with a team of talented artisans who make molds, blow glass, and polish the finished pieces, all by hand. The factory is still turning out beautiful and functional glassware in new designs and new colors that are prized by collectors worldwide. blenko.com wvliving.com 51
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the historic
George Pinkney Morgan House
The only freestanding early Morgan home left in the Monongahela River valley came within inches of demolition in the 1980s—and it has the cracked front steps to prove it. written by pam
kasey witt ford
photographed by carla
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live ›› at home
W
hen David and Sarah Morgan moved their family west in the early 1770s from the Upper Potomac to the Monongahela River valley, they staked out a rise in a broad, squarish loop in the river. It was raw, untamed wilderness. But David and his younger brother Zackquill, two of the earliest settlers in the valley, could handle wilderness—they were sons of Morgan and Catherine Morgan, the very first Europeans to homestead permanently in western Virginia. David cut trees and built his family’s cabin smack in the middle of that loop in the Mon, with the river less than a mile to the northeast, southeast, and southwest. Then, a mile straight south, across the river, he and Jacob Prickett built Prickett’s Fort in 1774 as protection from natives. Once during a period of hostilities, David left the fort suddenly on a premonition and ended up killing two natives to protect his children—earning the 60-year-old the admiring nickname “Indian Fighter.” Natives burned their cabin in retaliation. David and Sarah moved a few miles upriver to land he owned at presentday Fairmont and, when Sarah died in 1799, David floated downriver with her body on a raft. He took her to the site of their earlier cabin, carved a headstone for her, and, with that, started the family cemetery. Those early settlers were real frontierfolk. The 1768 treaty that pushed the Iroquois across the Ohio River didn’t make the Mon safe right away, but eager pioneers started planting their lives beside the wide, shallow river anyway. David and Zackquill among them are local legend today— David in Marion County and Zackquill in Monongalia. Many of the stories are hard to confirm, but the men’s clear hand in the region’s future seems to justify them. The brothers fought under George Washington in the 1755 and 1758 expeditions to take Fort Duquesne, at today’s Pittsburgh, from the French. Washington was probably a family friend: He’d surveyed earlier in the sparsely populated region where the boys grew up, and he owned land there. David and his family planted crops and orchards at their farm on the Mon, and the Morgans contributed energetically to civic life. David surveyed the town of Pleasantville—today’s Rivesville—and Zackquill laid out Morgan’s Town 20 miles downriver. Cousin Daniel Boone rode through from time to time. Come 1777, the 54 wvl • winter 2016
brothers fought as patriots, as did four of David’s boys. And when they weren’t fighting natives, or the French, or the British, Morgans served in critical peacemaking roles like sheriff. Their descendants include William S. Morgan, a botanist and Virginia congressman who carved out Marion County, and Francis H. Pierpont— the Father of West Virginia. So in 1987, when locals challenged a bulldozer at the threshold of the only freestanding early Morgan home left in the Mon valley, they took that personal risk in remembrance of a proud legacy. Childhood neighbor Jim Rote has since returned home to West Virginia and bought and restored the home as a private residence.
at home ‹‹ live Jim Rote’s clean restoration showcases the original materials and lines like the wide-plank southern heart pine floors, the unusual
mantelpiece in the parlor, and a back staircase servants used to move between a work room and upstairs quarters.
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live ›› at home
History Worth a Risk
The house is thought to date to the 1850s. George Pinkney Morgan built his family’s two-story, ell-shaped, red brick home on the piece of land that came down to him from his grandfather David, a hundred yards from the little family cemetery. George first paid property taxes on the home in 1857, but the construction methods come from an earlier time. “The beams in this house either have the adze marks, kind of like an axe, or the straight up-and-down saw cuts like if they were cut in a saw pit,” Rote says. “The bricks are also all handmade.” George is said to have been a good farmer. And when the B&O rail line came through Fairmont in 1852, he assembled investors in the Marion Cannel Coal Company to mine coal on the property and constructed a spur line to connect with the B&O. Maybe it was coal income that built his home, which was large and fancy for that place and time. George was a Confederate like many of his relatives. But as was true for so many, the 56 wvl • winter 2016
family was deeply divided. He was captured in a skirmish at the October 1861 Battle of Greenbrier River, even as his cousin Francis Pierpont had come to head up the pro-Union Restored Government of Virginia. George died a Union prisoner, not yet 40 years old. His widow, Catherine, and their children lived together and farmed the land for the rest of their lives. They took a foster child, Walter Curnutte, into the family in the early 1900s; he eventually inherited the place and farmed it on his own and then arranged for it to be strip mined. When he died in 1975, the house had been occupied essentially by one family for more than a century, with little modification. But by the mid-1980s, abandonment and strip mining threatened the home. Hunters sometimes sat on a second-story porch to wait for deer to cross the property, Rote says. Mining had created a sheer 40-foot drop-off just yards from the house. Locals aware of the historical significance of the property came to its defense. “Dave Elkinton was director of Prickett’s Fort,” Rote relates. “He and my
neighbor Jack Starn, they stood on the front steps when the bulldozer came to knock the house down. The first two steps are broken— that’s how close the bulldozer came to them—but they wouldn’t move.” A citizens’ group got an injunction to protect the house. Rote had grown up across the street in the 1950s and ’60s. “Walter had ponds on the property. I always liked his house,” he says. “I remember herds of cattle, big fields of corn, and all the fruit, and down along the driveway there was probably a 200-yard-long truck garden.” But when he went inside the house after the injunction, it looked terrible. “It took about a day to cut all the briars just so we could get in. It sat unlocked with the window sashes lying on the floor, and there was probably a foot and a half of trash on the floors,” he says. Someone had dismantled the curved banister—to remove a mattress, by one account, and possibly burned by intruders for warmth—and the parlor mantelpiece lay on the floor, detached from the wall but apparently too heavy for plunderers to carry off.
at home ‹‹ live Nearly all of the materials and fixtures in the George Pinkney Morgan
Rote bought the house in 2000. Built solid, the 150-year-old structure had survived maltreatment and near-demolition in remarkable shape. Rote once worked at the Colonial Williamsburg living history museum and has a fondness for old properties, and he began a thoughtful restoration.
Original Materials, Historical Details
A visitor crossing the cracked front steps of the restored George Pinkney Morgan house to enter through the front door—at the “top” of the ell—feels the authenticity, both in the rich, natural materials that have aged in place and in their textured unevenness. “It’s got all the original southern heart pine floors, all the original mantels, all the original window sashes, all the original doors, and probably 80 percent of the original plaster,” Rote says. “The lower level is four layers of brick thick and the upper level is two layers—it tapers off as it gets higher.” To the right, “there’s a beautiful stairway,” he says. “It goes up to a landing and curves
house are original, giving an aura of rich authenticity.
cabinet between the two rooms kept servants efficient and unobtrusive. Upstairs, six bedrooms surround the open side porch that hunters used to use. Bedrooms still have their original millwork, and two have fireplaces. Telling details reward an inquiring mind. In the adjacent kitchen and dining room, for example, identical side-by-side doors connect with the backyard. “In the South, if there was a slave workroom, there was a separate door for the master—exact same door,” Rote explains, passing on information he learned from a history of American architecture. “But you can tell the difference on the outside because the master’s door has a stone lintel across the top and the servants’ door has a thick wooden beam. These doors are still like that.” And in the attic, “there’s a 4-footwide, 4-foot-tall, 12-foot-long cherry ‘house’ sitting on the rafters,” he says. “They had carrier pigeons, and they’d go up to get their messages. In part of it, they kept doves. I think they were for meat.” While renovating, Rote and fiancée Mary Kaufman stripped as many as 15 layers of wallpaper. “She was able in some rooms to find the very first layers, and those were hand blockprinted wallpapers,” Rote says. “She laminated one set so we can show them to people, and we preserved another set in archival paper.” back around, and it’s a semi-flying staircase— Rote’s period furnishings and window and door there’s no wall underneath to support it.” hardware, along with decorative and functional Rote found a banister at a colonial salvage shop ironwork, complete the 19th-century feel. in Richmond, Virginia, that perfectly replaces the original. Details add lightness and grace. Christmas at Morgan House “Features of note in the hall are the scroll-sawn Rote brings a historical sensibility to his holiday wooden appliqué edging on the stair treads,” decorations. “A lot of candles, pine, magnolia reads the 2003 National Register of Historic branches,” he says. Bittersweet wreaths, too. Places nomination. “They grew apples and pears here and they In the parlor, to the left of the entry, kept them in the root cellar, so they used a that heavy mantelpiece took four people to lot of fruit, and if they could get oranges they put back in place. It’s an attention-getter. would decorate them with cloves and get a nice “Strong, squat columns support a very large, accent smell. If you were lucky enough to have simply carved mantel that resembles an pineapples, that was a really big deal.” open book,” reads the National Register Rote receives visitors by appointment. nomination. The Morgans must have loved Also to be seen on the property are the family hosting: A three-hinged-door-wide opening cemetery of 20-some family graves and, nearby, made it easy to connect the parlor with the a 14-foot stone monument erected to David already immense dining room beyond for Morgan in 1899 “directly upon the ground of large gatherings. “The dining room is 30 feet his famous encounter with two Indians.” long, which was probably the length of most “We always think the interesting history houses in that time period,” Rote says. To the happens somewhere else,” Rote says. “But left, the “foot” of the ell holds the servant’s from the mid-1700s, there was a lot going on prep room, and a pass-through in a built-in here.” jimrote@hotmail.com wvliving.com 57
Underground Cinema The success of a tiny subterranean theater in Buckhannon has inspired another in Charleston. written by mary
wade burnside photographed by carla witt ford
live ›› local Buckhannon architect Bryson VanNostrand missed watching exciting cinema in
W
hen potter Kate Harward moved to Belington 40 years ago from Washington, D.C., she missed being able to see hard-hitting independent, documentary, and international films. She began traveling to events such as the Toronto International Film Festival in order to indulge her habit. Then the Lascaux MicroTheater opened in Buckhannon—30 minutes from her home—and Harward had another way to take in the types of movies she loves. “I just like pieces of work that challenge you and enlarge your world,” she says. So does Bryson VanNostrand. The Buckhannon architect left his hometown for schooling. Upon returning, he missed being able to catch a non-Hollywood film in the setting he had enjoyed in larger cities. In 2002, VanNostrand decided to do something about it: He built a micro-theater that seats 40 moviegoers in the basement of
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his office building and began showing films that would never grace the marquee of your local cineplex. “We’ve been open every Friday since, and Friday and Saturday now,” he says. Typically, Lascaux Micro-Theater—the name comes from a town in France with a cave that holds some of the oldest known artworks—shows one film a month, at 7:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. In September, the selection was Werner Herzog’s documentary Lo and Behold, Reveries of the Connected World, which examines the existential impact of the internet and robotics. But sometimes VanNostrand strays from the format. In October he showed Manhattan Short, a collection of brief films, and in November the theater featured a truncated version of the Charleston-based West Virginia International Film Festival (WVIFF), the festival’s third appearance at Lascaux since last fall. VanNostrand and the WVIFF have teamed up for another project: namely, a
his hometown, so he opened a theater in the basement of his office building.
