Oman Milestones 2017

Milestones An Oman Observer 47th National Day Special

November 2017

sense & sensibility A nation moving forward, yet staying true to its culture and identity

artwork

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos “Our determination to move forward with confidence, towards the broader horizons of comprehensive, sustainable development, remains undiminished. While committed to preserving our own values and identity, we are enthusiastic about developing international relations to reinforce the advances already made. Further progress, we believe, can best be achieved through hard work and the pursuit of knowledge, which will prepare Oman and its citizens for dealing with the emerging realities of the modern age.�

Excerpt from a speech on setting the framework for modern development

Artwork by Sedunath Prabhakar

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08 A beauty that needs to be experienced The destination called Oman has had many names in the past, including Magan and Mazoon. The historians recorded the names as they travelled through the land and is today part of world history.

24 Falaj — lifeblood of the desert even to this day Taking a look into the falaj — how it is built and how it is utilised by villages all over the Sultanate. Learn about the traditional khabura and how, to this day, the system of division is done among neighbours.

46 Envisioning a global logistics hub ASYAD is looking to achieve pretty much the same in terms of trade, albeit with a key difference: it is seeking to leverage the strategic geographical location of the Sultanate to attract trade volumes to its shores for transshipment, value addition, processing, assembly, warehousing, redistribution and eventual export — thereby creating a new economic industry for Oman: LOGISTICS. 2

30 Al Hamra’s window to the past Al Hamra is a quaint town located in the Al Dakhiliyah Governorate in the northeast of the Sultanate known for its historic mud wall buildings. One of the houses found here, Bait al Safah, is dated at over three centuries old and the perfect place for those who want to get the experience of a more traditional Oman.

60 Blending past, present with future Properties that have come up in Muscat in the past 20 years, including residential complexes, have not moved away from the traditional principles of architecture.

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EDiTOR’s NOTE

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he national day celebrated each year is an important and momentous event that everyone in the country is eagerly waiting. With the joy and revelry that is happening, we’d like to join you in this celebration by bringing important stories to your attention and make you appreciate the developments happening all around us even more.

The preparations for this magazine started last year and although months flew so fast, with the calendar losing leaves faster than we can anticipate, it has always been on our minds. We strived hard to present you with an even better national day magazine because we know our readers always deserve the best.

We called this year’s special issue as Milestones because that is what it is all about — a collection of stories that record significant events, progress, and developments over the last 12 months.

This year, we paid a great deal of attention to every detail — from the stories we selected to the styling and design of the whole magazine.

We hope our coverage on Bait al Safah of Al Hamra and the pottery of Bahla will renew your interest in these important part of Oman’s heritage. We also covered architecture and have some updates on the business front particularly on SMEs and logistics.

All of these stories will be uploaded on our website too and will be shared on our social media channels which is why if you haven’t done it yet, kindly follow us not only on Facebook but Twitter and Instagram as well. Our handle is @omanobserver.

We hope that you will enjoy what we’ve endeavoured so hard to work on and find each story interesting to read.A happy celebration to us all.

About the cover Photo by: Haitham al Farsi A young boy shows his respect to his elder. It’s a powerful photo which, for the purposes of this year’s Milestones magazine, captures our theme —the young generation building upon the accomplishments of the old.

Production Team: Editor in Chief:

Abdullah bin Salim al Shueili Editor and Creative Design:

Yeru Ebuen

Project and Content Manager:

Titash Chakraborty Proofreader:

Sebastiana Bensam © Oman Daily Observer 2017 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

Printed and published by

Oman Establishment for Press, Publication and Advertising PO Box 974, Postal Code 100 Muscat, Sultanate of Oman Tel: 2464 9444, 2464 9458 Fax: 2464 9469 Website: omanobserver.om Images with names are property of their respective owners and permission was granted for special use of this publication.

Acknowledgement:

We would like to express our gratitude to all those who have contributed to the successful completion of this magazine most especially to all Oman Observer staff and everyone who supported us in various ways —our heartfelt thank you to you all.

Photo by Yousuf al Abri Local Omani men demonstrate traditional sword fighting techniques.

SIGHTS &

SOUNDS

Photo by Fredrick Edwards A dhow is left by the shore for the evening with millions of stars serving as its backdrop.

A beauty t hat needs to be expe rienced The archaeological sites of Al Baleed, Qalhat and Ras al Jinz are just some of Oman’s destinations that proved that even in ancient times the Sultanate has been receiving tourists along with traders. With renewed efforts being made in the tourism sector today, the country is establishing itself as a year round destination full of exciting and varied adventures for its guests.

Photo by Qasim al Farsi

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lakshmi kothaneth

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Photo by Yeru Ebuen

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he destination called Oman has had many names in the past, including Magan and Mazoon. The historians recorded the names as they travelled through the land and is today part of world history.

These ancient travelers who recorded their journeys might be the early tourists along with the traders who have left trails for archeologists to find after centuries as has been the case at the archeological sites of Al Baleed, Qalhat and Ras Al Jinz.

Today Oman is a destination that has yearlong attractions. The summer has the major attraction in Salalah, which has established itself as the summer destination for the GCC region. Jabal Akhdar sits pretty as part of Al Hajjar Mountain range ready to receive tourists all seasons.

Come October the cruise ships begin to arrive at Mina Sultan Qaboos and Mina Salalah with tourists explore on foot or cycle the Muttrah Souq, Muscat and when in Salalah the souq and the archeological sites await the tourists.

For the serious explorers Rub al Khali and Sharqiya Sands offer the desert experience and camping under the stars.

Adventure tourism is the growing trend and with the long coast line of Oman the sun, sand and surf create a unique experience to explore underwater sights.

While the nation’s pristine nature is a combination of contrasts its history, traditions and culture have been always the Sultanate’s assets. The ultimate stamp of attraction have been the security and stability the Sultanate enjoys.

Oman is witnessing the final stages of its infrastructure projects such as the new Muscat International Airport, Oman Convention and Exhibition Center, Oman Cultural Complex, as well as expanding its airlines, transport and communication network.

Gulf nationals formed a mammoth 69.1 per cent of the total number of visitors to the Sultanate in July this year.

This was followed by Indian, British and Pakistani nationalities who stood at the second, third and fourth positions with 7.6 per cent, 2.7 per cent and 2.6 per cent, respectively, during the period.

Photo by Ahmed al Jaabri

The Ministry of Tourism has established a number of Oman Tourism Representative Offices around the world to attract tourists, through contracting international tourism promotions-specialized companies and organizing events and activities that promote Oman as a sustainable and responsible tourism destination.

“We have eight offices in 16 countries for example we have the office in Dubai for the GCC countries, India for Asia, offices in UK, Ireland, Netherlands, German, Italy, France, Australia and New Zealand,” explained Mohammed al Riyami, Director of External Offices, Ministry of tourism.

Oman’s tourism brand is its hospitality. “Tourists find authenticity in Oman’s culture, in its frankincense, halwa, handicrafts and the whole experience of its people and landscape.”

The tag line #beauty has an address has been saying it all.

Recently the Ministry of Tourism (MoT) was at the 37th World Tourism Market (WTM) that took place in London

Oman is witnessing the final stages of its infrastructure projects such as the new Muscat International Airport, Oman Convention and Exhibition Center, Oman Cultural Complex, as well as expanding its airlines, transport and communication network from 6th to 8th November. The event that hosted almost 5,000 organizations and participants around the globe, had

20 Omani organizations taking part.

Considered the second biggest travel and tourism exhibition in the world annually. The Sultanate’s delegation was spearheaded by Maitha Bint Saif Al Mahrouqi, Undersecretary of the MoT and on the occasion she said, “The MoT is keen to participate in the WTM year on year, as it provides a number of activities, forums, and discussion panels that offer a closer look into the trends and updates in the tourism sector. The event gathers tourism experts and specialists under one roof, and is a great platform to promote Oman as a unique tourism destination in the European market.”

She added: “The European tourism market is one of the crucial markets that the Sultanate is striving to target through its strategic plans. The number of European tourists who visited Oman during 2016 is 4,01,784; while the number of tourists visiting Oman from the UK in 11

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Photo by Yeru Ebuen 12

October 2017 has reached 98,556. These statistics are a reflection of the tremendous efforts made by the MoT to promote Oman on a global scale; and attract more international tourists to enjoy our distinctive tourism activities around the year.”

By 2016, the numbers of the German tourists visiting Oman had reached 72,566, with a growth rate up to 10% compared to 2015, and 49,411 up till September 2017. On the other hand, the Austrian tourists had reached 7,051 in 2016.

Oman is increasing its tourism pitch in countries such as China, Japan, and Korea as it tries to cash in on booming Asian outbound tourism market.

“We have found that there is a huge tourism potential from China, Japan, and Korea. We are studying these markets at this stage and will soon have a strategy to tap tourists from these countries”, the Digest quoted Maitha bint Saif al Mahrouqi, Under Secretary in the Ministry of Tourism, as saying.

