Holiday West Highland - Autumn/Winter 2022-23

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1 • EAT • DO • EXPLORE • STAY Free aUTUMn / WinTeR 2022-23 IN THIS ISSUE: IMMERSE YoUR SENSES IN ARGYLL, THE WEST HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS HOL DAY WEST HIGHLAND
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WELCOME

Welcome to the Autumn/ Winter 2022 edition of Holiday West Highland, your guide to the beautiful west highlands and islands region, a place that is so enchanting that one visit will never be enough.

The West Highlands boasts a rich culture of local characters, fantastic food and drink, exciting activities, places of historic and natural interest and unique wildlife. The past three years have been difficult to say the least but as our vibrant local businesses have got back on their feet, we are so delighted to be able to showcase the hos pitality for which this part of Scotland is famous.

The colder months don’t usually come with hazy days of sunshine but with 3,750km of coastline, 23 inhabited islands and 40 lochs, we do offer the perfect backdrop for exploring the region under your own steam. Whilst it is handy to have a car, you have access to a great network of ferries operated by CalMac and public transport provid ed by West Coast Motors throughout Argyll and the Isles and Shiel Buses across the Highlands. Why not hop over to one of our beautiful islands that can be best appreciated on foot, on a bike, or even a kayak. ‘Pedaddling’ is this year’s buzz word from Wild About Argyll, so think about hir ing a bicycle or experience the joys of kayaking, paddle boarding or swimming. Even in the colder months, you can wrap up warm and remember your brolly - the stunning autumn colours and snow-tipped mountains are breathtaking at this time of the year.

If you love being in the great outdoors and need

a real boost for both your physical and mental wellbeing, come rain or shine, you’re in the right place.

Have a wonderful stay,

4 CONTENTS 5 Oban & Lorn 6 Coastal Connection 10 Oban & Lorn top picks 12 Oban: Where to next? 13 Dungallan Country House 14 West Coast Waters 15 Seafari Adventures 18 Loch Awe 20 Above and Below 23 Inveraray 27 Heart of Argyll 32 Cowal 35 Cowal’s Echoes of the Past 37 Helensburgh 40 Argyll’s secret coast 43 Isle of Bute 48 Kintyre 52 Isle of Gigha 54 Isle of Arran 58 Islay & Jura 64 Colonsay 66 Coll & Tiree 73 Mull & Iona 76 Lochaber 79 Outdoor Capital of the UK 86 West Highland peninsulas 88 Road to the Isles 91 The Great Glen 92 Isle of Skye 98 Outer Hebrides 101 Scottish Field luxury hamper 102 The Small Isles You can find us online at holidaywesthighland.co.uk, and keep in touch using the details below. Have a wonderful stay, The Holiday West Highland Team CONTACT ADVERTISING: Advertising Director Nicky Murphy nmurphy@obantimes.co.uk Suzanne Taylor staylor@wyvexmedia.co.uk OFFICE: Wyvex Media: Oban 01631 568000
The Holiday West Highland Team Front page photograph: Swimmers at Castle Stalker (Photo credit Stephen Sweeney)

OBAN

Bustling with life and boasting some of the best views in Scotland, Oban has oodles to offer. Within walking distance of the Victorian town centre you can explore castles and cafes, enjoy brunch or the beach, and take your time browsing around the shops and uncovering local history and culture.

Known as the gateway to the isles, Oban’s sheltered bay makes a perfect harbour – there are step-ashore pontoons at the North Pier and CalMac ferries which glide in to the main terminal to take visitors on further-flung adventures – and the town has a vibrancy all of its own.

Oban’s status as the unofficial capital of the west Highlands is relatively recent. It grew around a whisky distillery which opened in 1794 and

is still open to visitors today. The town gained further momentum with the arrival of steam ships and trains which brought well-known visitors including Queen Victoria, who described it as “one of the finest spots we have seen”.

Oban confirmed its strategic importance in the Second World War, when it played a vital role in the Battle of the Atlantic, now remembered at the War and Peace Museum, which holds a collection of local artefacts and marks important events in the region’s past.

A walk along the shoreline is a treat in itself. Head west along the esplanade and you will pass St Columba’s Cathedral and the town’s War Memorial before finding the 15th-century ruins of Dunollie Castle, an historic stronghold for the MacDougall clan that is now a highlight of the town’s cultural scene, and home to a 1745 house museum, pretty gardens, a cafe and a well-curated gift shop.

Further west is Ganavan Sands, Oban’s popular beach, and the starting point for the Argyll Sea Kayak Trail (one of many watersports adventures available close by). Here, urban life feels far away. A cycle path connects the town to the neighbouring village of Dunbeg, home to the family-friendly Ocean Explorer Science Centre and Dunstaffnage Castle, a fortress once held by Robert the Bruce.

Oban is popular with artists and performers, and its venues often attract better-known names than their intimate space might lead you to expect. The Corran Halls has a varied programme of shows, from ballet to stand-up comedy, and refurbished venue The View is a good place to head if you want a truly Scottish music and dance experience.

The Oban Phoenix cinema shows the latest new release films and also organises special events, while Atlantis Leisure is packed with options for active families, with a play park outside and swimming pool and soft play area indoors.

Alternatively head for the shops, and enjoy browsing in historic waterfront buildings – there’s everything you need here, from quirky independent shops selling gifts and local produce, to outlets offering any outdoor equipment you need for your holiday.

As well as the regular Caledonian MacBrayne ferries, Oban plays host to some magnificent tall ships, ex-herring drifters, cruise liners, and occasionally the Waverley paddle steamer.

One of the most memorable features of a trip to Oban is its magical sunsets. Every evening is different and McCaig’s Tower, the Colisseum-like structure at the top of the town, is the ideal point from which to enjoy one. Soak up the light and look out to the Isle of Kerrera and the hills of Mull beyond.

KERRERA

e island of Kerrera is so close to Oban that you can almost touch it, and it is easy to reach via a short ferry trip. It is tranquil, scenic contrast from town, and an accessible rst taste of the Hebrides, with a tea room, restaurant and bunkhouse. At just three miles long, is easy to explore via the footpath that loops the coastline and passes the formidable Gylen castle.

DIARY DATE:

Oban Winter Festival

18th - 27th November

Festival action takes place mainly in town - walking is a fantastic way to get around. Discover the great shopping, bars and restaurants that make this town tick, take a tour of the local distillery and sample our national drink, or a relaxing co ee in one of our many cafes, soaking up the beautiful view of the bay. Events vary each day from family favourites like the Reindeer Parade and Christmas light switch on to the ceilidhs and light shows. Visit www. obanwinterfestival.com

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Oban harbour
Gylen Castle, Isle of Kerrera

COASTAL CONNECTION

The

One of the best ways to appreciate the beauty in this area is to see it by boat. Coast Connection provides a range of trips with something to suit

everyone, whether you want to go north to Skye or south to Lismore.

The Wildlife and Castle Trip lasts for two hours and departs from Oban. You will hear about the local area and its history, and spot wildlife such as seals, porpoise and birdlife.

If you’re looking for a longer trip, the Tobermory Day Trip is the one for you! Again leaving Oban, this trip takes you up the Sound of Mull, passing Duart Castle and Lismore

Lighthouse, to the colourful fishing village. You will have three hours in Tobermory to explore and have some lunch before returning to Oban. The day trip lasts approximately five-and-a-half hours. For the extra special occasion, Coastal Connection offers two-hour, half-day and full-day private charters.

Missed ferries and inter island transfers are also catered for. coastal-connection.co.uk

Amazing Boat Tour to Tobermory

My family booked a tour with Cameron out to Tobermory. It was an amazing experience.

Even in the “off season” we were able to see sea birds like oyster catchers, seals, and deer! It was beautiful. The town of Tobermory was picturesque and a fun place to visit.

Cameron was very knowledgeable about the wildlife and where the best places to see them were. Would highly recommend if you are in Oban!

Scotia p, Tripadvisor Review, March 2022

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west coast of Scotland has some of the most stunning scenery in Britain.
one of the 5 star reviews:
Just
7 OBAN PHOENIX CINEMA We are atwo-screenindependentcinema showingeverythingfromthelatest blockbusters to arthouseandlivestreamedtheatrefromaroundtheworld. Seewhat'son www.obanphoenix.com 01631562905 140GeorgeSt.ObanPA345NX RegisteredScottishCharity:SC042407 aboutus
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obaN & lorN

Top things to see, do and experience

Mccaigs Tower

Dominating Oban’s skyline, McCaig’s tower was built in the late 19th century by local banker John Stuart McCaig, partly to provide work for local stone masons. It is striking to look up at and even better from inside.

Dunollie Castle and Museum

For centuries this ivy-covered ruin was the base from which Clan MacDougall ruled the region. The house below is now a thriving museum, with lovely grounds and activities for visitors of all ages. dunollie.org

Boat Trips

Oban is the gateway to the Isles, and some – such as Lismore, Easdale and Kerrera – are close enough for a day trip and can be reached by ferry in moments. A choice of wildlifewatching trips depart locally, too – look out for seals, basking sharks, dolphins and much more.

Oban War and Peace Museum

This tiny museum isn’t just for those with a passion for military history, its artefacts and exhibitions offer broad insight into Oban’s past. A good stop for visitors tracing local family connections too.

www.obanmuseum.org.uk

Atlantis Leisure

Get active with the family whatever the weather. Atlantis boasts two swimming pools, a soft play area, climbing wall, outdoor courts and many more sports and classes. Plus community playgrounds outside. www.atlantisleisure.co.uk

Scotland’s Seafood Capital

Oban’s title as Scotland’s seafood capital is well-earned, with a host of restaurants offering fresh local fare. For an al fresco experience, stroll along the south pier and take your pick of the day’s catch.

Walk, run or cycle the nine miles of towpath along Scotland’s most beautiful shortcut, which joins Loch Fyne to Loch Crinan. Nature and Victorian engineering side-bywww.scottishcanals.co.uk

Dunstaffnage

The village of Dunbeg is home to Dunstaffnage Castle, a MacDougall stronghold that played an important role in national history. Walk around the marina and secluded beaches, and visit the neighbouring Ocean Explorer Centre. oceanexplorercentre.org

Shopping & Afternoon Tea

From tiny gift shops to galleries, trendy chain stores and even a chocolate shop, Oban offers a scenic town-centre shopping experience. Enhance the experience with afternoon tea (and homebaking) in a seafront hotel or tea room. www.bid4oban.co.uk

The Rockfield Centre

A community hub with a programme of live performances, workshops, classes and exhibitions hosted throughout the year. Learn more about local arts, history and heritage. Check out the website for events taking place throughout the summer. www.therockfieldcentre.org.uk

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11 Powerboat Training Marine Radio SRC/VHF Essential Navigation Day Skipper Theory Yachtmaster Theory Diesel Engine First Aid Professional Practices and Responsibilities PPR Marine Radio VHF CEVNI Marine Courses Online Courses Training Courses IN OBAN Regulated First Aid at Work Mental Health and Stress Awareness Mental Health First Aid Social Care Manual Handling Fire Safety and Fire Marshall Health and Safety Risk Assessment Workplace Training @seagrassmarine @seagrasstraining @trainingoban 01631802040 www.seagrassmarine.com

WHERE TO NEXT?

You’ve just arrived in Oban and checked in to your accommodation, what now? The sunsets on the west coast of Scotland truly are a spectacle to behold and for the best vantage point in the town, a walk up to McCaig’s Tower is a must! Either that or a walk along the esplanade to look out across the pontoons over to Kerrera and Mull will highlight the spectacular vista across Oban Bay.

Oban is a foodies paradise! From the most fresh seafood around to the best local produce – available to purchase and cook up a storm in your own kitchen, or sample in the amazing array of cafes and restaurants that allow Oban to rank highly in the provenance stakes.

From breakfast to dinner and snacks in between, there are plenty of places for you to try local dishes.

You can often see the seafood being landed on the town’s south pier, safe in the knowledge that it will be on a plate within minutes. The seafood shack and McGillivrays are a great spot for you to sample a number of delicacies, perhaps even for the first time!

Lunch in the town is a busy affair too. With

numerous takeaways as well as dine-in options (with or without alcohol!) there’s definitely something for everyone. Let’s not forget about the town’s famous chip shops –at least one of your meals should come from one of these fine establishments.

Locals have their favourites but let us know who you choose as having the crispiest batter and the fluffiest chips. You can probably ask a handful of locals for advice and they’ll all give you different tips.

For luscious local produce and Scottish fare, Oban is a must.

A lively pub scene awaits you should you wish to experience live music and dance the night away. Many of Oban’s bars and pubs offer a beer garden for extra space on a nice. Markie Dans, The Oban Inn, The Lorne and the Whisky Vaults are among the many bars with regular live acts of a weekend. The View boasts a balcony with magnificent seaward views as well as an extensive cocktail menu. It also wouldn’t be a trip to Oban without a tour of Oban Distillery or at the very least a nip of Scotland’s finest whisky. On a similar note,

The Oban Beer Seller, conveniently located directly across from the distillery, can cater for all your craft beer needs.

Oban is also for adventure-seekers! For novice or keen kayakers, yachtsmen and divers, the seas around Oban offer some of the best sport in Europe, whilst the surrounding hills and glens are magnificent for walking and cycling, at any pace that takes your fancy.

Ganavan Sands provides the perfect setting for a calmer paddle – be it kayak or paddleboard – or you could pop in for a swim!

This is also the setting for the Oban Parkrun where you can keep to your running schedule whilst taking in the amazing backdrop of Lismore, Mull and the Morvern Peninsula.

Bring the whole family for a day at the beach. Oban Cycles can provide you with any gear you need for a 2-wheeled adventure. Outside Edge and Oban Sports Shop

are well stocked with any other equipment and for rental you can head to Sea Kayak Oban or keep an eye out on Facebook for Adventure Oban and their new Adventure Library.

If tours are more your thing then Basking Shark Scotland, Coastal Connection, Allan’s Boat Trips, Argyll Sea Tours and Oban Sea Tours will transport you from the beauty of the bay to further explore the stunning coastline and islands surrounding Oban and Lorn.

This of course only scratches the surface of what Oban has to offer. Head over to www. oban.org.uk for more tips and don’t forget to tag the Love Oban social accounts in all of your travel snaps and videos.

FB - @loveoban | Instagram - @loveoban_ | Twitter - @loveoban_

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Dungallan Country House – 5 Star Award just 7 weeks after opening

the 5 Stars, Dungallan was also awarded a further accolade of Taste Our Best award. This award was presented for the quality of the Scottish produce used in the breakfasts, the presentation and the provenance detailing where in Scotland the items were sourced. The awards were a huge boost for the small and dedicated team.

Since opening its doors on the 1st of June 2022, Dungallan Country House has welcomed guests from all corners of the world including Israel, Sweden, Italy, India and the United States. Enhanced by the local hospitality in Oban and the range of fabulous restaurants, shops and bars, international visitors alongside staycation guests have been leaving complimentary reviews of the warm welcome, tasty breakfasts using the best Scottish produce and their hard-working team.

A mere 7 weeks after welcoming the first guests, Visit Scotland awarded Dungallan the accolade of 5 Stars, mentioning the friendly hospitable atmosphere, exceptional cleanliness and attention to detail such as fresh flowers around the house and homemade tablet for arriving guests. Always looking to improve, Dungallan has now introduced additional items to their tea tray alongside the current offerings from Brodies of Edinburgh. Guests now enjoy ground coffee with a cafetiere and Scottish classic chocolate biscuits such as Tunnocks tea cakes and caramel wafers. In addition to

Catering to a range of palates and lifestyle choices, the breakfast menu offers gluten free, dairy free and vegan options ranging from gluten free omelettes to a vegan full Scottish. In addition, the homemade waffles with fresh berries and maple syrup alongside the pancakes with fresh berry stack has been the stars of the show with both UK and international guests. Coming joint top as a firm breakfast favourite is the Rabbie Burns; homemade Dungallan potato scone, streaky bacon & haggis (from Grants of Taynuilt) accompanied by scrambled egg (eggs from Bellochantuy, situated just outside Campbeltown on the Kintyre peninsula).

Whilst Dungallan is situated a convenient 10-minute walk into Oban, guests enjoy the benefits of having a well-stocked lounge bar on site. With a range of over 110 whiskies (and growing) and an enviable range of Scottish island gins, it’s clear to see why the majority of guest reviews give it a special mention. The wraparound patio has been a haven for guests visiting during

the more favourable sunny days, enjoying their tipple of choice with the most fabulous, uninterrupted views over Oban Bay and the islands beyond. The bar also offers a range of whisky flight options for those who may be new to the world of whisky or for those wishing to broaden their taste horizons. Dungallan is a firm believer in homemade produce where possible. Not only do arriving guests receive a bag of homemade tablet in their room, the country house also offers guests and non-residents alike the option of homemade afternoon tea, bookable with 24 hours’ notice. Due to the popularity of this offering, a new warm, savoury option is planned and will launch 1 October.

It’s hard to talk about Oban and all things Scottish without mentioning the local golfer Robert (Bob) McIntyre. Dungallan has teamed up with Bob’s home club of Glencruitten to offer guests golfing packages as part of their stay. Guests have been making good use of Dungallan’s 3 sets of new TaylorMade golf clubs and enjoying the challenging but very welcoming

course. Contact Dungallan direct for more information.

Since Covid 19 reduced the number of guests able to attend a wedding; it’s clear to see that this trend has continued. Looking for a more intimate setting and number of guests in attendance, Dungallan has seen an upsurge in wedding enquiries for 2023 and beyond. It’s not only wedding couples that have been attracted by the exclusive use booking option; golfing friends who would normally opt for the self-catered, large house option are starting to favour the more luxurious, catered option of locations like Dungallan. For more information, contact the Management Team direct. Closing for phase 2 renovations 1 December 2022 to 1 April 2023

Dungallan Country House

Gallanach Rd, Oban PA34 4PD

Phone: 01631 563799 www.dungallancountryhouse.co.uk. #DungallanCountryHouseOban

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Experience the amazing food, drinks and atmosphere for yourself!

