WILL MOSES

small and family-owned, despite the ubiquity of those bright-blue Wyman’s bags in the frozen-foods aisle. So careful management is key. As Flanagan puts it, “We were doing this sustainability thing before we knew what the word meant.”

One major focus: funding research into honeybee preservation with Penn State and the University of Maine to understand the cause of colony-collapse disorder, and speaking out on the importance of pollinators to the U.S. food system. Because without pollinators, there would be no blueberries. And without blueberries, an essential culture would be lost. For farmers like Donny Jordan, it’s unthinkable. He’s retired now, after 40 years in the barrens. “But if I were 16,” he says, “I’d be right back there.”

If traveling to Maine isn’t on your itinerary, try these summer recipes, from classics like Blueberry Cobbler and Blueberry Molasses Cake to showstoppers like Blueberry Dutch-Baby, Blueberry Buttermilk Tart, and Pavlova with Blueberries & Lime Curd. Measurements are calibrated for the smaller wild blueberries, so if you’re using the larger highbush berries, simply increase the amount by about 25 percent. (For example, 1 cup wild would become 1¼ cups highbush.)

BLUEBERRY DUTCH-BABY

TOTAL TIME : 35 MINUTES ;

HANDS- ON TIME : 15 MINUTES

This oven-baked pancake has the drama of a soufflé without any of the stress. Bring it straight from the oven to the table for all to admire—it will deflate fast but remain slightly puffed and delicious.

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole milk

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/8 teaspoon table salt

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup wild blueberries

(fresh or frozen)

Juice from 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

Preheat your oven to 425° and set a rack to the lower position. Lightly beat the flour, milk, eggs, sugar, salt, and nutmeg. The batter will be a bit lumpy. Melt the butter in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the batter into the heated skillet and sprinkle with blueberries. Place in the oven and bake until golden and puffed, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice and confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately with maple syrup, if desired. Yield: 2 to 4 servings

Blueberry Buttermilk Tart

TOTAL TIME : 3 HOURS ;

HANDS- ON TIME : 45 MINUTES

The everyday elements of this tart are all elevated when married in this beautiful summer dessert. The filling must be chilled ahead of time, so this tart is perfect for making the morning before a dinner party; simply top with fresh blueberries when you’re ready to serve it.

FOR THE CRUST:

2 cups pecan halves

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup firmly packed light-brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon table salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan

FOR THE FILLING:

1 1/2 teaspoons (1 package) gelatin

1 1/2 tablespoons cold water

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups low-fat buttermilk

2 1/2 cups fresh blueberries (wild and highbush both work well here)

Preheat your oven to 350° and set a rack to the lower position. Butter a 10- to 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Set aside.

Make the crust: Pulse the pecans in a food processor until finely ground. Add the flour, brown sugar, and salt, and pulse to combine. Transfer to a