Taryn Ford, Michael Magliochetti, Keleka Mobley, Yasamin Rahmanparast
FASM 310 Professor Canepa
07 INDUSTRY RESEARCH
CONTENTS
07 07 07 08 08 08 09
SCOPE + SIZE AGE RANGE SIZE RANGE UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS WHOLESALE + RETAIL PRICE POINTS QUALITY EXPECTATIONS COMPETITORS
11 MARKET RESEARCH
02 OUR COMPANY 02
OVERVIEW OF MISSION, VISIONS, VALUES, PRODUCT CATEGORY, TARGET MARKET, AND PRICE POINTS
11 12 13 14 15
SALES TRENDS TECHNOLOGICAL TRENDS Leading Manufacturers Market Conditions & Production LABOR COSTS
28
16 TREND RESEARCH
03
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
CUSTOMER RESEARCH
02 INTRODUCTION
05
28
BRANDED MATERIALS
16
01
03 03
BRANDING
DEMOGRAPHICS + PSYCHOGRAPHICS TARGET MARKET ACCORDING TO LOCATION CUSTOMER PROFILES
Finishes, Colors, Treatments for Apparel Tops 17 Newest Styles, Colors, Blends 18 Popular Detail Findings 20 Product Requirements
22 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT 22 23 24 26
CONCEPT BOARD DESIGN BOARD LINE SHEETS LINE PLAN
30 MARKETING + PR 30 32 34 36 38
ADVERTISEMENT + LOOKBOOK FASHION FILM ONLINE PRESENCE MEDIA KIT PRODUCT LAUNCH
41 CONCLUSION
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 01
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 02
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
NOVA a unisex, knitwear brand that was conceived in 2015 by four creative minds.
An industry crowded with static noise offers an opportunity of progressive change. Infinite
Located in the Meatpacking Disctric of New York City, NOVA aims to connect with the artistic,
options of defined roles have created a niche market for those seeking a blurred perspective
non-conformists of the area. Our first collection, a collaboration with textile designer Emily White,
on fashion. NOVA, a brand dedicated to a powerful change within the apparel market, will align
will set the tone for future collaborations and quality achievements ahead.
luxury and neutral territories into one. With a noticeable rise of interest in genderless apparel,
Our goal with this first collection is to penitrate our market successfully and one day
NOVA’s competitive advantages range from sustainability, a unique outlook on innovative textile
branch into further product categories. This goal will be measured through the identification of the
applications, and creative ways of identifying the zeitgeist within the niche market. Through artist
specific factors. These factors include a sell through of 85%, mentions in key fashion magazines,
collaborations, NOVA’s product assortment will reflect an even balance of innovative, tactile
and increasead brand awareness through social media involvement.
artistic elements and minimalistic silhouettes. A group of like-minded individuals who include
Keleka Mobley, Michael Magliochetti, Taryn Ford, and Yasamin Rahmanparast will produce a
The cusumer and market research, depicted throughout this document, highlights the
areas that will ensure that the factors listed above are accomplished. Through the depiciton of
label that will stand out graphically, aesthetically, and exceed in quality. Throughout the duration
trends to concept boards, brand development, and marketing strategies, it will become aparrent
of this document, NOVA’s success will be validated by addressing the consumer, geographic
that NOVA will exceed wtihin the luxury, unisex market.
location, industry and market research, successful PR and marketing strategies, and the key trends that will influence the creation of our product assortment.
OUR COMPANY
NOVA is derived from ‘novaturient’; an adjective meaning, “desiring or seeking powerful
change in one’s life, behavior, or situation.” Our brand offers well-educated, sophisticated members of society edgy, unisex knitwear. Our mission is to promote one’s ability to express one’s self without judgment. Individuality, creativity, and sustainability are the driving forces behind all of our collections. With the level of luxury our brand exudes, our price points will fall between $300 and $2,600. As our brand grows, we see ourselves broaden our product categories into lifestyle pieces.
THE NOVA CUSTOMER
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 03
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 04
CUSTOMER RESEARCH
educated and ethnically mixed. Their education and ethnically-aware backgrounds drive them towards healthy lifestyles, afternoons reading
A. Demographics and Psychographics
in trendy coffee shops, and eclectic clothing boutiques. NOVA’s
The target customer, both male and female, has a median age
target consumers will also extend to two more PRIZM segments
of 29, and resides in urban, metropolitan U.S. cities - most prominently,
targeting tourists and non-residents of zip code 10014. These
New York City. Working in creative industries, such as art direction, each
segments are Urban Achievers and Movers and Shakers.
has an average income of $100,000 or more annually, according to
The Urban Achievers include tourists to the area who are notably
Salary.com. The customer is well-educated with a Bachelor’s degree
ethnically-diverse as about one-third are foreign-born and speak
or higher. Local competitors include Band of Outsiders, Public School,
more than one language. Lastly, the Movers and Shakers will be
and Opening Ceremony while the luxury competitors include Rad
the oldest segment in our target market. This segment includes
Horani and Alexandre Plokhov (Cunningham). The NOVA customer
professionals in their thirties who live in suburban locations. They
shops at the introduction stage of the fashion cycle (Guthrie and Regni 8-9). Ideals and self-expression motivate the customer to purchase. Being forward-thinkers, they shop ahead of trends before those styles hit the mass market (“US”). While these individuals shop ahead of the trends, they are not impulse shoppers but instead the target market shops based on quality opposed to quantity.