WEST COAST WONDERS

For centuries, people have journeyed throughout the Highlands and Islands by boat, and even today, it can be the fastest transport available –and the most fun!

Whether your goal is to hit the high seas or make a splash in one of the many local lochs and canals, there is plenty of choice. You can rent your own boat to take a chartered wildlife cruise, or ride a ferry to the outlying islands, and if you

have access to a yacht, the selection of marinas is world class.

Boat rentals are a popular options for groups and families looking for a relaxing day of socialising, cruising and fishing. In many cases you can rent fishing equipment with the boat.

There is plenty of variety in the vessels themselves, from comfortable and leisurely island cruises (with an undercover option, should it rain) to high-speed motorboat adventures to destinations such as the Corryvreckan whirlpool, which you will simply never forget.

For wildlife watchers, a boat trip enables you to get up close to many of Scotland’s celebrated species, including seabirds, cetaceans and seals. Tours and group

charter trips are offered from Oban and the larger surrounding islands, with dolphins, porpoises, sea eagles, otters and even whales among the creatures you could spot. Expert local guides enhance the experience with their knowledge of local wildlife and the best places to observe it.

An excursion is also the means to access some of the West Coast’s inaccessible islands, and to meet their shy but endearing residents. Your chances of an encounter with puffins or guillemots are high on trips to Staffa and Treshnish Isles, where you will be left equally spellbound by caves, sea stacks and other geological marvels.

Booking is always recommended, particularly for the longer trips, though it is possible to just turn up and join short trips, such as the seal-watching tours from Oban Bay, when there is space available.

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Corryvreckan whirlpool
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A dolphin near Coll
puffin
Fingals Cave on Staffa Island

Autumn Wildlife around our islands

Wildlife Tours alters.

The Corryvreckan (Home of the World’s Third Largest Whirlpool) remains a central part of all tours. Wildlife such as our common seal pups are no longer receiving piggy back rides from their mothers. The pups are now well fed and sometimes difficult to differentiate from their parents. Our sea eagle chick has fledged the nest but is still in the area. The chick does not have the magnificent white tail and head of its parents but it is still receiving lessons on flying and hunting.

As the days get shorter the colours of the leaves on the trees, particularly on the east side of Scarba become a spectacular display of reds and golds. The bracken turns a range of bronzes. On the west coast of Scotland there will always be periods of rain, this results in rivulets cascading down the steep island cliffs. With crisp clear skies the scenery can only be described as spectacular.

Atlantic Grey seals. which frequent our waters, colonise on land and give birth to their pups in the autumn. Unlike the

common seal pups, which are jet black in colour and can swim within hours of being born, the grey seal pups are fluffy white just like in a toy shop. These pups must lose their white fur before they can take to the water. Seafari are fortunate to have a colony nearby.

All the nesting seabirds have taken to their natural habitat which is life on the ocean wave. Seabirds really only take to the land to breed and the breeding season is now over. Seabirds do however need to feed and The Gulf of Corryvreckan, with its food rich waters is a natural congregation centre. Many seabirds, such as kittiwake, will have their winter plumage. Migrating birds such as geese will be passing through the area as they head south. Many geese winter on Islay, an island just 40 miles from Easdale.

The red deer rut will happen. Stags will have regrown their antlers ready to attract their harem of females. The stags are now a magnificent red colour and bellow throughout both day and night to defend both their territories and harem. As we view from the sea, the stags seem unperturbed as they do not appear to see any threat coming from our direction.

Whales, dolphins and porpoise can be star attractions on our tours. Whilst the main season for spotting minke whale is drawing to a close these magnificent creatures have been

seen on occasions well into October. Our bottlenose dolphins remain in local waters throughout the year but these pods are travellers covering a vast range throughout the west coast of Scotland. Porpoise on the other hand tend to stay in a local area and again it’s the rich feeding grounds of The Gulf of Corryvreckan which attracts these small cetaceans.

As to the Gulf of Corryvreckan and its whirlpool. The whirlpool works 4 times a day every day. It is a tidal phenomenon and the position of the sun and the moon in relation to the earth dictates how much water flows through the area. Seafari’s friendly office staff are more than happy to offer guidance either by phone (01852 300003) or email (oban@seafari.co.uk). There is always a compromise. If the tidal flow at the time of your tour is high the whirlpools are spectacular but the marine wildlife tends to be less prevalent. If your tour is at slack water we expect more wildlife. For many there is a wish to see marine wildlife and see some activity at the whirlpool. Please just contact the Seafari office for advice.

Seafari tours operate daily (weather permitting) until the end of October. With a contract to provide boat services to Northern Lighthouse Board Seafari keeps a cabin RIB on the water throughout the winter. This boat is available for tours provided minimum passenger numbers can be reached.

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With autumn fast approaching the wildlife focus for Seafari Adventures’ Corryvreckan
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ONCE UpON A TIME...THERE WAS A YEAR OF STORIES

The stories of Scotland are embedded in its culture, and nowhere more so than in the West Highlands, where the landscape breathes magic and you only have to be alone on a misty morning to embrace the possibility of mythical creatures wandering the glen beside you.

Storytelling has a dedicated celebration in 2022, through Scotland’s Year of Stories, a 12-month event which will showcase those inspired by, created, or written here. From local tales and oral traditions, to treasured books and the internationally-known epics of stage and screen, visitors will have the opportunity to read, listen and discover.

Every west Highland community has its tales to tell. Many local place-names are connected to folklore, from the Dog Stone at Dunollie, in Oban, said to be where the giant Finn McCool tied his dog when he went hunting, to Skye’s famous turquoise Faerie Pools, supposedly named when the

local Clan MacLeod chief married a fairy princess.

Monuments in out-of-the-way places recall the work of local bards – in Dalmally, the Duncan Ban MacIntyre Monument boasts spectacular views and recalls the work of a gaelic soldier poet who never learned to read. At nearby Cladich, a roadside cairn remembers Neil Munro, author of the Para Handy stories.

There are settings with darker, true-life tales to tell, too; ruins that were the homes of victims of the Highland clearances, cliff tops that overlook the scenes of shipwrecks, and the eerie site near Ballachulish Bridge, where in 1752 James Stewart was wrongfully hanged for murder.

Scotland’s most iconic stories and settings often feature on film and TV. In the west Highlands there are plenty of locations to visit and re-enact your favourite dramatic scene, whether that’s the opening credits of Outlander, an epic drive from James Bond’s Skyfall (both filmed in Glencoe) or Harry Potter’s journey to school (on a steam train over the Glenfinnan viaduct).

If you are looking to enjoy some local lore in written form, well-stocked bookshops can be found in all of the region’s small towns –and sometimes out of the way places too. Staff here have a wealth of local knowledge and reading recommendations. The Highland Book Prize (highlandbookprize.org.uk) an annual award for books with a Highland

connection, is a great starting point for locally-themed reading recommendations.

Even our most out-of-the-way locations still celebrate a culture of sharing stories, with community bookswaps in quirky locations such as phoneboxes (in Lochgair, Ardfern, Cladich, and Oban’s Rockfield Centre), sheds (on Taynuilt Main Street) and a cupboard on the platform (Dalmally Station).

There are organised celebrations of stories and their authors here too. The village of Benderloch hosts the Bookends Festival in the autumn and pop-up events throughout the year. Mull hosts the West Over Sea

Book Festival, welcoming internationally acclaimed authors, and Colonsay is home to one of the world’s most remote book festivals, each spring. Theatre groups, such as Glendaruel’s Walking Theatre Company, regularly tour the region bringing local and original tales to life.

Many of our stories are celebrations, and never more so than when told at a ceilidh, in a home, or perhaps a village hall or pub. The tales may be slapstick, melancholy, or incorporated into song, but whether served with a whisky, cake or a cuppa, they are always better when shared.

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Ballachulish Bridge crosses the narrows between Loch Leven and Loch Linnhe

Be In Awe

Nestled in the heart of mainland Argyll is Loch Awe - Scotland’s longest freshwater loch spanning 41km of unspoilt, rugged and magical beauty. Four themed itineraries, each exploring a different part of Loch Awe that will make a great day out in full or in part. You’ll find everything on our map and also spot great places to eat and drink.

east loch awe

“Meet the Locals”

Heartfelt Liz

Meet Liz and Graham at their working textile studio set within the Victorian station buildings at Dalmally. Work by local artists is on display and occasional weaving and spinning demonstrations on the platform.

Cakes in the Call Box

During the summer months Holly serves lovely homemade cakes and jams with an honesty box in a restored red call box near Cladich.

Cladich Estate Farm Tour

Meet the award winning Highland Cows of the Cladich Fold with your very own tour guide. Estate Farm Tours last around 2.5 hours and are by all-weather off-road vehicle giving access to the main barn, the open hillside and many historic points of interest.

Kintail Birds of Prey

Meet some of Scotland’s native Birds of Prey at the private Falconry near Eredine on the B840. 25 birds of prey are on display and different experiences are available led by an experienced falconer giving you the opportunity to handle and fly the birds amid magnificent scenery overlooking Loch Awe.

north west loch awe

“Industry in the Making”

Cruachan Dam & Reservoir

A steady walk up the access road in Lochawe village brings you to the mighty Ben Cruachan Dam which was opened in 1965 and offers spectacular views across Loch Awe and Argyll. The dam forms part of a pumped storage hydro scheme with capacity to power 90,000 homes.

The Hollow Mountain

The Cruachan Power Station resides 1km deep inside Ben Cruachan with a visitor centre on the banks of Loch Awe. Guided tours take you into the cavern which is high enough to house the Tower of London

Bonawe Iron Furnace

Britain’s most complete charcoal fuelled ironworks nestles in an idyllic setting at the head of Loch Etive near Taynuilt and amidst Argyll woodland. It operated in the mid 18th century producing pig iron and employed 600 people at the height of its operation.

Glen Nant

A lush Atlantic Oakwood which is a National Nature Reserve managed by Forest and Land Scotland. Glen Nant has a long history of human influence in the woods with 166 archaeological sites recorded dating back to Norse round timber dwellings and many charcoal hearths from the era of Bonawe Furnace.

north loch awe

“The Stones of Time”

St

Conan’s Kirk

The kirk in the village of Lochawe is exceptional both in style and surroundings, with a strong sense of peace and inherent spirituality. Visitors are welcome inside and out - and a must is to explore the much more elaborate south side that overlooks the Loch.

Kilchurn Castle

One of the most photographed castles in Scotland, Kilchurn Castle was a fortress, a comfortable residence and later a garrison stronghold, and contains the oldest surviving barracks on the British mainland. Today it is a ruin having been abandoned in the late 1700s.

Glenorchy and Innishail Church & Graveyard

26 clan chiefs of the Macgregors lie buried near the entrance of the octagonal white church built in 1810. The church and graveyard sit on top of a knoll and overlooks the River Orchy. Inside there are fine stained glass windows from 1898.

Duncan Ban MacIntyre monument

Designed by the same architect as the Wallace Monument in Stirling, this granite structure on top of Dun Athaich celebrates the life of the Gaelic Bard Duncan Ban MacIntyre 1724-1812.

west loch Awe

“Sights to Behold”

Angus’s Garden

A short walk from Barguillean Farm is a stunning nine-acre woodland garden created in 1957 in memory of Betty MacDonald’s son Angus. Set around Loch Angus there is an extensive collection of hybrid rhododendrons and azaleas in a natural unspoilt setting with informal paths and magnificent views.

Deirdre’s Sheiling

A remarkable outdoor space created to tell the tale of Deirdre of the Sorrows and her lover Naoise, a story from the Glenmasan Manuscript which links Ireland with Scotland. A gravel track leads to the Sheiling atop Beinn Glas with stunning views across the land where Deirdre and Naoise lived in the 7th Century.

Avich Falls

The River Avich is one of Argyll’s shortest rivers with a series of waterfalls cascading for a mile between Loch Avich and Loch Awe. There are forestry walks through peaceful oakwoods that are home to red squirrel, deer and pine marten.

Carnasserie Castle & Kilmartin Glen

A ruined 16th century tower house located 5km to the south of Ford and built by John Carswell who published the first book to be printed in Scottish Gaelic. 2km further south is Kilmartin Glen with the most important concentration of Neolithic and Bronze age remains on mainland Scotland.

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We recommend you always check online for opening times and booking requirements. Some places may have temporary restrictions on access for operational or safety reasons or may have special events you can join in. #BeInAwe
19 Explore more at wildaboutargyll.co.uk/visit/loch-awe Scan for full map & guide
Immerse your senses wildaboutargyll.co.uk/aboveandbelow See the five trails and get details about each individual site at Discover more about Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot at argyllhopespot.scot 22. Gigha Garbh Beaches Port Na Chinn Mhoir (Johnny’s Shore) Port Mòr Ardminish Bay 19. Tarbert Tarbert Castle White Shore 20. Kilberry Port Ban 21. West Loch Tarbert Escart Bay 12. Ardfern Village Bay, Loch Craignish 17. Tayvallich Taynish Piggery Taynish Mill 16. Cairnbaan Cruach Mòr Dunardry Summit Dunardry Locks 13. Kilmartin Mòine Mhór 15. Bellanoch Bellanoch Viewpoint 14. Crinan Crinan Basin 11. Arduaine Asknish Bay (Loch Melfort Hotel) Arduaine Jetty 18. Jura Corran Sands 10. Easdale Swimming Quarry 8. Oban Pulpit Hill McCaig’s Tower 3. Loch Creran Queenie Reef Creagan Glasdrum Wood 9. Seil Ellenabeich 7. Taynuilt Kelly’s Pier 2. Appin Port Appin 6. Ganavan/Oban Ganavan Sands Wee Ganavan (Camas Bàn) 1. Duror Cuil Bay 5. Dunbeg SAMS Beach (camas rubha na liathaig) 4. Benderloch Tralee Bay Key Sunset Trail Site Snorkelling Trail Site Dark Sky Trail Site Wild Swimming Trail Site Beach Hunt Trail Site Ferry Route Road Train Hope Spot Area Argyll & the Isles is a scenic delight with its mountains and glens, forests and woodlands, islands and glittering sea lochs – the perfect backdrop for touring the region on foot, two wheels, four wheels or by boat. Yet there is so much more to discover and enjoy ‘Above & Below’ Argyll and our Inner Hebridean islands. Explore our map and discover where you can experience these Above & Below nature based trails centred on the Argyll Coast and Islands Hope Spot and located around the Sound of Jura, Firth of Lorne and Loch Linnhe. All of the sites on our trails have been identified by working closely with our local communities and with insight from local experts. Each offers a memorable experience which changes with the seasons. Once you visit one, you’ll want to visit more!
21 To Glasgow A85 A811 A816 A819 A82 A83 A83 Lochgilphead Dumbarton Wemyss Bay Gourock Tarbet Cairndow Strachur Kilmelford Inverlussa Tayvallich Ardrishaig Garvard Troon Southend to Ballycastle Machrihanish Campbeltown Brodick Lochranza Carradale Skipness Claonaig Tayinloan Port Ellen Craighouse Port Askaig Tarbert Kilberry Kennacraig Portavadie Rothesay Rhubodach Colintraive Kiloran Fionnphort Baile Mor Craignure Scarinish Arinagour Calgary Tobermory Achnacroish Dalmally Connel Crianlarich Tyndrum MULL Oban COLL TIREE Inveraray IONA COLONSAY JURA ISLAY GIGHA KINTYRE BUTE COWAL Helensburgh Crinan Kilmartin Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park MULL OF KINTYRE KNAPDALE Dunoon 8 9 10 11 15 17 16 13 6 4 5 3 2 1 7 Duror Appin Cairnbaan West Loch Tarbert Bellanoch Ardfern Arduaine Seil Easdale Ganavan Dunbeg Taynuilt Benderloch Loch Creran 14 12 18 19 20 21 22 Explore our interactive map online to filter by each trail and get all the info you need.
22

INVERARAY

With its bright waterfront buildings, sparkling harbour, and backdrop of dramatic hills and forest, Inveraray makes a charming first impression that only hints at the experiences to come.

Take a stroll through the quaint town and discover a lovely selection of independent shops, cafes and the popular George Hotel with its flagstones, settles, original 1770’s stone walls, open fire and stunning beer garden. You’ll find gifts, jewellery, whisky shops, souvenirs, traditional fish and chips, a chemist, outdoor wear and a family butcher, among many others.

Inveraray Castle, the fairytale home of Clan Campbell and the current Duke of Argyll, is the town’s chief attraction and was once the setting for a Downton Abbey Christmas special. Its armoury hall displays an impressive collection of weapons, including the handle of outlaw Rob Roy’s dagger. More sedate highlights are the state dining

room and the tapestry drawing room, and the well-cared-for gardens.

Echoes of Inveraray’s murkier past are part of its appeal too. In the 1800s, Inveraray Jail housed offenders from convicted killers to children caught stealing apples. Today, the jail is a living museum where costumed guides tell stories of former inmates and visitors can try out punishments and experience the excitement of a trial in the courtroom.

Perched on a hilltop high above Loch Fyne, the Dun na Cuaiche watchtower is the stone guardian of Inveraray. The 18th-century viewpoint is a relatively short, though challenging walk from Inveraray Castle car park, and provides staggering view of the Fyne

Valley – the town, castle, celebrated bell tower and loch can all be seen from the shelter.

A day trip to Inveraray can also encompass living history at Auchindrain, a farming township (a few miles south of the town) that has been carefully preserved. Head north-east from Inveraray town and you reach Cairndow, a scenic hamlet that is home to the celebrated Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Farm Shop and, for families, the recently-opened Fyne Den play space.

At the very tip of Loch Fyne is Ardkinglas, the stately home and estate that includes Ardkinglass Woodland Garden, home to a remarkable collection of plants and ‘champion’ trees, including some of the tallest, and oldest trees in Britain.