micro-theater designed by the architect that will open in the basement of Taylor Books in Charleston. Underground Cinema, as it will be called, “is a 100-percent stolen idea,” says Emmett Pepper, president of the WVIFF board of directors. “Our perspective is that he’s been able to be successful there for 15 years. If he’s able to do it, we believe Charleston would be able to support the same sort of thing.” The theater, which Pepper hopes will open in late January, also will serve as a second festival venue to the LaBelle Theatre in South Charleston. In Buckhannon, VanNostrand notes, anywhere from five to 40 film lovers might show up for a screening, but the audience usually averages around 20 people. “For us, the best months are January, February, and March,” he says. That also is a good time to take in films that might have been nominated for Oscars. Last year, Harward enjoyed Citizenfour, a documentary about Edward Snowden and the National Security Agency scandal that went on to win the Academy Award for Best Documentary. “We were just so lucky to be able to see that,” she says. “I rarely miss a month.” VanNostrand purposely tries to screen only pictures that have not hit DVD or streaming services. Sometimes he shows older classics, however, such as Andrei Tarkovsky’s 1966 Andrei Rublev or the 1960 Newport Jazz Festival concert film Jazz on a Summer’s Day. Of course, patrons could wait until the newer films come out on a home format, but they will miss the communal aspect of the experience as well as seeing the cinematography on a big screen. “The best time for me is after a film, when patrons linger to discuss their opinions of the characters and storyline,” VanNostrand says. “It really is a community of art lovers who are curious about the world.” To that end, theatergoers also can make an evening of it by grabbing a bite to eat, a drink, or some dessert at the ¾ Cafe, located in the same basement as the theater. For VanNostrand, that adds to the evening. “Going to the movies should be a night out on the town, with good food, drink, and friends. Seeing a movie at Lascaux is like having a drink at Cheers—everyone knows just about everyone else, and it is an intimate group experience.”
home marketplace
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listings From historic houses to picturesque farms to quaint cottages, there’s a special place in West Virginia calling your name. Check out these extraordinary properties from around the state.
SOARING EAGLE CONDO #411, SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT, $450,000 MLS: 10052896
Situated high in the Allegheny Mountains, Soaring Eagle Lodge is the newest way to experience life on Snowshoe Mountain. This incredible 2 bedroom mountaintop condo is spacious enough for year round living. Slate surface floors in baths and kitchen. Exquisite decorator finishes, granite counter tops and jeweled glass tile backsplash. Ski-in, ski-out to the new Dopplemayr quad high speed chairlift right outside the lodge. Many privileges and amenities to owning this condo at Soaring Eagle Lodge.
Howard Hanna Premier Properties by Barbara Alexander, LLC, 304.594.0115 ext. 324
45 ANDOVER STREET, MORGANTOWN, $995,000
MLS: 10110476 Exquisite estate on 2.45 acres near hospital, downtown & Suncrest. 8 bedrooms, 6.5 baths, indoor pool/spa, detached sunroom, 3-car garage, manicured landscaping, patios, privacy.
1701 WATERFRONT PLACE, MORGANTOWN, $2,900,000
MLS: 10096837 Elegant 2-level penthouse living. Imported marble floors, custom imported finishes, theater, private elevator entrance, and over 5,500+/- sq. ft. of terrace areas with 360-degree views!
Howard Hanna Premier Properties by Barbara Alexander, LLC, 304.594.0115 ext. 324
Howard Hanna Premier Properties by Barbara Alexander, LLC, 304.594.0115 ext. 324
2096 LAKESIDE ESTATES., CHEAT LAKE, $850,000
898 MAIN STREET, BEVERLY, $499,000
MLS: 10107000 Exquisite custom designed 5 bedroom, 6.5 bath home on 1.633+/- acres. 7,000+/- sq. ft. of multi-level living. Vaulted ceilings, floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace, and wine cellar with copper ceilings.
Howard Hanna Premier Properties by Barbara Alexander, LLC, 304.594.0115 ext. 324
89 SAND RUN ROAD, TIMBERLINE CANAAN VALLEY, $789,000
MLS: 10107665 Spectacular Canaan Valley estate, custom-built 8 bedroom log home on 10 acres with 4-stall horse barn, pavilion, and 2 ponds. Perfect for corporate retreat or luxury vacation home.
Best of Canaan, Amy Barb, Broker, 304.866.8680
MLS: 10110117 Stunning Queen Anne-style historical home known as the Humboldt Yokum House. Immaculate condition, 3140 sq. ft., 6 bedrooms, sitting on .6278 flat landscaped acres.
Stacey Bartlett, Howard Hanna, 443.604.5351
124 ADAMS STREET, FAIRMONT, $99,880
MLS: 10111651 Why rent when you can own a newly renovated building located in the Historic District of Downtown Fairmont. Renovations include a tin ceiling, schoolhouse chandeliers, hickory and pine floors, a loft, exposed brick, glass block windows, and other upgrades. Total of 855 sq. ft.
Real Estate Plus, LLC, Ruth Ann Morgan, Broker, 304.366.6550
Spreading the
Nordic Dream Right place, right time, right guy, right philosophy: Chip Chase’s White Grass Ski Touring Center and Cafe has hit its stride.
written by Pam Kasey ❄ photographed by Nikki Bowman
I
t’s fair to guess that a lot of Tucker Countians show a distinctive flair on the cross country trail. “I learned to ski from Chip Chase,” says local resident Susan Haywood. “Trying to keep up with him on these night skis—we call them ‘Chippy Carefree Adventure Tours.’” Chase is a compact man, and he bushwhacks, going under brush, and he’s fast. “He’s got a special ability and a unique style. He hops up and down a lot and he’s real animated, like, quick-footed, always going through the trees like a chipmunk.” There’s often a little moonshine involved in these night tours, which Haywood says can steady the nerves or lend courage—though beginners might not sip quite as much as Chase. “I think a lot of people have learned to ski this way,” Haywood says. It’s a common observation that anyone who spends more than a few days in Tucker County runs across Chip Chase, owner of White Grass Ski Touring Center and Cafe in Canaan Valley. “I first met Chip within probably a week of moving here in 1994,” says Haywood. Same for Anne Jones. “The first human I talked to in West Virginia was Chip Chase,” says Jones, executive director of the Tucker County Development Authority. She came to West Virginia to ski in 2007, and she liked it so much she moved here in 2010. “You see him everywhere. You’re at a party and there’s Chip floating by in the background. Or The Black Lillies come to play, and there’s Chip up onstage, doing guest harmonica.” But during ski season, if Chase isn’t skiing at White Grass, he’s greeting skiers. Tucker County can’t be fully appreciated independent of the exuberance of Chip Chase. “He makes this place what it is,” says local entrepreneur Ryan Gaujot, who met Chase at White Grass’s annual Jack Frost season kick-off party in 1999. “He sets the tone and the enthusiasm for the positive atmosphere that folks strive for here. It’s all about getting outside, coming in from the cold, recharging with good food, and doing it again.” Now in its 35th season, White Grass, a quirky reflection of its owner, has become a Tucker County and West Virginia institution.
Spoiling and Being Spoiled
Chase lived in Virginia as a young adult in the late ’70s. He’d grown up skiing all over and had learned cross country in Vermont a couple years earlier. “I felt I could help spread the Nordic dream,” he says—meaning cross country skiing, as opposed to Alpine, or downhill. Chase and a friend, Winslow Ayer, set up trails on Shenandoah Mountain not far from Harrisonburg, Virginia, for the winter of 1979-80. “We were back-tothe-landers, not from the country as kids but fascinated by the fact that you could grow all your own food and your own orchards,” he recalls. “The ski trails augmented income that we had at other seasonal work. We set it up near a place called White Grass Knob, so I named it White Grass. We thought it was a neat little double entendre—lots of people think it means snow.” 66 wvl • winter 2016
“I felt I could help spread the Nordic dream.” chip chase, owner of white grass
STEFAN GUEMPERLEIN; COURTESY OF CHIP CHASE
Chip Chase, owner of White Grass Ski Touring Center, is a Canaan Valley institution. Photos from past decades line the walls at White Grass.
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Skiers and non-skiers alike line up for White Grass Cafe’s delicious gourmet meals and live music.
