Lashes

Page 1

UNIT X PORTFOLIO Jana Olehno

Workshop and task based on the slogans and protests, subject could be anything. We worked in the group of 2-3 people, the idea was to find the most specific modern problem which a negative effect on us and environment. Our group did aggressive advertising on the packaging, as water bottle and bag of crisps. The idea was to stop littering on the streets, public transport and public places. Aggressive slogans could make people feel bad and change their view point about what they do with environmen

STUDIO DUMBAR WORKSHOP We used abusive words that could hurt consumers, but by this way we tried to show our attitude toward them and did not even mind to hurt them. The leaf effect on the packing, it was my idea to replace original colourful packing to the leaf natural picture, because most of the litter are on the streets between leafs –the idea was even if people still will carry on litter outside at least it will be less visible on the streets because of the same colour effect as the real leafs are.

Rochstrabe 8, 10178 Berlin, Germany / Date Opening: 27.05.16

Rochstrabe 8, 10178 27.05.16

Rochstrabe 8, 10178 Berlin, Germany Date Opening: 27.05.16

TOPMAN

Brief for the Topman campaign was for the new store in the Berlin, German. It was open brief, all ideas are welcome, and my idea was simple and minimal. I had inspiration of minimal Berlin, their culture and most famous Staatliches Bauhaus, commonly known simply as Bauhaus, was an art school in Germany that combined crafts and the fine arts, and was famous for the approach to design that it publicised and taught. It was starting point of the research and experimentation. All my works (5 pieces) are in black/white colour showing minimalism and simplicity of the design. The most important thing in each work is threads – the idea was to shoe new connection between stores. I think it was one of successful project in the whole unit.

Rochstrabe 8, 10178 Berlin, Germany

BERLIN Rochstrabe 8, 10178 27.05.16

X MAGAZINE

There are many injustices in this world we live in, many women silently suffering. You may have faced these traumas yourself. When the underwire pops out of your bra for instance, and incessantly pokes you in the boob all day. Or when one of the straps snap on your oldest, comfiest bra. Or when both of these things happen on the same day, an hour into your nine-hour shift, you have no safety pins and are left being stabbed in one boob all day, with the other one freestyling it. Things like this we can all relate to, of course.

Issue 1

ÂŁ5/$7

In our civilisation, bras cause problems for women everywhere, everyday. These issues go unmentioned by society, women’s cries of pain silenced, their suffering unheard. So now we are fighting back, taking these pains and dragging them into the light, and showing you there is something you can do to fix them. You have a voice. This is Lashes.

CONTENTS

BRA FITTING EXPERIENCE

British Home Stores

Ok, it’s been a year since I was last measured for a bra, so in the name of science (and properly supported boobs) I decided to go get fitted in five different shops and see which was the best.

The first issue at BHS was actually finding a “bra fitter�. I use the quotation marks because I know, as a former employee, that the bra fit training there is rudimentary. I was awful at measuring people myself (excellent at apologising though). Someone please either train the staff properly or just stop offering the service. When taken to a fitting room (please refurbish these) I was directed to raise my arms and place my hands flat against the wall. I thought I’d accidentally stumbled into a police station and was about to be frisked for weapons. This was not part of my bra fit training. After being asked my current bra size and measured, Fitter One exclaimed: “Ah I’m no good at this!� and wandered off to get Fitter Two. I faced my second full body search and was informed I was a 34B or C. Then she left. That was it. At least, I think it was. She didn’t actually tell me we were done. Please understand, I went in for the fitting with three other people. She brought them all bras to try on. No one even asked me if I wanted to try any. I was left to toddle out, bemused and deflated (apparently literally, by two cup sizes) so I couldn’t even tell you how the bra size she recommended actually fit. She was friendly at least.

M&S

1 2 SURVEYS & INTERVIEWS

3 4

EXPERIENCES

BRATICLES

HACKS & GUIDES

15/ how to measure your bra

09/ your views

07/

11/ weird bras

19/ mens corner

23/

31/ bra history

25/ your views 2 37/ your views 3

Conclusion: Have more staff available? Ann Summers The fitting room wallpaper was‌ interesting, and a little tag informed me you can buy it. Don’t think I’ll be putting it up in my room myself but each to their own. The “measuringâ€? was all done by eye. Personally I prefer a more mathematical evaluation, with some sign of a tape measure, but I’m shit at bra fitting so who am I to talk? She told me my current bra’s straps were too loose (true) and my cup was too big (also true though I hadn’t noticed) and headed off to get me a smaller size. The resulting C cup “fit me a lot betterâ€? and it was nice actually because it felt like my boobs were getting a hug. A nice, cosy hug from a reticulated python. I later found out she’d told one of my friends the sizes there came up a bit smaller than other shops which supports my own conclusion that I should still have been in a D cup but I don’t know. I did always wonder why other women were so keen to take their bras off as soon as they got home. If that’s what a “better fitâ€? is like, I finally get it.

