'The Y' Yachting Itineraries 2022/23 - by Estela Superyacht Agency

MÁLAGA

In our Andalusia itinerary of

2018, we touched on Málaga’s emergence as a burgeoning cultural centre. The 3,000 year-old city has a long, colourful history, of course, and Pablo Picasso’s birthplace has always had its fair share of museums and arts venues. As a candidate city to host EXPO2027, Málaga has poured a great deal of investment into its tourism infrastructure, and it shows.

Mention the ‘Soho district’ or the ‘Pompidou centre’ and you’d think we’re talking about London, Paris or New York, but Málaga has both. This is a vibrant Mediterranean city that is now frequently mentioned in the same breath as Madrid and Barcelona.

The city is going from strength to strength, underscored by a brand new superyacht marina, operated by IGY

Marinas, opened in April 2022. So, it is timely to revisit Málaga and delve into everything the city has to offer as a destination in its own right, with a full one- or two-day programme that has something for everyone. 


OLD TOWN

The labyrinthian Centro Histórico is mostly pedestrianised, making the old town a delight to explore on foot. It’s an atmospheric warren of cobbled streets and squares, lined with attractive buildings, shops and cafés. The smartest shopping avenue in town is Calle Marqués de Larios, which feels upscale, but stores are more High Street than Bond Street. It leads to Plaza de la Constitución, a grand square with central fountain that is one of the city’s focal points.

Nearby stands the cathedral, affectionately

known as ‘La Manquita’, or the onearmed lady. Construction finished in the late 18th century when the budget ran out, before the second bell tower could be added. Built on the site of a former mosque, its original courtyard ‘Patio de los Naranjos’ remains, planted with customary orange trees. Guided tours include a 200-step climb to the roof, with views across the city.

Parque de la Alameda is a peaceful city retreat with more than 360 varieties of plants and flowers, statues, fountains and bird life, making a lovely spot for a walk and to take in the local atmosphere. Lovers of botanical gardens should head 5km north of the city to Jardín Botánico Histórico La Concepción, which contains the largest collection of subtropical plants in Europe. The gardens are a little off the beaten track, but it is a tropical oasis of fountains and waterfalls among

a huge range of palm trees, bamboo and exotic plants.

Mercado Central de Atarazanas is an indoor fresh food market, offering a dazzling array of local produce, as well as cafés and tapas bars to sample some of the delicacies on offer. The market is on the tourist trail, so it can get busy. The best churros and coffee in town are at Casa Aranda next door.

For a more authentic market experience, or for chefs looking for provisions, head for Mercado El Carmen, near María Zambrano station. The El Perchel neighbourhood, outside the city walls, is named after the hangers used by fishermen to dry fish. The building is less ornate, but merchants will cook your selection on the spot and you can enjoy the freshest tapas on the terrace outside. A short guided visit to Teatro

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Romano, a Roman amphitheatre, is highly recommended, also taking in La Alcazaba next door. The theatre, from the first century CE, was uncovered in 1951, ironically while digging the foundations for a new cultural centre. The 11th century Moorish palace-fortress was built by the Hammudid dynasty, and is almost like the Alhambra in miniature. Its typical Al-Andalus style arched doorways and lush manicured gardens, patios, ponds and fountains provide a glimpse of life in a grand Arab palace.

Overlooking La Alcazaba and the surrounding area is Gibralfaro Castle, a pleasant 25-minute walk up a winding path. The fort was built in the first century CE by the Caliph of Cordoba, on a former Phoenician enclosure. The Sultan of Granada

enlarged it in the 14th century, to house troops charged with protecting the palace, adding two lines of walls and eight watch towers. There is a small museum with various military paraphernalia and depictions of daily life in the castle.

The liveliest time to visit Málaga is during Holy Week, in the lead up to Easter. Over the course of the week, some 40 religious processions pass through the centre in a colourful spectacle. The celebrations start in the afternoon and, in true Spanish tradition, continue well into the early hours of the morning. Alameda Principal, Calle Larios and Calle Granada are the best places to watch them. If you are intending to visit around Easter, plan ahead, as the city gets very busy, with berths and restaurants booked up long in advance.