According to Nielsen’s Best Segments, the largest age range in the population of the
Meatpacking District (zip: 10014) is between the ages of 24 to 34. The overall median age for the area however, is 39 years old. Median income is approximately $100,000 where the household size is predominantly a single-person composition. Per household, consumer spending averages at $67,248 per year which is higher than the nation’s average. The local upscale restaurants, nightlife, and retail destinations cater to this well-to-do population. The PRIZM segmentation for Meatpacking’s residents includes five major groups, however, NOVA’s target consumer base will focus on only two of the five of Meatpacking’s segments: the Bohemian Mix and the Young Digerati.
work from home. They visit the Meatpacking District either on business or for vacation and have high incomes. All four of these segments have the economic means, high educational background, and expressionistic desire to buy from a fashion-forward and socially-conscious, inclusive brand such as NOVA (“Zip Code”).
B. Target Market According to Location
tend to be quite entrepreneurial and own their own small business or
The Bohemian Mix is one of America’s most liberal
lifestyle groups. These young professionals tend to be early adopters and live in eclectic, expressively decorated homes. The Young Digerati are also a group of young professionals, and are quite tech-savvy. They tend to be highly
Near an art district called Chelsea and an eclectic
neighborhood known as the West Village, Urban Compass reports that the downtown Meatpacking District is 23% more expensive than other Manhattan neighborhoods. Upscale dining at chic boutique hotels and exclusive clothing boutiques draw in both New York locals and discerning tourists who wish to avoid tourist-ridden districts. In addition to its mix of the eclectic and luxurious, the district is also home to The High Line: a former skyline railway track reborn as a green public art installation. This overhead garden peaks the attention of people who admire trendiness, modernity, and sustainability. Nicknamed New York City’s “downtown playground” because of its positioning and retail offerings, the likes of affluent newcomers, fashion-forward designers, and creative executives flock to the area (“The New York City Neighborhood Guide”).
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 05
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 06
RAPH MAGENNIS 34 YEARS OF AGE LEAD GRAPHIC DESIGNER AT YAHOO $123,000 ANNUALLY BFA IN GRAPHIC DESIGN FROM RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGN YOUNG DIGERATI ENJOYS CROSSFIT, LITERATURE, SMALL COFFEE SHOPS, AND GORILLA ART SHOWS
SIA 27 YEARS OF AGE BROOKLYN GALLERY OWNER $130,000 ANNUALLY BFA IN ART MANAGEMENT FROM NYU BOHEMIAN MIX PASSIONATE ABOUT PHILANTHROPY, TRAVELING, AND HOT YOGA
KEY INDUSTRY RESEARCH
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 07
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 08
UNIQUE CHARACTERISTICS
SCOPE + SIZE
The apparel market within the United States is a high grossing industry. In 2012, the size of the
customer identifies with the core values and beliefs of the Millennial generation. Our customer is an
US apparel market was estimated to be worth $225 billion (“Statistics”). Within the apparel segment,
open-minded individual who is supportive of minorities, self-expressive, liberal, confident, upbeat, and
tops were worth approximately $4.3 billion (Safarek).
NOVA’s target market falls between the Millennial group and Generation-X. However, the
willing to try new things (Main). When purchasing apparel, the millenial customer will only purchase
The knitwear industry tends to have a wasteful production process. With sustainability being
items that are of the utmost quality. They value ethically made clothing that they can feel good about
one of NOVA’s key values, the brand is looking to target the alpaca fibers market. Alpaca fiber is one
spending large quantities of money on.
of the most sustainable and luxurious natural fibers available. The production of alpaca is growing at the rate of 15-18% per year (Merrell). To further prove that alpaca fiber is a growing industry, it is
WHOLESALE + RETAIL
estimated that the production will grow to 2,500 tons by 2020 (Merell). Comparatively, 5,000 tons are
$3,000
currently being exported out of Iran (Merell).
$2,700
$2,500
AGE RANGE
$2,000
$1,500
The core age group of individuals purchasing luxury apparel includes well-established
members of society between the ages of 50 to 54 (Safarek). NOVA is entering the luxury sector of
$500
between the ages of 24 and 34. NOVA is targeting this group based on their ability to purchase
$0
luxury fashion and identify trends before they hit the mass market. According to Forbes.com, 1% of
consumers value quality in their appearance, therefore, making them an excellent market for our product assortment.
$2,250 $1,845 $1,325
$1,000
the fashion industry; however, the brand has chosen to target a niche range of individuals who are
Millennials, between the ages of 18 and 30, have the means to shop this product category. These
$2,600
$135
$130
$275
Band of Public School Rad Horani Outisders Low
$338
Alexandre Plokhov
$300
NOVA
High
Wholesale
price for
processed, spun alpaca “tops” is between $10 to $24/kg with an average weight of 6 kg/sweater (“Alpaca”). NOVA’s wholesale price points range between $90 and $130 per unit (refer to cost sheet
SIZE RANGE
in appendix).
EXPECTATIONS *NOVA also includes ONE SIZE (see tech pack in appendix)
Quality is essential in ensuring NOVA’s brand loyalty. Our customers expects our products to
last a significant period of time in order for them to feel that their purchase is justified. Our fabrications will be produced with sustainability conscious fabrics and will be manufactured in ethically sound conditions due to our consumers beliefs and morals.
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 09
ALEXANDRE PLOKHOV
COMPETITORS
Showing a modern collection each season during New York Fashion Week,
Alexandre
Plokhov has recently been put on the radar for his admirable execution of gender-neutral looks. An
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 10
aesthetic closely in line with the likes
Band of Outsiders is a clothing company that is in tune with the Millennial
customer.
Based out of Los Angeles, this brand’s aesthetic is inspired by American classic tailoring and menswear. Band of Outsiders offers both women’s and menswear, with both being notably genderneutral. Considering their Millennial consumer, Band offers a wide price-range of $135-$2250.
loose-fitting silhouettes and dark color stories. The customer whom shops this brand looks for pieces that will standout, but also remain relevant for coming seasons. Price points for Alexandre Plokhov range from $338-$2700.
