Outer Hebrides

THE OuTER HEBRIDES

Scattered at Scotland’s western edge, the Outer Hebrides are an enchanting world apart. A string of islands surrounded by the mighty Atlantic, they may share windswept landscapes and incredible wildlife, but each has its own, distinctive character.

In spring, they burst with life and colour, from the bleach-white lambs that will totter into your path, to the silver flash of mackerel and the pinks and yellows of flowers bursting through the grassy machair.

Gaelic tradition is strong in these communities, which are also known as the Western Isles, and the language and culture continues to influence all aspects of life, from music and literature to crofting, weaving and worship.

The uists and Barra:

Linked by a chain of causeways, the islands known as the Uists are bound by nature, geology and history, imprinted with a lacework pattern of freshwater lochans and narrow sea lochs bordered with rocky coves and pristine white beaches. The diversity of the landscape ensures treats for nature lovers on land, shore and sea. Off-shore bird sightings include puffins, gannets and guillemots, while inland estuaries are home to waders, and moorlands provide prey for golden eagles and hen harriers. The long grass is a seasonal home for the elusive corncrake, particularly on the RSPB site at Balranald on North Uist.

Lochmaddy (North Uist) and Lochboisdale (South Uist) are the islands’ main port settlements, with white Hebridean houses, local shops and hotels with views to die for. From Lochboisdale port, look over to Canna and Rum – and to the south, spot the little island of Calvay on which stands a lighthouse and the remains of Castle Calvay, once a hiding place for Bonnie Prince Charlie.

On Benbecula, hikers head to the summit of Rueval, while those staying close to the water can visit Poll na Crann beach to the west of the island – depending on the weather it can be a perfect sandy crescent, or covered in seaweed, the reason for its nickname ‘Stinky Bay’. Barra is the most southerly of the inhabited Outer Hebrides, and has been a since the Bronze and Iron Ages – in more recent history it is best known as the setting for the 1949 classic film Whisky Galore! Nowadays, the island’s attractions include the medieval Kisimul Castle, after which its main village, Castlebay is named, and its airstrip at Northbay – where scheduled flights take off and land on the beach.

Lewis and Harris:

Though referred to as though they are separate islands, Lewis and Harris are one land mass, the largest of the Hebrides. Technology and communications mean the islands don’t seem quite as remote as they used to, but visiting can still feel like a step back to more simple times. If you have a hankering to travel to somewhere even more remote, these islands are also the launching point for tours to St Kilda, a remarkable world heritage site with soaring sea stacks, colonies of seabirds and ruins that give an atmospheric sense of how life would have been on this now-uninhabited isle.

Lewis and Harris boast some of the most beautiful and least polluted beaches in the United Kingdom. Luskentyre on South Harris is a huge crescent of white sand lapped by turquoise ocean that resembles a tropical island, while nearby Scarista is smaller and more sheltered, but equally scenic. On Lewis, Uig beach, where the 12th century, ivory ‘Lewis Chessmen’ were discovered, is a popular camping destination.

The story of Harris Tweed seems even more remarkable when you become acquainted with the island the internationally sought-after fabric comes from, and appreciate the traditional methods used to weave the wool. A handful of shops and visitor attractions sell clothes and tweed memorabilia, but ask around and you might also be fortunate to meet someone with the skill.

Corncrake.

These unusual islands boast more world-famous exports. The distillery in Tarbert, Harris has quickly become renowned for its beautifully-bottled gin, while Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis, is not only the Outer Hebrides bustling hub, it is also home to Stornoway black pudding or ‘Marag Dub’. This sausage, made from oatmeal, suet, onion and animal (usually sheep) blood has gained protected international status. Once you’ve tried the delicacy, breakfast will never be quite the same again.

DIARY DATe:

the hebCelt Music Festival, July 13 to 16 will include performances from texas, skippinish and trail west.