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Aerial view of Inveraray and Loch Fyne Inveraray Castle
24
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picture perfect at The Harbour Gallery

Sporting success can be fleeting and pass in an instant, but Stuart Herd, owner of The Harbour Gallery, is ensuring that these glorious, treasured moments will last forever.

Stuart’s exquisite brushwork has captured some of the most defining moments in rugby. From Scotland’s stunning Calcutta Cup 2021 win at Twickenham last year, to England and Wales, France v Scotland, the British and Irish Lions against South Africa last summer, with more to come during this season’s Six Nations and the road to the World Cup in 2023.

Stuart has established three busy galleries in Scotland, the Harbour Galleries, which are situated along the West Coast of the country, which showcase original paintings and prints by the artist and owner, alongside other local artists’ work, including jewellery, memorabilia and ceramics.

Stuart said: ‘I started painting full time more than 20 years ago. I went to art college briefly but left to work in photography, and did that whilst travelling around the world in different jobs and on different treks. I’ve stayed in a lot of places, but was always drawing and painting at the same time.

‘I had a job as an art auctioneer at Sandals Resorts in Jamaica but left it after six months and made my living on the island as an artist for another two-and-a-half years! This was tough work, but I thought, if I can make my living out there, I can do it anywhere. So, I decided to come home and set up in Scotland as an artist.’

Stuart’s work depicts recognisable locations from throughout Scotland, especially in and around the locations of his three galleries, in Tarbert, Ullapool and Inveraray.

His distinctive style also sees him paint Highland cows on canvas, as well as paintings on top of Ordnance Survey maps. The artist continues: ‘I mostly work with acrylics but I do oil now and again.

‘I’ll sit and sketch if I have the time, but the majority of my work is done from photographs in the studio, but for me that’s part of the process: you look for an angle and work from that. You use the camera to capture that angle, especially if you are going to paint a building, as my work is quite realistic I need that detail.

‘But I never work on one painting from start to finish. I’m always jumping around!’

Stuart’s attention to detail can be seen in his rugby prints, especially those capturing match action, with the stadia in the background – some of the players who have appeared in his paintings have bought the originals.

Stuart says: ‘ The Last Scrum Before The Try was done in February last year, and I’ve done a limited edition print run of 500, and well over three-quarters have sold already. That went really well.

‘I have done a few more Scottish paintings, then I painted the Springboks versus the Lions in the first Test. One of the Lions’ front row got in touch afterwards and bought the original.

‘It’s varied subject matter, from the rugby art to Scottish landscapes, to European cityscapes, to superyachts on nautical charts. I have exhibited in galleries across Europe.’

Stuart’s work can be found in corporate and private collections worldwide.

But owning art galleries wasn’t part of Stuart’s original plan. After an accident which saw him lose an eye. He struggled to paint for more than a year during surgery, and ended up having to have his eye removed. It was during this time he decided to start his business career and opened his first gallery.

He says: ‘Although I’m an artist, I also own three galleries,

in Ullapool, Tarbert and Inveraray. Some 90 per cent of the artwork sold there is done by myself, from £2,000 originals to £20 prints.’

The Harbour Gallery, Tarbert, is located on the Harbour Front and his studio is also on the Quay. The newly opened Inveraray Gallery in Argyll is situated on the Main Street, while the Ullapool gallery can be found in the heart of the village.

Although the galleries are far apart in terms of mileage, Stuart uses the time when travelling between them to find new regions and to explore new ideas for future paintings.

For more information, and to see further examples of Stuart’s work, visit www.theharbourgallery.com

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Acclaimed artist Stuart Herd’s love of rugby and landscapes can be found at his three west coast galleries: Tarbert, Ullapool and Inveraray
The Harbour GalleryTarbert - Ullapool - Inveraray

INVeraraY

Top things to see, do and experience

Inveraray Castle

One of the West’s most popular attractions, Inveraray Castle is the ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll. The Armoury Hall and opulent Tapestry Drawing Room are highlights of a tour. inveraray-castle.com

Auchindrain

Learn about Argyll’s rural history in this living museum where you can explore the homes of the crofters of the past and get hands on learning about traditional skills. auchindrain.org.uk

Loch Fyne Oyster Bar

The internationally famous seafood brand started out here, in a shed, in the 1970s. You can dine in more comfortable surroundings now, but the sparkling view and the fresh oysters, mussels and salmon, remain as memorable. lochfyne.com

Argyll Adventures

Get out and about on horseback around Loch Fyne. Argyll Adventures offer scenic pony treks and riding lessons, plus paintball and crossbow ranges and laser storm. argylladventure.com

Fyne Den

Indoor Adventure Zone and new Adventure Garden! Play Sessions 1hour 45 minutes. Check for opening hours and ticket prices. Cairndow, next to Loch Fyne Oysters off the A83.

Email:- info@thefyneden.com

Tel: 01499 320429

Mob: 07931 656706

Inveraray Jail

Step back in time in this historic jail and courthouse. Meet guides (and waxworks) dressed in period costume, and marvel at the conditions and punishments the inmates of the past were subjected to. inverarayjail.co.uk

Ardkinglas Woodland Garden

With views across Loch Fyne, this spectacular garden boasts a collection of record-breaking trees, and plenty for young visitors, including a Fairy Trail and Scotslanguage Gruffalo Trail. ardkinglas.com

The Here We Are Centre

Behind the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, this community hub includes an exhibition space, archives, post office and a tiny hereweare-uk.com

Fyne Ales

Brewing over 70 different beers annually, this farm brewery welcomes visitors to the banks of Loch Fyne where you can take a tour or sample a variety of ales in the tap room. fyneales.com

Crarae Gardens

Discover Britain’s finest example of a Himalayan-style garden - although no yetis have been spotted to date! Explore this peaceful paradise with its gorge, rippling burn, waterfalls and cliffs.Open 10am - 5pm, gardens, shop, cafe. Crarae, near Inveraray, PA32 8YA

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THE COOlEST NEW WATERSpORT ON THE plANET HAS ARRIVED ON THE WEST COAST OF SCOTlAND.

As recently as just a year ago, only a handful of people were participating in the exciting new sport of Wingfoiling here.

That number has been steadily growing, mostly attracting individuals already proficient in Windsurfing, Kitesurfing, etc, but this isn’t an essential prerequisite.

“You don’t need to have any previous experience in sailing sports, to take the first steps into Winging”.

Obviously there are some very basic principles which all users of craft driven by the wind have to adhere to, but the simplicity of the symmetrical wing makes learning these very easy and safe.

The board is really similar to a Stand-Up-Paddleboard (SUP), but instead of using a paddle to move, you propel and steer the board with an inflated wing.

The wing itself weighs very little, it easily lifts on the lightest of breezes.

For some, images of people flying above the water at speed on a Hydrofoil, might appear daunting, but unless you wish to ‘foil’, you can just enjoy WingSUP, a great new sport in its own right.

By using a board which only has surfboard fins underneath, you don’t rise up above the surface.

For those who wish to progress to feel the exhilarating sensation of being up and ‘flying’ on the Hydrofoil, all you need is speed!

In winds as low as 10mph, it’s possible to rise up out of the water to ‘glide’ on the low drag underwater wing and stabilizer of the ‘foil’.

It’s a bit of a game-changer, to be honest!

You instantly have to switch to steering by using toe

or heel pressure and controlling height by weighting the front or back foot.

These movements need to be very subtle, as everything feels extremely responsive.

Expect to experience a number of ‘wipeouts’ during early attempts at getting up onto the foil.

However, that’s all part of the fun of learning and you’ll soon feel you’ve got better control, along with achieving long ‘flights’.

Of course, then you’ve got to learn to turn it all around without falling off!

They make it look so easy on the numerous online video clips you can watch, even jumping, looping and riding waves.

At the extreme end of the scale, some riders are even embarking on long downwind runs, using the swell to propel their boards more than the wind.

Loch Fyne, from Tarbert to Ardrishaig, has become a favourite trip with a few of the best local Wingfoilers.

It’s best not to try to run before you can walk, though.

In fact, with Wing Sports it’s even better not to try to walk before you can crawl.

The initial cost of the kit can be a couple of thousand pounds, or more, so taking some beginner Winging lessons with a suitable provider will give you an opportunity to find out if WingSUP or Wingfoiling is for you, first.

For more information contact Dave 07891 861393 www.kayakmajik.co.uk info@kayakmajik.co.uk

Paddlesport Lessons

• Sea Kayak Tours

• Trips for Beginners

• WingSUP Tuition

• Hire & Go - Canoes, SOKs & SUPs

Responsible Paddler

• Journeying Skills

• Wildlife and the Environment

• Safety Training

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HEART OF ARGYll

Welcome to the Heart of Argyll, with our outstanding national nature reserves, abundant wildlife, prehistoric landscape, stunning coastal scenery, pristine marine environment, West Coast sunsets and dark skies, we have it all.

Stretching from the picturesque fishing village of Tarbert, Loch Fyne in the south to Loch Craignish in the north, over to Knapdale and Crinan in the west, across to Inveraray and Loch Awe in the east; with Kilmartin Glen in its midst, the Heart of Argyll boasts some of the most precious environments in Europe. Discover Atlantic woodlands, rare temperate rainforest, its canopy dripping with lichens and the floor swathed in mosses, ferns and bryophytes. Explore the official area for Scottish beaver re-introduction and their expanding

eco-engineered wetlands linking freshwater lochs throughout their territory. Our coastal margins are varied with expansive areas of alder carr, salt marsh, tidal flats and fingers of rocky promontories, the knaps and dales, reaching into the sea, all creating micro-habitats. We are also home to one of Europe’s largest and most endangered of habitats, the raised peat bog at Moine Mhor (Great Moss).

Historic Kilmartin Glen has the most important concentration of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in mainland Scotland, including some of the earliest animal carvings. At least 800 ancient monuments, of which 150 are prehistoric, lie within six miles of Kilmartin village.

Take time to explore the smaller roads and tracks that meander through our rugged natural landscape and deliver you to stunning castles, abandoned settlements, secret beaches, fishing villages, our native woodlands and temperate rainforest and “Britain’s most beautiful short cut”, the Crinan Canal.

Wildlife Boat trips take you from Crinan Harbour and Seil Island to visit the world-famous Corryvreckan Whirlpool or from Tarbert Harbour to explore beautiful Loch Fyne, including an opportunity to take a guided wild swim in secret coves. If that is not special enough, the sheer diversity of wildlife the area has to offer and rugged

coastal vistas will overwhelm your senses. Unique visitor experiences also include Auchindrain Highland farm township museum, Inveraray Jail and the stunning Himalayan gardens at Crarae. Visit www.heartofargyll.com or scan our QR code to access our free guidebook and unlock the secrets of a welcoming place to stay, fabulous food and amazing things to do and see. Whether you intend to explore by car, by bike, to sail, kayak, SUP or swim or just to wander, there is an adventure waiting. A week is not long enough!

29 For more information visit www.heartofargyll.com or scan the QR code
Carnassarie castle in the mist Photograph: Marc Pickering Temple Wood, Kilmartin Glen
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hearT oF arGYll

Top things to see, do and experience

Knapdale Beavers

Visit the Beaver and Wildlife Centre at Barrandaimh – home of the Scottish Beavers. Explore the habitat of these amazing ecoengineers and learn about the animals and plants that benefit from their activities.

www.argyllbeavercentre.co.uk

Crarae Gardens

These Himalayan gardens extend either side of a river gorge above Loch Fyne. Mature rhododendrons, magnolias and camelias, and immense trees from around the globe are among the treats on show. www.nts.org.uk

Kilmartin Glen

Stretching between the ancient seat of Kings, Dunadd Fort and architecturally important Carnassarie Castle and peppered with the finest prehistoric rock art in Scotland, standing stones, stone circles and burial cairns. www.kilmartin.org

Coasts and Waters

Walk or cycle the myriad coastal paths, hill and forest trails, meander through Atlantic rainforest, investigate castles and ancient settlement ruins, discover our secret beaches and pristine waters. Follow the footsteps of the early Celtic Saints or take a trip via boat, kayak or swim. Or test your MTB skills on the Fire Tower Trails at Achnabreac.

www.heartofargyll.com

Exceptional Local Ingredients

The freshest of seafood is one of the highlights of the produce offering from our fabulous restaurants and independent food retailers. We also excel at coffee and cake and light bites, including vegan and gluten-free options in our cafes and coffee stops. www.heartofargyll.com

National Nature Reserves

The National Nature Reserves at Taynish and Moine Mhor and the wetlands of the Add Estuary show off their Autumn colours, there’s a host of wildfowl, hen harriers, buzzards and roe, red or sika deer to be spotted.. www.nature.scot

Crinan Canal

Walk, run, cycle, or just sit and watch the world go by. 9 miles of towpath joining Loch Fyne to Loch Crinan. Nature and engineering side-by-side. www.scottishcanals.co.uk

Social History

Step back in time at a variety of attractions, from the most complete example of rural living in the historic township of Auchindrain, coastal and canal exhibition at the Eggshed in Ardrishaig to 19th Century prison life at Inveraray jail and Courtroom. Be transported to the past through real life stories. www.auchindrain.org.uk; www.Inverarayjail.co.uk

The Corryreckan

The third largest tidal whirlpool in the world is on our doorstep. Marvel in the power of the sea, the wild coastal scenery and the astonishing marine and sea-life of the Argyll Hope Spot. You’ll find details on our website of amazing boat tours. Departing from different points along our coast, there’ll be one that’s perfect for you. www.heartofargyll.com

Retail Therapy and Art Trail

Discover our independent shops, galleries, artist studios and exhibitions. Including edible Pick ‘n’ Mix favourites and delicious icecream! Treat yourself to a memento of a fantastic visit to the Heart of Argyll. www.heartofargyll.com

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COWAl

Cowal is only a short drive from Glasgow, or an even shorter boat trip across the Firth of Clyde from Gourock to Dunoon, but the minutes invested in travelling here can feel like they’ve taken you a millennium away.

For those who want to taste the highlights of the West Highlands on a tight schedule, it’s a perfect choice.

Accessibility helped Cowal to become a popular steamer trip destination in the early 1900s, and Dunoon,

its main town, grew to its current size largely as a result. Today, you can still enjoy a stroll along the town’s seaside promenade, where fans of Robert Burns will note that the statue of his sweetheart Highland Mary is gazing south towards the poet’s Ayrshire home. Alternatively, browse the shops for local produce and gifts, or uncover local history at the historic Castle House Museum.

Set in lush mountainside just outside Dunoon, Benmore Botanic Gardens boasts 120 acres of exotic and colourful plantations. An awe-inspiring avenue of giant redwoods welcomes visitors to the attraction and further exploration transports you to globally-themed plantings from the Tasmanian Ridge to a Bhutanese Glade.

An the

Cowal’s attraction lies largely in its wild landscape, which blends a craggy coast, formidable forests and majestic mountains, so it’s little wonder that it draws those in search of an outdoor adventure, whether they choose to head off the beaten track, or take advantage of the established scenic hiking and biking

routes.

This is an exceptional place to sail. The views are memorable and there’s a choice of marinas, inlets and quiet

anchorages, as well as yachting events to either enjoy or compete in. Other water sports, from kayaking to paddle-boarding and rib-boat trips, give a fresh perspective on the ocean.

Forests define Cowal as much as the coast does, and it is home to the celebrated Argyll Forest Park which includes plenty of marked walks for all abilities and visual treats, including lochs and waterfalls.

For memorable hillwalking here, head to the north tip of Cowal and Glen Croe, home to the Rest and be Thankful (so named because of the inscription ‘Rest and be Thankful’ carved a stone by soldiers who built the old military road at the site in the 18th century) or make the village of Arrochar your base to explore

the nearby ‘Arrochar Alps’ which include The Cobbler, one of Scotland’s most popular mountains.

DIARY DATE:

Dunoon Dazzles

Live Christmas entertainment and attractions for the whole family. A full weekend of entertainment including: Skaledonia, The Laurettes, Christmas Street Market, Community light switch on, Paulo Martini, Trail West, Abigail Pryde, Santas grotto with live reindeer, Arties Singing Kettle and many more!

25th - 26th November 2022 www.dunoonpresents.co.uk

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Argyll Forest Park Panoramic landscape at dusk with setting sun and red sky turning the water pink viewed towards the Cowal peninsula from Canada Hill viewpoint near Rothesay

coWal hand picked

Top things to see, do and experience

Benmore Botanic Gardens

Walk along Benmore’s avenue of towering redwoods and you gain a sense of the age and stature of this mountainside garden. Highlights include spring rhododendron displays and the Victorian fernery. rbge.org.uk

Argyll Forest Park

The UK’s first Forest Park, stretching from the Holy Loch to the peaks of the Arrochar Alps. Highlights include Glenbranter’s Allt Robuic gorge, once owned by music hall star Harry Lauder. forestryandland.gov.scot

Dunoon

This Victorian resort retains its traditional seaside charm. Explore the shops, stroll along the promenade (under the gaze of a statue of Robert Burns’ sweetheart, Highland Mary) or paddle at West Bay.

Castle House Museum

Dunoon Castle was abandoned in the 17th century, but its site still boasts impressive views. Nearby Castle House Museum is a treasuretrove of local artefacts and was built partly using stone from the original castle. Castlehousemuseum.org.uk

Ardentinny Beach

Keep your eyes peeled on Ardentinny Beach – for seals in the water, raptors above and treasures such as pebbles and shells at your feet. Picnic on the beach, or explore buggy-friendly trails nearby.

Puck’s Glen

A magical spot with an appropriately magical name, Puck’s Glen is a deep gorge with a cascade of waterfalls set in shady forest near Benmore Gardens. Will you encounter the forest sprites?

The Smiddy

This 19th-century blacksmith’s forge remains operational as the heart of a tiny, fascinating folk museum in the village of Strachur.

