THE EXPOSED ISSUE Stripped Bare -1-
THE EXPOSED ISSUE Stripped Bare
ex路pose
verb : to leave (something) without covering or protection : to reveal (something hidden, dishonest) : to make known : bring to light (as something shameful)
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NOEL MARTIN -3-
collection
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CONTENTS
60 THE REAL YOU? Who will you choose to be? 62 UNDERNEATH IT ALL The impressions that are left 67 HELLO MY NAME IS ____ When a stranger becomes human
70 STRIPPING The original expose 72 JESSE SCARPONE From dreamer to illustrator 76 FEMME TECH Friend or foe? 78 ABIGAIL SKAGGS Where function follows form 82 MIKAILA HIRCHERT Behind the eyes of the screen
Clockwise from top: Photographed by Susan O’Brien at the Strangers Exhibiton, Savannah, GA Anonymous model photographed by Mikaila Hirchert for the Behind the Eyes of the Screen series Anonymous model photographed by Justin Bartels. What’s Underneath Series photographed by Elisa Goodkind and Lily Mandelbaum
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CONTENTS
86 NOEL MARTIN Bury me in fur and leather 96 URBAN UNIFORMITY Individual in a crowd 106 SHARON GASKILL The original ink master 120 COVER UP DARLING Make your mask in tulle
Clockwise from top:
COVERS:
130 THE BOXCAR CHILD Tenielle Adderley
Morgan Marzulli photographed by Tori Walls. Veil stylist’s own.
Morgan Marzulli photographed by Tori Walls. Veil stylist’s own.
Sharon Gaskill photographed by Paula Sprenger. Bag stylist’s own. Jewelry by Spencer Malinski.
Kathleen Sayler photographed by Pat Bombard. Top and skirt by Noel Martin. Bag by Chanel. Underwear by Versace.
138 WORLDVIEW Exposing culture
Kathleen Sayler photographed by Pat Bombard. Sweatshirt by H&M.
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FLAUNT EDITORS
RACHEL SCAFFE REESE TIMBERLAKE XIMENA MARQUEZ
CREATIVE DIRECTOR REESE TIMBERLAKE
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
WRITERS
PRESIDENT
PHOTOGRAPHERS
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
Rachel Scaffe, Reese Timberlake, Ximena Marquez
Pat Bombard, Tori Walls, Patrick Bepko, Paula Sprenger, Mikaila Hirchert, Justin Bartels, Harrison Albert
Christine DeNicola, Melanie Maria
STYLE DIRECTOR
DESIGNERS
ASSOCIATE EDITORS SWAY BENNS E. RYAN ELLIS ANDREW STARK
Noel Martin, Spencer Malinski, Claire Barnhardt, Tenielle Adderley
ARTISTS
ZAQUAN CHAMP
Abigail Skaggs, Jessy Scarpone, Susan O’Brien, Elisa Goodkind, Lily Mandelbaum, Sharon Gaskill
EDITOR AT LARGE
MODELS
ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR
JOHN-PAUL PRYOR
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
JEFFREY JAH Jeffrey@Flaunt.com
DIGITAL APPLICATIONS WAYLON PEELE
STYLISTS
XIMENA MARQUEZ
RACHEL SCAFFE
JOHNATHAN CROCKER Jcrocker@Flaunt.com
Meagan Henry, Kathleen Sayler, Sharon Gaskill, Morgan Marzulli, Nick Lintner
GREGG LAGAMBINA J.WINTERS ELISA HYMAN
CONTRIBUTING STYLE EDITORS ROSE FORDE JOSHUA LIEBMAN LAURY SMITH
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DIGITAL
FLAUNT.COM
CONTROLLER
LUIS A. BARAJAS, SR.
HEADQUARTERS
LOS ANGELES 1422 NORTH HIGHLAND AVE. LOS ANGELES, CA 90028 +1 323 836
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CONTRIBUTORS JESSY SCARPONE is an illustrator originally from Libertyville, Illinois. She currently attends SCAD and is graduating in May 2015.
NOEL MARTIN is a South Carolina born, NYC based independent fashion designer. After graduating from Parsons The New School for Design Noel has never had a dull moment. From designing to styling to producing fashion shows, Noel does it all. She grew up dancing for 16 years which helped her discover her main inspiration behind her fashion designs: the female body. Noel designs for women of all shapes and sizes, exposing a personal story about herself in every collection.
This the exposed issue, what is something no one knows about you? I tend to carry a set of tweezers on my person because I’m a hairy Italian. MADDI PONKO is a freelance fashion stylist and make up artist originally from Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. She graduated in 2014 from SCAD with a BFA in Fashion Marketing and Management. She also earned a certification in High Fashion and Photographic Makeup from the London School of Beauty and Makeup and a certification in Fashion Styling from Central Saint Martins.