RAD HOURANI
$575
$2590
$795
$495
PUBLIC SCHOOL Success has followed Public School since their recent recognition at the CFDA Awards.
of Rad Hourani and Rick Owens, Plokhov has a flare for
Strictly a gender-neutral brand, Rad Hourani designs pieces that are versatile adaptable to
Starting out as a menswear brand, Public School now offers women’s wear as well. The brand tends
different body types. Each garment sold through his website is shown on both males and females.
to have a dark, sportswear inspired aesthetic, proposing alternative ways to mix and match different
Monochromatic color schemes and geometric silhouettes are two characteristics Hourani brings to
textures. The customer that shops Public School clothing would be an innovative individual who
each new collection. The Rad Hourani customer would be familiar with other edgy brands such as
desires to be ahead of the curve on trends and new technologies. The brand presents a price-range
Alexandre Plokhov and Rick Owens. This brands price-range falls between $275 and $1845.
of $130-$1325, keeping their contemporary customer in mind.
$645
$1845
$825
$1325
Market RESEARCH
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 11
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 12
Unisex sales trends
ready-to-wear. According to Business of Fashion, genderless garments on the runway are evidence
Unisex clothing is still known as a relatively niche market. This market is the final evolution of
This latest runway season was awash with genderless fashion for both women and men’s
what started out as an androgynous trend in the 90’s. Before then, women dressing in men’s fashion
that change is afoot at retail. More and more retailers are starting to take note as people of all markets
were perceived as scandalous. Today both genders borrow from the other. However, it is more
continue to construct their identities more freely. Chief menswear buyer of Luisa Via Roma reports,
prominent that women borrow from men’s styles. Unisex is different from androgyny in the sense that it
“Probably around 30 percent of the total menswear buy is genderless.” In March 2015, British
eliminates gender completely. In an article discussing the possibility of unisex becoming mainstream,
department store Selfridges is launching Agender, an experiment genderless pop-up shop within its
author Divia Harilela writes, “According to buyers, the concept has become more popular thanks to
flagship store.
the re-emergence of minimalism on the fashion scene.” Harilela also points out that unisex is more of a movement of self-expression than a trend. Unisex brands appeal more to the younger generation,
TECHNOLOGY trends
specifically the millennials. The younger consumer is more open-minded and will readily buy what
they like regardless of whether it was made for men or women (Harilela). Some researchers in unisex
conscious generation of consumers. Use of these fabrics could be a market advantage in targeting
fashion claim that unisex is not a trend but a new emerging market in itself. Although hard to measure,
the millennial consumer. “Millennials may not call themselves environmentalist but they care
it is apparent that there is a market for genderless clothing (Sherman). The strongest advocate of
more about the environment than previous generations. According to a recent report by Walden
unisex clothing is Rad Hourani, the first designer to present a unisex haute couture collection. Hourani
University 81% of adults worldwide prioritize firms that demonstrate environmental responsibility
creates seamlessly genderless collection that encourages the expression of individuality (Cochrane).
(Lass).” Contributing analyst of market research company Euromonitors International, Emily Potts
“It doesn’t make sense to me to limit things, which is why I studied male and female bodies to
states, “Although, for the time being, a fabric’s sustainability is low on the radar for the vast majority
create a canvas that can fit both.” Another designer who delves into unisex fashion is J.W. Anderson
of consumers, it is only a matter of time before consumer awareness grows and environmental
(Harilela). Author Sherman does however cite that gender norms may be too deeply ingrained into
credentials exert a growing influence over purchasing decisions (Potts, Global Textile).” Consumers
the society for this niche market to become mainstream (Sherman). Simultaneously, although the size
are becoming increasingly conscious of the story behind the products they purchase. Additionally, by
of the market is small and immeasurable, some feel that there is a constant demand (Harilela).
targeting the millennial consumer it is important for NOVA to build and maintain customer relationships
Buying convenience and the rise of lightweight living are two consumer trends that will affect
via social media. According to Deloitte, 19% of sales in 2013 were influenced by compared to 5% in
the label development of NOVA. 69% of shoppers avoid shopping online because of complicated
2012 ($159 billion), and consumers who use their digital devices during a shopping journey convert
return processes; 51% abandon an online purchase if shipping options aren’t fast enough; 61%
at a 40% higher rate than those who do not (Bell). The young tech-savvy consumers often research
of shoppers will leave an online store if free shipping isn’t offered; 58% of shoppers prefer to ‘see
possible purchases online. This consumer trend makes Omni channel consistency more important
and feel’ before buying (Bell). When striving for a consumer’s purchase one is also striving for that
than ever. The idea of keeping technology simple for customer’s in-store, on the web or on mobile will
consumer’s time. Making online and mobile shopping available and convenient to consumer is
be crucial in 2015. Consumers will avoid overcomplicated systems. A global study released by IBM
essential in attracting time-poor shoppers (Kasriel-Alexander). Collaborations, whether product or
this month found that almost half of the surveyors claimed that they like shopping online but only 29%
artistic, will continue to be key, and co-creation will change the emotional investment consumers have
made their last purchase online (Rumsey). It is essential for brands to create a seamless shopping
in our product.
experience online, via mobile, and in store (Kasriel-Alexander).