She also stated that Oman is also keeping US on their list and they are working closely with national carrier Oman Air. A potential area that is being identified for example is China. In a recent forum conducted in Oman, Sayyid Adil Al Busaidi, advisor on Tourism Affairs, Ministry of Tourism said in his speech at the Forum, “This gathering gives us the opportunity to discuss Oman’s upcoming new tourism attractions and Chinese investor interest.

It is no secret that Oman has become one of the top tourist destinations in the world; enabling visitors to have new and unique experiences of adventure, camping, sea-cruises, beach sports and more.

Oman provides visitors and travelers with best-inclass, authentic Arabian experiences, which is the essence of our National Strategy for Tourism.

According to him, “It is noteworthy that China is considered as one of the countries with a growing number of travellers, who are interested in luxury travel. In lieu of this, the Ministry has recently issued a circular to all tourism sector facilities to facilitate the granting of unsponsored tourist visas to the nationals of a number of countries, including China. Travelers who reside in, or hold an entry visa to the United States of America, Canada, Australia, the United Kingdom and Schengen states are now allowed to obtain a non-sponsored tourist visa to Oman.”

He concluded, “It is our constant endeavor to continue to enhance our cooperation with China; and I trust that this will result in strengthening mutually beneficial ties for our countries.”

The Sultanate today offers a number of travel and tourism companies, a vast airlines network, and many tourism projects, all of which present the perfect opportunity to attract more tourists from around the world.

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Traditional music remains rooted With the changing tides and evolving modernity around the globe, music has also changed and paved way for newer styles and genres to develop. But against these odds, the Sultanate has maintained links with its traditional roots. Popular Omani music has adopted and adapted to changing times whilst keeping true to its origins – a constant reminder of the spontaneity, rich culture and versatile sounds produced during the glory eras of Oman’s music

Photos by Haitham al Farsi

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Kabeer Yousuf

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xperiments go on, and musicians and instruments change. But there is one thing that has remained constant in the Sultanate’s musical journey: culture and tradition.

The role of traditional music in transforming the country the last four decades is important as folklore and other art forms can influence transformation to a great extent.

These art forms were influenced by the

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country’s coastal culture as well as Omani sailors’ interaction with people from across the continent.

Traditional music, which emphasises rhythm, has withstood the test of time.

At the same time, musical instruments have undergone changes in their look and appearance.

Popular Omani music is diverse and reflects the present times. In an age when things are changing rapidly, new styles of music are evolving.

At the same time, traditional music has, while adapting to some fine-tuning, has stuck to its roots.

“Oman’s traditional music and art forms have managed to defy all attempts to cause changes to it. The changing times and the digital age have had an impact on their appearance and output, but it has always remained rooted to tradition,” says Nasser al Sawafi, Director of Intangible Heritage Culture, Ministry of Heritage and Culture.

Music in Oman has been strongly influenced by its coastal location and a relatively recent Portuguese presence, while geographic neighbours such as the United Arab Emirates, Yemen, Saudi Arabia and Iran have had a profound influence.

In contrast to other Arab countries, Oman’s music genres are born from all spheres of Omani life and they are sung at festive occasions such as births, circumcision, marriage, religious celebrations, national festivals, children’s games, etc.

Historically, music has played an important part in all activities related to the sea such as casting/ hauling of nets, hoisting/ lowering of sails and coming home triumphant after a day’s catch.

Authentic Arabic music in Oman can be characterised by ‘tetrachords’ with classic Arabic intervals, including three-quarter tones taken from the Arabic musical scales — the ‘maqamat’.

Different regions have its regional and communal music forms on a variety of occasions.

For example, the

traditional dance form of Liwa traces its origin to Africa and is performed in Eastern Arabia among descendants of the people from Swahili coast, which include Tanzania and Zanzibar.

It is also performed by the Africandescent Sheedi community, besides the Baloch community in Pakistan’s Makran coast and Karachi area.

“Unlike in most Arab countries, all Omanis, including men and women, and the young and the old, participate in music and celebrations,” said Abdulaziz bin Nasser bin Said al Balushi, Head of Music and Folklore at the Ministry of Heritage and Culture.

Traditional songs originating from the desert are often in praise of the camel, which has been described in the holy Quran. Al Taghrud, sung while riding camels, and Al Taariq, a Bedouin song with two singers taking turns to sing verses, are two of the best examples of traditional desert songs.

Razha, a dance characterised by sword and poetry exchange, is another way of expression for the Omani population at various occasions.

Acclaimed singers such as Sham Maskari and Salim Rashid al Suri, who have combined strains of the sounds of the northern Arabian Gulf and other

musical traditions of the Indian Ocean as pioneers of the genre called Sawt Al Khaleej (Voice of the Gulf), have had exponential influence on Oman music.

“Our unique nature has given us an assortment of traditional marine and mountain arts, including Al Nabdah, Al Dan, Al Razeef, Al Ramasiya, Al Azi, Al Sahba and al Rawah,” says Al Sawafi.

According to him, although the inhabitants of Musandam Governorate call a lot of art forms with names that are common in other regions of the country, Musandam is known for its “unique performance”.

“Al Rawah is considered one of the original art forms of people of Musandam that has been kept alive till today.”

Saif Subeit al Mamary, a poet, says popular art forms are the best way of expressing culture and they originate from the local environment.

Al Razfa, for instance, is one of the most popular art forms performed at wars in history, national events in modern times, social gatherings such as weddings, and when leaders from other countries visit Oman.

Oman’s percussion instruments such as kasir and rahmani are essential elements of traditional music.

Other instruments such as tambourine (duff) and khulkhal, an anklet, mirror Omani culture and tradition.

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Essential things to know about Oman Zainab al nassri

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man is a country of tradition and history.

All the little things you see, from the noticeable celebrations to the more subtle practices and traditions, they all contribute to Oman’s identity. Here are a few things worth knowing:

Daggers, swords A normal/ hooked dagger is an important component of the Omani dress. They are worn at official events, national celebrations and weddings. The dagger-making industry has survived the passage of time, although with modern improvements. The dagger is a symbol of pride among Omani men, who wear it on their leather belts over the dishdasha (long outer garment). Its front section is made of small, connected silver pieces or embroidered with silver/ gold threads. A dagger’s price is determined by the material it is made of, usually iron, silver or gold.

Necklaces Decorated with leaves and flower drawings, necklaces in Oman are common in all parts of the country. ‘Manthora’, worn by women in Dhakhiliya Governorate, is known for its string of beads. Wearing of necklaces with silver beads has been in existence in Oman for more than 5,000 years. One type is the oblate one closed by a clasp. There are other complicated types with golden, raised drawings.

Some have heavy decorations and chains.

Textiles Omanis have been known for their textile industry from ancient times. It is called the industry of Sidu (weaving) by the Bedouins, who weave sheep’s and goat’s wool.

Fabrics woven from animal wool and hair were used for Bedouin tents. Bedouin women were known for making socks from sheep wool and spinning camel adornments on their spindles. Wilayat of Samail in Dhakhiliya Governorate is known for its textile industry.

Palm tree products Rings

Clothing Men’s clothes are known for their simplicity. Their dress is a long robe, called dishdasha, with a round neckline surrounded by a thin tassle. Women’s clothes are adorned with bright colours and magnificent artistic embroideries that differ from one region to another.

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Women are fond of rings in Oman.

As per tradition, certain types of rings should be worn on each finger. For instance, ‘shahid’ ring (with ornaments and sharp edges) is worn on the index finger; ‘bu fosos’ ring (rounded and decorative) on the middle finger; ‘abust’ (square decorations) on the ring finger; ‘hesa’ ring (inlaid with a coloured stone or glass) on the little finger; and a simple ring with a stone in the middle on the thumb. In the past, rings were worn to drive away evil spirits. Hence, bones and horns were inserted in the rings.

There are Al Khaws (palm leaves), Zawr (palm branches stripped of leaves), palm trunk and the fibre.

Mats are made from two plants called Al Ghadf and Al Rusul that grow on banks of valleys where water is available in abundance.

The Governorate of Musandam is known for utensils -- Al Surood and Al Makba – both made from palm leaves. Al Surood is a tray used for storing food. Al Makba serves the same purpose. ‘Kafeer’ is a pot used for collecting dates in summer. ‘Khasfa, used during Eid, is a big bag where meat is kept and placed in the ‘tanoor’, or cooking pits, for making ‘Shuwa’, a special dish.

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Snapshot

Photo by Haitham al Farsi A woman leaves footprints behind as she traverses the massive goldem sand dunes.

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Culture &

Heritage Photo by Haitham al Farsi Men in their dishdashas carry drums as they make their way to attend a traditional gathering.