Speaking of exposure... Most people do not know that I design 90% of my collections in the nude. MIKAILA HIRCHERT is currently a student of photography, studying at the Savannah College of Art and Design. She says that she is from a little bit of everywhere, having lived in seven states since she was born. She is most inspired by concepts in portraiture and documenting quirky but meaningful moments in time.
Maddi’s dirty, little secret is... My family cooked a pound of bacon every Sunday for 18 years of my life. We’re a family of 4. My sister moved out when I was 8. That’s a decade of shame bacon every weekend. SPENCER MALINSKI is a student at the Savannah College of Art and Design graduating with a BFA in accessory design. Throughout her education and industry experience thus far, she has excelled in handbag and footwear design. Utilizing different furs and skins she created beautiful designs while always staying on trend. She has had past experience as an accessory designer at Coach and Zac Posen. This is the exposed issue, what is a dirty little secret no one knows about you? I sucked my thumb until I was 13.
Mikaila revealed to us that... It’s almost April, and I still have my Christmas tree up. And, no, I have no plans to put it up anytime soon.
CLAIRE BARNHARDT is a jewelry designer at the Savannah College of Art and Design. Claire was interested in making and creating from an early age. It was only natural that she pursue her interests and talents as an education path and a career. With previous experience at Vera Wang and Dannijo, Claire is expected to soar as a jewelry designer. Claire revealed to us that... I can balance a spoon on my nose for hours. CONTRIBUTOR PORTRAITS CLOWISE FROM TOP LEFT.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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STRIPPED Bare, and BARING All, The Editors
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The Real You? Written By:
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Reese Timberlake
Ready to hit the gym? Male and female figures are becoming more shapely with healthy eating and athletic training attributing to the curvy, yet toned form. Recently the androgynous silhouette was popular with bodies of both sexes appearing very thin with little to no shape. However, as quickly as androgyny came in, it went right out. Juice cleansing, yoga, and “model fit,” are terms coming into play for women while “throwback fitness,” can be used to describe the pack-like fitness regimes that are growing more popular for men. The silhouettes for both genders reflect the traditional female and male physiques, embracing their natural, strong, and healthy selves.
Could instagramming a post - gym selfie be today’s form of art? Jen Selter has used “belfies,” or buttselfies to attract five million Instagram followers, and has even started a career out of it. She inspires her fans with quotes and fitness regimes to achieve her ideal body type. Although I think Selter might be a bit of a narcissist, it has gotten her contracts with fitness brands and a two-page spread in Vanity Fair. It’s hard to believe that Michelangelo once sculpted the David as a form of art in 1501, and today men are physically sculpting their own bodies in a similar aesthetic as works of art.
Many factors in today’s culture have taken place to bring us back to our basic gender stereotyped bodies. Fitness and healthy eating have created lean and natural forms that people are proud to show off. Juice bars are on every other street in Manhattan to promote a nutritional diet while feminine workout classes are growing in popularity. Model Fit in particular has a vision to create this new ideal body type. Justin Gelband, dubbed the “Model Whisperer” by T Magazine, incorporates yoga, pilates, balance, and more to create bodies similar to Victoria’s Secret Angels and Sports Illustrated models he trained in the past. Men use physical exercise such as Tough Mudder and Spartan Race to work out in a more primitive way. These programs help sculpt a man’s body. Some questionsi have been raised if men and women are using their bodies as a form of art and self promotion.
There is no doubt that social media has had a huge impact on today’s society, and it is projecting to have an even larger pull on the generation Y and younger consumers who continue to grow up with the internet. I myself have become completely addicted to social media, as well as the internet as a whole. I hate that I am on my laptop six to eight hours a day, however there seems no getting passed it. Although I have accepted the fact that the internet is a necessity in my life, I am having a hard time accepting the fact that the internet has created a sense of false reality. Jen Selter’s large behind, Kim Kardashian’s extremely nipped in waist, Victoria’s Secret Angels unattainable physiques, and Sports Illustrated models flawless skin, have all been altered by technology, to be seen by the public on the internet. I think it is a shame anyone should have to alter themselves in order to look a certain way. There will always be an ideal body type. We can look back on history and clearly see the trend. However, the way that these trends are portrayed today seem to be the real problem.
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Underneath It All For centuries women have confined themselves in clothing garments too tight for their bodies. Most assume it’s normal to have feet that ache from strappy heel pumps, or do not even realize the pain their bra strap causes from digging into their flesh. Photographer Justin Bartels illustrates what women go through from their binding garments through his photo series, Collection.