That Virginia ski season proved too short for their liking, so Chase and Ayer checked out Canaan Valley in West Virginia—the highest valley east of the Mississippi. They leased the former Weiss Knob downhill resort area on a farm that lay up against Cabin Mountain on the valley’s east side, and they opened White Grass Ski Touring Center in December 1981. The Nordic dream was a bit of a hard sell, early on. “It was really mellow and slow. People would say, ‘I’ve done regular skiing,’ or ‘real skiing,’ and I’d say, ‘Real skiing?’” Chase mocks with mischief in his voice. “People even to this day think cross country skiing is racing around and being exhausted and flopping onto the finish line with a gun on your back—the biathlon thing. They’ll say, ‘Isn’t it a lot of work?’ I tell them exercise is terrible for you, that the way to live a long life is to just sit in a chair and don’t move, and they say, ‘I asked the wrong person the wrong question.’” But once people tried cross country skiing, he says, they realized it’s beautiful, it’s challenging but invigorating, and they could enjoy it with their children and their grandparents. “The people who liked it liked it a lot, and they’d bring friends, wives, neighbors, and it grew like that.” In plain ski resort terms, Canaan Valley gets more than 13 feet of snow a year, among the very highest snow totals south
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of New England. White Grass has about 40 miles of trails, around half of that groomed, with a dozen warming huts. And for Nords who like serious terrain, White Grass isn’t so different from the two downhill resorts it lies between, with more than 1,200 feet of rise from 3,220 feet of elevation, some of it above the treeline with wide views of the valley. But in human terms, the country one crosses at White Grass is as charmingly personality-driven as everything else about the resort. The ski trails cross five public and private properties, most of it the Reed family farm. “When we first knew Randall Reed—he’s going on 96 and I met him when he was 59 and I was 27—he said, ‘I don’t know much about skiing, but I know I need some help,’” says Chase, whose original partner has moved on. Most of the year, the Reeds keep black Angus cattle on their 500-plus acres. “We said, ‘Give us a try.’ So we work on the farm year-round. In the winter we take the fences down and do the ski thing, and we put them back up in the spring. We help with haymaking, cows, horses, buildings and roads and weeds and mowing. We’re always willing to do work and extra work and make sure they feel spoiled, because we are spoiled.” It’s a conscious and energetic cultivation of goodwill that ripples out into the community. “You’ll see Chip in the middle of night doing a moonlight
ski, but you’ll also see him at 8 in the morning sweeping the floor, getting the skis tuned, making sure the parking lot is safe for people,” Jones says. “That work ethic, you can’t discount that as a secret to his success.”
Running on Good Times
It’s a big deal for a family with two young ones to be able to drop in at a resort with no equipment and ski the day for $100. That’s part of White Grass’s good-natured business model: Stay true to the fun, and give people really good value. The fun starts with the first-Saturday-in-December Jack Frost “pray for snow” potluck. “Pretty much everybody in the surrounding area shows up—even the downhillers,” says Laurie Little, Chase’s wife. “We serve local brews, and it’s a really good time. Everyone gets psyched about the season.” Jack Frost celebrations have been known to drift well into the next day. Morgantown resident and longtime White Grass skier Adam Polinski remembers hanging around a crackling bonfire some time past midnight with a few dozen others after Jack Frost one year. He was just starting to think about his sleeping bag when Chase suggested a hike a few hundred feet up Weiss Knob Slope to the old lift shack, which everyone decided to join. They all enjoyed the view from 3,600 feet. “Then Chip pointed out that we were
around halfway up to Round Top, and how great would it be if we just all walked on up there?” Polinski remembers. That’s at 4,000 feet. In they end, instigated by Chase, the group hiked up for the view of the stars and valley from Bald Knob, at 4,300 feet. After the long walk back down, Chase led a 4 a.m. raid on the refrigerator at White Grass Cafe. “Even though White Grass is his business, he still made it seem mischievous and hilarious that we were raiding the fridge, as if it were someone else’s and we were getting away with it,” Polinski laughs. Through the season, skiing itself is daily fun. And then there are races. “We have these hash hound events where people chase around and some of them have a head start, not super-competitive,” Chase says. There are Special Olympics and a 25-kilometer ski marathon. “People come from North Carolina, some from Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia for that,” he says. A Groundhog Day ski seeks clues to the rest of winter, and each month finds nightskiers marveling under the full moon. A deeper kind of fun at White Grass involves taking time to appreciate the land. A story Chase likes to tell on his free weekly Natural History Snowshoe Discovery Tours is about the Davis Power Project that aimed to flood Canaan Valley for hydropower. “It was one of the longest wvliving.com 69
environmental battles of its day,” he recounts. “They were issued a permit in the ’70s. They just needed permission from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to do dredge-and-fill here in Canaan Valley, the largest wetland in the state. It was going to be flooded and ruined forever—but the Clean Water Act came through and saved it.” Meanwhile, the National Park Service noticed wetland plants more typical of New England and Canada and designated the valley a National Natural Landmark. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service then created the Canaan Valley National Wildlife Refuge, from a start of 90 acres in 1994 to nearly 17,000 today. “We’re really lucky—it nearly went the other way.” Fun usually involves food, and White Grass Cafe’s reputation for gourmet, vegetarian-friendly fare sometimes lines skiers up out the door. “When you’re out skiing and it’s really cold and then there’s hot food, it tastes better than ever,” jokes Little, who runs the cafe. “But people do love it, because we make everything pretty much from scratch.” The daily lunch menu includes four or five soups, several paninis, and a nacho platter with White Grass’s vegetarian chili that’s said to rival any meat-based version. “We also make our own salad dressings, and in recent years we’ve been able to get local, fresh greens in winter,” she says. Friday and Saturday night dinners feature an ever-changing menu of appetizers and entrees. “We have a lot of good cooks, and we let people create. That’s probably what makes it so good,” Little says. In the 2016-17 season, the cafe will sell its fresh hummus, salsa, and some soups to go for the first time. And in summers, it offers catering. Part of the dinner scene is free live music, usually string bands. “People who are up-and-coming and really want to get gigs, they’re the type that play here. Some of them travel a ways,” Little says of the bluegrass-centered but eclectic mix that can include, in a given season, West Virginia favorites like the Ginsangers, Jesse Milnes, and Scott Prouty. “Some are just good friends that like to play here because it’s a great little place and has a good vibe.” And all of that fun—skiing, learning, eating, and toetapping—goes farther if people can afford to join in. “We stay super affordable, maybe to kind of rub it in the nose of the Alpine industry,” Chase says. “Not around here, but internationally, it’s super expensive, and we wanted to be super cheap.” Day-use at White Grass is the best bargain around, at $20 for adults and $5 for kids under 12. Rentals and season passes are similarly reasonable. The best deal of all is a “free trade” program for kids: Buy one pair of skis for $250 and trade up for free every year, then pay no more than $150 to get into an adult pair. White Grass’s agreement with the Reeds—work for rent and don’t expand the built footprint—keeps costs way down. But low-key is also a management style and a lifestyle choice. “I spent 10 years homesteading before White Grass, so I was into making a lot of things happen without a lot of cash,” Chase says. “We put the money into staff and into machinery that runs well, and we try to improve things for our employees and definitely for our customers. I probably could have made more doing this whole thing, looking back, but I keep my lifestyle mellow and I’m doing fine.” 70 wvl • winter 2016
Today’s White Grass lodge is the original Weiss downhill lodge from the ’50s and ’60s, and it’s notably cozy. From time to time, Jones at the development authority says, a skier pulls Chase aside and suggests he could really make the place great by adding condos or a snowmaker. “Some people don’t want that sense of authenticity,” she says. “He gently tells them, ‘Maybe there’s another place you’d rather be.’”
A Magic Winter Kingdom
White Grass is still a best-kept secret, at 5,000 to 10,000 visits a year depending on the snow. “It’s such a small slice of winter up here in the valley. I’m trying to rewrite the history of the town of Davis to where it was settled by the Andersens and the Larsens instead of the
STEVE LLOYD PHOTOGRAPHY
Just about everyone who visits White Grass meets Chase. “My main job now is to greet people, be friendly, walk you to your car. I make sure everybody’s happy.”
DiBaccos and the Colabrese brothers,” Chase dreams out loud. “If it had been Scandinavians, you’d have a ski jump at every house and everybody would be five generations of skiers, and winter would be everybody’s favorite season.” But some days it’s obvious the Nordic dream has taken hold in Canaan Valley. “We don’t advertise much, but we kind of have a monopoly for many miles and we’re super, super serious into it and we’re full-service—you can get really good telemark gear, fantastic snowshoes, kids’ things, we have it all,” Chase says. The small lodge gets busy in recent years, but service is fast, because people waiting in line is one of his pet peeves. “We actually greet you in the parking lot, and before you even get in the door we have things prepared for you. Even on the busiest day we’re pretty quick getting you out skiing if that’s what you want.”
And there’s always peace out on the trails. “Everybody braids out into the mountain in different ways,” he says. “You might be behind somebody, but if they’re a few curves ahead of you you might never see them. And if you stay off the most popular trails, you’re likely not going to see anybody.” Chase urges people to ski the cross country resorts all over the region— Pennsylvania, Maryland—but he makes the case for White Grass. “A lot of those ski areas are really great, and sometimes the weather up there is better,” he says. “But most don’t have the coffee house–lodge thing we have, with music and wood stoves and really good food. Hanging out, talking to each other is a whole part of the experience. A lot of people say, ‘I’ve never been to a ski lodge like this, where I didn’t even want to go skiing.’” Avid skiers from other regions who move to D.C. for part of their careers use White Grass for their fixes, Chase says. “When they move back home, they write and say, ‘We miss you—there’s nothing like White Grass here,’ and everybody keeps in touch.” Cross country skiing changes one’s life, in Chase’s view. “When people say, ‘We’ve got some bad weather coming in, you say, ‘You mean good weather?’ All your favorite places are transformed into this magic winter kingdom—your farm, where you hunt. It’s ethereal. It might be for just a week, a weekend, a day, but it’s aesthetic and spiritual, an inward thing. It can just be one ski that’s so special the way the snowflakes fell on your sleeve, the ice, the cracking of the woods, the way the wind sounded. It’s a memory. “I’m not a very smart person but you’re going to have winter every year, I think—you may as well get into it.” wvliving.com 71
Helping the Healers
Since its founding more than 40 years ago, The West Virginia School of Osteopathic Medicine has been training doctors for service in rural communities.
ZACK HAROLD
written by Zack Harold
Z
ane Dennison was the kid who was always going to do something special with his life. Clean-cut, respectful, and respectable, he got good grades during his time at Braxton County High and was especially talented at math and science. When he thought of his future, “it was either going to be engineering or medicine,” he says. He eventually started leaning toward the latter and, after graduation, he headed to Fairmont State to study biology and chemistry. He volunteered with the local emergency medical service, eventually earning his emergency medical technician certification. He thought about studying to become a paramedic, but realized he wouldn’t be satisfied just leaving patients at the hospital doors. Dennison decided to become a doctor. It’s the kind of beginning that could lead anywhere—a big city medical school or even a West Coast tech startup. But like so many West Virginians, Dennison could not shake the pull of home. He wanted to find a way to stay among the people and places he loves while also making a difference. Then, one day on campus, he met a recruiter from the West Virginia School of Osteopathic Medicine (WVSOM) in Lewisburg who convinced Dennison to drive down and tour the campus. He did, and was immediately sold. “I just knew that’s where I wanted to go. I didn’t apply anywhere else,” he says. When it came time for Dennison to meet with an admissions panel at WVSOM, he laid out his plans for the future in bold terms. “I was born here and I’m going to die here,” he says. “I want to do backwoods medicine, see patients in the clinic and in the ER, and, at church on Sunday, do a follow-up.” That was exactly what the administrators wanted to hear because, as much as Dennison hoped to attend WVSOM, he was exactly the kind of student the school was looking for.