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Falaj — lifeblood of the desert even to this day What do the ruins in Salut, the fully restored Jabreen Castle, the traditional village of Al Hamra even the scenic Quriyat have in common? How does the legend of the visit of Solomon, son of David, connects with the story of an inherited ‘wakeel’ position in Bidbid? And why is it such an important post for this small town?

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Yarubi, son of the Imam who removed the Portuguese from Oman, Sultan bin Saif al Yarubi.

On a Thursday morning just this November, a group of tourists from Germany was touring the castle. One of them, an elderly lady, unable to keep up with the rest of the group, decided to hire her personal tour guide, an Omani.

Their first stop, upon entry, was the kitchen of the castle of which the copper kitchenwares fascinated the old lady. Pots were also hanging on the walls alongside their metal cousins.

“The workers of the castle use to get their water from this well, which is about 25 metres deep,” the guide said.

“If you’d look at the well right now, there is still water on it and it still works,” he said.

The old lady peered down the hole in the ground and what greeted her was the sparkling movement of the liquid below.

“This is amazing. How could they made all these possible?” she asked.

Contrary to popular beliefs, falaj isn’t just found on the surface and running on the ground. Its popular form now, where concrete is used and waterproofed with cement called saruj, the modern ones people see in different parts of the

Yeru Ebuen

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n top of the ruins of Salut in the Al Dhakiliyah Governorate, one will have an unobstructed 360-degree view of the surrounding area. Right beneath the foot of the hill where the castle was built is a stark landscape of golden sand and stones. It goes on for a mile but little farther from that are date palm plantations and gardens teeming with life, flourishing even under the torturous heat of the summer sun with Oman’s long practised irrigation system keeping them thriving.

Located 2km north of the more modern town of Bisyah, researchers claimed that the area of Salut is a large ancient agricultural oasis and the site where the castle is located is one of the most fertile valleys of central Oman. They make this claims based on evidence — archaeological remains dating back to 26

as early as 1300 – 300 BCE. Here, researchers found remains of falaj — several if not hundreds of them and remnants of human habitations

Falaj-builders tunneled underground when necessary to keep the water flow going. It is a complex task, one that requires good knowledge and surveying skills.

piling after one another — a testament to the constant peopling of the area.

Some claimed that the Salut Castle is where Solomon, son of David, landed during his 10-day visit here in Oman. As the legend goes, Solomon “was blown off

Before the water is distributed, it is collected first at a large cistern which is called lajil or jabiya. Its size can vary (with one in Samail measuring 20m in diameter and at least five metres in depth).

course by a strong wind. When he looked down, the great king Solomon, son of David, saw in the strange landscape of Oman a splendid castle. And he sent down his spirits to investigate. They reported that an eagle lived there, always had, and that the only inhabitants of the land were Bedu Arab tribesmen, and Suleiman bin Da’ud commanded his spirits to dig for water in the mountains to produce Alfalaj water channels, a thousand a day. And he stayed for ten days (1).”

This is just one instance where the word ‘alfalaj’ was used. Falaj, which means ‘water canal or duct’ had some researchers also interpret it to mean ‘distribution.’ Depending on the time and place or even incidence, the irrigation system seemed to have taken different names which is why to this day, it is hard to pinpoint its origin.

country, didn’t look like it in the past.

While the surface water was easily tapped and redirected for irrigation, underground water was also exploited. Wells are sunk, at some point, several of them were created until a water-bearing system was formed. The water was allowed to run underground until it emerges on ground slopes.

Falaj-builders tunneled underground when necessary to keep the water flow going. It is a complex task, one that requires good knowledge and surveying skills. Maintenance is a different topic altogether.

Before the water is distributed, it is collected first at a large cistern which is called lajil or jabiya. Its size can vary (with one in Samail measuring 20m in diameter and at least five metres in depth). The cisterns allow huge quantity collection of water allowing for a better and steady flow of water.

With cisterns filled usually in the evening, the falaj, up to several metres, were usually roofed to prevent pollution as the water was also used for drinking.

About 20 kilometres from Salut stands proud the fully renovated Jabreen Castle. It is said that the castle was built by Iman Bel’Arab bin Sultan Al

In Lizagh in 2013, a remarkable tradition took place where a father passes on to his son the ‘Wakeel’ position. A wakeel ( or wakil — meaning disposer of affairs), simply put, is a falaj keeper.

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As the tradition goes, a falaj is divided into many khabura or shares. This share entitles the owner access to a certain amount of water and according to his entitlement, can either use it, share it, sell it (Al Marhoona), or have somebody totally use it in his behalf. Shareholders can also book water rights for the next day (Al Shariya) and the division can either be for domestic (Al Quad) or agricultural (Badat Al Shriya) use.

Rashid Said al Nidabi, in an interview with Oman Observer, shared that his father told him that he is no longer able to do the job — a position which is inherited — he shares with another wakeel, at the time of the interview, was Mohammed Al Husseini. For a small town like Bidbid, the position is high profile, and as Nidabi puts it, “a great responsibility... an honour for our families.”

Water coming from aflaj (plural form of falaj) are used for different purposes. While they typically are used these days for domestic washing and agricultural cultivation, back in the day, they were also used for drinking.

As the tradition goes, a falaj is divided into many khabura or shares. This share entitles the owner access to a certain amount of water and according to his entitlement, can either use it, share it, sell it (Al Marhoona), or have somebody totally use it in his behalf.

As still observed in Lizagh, water rotas or athar, the period where khabura owners can use their water shares, uses the traditional method of sticks and stones serving as a sundial. A wooden pole (or stone pillar) is placed on a rectangular platform (ranging from 10 to 25 metres or 8 to 20 metres) on the ground and not far from it, stone markers are strategically set in equal distance and when the shadow of the pole falls onto a certain marker means the hour of a particular khaboura.

In the evening time, the stars became the basis as each star appears on a particular hour in the night sky.

Nidabi shared that he considers the falaj operation in his village to be one of the more progressive and diverse in the country putting into consideration not only management but the development of extension and replacement of falaj channels.

“It can be dangerous work servicing the falaj in such confined spaces, and most of the maintenance and servicing is done during the winter as it is much cooler underground,” Nidabi shared during his interview.

Observer report also added that “Bidbid’s falaj begins under the mountains, in an underground spring, and 28

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emerges into the open falaj channels, near the Mosque in the heart of Lizagh. The Sharia al Falaj, as the underground part of the falaj is known, runs for approximately 3 kms, serviced by a series of narrow access shafts.”

“I am here daily doing the work for my village. I never thought of this when I was a boy, because the Wakeel was so important,” Nidabi was quoted saying.

The Wadi Dayqah Dam in Quriyat is an imposing structure holding the power of life and death within its floodgates.

A network of about 2-metres wide falaj below it service date plantations keeping the area abundant with green. It hasn’t rained for months and in August, the water level in the dam has dropped quite a lot but it never worried the plantation owners in the surrounding area.

Dozens of residents were swimming in the falaj and in a more secluded part of the Quriyat falaj network, two young Omani boys of 12, one named Ahmed, were watching the people enjoying a dip in the shallow waters.

They’ve gotten used to people going to their small village by now.

“My family takes care of one of the plantations,” Ahmed said. The heat sweltering and tiny droplets of sweat were forming on his forehead. “We always lived here,” he added.

“We harvest dates in a few months. The water always flows,” he said.

Not far from where Ahmed lives, the Hajjar is a dry, lifeless brown peeking out of the Earth. Several hours deeper into the heart of Oman, into the Al Sharqiyah Governorate, the breathtaking Wahiba Sands gave out a little tantrum spreading dust into the air. This is the Middle East many people are familiar with — sandy, hot, camels roaming the desert, and the oasis an anomaly in its landscape.

For Stephie and Coco, European visitors who recently been to Al Hamra found it mesmerizing that pockets of green are found everywhere.

“These are all educational. Everything we see changes our perspective about Oman,” Coco gushed.

“And I never thought it to be this green,” Stephie shared.

One of the guides in Bait al Safah started to show them around. One of the lessons they are learning for the day is how everything people eat in Al Hamra is grown locally.

“The falaj makes all this possible. These villages are still here because of the water network all over Oman,” their guide said.

“It’s the lifeblood of the desert even to this day,” he added before they vanished into the ruins of Oman’s popular house of heritage.

Source: 1. Ann and Dray Hill. The Sultanate of Oman, A heritage. Forwarded by: Colin Maxwell. London & new York, Longman press, first published 1977

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Al Hamra’s win dow to the past Photo by: Shihab al Shandoodui Instagram: @white_lion_1991

Titash Chakraborthy

Al Hamra is a quaint town located in the Al Dakhiliyah Governorate in the Northeast of the Sultanate known for its historic mud wall buildings. One of the houses, Bait al Safah, is dated at over three centuries old and the perfect place for those who want to get the experience of a more traditional Oman.