“Head Turning Heels”
“The IMPRESSION series came about from my dating experiences in college, noticing the different trends and styles that women wore,” he explained to Refinery 29. “It interested me that so many women would wear binding or uncomfortable clothing to either impress or attract others, or for their own self-esteem.” The images Bartel captured are breath taking and leave the viewer stunned. The indentations in the women’s skin hurt to even look at, however, unfortunately most women do not even question wearing these constricting garments, and do not consider the damages they are putting their body and skin through. To make an even larger impact Bartel named each image after direct quotes from fashion magazines, wbich he told Refinery 29, “[shows] how we market to women to [get them to] wear these clothes, regardless of how it affects them.”
Written by Reese Timberlake Photographed by Justin Bartels
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“BOUDOIRLICIOUS Lingerie.”
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“Lace up the curves of a Hollywood dream girl.”
“Just the right decoration to get his blood pumping.”
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“Need a lift?”
Bartel’s main goal of the photo series was to send a message to all women. As he stated,
“I hope this series would reach women, and inspire them to question what they wear and why they wear it.”
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HELLO MY NAME IS ________
and I want to know you. Written by Rachel Scaffe Photo taken from The Strangers Exhibition, Savannah, Ga Susan O’Brien
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WHAT DOES A STRANGER MAKE, and other existential questions
When does a stranger become a human? The setting: 6 rooms and 6 strangers. Each room is decked out with everything you need to know about each stranger, complete with personal items, videos, and recordings of each person relaying their life stories, both wonderful and tragic. Everything is there, with the exception of the strangers themselves. Susan O’Brien, the director and producer of a new art exhibit all about the strangers around us, describes her exhibit as an attempt to force people to put their phones down and look up. According to her artist’s statement for the project, she feels that, in our culture’s obsession with social media, we have lost the art and the romance of simply meeting a stranger on Each room clearly evokes a personality and an individual the street. through all the senses. Each detail of the room, from To address this problem, she has designed an exhibit the recordings to the furniture, right down to the scent, to force its viewers to get to know each stranger, provides an insight into each stranger’s life. In a way, by the up close and personal. The exhibit began months end of the exhibition, you know these faceless strangers ago, when O’Brien originally began approaching more than you know some of your closest friends. Which, strangers and asking them if they would be interested according to O’Brien, is the point. in participating in such a project. Those that agreed were followed with a camera crew for two months, In our culture saturated with social media and digital documenting both their normal routines as well as connections, we have no qualms about liking a stranger’s interviews that encouraged them to share stories about photo, but we cannot hold a stranger’s eye contact for themselves. From there, O’Brien and her team began more than two seconds. And, it seems, this is a trend that cannot be ignored, at least by artists. Another installation designing spaces that would reflect these strangers. artist, Brandon Doman, explores this subject by collecting stories from strangers. All stories are welcomed, with the only requirement being that they are true. Over the course of seven years, he has received tens of thousands of stories that he collects and then posts anonymously in an attempt to draw connections between each of us. Even projects like the immensely popular photo series, Humans of New York, is essentially meant to share stories and an attempt to humanize a faceless stranger. If a project like this can garner over 12 million Facebook likes, perhaps our culture is growing desperate and lonely for more human connection. Physical interaction rather than a series of clicks.
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EVERY DAY WE CHOOSE WHAT
Photo taken from The Strangers Project, New York, NY Brandon Dorman
WE EXPOSE TO EACH OTHER. -Brandon Dorman, NY Strangers Project -69-
STRIPPING
the original expos´e Written by Rachel Scaffe
“NOTHING WILL EVER LOOK LIKE YOU AGAIN. YOUR BODY’S LIKE ART: IT COMES AND GOES.” -70-
Photo taken from What’s Underneath Project, New York, NY Elisa Goodkind & Lily Mandelbaum
In the heart of downtown New York City, a mother and daughter team are working to overhaul all of our beauty and image perceptions. How are they doing it? By getting you to strip. Elisa Goodkind and Lily Mandelbaum have been producing style-related videos and content since 2009 for their blog, StyleLikeU. Since the beginning, they have focused on style over fashion and on promoting different styles and authentic stories, with an emphasis on a positive body image. In 2014, they began a new series, entited “What Underneath”, which asks its subject to answer personal questions while removing their clothing. Some questions focus on style-related experiences, but most center on body image. Each video ends with the subject, stripped down to their skivvies, answering the same question: Why is, in your body, a good place to be? While stripping may not be the most original or shocking idea in our jaded age, but each video reveals more about its subject than their body. In fact, each video asks questions (and receives answers) that no one else seems to be asking. Despite the fact that positive body image is such a buzzword topic in our culture right now, very little new information is being introduced into the conversation. This is where the What’s Underneath series comes in. By asking people to simultaneously reveal themselves physically and emotionally, we are able to see the connections between style and self, and how the stories behind our clothing can reveal underlying issues that are rarely uncovered otherwise. Perhaps this even brings a new meaning to the idea of exposure: body and soul stripped bare to reveal what’s underneath. -71-
JESSY SCARPONE, from dreamer to illustrator THIS PAGE: “WOODSY.” (2014). BLOCK PRINT. COURTESY THE ARTIST. RIGHT: “BLUE.” (2014). BLOCK PRINT. COURTESY THE ARTIST.