Innovation toward sustainable, environmentally friendly fabric caters to a more environmentally
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 13
LEADING MANUFACTURERS AND THEIR LOCATIONS FROM INITIAL RESEARCH
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 14
MARKET CONDITIONS REGARDING MANUFACTURER
The U.S. Apparel Industry relies heavily on imports. However, production in China continues
to rise in price. According to Euromonitor’s analysis on Apparel and Footwear in the US, by 2016 the cost of producing in China will be equivalent to producing in the use. However China may remain one of the top apparel manufacturer courtiers because it is the only country with a fully integrated garment industry where every step in production can be completed (Kasriel-Alexander). As China’s minimum wages rise, many companies are looking for low-cost alternatives. Many are turning to countries like Vietnam and Indonesia. But unlike the small Southeast Asia countries, India has the workforce quantity that rivals China, therefore it’s quickly become a top location for manufacturing. On the other hand sourcing more locally can aid in a more flexible supply change. Decreasing natural gases According to Manufacturing Global, “A new ranking of the competitiveness of the world’s top 25 exporting countries says the United States is once again a “rising star” of global manufacturing thanks to falling domestic natural gas prices, rising worker productivity and a lack of upward wage pressure.” This leads many U.S companies to rethink about the option of manufacturing in the U.S. The consumer trend of buying convenience and unseasonal weather calls for a change in the way the supply change works. According to Euromonitor’s fashion retailers need to move away from the idea that seasonal collection need to arrive to store at a standardize time. One of the many reasons Inditex, owner of ZARA, is successful is because it close proximity supply chain allows for flexibility. The ability to move with the flow of the season allows a company to keep up with consumer demand and reduce the amount of discounted item (Potts, Inflexible Supply).
Focusing in on the Alpaca industry, China is beginning to show interest in the Alpaca
industry going as far as to import the animals into the countries. Alpaca fiber processing has grown significantly in the United States (Alpaca). Alpaca is a growing fiber industry that is sustainable, natural, and renewable, which appeals to NOVA’s sustainability goals. After further research, while keeping in mine NOVA core values (sustainability, fair-trade, alpaca fibers), a more focused list of top knitwear manufacturers is displayed on the next page:
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 15
PRODUCTION + LABOR COSTS
Production costs for a sustainable, fair-trade, alapaca knit can range from $60
to $70 for machine knitting while hand-spun knitting ranges from $80 to $90 dollars. According to Aha Bolivia, these prices include raw materials and all production costs.
trend research
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 16
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 17 include mossy greens and browns, sandy and dusty pinks and neutrals, and pops of bright reds
Finishes, Colors, Treatments for Apparel Tops
In the broad category of Tops in the apparel industry, many combinations of finishes, colors,
treatments, and fabric blends exist. In the umbrella category of Tops, however, different types of finishes exist in the smaller categories of Purification, Mechanical, Aesthetic, and Special finishes. Purification finishes include singeing (to produce smoothness) and mercerizing. Mechanical finishes that are relatively standard include raising the surface of fibres, chemical finishing, calendaring, pressing, and shrinking. Aesthetic finishes include bleaching and dyeing. Special finishes can either add aesthetic elements or functional ones. Some of these finishes include fulling to thicken wool to become water resistant (Humphries 34). These finishings though, do produce a heavily negative ecological impact, as they utilize and pollute enormous amounts of water and employ the use of synthetic and harmful chemicals.
and blues (11).
Meanwhile, the issue of sustainability in the blends of the Tops industry cannot be ignored.
This has led a higher demand for eco-friendly fabrics that are sourced, produced, and disposed of ethically. According to Quartz Magazine, an increase in alpaca and cashmere fibres has helped combat the use of man-made fibres like acrylic in knitwear. Quartz makes the point that cashmeres must be sourced ethically to be considered “eco-friendly,” meaning most Chinese cashmere is not on the eco-list. Alpaca from less saturated markets such as in South America help aid in the growing demand for Eco-friendly materials (Avins).
According to Peclers Knit Fall/Winter 2016 Report, in the subcategory of knitwear, moreover
unisex knitwear, a plethora of silhouette, finishes, and trend combinations shrinks to comply with the needs and tastes of NOVA’s niche market. In unisex knit outerwear tops, there are a few new styles to pay attention to for Fall/Winter 2016. The first style is the poncho. It is free flowing, often hooded, and has little to no construction for arm holes. The second style is the boxy sweater. It is angular, oversized, and planar. The third style is a long, shin-length tunic that can be worn either in the form of a top or even a dress. Another style is the trapeze top: more fitted than the boxy sweater at the shoulder and chest, but just as wide at the bottom and cuff. One of the last major styles will be a relaxed-fit simple knit with a boat neck, ending at the mid-thigh. Contrastingly, tubular styles will also become more prominent (122-140).
NEWEST STYLES, COLORS, AND BLENDS Tops are often made of cotton voile, various knit blends, linen, flannel, rayon, and nylon, and various polyester weaves. Popular blends in knitwear in particular, however, include 70% PC 20% WO 10% WP and 80%VI 20% WA: blends of both natural and man made fibres. Textiles can also be 100% of one fibre content such as Merino wool. More often, different types of fibres are blended to create a unique fabric with characteristics of both in one piece (Peclers Knit 54). According to Peclers Color Fall/Winter 2016 Report, the colors manufacturers will produce for the upcoming season
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 18
In the unisex knit top category, according to a Euro
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 19
In regards to street style worldwide, the trend of artisanal elements in knitwear and outerwear
items that are oversized tend to appeal to both sexes,
has been brewing over the last three years. Photographs of hip, fashionable teens, to the bloggers,
as they are non-constrictive to either gender’s anatomy.
and fashion editors have been seen sporting tactile furs and other tactile elements such as 3D
Additionally, the rise of gender-equality and competition
embellishments, seen mostly in postings in reports by WWD, and through social media channels
to attract a marriage partner actually, according to
such as Tumblr, Pinterest, and Instagram (“They Are Wearing”). According to a Women’s Wear Daily
a report by Euromonitor International, has created a
report on the men’s trade shows, past trends that were popular in both menswear and women’s
demand for gender-neutral clothing that is perceived as “put-together” and well-curated (“Future
wear, including patchwork, embroidered details, and unorthodox woven materials such as metallics
Watch”).
through knits, are continuing their push to 2016 (Men’s Trends”).
