Pruning Citrus Trees for Home Landscapes Citrus trees do not require a lot of pruning. Most of the pruning focuses on removing wood (branches and shoots) that are broken, dead, weak or crossing another branch. Of all the fruit trees, citrus is perhaps one of the easiest to prune. Start the pruning at the bottom and work your way up into the tree. Starting at the bottom of a tree ensures that the architecture of the tree is sound before other issues in the canopy are addressed. Primary scaffold limbs arise from the trunk and need to be strong enough to support the weight of other limbs and a fruit load. There should be no more than 6 primary limbs rising from the trunk radiating like spokes on a wheel. The other secondary limbs must be strong enough to support a good fruit load.
The Do’s of Pruning Citrus
Prune with sharp, sanitized and sterilized pruning equipment. Prune after the coldest weather has passed from February through April. Remove strong and vigorously growing vertical (upward) growth from the trunk, the base of the trunk and limbs (upward or downward). Leave no stubs. Remove strong vertical growth (suckers) from the base of the tree. Leave no stub. Remove broken or damaged shoots or limbs. Leave no stubs. Remove one of the shoots if two shoots are very close together or crossing. Leave no stubs. Remove undesirable or weak growth as soon as you see it. You can do this any time during the year. Remove soft and succulent new growth from the tree by pulling it down. You do not need to cut very soft, succulent growth.
The Don'ts of Pruning Citrus Trees
Don't remove excessive amounts of wood from the canopy. This will lead toward sunburn damage to the limbs and trunk. Don't leave stubs when pruning. Make the smallest pruning cut possible but do it as close to the supporting limb or trunk as possible. This will encourage faster healing Don't use pruning paints on cut limbs. Let them heal naturally.
Controlling the Size of Citrus Trees Keeping fruit trees small should be the goal when trees are incorporated into home landscapes. Keeping fruit trees smaller makes it easier for the homeowner to prune, spray, thin and harvest the fruit.
Lowering the height of a deciduous tree with a thinning cut.
After trees are pruned for size control and the basic tree architecture is secure, then pruning to encourage production begins. When pruning one must know where and how to make pruning cuts.
Two Types of Pruning Cuts There are two types of pruning cuts you can make: thinning cuts and heading cuts. Thinning cuts are made anywhere where two branches come together. The thinning cut totally removes one of the branches without leaving a stub. Thinning cuts result in a more open canopy and allows more light penetration. About 90% of all of the pruning cuts made will be thinning cuts. Thinning cuts are used to decrease the heights of citrus trees and generally restrict their overall size. In the process of decreasing a tree’s height, the tallest limb or limbs is identified and removed at a juncture of two limbs. The removal of the larger limb leaves the shorter of two remaining. The remaining shorter limb takes over the growth but at much reduced tree size. The location where a limb is removed could potentially be at several junctures inside the canopy. The best location results in a smaller tree which still provides shade to interior fruit. If the canopy width needs to be reduced, thinning cuts can be made somewhere inside the periphery of the canopy using the same technique. Limbs that do not support fruit high enough to keep it off of the ground or out of the reach of animals are removed with thinning cuts. Limbs that are heavily shaded or supporting fruit in hard-to-reach places is also removed with thinning cuts. Heading cuts are made anywhere along a branch NOT at a location where two branches come together. One heading cut will result in three new branches below the cut. Heading cuts are made Ÿ inch above a bud pointed in a desirable direction. Heading cuts increase the density of the canopy and result in more shading. Heading cuts are used to shorten excessively long growth and increase limb strength. The most productive branches for fruit growth and development are at 45 degree angles above horizontal and should be preserved whenever possible. Branches which grow more upright or downward than this are less productive.
A heading cut results in the development of multiple side shoots and increasing density.
Steps in Controlling Size 1. Make a decision about the desired height of your citrus trees. Give yourself some flexibility. If you select 7 feet, then make thinning cuts between 6 and 7 feet. 2. Make a decision about the desired width of your citrus tree. At the periphery of the canopy select branches that need to be reduced in length. Remove branches that are too long by making thinning cuts inside the canopy. 3. Very large trees must be brought to a desired size by gradually reducing the size, successively, over several years. Š 2012 California Citrus State Historic Park NPMC California State Parks does not discriminate against individuals with disabilities. Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who need assistance should contact (951) 780-6222. Office: 1879 Jackson St., Riverside, CA 92504 Resource and credit: Robert L. Morris, Emeritus Associate Prof. and Horticulture Specialist at University of Nevada