SOHO

In sharp contrast with Málaga’s ancient architecture is the Soho barrio, including the MAUS (Málaga Arte Urbano Soho) street art district. Here, giant murals adorn the walls of numerous buildings and tower blocks in what was a drab part of the city, near the commercial docks. What started as a one-off project in 2013 has become a vibrant, bohemian part of town, filled with hipster cafes and flea markets, drawing renowned graffiti artists from far and wide.

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Scan the QR code for an interactive MAUS map, directing visitors to the most notable works.

MUSEUMS

While Pablo Picasso may have left his heart in Barcelona, he had expressed his desire for a permanent exhibition here. Opened 20 years ago, with the endorsement of his family, Museo Picasso Málaga holds a permanent collection spanning eight decades, comprising 220 works by the artist. The Museum is set in a grand 16th century house and courtyard, displaying a range of canvasses, sketches and sculptures, as well as visiting exhibitions by other modern artists.

To learn more about Picasso

the man, the house in which he was born is also a museum. Museo Casa Natal de Picasso is just a five-minute walk away, not far from MAUS. Full of photographs and memorabilia, it documents his upbringing from childhood to world famous artist. There is also a mock-up of his father’s studio. The museum is managed by Fundación Picasso, which also operates the Sala de Exposiciones, across the square, with more works by Picasso and other contemporaries. The Carmen Thyssen Museum

important museum in the region and among the largest in Spain, filled with archaeological finds and 19th century Andalusian fine art. The renovated Palacio de Aduana building is worth visiting, with its peaceful patio garden and tall palms.

Museo Ruso de Málaga is a branch of the Russian State Museum in St Petersburg, with an annually rotating exhibition of a vast collection of Russian art. Famous names include Marc Chagall, Wassily Kandinsky and Ilya Repin, while exhibits also offer a great insight into Russian history and culture.

is a sister gallery to the Thyssen- Bornemisza Museum in Madrid and centres around a large collection of Andalucian and 19th century Spanish paintings. Set in Palacio Villalón, a 16th century noble home with beautiful arched ceilings, the museum also hosts a wide variety of visiting exhibitions.

Next to the cathedral is ARS Málaga, a museum space with religious art, coins and temporary exhibitions. Housed in the Bishop’s Palace, the building alone is worth a glance for its ornately decorated interior, as is the garden. Museo de Málaga is the most

The Centre Pompidou Málaga is the first foreign branch of the Parisian institution, set in a lowslung building ‘El Cubo’, for the striking, multicoloured glass cube on its roof. Opened in 2015, rotating contemporary exhibitions include works by the likes of Bacon, Kahlo, Ernst and Picasso.

i If it seems as though Picasso’s works are everywhere, note that the artist is estimated to have produced some 50,000 works in his lifetime; more than any major artist.

Centro de Arte Contemporáneo, or CAC Málaga, is located in a converted Wholesalers’ Market on the river bank,

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containing radical contemporary pieces and installations designed to provoke. Museo Revello de Toro is a small museum dedicated to the work of Málaga artist Félix Revello de Toro, renowned for his striking portraits in oil. The museum is housed in the 17th century home of religious sculptor Pedro de Mena, whose workshop remains on display.

Set in a stunning 18th century palatial house, with no less than three patios, is the glass museum, Museo del Vidrio y Cristal. Housing more than a thousand items of glass and crystal, as well as antiques and carpets, it is the private collection of aristo, Gonzalo Fernández-Prieto. The art historian

made his money in London’s febrile property market of the 80s and 90s, enabling him to indulge his passion for glass and ancient artefacts.

An unusual, but inspired, attraction is the Museo Automovilistico & de la Moda, or MAM. Set in a former tobacco factory, the museum marries cars and fashion, in a combination that seems odd, but works exceedingly well. It houses around a hundred immaculately restored vehicles and more than 300 pieces of haute couture, chronicling their evolution from the end of the 19th century to the current day. Exhibits include a 1898 ‘Winner’, a 1910 steam car, an aeroplane car, a 2010 hydrogen

prototype and a solar car, as well as classics by Jaguar, Bugatti, Rolls Royce, Aston Martin, Mercedes, Porsche and Ferrari. Matching fashions are from Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Givenchy, accompanied by hats and accessories.