POPULAR DETAIL FINDINGS
Traditional and modern types of fabric blends and finishes will also continue in knitwear.
According to Peclers Knit Fall/Winter 2016 Report, popular textiles fabric blends include flannelfinished Alpaca, Mohair herringbone weaves, boiled Shetland, and traditional varieties in viscose/ wool blends. A heightened appreciation for technical and performance fabrics will emerge. Additionally, “freckled” textiles woven or dyed with a few different colors cheer up the season. Frosted, metallic, and iridescent elements will also playfully be woven into traditional knits. Large cables, soft quilting, stretch rib knits, artisanal-looking knits, and multiple variations in layered textures will permeate the styles of the season (81-101).
The past few years, present, and future are all looking towards the mega-trend of mixing
artisanal and modern detail elements together in the design world as a whole, that directly influences fashion. According to Wallpaper Magazine, in the fields of furniture, interior design, sculpture, and fashion, all are including these elements, such as mixing metal with embellishments of plant holders, stone, and wood details, seen at the international exhibition “Maison et Objets 2015.” Painter Cayce Zavaglia incorporates fibres into her oil paintings, for example, and sculptor Judith Scott incorporates tactile strips of natural materials into her modern forms (Moore), both who
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 20
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 21 heightened increase in gender-
influence textile designers such as Jurgen Lehl for Babaghuri. WGSN very recently released
neutral consumption, in what
a forecast for FW 2016/2017 revealing the “Artisan” forecast, focusing on patchwork and
would be today’s market. This
embellishments by textile designers, will be a hot trend in knitwear and jersey for the season, spot on
is due to the increase of equality
(“Knit & Jersey Forecast”).
in genders socially worldwide today. Androgynous and even transgender models like Andrej Pejic grace magazine covers, advertising campaigns, and runways of top designers including Rick Owens and Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy. These brands utilize these “unisex-friendly” muses to accompany their designs like oversized T-shirts, skinny leggings, and sweaters, that can be worn by both sexes (“Future Watch”).
PRODUCT Requirements Product requirements for unisex knitwear differ to many other niches in the Apparel Top category. Traditionally, most unisex knitwear is designed with the male form in mind. This means that generally body-conscious knits are not popular in the unisex industry. Additionally, Peclers Knit Fall/Winter 2016 Report shows that the patterns covering the shoulder-area must be larger than in women’s knits. Most unisex tops are also cut longer in the torso area to cater to the varying heights of both men and women. Comfort in unisex knitwear derives from the generally relaxed fits of silhouettes, designed to comply with such variety of body-types inside each garment (122-140).
While androgynous models including Saskia De Brauw and BOYCHILD popularly model both
women’s wear and menswear, celebrity endorsement in unisex is not particularly popular. This may be due to an often socially conscious connotation related to the unisex industry that often reads as a cause-related niche to new consumers, instead of a trend-driven connotation (“All About Boys”). According to Euromonitor’s “Future Watch” report in 2011, though, the report highlighted a
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 22
CONCEPT + DESIGN BOARD, LINE SHEETS
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 23
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 24
LINE SHEETS
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 25
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 26
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 27
LINE plan
NOVA
NOVA
LINE PLAN LINE PLANAutumn/Winter Autumn/Winter 2016/2017 2016/2017 Fall/Winter Fall/Winter Holiday Holiday STYLE # NAME STYLE # NAMESEP (Grand Opening) SEP (OCT Grand Opening) NOV OCT DEC NOV JAN Quantities
Style #1 Style #2 Style #3 Style #4 Style #5
Quasi Style #1 Quasi Rem Style #2 Rem Medici Style #3 Medici Carvagio Style #4 Carvagio Bernini Style #5 Bernini TOTAL
TOTAL
Quantities Quantities
20 25 24 20 25 114
Introducing A/W 1Introducing 6/17 A/W 16/17 Introducing S/S 16/17 Introducing Collection S/S 16/17 Collection Introducing A/W 1Introducing 7/18 Collection A/W 17/18 Collection
DECFEB
SP/SU SP/SU JANMAR FEB APR MARMAY APRJUN
Summer Summer MAY JUL JUN AUG JUL TOTAL AUG Wholesale TOTAL Wholesale Wholesale
QuantitiesQuantities Quantities Quantities QuantitiesQuantities QuantitiesQuantities QuantitiesQuantities Quantities Quantities QuantitiesQuantities QuantitiesQuantities QuantitiesQuantities Quantities Quantities
10 15 14 15 15 69
20 25 24 20 25 114
12 16 15 25 21 89
10 25 15 30 14 32 15 45 15 30 69 162
12 16 15 25 21 89
8 14 15 15 14 66
25 30 32 45 30 162
11 13 12 10 14 60
8 7 14 9 15 8 15 6 14 10 66 40
11 8 13 10 12 9 10 7 14 11 60 45
7 9 8 6 10 40
11 13 12 10 14 60
8 10 9 7 11 45
14 16 15 13 17 75
11 13 12 10 14 60
15 17 16 14 18 80
14 20 16 24 15 23 13 19 17 24 75 110
Quantities Per Unit
15 17 16 14 18 80
161 202 195 199 213 970
$ 20 130.46 $ 24 108.97 $ 23 120.50 $ 19 131.26 $ 24 113.47 $ 110 151.17
Total
Per Unit
Cost Wholesale
Cost Cost
Per Total Unit
Total Per Unit
Margin Cost
$ 161 21,004.06 $ 130.46 $ 202 22,011.94 $ 108.97 $ 195 23,497.50 $ 120.50 $ 199 26,120.74 $ 131.26 $ 213 24,169.11 $ 113.47 $ 970 29,200.84 $ 151.17