Written by: Ximena Marquez
Jessyca Leigh Scarpone, known by friends simply as Jessy, was born in a suburb of Chicago in 1991. She grew up dreaming of eventually being able to move to a better please where she could be exposed to a more creative and diverse environment. This came true in 2012 when she was accepted into SCAD and then moved to Savannah, GA. She now identifies herself as an illustrator.
When did you start creating art? I started when I was 3. I made portraits of me, my mom, dad and brother, dated from 1994.
Is there anything you feel like you’re constantly exposing viewers to with the help of your art? My work lately has come mostly from a stream of consciousness-like approach. I have been having fun just making art and not thinking too much about it. So I suppose I’d say I expose or convey light-heartedness and a more aesthetic/narrative appeal as opposed to conceptual or deep in meaning.
What inspires you? I get my inspiration mainly from past artists. I like Monet and other impressionists for their organic brushstrokes and line making, but I also get random inspiration out of the blue either by talking about art or by being around very creative people. Also, most of my ideas come from sketching when I get the sudden urge and then develop them into something more.
Scarpone’s work will be showcased at SCAD’s Drawing Works exhibition starting Friday, April 3, 2014 at Alexander Hall. -72-
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THIS PAGE: “UNTITLED.” (2014). BLOCK PRINT. COURTESY THE ARTIST.
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THIS PAGE: “UNTITLED.” (2014). BLOCK PRINT. COURTESY THE ARTIST.
FEMME TECH, friend or foe? Written by: Ximena Marquez
I like technology as much as the millennial girl next door, but I draw the line at wearable technology that comes in the form of everyday jewelry. Indeed, we live in a world where most of us are attached to our smartphones and are constantly exposed to all social media platforms, making them an integral part of our lives, but is it really necessary for one to wear technology as one would wear a family heirloom ring? Technology giants, such as Intel, would like to think so. The existence of vibrating rings and bracelets that let consumers know about an incoming text or call shows how addicted to technology we have become and how willing we are to try anything that the technology industry throws at us. With that being said, I have to recognize how smart it is of tech companies to collaborate with well known fashion brands, such as Rebecca Minkoff, to target female consumers, since we are often forgotten by the whole technology industry; but perhaps we would have been better left alone.
THE BLOOD BRIDGE FROM NAOMI KIZHNER’S “ENERGY ADDICTS” FINAL PROJECT COLLECTION. -76-
After looking through the whole repertoire of wearables, I can say there might be only one piece of wearable technology that I may be considering getting, The Guardian Angel. Its purpose is to help female consumers get out of situations where they might feel threatened. This can be done by pressing a button and faking a phone call or sending the location to anyone who might be able to help the consumer. Apart from The Guardian Angel pendant, I don’t need a bracelet to monitor how many steps I take everyday, or a pretty ring to alert me of an incoming email, which by the way, the wearer would have to wait to access the phone to be able to read it. How healthy can it really be to be constantly exposed to this crazy amount of technology? But really, how far are we willing to go for technology? Naomi Kizhner made a good point with her final project called “Energy Addicts.” Her very invasive wearable technology collection raises awareness of the things we are willing to do in the name of technology. “The Blood Bridge” piece has hypodermic needles and a hydro micro turbine. The piece harvests energy from veins in the forearm, which then can be used to charge one’s smartphone. By using this, are we wearing the technology or is the technology wearing us? The way I see it, technology should aid us in our everyday lives. But, the moment we let it take over our bodies, we are in serious trouble. Even though I am fully aware that this trend will not die down, and curiosity is my second name, part of me still wishes it would. If we are really that desperate for technology to be part of us and we cannot be a second without it, then we should consider checking ourselves into tech rehab. Let’s not forget that we are human beings and not machines.
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Where Function Follows Form Written by: Reese Timberlake
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THIS AND OPPOSITE PAGE: SKETCHES (2014). WATERCOLOR AND INK. COURTESY THE ARCHITECT.