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wo hours away from the capital city of Muscat, hidden away in the midst of a modern rural town is a forgotten city that although abandoned, still stands today. These are said to be some of the best-preserved ruins present in the Sultanate of Oman.

The partially restored ruins that sit

at the foot of the Hajjar Mountains, cradles in it a time capsule of Oman’s fascinating past and traditions.

Al Hamra is located in the Al Dakhilliyah Governorate in the Northeast of the Sultanate. Along with the ruins of the old village, the region is also home to a number of other tourist areas like the picturesque village of Misfat Al Abryeen built on the mountainsides.

Also known as Hamra Al Abryeen, Al Hamra village is dated at over three centuries old. This quaint town

is known for its historic mud wall buildings preserving the tales and stories of what makes Oman a unique destination. The wooden windows, decorations, painted ceilings and the architecture of the now abandoned area shows proof of a once thriving and exciting civilisation.

Unlike what is seen in the rest of the country, many of these houses were built with 2 or more floors, some even at four floors, the ceilings were made with palm beams that were painted in various patterns of choice using 31

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natural dyes like red stone and indigo and topped with straw and mud.

Walking down these tattered alleyways and surrounded by tall mud walls almost gives one a nostalgic and realistic experience of walking through history. Although abandoned, it isn’t difficult to imagine what it must have been like to walk these roads in the days of its glory during the hustle and bustle of the traditional Omani people.

Amongst these ancient dwellings, renovated and re-animated is Bait al Safah, a living museum presenting to its visitors a chance to experience the life of the old Al Hamra.

Bait Al Safah is not your usual run-of-the-mill tedious museum but a one of a kind place where the local men and women openly perform everyday household chores that took place (and still do in many families) in Omani homes — weaving and spinning, creating perfumes, making of Omani bread and coffee which are shared with the visitors.

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The building has been restored to resemble its early days with traditional furnishings and decorations akin to the local Omani housing styles. Also displayed are Omani handicrafts, utensils and traditional kitchenwares that have almost disappeared in the modern times.

The aim of this museum is to give the people of Oman and those visiting a chance to experience a traditional and now forgotten past of ancient Oman.

As is part of their customs, before entering the inside areas of the house, visitors are asked to take their shoes off at the entrance— a sign of respect for the owners and a way of keeping the insides of the house clean. Once inside, the house gives one a mnemonic of what the house looked like back in the day.

In the atrium of the museum that is located in the first floor, guests are welcomed with a gift shop selling traditional Omani delicacies from the area — Honey, frankincense, bakhoor

(a traditional Omani incense), Dates along with handicrafts like khanjars, keychains, and other keepsakes. The museum provides tour guides who are well versed in various languages most of whom grew up in this remarkable town. The locals, most of whom have either moved to the cities in other parts of the country or built more modern houses outside these old dwellings still feel strong connections to these houses built by their ancestors.

The main attraction of this museum is the traditional kitchen where the women of the house came together to prepare food, make oils and grind and brew the popular drink Kahwa (Omani coffee). Visitors get an interactive experience of the various mentioned activities of Omani bread making, grinding coffee and wheat and making of the special Moringa oil — a sought-after and expensive commodity in the region.

The processes of these activities are long and tedious and require a skill

that is only known to them.

During our time travelling trip to this historic side of the sultanate, our guide was a young man named Khalid who took us around the building and told us in detail about what was being shown to us. Our tour started in the kitchen where we were introduced to the women who were giving us the demo of these household activities.

The women were dressed in traditional Omani dresses in bright colours as is visible throughout the Sultanate, They gave us a glimpse of the traditions in an Omani household.

It is visible from first meeting them that these women still lived the traditional lives, untouched by the invasion of modernity. All the women were warm and welcoming and enjoyed sharing their culture with their guests and visitors.

The first lady showed us how traditional Omani bread was made —

a crepe-like paper thin bread cooked on a heated flat surface. The bread is made with a sticky batter consisting of home ground flour, salt, and water.

Using just her hands, the woman picked up a dollop of the sticky batter, created a thin layer of it on the hot surface and voila! in a second, the fresh crisp Omani bread was ready.

The second thing demonstrated by the women was how Kahwa or Omani Coffee was made. Grounded by the women themselves, they mastered making their own signature blends.

Green coffee beans are imported from other parts of the middle east which are then roasted until dark brown.

Following this, the women crush and grind the aromatic beans in a large mortar and pestle to create the powder.

Khalid told us, “When the woman in the house would grind coffee, the sound could be heard from all over the area.

People would then know that fresh

coffee is going to be prepared in the house and they would go to the house to visit and drink the fresh kahwa.”

The sound was enough to ensure onlookers that this wasn’t a job for the weak or the fragile, one needed strong ears and strong arms to be able to use the heavy utensils to crush the beans into a fine powder. The Kahwa is then made like regular instant coffee, boiled with water. Depending on the region, many households often add spices like cardamom to create a unique, fragrant taste.

The tour then moved onto showing us a traditional household flour mill — two heavy stones sat on a stone base with a hole where the wheat was added.

This simple yet sturdy innovation was a common site in the olden days, men, women, and children would take turns to turn the rock and grind up the wheat into flour. Once crushed, the ground up material would collect in the base,

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which is then sifted to remove impurities and larger particles. The flour was then put away and stored away for the next batch of Omani bread.

The fourth woman sitting next to the flour mill was using all her strength to squeeze oil out of a green dough. This was the famously known and popular Moringa oil — the women spent their time cracking out the seeds of the Moringa plant which is then crushed with salt and water to form a green dough. The dough is then squeezed for three to four days to extract the oil. This oil is known throughout the region and the country for it’s’ healing properties and health benefits.

The women also used sandalwood and rosewater to create pigments that not just for its health benefits but also to decorate their faces. Khalid shared with us that traditionally, the women when visiting each other’s homes would not be allowed to leave before applying the yellow pigment on each other Although to us these activities seem exotic, to these women and to most traditional Omani households of the time, these were the workings of an Omani kitchen.

Another room in the museum showcased the different clothes worn by the people in the people in the area. Unlike what is common knowledge, the abaya is a garment of a more modern Oman. Traditionally, women wore brightly coloured long tops with elaborate designs and embroideries, this can still be seen in the more rural parts of the country.

The men, much like their ancestors wear still the Dishdasha, a cotton long floor length shirt along with the kumma and massar. Our tour guide Khalid explained to us the significance of various adornments and garments — how they were worn, who wore them and when.

There is a third room that has been converted into a sort of gallery with old photos, news paper clippings and artwork relating to Oman’s vibrant past. Visitors are encouraged to visit this room as it is not only a walk down memory lane, it gives one chance to glance, learn and appreciate what the people in the museum like many others are trying to do. Through these ‘live’ museums and displaying of traditional methods, not only does this interest the visitors but also helps the modern Omani people to reconnect with their roots. Khalid shared us, he said, “Many locals during the holidays, festivals and weekends bring their kids and families to Bait Al Safah. This is not just to spend time with them but also to teach the younger generations of what life was like for their ancestors. This initiative was done to keep these traditions alive in today’s technologically run modern society.”, 34

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he also adds, “We the people of Oman are very proud of our culture, heritage, and traditions and it is important to spread the information about these places and traditions.We enjoy sharing our food and culture with the people of the world and show to them our beautiful country and its people.”

The final room in the house is the Majlis or the living room. The Majlis is still widely visible through the country in modern and traditional homes, this is where guests were entertained and offered kahwa and dates and the same is down in Bait Al Safah. Free dates, tea, and coffee are provided for its guests to enjoy whilst reimagining themselves in an older time during Al Hamra’s glory years.

Bait Al Safah and the old village of Al Hamra is the perfect place for those who want to get the experience of a more traditional Oman.

Khalid whilst pouring kahwa, shared with us how even in this modern era of a much easier life, he said, “this museum and these houses still leave us feeling nostalgic. Although we now live in nicer houses with modern amenities, we see these architectural marvels and feel nostalgic about the houses built by our ancestors. It is important that we not only respect the things of our forefathers but also learn about their lives and share with others where we, the people of Oman come from.”

How to get there Getting to Al Hamra can be challenging but can online Maps will help a lot. It is is a 45-minute drive from Nizwa via Road 21.

Location Coordinates: 23º07’12.6”N 57º16’53.2”E 35

Land of Frankincense Every aspect of life was associated with frankincense and it still rules every Omani household, the fragrance of which is known in many parts of the world

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F

Kaushalendra singh

rankincense is closely associated with the history of Oman. So much so that the place was known as Land of Frankincense and there are plenty of evidences available to support this nomenclature.

Every aspect of life was associated with frankincense and it is not surprising that it still rules every Omani household, the fragrance of which is known in many parts of the world despite the fact that its commercial potential has not yet been fully tapped.

Frankincense is the gum extracted from the boswellia sacra (biological name) tree and known as luban locally.