Is There a DO-ctor in the House?
76 wvl • winter 2016
the early 1970s,” Nemitz says. That’s why four primary care doctors—Carlton Apgar, O.J. Bailes, Donald Newell, and Frank Wallington—purchased the campus of the former Greenbrier Military School in 1972 to open an osteopathic medical school. “Since its inception, it’s been part of the mission to train docs for service in rural communities,” says Patti Crawford, the school’s director for outreach. The school has produced more than 3,000 graduates since 1978. Of those, 758 are practicing in West Virginia— nearly 600 in primary care practices, and nearly 400 in rural communities. WVSOM ranks fifth in the nation for the percentage of graduates who enter primary care specialties, according to U.S. News & World Report, and first in the nation for graduating physicians who practice in rural areas, according to the journal Academic Medicine. “What we’re doing here, we’re doing right,” Nemitz says.
The West Virginia School of Osteopathic Medicine’s Clinical Evaluation Center features patient simulators that allow students to test their skills in life-like scenarios, even before they’re ready to work with real patients.
SCOTT HOLSTEIN
Primary care doctors are not easy to come by in many West Virginia communities. Thirty-eight of the state’s 55 counties are designated “health professional shortage areas” by the federal government. That means, in those areas, there are more than 3,500 people for every single primary care physician. “The need is huge,” says Dr. Jim Nemitz, WVSOM’s vice president for administration and external relations. Demand for primary care doctors is increasing with time, too, as more residents get health insurance through the Affordable Care Act and baby boomers age into senior citizens. This latter factor presents a double-whammy— not only are patients getting older and needing more care, but the state’s supply of doctors is aging into retirement. So while the number of primary care physicians in West Virginia rose 30 percent from 2008 to 2015—with more than 430 doctors setting up shop around the state—that trend must increase to meet the demands of the future. This is not news to the folks at WVSOM. “The founders of the school recognized we had this problem in
PAT BAUSERMAN
WVSOM’s Osteopathic Clinical Skills Lab is where the students learn osteopathic manipulative therapy, one of the main practices that sets osteopathic physicians, or DOs, apart from allopathic doctors, or MDs.
The school’s success in training rural physicians begins with recruiting the right kinds of students. The school has developed a series of pipeline programs, like anatomy lab tours and pharmacology camps for high school students. There’s a “green coat” program for undergraduate college students interested in medical school, where participants work 10 to 20 hours per week at a rural hospital, shadowing physicians and other health care professionals. “This is an opportunity to make this connection,” says Janet Hinton, coordinator for WVSOM’s Rural Health Initiative. “And they get a taste of what it’s like.” When students apply to WVSOM, the school’s admissions process favors applicants who express an interest in primary care, and especially those who are interested in working in rural communities. And once they begin attending classes, the school does everything possible to encourage students to pursue primary care specialties. “They’re surrounded by primary care role models. I think that has an influence,” Nemitz says. Although every third- and fourth-year student at WVSOM is required to devote three months to rotations at rural hospitals and clinics as part of the school’s “statewide campus” system, students who are especially interested in rural medicine can apply to be part of the school’s Rural Health Initiative at the end of their first year. The program accepts 12 to 18 students each year who each receive physician mentors, scholarships, and financial support for travel expenses and housing during their rotations.
RHI students help with community outreach activities in their second year and then, in their third year, have the opportunity to participate in multiple field experiences where they receive specialized training in industries like timber, agriculture, oil, gas, and wilderness medicine. During a course on coal mining, for instance, students attend safety training and then go underground into a mine, where they learn about the jobs in a mine to better understand ailments working conditions might cause. The most important thing WVSOM does to prepare students for work in the state’s less traveled areas, however, is to train them in the philosophy of osteopathic medicine. The practice originated in Kirksville, Missouri, in the 1870s with Dr. Andrew Taylor Still. He had grown frustrated by medical practices of the day—like bloodletting and dosing patients with mercury—which he rightly recognized were doing more harm than good. Still pioneered a new approach to doctoring that focused on preventive medicine and the body’s ability to heal itself. Today, DOs, as doctors of osteopathy are called, make up roughly 20 percent of primary care doctors in the United States. In West Virginia, 63 percent of primary care doctors are DOs. They receive largely the same training and licensure as allopathic doctors, or MDs, but DOs also receive training in “osteopathic manipulative treatment,” where doctors diagnosis and treat ailments through gentle pressure, stretching, resistance, and other physical contact. wvliving.com 77
And unlike allopathic medicine, osteopathic medicine also considers their patients’ emotional and spiritual wellbeing in addition to their physical conditions. “You’re not just treating a symptom. You’re not just treating an ailment. You’re treating the whole person,” says Crawford, the WVSOM outreach director. It turns out this all-encompassing approach to medicine is uniquely suited for rural medicine because, doctors are often more than just health care providers in their chosen communities. They’re also role models, mentors, and coaches, and their practices are not limited to the walls of the exam room.
The Doctor Will See You Now
If you’re waiting to see Dr. Robert Snuffer, you’re probably going to be waiting a while. Snuffer is always busy, and he’s always behind. It’s not that he’s inconsiderate or inefficient, though—Snuffer just has lots of patients, and is known to take his time with each one. “It makes for some long visits. But a lot of times, that makes a big difference to people,” he says. His patients seldom complain about the wait because they know, when their time eventually comes, Snuffer will take just as long as he needs with them, too. He devotes each Friday to house calls for patients who are too sick or are otherwise unable to get to his clinic, Weston Family Medical Care. And he continues doctoring outside office hours. “My kids hate to go to Walmart with me,” he says. “(Patients) call me, they come to my house. I’ve got guys that bring their bear dogs by sometimes, if it’s a Sunday afternoon and there’s no vet open. That’s what happens in a small town. It’s part of being in the community.” Snuffer came to medicine as a second career, after serving in the Army and then becoming a physical therapist. He worked his way into a job as director of physical therapy at Stonewall Jackson Memorial Hospital in Weston. But 78 wvl • winter 2016
CARLA WITT FORD
Dr. Robert Snuffer demonstrates osteopathic manipulations for WVSOM student Aaron Lee Haag, who is doing a rotation with Snuffer’s clinic, Weston Family Care.
he became frustrated by what he saw as indifference in some doctors at the hospital. Snuffer decided he could do better. He applied to WVSOM because of the school’s focus on rural medicine, and because he was intrigued by osteopathy’s emphasis on treating the whole person. “I have a lot of people who come to see me because I recognize their divorce is what’s causing their back pain. You can’t have good physical health if you don’t have good mental and spiritual health.” Now, in addition to treating his patients, Snuffer is committed to passing on the skills he’s learned to a new generation of WVSOM students. He says he wants students to realize medicine is more than just book learning—to be a successful physician, a doctor must possess both technical expertise and interpersonal skills. “I tell my students, very few jobs allow you to go home and say ‘Somebody’s better off because I went to work today.’” Weston Family Medical Care is a regular stop for students doing their rural rotations, and Snuffer takes great pride in making sure they get their hands dirty. “Students are enamored with the thought of being a doctor. So what I do is, I put them in there and say ‘OK, Doctor. This one’s yours.’ It’s scary,” he says. He’s been known to have them examine patients, formulate diagnoses, and make plans for treatment. Snuffer holds their hands through the process—the students aren’t really doctors yet, after all. But he believes it’s important for students to get hands-on experience before they get those coveted intials in front of their names. “You can’t learn to be a doctor if you don’t do doctor stuff,” he says. Snuffer says his interest in teaching comes from his time at WVSOM and the mentors he had there. “They taught me how to take care of people instead of just doing medicine.” Now, he wants to provide that same guidance to young doctors-in-training. Zane Dennison, who’s now in his third year at the medical school and a member of the RHI program, spent eight weeks at Snuffer’s clinic in summer 2016. “He’s what I want to be,” he says. Dennison still remembers a woman who came into the office one day during his rotation. “She’s been through the wringer with her back problems and some knee things. We just did some manipulation on her that we’d learned from school, and her pain was gone,” he says. “It hits you—this is why I’m doing this. You get to see positive change in somebody’s life, right now.” Next year, Dennison will go to “audition rotations” to determine where he’ll spend his residency after med school. He’s considering United Hospital Center in Bridgeport, where Snuffer did residency. Dennison says he’s not sure what he’ll do after completing his residency training. He still holds to the plan he spelled out for WVSOM’s admissions panel. “The dream would be to come back home to Braxton County. I would love to see a hospital put a small clinic here in the county,” he says. “It’s a lot of work. I’m just a student, but even now it’s a lot of work. It’s a lot of sacrifice. But that’s your reward. People depend on you.”
wvliving.com 79
T he
V
oters from all over West Virginia and beyond cast their ballots. We tallied the results. And now, the people have spoken once again. WV Living proudly presents the fourth annual Best of West Virginia Awards. You’ll find lots of familiar favorites along with plenty of first-time winners. Keep an eye out for our new categories, too. There’s a good chance your new favorite thing is within these pages.
