Chow Down With John Batchelor at Fratelli’s Italian Steakhouse

from YES! Weekly - May 17, 2023

WEEK OF THE BLUES

BY JOHN BATCHELOR

Fratelli’s is part of the Crisp Hospitality Group, a Triad partnership that also includes Sammy G’s in High Point and Three Bulls American Steakhouse in Clemmons. Sammy Gianopoulos, one of the principals and Executive Chef at Fratelli’s, has quite a culinary history. He started out washing dishes, later moving into the kitchen, working for his father, Terry Gianopoulos, who was in the restaurant business for 50 years. A WinstonSalem native, Sammy graduated from Reynolds High School, attended Johnson and Wales Culinary School, then worked his way up to lead chef at Biltmore estate in Asheville. He created his ﬁrst restaurant, Gianno’s Pizza in 2000, followed by Aquaria Seafood Grill in 2004, both in High Point. The High Point Chamber of Commerce named him Businessman of the Year in 2007.

Fratelli’s occupies one of the Reynolda neighborhood’s classic white brick buildings, easily recognizable even from the most casual drive-by view, due to the larger-than-life cow that stands alongside the entryway. Zach Vlahos is the General Manager. Nate Dabe is Kitchen Manager.

The large interior exudes a masculine, clubby, steakhouse ambiance. Seating is well separated into multiple sections, creating a closer sense that, while not intimate, nevertheless allows conversation.

A large wine cabinet occupies center stage. It houses a collection that I really like. Most of the list is easily recognizable, all selections reasonably priced. I like to know in advance what I am getting. Other restaurants would do well by emulating this example.

Warm, crusty bread (no extra charge) accompanied by herbed olive oil arrives promptly, delivered by servers who team well with each other.

I have only had one starter. CrabStu ed Shrimp are large, split to allow insertion of crab dressing, placed over garlic scampi cream sauce. The result tastes of fresh, quality ingredients, in a tender host.

The starters list includes several other attractions, but my wife and I skipped them on subsequent occasions because we were just full. The entrée price includes a house salad, served from a shared bowl that you transfer into chilled metal bowls. Based on cut iceberg lettuce, augmented with candied pecans, dried craisins, diced Granny Smith apple, plus mozzarella and feta cheese crumbles, with a sweet creamy Italian dressing, it’s really tasty.

No reasonable person will ever leave this place still hungry. I will get some of the other starters on a future visit, as main courses, maybe with one of the made-to-order salads.

On these visits, we really enjoyed all the selections from the main courses section of the menu. One side vegetable is included.

Since at least part of Fratelli’s concept is steak house, we tried two beef entrées. The menu advises that meats are seared at high temperature — 1200 degrees — to create a crust. A Filet Mignon validated the claim, with a lot of flavor evident from the browned exterior. But the interior remained juicy and tender, cooked correctly to the requested temperature. Anna ordered this with Parmesan Fries. The menu says hand cut, and appearance, flavor, and texture support the claim. These actually taste like real potato, dusted with Parmesan cheese. Sometimes, the lowest-priced selection on a menu reveals a lot about the kitchen, and that turned out to be the case here with a Chop Steak. This is ground beef, formed into a ball, covered with soft-cooked onions and mushrooms, producing a deep flavor interplay. Positive revelations, therefore. My wife chose a loaded baked potato for her side. It’s huge, filled with sour cream, chives, and freshly cooked crisp bacon. Several other steak selections, on and o the menu, are available, some reaching into the upper echelons, pricewise. A bone-in Pork Chop also benefitted from that high-temperature sear. The crust gives way to a lean, moist interior in this otherwise simple preparation, precisely trimmed to leave only a thin strip of fat (essential) around the edges. I ordered this with Brussels sproutscooked with apples and bacon. Very good flavor, but they revealed the only misstep we encountered: most were barely warm, others still cold, none hot.

Seafoods did not disappoint. Salmon, with a crusty sear and tender, moist interior, earns praise for creativity, topped with sundried tomato pesto, presented over creamed spinach. Sundried tomatoes bear strong flavor that in less skilled hands could have overpowered the salmon’s own flavor, but this kitchen managed a good balance. A pasta cake on the bottom of this structure adds pleasant texture when you encounter it, in addition to soaking up the resident flavors in the dish.

I quite enjoyed an o -menu Blackened Mahi. It was just-right-tender, the spices assertive but not overpowering, allowing the taste of the fish itself to come through clearly. Lemon slices added color as well as taste enhancement. This was presented over new potatoes and broccoli florets. But it also generated recognition of a need for caution. Servers do not tell you prices of o -menu items unless you ask. And this turned out to be quite a bit more expensive than I would have anticipated. Not unreasonable, upon reflection, but most surprises on restaurant checks are not of the pleasant kind.

The other element of Fratelli’s concept is Italian inﬂuenced. The Lasagna here turned out to be one of the best renditions I have encountered. Ricotta cheese ﬂavor blends with a deep, rich tomato sauce, studded with crumbled meatballs and pieces of Italian sausage. The meats add another taste dimension. Thanks to unindicted co-conspirator Jerry for sharing his serving.

Pleasantly stu ed, neither my wife nor our companions were willing to order dessert, as enticing as they sounded from our server’s description.

Those experiences lie in my future.

As you might have been able to tell, I like Fratelli’s. Quite a lot, for numerous reasons, in fact. And don’t just take my word for it. My wife is already talking about what she’s going to get when we go back. !

JOHN BATCHELOR has been writing about eating and drinking since 1981. Over a thousand of his articles have been published. He is also author of two travel/cookbooks: Chefs of the Coast: Restaurants and Recipes from the North Carolina Coast, and Chefs of the Mountains: Restaurants and Recipes from Western North Carolina. Contact him at john.e.batchelor@gmail.com or see his blog, johnbatchelordiningandtravel.blogspot. com.