Abigail Skaggs, an architecture student in her senior year at the Savannah College of Art and Design, explores the design process behind creating a new space. The project was to create a system of aggeragted buildings on a river walk that proposed and encouraged community dwelling and circulation. The beginning stages of an architect’s process are crucial. Many factors are behind the thought process required in order to fully understand a space. Skaggs first took into account human senses in her sketchbook; Because skin is the most powerful sense temperature was a big part to consider when designing different elements in the space. This led to other ideas such as the human bones, skeletal system, taste, touch, and smell that were all considerations in the preliminary stages. When picking through these beginning sketches the artist’s mind can wander, giving them insight into ideas they had not thought of before. Skaggs’ work specifically exposes all of the work that goes behind the artistic process of desiging a space. As in this project, sometimes function of a building follows the form that was created in these beginning design stages. As in most creative fields, sketching out ideas can be a huge help when molding a concept. Skaggs’ creative thinking process is most interesting because of the intricate and beautiful details that are incorporated into her beginning sketch books. Thoughts and innovations practically bleed from the pages, giving Skaggs a better understanding of the space and of the necessary work still to come.
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THIS PAGE: SKETCHES (2014). WATERCOLOR AND INK. COURTESY THE ARCHITECT.
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MIKAILA HIRCHERT, Behind the Eyes of the Screen
Written by: Rachel Scaffe Today, we are surrounded by screens. Glowing screens, HDR screens, LCD screens, high-res screens, the list goes on. In fact, you could say we are better at making eye contact with a screen than with human beings. In her photo series, “Behind the Eyes of the Screen,” photographer Mikaila Hirchert explores this idea by capturing subjects, documentary-style, interacting with their screens. What drew you to photography originally? What initially drew me to photography was those years in childhood when it was common to get 4x6 prints made. Not that I knew this at the age of six, but I liked the idea of holding a tangible moment in time. Then, I just knew it meant I could have pictures of my Beanie Babies, but my love for photography grew from there. I think, not to sound too cliché, one of the most interesting parts of photography is the concept of time. There is nothing more inevitable than time, and photography is a way to make it seem like something we, as humans, can control. What can an image reveal about its subject, its viewer, and its photographer? That’s another interesting thing about photography. What a photograph can reveal is completely subjective to the viewer and their thoughts, feelings, experiences. As artists, we look to communicate something that we can only hope our audience sees when viewing our art. It’s a little different though, in that it is, for the most part, an unaltered fragment of time itself so there is some truth to all photography. -82-
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF MIKAILA HIRCHERT, “BEHIND THE EYES -83- OF THE SCREEN,” 2015
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In this particular series, what is it you are attempting to capture? In this work, I want to document the connection that we as a generation experience with technology through digital photographs. The screen acts for many of us as a means of comfort, and it is able to relate to our lives through lines and pictures, as well as serve as an aid to the boredom of a resting mind. What we do not always take into consideration is the amount of time we spend with those characters that are not a physical presence. We seem to lose a sense of reality when focused on watching the screen, and spend a bulk of our time interested with a created and scripted sense of reality, while disconnected from the actual world itself. It is our dinner date, our background noise, our companion at night, and ultimately a life that we wish to experience. Through this photographic series, I hope to capture the people who choose to participate in the mindless seduction of the screen. Would you consider this series to be representative of a generation or attitude, or is it something more personal? I really wanted this series to be more about a generation. I took into consideration the idea of the generations we affect and then those that pre-date our generation. but I found that most of this series was inspired by us twenty-somethings. Technology itself is a weird thing if you think about it. We look to it as a guide and sometimes find it to be a more personal shield; it’s interesting that we use it as a defense mechanism in that we, as Millennials, have such strong opinions and ideas to voice through the screen. This series is personal and documentative in that I feel like we are all in some way affected by the implementation of technology. I think the time is now to realize if it is helping or hurting and if there needs to be a bigger push for something more balanced.
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Noel MARTIN, bury me in fur and leather Photographed by Pat Bombard Written by Reese Timberlake
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FUR COAT AND KNIT TOP BY NOEL MARTIN. EARRINGS BY NOEL MARTIN. WAISTBAND BY VERSACE.
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“Dressing to feel something is what inspired me to take my career path.”