BEST BAKERY
PURPLE FIDDLE
BEST
MUSIC Since it opened in an old general store in 2001, VENUE the Purple Fiddle has drawn music lovers from rural outposts and urban centers in all directions to hear the biggest names in Appalachian folk music. The mouth-watering menu, alwaysevolving beer selection, and feel-good atmosphere have made this Thomas venue a community gathering spot and an anchor for one of West Virginia’s liveliest arts communities. 96 East Avenue, Thomas; 304.463.4040; purplefiddle.com
SPRING HILL PASTRY SHOP You won’t find fancy coffee drinks at Spring Hill Pastry. This South Charleston institution’s whole goal is to get you going with tasty, fresh-made cookies, cakes, and other pastries. Try one of its famous “hot dogs,” which are like stretched-out doughnuts filled with cream and topped with powdered sugar and, if you’d like, chocolate. 600 Chestnut Street, Charleston; 304.768.7397 springhillpastry.com RUNNERS-UP
PHOENIX BAKERY First runner-up in this year’s voting is Phoenix Bakery of Morgantown, which has won legions of fans with gourmet pizzas, fresh-baked breads, biscotti, scones, and more. 89 Kingwood Street, Morgantown; 304.381.4772 facebook.com/phoenixbakerywv
COUNTRY CLUB BAKERY Second runner-up was Country Club Bakery, a Fairmont institution that gave West Virginia its unofficial state dish—the pepperoni roll. 1211 Country Club Road, Fairmont; 304.363.5690
BEST ELIZABETH ROTH; NIKKI BOWMAN; CARLA WITT FORD
BBQ JOINT
RUNNER-UP
123 PLEASANT STREET This year’s runner-up is Morgantown’s 123 Pleasant Street, a venue continuing a three-decade tradition in a historic venue with an eclectic mix of local and national, established, and rising performers. 123 Pleasant Street, Morgantown; 304.292.0800; 123pleasantstreet.com
ATOMIC GRILL When readers pick your restaurant three years in a row, you know you’re doing something right. Atomic Grill continues to make the best barbecue in West Virginia. The restaurant offers a wide variety of fresh-smoked entrees including pork ribs, brisket, pulled pork, pulled chicken, or Tofu-beque. Barbecue platters are served with Texas toast, fries, collard greens, and homemade “West Virginia sauce.” 595 Green Bag Road, Morgantown; 304.241.1170 facebook.com/atomicgrill
wvliving.com 81
TAMARACK
BEST HIDDEN GEM TOWN
THURMOND With population five at last official count, Thurmond is just this side of a ghost town. A hundred years ago, it was a Chesapeake & Ohio Railway boomtown. The depot at Thurmond is said to have served nearly 100,000 passengers a year, and it handled more coal, timber, and other freight than Richmond, Virginia, and Cincinnati, Ohio, combined. Like many places that tried to force teetotalling, the “dry” town spawned a more colorful hotel and saloon just outside the town limits that is recognized by Ripley’s Believe it Or Not for hosting the longest-running card party, at 14 years. In Thurmond’s heyday, more than 400 people lived there. But shops, hotels, banks, and other businesses closed as the Great Depression, and later the diesel locomotive, reversed the town’s fortunes. Today, Thurmond lies within the boundaries of the National Park Service’s New River Gorge National River. The NPS is stabilizing and gradually rehabilitating other structures around town. The restored depot is open June through August as a visitor center, and a downloadable walking tour brochure helps visitors enjoy the town yearround. 304.465.8550; nps.gov, search “Thurmond” RUNNERS-UP
BEST PLACE TO BUY
It has been a banner year for WV-MADE Tamarack: 2016 marks its 20th year, PRODUCTS and the second year in a row it has won “Best Place to Buy West Virginiamade Products.” Tamarack was the first of its kind, as the nation’s first state-run artisan center and gallery. With beautifully landscape grounds and that iconic red roof, it still lures passing drivers off Interstate 64 to check it out themselves. Known as “The Best of West Virginia,” Tamarack earns its nickname by drawing half a million visitors each year. The center sells more West Virginia-made products than anywhere else in the state. The original and handmade inventory ranges from jewelry and pottery to musical instruments and homemade specialty food items. Visitors can also peek into the studios of Tamarack’s resident artisans to watch them work. One Tamarack Park, Beckley; 304.256.6843; tamarackwv.com RUNNERS-UP
WV MARKETPLACE This year’s runner-up is the WV Marketplace at Charleston’s Capitol Market. Here, you can find West Virginia-made products including candles, jams and jellies, handmade baskets, wooden utensils, pottery, puzzles, pet treats, snack foods, and more. If it’s made in the Mountain State, WV Marketplace probably has it. 800 Smith Street, Charleston; 304.720.2244; capitolmarket.net
BEST BOOKSTORE
WARDENSVILLE
MATEWAN This little town at the state’s southwestern border offers both history, with the Hatfield-McCoy feud and the infamous Matewan Massacre that helped spawn the labor movement, and recreation, with kayaking, biking, and the popular Hatfield-McCoy ATV trails. historicmatewan.com 82 wvl • winter 2016
TAYLOR BOOKS Known to Charlestonians as “Taylor’s,” this downtown storefront is many things to many people: coffee shop, meeting space, music venue, art gallery, art studio, and, soon, indie movie theater. But the printed word is still king at Taylor Books. Visitors will find a wide selection of new titles and classics along with a well-stocked magazine rack. When it’s time to make room for new reads, the used book section allows customers to trade in their old tomes for store credit. 226 Capitol Street, Charleston; 304.342.1461; taylorbooks.com
NIKKI BOWMAN (3); CARLA WITT FORD (2)
Highlands-meets-metro in this gentrifying village less than two hours’ drive from Washington, D.C. Go for the scenery and recreation, stay for the shopping, dining, and hospitality. wardensville.net
BEST FAMILY ADVENTURE
ACE ADVENTURE RESORT; WV TOURISM
ACE ADVENTURE RESORT ACE Adventure Resort built its business on whitewater rafting in the New River Gorge, and rafting is still a big draw for the company. But as the gorge has become more and more popular for adventure-seeking families, ACE has added lots of additional activities that will keep kids of all ages entertained. Visitors can customize their whitewater rafting trips depending on experience level and penchant for adventure—pick among full- or half-day trips on “mild,” “wild,” “wilder, and “wildest” stretches of the New and Gauley rivers. There’s still more wet, wild fun to be had at ACE’s 5-acre Wonderland Water Park, which features water slides, ziplines, and inflatable toys, including the ever-popular “Blob.” ACE also offers one of today’s hottest outdoor watersports, stand-up paddleboarding, on the New River or nearby Summersville Lake. Another big draw is the zipline canopy tour, with nine lines and two skybridges. For an added thrill, try the nighttime canopy tour: flying through the trees with only a headlamp to light the way. It’s more than enough for a jam-packed weekend of family fun, but you wouldn’t have a difficult time filling a full week at ACE Adventure Resort. It also offers a 21-hole disc golf course, kayaking, mountain biking, rock climbing and rappelling, paintball, caving tours, and more. 1 Concho Road, Minden; 800.787.3982 aceraft.com
BEST TOURIST DRAW
BRIDGE DAY
Three years after West Virginia completed the New River Gorge Bridge—then the world’s longest steel single-span arch bridge—the state invited people to jump off of it. Now, each October, BASE jumpers come from all over for Bridge Day. Daredevils also rappel from the bridge into the valley below. It all provides a great show for the thousands of eager spectators who crowd onto the bridge to watch these extreme athletes in action. officialbridgeday.com wvliving.com 83
BEST BRUNCH
BEST
Fresh, high-quality ingredients are the name of the game at Bluegrass Kitchen. This is especially true at brunch. Enjoy Eggs Benedict featuring West Virginia-smoked ham or vegetarian bacon, or lox with bagels baked fresh at Bluegrass’s sister restaurant Starlings Coffee & Provisions. A customer favorite is the homemade potato cakes with red bell pepper and green onion, fried crispy and served with sour cream and a side of organic granola and yogurt.
Although the business is only two years old, Black Cat Emporium is now a two-time winner in the “Best Antique/Vintage Store” category. Rooms of antique furniture, architectural salvage, and odd trinkets wait to become a part of your home. The owner, Terry Galentine, doesn’t like to stare at the same old stuff, so deals are made and merchandise doesn’t stay long. Black Cat closed its Star City location in late 2016, but has plans to reopen in 2017 on the historic Midland Trail. Stay tuned to the shop’s website and Facebook page for details.
By combining sand, soda ash, and lime— and then adding color, heat, breath, and an expertise honed over 40 years— glassblower Ron Hinkle creates distinctive vases, candy dishes, ornamental pieces, and his signature glass Hershey Kisses. The pieces swirl with unique colorscapes of purples, reds, blues, and greens. Hinkle has been making glass since high school, opening his own shop in 1993 after working at Louie Glass Company in Weston for about 20 years. He dubbed his studio Dying Art Glass Works—his son eventually convinced him to change the moniker, so the shop is now known as Ron Hinkle Glass. Visitors can still visit his studio, located just south of Buckhannon on the land where Hinkle grew up, to watch him use a blowpipe to shape glowing globs into decorative glass. But take a look at his online schedule before planning a visit—a few years ago, Hinkle became vice president of operations at Blenko Glass Company in Milton and now spends several days a week at the world-renowned Cabell County institution.