The newest addition to Málaga’s long list of museums (and we haven’t listed them all!) is the Museum of the Imagination. This interactive space is especially recommended for families, with many scientific and optical illusions to try out. Bringing a camera

is encouraged, enabling you to take some fun and highly unusual photos to share.

Another favourite with youngsters is the interactive music museum, or MIMMA. Its walls are adorned with many unusual instruments from around the world, taking you on a musical journey, from the bongo drums of Africa to guitars of Andalucía. As well as viewing some fascinating exhibits, visitors are welcome to play many of them. The venue also hosts flamenco shows in the afternoon.

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To learn more about flamenco, head to Peña Juan Breva, a flamenco club and museum over two floors. While flamenco is most associated with Seville, Málaga has its own illustrious music and dance heritage. See an impressive collection of photographs, posters, costumes, fans and instruments, then head down to the tablao, or stage, for a close up demonstration. For an evening of flamenco and drinks, Kelipé is the best venue in town. It is tiny and no-frills, but with top performers on stage Thursday to Sunday.

For performing arts, Málaga is home to no less than seven theatres, staging operatic and classical productions, as well as contemporary music and dance.

IGY MALAGA MARINA

Opened in April 2022, IGY Malaga Marina is a brand new superyacht facility for 31 yachts between 20m and 180m, with a depth of 9m, able to receive the largest of motor and sailing yachts.


For more information, scan the QR code or contact Óscar Calero on +34 699 989 631, or email oscar.calero@ igymarinas.com. Visit igymarinas.com for details of IGY’s global network.

The Málaga waterfront has undergone a transformation in recent years, with the opening of the Pompidou Centre and a pedestrian boulevard, Muelle 1, with boutiques, bars and restaurants.

The latest addition is Muelle 2, a futuristic canopied walkway and park, ‘Palmeral de las Sorpresas’, making an attractive spot for a walk or a run, starting here and along the city beaches.

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OLD HAUNTS


For an altogether more rustic experience, visit Antigua Casa de Guardia, the oldest bar in Málaga that once counted Picasso among its regulars, so the legend goes. True or not, grumpy staff will draw your wine or tipple directly from the stacked oak barrels behind the bar, chalking up your bill on the well worn wooden counter. Basic tapas are available too. It’s an unforgettable little place and an Instagram must, of course (antiguacasadeguardia.com)

Another renowned old haunt is El Pimpi, set in a labyrinthian warren of rooms in an 18th century house. Part-owned by famous ‘malagueño’, the actor Antonio Banderas, this local

favourite has been open since 1971, with the great and the good having graced its tables. Wine barrels are autographed by famous visitors and while service can be hit and miss, for atmosphere this place is hard to beat. The terrace has views of La Alcazaba, while the courtyard patio is particularly lovely (elpimpi.com).

If you’re thirsty after visiting Museu Picasso, tea lovers should seek out La Tetería, a Moroccan tea room in a narrow side street nearby. It is reminiscent of the city’s Moorish heritage with colourful lampshades, ornate teapots and a large selection of teas and homemade cakes and baklava.

DINING OUT

Andalucians are proud of their produce and food heritage, so good restaurants are to be found all over town. Here are some of the best.

José Carlos García*

+34 952 00 35 88 restaurantejcg.com

Ta-Kumi

+34 952 06 00 79 restaurantetakumi.com

Conveniently located directly next to IGY Malaga Marina, this is the city’s sole Michelin-starred restaurant with a large outdoor terrace, serving innovative cuisine using mostly local ingredients.

Kaleja


+34 952 60 00 00 restaurantekaleja.com

In a quiet side street in the old Jewish quarter is this unassuming restaurant, with a minimalist, modern interior. Classic countryside dishes are reinterpreted and presented in a single menu of 16 immaculately sculpted, small courses.

Adjacent to La Alcazaba, Ta-Kumi is the Málaga branch of its sister restaurant in Marbella, serving first class Japanese dishes à la carte or in set menus. On a fine day, request a seat on the terrace overlooking the palace.

Balausta

+34 952 21 60 00 restaurantebalausta.com

Set in a beautifully restored 18th century palatial house in the old Jewish quarter, the kitchen at the boutique Palacio Solecio hotel is overseen by the Michelin-starred José Carlos García. Serving unfussy 0km cuisine in a stunning atrium space.

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