Loch Eck

A seven-mile ribbon of fresh water, Loch Eck teems with fish, including the rare powan, salmon, and arctic char. There are paths for walkers, including to the Paper Caves, where key local documents are said to have been hidden.

Glenfinart Walled Garden

Originally the kitchen garden of the Glenfinart Estate, this Victorian walled garden is now community owned and run. Explore the sensory garden, children’s area, orchards and raised beds. Dogs welcome on leads.

Walking

Cowal has walking routes for everyone, from challenging routes to the rocky Arrochar Alps (such as the Cobbler and Ben Vorlich) to flatter loch-side paths just right for buggies and bikes. forestryandland.gov.scot

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34

E CHOES OF THE pA ST ON EAST COWA l’ S TRAI l S

Puck, the mischievous sprite from Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream, would be suitably impressed by the idyllic Argyll woodland trail that bears his name.

Puck’s Glen, just a five minute drive from Dunoon with its ferry links to Greenock and Gourock, is one of a number of historical and natural landmarks that form part of the East Cowal Heritage Outdoors (ECHO) trails.

Dotted around a small peninsula that forms part of the spectacular but little known Cowal region of Argyll, the ECHO Trails represent an effective ‘packaging’ of an area that really could lay claim to being a geographical and geological gateway to the Scottish Highlands. The project was officially launched in July 2022 with the help of partner organisations that include the Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park, Forestry & Land Scotland, Historic Scotland and the Argyll & Isles Tourism Co-operative. Accessed by both foot passenger and car ferries from Greenock and Gourock respectively, as well as by car through the stunning Rest & Be Thankful mountain pass, east Cowal comprises of a number of small settlements including Kilmun, Ardentinny, Strone, Blairmore and Lochgoilhead and loops around the banks of Holy Loch and Lochs Long, Goil and Eck.

This is an area, originally part of the kingdom of Dalriada, that has played a pivotal role in the moulding of Scotland through the ages with early Christian faith playing a part alongside some truly grim and gruesome clan rivalries.

The gorge that Puck’s Glen meanders through was developed by the Laird of Benmore, James Duncan, in the 1870s. The 2.8km walkway, categorised as a strenuous trail, is an enchanting and mystical journey through a lush habitat that’s rich in mosses and ferns and punctuated with delightful waterfall after delightful waterfall. It also showcases the finest aspects of the Argyll

Forest, the UK’s oldest managed forest that dates back to the 1930s.

Just down the road in Kilmun there’s a clearly signposted arboretum with a number of walking trails of differing length and challenge that features trees from five different continents. It’s a showroom, if you like, for the forest as a whole but one that reflects the international roots associated with Argyll and this corner of Cowal specifically.

There’s Elizabeth Blackwell for starters.

Starter of a revolution in the field of healthcare as well as being a social reformer and genuine changemaker. She forged a path in the mid 19th century as one of the first female doctors in the world, opening up opportunities for millions of women ever since and breaking down barriers wherever she worked in the US, France and across the UK.

Elizabeth was laid to rest just a few yards beyond the arboretum at St Munns Church, now home to the Historic Kilmun community and heritage organisation. It also hosts Faith in Cowal, an organisation that’s established a number of popular pilgrimage trails across the entirety of the Cowal peninsulas.

There’s a wealth of local stories to be found at this church-come-museum with visitors exploring Kilmun’s fascinating heritage as well as the resting place for countless Dukes of Argyll and Campbell clan chiefs. Further on down the A880 coast road, pier pressure begins to tell with Kilmun, Strone and Blairmore’s marine promontories piercing the shoreline of the Holy Loch and Loch Long. All date back to the Victorian era when this part of the world became the ‘go to’ place for thousands of Glaswegians. They still do but are now joined by visitors from across the UK and much further afield enticed by that mystical grip that Scotland’s lochs and mountains exert on the human soul.

Further on, the village of Ardentinny has a wealth of history and nature to draw the visitors in. From the beach, a wild camping magnet for responsible campervanners with a network of different walks, to the Dun Daraich stone age fort that’s all but hidden from sight.

From here, overlooking the Coulport nuclear submarine base, there’s a 5 mile shoreline walk to the 17th Century Carrick Castle, now a private residence but another site resonant in conflict as a focal point for the many grisly feuds between the Campbell and the Lamont clans. Time it right and you’ll be able to get the minibus back!

Follow the road over to the Whistlefield Inn and you’ll be rewarded with some truly iconic vistas over Loch Eck. It’s money shot after money shot for those photographers with a fondness for exquisite natural compositions…as well as a decent pint and quality food in what is a supremely located, 17th Century drover’s inn! It’s up there with the Clachaig in Glencoe and the Sligachan on Skye as Scotland’s finest hostelries.

Turn right here onto the A815 and you’ll soon be at Lauder Monument, an impressively positioned shrine to John Lauder, a victim of World War One and son of Harry Lauder who purchased the Glenbranter estate in 1916. Harry was an international superstar at the turn of the 20th Century, performing all over the world and becoming the highest paid entertainer on the planet.

Glenbranter, just beyond the conclusion of Loch Eck, also offers a range of paths for all abilities that snake their way through a vibrant forestscape.

Head back towards Dunoon past another exquisite, picture postcard hostelry, the

Coylet Inn.

There are 10 key locations within the ECHO Trails along with a number of places of interest as well as woodland walks, hikes and cycling trails across this small part of a small part of Argyll.

There is so much to see and do in what is a microcosm of everything Scottish Highlands…but a wee bit closer to home.

When describing the humans entering his woodland fairy realm, Puck utters one of his most famous lines “What fools these mortals be”. You’ll beg to differ. Spend a few days exploring this forested and loch fringed world and you’ll be feeling far from foolish …and decidedly pucker!

www.echotrails.org

A free app “ECHO Trails” is also available to download

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You’ll soon be back at Puck’s Glen but not before coming across the fantastic Benmore Gardens. It’s a large botanical paradise spread across the foothills of Beinn Mhòr and a heavenly haven for anyone with a passion for plants in their myriad forms.
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HElENSBURGH

Helensburgh and Lomond is the gateway to Argyll, situated on the Clyde Sea Lochs, and including the west bank of Loch Lomond and the Arrochar Alps. With several train stations throughout the area on the West Highland Line, it has fantastic transport connections to both the west coast and the central belt, and makes a great day-trip destination.

In Helensburgh, visit Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s famous Hill House and the

award-winning architectural chainmail ‘Box’ protecting it. Take a boat trip on the Clyde to see the ‘Sugar Boat’ shipwreck, enjoy the wonderful natural attractions of Geilston and Glenarn Gardens, or explore the Scottish Submarine Centre and Outdoor Museum. Families are well catered for with the new Helensburgh Leisure Centre, play facilities at Hermitage Park, and a farm park nearby. The town also has a range of unique independent shops and galleries, and highly rated restaurants, making it an ideal destination for a day out.

The beautiful conservation village of Luss on Loch Lomond is the ancestral home of Clan Colquhoun. As well as picture postcard views, the settlement has a fascinating history, including an 11th century Viking hogback grave in the churchyard. There are several fabulous gift shops and eateries, and younger visitors will enjoy the faerie trail.

Ardlui offers watersports on Loch Lomond, and Arrochar is a great base for Munro-bagging and mountain-biking. The whole area includes a number

of trails such as the Loch Lomond and Cowal Way, Three Lochs Way, John Muir Way and Argyll Sea Kayak Trail. The Clyde Sea Lochs Trail is a 65 mile road route from Dumbarton to Arrochar, including the Rosneath Peninsula with its own fascinating heritage trails. Kilcreggan Pier is a regular stop for the Waverley Paddle Steamer on its Clyde cruises, and the Peninsula offers stunning views down the Firth of Clyde to Bute and Arran.

Explore more...www.destinationhelensburgh.org

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heleNSbUrGh hand picked

Top FIVE things to see, do and experience Hill

House

Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s architectural masterpiece turns art into a home.

Be inspired by the unique building, interiors and collection designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh in the ‘Glasgow style’. www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/the-hill-house

The Tower

The Tower Digital Arts Centre is a charity managed by volunteers. The centre brings arts, heritage, digital experiences and learning together under one roof.

With 2 cinema screens to choose from showing the latest movies and a great program of live performances in the main auditorium, there is always something for everyone that will keep you entertained throughout the year. www.thetower.org.uk

The Submarine Centre

The centre provides visitors with information about submarines and how they work. The centre uses immersive video and audio to provide learning experiences about the exploits of the submarine service and the people involved. www.submarinecentre.org

Hermitage Park

Hermitage Park is a set of formal gardens containing attractive fields, shrubbery and a fascinating old mill. Hermitage Park is based near the centre of Helensburgh on the Clyde Estuary and covers approximately 4.7 hectares. It features both well-maintained bowling and putting greens, which are always kept in a pristine state.

www.destinationhelensburgh.org

The Outdoor Museum

As part of the redevelopment of Colquhoun Square in Helensburgh, over 100 granite bollards were placed around the Square. These were designed to be used as plinths to display objects, images and texts of significance to the town, and explore and celebrate the rich and varied history of Helensburgh for local residents and visitors. Find out more... www.theoutdoormuseum.com

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Hermitage Park photo: Lairich Rig

Make Helensburgh the Gateway to your Argyll Adventure

Enjoy the great outdoors on the Three Lochs Way, John Muir Way, Argyll Sea Kayak Trail and Clyde Sea Lochs Trail, plus Munro-bagging, Mountain-biking, Watersports, Golf and more. Plan a day-trip adventure on the Glen Fruin Cycle Loop, or follow one of the trails in the Discover Helensburgh App to find out all about the area’s fascinating history. Visit Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s Hill House, Geilston Garden NTS, the Scottish Submarine Centre and the Outdoor Museum, or take a boat trip on the Clyde and get up close to the ‘Sugar Boat’ shipwreck and maybe even see some dolphins!

destinationhelensburgh.org

Browse in unique independent shops and galleries, stroll along the seafront promenade, eat in award-winning restaurants, and relax in a boutique hotel or B&B. Experience our fabulous Festive Lights and Winter Festival, and hear from renowned authors at Cove & Kilcreggan Book Festival. With fantastic transport links, including the ScotRail Highland Explorer on the West Highland Line, Helensburgh & Lomond is the perfect Gateway for your Argyll Adventure.

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ARGYll’S SECRET COAST

On the south west tip of the Cowal Peninsula is a small but special destination that might have escaped your notice – and that explains its name. Argyll’s Secret Coast may be a little off the beaten track, but it more than repays exploration.

Shaped by a collection of dramatic sea lochs, including Loch Goil and Loch Riddon, and comprising a scenic string of villages, beaches and coves, it boasts history, wildlife, hospitality and more. The arts scene here is vibrant, too, with events and exhibitions year round and a choice of arts and crafts inspired by the surroundings. Two beautiful stretches of water, the Kyles of Bute and Loch Fyne, flank Argyll’s Secret Coast. Together, they lend atmosphere and life, and provide endless pleasure for visitors, whether observing their riches from the shore, or heading out for an immersive ocean experience – perhaps a swim, a sailing trip, or exploring by kayak or canoe.

Although it is geography that creates the remarkable setting, it is vibrant communities that bring that setting to life, from Col-

intraive (from where you can catch a ferry to nearby Bute) with its community garden and impressively painted heritage centre, to Glendaruel, a medieval battle site that is home to Dunan’s Castle and the historic Kilmodan Church, and the peaceful Otter Ferry. Portavadie’s marina provides extensive facilities and a spa resort for those travelling by land or sea who crave luxury with a breath-taking backdrop. As well as a restaurant and gym, the resort is home to Scotland’s biggest outdoor infinity pool – a unique spot from which to enjoy the views. It’s even more magical after dark.

A fishing and sailing destination with a cafe culture, Tighnabruaich has distinctive charm. It is also the local home of the fierce highland sport of shinty. Kames is smaller and peaceful, but it wasn’t always so – it was once the home of a gunpowder mill.

Argyll’s Secret Coast has walking and cycling routes for travellers of all abilities. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife, especially in woodlands such as Kilfinan Community Forest or Glenan Wood, where you could spot red squirrels, deer and woodpeckers as well as an abandoned village. For a coastal walk with views to breathe in, head to Carry Point at Carry Farm, or for ancient history, visit the standing stones at Stillaig via a stunning walk across the headland from Portavadie.

Argyll’s Secret Coast offers respite for those seeking solitude, but there is a social scene to explore, too, and you’ll find atmosphere and quality cuisine in the hotels, bars and restaurants, where menus consistently offer fresh local produce, including seafood sourced close by.

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Loch Goil from the Dukes Pass towards Drimsynie Kilbride Bay, Tighnabruaich Kyles of Bute

arGYll’S SecreT coaST hand picked Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Boating

The stunning setting of Argyll’s Secret Coast makes it a popular starting point for excursions on the water, whether you opt for a fishing trip, a wildlife tour, or people power via kayak. Sailing lessons for beginners and more advanced seafarers are available at Tighnabruaich Sailing School. Tssargyll.co.uk

Otter Ferry

Walk along the pebble beach to Otter Spit for a great nature-watching vantage point. Or enjoy a pint in the local pub overlooking the pier.

Ostel Bay

This Tighnabruaich beauty spot is well hidden, but it’s worth the walk through wildflower-coverd machair to reach a peaceful, sandy crescent bay.

St Finan’s Church

Kilfinan’s 13th-century parish church houses a collection of ancient burial stones, including the Inveryne Stone. The village also has its own community forest, with a range of trails, some decorated with artwork by local school pupils.

Portavadie

The Portavadie complex includes a marina, hotel and self-catering options. Its chief attraction is the spa, which has indoor and outdoor swimming and a heated infinity pool with views of Loch Fyne.

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42

ISLE OF BUTE

Arguably one of Scotland’s most accessible islands, the Isle of Bute is situated in the Firth of Clyde and is home to a wealth of attractions for any holiday maker.

Bute’s locality to Scotland’s West Coast has made its history abundant and its visitor offering varied all year round. Only a 50 minute train trip from Glasgow travelling to Wemyss Bay Station where the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry sails every hour. Wemyss Bay Station will be the first to pique your ‘on holiday’ feeling. An architectural delight you will walk down the recently refurbed filigree glass and steel curved platform as the same path trodden by a wealth of Glaswegian and Central belt holiday makers who used Bute from the Victorian era as their summers break ‘doon the watter’.

Modern day Bute has you sailing smack bang into the main town of Rothesay as your first port of call, with a surprising array of independent shops, numerous bars, a gin garden and cafes and restaurants to try. Settled around the 12th Century moated Rothesay Castle is Bute Museum, housing a compact yet extensive collection of artifacts in a building provided by the Marquess of Bute in 1927.

Rothesay’s unique Victorian Toilets opened in 1900 to accommodate the huge number of visitors arriving at Rothesay Pier. Two centuries later they still reveal some of the most elegant urinals in Britain! Additional loos for the ladies they were upgraded in the early 1990’s and are free to use for visitors and sailors who can use the facilitated step on pontoons in Rothesay harbour.

masterpiece architecturally unsurpassed by any stately house, the 3rd Marquess oversaw an innovative design that completed a palatial home being the first house in Scotland with electric lights and thought to be the world’s first domestic heated swimming pool! Still the seat of the Stuart family, Mount Stuart has been held in a Trust since 1989 and is open from March until October for entry paying visitors.

You’ll have an elevated perspective around the island with several hop-on hop -off points to enjoy beaches and places of interest. You can be as active or inactive as you want on Bute, with thrilling rib rides, loch fishing, walking, cycling, paddle boarding, wild swimming, kayaking or just walking with your dog available to you all year round. The more curious could attempt the West Island Way which covers more than 28 miles, with frequent finger posts allowing you to pass through the medieval and mysterious St Blane’s Chapel at the South to abandoned townships in Glen More at the North end.

Bute’s varied accommodation boasts everything from quirky seaside glamping pods, boutique suites, luxury self catering flats, traditional guest houses to whole house lets with unsurpassed sea views.

An island only 15 miles long and 5 miles wide, Bute has the capacity to delight most visitors from its naturally clear skies and frequent aurora borealis sightings to its accessible animal habitats revealing otters, seals, porpoises, birds of prey and most recently a new scurry of red squirrels! Whether it’s a genuine ‘getaway’ feel nearby, or a fun filled family Scottish staycation, intriguing Bute should be your first Scottish island to visit!

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Bute’s jewel in her crown is the stunning Mount Stuart House and Gardens, proudly sitting to the east coast of the island. A Gothic Revivalist Amphitheatre Rothesay
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bUTe hand picked

Top things to see, do and experience

Bute Museum

Bute museum is a treasure trove of historical artifacts. Pop in and have a gander and learn more about this fabulous wee island, it’s bigger than you think.

www.butemuseum.org.uk

Wild Bute

Private Tours & Short Breaks on Bute.

Scenery, Wildlife, Stone Circles, Early Christian Sites, Vikings, Castles & Royal House of Stuart too! www.wildbute.com

Beaches

Pack a picnic and enjoy a day at one of Bute’s many beaches. Ettrick Bay seems to be a real favourite with a tearoom and play park close by.

Rothesay Castle

Dates back to the early 13th Century this moated castle is remarkably well preserved in spite of its age. Built by the Stewart family to defend against invading Norwegian fleets.

Cycling / Walking

Lots of bikes for hire on Bute to enjoy a cycle round the island or get your walking boots on and follow Bute’s West Island Way trail.

Doon The Watter Isle of Bute Tel: 07748405483 www.walkhighlands.co.uk/ argyll/west-island-way.shtml

St. Blane’s Church

The extensive ruins of St Blane’s Church lies close to the southern tip of the Isle of Bute. Built in a sheltered hollow near the top of a south facing slope, this site comes complete with beautiful views to the Isle of Arran.