$ 2,245 21,004.06 $ 361,515.66 $ 2,245$ $ 361,515.66 (2,114.98) $ 1,876 22,011.94 $ 378,862.99 $ 1,876$ $ 378,862.99 (1,766.59) $ 2,074 23,497.50 $ 404,432.01 $ 2,074$ $ 404,432.01 (1,953.51) $ 2,259 26,120.74 $ 449,582.44 $ 2,259$ $ 449,582.44 (2,127.95) $ 1,953 24,169.11 $ 415,991.57 $ 1,953$ $ 415,991.57 (1,839.54) $ 2,601.81 29,200.84 $ 502,596.17 $ 2,601.81$ $ 502,596.17 (2,450.64)
Average
Average
Average
Margin Margin%
Margin %
Total
Average Average
$ (2,114.98) 94.19% $ (1,766.59) 94.19% $ (1,953.51) 94.19% $ (2,127.95) 94.19% $ (1,839.54) 94.19% $ (2,450.64) 94.19 Average Average
94.19% 94.19% 94.19% 94.19% 94.19% 94.19 Average
branding materials
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 28
LABEL
LOGO
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 29
HANG TAG IMAGE WITH ARTIST STATEMENT INSIRT
ADDITIONAL SHOPPING BAG
HANG TAG FLAT WITH ARTIST STATEMENT INSIRT
MAIN SHOPPING BAG
MARKETING & PR
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 30
AUTUMN/WINTER 16/17 ADVERTISMENT
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 31
AUTUMN/WINTER 16/17 LOOKBOOK
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 32
PRODUCT LAUNCH FASHION FILM
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 33
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 34
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 35
ONLINE PRESENCE
WEBSITE
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 36
NOVA’S MEDIA KIT
Keeping true to the original vision that NOVA has developed, a media kit has been produced in
order to showcase wha our brand is all about. NOVA is a luxury retailer that prides itself on creating a highly valuable experience that speaks to the sophisticated and wordly consumer. With this in mind, the design team at NOVA has produced a kit that translates the image and experience we have worked so hard to create.
Upon receiving this media kit, leading officials in the fashion industry will get a full understanding of
the mood of NOVA. To ensure that these individuals identify with our mission, vision, and values, we have included elements that trigger the five senses: Touch: The first sense that the recipient will experience will be touch. This is achieved through handling of the box itself. The natural texture of the wood helps solidify NOVA’s ethical beliefs. Smell: The second sense triggered will be smell from the potpourri. This element will create a different experience for each individual but it will create a nostalgic memory. Taste: The third sense experienced will be taste. This will occur through the consumption of the four pieces of chocolate we have provided. Sight: The second to last sense is sight. This will be exprienced through the thumb drive provided. The thumb drive will include a 20 second fashion film that emulates our newest collection. Sound: Finally, the recipient will discover a provided list of music.
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 37
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 38
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 39
PRODUCT LAUNCH
To promote our first collection, we will host a launch event on the last day of Fashion Week on
February 18, 2016. The title of our event is “Remedy:” a launching party that will be a relaxing gathering
event menu
where our guests can unwind after an exhausting week of shows and plans. Our guestlist will contain
Elegant, organic hors d’oeuvres will be catered and
served by local restaurant Fig & Olive, costing $3,000. In
approximately 100 people, including magazine editors, bloggers, and influencers who support our target
order to keep our healing theme consistent, alcohol will not
market. Our introductory collection will be live modeled on pedestals, statuesque alongside an exhibition
be permitted, and instead, organic cold-pressed juices
of our collection’s textile designer Emily White’s portfolio of work.
from local juice bar Liquiteria will be provided at a cost of $1,200. The menu will include appetizers similar to:
LAUNCH EVENT THEME
Remedy is a theme that centers around the idea of relaxation and most importantly, the detox to a very long and intense week. Fashion Week is known to cause high levels of stress in all areas of the industry. While this launch is to showcase NOVA’s new collection, the main theme is serve as a decompressor in a clearn, clinical setting. The color
- CRUDITE which includes Farmers Raw Vegetables served with Ricotta Basil Tapende & Red Bell Pepper, Yogurt Ricotta Tapenade - MEDITERRANEAN CHEESE PLATTER which includes Fromage de Chevre,
palette for the event will be heavily monochromatic
Gorgonzola Dolce, Robiola, Manchego, Rocchetta; Served with Fig Jam,
with shades of white. The guests will receive a
FIG & OLIVE Tapenade, Marcona Almonds & Toast (Courtesy of the Fig & Olive Menu)
invitation in the form of a doctor’s note. Along with the note, the guest will receive a VIP hospital band that they must wear in order to enter the party. Once inside the event, the guests will be able to view NOVA’s debut collection. The models will be standing on pedestals and appear to be attached to clear IV bags.
ENTERTAINMENT
An up-and-coming
underground DJ from the New York area will play live trance music, at a cost of $2,000.
PARTY VENUE
Additionally, oxygen bar company
This event will be held in our $14,000 monthly retail space in the
Meatpacking district. The space itself is clean, minimal, and leaves room for the collaborative collections to shine through. We selected our retail space as our launch venue because the aesthetic of the store is right in line with the theme of the party, “Remedy.” The stark white interior details come across very medical and sanitary. Our team also believes that this space was more cost efficient than renting out an additional venue.
Air Heads will ship, set up, staff, and pack a state-of-the-art oxygen bar for the event, at a cost of $2,000. This statement piece will provide 12 guests at a time an aromatherapeutic experience unlike any other.