facebook.com/blackcatemporiumauctions
ronhinkle.com
1600 Washington Street East, Charleston; 304.346.2871; bluegrasswv.com RUNNER-UP
BLACK SHEEP BURRITO AND BREWS Another favorite for Charleston brunch-goers, here you’ll find remixed versions of traditional brunch fare, like waffles topped with Cheerio-coated fried chicken or whiskey cream French toast. 702 Quarrier Street, Charleston; 304.343.2739; blacksheepwv.com
BEST ANTIQUE STORE
84 wvl • winter 2016
RON HINKLE GLASS
BLACK CAT EMPORIUM
NIKKI BOWMAN (2); CARLA WITT FORD
BLUEGRASS KITCHEN
ARTIST/ ARTISAN
BEST BED AND BREAKFAST
BEST FINE DINING
BEST CHEF
CARLA WITT FORD
CAFE CIMINO COUNTRY INN You can cross off three “Best of West Virginia” winners in one fell swoop, just by visiting the Cafe Cimino Country Inn in Sutton. In 1999, Washington, Pennsylvania, native Tim Urbanic and his wife, Melody, decided to try out some of his grandmother’s Italian recipes in a Sutton restaurant they named Cafe Cimino, a nod to his grandmother’s married name. The eatery drew diners from around the state, as both a destination and a roadside stop for drivers travelling Interstate 79. In 2007, the Urbanics moved to a new site just down the road on the banks of the Elk River and opened a 10-room hotel, including guest houses and bungalows that offer more privacy and space. Still capitalizing on their centralized location, Cafe Cimino Country Inn now attracts visitors who want to kayak or fish on the Elk River, explore the New River Gorge or Helvetia, or maybe shop in antique stores and check out the Trans-
Allegheny Lunatic Asylum in Weston. And when guests return to the hotel for the evening, they can enjoy the food Urbanic learned to prepare from family members who had immigrated from San Giovanni in Fiore in the province of Calabria, such as Shellfish Pescatore or pasta tossed with sun-dried tomatoes, feta, garlic, pine nuts, and fresh basil. Urbanic and new executive chef Oscar Aguilar source many ingredients from Calhoun County farmers the Urbanics know from their days as back-to-the-landers. Their son Eli also pitches in to make his chocolate hazelnut torte cake, a dessert rivaled only by the restaurant’s crème brûlée, which is made with local eggs. Servers are ready to suggest wine pairings or one of the new specialty cocktails like the Braxton County Monster Mojito or the Monster Martini. 616 Main Street, Sutton; 304.765.2913 cafeciminocountryinn.com
RUNNER-UP, BEST BED AND BREAKFAST
STONEHOUSE BED & BREAKFAST The proprietors of runner-up Stonehouse Bed & Breakfast can boast of a whole lot of history right in their Harpers Ferry backyard. Chris Corder opened Stonehouse in 2009, and now he and his wife, Liesel, work hard to make their guests feel at home in what they call a “doilyfree environment,” where Chris cooks hearty breakfasts using his grandmother’s recipes. Guests usually arrive with their own itineraries, but if not, the Corders are happy to point them in the direction of some fun—which can include learning about abolitionist John Brown, walking or biking on the Appalachian Trail or C&O Canal towpath, or splashing around in the Potomac or Shenandoah river. 156 High Street, Harpers Ferry; 304.460.9550 hfstonehouse.com wvliving.com 85
BEST ARTS
TOWN
BEST WINERY
Forks of Cheat Winery We don’t have the space to cover all the hip happenings in West Virginia’s capital city, but here’s a quick rundown. On Sunday nights, head over to the Culture Center for a taping of West Virginia Public Broadcasting’s nationally syndicated Mountain Stage radio show, which features some of the biggest names in Americana music. You’ll also find live music at clubs like The Empty Glass and The Boulevard Tavern and, if it’s a summer Friday night, head down to Haddad Riverfront Park for the Live on the Levee concert series. Music isn’t the only game in town, however. The Charleston Ballet offers regular performances of classic ballets, while theater groups like the Charleston Light Opera Guild and the Kanawha Players stage a variety of musicals and dramas throughout the year. In addition to concerts by music legends like Bob Dylan and Aretha Franklin and performances by the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra, The Clay Center also hosts touring productions of Broadway hits. The West Virginia International Film Festival now includes both a spring and a fall festival, featuring indie films from around the world, and next year will introduce a micro-theater to downtown Charleston. The visual arts get their due, too. Charleston hosts several art galleries, and ArtWalk turns downtown Charleston into a big, walkable art gallery every third Thursday from March through December. But the crown jewel of arts in Charleston is FestivALL, the annual celebration where the city “becomes a work of art.” For two weeks each June, venues around town host all kinds of art, drama, music, and dance shows. charlestonwv.com 86 wvl • winter 2016
2811 Stewartstown Road, Morgantown; 304.598.2019; wvwines.com
The Wild Bean Roger and Heather Dolan’s Wild Bean in Lewisburg has been a community favorite since 2006. Their coffee menu consists of organic, fair-trade, bird-friendly, and Rainforest Alliancecertified selections. Floyd, Virginia, company Red Rooster Coffee provides the beans for their organic espresso blends, and if coffee isn’t your thing, the café also offers more than 40 whole-leaf teas, fruit smoothies, tea lattes, and iced teas. A full-service breakfast and lunch menu includes wraps, bagels, and other baked goods.
BEST COFFEEHOUSE
119 East Washington Street Lewisburg; 304.645.3738 thewildbrew.com RUNNERS-UP
Moxxee First runner-up in this category is Moxxee in Charleston, last year’s winner, which remains a favorite for capital city caffeine junkies. 301 Morris St, Charleston; moxxeecoffee.com
Joe N’ Throw Co-Op Second runner-up is Fairmont favorite coffee shop and pottery studio Joe N’ Throw Co-Op. 323 1/2 Adams Street, Fairmont; 304.816.4390; facebook.com/joe.n.throw
AMPD PHOTOGRAPHY; AMBERLEE CHRISTIE PHOTOGRAPHY; NIKKI BOWMAN
CHARLESTON
New wineries keep popping up all over West Virginia, but Morgantown’s Forks of Cheat— established in the summer of 1990—still manages to come out on top year after year. The winery, which is surrounded by fields of grapes, beckons visitors to tour the grounds or sit in the tasting room and try an extensive variety of wines. Those range from the red Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and new Redbud to a large selection of fruit wines, the specialty Spice Wine, and owner Jerry Deal’s signature Bad Cat Catawba, easily recognizable by the motorcycle-driving kitty on the label.
BEST STATE PARK
BLACKWATER FALLS STATE PARK West Virginia has no shortage of beautiful state parks. But for a fourth year running, our readers have voted Blackwater Falls State Park—long proposed for a national park—the state’s best. It’s easy to see why. Overlooks Breathtaking Lindy Point offers spectacular views of chimney-like rock formations and Blackwater Canyon far below. Nearby Pendleton Point reveals the canyon’s widest and deepest spot. Smaller Falls Drive or hike to Pendleton Falls, downriver from the park’s boating lake, and Elakala Falls, a charming series of smaller cascades.
NIKKI BOWMAN; REBECCA DEVONO
BLACKWATER FALLS STATE PARK Once again, Living campers say Blackwater Falls State Park is the one to beat. The Aprilthrough-October, 65-unit tent and trailer campground has a bathhouse with hot showers and a laundromat. The park offers campers a nature center, bicycle and boat rentals, miles of trails, fishing and boating, and the iconic 60-foot falls, along with several lesser-known falls. All that and great dining and entertainment in nearby Thomas and Davis make it the Best of West Virginia! blackwaterfalls.com
BEST CAMPGROUND
The Main Attraction A state and national icon, the frothing, 60-foot Blackwater Falls, stained by tannic acid from the region’s hemlock and spruce forest, mesmerizes hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. The falls may be seen from several platforms a short hike from the lodge. Go early for an intimate view of the popular cascade. Cabins The park offers 39 cabins with stone fireplaces year-round. Snow Winter is half the fun. There’s snowshoeing, cross-country skiing with lessons and equipment rentals, and a warming hut with hot drinks and soups—but don’t miss the quarter-mile sled run with its 1,400-foot conveyor, said to be the longest in the U.S. And the frozen falls is a sight not to be missed. blackwaterfalls.com wvliving.com 87
BEST RESORT
BEST PLACE TO PLAY GOLF
The Greenbrier is the kind of resort that doesn’t exist in many places anymore. It offers plenty of opportunities to enjoy old-school opulence in its well-appointed rooms, luxurious lobbies, mineral spa, and James Bond-esque casino. And don’t pass up the wide variety of dining options. Enjoy fine dining in The Greenbrier’s dining room, Mediterranean cuisine at Cafe Carleton, Italian favorites at The Forum, dishes from the Pacific Rim at In-Fusion, and delicious steaks and seafood at Jerry West’s Prime 44 steakhouse. But The Greenbrier also embodies that Victorian urge to get out and experience the great outdoors. The resort offers a variety of activities for the whole family, including archery, off-roading excursions, fishing trips, and falconry, the centuries-old practice of hunting with the aid of birds of prey. There’s the Greenbrier Gun Club, where you’ll find trap and skeet fields as well as a 10-station sporting clays course. And, depending on the season, The Greenbrier also offers upland bird hunting as well as world-class waterfowl hunting excursions. All hunts include transportation,
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guides, and hunting dogs. The resort can even provide your guns and ammunition, if needed. Of course, one of the biggest outdoor activities at The Greenbrier is golf. President Woodrow Wilson was among the first people to play on the Old White TPC, the resort’s first 18-hole golf course. Now home to The Greenbrier Classic, a regular stop on the PGA’s FedEx Cup tour, the course has hosted some of the world’s best golfers, including Tiger Woods and Bubba Watson. The Greenbrier isn’t just the best place to play golf in West Virginia—for years it was the only place to play golf in the United States. The resort’s Oakhurst Links was the first golf course designed and built in America. Today, players still compete with period-appropriate balls and wooden golf clubs, and if you really want to go all-in, 19th century golfing knickers, socks, wool caps, shirts, and ties are available in the Oakhurst Links golf shop. 300 West Main Street, White Sulphur Springs; 855.453.4858 greenbrier.com
NIKKI BOWMAN
THE GREENBRIER
BEST BREWERY
MOUNTAIN STATE BREWING COMPANY
A staple of West Virginia’s craft brewery scene, Mountain State Brewing Company is now our readers’ four-time pick for the best locally brewed beer in the state. Based in Thomas, the company also operates pubs in Morgantown and Deep Creek Lake, Maryland. But brewing isn’t its only specialty. The flame-grilled flatbread pizza goes great with Mountain State’s Miner’s Daughter Oatmeal Stout or Cold Trail Ale. Mountain State brews are also distributed at more than 35 bars and restaurants across West Virginia and Maryland. 1 Nelson Boulevard, Thomas; 304.463.4500 54 Clay Street, Morgantown; 304.241.1976 6690 Sang Run Road, McHenry, MD, 301.387.3360; mountainstatebrewing.com RUNNERS-UP
CHARLESTON BREWING COMPANY First runner up in this category is Charleston Brewing Company— soon to be renamed Bad Shepherd Brewing Company. 304.343.2739; blacksheepwv.com
GREENBRIER VALLEY BREWING COMPANY The second runner up is Greenbrier Valley Brewing Company in Maxwelton, known for its Devil Anse IPA, Wild Trail Pale Ale, and Mothman IPA. 304.520.4669; gvbeer.com
BEST PLACE TO EXPERIENCE
CARLA WITT FORD; NIKKI BOWMAN; ELIZABETH ROTH
FALL
BEST COOL PLACE TO SPEND THE NIGHT
GERMANY VALLEY OVERLOOK CABINS At more than 3,000 feet in elevation, the Germany Valley Overlook Cabins in Pendleton County almost ensures a cool place to sleep—literally. Spread out over 170 acres, the Germany Valley Overlook Cabins give visitors plenty of privacy and some of the most spectacular scenery in the state. From the decks of the cabins, guests enjoy panaromic views of North Mountain, Spruce Knob, and Dolly Sods. 8540 Mountaineer Drive, Seneca Rocks; 800.481.5680 germanyvalleycabins.com
THOMAS & DAVIS
The towns of Thomas and Davis share a unique location in Canaan Valley. Whether it’s biking and hiking at Blackwater Falls State Park or experiencing the many fall festivals, this area of the state provides some of the best views of the fall foliage. The Purple Fiddle Café in Thomas provides a relaxing atmosphere to eat and be merry; or try a local brew from fellow Best of West Virginia winner Mountain State Brewing Company. The list of shops, restaurants, and outdoor activities in these adjoining towns is endless, so make sure to enjoy them while the leaves are still on the trees. canaanvalley.org
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MEDIA PERSONALITY
TONY CARIDI
Tony Caridi has known he wanted to go into broadcasting since he was in elementary school. “I told my fifth grade teacher I wanted to have my own radio station,” he says. By middle school he wanted to be a “morning DJ funny guy,” as Caridi now puts it, but as he got into high school and college he found he was more interested in news and sports broadcasting. He landed his first radio job in Morgantown after graduating from Syracuse University, and he’s been in Mountaineer Country ever since. During his nearly three decades with West Virginia Radio Corporation, Caridi’s outgoing personality and passion for his work make him one of the best-known media figures in our state. Caridi’s voice has provided the commentary to some of the most memorable moments in Mountaineer athletics history, including the football team’s 1993 Big East Championship and the men’s basketball team’s 2010 appearance in the NCAA Final Four. Caridi is also a children’s book author. He recently released Where, Oh Where, Oh Where Could We Go? Traveling West Virginia High and Low, a travel guide for kids three years old and up. tonycaridi.com RUNNER-UP
KEVIN CONNOLEY This year’s runner-up is another familiar voice to Morgantown radio listeners: Kevin Connoley hosts “The Kevin Connoley Show” on 102 WVAQ. Connoley has ended his 22-year career with West Virginia Radio Corporation but for other ambitions. He is in his second year at law school and wants to put his focus into his schooling.