Mount Stuart House

A world prized Gothic masterpiece, the original house was built in 1719 for the 2nd Earl of Bute, but was rebuilt for The 3rd Marquess of Bute following a fire on 3 December 1877.

www.mountstuart.com

Boat Trips

Bute Boat Tours provides boat trips around Bute, Argyll and the Firth of Clyde on a high performance RIB, Commando One. www.buteboattours.co.uk

Paddleboarding

Spoilt for choice when looking for water activities on the beautiful island of Bute. Paddle Boarding, Kayaking and a large selection of high-quality equipment and a wide array of activities for all ages. www.butepaddleboards.co.uk

Rhubodach & Bute

Community Forest

At the far North of the island we are very lucky to have our own Community Forest with lots going on to see. Beyond the forest is an enjoyable walk up to the most amazing view of the Kyles of Bute and our very own tree swing.

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FOOd & dRink on Bute

ReSTaURanTS

Bonnie & Clyde

A small family run restaurant located on the sea front of the Isle of Bute. Friendly staff, cosy atmosphere serving local sourced produce. BYOB

Tel: 01700 503777

Harry Haw’s

The best of takeaway food restaurant style. Grab and Go takeaway with booth seating as well as a fantastic specials board.

Tel: 01700 505857

Musicker

Offers a great range of delicious homemade vegetarian soups, sandwiches and cakes. With Vegan options available.

Tel: 01700 502287

Zavaroni’s

Serving a variety of snacks for breakfast and lunch. It is also home to the famous traditional Zavaroni homemade ice cream.

Tel: 01700 502928

The Coffee Stop

With a lovely range of fresh sandwiches and salads, some with a Greek twist, as well as homemade cakes. A pleasant café to sit and enjoy the views of the castle.

Tel: 01700 505545

West End Café

Tel: 01700 503596

Brechin’s On Bridgend Street

The Waterfront

Offers delicious, traditional Polish and Mediterranean dishes, with a beautiful view over the sea.

Tel: 07865533232

The Glenburn

This Hotel commands fabulous views overlooking Rothesay Bay and the Cowal Peninsula. The main lounge bar is a great place to enjoy an array of food and drink.

Tel: 01700 502500

Wee Zoe’s Café

Zoe and Tom have recently taken over this café from Maggie Zavaroni and has continued its excellent standard of service offering a vast range of hot & cold snacks/meals and of course ice cream.

Tel: 07545397105

The Jam Jar

A relaxed environment to enjoy Tea/ Coffee and a Cake, a Beer/Wine and a Snack, a Milkshake and an Ice-cream,

Ambience

Small seaside café serving good quality, locally sourced, homemade food in a friendly atmosphere.

Tel: 01700 505961

The Esplanade

Situated prominently beside the Harbour with spectacular views over Rothesay Bay and at the rear, Rothesay Castle. Serving good quality, traditional Scottish meals.

Tel: 01700 502001

The Kettledrum

Recently taken over by a Hungarian family the Kettledrum offers a range of hot and cold meals including soups, ciabattas, steak/chicken pie, fish and chips and homemade sweet treats.

Tel: 01700 502342

Ettrick Bay Tea Room

Enjoy an enormous slice of cake at this delightful, famous beachfront tea room with children’s play park and beach views of Arran.

Tel: 01700 500223

Electric Bakery

Bute’s longest running bakery offers a wide range of fresh baking as well as hot & cold snacks / meals. Also has the option to sit in.

Tel: 01700 503471

The Diner

An American style diner serving full breakfast and the lunch time favourites burgers, chicken strips and macaroni cheese.

Tel: 01700 500100

Kilchattan Post Office Cafe

While adventuring round the South end of the island this delightful P.O. will offer you snacks and beverages to help you on your way. Sit in also available. Tel: 01700 831628

The Victoria Hotel & Ghillies

With a large selection of dishes to suit all palates. Enjoy fine wines and dishes created from fresh local produce and seafood.

Tel: 01700 50016

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Brunch, Lunch and Pizza/Burger nights during the Summer in a non-formal setting. With great views over the town Email: info@roselandholidaypark.co.uk
Serving traditional fish and chips with crispy, fresh batter sit in and enjoy the perfect fish tea. Also offers a wide range of gluten free options. Open Tuesday to Sunday 4.30pm until 9.00pm (autumn/ winter hours) Take Away also available.
sourced
tea
&
Serving excellent meals from locally
ingredients and a full range of
& coffee plus a selection of wines
beers. Homemade cakes are baked daily and the bistro offers a varied menu catering to all tastes. Tel: 01700 502922
You will be tempted by the variety of restaurants Bute has to offer from american style dining to cosy country pubs.

FOOD & DRINK on Bute

PUBS

TAKE AWAYS

Golfers Bar

With a great selection of beers and whiskies this bar also comes with great character, a smiley face and regular live music.

Children welcome until 8pm

Tel: 01700 502095

Macs Bar

Traditional, family-run pub with all the sport on HD, great jukebox, darts, pool table, quiz night every Monday. Real ales, teas, co ees and free wi .

Tel: 01700 502417

Galatea Bar

Galatea Bar, with spacious lounges & sun trap beer garden. Serving a wide variety of beers, wines, spirits, ciders and soft drinks.

Tel: 01700504281

The Palace Bar

If you like a bit of karaoke then this is the place to be with a huge range of song choices, you are guaranteed a fun night.

Tel: 01700 505055

The Anchor Tavern

Recently refurbished friendly community owned free house pub and hub located on the sea front in Port Bannatyne. Open all year round with live music and pub quizzes plus a wide range of non-alcoholic drinks. Dog friendly for well behaved pets!

Tel: 01700 505617

Isle of Bute Distillery

Join us in the Gin Garden for a perfectly served gin and tonic or cocktail, all made here on our beautiful island.

Tel: 07415478320

The Taverna

O ers live music every weekend, has an outdoor seating area in the summer overlooking Guildford Sq. you are guaranteed a friendly face on every visit.

Tel: 01700 502525

The Grapes Bar

A popular, friendly bar that suits all. With a wide range of drinks, a pool table and a jukebox.

Tel: 01700 503803

The Islander

Cosy traditional pub with a roaring re. O ers a great selection of wines, beers and spirits, as well as a few tasty cocktails.

Tel: 07516427318

Black Bull

Marina front facing Bar & Restaurant with friendly service, excellent food with occasional live music. Serving a variety of food and beverages for everyone. Children are allowed in the bar until 8pm so long as they are having a family meal.

Tel: 01700 503471

The Sea Dragon

Peking and Cantonese Chinese cuisine - Closed on Tuesdays

Tel: 01700 502094

Jade Garden

Asian fusion Chinese foodClosed on Mondays (also o ers dine in)

Tel: 01700 502347

Zavaroni’s Fish and Chicken Bar

Open 7 days a week

Tel: 01700 503005

Three in One

Take Away & Deliver y

Burgers, pizzas, kebabs and curries – Open 7 days a week.

Tel: 01700 500333

India Pavilion

A range of Indian dishes from Balti to Karahi - Open 7 days a week (also o ers dine in)

Tel: 01700 502094

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KINTYRE

Both battered and blessed by the ocean that surrounds it, the Kintyre peninsula is breathtaking however you choose to explore it. Whatever the pace or style of your journey, once you get Kintyre sand between your toes, you will long to return again.

With views that surpass California’s celebrated Route 66 and far less traffic, the Kintyre 66 is a new (66-mile) driving route that loops the peninsula and takes in coastal and cultural highlights, including the historic town of Campbeltown and a hop over to the isle of Gigha – it is a truly spectacular motoring experience.

Kintyre is well-suited to those travelling under their own steam, too, with plenty of scenic woodland and beach walks and the 103-mile Kintyre Way long-distance trail (much of which is accessible to bikes as well) waymarked from Tarbert to Southend and up to Machrihanish.

Most visits to Kintyre start at Tarbert, a pretty fishing port with a striking church tower. Shops and cafes surround the harbour. It’s

home to the ivy-covered ruin of Tarbert Castle, a medieval stronghold that was to become an important site for Robert the Bruce, and hosts annual seafood, music and book festivals.

Between Tarbert and Bellochantuy, the waves are so close to the road that you can almost taste the spray and it’s well worth stopping at Muasdale to do just that. If you have time to go further afield, Tayinloan is the port for the ferry to the lovely little Isle of Gigha, home to the celebrated Achamore Gardens, which are particularly lovely in late spring. The east coast of Kintyre may be its road less travelled, but there are rewards here, from castles to a ruined abbey.

Set in lush vegetation with views to the Isle of Arran, the village of Carradale remains a working fishing port. A walk on the golden beach at Carradale Bay is bound to blow away any cobwebs, whether you cover its full mile and visit the Iron Age hill fort at the eastern point.

As you draw closer to Campbeltown, the hilltop route boasts views of the islands beyond, and there are more lovely beaches, including Westport – which feels a million windswept miles away from the bustling neighbouring town.

Looking out to the Isle of Davaar and its Stevenson lighthouse, there is plenty to discover in Campbeltown – from the variety of shops and restaurants, to the redeveloped sea front, and Tartan Kirk, a local history museum named for its colourful brick patterns. There are only three distilleries left of more than 30 in the town’s heyday, but whisky still has

an important role to play – with tours and tastings on offer.

The palm trees that surprisingly dot the town centre today may be suggestive of a Caribbean resort, but if you are on a quest to find unblemished white sand dunes, head for nearby Machrihanish, a favourite water sports destination, and you can enjoy a round of golf in a splendid, world famous setting.

The remote southern tip of the Mull of Kintyre may be most famous now for its link to Paul McCartney, but this is a spot rich with older history, too, and on a clear day you can see all the way to the Antrim coast.

DIARY DATE:

Eddi Reader –40 Years Live

25th November 2022

7-11pm Tickets £25

Tarbert Village Hall, Campbeltown Road Tarbert

www.eddireader.co.uk/gigs/ Gary Meikle 2.5

21st January 2023 7pm

Town Hall, 54 Main Street, Campbeltown www.garymeikle.com/dates

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Typical picturesque scenery on the Kintyre Peninsula with views towards the island of Arran as seen from just outside of Campbeltown www.scotphoto.com Westport beach towards the islands of Islay and Jura
49 Campbeltown Motor Company, Snipefield, Drumore, Campbeltown 01586 552030 www.campbeltownmotorcompany.co.uk CAMPBELTOWN MOTOR COMPANY REASSURANCE BUILT IN Telephone: 01586 552030 VEHICLE HIRE
hire.
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Why not discover this beautiful West Coast Peninsula with one of our modern, reliable vehicles available for
We offer a free shuttle service to and from Campbeltown airport, bus and ferry terminals. Further destinations may be able to be arranged. All our vehicles are modern, safe and usually less than 1 year old. Opening Times: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 17:30
Saturday 08:00
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KINTYre hand picked

Top things to see, do and experience

Distilleries

Campbeltown is home to three whisky distilleries – Springbank, Glen Scotia and Glengyle. All offer tours and tastings, and the Kintyre Gin distillery, on Torrisdale Castle Estate, is open to visitors and has a gin school and cafe.

Skipness Castle and Kilbrannan Chapel

A short drive from Tarbert, this 11th-century castle showcases a blend of architectural styles. There’s plenty to see inside, including views across the Kilbrannan Sound to Arran.

Golf

Machrihanish Golf Club is celebrated worldwide, and no golf enthusiast will want to miss a round on this links course, which boasts sea views and the best opening hole in the country.

www.machgolf.com

Davaar Island

This tidal island is linked to the mainland at Campbeltown by a shingle causeway. It’s known for its lighthouse and caves, one of which contains a life-sized crucifixion painting.

Kintyre Way

This long-distance path takes a winding and beautiful route down the length of the Kintyre peninsula, from Tarbert to Machrihanish. You can do the whole challenge over several days, or just hop on for a stroll.

www.scotlandsgreattrails.com

Isle of Gigha

A 20-minute ferry trip from Tayinloan, this communityowned island is a popular day-trip destination where the welcome is as warm as the gulf stream that enriches its climate. Gigha’s premier attraction is the colourful Achamore Gardens.

Tarbert Festivals

The small fishing village of Tarbert is a cultural hub, hosting annual festivals including a book festival, seafood festival, music festival and the Scottish Series yachting event. www.tarbertfestivals.co.uk

Machrihanish Beach

Known for its white sands and clear water, Machrihanish’s long beach is only one of many Kintyre beaches – try Westport, Dunaverty, Bellochantuy or Muasdale if you’re searching for atmosphere and the sensation of sand between your toes.

Mull of Kintyre

Forever associated with Paul McCartney’s song, this remote headland marks the tip of the Kintyre peninsula. The effort of reaching it is repaid with dramatic views towards Ireland.

Kintyre 66

Kintyre 66 is a new 66 mile loop around one of Scotland’s most scenic regions, Kintyre. Known as Scotland’s mainland island, Kintyre is a stunning peninsula in Argyll, on the west coast of Scotland. For more information, visit www. wildaboutargyll.co.uk

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51

ISlE OF GIGHA

Those Norsemen had it right when they named this five square miles of island off the west coast of the Kintyre peninsula Gudey, meaning good or God’s island.

Perhaps there was divine intervention in placing Gigha in just the right place to create silver sand beaches, crystal clear, turquoise-coloured sea and a balmy micro climate.

Once visited never forgotten and often returned to, Gigha was a favourite of the Royal Family during summer Hebridean cruises on the Royal Yacht Britannia. The Princess Royal looked at her most

relaxed during a formal visit to open new homes here when her officials kept looking at their watches while she stayed chatting to islanders.

Then there was the occasion when one islander found their car turned into an impromptu taxi for HM Queen when she paid a surprise visit.

Island life centres around its only village in Ardminish Bay on the south eastern side of the island, facing the mainland.

The ferry docks here after its 20 minute trip from Tayinloan. The Ardminish Stores includes the Post Office and has pumps for petrol, diesel and marine red diesel. The sheltered bay is home to the island’s pontoons and moorings and it is popular anchorage.

Gigha offers a mix of the Gigha Hotel, self-catering, camping and motor home spaces plus bed and breakfast and even a yurt.

The islanders organised a community

Gigha has a lot to celebrate; new housing and an increase in island population. The island’s trust has installed three wind turbines, The Dancing Ladies, which generate enough clean energy to export.

There are miles of paths to explore on foot or by bicycle; and water sports equipment to hire to explore the coast. This little island has been inhabited since prehistoric times and has a wealth of sites to explore with cairns and an Ogham stone by its ruined 13th century Kilchattan Chapel, other standing stones and duns. It is also the ancient home of the Clan MacNeill.

The gardens of Achamore House are being returned slowly but surely to their former glory by the islanders; when Gigha was owned by the Horlick family

WORK UP AN APPETITE

All this exploring should work up an appetite and Gigha can soon take care of that.

You can dine at the Gigha Hotel and pub, the Boathouse Restaurant, the Nook seafood takeaway or grab the ingredients for your self-catering or picnic at Ardminish Stores.

An island this lush in Gulf Streamwarmed waters is bound to create something special to eat; Gigha Halibut is the award-winning island fish farm and their smoked halibut is magnificent and so are Gigha Oysters.

The Wee Island Dairy produces creamy milk in glass bottles and a range of ice cream that is irresistible. There is also plenty of Gigha tablet and shortbread for sale.

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Gigha beach with foxgloves. Photograph: Dennis Hardley www.scotphoto.com buy-out in 2002 this is their 20th anniversary year. The celebrations can be toasted with the Isle of Gigha Coastal gin special bottling from the mainland Beinn an Tuirc distillery, home of Kintyre Gin. of malted drink fame, Sir James Horlick expanded the grounds and brought in rare species of plants from around the world.
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ISlE OF ARRAN

‘miniature’ but mighty

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Cir Mhor and the Saddle, Isle of Arran

Arran is not only a fantastic island to visit it is a destination, like Oban, to use as a strategic point on your island hopping journey.

Arran’s main ferry link with the mainland is ArdossanBrodick. From Arran you can hop off to Claonaig, over the spine of the beautiful Kintyre Peninsula and visit Gigha, reach Kennacraig to sail to Islay and on to Jura and Colonsay or go north to Tarbert and catch a ferry back to Arran or across to the Cowal Peninsula and return to Arran via Bute.

For a longer island hop travel up to Oban along the A83 and A816 with its incredible coastal views and set sail for more islands from this busy port.

Lying in the Firth of Clyde Arran is more easily accessible than the Hebridean Islands and it is perfect for a day-trip but if you have time deserves more attention. Don’t be surprised if you bump into school and university field trips; the geology and history of Arran, occupied since Neolithic times, make for a fascinating place.

The climate and the rock formation which runs through the island, the Highland Boundary Fault, have given Arran the title of ‘Scotland in Miniature’. You truly can see every type of landscape Scotland can offer here, plus whisky, golf, ancient standing stones, castles, imposing cliffs, lovely beaches, lush farm land and majestic peaks. So the ‘miniature’ title rings true but you also might want to think: ‘small but mighty’.

And in keeping with this theme Arran can offer accommodation just as diverse, from luxury spa to bothies and everything in between.

The outline of Arran is just as iconic as the Skye Cullins.

Seeing so much in one small island can work up an appetite and a thirst. Arran is amazing for the number of food and drink producers it has, many have become household names and won numerous awards.

Arran Distillery produces single malts, limited editions, blends and a cream liqueur and opened its sister distillery at Lagg in the south of the island in 2019. The awards have stacked up and it is truly one of Arran’s success stories.

So too is Arran Sense of Scotland the fragrance

producers which began as Arran Aromatics.

Arran Cheese and Arran Brewery are also award winners. You can buy cheese, preserves, chutneys oatcakes and chocolates, ice cream and more, all made success stories. Some people come for the history, from Neolithic through to National Trust for Scotland-run Brodick Castle and Gardens.

When it comes to festivals there are so many to choose from; Arran Folk Festival has been running for nearly 50 years in one form or another and one of the foundations of the Scottish music scene. The Arran Festival of Food & Drink is new for 2022 being held 14th - 25th September - check out www.arransfoodjourney.com.