When did you first know you wanted to be a fashion designer? What first inspired you? I definitely had to discover that this was my going to be my career path. When applying for colleges in high school I didn’t know where I wanted to apply for a while, because I kept asking myself what I wanted to do, and I wasn’t sure yet. I knew I was creative and crafty, but I wasn’t particularly skilled in visual arts at the time either. So it took a little push and some time before I finally decided to try to get into a fashion school. I have always been mostly inspired by eras in fashion, classic fashion icons from the various eras, and the shape and motion of the female physique. What is your favorite piece to design? Mostly everything I fantasize about creating is inspired by luxury and tends to contain fur or leather or a combination of the two. I love all kinds of luxury so I design for a luxurious result. I think in shapes and silhouettes, fur lends itself to take very dramatic shapes. Leather can achieve a very crisp shape, which also simulates drama to me. As far as garments go, I like designing separates and outerwear a lot. What is something most people do not know about you? Most people don’t know that I took ballet and studio dance for over 16 years as a child and teen. This was very much the influence of my biggest inspiration, which is the female body. I have always been very aware of the different shapes of a woman, and I strive to create a simulated hourglass with silhouettes in most of my work. Do you have a muse? I have lots of women who I would consider muses of mine but my main one is probably my good friend Kirsten Rinck. We went to high school together, and she closes most of my shows in NOLA. I love that she is technically kind of petite and has a curvy model figure while still looking very trim and professionally model-esque. -88-
LEATHER TOP AND PERFORATED SKIRT BY NOEL MARTIN. BAG BY CHANEL. WAISTBAND BY VERSACE. SHOES BY ASOS.
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What do you think is the most important aspect of the fashion industry? That’s a tough one. I think the answer probably depends on your (independent) end goals in fashion. To me, fashion should always be about style and striving to achieve timelessness in design. I want to make women feel confident and beautiful in my clothes, and I want women to feel empowered by what they choose to wear. That is an incredibly important aspect of the industry to me as an independent designer. I could say that dressing to feel something is what inspired me to take my career path as well. What is your greatest struggle? Staying motivated and driven and focused without getting discouraged is my biggest struggle. Keeping the willingness to continue on through the ups and downs of the creative process is definitely a reoccurring battle as a designer.
THIS PAGE: TOP AND SHORTS BY NOEL MARTIN. BAG AND SHOES BY NOEL MARTIN. OPPOSITE PAGE: SWEATSHIRT BY H&M.
THIS PAGE: SWEATSHIRT BY H&M. DRESS BY NOEL MARTIN. FUR ACCESSORIES BY NOEL MARTIN. SHOES BY SUPERGA. OPPOSITE PAGE: FUR COAT BY NOEL MARTIN.
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If you could change anything about yourself or your work what would it be? I would definitely change my productivity level. I struggle to stay focused while doing one thing for a significant amount of time. I work most effectively on projects that are quick to start and finish. In construction, I love finishing things. I guess I would change the longevity of my worth ethic in the studio. And I wish I could stay truly excited and inspired to creating 100% of the time but, there is a lot to gain is forcing yourself to look deeper for inspiration. This is the exposure issue, do you feel like you are exposed in your work? In life? Exposing myself is actually a really important aspect of my creative process. I design a collection to tell a story and my stories tend to be selfish, or just very specifically personal. I get peaks of high inspiration that come with certain feelings and emotions and experiences. Feeling something new often inspires me to create. I like to tell the observers intimate details about myself and, about the design process I take in the collections and the presentations. The idea of purposefully exposing yourself is more freeing than feeling like you are hiding something about your true self.
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“The idea of purposefully exposing yourself is more freeing than feeling like you are hiding something about your true self.�
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STYLE DIRECTOR: REESE TIMBERLAKE ASSOCIATE STYLISTS: MELANIE MARIA MODEL: KATHLEEN SAYLER THIS PAGE: FUR COAT AND ACCESSORIES BY NOEL MARTIN. PERFORATED SHORTS BY NOEL MARTIN. PHONE CASE BY MOSCHINO. OPPOSITE PAGE: FUR COAT BY NOEL MARTIN.
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THIS PAGE: OVERALLS BY URBAN OUTFITTERS. BRA MODEL’S OWN. SHOES BY SEYCHELLES.
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Written by Rachel Scaffe Photographed by Patrick Bepko
URBAN UNIFORMITY,
individual in a crowd
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We use uniformity to link ourselves together, forming a collective blanket that shields us all from the elements.
THIS PAGE: JACKET BY COP COPINE. JEANS BY ZARA. SHOES BY TOPSHOP. OPPOSITE PAGE: OVERALLS BY URBAN OUTFITTERS. BRA MODEL’S OWN.
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JACKET BY ALLSAINTS. TOP BY H&M. PANTS BY INTERMIX. SHOES BY SEYCHELLES.