It is being commercially transported to countries like Italy, Spain, USA and Britain. Besides the Gulf countries, frankincense is in good demand in

Holland and France.

The most precious commodity of ancient Arabia dates back to nearly 6,000 years. Its appeal was so strong that the Frankincense Trail in Oman’s Dhofar Governorate was purportedly visited by the notable explorers Marco Polo and Lawrence of Arabia.

The existing tree regeneration and the historical habitat of boswellia sacra were found to be from sea level to the top of the hills at an altitude of 1,800m.

The boswellia sacra tree morphology and physiology is designed by nature to tolerate drought. The tree stem is composed of pale brown bark with some outer flaking papery layers and a thick reddish brown inner resinproducing layer. The tree can survive for long periods without leaves, and photosynthesis happens through the

bark as a backup system in the absence of leaves.

Now there has been an attempt to do plan farming and a successful experiment has been conducted in Wadi Dawka, a very old and original site of frankincense that has been registered on the Unesco list of World Heritage Monuments.

There is an exclusive market for frankincense in old Hafa area, which is also known as Hafa Souq or Souq al Husn, due to its proximity to Al Husn Palace in Salalah.

The market has been a good platform for SMEs and women entrepreneurs. Of course, there are big shops who cater to the needs of all kind of tourists, business people and local visitors.

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MILESTONES 2017 Among other frankincense products, its oil has evoked good demand internally and externally.

Driven by the idea of keeping the ancient knowledge of frankincense, young researcher Dr Mohammed bin Mahad Ali al Mashani has been involved in this field for the last 17 years. Al Mashani got inclined towards frankincense at an early age of 18.

He has been progressing nicely in his research and has come out with not less than 15 products for which he has opened a shop and sells them to continue with his research and promote frankincense as a natural health, aromatic and beauty product. The products, according to him, “are in good demand particularly from those who have used them earlier”.

He is convinced about the health benefits of the aromatic resin but doing his research to prove his point. He has been extracting frankincense essential oil and making products like hydrosol, perfume, natural soaps, shampoo, black eyeliner, lotion and cream. All his products are hand-made and the basis for them is frankincense.

By putting up a shop of his own, Mohammed wants to convey the message among the people about the genuineness of frankincense and its commercial importance among the local people. “Frankincense holds huge commercial potential provided its commercialisation is kept sustainable and proper awareness is spread among the local people.” He also emphasised on maximum involvement of local people in this trade.

Like other researchers, he too emphasised on proper tapping of the trees to get the resin as there have been cases when people tap the frankincense trees wrongly which damages the trees.

Mohammed claims to have the best quality of frankincense at his shop in Salalah Gardens Mall.

He called for some kind of branding of Omani frankincense to save it from adulteration and maintaining purity. “There are some qualities that are used as chewing gum and they are far better than many chewing gums being sold in the market,” said Mohammed.

Boswellia Sacra, according to Mohammed, is so rich in property that many researches have been conducted on it and many more are in progress.

“We keep on sharing knowledge on luban among researchers. By the time we finish something, we learn many new facts about it. It is interesting to compile knowledge on frankincense,” he said.

One of the best methods being adopted by Mohammed to learn about frankincense is compiling statements of elderly people in the family, friends and relatives about it and the stories associated with aromatic resin. “It seems our forefathers were using luban for everything, be it for celebration or any issue related to health.”

“Today researches are on to establish the benefits of frankincense on a disease such as cancer. It is our responsibility to keep the originality of frankincense intact and retain the glory attached to it in ancient times,” he said.

It is interesting to know about frankincense, which happened to be the main trade of Oman along with agriculture in ancient times. The aroma of Omani frankincense crossed the boundaries of Oman during ancient times and attracted traders from many parts of the world.

Though the trade volume has come down substantially, the frankincense souq in Salalah’s Hafa area keeps the tradition alive with rows of big and small shops dealing in the gum of Boswellia Sacra.

The frankincense extracted from the Dhofar Governorate is considered to be the best with prices of the best quality frankincense ranging from RO 35 to RO 100 per kg.

According to Laila, who has a family shop in the souq for the past 22 years, “The market was not as organised as it is today. The place is familiar to me from my childhood and it reminds me of my days when I was a little girl coming here sometimes along with my mother and grandmother.”

Started initially only with frankincense, her shop today is a mixture of aroma items ranging from perfumes made of frankincense, sandalwood, bakhour and frankincense burner.

“The best quality of frankincense ranges from RO 35 to RO 100; there are varieties available for RO 15, 10, 5 and even 4 per kg,” says Laila when asked why some frankincense qualities were so costly.

“There are good qualities that can be used as medicines. They can be chewed as gum and in Omani society the gum is used to treat many diseases, from stomach ailments to ailments of the skin,” she said.

All the frankincense items in her shop are not from Oman. Many have come from Somalia and Yemen. “The Omani qualities, particularly from Salalah, are the best and are great in demand from visitors who come to

Salalah from the GCC countries.”

Khareef is the season when frankincense shop owners at Hafa do brisk business. “The reason being less supply of frankincense due to rains in mountains and big demand due to arrival of visitors from many countries,” says Laila.

Khareef is such a busy season for Laila that she does not get time to eat and sleep. Other family members also chip in. This is the time they make maximum money out of their business.

Her shop has good quality jafran and sandalwood perfumes as well as wood oil made only for women.

There are four main varieties of frankincense in Salalah. Houzry is found in Jabal Saham (Hasik) and sells at RO 25 per kg. Sizry, found in Hasik, sells at RO 2.5 per kg. Negdi is found in and around Thumrait and sells between RO 2.5 and RO 3. The fourth quality is Shabia, which is available for RO 3 per kg, and found in Mughsayl.

A popular incense ingredient, olibanum is a balsamic resin, also known as frankincense. The extract is produced by Boswellia trees. Used in homoeopathic medicine, olibanum is also an ingredient in pharmaceutical drugs and in several varieties of perfumes. The origin of olibanum lies in the Arabic word alban or ‘milk’.

In modern times, olibanum is burnt as incense during religious ceremonies for creating a fragrant atmosphere. Olibanum oil is also an important base ingredient in perfumes,

pharmaceuticals (anti-inflammation) and cosmetics.

Olibanum is very important for Dhofari society as it is the main source of income for many in the region.

Frankincense is an integral part of Omani heritage and culture.

Meanwhile, a report on frankincense has suggested a pilot olibanum farm in western Raysut or near Thumrait or Sadah-Hasik area so that treated water can be used to irrigate the plants.

The farm, according to the report, will serve as a gene bank for olibanum trees to be used as a collection spot for all regions of Dhofar. The idea of pilot olibanum farm is part of the many other recommendations suggested in the report.

The Environment Society of Oman’s report was prepared by Dr Mohsin Musalim al Amri with assistance from Badar Musthail al Shanfari. As per its recommendations, the farm would be a place of tourist attraction that shows sustainable ways of harvesting frankincense trees.

Other suggestions came in the report titled ‘Sustainable harvesting of frankincense trees in Oman’. It has shed light on the many aspects of boswellia sacra and has come out with vital recommendations to raise its productivity and commercial viability.

The recommendations range from tree harvesting norms to suggestions on pilot projects and management plan for scientific research and general awareness among people.

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The potters of

BAHLA Bahla holds a distinction as a world heritage site for its old fortresses from Unesco for its significance in the preservation of culture and heritage of Oman. Beyond this distinction, this dainty town located in Al Dakhiliya Governorate also holds pride as the hub of pottery in the country.

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Titash Chakraborthy

F

rom the outside, the building looked like any other establishments — painted white and standing out against a dusty environment.

It is awefully quite too. The sound of machines muted by the thick walls of the building.

Its reception area was also not made for comfort — it was a business centre, one with very important contribution to the preservation of Oman’s historic and vibrant past.

Inside the building, further down into the production area, men each have their own stations. They were huddled into their part of the pottery production.

It’s not the typical pottery space one would expect. Air-conditioned, well-lit and with lots of space to move around, it was created for mass production and was equipped with the best tools to serve the organisation’s purpose.

The people working inside also have

already perfected their part of the task.

It is a complex and tedious process that starts with breaking down the stone.

A machine does the job with usually two men feeding the grinder. The powdered stones enter another machine until it reaches the part where it’s mixed with water and eventually start to form clay.

It takes a few days to dry them out, ready for the moulding of the master potters.

---------------------The Sultanate of Oman boasts of a unique culture with rich traditions, and the art of pottery has been an intricate part of country’s identity for over 4,000 years.

Bahla, an old dainty town located in the Al Dakhiliyah Governorate in the north-east region of the Sultanate today holds pride as the hub of pottery in the country. Rightly so, Bahla has been established as a world heritage site by Unesco for its old fortresses and significance in the culture and heritage of Oman.