Being close to the towns of the Ayrshire coast and Glasgow, Arran can stage a wide number of events and festivals and be sure of good attendance.

Be it musical, creative, sporting or food and drink, you will almost certainly find an event for you as well as the traditional highland games, agricultural and horticultural shows. The listings are just so tempting you will be back for more.

Look out for the newly launched children’s book festival, Wee Mac Arran.

TRAVEL

> Frequent trains and busses from Glasgow; easy reach of Glasgow International and Prestwick Airports. Ferries from Ardrossan, Claonaig and Tarbert Loch Fyne.

POINTS OF INTEREST

> POTATOES

Do not forget the one and only Arran Banner, or to give its formal name: Solanum tuberosum L. cv. Arran Banner. A delicious potato and the name of our namesake newspaper on the island. There are several Arran varieties of potato but Banner and Pilot are the two most widely available.

> CHALLENGE

Here is our island hopping Arran challenge – have yourself a picnic on the island of products made and grown there. Easy to do and delicious.

> CAMPING

Go from glamping to wild camping with everything in between; motor homes welcome, with waste water facilities in Blackwaterfoot and Whiting Bay.

> GOAT FELL

Arran’s highest peak is a rewarding climb. Enjoy the Arran Mountain Festival or an ultra marathon if you like to quicken the pace.

> GOLF

The balmy climate and lush countryside conspire to create beautiful golf courses on Arran. This island has golf courses in the way that Islay has distilleries; there are seven and you can play them all when you buy an Arran Golf Pass.

> LOCHRANZA

The ferry terminal on the western side of the island takes you to Claonaig and Tarbert Loch Fyne.

LINKS

> www.visitarran.com

> www.taste-of-arran.co.uk

> www.arranmountainfestival.co.uk

> www.golfonarran.com

> www.auchrannie.co.uk

GOOD TO KNOW

> Arran is a good place to cycle; a 56 mile round Arran route or make it a tough figure of eight by tackling The String Road over the hills. The five ferries island hop is a favourite with cyclists starting and ending on Arran.

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The outline of Arran is just as iconic as the Skye Cullins.
Lochranza Castle and deer. Glen Sannox. Brodick Castle.
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Delightful Stories from Arran

by author Alison Page

Isle of Arran author, Alison Page started publishing picture books about her beloved West Highland Terrier in 2018.

With a strong Scottish theme, these delightful stories feature the adorable Corrie, named after the village on Arran.

The island’s Community Volunteer for the Scottish based charity, “Mary’s Meals”, Alison decided that profits from the “Corrie’s Capers” series would help feed hungry children. To date, an amazing £13,500 has been donated.

Working in 20 of the world’s poorest countries, Mary’s Meals mission is simple; to reach the next starving child, giving them hope for the future.

School + Food = Hope

Sadly, Corrie crossed over the rainbow bridge during lockdown, however, this precious wee Westie lives on through

Alison’s stories. Her latest “Corrie’s Library Capers“ was launched in July this year.

Books may be purchased via the website shop or can be found in lots of lovely shops across Scotland. Find out more at www.westie.scot

The Westie Fest

Corrie competes for Scotland in a Westie Highland Games

The Tattoo Toorie

Corrie has a special duty to perform at the Edinburgh Festival but is scared

Corrie’s Curling Capers

Corrie is invited to open a bonspiel but she’s never curled before Corrie’s Library Capers

Things take an unexpected turn when Corrie lends a paw with the mobile library.

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ISlAY AND JURA

Islay has long been known as the Queen of the Hebrides, but with so much to offer, a debate remains over which is the most precious of her crown jewels.

Is it the ocean, sparkling sapphire blue? The marble-white sandy beaches? Rare wildlife? Or perhaps most valuable of all, the peat which is a vital component in production of the single malt whiskies for which Islay is known worldwide.

For a little island, there is a lot going on. Islay boasts a collection of working distilleries which offer tours and often tastes of their flagship products. While whisky remains the biggest draw, Islay’s reputation for gin, seasoned with hand-foraged local botanicals, is growing fast.

Islay’s distillery trail can also be an incidental tour of its scenic and cultural assets – from the pretty white-washed towns of Port Ellen and Bowmore, to Caol Ila distillery, which boasts views across to Jura, and the sandy Machir Bay, near Kilchoman distillery.

There is as much variety to Islay’s wildlife as to its malts. It boasts otters, eagles and over 250 other bird species, including the rare blackbird-like chough, and it is an

important wintering ground for barnacle and white-fronted geese. You will encounter them wherever you go and you can learn more by visiting the Loch Gruinart reserve.

A trip from Port Ellen to the Oa, the island’s southerly tip, is a chance to experience the wild grandeur of the landscape, including the intriguing square Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the atmospheric American Monument, erected in memory of the soldiers on board two American ships which were wrecked in 1918 on the hazardous stretch of coast the site overlooks.

A highlight for history-lovers is Finlaggan, on a secluded loch in the north-east of Islay – once the seat of the Lord of the Isles. It’s hard to envisage on a windswept visit to this remote spot today, but its position at the heart of the Hebrides made it a perfect base for 13th-century leaders who ruled and conquered by sea. For more encounters with the past, look out forts, duns and standing stones around the island, or head to the Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte.

Bowmore, the island’s biggest settlement, has a range of shops, hotels and cafes, boasting the fantastic views so many of Islay’s enterprises have in common. Along with Port Ellen, Islay’s chief port, it makes a good base for a break, and you’ll find the local hotels and bars stocked with an excellent range of local whiskies – what better way to warm up after a day out exploring?

For nature lovers, there are some fantastic opportunities to spot wildlife among the flora and fauna with local experts. Take a guided walk at Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve or a enjoy a spot of bird watching with the RSPB’s guided walks on The Oa from April 1 to October 31.

Nearby Jura is well known for its connection to George Orwell, who sought solitude there to write his novel 1984. The island is named from the Norse for ‘deer island’, and you are as likely to encounter a stag there as another person.

The famous novelist wasn’t the island’s only source of stories – local folk tales centre on the Corryvreckan whirlpool, the world’s third largest, also known as Scot-

land’s Maelstrom. If you are feeling bold, you can view this swirling mass of water up close on a boat trip from Port Askaig. Sat between Jura and Islay are two smaller islands, Colonsay and its sibling Oronsay. Take time to reflect in the woodland garden at Colonsay House or the ancient priory on Oronsay.

DIARY DATE:

Jura Music Festival 23-25 September

Get the wellies on and get ready to jump into 3 days of fantastic music and a brilliant atmosphere. http://www.juramusicfestival.com/

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Coastline at Mull of Oa, Islay Gigha ferry crossing at Tayinloan, with Paps of Jura in view www.scotphoto.com
60 WHISKY IN YOUR POCKET WHISKY IN YOUR POCKET DOWNLOAD THE NEWEST VERSION NOW AND START EXPLORING
61 4 accommodation with a touch of luxury www.portcharlotteholidays.com Port Charlotte Holidays Self catering apartments & cottages c 07979 023 021 f Welcome to your Islay holiday home! From couples to groups of 8

ISlaY & JUra hand picked

Top things to see, do and experience

Distilleries

There are currently nine working distilleries on Islay. The first recorded distillery was Bowmore, founded in 1779; the most recent was Ardnahoe, which was established in 2018. There is something magical about Islay’s distilleries – will you have time to visit them all?

Finlaggan

What was once the stronghold of the Lords of the Isles, is now an atmospheric ruin on an islet in a shallow loch near Port Askaig. The Visitor Centre explains more. www.finlaggan.org

Beaches

Islay boasts some of the most beautiful beaches to be found anywhere in the world. Go on a beach hunt or find your way to the Singing Sands and Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, starting from Port Ellen (ask a local for directions!).

JURA

A short hop by ferry from Port Askaig on Islay, Jura is one of the UK’s wildest destinations, famed for red deer and links to the writer George Orwell, who wrote 1984 here. Jura is a do-able day trip from Islay, though wildlife-lovers and walkers will want longer.

Museum of Islay Life

Housed in the former Free Church in Port Charlotte, the museum records Islay life, from pre-historic to recent times. Exhibits include an illicit still and a large photographic archive. islaymuseum.org

The American Monument

Built on high cliffs on the Oa Peninsula, the American monument commemorates the loss of two troop ships, The Tuscania and the Otranto, in separate incidents on Islay’s treacherous coastline, in 1918.

Mactaggart Leisure Centre

Situated within the heart of Bowmore village, this community owned and award-winning facility comprises of a 25-metre swimming pool, gym, sauna, swim shop, launderette, hair salon and multipurpose activity room. www.mactaggartleisurecentre.co.uk

Loch Gruinart Nature

Greenland barnacle and Greenland white-fronted geese descend here in tens of thousands each autumn. You can also encounter corncrake, hen harriers, otters, and much more.

Pretty Port Ellen is an island hub and home to a hotel, restaurants and a handful of shops. Stop for a scenic lunch and a stroll on the shore, or explore nearby archaeological sites, such as the Kilbride standing stones. Bowmore, on the east, is the island’s other main settlement.

Dunyvaig Castle

Dunyvaig Castle ruins on the shore of Lagavulin Bay, once a naval base of the Lord of the Isles, chiefs of Clan Donald. If you’re doing a tour at Lagavulin, go around the corner and head to the castle when you’re finished. Great views of the distillery and Lagavulin bay.

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COlONSAY

The Isle of Colonsay, and its smaller island neighbour Oransay, are some of the remotest inhabited islands in the Inner Hebrides. Spectacularly located some 20 miles from the mainland, between Islay and Mull, these low-lying islands are easily reached by ferry from Oban or, for the perfect Hebridean day-trip, in around an hour by a twice-weekly ferry round-trip from Port Askaig on Islay.

Although they measure just 10 miles by two miles, Colonsay and Oransay offer a surprising variety of things to do, especially for outdoors and wildlife enthusiasts. The islands boast a fascinating history and heritage, and a richly diverse array of flora and fauna (Colonsay is believed to have the richest flora of all the islands, with more than 500 species recorded), as well as an interesting geological timeline.

The islands’ diversity is celebrated in a number of festivals throughout the year – from the celebrated book festival at the end of April, through a fantastic celebration of nature in its renowned spring festival, to a lively traditional music festival in September and a delicious autumnal food and drink festival in October.

The islands are low-lying with a spectacular coastline and a rolling interior that rises to no more than 145m – which make them perfect for walking or cycling (bring your bike on the CalMac ferry free of charge, or you can hire on the island).

The many beaches offer a chance to stroll beautiful, flat sands and explore sand dunes and machair. The islands are also home to the MacPhies (hills with a summit of at least 300ft /91m). There are 21 on Colonsay and another one on Oransay, and like Munro-bagging on the mainland, MacPhie-bagging becomes a passion for many visitors.

Explore more at visitcolonsay.co.uk

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View out to sea at Colonsay

COll AND TIREE

Coll is breathtaking all year round and spring is the perfect time to combine long days exploring the many stunning beaches with dining out on local produce and enjoying a night under the Milky Way. Coll is an International Dark Sky Community.

Arinagour, with its white-washed cottages, is just like a scene from Katie Morag. Renowned for its welcome and its slower pace, it’s not difficult to while away the hours

in Coll’s only village. Spring brings events such as Coll Bird Festival, Coll & the Cosmos, and concerts –see local notice boards for information.

Beyond the village lie Coll’s many beaches and a diversity of flora and wildlife unexpected for such a small gem. Visit RSPB Coll for a great chance of seeing the rare corncrake.

You can explore Coll by foot or on bike (hire available), or why not book a tour by land or sea?

The Isle of Tiree is the most westerly island of the Inner Hebrides. It is fertile, relatively small – about 12 miles long and three miles wide –and very flat, and has been described variously as ‘the Hawaii of the north’ and ‘the land below the waves’.

The island has a mild climate, with some of the highest levels of sunshine in the UK. It benefits from the moderating influence of the Gulf Stream.

With an abundance of wildlife, vast starry skies, an unspoiled landscape and the some of the world’s best conditions for water sports, Tiree really is a vivid frontier of Land, Sea and Sky.

www.visitcoll.com www.isleoftiree.com

Coll wonderland

Alongside its more famous Hebridean cousins, the Isle of Coll is an unspoilt and relatively unknown wonderland. Here, when the wind drops, there is a quiet stillness in which to enjoy nature’s plenty.

And there is plenty of nature to enjoy! We share the island with some of Scotland’s rarest birds; we inhale the glory of the flowers of the machair; we walk for hours in the (sometimes literally) breath-taking moorland expanses; and we gaze out to sea from a shoreline of rugged rocks and pristine beaches. A place of unequalled intimacy, history and delight. Our quietly meandering roads offer walkers and cyclists the perfect means

of exploring the island in safety and (if you hire one of the e-bikes available) in veritable luxury. Dark skies in the autumn and winter can often enable you to experience the cosmos in all its glory, unhampered by street lights and urban glow.

Couple to all this the generous spirit of the island community, as demonstrated in the welcome at the An Cridhe community centre and the various island businesses, and you may have just found the perfect Hebridean getaway.

Coll - the best place you’ve never visited.

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Caolas, Isle of Tiree
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An Ocean of Experience

Tiree Sea Tours

The hours will fly by on an adventure with Tiree Sea Tours, but a day spent on board and ashore, exploring the highlights of the Hebrides, will make memories that last a lifetime.

Based at Scarinish Harbour on the pretty island of Tiree, the company takes its guests on exhilarating tours of the Treshnish Isles, including to the seabird haven of Lunga – step ashore in springtime for a close encounter with the endearing Atlantic puffins – and to nearby Staffa, home to the geological marvel that is Fingal's Cave.

While tours have a variety of themes and destinations, you'll enjoy a warm welcome and the expertise of local skippers whichever option you choose. Wildlife sightings can include minke and sperm whales and pods of dolphins, as well as gannets, guillemots and even basking sharks.

Also on offer are trips to Skerryvore, Scotland's tallest lighthouse and one of the Stevensons' most impressive engineering feats, and dedicated shark-fishing and whale-watching outings. Departures from the Isle of Coll can be arranged. For a private or small-group experience, do get in touch to enquire about the charter service.

The safety of passengers is a priority and all tours adhere to current Coronavirus guidelines. The boats and equipment, including life jackets, are sanitised after each trip, and track and trace is in place – leaving you free to relax, soak up the scenery, and experience isolation of the best kind. There is also an online gift shop for some stylish Tiree Sea Tours apparel! A little island, delivered direct to your door!

Tiree Sea Tours was crowned Scotland’s sea tour operator of the year 2021-22 by the Prestige Awards, organised by Corporate Livewire. The awards celebrate businesses and individuals which consistently offer ‘excellent products and services to local residents, expats and visitors’. So step aboard, savour the sea spray and remember...happiness is only a puffin away.

Toraz Car Hire

The Isle of Tiree is one of the Hebrides most enchanting havens, and with car hire from Toraz available at the airport, it is now easier to explore than ever before – you can leave Glasgow at breakfast time, and be on the beach watching the waves in time for your mid-morning coffee.

With a service that includes everything from small and family-sized cars, to vans and luxury Range Rovers, with deals tailored to the length of your stay, Toraz has a vehicle to suit every purpose and budget. Pick-ups from the ferry terminal and the Isle of Coll are also an option.

It's easy to view the choices and make a booking on Toraz's user-friendly website. Once you arrive it will only take moments to pick up your car (you'll need a driver's licence and two forms of ID) leaving you free to make the most of your time on the island.

Whether your plan is to enjoy a spot of windsurfing at Ballevullin, a stroll on sandy Crossapol beach, or a cuppa and cake at one of the island's scenic cafes, with your car hire from Toraz sorted, you can focus on where you want to be, not how you're going to get there.

Tel: 07788 810623
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coll & TIree hand picked Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Dark Skies Coll

Designated a dark sky island, the stars do feel closer on the light-pollution-free Isle of Coll. Stargazing on any clear night, or join a stargazing break or events offer the opportunity to learn and see even more. visitcoll.co.uk/dark_sky/

Windsurfing

Home of the Tiree Wave Classic, one of the world’s premier windsurfing competitions, Tiree’s windy, sunny climate makes it ideal for this sport. Watch the experts, or take to the water for a lesson yourself.

Basking Sharks and Corncrakes

The waters around Coll and Tiree are a hotspot for the gigantic, but harmless basking shark, especially in summer. Corncrakes, endangered across Europe, thrive among the islands’ iris beds.

Beaches

A string of sandy beaches encircles each of these islands, with Red Rocks and Crossapol highlights on Coll, and Gott Bay and Balephuil among the gems on Tiree. Let that invigorating sea breeze blow away your cares.

Coll half marathon 2023

Visit www.collhalfmarathon.org.uk for the August 2023 date. A fun day out for all the family! The Coll Half Marathon has become an important annual event on the Isle of Coll, with most of the locals involved in running this very popular day, organised on an entirely voluntary basis. Many runners return each year, not just to challenge themselves as they enjoy the stunning views on this beautiful island, but also to have a fabulous Coll weekend. Take part or just take in the atmosphere! www.collhalfmarathon.org.uk

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MUll & IONA

Travel to Mull by ferry from Oban, and you feel that you are crossing to another world, passing enchanted caves, fairytale castles and looming lighthouses. You might even have an encounter with a sea monster (basking sharks may be harmless, but they still make an impression).

The wonderful wildlife of Scotland is at its richest and most diverse on the Isle of Mull, and in the waters around it. This is the place where a playful otter could cross your path at any moment, a majestic red deer stag will observe you from his mountain vantage point and golden and white-tailed eagles plummet from the skies before your disbelieving eyes.

Out to sea, you can find guillemots, gannets and puffins above the water, especially around Staffa and the Treshnish Isles, while within it swim minke and killer whales, black baleen, harbour porpoises and Risso’s dolphins.