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Modern thinking and technology have stressed individualism to us for years now. We have been taught to embrace a personality and style that is uniquely our own in order to distinguish ourselves from the rest. Diversity and individualism are the key threads that run through our education, both mental and social, and as we mature, they become our cultural obsessions. Years of straining to be unique have made these differences between us smaller and subtler, until they are practically imperceptible. Today’s world has grown hurried and disconnected with its obsession with newness. We have grown disillusioned to the excitement of newness and redefining ourselves constantly, and now find ourselves longing for connection. Rather than allowing fashion to identify our own unique quirks, fashion can become a tribal signifier, informing more about our community than ourselves. Since the beginning of time, we have used our clothing to identify and reflect our society. Today, we do the same. However, rather than painting on tribal colors, we use practicality and clean uniformity to define our community, serene in the midst of chaos. In a world of industrial spaces, our clothing blends in among the concrete, sporty and functional, beautiful in its practicality. Embrace a subversive uniformity. At first look, it is simply another take on utilitarian androgyny, but upon closer research, you notice the slogans and logos in pro-activist slang, high-functioning deconstruction and minimalism, and subtle details that reveal a sort of exclusive rebellion. So, in a way, our fashion can expose our collective need for each other. We use uniformity to link ourselves together, forming a collective blanket that shields us all from the elements.
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TOP BY TOPSHOP. JEANS BY ZARA. SHOES BY SEYCHELLES.
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STYLE DIRECTOR: XIMENA MARQUEZ MODEL: MEAGAN HENRY OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP AND PANTS BY URBAN OUTFITTERS THIS PAGE: HAT BY ASOS. JACKET BY TOPSHOP. SHORTS BY ZARA. SHOES BY SEYCHELLES.
ONCE UPON A TIME, people were born into communities and had to find their individuality. Today, people are born individuals and have to find their communities. 窶適-Hole trend report -105-
SHARON GASKILL, the original ink master Written by Rachel Scaffe Photographed by Paula Sprenger
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BAG AND SOCKS BY SPENCER MALINSKI
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OPPOSITE PAGE: JEWELRY BY CLAIRE BARNHARDT THIS PAGE: RING STYLIST’S OWN
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BAG BY SPENCER MALINSKI JEANS MODEL’S OWN
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Tattooing, one the the world’s most ancient and stigmatized traditions, is Sharon Gaskill’s bread, butter, and favorite pastime. A former painter, she now finds herself breaking stereotypes and redefining what art is through the eyes of ink. What got you interested in tattooing originally? I've always been into art. As a kid my dad hired a heavily tattooed babysitter named Leah. He'd always joke and say that she was the best because no one else would hire her. All jokes aside, she was awesome, she'd always let me paint with her and was the sweetest girl. As I got older I got accepted into SCAD. As disappointing as I'm sure it was to my father, I didn't feel like Illustration was my calling, so I decided to go out and get an apprenticeship. What do you think a person’s tattoos reveal about them? Tattoos are really personal so everyone has their own reason to get them. I honestly think it depends on the type of tattoo. I can't lie, I'll easily judge a person of the originality and quality of their tattoos. The people who spend the time and money to collect good artwork, I genuinely respect more than the person looking for the cheapest tattoo that they found on Pinterest.
What do you think your tattoos say about you? Hopefully, my tattoos reveal just how much I enjoy collecting art. I travel around to tattooists I'd love to learn from. Its crazy how much talking with and watching another artist can teach you. Every time, I look at one of my tattoos I can piece together tips and tricks mentioned to me. I'm a strong believer that not every tattoo has to have meaning. Just like any body modification, it should be based on how you want your body to look. Do they change the way people perceive you? Tattoos genuinely change the way people look at you especially if you're heavily tattooed. More times than not I get "you're such a pretty girl, why did you ruin your body with these tattoos?". There's also people who will stop you to appreciate them or the ones who just stare. Either way, they do draw a lot of attention, whether the reaction is positive or negative. Do you consider tattooing a pure form of art? Where do you see tattooing in 10 or so years? Tattooing is growing in popularity. The media is definitely helping tattoos become more widely accepted, which is rad. I've definitely seen a lot more people walking around with tattoos, which I hope continues to grow in ten years. As optimistic as it sounds, I hope the public will start to realize what high quality tattoos look like and cost.
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BAG BY SPENCER MALINSKI JEWELRY BY VITA FEDE
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ON BOTH PAGES: JEWELRY BY CLAIRE BARNHARDT
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“You’re such a pretty girl, why did you ruin your body with these tattoos?”
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ON BOTH PAGES: JEWELRY BY CLAIRE BARNHARDT
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BAG BY SPENCER MALINSKI
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STYLE DIRECTOR: REESE TIMBERLAKE & XIMENA MARQUEZ MODEL: SHARON GASKILL
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COVER UP DARLING make your mask in tulle
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Written by Ximena Marquez
WE WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO KNOW OUR TRUE SELVES.
WE WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO SHOW OUR TRUE SELVES.
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THIS PAGE: DRESS BY H&M OPPOSITE PAGE: TSHIRT BY EVERLANE
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I would rather expose my body than bare my soul... -124-
sometimes, I’m even scared to expose my own soul to myself.