After the invention of the pottery 41

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Lifecycle of a pot Upper Left (UL): Stones are placed on machines and grounded to powder. They are processed on another machine where they are mixed with water. (ML) Clay tablets are formed from the mixture. (UR) The tablets are left for a few hours or days to remove excess water. Once the perfect condition of the clay is achieved it is forwarded to a master potter. (BL) The master potter then mould the clay into shape. (BR) Depending on the style and design, some pots are forwarded for colouring and incorporation of intricate designs.

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wheel, Oman experienced a milestone leap influencing years of progress and development and creating the stepping stones to the beautiful country we know today.

As the world progressed into today’s modernity, pottery has taken a back step and become a relic of the past.

There was a time where most families in the Bahla region were involved in the pottery making and trading but with progress and modernity came replacements for the clay pots and utensils.

Today, the pottery trade is dwindling with few establishments and families working hard against the odds to keep this important part of history alive.

Clay items were everyday household things and the art of pottery was an important industry in olden day Oman.

Pottery has now become a novelty item, used as decorative pieces in homes, restaurants, and gardens to recreate an Omani aesthetic or as gifts and mementos for tourists to take back from local markets and souqs.

The craftsmanship seen in Bahla is not only famous in the region and country but across the globe. It is often said, it isn’t just the clay of Bahla that is special but the potters themselves — they are known to be born with magic in their fingers, able to produce the most beautiful pots in numerous ways.

Omani pots can be seen everywhere throughout the gulf and its neighbours and across ancient civilisations that had their trade roots in and through the Sultanate.

Bahla as always, is the hub of pottery and home to hundreds of potters for generations along with being a leader in the cottage industries. As the knowledge of the famous clay pots of Bahla spread across the trade routes, demands increased and the industry boomed.

Backyard businesses increased production to soon become a thriving industry that supported the economy of this then budding nation.

The clay used to produce these pots come from the wadi floors from the surrounding regions and are rich in red clay giving it its distinct colour and special qualities.

Traditionally, once the clay was collected, it would be left in shallow troughs or pits with nets to separate

Pottery has now become a novelty item, used as decorative pieces in homes, restaurants, and gardens to recreate an Omani aesthetic or as gifts and mementos for tourists to take back from local markets and souqs. larger debris like leaves, twigs and stones from the valuable red clay.

Once the clay was separated and the excess water removed, it would be trampled upon by the craftsmen to make it malleable before it was used on a wheel to mould the pots and other utensils.

Although rare, it isn’t impossible to find men sitting at a spinning wheel, turning globs of mud into artsy yet useful commodities. A potter working at the wheel is a view one can never forget, to those who are lucky enough to have this opportunity can agree that watching a potter working his magic is no short of watching a painter finish a painting. One can spend hours, mesmerised by the soft strokes and gentle hand movements and seeing the emerging pots taking shape. It is an almost hypnotic experience.

Once completed, the pot is left to dry in the sun before it is put into a huge

kiln where it is heated to bake and then gently cooled to reveal the final result.

As the country and regions progressed, so did the styles and type of kilns used. Initially, Bahla was known for its dome-shaped ovens that could be anything from a small 1metre wide kiln to those multi-level structures that although traditional, for usually used for more commercial purposes.

The common artefacts that are still produced are urns, large bows, special halwa containers, incense burners and coffee pots. These can be found in abundance through out the country but mostly originate from the region of Bahla. Souqs, traditional shops, specialty shops, museums and private sellers are the easiest way to buy these products.

With the changing tides and increased interest in boosting local markets and SME’s, youth have taken an interest in going back to their traditional roots and bringing back the glory of the Bahla pots.

Supporting this is a small pottery works and training institution that was developed and is supported by the government of Oman. With the help of international experts and technologies, a movement has been started to reestablish Bahla as the pottery capital.

Although Bahla is famous for its magnificent fortresses and fables about genies and medieval alchemy, pottery is being reintroduced into the mix. In the local Bahla souq which sits under the shade of a huge tree, visible are the products made with the magical and exquisite handy works of some of Oman’s best craftsmen — the potters of Bahla.

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ECONOMY &

PROGRESS Photo by Sunil Rao The Snake Road connecting Baushar with Al Amerat with the Muscat skyline at night on the backdrop.

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Envisioning a global logistics hub ASYAD — formerly the Oman Global Logistics Group — was established with a mandate to spearhead the implementation of the National Logistics Strategy 2040 — a 25-year blueprint to position the Sultanate as a destination for logistics

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Conrad Prabhu

H

undreds of years after Omani seafarers charted historic courses to India, China and East Africa among other faraway lands in pursuit of international trade and commerce, ASYAD — the transport and logistics flagship of the Omani government — has stepped in to rekindle that rich legacy.

But where the nation’s ancient mariners once traversed the oceans to ply their goods in antiquity, ASYAD is looking to achieve pretty much the same in terms of trade, albeit with a key difference: it is seeking to leverage the strategic geographical location of the Sultanate to attract trade volumes to its shores for transshipment, value addition, processing, assembly, warehousing, redistribution and eventual export — thereby creating a new economic industry for Oman:

LOGISTICS. But if the accent was on maritime trade in the heyday of ASYAD’s forebears, the present-day

Of the 10 target areas, five of them — Mining, Fisheries, Chemicals, Food Processing and Agriculture — are essentially production sectors that if developed can generate sizeable volumes for export government-owned holding company has adopted a multimodal approach — encompassing maritime, air, road and future rail based transportation — to achieve its logistics related ambitions.

By consolidating all of these assets — including government interests in seaport, transport, shipping, ship repair, cargo terminaling, and rail infrastructure — under one umbrella, ASYAD seeks to harness the immense synergies created as a result to strongly position the Sultanate as a region hub for logistics.

Today, the umbrella body represents the government’s multibillion dollar investments in 15 different transport and logistics-related undertakings in the Sultanate. The list includes National Ferries Company, Oman National Transport Company (Mwasalat), Oman Shipping Company, Oman Ship Management Company, Oman Charter Company, Mina Sultan Qaboos, Port of Sohar, Port of Salalah, Port of Duqm, Hutchison Ports Sohar, Freezone Sohar, Salalah Freezone, Oman Logistics Company (Khazaen), Oman Rail, Oman Drydock Company, Oman Post Company, and the Sohar based International Maritime College Oman (IMCO).

ASYAD — formerly the Oman Global 47

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Logistics Group — was established with a mandate to spearhead the implementation of the National Logistics Strategy 2040 — a 25-year blueprint to position the Sultanate as a destination for logistics. The National Logistics Strategy 2040 has identified a number of objectives designed to boost the share of the logistics sectors in the GDP to reach RO 14 billion in 2040, alongside the creation of 300,000 jobs in the sector. It also seeks to position the Sultanate as one of the top 10 logisticscentric economies of the world by 2040.

Given its location overlooking the Indian Ocean and abutting major regional and international shipping lanes, the Sultanate enjoys many competitive advantages, notably its strategic location which qualifies it to become a distribution hub for the Indian Subcontinent and North African region.

ASYAD also hopes to reap major returns from the huge investments that the government has made over the years in the construction of modern roads, ports, airports, free zones and industrial estates. Incentives have also been provided to enhance logistics services and the nation’s ability to attract foreign investments.

Immense potential At the outset of its launch as the signature brand embodying the nation’s logistics aspirations, ASYAD has prioritised 10 different sectors that if suitably developed and leveraged, have the potential to make a significant contribution to the strategic goal of supporting the growth of a logisticscentric economy in the Sultanate.

Of the 10 target areas, five of them — Mining, Fisheries, Chemicals, Food Processing and Agriculture — are essentially production sectors that if developed can generate sizeable volumes for export. The remaining five thrust areas — Retail & FMCG, Automotive, E-commerce, Pharmaceuticals, and Oil & Gas — have the potential to be developed into hubs or distribution centres that in turn can fuel the growth of logistics activities in the Sultanate.

Also as part of the National Logistics Strategy, ASYAD is working to formulate 48

Oman is set to host the 2018 edition of the World Congress of the International Road Transport Union (IRU), which will take place next September.

The Sultanate was selected from a field of more than 100 nations to host the prestigious event — a testament to the IRU’s growing confidence in the logistics potential of Oman

a national markets development plan to help achieve the short, medium and long-terms ambitions and targets set out in the logistics roadmap. Notable are the ambitions to lift the logistics sector’s contribution to the GDP to RO 3 billion by 2020, RO 8 billion by 2030 and RO 14 billion by 2040. It also envisions the growth of air cargo to 0.35 million tonnes by 2020, rising to 0.75 million tonnes by 2030 and 1.5 million tonnes by 2040. Sea cargo, on the other hand,

is projected to surge to 58 million TEU by 2040, up from 27 million TEU in 2030, and 10 million TEU in 2020.