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John Manchester’s good guidance of Lewisburg since 2003 has made him a multiple-time Best of West Virginia favorite mayor. His beautifully maintained Greenbrier County village has become a top tourism destination. But it also attracts foodies, history buffs, outdoor lovers, and others who move there for the high quality of life—it’s the only southern West Virginia town to gain significant population from 2010 to 2015, pushing close to 4,000. Manchester has placed a high emphasis on inspiring partnerships for downtown beautification, walkability, and arts and culture as well as supporting small business growth. His biggest challenge? Budget constraints. Manchester has three years left in his fourth term, which he has said will be his last. He looks ahead to long-planned upgrades to water infrastructure and fire response. He also thinks about how to draw more young people into city affairs. lewisburg-wv.com
BEST EXTREME ADVENTURE
WHITEWATER RAFTING
ADVENTURES ON THE GORGE Adventures on the Gorge in the New River Gorge region has taken the whitewater experience to a new level with world-class, resort-style hospitality. AOTG’s guests can choose their level of whitewater challenge, as always, but now they can also find lodging and dining to suit any group’s size, mood, and budget—from rustic to cozy to luxurious. And guests can extend their adventures with everything from rock climbing to ziplining to lying beside the pool. 219 Chestnutburg Road, Lansing; 855.379.8738; adventuresonthegorge.com
ELIZABETH ROTH; NIKKI BOWMAN; WHITEWATER PHOTOGRAPHY
BEST
JOHN MANCHESTER
BEST MAYOR
BEST BAND
BEST TOWN REVITALIZATION
BEST HISTORIC
TOWN
NIKKI BOWMAN (2)
HILLBILLY GYPSIES It was a big year for the Hillbilly Gypsies. In January 2016, the band’s longtime fiddler, banjo player, and bassist all announced they were leaving the band. There wasn’t any bad blood, it was just time to move on. “Life happened,” guitarist Trae Buckner says. “The musical gypsy life isn’t something people stay with forever.” Yet Buckner and his wife Jamie Lynn, who founded the Gypsies back in 2001, were not ready to hang up their spurs. Drawing on their connections in the bluegrass community, they hired brothers Aaron and Alex Richards to play banjo and bass, respectively, as well as fiddle player Greg “Spanky” Moore. Moore, who is in the running for the 2016 Society for the Preservation of Bluegrass Music of America’s Fiddler of the Year award, jumped at the chance to join the Gypsies after having played with more buttoned-up bluegrass bands. “He said, ‘I’d like to come play my fiddle and be myself,’” Buckner says. The new lineup has given the Gypsies fresh energy, but fans can rest assured: The music has not changed. Buckner says he’s still committed to the band’s signature blend of first-generation bluegrass and old-time Appalachian music. “I’ve just always liked that mix. And it’s always worked for us.” While the band doesn’t get the radio play some bluegrass groups enjoy, they are fan favorites at bluegrass festivals around the United States and in Europe. Buckner says that’s what keeps the Gypsies going. “If it wasn’t for that kind of support, we couldn’t do it. We can’t thank our fan base enough.” thehillbillygypsies.com
Harpers Ferry One would have thought Harpers Ferry’s tumultuous days were in the past. The town—which was the site of abolitionist John Brown’s infamous raid on a federal armory and changed hands eight times during the Civil War, suffering devastating fires set by both Confederate and Union troops—has enjoyed a rather peaceful 150 years. But on July 23, 2015, the historic town was left smoldering after a fire destroyed three buildings that housed eight businesses and two apartments. Businesses quickly relocated and reopened, and tourists continued to shuttle in to see sights like Jefferson Rock, the Appalachian Trail, the C&O Canal towpath, the John Brown Wax Museum, and, of course, Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. Tourism spiked in the aftermath of the fire—Harpers Ferry saw 34 percent more visitors in September 2016 than in September 2015. Reconstruction on the town’s historic buildings is progressing well. The West Virginia University Extension Service won national recognition for collaborating and pitching in on the project. The Jefferson County Convention & Visitors Bureau headquarters is also undergoing an expansion that will nearly double the facility’s size and make it more accessible to tourists. discoveritallwv.com wvliving.com 91
BEST TOWN FOR FOODIES
Faster than you can say “Garlic Aioli and Sriracha Fries”—an appetizer at Table 9, one of Morgantown’s epicurean-attracting restaurants—the home of the WVU Mountaineers has been transformed into a mecca for diners with discerning taste. Chefs all over town are creating inventive dishes made with locally sourced, in-season ingredients. Foodies looking to find an exciting meal do not have to look very far in Morgantown. And, more often than not, they can find a West Virginia-brewed beer on tap or a craft cocktail to wash down their meal. Here is an alphabetized—and non-comprehensive— list of restaurants that have contributed to Morgantown’s “Best Town for Foodies” award. Atomic Grill Start out with the Appalachian Bruschetta, which features five down-home dipping sauces including collard green pesto, or try some locally sourced barbecue and top it off with the Krispy Kreme Bread Pudding. Black Bear Burritos The burritos are filled with fresh, local ingredients, and 24 taps means you can enjoy just about any local craft beer of your choosing. Chaang Thai You don’t have to be a vegetarian or vegan to enjoy this genuine Thai food. The extensive menu at this High Street restaurant includes Coconut Soup, Pad Thai, and the spicy Bamboo Red Curry. 92 wvl • winter 2016
Hill & Hollow Chef Marion Ohlinger opened a new restaurant at Seneca Center in early 2016 that features an ever-changing menu. Ohlinger usually has at least one, if not more, ceviches available as he works Appalachian ingredients into global cuisine. Iron Horse Tavern You’ve got to love it when the owners of Mountain State Brewing Co. open a restaurant that highlights West Virginia-made beers to complement a menu of elevated pub food. Try the house-made tots with black truffle and bacon sour cream aioli. Sargasso Chef Thomas Metzler emphasizes fine dining with a global twist at this nearly decade-old restaurant. Try the signature Sargasso Salad, which features dates, feta cheese, walnuts, and cranberry coulis. Stefano’s The dishes at Stefano’s combine fine dining, Italian cuisine, and originality. For a starter, order the Roasted Bone Marrow with smoked figs, dates, salsa verde, and smoked lava salt. Table 9 Chef and owner Mark Tasker creates small plates that pack a wallop, featuring local ingredients and an everchanging menu, at this Wharf-side gastropub. Tin 202 The proprietors at one of Morgantown’s newer additions to the dining scene switch up their craft cocktails about as often as the tapas-centered dining menu.
CARLA WITT FORD(2); ELIZABETH ROTH; CARLA WITT FORD
MORGANTOWN
BEST
BEST
FESTIVAL
SKI RESORT
SNOWSHOE MOUNTAIN RESORT
LEWISBURG CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Each April, the smell of chocolate takes over the spring air in beautiful, historic downtown Lewisburg. This is the place to be for chocolate lovers—the two-day festival is full of fun events like the Chocolate Tasting Extravaganza, where visitors can sample chocolate recipes from bakeries around town. Indulge that competitive spirit by signing up for the chocolate mousse eating contest or, if you start to feel guilty about eating all the wonderful treats, join Saturday morning’s HospiceCare 10k Chocolate Chase & Fun Walk. Previous years’ festivals have also included live music, movie screenings, live theater, chef demonstrations, and chocolate-themed children’s activities. Amateur chefs can take part in the All Things Chocolate BakeOff. Proceeds from the competition benefit the Greenbrier County Humane Society, and members of the public can sample contestants’ creations.