Mull’s main port, Craignure, is a short ferry crossing from Oban, close to two imposing castles, the Victorian mansion of Torosay, and Duart Castle, which guards the Sound of Mull.

The colourfully-painted northern capital, Tobermory, was the setting for children’s television programme Balamory and has plenty for the more mature visitor too, including the An Tobar Arts Centre which hosts events in a former Victorian primary school, and a

distillery, museum and gallery, as well as inviting cafes, pubs restaurants and shops.

The Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust is a conservation and education charity with its base in the town centre, and the aquarium, at Ledaig, is Europe’s first to operate a policy of catch and release.

Mull is an island of geological extremes, from the black volcanic rock of the Burg peninsula, to the sandy Calgary beach and the fertile farmland of Glen Forsa, and it is wonderful walking territory, whether you choose to take a short stroll or an ambitious hike across the island.

For a geological wonder to take your breath away, take a boat trip to the Isle of Staffa, an island created from hexagonal pillars of basalt, dotted with caves and covered with puffins – the sight of which more than justifies the myths that surround it.

The Highland Clearances of the 19th century had a huge impact on Mull, where many crofters were forced to flee their homes after landowners realised their ground could be used more profitably for grazing sheep. Evidence of the evictions is still visible in the ruins of hastily abandoned townships such as Kildavie and Shiaba.

There are legends about land giants on Mull, but it is famed as a place to fall under the shadow of a giant of the skies. Thanks to a careful conservation programme, several pairs of rare white-tailed or sea eagles, Britain’s largest and most impressive bird of prey, nest and fish around the island, and golden eagles occupy the high ridges where they feast on mountain hare.

Big name mammals to look out for include red deer, fallow deer, and even wild goats, and be sure to keep an eye out during walks on the beach for the distinctive shapes of both grey and common seals basking on the rocks or bobbing up and down just off shore.

IONA

From Fionnphort at Mull’s southern tip, look across the sound to see St Margaret’s Abbey on the sacred island of Iona, accessible by pedestrian ferry.

Regardless of their faith, visitors to Iona are sure to be touched by this special little island. Once an important Christian community, it was the home of the Irish Saint Columba and the hub from which he established the Christian faith in Scotland.

Iona retains its spiritual atmosphere, and is still a place of pilgrimage today. As well as the abbey, now in the care of Historic Scotland, there are the ruins of earlier monastic settlements and a graveyard, believed to be the last resting place for the ancient Scottish kings, with the chapel of St Oran at its centre. e former Labour party leader, John Smith, once a regular visitor, is buried in St Oran’s cemetery.

A heritage centre on the island reveals more about its past, and a walk beyond the abbey grounds gives a sense of what might have attracted a saint in the rst place – the views of Mull’s dramatic coastline and surrounding islands are truly inspiring, whether they follow a 300 climb up Dun I, or a gentler stroll the creamy beaches of the north shore.

DIARY

DATE:

Tour of Mull Rally 14-16 October 2022

Very popular car rally attracting top competitors from all over the UK. Two nights and one day of spectacular high speed motoring on the gruelling island roads.

https://mullrally.org

Tobermory Book Festival 28-30 October 2022

An Tobar Arts Centre, Argyll Terrace, Tobermory Description - The Tobermory Book Festival is perfect for people with a passion for books, great food and the Scottish Islands.

https://westoversea.co.uk/

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Autumn view of Duart Castle from Mull. Photograph: Dennis Hardley www.scotphoto.com Iona Abbey, cottages and a fishing boat on a sunny day in Autumn
74 Receive Service Updates Track Your Bus Live Buy Discounted Tickets Plan Journeys Gift A Ticket Download the West Coast Motors App Available from the App Store or Google Play for your mobile phone.

MUll & IoNa hand picked

Top things to see, do and experience

Tobermory

Mull’s main town is the starting point for sea trips, speciality shopping, award-winning eateries, coastal walks and indoor attractions, including arts, museums and wildlife centres.

The South East Coast

Take this route if you love castles, golf and stone circles. If you are searching for golden or whitetailed eagles, look to the skyline, or take a tour with an expert.

Offshore Islands

From Mull, take an exhilarating sea tour to the offshore islands of Lunga and Staffa where you can encounter puffins and other sea birds, and the astonishing Fingal’s Cave.

The North West Coast

Head this way for an art trail, whale trail, public gardens and dramatic coastlines.

Isle of Ulva

Lachlan Macquarie, described as ‘the Father of Australia’ due to his work as Governor of New South Wales, was born on Ulva in 1761. The island is also known for its miles of scenic waymarked walks.

Iona

This tiny island (accessible via foot passenger ferry from Fionnphort) is known as the cradle of christianity. It is home to a 13th- century abbey, Scotland’s best preserved nunnery, amazing beaches and a real sense of tranquillity. www.welcometoiona.com

Ben More and Burg

The destination for mountain walking and those seeking wilderness. Ben More is Mull’s only Munro, and the peak provides a fantastic viewpoint for the surrounding islands.

Wildlife and Adventure Tours

Specialist guides will help you to explore Mull and Iona’s great outdoors, and ensure that you find the best places for close encounters with the abundant wildlife. www.visitmullandiona.co.uk/guides

The Ross of Mull

A haven for geologists and historians, this is where you’ll find red granite coastlines, evocative cleared townships, shell-sand beaches, arts and crafts and boat trips from Fionnphort.

The Quest

Take this challenge, for a fun family trail across Mull & Iona. Solve the clues and discover more about our magical islands: www. mullandionaquest.co.uk

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TASTING NOTES
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78 Outdoor Capital of the UK Search Plan your adventure W h e r e w i l l y o u r journey take you? Scan Me independent cinema and café bar, serving pizzas, sharing platters, hotdogs, treats and more, plus local beers, spirits, cocktails and All the latest films! Open daily from 10am. the perfect destination come rain or shine! 50 BEST CINEMAS IN THE UK www.highlandcinema.co.uk
Highland Cinema, fort william’s newest attraction

THE OUTDOOR CApITAl OF THE UK AWAITS YOU

www.outdoorcapital.co.uk

Lochaber is full of stunning landscapes and beautiful waterways that are ready for you to explore this autumn. Whether you want to find a trail for walking or biking, or to explore the open water, you’ve found the right place. This vast, diverse location nestled in the Scottish Highlands offers you a range of activities and a chance of adventure. Stretching from the Great Glen to the most westerly point on the British mainland within the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.

Let the season rouse your senses as you witness the awakening of the landscapes and waterways, trails, canals and lochs from changing colours to emerging wildlife.

The Outdoor Capital of the UK presents a range of activities for you to enjoy during your stay:

Tour and bike the Great Glen with Caledonian Discovery. Come aboard one of their barge holidays along the Caledonian Canal or perhaps spend an afternoon relaxing and taking in the views with

Loch Shiel Cruises, based in beautiful Glenfinnan.

If you’re seeking a water-based adventure then Rugged Paddleboarding can offer you iconic views of Glencoe as you stand on water.

Explore more open water with River to Sea Scotland and encounter sealife and stunning beaches from your canoe or kayak, taking in the views from Arisaig to The Small Isles.

If you’re after an adrenaline fix, then Active Highs and Vertical Descents provide plenty of action and adventure on canyoning days, sea kayaking and white water rafting experiences. Can you complete the high-altitude climbing challenge of Kinlochleven’s Via Ferrata?

Even the wet days here have an upside as ‘today’s rain is tomorrow’s whisky’. Make your way to Fort William and enjoy a warm welcome at Ben Nevis Distillery or head to the Ardnamurchan Peninsula to tour Nc’nean Distillery.

With plenty of indoor options, too, you can scale heights at 3 Wise Monkeys climbing wall and relax in the comfort of The Highland Cinema, offering you the latest releases and yummy food.

The Outdoor Capital of the UK is open for your unique Lochaber experience –plan your adventure at outdoorcapital. co.uk and connect with us on social media @outdoorcapitaluk. We can’t wait to meet you!

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Brodie Hood Photography.

lochaber hand picked Top TEN things to see, do and experience

The Nevis Range

Nevis Range in Fort William is home to the UK’s only mountain gondola, transporting you to 650m on the mountain of Aonach Mòr, and is an adventure playground situated just outside Fort William with ample parking, café facilities, walks, biking trails, snowsports, and much more. www.nevisrange.co.uk

Glen Nevis and Ben Nevis

Britain’s highest mountain attracts around 100,000 visitors a year, from mountaineers to novice walkers. Set in the lovely Glen Nevis, its surroundings are worth exploring too – do prepare carefully and get advice if you’re planning a challenging walk. www.outdoorcapital.co.uk/ben-nevis/

West Highland Way

This 96-mile long-distance walk starts in Milngavie and takes hikers along Loch Lomond and through Glencoe, finishing in Fort William. It takes several days, but you can hop on to sections of footpath for shorter walks too. westhighlandway.org

Glencoe

There’s drama aplenty in Glencoe, whether you’re talking history, wildlife or staggering views. Stop for refreshment in the picturesque Glencoe village, learn about the glen’s history at the NTS Glencoe Visitor Centre, or rush down the snowy corries at Glencoe Mountain Resort. www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/glencoe

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Pixel Spirits Daily Distilling Experiences Afternoon experience including recipe development, distilling, bottling and labelling

lochaber picked experience

Commando Memorial

Dedicated to the men of the original Second World War British Commando Forces, this Spean Bridge monument offers views of Ben Nevis and Aonach Mòr and a chance to reflect on the impact of the conflict here. www.outdoorcapital.co.uk

Fort William

Fort William’s cobbled town centre reflects its role as a hub for outdoor sports, with plenty of shops selling gear for your mountain adventure. It has been revitalised recently with the addition of new eateries and independent shops such as the Highland Bookshop.

West Highland Museum

Housed in the former British Linen Bank on Fort William’s Cameron Square, this long-standing museum tells the story of the region and its people – including a collection on the Jacobites. www.westhighlandmuseum.org.uk

Mallaig

Visit the fishing village of Mallaig at the end of the A830 travelling from Fort William and ride the ferry from Mallaig to Inverie during a quick, 30- 45-minute cruise with Western Isles Cruises. www.westernislescruises.co.uk

Highland Cinema

Relax in the state-of-the-art facilities on Lochaber’s new independent cinema based in Cameron Square, Fort William and catch the latest releases, tasty treats and drinks from their café bar. www.highlandcinema.co.uk

www.outdoorcapital.co.uk

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EXPERTS

In pursuit of

LASTING ADVENTURE

We’re here to help you make the right choice, so you can keep on exploring the places you love, this season and beyond. Buy right, buy better and buy to last with our expert advice, unrivalled services and the best brands looking to make a difference. Because for us, lasting adventure means just that.

Discover the best brands and service including expert fitting with free gait analysis in-store. Let’s run together.

Make the right choice with our experts.

Find your local Cotswold Outdoor and Runners Need store at: High St, Fort William PH33 6AD

Cheryl and Conor IN-STORE
84 Autumn & Winter Cruises From Fort William Come join us aboard MV Elsie for an unforgettable cruise around Loch Linnhe where we visit : The Caledonian Canal Traditional Black Houses Salmon and Mussel Farms Ancient Forests Seal Island Ben Nevis
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WEST HIGHlAND pENINSUlAS

West Highland Peninsulas are the areas of Sunart, Morven, Moidart, Ardgour and Ardnamurchan

– this is where Lochaber meets the Atlantic. Stunning coastline, crystal clear waters, pristine beaches, hills, lochs, rich woodland, extraordinary wildlife and vast dark skies –changing with the seasons, it’s all here for you to explore and enjoy.

Autumn colours are a calming feast for the eyes as you meander through ancient woodlands and public gardens. The area offers you a chance to see amazing wildlife – birds and otters will stay around as they take care of their young, so they will be easier to spot.

With 230 miles of contrasting coastline, you will never be further than stone’s throw away from a one of our pristine beaches where you can go for a daytime stroll or just sit and take in that breath-taking sunrise or that perfect sunset. Find your own perfect beach for rock-pooling, swimming, canoeing, bird watching and photography. With beautiful sea lochs and stunning freshwater lochs we provide visitors with opportunities to do a whole host of things either on, in or by the water. Exploring the coastline by sea kayak or open canoe brings a new perspective.

• Open waters swimmers will be in heaven every day.

• Scuba dive our historical wrecks and protected reefs.

• Wildlife watches can explore two Marine Protected Areas.

• Families and beach lovers will find space to unwind and escape.

We have one of the best dark skies in the country. Early spring will offer some night sky viewing with over 7,000 stars and planets visible with the naked eye. You’ll see our own galaxy, The Milky Way, stretching across the sky. This is a privilege that so few people in our country have, so why not come here and let us share it with you.

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Autumn at Lochan nan Gabhar in Glen Gour, Ardgour Loch Sunart Beautiful Sanna Bay, Ardnamurchan Photograph: Dennis Hardley www.scotphoto.com

arDNaMUrchaN

hand picked Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Sanna Bay

The perfect spot for a picnic, this large beach is one of Ardnamurchan’s favourite destinations, with ice-blue water and, especially in spring, surrounding sand dunes bursting with colourful flora.

Wildlife

Ardnamurchan is home to flagship species from eagles and ospreys to pine martens, red squirrel and red deer, plus tiny delights such as orchids and rare butterflies. Book a tour with an expert, learn more at the Ardnamurchan Natural History Visitor Centre, or just head out and keep your eyes peeled.

Ardnamurchan

Point & Lighthouse

The windswept, isolated tip of the Ardnamurchan peninsula boasts dramatic

views and an imposing lighthouse. Mainland Great Britain’s most westerly point is the outcrop of Corrachadh Mòr – just south of here.

Ardnamurchan Distillery

One of Scotland’s newest distilleries, Ardnamurchan is beautifully located on the shores of Loch Sunart and is in the process of producing both peated and unpeated whiskys. Open for tours.

Camas nan Geall

Home to a neolithic cairn, bronze age standing stones and historic cemetery, Camas nan Geall, on the south of the peninsula is worth visiting for the views of Loch Sunart and curved sandy beach.

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THE ROAD TO THE ISlES

www.roadtotheisles.com

The West Highland route from Fort William to Mallaig and onwards to the Small Isles, Skye, Knoydart and Uist is known as the ‘Road to the Isles’. This world-renowned journey, described as the most scenic in the world, is also a must-stay holiday destination in 2022 as we celebrate Scotland’s Year of Stories.

You’ll enjoy dramatic landscapes, breath-taking beaches, and a real sense of place. As well as the world-famous rail journey and the historic attractions, the area boasts outstanding beaches, rugged hills and heather moors. You’ll find accommodation to suit all travellers and award-winning restaurants specialising in seafood and game.

Nature and the landscape influences much of what happens here. Watch the local fishermen land their daily catch at Mallaig’s bustling pier, sea kayak from Arisaig, take guided walks on Knoydart and wildlife cruises from Glenfinnan, Mallaig and Arisaig.

Your stay in the area will be enriched by visiting the Small Isles, a stunning archipelago of steeped in history and filled with wildlife.

Each season here is joyous in its own way, but spring is exceptionally beautiful. Wildflowers, vibrant sunsets, and the arrival of wildlife give the season a distinctive feel, and the pace of life is slower and more peaceful. Engage all your senses by strolling the incredible beaches, tasting the salty sea spray, listening to the seabirds overhead and watching the rush of the tide.

A visit to the Road to the Isles promises to leave you with a full heart and a yearning to return.

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Looking towards Glenfinnan monument
www.scotphoto.com
Yachts anchored in Arisaig with Islands of Eigg and Rum in the distance

www.roadtotheisles.com

roaD To The ISleS Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Harry Potter Viaduct

The West Highland Line is one of the world’s most popular railway journeys and crosses the 21-span Glenfinnan Viaduct, which features in the Harry Potter films. Experience it from a steam train, or take the Scotrail service from Fort William.

Beaches

Explore some of Scotland’s most incredible beaches. Stroll the beautiful white sands and crystal-clear waters of Traigh, Camusdarach and the Silver Sands of Morar.

Glenfinnan Monument

A statue of a lone Highlander high above Loch Shiel is a reminder of the loss of life in the Jacobite risings, and the fact that Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his standard here to start the 1745 campaign. A tour of the adjacent visitor centre gives fuller understanding of the site’s significance.

Mallaig

A working fishing village that connects the mainland to the islands beyond, Mallaig was once the busiest herring port in Europe and is still renowned for its smoked kippers and seafood. Enjoy the views on the Mallaig Circuit walk, a wildlife cruise or select some lovely handmade gifts and souvenirs to take home. Mallaig also has some great places to experience the finest local produce whilst taking in the spectacular vista.

Arisaig

The perfect choice for those wishing to explore the great outdoors. Wilderness walks, spectacular beaches, golf course, Kayak centre, visitor centre/museum, beautiful gardens, marina, restaurants, cafés and local pub/hotel, where you can often enjoy live traditional folk music from the world’s finest musicians.

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THE GREAT GlEN

From the thriving, bustling city of Inverness, capital of the Highlands, and sitting between the northern end of the Caledonian Canal and the Moray Firth to the southern tip of Loch Ness and historic Fort Augustus, this route carries you on a journey of mystery and monsters through waterways and glens that have been used as transport routes for thousands of years.

Fort Augustus, renamed after King George II’s younger son, Prince William Augustus, and fortified after the 1715 Jacobite rising, Cille Chumein, to give it its original Gaelic name, so called after St Cummin who built the first church there, is famous today for its historic Benedictine abbey, built in 1876, somewhat ironically on part of site of the army fort.

It is also an important link in the Caledonian Canal, with the north/south and east to west waterway going through the middle of the village. North and west from Fort Augustus takes you on the popular route along the west shores of Loch Ness past the stunning battlements of Castle Urquhart from where you can scan the deep loch waters for signs of Nessie, the loch’s world-famous monster. If you don’t spot her, pop into the Monster Centre two miles further north at Drumnadrochit, where you can learn of the mystery that lurks beneath the waves.