To help achieve these ambitious goals, ASYAD’s Markets Department has set out four key objectives: to provide market intelligence and trends analysis; carry out segmentation and targeting of promising sectors and geographies; develop a competitive logistics product offering; and ultimate design, develop and promote an

Omani Global Logistics Brand. These objectives will support the achievement of logistics sector goals in terms of GDP contribution, employment generation, trade value creation, and the position of Oman as a logistics hub.

ASYAD has also set itself a number of targets for implementation during the course of this year — some of which have already been achieved. The list includes the following objectives: That shippers submit declarations prior to vessel arrival; To fully operationalise the Risk Management Module of ROP Customs’ Bayan System; To introduce a One-Stop-Shop for Physical Inspections; To fully operationalise the TIR System with the Sultanate as a contracting party to the TIR Convention; To complete and operationalise the National Single Window system; To ensure that OGL-drafted Standard Operating Procedures are adopted

by Customs for Bonded Warehousing, Transit volumes, and Local Clearance; and to support the founding of a Logistics Supply Chain Association in Oman.

New partnerships ASYAD also aims to enhance Oman’s name on the international stage by taking the lead in promoting the Sultanate as a leading international hub for logistics services. To achieve this goal, the Company will develop partnerships and build links with major stakeholders on the international market. It will also develop the drivers for growth and seek membership of regional industrial organisations and global forums, as well as sign agreements for enhanced trade ties with various countries.

In May, the International Road Transport Union (IRU), the preeminent global industry association for road

transport, inked a landmark deal to support Oman in the implementation of the UN TIR Convention.

The IRU is a global grouping of national overland transport associations and industry bodies encompassing more than 100 countries. IRU members are primarily national associations for passenger or goods transport, but also include associations of truck, bus, coach and taxi operators, associations for a specific category of road transport, chambers of commerce and automobile clubs. Associate members may be national and international notfor-profit associations and companies.

Also as part of the deal, the IRU pledged support for the Sultanate in the development of training and professional certification for commercial road transport and the digitalisation of logistics systems. In effect, the pact envisions a major role 49

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Presently, the great majority of goods freighted anywhere in the world are subject to different modes of transportation as they make their way from the point of origin to end-users across the globe.

f o r t h e IRU in improving the Sultanate’s regulatory environment, adopting professional qualifications for drivers and logistics managers and embracing international customs transit standards.

Oman is set to host the 2018 edition of the World Congress of the International Road Transport Union (IRU), which will take place next September. The Sultanate was selected from a field of more than 100 nations to host the prestigious event — a testament to the IRU’s growing confidence in the logistics potential of Oman.

At the same time, new policies and law are being enacted to help create a regulatory environment that is conducive to the inflow of capital, new businesses and talent. The Ministry of Transport and Communications,

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for example, is drafting new regulations governing all modes of transportation in the Sultanate. The proposed Multimodal Transport Law aims to provide robust legal underpinnings for the growth of the domestic transportation and logistics sector, as well as give comfort to foreign investors and players that their investments and operations in the Sultanate are protected by a robust legislative framework.

Presently, the great majority of goods freighted anywhere in the world are subject to different modes of transportation as they make their way from the point of origin to end-users across the globe. Thus, while goods may be shipped in container by sea, they are transported onward by road or rail from the port of discharge to markets inland.

This ‘multimodal’ nature of transportation and logistics is not comprehensively covered by existing laws and regulations in the Sultanate — a shortcoming the new law aims to address.

Proper regulation of goods carriage and logistics processes across all available transport modes promises to give assurance to foreign companies about the safe movement of their merchandise across Oman’s borders, the official

said. Better control and management of multimodal transport will make Oman much more attractive to the rest of the world.

Talent development Human capital development is a key part of ASYAD’s overall strategy to create the underpinnings of a robust and successful logistics-centric economy in the Sultanate. Towards this end, the holding company has roped in the National Training Fund (NTF), which is the Sultanate’s workforce development flagship, to support the training of Omani cadres necessary to achieve the nation’s long-term logistics ambitions.

A cooperation agreement signed by the two organisations last September aims at sustaining human capital development through the establishment of a joint working group to formulate professional standards and curricula. The deal will help develop the skills and competencies of Omani cadres who would be required to fill the tens of thousands of jobs expected to become available when implementation of the ‘Sultanate of Oman Logistics Strategy 2040 (SOLS 2040)’ shifts into high gear in the coming years.

The SOLS 2040 blueprint developed by experts of ASYAD’s Oman Logistics Centre (OLC) envisions immense potential for the creation of jobs for nationals when the underpinnings of a logisticscentric economy are substantially in place. Logistics related jobs are projected to rise from around 30,000 in 2014 to 80,000 by 2020. The size of the workforce in logistics industries and activities is anticipated to further burgeon to around 200,000 by 2030, soaring to 300,000 by 2040.

The NTF-ASYAD cooperation pact is aimed at, among other goals, bridging the considerable gap that currently exists between educational skills required by the logistics industry and that which are available in the market. The Oman Logistics Centre has stressed the need for bespoke vocational training programmes delivered to international standards.

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SMEs are engines of growth Oman’s SMEs have played an important role in supporting the country’s 2020 vision. With increased support from the local government and the strong leadership of His Majesty, these small and medium enterprises are reaping the benefits whilst helping the country’s economy and running the engines of progress, innovation, and growth

Samuel Kutty

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mall and medium enterprises (SMEs) play a major and vital role in the success of every country. They form the fundamental part of the economic fabric and are the engines of growth, innovation and prosperity.

In Oman too, the government has recognised the contribution of the

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sector to economic growth and its potential to provide jobs to Omani youth.

His Majesty Sultan Qaboos, time and again, emphasised on the economic importance of SMEs in national development and issued several royal directives in this regard.

The initiatives include Al Raffd Fund, funding through Oman Development Bank as well as other financial institutions, instruction to provide a minimum lending of five per cent by the commercial banks and the creation of the Public Authority for

SMEs. Another area that the authorities have identified to supporting the sector is by providing them with a greater role in the large-scale infrastructure and industrial development programme currently being embarked upon.

One of the major supports that the authorities have identified as key to assisting SME growth is giving them a greater role in the largescale infrastructure and industrial development programme currently being embarked upon.

For this purpose, the Tender Board 53

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has called for at least 10 per cent of all work on major projects to be carried out by SMEs. There is also a proposal to develop a separate exchange for small and medium industries.

Sharakah, a Fund for Development of Youth Projects, was also established by a Royal Decree in 1998.

More than 90 per cent of all registered firms in the Sultanate fall into the SME category. Most of these small-scale businesses are rated as being micro-enterprises, with 78 per cent of companies in Oman employing five people or fewer, between them accounting for just 10 per cent of total employment nationwide.

SMEs indeed are the drivers of GDP accretion and employment 54

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More than 90 per cent of all registered firms in the Sultanate fall into the SME category. Most of these small-scale businesses are rated as being micro-enterprises, with 78 per cent of companies in Oman employing five people or fewer, between them accounting for just 10 per cent of total employment nationwide

generation. They also operate in some of the most important sectors of the economy.

According to Khalid Safi al Haraibi, Acting CEO of the Public Authority for the Development of SMEs (Riyada), the GDP from the sector has witnessed a steady growth.

“By the beginning of 2017, it has reached 23 per cent thanks to the significant changes taking place in the economy. It is estimated to cross 30 per cent in the next three years,” Al Haraibi told the Observer in an interview.

A great challenge for small businesses is accessing the finance they need to develop and grow.

According to Al Haraibi, from the beginning of this year more funds are

going to SMEs than in the previous years from traditional players like venture capital, he said.

“Riyada aims to achieve overall development of the SME sector to strengthen its role in providing more employment opportunities, reinforcing competition between established SMEs as well as assisting them in adding value to the economy and economic diversification,” he said.

Despite all-out efforts by the government, there has been a dramatic drop of 35.2 per cent in the number of SMEs at the end of June 2017.

According to figures from National Centre for Statistics and Information quoting Riyada, the number of SMEs

till the end of June stood at 27,923.

Referring to the drop, Al Haraibi said this resulted from a healthy correction thanks to the macroeconomic condition prevailing in the market.

“Normally economic activity in the first and second quarters of every year remains low and less contracting work goes to the SMEs, mainly the startups. But the activity picks up in the later quarters as because it corresponds to the budget,” he said.

Overall, the present economic activity augurs well for the SME sector, he stressed.

The Al Raffd Fund was set up in 2013 with a capital of RO 70 million for financing start-ups and overall development of SMEs.

The Fund is currently engaged in financing four programmes and more are scheduled to begin in areas such as tourism, industries and seasonal agriculture soon.

While the government has put in place a range of support mechanisms for SMEs, the private sector majors like Zubair Small Enterprises Centre, Bank Muscat, National Bank of Oman and Intilaaqah Oman also support small enterprises with several programmes and projects.