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 40
Ford, Magliochetti, Mobley, Rahmanparast 41
CONCLUSION
Through extensive research, NOVA has reached the conclusion that unisex knitwearii is a
profitable and necessary market to enter. By the identification of consumer lifestyles, the market research affecting the knitwear sector, and the various fashion trends, NOVA has created a LAUNCH PARTY INVITE
unique product line and brand that will stand out against competitors.
As proven throughout this document, the NOVA customer possesses qualities that
our brand has acknowledged to be influential. Following their beliefs, our brand has focused predominantly on quality, sustainablity, and creativity. The artist collaborations that our company has and will feature address the customer’s desire to contribute to the aritstic movement. Our brand’s focus throughout the entire product developement process centers around our consumer.
With the research provided, NOVA plans to expand the company and influence
individuals within the luxury sector to be a powerful change. Unisex clothing deminishes any trace of gender discrimination. It is through our collections and our brand’s mission, vision, and values that we will be able to alter the world of luxury, unisex fashion forever.
VIP WRISTBAD ENCLOSED WITH INVITATION
APPENDIX I TECH PACKS
II COST SHEETS
III A/W 16/17 LOOKBOOK
IV WORKS CITED
NOVA COST SHEET Style # Style Name Description
2/21/2015 BN-4535 Season Bernini Long, draped cardigan made out of 100% Cashmere with a tactile, lapels.
FW 16
Mill
Style #
Description
$/yard*
Yield**
Aha Bolivia
305866
100% Cashmere
$36/kg
1587.57 g
Fabrics Fabric 1 TOTAL FABRIC COST
Total $70
*to include freight
**must include waste
Components Vendor
Style #
Hook & eye
Axelrod Co., NY
32675
Thread
Aha Bolivia
123321
Care label
3GTrimmings Corp., NY
546123
Woven label
3GTrimmings Corp., NY
Aha Bolivia Artist Patwork TOTAL COMPONENT COSTS
$/unit
Quantity**
$Total
2
$0.002
$0.002
380.7 yd
$0.76
$0.05
1
$0.06
78666
$0.07
1
$0.08
12333
$1
1
$1 $1.99
PACKAGING Vendor
Style #
$/unit
Quantity
$Total
Hangtags
3G Trimming Corp., NY
9878743
$0.12
1
$0.13
Story/Price Tag
3G Trimming Corp., NY
87985
$0.05
1
$0.06
UVM Sticker
3G Trimming Corp., NY
97789
$0.01
1
$0.01
polybags
Aha Bolivia
90879
$0.20
1
$0.22
TOTAL PACKAGING COSTS
$0.42
PACKING Vendor
Style #
$/unit
Quantity
$Total
Cartons
ZIM Shipping
12354
$1.59 (10 x 18 ft box)
0.103896104
$1.59
Tape
ZIM Shipping
12122
$0.01
1.1 yd
$0.01
ZIM Shipping TOTAL PACKING COSTS
23311
$0.06
1.1
$0.06
Labels
$1.66
LABOR Machine Knitting
Vendor
$/unit
Quantity
Aha Bolivia
$9
1
$10
$0.50
1
$0.50
Admin
$Total
TOTAL LABOR
$10.40
OTHER Vendor Freight
ZIM Shipping
Duty Broker Insurance
ZIM Shipping
20 ft container, 70 garments
From
To
$Total
Arica, Chile
New York, NY
$12
($6300 COGS)
$14
(16%COGS)
$2
(2% COGS)
ZIM Shipping Merchandising Processing fee
$0.22
TOTAL OTHER
$29
GRAND TOTAL
$113.47
$0.33
WORKS CITED
Faw, Larissa. “Meet The Millennial 1%: Young, Rich, And Redefining Luxury.” Forbes. Forbes Magazine,
“25 Best Fashion Stories.” Fashionista. 1 Jan. 2015. Web. 15 Jan. 2015. <http://fashionista.
com/2015/01/best-fashion-stories-2014>.
millennial-1-young-rich-and-redefining-luxury/>.
“All About Men.” Trend Report. WGSN, 23 Oct. 2013. Web. 15 Jan. 2015. <http://www.wgsn.
Harilela, Divia. “Unisex Fashion Is All the Rage, but Will It Be Accepted into the Mainstream?” South
com/m/board_viewer/#/39006/page/3.>
“Alpaca.” Alpha Tops RSS. Alpha Tops, 2010. Web. 01 Feb. 2015.
<http://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/fashion-watches/article/1556177/unisex-fashion-all-rage-will-it-be-
accepted-mainstream>.
<http://www.alphatops.com/market/alpaca/>.
2 Nov. 2012. Web. 18 Jan. 2015. <http://www.forbes.com/sites/larissafaw/2012/10/02/meet-the-
China Morning Post. South China Morning Post Publishers Ltd, 21 July 2014. Web. 16 Jan. 2015.
“Alpaca Fiber Processors.” Gateway Farm Alpacas. Gateway Farm Alpacas, n.d. Web. 01
Humphries, Mary. Fabric Reference. 4th ed. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Pearson, 2009. 362. Print.
Kasriel-Alexander, Daphne. “Top 10 Global Consumer Trends For 2015.” Euromonitor. Euromonitor
Feb. 2015. <http://www.gatewayalpacas.com/industry-directory/alpaca-fiber-
processors.htm>.
“Apparel and Footwear in the US.” Euromonitor. Euromonitor International, 14 July 2014.
edu/portal/analysis/openanalysissavedresearch>.
“Knitted Pullovers.” Floreal Knitwear Ltd. BusinessTrade.com Ltd., n.d. Web. 18 Jan. 2015.