To the north lies Inverness,which has everything you would expect of a busy modern city, while west of Drumnadrochit is beautiful Glen Urquhart and on into the tranquil straths and glens of Strathglass and Glen Affric.

Geologists will tell you that the Great Glen divides the North of Scotland along a line from Fort William to Inverness and that the fault is a very old feature and has been active since Mid Devonian times (c.400 million years ago).

The thousands of tourists who flock here each year will tell you it’s fantastic: the scenery, the wildlife, the outdoor activities, the sailing through the Caledonian Canal.

The Great Glen footpath is 73 miles between Fort William and Inverness, and it’s a walk through Scottish history, a magnificent slice of Scottish landscape and some very interesting geology.

Loch Ness is the largest of three lochs located in the Great Glen. The present day Loch Ness is about 10,000 years old and dates from the end of the last Ice Age, which lasted more than 20,000 years.

Old enough to be home to creatures that should have died out a long time ago, you might think.

Keep your eyes peeled and the camera at the ready.

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River Lochy Loch Linnhe, Ben Nevis and Fort William

ISlE OF SKYE

Set foot on the mystical Isle of Skye and you will appreciate just how appropriate this island’s name is. Taken from the old Norse Sky-a, which means ‘cloud island’, it is a place where the heavens feel close enough to touch –never more so than near jagged Cuillin ridge, a spectacle that so often rises from the land shrouded in mist.

As well as busy centres such as Portree and Broadford, the island boasts museums and visitor attractions alongside historic village inns, sea view bed and breakfasts and celebrated restaurants which specialise in locally-sourced game and seafood.

Skye’s castles are among its most imposing attractions. Dunvegan Castle – the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland –has been the ancestral home of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for 800 years. Armadale Castle is the centrepiece of the Clan Donald estate, which also includes gardens and a museum, and if you are seeking atmosphere, head for

the ruin of Knock Castle, on the east coast of Sleat.

Human history, however, is just a recent phase in Skye’s story. Here, as well as following in the footsteps of ancestors, you can actually walk in the footprints of dinosaurs (sauropods) at Brother’s Point in the north west, or look for ammonite and belemnite fossils at Elgol or Bearreraig Bay. Discover more about remarkable finds on this Dinosaur Isle at Staffin Dinosaur Museum in Trotternish.

Skye’s main town is the fishing port of Portree, with a wide selection of shops, galleries and eateries, and distinctive craft and gift shops. The ferry port villages of Uig and Armadale share a scenic appeal and are both also home to a handful of artisan businesses.

From jewellery to beer, and soap to ceramics, the landscape is the foundation of many of Skye’s most distinctive products. It is home to a diverse community of artists, artisans and entrepreneurs, who take inspiration from local culture and their unique environment.

Skye’s first village, Kyleakin, is home to the Bright Water Centre, where naturalist and writer Gavin Maxwell is remembered. You can learn about Maxwell’s otters and book a tour to the wildlife haven of Eilean Ban, below the Skye bridge. At Kilmuir, you can visit the Skye Museum of Island Life, a township of preserved thatched cottages illuminating 19th-century life in the Hebrides. Colbost Croft Museum, at Dunvegan, also offers insight into a traditional way of life.

Skye may be thriving, but it still has wilder-

ness, and if you don’t feel in holiday mode unless you’re out of breath, soaked through or covered in mud, you will find adventures aplenty to choose from. From hiking in the mountains to kayaking the coast, or climbing, coasteering and mountain-biking, this is a setting where memories are made, with local experts on hand to guide, train and provide resources and back-up.

However you explore, Skye’s most profound rewards come from close encounters with the seascapes and landscapes, from the beach at little Talisker Bay – which shares its name with the island-produced Talisker whisky, to the Fairy Pools at the foot of the Black Cuillins near Glenbrittle.

The Red and Black Cuillin Ranges, and Trotternish Ridge (guarded by the impos-

DIARY DATE:

Charity Garden Opening –5 Knott

1st- 30th September Times vary

5 Knott, Clachamish, Portree, Isle of Skye, IV51 9NZ Children Free, Adult - £4

An informal, organic garden on a gently sloping half acre site.

https://scotlandsgardens.org/5-knott/

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Dunvegan Castle, Isle of Skye. ing rock tower of the Old Man of Stoor) are formidable mountains however you choose to encounter them, but even their stature is not enough to put off the wildlife, from red deer to sea eagles, that you may spot on their formidable slopes. Sunrise over Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye

SKYe hand picked Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Portree

Skye’s main town is a bustling and colourful port used by both fishing and pleasure boats. There are plenty of shopping and eating opportunities, and you can take a walking tour to get your bearings.

Eilean Donan Castle

One of Scotland’s most visited attractions, the enchanting silhouette of Eilean Donan Castle dominates the landscape around Dornie (on the mainland). This 13th-century castle was recently restored and is a must-see on the road to Skye.

Bright Water Visitor Centre

This Kyleaken exhibition centre remembers the otter conservation work of Ring of Bright Water author Gavin Maxwell. Book tours here to nearby Eilean Bàn, a nature haven below the Skye Bridge.

Skye Ferry

The Glenachulish, Scotland’s only remaining turntable ferry runs between Glenelg and Kylerhea in the summer season and is a novel and historic way to arrive on the island. www.skyeferry.co.uk

Arts and Crafts

See the work of local artists and craftspeople in shops across the island – some studios are open to visitors too. As well as painting and sculpture inspired by the landscape, Skye specialisms include weaving, jewellery-making and ceramics.

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A sanctuary in the pretty village of Dunvegan

Lotus Heart Sanctuary Isle of Skye is located in the picturesque aptly named village of Dunvegan. The Thich Nhat Hanh inspired vegan sanctuary was set up in 2020 and provides a safe space for a variety of human & non-human animals to come together to simply “be”!

Lotus Animal Sanctuary is a haven and forever home to animals who have been rescued from slaughter, death, abuse & homelessness, and who need love, care, and shelter. The Lotus family consists of dogs, cows, cats, and sheep...although

advocate & activist Lotus founder Lynn has been involved in rescuing & rehoming many other species including pigs, chickens and goats since 2016.

Lotus Camping Pods are beautiful purpose-built pods to help generate income to sustain the sanctuary and all who live there! The vegan pods are nestled in the croft itself, surrounded by sheep and providing breath-taking views of the Cuillin Mountain Range, MacLeod’s Tables, Lotus Animal Sanctuary and Loch Dunvegan. The pods are bookable via AirBnB with a link to each pod on the Lotus website www. LotusHeartSanctuary.com

The animals residing at Lotus will give many of the Lotus guests & visitors a real opportunity to interact with them; something they may otherwise not have that opportunity to do. This is a crucial step in helping to enlighten and change the perspective many people hold around certain species of animals.

Through meeting the animals, visitors will be able to clearly identify that these species have the same needs, emotions, and behaviours that they see and feel from the companion animals many of them will share their homes with.

Regardless of species, all animals have the same powerful desire to live their lives and

care for their babies! These animals have the ability to give and receive love, the desire to be with family and friends, the ability to grief and be sad, to feel pain and terror, to experience pleasure and happiness, to play and be mischievous – they are non-human animals just like our cats and dogs, and we are human animals – we are all earthlings who are interconnected and coexist on Mother Earth...we are one!” Animals are here with us, not for us! Watch Earthlings at www.NationEarth.com. Always remember, the only difference between species is human perception.

Donate via PayPal.me/LotusHeartSanctuary Instagram, Facebook & TikTok @LotusHeartSanctuary Twitter @heart_sanctuary Website www.LotusHeartSanctuary.com

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and
HOME
THE CHIEFS OF CLAN MACLEOD
800 YEARS
15
DUNVEGAN CASTLE, ISLE OF SKYE IV55 8WF T: +44 (0) 1470 521206 E: INFO@DUNVEGANCASTLE.COM WWW.DUNVEGANCASTLE.COM Holiday West Highland (Oban Times), 259mm w x160mm h.indd 1 12/07/2022 15:16
Any visit to the Isle of Skye would be incomplete without enjoying the wealth of history on offer at Dunvegan Castle & Gardens. Enjoy a tour of the castle, delight in the beauty of our gardens, take an exhilarating boat trip to the local seal colony, appreciate an appetising meal at the MacLeod Tables Café,
browse our shops.
OF
FOR
OPEN: 1 APRIL -
OCTOBER 10AM - 5.30PM (LAST ENTRY 5PM)

THE OUTER HEBRIDES

Scattered at Scotland’s western edge, the Outer Hebrides are an enchanting world apart. A string of islands surrounded by the mighty Atlantic, they may share windswept landscapes and incredible wildlife, but each has its own, distinctive character.

In spring, they burst with life and colour, from the bleach-white lambs that will totter into your path, to the silver flash of mackerel and the pinks and yellows of flowers bursting through the grassy machair.

Gaelic tradition is strong in these communities, which are also known as the Western Isles, and the language and culture continues to influence all aspects of life, from music and literature to crofting, weaving and worship.

The Uists and Barra: Linked by a chain of causeways, the islands known as the Uists are bound by nature, geology and history, imprinted with a lacework pattern of freshwater lochans and narrow sea lochs bordered with rocky coves and pristine white beaches.

The diversity of the landscape ensures treats for nature lovers on land, shore and sea. Off-shore bird sightings include puffins, gannets and guillemots, while inland estuaries are home to waders, and moorlands provide prey for golden eagles and hen harriers. The long grass is a seasonal home for the elusive corncrake, particularly on the RSPB site at Balranald on North Uist.

Lochmaddy (North Uist) and Lochboisdale (South Uist) are the islands’ main port settlements, with white Hebridean houses, local shops and hotels with views to die for. From Lochboisdale port, look over to Canna and Rum – and to the south, spot the little island of Calvay on which stands a lighthouse and the remains of Castle Calvay, once a hiding place for Bonnie Prince Charlie.

On Benbecula, hikers head to the summit of Rueval, while those staying close to the water can visit Poll na Crann beach to the west

of the island – depending on the weather it can be a perfect sandy crescent, or covered in seaweed, the reason for its nickname ‘Stinky Bay’.

Barra is the most southerly of the inhabited Outer Hebrides, and has been a since the Bronze and Iron Ages – in more recent history it is best known as the setting for the 1949 classic film Whisky Galore! Nowadays, the island’s attractions include the medieval Kisimul Castle, after which its main village, Castlebay is named, and its airstrip at Northbay – where scheduled flights take off and land on the beach.

Lewis and Harris:

Though referred to as though they are separate islands, Lewis and Harris are one land mass, the largest of the Hebrides. Technology and communications mean the islands don’t seem quite as remote as they used to, but visiting can still feel like a step back to more simple times.

If you have a hankering to travel to somewhere even more remote, these islands are also the launching point for tours to St Kilda, a remarkable world heritage site with soaring sea stacks, colonies of seabirds and ruins that give an atmospheric sense of how life would have been on this now-uninhabited isle.

Lewis and Harris boast some of the most beautiful and least polluted beaches in the United Kingdom. Luskentyre on South Harris is a huge crescent of white sand lapped by turquoise ocean that resembles a tropical island, while nearby Scarista is smaller and more sheltered, but equally scenic. On Lewis, Uig beach, where the 12th century, ivory ‘Lewis Chessmen’ were discovered, is a popular camping destination.

The story of Harris Tweed seems even more remarkable when you become acquainted with the island the internationally sought-after fabric comes from, and appreciate the traditional methods used to weave the wool. A handful of shops and visitor attractions sell clothes and tweed memorabilia, but ask around and you might also be fortunate to meet someone with the skill.

These unusual islands boast more world-famous exports. The distillery in Tarbert, Harris has quickly become renowned for its beautifully-bottled gin, while Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis, is not only the Outer Hebrides bustling hub, it is also home to Stornoway black pudding or ‘Marag Dub’. This sausage, made from oatmeal, suet, onion and animal (usually sheep) blood has gained protected international status. Once you’ve tried the delicacy, breakfast will never be quite the same again.

DIARY DATE:

Ventoux 28th September 2022

8-10pm, tickets from £12

An Lanntair, Kenneth Street, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis

Description - Ventoux, presented here by 2Magpies, tells the di ering life stories of Marco Pantani and Lance Armstrong during the 2000 Tour de France.

https://tickets.lanntair.com

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Luskentyre beach, Isle of Harris www.scotphoto.com

oUTer hebrIDeS Top FIVE things to see, do and experience

Calanais Standing Stones

This atmospheric stone circle, has a reputation as Scotland’s Stonehenge, and as the inspiration for Craigh Na Dun in the Outlander books. Mull over the various theories about the origins of this 5,000-year-old Neolithic monument while refueling at the visitor centre cafe. calanais.org

Harris Tweed

Protected by Act of Parliament, every metre is woven to this day by hand, in the home of an islander and bearing the distinctive orb trademark. Some weavers provide demonstrations and welcome visitors to watch them at work. The Harris Tweed exhibition in Stornoway Town Hall reveals the secrets of this world-famous cloth. harristweed.org

Lewis Chessmen

The Lewis Chessmen are among the best loved archaeological treasures in Britain. After being kept on the mainland for over 150 years, six of the pieces are now back in the Outer Hebrides and displayed in the Museum nan Eilean in Lews Castle, Stornoway.

Beaches

The islands boast a string of white sand beaches that rival many found in the tropics. Everyone has their favourite, from Eoropie in the north to Vatersay in the south. And with more than 40 to choose from, there is plenty of space for everyone.

Gin & Whisky

The Outer Hebrides went almost 200 years without a single (legal) distillery. Now we are making up for lost time with four (and more being planned). Compare our trio of gins – the Isle of Harris Gin, Barra Atlantic Gin and Downpour, the new kid on the block from North Uist – to find your own favourite island tipple.

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FINISH: Long nish with pops of citrus and sweet peppery spice. Delicious. Very well balanced.

100 The first bottling in the new Scottish Field Whisky Series of exclusive cask bottlings Exclusively selected single cask of Dailuaine 12 YO PX Sherry Finished 46.9% £79.99 + postage within the UK only. SHOP.SCOTTISHFIELD.CO.UK
with lots of
to ee.
NOSE: Waxy and zesty
creamy
PALATE: Delicious layers of candied lemon and orange peel, with caramel digestive biscuits and rum soaked raisins. Hints of lemon curd, tri e, sherry-soaked vanilla sponge cake, tart lemon curd and lemon zest cream. Peppery spice and sherbet dip dabs come later.
TASTING NOTES BY BLAIR BOWMAN, SCOTTISH FIELD MAGAZINE’S WHISKY COLUMNIST LIMITED OFFER, ONLY 311 BOTTLES EACH BOTTLE HAND NUMBERED Over 18s only. Holiday West - FP SF Whsiky.indd 1 29/08/2022 14:37:08
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GETTING THERE

POINTS OF

THE SMAll ISlES

They always come as a quartet, Rum, Muck, Eigg and Canna, the Small Isles. Group them together by all means but never forget that each is unique.

Rum is a national nature reserve run by Nature Scot; Eigg leads the way in community ownership; Canna, a seat of Gaelic learning once owned by Gaelic scholar John Lorne Campbell the Gaelic scholar and his wife Margaret Fay Shaw, it was donated to the National Trust for Scotland.

Muck remains in private ownership now in the care of Colin MacEwen after his father Lawrence, who took over from his older brother Alasdair, died earlier this year. A true Hebridean legend.

Muck welcomes day visitors and longer-staying holiday makers; the latest addition to its hospitality is the purpose-built Gallanach Lodge.

The island farm produces excellent lamb and fresh seafood catches landed on the island make for memorable meals.

The island’s tea room has built up an incredible reputation for its cooking and baking – it supplies cakes to other establishments across the Highlands and its Choc-Ness Chocolates are attracting an increasing number of suppliers and very satisfied customers.

The Small Isles have their own dedicated CalMac route and in the last 25 years the islands have seen major harbour infrastructure investment. The days of the ferry out in the bay with passengers and cargo being brought ashore by small open ‘flit boats’ are long gone.

Muck has half-a-dozen beautiful sandy beaches on the island and it is made for walking and exploring.

On a clear day a climb to the sumit of Ben Airean will reward you with views as far as the Outer Hebridean islands of Barra, Eriskay, Vatersay; near neighbour Skye and as far south as Coll and Tiree.

Tiny Horse Island, home to Muck’s puffin colony,

DON’T MISS

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>
>
>
>
> www.theisleofcanna.com > The road to the Isles by car or train; ferry from Mallaig and Arisaig.
LINKS > www.isleofmuck.com
www.gallanachlodge.co.uk
www.arisaig.co.uk
www.isleofrum.com
isleofeigg.org
> ANCHORAGES Gallanach to the north and Port Mor to the south offer safe anchorages for visiting yachts. > GREEN SHED Crafts and produce on sale include rugs made with local wool, soaps and jewellery. > MEAT Beef and lamb raised on the island is excellent quality; buy or order if you can. > SEA LIFE Keep a look out for whales, orca and in the right season, basking sharks. > BUNK HOUSE Isle of Muck bunkhouse is at Port Mor; bunks plus two double rooms. > The community centre is the island’s social hub and offers toilets and a shower; kitchen and washing machine plus a library and heritage area plus Wi-Fi and internet access.
INTEREST
Muck welcomes day visitors and longerstaying holiday makers
Sunset over the Isles of Rum and Eigg

can be reached at low tide (always check timetable, weather and sea conditions).

Muck is a sporting island with plenty of fishing, stalking, driven and walked up shooting. Deer are still brought off the hill by ponies.

Studying the timetables of CalMac and Arisaig Marine will enable you to island hop around the Small Isles with a stay of a few hours or an overnight or longer stay here or there.

Add in the ferry from Mallaig to Skye and on to Rasaay and you have plenty of ways to visit these most northern of the Inner Hebrides.

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Isle of Eigg seen from the Isle of Muck Cliffs on the Isle of Canna
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