The National Business Centre (NBC) at Knowledge Oasis Muscat, which serves as an incubator for entrepreneurs, has become a premier platform for training, mentoring and supporting Omani entrepreneurs.

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Tale of a self-made entrepreneur

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he dream of starting a business and turning it into a millionrial juggernaut is growingly becoming an ambition for many young Omanis. To draw inspiration in this regard, there are a number of entrepreneurs who have built themselves into household names starting with small enterprises.

Afshin Mohammadi is one such example of an Omani businessman who has epitomised the self-made entrepreneur. Although he doesn’t have a rags-to-riches story to narrate so to say, he is operating a successful business that he started from scratch.

“At the outset, you don’t just have to be an expert to run a successful business.

Passion, motivation and a strong will

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are equally important factors,” says Afshin, owner of Al-Roofoof Hotel Supplies & Trading.

Al Roofoof is the exclusive distributor in Oman for many global brands in the

Al Mouj Muscat, the upscale waterfront residential and commercial development in Oman.

He named it so from the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, called Chado,

Afshin Mohammadi is one such example of an Omani businessman who has epitomised the selfmade entrepreneur.

food and beverage industry and its related business, including Illy coffee, Domori chocolates, Dammann Freres Teas, Tea Forte, Toschi Flavoured Syrups etc.

But what makes him more proud is his exclusive brand of coffee shop called Chado Tea Lounge, located at

which means ‘the Way of Tea’. This culture was started in the 16th century by tea master Sen no Rikyu, who was also a successful merchant.

When Afshin started his business in 2001, there was not much happening in Muscat’s coffee market scene.

“When I started working on the idea

of establishing a coffee business, there was very little precedence available both locally and online to help me get started. There were no professional training programmes. Add to that the fact I was commencing with a minimal capital investment,” he says.

First of all, there was no coffee culture in the Sultanate, except it being part of traditional Omani hospitality at homes.

“Still I started with the famous Illy brand of Italy with the anticipation that coffee will have premium positioning in Oman’s market. As I anticipated, today coffee business has become very competitive with the change in the lifestyle of people,” he reveals.

The establishment of Raffd Fund by the Oman government to extend financial support to start-ups helped

Afshin expand his business.

“It was with the backing of a loan from the Fund that I could diversify my business,” Afshin says.

Talking about the success of his business, he says, “It’s not an amazing idea that makes a business successful, it’s the execution. While we have a great product, having a marketing plan is just as important, if not more.”

Every statistic that comes from the coffee market shows it is growing every year. The market is full of competition.

We have to listen to our clientele.

We need to improve and get better every day. We have to adjust as per the changing needs and wants of the customers, he advises.

“While making a good cup of coffee with the b e s t

ingredients is the bedrock of the café business, professional and well-trained staff can turn a good business into a great one,” he says.

“First and foremost, you have to be really passionate about the quality of the beverages that you produce for your customers. We source the best and then serve the best,” he claims.

According to Afshin, there is a hidden secret to a successful business.

“If you ask me, it all boils down to hard work. With all odds seemingly stacked against you — busy and bustling work days, long working hours, and steep competition from other coffee shops, to name a few — might seem like a daunting task. Ultimately, your dedication in implementing what you want to do is what will reward you in your business.”

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structures &

Architecture Photo by Yeru Ebuen Oman, when it comes to architecture, truly has perfected mixing the old and the new. Shown here is a mosque found in Al Dakhiliyah Governorate.

MILESTONES 2017

Many new properties have come up in the city over the last 20 years including commercial and residential complexes. Although modern, these structures have not strayed away and maintained links to principles of traditional Omani architecture Vinod Nair

A

Blending past, present with future Photo by Sunil Rao

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city or a country is remembered more for its traditional architecture than for the milestonesetting modern buildings.

Every year, thousands of tourists flock to countries like Turkey, Egypt, India, China, Russia, France, Portugal and UK for a once-in- lifetime sneak preview of mansions built centuries ago.

Some buildings reflect the countries cherished history whilst others recall its riveting past. They all have the same story to tell, most importantly about the efforts made by the present generations to maintain their past for the future.

Oman Tourism, on its website, says the “evolution of architecture is a measure of a nation’s civilisation and Oman abounds with a number of cultural buildings that stand as a testament to this art”.

Its castles, forts and walls are a testament to an architectural style, namely the Jabreen Castle and Bahla Fort are both included in the World Heritage Sites list.

The website said the architectural styles vary with the change of scenery - the types built in Musandam are mountain houses that employ natural air currents to form a cooling system that beat the scorching heat of summer months.

Interestingly, properties that have come up in Muscat in the past 20 years,

including residential complexes, have not moved away from the traditional principles of architecture.

For example, the residential units at Al Mouj Muscat offer ultra-modern amenities like any high-end properties of our times, but the basic designs and lightings are still in line with the Omani traditional architecture and cultural heritage. These principles have been also followed in other high-

Some buildings reflect the countries cherished history whilst others recall its riveting past. They all have the same story to tell, most importantly about the efforts made by the present generations to maintain their past for the future

end integrated projects such as Barr al Jissah, Saraya Bandar (Muscat Bay), Jebel Shifah.

“Authorities in Oman must be appreciated for keeping the traditional and cultural ethos of the city. New buildings can come up in line with the requirements of the modern safety and convenience needs, but what needs to

be liked is the respect for the past,” said Richard Green, a business traveller who was in Oman for a conference.

He added, “We cannot preserve our past just by imposing rules or penalties.

People should be made aware of the glorious history through campaigns.

I think for a country like Oman with a large number of expatriate and a relatively young population, this can be challenging.”

Historically, Muscat has been a walled city known for the 16th-century Portuguese forts, mud houses. Bait al Zubair museum is an old-time aristocratic mansion that now houses Omani crafts.

The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is a modern-day marvel known for its teak doors, prayer halls, libraries, ceramics, chandeliers and its golden dome that stands tall facing the busy Sultan Qaboos High Street.

Nizwa is the past capital during the sixth and seventh century and is home to a reputed fort, famous for watch towers. Nizwa also hosts the Jabrin Castle. Dating back to 1670, it is famous for its structure, detailed lattice work, curved arches and detailed handchiselled doors.

The parliament or Majlis Shura building near the Al Bustan Palace Hotel, Supreme Court building in Azaiba and the National Museum Oman were all recently completed, still elegant based on Omani-style architecture.

Royal Opera House was dedicated to the nation only at the beginning of this century and has been hosting artists and audience from across the world.

Opera House too offers rich interiors 61

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Photo by Sunil Rao

- in many ways ‘an embodiment of such complexity and multiplicity of references witnessed in Omani architecture’.

Reasons could be reasonable for cities across the world to go vertical amid burgeoning population, scarcity of land and environmental concerns limiting the possibilities of land reclamation from sea.

As per regulations, it may be noted that the administration of building permits at the Muscat Municipality specialises in approval of building permits and ratification of buildings plans in Muscat Governorate.

Apart from looking into the technical aspects, the department specialises in ensuring safety of the building from the aesthetic aspects, “harmony with the elements of Islamic and Arab 62

Omani architecture and its compliance with the urban environment prevailing in the region and maintain the Omani identity and civilisation”.

“A few Indian cities still have the British or Mughal-era buildings constructed centuries ago and still preserved as heritage sites, but what is also to be noted is that new projects and their architecture are totally poles apart from the past,” said Rajkumar, an Indian national who is in Oman on a short trip.

He said, “Most of the new landmarks in Muscat like the Royal Opera House, Parliament building or even the Grand Mosque were completed in the last ten to 20 years, but they are still in line with the Omani style and uncompromising on modern facilities.”

Mohammed Haitham has

been travelling to different parts of the world and felt most of the Western countries, developed or underdeveloped, are proud of their past, even if it brings bad or horrible memories to them.

“But in Asia, things are different as people want to catch up with the developed world with glass and tall buildings. I see a deliberate attempt to forget the colonial past and just move into the future,” he said.

Earlier this year, The Telegraph listed Oman among the top 20 countries for 2017 and 18th in the order. It is the only country to be ranked from the Arab world.

The Telegraph said: “Embracing modernisation while preserving the past is no easy task, but it’s something that Oman, on the south-east corner of the Arabian Peninsula, is managing with aplomb.

The Sultanate remains a heady blend of ancient traditions, humble hospitality and spectacular scenery, with excellent infrastructure to boot.”

According to the safaritheglobe. com, Oman’s architecture is striking in appearance and quite unique, including the buildings being constructed today. Most of the country’s earliest still-standing architecture is in the form of forts, although clearly houses and mosques were built for hundreds of years.

Mosque architecture in Oman is similar to the rest of the Middle East as a whole, with one clear exception - many early mosques in Oman were built from clay bricks.

Also, minarets weren’t a common feature on mosques in Oman until the 1800s.

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Inside Oman Architectural gems found in the Sultanate shared on Social Media

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