2 minute read
A HISTORIC TOWN - OBAN Oban
Nestled in the crook of a sheltered bay, Oban has been a gateway to the Hebrides from its earliest days. Its key coastal location has shaped its past, as it will surely define its future.
Advertisement
Although there are important ancient settlements close by, and Viking invasions took place along the coastline, Oban’s current status as the unofficial capital of the west Highlands is relatively recent – much of the modern town grew up around a fishing station, which was established 1786, and the whisky distillery which opened in 1794 (initially it was a brewery, making ‘Cowbell Ale’).
The arrival of steam ships and trains gave further momentum to growth and brought well known visitors including Queen Victoria, who described the little town as ‘one of the finest spots we have seen’. The impact of that boom era can be seen in the grand Victorian buildings that still dominate the waterfront.
Patrons such as John Stuart McCaig helped to ensure the town’s ongoing development. McCaig’s Tower, the colisseum-like structure that overlooks the bay Battery Hill, was the banker’s venture – begun in 1897 and intended as a monument to his family which would also provide work for local stone masons in the winter months.
Oban confirmed its strategic importance in the Second World War, when it was a base for navy vessels and played a vital role in the Battle of the Atlantic, while neighbouring villages hosted evacuees from the cities. You can find out more about local history – and the town’s wartime role in particular – in a visit to the War and Peace Museum on the old Oban Times building on the Corran Esplanade
One of Oban’s many unusual features is that it is a town with two cathedrals. St John’s Cathedral, part of the Scottish Episcopal Church, is on George Street, and St Columba’s Cathedral, the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Argyll, on the Corran Esplanade. Follow the shoreline west along the esplanade, passing St Columba’s
Cathedral and the town’s War Memorial, and you will come to 15th century ruins of Dunollie castle, an historic stronghold for the MacDougall clan that is now a popular visitor attraction with a museum, garden walks and cafe.
Today, Oban remains a meeting point and a melting pot, as well as a place where Gaelic culture is celebrated. It is popular with artists and performers, especially around the Winter Festival and summer games, and its venues often attract better-known names than their intimate space might lead you to expect.
As well as the regular Caledonian MacBrayne ferries, Oban plays host to some magnificent tall ships, ex-herring drifters, cruise liners, and occasionally the Waverley paddle steamer.
If you enjoy boat spotting, the north pier is a good place to start (and the glass-fronted restaurants guarantee a good view) or for an overview of the town’s historic settings all at once, why not head back up to McCaig’s tower and watch the sun set from the viewing platform.
Kerrera
e island of Kerrera is so close to Oban that you can almost touch it, and it is easy to reach via a short ferry trip. It is tranquil, scenic contrast from town, and an accessible rst taste of the Hebrides, with a tea room, restaurant and bunkhouse. At just three miles long, is easy to explore via the footpath that loops the coastline and passes the formidable Gylen castle.
DIARY DATE:
Oban International
Sea Shanty Festival
Friday 24th- Sunday 26th June
A weekend of rip-roaring songs and music of the sea await you courtesy of great musicians from France, England and Scotland, performing just for you amidst the spectacular scenery of the Western Highlands. obanshanty.org.uk