27/ bra underwire hack

29/ 39/

WHAT TYPE OF BRA DO YOU WEAR THE MOST?

8%

Having been before, I was aware that you usually have to book in advance to be seen at Marks and Sparks so I didn't think I’d get a fitting. I didn’t get a fitting. There’s a lesson in there for you, I’m always right.

I was wearing: Oddly enough, still a 32D. I was measured at: 32C. Conclusion: Maybe since it was a push up but “better fit� here = melon masher. Boux Avenue Boux was great. I’d expected good service from the self-proclaimed “bra fitting experts� and I wasn’t let down. I was measured by the nicest bra fitter I’ve ever met (there wasn’t a huge amount of competition for this title but you get my point). She asked me when my last fitting was (I didn’t mention it was ten minutes ago), where it was, what size I was wearing and how it felt. Then she got out her tape measure (wahey! An actual tape measure!) to work out my size. She had me take a big breath in and out while she measured me to make sure the bra wouldn’t suffocate me during the day (take note Ann Summers, maybe if you used a tape measure that wouldn’t happen). I’d mentioned the

loose straps so she recommended I look for fully adjustable instead of the semi adjustable I had on. Then she asked if there were any I’d seen that I liked on the shop floor and after I described (badly) the one I wanted to try, she returned with it. Typically, it was only a semi adjustable strap but I tried it anyway and it was a much better fit than what I was wearing and the straps turned out not to be a problem. The cups fit better too, despite the fact she’d measured me at the same size. None of the gaping of my current bra or the death grip of the Ann Summers option. At the end of my fitting she even wrote down all the information for me on a little card to take away. And in the time it’s taken me to write this article, I’ve convinced myself to buy more bras. I am weak and the bras are pretty. I was wearing: Surprise! It’s a 32D. I was measured at: 32D. Conclusion: I’m on the website now. This is why students are poor.

I was wearing: You’ll never guess. It was a 32D. I was measured at: 34B/C? Who knows? Maybe if she’d got me some to try on we could have found out. Conclusion: I was not carrying any weapons under my clothes. In summary: Who knows what size I am? Pretty sure it wasn’t a 34B though.

WHICH SHOP DO YOU BUY BRAS FROM THE MOST?

17%

11%

other

plunge

16%

other

13%

16%

supermarket (F+F, TU, George etc.)

primark

balconette

12% non-wired

24%

7%

M&S

padded

7% bralette

10% push-up

5% sports bra

7% ann summers

27% T-Shirt

How to measure your bra

First off, you need to measure your back size. To do this, wrap a tape measure round the base of your bra. Make sure it’s pulled quite tight but you can still take a deep breath. Take the measurement in inches.

Here’s where it gets a tad complex. If your measurement was an even number, add four to it. If it’s odd add Ă€YH $QG WKDW¡V KRZ WR ZRUN RXW \RXU back size. So say you measured at 35â€? your back size is a 40. Or if you were 36â€? you’re also a 40 back. If you were 28â€? you’re a 32 and so on.

Now for your cups. Cup size should be measured at the widest part of your bust. When you’ve found out your measurement, you need to compare it to the back size that you’ve just worked out. If it’s the VDPH \RX¡UH DQ $ DQG IRU HYHU\ inch bigger, you’re a bigger cup size. So taking the last example we just worked out was a 40. If her chest ZDV Âľ VKH¡G EH DQ $ FXS Âľ DQG she’d be a B, 42â€? a C and so on. You get the idea with that.

4% 6%

10%

victoria secret

H&M

boux avenue

I have gotten the idea to learn how to make lingerie when I realised that I simply can’t afford buying the pretty stuff myself. I have just bought a sewing machine and knew how to use one since I was a little girl. It was never about making proper bras for me, only simple bralettes. At that time they were nowhere to be found in shops, only later they started appearing here and there and now are a part of the main stream fashion market. I really enjoyed it as a hobby making simple lingerie is much easier and faster than making clothes and you get play around with hundreds of different fabrics and colours. My schedule is really busy, lingerie making is only a hobby and I wish I had more time on my hands to develop my skills further and come out with new sets for me and my friends. I have a few ideas for conceptual pieces that would also work for everyday life that I want to invest myself in in future. I like the idea of using lingerie as a manifestation of female empowerment, as opposed to the image of lingerie being a tool for female REMHFWLÀFDWLRQ 6R IDU , KDYH PDGH RQO\ RQH complete set of lingerie and have started numerous other projects, hopefully soon I can come back to them.