Web. 17 Jan. 2015. <http://0-www.portal.euromonitor.com.library.scad.edu/portal/
International, 13 Jan. 2015. Web. 17 Jan. 2015. <http://0-www.portal.euromonitor.com.library.scad.
analysis/openanalysissavedresearch>.
<http%3A%2F%2Fvanessa.en.busytrade.com%2Fproducts%2Finfo%2F10326%2FKnitted-Pullovers.
Bell, Andrea. “Shopper Forecast 2015.” WGSN. WGSN Limited, 1 Jan. 2015. Web. 01 Feb.
html>.
Lass, John. “Going Green: Manufacturing for the Millennial Generation.” Manufacturing. Manufacturing
2015. <http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/55867/page/1>.
Cochrane, Lauren. “Rad Hourani Presents the First Unisex Couture Collection.” The Guardian. Guardian
News and Media Limited, 30 Jan. 2014. Web. 17
manufacturingglobal-jan2014/9?e=12487208/10624858>.
Main, Douglas. “Who Are the Millennials?” LiveScience. TechMedia Network, 09 July 2013. Web. 18
Jan. 2015. <http%3A%2F%2Fwww.theguardian.com%2Ffashion%2Ffashion-
Gobal, Jan. 2015. Web. 01 Feb. 2015. <http://issuu.com/manufacturingglobal/docs/
blog%2F2014%2Fjan%2F30%2Frad-hourani-first-unisex-couture-collection-fashion>.Cunningham,
Erin. “The Coolest Kids on the Block: Public School, Opening Ceremony, and
“Meatpacking District.” StreetAdvisor. StreetAdvisor LP, 2015. Web. 18 Jan. 2015. <http%3A%2F%2Fwww.
Band of Outsiders.” The Daily Beast. Newsweek/Daily Beast, 2 Oct. 2014. Web. 12
streetadvisor.com%2Fmeatpacking-district-manhattan-new-york-city-new-york>.
Jan. 2015. <http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2014/02/10/the-coolest-kids-on-the-block-
Merrell, John. “Production Stats.” Alpaca Fiber Production Statistics. Gateway Farm Alpacas, n.d. Web. 01
Jan.2015. <http://www.livescience.com/38061-millennials-generation-y.html>.
public-school-opening-ceremony-and-band-of-outsiders-at-new-york-fashion-week.html>.
Cunningham, Erin. “The Coolest Kids on the Block: Public School, Opening Ceremony, and Band of
<http://www.gatewayalpacas.com/alpaca/alpaca-fiber/production-statistics.htm>.
Peclers Color FW 1516
Outsiders.” The Daily Beast. Newsweek/Daily Beast, 2 Oct. 2014. Web. 12 Jan. 2015. <http://www.
Feb. 2015.
thedailybeast.com/articles/2014/02/10/the-coolest-kids-on-the-block-public-school-opening-
Peclers Knit FW 1516
ceremony-and-band-of-outsiders-at-new-york-fashion-week.html>.
Potts, Emily. “Global Textile Trends Round-Up: The Implications of Fabric Innovation - Functionality and
Sustainability.” Euromonitor. Euromonitor International, 20 Nov. 2014. Web. 17 Jan. 2015. <http://0-
www.portal.euromonitor.com.library.scad.edu/portal/analysis/openanalysissavedresearch>.
Potts, Emily. “Inflexible Supply Chains Leave Apparel Sales Under a Cloud.” Euromonitor. Euromonitor
International, 29 Dec. 2014. Web. 17 Jan. 2015. <http://0-www.portal.euromonitor.com.library.scad.
edu/portal/analysis/blogindex>. Rumsey, Angela. “Future of Retail 2015.” WGSN. WGSN Limited, 30 Jan. 2015. Web. 01 Feb. 2015. <http://www.wgsn.com/m/board_viewer/#/56516/page/10>. Safarek, Pam. Apparel: United States. Rep. no. FF15010. Freedonia, Mar. 2014. Web. 18 Jan.
2015. <http://globalbb.onesource.com/Web/Reports/ReportMainIndustry.aspx?SicCodeID
=195 406&Report=ALLMARKETRESEARCHREPORTS&Process=IP&Type=GetReport&
FileFormat=PDF&ReportID=30172&FileName=FF15010.Pdf&VendorName=Freedonia>. “Salary: Art Director.” Glassdoor. Glassdoor, 1 Jan. 2015. Web. 12 Jan. 2015. <http://www.glassdoor.com/ Salaries/art-director-salary-SRCH_KO0,12.htm>. Sherman, Lauren. “Unisex Fashion: Can It Ever Be More Than a Niche Category?” Fashionista. <http:// fashionista.com/2014/08/unisex-designers>. “Speed to Market.” Trend Report. WGSN, 12 Dec. 2014. Web. 15 Jan. 2015.
<http://www.wgsn.com/
content/board_viewer/#/55834/page/3>. “Statistics and Facts on the Apparel Market in the U.S.” Statista. Statista, 2015. Web. 18 Jan. 2015. <http:// www.statista.com/topics/965/apparel-market-in-the-us/>. “The New York City Neighborhood Guide.” Urban Compass. 29 Dec. 2014. Web. 14 Jan. 2015. <https:// www.urbancompass.com/neighborhood-guides/>. “US Framework and VALS™ Types.” VALS™ | VALS™ Types | SBI. Strategic Business Insights, n.d. Web.
12 Jan. 2015.
“Williamsburg Guide.” Brooklyn Guide. 1 Jan. 2014. Web. 14 Jan. 2015. <http://www.brooklynnow.com/ williamsburg/clothing.html>. “Zip Code Look-Up.” My Best Segments. Nielsen, 1 Jan. 2014. Web. 17 Jan. 2015. <http://www.nielsen. com/us/en/solutions/segmentation.html>