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TSHIRT BY EVERLANE UNDERWEAR MODEL’S OWN
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THIS PAGE: DRESS BY ASOS OPPOSITE PAGE: VEIL STYLIST’S OWN
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BOTH PAGES: VEIL STYLIST’S OWN STYLE DIRECTOR: RACHEL SCAFFE MODEL: MORGAN MARZULLI MAKEUP ARTIST: MADDI PONKO
WE ARE PROGRAMMED to build a wall around us and hide until the day we die. WE ARE DESTINED to die alone, because really, who truly knows you? -129-
TOP BY TENIELLE ADDERLY
Photographed by Harrison Albert Written by Rachel Scaffe
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THE BOXCAR CHILD
The Tenielle Adderley Collection
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It all starts with a white T according to Tanielle Adderley. Focusing on the deconstruction part of a garment, Adderley wanted to relay the idea of recycled materials, mainly car parts. Grabbing inspiration from past happenings is a big passion of Adderley’s. Vintage clothing and anything with a rustic feel is a big tell of her design aesthetic.
With the T-shirt and the car it cleaned in mind, Adderley next turned to technology. Inspired by the new wave of 3-D printing, she incorporated 3-D printed hardware into the collar of her top. This project is broken up into three sections, and this is the first portion entitled “A-Ron”. Adderley adds, “I wanted to base these garments off men that I know or have worked with.”
This collection started out as a deconstruction of a single tee. “I was told to find a shirt and research its background,” she says. This led her to a T-shirt all the way from Austin, Texas, which was owned, in its first life, by an Austin native, and in its second life, was used as a car cleaning rag. That sparked inspiration to design a piece off of car parts, and the Industrial Revolution.
When it came to shooting the pieces, the train museum seemed the perfect fit, with its mixture of warm and industrial tones. Overall, Adderley says, “I think this collection definitely revealed to me that I love grabbing inspiration from past happenings. I love vintage inspired clothing and the beautiful rustic feel you get when you pair a few hues of browns and oranges together with a minimalist black or white.” She adds that she will also continue to work with and manipulate 3-D printing techniques in future projects. So, the T-shirt comes full circle, with a new spin. May all our clothes live to see such a long and happy life.
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PANTS BY TENIELLE ADDERLY
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SO, THE T-SHIRT COMES FULL CIRCLE.
May all our clothes live to see such a long and happy life.
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PANTS BY TENIELLE ADDERLY
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OUTFIT BY TENIELLE ADDERLY
STYLIST: TENIELLE ADDERLEY MODEL: NICK LINTNER
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WORLDVIEW
Written by Ximena Marquez I grew up in a society where being different was not acceptable at all. Mexico is a place where change or diversity is not very welcome, even when the culture is so rich and varied. I was content with this, being that this was all I knew; as the old saying says, ignorance is bliss. One day, I was uprooted from everything I knew and was transported to a new world where, although it has its flaws, diversity is more accepted than I’d ever experienced. I was then exposed to different races, religions, sexual preferences, and anything anyone can ever think of. It is true to say that I am no longer the same big city girl that moved to a small town in Florida. Being exposed to two different cultures – Mexican and American – has formed me into who I am. My point of view has broadened and I do not feel the need to hide my true self anymore – basically, I can now be wearing black nail polish and not feel judgment falling upon me right away. I now understand why everyone is different and how perfectly okay it is to not fit in a tight mold that society wants you to fit into. This is why I believe that to be able to gain a true worldview, everyone should live in a foreign country for at least a year. Exposing one’s mind to different cultures is key to becoming more accepting of everyone and everything around us.
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BASQUIAT’S: THE UNKNOWN NOTEBOOKS IN BROOKLYN APRIL 3, 2015 - AUGUST 23 2015 ADMISSION TO BROOKLYN MUSEUM IS $16 FOR ADULTS, $10 FOR STUDENTS AND SENIOR CITIZENS MUSEUM HOURS: MON - TUES, CLOSED / WED, 11 AM - 6 PM / THURSDAY 11 AM - 10 PM / FRI,SAT,SUN, 11 AM - 6 PM JEAN MICHEL BASQUIAT
BASQUIATS: THE UNKNOWN NOTEBOOKS IN BROOKLYN IS ORGANIZED BY BY THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM AND IS CURATED BY DIETER BUCHHART, GUEST CURATOR, WITH TRICIA LAUGHLIN BLOOM, FORMER ASSOCIATE CURATOR OF EXHIBITIONS, BROOKLYN MUSEUM. A FULLY ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE ACCOMPANIES THE EXHIBITION -139-
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