Would you say you often think about bras? What do you think about them? I don't frequently think about bras. Only momentarily when someone mentions them. They seem too expensive. And some women don't seem to understand others need them, along with many men. Do you know how many types of bras there are? Sports bras, strapless, strapped, push up, padded, super support bras and that's about it. There are probably more types. Oh and some have wire in. Do you know what women look for in a bra? Depends on individual women. Some want ones that make their boobs look bigger or pushed further up. Others want bras that give support due to bigger boobs. Not sure what else. Probably all want comfy ones, and often pretty ones. If you had to buy a woman a bra, would you know what to get? How would you go about it? I'd have a pretty good idea of what to get for my girlfriend. I wouldn't know for anyone else so I'd ask for very precise details. Then I'd go to the specified shop and ask an assistant for help so I am not a lone male staring at bras in a shop. Then buy in colour she dislikes as revenge for putting me through that. Unless it was some kind of bra emergency, then I'd be nice.

$JDWD 0DOXKLQD *ODVJRZ 6FKRRO RI $UW

(Matt, aged 22)

$QG WKHUH \RX KDYH LW <ou now know your bra size. Of course, as we all know, the trials of shopping IRU EUDV GRQ¡W HQG WKHUH $V ZLWK DOO women’s clothes, bra sizes will vary from shop to shop. Though the tape measure may tell you you’re a 38DD, DQG D EUD WKDW VL]H LQ + 0 PLJKW Ă€W you perfectly, one in Primark could leave a gap like The Grand Canyon. (See our article ‘The Perfect Fit’). Still, having an idea of the size you are will help you a lot in knowing what to look for and ordering online.

MEN’S CORNER

BRA FITTING EXPERIENCE I’ve had only one bra fitting in my 20 years of being a woman. Now I’ve learnt that between the ages of 13 and 20, boobs can and will grow, so wearing the exact same bra size for going on 8 years is not the best way to treat my ladies. I guess after all the things going on in my life, I didn’t once think about my boobs getting bigger or needing a new bra, I just presumed that they were meant to feel tight and uncomfortable. I was used to it so I just shrugged it off. So I finally decided to do something about it. I went to get bra fittings in different shops to see which was the best and find out what size I actually should be wearing. Ann Summers Original size: 34B New size: 36C The fitting room here was fairly small, but the erotic vintage wallpaper was amusing, featuring a number of different sexual positions, which was fitting for the store. After telling the fitter my current size was a 34B, she practically screamed “No, no, no, that’s not right at all Honeyâ€?, exclaiming I needed a bigger size. You can imagine her horror as I informed her that I have been wearing that size my whole life. I wasn’t sure if she was going to hit me or pass out. I can only imagine what it was like for a bra fitter to hear how terribly my boobs had been mistreated and neglected. Although it was clear I needed a bigger size, instead of using measuring tape she ‘measured’ my cup/bust by eye. She said to try a 36C first to see if it was better. It all seemed very vague‌but after trying the bra she brought, I noticed the difference straight away.

My boobs were holstered in the most amazing, well fitting, glorious boob holder I had ever worn. When I put my old bra back on to leave, I think I actually heard my boobs say “shit�. It wasn’t until then that I realized how awful my situation had been.

WHAT’S THE WORST THING ABOUT BRAS?

6%

28%

other

uncomfortable

23%

other

affordability

Boux Avenue

It was big group project, based on the publications. It was new experience in my practise so far; I been involved in all process and work in general. It was coloration between illustrator and graphic design students.