Eastern resorts tend to get overlooked when it comes to premium skiing and snowboarding. But Snowshoe Resort, now a four-time Best Ski Resort winner, will appease even the pickiest Western ski bums. The resort offers 250 acres of skiable terrain, with 57 trails traversing three adjoining ski areas. Its location along the Allegheny Mountains allows for perfect snowfall, meaning fresh powder runs through the season. Some of the best ski instructors make their homes here in the winter, making Snowshoe a perfect place to learn a new sport. There’s plenty of lodging available, whether it’s condos, townhouses, or luxurious rooms boasting gas fireplaces and whirlpool tubs. And with more than 20 restaurants, a 3,600-square-foot spa, and a teen center, there’s plenty to do even when you’re not on the slopes. 10 Snowshoe Drive, Snowshoe; 304.572.4636; snowshoemtn.com
BEST HAMBURGER
800.833.2068; lewisburgchocolatefestival.com
BLACKBIRD STUDIOS; CARLA WITT FORD; ZACK HAROLD
RUNNER-UP
Charleston FestivALL This year’s “Best Festival” runner-up, coming in just 40 votes shy, is Charleston’s annual FestivALL celebration. Held for 10 days each June, FestivALL transforms the city into a work of art. You can listen to live music, watch street performers and live theater productions, attend movie screenings, and, of course, see masterful visual artists. FestivALL partners with hundreds of local, regional, national, and international artists to make each year’s festival an unforgettable event. 304.470.0489; festivallcharleston.com
SECRET SANDWICH SOCIETY WV Living readers are crazy about the burgers at Fayetteville’s Secret Sandwich Society, easily the worst-kept secret in town. One of the most popular is the “Eagle,” named for Bill Clinton’s code name, with seared mortadella, an over-easy egg, garlic mayo, pickles, crispy onions, and American cheese. The “Rawhide,” sporting Ronald Reagan’s code name, is also a favorite, topped with jalapeños, an egg, garlic mayo, and pepperjack cheese. Every burger is served on a buttery brioche bun with a side of fries. 103 Keller Avenue, Fayetteville; 304.574.4777; secretsandwichsociety.com wvliving.com 93
BEST PIZZA
BEST ICE CREAM
PIES & PINTS
While you can get a delicious hand-tossed gourmet pizza and craft beer at any of the chain’s 11 locations across West Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, and Alabama, there’s still something special about Pies & Pints’ original location in Fayetteville. Open since June 2003, it’s still serving up the off-the-wall but delicious combinations—think grape and gorgonzola or pulled pork and pineapple—that customers have come to expect. 222 Capitol Street, Charleston; 304.342.7437 219 West Maple Avenue, Fayetteville; 304.574.2200 1002 Suncrest Town Centre, Morgantown; 304.777.4749; piesandpints.net
HILLBILLY HOT DOGS
With 28 kinds of dogs, it’s no wonder Hillbilly Hot Dogs is the four-time readers’ choice for “Best Hot Dog.” Its assortment of toppings and unique theme always entice curious customers. Pulling up to the establishment, you’ll see a rickety shack and a school bus-turned-dining room. Diners are encouraged to bring markers and leave their signatures anywhere they want. Down the enormous Homewrecker dog—“15 inches of pure eatin’ pleasure”—in under 12 minutes and win a free Homewrecker T-shirt. Those with less voracious appetites can try these five favorite dogs: · Ala Cheesy Beefy Weenie American cheese, deep-fried dog, nacho cheese, bacon, mac wedge, hot dog sauce, and shredded cheese. · West Virginia Dog Hot dog sauce, mustard, onions, and coleslaw. · Taco Dog Jalapeños, nacho cheese, crushed Tostito chips, hot dog sauce, lettuce, diced tomatoes, salsa, sour cream, and shredded cheese. · Rahall’s Red Hot Weenie Grilled spicy Mettwurst, nacho cheese, habanero sauce, hot mustard, sautéed peppers and onions, jalapeños, and sauerkraut. · The Original Widow Maker 30-inch, two-pound dog and four pounds of toppings. 6951 Ohio River Road, Lesage; 304.762.2458; hillbillyhotdogs.com
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ELLEN’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM For the fourth year running, readers have voted Charleston’s Ellen’s Ice Cream the best ice cream in West Virginia. And for good reason. Swing by on almost any summer night and you’ll see whole families nibbling on cones of Ellen’s fresh-made gourmet ice creams and sorbets. In addition to favorite flavors—Espresso Oreo, anyone?—the menu also features limited-time specials like ginger, “straw-nana,” and Guinness-flavored ice cream. 225 Capitol Street, Charleston 304.343.6488; ellensicecream.com
ELIZABETH ROTH; NIKKI BOWMAN (2)
BEST HOT DOG
BEST
BEST
MUSEUM
ITALIAN RESTAURANT
ART MUSEUM AT WVU
MURIALE’S
Stepping into the Art Museum of WVU, visitors are greeted—at least for the time being— by a two-floor graffiti-style piece painted on the wall by a twin brother duo who go by the name How & Nosm. It’s the museum’s way of letting its guests know they have entered a space dedicated to boldly original work. The museum, which opened in August 2015, is filled with everything from works by Monongalia County native and pioneering painter and printmaker Blanche Lazzell to those by internationally famous artists such as Pablo Picasso, Roy Lichtenstein, Mary Cassatt, Andy Warhol, and Ansel Adams. All those works and more are part of the museum’s permanent collection and are featured in its opening exhibit. Next up is “FABRICation,” with works that incorporate textiles. That exhibit will be on display from January 15 to March 15, 2017. 2 Fine Arts Drive, Morgantown; 304.293.7790; artmuseum.wvu.edu
BEST
CARLA WITT FORD (2); NIKKI BOWMAN
ADVENTURE TOWN
Homey décor, warm hospitality, and bold, southern Italian-style red sauce have made Muriale’s a north-central institution. Owner Rocco Muriale’s grandparents came over to West Virginia, and establishing the restaurant in the 1960s was a family effort. The salad is a small antipasto meal in itself, but don’t miss the meatballs or lasagna, both served under ladles of signature sauce. Plan to linger over cannoli or tiramisu. Have Muriale’s cater an event and treat your guests to the best. 1742 Fairmont Avenue, Fairmont 304.363.3190; murialesrestaurant.com
FAYETTEVILLE This tiny county seat might be small in size and population, but it’s the biggest name in adventure tourism east of the Mississippi. For years, “Fayetteville” has been synonymous with whitewater rafting. The town and its surrounding communities are home to a smattering of trusted outfitters ready to take you bouncing down the New River or its wilder sister, the Gauley. Rock climbing is another of Fayetteville’s big draws. The rock faces lining the New River Gorge make the area a perfect playground for climbers. Ask the experts at Water Stone Outdoors, the beloved local mom-and-pop outfitter, for advice on the best routes. And there are plenty of top-notch hiking and mountain biking trails in the area for enthusiasts of all experience levels. Outfitters also offer ziplines, aerial obstacle courses, water parks, stand-up paddleboarding, and more, so everyone from the adrenaline junkie to the adventurous amateur can feel at home. 888.574.1500; visitfayettevillewv.com
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BEST BUTCHER SHOP
BEST DISTILLERY
This little shop, located off Route 50 in Capon Bridge, has quickly earned a following of locals and out-of-towners alike. Owners Pete and Kate Pacelli moved to West Virginia from Portland, Oregon, to be close to family. Pete comes from a long line of butchers, and the couple had a deep interest in quality, locally sourced foods, so they opened Farmer’s Daughter in 2015 with more than $27,000 they raised with a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign. Customers can find fresh-cut meat, fresh-ground sausages, and cured bacon, as well as fresh produce, breads, gourmet coffee, wine, and craft beer, not to mention daily lunch specials. 2908 Northwestern Pike, Capon Bridge; 304.856.2550 facebook.com/farmersdaughterwv RUNNER-UP
T&M MEATS A family-owned and -operated institution that has served Cross Lanes since 1987, T & M Meats was a close runner-up this year in our inaugural “Best Butcher Shop” category. This shop offers everything you need for a full-on feast, from fresh-cut meats and side dishes to craft beer and Napoleon Grills and Smokers. 5254 Big Tyler Rd, Charleston; 304.776.4809; tandmmeats.com
BEST ENVIRONMENTAL ORGANIZATION
THE WEST VIRGINIA CHAPTER OF
THE NATURE CONSERVANCY
TNC has protected nearly 120,000 acres of critical natural lands across the state, treasures like the Cheat Canyon, Cranesville Swamp, and Bear Rocks Preserve. In 2016, the conservancy helped to preserve a 400-acre parcel at the Sinks of Gandy that is critical for sustaining biodiversity and protects the headwaters of a native brook trout stream. West Virginia is a focus for the conservancy, CEO Mark Tercek said at a national meeting held in Wheeling in October 2016. “As the heart of 96 wvl • winter 2016
SMOOTH AMBLER SPIRITS When Smooth Ambler Spirits outside Lewisburg began combining corn and wheat liquors and aging that in oak barrels to create bourbon, they made a commitment to mature the wheated variety for five years. That time is almost up, which means soon, visitors to Smooth Ambler’s tasting room should be able to get a sip of this carefully crafted spirit. In the meantime, fans of the establishment, which has been bestowed with WV Living’s inaugural “Best Distillery” designation, have plenty of other drinks to choose from. That includes the Yearling, a younger version of the five-year wheated bourbon, as well as the Whitewater Vodka, which showcases the use of local ingredients in Smooth Ambler products—in this case, water from the Greenbrier River. Architect Tag Galyean incorporated Smooth Ambler in 2009 and began production in 2010, correctly surmising that West Virginia would have steamy summers and cold winters like Kentucky to facilitate the whiskey’s aging process. The Mountain State favorite can now be enjoyed around the world, with distribution in 35 states and eight overseas markets. 745 Industrial Park Road, Maxwelton; 304.497.3123 smoothambler.com
the Appalachians, it has an outsized role,” he said. “Protecting those places in West Virginia gives you a lot of return for your investment.” 304.637.0160; nature.org RUNNER-UP
WEST VIRGINIA RIVERS COALITION WVRC serves as the statewide voice for water-based recreation and clean, drinkable, swimmable, and fishable waterways. In 2016 WVRC promoted public participation in creating water utilities’ sourcewater protection plans and monitoring water quality along proposed natural gas pipeline routes. And it is prominent among organizations asking President Obama to establish a Birthplace of Rivers National Monument in Pocahontas County. 304.637.7201; wvrivers.org
COURTESY OF FARMER’S DAUGHTER MARKET & BUTCHER; NIKKI BOWMAN
FARMER’S DAUGHTER