4 minute read
IN SEASON
Season2in EATING THE COLORS OF FALL
written by STELLA FONG photography by DANIEL SULLIVAN
WHEN THE WEATHER COOLS and the earth tilts lower into the horizon, the once green plants take on colors of red, orange and yellow. This is the time of the year to eat food that holds those colors. Apples and pears ripen in the early fall as sweet potatoes mature a little later in the season. Applesauce and pear cake with lemon zest bring hearty comfort, while a vegetable tart with portabello mushroom, sweet potato, fennel and chévre showcases the earthy and rustic feel of this time of the year. The coolness of this season makes for the perfect time to simmer a treat on the stovetop or bake something delectable in the oven. ✻
vegetable tart
SERVES 6
Carrots, butternut squash and broccolini are vegetables that can be substituted for this tart. It can be made ahead and reheated to accompany a fresh salad.
CRUST ¾ c. whole-wheat flour ¾ c. white unbleached flour ½ t. salt 6 T. butter, cut into tiny pieces ¼ c. ice water
MAIN INGREDIENTS 2 portobello mushrooms, sliced 1 sweet potato, peeled, sliced 1 medium fennel bulb, cored, sliced 4 shallots, quartered 2 T. extra virgin olive oil 2 t. fresh thyme Salt, to taste Fresh ground black pepper, to taste 4 ounces chèvre cheese Fresh chives, chopped (optional)
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line one baking sheet with parchment paper. Oil another baking sheet. Set aside. In a food processor, add the flours and salt with the butter scattered over the mixture. Pulse the food processor until the ingredients form pea-size clumps. Add the water and process until the dough comes together. Put the dough onto a piece of parchment paper on top of a cutting board. Roll out into a 13-inch round. Transfer to a baking sheet and refrigerate while preparing vegetables. Toss vegetables with olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast until tender, 30 minutes.
Take baking sheet with dough out of refrigerator. Spoon vegetables into center leaving a 2-inch border. Crumble chèvre cheese and sprinkle on top. Gently fold edges of dough over vegetables. With pastry brush, brush egg white over the edges.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until lightly browned.
Serve warm or at room temperature garnished with chives, if desired.
pear cake
with lemon zest
SERVES 12 A slice of pear cake brings comfort for an afternoon snack or to the end of a meal. A scoop of vanilla ice cream, lemon gelato or a dollop of whipped cream pairs beautifully with this moist rich cake.
3 whole ripe pears 2¼ c. unbleached white flour 2 t. baking powder Pinch of salt 1½ c. sugar ½ c. unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 t. almond extract ½ t. vanilla extract 1 T. minced lemon zest 4 whole eggs ½ c. milk 1/3 c. vegetable oil 2 T. sugar Confectioner’s sugar for dusting
DIRECTIONS: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-inch springform pan with butter or oil, and line with parchment paper. Peel and slice pears. Set aside. In a medium bowl, mix flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In a mixer, cream together sugar and butter until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Add extracts, zest and eggs and mix together, about 1 minute. Add flour mixture and mix to combine, about 1 minute. Gradually mix in milk and oil until well incorporated, about 2 minutes. Pour batter into prepared pan. Arrange pear slices on top and sprinkle with sugar. Bake for 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into center comes out clean. Lightly cover the top with aluminum foil if browning too quickly. Cool cake completely and dust with confectioner’s sugar before serving.
ginger applesauce
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS Fall and applesauce go hand in hand. Though delicious eaten all by itself, it goes well with yogurt and even ice cream. Spread it on top of toast that has a spread of cream cheese or ricotta. Applesauce is the perfect accompaniment to roast pork or baked chicken. The Cosmic Crisp, a balance of sweet and tart, is currently my favorite apple for applesauce and pies as a well as eating raw. If you prefer more tart sauce, you can’t go wrong with a Granny Smith.
3 pounds apples, cored and quartered ½ c. apple juice or cider 1 T. lemon juice 2 t. finely minced ginger 1 cinnamon stick 4 whole cloves 1 t. ground cardamon 2 T. sugar or to taste
DIRECTIONS: Put apples, apple juice and lemon juice in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and add ginger, cinnamon, cloves and cardamon. Simmer, stirring often, until apples are soft, about 20 minutes. Stir in sugar. Remove whole spices and discard. With a potato masher or fork, coarsely mash the cooked apples. Keep in the refrigerator for up to a week or freeze any extras to enjoy later.
STELLA FONG, writer
Stella divides her time between Billings and Seattle and is the author of two Billings-centric books, Historic Restaurants of Billings and Billings Food. Her writings have appeared in Big Sky Journal, Western Art and Architecture, the Washington Post as well as online at lastbestplates.com.
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