13%

Original size: 34B New size: 36C Boux Avenue are classed as bra-fitting experts, which was clear from the word go. She was really friendly and took me to a very pretty and spacious fitting room. Firstly, she asked a few questions: when my last bra fitting was, where it was, what size bra I was wearing etc. Very similar to last time, once she saw my bra on she was horrified at the size I was wearing and went straight into the measuring, WITH an actual measuring tape! She made me hold the tops of my bra whilst breathing in and out deeply 3 or 4 times in order to measure the bust. A pretty nifty way to figure it out really, and make sure that my tits wouldn’t be strapped against my chest like a boob straight jacket. She figured out I’d be a 36 bust and either a B or C cup. Then she asked me if there were any bras that I’d like to try on. I just panicked and said a turquoise one would do. She came back with a bra in the B and the C. It was pretty as fuck, turqouise and lacy, my perfect bra. I tried the 36C first and it fit perfectly, my boobs felt like they were floating. When I put my old bra back on again to leave, I realized even more how awful my current bra situation was. How I

WHAT ARE YOU DRAWN TO IN A BRA THE MOST?

9%

never in your size

coped for all this time I really don’t know. At the end, the fitter also wrote out a few things on a little card for me: her name, my size, what bra I tried on and what bras would suit me, each followed by a love heart. It was all very sweet and really lived up to the name. Now I want to buy pretty much every single bra they sell. BHS Original size: 34B New size: 38B, C or D? 40B? 36C? Who knows? BHS are a perfect example of what not to do in a bra fitting. Firstly, there really wasn’t such thing as a bra fitter at BHS. After struggling to actually find someone, we eventually located a sales assistant/bra fitter which didn’t really give me the greatest confidence in her ability straight away. It was clear she didn’t know what she was doing as soon as I entered the fitting room, which compared to the previous two was

bland, tatty and downright awful. They really need to refurbish their fitting rooms to make the whole experience of standing in front of a mirror, practically naked, in the most unflattering light known to man, just that little more enjoyable. She had me stood with my top off and my hands flat against the wall above my head while she measured, which was awfully uncomfortable. After this, she did some kind of sum in her head, decided I need a different size, and left to go get me some bras to try on without telling me what size I actually was. She brought about 5 bras back, all different sizes: 36C, 38B, 38C, 38D, and 40B. What she was thinking I don’t know. She obviously had no clue what size I was. I tried a few on, none of which felt right to me, but she decided that the 38B was the best fit. I felt like I had no support at all. If I wore that, it felt like my boobs would be hanging freely there was that much room. I gave up and agreed just so I could leave the terribly awkward situation.

14% no pretty bras for big boos

36%

10%

comfort

underwire stabbing

8% not enough support

8% 10% too tight

straps digging in

35% style

Magazine is about every day woman problems, first issue is about bra and all kind of bra. By the researching for this project, we all found interesting things about bra in general. The idea was to do magazine for different woman age 18-25, to share their own experience and life hacks. Our magazine includes different information, such as survey, interview, photos and illustration. Frankie and The gentlewoman been influenced by this magazines, Frankie gave us idea to mix illustration and photography, but The Gentlewoman stylisation of photography and sophistication.

REFLECTIVE QUESTIONS RESEARCH What are the key influences you have identified out of your research? And why? At the beginning of the unitX , I’ve done quit big research about Graphic Design in general, and found louds of interesting information such as visuals and written. But the biggest influence I’ve got from Dumbar Studio (Holland) lecture and work shop, they work not in the style which I would work –but how they work with enthusiasm and professionalism they apply to their work. It was for me kind of kick and pushes to myself to work harder and do it my works more professional, plus they every day spend in art and design industry and it’s what is their life style about. Also, can’t leave without attention Hey Studio form Barcelona, the brave young woman who opened her own studio inspired me so much. The works which they do every day are very specific and professional; she shared with us many useful key elements and how to work in the industry. Those kinds of lecture are really useful, imperative and move on the next level of knowledge about the industry. INVESTIGATIONS Creative responses. Identify aspects of the projects that you developed Further in line with your own creative practice. I developed many experiments, such as mix media, photography ideas. In the end I came up with big pail of illustrations. I done illustration based on the colour theme which we picked, and on the main idea and subject of the magazine and Topman too. To be honest, I’ve haven’t done something new, I just done illustrations in my own style and this is my strength to create simple and smooth illustrations. They fitted very well in all Graphic Design projects that mean I can work in the two areas. By this unit, I realized how quickly I am able to work within short amount of time, on the high standard; however is still not enough to present all them in portfolio. REFLECTION Reflect upon your engagement with each aspect the unit. I was involved in the each project, how I noticed earlier me as illustrator worked well and successfully developed big amount of work in both areas. Unit showed helped me to understand who I am in the industry; I still need to work a lot on quality of my works and IT skills. I can work in the both areas, my creativity helping me with illustration and design skills and ideas helping develop strong works and concepts. I can clearly say that I was involved in every single project in this unit, I never looked behind always was confident in what I am doing.

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